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TREND FORECASTER M N N The 1940 Influences & Transformation

1940´s Influences & Transformation


WWII World War II dates from 1939 to 1945, making it the largest war. It involved almost every part of the world, spreading over 30 countries. It is considered to be the bloodiest conflict and the deadliest war on history, having as result 50 million military and civilians losses.

Tank, 1942 London,1941

U.S Marines, 1942 Dive-‐bomber, Germany


There were a lot of fabrics in short supply like nylon, wool, silk & natural rubber, due to this, regulaMons restricMng clothing manufacture were created. No leather goods could be produced and nylon was exclusive for military use. L-‐85 RegulaMons restricted the quanMty of cloth that could be used, generaMng alteraMons on silhoueSes, styles and decoraMons.

Regulations

17 inch skirt length, 1942 Clothing RegulaMons WWD, 1942


Since men were enlisted and parMcipaMng in war, women had to fill their job posiMons in different industries, the most popular one were factories. This was a big change on the lifestyle and role of females, since they took a new role in society that provided them with more gender equality. Women working in factories covered her hair with turbans or wore snoods to protect their hair from geYng caught in the machinery.

Women at Work

Rosie the Riveter

40´s Propaganda promoMng Women on the Workforce


Film stars were the fashion trend seSers. Most of the movies from this period reflected a patrioMc theme. Males followed the style of Van Johnson (clean-‐cut American boy), and Spencer Tray (Rugged individualist). While females were influenced by June Allyson (boy hair look), and Veronica Lake (Peek a boo hairstyle).

Movies

Movie, 1939 June Allyson Van Johnson


Nazi occupaMon on Paris lasted from 1940-‐1944, due to this some couturiers like Chanel closed their business during war, while others like Elsa Schiaparelli went to U.S. Access to French designers was cut due to war and the majority of the populaMon had to create its own style, while the rich minority didn't’t suffered any change.

French Designers

Place Blanche, 1940

Chanel Shop, 1940


Since access to French designers was cut, American designers were featured on Vogue & Harpers Bazaar magazines. The highest priced fashions were elaborated here. The most popular designers from this period were: Claire McCardell, Adrian, Norman Norell, and Pauline Trigère. American designers earned an important place ajer war since they shown what they were capable of doing.

American Designers

Vogue America, 1940 Adrian Suit, 1940

Norman Norell

Pauline Trigère


Famous warMme designer that established the “American Look” and pioneered the casual sportswear. Her designs were radical but she gained popularity among women due to their comfort. Famous for designing the popover dress, draped bathing suit, railroad-‐sMtched denim, and string Med empire line dress. Thanks to her, matching separates, monasMc dress, ballet slippers, and the poncho, became popular.

Claire McCardell

Popo

ver d

ress, 1942

Bathing Suit, 1942

Even

ing gown, 1939

Claire McCardell, 1940


In 1944 a exhibit of miniature mannequins with latest french couture Sent to US created by the Chambre Syndicale to convince the world that couture was ready to provide leadership & raise funds for war relief.

Théâtre a la Mode

ExhibiMon, 1944

1944 1944

1944


Women undergarments were designed in order to emphasize the curves of their figures. Lingerie of this period was projected by the pin-‐up girls that were pictured in glamorous, curvy, saMn and lace pieces. Brassieres were made of printed calico duo to the shortage of broadcloth.

Women Curves 40´s Publicity

40´s Publicity

40´s Magazine Cover


Due to the restricMons, the late 30`s styles were “frozen”. By the beginning of war, skirts became fuller and grew shorter (ending below the knee), shoulders broadened, and pads were inserted. Bias cut was rarely used. DayMme silhoueSes were feminine and sojly skimmed the body.

Wartime Style

DayMme Dress, 1944

WarMme Fashion

Propaganda

DayMme Dress, 1942


Coats from this period are loosely fiSed and have ranglan or dolman style sleeves. They are characterized by their large collars and the padding on the shoulders. Fur coats were very popular and the famous trench coat was created due to military influence.

Popular Coats

Propaganda

Trench Coat, 1940 Wool coat, 1940 Cu

rvy coat, 1944

1942


They were inspired by menswear but were closely fiSed to the waist and had large collars. Bolero suits had short, curving jackets above the waist. Eisenhower jackets were also seen, they had military influence and were named ajer a commander; they had a fiSed belt at the waist. Coats were also worn in order to complement them.

Women Suits

Woman Suits, 1940

1942

1942

1942

1942


Hats were considered and important accessory for ladies, the most popular ones were the stocking cap, the flower hat with face veil & the hat with one-‐side look. Small pillboxes and bonnets were also used. Hair rollers were also used in order to create the pompadour hairstyle.

Trendy Hats

Hairstyle, 1940 Feathered Hat, 1941

Propaganda 40´s Pillbox Hat

1942

1942


Leather shoes were raMoned due to the short supply of this material, due to this new materials were used. The most popular materials and styles for shoes in this period are the following: jungle cloth with fleece lining, gabardine oxfords, gabardine opened toe, plaoorm soled shoe

New Heels

1940´s Pumps

1940´s

1942

1940´s

1940´s

1940´s

1940´s


Sports were also a big influence over fashion since a lot of clothes used to pracMce sports were also used for leisure. Women used blouses and pullovers with decoraMve paSerns, and matched short sleeve sweaters with long sleeved cardigans. Men wore white shorts and knit tennis shirts. Bathing trunks were used only on the 40´s

Sportswear

Propaganda

Magazine

Catalogue


Men fashion styles were not much altered since most of the Mme they wore war uniforms. The silhoueSes remained almost the same as in previous years, and men in civilian clothing were ojen dressed in lounge suits with broad shoulders and wide trousers belted high at the abdomen. English tailoring conMnued to be the best.

Men´s Fashion

English Tailored Suit, 1940

English Tailored Suit, 1942 Tailor Shop, 1940


Sack Suits remained as the style for every occasion, all its pieces matched in color and fabric. Due to fabric shortages and regulaMons on the use of cloth, jackets became shorter, and patch pockets and double breast vests were eliminated. Zoot suits became popular and were worn with oversized trousers and wide shouldered long jackets. Tailcoats and tuxedos were exclusive for formal occasions.

Fashionable Suits

1940´s Men's Suits

Single Breasted Suit, 1945

1940 Man Suits


Oxford shoes became the most popular style and they were worn with colorful stockings. Due to the scarce in leather there was a shortage on shoes and tennis. Galoshes and rubbers were closed with zippers, which was now broadly used in clothing. Sunglasses were first manufactured for the army and later became popular among civilians.

Men´s Accessories

1940´s Men's Suits

Oxford Shoe, 1940

Propaganda

40´s Acessories Catalog


Some men's clothes were influenced by military designs. Styles with this influence are the Pea Jackets with a double breast, this were influenced by the American Sailors. BaSle jackets are another military style, they were short in length and had an aSached belt.

Military Essence

1940 1940 1942


Jackets and wide trousers were combined but didn't’t matched, they had contrasMng colours and fabrics. Also the tweed jacket and bush jacket made with short sleeves, were used to complement this causal look.

Casual Look

1940´s Men´s Fashion


Carolina Herrara Resort 2015 collecMon shows the silhoueSe and style of the day dresses of the 40´s, bringing back the essence of this period with her designs. All the dresses have a length above the knee, full skirts, and emphasis on the waist by a belt or a lace. Also they are really feminine and sojly skimmed the body.

Runway Dress

Carolina Herrera, Resort 2015


This four ouoits are from different designers, but from the same season, A/W 14. They all show a military influence starMng for the use of olive and khaki shades. Also on the first picture a coat with the 40´s silhoueSe its shown, followed by a jacket that has a Eisenhower style and made out of leather that was probably inspired by aviators, the same can be seen on the last picture. The 3rd ouoit looks exactly as a military uniform, the cut and silhoueSe of the jackets and the pants are clearly a replica into a modern ouoit.

Military Runway

Calvin Klein A/W14 Richard James A/W14 Dior Homme A/W14


This five trench-‐coats are form Burberry Porsum, Resort 2015 collecMon. Trench-‐coats were an important garment from this period since they were created. Some of them show military influence which is normal, since their creaMon was inspired by this. They are all knee lenghtand have the waist accentuated by a belt, they have large collars and padding on the shoulder, which were typical from the period. Except for coat 2 and 5 that have degraded colours, the rest show colours that were popular on the period.

Trench Coat Runway

Burberry Porsum, Resort 2015


This women coat from Dolce & Gabanna its the perfect example of the silhoueSes of this garment from this period. It is more fiSed on the top and has the waist accentuated, it has two rows of buSons and a fuller skirt with knee length.

Outwear Runway

Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2014

This women suit from Dolce & Gabanna its the perfect example of the silhoueSes. The skirt its straight, with a pencil shape, and knee length. The jacket is closely fiSed specially on the waist and has a large collar.

Suit Runway

Dolce & Gabbana F/W 2014


References Research: •  n.a. Mens 1940 Fashion. Vintage Dancer Blog, 2011. Web. 9 Dec. 2014. <hSp://

www.vintagedancer.com/1940s/a-‐1940s-‐men-‐suit-‐style-‐guide/> •  n.a. 1940 Woman Drss & Stryle. Glamour Daze Blog, 21 May 2012. Web. 9 Dec. 2014. <hSp://

glamourdaze.com/2012/05/easy-‐guide-‐to-‐a-‐1940s-‐womans-‐dress-‐and-‐style.html> •  Tortora, Phylilis and Keith Eubank. Survey of Historic Costume. 5TH. New York: Fairchild Books, 2010.

eBook. •  Victoria and Albert Museum. 1940 Fashion. Victoria and Albert Museum Official Webpage, 2014. Web 15

November 2014. < hSp://www.vam.ac.uk/users/node/3507> Pictures: •  hSp://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/648813/World-‐War-‐II •  hSp://www.thelindycharmschoolforgirls.com/did-‐someone-‐say-‐scandal-‐no-‐just-‐melbournes-‐hemlines-‐

during-‐the-‐1940s/ •  hSp://www.pinterest.com/pin/42643527692774272/ •  hSp://www.cineforever.com/2010/07/16/june-‐allyson-‐sus-‐peliculas/ •  hSp://www.otherfocus.com/wwii-‐recruiMng-‐poster-‐campaign/ •  hSp://hellogiggles.com/your-‐princess-‐is-‐no-‐longer-‐in-‐another-‐castle/hg_week-‐3-‐wwii-‐posters •  hSp://www.findadeath.com/forum/showthread.php?15520-‐Van-‐Johnson/page2 •  hSp://www.imdb.com/Mtle/S0031381/ •  hSp://hair-‐and-‐makeup-‐arMst.com/womens-‐1940s-‐makeup/ •  hSp://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-‐of-‐art/C.I.45.71.2ab


•  hSp://plumageplume.blogspot.com/2012/04/theatre-‐del-‐la-‐mode.html •  hSp://www.1940s-‐fashion.com/about-‐1940s-‐lingerie-‐underwear-‐bras-‐corset-‐girdle-‐slips/ •  hSp://glamourdaze.com/2013/02/1940s-‐fashion-‐spring-‐frock-‐parade.html •  hSp://www.pinterest.com/pin/261068109620899653/ •  hSp://www.mintagevintage.com/fashion/how-‐date-‐vintage-‐clothing-‐1940s/ •  hSps://www.etsy.com/lisMng/102630270/1940s-‐mccall-‐sewing-‐paSern-‐trench-‐coat •  hSp://theonlineediMon.blogspot.com/2012/10/armed-‐for-‐fashion.html •  hSp://www.fashion-‐era.com/hats-‐hair/hats_hair_9_hairstyles_history_1940_1945.htm •  hSp://myvintagevogue.com/gallery/index.php?level=picture&id=1197 •  hSp://fashionpreSyrabbit.blogspot.com/2011/09/fashion-‐1940.html •  hSp://balMmoreshoeseum.com/onlinemuseum/category/womens-‐shoes/1940s-‐womens-‐

shoes/ •  hSp://www.fashionima.com/war-‐fashion-‐of-‐1940s.html •  hSp://www.1940s-‐fashion.com/1940s-‐mens-‐suits/ •  hSp://www.retrowaste.com/1940s/fashion-‐in-‐the-‐1940s/1940s-‐fashion-‐for-‐men-‐boys/ •  hSp://www.thelifenostalgic.com/how-‐to-‐dress-‐1940s-‐style-‐for-‐him/ •  hSp://www.vogue.com/slideshow/857862/carolina-‐herrera-‐resort-‐2015-‐runway/#18 •  hSp://www.fashionbeans.com/2014/mens-‐aw14-‐military-‐trend-‐how-‐to-‐wear/ •  hSp://thebesoashionblog.com/womens-‐fashion/marc-‐cain-‐spring-‐summer-‐2015 •  hSp://www.vogue.com/slideshow/858394/boSega-‐veneta-‐fall-‐2013-‐runway/#33 •  hSp://fashiontribes.typepad.com/fashion/2014/05/in-‐the-‐trenches-‐with-‐burberry-‐prorsum-‐

resort-‐2015-‐an-‐apocalyMcal-‐fashion-‐tribe-‐podcast-‐ep104.html

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