about the a.h.v.y. (the scheme)

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    CONTENTS

    ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

    ABOUT THE A.H.V.Y. (THE SCHEME)

    OBJECTIVE OF A.H.V.Y

    COMPONENT OF A.H.V.Y

    ABOUT THE CRAFT

    DESIGN METHODOLOGY AND PROCESS

    VENUE OF THE WORKSHOP

    INSPECTION

    LIST OF THE PROTOTYPES

    SKETCHES OF THE PROTOTYPES

    PHOTOGRAPHS OF THE PROTOTYPES

    DESIGNERS REPORT

    DESIGNERS VIEW

    NEW ELEMENTS ADDED

    PERFORMANCE CUM ACHIVEMENT REPORT

    CONCLUSION

    RESUME OF THE DESIGNER

    LIST OF BENEFICIARYS

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    Acknowledgement

    My sincere thanks to all persons who were involved and made this

    workshop successful and without their proper support and guidance

    journey could not be fruitful.

    I am thankful to the Indian Govt. & O/o DC Handicraft for its mega project

    in various stages and feel grateful for this design and technical

    development workshop. It comes as a launching pad for the artisans to set

    the traditional skill on the right track.

    And last but not the least I want to give special thanks to the artisans of

    Hand Block Printing Industrial co-operative society for their lively attitude

    towards their commitment for the workshop.

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    ABOUT THE AHVYBaba Saheb Ambedkar Hastshilp Vikas Yojana-AHVY :

    It is a model project of the office of Development Commissioner

    Handicraft, Ministry of Textile,Govt. of India for self sustain development

    of handicrafts through community empowerment. The vision is

    establishment of a vibrant and member control community based

    enterprises with the overriding objectives to enable artisans to take up

    economic activities for sustainable development

    through a collection mode. Under the project artisans are empowered to

    become active entrepreneurs-cum-primary stake holders in the process of

    development linking them to domestic and overseas market.

    Ambedkar Hastshilp Vikas Yojna aims at promoting Indian handicrafts by

    developing artisan's clusters into professionally managed and self reliant

    community enterprise on the principles of affective member participation

    and mutual cooperation. The thrust of the scheme is on a projected need

    based integrated approach for craft persons landing their empowerment.

    To organize artisans cluster into Self Help Groups (SHGs) or co-operative

    societies with a view to enabling them to take up economic activity for

    sustainable development through a collective mode.

    The main objective of scheme :-To empower artisans by making the active entrepreneurs cum primary

    stake holders in the process of development and bringing them to a visible

    platform for easy access to domestic and overseas markets.

    -To upgrade artisan's skill through appropriate design and technology

    intervention to enable them to use quality raw material, tools and

    equipment to produce value added items.

    -To provide adequate infrastructure support for improved quality and

    productivity and to enable artisans access to a larger market segments,

    both domestic & international.

    Scope of the scheme :

    -Identification of the cluster

    -Identification of the right development partners.

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    -Diagnostic survey to access the current status, with regards to skill,

    capability, technology and needed intervention, absorption capacity of

    various inputs and delivery.

    -Selection of the target groups of the crafts persons belonging to all

    categories with special emphasis on these belongings to SC/ST, physically

    handicapped, minorities and women.

    -Organization of awareness camps to sensitize target groups, group

    leaders, local offices, etc.about the objective of the scheme for their

    better involvement and results.

    -Formulation of cohesive self help groups, selection of group leaders and a

    village volunteers as cluster manager.

    -Introduction of thrift and credit activity among the women artisans and

    village community, making them understand the concept to thrift and

    credit and as well its advantage and selection of women group leaders

    etc.

    The components of the scheme:

    -Social: development awareness on self help and community participative

    organization of self help groups empowerment of women through TAC,

    inculcation of leadership qualities, organizations behavior and

    management, formation of economical viable enterprise.

    -Ethnological: increasing productivity, product and design development,

    standardization of product, technological up gradation for capacity

    building, quality control measures with well defined specification,

    effective packaging, and networking through IT.

    -Marketing: Assimilation of market intelligence, product identification as

    per market segmentation, appropriate market and product mix, building up

    of business enterprise, relationship management of assisting market

    outlets, test marketing through financial exhibition/fairs, effective publicity

    through appropriate media mix.

    -Financial: pooling of economic resource (within through thrift and credit

    and external through financial institution and funding organization).

    - Welfare: Health package insurance, group insurance, work shed, housing-

    cum-work shed, functional literacy and health nutrition and sanitation,

    communal harmony.

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    ABOUT THE CRAFT: Crewel Embroidery

    Crewel Embroidery is widely practiced throughout India with different

    stylistic variations that serve to distinguish the workmanship of one regionfrom that of another. Irrespective of whether it be the ari work of the

    cobblers of Kachchh in Gujarat or the textile embroiderers of TamilNadu,

    the thread is passed through the ari, hooked needle, and is always held

    under the fabric to be embroidered and the hok is used to pull a series of

    loops, each emerging from within the previous, to the surface of the fabric.

    There are two versions of this technique; the first is used to embroider on

    thin fabrics such as silk and fine cotton cloth, used as stoles and shawls or

    made into pheran, which is a loose over-garment, kurta and capes. Crewel

    work, although similar, uses a thicker ari and is normally done onunbleached fabric; its stitches are bolder and it is used for embellishing

    yardages used as upholstery and drapery. In both cases, the patterns are

    usually linear abstractions of the local flora, with the outlines worked first

    and the embroiderers are usually men from the Sunni Muslim community.

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    DESIGN METHODOLOGY AND PROCESS :

    To achieve something fruitful result, Planning is the must and should be

    based on certain facts related to the field/craft.

    Products - Products needs to be developed that they can relate theirrequirements, usages, and above all the capability in their society they

    were lagging at.

    Costing The other very important aspect which is necessary for thecommercialization of any product is its costing. As its the most important

    of the development and survival of any craft, business of species on earth

    that better and adoptable as per the situation can only deserve to survive

    in the competitive world. Increasingly Productivity, Product and Design

    Development, standardization of product, technological up gradation for

    capacity building, quality control measures with well defined

    specifications, effective packaging.

    Raw Material - It should be taken care that those raw materials should bein use, which is easily available to the native place of workshops. Wool

    which is majorly used in Crochet craft is easily available in concern area.

    Marketing - Assimilation of Market intelligence, product identification asper market segmentation. Appropriate market and product mix, building up

    of business enterprise, relationship management of assisting market

    outlets, test marketing through financial exhibitions/ fairs, effective

    publicity through appropriate media mix.

    Financial Pooling of economic resource (within through thrift and creditand through financial institutions and funding organizations.)

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    According to the above mention facts I tried to make the Products which were relevant with their identification

    to the Map.ie lifestyle accessories, Home Decoration, & other items and

    Designs were also like which is easily communicable to the artisans.

    Methodology Adopted to develop the prototypes As per the survey report reveals that what the major facts were playing

    around the area it got needed a little bit different strategy to follow.

    Artisans were need to convince about the market and its changing nature

    as pore the time requirement adopted the methodology follows

    Identifying there area of interest and specialization. i.e. techniques.

    Different sources introduced to get new designs and ideas.

    Let them taught the planning process and its importance.

    Introduction to concept development process.

    Different techniques to utilize the raw material.

    Finishing and packaging techniques.

    Method to take care of process.

    Raw Material Fabric, Colorful Threads (Cotton, Viscose (Twisted,Untwisted) ), sequin, etc. Tools and Equipments Different Number ofNeedles, Frames, Khaka making paper, Stationary, Kerosin, Neel,

    Scisors,Cutter, Aari Needles, ETC

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    Venue of the Workshop : -Village- Bachipra, Dist.- Budgam,J&K, India

    The Clusters in the Area have been engaged with handicraft activity and have

    been producing quality goods and have been sincerely going on with this

    vacation. Technical Guidance were to been offered. The Craftsman are suffering

    from difficulties of raw material and being the victims of middleman ship. Thenew generation is getting away from the craft because of lack of proper

    guidance about the craft and its growing future.

    Date of the Workshop 6 th July 20th July 2012 (total days 15)

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    InspectionOfficials with Designer Neha kumari and artisans.

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    LIST OF THE PROTOTYPESDESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP

    CRAFT- CREWAL EMBRAOIDARYDATE- 06-07-2012 to 20-07-2012

    VENUE: village- Bacchipara, Dist.-Badgam, J&K

    PRODUCT NAME PRODUCT CODE SIZE/INCHES

    PRICE/pc INR

    PCS

    1 LADIES SUIT PIECE NK/SASEICL/12-01 24X 4.5 m 950/- 022 LADIES JACKET NK/SASEICL/12-02 18X 16 750 /- 023 LADIES SUIT PIECE NK/SASEICL/12-03 24X 4.5 m 1050 /- 024 LADIES SUIT PIECE NK/SASEICL/12-04 24X 4.5 m 1150 /- 025 LADIES SUIT PIECE NK/SASEICL/12-05 24X 4.5 m 1100 /- 026 SCARF NK/SASEICL/12-06 16X 24 900 /- 027 LADIES SUIT PIECE NK/SASEICL/12-07 24X 4.5 m 1000 /- 028 LADIES SUIT PIECE NK/SASEICL/12-08 24X 4.5 m 1050 /- 029 LADIES SUIT PIECE NK/SASEICL/12-09 24X 4.5 m 1150 /- 0210

    LADIES SUIT PIECE NK/SASEICL/12-10 24X 4.5 m 1200 /- 0211

    LADIES SUIT PIECE NK/SASEICL/12-11 24X 4.5 m 1050 /- 0212

    LADIES JACKET NK/SASEICL/12-12 15X 11 750 /- 0213

    LADIES SUIT PIECE NK/SASEICL/12-13 24X 4.5 m 1050 /- 0214

    LADIES SUIT PIECE NK/SASEICL/12-14 24X 4.5 m 1150 /- 0215 LADIES SUIT PIECE NK/SASEICL/12-15 24X 4.5 m 1100 /- 02

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    DESIGNER'S REPORTDESIGNER VIEW:

    A detailed survey of the area was made to access the existing design in

    Crewal Embroidery, the available materials, technical inputs, production

    process and marketability of product etc. for the development of new

    designs, which can easily, marketed.

    The positive feature seen at workshop's place is the dexterity of the

    womenfolk in various crafts. The artisans of Hand Block Printing Industrial

    co-operative society were yet not well trained in hand embroidery but

    having creative sense and good knowledge of color combination. It plays a

    positive role to implementing new and advance design during thisworkshop.

    The base line survey got done before starting the workshop keeping

    certain things in the mind such as the present condition of craft and its

    practitioners, to know the basic requirement, the problem and its solutions

    and last but not the least for the scope & possibilities of the crafts and its

    practitioners.

    It always been noticed that craftsmen are keeping the traditional arts and

    craft alive but they hardly reap the profits of their hard work. I try my best

    to make this workshop improve the status of our artisans and craft

    persons. This 15 days time we make them aware in many skills and art

    forms also the market trends and color forecasting and pricing.

    The crafts persons were talented and practicing it, as the products madeout of this craft is used in everyday workout. The crafts persons practicing

    the art for the household needs and for some small business point. There

    products of concerned and the designs were of limited stock, as they don't

    have exposure to the outer world of competition. The artisans are highly

    skilled but easily can be mould into any shape of desire.

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    The ultimate story is that, by proper guidance regarding the designs,

    ability to judge the trend and requirement of the market, technical inputs,

    providing proper marketing network, refinement of taste and choices to be

    built up among the artisans to enable them to put an overall performance

    on the crafts to ensure end users satisfaction.

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    NEW ELEMENTS ADDED

    Keeping in mind the growing interest all over the world in Embroidary and

    especially the emergence of contemporary embroidery. I have tried to

    design a few home furnishing accessories without moving from the

    traditional elements and the creative trends in textile. New inspirationbased an old modes designs and motifs of today. The focus was to teach

    them making their own patterns and accessories, not only will allow

    artisans to express their personal style but also teach them the

    importance of colors and details and tell them if these all elements well

    coordinated can add grace to design and product.

    The focus was to teach them how to create design patterns from an

    inspiration. Give it appropriate color combinations and use ideal technique

    to enhance the pattern and the basic steps of creating a design pattern forwork by taking inspiration from the beautiful thins presents in the nature,

    books, surroundings and pictures etc.

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    PERFORMANCE CUM ACHIEVEMENT REPORT

    The 15 day's workshop 6 th July, 2012 20 th July, 2012 with the artisansofSukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.,Badgam (J & K) , hasbeen a workshop with the difference. The work procedure during the

    workshop has emerged well. The collective effort of artisans and thedesigner reveals the great potential. It is very hearting to see the entire

    process, from the conception of design sketching graphic, tracing, framing

    selection of color has been highly interactive one and everybody learned

    from every moment of it .The product designed during the workshop was

    done with the aim of finding new buyers, will give more benefit to the

    artisans. Look for the product which has a aesthetic beauty with Indian

    touch, especially the Foreign customers. Key factor for the success of the

    workshop was due to main focus on the

    -Designing,

    -Highly decorative,

    -Focus on the neatness of the needle work

    -Finish is also one of the key features which led to its successes.

    -Excellent colors election according to the prototype.

    The product created range from Cushion, Pillow covers & Bed sheets etc.

    these qualify the design brief, which had required the designer to focus on

    the products. The idea was to have prototype with the quality anddifference, and that can be produced faster without any technical difficulty

    and have a fancy look.

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    A brief repor t on progress of the workshop andprototype development

    FIRST PHASE (06 th July, 2012 09 th July, 2012)Workshop got inaugurated, than a brief introduction regarding the purpose

    of the workshop and whole planning regarding the work discussed.

    After inaugural speech to understand the skills level of craft women, paper

    & fabric swatches distributed to the women to know their knowledge and

    skill about the craft. Then design of four set of the prototypes were taught

    & imprisoned on respective base material on which prototypes suppose to

    get developed with all the details. Placements of the designs on base

    material got done and were distributed among them. Work started on

    respective prototypes at the same time.

    SECOND PHASE (10 th July, 2012 13 th July, 2012)One set of the four prototypes i.e. ladies bags& cushion cover etc. got

    completed. At the end of this phase 13th july , 2012 other Seven set of

    designs of prototypes were got traced onto the respective base material.

    THIRD PHASE (14 th July, 2012 19 th July, 2012)In this phase some small prototypes were got completed. All the heavy

    work prototypes i.e. ladies suit pices, jackets etc. were targeted. At the

    end of this phase 19

    th

    July, due to fine and heavy work as well as shorttime period, Sixteen set (In double) of sample got finished.

    FOURTH PHASE ( 20 th July, 2012)All the prototypes developed were finished that means thread cutting,

    hemming, washing & stitching get done.

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    CONCLUSION

    The 15 (fifteen) days workshop with the crafts women ofSukhnag AriStaple embroidery I C Ltd.has been an insightful process.B

    The work that has emerged, through the collective effort of the crafts

    women, N.G.O.team, and the Designer, reveals the great potentials that thetraditional craft of hand embroidery practiced by the women has. The

    products created by the crafts women, supposedly low skilled but are neat

    and well executed and have made us rethink about there potential. It is

    heartening to see that the entire process, from the conception of the

    designs, to tracing them, cutting, and then filling and finishing the product,

    has been highly participatory one, and everybody enjoyed every moments

    of it.

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    Resume

    Name : Neha [email protected]

    Flat 102,C-1, Wing 1, Bindra Road, Bindra rose appartment ,Maha kali caves road, Andheri (E),Mumbai 90

    Cell Number: +91-9873795268

    PROFILE:- Extensive Experience in Product Development & Production.- Ability to think differently in provided guidelines. Systematic approachtowards the taskat hand .Adaptability to assimilate self into different cultures, situationsand work with a team to achieve results.

    CRAFT BASED PROJECTS :

    Projects with JJSM,AIPPS,Delhi etc under AHVY

    Project with Design Studio ( NIFT gandhinagar )2 month

    -Aim of this project was to create value addition to single ikat dress matterial and sareeswith treditional embroidary.-This included field work in surendranagar.

    Two weeks project with SEWA (Self employed womenassociation ),Ahmedabad.Developed a range of 6 Indian garments for mid aged indipendent Indian women witha manufacturing price limit 500/-

    Documenting Mutwa and Soda Rajput community in Kutch

    - Aim of this project was to develop an understanding of traditional craftOf India by studying the factors and environment effecting it for furtherImplementation in designs- This included three weeks of fieldwork at Kutch .- Studying the lifestyle, culture & craft of these communities in banniDistrict.- Further documenting their traditional embroidery and products.

    Field study and for 2 weeks in the village Por and documentation for thesame- The aim was to do a cluster study of village.- To understand their lifestyle, works, beliefs, history etc. have created theenvironment.

    Collection of surfaces based on traditional embroidery.

    - selected kantha as the traditional embroidery technique.- further studied its history , origin and types .- developed 14 swatches for Indian evening wear based on researchand exploration.

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    Collection of accessories taking inspiration from Banaras , embellishedwithtraditional Indian embroidery.

    - This project was mainly focused on creating contemporary surfacesusing traditional embroidery and further applying them into products.

    - My inspiration for motifs was ghats of banaras- collection has a belt, shoes and a hand bag for tourists visiting India.

    PROFFESIONAL EXPERIENCE:

    June 15 2009 to April 15 2010Sarthak creations pvt. Ltd. -It is an export house involved in high fashion,beach wear,men's shirts and denims. Their clients include brands likeFCUK, Playboy, Zara etc.Position- Designer ( Beach wear and high fashion)Job Responsibilities:

    - Research on forecast .- Making Sketches of collections as per categories .- Coordinating and inspecting the sampling of the garments.Achievements :- Developed the entire range for beach wear for our showroom fromwhich the company got numerous orders from ZARA.

    EDUCATIONAL QUALIFICATION :

    Bachelor of Fashion Technology, (Fashion and apparel 2009)Institute: NIFT, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India

    Higher SecondaryCentral Board of Secondary Education (2004)Senior SecondaryCentral Board of Secondary Education (2002)

    TRAINING EXPERIENCE :

    Internship under Designer Deepika Gehani, Mumbai for 2 months

    - Assignment 1: Designed a shirt for Miss India 2008 to be worn under herformal suit.- Assignment 2: Designed a range of women's tops and dresses made of

    printedknits & embellished with badges.- Assignment 3: Designed a range of short and long draped dresses made ofJacquard knits.- Assignment 4: Designed a range of women's formal kurtas made in linenwith surface embellishment.PROJECTS UNDERTAKEN:

    Designed Garments for the theater group of college as per the theme of the play

    for year 2007 & 2008.

    Loungewear for overweight girls considering the elements which can make them

    Look more presentableDesigned and constructed a semi formal summer jacket taking combat as theme.Designed a menswear reversible Friday wear formal jacket.

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    Developed a print for day wear on the theme TERRITORIES

    INDUSTRY EXPOSURE

    Visit to screen printing section in Jindal, Ahmedabad to study types of screen printing

    Visit to block printing unit in Parizaat , Ahmedabad to study the process of block printing

    Visit to Aarvee denim, Ahmedabad to study process of manufacturing of types of denim

    & canvas.

    Visit to BVM, Ahmedabad to study manufacturing of different types of corduroy and

    Jacquard weaving.

    Visit to ARVIND MILLS LTD., kalol to study manufacturing and garmenting of knits.

    Extra curricular activity:

    Modeled for annual college fest (eclipse 08)

    Participated in basketball tournaments at cluster level & school level.

    Participated and won accolades in various drawing competitions.

    Permanent Address:

    Qr.no-311, city palace,Sher-e-punjab chowk,Saraikela kharsawa, Adityapur

    Jamshedpur,832109Jharkhand, India

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    A report on Design & Technical Development workshopSukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

    PROTOTYPE NO - 01PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE

    PRODUCT CODE- NK/SASEICL/12-01

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    A report on Design & Technical Development workshopSukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

    PROTOTYPE NO-02

    PRODUCT LADIES JACKET

    PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-02

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    A report on Design & Technical Development workshopSukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

    PROTOTYPE NO - 03

    PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE

    PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-03

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    A report on Design & Technical Development workshopSukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

    PROTOTYPE NO - 04

    PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE

    PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-04

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    A report on Design & Technical Development workshopSukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

    PROTOTYPE NO- 05

    PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE

    PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL/12-05

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    A report on Design & Technical Development workshopSukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

    PROTOTYPE NO- 06

    PRODUCT SCARF

    PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-06

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    A report on Design & Technical Development workshopSukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

    PROTOTYPE NO- 07

    PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE

    PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-07

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    A report on Design & Technical Development workshopSukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

    PROTOTYPE NO- 08

    PRODUCT PENCIL POUCH

    PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-08

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    A report on Design & Technical Development workshopSukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

    PROTOTYPE NO. 09

    PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE

    PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-09

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    A report on Design & Technical Development workshopSukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

    PROTOTYPE NO. 10

    PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE

    PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-10

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    A report on Design & Technical Development workshopSukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

    PROTOTYPE NO. 11

    PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE

    PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-11

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    A report on Design & Technical Development workshopSukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

    PROTOTYPE NO. 12

    PRODUCT LADIES JACKET

    PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-12

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    A report on Design & Technical Development workshopSukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

    PROTOTYPE NO. 13

    PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE

    PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-13

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    A report on Design & Technical Development workshopSukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

    PROTOTYPE NO. 14PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE

    PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-14

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    A report on Design & Technical Development workshopSukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

    PROTOTYPE NO 15