AdvantagesLightweight - few ounces versus a pound or more Simplicity - just add fuel and light a match - no pumping, priming or pre-lighting required Reliable - many designs are fail-proof Quiet - generally can't be heard Odorless - if you spill alcohol all over your gear, you won't smell like a gas pump for the rest of your trip Availability of Fuel - can be found at any hardware store or gas station (great for thru-hikers) No Maintenance - no time or repair kit need for adjustments and cleaning Safety - fuel not explosive and can be easily extinguished Easily Transportable Fuel - don't need a heavy metal container to transport fuel - a disposable plastic water bottle is more than ample Low Cost - the cheapest around or even free (use common recycled items) Eco Friendly - uses a clean renewable energy source DIY (Do It Yourself) - Tools, metal and fire!  DIY stoving is so satisfying that is has become it's own hobby  Disadvantages Reduced Output - about half the heat output per ounce compared to other liquid fuels (white gas, butane, etc) and not appropriate for groups, long treks (greater than a one to two weeks without refitting) or melting snow  Invisible Flame - refilling with fuel or handling the stove can be dangerous to those that depend solely on the sense of sight for evaluating dangers Cold Sensitive - most setups depend on vaporization of fuel and may not work well in frozen environments Lacks Brand Name - North Face wearing, Mountain House eating, Starbucks drinking, Honda Element driving "outdoors people" will refer to you as "ghetto" and/or "trailer park" Durability - if you step on your stove made from pop cans, you might have to say goodbye to hot meals for the rest of your trip DIY (Do It Yourself) - Many of the stove designs out there require you to fabricate your own setup which can prove to be challenging or inconvenient for many 

Burner Construction Introduction 

These instructions walk you through the basics common to most alcohol jet stoves made of aluminum drink cans (6oz V-8, 8oz/12oz drink, larger beer cans, etc.).  You have many options and may set up a stove in many different functional configurations.  With some ingenuity, in lieu of drink cans, you may substitute aluminum food cans, Sterno cans, air freshener cans and whatever else you can find to make stoves that are better suited for your needs/preferences.  Steel cans also work and are much more durable but are also heavier, rust and take longer to heat up.   For more information on different design options visit Zen and the Art of the Alcohol Stove and the Templates page. The instructions on the following pages may be used for identically sized cans (i.e. two bottoms from 12oz cans, a top and a bottom from a 12oz can, etc) but there are several can combinations that allow you to slide one can over the other. 

Larger Narrower12oz aluminum drink can (tight fit)

BudweiserLipton’s Ice TeaMountain DewMug Root Beer

PepsiSierra Mist

Sliceetc.

14.9 oz Guinness (Original, Draught, Draught Bitter)Young's Double Chocolate

John Smiths (Extra Smooth, Original Bitter and Smooth Bitter)Boddington's (Pub Ale and Draught Beer)

Beamish Irish StoutCaffrey’s Irish Ale

Murphy’s (Stout, Irish Stout and Draught Stout)Stone Bitter

Tetley Draught BitterWorthingtons Draught Bitter

Newcastle Brown Ale8.3oz Red Bull 5.5oz V8

2 5/8oz Sterno (loose fit)4oz Del Monte Can Fruit (Steel-tight fit)

3oz Cat foodHormel Spam Spread

etc.7oz cat food

chip dip24oz Heineken25.4oz Fosters

5.5oz V8 (tight fit)8.3oz Red Bull (easy fit)

6oz Tomato Paste (unridged tin can such as Hunts) (Steel)4.5oz Toast Toppers (Steel)

etc.12oz Drink 10 3/4oz Soup (Steel)

4oz Mushrooms (Steel)etc.

15 1/4oz Soup (Steel)11oz Mandarin Oranges (Steel)

24oz BeerArizona Drink

12oz drink 18oz Elements Energy Drink (very thick)3oz Steel can with ridged bottom

Underwood Deviled HamBumblebee tuna

103/4oz Soup can (Steel)3oz Tuna can with rounded bottom

12oz Pepsi One 12oz Dr. Pepper Special note - aluminum cans have a sprayed on layer of heat-cured protective coating (inside and outside of can) that will slowly burn off over time.  This will leave brown stains on and in your stove after use and will emit a toxic smelling vapor that  may cause a burning sensation in the lungs and/or eyes of some people.  Most people don't care or notice the burning smell, but some do.  If you would like to avoid

this altogether, remove the clear coating and paint from all parts with sandpaper, steel wool and/or SOS pads prior to assembly.

Step 1 - JetsNote:  If you are making a Chimney or Low Pressure Sideburner stove, go to Step 2c. Note - if you are planning on stretching and fitting the top stove section over the bottom section, (this looks better but is slightly more difficult to do and you are more likely to shove epoxy or RTV into your jets), you might want to cut your can down and stretch it prior to drilling holes as it is less likely to become stuck and/or crushed in the stretching process if there are no holes in your top section (skip to Step 3 - Trimming and through the stretching process of Step 4 and return here). As far as jet size goes, there is a lot of variability and debate as far as jet size and configuration goes.  If you really interested in determining the difference in various configurations, peruse though the list of stoves Links and visit supplies page dealing with jets.  Here are some debatable generalizations.-

the smaller the hole the higher the pressure and possibly better the air fuel mixture (better efficiency and performance) but the easier it is put out the flame (either by a little wind or by a self induced blow-out from an excessively powerful jet).  Jets made with a #74 drill or needle are popular for pressurized stoves such as Don Johnston's Photon Stove.  Using extremely small  jet holes, such as those made with a #80 drill, may require a special configuration that enables relighting, or just a greater number of jets so that they are close enough to relight each other..

the larger the hole - possibly the poorer the efficiency, but better the dependability of the flame and the better it is at lighting/relighting jets adjacent to it.  Holes made with a #57 drill or push pin or larger are also a better choice if you choose to burn rubbing alcohol, poor quality fuel or in inclement weather where everything gets drenched.

 As far as jet height for sideburner stoves goes-

jet height becomes very important for sideburner stoves. Sideburner stoves either need enough ventilation to work as an open flame stove or be able to counter the cooling effect of your pot and keep the stove at operating temperatures.

the lower the jets are on the side of the stove, the hotter the stove will be as the flames will heat the sides of the stove above the jets.

the higher the jets are on the side of the stove, the greater the full capacity of the stove, but less reliable the flame.

A good start point of jet position is around 15mm (5/8") from the top of the stove.Determine how many and how you would like to configure your jets.  A template can help you evenly space your holes. 

 

Jets can also be angled in or out or even placed on the side of the can (15mm or more below the top of the stove will allow you to use the stove as a pot stand once the side jets fire up).

            Anywhere from 24 to 32 evenly spaced holes should work.  If you don't have your own magic number, a pattern of 24 evenly spaced holes angled straight up in a circle around the outer rim is a good one to start with (picture on left above).

Step 2 - Fuel Port Decide what type of alcohol stove you want to construct (see Alcohol Stove Types for more information):

Open Jet stove - go to Step2a   - these are very simple to light (don't require priming) and are easier to simmer with.

 or  Hybrid Sideburner Jet stove - go to Step2a   - these are a little more difficult to light and are

difficult to simmer with.  They are made with jets on their sides and the stove doubles as their own pot stand.  A primer pan isn't needed, but would help ease lighting.

or  Pressurized Jet stove - go to Step 2b   - these tend to burn hotter, boil faster and are more fuel

efficient.  You'll need a primer pan and simmering isn't always possible. or 

Chimney and Low Pressure Sideburner stove - go to Step2c   - these tend to be similar in design and may be more reliable than stoves with jets.  These may or may not need priming, depending on design.

or  Open Flame stove - read Step2a, Step 2b and Step2c for basic concepts   - these tend to be

more reliable than other alcohol stove designs and vary widely in fuel efficiency.  There're so many variations of these stoves that stove makers are only limited by their imaginations and fabrication skills.  For ideas, browse through the various stove pages on this site as well as many of the stove designs linked to on the Links page.

 

Step 2a Open Jet Stove Note:

If you are making a Pressurized Jet Stove - skip this subsection and go to Step 2b.  If you are making a Chimney stove - skip this subsection and go to Step2c. If you are making a Low Pressure Sideburner stove - skip this subsection and go to Step2c.

 Center Hole Construction - You will need a large central opening for filling your fuel and for preheating your stove.  See How Stoves Work for more information. Note - This is easier to do with a can that hasn't been cut down yet.  If you have already cut down your can (in order to stretch it) you can lightly fit it over another can (try not to force it on and get it stuck) to protect the easily bendable sides of the can.

Basics Hobby Knife Method - Cut out the center section by running a utility knife around and around the inner base of the circular ridge.  At a certain point, you will be able to press the center section out with your thumb or back of the knife.

Poke Method - carefully scribe around about two revolutions with a hobby knife (though a utility knife might be more durable) and very carefully start a cut with the tip of your hobby knife about 1-2mm at a time, until the center depression is ready to be pushed out with the back of the knife handle.   Note - if you are not skilled with a hobby knife or this method, there is be a good chance that you might push the knife blade through your other hand.  This method is not recommend unless you are quite skilled with your knife.

   

Hole Saw Method - Another method is to use a 1 3/4 inch hole saw for 12oz drink cans.  This doesn't give as clean a cut as a good scribe line from a blade, especially if you use a power drill, but it is much faster and easier.  If your saw fits snuggly in the depression (remove guide drill if attached) and twist by hand.  If it's too loose or tight, you may drill a guide hole (template may help you center a mark for a hole) in the center of the depression and carefully drill out the center with a power drill (should only be done by persons trained and experienced with power tools and techniques). Note - different brands of cans have different inner rim diameters and hole saws may also slightly vary in size.  Coke cans generally have larger center sections than Pepsi cans and are more suitable for use with a 1 3/4 inch hole saw.

 

 

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Sand and smooth out your new hole with sandpaper, steel wool or SOS pads (the cut edges may be razor sharp). Inner Wall Construction - Cut a rectangle out of the sidewall of a can to at least 180mm by 40mm (for stoves made of 12oz drink cans).  Print a copy of the template, cut out the inner wall template and tape it to your aluminum sheet.  Cut out your piece.  Make weep holes by using a hole punch to punch out the three evenly spaced 2.5mm notches on your bottom edge.  Alternately, you may make two cuts 2-3mm apart and bend the notches toward the outside of the tube to form your three weep holes. Note: 

The template works on most popular cans, but ideally, you should check fit prior to epoxying, and adjust as necessary. 

If you are using different dimensions for your stove (to make it taller or shorter), make sure that the inner wall is at least 10mm taller than the height of the top section (or the section that will be fitted inside the other) for a snug fit.  If the inner wall is too short and easily moves, your stove won't work.

 

 

Step 2b Pressurized Jet Stove Note:

If you are building an Open Jet stove and have already made your fuel port, skip this subsection and Proceed to Step 3.  

If you are building an Hybrid Sideburner stove and have already made your fuel port, skip this subsection and Proceed to Step 3.  

If you are making a Chimney or Low Pressure Sideburner stove - skip this subsection and go to Step2c.

 Unless you are using a can that easily opens and seals shut (shoe polish, round candy tin, Sterno can, etc.) to allow for filling with fuel, a small sealable fuel port hole is needed with pressurized jet stoves.  Sealing it is necessary to maximize pressure in the stove, avoid wasteful leaks and to prevent the possibility of ignition of fuel inside the stove. NOTE - Because of the size of this hole - too small to safely vent and too large to work safely as a jet - it must be covered before lighting your stove.  If not, it has the potential to blow apart your stove. 

 Drill out a hole centered in the concave depression of your can.  The size of your hole depends on the method you choose to use to seal it (see below)  You may want to start with a small hole and enlarge it with a round file or rasp, as larger bits may have problems staying true on the rounded surface of your stove.  A hole may also be drilled by twisting the bit with your fingers or by using a hobby knife to enlarge a small hole (drilled or from a hammer, nail and wood dowel).  A Unibit also works well at making and enlarging holes in thin metal.

 Clean out any burrs with a file, hobby knife, sandpaper, or steel wool.  There are many methods to seal the fuel port hole.  See the Pressuring Supplies page for a list of some of the many hardware options.

 

→Spring from back portion of ballpoint pen

  Self Closing Method - Cut a horizontal slot (the thinner the better) at the midpoint of your screw

and find a metal spring that will slide easily over your screw and is too big for your filler hole.  Slide your screw through the hole, slide the spring over your screw and epoxy a threaded nut (and washer if needed) on the end of your screw.   

→Spring/Screw assembly not to scale

 The spring should hold the screw in the closed position.  To fill with fuel, pull the screw halfway out and and lock the slot on the edge of the hole (this should allow enough of an opening for easy fuel filling).  When you have finished filling your stove, unhook your screw so that it pulls itself closed.   If you like, you may also grind a notch into the top of your screw to mark which side the your slot is.

  

  

Threaded Rivet Method - Use a #8 threaded rivet to seal your hole. Optionally, you may roughen up the inner surface of the stove and rivet and add a thin layer of high temperature epoxy or silicone to help seal the rivet.

 

 Ball chain coupling

 Mounts for chain cut from aluminum flashing. 

Circumferential groove ground into neck of screw in lieu of using a nut.  Chain from bead shop.

 Optionally, you may add a chain (ball chain, id tag chain or jewelry chain) to secure your screw.  To do so - rivet a ball chain coupling to your fuel port hole with a threaded rivet (or with a regular rivet in the vicinity of your screw hole), use a nut to attach a chain coupling to your screw, and connect them with metal ball chain.  If you intentionally epoxy the nut on your screw with a small gap, the coupler will be able to rotate freely and not bind when you rotate the screw. 

 

View of inside 

Expoxyied Nut Method - Clean out any burrs with a file, hobby knife, sandpaper, or steel wool.  Roughen up your nut and the area around the hole on the inside of the can (you really should take it down to bare metal with sandpaper as show in the image above), then clean with alcohol.  After testing the hole with your screw, epoxy (RTV is not recommended in lieu of epoxy here) the nut with some J-B Weld and set up your can so that your bolt doesn't fall out before the epoxy hardens. Wait five hours, carefully test to see if the bolt will thread or not.  If it doesn't, try to fix it or start over.  You may later need to retap the threads of your nut or rivet after the epoxy has completely hardened.

Step 2c Chimney and Low Pressure Sideburner Stove Note:

If you are building an Open Jet, Hybrid Sideburner, or Pressurized Jet stove  and have already made your fuel port, skip this subsection and Proceed to Step 3.

 

 There are many variations of Chimney and Low Pressure Sideburner stoves.  Many of these designs have a large exhaust port on the top of the stove and smaller air ventilation ports (which transition to exhaust ports for sideburner stoves) around the perimeter of the stove. There are several techniques to make an appropriate sized exhaust port on top of the stove. 

Large Drill Bit Method - Best result may be made with a drill press and a tapered bit such as a Unibit.  Your hole may need cleaning up with sandpaper, steel wool or an SOS pad. A template or washer may help you center your hole.  

Hole Saw Method  - How saws can be a bit rough, but may just need some touching up with sandpaper, steel wool and/or an SOS pad. A template or washer may help you center your hole.

  

Score and Cut Method  - If you have a steady hand, you can score a nice round circle centered on the top of your stove and carefully pop out the exhaust hole.  Your hole may need cleaning up with sandpaper, steel wool or an SOS pad.

 An appropriately sized (25-40mm) template, coin (US quarter to half dollar size), washer, etc will help guide a nice round circle.  Either tape on your guide, or clamp it on with a C-clamp.  A compass with a scriber is also a great tool for scoring true circles 

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Since you may want a relatively small upper opening to control your flame, you may need a starter tear to aid in hole cutting.  After you have a good circular score line marking the area you would like to remove (shown in blue above), make a second score line (shown in red above) spiraling into the center of the area to be removed.  Either drill a hole or puncture the center with a knife so that it connects with the second score line (shown in red above).  With the tip of a dull hobby knife, carefully press the inside of the score line starting at your hole so that the score line begins to tear (you may need to help it with a little cut).  Follow along the entire score line and once your reach the very end, carefully pull the remainder off without twisting it. 

Step 3 - TrimmingThe measurements of 2cm (bottom) and 3cm (top) work, but you can lengthen or shorten these measurements to make taller or shorter stoves or to move the overlap point up or down.  Just make sure to adjust the width of your inner wall if you are using one.

Marking Method - Take a card, square piece of sheet metal (flashing scrap from pot stand) or block of wood and poke or drill two holes in it, one at 2cm and one at 3cm from the bottom edge.  You can use a card template (template is designed to be printed with Internet Explorer or Paint and other image programs may print magnified images) to mark your card. 

Examples marking at the 3cm height 

Set the can you've been working on upright (bottom of can down) and place the card next to it.  Use a pen, pin, tack, needle, etc. in the 3cm (top section) hole to mark the can as you carefully rotate it one or two revolutions.  Do the same with a different can at 2cm (bottom section).

  

Step 4 - AssemblyNow you must decide how you will put the two cans together.  Before you start, ensure that the inside of the wider (or soon to be wider) section and the outside of the narrower section are roughened up with fine sandpaper or steel wool.  The edges of the top and bottom sections should be clean and smooth if you want them to fit together without any problems.  SOS pads and water work great for smoothing/polishing rough edges. One important trick is to bring the edge of a wider section just slightly over the narrower section and tape it there, then carefully get the rest of the wider section over the narrower one.  A shim made of a short length of aluminum from the side of a can with a rounded and polished tip may be required to accomplish this.

 

  Stretching - (see dilator tool) You can stretch the bottom can by forcing an unopened can

straight down into your bottom section 1-2 times.  The pressure of the trapped air in the section you are stretching should force it right off on its own.  Should it become stuck, the easiest way to remove a stuck can from your stretcher is by heating it just a bit with a butane torch - it should pop right off (don't blow yourself up or start your house on fire!).  Other options include using cooking oil for lube, grabbing with rubber gloves and nudging the edge of your stove piece with the rolled edge of a tin (such as a Altoids Tangerine Sours lid). For an easier less problematic fit, you may want to cut out another bottom (or trimmed down top) slightly longer than the bottom you want to stretch, cut off its bottom ridge (optional) and force it on the full can with vegetable oil to make a wider diameter tool (you shouldn't need a shim during assembly). 

  OR Then Note - You should only try stretching prior to making any holes in the part you want stretched as pressure from the trapped air will help you remove the stretched part.  Woe is the person who has invested a great deal of time cutting and drilling a stove part to end up with it stuck to another can or crushed in an attempt to pull it off.  If you are stretching the top section of an open jet stove and decide to cut out the large center hole prior to stretching, you may want to use two protected fingers as a hook in the center hole to slowly nudge the stove up off of your stretcher tool little by

little (hope you did a good job of smoothing out that razor sharp edge).  Grabbing your stove and trying to force it off frequently results in a crushed handful of aluminum. Optional - An empty can filled with plaster of Paris may be used in lieu of an unopened can.  This gives you a safer option for using heat from a stove top or torch and to provide a firm support for stretched can bottoms that need other modifications.  It can also be heated without exploding  

Dangerous Advanced Heating Technique - If you heat a can bottom pressed onto another can without a hole in it, you can expect it to pop off like a champagne cork.  This may be used in your favor if you would like to intentionally use heat to assist in removal of a stuck can bottom (slowly and lightly heat with a butane torch while holding your hand above the can bottom), otherwise a pressure relief hole is required in either the stretcher tool or the part being stretched.   NOTE:  Use of an unopened can with heat is not recommended as the built up pressure in the can may cause it to explode (but will most likely just invert the bottom depression with a sudden and frightening POP! before exploding).  If you are using the heating technique, either use an empty can or one filled with plaster. Use a gas stove or torch to heat your assembly until the coloring of the can begins to fade, you see smoke, or you smell it burning (the transparent coating on and in your can will brown, smoke and eventually burn off if heated long enough).  Once you reach this point, run some cold water over your hot can which should now be permanently stretched (about equal to cold stretching with one additional can layer).  If you cannot remove your can section from your tool, repeat this step until you are able to so so.  Don't burn yourself, or your house down, in the process.   Don't overheat your parts as this will weaken your stove.  

Slits - You may cut 8 evenly spaced vertical slits in the side of the bottom (as shown below) or top section (which would be less likely to leak if you do a poor job of sealing).  Cut from the edge to as far as your cans will overlap or max to about 3mm from the shoulder of the can.  Placing the slits on the bottom section, compared to having them on the top section, decreases the likelihood that the sealing epoxy will ignite from the flames (especially if you make a Side Burner stove). You may need a shim to help line everything up just right.

 Options -

o Slits on outside - You are less likely to damage/deform your two sections by sliding the slitted section over the unslitted section.  This does require more sealer and may be less esthetically appealing if you are sloppy with epoxy.

o Slits on inside - Done right, forcing the slitted section into the unslitted section may provide you with a exopyless seal (sealer still recommended) but may deform and/or cut the outside section.  Best results are when the outside section is made from steel or thick aluminum.

  

Crimping (Not Recommended) - If you want to try putting two similar can bottoms together without stretching, use a crimper (see templates) to make smooth crimps around the edge of your bottom section causing the edge to bevel inwards and allow it to tightly slip into the top section. 

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Once you get the bottom section started into the top, you may use a block of wood and a hammer to carefully tap around the bottom section until it is seated where you would like it in the top section.  If at any time the side wall of your bottom section folds or crimps, creating a potential leak, give up and make a new bottom section.  Soapy water may help ease assembly.  Done right, you don't need any sealant, but it wouldn't hurt.  The long term seal of this system after the stove has been heated and cooled repeatedly is questionable. 

  Top Section Height12oz can -7mm*6oz can -3mm*  *Compared to inner wall height

 This technique works best if the outer can section overlaps the inner can section all the way to the point where the sidewall of the inner can starts to curve inward.  The area where the sidewall starts to curve is sturdy enough to support the pressure from the unstretched can without creating a undesirable fold and causing a leak.

  

Rounding (Not Recommended) - Similar to the crimping technique, you shape the edge of the bottom section to allow it to slip into the top section.  Place many many inward bends (give the slightest little bend inwards with your thumb and forefinger or needle nose pliers and avoid making sharp bends that will cut the other section when you slide it over) on the edge of your bottom section causing the edge to round and allow it to tightly slip into the top section.  Use a file to remove any sharp protrusions that might cut the top section. 

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Once you get the bottom section started into the top, you may use a block of wood and a hammer to carefully tap around the bottom section until it is seated where you would like it in the top section.  If at any time the side wall of your bottom section folds or crimps, creating a potential leak, give up and make a new bottom section.  Soapy water may help ease assembly.  Done right, you don't need any sealant, but it wouldn't hurt.  The long term seal of this system after the stove has been heated and cooled repeatedly is questionable.

 This technique works best if the outer can section overlaps the inner can section all the way to the pont where the sidewall of the inner can starts to curve inward.  The area where the sidewall starts to curve is sturdy enough to support the pressure from the unstretched can without creating a undesirable fold and causing a leak.

  

Cupping (Not Recommended) - you may stretch the first 2mm of the top section over an unopened can, a double can stretcher or a cup with a rounded bottom to widen the lip just enough to start the bottom section in top section. 

 

→Very carefully and evenly push the bottom section in until it is set where you would like it.  You may need to tap around the edge of the bottom section to get it where you want it.  If at any time the side wall of your bottom section folds or crimps, creating a potential leak, give up and make a new bottom section.  Soapy water may help ease assembly.  Done right, you don't need any sealant, but it wouldn't hurt.  The long term seal of this system after the stove has been heated and cooled repeatedly is questionable. This technique works best if the outer can section overlaps the inner can section all the way to the pont where the sidewall of the inner can starts to curve inward.  The area where the sidewall starts to curve is sturdy enough to support the pressure from the unstretched can without creating a undesirable fold and causing a leak.

  

Inverted Bottom Compression Fitting (Not Recommended) - Trim down a bottom of one can so that just a small portion is left of the sidewall adjacent to the shoulder of the can.  Take your other can and press it over the inverted bottom as shown in the picture below.  Done right, you don't need any sealant, but it wouldn't hurt to add some.  The long term seal of this system after the stove has been heated and cooled repeatedly is questionable.  Denting of the exposed edge may also cause a leak. This method is based on Scott Marquardt's Convex Top Coke Stove.

 

 This option has its applications, such as for tops of open vented/chimney stoves where the top gets too hot for JB Weld or High Temperature RTV, and where an airtight seal isn't absolutely necessary. If you would like to keep the two stove sections together without them slipping, you can try a sealant to glue them together or carefully poke a couple of holes with a pushpin through where the two sidewalls come together.

  

  Wick (Optional) -Some folks opt to add fiberglass insulation, perlite or something similar between the inner and outer wall of their stoves.  This helps soak up fuel and decreases the amount of fuel spilled when the stove is tipped over.  Depending on how the wick is used it can increase vaporization of alcohol or decreases it.  A wick does affect the performance of a open flame stove, but is very questionable for jet stoves that are closed off.  Sealing -After a careful test fit, clean parts with alcohol and and use a toothpick to mix up some J-B Weld.  Spread a thin coat of epoxy evenly around the inner side wall of the larger section.  Option - High Temperature RTV will work to seal your stove, but isn't an epoxy like J-B weld.  It is easier to use, cheaper but lacks the strength that may be needed if you decide to set very large caldrons on your stove (which isn't recommended).  It may also take longer to completely vulcanize if you use much more than you need.  You should wait at least 24 hours before testing your stove and several days before you try any durability tests (determining the break point). If you are making an open jet stove, hybrid SideBurner stove or adding an inner cylinder to your pressurized jet stove (for structural integrity), this is the time to insert the inner cylinder.  Just fit the inner tube in the circular fissure in the inside of the top piece facing down and carefully bring the bottom piece over them (opposite in the picture below).  A small bead of epoxy may also be applied inside the circular fissure of the top piece (or later after construction is complete) to give it a better seal.

 

Note - if you are putting together an open jet stove, it is actually easier to perform this step upside down.

 Now carefully insert the narrower section into the wider section.  (See tape and shim trick at beginning to this step).  Then after you get the stove sections started over each other, smear on a light coat over the inner section for some added sealing.  If you have an inner tube, take care that you don't crunch it during assembly and you may also want to place a book on top of your stove while the epoxy is hardening to ensure that the inner tube stays firmly seated.   If you used the slit method, you must add a bead of epoxy over each of the slits to ensure a good seal. Clean any epoxy with a paper towel.  Wait 6 hrs then put it into a 250°F oven for 3-4 hours to finish curing the epoxy or wait 24 hours to completely harden at room temperature.  

Step 5- Final TouchesTest fire your stove and note that you may need to lower a pot to within an inch over the lit stove to get it to light all of the jets.  As needed, sand and apply a bead of epoxy over any leaks and/or run a needle or drill bit (by hand) through any jets that didn't fire up like the ones next to it. If you built a pressure jet stove, you will need a primer pan  Optional Performance Touches for open jet stoves

You may squeeze in some J-B weld or High Temperature RTV in the gap between the top of your inner cylinder and stove (open jet stove) to seal any leaks.  You may use a toothpick, a Q-tip or your finger.

You may paint the walls of the center fuel port black to possibly help it absorb heat during warm-up (unlikely a noticeable amount).  Counter intuitively, the regular 1200°F barbeque paints that can be cleaned up with alcohol seem to work fine.  Just avoid soaking your stove in alcohol for extended periods followed by rubbing it with steel wool.  This also makes score lines (with knife, nail, needle, etc.) for measuring lines easier to see and if you are fancy, you can just paint on the measuring lines (spray some paint in its cap and use brush, tape off section and spray or use high temperature paint markers).

If you like, you may try some toxic aluminum bluing from a gun store on the inside of your fuel chamber.  This isn't recommend for the outside of your stove as it may feel quite nasty (depending on what type you use).

 Optional Aesthetic Touches

Hi temperature paints found in hardware and auto supply stores as well as high temperature markers are other options.  If you used RTV and wiped it all over your stove (even if you can't see any), you will have problems painting unless you clean it off first (steel wool, sandpaper, SOS pad, etc).  Using a different color high temperature paint as a base layer and/or preheating your stove in the oven before each light coat might help your paint stick and not run.  It is important to understand that not all paints are created equal.  Paint varies in heat resistance, durability and resistance to flames and you'll have to experiment to get the right setup for you.  For example - Rustoleum high temperature black paint is good at resisting flames on a sideburner stove, while

some other paints blister, but Rustoleum isn't as tough as some of the ceramic paints at resisting scratches. If you are getting really fancy, you may cover the seam between the two can bottoms with J-B weld, let harden, and sand smooth.  This is give your painted stove a really nice look. 

 

Stove polished with SOS pad 

Metal polish, steel wool, SOS pads, buffing wheels or sandpaper can give you different metal looks from brushed to extremely polished.  If you want to strip the coloring off the outside of your stove, it is much easier to do so before opening your drink cans (as you are able to firmly scrub it without crushing it).  Just remember what was in the now unidentifiable can before you offer Aunt Mary a cool drink.  

Build a Primer Pan Priming pans are required for pressurized jet stoves (unless you come up with another method for preheating - candle, etc) but may also be used with hybrid sideburner jet stoves, which would allow you to set your pot on the stove and then light without needing to hold the pot above your stove while it warms up.  Primer pans may also be needed to heat up any stove in very cold weather. Please refer to Don Johnson's Video of lighting the stove to get an idea of how use your pan. 

Options

  Lightest - Take an aluminum disposable cookie pan or heavy duty aluminum foil and cut it larger

than the diameter of a bean dip or tuna can or something else the size you would like.  Form it around the can and trim down the edges to 1.5cm.  Aluminum flashing makes a slightly heavier pan but is also more durable. 

Made from disposable Bake Pan 

Alternately you can use a crimper (see Special Tools) to fold up the edge of you aluminum sheet like a cupcake paper liner for a more uniform shape without sharp points. 

Pot Pie Pan (left is trimmed down) 

Small aluminum mini-pie pans (trimmed down or untrimmed) also work.  

  Light - Aluminum dip or cat food can - mark 1.5cm from bottom and cut. 

Bottom of Bean Dip Can 

If you have a mini stove made of 6oz cans, you can try using a 3oz aluminum can (Spam spread, cat foot, Vienna sausages, etc) if you cut it down shallow enough (less than or equal to 1/4 inch or 6mm) and/or set the stove down offset from center (to allow air to get down to the fuel).  The diameter of this setup is just a tad smaller than ideal and may not work to your liking. The bottom of a 12oz drink can may be used for a stove made from 6oz cans.  Simply epoxy  the stove centered on the 12oz can part or if you want to get fancy, you can cut out the circular ridge on the 12oz can part, slide it over and around the stove and epoxy it to the side.

 

  Not as light - cut down a steel tuna can or other similarly sized diameter steel can.

 

  You may also epoxy stove or concave section of another can bottom (to help center the stove)

directly to your primmer  pan for a little stability and convenience.  If you do so, you may need to first burn/sand off any coating and drill a hole in the middle of your stove (to also increase fuel capacity) or primer pan (if you don't like the idea of a future fuel leak) to allow pressurized heated air trapped between the stove and primer pan to escape