ajrakh printing
TRANSCRIPT
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Ajrakh Printing
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Ajrakh
Meghval and Sindhi Muslim women wear Ajrakh printed
Ghaghraand Odhna.
Ajrakhprinted fabrics are used as head-cloth or shoulder cloth
by MaldhariMuslims.
A red dominated Ajrakh Malir is preferred as a special
ceremonial cloth by Muslim grooms.
Products made in Ajrakhare: Bed Spreads Blankets Turbans or Shoulder Cloth for men Veils or Skirts for women
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Ajrakh
The borders are printed from left to right-always before the mainbody of fabric
Ajrakhprinting can be single Ekpuri or double sided Bepuri.
When the reverse side is printed, the process is carried out while thematerial is still damp, as fabric tend to shrink when it dries.
The Ajrakhis clearly distinguished from other block printing not only
by deep red and blue but also in its structuring of motifs.
Each motifs quarters is produced by an identical impression of the
block, the four parts coming together to form the whole motif.
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Fabric Processing
Washed with waterand soda ash
Steamed to soften
Soaped and washed
Dipped in mixture ofoils, twisted andkept overnight
Washed and dipped
in mixture of oil andsakunseeds(tamarisk)
Printing
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Printing Process
First Print - on the areas which are to be keptwhite. Asul or Asil(Asule-jo-pur)
Gum Mimosa arabica+ Lime + Alizarine
Second Print - Kot(Kot-jo-pur)Ferrous sulphate + Clay + Gum + Tamarind seeds
Syahi paste, which turns black on contact with alizarin, is used in the
second stage of printing.
Third Print - Khor- Resist Print (Khor-jo-pur)
Clay + Flour + Aluminium sulphate + Jaggery
All areas to be resisted for indigo are printed with gach, an alum
resist-mixed with mordant.
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Blocks
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Blocks
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Printing Process
Alizarine Dyeing
Indigo Dyeing
Dipping in water and fresh camel dung for 12
hours.
Washing with soda ash and caustic soda.
Minais done for second shade of blue using the
blocks Phulimade as star shaped or circularsimple motifs.
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Motifs in Ajrakh
Almond (Badam) Phul Millstone (Chakki)
Khajur - Date (Khorak) Peacock (Moru) Sweetmeat (Gileb) Jewel Box (Dabuli)
Love Affair (Ishq-Pench) Government Seal (Chalo Sarkari) Thi-hashe-jo-ajrakh
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