aldabra atoll: â€wonder of nature, given to humanity by the

1
ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT SATURDAY-SUNDAY, JUNE 27-28, 2009 | 5 THE GLOBAL EDITION OF THE NEW YORK TIMES .... Aldabra Atoll, a Unesco World Heritage marine site in the Seychelles, is the world’s largest raised atoll. Its unique ecosystem evolved in near isolation for 125,000 years The atoll is located in the Indian Ocean. A ldabra Atoll is a windswept, unwel- coming crumb of land, floating in open ocean far from anywhere and covered with razor-sharp limestone and pet- rified coral. It has no airstrip or fresh water, but it is among the greatest intact wildlife sanctuaries in the world. Located in the archipelago of the Seychelles in the Indian Ocean, northeast of Madagascar, Aldabra is the world’s largest raised atoll. Its ecosystem is unique, having evolved in near isolation for 125,000 years. Aldabra is one of the last natural environ- ments still dominated by reptiles (the giant tortoise), and it has the planet’s largest pop- ulation of them (more than 100,000). Aldabra and the Galapágos Islands are the only remaining islands playing host to impor- tant giant tortoise populations; once wide- spread, they have become systematically extinct upon the arrival of humans into their ecosystems. Visitors to Aldabra are rare. Those who arrive by infrequent boats cannot stay — there are no hotels, only a lone research out- post staffed by 12 rangers. Any trip is limited to a few hours, and this depends on the tides. Even those who do make the trek to the far-flung outpost in the Indian Ocean shouldn’t expect picture-postcard, white- sand beaches. The entire atoll is battered by breakers that churn in and out of its vast la- goon twice daily. Some visitors never even see the island. The seas may be too rough to view anything but dunes and surf. Aldabra’s natural fortifications have pro- tected it from people; the little there is to ex- ploit has also helped preserve it. During the 1960s, the U.K. government wanted to build a military base, but growing awareness in the scientific community convinced the government to look elsewhere; it eventu- ally decided to establish a base in Diego Garcia. The atoll is kept closed because environmental organizations — Unesco’s World Heritage Centre, which in- scribed it in 1982; the Seychelles Islands Foundation (SIF), which has managed it since 1979; and the more recent Aldabra Foundation — want to maintain Aldabra as an example of a pristine atoll wilderness. As a time capsule, or blueprint for evolution, it is of considerable scientific importance, ‘‘a perpetually observable storehouse of data on biodiversity in a manner no longer possi- ble in much of the world,’’ according to the Aldabra Foundation's mission statement. Aldabra is special for Dr. Frauke Fleis- cher-Dogley, SIF’s chief executive officer, be- cause it ‘‘feels like a different planet,’’ one of the few places where nature is not com- promised or affected by humans. She notes: ‘‘The ecosystem is still intact, and one can experience the feeling of a whole system, not only a handful of species in an otherwise degraded or heavily managed area. One can almost feel the interactions there as they happen.’’ The atoll has three different marine envir- onments: its vast lagoon, the channels connecting the lagoon with the Indian Ocean, and the outer reefs along the atoll. These coral reefs are home to sea creatures of all varieties: dolphins, sharks, sponges, rays and crabs. The last surviving flightless bird indigenous to the Indian Ocean, the Aldabra rail, is found only here. These elements make Aldabra a poten- tially valuable example to other protected marine areas in determining precisely how much human presence and what types of protective strategies are required to sustain its unique biodiversity. Maintaining the atoll is costly, however. Aldabra lies 1,200 kilometers (745 miles) away from the main island group of the Seychelles (population 80,000). A second World Heritage site, the Vallée de Mai, is lo- cated in the main island group, which is an The heart of a ‘‘Haute Horlogerie’’ watch is its caliber — its mechanical movement. Since 1833, Jaeger- LeCoultre has created more than 1,000 different calibers, including the smallest movement, the thinnest and some of the most complicated. Three hundred can be seen in its Heritage Gallery, a museum where its famous watches are on display. Preserving the heritage of a craft is as important as conserving a natural wonder, and at Jaeger- LeCoultre headquarters, in the Vallée de Joux near Geneva, this heritage goes back to 1559. ‘‘That’s the year the first LeCoultre — Pierre — settled,’’ explains Sebastian Vivas, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house historian and curator of the Heritage Gallery. ‘‘He brought a spirit that has remained. There was something special about the people who came to this isolated valley, cleared the land and developed the villages. They were pioneers. They mastered metallurgy, then watchmaking, transforming the Vallée de Joux into the prosperous place where the world’s finest watches are made.’’ Vivas says this heritage gives Jaeger-LeCoultre its special identity. The Swiss manufacture’s inventors and the competencies they passed on to succeeding generations are, he says, directly connected to the culture of the Vallée de Joux. ‘‘The first pioneers had to develop a do-it- yourself philosophy and find their own solutions,’’ Vivas says. ‘‘Today, this remains because each model of a watch has its own movement, and each is developed at the same time as the watch. The inside and the outside are made for each other. This harmony is one of the secrets of what makes a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch so special and so exclusive.’’ The 33rd Session of Unesco’s World Heritage Committee Meeting takes place in Seville, Spain, on June 22-30. This intergovernmental annual event, which convenes nearly 1,000 people, is built around two main themes: nomination of new World Heritage sites, and review of the state of conservation of sites already listed, including reports on 150 World Heritage sites. Review of the year’s activities, budget issues and future projects are also on the agenda. Chaired by María Jesús San Segundo, Spain’s permanent delegate to Unesco, the committee consists of representatives from 21 signatories of the World Heritage Convention. For more information, visit http://whc.unesco.org In the Vallée de Joux, a watchmaker preserves the heritage of craftsmanship SPOTLIGHT | An isolated sanctuary Aldabra Atoll: ‘Wonder of nature, given to humanity by the people of Seychelles’ EXPLORING | Another way of sharing heritage Virtual tourism: A World Heritage site goes to the people Annual meeting in Seville Aldabra Atoll is home to more than 100,000 giant tortoises M ost Unesco World Heritage sites encourage tourism, but Aldabra Atoll is an exception. Inhospitable and remote, it is basically a no-go zone. The atoll is 35 kilometers (25 miles) long and 15 kilometers wide, but a mere one-20th of it is accessible, and only two locations are open to visitors; what goes on there is research and preservation work. The atoll is one of nature’s crown jewels, however, and Carlos Vejarano, founder of the Aldabra Foundation (www.aldabrafoundation.org), says, ‘‘Every- one can’t go, but I can bring it to you.’’ Vejarano has long been involved in envi- ronmental activities, such as high-mountain reforestation programs in Nepal. He recalls how he originally sought to make Aldabra better known. ‘‘I thought I could create sup- port by going out and asking people to con- tribute,’’ he says. ‘‘But that wasn’t working. Instead, I saw one needs to photograph the place and do exhibits of it.’’ Exhibits, he says, are the perfect vehicle for creating aware- ness of this unusual spot. ‘‘Suddenly you’re sharing this World Heritage site, but in an- other way. In this form, it can go to a lot of people, especially children.’’ Realizing that neither the scientific impor- tance nor the wonders of Aldabra can be ad- equately described, Vejarano thought the public could get a good idea through a col- lection of the images, objects, sounds and smells of the place. He put together an itin- erant exhibit, which went to The Hague in 2006 and to Paris’s Natural History Mu- seum last year (attracting 360,000 visitors in five months). Its next stop could be Monaco’s Oceanography Museum, which would be fitting, since Jacques-Yves Cous- teau, the museum’s director for more than 30 years, was one of the first to reveal to the world the wonders of Aldabra, in the 1950s. The exhibit celebrates Aldabra and features an interactive model of the atoll that explains its uniqueness — everything from the complicated riptides in its lagoon to the vegetation that surrounds it. Sounds and smells are part of the show, as are mul- timedia programs, photos, tactile screens and games for children. There are replicas of its giant tortoises and a model reef. Chil- dren can send e-cards. The exhibit also tells the story of World Heritage and explains how Aldabra was photographed for the exhibition — an undertaking not without hardship. Since the land is practically impenetrable, most of the filming had to be done in or on the water. Not many World Heritage sites can say they tour with major, six-month shows at the world’s top museums, but it is only through photos that most people can get to Aldabra. Vejarano is raising awareness — virtually — turning it into a World Heritage site that can come to people. ‘‘Each person tries to find a way to help,’’ says Vejarano. ‘‘I decided to photograph and make exhibits, bringing Aldabra to people so we all can share it.’’ Bringing humanity its heritage, so people can all better appreciate it, has a message in itself, he points out. ‘‘The exhibit has got people talking about Aldabra,’’ he says, ‘‘and it is another way to make them aware of the environment, aware that nature is us and is our heritage.’’ He is particularly eager to target young people. ‘‘Children see the exhibit, and begin developing an attitude that we have to care more about our environment, that it has to become more sustainable. I think we need to go more in that direction.’’ important tourist destination. Tourist reven- ues and entry fees are used by the SIF, which also manages the Vallée de Mai, to cover the cost of maintaining Aldabra. The two sites’ survival are intimately linked. ‘‘This arrangement is practical,’’ says Marc Patry, a Unesco program specialist. ‘‘It ensures that Aldabra’s management costs are covered. But it’s risky. Should something happen to the tourism industry, or should the Vallée de Mai no longer be an important destination, the whole model could fall apart.’’ The SIF, aware of this, is seeking ways to diversify financing and reduce costs: renewable energy for Aldabra is one possibility, notes Fleischer-Dogley. Carlos Vejarano, a Spanish board mem- ber of the SIF, was behind the 2005 found- ing of the Aldabra Foundation (www.aldabra foundation.org), a Geneva-based group that sponsors research on the island, as well as educational activities, such as an itinerant exhibit. To this end, it is helped by the Seychelles’s people and government, whose environmental record, Vejarano says, is admirable. ‘‘They have environment- ally aware people and programs, and the government is behind them,’’ says Vejarano. ‘‘Their leaders realize they belong to an inter- national community and are guardians of something they gave to mankind 30 years ago. They are Aldabra’s trustees. They’re proud of that and take their responsibility seriously.’’ This awareness, he says, has be- come part of the Seychelles’s culture. At one end of the atoll, a bronze plaque, standing on fossilized coral, reads: ‘‘Aldabra, wonder of nature, given to humanity by the people of Seychelles.’’ Vejarano says: ‘‘Of- ten when people get the World Heritage la- bel, they think, ‘They’re going to give us something.’ It creates expectations. What’s commendable about the Seychelles govern- ment and people is they see it another way. They have a real sense of taking care of the place.’’ Aldabra in images: Traveling exhibits are one way of sharing the atoll with the world. EXPEDITION TEAM ALDABRA / FOTO NATURA EXPEDITION TEAM ALDABRA / FOTO NATURA Visit the Tides of Time Web site for videos, interviews and more information on World Heritage marine sites: whc.unesco.org/tidesoftime/ THE HIGHEST WATCHMAKING FOR THE DEEPEST DIVING. MASTER COMPRESSOR DIVING PRO GEOGRAPHIC. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 979/1000 ® A mechanical depth gauge with indication to 80 metres. Two patented compression keys for perfect water resistance to 300 metres. Performance exceeds the prevailing NIHS norms. An automatic movement with a geographical function indicating world time. HAVE YOU EVER WORN A REAL WATCH? Jaeger-LeCoultre and UNESCO in partnership for conservation of World Heritage sites. A real commitment to a precious cause. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com W O R L D H E R IT A G E P A T R I M O I N E M O N D I A L P A T R I M O N I O M U N D IA L World Heritage Centre In partnership with United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization

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Page 1: Aldabra Atoll: â€Wonder of nature, given to humanity by the

ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT SATURDAY-SUNDAY, JUNE 27-28, 2009 | 5THE GLOBAL EDITION OF THE NEW YORK TIMES....

Aldabra Atoll, a UnescoWorld Heritage marine site in theSeychelles, is the world’slargest raised atoll. Its uniqueecosystem evolved innear isolation for 125,000 years

The atoll is located in theIndian Ocean.

A ldabra Atoll is a windswept, unwel-coming crumb of land, floating in openocean far from anywhere and

covered with razor-sharp limestone and pet-rified coral. It has no airstrip or fresh water,but it is among the greatest intact wildlifesanctuaries in the world.

Located in the archipelago of theSeychelles in the Indian Ocean, northeast ofMadagascar, Aldabra is the world’s largestraised atoll. Its ecosystem is unique, havingevolved in near isolation for 125,000 years.Aldabra is one of the last natural environ-ments still dominated by reptiles (the gianttortoise), and it has the planet’s largest pop-ulation of them (more than 100,000).Aldabra and the Galapágos Islands are theonly remaining islands playing host to impor-tant giant tortoise populations; once wide-spread, they have become systematicallyextinct upon the arrival of humans into theirecosystems.

Visitors to Aldabra are rare. Those whoarrive by infrequent boats cannot stay —there are no hotels, only a lone research out-post staffed by 12 rangers. Any trip is limitedto a few hours, and this depends on thetides. Even those who do make the trek tothe far-flung outpost in the Indian Oceanshouldn’t expect picture-postcard, white-sand beaches. The entire atoll is battered by

breakers that churn in and out of its vast la-goon twice daily. Some visitors never evensee the island. The seas may be too roughto view anything but dunes and surf.

Aldabra’s natural fortifications have pro-tected it from people; the little there is to ex-ploit has also helped preserve it. During the1960s, the U.K. government wanted to builda military base, but growing awareness inthe scientific communityconvinced the governmentto look elsewhere; it eventu-ally decided to establish abase in Diego Garcia.

The atoll is kept closedbecause environmental organizations —Unesco’s World Heritage Centre, which in-scribed it in 1982; the Seychelles IslandsFoundation (SIF), which has managed itsince 1979; and the more recent AldabraFoundation — want to maintain Aldabra asan example of a pristine atoll wilderness. Asa time capsule, or blueprint for evolution, itis of considerable scientific importance, ‘‘aperpetually observable storehouse of dataon biodiversity in a manner no longer possi-ble in much of the world,’’ according to theAldabra Foundation's mission statement.

Aldabra is special for Dr. Frauke Fleis-cher-Dogley, SIF’s chief executive officer, be-cause it ‘‘feels like a different planet,’’ one of

the few places where nature is not com-promised or affected by humans. Shenotes: ‘‘The ecosystem is still intact, andone can experience the feeling of a wholesystem, not only a handful of species in anotherwise degraded or heavily managedarea. One can almost feel the interactionsthere as they happen.’’

The atoll has three different marine envir-onments: its vast lagoon,the channels connectingthe lagoon with the IndianOcean, and the outer reefsalong the atoll. These coralreefs are home to sea

creatures of all varieties: dolphins, sharks,sponges, rays and crabs. The last survivingflightless bird indigenous to the IndianOcean, the Aldabra rail, is found only here.

These elements make Aldabra a poten-tially valuable example to other protectedmarine areas in determining precisely howmuch human presence and what types ofprotective strategies are required to sustainits unique biodiversity.

Maintaining the atoll is costly, however.Aldabra lies 1,200 kilometers (745 miles)away from the main island group of theSeychelles (population 80,000). A secondWorld Heritage site, the Vallée de Mai, is lo-cated in the main island group, which is an

The heart of a ‘‘Haute Horlogerie’’watch is its caliber — its mechanicalmovement. Since 1833, Jaeger-LeCoultre has created more than1,000 different calibers, including thesmallest movement, the thinnest andsome of the most complicated. Threehundred can be seen in its HeritageGallery, a museum where its famouswatches are on display.

Preserving the heritage of a craftis as important as conserving anatural wonder, and at Jaeger-LeCoultre headquarters, in the Valléede Joux near Geneva, this heritagegoes back to 1559. ‘‘That’s the year

the first LeCoultre — Pierre —settled,’’ explains Sebastian Vivas,Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house historianand curator of the Heritage Gallery.‘‘He brought a spirit that hasremained. There was somethingspecial about the people who cameto this isolated valley, cleared theland and developed the villages. Theywere pioneers. They masteredmetallurgy, then watchmaking,transforming the Vallée de Joux intothe prosperous place where theworld’s finest watches are made.’’

Vivas says this heritage givesJaeger-LeCoultre its special identity.

The Swiss manufacture’s inventorsand the competencies they passedon to succeeding generations are, hesays, directly connected to theculture of the Vallée de Joux. ‘‘Thefirst pioneers had to develop a do-it-yourself philosophy and find their ownsolutions,’’ Vivas says. ‘‘Today, thisremains because each model of awatch has its own movement, andeach is developed at the same timeas the watch. The inside and theoutside are made for each other. Thisharmony is one of the secrets of whatmakes a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch sospecial and so exclusive.’’

The 33rd Session of Unesco’sWorld Heritage CommitteeMeeting takes place in Seville,Spain, on June 22-30. Thisintergovernmental annual event,which convenes nearly 1,000people, is built around two mainthemes: nomination of new WorldHeritage sites, and review of thestate of conservation of sitesalready listed, including reportson 150 World Heritage sites.Review of the year’s activities,budget issues and future projectsare also on the agenda. Chairedby María Jesús San Segundo,Spain’s permanent delegate toUnesco, the committee consistsof representatives from 21signatories of the World HeritageConvention. For more information,visit http://whc.unesco.org

In the Vallée de Joux, a watchmaker preserves the heritage of craftsmanship

SPOTLIGHT | An isolated sanctuary

Aldabra Atoll: ‘Wonder of nature, given to humanity by the people of Seychelles’

EXPLORING | Another way of sharing heritage

Virtual tourism: A World Heritage site goes to the people

Annual meeting in Seville

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Aldabra Atoll is hometo more than 100,000

giant tortoises

M ost Unesco World Heritage sitesencourage tourism, but AldabraAtoll is an exception. Inhospitable

and remote, it is basically a no-go zone. Theatoll is 35 kilometers (25 miles) long and 15kilometers wide, but a mere one-20th of it isaccessible, and only two locations are opento visitors; what goes on there is researchand preservation work. The atoll is one ofnature’s crown jewels, however, and CarlosVejarano, founder of the Aldabra Foundation(www.aldabrafoundation.org), says, ‘‘Every-one can’t go, but I can bring it to you.’’

Vejarano has long been involved in envi-ronmental activities, such as high-mountainreforestation programs in Nepal. He recallshow he originally sought to make Aldabrabetter known. ‘‘I thought I could create sup-port by going out and asking people to con-tribute,’’ he says. ‘‘But that wasn’t working.Instead, I saw one needs to photograph theplace and do exhibits of it.’’ Exhibits, he says,are the perfect vehicle for creating aware-ness of this unusual spot. ‘‘Suddenly you’resharing this World Heritage site, but in an-other way. In this form, it can go to a lot ofpeople, especially children.’’

Realizing that neither the scientific impor-tance nor the wonders of Aldabra can be ad-equately described, Vejarano thought thepublic could get a good idea through a col-lection of the images, objects, sounds andsmells of the place. He put together an itin-erant exhibit, which went to The Hague in2006 and to Paris’s Natural History Mu-

seum last year (attracting 360,000 visitorsin five months). Its next stop could beMonaco’s Oceanography Museum, whichwould be fitting, since Jacques-Yves Cous-teau, the museum’s director for more than30 years, was one of the first to reveal tothe world the wonders of Aldabra, in the1950s. The exhibit celebrates Aldabra andfeatures an interactive model of the atollthat explains its uniqueness — everythingfrom the complicated riptides in its lagoon to

the vegetation that surrounds it. Soundsand smells are part of the show, as are mul-timedia programs, photos, tactile screensand games for children. There are replicasof its giant tortoises and a model reef. Chil-dren can send e-cards. The exhibit also tellsthe story of World Heritage and explains howAldabra was photographed for the exhibition— an undertaking not without hardship.Since the land is practically impenetrable,most of the filming had to be done in or onthe water.

Not many World Heritage sites can saythey tour with major, six-month shows at theworld’s top museums, but it is only throughphotos that most people can get to Aldabra.Vejarano is raising awareness — virtually —turning it into a World Heritage site that cancome to people.

‘‘Each person tries to find a way to help,’’says Vejarano. ‘‘I decided to photograph andmake exhibits, bringing Aldabra to people sowe all can share it.’’ Bringing humanity itsheritage, so people can all better appreciateit, has a message in itself, he points out.‘‘The exhibit has got people talking aboutAldabra,’’ he says, ‘‘and it is another way tomake them aware of the environment,aware that nature is us and is our heritage.’’He is particularly eager to target youngpeople. ‘‘Children see the exhibit, and begindeveloping an attitude that we have to caremore about our environment, that it has tobecome more sustainable. I think we needto go more in that direction.’’[

important tourist destination. Tourist reven-ues and entry fees are used by the SIF,which also manages the Vallée de Mai, tocover the cost of maintaining Aldabra. Thetwo sites’ survival are intimately linked. ‘‘Thisarrangement is practical,’’ says Marc Patry,a Unesco program specialist. ‘‘It ensuresthat Aldabra’s management costs arecovered. But it’s risky. Should somethinghappen to the tourism industry, or shouldthe Vallée de Mai no longer be an importantdestination, the whole model could fallapart.’’ The SIF, aware of this, is seekingways to diversify financing and reducecosts: renewable energy for Aldabra is onepossibility, notes Fleischer-Dogley.

Carlos Vejarano, a Spanish board mem-ber of the SIF, was behind the 2005 found-ing of the Aldabra Foundation (www.aldabrafoundation.org), a Geneva-based group thatsponsors research on the island, as well aseducational activities, such as an itinerantexhibit. To this end, it is helped by the

Seychelles’s people and government,whose environmental record, Vejaranosays, is admirable. ‘‘They have environment-ally aware people and programs, and thegovernment is behind them,’’ says Vejarano.‘‘Their leaders realize they belong to an inter-national community and are guardians ofsomething they gave to mankind 30 yearsago. They are Aldabra’s trustees. They’reproud of that and take their responsibilityseriously.’’ This awareness, he says, has be-come part of the Seychelles’s culture.

At one end of the atoll, a bronze plaque,standing on fossilized coral, reads: ‘‘Aldabra,wonder of nature, given to humanity by thepeople of Seychelles.’’ Vejarano says: ‘‘Of-ten when people get the World Heritage la-bel, they think, ‘They’re going to give ussomething.’ It creates expectations. What’scommendable about the Seychelles govern-ment and people is they see it another way.They have a real sense of taking care of theplace.’’[

Aldabra in images: Traveling exhibits are one wayof sharing the atoll with the world.

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Visit the Tides of Time Web site for videos, interviewsand more information on World Heritage marine sites:whc.unesco.org/tidesoftime/

THE HIGHEST WATCHMAKING FOR THE DEEPEST DIVING.

MASTER COMPRESSOR DIVING PRO GEOGRAPHIC.Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 979/1000®

A mechanical depth gauge with indication to 80 metres.Two patented compression keys for perfect waterresistance to 300 metres. Performance exceeds theprevailing NIHS norms. An automatic movement with ageographical function indicating world time.

HAVE YOU EVER WORN A REAL WATCH?

Jaeger-LeCoultre and UNESCO in partnership for conservationof World Heritage sites. A real commitment to a precious cause.www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

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World HeritageCentre

In partnership with

United NationsEducational, Scientific and

Cultural Organization