all pages august 2019 - sanjeev - aepcindia.com india sep19_0.pdf · apparel / chairman’s message...

APPAREL eXpOrT prOMOTION COUNCIl MAGAZINe | September 2019

100

EAI 02 ISSUE 01

New trends,brand awareness spur growth in india’s kidswear segment

LUXURY FASHION

brands focus on

personalized servicesas they

go digital

Asian brands gain popularity with emerging retail destinations

All_Pages_August_2019 - Sanjeev.indd 1 9/10/2019 3:31:16 PM

AppArel / Chairman’s message

I am happy to bring you the september edition of the apparel india magazine after a gap of few months. Thanks to all our readers who have patronised the magazine and have been

its regular readers. The last few months have been a mixed bag for

the industry. On one hand, export orders improved on account of the positive news on rOsCTL; on the other, uncertainty in the disbursements of these orders and on the continuation of meis severely impacted their positions. aePC has been continuously taking up this issue with hon’ble Pm, minister of Commerce & industry, minister of Textiles, members of Parliament, secretary (Commerce), secretary (T) and other relevant authorities, highlighting the need for continuation of meis until such time that the alternate WTO compliant scheme is devised and implemented. many of you had joined our petition drive for the same.

aePC had partnered with the international Labour Organization (iLO) to study the global good practices and identify some key practices that can be encouraged by indian apparel manufacturers to ensure growth in business in a good-sustainable-inclusive way. Based on extensive domestic and international studies on prevailing and successful practices at the workplaces, a one-of-its-kind good management Practices compendium has been developed with the following broad focus areas of Workplace Co-operation, Quality, Productivity, Clean Production, Workforce management, & Occupational safety and health (Osh). The project aims to benchmark apparel industry production, management practices and profitability to global standards. Based on the practices adopted, the participating units would save costs as indicated in the compendium. aePC launched compendium for good management Practices on august 30, 2019. We look forward to implementing some of the trainings based on the compendium in days to come.

recognising the opportunity that has come before us, in the wake of Us China Trade war, aePC has been working on an action plan for leveraging this opportunity. in this regard we had invited a high level delegation from Us , comprising sourcing heads of international brands, to the apparel house this month - to understand their expectations from the suppliers, in order to increase their sourcing from india. There is also a need to foster a favorable environment for joint ventures and collaboration. For discussing such issues that might help in augmenting FDi into india, a high powered committee has been set up. i invite your suggestions for the same.

We held awareness workshops in collaboration with eCgC on export documentation and credit risk management and with niTra on Best management Practices for productivity enhancement in the month of august. We have been scheduling monthly awareness workshops, on topical issues – you can check our website for the latest in this regard.

i thank CBiC for accepting aePC recommendation of extending manual and alternate mechanism to rectify the errors of invoice mismatch (sB005 error) for shipping Bill till upto 31.07.2019. i hope exporters will grab this opportunity and rectify their sB005 error, which had been a common error for many exporters. n

Dear FrienDs,

HKL Magu, Chairman, AEPC

APPAREL eXpOrT prOMOTION COUNCIl MAGAZINe | September 2019 / 1


Editor-in Chief & Publisher & CEO - Sanjay Chawla Director - Salil Chawla Managing Editor - Sujata Dutta Sachdeva VP-Corporate Communications Shraboni Mukherjee Assistant General Manager - Saqib Meer Editorial - Narayan Subramaniam Editorial Asst. - Ranjit Kaur Correspondent - Ajay Kumar Goswami, Prerna Sharma Graphic Designer - Sanjeev D. SonavaneProduction & Admn. - Dhansukh Rathod, Dinesh Poojary

Mumbai Offi ce: 38/314, Unnat Nagar 4, Off M. G. Road, MHADA Colony, Goregaon (W), Mumbai - 400 062. Ph: 022 2875 5181e-mail: [email protected] / [email protected]

Dehli Offi ce: Salil Chawla, Business & Mktg: New Delhi - 110017, Mobile: +9193503 18639/95601 79633 e-mail: [email protected]

Printing Press: VIBA Press Pvt. Ltd. C-66/3, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase-IINew Delhi-110020e-mail: [email protected]

CHAIRMAN AEPCMr. HKL Magu

CHAIRMAN EPMr. Sudhir Sekhri

ADVISOR AEPCMrs. Chandrima Chatterjee

PUBLISHERApparel Export Promotion Council

C O N T E N T S

04 | The broadcast RMG exports in India grow by

7.06%

05 | India’s Textile & Ready Made Garment (RMG) Update for Index for Industrial Production (IIP) for FY June, 2019-20

06 | aePc activities AEPC & FIEO organised Exporters’

Meet on trade facilitation and banking

08 | SLCP develops CAF to improve working conditions in global supply chains

09 | SLCP to eliminate need for multiple audits

10 | AEPC to go online with all custom related works

11 | aePc events AEPC organises seminar on

Export Documentation and Credit Risk Management

12| ecOnOMY• Worldeconomytowitnessa

modest 3.3% growth this year• USFIAlistsrisingcosts,

protectionist policies as top business challenges in 2019

13| • USFIAStudyadoptsacautiousoutlook for US fashion industry

• Worldcottonproductiontoincrease by 5 per cent

14| sTraTeGIc Smaller stores, new features,

brands adapt ways to deal with retail meltdown

16| MarKeTs• RMGcompaniessalesto

increase by 10.5%• Onlinechannelsboost

knitwear sales• USbrandslaunchadaptive

clothing

17| • ApparelimportsbyEUincreases by 13%

• AsiaPacificdenimmarkettoexpand rapidly by 2027

• Globalcottonconsumptiontoincrease by 1.7%

18 | Asian brands gain popularity with emerging retail destinations

20| brand - reTaIL• RalphLaurenCorpexpects

Q2 revenue to grow by 1%• Dieseltosetup35storesin3

years• VFCorpraisesgrowthoutlook

for FY 2020

2 / APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | September 2019

21| • BananaRepublic’snewrentalplatform to provide a new sales stream

• SteveMaddenacquiressneaker giant Greats

• JCPenneytosellusedclothing

22| cOver sTOrY New trends, brand awareness

spur growth in India’s kidswear segment

26 | neW OPOrTUnITIes Reduced outdoor activities push

up demand for performance apparels

28 | LUXUrY• Globalluxuryapparelmarket

grows by 6%• Globalfashionaccessories

market to grow by 6.5 %

29 | Trade TreaTIes • Usapparelcompanies

wanting to invest in India support an FTA

• ChineseexportsgarmentstoIndiaviaBangladesh

30 | InsIGhT Low duties, manufacturing

expertise, FFI compliance to boost synthetics growth in India

32 | Trends• Womenoptforrelaxeddenim

styles• GenZoptsforlightweight

cotton denim

33 | • USwomen’sdenimbrandsreadopt retro styles

• Streetwearwitnessesatripledigit growth in the US

34 | Good old jeans ready to make a comeback in new styles

36 | WGSNunveilsnewtrendsforSpring/Summer 2020

37 | aePc acTIvITIes Govt to focus on technical

textiles

38 | bUsIness• Asiaemergesasthemajor

apparel export destination for Bangladesh

• Chinaremainsthetopexporter of apparel products in 2018

• Chinatextileandgarmentexports decline by 2%

39 | • Indianapparelexportersexplore opportunities in Iran

• Indianartisansmark200products to be sold online

APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | September 2019

100

EAI 02 ISSUE 01

New trends,brand awareness spur growth in India’s kidswear segment

LUXURY FASHION

brands focus on

personalized servicesas they

go digital

Asian brands gain popularity with emerging retail destinations


• BangladeshRMGexportstoIndia increases by 79%

40 | Tech Trends From customised to made-to-

measure clothes, brands reinvent their strategy

42 | sOUrcInG• LeviStraussplanstomove

production out of China• Brandsgivesourcingbigger

attention• UStarifftreats,risinglaborcosts

force Puma to move out of China

43 | • USimportersseeksourcingalternatives in Africa

• SourcingcostofUSfashionbrands increases

• USfashionleadersadoptacautious business outlook

44 | LUXUrY Luxury fashion brands focus on

personalised services as they go digital

46 | fasT fashIOn Reworking business culture to

make fast-fashion sustainable

48 | sUsTaInabILITY• EllenMacArthurFoundation

releases new guidelines for denim manufacturing

• Wranglertosource100%sustainable cotton by 2025

• Textilewasteincreasesby811%

49 | • Zaratouse100percentsustainable fabrics by 2025

• Denimbrandsoptforsustainable production methods

• Inditextogofullyorganicby2025

50 | Holistic sustainability initiatives to save environment

52 | TransParencY Apparels brands more about

transparency now

54 | aePc evenTs• IntertextileShanghaitosetup

denim zone• IAF’sWorldFashionConvention

to attract global apparel industry leaders

55 | • ShanghaiTextofeatureAIevent

• InternationalSourcingExpotobe held in November 2019

56 | • AEPCemphasisesonthecontinuation of MEIS

• UgandadelegationvisitsApparel House

57 | MInIsTrY nOTIfIcaTIOns

58 | GsT UPdaTe60 | aePc evenT

caLendar CALENDAROFEVENTS-2019

aPPareL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | September 2019 / 3


AppArel / The BrOaDCasT

RMG exports in India grew by 7.06 per cent to US$ 1,364.67 million in July 2019 as against US $1,274.65 million in July 2018. In dollar terms,

the cumulative RMG exports, during the period

from April-July, 2019-20 grew by 4.03 per cent to

US$ 5,535.09 million.

In rupee terms, the exports in the month July 2019 were noted recorded be ` 9,390.06 crore as

against ` 8,756.04 crore recorded in July 2018.

The cumulative RMG exports in rupee terms,

during April-July, 2019-20, were reported to be `

38,398.47 crore.

RMG exports in India grow by

7.06%

Source: DGCI&S, Kolkata, 2019

India’s RMG Export to World

In InR crore In Us$ Million In InR crore In Us$ Million InR Us$

fY 2018-19 fY 2019-20 MoM Growth of2019-20 over 2018-19 (%)Month

April 8859.67 1349.81 9786.03 1409.53 10.46 4.42

May 9040.63 1338.57 10661.45 1528.02 17.93 14.15

June 9202.63 1357.46 8560.93 1232.87 -6.97 -9.18

July 8756.04 1274.65 9390.06 1364.67 7.24 7.06

Total 35858.97 5320.49 38398.47 5535.09 7.08 4.03

4 / APPAREL eXpOrT prOMOTION COUNCIl MAGAZINe | September 2019


AppArel / The BrOaDCasT

India’s Textile & Ready Made

Garment (RMG) Update for Index

for Industrial Production (IIP)

for FY June, 2019-20

Source: CSO, 2019

IndEX Of IndUsTRIAL PROdUcTIOn

Manufacture of MoM Growth Rate Manufacture of MoM Growth textiles (In %) wearing apparel Rate (In %)

sUMMARY

• TextilemanufacturinginIndiaincreasedby0.1percentto117.5onayearlybasisduringFYApr-June, 2019-20 as against FY Apr-June, 2018-19. However, this declined by 3.9 per cent in June 2019 to 112.5 as compared to June 2018

• Manufacturingofwearingapparelsincreasedby14.7percentto163.6duringFYApr-June2019-20 as compared to Apr-June 2018-19. It increased by 6.7 per cent to 161.7 in June 2019 as compared to June 2018.

April 116.2 115.9 -0.3 125.4 167.5 33.6

May 118.9 123.2 3.6 150.8 163.7 8.6

June 117.1 112.5 -3.9 151.6 161.7 6.7

Total 117.4 117.5 0.1 142.6 163.6 14.7

Month 2018-19 2019-20 2019-20/2018-19 2018-19 2019-20 2019-20/2018-19



AePC plans to take up the issue of general exports with the ministry of Commerce. The council believes that the elimination of

meis will make the survival of the industry tough as the duty free status accorded to competitor countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam, sri Lanka, Combodia by europe and Canada will make their goods cheaper by nearly 10 per cent.

To discuss these issues, aePC and FieO jointly organised the exporters’ meet on the

AppArel / aCTiViTies

“Current global Trade scenario, Banking issues and Doing Business with iran” in association with iDBi Bank on July 26, 2019 in Tirupur.

The meet was attended by dignitaries like Dr.a.sakthivel, Vice Chairman, aePC & mC member, Past President (FieO), israr ahmed, regional Chairman, FieO (sr), guest of honor, Dr. V.sraman, iTs, Jr Director of Foreign Trade, Coimbatore, Dr. m.Periyasamy, irs, Joint Commissioner, Coimbatore gsT Commissionerate and r srinivasa sadagopan, gm-mid Corporate group, iDBi Bank along with aePC eC members Elangovan, Ramu & Shanmugasundaram and officials of aePC, FieO & iDBi Bank.

highlighting the purpose of the meeting, israr ahmed, regional Chairman, FieO (sr), noted that indian exports declined by around 7.9 per cent in the last month with the imF world economy growth rate also reducing by 1 per cent due to the trade war between China & Us.

During the key note address, Dr.a.sakthivel appreciated the efforts undertaken by aePC & FieO on how to export to iran market. he informed that earlier aePC used to conduct Bsm in iran; however later this was stopped. now, aePC plans to restart in Iran. In the last fiscal, the council exported around $32 million worth of garments to iran. n

AEPC & FIEO organised Exporters’ Meet on trade facilitation and banking

dr. A. sakthivel, vice chairman, AEPc, and dignitaries from fIEO, dGfT, cbIc & IdbI bank during the Exporters’ Meet



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Launched on June 7, 2019 in gurugram, the social and Labor Convergence Programme (sLCP) has developed

a Converged assessment Framework (CaF) that seeks to support stakeholders’ efforts to improve working conditions in global supply chains. The CaF consists of a Data Collection Tool, Verification Protocol and Verifier Guidance. It intends to combat audit

fatigue and free up resources for improvement. This is achieved by replacing the need for audits by

delivering one verified set of social and labor data that can be used by standards and brands to decide on certification, compliance and more. To ensure quality implementation of the framework and reliable data for the industry, the system has been developed to serve functions like data collection at a facility level, verification of collected data and hosting and sharing of verified data to end users. n


SLCP develops CAF to improve working conditions in global supply chains

shri hKL Magu, chairman, AEPc lightening the lamp at social and Labor convergence Programme (sLcP) launch

Participants at the launch of sLcP



APPAREL EXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | September 2019 / 9

APPAREL / activities

Henceforth, a single verified assessment by the social and Labor Convergence

Program (SLCP) will eliminate the need for multiple social audits.

Launched during a workshop held in association with AEPC, the SLCP was launched by Dr A Sakthivel, Vice-Chairman, on June 3, 2019 in Tirupur. He opined that the SLCP will provide alternate measures for exporters who currently face a lot of problems due to the multiple certifications and audits available in the industry.

Dr Sakthivel further revealed that a lot of brands, buyers and stakeholders have signed up for this programme across the globe. International Trade Centre (ITC) is also supporting the event and part and partial of SLCP. Once they enrol in SLCP, International buyers can avail of the information to compare facilities and decide on which ones they would like to work with.

Introducing the process followed by the program, Sharon Hesp, Sr. Manager, SLCP revealed that the verified assessment

fulfills the data needs from all brands and standards. The process begins with a self-assessment from a facility which is further verified by a Verifier Body, after which the data can be shared with brands, standards and others that can come to their own conclusion based on that data. He stated that SLCP does not include certification or a Corrective Action Plan and focuses on

eliminating the need for several audits for data collection, not on judgement of that data.

Madison Wilcox from ITC spoke on the partnership between ITC and SLCP. He revealed that ITC, being the joint trade body for development agency of the United Nations and the World Trade Organization, focuses on supporting enterprises in developing countries to compete in the international markets. Moreover, it is committed to sustainable trade practices and supports the SLCP process. SLCP presents to opportunity to the trade body to converge many duplicative social and labour audits into one assessment process that not only saves money for facilities but also works towards improved working conditions.

So far 200 brands, manufacturers, standard holders and other stakeholders have signed up for this program. All of these are committed to adopting and implementing the SLCP assessment and verification process in their supply chains. n

SLCP to eliminate need for multiple audits

(L-R) Dr. A Sakthivel, Vice Chairman, AEPC, Mr. Dhanagopalan Varadharaj, Operation Manager, Intertek, Mr. Madison Wilcox from ITC, Ms. Sharon Hesp, Sr. Manager, SLCP and Mr. R Ramu, EC Member, AEPC



At the awareness workshop on implementation of e-sanchit Portal under single window organised by aePC, Dr a shaktivel, Vice-

Chairman revealed that henceforth all customs related i.e., import and export works will be connected through online and the exporters will able to meet the requirement of new system. This will also reduce the workload of the exporters who can avail of this benefit from anywhere from india.

aePC had organised the workshop on april 2, 2019 at iKF Complex, Tirupur to facilitate exporters to register on the portal and make new changes in the issuance of


import certificate from this fiscal. Around 250 exporters had attended this workshop.

The workshop was inaugurated by Dr.a.sakthivel who hailed the uploading of import certificate directly on the customs portal as it will fasten their work and avoid unnecessary time delay.

Customs officials from Chennai and Tirupur also attended the workshop who explained the significance on registering in the e-sanchit portal and clearing the doubts of exporters about the registration procedures and uploading Import certificates etc.

abinandan, general manager (iT) explained the online procedures of ePC/iC etc., in detail and also gave a presentation on e-sanchit. abdul nassar, suptd. of Customs, Chennai revealed that in future all import procedures will be done through this portal only and advised members to register in the portal for their benefit. n

AEPC to go online with all custom related works

dr A shaktivel, vice-chairman, AEPc, addresses the awareness workshop


AEPC organised a seminar on Export Documentation & Credit Risk Management for apparel exporters in collaboration with

AppArel / EvEnts

ECGC on August 01, 2019 in Gurgaon.the seminar included a session on export documentation

for exporters, awareness on ECGC scheme for credit risk management and presentation on best practices by nItRA. n

AEPC organises seminar on Export Documentation and Credit

Risk Management

Participants during the seminar



to a year earlier. A large numbers of customers are abandoning diesel due to fears over the amount of pollution it causes.

The damage is been felt particularly keenly in Germany, where growth is expected to be just 0.5 per cent this year. n

AppArel / ECONOMY

World economy to witness a modest 3.3% growth this year

The National Institute of economic and Social research has noted that the world economy is likely to grow by just 3.3 per

cent this year as the global markets have become vulnerable to shocks in confidence or sentiment this year.

The main reason for this is the trade battle between the US and China. The US has imposed tariffs on Chinese goods to which China retaliated by targeting US exports. Besides reducing trade between the two countries, this has damaged the confidence of companies worldwide and made them more wary. It has also led to a surge in the oil prices.

The increase in oil prices has further hit the world economy as firms and consumers have to pay more for the fuel and therefore have less cash to spend elsewhere. The european car market has stumbled, too, with sales slumping by 7.9 per cent in June compared

USFIA lists rising costs, protectionist policies as top business challenges in 2019

tariffs on apparel and home textiles and another $3 billion on imported footwear. However, their impact on US reshoring has been negligible. The trade war has increased the production costs of textiles and apparel ‘Made in the USA,’ and to cover these costs these brands will have to increase their prices. n

A report from the US Fashion Industry Association(USFIA) lists, rising production and sourcing costs and protectionist trade

policies as the fashion companies’ top business challenges in 2019. According to the survey, the number of companies holding a positive five-year outlook has dropped from 84 per cent in 2018 to 64 per cent in 2019.

The report also notes that around 83 per cent of the respondents plan to reduce their sourcing from China. Only 6.7 per cent of respondents plan to “reduce sourcing significantly” however, demonstrating the continued business value of maintaining a presence in China. Half of the respondents said their Chinese vendors lowered prices in an attempt to keep from losing customers to Vietnam, currently the alternative manufacturing country of choice.

According to the report, during 2018, American fashion brands paid more than $12 billion in


Shortstories - Sanjeev.indd 1 9/10/2019 3:34:50 PM

As per the sixth annual Fashion Industry Benchmarking Study by the United States Fashion Industry Association’s (USFIA),

sourcing executives are now more cautious and less optimistic about their five-year outlook for the US fashion industry. A year ago, around 84 per cent of the survey respondents were optimistic about their outlook. This year that number has dropped to 64 per cent. And one-quarter of the respondents were reported to have taken a ‘neutral’ stance.

Conducted in conjunction with Dr Sheng lu, Associate professor in the University of Delaware Department of Fashion & Apparel Studies, the survey asked respondents about the business outlook, sourcing practices, utilisation of Free Trade Agreements and preference programmes, and views on trade policy. It surveyed executives from 39 leading fashion brands, retailers, importers and wholesalers including some of the largest brands and retailers in the country.

The survey also noted that the biggest challenge faced by the fashion industry faced today is the impact of increasing production and sourcing costs. n

AppArel / ECONOMY

USFIA Study adopts a cautious outlook for US fashion industry

World cotton production to increase by 5 per centaccount for 22 per cent and 17 per cent of the global production respectively. Brazil is expected to contribute around 10 per cent to global production and Pakistan 6 per cent. n

The world cotton production is expected to increase by 5 per cent in the next year. The world cotton mill will resume its growth after a 1.3 per cent decline last year. The global consumption of cotton is

projected to grow by 2.6 per cent above last year. Mill use is projected to increase in each of the leading raw cotton spinners, with China accounting for nearly one-third of the world total.

Global cotton production continues to be concentrated in a few countries. The top five cotton-producing countries are forecast to account for more than 78 per cent of total production. India is forecast to be the leading producer, contributing to 23 per cent of global production. The country is projected to produce 29 million bales of cotton, 9 per cent above last year.

China and the United States are projected to



Manhattan’s madison avenue and Chicago’s Magnificent mile have always been home to top large format stores of

well-known brands but now skyrocketing rents and a shift to online shopping is compelling many to shut stores in large

AppArel / sTraTegiC

numbers. Reputed brands like Gap, Tommy Hilfiger, Lord & Taylor and Polo ralph Lauren have closed stores over the past one year. Casual wear brand abercrombie closed three of its stores in Japan, milan and manhattan respectively.

however, some other retailers are refurbishing their stores with new features instead of completely shutting them down. For instance, sportswear brand nike recently opened a new

Smaller stores, new features, brands adapt ways to deal

with retail meltdown



shop on Fifth avenue which does not have any cash registers. For buying an item displayed on a mannequin of the store, one has to scan the Qr code. The store then delivers the selected clothing to a fitting room or a designated pickup spot. Levi Strauss & Co.’s new flagship in Manhattan’s Time Square features larger dressing rooms with call buttons and tailors who can add trims and patches to customers’ jeans.

Tiffany & Co. is also renovating its store with an investment of $250 million while Nordstrom is slated to open its first New York flagship on Columbus Circle with the retailers’ latest customer-centric strategies.

Sky rocketing rentS, online retail take Sheen off StoreS

The concept of a flagship store took hold in the last 20 years, when retailers like Gap to H&M opened multiple flagship stores in various locations. These retailers did not shy away from paying exorbitant sums to showcase their merchandise in these luxury stores. however, in the last few years, rents have swelled so much that retailers are no longer in a position to shell out these prices, especially as more shoppers are opting for online shopping and physical stores are losing traffic.

Costar group, a real estate research firm, which surveyed retail leasing at luxury corridors in seven cities noted the vacancy rates in these cities had shot up to 7 per cent in 2018 from 3 per cent in 2017.

however, last year, total retail square footage lost in these areas exceeded 353,000, surpassing the loss of 214,000 sq ft seen in 2009. This resulted in rents on both the madison and Fifth avenue declining to a large extent. However, according to CBRE figures, things haven’t yet gone too far as commercial rents in 45 out of the 60 cities including new York, Los angeles, and miami, are higher than in 2009 when the economy was in a recession a growing number of retailers are also resizing their stores to make them smaller. hollister, for instance, is embracing shrunken stores that offer online services and serve both local and tourists.

Tommy Hilfiger, which also closed its other US flagships on the swank Collins avenue in miami, will be testing smaller shops with online interaction in the Us that could be more like pop-ups. n

AppArel / sTraTegiC



an increase in rebate of State and Central taxes and levies by almost 200 bps in March, addition of merchant exporters in the interest equalisation scheme for pre- and post-shipment export credit and a 200 bps increase in the rebate offered to micro, small and medium enterprises under IES. n

American brands are now making clothes for children with disabilities. These clothing are endowed with features such as sensory-friendly and wheelchair-friendly options. The

product development teams take great care in thoughtfully designing features for ease and functionality.

Asos has launched a rainbow tie-dyed waterproof jumpsuit engineered for those who use a wheelchair for mobility. The jumpsuit was designed with input from Chloe Ball-Hopkins, a Paralympian. Target has introduced such apparel to its assortment for toddlers as well as children with disabilities. Zappos has launched a similar line. Kohl’s will debut clothing for disabled children in its three biggest children’s brands.

As adaptive clothing can be very expensive, Brand Target keeps prices down by leveraging fabric that it has in production as well as making large quantities of clothing. Target also debuted Halloween costumes such as a princess costume that has a wheelchair cover that has a carriage-like appearance. The retailer took in insights from shoppers as well as organisations such as the National Federation of the Blind and Pageant of Hope, which has beauty pageants for children who have disabilities, when it launched its adaptive line. n

APPArEl / MARKETS

RMG companies sales to increase by 10.5%

US brands launch adaptive clothing

Revenues of readymade garment companies are expected to increase by 10.5 per cent this year owing to an

increase in reach of both organised retail and brands in tier-II and -III cities and rising growth of value apparel retail segment.

Garment exports in the first six months of this year increased by over 10 per cent. These exports are likely to benefit from rupee depreciation, partial restoration of export incentives and revival of demand in the UAE, the third-largest exports destination after the US and the European Union.

Exports to UAE, which account for 12 per cent of total Indian garment exports, are slated to recover after a significant drop in last two years. Export incentives restored include

Online channels boost knitwear sales

Countries like Russia, China, India, Brazil, and South Africa are witnessing a surge in demand for knitwear

through their online retail channels. North America and Europe have the highest share in the global knitwear market owing to the presence of several prominent market players.

Moreover, customers in these regions have a higher ability to buy premium knitwear products. There is a surging demand for textile products in countries such as India, China, Taiwan, and Indonesia. Market players are outsourcing their production operations from Asia Pacific, which in turn is catalysing the region’s market growth. n

16 / APPAREL EXPOrT PrOMOTION COUNCIl MAGAZINE | September 2019


million (up 11.78 per cent on M-o-M basis). Cumulatively, during the 5-month period, EU imported 1898.98 million kg (up 0.59 per cent) of apparels worth € 34.85 billion, marking 8.56 per cent growth on the yearly note.

Though the exports of China, India and Vietnam to the EU declined in quantity during the month, their value increased due to the currency fluctuation and high cost of manufacturing. The exports of China declined by 7.26 per cent in volumes, while their value increased by 3.44 per cent. Similarly the volume of exports by Vietnam tumbled by 13.39 per cent but their value increased by 14.65 per cent. On the other hand, India’s export value increased by 3.81 per cent while volumes declined by 0.81 per cent. n

The denim market in Asia Pacific is projected to expand at a rapid CAGr from 2019 to 2027. This can be attributed to an expanding base of working-class population, rising

disposable income of people, availability of cost-friendly labor resources, and abundance of raw materials in the region.

Casual fashion is driving demand for denim products across the globe. The casual apparel market can be segregated into apparel, handbags, footwear, and others such as caps and wallets. The segment can be further sub-divided into top wear (shirts and T-shirts, jackets and coats, and kurtas), bottom wear (jeans, jeggings, skirts,

trousers, and others such as shots and track pants), and one piece (dresses, jumpsuits, and dungarees).

The global denim market can be segregated into mass market and premium market. In terms of end-user, the denim market can be divided into men, women, and children. In terms of distribution channel, the denim market can be segmented into offline distribution channel and online distribution channel. Online distribution channels include e-retailer websites and company websites. Offline distribution channels include retail stores, specialty stores, supermarkets, and direct selling. n

APPArEl / MARKETS

Apparel imports by EU increases by 13%

Asia Pacific denim market to expand rapidly by 2027

Apparel imports by the European Union increased by 13 per cent to 371.79 million kg in May from 329 million kg imported in April this year.

This rise in quantities along with higher unit prices further boosted the value-wise import which stood at € 6,721.86

Global cotton consumption to increase by 1.7%

The Global cotton consumption is projected to increase by 1.7 per cent in the coming season. However, if production grows

at the expected 6 per cent, consumption will exceed production by about 300,000 tonne. As a result, global stocks will swell to 18 million tonne. These factors, combined with tepid expectations for global economic expansion, have dimmed hopes for next season’s cotton demand.

At 5.9 million tonne, China will remain the world’s largest cotton producer in 2019-20, topping India’s projected 5.75 million tonne. Production in West Africa will hit an all-time high of 1.3 million tons.

Global cotton production continues to be concentrated in a few countries. The top five cotton-producing countries are forecast to account for more than 78 per cent of total production. World cotton mill use is forecast to resume its growth after a 1.3 per cent decline last year. n

APPAREL EXPOrT PrOMOTION COUNCIl MAGAZINE | September 2019 / 17


Hong Kong, has always been known as the shopping mecca of the world with top global brands retailing in the city. The

best, the latest and greatest of european and american fashion were all available to discerning shoppers. From Prada, to Chanel, Kate, spade, gap, h&m, Christian Dior, giorgio armani, gucci and Zara. now, however, trends are changing. european and north american brands are scaling back

AppArel / marKeTs

expansion plans and exercising more fiscal restrain. Taking advantage of this, many Asian brands are filling high streets with their products.

Muji, uniqlo, the early MoverSTwo of the earliest entrants into the market were muji and

Uniqlo, Japanese home ware and casual fashion brand whose presence spans right from the modern shibuya towers to the 18th century heritage buildings in Barcelona.

Of these, Muji is opening a new store in Pacific Place while discount retailer Don Quijot plans to open an outlet in

Asian brands gain popularity with emerging

retail destinations



hong Kong. This outlet will be a part of the brand’s regional expansion plan that also includes singapore, Thailand, Taiwan, Korea and the Us. Korean cosmetics brands such as innisfree, etude house and 3Ce are also opening new shops in several international locations alongwith gentle monster and Line Friends

Chinese casual apparel brand meters/bonwe, tech brand DJi and restaurant chains haidilao recently opened outlets in Kuala Lumpur and hong Kong. Taiwanese restaurant Din Tai Fung forayed into Japan, the UK, the Us, Thailand, australia and other markets. singaporean shoe brand Charles & Keithalso opened an outlet in Jakarta, shanghai and Taipei. The brand already operates more than 300 stores in indonesia, the Philippines, the Uae, india, south africa. michelin-rated diner Putien has launched in Jakarta, shanghai and Taipei.

Shifting deMandS facilitateS MoveMentThe reason for this sudden influx of Asian brands into the

worldwide markets are many. One of them is shifting consumer demand who constantly seek novelty in their products. also, it is easier for these brands to open stores in asian countries where they already have either a physical or an online presence. as asian products are known for their pocket friendly rates than their western equivalents it fits the shifting consumer demands perfectly.

Factors such as proximity and logistics are also boosting

demand for asian products with three of the world’s busiest ports — hong Kong, singapore and shanghai — on the doorstep making regional expansion a logical choice for these brands. Though there are likely to be many challenges on the way, Asia definitely seems to be next destination for many european brands as of now. n

AppArel / marKeTsThe reason for this sudden influx of Asian brands into the worldwide markets are many. One of them is shifting consumer demand who constantly seek novelty in their products. Also, it is easier for these brands to open stores in Asian countries where they already have either a physical or an online presence. As Asian products are known for their pocket friendly rates than their western equivalents it fits the shifting consumer demands perfectly.



about 4 per cent after rising about 6 per cent in trading before the bell.

Adopting a cautious approach towards the current retail environment, Ralph Lauren Corp, recently launched a limited edition of its apparels. The company has also partnered with professional golfer Justin Thomas to reinvigorate the sales of its core products like its polo shirts. n

VF Corp is raising its growth outlook for fiscal 2020, including additional investments aimed at accelerating growth and value creation in fiscal year 2020 and beyond. The

company now expects its fiscal 2020 adjusted revenue from continuing operations to grow by 6 per cent approximately.

VF Corp’s first quarter revenues in FY 19 rose by 6 per cent. Excluding acquisitions and divestitures, its adjusted revenue increased by 9 per cent.

The company’s revenue from the active segment increased by 8 per cent including a 20 per cent increase in its revenue of Vans’ brand. Its outdoor segment revenue increased by 7 per cent including a 9 per cent increase in the revenue of The North Face brand and a two-percentage point revenue growth contribution from acquisitions.

The company’s international revenues increased by 2 per cent during the first quarter of FY19. Excluding acquisitions and divestitures, and on an adjusted basis, these revenues increased by 4 per cent. The company’s direct-to-consumer revenue increased 14 per cent while digital revenue increased 24 per cent. n

AppAREL / BRAND - RETAIL

Ralph Lauren Corp expects Q2 revenue to grow by 1%

VF Corp raises growth outlook for FY 2020

Ralph Lauren Corp expects its net revenue for the second quarter to grow by 1 per cent on a constant currency basis.

The brand also expects a stronger dollar to pressure its revenue growth by about 90 to 100 basis points.

The company’s net income rose to $117.1 million or $1.47 per share, in the first quarter that ended on June 29, 2019 as against $109 million, or $1.31 per share, recorded a year earlier. Excluding one-time items, the company earned $1.77 per share, while its net revenue rose to $1.43 billion.

According to IBES data from Refinitiv, analysts were expecting a profit of $1.66 per share and revenue of $1.42 billion. However, shares of the New York-based company declined by

Diesel to set up 35 stores in 3 years

Diesel plans to set up 35 stores in the United States in the next three years. Of these, 20 stores will be set up by

2019-end. The brand also plans to restructure its multi brand partners besides strengthening its digital presence.

The Italian denim label is currently revising the looks and operations of its stores. Its revamped stores will have ultra-dynamic and adaptable interiors. Their back-end operations have also been redesigned, with stock levels

based on omni-channel requirements. The main features of these stores include their flexibility and an ability to modify the way products are displayed in-store, depending on demand, trends and other signals. n

20 / APPAREL EXpORT pROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | September 2019


platform CaaStle.In addition to its new rental service, Banana

Republic will also offer online purchases and pick up in-store services. n

Steve Madden has bought the sneaker giant Greats- an outstanding brand that offers stylish, classic designs that appeal to today’s more casual consumers.

Established in 1990, US-brand Steve Madden offers fashion footwear and accessories for women, men and children. It also offers purses, sunglasses and more. These include daring silhouettes in high heels and purses to trend setting styles in men’s shoes. The brand is inspired by the streets. The pavements are its runway. Steve Madden gets inspired by new trends, rock and roll vibes and a large dose of urban touches. The brand is all about being unique and confident and embraces individuality with daring styles, jaw dropping heels, but always that sassy, sexy touch. Steve Madden has revolutionized the shoe industry, merging years of experience with unique and creative designs.

Greats is a footwear brand specialising in premium sneakers and well-known for its timeless yet aspirational and versatile styles. It has differentiated itself in the sneaker market with

stylish, classic, quality designs suitable for office weekdays to adventuresome weekends. Greats is a direct-to-consumer footwear company. This luxury shoe brand manufactures its sneakers, boots and pool slides at the same factories as designer brands, yet for about a third of the price tag. n

AppAREL / BRAND - RETAIL

Banana Republic’s new rental platform to provide a new sales stream

Steve Madden acquires sneaker giant Greats

Banana Republic’s new rental platform Style passport will provide the label with a new sales stream. The platform will drive the incremental revenue of the brand and help it to

connect with younger shoppers who appreciate great style and want an affordable, sustainable way to try new fashion. With this new service, the brand will gather valuable insights from a highly interactive customer base that can be used to design future product and experiences.

Subscribers to Style passport will pay a flat monthly fee of $85 and have the option to buy any of the items. The service includes three garments, free priority shipping and laundering services, and unlimited exchanges and returns. Like many apparel retailers that offer such services — including Macy’s-owned Bloomingdale’s, which this week announced similar plans — Banana Republic has partnered with rental technology

JC Penney to sell used clothing

As a part of its efforts to rebuild the waning brand into a profitable business, JC Penney will foray into the second-hand clothing business in partnership with online consignment store ThredUp Inc. The brand will sell used clothing from thirty of its stores that stock brands from Gap to Gucci. The selection will rotate weekly in order to surprise frequent shoppers.

This isn’t ThredUp’s first foray into brick-and-mortar retail. Macy’s recently announced a similar partnership with the company. The partnership will bolster ThredUp’s visibility.

The retailer reported a net loss of $48 million for the second quarter, and nearly 9.2 per cent decrease in sales compared to the same quarter a year ago. It sells name-brand clothing for up to 90 per cent off retail prices and has resold nearly 100 million pre-owned garments. n

APPAREL EXpORT pROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINE | September 2019 / 21


The indian kidswear market has witnessed several seismic changes in the last few years – both product and consumer wise. Parents are now exhibiting

considerable brand awareness and inclination towards high quality apparels for kids. This has provided immense opportunities for retailers at all levels and geographical regions to expand their market. as alok Dubey,

AppArel / COVer sTOrY

New trends,Emerging new concepts like social wardrobing alongwith growing brand

awareness is fuelling the demand for kidswear in India. brands are leveraging this

market potential with their innovating offerings

• A new concept of social wardrobing is emerging amongst Indian parents

• Indian kidswear market is slightly skewed towards boys wear

• Private and international brands have started special children’s wear stores in India

• Many apparel exporters have now launched own kidswear brands

• Branded kidswear gaining ground

brand awareness spur growth in india’s kidswear segment




CeO-Lifestyle Division-arvind Fashion explains, earlier kids used to wear a single set of clothes through the day at home but now they change four times a day.

There is a new concept of social wardrobe emerging amongst parents who wish to dress their kids in different attires for every occasion. Where earlier a single dress would be worn across many occasions, parents now want their kids to wear different dress for every birthday party they attend. They also desire to showcase their children attractively on social platforms like instagram and kids’ urge to sport the most popular cartoon or cinema character at any point and this has propelled demand for children’s clothing over the past few years.

almost all leading domestic retailers and international brands are offering children’s wear today. Private labels and some international brands like Us Polo, gap, Benetton, adidas, Pepe Jeans have even launched special children’s wear store format. manufacturers, who previously focused solely on

exports, are reorienting themselves to meet the growing demand within the country. many have launched own brands and independent retail operations.

higher deMand for boySwear; infant wear eMergeS aS new category

The kidswear market is segmented into boys’ and girls’ wear, with the market being slightly skewed towards boys wear with 53 per cent boy’s population in the age group 0 to 14. Boys’ wear market is diversified with various categories like T-shirts, shirts, denims, bottom wear, ethnic wear, winter wear and uniforms etc. For obvious reasons uniforms, T-shirts, shirts and bottom wear are the dominating categories, together contributing around 80 percent of the total boys wear market.

indian girls’ wear market mainly comprises



bottom wear, ethnic wear, T-shirts, shirts, denims, dresses, winter wear and uniforms, etc. Uniforms and ethnic wear are the two largest categories within this segment contributing around 53 percent of the girls’ wear market. around 60 percent of india’s population is rural, thus dominance of ethnic wear in rural india contributes to its major share in the girls wear segment.

Changing lifestyles and young parents’ propensity to splurge on children has fuelled growth of a new category within kidswear – infant wear. sharad Venkta, mD & CeO, Toonz retail points out his brand treats kidswear in two age groups — newborn to 3 years and 3 years to 12 years. infant wear, the newborn to 3 year old segment includes a wide range of baby basics like jabla and pyjamas, rompers, dresses, sets, innerwear, bath-towels, blanket, comforters, along with accessories like bibs, socks, gloves, caps, napkins, etc.

awareneSS leadS to evolved preferenceS

more aware of their needs, today’s young generation demands more than just functional

outfits clothes handed down to them by elder siblings. There is a growing awareness amongst these consumers about the material being used in their clothes. They prefer to buy clothes made of materials that are soft, long-lasting and easy to wash and maintain. This has increased their inclination towards fabrics such as cotton based denims, georgette, rayon and crapes.

These consumers also prefer to buy organic and eco-friendly apparels. They perceive buying organic as a reflection of their status and personality, which has led to an increased demand in recent years. however, organic fabrics are yet to enter the mainstream market as they are heavily priced and sparsely available. a fair section of experts, including sally Wells, believes that the trend will catch up soon as sustainable business strategy can be implemented in kidswear in the same way as adult clothing.

preference for branded clotheS growS

earlier, children’s garments were usually purchased from small stores and street shops. however, with social status and changing purchasing behaviour, the preference amongst parents is for branded kids’ clothing. megha Uppal, Creative Director, Bambiola, notes there is a growing trend and brand awareness stemming from international travels and the growth of social media has led to increased consciousness and more

There is a growing awareness amongst young consumers about the material being used in their clothes. They prefer to buy clothes made of materials that are soft, long-lasting and easy to wash and maintain. This has increased their inclination towards fabrics such as cotton based denims, georgette, rayon and crapes.




awareness of global fashion trends, making parents more inclined to buy branded clothing for their little one. The top selling brands in Tier ii and iii cities include a comprehensive mix of homegrown and international brands such as gaP and marks & spencer.

recently kids and baby brand masala Baby entered the indian market by going live on Firstcry. The brand aims to be an omni-channel brand and a one-stop shop for children’s apparel, accessories, etc. it plans to create a community of parents who appreciate and support good value-based designs, storytelling and customer experience.

character-baSed and licenSed apparelS eMerge aS new trendS

The evolution of kids as consumers has changed the way brands have given way for newer trends like character-based apparels. globally, The Walt Disney Company is the largest character licensor in the world with $45 billion in character merchandising retail sales in 2013. so much so that there used to be a time, when licensing in kids’ apparels was synonymous with only few global characters like Donald Duck, Garfield, Mickey mouse etc.They have been a pioneer in india too, in character licensing offers products across varied categories which include toys, fashion, stationery, home solutions, publishing, food, health and beauty and consumer electronics. Their kidswear segment cuts across apparel, footwear (shoes, clogs, flip-flops) and accessories (jewellery, socks, watches).

Overall, this is the most exciting phase of growth for kidswear in india. With the purchasing power of indian customers expanding and a high-level of exposure due to the expanding social media network, consumers from lesser-known towns are making more purchases and kids-fashion is emerging as a new trend. n

Almost all leading Indian retailers and international brands are offering children’s wear today. Private labels and some international brands like US Polo, Gap, Benetton, Adidas, Pepe Jeans have even started their special children’s wear store format.




This year’s Outdoor retailer (Or) summer market revealed, as americans are spending lesser time communing with nature,

AppArel / neW OPPOrTUniTies

demand for lifestyle outdoor apparels is increasing. The number of americans engaging in nature-based activities such as fishing, camping, etc, is continuously declining since the ’80s. a study done in 2017 by DJ Case and associates had indicated

Reduced outdoor activities push up demand for

performance apparels



over half of American adults spend five hours or less in nature each week. Their habit of bingeing on Netflix, scrolling on their phones and playing video games is diminishing their connection to nature which the industry needs to address on priority.

elaborating on this, Julia Day, executive Director, Business Development, sports, nPD group says Us consumers have changed their modes of recreation. They have moved away from weeklong treks towards afternoon hikes and music festivals. Brands and retailers are changing their retail strategies to align with this change.

as per the Department of Commerce’s Bureau of economic analysis report published earlier this year, the outdoor recreation industry contributed $412 billion to the Us economy. multi-use apparel and accessories not linked to a specific activity, like backpacks and pepper spray, accounted for 12.2 percent, or $89.3 billion, of real gross output in 2016. Out of the total, around 77 per cent consumers wear athletic apparel for many day-to-day activities, 62 per cent of them wear them for running while 57 per cent wear them for doing yard work outside.

perforMance apparelS gain popularity a survey by Cotton incorporated Lifestyle monitor

indicates, consumers prefer clothes with performance features such as water-repellant technologies, moisture management and 45 percent are willing to purchase cotton activewear that wicks moisture and dries faster. The company’s booth at the Outdoor summer market displayed two dual technology options for sustainable fibers. The first TransDRY® and Tough Cotton™ technologies that promote a double boost of moisture-wicking and increased durability. The second combined Storm Cotton™ and Tough Cotton™ technologies for a durable fabric that provides a water-repellant finish with superior abrasion resistance — all while maintaining the natural comfort and breathability of cotton.

Synthetic Microfiber fleece, an alternative to outdoor fabric

Cotton incorporated has also developed a viable alternative to a perennial outdoor fabric: synthetic microfiber fleece. Cotton incorporated created cotton and cotton/wool blend fabrics that mimic microfiber but naturally break down in soil and wastewater environments. This was in response to the growing issue of microplastic pollution that stems from microfiber. Currently, 27 percent of Us consumers are aware of microplastic pollution, a 59 percent increase since last year. additionally, 60 percent of consumers say microplastic pollution will affect their purchases.

as per Cotton inc’s activewear study, walking is the most common form of exercise for americans. This is followed by cardio training such as a treadmill or elliptical machine, weight training, running, swimming, hiking, yoga and aerobics. The research indicates that though consumers engage in outdoor activities like camping, hunting, skiing or snowboarding, boating or sailing, and rowing or crew, the largest group of them opted for moderate exercise three days a week. This drives up sales of outdoor apparels. n

AppArel / neW OPPOrTUniTies



AppArel / luxury

The global luxury apparel market is currently growing by 6.75 per cent with designers experimenting with women’s fashion in

materials, designs, and pallet. The female segment dominates not only the global fashion market but also the luxury apparel market. Women in entertainment, modeling, and sports prefer premium fabric clothing made of satin, lace, fur, and polyester that provides them comfort.

Cotton fabric is one of the main drivers of the global luxury apparel market, especially pure cotton, due to its utilisation of twill and plain weave. Users all over the world are demanding cotton dresses, shirts, and tops due to their low maintenance, durability, and cooling capability. leather is the second highest growing material in the luxury apparels market.

North America has a significant market share in luxury apparel, followed by europe.

The growing attraction of a luxury lifestyle, high purchasing power, and the influence of celebrity endorsement are driving the market in North America. The Asia-pacific region is also estimated to witness significant growth. However, value-added taxes imposed on luxury apparel and the high dominance of key players are restraining the market growth in developing economies. n

Global luxury apparel market grows by 6%

Global fashion accessories market to grow by 6.5 %

Growing preference for convenience, along with the rising popularity of online retail stores, is driving the demand for fashion accessories

across the globe. The global fashion accessories market is projected to grow at 6.5 per cent during the forecast period 2018 to 2023. A growing demand for apparel and eyewear products along with growing influence of promotional strategies by e-commerce players especially during festival season has been driving this growth over the last few years.

There is an increasing demand of different fashion accessories such as eyewear, footwear, handbags etc. owing to the rising consumer preference towards high quality and branded fashion accessories across the globe.

Major players in fashion accessories market have been acquiring emerging players to expand their consumer base. For example, in 2011, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton acquired Heng Long, a Singapore-based crocodile tanning company. Two years later, in 2013, Chanel bought a lamb hide tannery, France-based tannery Bodin-Joyeux, which had long been responsible for providing the iconic design house with a portion of its leather fashion products. n



AppArel / TRADE TREATIES

American clothing companies are scouting for greater investment opportunities in India. They are eager for a free trade agreement between the US and India. Fifteen

American companies have forwarded a proposal for improving the ease of doing business, providing higher skills to workers and drawing up a sustainable growth plan for the sector. The delegation comprised representatives from American textile

majors such as ralph lauren, pVH (which owns brands like Calvin Klein, Timmy Hilfiger, Van Heusen and Arrow) and Carter’s. However as of now the two countries have not even been able to work out a limited trade agreement involving a few products.

Following the US-China trade war, manufacturing is moving away from China. More and more American companies are looking at moving their investments from China. On paper, India has significant strength and could be the natural successor to China. There is a window of opportunity for India to attract investments in manufacturing. In doing this, India faces a lot of competition from countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam and Indonesia. In the last four years, investments worth $30 billion in textiles have moved out of China because of various factors, including rising input costs, but very little has come to India. n

US apparel companies wanting to invest in India support an FTA

Chinese exports garments to India via Bangladeshdomestic market without any duty. The cost difference works out to be ten per cent or 15 per cent. Even the transportation cost from Bangladesh is negligible compared to transporting from, say, West Bengal. n

China is exporting its garments such as trousers, shorts, shirts and cotton t-shirts to India via Bangladesh. This high volume of imports from Bangladesh is one of the main factors that has

stagnated the textile business in India. Bangladesh holds the second largest share in readymade garments in the world, after China.

Textile companies from China provide fibers and fabrics to units in Bangladesh and get them exported as finished goods to India. Bangladesh can export over 60 products to India duty-free, including readymade garments. The value of garment imports from Bangladesh into India has risen 480 per cent in the last five years. China is seen as taking undue advantage of this trade leniency to Bangladesh.

India imposes GST on textile goods sold in the domestic market. But the same products from Bangladesh reach the



Indian synthetics have failed to make a mark in the global market mainly on account of low investments in the sector, low wages to workers employed

in factories producing synthetics, and low demand for synthetics in the international market which results in low exports. even textile units in india run for only six months and produce only cotton. For the remaining

AppArel / insighT

part of the year, they are either shut down or run at a low capacity. This dismal performance of synthetics makes the indian apparel industry less competitive than its global counterpart.

high production coStS, abSence of local raw MaterialS Make SyntheticS expenSive

making synthetic clothes is more expensive than making cotton wear. Workers engaged in making suits earn more money

Low duties, manufacturing expertise, FFI compliance to

boost synthetics growth in India



than workers making a blouse. Therefore, the lackluster growth of synthetics also affects the workers’ wages.

india produces only 90 per cent of synthetics raw materials that are consumed locally. Local traders are compelled to import the remaining raw materials with high customs and anti-dumping duties on them. This impacts the domestic synthetics ecosystem.

india SufferS froM lack of expertiSe and technology

most weaving and processing units in india lack the expertise, scale and technology to produce synthetics. increasing power cost and reduced capacity usage doubles the cost of weaving in india, making it as expensive as in the eU or the Us. The processing units too often engage in batch processing which results in varying shrinkage, feel and shades. most indian processors also struggle to meet the zero-liquid discharge (ZLD) norms set by madras high court in 2011.

global fast-fashion leaders like Walmart, Zara, h&m, gap, and online-only retailers like amazon, Zalando can conjure new fashion trends and convert designs into affordable clothing within a few weeks. indian exporters are however ill-prepared to meet such demands of the Fast Fashion industry (FFi) leaders. These companies therefore, place orders with only those firms that deliver fast and are compliant with labor and other rules. in order to unshackle the sector and set it on a high growth plan, textile leaders need to adopt a three-fold strategy.

driving the growth of SyntheticS in india

some of the strategies that can push the growth of synthetic sector in india include:• Lowering duty on synthetics raw materials: This will reduce

their prices by 30 per cent to 50 per cent, encouraging the apparel industry to invest more in synthetics.

• set up 10 big units: indian manufacturers should strengthen the weaving and processing segments by setting up at least 10 big scale weaving and processing units annually.

• making factories FFi complaint: These manufacturers should make their factories FFi complaint. There are around 1,200 compliant factories in india that supply cotton products to FFi and other large buyers. many of these can invest in synthetics and export new products to the same set of buyers.

• Initiatives like these will definitely make India a prominent player in apparel industry and ensure bright outlook for its future. n

AppArel / insighT



AppArel / TRENDS

Women opt for relaxed denim styles

A recent study by fashion website lyst has revealed that women are opting for loosing fitting and relaxed denims over skinny denims. Mom jeans are becoming popular with

200,000 fashionistas opting for these types of jeans in a month. Demand for wide-legged jeans has also increased by 68 per cent while that for pastel coloured jeans has also increased by 103 per cent.

According to lyst white jeans are also on many womens’ wishlist, with searches up 42 per cent since the beginning of March. In the last week of May, white jeans sales came close to surpassing sales of blue jeans for the first time. However, 7 out of 10 shoppers search for blue jeans, making this style of denim the most sought after in the world.

The low rise cut that was beloved of Britney Spears and Girls Aloud in the noughties is also making a comeback with an increase in searches for ‘low cut’ and ‘hipster’ jeans in the last 6 months. n

Gen Z opts for lightweight cotton denim

Most of these consumers prefer their denim jeans to be made of 100 per cent cotton or cotton blends. Vintage vibes delivered in lighter weights is just what these youngsters prefer. Gen Z consumers are those born since 1996. Denim brands in the US are figuring out how to appeal to Gen Z. These are consumers born since 1996. They prefer wearing shapeless t-shirts, sweatshirts, dresses and other low-key staples like denims as these are effortless and without pretense. n

After years of wearing athleisure’s joggers and yoga pants, 94 per cent of Gen Z consumers are opting for lightweight jeans

that weigh less than 12 ounces per square yard. These consumers place a higher value on the fit, comfort and quality of their denim rather than its price.



AppArel / TRENDS

Women’s denim brands in the US are readopting the retro styles in terms in dyes, color and sustainability.

premium denim brand 7 For All Mankind has included ’90s-inspired low rise boot cut style as well the brand’s signature squiggle back pocket stitching in its new collection. It has trimmed its ecru jeans that are trimmed with contrast braiding and a dramatic pleated flare. Other innovations by the brand include tie-dye jeans with a crinkled paper texture, the 70/30, 70 per cent indigo and 30 per cent bleached, and a fresh crop of pink, yellow and mineral green denim.

Brand Mavi also captures the spirit of the ’90s in its women’s collection. The brand has launched a figure-flattering high rise, carrot-shape jean with front yoke details and a bleached-out wash.

Meanwhile Brand Ética has launched a line of sustainable fashion denim. Its tie-dye garments include some colored with botanical dyes derived from chrysanthemums, coffee plant roots and cypress bark. The dye technique is used on jeans with deconstructed side seaming, boxy camp shirts with vintage snap buttons and tees with kimono-style sleeves. n

US women’s denim brands readopt retro styles

Streetwear witnesses a triple digit growth in the US

Street wear in the United States is currently witnessing a triple-digit year-over-year growth. This is

attributed to the increasing trend of gender neutrality and statement pieces most commonly worn by women and younger shoppers.

The items that are witnessing the most demand include bucket hats, whose demand has increased by 365 per cent increase; sneakers, which have increased in popularity by 213 per cent; and cargo pants, searches for which are up 111 per cent. Yeezy and Prada are the top brands for sneakers, with Yeezy seeing a 662 per cent increase in search, and Prada 437 per cent.

As luxury brands are embracing collaborations and new creative heads to broaden their appeal, the number of streetwear shoppers purchasing luxury fashion has also increased by 56 per cent from last year. n



Denim is set to get a boost as demand for athleisure seems to have peaked. now, companies are looking for newer options

and resurrection of the good old jeans is most likely.

levi’S ipo, a turnaround for deniM

For generations, no other clothing item represented the Us better than jeans. however, the introduction of athleisure

AppArel / TrenDs

by Lululemon in 2007 turned the tide against denim as comfortable clothing gained popularity. millennials, who became a bigger consumer force, emulated younger icons like Taylor swift and Kim Kardashian by adopting the new athleisure look. During this period, sale of jeans in the Us declined by 11 per cent while overall apparel sales rose 10 per cent.

however, now with the return of Levi strauss to the public market, the tide seems to be turning in favour of denim again. Levi’s iPO launched in march 2019 was priced above expectations amid heavy demand. even today, the brand’s market value is high and remains unlike other tech iPOs.

Good old jeans ready to make a comeback in new styles



eStabliShed, popular brandS predicted to grow

euromonitor projects Us jeans revenue will grow by 5 per cent to $17.5 billion by 2023, with global market growing by 11 per cent to $111.6 billion. While there is a huge scope for the growth of athleisure, momentum may be shifting towards denim in the fashion industry. Denim brands Lee and Wrangler jeans are likely to make a comeback after their spinoff last month from VF Corp into the newly listed Kontoor Brands . The spinoff gives Kontoor a leadership team that’s quicker to adapt to trends and more likely to experiment.

experts say there are clear signs of a renewed demand for denim. however, consumers are not willing to wear the traditionally uncomfortable or restricting pair of jeans. They are adopting new dressing styles like pairing their denim with blazers. The euromonitor also predicts the Us jeans revenue will grow by 5 per cent to $17.5 billion by 2023. Chip Bergh, CeO, Levi strauss, terms the rise of athleisure in the fashion industry as being “throwdown moment,” which inspired brands to make more comfortable jeans styles.

new fabricS, StyleS to drive up deMand

Their efforts are bearing fruit as after years of stagnation, denim brands are offering innovative fabrics that appeal more to shoppers used to the coziness of leggings. For instance, american eagle is introducing more comfortable denim known as the american eagle ne(X)t level jeans, which provides a 360-degree stretch that lifts, shapes, supports and moves with you in every direction.

Besides natural, synthetic fibers like spandex adding to the comfort of the jeans making them more flexible, comfortable and durable american eagle’s online store even lets shoppers search for jeans by the level of stretch. Levi strauss has attracted more women by investing in stretch fabrics as well.

Ultimately, will established denim brands like Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger survive the athleisure storm or will the skinny jeans go completely out of favor, remains to be seen. n

AppArel / TrenDs



AePC recently organised a seminar on the Fashion Forecast spring/summer 2020 and autumn /Winter 2020 – 21 in Tirupur in

association with Wgsn, a renowned fashion consultant from UK.

Kim mannino, head – Wgsn, gave a presentation on trends, colors, etc. for the spring/summer 2020 & autumn/Winter 2020-21. she explained about color forecast, fabrics design and apparel designs especially in hosiery and also about color evaluations on spring/summer 2020. she briefed about three themes/stories like code create, empower up and designing emotion along with some sub stories. she also explained about some fabrics and materials like bio tie dye effect, cellular mesh, holographic ombre, creative craft etc. which will be the new trends of spring/

summer, 2020.also, she elaborated on the development of designs for men,

women and kids separately and the present garment trends. she corroborated her statements with examples like draped wrap dresses, cut out dresses, tie-up sweaters for women and tie dye contrast trimmed top, chest panel top for men, vintage sweaters, sheer maxi skirt, pleated trousers for kids. she also highlighted on the process of color evaluation in europe and south africa. n

AppArel / TrenDs

WGSN unveils new trends for Spring/Summer 2020

Kim Mannino, head, WGsn, adresses the audience during the seminar



AePC in association with india Knit Fair association ( iKFa) had organised a round table meet on may 15, 2019 at india Knit Fair Complex, Tirupur simultaneously with the inauguration of 46th india

international Knit Fair (iiKF). Jayant was the chief guest of the meet while Dr. a.sakthivel, Chairman - iKFa & Vice Chairman- aePC had presided over it.

at a round table meet organised by the aePC, Kumar Jayant, ias, Principal secretary – handlooms, handicrafts, Textiles and Khadi Department, govt. of Tamil nadu, revealed the government’s plans to open technical textile parks either

in Coimbatore, Tirupur or erode besides extending all the incentives/subsidies for this development. The government plans to set up CeTPs with a ZLD facility in textile clusters both in the form of setting up of Greenfield textile processing parks with CETP and also CeTPs alone by interlinking existing dyeing units to arrest pollution and to ensure environmental protection.

The Tamil nadu government also announced the Textile integrated Policy of gOTn. The policy emphasises on • setting up of technical textiles parks• To extend power tariff subsidy to apparel

sector too.• To encourage opening stitching units in

small villages to create more employment and curtail transportation costs etc.

• speedy disbursement of TUF subsidy and inclusion of few more machinery under the scheme.

• To address some cumbersome procedures like classification machines under TUF scheme, guidelines for siT inspection procedures etc. n


Govt to focus on technical textiles

(L to R) shri. Ahill Rathinasamy, President, KnITcMA, dr. A. sakthivel, chairman, IKfA & vice chairman, AEPc, shri. Kumar Jayanth, IAs, Principal secretary, handlooms, handicrafts, Textiles and Khadi department, shri. Eswaran, President, sIhMA shri. Raja shanmugam, President, TEA shri. srikanth, President, TEKPA.



Since 2011 Bangladesh has been enjoying duty-free benefits in India, which has prompted international retailers that have a presence in India to source directly from Bangladesh for their stores.

Garment exports to China have also increased by 29.33 per cent year on year. China, the largest garment supplier worldwide, has been turning into a major export destination for Bangladesh as it looks to shift to production of more sophisticated and heavy items. Furthermore, Bangladesh exporters enjoy duty-free access for 4,721 products including garments. n

China’s textile and garment exports fell by 2.37 per cent during the January to June 2019 period. Though the country’s textile exports increased by 0.66 per cent, its

garment exports fell by 4.93 per cent. The exports of yarns, fabric and related products registered a 0.7 per cent year on year growth while those of garment and accessories declined by 4.9 per cent year on year.

In 2019, China’s textile exports declined by 3.24 per cent year on year. Its garment exports also declined by 2.73 per cent. Since May 10, the United States has officially imposed additional tariffs on Chinese products, including textile yarns, fabrics, knitting, industrial finished products and some home textiles. This has brought some pressure on China’s exports to the United States and both countries have agreed to restart economic and trade consultations on the basis of equality and mutual respect. They have also agreed that the US will not add new tariffs on Chinese exports. Garments and most home textiles exports to the US will not be affected by the increase of tariffs, which will help stabilise the confidence of US buyers in continually purchasing from China and release positive signals. n

AppArel / BUSINESS

Asia emerges as the major apparel export destination for Bangladesh

China textile and garment exports decline by 2%

Asian countries like India, China and Japan have emerged as the major apparel export destinations for

Bangladesh. The country’s garment exports to Japan have increased by 28.90 per cent year on year. The reasons for the continuous rise in garment exports are its China plus One strategy adopted in 2008 and its zero-duty benefit to Bangladesh as a least developed country. The China plus one policy promotes shifting of production from China to other nations such as Bangladesh. Currently, nearly 80 per cent of the demand for apparel by the Japanese is met by Chinese manufacturers.

Similarly, garment exports to India have increased by 79.09 per cent year on year.

China remains the top exporter of apparel products in 2018

According to the World Trade Statistical Review 2019 released by the World Trade Organisation, China remains the

top exporter of apparel products with $158 billion worth of exports in 2018.

Vietnam and Bangladesh jointly became the second largest apparel exporters in the

world in terms of export value. Both the countries exported apparels worth $32 billion during the year. Bangladesh’s share declined by 0.1 percentage points to 6.4 per cent in 2018; on the other hand, Vietnam’s

share increased by narrowed the gap with its competitor with its exports increasing by 0.3 per cent to 6.2 per cent in 2018. India’s market share declined to 3.3 per cent during the year, while Turkey’s share declined to 3.1 per cent. n



India’s apparel exports fell by 1.2 per cent in fiscal year ’19 from fiscal ’18, which in turn was 4 per cent lower than the previous year. The share of apparel exports in the country’s total textile exports fell from 51 per cent in fiscal ’17 to 45 per cent in fiscal ’19. n

Indian artisans have drawn out a list of 200 products that will be sold on e-commerce platforms. Of these, some handicrafts and handloom products, such as Madhubani

paintings from Bihar, tribal paintings from Jharkhand, terracotta items from rajasthan and tussar silk wear from Bhagalpur, made by rural artisans, mainly women entrepreneurs, are already being sold online. The initiative is now being expanded to products such as folders, pen holders and gift items. Coming on to the e-commerce platform is

expected to help artisans get larger volumes and better prices for their products even after parting with at least 40 per cent of the revenue to these sites as seller charges.

A dedicated value chain development center, with about five regional offices, will be set up to provide complete value chain solutions to rural artisans. This will provide artisans technical assistance as well as help in designing and packaging of products to enhance their global appeal. producer companies will also be set up in select clusters.

At present, rural artisans sell their products through central and state exhibitions or directly through traders, besides catering to local demand restricted to their own districts. n

AppArel / BUSINESS

Indian apparel exporters explore opportunities in Iran

Indian artisans mark 200 products to be sold online

Indian apparel exporters are exploring opportunities in Iran. They see Iran as a good market for knitwear exports, especially polyester garments. India is one of four countries allowed to

trade with Iran. Meanwhile Indian exporters have expressed their concern

over the plan to withdraw the Merchandise exports from India Scheme. This is an incentive scheme to promote exports, and provides duty credit scrip to compensate the duty paid by the exporters, but has been challenged by countries like the US at the World Trade Organization. exporters hope an alternative scheme is devised. The country faces competition from Bangladesh and Sri lanka which have competitive manufacturing costs and enjoy duty free access to major markets like the eU. So some garment units have set up units in ethiopia due to zero duty access for ethiopian exports in the US and the eU and due to incentives being offered for investments there.

Bangladesh RMG exports to India increases by 79%

With Indian business giants such as Reliance and Tata opening their retail stores across the country,

Bangladesh’s exports of readymade garments to the country have increased by 79.09 per cent.

Bangladesh is closer to the Indian market compared to Europe or the US. This enables the country to act as a major supplier to India. It also proves as win-win situation for both countries as Bangladesh imports raw materials for garment making from India, augmenting India’s exports.

India and China are two of the biggest markets for Bangladesh. Both countries have now shifted from manual industries to high-tech industries and their labor wages have also been increasing, which has eventually led to a hike in their production costs. This led to most RMG manufacturers shifting their production to Bangladesh. n



AppArel / TeCh TrenDs

Plus size women do not have to contend with ill-fitting, uncomfortable clothes anymore as brands extend their size ranges to cater to diverse body shapes. some of them are adopting newer technologies to create

made-to-measure clothes that fit customers like second skin.

3d body ModelSto create fitting garMentS

newer fashion e-commerce brands like redThread and measure & made are ensuring absolute comfort for women buying from their online store. redThread founder and CeO Meghan Litchfield interviewed almost 100 women of all shapes

From customised to made-to-measure clothes,

brands reinvent their strategy



and sizes over a period of 18 months about their most preferred styles and the fit issues they were facing.

The brand has also collaborated with technology partner Cala to scan each woman’s body. For this, the customer first uploads his selfies through a data-encrypted text-link sent by the brand. Using these selfies, RedThread and Cala auto-generate a 3D body model and come up with perfect-fitting garments — mainly staples like wide-leg pants and T-shirts — for that shopper. This initiative has garnered a positive response from its customers as over the eight months in business, the brand has a return rate of less than 4 per cent and plans to expand its product range in the coming months.

focuSing on Shape and Size for right fitmeasure & made, launched in January this year, uses the

Fitlogic technology that not only takes into account the body shape of its customers but also their sizes. The company categories women into three shapes: straight, hourglass and extremely curvy. Using these parameters it has created a quiz for shoppers that inputs their height, typical dress pant size and body shape, among other stats, to find out what their Fitlogic size is. Using this technology, the brand has so far sold over 250,000 pairs of pants and jeans since its launch and has a return rate of less than the 50 per cent of national e-commerce average.

While brands like redThread and measure & made are successfully implementing these technologies to create customised clothes for women, the trend is not catching on with

bigger brands and retailers as the concept is not easy to achieve. however, made-to-measure brands can achieve this as they can have around 100 factories manufacturing clothes for them. around 70 per cent of redThread’s garments are pre-made. The company just tailors these garments by hand in its south san Franciso factory within a week of receiving the customers’ measurements. This also helps the company to curtail the amount of waste it generates. n

AppArel / TeCh TrenDs



suppliers in China are publicly traded companies that have multi-country footprints and that have diversified risk by building factories in places like Vietnam and Cambodia.

The US has used tariffs as a tool to negotiate better trade terms, saying bad deals cost millions of US jobs. Along with apparel, the new tariffs hit consumer goods such as electronics and toys and come in addition to those already imposed on other goods imported from China. The on-again, off-again nature of the US tariffs on Chinese goods has created uncertainty for many US retailers.

Levi’s, based in San Francisco, is part of a group of retailers who have been shifting their supply chains out of China to countries such as Vietnam and Bangladesh. The trend was initially in response to higher Chinese wages but the exodus is expected to be accelerated by the new tariffs. They are expected to increase consumers’ costs and have an impact across the entire retail industry. n

Puma is planning to shift its footwear and apparel production to either Bangladesh, Cambodia or Vietnam on account of the US threat of hiking tariffs as high as 25 per cent on

footwear. Currently, the company makes about one-third of its products in China. The tariffs mean Puma has to accept a lower US margin or raise prices. But tariffs are not the only reason for Puma’s shift. The company has been shifting production away from China over the past couple of years because of rising labor costs.

The US and China have not yet reached an agreement to de-escalate the trade war. Moreover, the US has threatened to slap duties on another $325 billion of goods. In the light of this, more companies are pulling out of China to save themselves from unwarranted losses.

Tariffs on shoes made in China are expected to be catastrophic for consumers, the companies and the US economy as a whole. However, Chinese consumers are shielded because the factories that once churned out products for the world increasingly serve domestic customers’ needs now. n

APPAreL / SOURCING

Levi Strauss plans to move production out of China

US tariff treats, rising labor costs force Puma to move out of China

The uncertainty hanging over tariffs on goods imported from the country is forcing Levi Strauss to move production

out of China. Just one or two per cent of Levi’s product sold in the United States are manufactured in China compared to 16 per cent two years ago. Many of the brand’s

Brands give sourcing bigger attention

The sustainability movement has altered the process of raw material sourcing in the apparel industry. Brands now prioritise

on the environmental original and impact of the ingredient that comprise their clothes. They focus on the cultivation, harvesting and extraction of the fiber, its textile processing and the end-use stage of that garment. They

also emphasise on the use of natural fibers that support farmers, enable a more traceable supply chain and help create transparency.

Lenzing’s Tencel with Refibra technology line introduced a couple of years ago—which uses cotton scraps blended with Tencel lyocell to create regenerated fiber produced in a close loop process—has been adopted by about a dozen brands and retailers. n

42 / APPAREL eXPOrT PrOMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINe | September 2019


market is highly integrated with the european fashion industry because of its proximity.

egypt is known for its textile industry, particularly cotton, as well as tailored clothing and denim manufacturing. Jordan, on the other hand, produces no textiles and has a forte in cut-and-sew synthetic knitwear. n

The sourcing costs of US fashion brands from Vietnam, Bangladesh, India and China have increased tremendously. The unit price of US apparel imports across the board

increased by 10.7 per cent in the first five months of 2019. The unit price of US apparel imports in the first five months of 2019

from Bangladesh, Vietnam and India shot up 25.6 per cent, 23.4 per cent and 21.2 per cent respectively. The number one factor driving this increase is the higher shipping and logistic costs.

The US tariffs are not likely to shake China’s role as a dominant textile and apparel supplier for the US market. Sourcing from China is not expected to significantly fall in the next two years. The unit price of apparel imports from China only grew by 3.3 per cent in the same period. Chinese suppliers have actually lowered sales price to keep sourcing orders while only around 9.3 per cent of textile products imported from China are now subject to new US tariffs. n

APPAreL / SOURCING

US importers seek sourcing alternatives in Africa

Sourcing cost of US fashion brands increases

US importers are looking for sourcing alternatives in Africa. The country sourced 119 per cent more apparels from ethiopia in May, while Kenya’s apparel shipments rose by

44.8 per cent. Madagascar’s shipments rose 20.4 per cent and Lesotho’s were up 19.8 per cent.

In the next decade, Africa will become a substantial player in global sourcing. The Africa Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) offers preferential trade treatment to a host of sub-Saharan Africa countries, from ethiopia to South Africa. ethiopia is seeing the fastest rate of growth in apparel imported into the US among AGOA countries. egypt has shown consistent strength as a supplier to US brands.

Morocco is the third most attractive investment destination in Africa. It has an established industry, the ability to service fast fashion firms and the free trade agreements it has with the US and the eU. The country has registered a 5 per cent year over year increase in its exports to the US and eU. The Moroccan

US fashion leaders adopt a cautious business outlook

US fashion brands, importers, wholesalers, retailers are adopting a cautious outlook towards their business,

sourcing prospects and trade policy. They are less optimistic about the five-year outlook for the US fashion industry. The trade war with China has increased their cost of doing business. But US buyers hesitate to shift their sourcing from China, since China does not have a near competitor in terms of the variety of products it can make.

Bangladesh is not as attractive as many of its competitors regarding speed to market, flexibility and agility, and risk of compliance. The country’s strengths are restricted to cotton trousers and cotton shirts which account for nearly 60 per cent of total US apparel imports from Bangladesh in the past ten years. n

APPAREL eXPOrT PrOMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINe | September 2019 / 43


The luxury fashion sector has, until now, remained immune to online selling as here the shopping experience in opulent boutiques

is as important for customers as the clothes

AppArel / LUXUrY

themselves.Therefore, for most luxury brands, going digital is just an effective way to add value to their business and communicate with their global market.

For example, Thailand-based firm Club21, a distributor of luxury fashion brands such as alexander Wang, aX armani

Luxury fashion brands focus on personalised

services as they go digital



exchange, Bao Baoissey miyake, Comme des garcons, DKnY, Diesel, emporio armani, marni, mulberry, Pleats Please issey miyake, Paul smith and stella mcCartney. The company, which has been successfully operating for four decades under the banner Club21 asia, has always emphasized on building long-term relationships with clients through its brand trust and services.

3c’S to lure cuStoMerSFor projecting a consistent positive image, the company

applies the principle of 3Cs. Of these, the first ‘C’ stands for communication. The company ensures effective communications with its clients through its online operations. it also has a presence on other social media tools such as Facebook, instagram, YouTube, etc.

The second ‘C’ stands for commerce. The company enables customers to solve their queries regarding the nature of its products and their prices. For this it has started @line where the customers can leave messages even when the shops are closed. The third ‘C’, customer, the customer service team forwards this message to the listed brands who send the pictures of their products with prices to the service teams. This service team then passes on the information to the customer.

Once a customer decides to purchase the product, the company organises free delivery, thus applying the third principle of offering convenience to its customers. This is the main reason the overall return rates for online purchases from the company are considerably lower than the standard 30 per cent.

higher brand loyalty through perSonaliSed Service

Like Club21, Pacifica Group provides its customers human interaction or personalised services that make them feel comfortable when they shop. The company ensures product delivery irrespective of location. For this, the company uses its e-commerce operations. For instance, if a customer who visits the company’s store at CentralWorld but doesn’t find a particular garment in her size, the company finds and delivers it to her. it is also uses courier mode of delivery as it ensures that the delivery reaches its customers safely besides providing them a personalized experience. n

AppArel / LUXUrY



The growing hazards of fast fashion are forcing many brands to adopt sustainability practices in their operations. For example, Zara has

introduced a sustainability pledge. however, the brand produces around 450 million garments a year besides releasing 500 new designs every week, about 20,000 a year. This makes its adherence to sustainability difficult.

The model of fast-fashion business is antithesis to sustainability. even though many fast fashion companies uphold recycling of

AppArel / FasT FashiOn

garments, they do not have the required capabilities to recycle garments at the scale needed at the current production rates. many fast fashion companies advocate the use of sustainable fabrics. however, these fabrics require a tremendous amount of energy and natural resources to produce which prevents them from being 100 per cent sustainable.

focuS on need-baSed production to booSt SuStainability

small brands try to be sustainable by producing lesser clothes. They use strategies like producing made-to-order, to curtail waste. Clothe designs are of high quality to ensure longevity. small

Reworking business culture to make fast-fashion

sustainable



brands also follow the ‘anti-fashion calendar’ by producing only when required as against large companies that produce clothes in bulk. so, if large corporate retailers aim to adopt sustainability they need to rework their entire business culture.

even though corporate brands and retailers provide statistics about their environmental impact reductions within their supply chains, these reports are voluntary and not verified externally. Their method for measuring improvements is also not consistent or standardised.

a brand can’t claim to be sustainable just by using sustainable materials. it still has to deal with issues like cheap costs and speedy production which can lead to labor exploitation. it can’t urge consumers to consume responsibly as this would ultimately affect bottomline. it can therefore, provide repair or tailoring services which will encourage consumers to use their clothes for a longer period.

To achieve the United nations sustainable Development goals, including the 2C global temperature target, the fashion industry must change their outlook towards sourcing, manufacturing and distributing clothes. n

AppArel / FasT FashiOn



waste, pollution, and other harmful practices in the industry. They set out minimum requirements on garment durability, material health, recyclability and traceability.

The guidelines are based on the principles of the circular economy and will ensure that jeans last longer, can easily be recycled, and are made in a way that is better for the environment and the health of garment workers.

According to the guidelines, a pair of jeans should be to withstand at least 30 washes. Its garment should include clear product care information on labels; contain at least 98 per cent cellulose fibers made from regenerative, organic or transitional farming methods; should not contain metal rivets or keep these to a minimum; and should be easy to disassemble for recycling. n

As per Retail Dive, textile waste increased by a massive 811 per cent from 1960 to 2015. Majority of this waste, approximately 66 per cent, is being dumped in landfills.

Plastics show the largest increase in waste since 1960, a colossal 8,746 per cent. Rubber and leather, common materials used in footwear and clothing, have also shown a significant increase at 361 per cent.

The mounting problem of textile waste is beginning to be quantified in scientific research. Across the globe consumers

now purchase more than 80 billion pieces of new clothing each year, with an increasing amount ending up in landfills.

Last year, Burberry came under fire after it was unveiled that the company had burnt millions

of dollars worth of unsold stock. It has since announced that it will put an end to this process, in addition to no longer using real fur and committing to becoming carbon neutral by 2022. Nike has launched its circular design guide in order to promote sustainability in the industry and address the growing impact of climate change. Uniqlo parent Fast Retailing has decided to cut down on single use plastic by 85 per cent by 2020. Zara plans to use 100 per cent sustainable fabrics by 2025. n

APPAReL / SuStainability

Ellen MacArthur Foundation releases new guidelines for denim manufacturing

Textile waste increases by 811%

Ellen MacArthur Foundation has released a set of guidelines for manufacturing of denims. These guidelines aim to tackle

Wrangler to source 100% sustainable cotton by 2025

Wrangler aims to source 100 per cent of its cotton from farms pursuing sustainable practices by the end

of 2025. The brand recently launched its Wrangler Rooted Collection, a limited edition premium jeans capsule meant to support US

sustainably grown cotton in five Southern states.

Each piece of this collection including the Alabama Jean, the Georgia Jean, the North Carolina Jean, the Tennessee Jean and the Texas Jean–uses fabrics made with cotton grown, milled, then cut and sewn in the United States and treated with a unique wash, as well as trim and patch details featuring the state’s silhouette

and other embellishments. The collection also includes two T-shirt designs for each state and two national designs.

Drawing heavily on the country’s heritage, the collection will be available in Western stores and some select farm and fleet stores located in the five different states represented by the Rooted Collection. n

48 / APPAREL eXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINe | September 2019


Big brands like Wrangler, Made well and Gap have signed on to participate in the ellen MacArthur Foundation’s call for more sustainable denim. The foundation recently released

a new set of guidelines to address the problem of waste within the denim industry.

Besides these well-known brands, a handful of independent brands are also opting for eco-friendly denim like the brand Boyish, which has formulated a top-to-bottom sustainability

model that uses one-third the typical amount of water required for production. The brand’s dyeing process leverages reduced indigo with 80 per cent less sulphates and caustic soda than standard dye. Around 20 per cent of the brand’s products are made from deadstock or vintage fabrics that are then turned into new items.

Another denim brand Warp + Weft recently saved over 572 million gallons of water thanks to its implementation of eco-friendly production methods. n

APPAReL / SuStainability

Zara to use 100 per cent sustainable fabrics by 2025

Denim brands opt for sustainable production methods

Zara plans to use 100 per cent sustainable fabrics to make its garments by 2025.

The brand produces an average of 500 new designs a week and 20,000 designs each year. It is currently expanding into new markets like India besides expanding its online presence globally. Among all its announcements — from reducing landfill waste to using renewable energy — the switch to lower impact materials and removing hazardous chemicals from the supply chain is the most significant shift, by far.

Around 80 per cent of the energy consumed in Zara’s headquarters, factories and stores will come from renewable sources. Zara is bent on eliminating landfill waste. By 2023, Zara’s wood-pulp-derived viscose will not come from endangered forests. n

Inditex to go fully organic by 2025

Inditex plans to use more organic, sustainable and recycled cotton, polyester and linen by 2025. The goal covers all of Inditex’s

eight brands including Zara. Cotton, polyester, viscose and linen together comprise 90 per cent of all the raw material that Inditex sources. The group has established an in-house label called Join Life. The brand also urges all linen

producers to embrace certification programs of third party certification bodies that certify that the fibers meet their requirements. One of the programs available, European Flax, which includes audits from bodies including Bureau Veritas, is enough to win inclusion in Inditex’s Join Life. Another certification program is called Masters of Linen, which guarantees that the linen is 100 per cent made in Europe, from fiber and spinning to weaving and knitting. n

APPAREL eXPORT PROMOTION COUNCIL MAGAZINe | September 2019 / 49


One of the significant contributors to environmental pollution, the fashion industry never found itself heavily under the spotlight

until now. As a recent survey by McKinsey & Company revealed, clothing production across the world doubled between 2000 and 2014. People buy new clothes in large quantities. However, around 60 per cent of these ultimately end up in incinerators or landfills within the first 12 months.

To prevent this, brands are adopting sustainability measures in their operations.

AppArel / susTAinAbiliTy

AppArel / insiGHT However, their focus often misleads as they emphasise on a single sustainable component like the recycled ocean plastic. To prevent this, denim brand levi’s opted for a complete redesign of systems. Though aware that it cannot recycle the snaps or zippers of its fabrics recycled from reclaimed bottle, it aimed to create something better than was available.

SuStainable fabricS dominate new collectionS of the brand

The brand recently launched a new range of garments designed with 100 percent cotton Thermadapt fabric. These garments are made from a polyester thread wrapped in cotton. This thread is then woven into denim and further dissolved

Holistic sustainability initiatives to save

environment



and recaptured for future use. The resulting fabric looks like a heavyweight jean but is 30 percent lighter than traditional denim; it also wicks moisture from the body and provides enough insulation for year-round wear.

The brand also introduced Wellthread cottonised hemp collection as its team learned how to process, spin and weave the thread. in upcoming seasons, the brand will incorporate this cottonised hemp into its indigo denim and finish it with a range of washes.

technologieS to tackle conSumptionThe belief that people should buy less is an odd position

to hold as one of the most influential executives at the world’s largest denim brand says. However, levi’s Wellthread x Jacquard by Google jacket, endorses this view of the brand. The jacket, featuring a touch interface on the left wrist paired to the wearer’s phone, allows the consumer an on-the-go access to navigation, messaging, music, etc. This stops the consumers from throwing away the jackets after a few uses. The brand also upgrades the jacket’s digital functionality with new features by adding and monetising digital value rather than simply producing more stuff.

new programme for cuStomiSed offeringS

The brand recently opened its flagship store in Tokyo, complete with a full-service tailor shop and the brand’s lot no. 1 program with master tailor Mio yamamoto.

This store will also offer the brand’s premium collections, including levi’s Vintage Clothing, levi’s Made & Crafted, levi’s Authorised Vintage, Made in Japan and iconic 501 jeans. The three-level, 7,000-square-foot store is located in the Harajuku neighborhood, an area known for its youth culture and fashion influences. With glass indigo prints on the facade, the store incorporates the surrounding area into its décor and will host performances by local artists and in-store pop-ups.

The lot no. 1 program provides consumers with an opportunity to connect with a levi’s master tailor for a custom, handmade pair of jeans. From consultation and measurement to final fitting, the entire process takes around 16 hours. The program is available in only five other stores in the world.

While the lot no. 1 program offers a traditional approach to customisation, levi’s recently announced the launch of Future Finish, a new online platform that allows consumers to personalise their jeans through laser technology. The platform allows consumers to select tints, prints and other fashion details.

Thus, though levi’s experiments with new and emerging technologies it adopts a simple, humanistic approach to attack the thoughtless consumption cycle by making clothes that last long. n

AppArel / susTAinAbiliTy



Brands are slowly realising the importance, ‘Honesty’ as they take to transparency by listing their supply chains on their websites

and also making public transparency pledges.

Bangladesh shows the way Businesses are working with other

industry stakeholders -- including NGOs -- on industry-wide initiatives. They are also collaborating with their competitors on sustainability initiatives. Bangladesh leads the transparency front as both the Bangladesh

AppArel / TRANSPARENCY

Accord and the Alliance for Bangladesh Factory Safety carried out major safety programs across the Bangladesh RMG sector whose information was made public on the websites of these respective bodies. The Bangladesh Supreme Court extended the tenure of the Accord on Fire and Building Safety agreement in Bangladesh by 12 months through to 2020. Once the agreement is handed over to a new, national body in Bangladesh, all existing transparency features of the Accord will be maintained, including full disclosure of all results of inspection and remediation activities on a public website.

Earlier this year, a Bangladeshi team of researchers began mapping every single garment factory in the country. Equipped with new mobile apps these researchers carry out a door-to-

Apparels brands more about transparency now



door census besides visiting thousands of factories. This enables them to collect GPS-linked data points from factory-owners, workers, and organisations in the garment supply chains.

C&A Foundation and BRAC University collaborated with BGMEA to administer the digital factory map. The aim of this map is to permanently transition accountability for apparel factory improvements in Bangladesh.

transparency improves reputationsOne of the biggest benefits of transparency is that it

improves business reputation. Apparel companies such as H&M, Levi’s and Nike have incorporated transparency in their operations encouraging other brands like Benetton, Primark, Hugo Boss, and Abercrombie and Fitch to follow suit. As a research from Fashion Revolution notes, by April 2019, 180 brands across 75 companies had disclosed at least some of the facilities making their clothes. Businesses disclosing their

suppliers have been applauded by their customers. On the other hand, apparel brands that did not disclose their supply chains have been reprimanded.

Transparency policy also offers certain operational and legal benefits. Publishing the lists of their suppliers can help brands deal with unauthorised sub-contracting besides highlighting workplace issues such as labor violations, providing stronger due diligence, and offering better compliance with current regulatory regimes.

There has been growing consensus around the issue of transparency over the years from organisations such as the German Partnership for Sustainable Textiles and the US-based Fair Labour Association (FLA). It won’t be long before other affiliate groups follow this example and demand full supply chain disclosure from their members. n

AppArel / TRANSPARENCY



AppArel / EVENTS

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, to be held from September 25 to 27, 2019, will also set up a zone known as Beyond Denim.

The zone, housing over 140 denim suppliers, will display eco-conscious fabrics. It will also

feature a display zone themed around natural fibers, eco-friendly dyes and a generous helping of nostalgia.

Orta Anadolu from Turkey will showcase its new Zero-Max line. Described as sustainable denim taken to the next level, the fabric is crafted with an unique twill and elasticity fusion to

make the denim soft and shaping, while being revitalised with more color options, recycled polyester and post-consumer recycled denim. It will also bring its Halys denim, coated with traditional artisanal red clay from a local river, for a unique texture and color. Indigo Textile from pakistan will showcase its collections including 4-D eXpanded (stretch denim), retro-relived (vintage inspired looks) and Habitat (breathable yarn for a lived in denim texture inspired by the earthiness of nature). n

Intertextile Shanghai to set up denim zone

IAF’s World Fashion Convention to attract global apparel industry leaders

inspiring examples of a smarter apparel supply chain. Top speakers from across the globe will cover the width of the supply chain, from raw materials to apparel sourcing and from production to retail trends. The convention will also provide an excellent opportunity to meet the global industry in one location. Previous editions of the convention were held in Istanbul, Mumbai, Hong Kong, Rio de Janeiro, Porto, Shanghai and Maastricht. This year, Pakistan was chosen as the host as it has a significant textiles and apparel industry and because the potential for further growth is large following an important improvement in the safety situation in the country. The convention draws on an average 300 delegates from over 20 countries. n

The next edition of World Fashion Convention, to be held in Pakistan, from November 12 to 13, 2019, will attract global apparel industry

leaders.The event will be organised by the International

Apparel Federation (IAF), the only global federation of its kind representing apparel associations from 60 countries, representing over 150,000 companies. The IAF convention caters to apparel industry leaders from across the supply chain, from all continents. The convention will showcase



AppArel / EVENTS

Artificial Intelligence on Fashion and Textile (AIFT) will be held simultaneously with Shanghai Tex from November 25 to 27, 2019. The event will provide an open platform for

researchers, engineers and practitioners in the area of AI, fashion and textile to explore the ways of driving the industry toward Industry 4.0 and the new era of retail. Speakers at the event will cover the internet of things, textile and apparel supply chain modeling, textile material defect detection, textile material color measurement, wearable devices, 3D image modeling for fitting, retail sales replenishment and fashion sales forecasting, carrying out a comprehensive analysis of the opportunities and challenges in the textile and fashion industry brought by AI.

AIFT will develop a long-term cooperation with Shanghai Tex 2019. An Artificial Intelligence alliance will be established alongwith a number of institutions during AIFT 2019. Adopting research, application, popularisation as its core values, AIFT aims to connect researchers and industry practitioners to accelerate the development and application of AI in the textile and fashion industry.

Computer technology, especially AI’s rapid development over the past 20 years, has changed lifestyle and society. The textile and fashion industry will step into the fourth industrial revolution as soon as mature technology applications in production processes become routine. n

Shanghai Tex to feature AI event

International Sourcing Expo to be held in November 2019the upcoming edition, EPCH is offering subsidised participation rates for registered Market Access Initiatives exporters. One of the objectives of EPCH is to create awareness through seminars and workshops on export marketing, procedures and documentation, packaging, quality compliances, service tax, foreign trade policy, design development and awareness about trends and forecasts prevalent in the world market. n

International Sourcing Expo will be held from November 12 to 14, 2019 in Australia. The trade show will allow businesses to network with buyers from Australia and New Zealand and expand their trade

network in the area. The trade show covers a number of product categories including fashion accessories, textiles, leather goods, home ware, gifts items, and eco-friendly products.

India’s Export Promotion Council for Handicrafts will take a group of Indian businesses to Australia for the expo. The handicraft sector is the largest employment providing sector in India after agriculture. For




APPAREL / EvEnts

In a presentation on August 5, 2019 before Members of Parliament from important apparel clusters like Coimbatore, Erode, salem, Gundur, Dindigul etc, AEPC emphasised on

A delegation from Uganda visited the Apparel House on July 22, 2019, to explore the avenues of engagement and

the need for continuation of policy support like MEIs for apparel sector to regain its competitiveness. n

collaboration between apparel manufacturers of India and Uganda. n

AEPC emphasises on the continuation of MEIS

Uganda delegation visits Apparel House

Shri HKL Magu, Chairman, AEPC, Dr. A. Sakthivel, Vice Chairman, AEPC, Shri Virender Uppal, EC member, AEPC, Shri Lalit Thukral, EC member, AEPC along with Members of Parliament.

Shri H K L Magu, Chairman, AEPC with a delegation from Uganda.



DGFT vide its Trade Notice No. 28/2019-20 dated 05.08.2019 has notified a mechanism to apply for additional claims under MEIS for certain HS codes for which enhanced rates were notified

with retrospective effect. Directorate has notified higher rates for certain HS Codes during the Mid term Review of the Policy, for export made from 01.11.2017.this was done vide Public notice 42 dated 24.11.2017, Public notice 44 dated 05.12.2017,Public notice 02 dated 01.05.2018 andPublic notice 28 dated 08.08.2018.

APPAREL / MInIstRy notIfICAtIons

IGST refunds- mechanism to verify the IGST payments for a few Indian exports

Exporters faced several issues during the initial period of the Gst launch as the IGst amount was often wrongly filed. This resulted in a difference in IGST for export between GSTR1 & GSTR3B.

on account of this, IGst refunds could not get processed properly. Circular no. 12/2018- Customs dated 29.05.2018 was issued to rectify the issue and many exporters have rectified the error.

However, there were instances of such errors in later months as well. Now, CBIC vide Circular No. 25/2019-customs dated 27 August, 2019 have activated the same Circular no. 12/2018- Customs for the shipping bill filled during for FY 2018-2019

Thus, as per guidelines provided in Para 3A and 3B of the Circular No. 12/2018- Customs dated 29.05.2018 will be now active for period 2018-19.

Sub.: IGST Export refunds- extension in SB005 alternate mechanism and revised processing in certain cases including

disbursal of Compensation cess

Sub-: Clarification in respect of goods sent/taken out of India for exhibition or on consignment basis for export promotion

CBIC vide its various circulars in 2018 provided manual and alternate mechanism to rectify the errors of invoice mismatch (SB005 error) for shipping Bill filed upto 15.11.2018.

Now, based on the request, facility for rectification for all cased covered under Circular No. 40/2018-Customs dated 24.10.2018 have been extended for Shipping Bills filed upto 31.07.2019

Exporter may refer the Circular no. 26/2019-Customs dated 27.08.2019 in this regard.

Sub: Mechanism to apply for additional claims under MEIS for certain HS codes for which enhanced rates were notified

with retrospective effect

CBIC vide its Circular No. 108/27/2019-GST dated 18.07.2019 has clarified on the procedure to be followed in respect of goods sent/taken out of India for exhibition or on consignment basis for export

promotion. According to circular, the goods sent/taken out of India crystallise into exports, wholly or partly, only after a gap of certain period from the date they were physically sent/taken out of India.

Read the full notification for details


APPAREL / Gst UPDAtE

GST makes filing of annual returns compulsory

As per section 44(1) of CGST act, all registered persons, including those registered under composition levy scheme, other than an input service distributor, casual taxpayer and a non-resident taxable person, will henceforth have to electronically furnish annual returns for every fi nancial year in a manner prescribed on or before December 31, 2019, following the end of such fi nancial year.

As per the GSTN portal, the last date for fi ling this GST annual report is March 31, 2020. However, notifi cation for the same is awaited.

filing of annual returns is mandatory for all registered persons even if they do not engage in any business activity during the relevant period. In case they do not pay the Gst or their turnover during the period is nil, these people will have to fi le the NIL annual return.

Annual Audit Report in form GSTR-9C

Every registered person, who needs to get his accounts audited in accordance with the provisions of section 35(5) of CGST Act (If aggregate turnover exceeds Rs. 2 crore), will henceforth have to furnish a copy of his audited annual accounts and a reconciliation statement, duly certifi ed, and such other particulars as may be prescribed in form GstR-9C electronically.

this report is basically reconciliation between annual return and audited annual fi nancial statements. In addition, part V of the report includes the auditor’s recommendations on the additional liability to be discharged by the taxpayer due to non-reconciliation of turnover or non-reconciliation of input tax credit.

the auditor also recommends the payment of any other amount for supplies, not included in annual return. Any refund erroneously taken shall also have to be paid back and also declared in this table. Lastly, any other outstanding demands that need to be recommended to the auditor should be declared in this table.

Any liability to be paid whether due to output liability or due to wrongly input taken should be paid through DRC-3 form and declared by the auditor in GstR-9C.

For the calculation of aggregate turnover for fi nancial year 2017-18, the period from July, 2017 to March, 2018 is only to be considered.




Different types of annual returns

There are 4 types of annual returns under the Goods and Service Tax:1. GSTR-9: GSTR-9 needs to be fi led by regular taxpayers, other than those paying

GST under composition scheme, fi ling GSTR-1 and 3B. This form is basically a summary of GSTR-1 and 3B for the fi nancial year.

2. GSTR-9A: GSTR-9A needs to be fi led by the persons registered under composition scheme under Gst. this form is simpler compared to GstR-9 as the details regarding Input tax Credit do not need to be given.

3. GSTR-9B: GSTR-9B needs to be fi led by the e-commerce operators who have fi led GSTR-8 during the fi nancial year. (Every e-commerce operator who is required to collect TCS for all the taxable supplies must fi le GSTR-8).

4. GSTR-9C: GSTR-9C should be fi led by all the taxpayers whose annual turnover exceeds Rs. 2 crore during the fi nancial year and are required to get their accounts audited by a practicing Chartered Accountant or Cost Accountant.

Separate annual returns for each GSTIN

If a taxable person with same Income tax PAn has multiple GstIn, he needs to fi le separate annual returns and separate annual audit reports for each of his GstIn. If a taxable entity having multiple GstIn has an aggregate turnover as per its annual fi nancial statement exceeding Rs. 2 crore, he needs to submit a separate reconciliation and audit report for its each the branch/division/factory even if the aggregate turnover of each of these is less than Rs. 2 Crore.

Penalty for on-filing or late filing of returns

Late fees for not fi ling or late fi ling annual returns and annual audit report within the due date is Rs. 100 per day each for CGst and sGst subject to maximum 0.25 per cent of taxpayer’s turnover. Thus total minimum penalty for late fi ling is Rs. 200 per day. However, there are no late fees on IGst.

Author’s suggestion: A taxable person whose turnover does not exceed Rs. 2 crore, need not submit the reconciliation statement of return, submitted during the fi nancial year and annual fi nancial statement. However, it is highly advisable that he prepares and preserves these reconciliations as for further inspection during the departmental and other audit. The registered person can refer to the CBIC press release dated June 03, 2019 and July 03, 2019 for further clarifi cations.

[The author is Senior Partner in M/s. CHHABRA B K & ASSOCAITES (Delhi / NCR). He can be reached at [email protected] and # 9810380489 / 9871630858]

APPAREL / Gst UPDAtE


AppArel / aepc event calendar

CAleNDAr OF eVeNTS - 20191

3

2

4

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, China

International Sourcing expo Australia

25-27 September, 2019, China

12-14 November, 2019, aUSTRaLia

9-10 October, 2019, SPain

25-27 November, 2019, China

India Apparel & Accessories fair at Madrid, Spain

Artificial Intelligence on Fashion and Textile, China

60 / aPPaREL eXpOrT prOMOTION COUNCIl MAGAZINe | September 2019


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