ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAILSModule 28

EDITOR’S NOTE All artificial nail enhancements

products are based on ingredients from the acrylic family

Sub-branch called “methacrylate”Two-part liquid and powder

enhancement systems “Acrylic” – general term for large

group of ingredients

Liquid and powder artificial nail enhancements products based on the methacrylate subcategory

Two-part liquid and powder enhancement system referred to as acrylic (methacrylate) nails

INTRODUCTION Acrylic (methacrylate) nail

enhancements created by combining: monomer liquidpolymer powder

Liquid and powder system

MONOMER “Mono” means “one” “Mer” stands for “units” Monomer is one unit called a

“molecule”

POLYMER “Poly” means “many “Mer” stands for “units” Polymer means “many units” or “many

molecules”

“LIQUID AND POWDER NAIL ENHANCEMENTS” Applied three basic ways

Natural nail as protective overlayOver nail tipSculpted to extend natural nail using a

flexible form Natural hair brush best to apply

productsSable is best

Brush immersed in monomer liquid Natural hair bristles absorb and hold

monomer like a reservoir Tip of brush touched to surface of dry

polymer powder

Monomer absorbs polymer – small bead is formed

Bead is carefully placed on the nail surface and molded into shape with brush

Liquid is usually made from ethyl methacrylate monomerCan contain other monomers used as

customizing additives

Polymer powder is also made ethyl methacrylate monomer

Polymer powder is made using a special chemical reaction called polymerization

ProcessTrillions of monomers linked together to

create long chainsLong chains create tiny beads of polymer

used to create certain types of artificial nails

Special additives blended into both liquid and powderEnsure complete set or cureMaximum durabilityColor stabilityShelf life

Liquid is picked up by brush and mixed with the powderBead forms on the end of brush and

quickly hardensTo happen special additives called

catalysts

CatalystAdditive designed to speed up chemical

reactionsAdded to monomer liquid Used to control the set or curing time

Monomer liquid and polymer powder combined the catalyst helps control the set-up or hardening time

Energizes and activates the initiators Initiators start a chain reaction that

leads to the creation of fantastically long polymer chains

Polymerization process begins the second the liquid in the brush picks up powder from the container and forms a beadDominos

INITIATOR Added to polymer is called benzoyl

peroxide (BPO) Over the counter acne medicineDifferent purpose in nail enhancements

BPO used to start chain reaction that leads to curing (hardening)

Some monomers require more BPO than othersUse polymer powder designed for use with

monomer liquid Using wrong powder can create

enhancements that are not properly cured Could increase risk of client developing

skin sensitivity or irritation

ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS USING FORMS Polymer powders

Many colorsBasic pinkWhiteClearNatural

Used alone Customized colors – blended

Shades of pinkMatch or enhance nail bedsBold primariesPastelsWide range of designs and patterns

SUPPLIES FOR ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS Acrylic (methacrylate) nail

enhancements created by combining acrylic (methacrylate) monomer liquid with polymer powder

Acrylic (methacrylate) monomer liquid Here’s a tip pp 753 / 901

MIX RATIO Amount of monomer liquid and

polymer powder used to create a bead “Dry Bead”

Equal amounts of liquid and powder “Wet Bead”

Twice as much liquid as powder “Medium Bead”

50% more liquid than powder Ideal mix ratio

Typically ensures proper set and maximum durability of enhancements

Too much powderBrittlenessdiscoloration

Too little powderWeakRisk developing skin irritation and

sensitivity

ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) POLYMER POWDER Choose color depends on methods

used

NAIL DEHYDRATOR Apply liberally to natural nail plate

only Avoid skin contact Remove surface moisture and tiny

amounts of oil Both can block adhesion Here’s a tip pp 753

NAIL PRIMER Acid-based primers (methacrylic acid)

Corrosive to skinPotentially dangerous to eyesNot used much nowadays

“Acid free” and “nonacid” primer developed in wide use todayCaution box pp 754

Read mfg directions Refer to MSDS for safe handling

recommendations and instructions

ACID-BASED PRIMERS Relatively dry brush Using a light dotting action Carefully dab the brush tip to center of

properly prepared nail Primer will spread out and cover nail

plate Avoid product running into skin

Causing burns/injuries Read mfg. suggested use and

precautions

NON-ACID AND ACID-FREE NAIL PRIMERS Slightly damp brush Ensure nail plate is completely covered Avoid too much product

Running onto skin Causing skin irritation/sensitivity

Treat 2 -3 nails before dipping back into container

Read mfg suggested application procedures and precautions

ABRASIVES Medium grit

180 – 240Natural nail prep and shapingSmoothing

Fine grit350 or higherbuffing

3 way bufferCreate shine for no polish

Coarser gritLower gritAvoid usingCan damaged fresh nail enhancement

Acrylics can take 24 – 48 hours till peak strength

NAIL FORMS Placed under free edge Used to extend nail enhancements

beyond fingertip Creates additional strength Extra boxes on PP 902 - 903

NAIL TIPS Pre-formed extensions Wide variety

ShapesStylescolors

NAIL ADHESIVE Cyanoacrylate monomers Each types uses different customized

additives to enhanceSet timesStrengthOther properties

Small size bottleShort shelf life6 months after date of purchaseDepends on storage and usage

Obtain maximum shelf lifeClose cap securelySet uprightStore out of direct sunlightRoom temperature - 60º - 85º

Nail adhesive may harden in tube and need to be thrown away

DAPPEN DISH Poured into special holder

MonomerPolymerSmall narrow openings – minimize

evaporation Do not use open-mouthed jars or

containers with large openings Must be covered with a tightly fitting

lid when not in use

NEVER pour unused portion back into original containercontaminated

Avoid skin contact with monomer to avoid skin sensitivity or irritation

Wipe clean with acetone Store in a dust free location

NAIL BRUSH Sable hair Synthetic/less expensive brushes do

not pick up monomer or do not release liquid properly

Avoid overly large brushes – Hold excessive amount of liquidRisk touching client’s skin with monomerMay increase risk of developing skin

irritation or sensitivities

SAFETY EYEWEAR Protect eyes from flying objects Accidental splashes

DUST MASKS AND PROTECTIVE GLOVES Dust masks

Worn over nose/mouth to prevent inhalation off excessive amounts of dust

Provide NO protection from vapors Gloves

ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS PRE-SERVICE Complete pre-service sanitation and

disinfection procedure (ch. 25, pp 672/817)Wash implementsRinse implementsImmerse implementsWash hands with liquid soapRinse and dry implements

Set up standard manicuring table

Greet client and direct to wash hands with liquid soap and warm water

Perform client consultation

APPLICATION OF ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS USING FORMS Pages 757 – 761 FYI pp 762

Pages 912 - 915

ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS POST-SERVICE Make another appointment Take-home product recommendation Clean up around table Clean brush Store acrylic products Discard used materials Clean table - clean and disinfect

implements and multiuse tools

ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS OVER NAIL TIPS OR NATURAL NAILS Pages 763 – 766 Caution box pp 766

Pages – 908 - 911

MAINTENANCE AND REMOVAL OF ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS Regular maintenance prevents nail

enhancements from lifting or cracking If lifting/breaking greater risk of

infection and other problems Full and proper rebalance must be

performed every 2 – 3 weeks

REBALANCING Method for maintaining the beauty,

durability, and longevity of artificial nail enhancements

Do not let clients go too long without proper rebalance - more repairs

Nail is thinned down –apex of nail removed – entire nail enhancement reduced in thickness

Procedure pages 768 – 769 / 916 - 918Caution box page 769 / 917

CRACK REPAIR Addition of enhancement product to

repair cracks Similar procedure to rebalance Procedures – page 770 / 919 - 920

REMOVAL Perform as soon as possible after

request is made Procedure pp 771 921 - 922 Condition surrounding skin with nail

oil/lotion

ODORLESS ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) PRODUCTS Same chemistry as all other monomer

liquid and polymer powder Instead of using ethyl acrylic

(methacrylate) – rely on monomers with little odor

Must be used with a dry ix ratioEqual parts liquid to powder in bead

If too wet – skin irritation /sensitivity “snowy – appearing” bead on brush Lift brush and tap gently to remove

excess powder

Never rewet the brush with monomer Will dilute the enhancement product

already placed on nail Create wrong mix ratio Odorless harder more slowly Creates tacky layer - “inhibition” layer After hardening – remove using

alcohol, acetone or mfg. product Can be filed away Avoid skin contact

COLORED ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) POWDERS Limited only by your imagination Maintain recipe cards so they can be

reproduced Create customized nail enhancements Pay a few dollars more for the special

service