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    Accurate Time Study:The Beginning of Basics

    December 13-14, 2002

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    What apparel companies need?

    Apparel companies need standard cost solution

    China signed WTO agreement, more competitiveenvironment is coming ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning) system is building on

    foundation of BOM (Bill of Material) and BOL (Bill of Labor) BOM noted the standard costing for material, while BOL list

    the standard cost for manufacturing operation. Apparel companies looking for a better method of scheduling Apparel companies looking for a standard that is universal

    applicable Expecting the data could be use for production line

    balancing. Expecting the data could be used by sales/merchandising

    precise costing

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    Methods available

    Traditional apparel companies heavily dependson experience staff in estimating product cost

    Time Base Standard Time base standard are widely used in western

    countries from the 30s until now. All operations and labor cost are based on time

    unit; the common one are SAH (Standard Allow Hour), SAM (Standard Allow Minute) and SAS (Standard Allow Second)

    All time base standard includes allowance forpersonal need, additional incentive andcontingency.

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    Rating

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    Operation allowance for different machines

    Allowance Standards for Various Garment Operations

    Machine Machine Personal Incentive

    Type Delay & Fatigue

    Single Needle -Bobbin . %111 . %11 . %111

    -Looper . %11 . %11 . %111

    -Top Thread Only . %11 . %11 . %111

    Two Needles -Bobbin . %111 . %11 . %111

    -Looper . %11 . %11 . %111

    -Top Thread Only . %111 . %11 . %111

    Three Needles -Looper . %111 . %11 . %111

    -Top Thread Only . %111 . %11 . %111

    Four Needles -Looper . %111 . %11 . %111

    -Top Thread Only . %111

    . %11

    . %111

    Overlocking -Three Thread . %11 . %11 . %111

    -Five Thread . %111 . %11 . %111

    On the above operations allow a tolerance of +/- . % depending on type of work and length of machine cycle in rela11

    (Discuss with supervisor, when in doubt.)

    Buttonhole -Bobbin (Single) . %11 . %11 . %111

    -Bobbin (Tandem) . %111 . %11 . %111

    -Top Thread Only . %11 . %11 . %111

    -Chain Stitch (Single) . %11 . %11 . %111

    -Chain Stitch (Double) . %11 . %11 . %111

    On the following operations, allow % downward tolerance for machine delay on REECE S- tackers.1 1Button Sewing -Bobbin . %11 . %11 . %111

    -Top Thread Only . %11 . %11 . %111

    Semi-automatic Manual Operations

    Creasing (REECE; BRADDING) . %11 . %11 . %111

    Bartack -Single . %11 . %11 . %111

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    Operation Code

    ASS ASSEMBLE LPL LAPEL

    ATT ATTACH M/C MACHINE

    B&F BEARER & FACING MAN MANUAL

    BAG POCKET BAG MRK MARK

    BCK BACK NTH NOTCH

    BDL BUNDLE OLG OVERLOCK

    BEL BELT OPS OFF PRESS

    BLL BELT LOOP OSM OUT SEAM

    BND BAND PAD PADDING

    BPK BACK POCKET PBK PANEL BACK

    BRD BRAIDING PCH PATCH POCKET

    BSM BACK RISE SEAM PFC PANT FRONT

    BTH BUTTONHOLE PIP PIPING

    BTS BUTTON SEWING PKT POCKET

    CLR COLLAR PLQ PLACKET

    CLS CLOSE PLT PLEAT

    CTH CATCH PRS PRESS

    CUF CUFF QLT QUILTING

    DRT DART R&T RUN STITCH & TURN

    DSG DRAW STRING RTT RUN, TURN & TOPSTITCHING

    ELC ELASTIC RUN RUN STITCHING

    F&B FRONT & BACK SET SETF&C FLY & CATCH SEW SEWING

    FAC FACING SHR SHOULDER

    FAL FALL SLM SLEEVE HEM

    FEL FELL SLT SLIT

    FIX FIX SLV SLEEVE

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    Time Base Standard

    Apparel companies has two major method in

    establishing Time Base Standard Time Studies which base on industrial

    engineering technique by using stop-watch,element breakdown, rating, statistic analysis in

    establish SAM data. MTM (Motion Time Measurement) a

    technique allow engineer systematicallybreakdown operator motion in a sequence of

    motion. By well define the operation motionelements and convert motion code into time.Those time value put together become thestandard value for analysis SAM.

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    Limitation on Time Studies

    Standard procedures for time studies a. Observe job and analyze to determine element. b. Grade the elements to give assessment of rate of working

    compared to accept. c. Use stopwatch to obtain times of each element - raw time. d. Select or average to give accepted time. e. Multiply raw time by grading factor to get 100% time. f. Multiply 100% time by the number of times it occurs per 100

    garments to get 100% time / 100. g. Add allowances to 100% time to give standard allowed time. h. These comprise: (1) Machine Delay Allowance (Where applicable). (2) Personal And Fatigue Allowances. (3) Incentive Allowances (Where applicable).

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    Limitation on Time Studies

    Observe job and analyze to determine

    elements is subject to the decision of industrialengineer. It may vary from engineer toengineer. The method adopted by operator areoften different.

    Grading is an art. See the example It takes a long time to collect and build up

    sufficient samples before standardization couldbe achieved.

    SAM can never available before operations areperformed, this is another chicken and eggstory.

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    MTM method

    International adopted standard from MTM

    organization. MTM data is well established and proven

    MTM method based on motion analysis, eachmotion is well analysis, excessive andunnecessary motions are removed.

    No human judgment on rating.

    MTM result could be reused, the motion

    sequence allow very detail describe the motionrequired for the job.

    Labor union agree on MTM standards.

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    Why apparel companies need time base standard?

    Example on production capacity calculation

    A manufacturing facility has 820 sewing worker

    22 working day in a month

    8 Hours in a day

    60 minute in an hour Capacity input:

    820 X 22 X 8 X 60 = 8,659,200 minute

    Or 144,320 hour

    If basic garment with 18.8 SAM is defined, the factorytheoretical should be able produced 460,595garment in a months time

    8,659,200 minute / 18.8 SAM = 460,595 piece

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    If above example is extended to a morecomplicated style, the feasible output from thesame manufacturing would vary as following(assume the skill and machine is constant) 8,659,200 minute / 18.8 SAM = 460,595 piece 8,659,200 minute / 20.8 SAM = 416,308 piece

    8,659,200 minute / 22.8 SAM = 379,789 piece 8,659,200 minute / 24.8 SAM = 349,161 piece 8,659,200 minute / 26.8 SAM = 323,104 piece

    This example show if the style is changing andvary with features and operation intensive, itcould greatly affect the product capacity andcost!

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    What about costing?

    Let see the costing from other prospective Administrative cost: 250,000 per months Machine depreciation: 228,300 per months Rent and Utilities: 120,000 per month Total overhead could be :

    250,000 + 228,300 + 120,000 = 598,300

    Cost per input minutes would be $598,300/ 8,659,200 minutes= $ 0.069 per minutes

    The overhead absorb would be: Garment with 18.8 SAM = $0.069 X 18.8SAM = 1.2972 Garment with 20.8 SAM = $0.069 X 20.8SAM = 1.4352 Garment with 22.8 SAM = $0.069 X 22.8SAM = 1.5732 Garment with 24.8 SAM = $0.069 X 24.8SAM = 1.7112 Garment with 26.8 SAM = $0.069 X 26.8SAM = 1.8492

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    Labor Cost

    Direct wage or labor could be calculated as following

    Minute wage:

    Target wage per month = 800Working days in a month = 22

    Minute in a day (8 X 60) = 480

    Minute wage = 800 / (22 X 480) = 0.076 per minute

    Garment with 18.8 SAM = $0.076 X 18.8SAM = 1.4288 Garment with 20.8 SAM = $0.076 X 20.8SAM = 1.5808 Garment with 22.8 SAM = $0.076 X 22.8SAM = 1.7328 Garment with 24.8 SAM = $0.076 X 24.8SAM = 1.8848

    Garment with 26.8 SAM = $0.076 X 26.8SAM = 2.0368

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    What happened to total cost?

    Lets put overhead absorption and labor costtogether.

    SAM Labor Overhead GMT Cost

    18.8 0.069 0.076 2.726

    20.8 0.069 0.076 3.01622.8 0.069 0.076 3.306

    24.8 0.069 0.076 3.596

    26.8 0.069 0.076 3.886

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    Line balancing

    Line BalOPERATION PCS Existing EFFECTIVE Target

    DESCRIPTION SAM/111 Per 111 Piece Rate BASE RATE PCS111

    -------------------------------- ------- --------- ------- ---------

    1SN SEW LABEL & SIZE ON W/B .44444 .44444 .111 .44444 .11

    1DN ATTACH WAISTBAND ( )1 .11111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11

    1OVLK FLY FACING ( T)1 .11111 .11111 .111 .11111 .11

    11OVLK BACK POCKET BAG ( T)1 .11111 .11111 .111 .11111 .11

    11WELT POCKET ( )1 .11111 .11111 .111 .11111 .11

    11OVLK BEND SIDE OF F.PKT ( T) ( )1 1 .11111 .11111 .111 .11111 .11

    11ATT FACING W/TOPSTITCH END .11111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11

    11TRIM POCKET BAGS (L & S) .11111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11

    11TURN EDGESTITCH & SEW MIDDLE-SIDE .11111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11

    11OVLK FRONT JET PKT ( )1 .11111 .11111 .111 .11111 .11

    11MAKE DARTS .11111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11

    11TOPSTITCH BACK WELT PKT ( )1 .111111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11

    11CLOSE BACK PKT BAG ( )1 .11111 .1111 .111 .1111 .11

    11TOPSTITCH F.JET PKT ( )1 .111111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11

    11ATTACH FRONT PKT BAG & MAKE NOTCH .11111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11

    11TOPSTITCH FRONT PKT MONTH ( / )11 .11111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11

    11SN EDGESTITC H F.PKT (L PKT BAGS) .111111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11

    11OVLK FRONT CROTCH ( T)1 .11111 .11111 .111 .11111 .11

    11SET ZIP WITH FLY & CLOSE CROTCH .111111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11

    11ATTACH BELT LOOP ( ) & SZ LBL1 .11111 .1111 .111 .11111 .11

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    MTM Solution

    To enable apparel companies benefit

    from Time Base Standard without thelengthen process in collect operationsamples and following procedures on

    statistical analysis in establishing SAM. Computer package on MTM creation

    could be a quick win for apparel

    companies Such as IMPACT software package

    from Gerber Technology.

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    Gerber IMPACT is a high level MTM-2

    base system with easy to use andunderstanding elements.

    IMPACT has four major MTM-2 high levelelements DI elements for Dispose HA elements for Handling PO elements of Position PU elements of Pick Up

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    IMPACT elements Pick Up

    *****************************************

    PU11PICK UP PIECE WITH TURN

    Left (or right) hand (or both hands) is idle on the table or comingback from disposing the previous piece. The hand(s) moves to reachthe piece and grasps with several finger movements (difficult grasp).Lifts the part up in order to make a turn, brings the piece down tomachine and turns it simultaneously. The right (or the left) handusually also grasps the piece to hold it. The element does not includeany straightening nor any positioning of the piece but does includereleasing of the piece which may take place later on after severalelements.

    Left hand #Code Tmu Code #Right hand

    1- cm11 11 . min4444

    get piecelift to turnturn & bring totable

    GC11

    PA11

    (PA )11

    11

    1

    1

    GB1

    grasp if needed

    11- cm11 11 . min1111

    GC11

    PA11

    PA11

    11

    1

    11

    (GB )11

    11- cm11 11 . min4444

    GC11PA11

    PA11

    1111

    11

    (GB )11

    11- cm11 11 . min1111

    GC11

    PA11

    PA11

    11

    11

    11

    (GB )11

    Dispose

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    IMPACT element - Position

    *****************************************PO11

    POSITION UNDER FOOT ACCURATELY

    The piece (or pieces) is in hand. The hand brings the piece underthe foot and positions it accurately. The presser foot has been lifted

    before the element and will be let down during the next element.

    Left hand # Code Tmu Code # Right hand

    1- cm11 11 . min1111

    put & positionaccurately

    PC11

    11

    = =

    11- cm11 11 . min4444

    PC11

    11 =

    11- cm11 11 . min1111

    PC11

    11 =

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    IMPACT element - Handling

    *****************************************

    HA11ALIGN NOTCHESHands move simultaneously to edges of pieces and align notches.

    Control of the pieces shifts to the right hand with finger movements.

    The left hand supports the alignment.

    Left hand # Code Tmu Code # Right hand

    1- cm11 11 . min1111Get and align

    Support

    GB11

    PA11

    11

    1

    1

    =

    R Change control

    11- cm11 11 . min1111 GB11

    PA11

    11

    1

    11

    =R

    11- cm11 44 . min1111 GC11

    PA11

    11

    1

    11

    =

    R

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    IMPACT element - Dispose

    *****************************************DI11

    DISPOSE WITHOUT GRASP

    The piece is already under control of the hands. Move the piece

    aside with one continuous movement.

    Left hand # Code Tmu Code # Right hand

    1- cm11 11 . min1111

    move PB11

    11

    11- cm11 11 . min1111

    PB11

    11

    11- cm11 11 . min1111

    PB11

    11

    11- cm11 11 . min1111

    PB11

    11

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    Category 1

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    Category 2

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    Class Code

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    Components

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    IMPACT Element Data Table

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    Federal Stitch Type Data Table

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    Machine Data Table

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    Method Auto Numbers

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    Pay Code

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    Season Data table

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    Skill Code Data Table

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    Method Analysis - Header

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    Method Analysis Core

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    Method Analysis - Result

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    Method Analysis Details

    S b A bl A t f t

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    Sub Assembly A component of a garment

    S b A bl A l i

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    Sub Assembly Analysis

    S b A bl A l i Additi l I f ti

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    Sub-Assembly Analysis Additional Information

    IMPACT St l

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    IMPACT Style

    St l A l i

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    Style - Analysis

    St l Additi l I f ti

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    Style Additional Information

    W U

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    Warp Up

    Apparel Companies need Time Base

    Standard to enhance existing operationin scheduling, precise costing, costabsorption calculation, line balancing.

    Heading with WTO; a more demandingsituation; productivity is the key word.

    Need a quick solution, MTM-2 high level

    data could be a candidate for you!

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    Question?