about fishing

All you need to know about “FISHING”

November 1, 2012

Compiled by: Darseet Garasia


Darseet Garasia Page 1



Fishing Rods & Reels

In determining a fishing rod and reel one must consider the species you are fishing for along with the

type of lure or live bait to be used. For instance your rod and reel set-up should match the fishing

presentation. If you're pursuing panfish using light lures or small minnows your outfit should be

lightweight for casting and detecting bites, not a heavy baitcaster for pike or bass.

There are five main basic categories of fishing rod and reel combinations, and within each there are

multiple sub-categories of specialty types of outfits used for specific fishing applications, for example

Walleye fisherman use rod and reel set-ups for slip bobber, slip sinker, jigging and trolling. Bass

fisherman carry pitchin', flippin', crank baiting, and soft plastics combo's. Muskie anglers have

bucktail, jerk bait and top water outfits. In short, fishing rods and reels have come a long way over

time, with new space age materials having been developed for rod construction making them longer

and much lighter as well as reels with multiple ball bearings and one piece alloy and graphite frames.

Fishing Rod & Reel Combinations:

SPINCASTING:

This is the preferred set-up for the inexperienced angler. Spincasting outfits are excellent in teaching

the beginning angler and children the mechanics of casting. The spin cast reel is mounted above the

rod with the reel spool enclosed with a nose cone cover, this prevents line snarling and backlash's that

are associated with bait casting reels. Casting is a simple task, the angler presses and holds down a

button on the rear of the reel, this disengages the line pick-up pin, upon the forward cast the line comes

off the spool. Once the crank handle is turned the pick-up pin is engaged retrieving the line on the

spool.

Spincast reels have low gear ratios as a result of the size of the spool, which makes it difficult to fish

lures that require a fast retrieve such as: inline spinners, spinner baits and buzz baits. When purchasing

a spincast reel consider selecting models with anti reverse and smooth drag system versus the

inexpensive all plastic models with sticky drags that result in broken line. For rods buy fiberglass their

durable will hold up from abuse.



SPINNING:

Spinning reels where commercially introduced in 1948 by Mitchell Reel Company of France. The

design was of a fixed spool reel mounted below the fishing rod with a mechanical pick-up (wire bail)

used to retrieve the fishing line. The anti reverse feature prevents the crank handle from rotating while

fighting a fish allowing the angler to use the drag. In casting a spinning reel the angler opens the bail,

grasping the line with the forefinger, then using a backward snap of the rod followed by a forward

cast, the line is drawn off the fixed non rotating spool and not against a rotating spool such as a bait

casting reel. Because of this lighter lures can be used where the weight of the lure does not have to pull

against a rotating spool. Spinning rods have large fishing line guides to minimize line friction upon

casting. Spinning outfits operate best using fairly light weight limp flexible monofilament fishing lines

and are used for bluegills, crappies, perch and walleyes.

BAITCASTING:

Baitcasting outfits are excellent for many kinds of fishing, and come in a wide variety of options and

types: Round and Low Profile, High and Low Retrieve Speed along with anti-reverse handles and line

drags designed to slow runs by large and powerful gamefish. Baitcasting outfits are considered the

standard when using heavier lures fishing bass, pike and muskie. All bait casting reels are mounted

above the rod, when casting the angler moves the rod backward then snapping it forward, the line is

pulled off the reel by the weight of the lure. In the early years of bait casting reels the angler used their

thumb to control the amount of line travel as well as to prevent the spool overrun or backlash. Today

all quality bait casting reels have a spool tension feature for adjusting the centrifugal brake, and or a

magnetic 'cast control' to reduce spool overrun during a cast and resultant line snare called a birds nest.

For successful casting the most important setting is the casting brake. (The casting brake is the

small knob located in the center under the reel handle side) To set the cast control, tie on your lure

and reel it to the tip of your rod. Tighten the knob until it feels snug. Push the casting release

button. Your lure should not move. Hold the rod at the 2 o’clock position and slowly turn the knob

counter clockwise until the lure starts to fall. Let the lure hit the ground and watch the spool. The



spool should not spin more than one revolution after the lure hit’s the ground. If it spins more than

one revolution, tighten the cast control knob and repeat the procedure. If the spool does not spin

after the lure hit’s the ground, the cast control is set too tight. Loosen the knob and repeat the

procedure.

Baitcasting reels offer the angler a wide variety of fishing line options ranging from the new super

lines (Braided Low Stretch) to copolymer "Fluorocarbon" and nylon monofilament. Baitcasting rods

have also evolved from the older 5-6 foot pool cue rods to 7-9 foot lengths used today allowing

increased casting distance and accuracy. Overall bait casting outfits are best suited for the experienced

angler, they can be intimidating but you can learn with a little time and effort. In learning the casting

technique we recommend practicing on land with a plastic casting plug.

TROLLING:

The term trolling not only reflects the type of equipment, but a commonly used method of fishing.

Trolling is a form of angling where lines with hook-rigged lures are dragged behind a boat to entice

fish to bite. Trolling outfits are very similar to bait casting set-ups, as the trolling reels are mounted

above the rod. Trolling rods range from long and limber for downriggers and planer boards to stiff for

large crank baits. The spool line capacity on trolling reels is greater than bait casting reels to

accommodate heavier fishing line that is used for long line big water trolling.

All trolling reels have three basic features: star drag (Line Braking System) on the reel handle for

fighting large game fish, an on/off line release lever and a line out alarm (Clicker) other options are a

line counter allowing the angler to replicate the amount of line used on successful fish catching

patterns. Trolling can be as simple as just letting line off the reel with an attached lure known as flat

lining or using rigging systems such as a downriggers, planer/trolling boards and dipsey divers. ( See

our trolling section for more rigging information).

Trolling reels are designed to offer the most versatility when it comes to fishing line options. Inland

freshwater anglers use monofilament and lead core for walleyes and salmon, Muskie & Pike anglers

use low stretch braided super lines for trolling large plugs and spinners. Coastal saltwater anglers use

wire lines made of stainless steel, titanium or a combination of metal alloys to prevent toothy fish from

severing the line. Trolling is a productive fish catching technique by presenting multiple lures covering

a lot of water, it is also illegal in some area’s of the country so please check your local fishing

regulations.

FLYCASTING:

The art of fly fishing has been documented going back for hundreds of years dating to ancient times,



countless articles have been written regarding legendary trout stream fishing or for European salmon.

The angling method of fly fishing is casting a fly or streamer consisting of a hook tied with

fur,feathers, foam, or other lightweight materials to mimic insects, minnows and other aquatic

creatures. The fly lure is non-weighted for which the fly rod uses the weight of the fly line in casting

the fly lure. Fly lines are available in a variety of forms varying from tapered sections (double-tapered,

weight-forward, shooting-head) level (even through out) as well as floating and sinking types, attached

on the end of the fly line is a leader of monofilament or fluorocarbon fishing line called a tippet in

whichthe fly lure is tied to. Fly rods are long, thin, flexible fishing rods originally made of split

bamboo, but now are constructed from man made composite materials (fiberglass, carbon/graphite and

boron/graphite) ranging from 6ft to 14ft in length.

The fly line, not the lure, determines casting. Fly rods are sized (matched) by the weight of the fly line

from size #0 rods for the smallest freshwater trout and panfish up to and including #16 rods for large

saltwater game fish. Fly fishing reels are mounted below the rod with the basic design of line storage.

Early fly reels often had no drag systems just a clicker that was used to keep the reel from overrunning

the line when pulled from the spool, the angler used their hand as a line brake known as palming when

fighting a fish. Newer fly reels have incorporated disc type drag that allows the angler the adjustment

range using the combination of the rod and reel to control large game fish in powerful runs.

There are several types of casts in fly fishing, the most common is the forward cast. The angler starts

by stripping line off the reel with one hand while whipping the rod in a series of back a forth motions

over the shoulder. The correct angle is 10 o' clock to 2 o' clock. The main objective is to load the rod

with stored energy then transmit that energy to the fly line allowing the angler the acceptable amount

of casting distance. The goal is to present the fly lure in such a way that the line lands smoothly on the

water’s surface and appears natural. Other casting techniques are false casting, used to cast a fly lure

without landing on the water, others are single and double haul cast, roll cast side, or curve cast and

the tuck cast. If you're considering fly fishing we highly recommend that you seek professional

guidance by visiting your local fly fishing pro shop in selecting the rod, reel and fly lures as well as

receiving lessons on casting.

Fishing Reel Features: In selecting the right reel for your style of fishing there are literally thousands of different reels on the

market today to choose from. For the less experienced angler this can be somewhat confusing. Before

we compare the features of fishing reels here are some pointers that will help you determine a list of

requirements for the best type of reel to use. First, what kind of fish will you be catching? What is the

average size, and angling technique? Will you be casting lures using live bait or trolling. What pound

test line is best suited for the fishing application. These answers will narrow down your search and aid

in purchasing the proper reel. As a general guideline the lighter the line and smaller the game fish the

best reel choice for the novice anglers and children is a spincast reel. For the more proficient caster

using the same set-up a spinning reel is best. As the targeted species gets larger requiring heavier line

and lures a conventional reel or bait caster will be the better choice.

For the best performance from your reel, the reel must be balanced with your rod. If you use a reel that

weighs too much for the rod it will feel butt heavy. You will have problems casting and it will take

away the sensitivity from the rod tip in feeling a fish strike. Conversely, a reel that is too light for a rod

will make it feel tip heavy, by fishing for a length of time your wrist will tire by trying to hold the rod

upward.For a properly balanced outfit hold the rod with the reel attached on the fore grip (the handle

above the reel) by using a few fingers, the rod should sway back and forth and stay somewhat

horizontal not completely moving forward or backward, if not change reel sizes or rod length to

achieve a balanced outfit.



Listed below are the features and components that make up fishing reels, many of them are universal

and found on all types of reels, these descriptions will help you identify and understand the ideal reel

for your angling needs.

ANTI REVERSE:

The anti reverse function on fishing reels is so the handle does not turn backwards when the line is

pulled from the reel as the drag is used. Spinning reels have an anti reverse on/off lever that will allow

the angler the choice of engaging the drag or back reeling when fighting a fish. Most baitcasting reels

today have anti reverse as a standard feature. High quality reels that feature the number of bearings on

models followed with a single number such as 7+1 indicates a anti reverse bearing which with tighter

machining tolerances provides the angler with a "no play in handle" giving the angler complete control

during stop and go retrieves and solid hook sets. For larger game fish some bait casting and trolling

reels use a additional anti reverse gear along with the bearing this adds security if the bearing can not

handle the strain of hard running fish.

BALL BEARINGS:

All conventional fishing reels contain either ball bearings or bushings built within the reel to operate

the spool smoothly. It is the generally thought that the greater amount of bearings in a reel the

smoother the operation and the higher the cost. But one must consider that the amount of bearings

does not necessarily mean that the reel is smoother than others with less. Reel companies only list the

total number of bearings for the reel, not the type or quality of the bearings. In other words a 2 ball

bearing reel machined with tight tolerances and high quality factory sealed stainless steel bearings will

perform longer and smoother than a reel with 6 ball bearings made of brass. The deciding factor when

it comes to purchasing a new reel should not be limited to just the number of bearings but the overall

performance, (smooth cranking, machining & bearing qualities ) as comparing to other reels in

determining which is the smoothest.

CASTING CONTROLS: (BAITCASTING)

All quality baitcasting reels come with built in casting control systems that help determine how fast

the spool is spinning when casting. These systems are centrifugal and magnetic, depending on the

model some have one some have both and are either externally adjustable or internal. The centrifugal

casting control is located on the reel handle side and his adjusted by turning the knob forward or

backward. The magnetic control braking system is located on the other side with a numbered position

dial to increase or decrease the amount of magnetic force applied to the spool. This is the fine tuning

feature found on more expensive reels that works with a internal transfer braking mechanism, at the

beginning of a cast (with the increased RPM‘s) this mechanism rotates out towards the braking

magnets to slow the spool which helps reduce backlashing. While no bait casting reel is considered

backlash free even with all of the casting features to help control the spool casting speed. It is still

advisable to apply light thumb pressure on the spool in order to prevent a backlash.

DRAG: All types of fishing reels have a drag system. The drag feature is a tension setting applied to the spool

of the reel, think of it as a clutch or line braking system. The drag uses a set of multiple disc washers

that compress when pressure is increased or relaxed when decreased. The concept of the drag is letting

the line unwind in a controlled manner off the reel when a fish pulls so hard that the line is in danger

of breaking. The drag should be set tight enough for a hook set, but loose enough to come off of the

fishing reel easily.

Baitcasting/Trolling/Spincast reels use a star-shaped wheel located on the reel handle called a star

drag, adjustments are made by turning the wheel to the proper tension. Spinning reels have two types

of drags - front drag and a rear drag. Front drags are generally smoother than a rear drag. The front



drag features larger, multiple disc drag washers on the spool that offer a higher level of performance

and durability. The rear drag uses applied pressure on the drive shaft. Rear drag spinning reels may

offer convenience and ease of use, but they normally don’t stand up to big fish and demanding

conditions like front drag reel models. Lever drags are a available feature on high end (expensive)

trolling and baitcasting reels. Lever drags allows the tension to be adjusted in more precise smaller

increments which supplies a smoother fish fighting performance.

As a rule always check your drag before your first cast.Pull the line with your hand, if you have a

decent amount of resistance, you should be fine. In cases where you hook a exceptional sized fish the

drag should be adjusted (increased) as you feel the size of the fish. Another tip to reduce reel

maintenance; when storing your reels for a extended amount of time, back off the drag tension setting.

Leaving drag settings tight will cause the drag washers to become flat reducing the tension ability.

GEAR RATIOS:

All reel manufactures list the gear ratio on their products. The gear ratio refers to how many

revolutions the spool of the reel makes per one complete turn of the reel handle. For instance a high

speed reel with a 6:1 ratio will make 6 revolutions versus a low speed reel at 3:1 with 3 revolutions per

each turn of the reel handle. Generally low speed reels are best suited for lures that require a slow

presentation and greater cranking power such as crank baits for bass and pike, and large muskie baits.

High speed reels are better for working lures quickly when the angler seeks speed for "burning"

bucktails, spinnerbaits, and lipless crank baits. Reels with the range of 5.1 are the best compromise if

purchasing a single reel. Another alternative is a two speed reel that the angler can shift from high

speed to low speed with a simple push or pull of a button.

LEVEL WIND: Found on most baitcasting and trolling reels as the name implies, the level wind feature automatically

places the line evenly or level across on the spool upon retrieving the line. On low profile and smaller

round baitcasting reels the line guide will remain in its' position when casting, on larger round bait

casting reels the line guide will follow the line when casting. This offers the angler the convenience of

not manually guiding the line on the spool, which if not properly done will usually pile up in the center

of the spool.

LINE CAPACITY:

Printed on the reel or it's package is a guideline of the amount of fishing line that the spool of the reel

will hold. This chart is based on the use of monofilament line and will look like this: 8/(175) 10/(155)

12/(130) the first number is the lb test followed by the amount of yards. This indicates the line rating

set by the manufacturer for 8-12 lb test line to work correctly without either stressing parts or making

it difficult to use.

By varying the pound test line on the reel such as placing 40lb on a reel rated for 8lb-12lb will give

you an inadequate amount of line due to the increased line thickness making the reel difficult to cast as

well as increasing the stress and eventual failure on the drag (By setting the drag too tight) With the

advent of new fishing lines with increased lb test and reduced diameters we still recommend that you

follow guideline placed on the reel by the reel company.

LINE COUNTERS:

This reel feature is found exclusively on trolling reels. It allows a reference by which anglers can

consistently return a bait to the same depth or distance from the boat when flat line trolling or rigging

(Downriggers, Dipsey Divers and Trolling Boards) There are two types of reel line counters, Analog

and Digital. Analog line counters resemble car odometers, clicking off numbers as the spool revolves.

Digital line counters provide the same line usage reading as the analog but can also be programmed for



differences in line thickness accounting for impressive accuracy. Line counters are also very useful on

how much line is left on your reel after a fish makes a run.

LINE OUT ALARM:

This feature is a audible alarm alerting the angler of a fish strike also known as a clicker or bait alarm.

A simple on-off switch is used in the free spool mode. Always disengage the clicker when retrieving

or casting. Line out alarms are available on baitcasting and spinning reels. They are mainly used for

presenting live/cut bait on the ocean and freshwater muskie fishing using suckers.

ON / OFF FREE SPOOL LEVER:

On trolling reels there is a simple on/off lever that when switched on engages the reel for retrieving the

line, when switched off it is in free spool allowing the angler to let the line run off the reel using a bait

or lure. Always keep your thumb on the free spool to control the amount of line released to prevent a

backlash.

REEL HOUSINGS AND FRAMES:

Most reel housings and frames are constructed of either aluminum (die-cast or forged) or

graphite. Each of these materials has its advantages and disadvantages, reels made of anodized

aluminum are generally stronger and more durable than the graphite models, however, they are

heavier. Graphite-bodied reels are light and corrosion resistant, yet they normally don’t offer the same

strength and durability as die-cast or forged aluminum fishing reels. Due to the nature of a spinning

reel's design, their bodies are composed of multiple pieces. Many conventional baitcasting reels are

also constructed in the same fashion; however, some manufacturers have introduced one-piece

graphite frames. This design increases the overall integrity and strength of the reel, while maintaining

the lighter weight.

SPOOLS:

When selecting a reel the material type and design of the spool should be a point of consideration.

There are two common materials used, machined anodized aluminum and graphite. Of the two the

anodized aluminum spool offers greater strength and durability than graphite spools, which can break

or crack under torque. On many baitcasting aluminum spools holes have been drilled in to reduce the

weight while increasing casting distance. For big water heavy duty fishing large baitcasting and

trolling spools are made from metal, using bronze or stainless steel that will offer the strength and

capacity required for specialty lines such as heavy dacron or wire used for trolling. Spinning reels

today feature a "skirted" spool that overlaps the reel frame, preventing the line to become entangled

with in the reel housing. Other skirted spinning reel spool options offers a choice of a standard spool,

or a shallower, elongated "long cast" spool design. In theory, the newer long-cast spool design allows

for reduced line friction, resulting in greater casting distance.

FISHING RODS:

Fishing Rods have evolved over the years, from the early days using natural materials with fixed

fishing lines such as sticks, bamboo and cane poles to rods using steel or fiberglass to the rods of today

using graphite or composites of graphite, fiberglass, boron and carbon. With this development of the

rod materials came the specialty rods, rods designed for a fishing technique or lure such as jigging,

jerkbait, worm, pitchin, flippin, crank baits, trolling, top water etc… the specialty rods are a specific

tool, used and developed by tournament and pro anglers, for the recreational angler the catch rate will

not increase based on having a specialty rod or rods, but place a specialty rod in the hands of an

experienced fisherman in presenting a certain bait or lure and with their knowledge of fishing it will

give them the edge in catching more fish.



As the old cliché states: "You get what you pay for" For the recreational angler we recommend

spending as much as your budget allows, the better the rod the more sensitive it will be, the more

responsive it will be, you will be able to cast farther feel structure, rocks, weeds and the most

important feel fish strikes. Part of being a better angler is the ability to place your lure/bait exactly

where you want it, often as quietly as possible, and a good rod will definitely help you accomplish

this. With the numerous rod selections available today here’s a few suggested basic rod buying tips

that will cover multiple fishing presentations.

5‘-6"-6‘-0" Spincast Rod

Power: Light

Action: Soft

Lure Weight

Test Line Rating 4lb-8lb

Fishing: Panfish (Crappies Perch Bluegills) and Walleye. Spooled with 6lb test. Good combo set-up

for children and novice anglers for easy casting and bobber fishing.

7‘-0" Spinning Rod

Power: Light

Action: Soft

Lure Weight 1/32 - 1/8oz

Test line rating 4lb-6lb

Fishing: Panfish (Crappies Perch Bluegills) and early season Walleye spooled with 4lb test

monofilament for Float(Bobbers) with live-bait, small jigs and light lures 1/16-1/8oz.

7’-0" Spinning Rod

Power: Medium Light-Medium

Action: Moderate

Lure Weight 1/8 - 3/8oz

Test Line rating 8lb-12lb

Fishing: Walleye and Bass spooled with 8lb test monofilament for live bait and soft plastic bottom

rigs, jigs, tubes and mid weight lures 1/8-3/8oz.

6’-6"-7’-0" Baitcasting Rod

Power: Medium-Medium Heavy

Action: Fast

Lure Weight 3/8 - 1 oz

Test line rating 10lb-17lb

Fishing: Bass and Northern Pike spooled with 12lb-15lb test monofilament with a leader primarily for

heavier artificial lures 3/8-1oz (spoons, crankbaits, inline spinners, spinner baits, topwater)

Length: 7’-0"

Type: Baitcasting Rod

Power: Extra Heavy

Action: Fast

Lure Weight: 1-3oz

Test line rating: 25lb +

Fishing: Northern Pike and Muskies spooled with 50lb-80lb braided line with a leader

for presenting heavy lures 1oz and up ( inline spinners, spinner baits, jerk baits, gliders, crank baits,

top water)



ROD MATERIALS:

Fiberglass: Fiberglass rods have been popular since the 1950’s taking over the era of steel rods, in

terms of performance and features fiberglass does lack the sensitivity of the newer rods today made

from graphite and weighs more, but is noted for it’s toughness and soft/moderate action. Some anglers

use fiberglass when fishing crank baits for the slow action and muskie anglers use fiberglass in cold

weather for quick strike rig sucker fishing where the rod sensitivity is not required but the toughness

(setting the hook especially in very cold weather and not breaking the rod) is needed. Fiberglass is also

a very good choice for children starting out in fishing where durability is an issue.

GRAPHITE:

Graphite rod building started in the 1970’s and has continued to this day. Most all quality rods today

are built using graphite and have become the preferred choice for rod blank builders. The benefits of

graphite rods are many, they're extremely light, sensitive and flexible, which is vital for light biting

fish, along with being strong and powerful to handle larger game fish.

In marketing graphite rods a few common terms have been developed to associate the quality of the

rod. The first is "modulus graphite rating", graphite comes in what looks like sheets of cloth, the cloth

is measured to determine the amount and stiffness to weight of modulus fibers. If your shopping for a

new rod don’t base your decision solely on the modulus rating, the higher the rating the better the rod.

For high performance rods the combination of fiber strength, resin toughness with the amount of fiber,

resin and cross-scrim construction (overlapping layers to achieve exceptional strength and action) are

more important than the modulus count or rating. Rods with high graphite modulus ratings tend to be

brittle and need to have a secondary chemical added on the blank to increase the strain/strength rate.

This is called a composite blank. The other term that rod companies use to identify a blank style is IM

with a following number such as IM6 or 7 and currently up to 10. The IM rated rods are not regulated

by industry standards or an indication of quality but rather a trade name for particular graphite

produced by the Hexcel Corporation. Since some rod companies use the IM designation ratings to

refer to their rod blanks that are not supplied by Hexcel, at least you can compare the rods built by the

same manufacturer, being assured that the higher the IM ranking the higher the graphite quality of the

rod.

ROD RATINGS: ACTION / POWER

Action refers to the flex characteristics of a rod, in other words how much

the rod bends when you put pressure on the tip and how far the rod flexes.

Action ranges from extra fast where just the tip flexes to slow or softer

where the majority of the rod flexes. Fast action rods are the best choice

when the fishing technique requires the sensitivity of feeling light biting

fish or when fishing for large game fish in heavy cover and weeds where

the key is to setting the hook fast with just a snap of the wrist moving the

fish’s head up and away. For instance, fast action light rods are used for

jigs, soft plastic worms or twitching minnow/shad shaped crank baits for

bass and walleye. Heavier fast action rods are used for Muskies & Pike in

burning bucktails, walking top water lures or a cadence retrieve on gliders

and jerkbaits. The moderate action rod is the most common choice due to

the versatility of fishing applications, in casting a moderate action rod it

will bend for about half of it’s length which will provide more casting

distance and still have the capability for a adequate hookset. Ideal for slip

bobbers/floats live bait for walleye fishing because the fish is less likely

to feel resistance from the soft tip and drop the bait, along with reaction

lures such as crank baits, spinner baits and spoons for bass and pike



where the slower action will not pull the lure out of the fish’s mouth. Slow or Soft Action rods will

bend starting in the lower third using nearly the entire rod providing the most flexibility. Because of

this parabolic action the angler is using the rod as a shock absorber in fighting the fish, this allows the

use of very light line. These rods are used for panfish especially for the paper thin mouths on crappies

so the hook is not ripped clear on hooksets, and are also popular for drift fishing spawn sac’s on trout

and salmon streams.

POWER:

A rod’s power describes how much a rod will flex under a load also referred as a rod’s "backbone".

The thickness and type of rod material will determine this, power ratings are usually described as

heavy, medium heavy, medium, light, etc… some rod companies use a numerical system 1-10 with

1=Ultra Light-10= Extra Heavy. The rod’s power rating is closely related to the suggested line

strength. It is important to follow the line test guideline limits printed on the rod since a heavy power

rod will snap light lines too easily and heavy lines can snap a light rod. Another factor to consider is

the fishing presentation, muskie, pike, and bass in weeds and cover will require a strong power rod

using heavier line, on open water where hard to see light line is used for walleyes and crappies use a

lighter power rod. Quite often anglers get confused with rod power ratings and action. As a example

the power rating is listed on the rod, the flex of the rod is considered the action.

ROD LINE GUIDES:

These are the circular loops affixed to the rod and run the length of the rod blank, The concept is

simple, keeping the line from touching the rod, this offers a smooth surface for the line to pass over.

The technology of rod guide designs has improved dramatically over the years from the old metal

guides and the classic agate inserts of earlier rods. Most of the new guides today are made of two

parts: a metal frame (stainless) attached to the rod blank and some form of a insert (inner ring) using

Ceramic, Alconite, Silicon Carbide or Hardloy. Some rods use line guides made of all stainless steel

wire instead of inserts, these guides are lighter reducing the overall rod weight, but they are not as

smooth as rods using inserts. The newest line guide introduced is made from titanium wire, which will

spring back even if they're bent flat unlike the stainless guide that will break. The overall purpose of

the rod line guides manufactured today is to provide less friction along with reducing the line fray and

wear in the guides during the cast. Less friction means longer casts and less heat, and heat definitely

doesn’t help when it comes to fishing lines. The total amount of line guides on a rod are a important

feature as well, the higher amount of guides the better, as they ensure distance on the cast, and when

fighting a fish the energy/ stress on the rod is dispersed though out the entire rod blank. Depending of

the rod power rating line guides are available in two different styles, single and double foot. Single

foot guides adds less weight on the rod and help retain sensitivity, these are used for mainly ultra -

light to medium power rods. The double foot line guides are used when sensitivity is not required but

strength is as they are wrapped twice on the rod blank. These are found on heavy to extra heavy power

rods used for larger game fish.

HANDLE / REEL SEATS:

The combination of a quality rod handle and reel seat are as important as the rod blank itself. The reel

seat is where the reel is attached to the rod and constructed of graphite and aluminum or both. Graphite

is lighter and more sensitive, while aluminum is stronger. Some reel seats offer a cutout that allows

direct finger contact on the rod blank for greater sensitivity. The rod handle is also referred to as

"grips" and are located below and above the reel seat. Cork is the preferred choice on rod handles as it

is lightweight, durable, and transmits rod vibrations even when wet better than synthetic materials

using EVA foam. There are varying grades of cork based on the rod’s cost, the higher the rod price the

better quality of cork used. Another alternative is cork tape to achieve the look of cork. Composite

cork is made by combining a mixture of cork particles and resin, this combination is more durable than

using straight cork.



Fishing Line & Leaders

Fishing line is by far the utmost important fishing equipment component for anglers, as the line is

the direct connection between the fisherman and the fish. Using the proper line in presenting lures or

live bait, upon hooking a fish and landing the fish is the key to a successful catch. Yet many anglers

are not aware about the new types of lines available today each with it’s own special use and qualities

including stretch, flexibility, knot strength, visibility, breaking strength, diameter and abrasion

resistance.

Modern day fishing lines are made entirely from artificial materials including nylon, polyethylene,

dacron, spectra, dyneema, polyvinyl chloride, wire, and lead. The manufacturing of fishing lines vary

from using a extrusion process, melting and mixing of polymers which is formed into a strand through

a die forming monofilament, fluorocarbon or copolymer fishing line. Braided line is made by braiding

or weaving man-made materials such as fibers of dacron, dyneema, spectra. Wire line used on copper

and stainless steel are also braided forming stranded lines Thermally fused lines are

made of dyneema/spectra that is twined or clustered together to form a single line.

No brand of line is perfect for all fishing conditions. In choosing the best line for the type of fish being

targeted one must consider many factors, the size and species of fish along with the type of fishing

presentation and the most important matching the line to the tackle (rod-reel-lure-bait) used.

Understanding each of the line types and when to use them will increase one’s fishing success.

Here is a breakdown of each fishing line by type:

Monofilament: In 1935 nylon was discovered by DuPont, made public in 1938 as a new invention, this created a

group of synthetic super polymers that are commonly used in textile manufacturing today. In 1939

DuPont began making nylon monofilament fishing line that was primitive by today’s standards (stiff

and heavy) as braided line was considered still the popular choice by anglers. Over the next two

decades improvements where made (added flexibility, uniform quality and thinner diameter) which

increased the popularity with the fishing community.

Today monofilament is the most commonly used fishing line accounting most of the line sold today. It



offers the angler versatility, as it is available in a selection of colors: red, yellow, green, blue, clear and

fluorescent along with degrees of flexibility, stiffness and abrasion resistant qualities. It can be spooled

on spinning, baitcasting and spincast reels. Monofilament is best used on shallower water

presentations than deepwater fishing due to it’s high stretch and water absorption factors resulting in

loose knots and lack of sensitivity.

Walleye and bass anglers use colored mono line when fishing jigs and soft plastic’s to detect strikes by

watching the line, conversely live bait fisherman like thin flexible translucent mono for a natural

presentation, on discolored water they favor fluorescent, on clearer water clear or green is preferred.

For casting lures around cover and rocky area’s abrasion resistant lower stretch clear line is

recommended.

With all of the options monofilament offers there are some line maintenance to follow, All

monofilament have a memory, which means if the line is stored on a reel for a extended amount of

time it will form to the shape around the reel spool. When this occurs in casting it will come off the

reel in loops or coils. The other is the combination of sun or heat, storing your rod & reel outfit in a

garage / shed over the hot summer months or leaving it outside exposed to the heat sun will

deteriorate the line making it weak and brittle, if the line has developed a chalky type film it is time to

be replaced. Finally in buying monofilament line stay with the known recognized brands than the

cheap off brands bulk spools, as the cheaper brands don’t receive the quality control, proper additives

and attention during the manufacturing process as the premium grade lines receive.

Fluorocarbon:

Fluorocarbon fishing leaders originated in Japan, where the Japanese are extremely detailed about the

presentation of their bait. The Japanese fish under heavy pressured conditions and make every attempt

to make their presentations as real and lifelike as possible. They pride themselves on their ability to do

this, and willingly spend more money to do so.

Ultimately, U.S. anglers began using fluorocarbon leaders, primarily in saltwater and fly fishing

applications, for the same reason the Japanese were using it – low visibility. It caught on when anglers

reported catching more fish with it. However, leaders are stiff and very expensive. Now, application of

fishing line technologies has produced more flexible fluorocarbon at affordable prices.

Fluorocarbon is a polymer consisting of fluorine, a common element that is chemically bonded with

carbon, another common element, to create a polymer that can be formed by molding, extrusion or

other heat processes thus the name fluorocarbon.

It is inert, so it resists deterioration by the sun and most chemicals found on fishing boats such as,

gasoline, battery acid or DEET (common ingredient found in insect repellents).

A density of 1.6, meaning it is heavier than water and sinks, which will enable lures to dive deeper and

faster than monofilament fishing lines.

Abrasion resistant against rocks, docks, logs etc.

It is also almost invisible underwater with a light refractive index of 1.42 the same as water, the light

passes through the line not reflecting back.

Non-absorbing, because fluorocarbon does not absorb water, it will not weaken or increase in stretch

like monofilament fishing lines



Stretch resistance – fluorocarbon stretches slower and less than monofilament, particularly when

compared to wet mono making it much more sensitive

The popularity of fluorocarbon line used by anglers today is evident by the features listed above.

Fluorocarbon offer’s the best advantage in clear water situations where fish are heavily pressured or

slow to bite in finesse situations.

Copolymer: In the mid 1980’s copolymer fishing line was introduced. The process called copolymerization, is a

combination of two or more nylon monomers to create a copolymer during the extrusion. The outcome

of this resulted in a material that has additional benefits than monofilament. Copolymer fishing line

features are smaller line diameters, abrasion resistant, have a lower stretch factor, high tensile strength,

higher impact and greater shock resistance. Over the years new formulas have been added notably the

addition of fluorocarbon which adds invisibility stealth factor to the line.

Braided: During the industrial period from the early 1900’s modern machinery was developed to manufacture

braided fishing lines, this was considered the first commercial fishing line made in quantity. Silk was

the common used material with many maintenance issues, after a day of fishing silk lines had to be un-

spooled off the reel, washed and hung up to dry in order to prevent dry rot. Over the wars years two

new synthetic fibers were developed and employed as fishing line, first Rayon considered at that time

a artificial silk, then Dacron a polymer fiber know as polyester. The invention of braided fishing line

was also instrumental in the development as a coated or wrapped component of specialty fishing lines

such as fly lines, lead core trolling lines and for ice fishing tip up lines.

Braided lines are extremely strong, very abrasion resistant, low stretch and absorbs less water allowing

greater sensitivity even when wet unlike monofilament. It also has no memory so it won’t come off

your reel in coils and it doesn’t weaken from direct sunlight. Dacron braided line is still made today

but with the advancements of monofilament along with the introduction of the new hybrid lines it has

decreased in popularity by anglers and now primarily used for deep water trolling along with backing

on fly reels.

In the early 1990s fishing line companies began adding new man made fibers to their braiding process

such as Dyneema, and Spectra this created a new category of braided lines referred as " Super Braids

- Multifilament" ( by combining multiple fibers together during the process of braiding) the new

synthetic fibers are thread like thin, very strong, pliable but yet abrasion resistant and have little

stretch. The common factor of all of the new super braids today is to provide the angler with the

smallest diameter (ultrathin -microdiameter) with the highest break strength. The benefits of the super

braids are numerous, in casting artificial lures they dive deeper and faster with longer casts due to the

thin diameter, with the low stretch it telegraphs strikes instantly to the rod tip for a immediate hook

set, along with the high break strength it is the primary line used by fisherman targeting big fish such

as Muskie, Pike, Stripers, Catfish and Saltwater anglers.

In spooling super braids on reels you have two options to prevent line slipping, better casting and less

backlashes. If you choose to spool your reel entirely with a super braid tie the line on the reel arbor,

wrap a piece of electrical tape over the line and complete the spooling with tension applied, the other

option is using monofilament as a line backing spooled on the reel arbor first and tied using a uni-knot

to the super braid also applying tension upon spooling. (The lb test of mono should match the diameter

of the super braid for uniformity and tying) Using a line backing conserves line usage as well as filling

the spool, take in to account that super braids have small line diameters and the line filling amounts

listed on the reel are based on monofilament diameters. Use the lb/yards amount listed on your reel as



a guide for spooling the super braid; for instance if a 50lb super braid has the diameter equivalent of

12lb mono and the line capacity on the reel is 175 yds/12lb with the filler spool at 150 yards you will

need to add approximately 20 yards of mono backing. As with all fishing lines the proper amount to

fill a reel spool is within 1/8 of a inch from the top of the spool rim.

Fused: With the popularity of the new super braids incorporating the many features that Dyneema and Spectra

micro fibers achieve: ultra thin diameter, low stretch and high tensile strength. Innovative fishing line

companies realized this and introduced a new manufacturing process called fusion. Fused line are

multiple layers of microfilament gel spun polyethylene fibers fused/twined together to produce a

single strand of line. The end results are a high performance line, ultra thin, superior strength,

very sensitive with good abrasion resistance.

Fly Line: Today’s fly lines consist of two components the inner core and outer coating. The inner core is made

from a braid or monofilament line, the core determines the line strength, stretch and stiffness, The

outer coating is wrapped around the core in a thick water proof sheath, often of PVC polyvinyl

chloride. Imbedded in the outer core will determine the classification of floating or sinking line.

Floating line has encased micro bubbles allowing the line to float, sinking line has impregnated

density micro particles such as powdered tungsten to weigh the line for a controlled sink rate. Almost

all fly lines are made in such a way so they have a taper that helps the casting process and presenting

the fly lure for the angler. Fly line tapers have four major categories: Weight Forward , Double Taper

Shooting Taper and Level. Of the four, two are the most popular Weight Forward and Double

Tapered.

In order to spool a fly reel properly there are a set of steps to follow along with a knowledge of basic

fishing knots. First the fly line backing (The fly reel instructions will provide the suggested amount of

backing) which is usually composed of braided Dacron using 20-30lb test, this is secured to the reel

spool by using a Arbor Knot. As most fly lines today are under a 100 yards this will ensure a adequate

reserve in case of a run by large game fish as well as filling the spool to the proper capacity. The next

step is the main fly line this is connected to the backing using a Albright Knot. Since the line backing

(Dacron) and the fly line (plastic) are different materials the Albright Knot will slide easily through the

line guides. The final steps are attaching the leader (typically tapered) of monofilament or

fluorocarbon using a nail knot which provides a clean and straight connection from the fly line, and

next is the tippet the section of monofilament between your fly and leader. Being that the leader and

the tippet are two similar diameters a Double Surgeons knot is suitable. Finally the fly lure is attached

to the tippet using a Improved Clinch Knot. As you assemble the fly line set-up make sure you moisten

all the knots when drawing them tight slowly, always test each knot by giving a good hard pull, this

will reduce the chance of knot failure. Be sure to replace leaders and tippets as they show any wear or

abrasion.

Fly Line Maintenance: Fly lines do have a life span, even with all of the new fly line technology prevalent today. With out

proper care and maintenance a fly line (dependent on use) will only last one season or less. Here’s a

few tips and pointers to extend the life of your fly line.

Cleaning your fly line:

All leading fly line manufacturers build a lubricant inside of the outer coating. Line performance,

however, depends on the condition of the coating. The coating is slightly porous, it slowly releases the

lubricant, keeping the line slick and floating. From casting the fly line will pick up suspended

particulate in the water such as algae and dirt from stripping the line when your fishing from the shore.



This clogs the line pores preventing the lubricant from doing it's job as the line will not float as well or

slide through the rod guides easily. This can be remedied by cleaning your fly line with a clean damp

cloth and some mild soap, by wiping down the amount of line you use on a cast. Always keep your fly

line away from direct contact with insect repellants (Deet) suntan lotions, and any type chemicals or

solvents, fuel or excessive heat. Never cast without a leader, avoid stepping on the stripped line and

always check your reel for pinched line between the spool and the reel frame. In storing your fly line

on your reel if it develops line memory and comes off in coils simply remove the line and slowly give

it a stretch, it should revert back to perform perfectly.

Fly Line Selections: For the beginning fly fishing angler there are a multitude line choices available today which can be

confusing to say the least. Floating or sinking, the weight of line and the numerous different taper

configurations. The fly line, not the lure size determines the rated fly rod and reel set-up. Your best bet

in the selection process of a fly rod outfit is first to research the fishing presentation and species you

are fishing for most of the time and match the recommended set-up. Fortunately fly fishing tackle

manufactures have adapted a universal numerical measurement scale to classify fly line weight to the

specific rod and type of fly fishing. The scale ranges from 1-14 with 1 the lightest to 14 the heaviest.

With this information any good fly fishing pro shop will be able to assist you in setting up your fly

fishing outfit. For instance if you intend to fish mainly for sunfish on ponds or small streams for trout

a five or six weight line and rod would be the choice if you target pike and bass using larger fly lures

or streamers you should consider a eight or nine weight rod. Using the correct fly line matched to the

rod is critical for proper fly casting, if you use too heavy of line this will cause "overloading" causing

the leader to turn over and bounce back to the angler, too light of line will inhibit the rod to load and

will not be able to flex in the casting process causing short non controlled cast.

Lead Core (Weighted Trolling Line)

Lead Core line came on to the fishing scene during the 1970’s as weighted trolling line. This allowed

Salmon, Lake Trout, Steelhead and Walleye anglers the ability to use light weight shallow running

lures such as spoons, balsa and plastic minnow lures to reach depths were the fish are present. Lead

Core is constructed of two components, the inner wire made of soft pliable lead and the outer sheath of

nylon braid which is color coated every ten yards for metering purposes referred as the term colors.

Recently a new environmentally safe non lead line was introduced using a metal alloy wire in lieu of

lead. Weighted trolling lines are available in 100 - 200 yard spools ranging from 12lb to 45 lb test

ratings.

The amount of weighted trolling line spooled on your reel is totally dependent on the species of fish

you are targeting by the depth required, as a example Great Lakes walleye anglers may use 30 yards of

weighted line or three colors were as a salmon angler may spool the entire 200 yards or twenty colors.

The approximate rule dependent on the lb test is every two yards of weighted line will sink one foot.

The only reel type to be used for weighted trolling line is a conventional level wind trolling reel, the

line capacity is based on the species ( smaller for walleyes larger for salmon). In spooling the reel a

line backing should always be used this also helps to fill the reel to the proper line amount. The most

popular line backing used today is the super braids which is tied to the weighted line using a Albright

knot, after the weighted line is spooled a monofilament/fluorocarbon leader is tied using a Uni-knot.(

Note: When tying backing or a leader to lead core remove the inner wire) This entire line set-up is

referred as "segmented" which when properly used places the weighted line and lure at the feeding

depth of fish. Trolling weighted (lead core) line is a technical presentation requiring a level of

expertise and knowledge. If your considering using this trolling technique your success would be best

served if you research the fishery and species before purchasing the proper equipment.



Wire: Wire is another trolling line option especially if your fishing presentation requires to go very deep.

Wire lines come in a variety of choices, solid and stranded. Solid wire know as Monel is a metal nickel

copper alloy which will go deeper than stranded based on the ultra thin line diameter and weight.

Stranded offers many versions made of stainless steel or copper, in cable-laid wire, 49 strand, three

and seven strand wire some of these come with vinyl coatings used mainly as leader material. One of

most popular wire line for freshwater fishing is the seven stranded six wrapped or braided around one.

Copper seven strand is utilized as a alternative to lead core where as the weight of copper is double

than lead core this achieves the same depth of lead core with only half the amount of line. The

advantages of using wire line are numerous when compared to other conventional lines such as

braided or monofilament, wire line with the weight and the ultra low diameter cuts through the water

easily getting deeper using less line, it also has very low line stretch thus telegraphing fish strikes as

they happen.

Getting set-up with a wire line outfit requires all special equipment, reels are trolling level wind with a

metal or stainless steel spool to accommodate wire line, rods require hardened line guides that wire

won't cut along with a roller tip or all line guides using rollers. We highly recommend if you're

looking to use wire as a trolling outfit, go to a pro shop that specializes in wire line rods and reels. One

of the most common problems in using wire starts with correctly spooling the backing and wire on the

reel to the proper level. Fishing wire with the proper knowledge and set-up will add another dimension

to your arsenal increasing your catch rate.

Tip-Up Line: (Backing)

Tip Up’s are a fishing tool used for ice fishing, tip up’s are built from plastic or wood which lay on the

ice, underneath the tip up the reel is submerged in the water. On the reel most ice fishing anglers use a

line backing of 20lb to 40lb test to fill the spool, then attach various different types of leader materials,

such as seven strand wire, coated wire, monofilament or fluorocarbon. The line backing on tip ups

are waterproofed by either coating a braid using Teflon or plastic vinyl wrapped over a braid. The

purpose behind the waterproof backing is not to let the line to freeze on the reel, upon a strike allowing

a fish to run with the bait (free spool) until the angler set’s the hook. Also with the heavier lb test it is

easier to handle in cold weather and are less prone to tangle on the ice.

Line Maintenance / Spooling your reel:

Line replacement is highly important yet often neglected, this is commonly overlooked as some

angler's feel the existing line on the reel is sufficient. In writing this we can attest to the numerous

times trophy fish where lost due to line breakage, in asking when the line was changed the response

was similar "never" or "years ago". Line degradation is caused by numerous different effects, some are

environmental such as exposed to sunlight and heat for a extended amount of time other's are physical,

line scraping across rocks, logs, docks or other lake structure. For practical purposes most line wear

occurs in the first few feet from your lure or bait, periodically check this by running your line between

your fingers, if you feel any nicks, frays or twists remove that section of line and retie. All fishing line

needs to be replaced at one point, as fishing line becomes wet and dry over time it eventually breaks

down and wears out. Depending on the amount of fishing you do will determine line changing

frequency, tournament anglers and pro guides replace line daily, other fisherman that spend a lot of

time on the water replace line weekly or monthly. As a general rule fishing line should be at least re-

spooled annually.

Filling A Revolving-Spool Reel:

Baitcasting and trolling reels are the easiest to spool up, especially if you ask a friend to help you. Just



remember to maintain a moderate, consistent tension on the line at all times (by gently pinching the

line between your thumb and forefinger) to avoid loose wraps that might cause tangling later.

1)Insert a pencil into the supply spool to allow the fishing line to feed smoothly off the spool. Have

someone hold each end of the pencil while you turn the reel handle. Your helper should maintain

slight inward pressure on the supply spool to prevent it from overrunning, and to keep proper tension

on the line.

2) Fill the reel within 1/4-inch of the outer rim of the revolving spool. Don't overfill.

Filling A Spinning Reel:

Because the spool of a spinning reel does not rotate, you should use this method to prevent putting a

twist in the line.

1. Pull old line off reel through line guides until you have enough room on spool for new line. If this is

a new reel or if you wish to completely place new line on the spool your reel use an arbor knot to tie

your line onto the spool.

2. If your leaving existing line always leave some line from spool through rod guides and past end of

rod to tie new line to.

3. Tie new line to end of old line with a blood knot or a uni-knot

4. Lay spool of new line of floor so line comes off spool just like it goes on reel spool

5. Hold line tight with hand not turning reel handle just above reel

6. Reel line onto reel slowly, making sure it is spooled firmly

7. After about 12 turns allow some slack between the supply spool of line and your rod to be sure you

are not getting line twist. If the line is twisting flip the supply spool over. Check this periodically

because spinning reels automatically put twist in your line.

Filling a Closed-Faced Spin-Cast Reel

Fill a closed-faced spin-cast reel the same way you would a spinning reel, except remember to thread

the line through the hole in the front of the reel. Spin-cast reels do not hold very much line, so remove

the reel cover partway every now and then to make sure you do not overfill the enclosed spool.

Leaders:

Using a proper leader can be the difference between a successful fishing trip and one that ends up so to

speak in the tank. Yes, they are that important. Leaders are often one of the most overlooked pieces of

equipment that we use. Leaders are the segment of material attached between the fishing line and the

lure or bait. It is what connects you and your equipment to the lure and hopefully with some luck, your

catch.

Leaders are made of a variety of materials today such as: single strand wire, seven strand wire, coated

or uncoated, stainless steel wire, titanium, hard monofilament, and fluorocarbon. They are also

availible in various lengths and sizes as well. Some are ready to tie onto your mainline and clip on a

lure and start fishing, where other applications may require you to tie it onto your mainline or attach or

tie your own lure on. You must use the right application for the right type of fishing you will be doing.



Obviously you dont want to use a large musky leader to go walleye fishing nor do you want to bring a

small walleye or pike leader to use when you are after trophy musky. Your leader can be the strongest

or the weakest link in your set up, so you must give just as important care in choosing the correct

leader for the job at hand as you would determining which lure to use.

Most tackle shops will carry a variety of leaders to choose from. Always be sure to consider what the

weight limit or pound test is on the leader you may be using. A rule of thumb to go by is to always

remember the lighter leader you use the higher your risk of being bit off or having leader failure can

be. Not to say using a light leader is wrong, however just understand that you may have to be willing

to accept the consequences. Once you determine what pound test you are going to go with, consider

the hardware that is on the leader. Some leaders are tied, some are crimped, some are both. This pretty

much boils down to personal preferance, and in time you will figure out what you are most

comfortable using.

Take a look at the swivels, make sure they move freely and that they apear to be large enough or small

enough to handle the task at hand. Same care to be given when choosing a proper snap. Consider the

size lure you will be using and make sure the snap doesnt open and close too easily. The last thing you

want is for it to come open on that trophy fish of a lifetime. If there is too much to choose from and

you simply cannot figure it out ask a store employee for a hand and they can help you make the right

selection.

So the next time you are ready to go fishing and need to run into your local sporting goods supply to

just grab some leaders, take a few extra minutes to do an inspection of what you are purchasing. It

might make the difference between a smiling photo or going home disapointed.



Fishing Knots

Your fishing line is only as strong as the knot used to tie it. Over time all knots start to weaken in some

degree. The ability to tie a correct knot will save you from losing lures, bait as well as a fish. Listed

below are good choices to learn and a few tips:

Always moisten the knot before snugging it up. This reduces the heat from friction that causes slight abrasions when you pull it tight.

When tying a knot give it a smooth strong pull to complete it on your lure, hook or leader. Don’t be timid about testing it with a couple good pulls. Better to know your knot is tied correctly than losing a big fish.

Always leave a little extra line before clipping the tag end after completing your knot some knots slip slightly. By leaving a little tag is good insurance that your knot is tied correctly.

Always retie your knot before a new trip and check your knot frequently when fishing, all knots will weaken with use.

Arbor Knot

Improved Clinch Knot

Spider Hitch

Palomar Knot

Dropper Loop Knot

Albright Knot

Float Stop Knot

Surgeon's Knot

Uni-to-Uni Knot

Snell Knot

Nail Knot

Trilene Knot

Blood Knot

http://www.fishinfo.com/fishing-information/article_107.shtml

























Arbor Knot

What it does: Its primary use is to attach fishing line to the arbor/spool of a fishing reel.

Why is it useful: It secures the fishing line on your reel arbor/spool

How to tie it:

1. An arbor knot is tied by first passing the line around the reel arbor.

2. The tag end is then tied in an overhand knot around the running line.

3. Finally, an overhand knot is tied in the tag end. When tightened, the

overhand knot in the tag end jams against the overhand knot tied around the

running line

Improved Clinch Knot

What It Does: Ties a medium- to heavy-weight line to

a lure, swivel, or hook.

Why It's Useful: Compared to a regular clinch knot,

it's much less likely to break when you've got a bigger

fish on the line. In fact, given that it only takes a few

seconds more to tie an Improved Clinch knot, there's no

reason to tie a regular clinch knot on anything but the lightest line.

How to Tie It:

1. Pass the line through the eye of hook, swivel or lure.

Double back and wrap the end 5 times around the standing line.

2. Holding the coils in place, thread end of line through

the first loop above the eye, then through the big loop.

3. Hold the tag end and standing line while coils are pulled up, making sure the coils do not

overlap each other. Slide tight against the eye and clip the end.



Spider Hitch

What It Does: Doubles a line for added strength.

Why It's Useful: Almost as strong (retaining over

80% of line strength) and much faster & easier

than a Bimini Twist. The one downside is that the

knot could cut the line if not tightened perfectly.

How To Tie It:

1. Double the line, then form a loop, holding it between your thumb and forefinger.

2. Wrap the doubled end 5 times around your thumb and the loop, taking care not to let go.

3. Pass the end through the loop.

4. Pull the loop slowly and steadily so thewound

sectionslides naturally off the thumb. Then pull on

both ends to tighten knot. Again, the knot must be

perfectly tightened (no overlapping coils!) or it will

cut itself.



Surgeon's Knot

What It Does: Securely ties together a line and a leader of very different diameters.

Why it's Useful: Strong, relatively simple to tie, and less likely than most knots to damage the thinner of the two lines.

How to Tie It:

1. Align the line and leader end-to-end, parallel to each other, with

6" to 8" of overlap.

2. Tie both lines in an overhand knot, as if they were a single piece of line, and pull the entire leader through the loop.

3. Without closing the loop, wrap both the tag end of line and leader around the loop again.

4. Pull both lines and both endstogether until theknot becomes tight. Clip closely to avoid

getting caught in guides.



Palomar Knot

What It Does: Attaches a hook or other terminal tackle to your line.

Why It's Useful: Among the strongest knots for its purpose, the Palomar is also fairly easy to tie.

How to Tie It:

1. Double four inches of line into a loop and pass it through the eye of your hook.

2 & 3. Allow the hook to dangle, and tie a loose over hand knot in the

doubled line, being careful NOT to twist the lines or tighten the knot.

4. Pull the line by its looped end far enough to pass it over the hook, swivel or lure.

5.Pulling at both ends of the line, tighten the knot. Clip off the tag end.



Dropper Loop Knot

What It Does: Creates a loop in a line while maintaining most of the line's strength.

Why It's Useful: Used to attach a second leader, lure, or fly to a line.

How to Tie It:

1. Make a circular loop in the line.

2. Wrap one end through the loop.

3. Where each end meets the loop, make3 to 5 twists as shown then - without letting the twists

unravel - pull the loopthrough the hole between the two sets of twists.

4.While holding the dropper loop in place (do not pull on the loop - just be sure it doesn't come out) pull on both ends of the line to bring the wraps together.



5. You now have a loop to which you may attach a bait, fly, or leader using another kind of knot.

Albright Knot

What It Does: Joins two lines (line & leader) of vastly different diameters.

Why It's Useful: Creates a much smaller and smoother connection

than a Surgeon's Knot without sacrificing strenght.The Albright is

far less likely to get caught in guides than a Surgeon's Knot. That said, it's also considerably more difficult to tie.

How to Tie It:

1. Start by doubling back a couple of inches ofthe heavierline and

hold the loop with your left thumb and forefinger. Runabout 10 inches of thethinner line through theloop.

2.While holding the loop, pinch thethinner linebetween your left

thumb and forefinger (without letting go of the loop), and use your

right hand to wrap the tag end of thelighter line back over both

strands of the heavier line as well as the lighter line itself. Start

next to your fingers and working toward the loop, wrapping it fairly

tightly 8 to 12 times.

3.Push the tag end of thelighter linethrough the loop on the

opposite side from where it originally ran it through the loop, so

both strands of the lighter lineexit on the same side of the loop. Pull

the standingend of the lighter line to remove the loop you were

holding between your leftthumb and index finger. Pull both ends of the lighter line.

4. Pull gently on both ends of the heavier,loopedline with your left hand, while sliding the knot back towards the loop with your right (but not all the way off).

5. Moisten the knot, then pull as tight as possible onboth strands of the heavy line with your left hand and both strands of the light line with your right hand.

6. Clip off the tag end of the fly line and the backing.



Float Stop Knot

What it Does: Creates a barrier to stop a float from sliding past a certain point on a line.

Why it's Useful: Prevents a float from running up

a line - essential for controlling your presentation

when float fishing. Use about 5 inches of nylon, of the same diameter as the line the float is on.

How to Tie It:

1. Wrap the line to be knotted 2 or 3 times around the line with the float.

2.Take either end of the line being knotted and

wrap them twice around each other, as if you're

tying a Suregon's Knot.

3.Pull ends to tighten.

Uni-to-Uni Knot

What it does: Ties two lines together, or else a braided line to a monofilament leader.If

usingsoft monofilament, just be aware that a braided line could potentially cut the leader. This

can beprevented (or at least slowed down) by using a loop for your free end on the braided line and otherwise tying the knot as described below.

Why it's useful: Highly versatile, the Uni-knot and variants like the Uni-to-Uni knot can be

used for everything from tying hooks to light line, to joining linesof vastly differenttest

strength (up to 10x different in some cases).Uni-knots also provide an unbeatable100 % knot

strength in most cases.



How to Tie It:

1. Overlap the two linesby roughly 6".With one end, form aloop and pinch it between your

thumb and forefinger, withaninch or two sticking out past your fingers.

2.Wrap the end six times aroundboth lines, passing through the large loop on the finalpass.

3. Pull the end to tighten the knot.

4. Repeatsteps1-3 withthe end of the other line.

5. Pull both ends to get the knots tighter, then trim if necessary.



Snell Knot

What it does: Connects a leader to a baited hook.

Why it's useful: Strong, reliable, and simple to tie.

Just note that you can only use the Snell knot with a leader.

How to Tie It:

1. Pass one end of the leader throungh the eye of the

hook so that it sticks outone or two inches past the eye,

towards the barb.Pinch the hook and leader

endtogether between your leftthumb and index finger

right where it exits the eye, make a large loop, then

hold the loop down so that enough is sticking out to wrap several times around the leader and hook shank.

2. Wrap the end tightly around the leader and hook

shank7 or 8times, towards the barb. On the final wrap,

pass the end back through the looped leader, so that it points towards the barb.

3. Grasping the end near the barb and the end on the other side of the eyelet, slowly pull the

leader until it is almost tight. Slide the loops up against the eye, then grip the short end with

pliers and completely tighten the knot. Trim the end hanging towards the barb.

Nail Knot

What it does: Used to attach leader butt to fly line or to attach backing to fly line

Why it's useful: The most popular knot for attaching

leaders and leader but to fly line, the nail knot has a

very smooth, low profile that allows it to slide easily

through guides. Though it doesn't necessarily require a

nail, you will need a tube of comparably narrow diameter

to tie it (e.g., a particularly thin ballpoint pen). The nail

knot is moderately complex, and not recommended for

big fish as it relies on the fly line's coating for strength,

but few other knots give you this smooth a connection.

How to Tie It:

1.Hold the nail/tube and the end of the fly line between the left thumb and forefinger ofyour

lefthand (with roughly 2"of the fly line and the tube sticking out). Take the heavier end of your

leader in yourright hand and form a 2" loop around the nail and fly line. Pinch the loop down

with your left hand, then wrap the leader 5 more times around the line, leader, and nail. Do it



tightly, so that the loops butt up against each other, and be sure to leave 1/2 to 3/4" of the end sticking out.

2.Grab all the loops with your left hand, then carefully slide the end of the leader back into the

opening, running alongside the nail. Then carefully remove the nail.

3. Pull gently on both ends of the leader (don't pull the fly line!) to partially tighten the knot.

Moisten, check the wraps to be sure they're smooth, then fully tighten the knot by pulling on

the leader until it "bites" into the fly line. Finally, "seat" the knot with one hard pull on the fly

line. Trim the ends, and you're done.

Trilene Knot

What it does: The Trilene Knot can be used to join line to swivels, snaps, hooks and lures.

Why it's useful: Easy to tie and very strong, the Trilene

Knot resists slippage better than most simple knots.

How to tie it:

1. Thread the line through the eye of the hook or lure, then

double back through the eye a second time.

2.Holding the hook or lure in your left hand, and the

standing line in your right hand,wrap the tag end around the

standing line 6 times, then pass the end through the loopcreated where you doubled back in

step 1.

3. Pull gently on the tag end and the standing line to tighten, moistening it with water while

you do so to lubricate the line (allowingthe loopsto slide together more easily). Trim tag end to

1/8 inch, and you're done.



Blood Knot

What it does: The blood knot is used for joining two lines of similar thicknesses.

Why it�s useful: An easy knot with a relatively low profile, a

blood knot can run smoothly through rod line guides, whereas other

comparably strong knots might get stuck. However, be advised that a blood knot will reduce overall line strength by around 40%.

How to tie it:

1. Cross over the ends of the lines by 6-8 inches and twist one of the lines 5 times (or more) around the other.

2. Bring the end back through the opening between the two lines, then repeat with steps 1 and 2 with the other end of the same line.

3. Make sure the ends are pointing in opposite directions after you

pass them through the opening, then pull.

4. Trim the ends, and there you have it� a blood knot.



Fishing with Hooks, Sinkers, Bobbers & Basic Rigging

With all of the advancements made today in the fishing world with “new lifelike fancy expensive lures

that flash and swim on their own” sometimes just a plain ol' hook, weight and bobber with a hunk of

worm, minnow or leech will catch more fish. One of the biggest mistakes made by the novice angler is

over rigging, using too large of a hook, heavier than needed weight with a oversized bobber presenting

a unnatural look, reduces the ability to detect fish strikes in their fishing presentation. The best

application is to select the lightest possible terminal tackle suitable for the condition and the species of

fish.

In this section we will review Terminal Tackle: Hooks, Weights, Bobbers (Floats) and Swivels.

How they are used and properly rigged for a successful set-up.

Carry your Terminal Tackle

Get organized with a rig box with small compartments. That way you can find the appropriate hook,

weight, bobber for most fishing situations.

Fishing Hooks As a rule, use the smallest hook possible. Small hooks allows the live-bait presentation to look natural.

Small hooks also penetrate quicker than larger hooks upon the fish strike. Always test your hook for

sharpness. Sharp hook points will catch more fish than dull hooks. To test your hook simply draw the

hook point across your fingernail, a sharp hook will leave a light scratch and digs in to your nail. A

dull hook will skate across your nail with out digging in. When necessary touch up the hook point by

using a hook file or sharpening stone, simply draw the hook sharpener against the point of your hook a

few times (parallel to the shank) on the bottom, and then take a couple of quick strokes to each side of

the hook

Don’t be misled that new hooks out of the box are always sharp especially the cheap hooks that are

made of soft poor quality steel. Even high quality hooks will dull over time and use by hitting rocks

and debris in the water.

Another option is to use chemically sharpened hooks. Many quality hook manufactures offer a line of

hooks that are made of higher grade steel and then dipped in a chemical bath which gives the hook a

super sharp hook point. These hooks can be expensive compared to conventional hooks, but the

advantage is a super sharp hook right out of the package. The bottom line is always use a sharp hook.

Hook Sizes When it comes to hook sizes it tends to be little confusing. There is no standard

when it comes to classifying a hook size, generally when a single number is used

such as size 12 verses a size 8 the higher the number the smaller the hook. The classification system ranges from 1 largest to 32 smallest. To make it more



confusing hooks that are sized using a fraction type, for example 5/0 ( pronounced five - aught) compared to a 1/0 the sizing system is reversed so the

higher the number the larger the hook. 1/0 is the smallest up to the largest hook at 19/0

The Anatomy of a Fish Hook

The parts fish hook are referred as: It’s point- the sharp end that penetrates the fish's mouth or flesh; the barb - the projection extending backwards from the

point, that secures the fish from unhooking; the eye - the end of the hook that is connected to the fishing line or lure; the bend and shank - that portion of the

hook that connects the point and the eye; and the gap - the distance between

the shank and the point.

Popular Common Hook Types:

Aberdeen

Light wire long shank hook, perfect for Panfish, Crappie and light biting Walleyes under a slip bobber or attached

bobber rig. The light wire limits excessive puncturing on minnows which helps them live longer on the hook, the

long shank allows the angler easy removal of the hook

from panfish that tends to swallow the bait.

Bait Holder

The bait holder hook is one of the most popular live bait hook styles today, the additional barbs on the

shank holds the bait more effectively, such as night crawlers leeches and red worms.



Circle

Circle hooks are a excellent choice for live bait catch and release anglers. Upon a fish swallowing your bait, the inward bend of the hook point allows the hook to

slide along the inside of the fish’s throat until it reaches the mouth. A sharp pulling hook set is not required, just maintain tension and the fish will hook itself

in the corner of the mouth as the fish moves away. The lip hook rate using a circle hook is about 95% it also reduces the mortality rate of fish to be released

to fight another day. Very popular hook for Catfish, Sturgeon and Muskies anglers.

Egg

Commonly called salmon egg hook, designed with a turned up eye and offset bend, so the hook rides upward along with the placement of a barb on the shank

which holds the bait. The salmon egg hook is used primarily for drift fishing along current by using natural or imitation salmon eggs, spawn sacs, worms and grubs

for Salmon and Trout.

Octopus

The extra gap and rounded shape of Octopus hooks are very popular and used

for most species of fish. The Octopus is ideal for rigging cut bait for Catfish or Salmon, minnows for Bass, Pike and Walleyes and are good choice for building

crawler harnesses. They are available in a assortment of painted or metallic colors.

Rotating

A special compound curve on the offset/rotating hook automatically turns when a fish bites on the bait.



The sweeping rotational curve places the point in position for penetration from any angle. The offset/

rotating hook twists, holds bait better and hooks fish better.

Treble

Treble hooks are a single eye of three hooks fused together with three shanks evenly spaced. The treble is mainly used on artificial lures and spoons attached

by using a split ring. Treble hooks today comes in a assortment of colors as well as feathers tied on as a trailer/teaser hook on lures.

Weedless

The weedless hook has a light wire wrapped on the shank formed in a loop that covers the point of the hook. This allows the hook to be fished in weeds logs,

trees, stumps, rocks and lily pads. Upon a fish striking the bait the wire compresses exposing the hook point.

Offset/Worm

Worm hooks are used for fishing soft plastic's lures. The front bend on a worm hook is used to lock lures such as worms and lizards from moving down the

shank by simply inserting the hook point into the head of the lure down about a 1/4 inch. Bring the hook point out of the lure, and pull the shaft of the hook

through until the eye is at the head, turn the hook straight and insert the hook point into the body, adjust the eye so it is just inside the lure. Used on Texas and

Carolina Rigs.



Texas Rig

The Texas rig is adaptable to all types of soft plastics from worms to lizards and

grubs that can be fished in extremely dense vegetation and brush.

No bass fishing arsenal is complete without knowledge and how to fish the Texas rig. Considered

a finesse technique not a search bait such as inline spinner crank bait or spinner bait. The Texas

rig is adaptable to all kinds of soft plastics from worms to lizards and grubs that can be fished in

extremely dense vegetation and brush. The presentation is placement as close to cover (weeds,

logs) as possible. When casting or flipping try to let the rig enter the water with as little noise as

possible and keep some controlled slack in the line, watch your line as well as many fish will

strike the rig on the fall. If you don�t get a bite, let the rig rest on the bottom and then begin to

retrieve in a very slow, jerk pause motion. Always keep little tension on the line because learning

this technique is a lot about learning to differentiate between the feel of the bottom and the feel

of a fish. In setting the hook use a forceful snap of the rod ensuring the embeded hook point travels through the body of the soft plastic bait.

Suggested Tackle

Rods 6-6 - 7 foot medium heavy fast action bait casting.

Reel: Low profile bait casting reel 6:3:1 gear ratio, thumb bar line release medium line capacity. Line: 10 lb to 14 lb testlow stretch monofilament.

What you need for a Texas Rig

Assortment of Bullet Sinkers (Lead Brass or Steel)

1/8 - 3/16 - 1/4 oz for shallow water or 4" to 6" soft plastic's

3/8 - 1/2- 3/4 -1 oz for deeper water or larger 6"+ soft plastic's

Offset Worm Hooks

1/0-2/0 Small Soft Plastic's 3/0 - 4/0 - 5/0 Larger Soft Plastic's

Soft Plastic Lures Worms /Lizards/Grubs/Crawfish

How to Rig

Thread the Bullet Sinker on the line making sure the nose of the sinker faces the rod tip.

Tie on the hook using a Palmor or a Improved Clinch Knot

Optional: Plastic or Glass Bead between the weight and hook. To make the weight stationary peg the bullet with a piece of toothpick, or use a screw in bullet weight.

Insert the hook about 3/8" through the nose of the soft plastic bait, pushing hook completely

through.





Embed the offset portion on the upper shank of the hook into the nose of the soft plastic, this locks the soft plastic lure on the hook

Insert the point of the hook back into the soft plastic making sure the bait hangs straight.

Insert the point of the hook into the body of the bait. This makes it weedless.

It is a good idea to push the hook through a couple of times to make a small hole or channel in the plastic. This will help insure a good hook set.

Fishing Weights (Sinkers) Fishing weights (sinkers) are made from two basic materials lead and steel. The two types of sinkers

are: attached on the line by pinching, twisted on using rubber insert or tied directly to your line

(Bottom Bouncers / Bead Chain Sinkers). The other is sliding: which allows the fishing line to slide or

pass through the weight from a hole or a eyelet. The same principle applies in using sinkers for your

set-up use the lightest possible sinker in order to detect fish strikes.

Popular Common Sinkers / Weights Types:

Split Shot

Pinches easily onto your line where you want to set depth at. Removes just as easy by pinching the

other end. Used for live bait and lures.

Split Shot Rig This is about as basic as you can get on a rig. The nice thing is, you don't have to

retie any knots to change the sinker position on the line; just pinch it on and off.

This is about as basic as you can get on a rig. The nice thing is, you don't have to retie any knots

to change the sinker position on the line; just pinch it on and off. Fishing with the split shot rig is

considered a finesse technique by adding a split shot sinker in front of your live bait offering,

using line 4-8lb test on a light to medium light spinning rod and reel set-up. Unlike the other rigs

mentioned Texas, Carolina and the sliding sinker rig that are primarily fished on the bottom, the

split shot rig gently moves downward after a cast, until it reaches the bottom thus requiring patience to fish it correctly.



There is no wrong way to fish this rig, it is excellent for open water covering vertical structure,

steep breaklines sloping banks and bluffs where fish suspend, it is also surprisingly good in light

timber using a weedless hook and a light split shot where the weight isn�t heavy enough to pull

it down into the branches. The split-shot rig is also effective around floating boat docks, where

fish often hang under.

The placement of the split shot is more versatile and adjustable than most anglers think. The

general consensus is position the split shot 18 inches above the hook, which gives the bait

adequate freedom of movement. But by placing it closer to the bait like within a 12" or less the

bait will react more like a jig, giving a pronounced action. Conversely by placing the split shot 3

feet or more up the line will minimize the action of the live bait. As a finesse technique this will

require the angler to keep alert while using this rig, watch the line after the cast for any subtle

changes or sideway movement a twitch means you have a bite, upon engaging the reel beginning

the retrieve keep the bait moving on a semi-tight line leaving a little slack. Avoid keeping the line

too tight this will take away the natural presentation of the bait. If the slack in the line tightens

or you feel a slight tick you have a bite, make a easy sweep upward to set the hook and keep the pressure on the fish.

Tackle Suggestions

Rod: 6-6 to 7-0 foot-Light to Medium Light/ Medium Action Spinning

Reel: Light Spinning balanced with the rod Line" 4-8 lb test monofilament

What you need for a split shot rig

Weight/Sinkers

All fishing shops and discount stores sells split shots, purchase the assortment pack that comes in

a round case for a selection of sizes and weight. Split shots come in standard round once pinched

on your line they can be difficult to pry open to remove or reusable which features tiny wings that

you can pinch between the thumb and forefinger to remove or move on the line which we recommend to start out with.

Hooks

Use the smallest hook possible to maintain the natural action of the live bait. Rigging minnows

and leeches use a octopus hook size #4-#6-#8. Size #4 for larger minnows and night crawlers. Panfish use Aberdeen light wire hooks size #6-#8

Tip

Add a split shot in front of a floating crankbait or a rigged soft plastic bait. Different size shot

change the lure's sink rate and you can vary retrieve speeds to produce an enticing "up and

down" action. Tie on your lure of choice, then add one or two split shot sinkers starting about 1

foot above the lure. The closer the weight is to the bait the more precise your casting will be.

This finesse technique is used for shallow water or clear water fish that have been seeing a lot of

action. To add depth to your lure for trolling add a split shot or for increased depth add a rubber core sinker.

How to Rig

Tie a hook on the line using a Improved Clinch Knot. Add split shot




Stream Rig

The stream rig also known as a drift rig are used commonly by steelhead, salmon

and walleye anglers in certain situations, such as in small streams with light

current or when drift fishing in relatively shallow water.

The stream rig also known as a drift rig are used commonly by steelhead, salmon and walleye

anglers in certain situations, such as in small streams with light current or when drift fishing in

relatively shallow water. The stream rig is very similar to the three way rig with the exception of

the sinker dropper line which uses a series of split shots instead of a casting (bell) sinker. This

allow the angler not to lose the entire rig if hung up, by applying pressure pulls the split shot off the dropper saving the hook and swivel.

Fishing the stream rig takes some finesse and can be difficult for the new angler to pick-up. The

basic presentation of the rig is relatively simple, but requires a very light touch and feel to detect

what is the bottom and what is a fish. The rig is cast upstream in the current and allowed to sink

to the bottom. The key here is to have enough weight attached to let the rig to bounce along the

current, slowly towards the angler as it moves downstream. Some fish are caught in this portion

of the drift where the rig is bouncing, but most bites occur at the bottom end of the drift when it

is quartering (The swing) back through the current towards the angler. At this point the rig is

moving slower than the dead drift portion of the drift and more fish are apt to see and strike the bait quartering than coming straight at them.

As the split shots on the rig and bait ticks along the bottom, this is where the angler must pay

close attention to differentiate between the feel of the bottom and the feel of a fish. Any bump,

twitch or pulling sensation can be a fish. If you're unsure ... set the hook. After a while, you'll develop a 'sense' of what is bottom and what is a fish.

Suggested Tackle: The basic rod and reel set-up for fishing the stream rig is light for the

sensitivity, many anglers prefer longer light, soft action spinning rods with 4-8lb test line for drift

fishing. 8� to 10 foot drift rods are common. The long soft action rods will bend starting in the

lower third using nearly the entire rod providing the most flexibility. Because of this parabolic

action the angler is using the rod as a shock absorber in fighting the fish in the current this allows the use of light line.

What you need for a stream rig

Weight/Sinkers

An assortment of split shots sizes 3/0-7-5 for light current 2-3-4 for faster current. All fishing

shops and discount stores sells split shots, purchase the assortment pack that comes in a round



case for a selection of sizes and weight or the individual packs . Split shots come in standard

round once pinched on your line they can be difficult to pry open to remove or reusable which

features tiny wings that you can pinch between the thumb and forefinger to remove or move on the line which we recommend to start out with.

Hooks

Use the smallest hook possible to maintain the natural action of the live bait. Popular hooks for

walleye, steelhead and salmon are octopus and egg styles size #6-#8 for salmon eggs, spawn sac�s and small minnows. Size #4 for larger minnows and night crawlers and cut bait.

Three way swivel The three way swivel used should be of good quality and as small as possible size 8-6

How to Rig

Tie the main line to one eye of the three way swivel.

Add/tie the drop lines, one at 6 to 10 inches and the other at 24 to 30 inches to the other two eyes on the swivel.

Tie the hook to the longer drop line (24/30") and the split shots to the other at (6/10")

For all knots use the Improved Clinch Knot. Add the appropriate amount of split shots to the

sinker dropper line.

Rubber Core

Attach to line thorugh the slot in the sinker and twisting the inner rubber core around line to secure it.

Used when heavier weight is required.




Drop Shot

Many tackle companies manufacture designed drop shot weights, round or rectangular of lead or

tungsten and come with a tie on clip on the top. The weights range from 1/8oz to 1/2oz.

Drop Shot Rig The drop-shot rig is a finesse technique that has been made popular by the bass

fishing community, walleye and panfish anglers as well are now using the drop

shot with many successes.

The drop-shot rig is a finesse technique that has been made popular by the bass fishing

community, walleye and panfish anglers as well are now using the drop shot with many

successes. It is especially good for suspended fish that requires vertical placement of the bait in

front of active fish. The drop shot is a way of tying your hook up the line and putting the lead on

the bottom. Fishing the drop shot is simple, cast or drop the rig straight down over the side of

the boat, when the line goes slack reel up until the line is tight with the weight on the bottom,

now shake the rod gently, you just want your bait to wiggle. A bite can be a subtle tug, a side

way movement or just pressure on the line. Set the hook using a upward sweeping motion.

Suggested Tackle : As a finesse rig the drop shot is best fished on light line and spinning

outfits.

Rod: Light fast action 6'-6" to 7' foot

Reels: Light Spinning balanced to the rod

Line: 6-8 lb monofilament

What you need for a Drop Shot Rig

Weight/Sinkers

Many tackle companies manufacture designed drop shot weights, round or rectangular of lead or

tungstenthat come with a tie on clip on the top. The weights range from 1/8 to1/2 oz. The most



common weights used are 3/16 - 3/8 oz. Another alternative is a casting sinker a bell shaped sinker with a tie on swivel molded on the top.

Hooks

There are many specialized drop shot hooks on the market, but any small hooks will work. For

rigging small soft plastic�s use a 1/0 or 2/0 offset worm hook. Live bait minnows and leeches

use a octopus hook size #6-#8. Panfish use Aberdeen light wire hooks size #6-#8

Lures/Live bait

Bait versatility is advantage of the drop shot rig. In rigging small soft plastic�s if you're fishing

open water run the hook thru it�s nose with the hook exposed, if there is cover in the area you

can rig it Texas style making it weedless (See Texas Rig above)

Live Bait hook the minnow through it�s mouth, leeches through its sucker.

How to Rig

The drop shot rig is a easy rig to tie as long as you become comfortable with the knot used for

the hook. The Palomar Knot . We recommend first time users to practice tying this rig at home

before heading out on the water. As a reference you should print out a copy of our knot instructions as a guide. Just Click Here .

To tie a drop shot rig determine how far off the bottom you want your bait to be 18 to 36 inches,

make a loop at that length and pass the line through the hook eye from the point side. Allow the

hook to dangle, and tie a loose over hand knot in the doubled line, being careful not to twist the

lines or tighten the knot. Pull the line by its looped end far enough to pass it over the hook

Pulling at both ends of the line, tighten the knot. Leaving one end connected to the rod and the

other tag end to tie on the drop shot weight using a Improved Clinch Knot . Be sure the hook rides horizontally from the line.

Bottom Bouncer

The bottom bouncer is an effective rigging tool while trolling or drifting

presenting the lure/bait rig above snag laced bottom of small rocks, logs, over mud/sand flats, or open basins. A weighted wire feeler arm minimizes hang-ups

while riding upright across underwater structure deflecting snags.

Bottom bouncers are weighted L-shaped piece of heavy wire using live bait, crawler harness or

floating spinner rigs attached to the non weighted arm via a snap swivel. The bottom bouncer can

be as light a1/2 oz up 3 ounces. This is all attached to your rod, by tying the line to the eye at

the intersection of the two wire arms of the bouncer. The bottom bouncer is an effective rigging

tool while trolling or drifting presenting the lure/bait rig above snag laced bottom of small rocks,

logs, over mud/sand flats, or open basins. A weighted wire feeler arm minimizes hang-ups while riding upright across underwater structure deflecting snags.

Using a bottom bouncer is a search technique by covering a lot of water efficiently (trolling or

drifting) in seeking active feeding fish especially walleyes that tend to related to bottom






structure. Fishing a bottom bouncer, the angler casts or releases the line allowing the rig to sink

to the bottom, engage the reel to tighten line as close to a 45 degree angle from the boat, this

guarantees frequent bottom contact, control and feel. You do not want the line to be vertical, by

having the 45 angle provides enough distance for the bouncer to work correctly and gives it

enough distance from the boat not to spook the fish. When you feel a bite ( a subtle tap, twitch

or pressure on the line) lean the rod tip forward slightly and use the rod in a sweeping overhead

motion away from the fish in setting the hook this helps eliminating any slack line ensuring a good hookset.

Bait Walker

The Bait Walker is a trade name for a similar rig only smaller in overall size.

The weight is located on the bottom tip of the lower arm than in the middle

on a bottom bouncer. The weight design is tapered, rounded and has a

concave flat top which makes the bait walker feel like a keel sinker providing

little resistance as it rides across the bottom, excellent for trolling in

preventing line twist. Another feature is the selection of weight options 1/4

oz up to 10 ounces allowing the angler the versatility to use the lightest

presentation, small floating crank baits and flutter spoons for walleye and bass down to reaching the depths for lake trout.

Suggested Tackle:

Rods 6�-6" to 7"-0" Medium-Power Medium action casting rod with a long

handle for rod holder placement.

Reels: Medium-capacity baitcasting reel. Line: 10-14 pound test low stretch monofilament.

What you need for a bottom bouncer

Weight Sizes

Most all fishing shops and large discount stores sells bottom bouncers, the key to a proper

presentation is using the correct weight. Weight selection depends on a combination of depth and

speed.

Recommended Bottom Bouncer Weights:

1/2- to 1-ounce for under 15 feet.

1 1/2- to 2-ounces for 15 to 20 feet. 2 1/2- to 3-ounces for 30- to 40-foot depths.

Hooks/Rigs/Lures

With the hundreds of rigging options that the bottom bouncer offers it is impossible to list all by

types for each species and fishing conditions that you may encounter. For live bait there are pre-

rigged: live bait snells, floating snells, bladed worm harnesses and minnow rigs sold in shops that

vary in leader lengths from 12 to 30 inches, these all attach to the bottom bouncer snap from a

pre tied loop on the end of the leader. Artificial lures are all so used with good success, floating

crank baits, (use shallow to mid range running lures) or light weight trolling (flutter) spoons are also popular.

Colors/Blades

The same basic fish attracting principles applies when it comes to color selection on blades or

lures; use hot orange, yellow, or chartreuse for darker water, nickel, silver, or non-fluorescent colors for clear water; and copper, gold, or neutral colors for conditions in between.

Typically the blade sizes and types on pre rigged worm harnesses and minnow rigs are Indiana

and Colorado blades sizes #3-#4-#5. The Indiana spins tighter to the rig than the Colorado



producing less of a thump, conversely a broad blade such as the Colorado will rotate at a greater outward angle from the rig producing a lift, greater thump and more vibration.

As you can see, fishing a bottom bouncer presents numerous bait rigging questions:

Type of live bait (minnow, night crawler or leech), rig blade color and type, artificial lures, colors,

spoons - straight or jointed crankbaits, and length of leader. You would be best served before

heading out to do a little research with the local sport shop or local fishing guides in finding out the correct bait rigging set-up for the waters you�re fishing.

How to Rig

Tie the bottom bouncer on the center eye at the intersection of the two wire arms of the bouncer using a Improved Clinch Knot. Attach the appropriate rig to the top arm snap swivel.

Bead Chain / Trolling

Great for trolling lighter lures with out having to use lead core line or downriggers




Bank

Similar to the walking sinker but comes in heavier weights 1oz-6oz Squared edge design helps you

keep your bait where you want it.

Bullet

As the name implies it is shaped like a Bullet used on Texas rigs in front of the worm, lizards or on

Carolina rigs, with it’s pointed nose it slides easily through the weeds or wood with out getting

snagged. Weight Sizes 1/8 oz to 1 oz.

Carolina Rig

The Carolina rig is a popular and effective way to rig for bass. Just about any soft

plastic can be used when Carolina rigging.

The Carolina rig is a popular and effective way to rig for bass. Just about any soft plastic can be

used when Carolina rigging. It is a successful method of soft plastic bait presentation in all depths

of water, its only limitation is certain types of cover that you are trying to move it through. For

example areas of extreme weeds or brush don�t lend themselves to the usage of a Carolina rig.

Areas were the bottom is made up of rocks and boulders that are very close together is another

area where the rig is sure to get caught up. Fishing with a Carolina rig you can see why they are

so effective as the rig is drawn across the bottom the soft plastic bait will move side to side

upward and downward bumping weeds and bouncing off rocks. Cast and retrieve slow is the key

for a successful presentation. A bite on a Carolina rig can be a subtle tap, twitch or pressure on

the line in setting the hook use a forceful snap of the rod ensuring the embeded hook point travels through the body of the soft plastic bait.

The Carolina rig is basically a modified Texas rig with a few additions and similar to a sliding

sinker bottom rig used for walleyes.

Suggested Tackle

Rods 6-6 1/2- 7 foot medium heavy fast action bait casting.



Reel: Low profile bait casting reel 6:3:1 gear ratio, thumb bar line release medium line capacity. Line: 10lb to 14 lb low stretch monofilament.

What you need for a Carolina Rig

Assortment of Sinkers Types Bullet or Egg (Lead, Brass or Steel)

1/8 - 3/16 - 1/4 oz for shallow water or 4" to 6" soft plastic's 3/8 - 1/2 - 3/4 - 1 oz for deeper water or larger 6"+ soft plastic's

Swivels

The swivels used should be of good quality and as small as possible. The general function of the

swivel is as a stopper for the weight rather than keeping out line twist. Sizes 5-6-7 Are large enough to stop the sliding weight.

Offset Worm Hooks

1/0-2/0 - Small Soft Plastic's

3/0-4/0 - 5/0 Larger Soft Plastic's

Lures

Just about any type of soft plastic baits

How to Rig

Determine the leader length, 18" to 36" is the most common, the general rule is 18 inches of

leader per 10 feet of water. Tie your hook on to the leader on the other end tie on your swivel using a Palomar or Improved Clinch Knotfor both.

Slip on the sinker on your main line, if your using a bullet weight be sure the point is facing the

rod tip. Then slip on a glass bead, this adds sound that attracts bass and acts as a insulator

protecting the knot from the banging of the weight.

Tie on the leader to the other side of the swivel using a Palomar or Improved Clinch Knot .

In rigging your soft plastic�s on the hook use the same procedure as the Texas Rig above.

Casting

All around general sinker used on many rigs, the top loop makes it easy to tie on or let the weight slide

up and down the line. Weight Sizes 1/8 oz to 1 oz.







Three Way Rig The three way rig receives its name from the main swivel used on the rig. It is also

recognized as the wolf river rig.

The three way rig receives its name from the main swivel used on the rig. It is also recognized as

the wolf river rig. Unlike the sliding sinker bottom rig three-ways don�t slip, so you don�t feed

line upon a bite, they are a fixed bottom rig mainly used on river systems to place the bait at a

set distance off the bottom. The three way is used from a stationary position, anchored in a boat

or from a shoreline. The bite indicator is your rod tip the key to sense a strike is to have no

excess line between the three-way and the rod. River currents creates drag on the line which

reduces sensitivity and control. In other words you do not want to have a bow in your line from

the rod to the rig. Tighten up the line as much as possible to have a direct line from the rod to

the rig. When you see a bite the tip of the rod will twitch, simply drop the rod tip towards the rig

allowing it to collapse the rig back to the fish, as the slack of the line tightens, its time to set the

hook using the upward sweeping motion of the rod.

Suggested Tackle: Rod/Reel/Line Set-ups: White Bass/Stripers & Walleye 6�-6" to 7�0"

Medium/Fast Action Spinning Rod and Reel with 10lb monofilament test line. Catfish 6�-6" to 7�-0" Medium/Fast Action Baitcasting with 20lb to 30lb monofilament test line.

Trolling Options

With the depth control of the three way rig some innovative anglers use this rig for a trolling

presentation. Floating crank baits are a superb way to use the three way rig on rivers. They

wiggle and wobble in the current, troll upstream they vibrate madly go downstream move along

slightly faster than the current to make the lure wiggle, experiment to find what the fish prefer.

The set-up for this is simple, instead of the hook add a snap or tie directly on a floating crank

bait, free spool the line over the side of the boat until the sinker reaches the bottom, release as

much for the desired length from the boat, engage your reel keeping your finger on the line. As

the sinker bounces along the bottom the crank bait will ride about 20 inches above. This set-up is

excellent for river walleyes and white bass.

What you need for a three way rig

Weight/Sinkers

The weight of the sinkers used on rivers is a totally dependent of the current speed and type of

live bait. The most common used is a casting (bell) type sinker ranging in weight sizes of 1/2-

3/4-1 oz. For rivers with extreme current, bank and pyramid sinkers are rigged with weight sizes



starting from 1 oz up to 8 ounces. You�re best bet is to check with the local sport shop or a local fishing guide in finding the correct type and weight for the proper set-up.

Hooks

White Bass/Stripers Walleye size #4-#6 Octopus/Aberdeen Hooks/Floating Jigs size 4 Catfish size 1/0-2/0 Circle/Octopus Hooks

Swivel

A three way marine brass swivel size 4

How to Rig

Tie the main line to one eye of the three way swivel, add/tie the drop lines. one at 12 to 18

inches and the other at 24 to 36 inches to the other two eyes on the swivel. Tie the hook to the

longer drop line (24/36") and the sinker to the other at (12/18") For all knots use the Improved Clinch Knot.

Tip: If you fish in area�s with a lot of snags, reduce the drop line pound test for the sinker than

the main line or hook line, this way if the sinker gets hung up, the lighter dropper line with the

sinker breaks with out loosing the entire rig.

Disc

Used in fast water currents lays flat on the bottom where snags are a problem. Weight Sizes 1/2 oz to 4

oz.

Egg

The egg sinker is used on multiple rigs, as a sliding sinker or pegged to function as a stationary weight. Weight Sizes 1/8 oz to 1 oz.

Flat

Also known as a No Roll this flat sliding sinker planes right to the bottom and hold for use in heavy current. Weight Sizes 1oz to 8 oz





Pyramid

Great sinker for fishing swift rivers and heavy surf that have a soft bottom (mud

and sand) the corners dig in keeping the weight stationary. Weight Sizes 1 oz to 8 oz.

Walking

A very popular walleye angler sinker. A rectangular sinker with rounded outside edges a top eye for the line with the bottom slightly wider and larger in size than

top, holding more weight. The bottom is also rounded and bent upwards. This allows the sinker to “walk” on the bottom over rocks and rubble reducing the

chance of snagging. The semi-flat design also prevents it from rolling in faster currents.

Weight Sizes 1/8 oz to 1 1/2 oz.

Sliding Sinker Bottom Rig The sliding sinker bottom rig is the most popular and versatile rig for live bait

fishing. Dependent on what part of the country your from and the species of fish

you’re targeting it has many names the most common is the trade name Lindy Rig.

The sliding sinker bottom rig is the most popular and versatile rig for live bait fishing. Dependent

on what part of the country your from and the species of fish you�re targeting it has many

names the most common is the Lindy Rig a trade name, others include: Live Bait Rig, Slip Rig, River Rig, Catfish Rig, Walleye Rig, Walking Sinker Rig and Sturgeon Rig.

The basic rig is simple; weight/sinker - swivel/stop - leader - hook - floating jig- or

crawler/minnow rigs all used for live bait. The fishing presentation allows the sinker to rest on the

water bottom with the bait suspended above. This feature prevents the a fish from feeling the weight as the line passes through the sinker.



Suggested Tackle

Rod: Walleye: 6�-6" - 7�- 0" Foot -Light to Medium Light Power Spinning / Fast action

Rod: Large Catfish: 6�-6" to 7�-0" Foot -Medium Heavy Power Bait Casting / Fast action

Reel: Walleye: Light spinning balanced tothe rod

Reel: Large Line capacity Bait Casting.

Line: Walleye 6lb-8lb test low visibility monofilament. Line: Large Catfish 20lb to 30lb test low stretch monofilament.

Fishing from a Boat

When casting the sliding sinker bottom rig allow the rig to sink to the bottom, reel up the line

until it is tight, this brings the sinker up to the swivel/stop. Slowly retrieve the rig along the

bottom, when a fish bites the live bait it usually pulls the line the opposite way of the sinker

telegraphed by a small tug or twitch on your line. Open the free spool on your reel allowing the

fish to swim away on a free line after grabbing the bait. Walleye and catfish are notorious for

picking up bait and dropping it as soon as they feel resistance. After a few seconds engage the reel bring the line tight and set the hook.

River Fishing

In fishing rivers with current from a boat anchored or from a shoreline as a set line, the basic

principles apply the same. Cast the rig and reel up the line until it is tight. Set the rod in a rod

holder. Watch the rod tip closely as this will be the bite indicator. When the rod tip twitches, open

the free spool on your reel, wait a few seconds, engage the reel and set the hook using a

sweeping motion of the rod. This technique is highly successful for catfish and sturgeon on river

systems.

Controlled Drifting or Trolling

When front trolling, back trolling or on a controlled drift, release or cast allowing as much line out

until it is at the desired distance from your boat. Leave the reel in free spool and use your finger

to stop and hold the line. As the boat moves the line will become tight once the sinker reaches

the bottom. While holding your rod periodically give it a small pump keeping your finger on the

line, this adds action to your bait, as the slack line becomes tight, feel for bites as many times

this acts as a trigger for a following fish. If you feel a twitch or a tap release you�re finger give it

a few seconds engage the reel bringing the line tight slowly and set the hook.

What you need for a sliding sinker bottom rig

With the hundreds of options that this rig offers it is impossible to list all by types for each

species and fishing conditions that you may encounter. But here are some general guidelines to follow:

Weight/Sinkers

Any type of sliding sinker will work for this rig. As a general rule you�ll need a 1/8 of an ounce

for every 10 feet of depth for lake systems that have minimal of current.Start with few a 1/8 -1/4

and 1/2 ounce sinkers this will cover most lake fishing techniques. Walking sinkers are the most

generally used and work the best over rocks and along mud bottoms. Use a bullet sinker when

weeds are present. Bullet sinkers will slide through the weeds better as the taper head will not

pick up bits of vegetation and floating debris.

Recommended Sliding Sinker Weights

1/8 oz. for 6-10 feet of water



3/4 oz. for 25-35 feet of water 1 oz. for 35 feet and deeper

The weight of the sinkers used on rivers is a totally dependent of the current speed and type of

live bait. Egg, no roll, disc, casting, and pyramid sinkers are all used for river rigging ranging in



weights from a 1/8 to 8 ounces. You�re best bet is to check with the local sport shop or a local fishing guide in finding the correct type and weight for the proper set-up.

Hooks

The octopus hook is the most widely used on this rig as a single hook or pre-rigged on a

crawler/minnow rig harness, all quality hook manufactures produces them in various sizes and

colors. For small minnow and leeches use size #6-#8 for walleye crappie and bass. Size #4 for

larger minnows and night crawlers for walleye northern pike and trout. Catfish and sturgeon sizes range from 1 to 6/0.

Other hooking options include floating jigs sized by the hook #4-#6. Crawler and minnow pre-

rigged harnesses with single or double blades work extremely well in stained or murky water by

producing a loud blade vibrations helping the fish locate your bait.

Swivels

The swivels used should be of good quality and as small as possible. The general function of the

swivel is as a stopper for the weight rather than keeping out line twist. Be sure the swivel is large enough to stop the sliding weight.

Live Bait

All live bait will work on this rig.

How to Rig

Begin with making the leader, we recommend using fluorocarbon monofilament as the leader

material, it is invisible in the water and abrasion resistant and has low stretch. This can be purchased at quality sport shops as 10 to 20 yard spools.

Start with cutting the length of leaders at 24-to-36 inches use 6 to 8 lb test for walleye and bass

- 8lb to 10lb for light catfish & pike - 20lb for medium catfish -Large catfish & sturgeon 30 to 40lb

test. Note: Length of leader and size of hook will vary based on the fishing conditions.

Tie the hook on one end using a Improved Clinch Knot tie the other end to the swivel using the same knot

Thread the sinker onto your fishing line. For the walking sinker make sure the bent bottom end is

facing towards the rig or away from the rod tip. Bullet sinkers face the tapered end towards the

rod tip. Egg, no roll, disc, casting, and pyramid sinkers have no preference. After slipping the

sinker on your line tie to the open end of the swivel on the leader using the Improved Clinch Knot. Once tied, the slip sinker should be above the swivel and move freely.

Swivels

Swivels are a simple but yet important part on your fishing gear when it comes to rigging. The swivel

keeps your line from twisting, acts as a weight stop on your line along with spreading bottom rigs ( 3-

way swivel) for proper presentations. Swivels are also used as a component on a leader to attach your

line.

Barrel






Ball Bearing

Three Way

Snap Swivel

Fishing Bobbers (Floats)

Fishing with a bobbers is one the most common and simple set-ups. The bobber or float presents the

bait at a pre set depth and acts as a strike indicator when a fish bites. There are a variety colors, shapes

and size bobbers available today, lighted or glow for night time fishing, slip bobbers that the fishing

line passes through for deep water fishing and the fixed bobber that uses a spring lock or snap for

shallow water fishing.

Popular Common Bobbers (Floats)

1. Round Attached 2. Lighted Slip 3. Weighted Spring Attached 4. Glow Slip 5. Slip

6. Antenna Slip 7. Shy/Light Bite Slip 8. Waggler Slip 9. Large Bait Slip



Sliding Slip Bobber Rig The slip bobber can be fished at any depth, it is designed to move (slide) up and

down the line and will not interfere with casting or landing a fish.

Many anglers began their first fishing experience using a red and white bobber rig off a dock or

boat for panfish. While the basic bobber set-up is simple we have witnessed over the years many

anglers over-rig this set-up by using a extremely large hook, connected to a pike leader attached

to a tennis ball sized bobber. Unfortunately they never received guidance or advice for the correct

presentation, but at least they are fishing. To properly fish a attached bobber or slip bobber rig

the key is to use the smallest and lightest tackle in order to present the live bait as natural as

possible, and to detect a bite from your bobber. By doing this your success and catch rate will increase dramatically.

For a bobber or float to work properly, there has to be some point to hold the bobber from

movement on the line to float. Conventional round bobbers achieve this by attaching directly to a

fixed point on the line using a snap, cigar shaped floats use a spring that is pulled back with the

line inserted into a slot, by releasing the spring, will hold the line. The attached to line bobbers

will work but are limited to very shallow water a few feet or so, in other words the amount of line

from the attached bobber to your hook should be shorter than you�re rod length. Using a bobber

to hook length longer than the rod will restrict your casting ability and the fish landing as the

attached bobber stops the line at the rod tip hampering your efforts to net the fish, especially

large ones.

The slip bobber can be fished at any depth, it's design has a hollow tube through it and will slide

freely from the hook or bottom weight to the stop. The stop point on the line is called a bobber

stop, this can be purchased at a store as rubber pellets, small vinyl strips and dacron knots on a

tube, or can be tied by the angler using this knot ( Stop Knot ) The bobber stop when used

correctly is small enough to pass through the rod guides and reel mechanisms when retrieved or

cast, but is large enough to stop the bead on a slip bobber. Thus the angler using slip bobbers can fish at any depth, only limited by the depth of the water and the amount of line on the reel.




Fishing a slip bobber is an effective way to catch almost any species of fish. To began, the slip

bobber rig should be balanced with the correct amount of weight including the live bait. The

bobber/float should only be large enough to hold your bait and float upright in the water, that

way it will be sensitive to any type of bite. If your bobber lays flat on the surface, you�re

probably on the bottom or need additional weight. Adjust the bobber stop upward or add weight.

Setting the correct depth is critical for successful slip bobbering. Start at 6" to 12" inches off the

bottom and adjust the bobber stop upward from there. Walleyes and perch relate to bottom

structure, bluegills, crappies and bass often suspend higher. An inexpensive tool to use in setting

the correct depth off the bottom is a ice fishing depth finder, a alligator clip attached to a lead

weight. These can purchased at any fishing shop for under two dollars. Clip the depth finder on the hook release the line until reaches the bottom, set/slide the bobber stop accordingly.

Upon setting the proper depth and weight balance on the slip bobber. It�s time to fish. Once

reeled up the slip bobber should rest above the split shot with the bobber stop on your reel. After

the cast wait for the bait to sink and the bobber to go upright before reeling in any slack line.

Keep alert for any movements, up, down, sideways, indicating a bite, if the bobber goes flat on

the water, this means a fish has taken your bait and is swimming upward eliminating the weight

that kept the bobber upright. In setting the hook reel in any slack line, use the rod in a sweeping overhead motion away from the fish this helps ensuring a good hookset.

Suggested Tackle:

Any light rod & reel set-up will work but we suggest a longer rod in aiding longer casts and

setting the hook.

Rod - 7' to 8' foot plus, light with medium action spinning rod.

Reel - Any good quality spinning reel balanced to the rod with a smooth drag. Line - 4 - 8 pound test monofilament.

What you need for a slip bobber rig/bobber

Type of Floats/Bobbers

There are variations in styles and types of floats. Matching the live bait, larger bait requires a

larger float or a fishing presentation such asdrifting a float over a flat or fishing a targeted piece

of structure, rock pile, hump or crib. For night fishing there are LED lithium battery tipped lighted floats. You should have variety of floats enabling to fish in various situations and conditions.

Round Basic Bobber

The round attached bobber comes in a rainbow of colors made of hard plastic or Styrofoam that

have a spring clip on the bottom attaching to the line. Fishing with attached bobber limit�s the

amount of line to a few feet for shallow water. Great for kids who fish off a dock. The best bobber size is about 1 inch or equal to a quarter for small worms.

Pear Shaped Slip Float

These are the most common, made of Styrofoam or balsa, easy to cast, and will work in waves or

still water conditions. They come in a variety of sizes to match the live bait, smaller for leeches and worms larger for minnows.

Cigar Shaped Slip Floats

For light biting fish, these have a thinner profile and offer the least resistance on a bite. Easily

cast and best used when fishing calm water over structure. Made of Styrofoam or balsa

Pencil Slip Float

This is the lightest and thinnest float used to detect a bite, often referred as a shy bite or a waggler float. A popular float in Europe for light biting fish. Made of balsa.

Oval Slip Floats

A larger float used for larger minnows small suckers and red tail chubs. They are a good choice



for (drifting) covering an expanse of water as the increased profile will drift along pushed from the wind and waves. Made of Styrofoam or balsa.

Bobber Stops/Stop Knots

There are three common types of bobber stops that are sold in shops. Rubber pellets that come

attached to a fine wire loop, they attach by running the line through the loop and pull the stop

onto the line. Vinyl/Plastic strips that have small holes that you weave the line through and the

Dacron knot stop that come on a small tube which is threaded onto the line, the knot is pushed

off the tube to the line then tighten, the tag ends are trimmed off. All three come with stop beads if the hole on the float is too large for the stop.

The Dacron stop is the most universally used as well as the easiest to adjust on monofilament

just wet the line and slide the stop to the proper setting.

Weight/Sinkers

Proper weighting and placement are the utmost important when using a slip bobber. Start by

placing the split shot 8 to 12 inches from the hook, if more than one split shot is used always

place the smaller split shot closest to the hook, this will allow your bait to appear more natural.

Each size and type of slip bobber will require different sized split shot weights. The correct weight

and placement will keep your line vertical through the water allowing the float to indicate even the lightest bite.

All fishing shops and discount stores sells split shots, purchase the assortment pack that comes in

a round case for a selection of sizes and weight. Split shots come in standard round once pinched

on your line they can be difficult to pry open to remove or reusable which features tiny wings that

you can pinch between the thumb and forefinger to remove or move on the line which we recommend to start out with.

Hooks

Use the smallest hook possible to maintain the natural action of the live bait. The Octopus hook is

the most commonly used although circle hooks are equally effective. Sizes #6 and #8 for worms

and leeches, size #4 for minnows for walleyes and bass. Crappies and bluegills try a gold

Aberdeen long shank hook size #6 or#8 tipped with a small minnow or redworm. Another option

is using a jig 1/64 to 1/8 ounce this offers color to the bait as well as a horizontal presentation. Try this for early and mid season walleyes.

Live bait

Worms, leeches, minnows. Minnows are the favorite during the spring and fall seasons with leeches and worm/night crawlers used during warmer summer months.

How to rig a slip bobber

Began by threading the stop knot tube on the line

Push the stop knot off the tube onto the line toward the rod tip and remove tube.

Pull the loose tag ends of the knot semi-tight to be adjustable. Trim off the tag ends close to the knot.

Thread on the bead and slip float, be sure the top of the float is facing the rod tip.

Pinch on a split shot below the float and tie on the hook on using a Improved Clinch Knot.

Tip

Add a small barrel swivel above the split shot using lighter line than the main line. For instance

the main line is 8lb use 4lb or 6lb test from the swivel down to the hook. If you get snagged and




had to break the line, you would only lose the hook and split shot by breaking the lighter line.

This keeps the float as the swivel acts as a stop on your main line. It saves you time not chasing a floating bobber.

Fishing with Live Bait

With all of the innovative and high tech features

that artificial lures currently have, fishing with live

bait still produces over 50% of freshwater game

fish caught in North America. Dependent on the

time of the year and water temperatures or when

fishing slows down live bait is definitely the

preferred choice for a successful catch.

Most live bait are purchased at a local Sport Shop

or for a rewarding experience can be caught by

yourself. Whether you buy or catch your bait it

should always be kept fresh and lively, active fresh

minnows, worms and leeches catch fish, it will also

save you money by learning how to keep your bait alive.

The following are the most popular live bait used, types of containers and care for inland freshwater

fishing.

Fishing with Bait Fish To most anglers the word minnow means a small fish used for bait. Minnows are apart of a fish family

that includes over 250 species in North America. The most commonly used and commercially sold

minnows are Fatheads, Chubs, Shiners and Suckers.

Fathead

Fatheads are the most popular and universal of baitfish and are commonly used as forage for game

fish. The fathead minnow is a fresh water fish, native to most states. They generally reach 2 to 3

inches in length and have a life span of two to three years. Fathead minnows are sometimes called

"tuffy", "ruby red", or "blackhead." They come in two different colors, black and rosy red (orange).

Fatheads feed on small organic organisms, and their maximum length seldom exceed three inches in

size thus making them one of the best forage fish available for bass, bluegill, walleye, and crappie to

feed on. Spawning begins when the water temperature reaches 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit and repeats

monthly until water cools down in the fall. In Northern States, the fathead minnow inhabits boggy,

stained colored lakes, ponds and slow moving streams. In Southern states it lives in silt or mud

bottomed lakes ponds and slow moving rivers.

Chub (Creek Chub)



Creek chubs are a main forage item for many predators, such as walleyes, brown trout, northern pike,

largemouth bass, and smallmouth bass. Because they often school in lakes, loons, kingfishers, and

mergansers also commonly eat them. Little creek chubs even have to watch out for bigger creek chubs.

The creek chub is one of the "Big Three" native minnows (the other two are common shiner and

hornyhead chub). Males sometimes attain lengths of 10"-12" and weigh up to 12 oz. Females reach

about 7"-8" weigh up to 8-10 oz. Creek chubs can live for 7-8 years although few make it past 5.

Hornyhead Chub ( Red Tail Chub)

The hornyhead chub, also known as the redtail chub, is olive brown on the back, silvery on the sides,

and creamy below. At the base of the tail, which is red, young fish have a distinct spot. This spot

becomes less distinct with age. Adult males reach a length of about 6 to 9 inches (females are smaller).

Spawning occurs from late May through June. The male constructs a nest carrying small rocks in his

mouth to the spawning site. The finished nest is a small mound of stones 1-3 feet in diameter and a

few inches high. The eggs are deposited into a small depression opened by the male in the nest. The

hornyhead feeds primarily on insect larvae, but eats other small animals, such as earthworms and

crustaceans; some algae is also eaten. It is used as a popular baitfish for walleyes and northern pike.

Common Shiner

Common shiners average about 2 1/2 to 4 inches long; some reach 8 inches. Their color is basically

silvery with a dusky back. In comparison with similar species, the head, eyes, and mouth of the

common shiner seem noticeably large. Their native range is Midwest and Eastern States. It inhabits

both warm and coldwater streams and may be found in the same cooler waters as trout. Common

shiners spawn in spring. Gravel in riffles is often used for spawning, but they commonly spawn over

the nest of a creek chub, river chub some males excavate their own small nests. The common shiner

feeds at or just below the water surface primarily on insects. Because it is common and readily caught

it is important forage fish for many game fish as a popular bait minnow, especially in the Northern

States for ice fishing. Also known as Silver Shiner, Redfin Shiner, Creek Shiner, Eastern Shiner.

Golden Shiner

The golden shiner are found throughout the U.S. with the exception of a few upper Western States.

Young golden shiners are silvery with a dark band on the side as they mature the band fades

developing a golden color with a dark bronze brown back. Golden shiners live in clear, weedy, quiet,

shallow sections of lakes, ponds, and occasionally rivers. Both young and adult fish show schooling

patterns in shallow depths no greater than 2-3 ft. Golden shiners spawn over an extended period from

May to July. Eggs are released, fertilized and allowed to settle into vegetation while mating fish

continue to swim. They have been observed using active nests of largemouth bass to deposit their own

eggs. This behavior is quite remarkable since largemouth bass are know to feed heavily on them. Also

known as Roach, American Roach and Pond Shiner



Mud Minnow

The upper part of the body is olive-brown in color, mottled throughout, with up to 14 indistinct brown

vertical bars on the sides and a prominent dark vertical bar located at the base of the tail. The belly is

yellow to white and fins are brownish, large scales, and they can tolerate low oxygen levels. Central

Mudminnows occur in quiet areas of streams, sloughs, swamps and other wetlands over mud and

debris and often found in dense vegetation. They tolerate low oxygen levels and extreme water

temperatures. Used extensively as a bait minnow where plentiful. Preferred bait for many walleye

anglers because of its hardiness. Also known as Mississippi mud minnow, Mudfish and Dogfish

Suckers

Suckers are found in nearly all types of waters with 80 species native to North America. The most

common used for bait is the White Sucker. White suckers are usually about 10-20 inches long and

weigh 1-2 pounds, some unusual specimens weighing as much as 8 pounds. Their color is olive brown,

and they have a cylindrical shape. The white sucker is widely distributed through out most of the U.S.

water systems. Although the white sucker is found in a wide variety of water conditions, these fish

typically inhabit lakes and reservoirs that have tributary streams. White suckers feed on a variety of

invertebrates found among stream and lake substrates. Young white suckers are used as bait for

walleyes and northern pike, larger suckers for muskies. The white sucker goes by a number of other

names, like common sucker, coarse-scaled sucker, brook sucker, gray sucker, mud sucker, sucker,

mullet, black mullet, slender sucker, june sucker and white horse.

Care and Keeping of Baitfish

When fishing with minnows and suckers having fresh lively bait can make a world of difference in

getting a bite. The action of a struggling minnow/sucker on a hook with a natural scent will draw

attention of nearby fish even enticing neutral or negative mood fish to a reactionary strike.

Here’s a few pointers in keeping your live bait alive long enough to be useful especially during the

summer months

1. Keep them Cool…..Nothing kills minnows and suckers quicker than extreme heat.

Keep your bait bucket in the shade and out of direct sunlight. Warm water greatly reduces the oxygen

content. Small amounts of ice can be added periodically, but do not overload the ice or the temperature

drop will shock the fish and kill them.

2. Changing the Water….. If the water in your bait container turns cloudy because of ammonia being

released (waste) by the baitfish or they are at the top gasping for air the water needs to be changed. If

you're on a lake or river make sure you temper the water in the minnow bucket to the same

temperature as the water system you're fishing by adding small amounts of water rather than

submerging the entire bucket. Rapid change in temperature will send the baitfish into shock and they

eventually die. In adding or changing water from a city tap use a de-chlorinator to remove the chlorine,

a few drops goes a long way. Most bait shops or your local pet store have chlorine removers in a

liquid. Water from a well or bottled water requires no de-chlorinator.

Note: (VHS) Viral Hemorrhagic Septicemia is a deadly fish virus and a invasive species that is



threatening many game fish in North American water systems. Before fishing with live minnows

and suckers, please check your Local Sport Shop / State Department of Natural Resources fishing

regulations concerning the use, transport and disposal of baitfish including the use of water from

bait containers. Please support and follow all regulations in helping the DNR stop this

threat.

3. Proper amount of bait…. Over crowding of minnows or suckers in a bait container will

immediately reduce the amount of available oxygen, and increase the toxic ammonia level from their

waste. If you over fill your container with minnows by the time you get to your destination from the

bait shop probably and 1/3 or more of your bait will be dead floating on the top. Here is a

recommended guide line based on minnow sizes and a standard sized minnow bucket at 8 quart

capacity.

Small ( Crappie Fathead Minnows) 3/4"- 1"

Standard 8 Qt 6 dozen

Medium ( Fathead’s, Small Chubs & Shiners) 2"-3 1/2"

Standard 8 Qt 4-5 dozen

Large ( Chubs, Suckers & Shiners) 3 1/2" - and Up

Standard 8 Qt 1-1 1/2 dozen

Large Suckers 10" -18"

Recommended 5 gallon bucket or larger 2-3 suckers

Rigging Baitfish

There are three basic options to bait a minnow on a hook. The first is in the mouth insert the point of

the hook under the lower lip and push the hook through the top lip, the hook shank will be facing

forward with the tip of the hook facing up. This allows the baitfish to look natural as it swims forward.

Lip hooked baitfish are used tipped on a jig or live bait rigs; sliding weight bottom rig, bottom

bouncers, drop shot rig or on a float/bobber set-up. By hooking the baitfish through the lips will keep

the water from circulating into the gills and it will eventually die. Check your bait often. Lip hooked

baitfish also work well on preserved baits.

The second option is hooking the baitfish through it’s back in front of the dorsal fin, be careful to

pierce only the skin and not through the spine. Using this method the baitfish will keep it alive for a

longer time. This hooking technique is used when stationary fishing, a floating/bobber set-up or for ice

fishing hooking a baitfish on a tip-up.



The final option is hooking through the tail for free-line fishing. Insert the hook tip at the fleshy base

of the tail and run it through, ending with the hook tip and shaft facing rearward. Use a simple split

shot and hook rig cast the minnow gently and let it sink and drift while it swims freely.

Fishing Baitfish Containers

The basic angling tool in keeping and transporting live baitfish to your fishing

spot is the minnow bucket. Years back galvanized steel bait buckets were used

and are still found in many tackle shops. Today the traditional minnow bucket is

still used only made from hard plastic. There are other styles and options

available to make your fishing more efficient and convenient. Here's a quick

overview to choosing the right style of bucket for the different ways you may

fish.

Standard Two Bucket Design

The traditional lift out bait bucket has a outer hard plastic bucket with a inner liner that fits inside. The

inner bucket has a floating cover with a snap open door the bottom is perforated like a strainer. This

lets the angler to select bait from the liner by lifting out of the outer bucket draining the water. It is

also useful when stationary fishing in keeping bait fresh and lively by placing the inner bucket liner in

the lake or off a dock as a holding container. Other features now include notches, holes and clips for

holding dip nets, air hoses, aerators and pliers.

Trolling Buckets

Trolling style buckets are ideal when trolling as they pull easily behind boat or in current when

wading. The weighted keel design keeps the bucket from rolling over and positions the self closing

bait door floating face up for easy access to your bait. The trolling bucket constantly aerates the bait as

it moves through the water.



Plastic Insulated Buckets

By combining a foam liner and the durability of a molded plastic outer bucket you have the best

portable container for baitfish. The inner liner keeps baitfish cool during the warm months it also

reduces freezing of water in colder temperatures. For storing baitfish for several days add a battery

powered aerator keeping the water oxygenated. The water should be periodically checked and

changed, over time the foam liner should be cleaned from residue build up with a fine grit sandpaper

and rinsed with plain water using no soap or cleaners.

Styrofoam Buckets

For the seasoned angler we can bet that you have a collection of Styrofoam buckets in your garage or

fishing shed. They do come in handy when you need a extra bucket or forgot to bring yours along to

the bait shop. Foam buckets do a excellent job of keeping baitfish alive in heat or cold they insulate

well and keep the water temperature consistent. The drawbacks are they are fragile and changing

water, with the solid lid design trying to pour out water with baitfish inside can be a tricky in not

losing bait. *Tip* For ice fishing foam buckets work very well in keeping the water from freezing but

the lid in colder weather tends to freeze to the bucket. To eliminate freezing lids, apply a thin layer of

Vaseline around the outer edge of the lid and bucket.

Aerators



Buying an aerator will quickly pay for itself by reducing the mortality rate of your baitfish along with

keeping your bait fresh and lively. Portable aerators use batteries from sizes from AA to D cells and

have clips for attaching to bait bucket lids with air hoses and air stones. Other upgraded options

include adapters to hook up to a 12 volt battery, a built in light helpful for low light and night time

fishing and low and high output oxygen level adjustment controls. Gentle aeration is the key, smaller

bubbles carry more oxygen, you do not want your baitfish churning around your bucket in waves. The

other consideration is sound, remember you will be listening to the humming of the pump while

fishing, invest in a high quality aerator that markets itself as whisper operation or quiet bubbles, in the

long run you will be glad you did.

Anglers that will store baitfish for an extended period of time in a cooler or a baitfish tank should look

at buying a plug in aerator rather than replacing batteries. This allows you to keep baitfish alive for

days in your garage, porch or fishing cottage. Some tackle companies sells 110 volt air pump systems

or you can visit your local pet shop and buy the components; air pump, hose and stone and save

money. *Tip* If your using a plug in aerator always keep the pump above the water line so water can't

siphon back if a power failure occurs. As a pump operates, it will vibrate and move around, secure the

pump so it does not fall off into the water, we can attest for this first hand, pump failure will result in a

bucket of dead minnows.

Fishing with Night Crawlers & Red Worms The earthworm is the most widely used bait for freshwater fishing and is one of easiest natural bait to

collect and keep. There are hundreds of species of earthworms in North America, all have the same

general shape but differ in size and color. The most common and popular worms used for bait are:

Night Crawlers and Red Worms.

Night Crawlers

For years the night crawler has been the leading live bait choice among the majority of anglers. The

night crawler is deadly and irresistible to most large game fish when used as live bait on a crawler

harness, any type of hook/weight rig, tipped on jig or under a bobber set-up for walleye, largemouth

and smallmouth bass, trout, catfish, and sturgeon. Using a small piece of a night crawler you can have

fun catching perch, bluegill, rock bass and other Panfish as well. *Tip* To make a night crawler more

visible and enticing to fish inject them with small amounts of air, this allows the bait to float off the

bottom when using weighted bottom rig. Bait shops sell worm air injectors, a small bottle with a

needle and a protective cap.



Night crawlers are easy to keep and sold at all bait shops, some gas stations and sporting goods section

at discount stores. Many anglers prefer to collect their own bait by yanking night crawlers out of their

holes in the backyard. If you're night crawler hunting the best time is evening after a hard spring or

summer rain, it can be as simple as picking them off the street, especially the ones that have low curbs

with grass parkways, darker streets are more productive than well lit ones as they are light sensitive.

Searching in grass under leaves and rocks where the soil is moist use a flashlight and cover the lens

with red cellophane, night crawlers for some reason can feel white light, shine a flashlight directly on a

night crawler and they will slide very quickly back into their hole. Night crawler picking is fun on a

warm summer evening after a rain, just bring a container and get plenty of bait for free.

Red Worms

Red worms also known as leaf worms, garden worms and red wigglers. They are very popular live bait

for game fish that prefer smaller worms, such as panfish, bluegill, perch and trout. Red worms are

hardy and not as sensitive to temperature as the common night crawler. They are also very active when

placed on a hook as they wiggle attracting and catching fish. Red worms are especially effective when

it comes to bait stealers, small mouthed sunfish that nibble at the bait, to increase the catch thread a red

worm on a hook and leave the hook point uncovered.

*Tip* Most youngsters are taught how to fish by starting out with hook, weight, bobber and

carton of red worms off of a dock or from shore. If your looking to set-up your child with

rod and reel here's a recommendation: Buy a quality 5 1/2 ft spin cast ( closed faced combo)

light action spooled with 6lb test, this will be better and easier for kids than the short brightly

colored fishing outfits that are available. For rigging purchase a package of size 8 aberdeen

long shank hooks a pack of BB sized split shots and a few bobbers that attach to the line

about the overall size of a quarter, the smaller bobber is intended to suspend your bait in the

water and alert when to set the hook. Using a larger bobber the harder it will be to set the

hook and detect a bite. To complete the set-up tie on the hook using a clinch knot above

about 6-10 inches place a spilt shot or two then attach the bobber.

Worm Care & Storage

Night crawlers and red worms are stored refrigerated in bait shops as they require a dark and cooler

environment to survive. When fishing with earthworms for the day they should always be kept in the

shade and out of direct sunlight especially when it‘s very warm. Nothing smells worse than a container

of sun baked worms. After your day on the water to keep your bait fresh either put them in a cooler

with ice, place the container on top you don’t want to drown your bait in the cooler water or place the

container in a refrigerator.




For keeping worms in a good condition for a extended period of time you should consider buying a

portable worm carrier. Most containers made of a insulated material that will maintain a cool moist

environment that worms enjoy. Some models can be dipped into water to aid in keeping them moist

others have external ice pack holders for hot days. To get at the worms easily many have two access

doors that you can flip the container over when they burrow to the bottom, make sure the container has

a snug fitting lockable doors. Another choice is what material to store them in. We recommend buying

commercially made worm bedding available at most tackle shops. The cellulose organic based

bedding makes temperature and moisture regulation easier. Many worm containers have kits with

bedding included just follow the instructions on the package.

Fishing with Leeches

Leeches are the most plentiful of all the baits. They can be left in a container of water for a long time

without food. Walleyes love leeches almost all year round and they are classified as universal bait for

walleyes. Fish eat many types of leeches, but only the ribbon leech is widely used as bait. The color of

a ribbon leeches varies from pure black to light brown and some have a brown or olive background

with many black spots. Leeches are easy to keep alive. They are not as sensitive to temperature

changes as minnows, and they require relatively little oxygen. Leeches can be kept alive until fall,

even without food, but they should be allowed to clean themselves. Anglers can keep the bait

"cleaner" by rinsing the leeches on a daily basis and storing them in fresh, clean water in a cool place.

The summer is the best time to fish with leeches; by mid-summer most of the adult leeches have

deposited cocoons and die off. Also, in the summer time the leech will wiggle more below a bobber

than a worm. When drifting or trolling, anglers will catch suspended walleyes on floating jigheads and

slip sinker rigs.

About Fishing Lures

For the beginning angler, walking into a bait and

tackle shop for the first time can be overwhelming

because of the huge selection of lures by type,

color and sizes. Many just buy a tackle box and fill

it with a random assortment of lures and hope

through trial and error one works, others just

purchase a lure or two and use it all day.

When building a tackle selection one must

consider the species of fish you're targeting along

with the season you're fishing in. Expert fishermen

understand seasonal locations of fish and the

proper presentation, meaning the choice of lure and

how to retrieve it. This builds confidence knowing

how to fish the proper lure at the proper depth to maximize your catch rate, and catching fish is the

quickest way to gain confidence.

When buying lures to cover multiple fishing presentations select a few of each type and color by using

these factors listed below.



Depth Depth is a major factor in lure selection. There are three categories or lure types, surface, sub-surface

and deep. Let's start with Spring, when most gamefish move into the shallow water to spawn and seek

food. Surface lures and shallow running lures are the best choice. During the Summer months fish

move to deeper water where deep running lures and jigs are used. When fall arrives fish tend to move

back to shallower water sub-surface and surface lures will be effective.

Cover

Species such as largemouth bass and northern pike will be related to weeds throughout the year. When

fishing thick weeds and brush use a lure with a weed guard (weedless) to prevent snagging. Always

have a few surface lures on hand as well when fishing around cover especially during the early

morning and evening hours.

Level of Fish Activity

The gamefish level of activity determines the size and action of the lure. For instance water

temperature affects fish more than and other elements, and weather conditions play a major role, such

as when a cold front arrives. Cold water reduces the fish activity and it is best to downsize your lure

and present your lure slowly. For muskies and northern pike use lures such as jerk baits and gliders

with a pause between in your retrieve, walleyes use jigging spoons twitched and paused along with

small jigs tiped with live bait crawled on the bottom will work well.

During warm stable weather as the fish's metabolism is active they feed readily. This is the best time

to be on the water to fish, inline spinners, spinner baits, spoons and crank baits with fast retrieves will

move and catch fish.

Lure Colors, Light & Water Clarity

Many articles have been written and theories discussed about lure color and how the water clarity

affects the colors. All water acts as a light filter depending on the clarity, (clear or stained) and depth

of the lure. It has been a general rule of thumb that lighter colored lures work the best in clear water in

stained or murky water fluorescent colored are favored. The other cliché is light color on bright days

and dark colors on overcast days no matter what the water color is. But this does not explain why dark

colors such as purple or black worms for largemouth bass works so well on clear water on a bright

day.

Lure Sizes Sizing of lures is also apart of the proper presentation. Here is a recommended chart for length of lures

for various game fish.

Crappies, Perch, Bluegills-1-2"

River Trout-1-3"

White Bass-1-3"

Smallmouth Bass-2-5"

Largemouth Bass-2-6"

Walleyes-3-6"

Salmon, Lake Trout-3-7"

Muskies, Northern Pike-4-12"

Fishing Plugs & Crankbaits

Fishing Spinners Fishing Spoons

Fishing Jigs

http://www.learninghowtofish.com/pages/fishing-plugs-amp-crankbaits.php

http://www.learninghowtofish.com/pages/fishing-spinners.php

http://www.learninghowtofish.com/pages/fishing-spoons.php

http://www.learninghowtofish.com/pages/fishing-jigs.php



Fishing Soft Plastics

Fishing Plugs & Crankbaits

Fishing with Surface Lures, Minnow Baits,

Crankbaits & Creatures

The word "Plug" was used many years ago to

describe a lure that was handcarved from a block of

wood, but most modern day plugs are made from

hollow plastic or molded plastic. Many avid anglers

still consider wooden plugs the best lure having better

action than similar ones made from plastic. A few lure

manufacturers still use wood in making lure bodies,

mainly balsa, some hardwoods and pine.

Most plugs replicate some type of baitfish but some

types of plugs resemble mice, crayfish, insects, frogs,

and snakes that fish prey on. Plugs attract fish by there

action and flash, producing sounds that draws the attention of game fish. It may be the vibration of a

minnow bait swimming through the water, or the splash pop and gurgle of a surface plug or just the

sound of hooks clicking the lure body. Many new plastic plugs today have internal chambers filled

with shot producing a rattling sound that attracts fish.

There are two category of plugs Surface (Topwater) and Subsurface (Diving).

Listed below is a reference guide to help you identify the common types of plugs and how they are

used:

Surface Lures: (Topwater)

There is nothing more exciting to see a fish strike a surface lure. Surface lures work especially well

when fish are shallow and the water temperature is 60 degrees or warmer. The water should be

relatively calm otherwise the fish do not notice the action. The best hours to fish surface lures are

generally early in the morning and at dusk into the evening. But there has been fish caught on surface

lures in the middle of the day. For lure colors a very good universal color is black, it works well on all

water types clear, stained or dark. Black provides the best silhouette against the sky as the fish looks

upward towards the water surface. Other colors will work as well dependent on the forage in the water

system such as Orange/Yellow for Perch, Green/White for Frogs, and White/Blue/Chrome for Shad

and Shiners.

Crawlers

http://www.learninghowtofish.com/pages/fishing-soft-plastics.php



Crawlers produce a plopping/gurgling sound, used on calm water with a steady slow retrieve.

(Left) This crawler, also known as a creeper, has wings mounted on the side that will swim across the

water. (Right) A large face plate will make this crawler body move back and forth producing a wake

on the surface.

Chuggers

Chuggers have an indented cup on the face of the lure, it catches water when the lure is jerked over the

surface producing a popping/chugging sound. A favorite of bass anglers for many years.

Center Rotating Blade

Commonly know as a Globe, this has been a favorite surface lure for muskie anglers for many years.

The center blade rotates upon the retrieve producing a bubble trail.

Rotating Tail

The tail section rotates creating a plopping noise from the blade attached. The tail rotating lures works

well on calm water to slight chop. Commonly used for fishing pike and muskies.

Surface Wobbler



The jointed surface wobbler creates a clicking sound as the lure rocks back and forth when

retrieved, and the tail prop adds a wake. Work this lure slow on calm water in the evening.

Propeller

The propeller lure has props on the nose and tail or on the tail, this topwater lure is versatile, run it

slow with a straight retrieve, pop it using a stop and go method, or buzz it across the water to trigger

aggressive feeding fish. Excellent lure for new anglers to experience top water fishing. Also know as

Propbait or Topper Bait.

Stickbait

The stickbait has no lip or propellers, they also have no built in wobble. The angler must supply lure

action through a series of short sharp cadence pulls upon the retrieve creating the side to side action

known as "walk the dog" on the surface. Also known as torpedo lure.

Flaptail

The flaptail rocks back and forth while the brass blade on the tail slaps the water with a plopping sound. The retrieve is very slow allowing the bait to work. Used

on calm water.



Subsurface Plugs (Diving, Floating, Sinking) There are two categories of subsurface plugs, both have floating or sinking

models. The first are diving lures that dive with attached plastic/metal lips or

dive based on the lure body design such as cupped, pointed head or a flattened curved forehead, all have a side to side wiggle action as they travel through the

water, these are commonly known as crankbaits. The second group of plugs refer to the action of the lure provided by the angler in the retrieve. These are

classified as gliders, jerkbaits and twitch baits, the action of the each lure is achieved through a series of cadence pulls, strong jerks, or short stop and go

techniques.

Diving lures will catch fish in any type of water calm or rough any time of the day. In selecting lures with a lip attached to

the nose of the lure the angle of lip will determine the

running depth of the lure, for instance a deep running lure will have a elongated lip attached approximately 90 degrees

horizontal from the nose which acts as a diving plane forcing the lure downward. Mid range divers will have a lip set at a

45 degree angle. Shallow running lures will have lip placed vertically off of the nose creating a water resistance forcing

the lure to run shallow.

Diving lures will run at depths from just under the surface at 1 foot to 20 feet or greater. All lure companies provide the

running/diving depth of each lure on their box or packaging.

It is wise to have a few of each to cover the fishing situations you could encounter. The deep runners are classified as 10 feet plus, mid range 5-10 feet

and shallow are 1-3 feet.

Floating Minnow (Crankbait)

This is the most popular type and the most versatile crankbait lure designed to



imitate a thin bodied baitfish. For shallow lures running at 1-3 feet as a floater this will maintain the shallow depth. Anglers who use midrange running

lures have a few more options. In casting the angler can pop the lure along the surface or crank it a few feet down to 5 to 8 feet with a straight retrieve. For

trolling using a midrange lip off of downrigger or lead core line the lure will maintain the set depth. When casting deep running lures this allows the angler to

bounce lures off of deep structure (bottom bouncing) such as rocks or wood with out getting snagged by letting the lure just float up after making contact.

Floating Shad/Perch (Crankbait)

Similar to the floating minnow style with a diving lip. These lures imitate the forage of shad and perch with a wider or fatter body style. Made from balsa

wood and hollow plastic with and with out internal chambers filled with shot to produce a loud rattle.

Floating Lipless (Crankbait)

The series of lures shown above have been made for many years, timed tested

and still today catch many fish. The lure body design to dive is based on a cupped, or a flattened curved forehead all have a side to side wobble action as

they travel through the water.

Vibrating (Crankbait)



These thin bodied lures do not have a diving lip and are attached to the line with

the eye on top of the head, resulting in a tight wiggle. All vibrating lures have internal chambers filled with shot to produce a loud rattle. Most are sinking

models but some do float at rest.

Sinking (Crankbait)

Also known as a countdown this lure is weighted to sink horizontally. When fish

suspend over 10 feet at a specific depth the sinking lure is a very good option to use. The angler simply cast the lure and count’s down at a rate of 1 foot per

second to the specified depth and retrieves the lure. The sinking lure uses a midrange lip to maintain the depth until the end of the retrieve.

Neutrally Buoyant (Crankbait)

Also referred as a suspending lure or a jerk bait. The lure is designed using an

internal weight system or a weighted tape to achieve neutral buoyancy. The presentation is an erratic jerk pause type of retrieve, when stopped the lure will

remain suspended and motionless in the water. Very good lure for finicky fish

that follows and don’t bite.



Floating (Trolling Plugs)

These are designed and used primarily for trolling as they are relatively too light to cast. Generally

most trolling plugs float at rest and dive based on the flattened forehead that creates a wide erratic

wobble through the water. To achieve the depth required for a successful controlled trolling depth

anglers use a online diving plane (Dipsey Diver) or attached to an line release on a downrigger.

Floating (Jerkbait)

These are large elongated plugs intended for fishing muskies and pike. They float

at rest and dive when given a strong jerk or pull then float upward to the surface. Many have a metal tail that can be bent to change the action and depth

setting.

Sinking (Gliders & Twitch)

Gliders and Twitch baits are lipless and sink, the action of each lure is in part

provided by the angler. The Twitch bait (Top) is retrieved with a series of short taps of the rod or twitches which gives the lure a erratic motion, up down side to

side action. The Glider (Bottom) is retrieved using timed cadence short pulls causing the lure to glide side to side or a underwater walk the dog action



creating a dart and flash of the lure.

Creatures

Freshwater game fish are predatory by nature there also opportunistic and will

take advantage of any food source presented to them to fill their feeding needs. Other than baitfish they will also feed on crawfish, frogs, water snakes,

swimming rodents, amphibians and insects. The above photo shows lures that imitate each type.

Lure Colors

Crankbaits are available in a spectrum of colors and finishes, painted, foil, chrome, prism, glass, photo and holographic finishes. In building your lure

assortment the best is to mimic the dominant forage in the waters your fishing. Here’s a simple guideline of basic successful colors:

Open Water Suspended Forage: Shad, Shiners, Ciscoes, Alewives, Smelt

Black, Green, Blue, Purple top with Silver sides

Black top with White sides

All Silver Chrome or White

Structure Orientated Forage: Perch, Suckers, Crawfish, Minnows

Black top with Gold sides (Sucker)

Black top with Silver sides (Minnow)

Black top with Orange sides (Perch-Crawfish)

Black top with Green sides with Bars (Perch)

Brown top Orange or Red sides (Crawfish)

Fluorescent Colors

For dark, stained or muddy waters the hot colors work effective, here’s a few top producers.

Dark Green top Chartreuse sides orange belly ( Firetiger )

Blue top Chartreuse sides orange belly ( Parrot )

Orange top & sides Chartreuse belly (Hot Tiger )

Red Head Chartreuse Body ( Clown )

Fishing Spinners

InLine, Spinnerbaits,Buzzbaits, Livebait Spinners



Spinners refers to a family of fishing lures that

have a metal shaped blade(s) attached to the wire

of the lure. When the lure is in motion the blade

spins creating varying degrees of flash and

vibration that mimics small fish. Spinners will

catch all types of game fish. Fish can see the flash

of the revolving blade in clear or stained water, in

dark or murky water they will use their lateral-line

to feel the vibration from the turning blade.

Spinners are relatively easy to use, they will catch

fish with a simple straight retrieve, and when a fish

strikes a spinner usually it will usually hook itself.

Spinners have four basic designs, first is the

standard inline that have a blade or blades that

rotate around a straight wire using a clevis, most

all inline spinners have a weight on the wire to

make the spinner heavy enough to cast. Second are

spinnerbaits, this spinner is shaped like an open safety pin. They will have a lead head molded on the

lower arm and a spinner attached on the upper arm using a swivel, some models have multiple blades

that are attached on the upper arm using a clevis and a bead stop. Third are buzzbaits, they are similar

to a spinnerbait or a inline spinner but have a specially designed rotating propeller for surface fishing.

Fourth are live bait spinners that use night crawlers or minnows on a hook or a series of hooks with a

spinner blade in front of the live bait.

Understanding Blade Styles

The main fish attracting component of a spinner is the blade. The type of blade and shape will determine the depth and sound (the thump) of a spinner upon

retrieve. All blades have a different amount of resistance as it travels through the water. A broad blade such as the Colorado will rotate at a greater outward angle

from the wire shaft producing a lift and thump compared to a narrow willow blade which will run tighter to the shaft and spin faster producing less sound.

1.Colorado 2.Indiana 3.Indiana Fluted 4.Turtle Back 5.French 6.Inline 7.Willow

From the image above the Colorado will run the highest in the water producing

the most vibration. The Indiana, Fluted, Turtle Back and French are intermediate styles running at mid range depth levels used for slow to medium retrieves in

light river current or lakes. The Inline and Willow run the deepest as they spin tightest to the wire shaft. These are good for fast retrieves in swift conditions,

and deeper water presentations. In using spinnerbait’s the willow blade is a good choice around vegetation and cover as they revolve tight to the upper arm

catching less floating debris and weeds.



Blade Sizes

The sizes of spinner blades are based on a numerical system starting with 0 or 0/0, the smallest for

stream trout spinners, size 3-4-5 for bass and pike up to the 7-8 for muskies along with the new

popular magnum 10. The larger the blade size the more water resistance and vibration when compared

to the same shape in a smaller version.

Multiple Bladed Spinners

Many of the spinners today offer double blade options. The inline spinner that

has two blades is commonly referred as a bulger which rides high in the water

even breaking (bulging) the surface when retrieved rapidly. Spinnerbaits that

have 2 blades in "tandem" provide more flash which gives the image of schools

of bait fish.

Blade Colors There are countless blade finishes, colors and combinations for spinners today on the market, the most

common are metallic hues with silver, gold and copper which provides a flash to sight-feeding

predators in clear or stained water. Painted blades flash less but create more underwater contrast. They

can be particularly effective during low-light conditions or in murkier water.

Spinner Tails, Skirts and Dressings

Tying materials to the tail of a inline spinner or silicone skirts on spinner baits adds a realistic

appearance and increases the profile of the lure as it swims through the water. The dressed tail also

provides lift and resistance enabling the angler to retrieve the lure at a slower rate. Years back

traditional hook dressings on spinners have been animal hair (deer hair, squirrel tails and "marabou"

from chickens) with a few feathers as attractors especially red. With the advancement of synthetics

materials such as flashabou and silicone skirts adds a fluttering flash in different incandescent or solid

colors increasing the total flash profile of the spinner.

Spinner bait skirts over the years also evolved from the solid living rubber colors to silicone skirts

because of all the available molded-in patterns, metal flakes, and incandescent colors.

Depending on personal preferences and fishing conditions many anglers prefer to use an undressed

spinner for speed and depth relying on the blade flash and vibration as the only attractors. Other

options are soft plastic tail dressings such as an imitation minnow or tailed grub. Soft plastics are also

used on traditional dressed spinners tails to change the appearance, profile and action of the lure, these

are known as trailers.

Listed below is a reference guide to help you identify the common types of spinners and how they are

used:



Types of Spinners:

Inline

The traditional inline spinner shown in three variations (Top) French Blade Dressed Deer Hair Tail

(Middle) French Blade Plain Undressed (Bottom) Willow Blade Soft Plastic Imitation Minnow Tail.

Double Bladed Inline

By combining two blades together adds vibration and lift upon the retrieve for shallow water. Shown

with double Colorado blades and marabou tail that pulses in the water, also known as a "Bulger"

Flash Inline



With the popularity of synthetic material used for spinner tails adds additional flash to the profile

(body) of the lure. The top is tied with flashabou (tinsel) the bottom is a round silicone glitter skirt,

both tails pulsates and sparkle upon the retrieve

Magnum Double Blade Inline

Similar to the double bladed inline only with larger spinner blades (size 9-13) providing maximum

vibration and lift. Very popular lure for muskies.

Spinnerbaits

Versatility is what spinnerbaits are all about. With the open safety pin, weighted head and single hook

design that runs vertical, it can be fished in and through vegetation (weedless) Slow rolled over cover,

allowing it to sink, the blades will helicopter down to deeper water. Used for all gamefish.



Magnum Spinnerbaits

A beefed up version of the spinner bait for big pike and muskies. The magnum spinner bait comes in 1

oz and up to 6 oz’s using large blades for increased vibration and large body profiles for big fish.

Buzzbaits

Buzzbaits resemble either a standard spinnerbait or inline spinner with the exception of a rotating

propeller blade replacing a flat blade. Buzzbaits are a topwater spinner and must be retrieved rapidly to

produce a loud clacking sound as they move across the surface. Excellent lure for bass and pike.



Live Bait Spinners

By combining the vibration and flash of a spinner blade and the attraction of live bait, these produce

an effective fish catching combination for most all species of game fish. The (top) is a weight forward

spinner that is tipped with a night crawler, this spinner is cast and retrieved, primarily used on the

Great Lakes for walleyes also known as the trade name erie dearie. The (middle) is a crawler harness

with multiple hooks (2 or 3) and is also tipped with a night crawler, this spinner is rigged on bottom

bouncers and sliding sinker rigs, for trolling of drifting. A single hook version is also used for

minnows. The (bottom) is a strip on an old time fishing rig also called Prescott Spinner. Made from

stiff wire with a rotating blade on front. The wire is slid through a minnow attaching a double hook on

the end loop.

Fishing Spoons

The metal fishing spoon lure was believed to be

first used back in the 1840's. Spoons are a simple

design, an oblong shape, concave on one side that

catches water producing a wobble and light

reflecting flash imitating a fleeing or crippled bait

fish. Because spoons appeal mainly to the sense of

sight they work best on clear or lightly stained

water conditions.

The long standing popularity of spoons results

from ease of use as a fish usually will hook itself

when it grabs a spoon. Spoons work best for larger

predators such as northern pike, largemouth bass,

muskies, walleye, salmon and trout.

The action of a spoon is based on it's shape and thickness. A long spoon will display a wider side to

side wobble than a shorter spoon. A deep concave spoon will also produce a wider wobble than a

flatter spoon. Thin spoons used for trolling have an erratic wobble compared to thick spoons but thick

spoons have advantages as well, the extra weight casts better, sinks faster and will run deeper than

thinner spoons.

There are five types of spoons: Casting, trolling, weedless, jigging and the surface spoon. Spoons are

stamped, forged or molded from brass, copper, steel, lead, plastic or wood. Most are painted on one

side with a polished metallic surface on at other side to reflect the sunlight making the spoon visible.

Some spoons have a hammered or rippled finish that transmits light in multiple directions such as

baitfish scales scatter light.



When casting or trolling a spoon the speed is critical for success, if fished too slow or too fast the

spoon will not wobble properly, you should experiment to find the precise speed for each spoon to

perform its best. When casting a spoon anglers will cast 10 to 20 feet beyond the area they believe the

fish are and retrieve through the strike zone. For flat line trolling from behind a boat the speed and

amount of line out should be the main consideration, as well as in using depth control rigging such as

downriggers and dipsey divers.

Rod Action with Spoons Dependent on the species you're targeting, small spoons for stream trout, larger spoons for bass, pike

and salmon or vertical jigging for walleyes the preferred choice when casting/jigging spoons is a stiff

tipped fast action rod. Ultra sensitive, soft action rods are not recommended as they do not telegraph

the fish strike as quickly a fast action rod will accomplish. Your success in using spoons is to

immediately set the hook upon feeling a fish bite.

Spoons & Leaders

Anglers using casting, weedless or trolling spoons should attach their lines via a leader with a ball

bearing swivel and snap or a combination snap ball bearing swivel.This allows freedom of movement

for the spoon and will keep the fishing line twist to a minimum. For surface and jigging spoons the

best is to tie directly to the eyelet or snap. Both will work better without too much play at the lure line

connection.

Spoon Attractors

The main fish attracting component on a spoon is the flash, some spoons have

additional attractors placed on the spoon or are added by the angler, they are:

Clickers: Two small willow spinners on split rings located the end of spoon for

vibration and noise. Flippers: A small oblong piece of plastic (red or yellow) for

added color attached on the split ring and hook. Trailers: For added color and profile

Feathers / Tied Tail / Soft Plastic or Pork Rind.

Spoon Colors If you ever had the opportunity to open Grand Pa’s old metal tackle box it would be safe to say you

would find quite a few of the traditional red and white casting spoons that where popular back in the

1940’s - 50’s. Following the same path as crank bait lure companies spoon manufactures have over the

years introduced hundreds of new colors patterns and finishes using prism, holographic, glow and

glitter all to enhance vibrant colors and flash of spoons.

In selecting spoon colors to build your tackle assortment, the choices can be overwhelming but some

colors have been tried and true over the years. For casting spoons in clear or slighty stained water the

classic colors of red and white with nickel back, black and white with nickel back, yellow five of

diamonds in red with brass back, and combinations of nickel/silver - gold/brass are your best bet. On

stained or darker water use, firetiger with brass back or orange/yellow and nickel combinations.

For trolling spoons on the Great Lakes the universal best color is all silver or gold with including

combinations of purple, blue or green hues to mimic the forage of alewives, ciscoes, and smelt. Many

Charter Captains on the Great Lakes use spoons as their main lure presentation and usually have a

couple hundred on board in multiple color patterns (some with creative color names) and size

variations to accommodate all fishing conditions.

Each body of water or river system fish will have a tendency to favor a specific color. If you're going

to fish an unfamiliar water system and spoons are a part of your lure selection, it would be best to do

research with local guides or the fishing pro shop for that lake or river.



Listed below is a reference guide to help you identify the common types of spoons and how they are

used:

Traditional Casting Spoons

Stamped metal casting spoons are also known as Traditional or Canadian spoons. All display the

distinctive back and forth wobble action as they run underwater based on their oval shaped cupped

bodies. Casting spoon sizes range from ultra light 1/36 ounce for panfish up to over 3 ounces for big

muskies, pike and lake trout. The most popular sizes are 1/4-3/4 ounce used for bass, walleyes and

pike. All casting spoons have either a treble or a single (siwash) hook attached with a spilt ring which

allows the hook to swing freely as the spoon wobbles.

Trolling Spoons

Trolling spoons are much thinner and lighter than casting spoons, a typical 3" trolling spoon only

weighs about a 1/8 ounce which makes them too light for casting.. They are designed to be fished

using a depth control trolling system such as off a downrigger or diving plane. With the wide fluttering

action they are an excellent lure choice for salmon, trout, walleyes or other open water species.

Weedless Spoons

When fishing in thick cover, aquatic weeds, wood and logs, you can't beat using a weedless spoon to



provoke a fish strike. Most feature a single hook design welded on the body with a wire guard to

prevent most snags. Experiment with different retrieve methods. Try twitching and pausing letting the

spoon settle into open holes. Or straight retrieve over and through the cover. Tip the hook with a trailer

for added attraction using a soft plastic grub or pork rind. Weedless spoons come in 1/4 ounce up to 1-

1/8 ounce.

Surface Spoons

When conditions are right during the summer months, large predator fish like bass, pike and muskies

will take refuge in thick cover. This is an ideal situation for using surface spoons. When cast over

heavy matted vegetation the spoon floats with the hook riding upward avoiding being caught up on

snags. Most surface spoons are made from plastic's with a few in wood with having an added attractor,

mainly rubber skirts. When fishing surface spoons point the rod tip directly at the spoon whether

you're retrieving straight or using a jerk pause method. Upon a fish strike, never set the hook until you

feel the pressure of the fish, then set the hook. As with all surface lures fish have a tendency to miss

the lure, keep the lure moving even if the fish misses usually they will come back to strike again.

Jigging Spoons

When you locate a deep water school of fish such as walleye or bass on your electronics, one of the

best presentations to reach them is vertically jigging. Jigging spoons are made of metal or tungsten, are

flat, thick and heavy and flash when jigged. They are designed to get down quickly reaching the deep

water holding fish. When fishing jigging spoons all of the action is applied by the angler using short

jerks to encourage strikes, but keep in mind many strikes happen on the fall of the jigging spoon as

well. Keep awatch on your line as it falls, if it stops or twitches set the hook. The best tackle for

jigging spoons is low stretch line of 12-20 lbs with a medium to medium heavy fast action rod.



Fishing Jigs

Many pro anglers feel jigs are the most versatile

and productive of all artificial lures. They will

work for a wide variety of species in almost any

type of conditions. Jigs, with the exception of

floating jigs, are weighted by melting a metal

substance into a liquid and pouring it in a mold

which shapes the head and collar. Most jig heads

are made of lead which gives the lure its weight.

Another popular metal material for weighting jig

heads is tungsten, which is heavier than lead and

environmentally friendly.

Jigs are a rather simple design and come in wide

selection of shapes, colors and weights, each for a

specific fishing presentation from the smallest at

1/100th oz for ice fishing up to 2oz for Stripers and

Muskies. The most common weight sizes for inland freshwater fishing are 1/64, 1/32, 1/16, 1/8, 1/4,

3/8, 1/2, and 3/4 ounces.

Jig Hooks The most common hooks used on jigs are the strong wire O'Shaughnessy or

light wire Aberdeen. A jig hook is bent on the shank before the eye about 60

to 90 degrees, the bend in the hook will determine the eye placement on the

jig and how it rides through the water. The hook shank length has varying

applications, short shank hooks are mainly used for live minnows, longer shank hooks are favored for

rigging soft-plastic grubs, tubes, worm or lizard bodies. Hook wire diameter is also a consideration,

light wire hooks are often used in fishing around brush piles and cribs as they will bend and pull free

when snagged, they're also a good choice when fishing for Panfish and crappies with soft mouths as

the light wire will penetrate quickly upon the hook set. Strong wire hooks perform well in weedy and

rocky areas for bass and northern pike when you need to horse a fish out from cover. Color of jig

hooks includes bronze, black and gold, with the most recent popular color red marketed as blood or

bleeding hooks.

Jig Collars The jig collar is positioned directly behind the jig head. Barbed collars have a

small hook to attach and hold soft plastic baits stopping them from sliding

down the hook other collar designs include screw locks or wire holders to

hold plastic baits. Straight collars are used to tie dressings or attach on the jig

such as hair, feathers, tinsel, living rubber and silicone skirts.

Jig Colors When choosing jig head colors one must consider the fishing conditions and type of water, clear,

stained or dark. Jig heads are available in natural, fluorescent, metallic, two tone and glow finishes. In

stocking your jig box start out with handful of basic colors: black, brown, white, yellow, pink and red

for clear to stained water, with fluorescent chartreuse, green,orange and glow for dark water.

Experiment and try various colors until you find the color choice for the day.

Jig Weights The main consideration when selecting which jig to use is its weight. Your selection should be based



on type of fish and water depth. When on the water the same steps should be taken with considering

water current speed and wind velocity while fishing. Your jig must be heavy enough to reach the

desired depth, but not so heavy that it sinks too rapidly. Fish prefer a slow drifting down bait than one

that just plummets toward the bottom. As a general rule use 1/8 oz for every 10 feet of water. If you're

fishing in fast current such as rivers additional weight is required to reach the bottom. Wind also has

the same affect as fast currents, by increasing the water resistance on the line and lure, which make it

more difficult to reach the desired depth.

A suggested jig weight guide line per species:

Panfish and Crappies 1/32 - 1/16 - 1/8 oz.

River Trout and Salmon 1/16- 1/8 - 1/4 oz

Walleyes and Bass 1/16 - 1/8 - 3/8 - 1/2 oz.

Northern Pike and Muskies 3/4 - 1 - 1 1/2 oz.

Lake Trout and Stripers 3/4 - 1 - 1 1/2 - 2 oz.

Jigs Dressed

Many jigs are dressed by adding hair, feathers, tinsel, soft plastic, silicone or rubber skirts to the

molded hook shank, it adds bulk and profile reducing the sink rate in replicating forage such as

crawfish, leeches, minnows and amphibians. Here are some common type of dressed jigs:

Listed below is a reference guide to help you identify the common types of jigs and how they are used:

Bass Jigs

These are also known as flipping jigs and are a very popular lure for largemouth and small mouth bass.

Bass jigs will feature a low profile stand-up head design from 1/8 oz to 3/4 oz, the lighter weights are

excellent for finesse fishing smallmouths, the heavier weights are used cover fishing largemouths in

weeds and for flipping (an underhand toss of the jig to a specific area). Most all bass jigs will have

some type of weed guard (strands of fiber or plastic) along with an internal rattle. The body dressing is

usually a silicone or living rubber skirt with some tied with hair. As the jig enters the water the

dressing pulsates upon the drop and will quiver as the jig is hopped along the bottom. A widely used

addition to the bass jig is a split tail trailer to replicate claws of a crawfish. Until recently the use of

pork rind were the standard trailer thus the phrase "Jig & Pig" was born. With the many advancements

of colors and impregnated scents in soft plastics today, they're becoming the popular choice with many

anglers.



Tied Dressing Jigs

Depending on their size dressed jigs can be used for most all species including: panfish, crappies, bass,

stripers, northern pike, walleyes, and lake trout. The dressing material is tied to the jig collar to form a

body they include: bucktail hair, marabou, mylar and tinsel which provides a mimicking life like

action in the water of minnows and other aquatic life. Dressed jigs also holds fish scent well and can

be tipped with live bait as an added attractant.

Soft Plastic Dressed Jigs

Fishing with soft plastic jigs bodies gives the angler countless choices of options from colors, scents,

shapes to types: grubs, reapers, worms, tubes, lizards, crawfish, leeches and minnow bodies. By far the

most used when fishing a jig and plastic combination is the curly tail grub. This presentation will be

successful for any freshwater game fish, straight retrieved or trolled the tail vibrations resembles a

baitfish, when using a split tailed grub or tube hopped along the bottom with short snaps replicates a

crawfish. Jigs tipped with reaper flat tail will imitate a leech swimming through the water. The subtle

action of a paddle tail on minnow bodies mimics a baitfish when retrieved. Recently many new soft

plastic baits have evolved by incorporating the jig head into the body of the bait, making the bait feel

more natural when the fish strikes. With these new soft plastic baits life like patterns and holographic

colors have been introduced to imitate the realistic look and flash of baitfish.

Live Bait Jigs

Fishing with live bait jigged slowly at times of the year can be a deadly presentation especially when

the water temperature is colder and the fishes metabolic rate reduces making them reluctant to chase

faster moving lures. Rigging techniques for live bait are simple, always hook the bait, minnows,

worms and leeches through the head or snout.



Jigs designed for live bait have no collar hook required to hold soft plastic's, they include: Round

head, swimming, wobble, propeller, stand up floating and weedless. For using live minnows the

preferred choice is a short shank round and floating head with the option of a stinger hook attachment

for short striking fish. Other live bait jig options are spinner blades mounted underneath the head to

produce added vibration and flash.

Floating Jigs

As the name of this jig implies they float. Floating jigs come in two types hard bodied and soft bodied,

both require using weights or a form of rigging such as: sliding sinker, bottom bouncer or simple split

shot rig. Floating jigs are used for live bait and are a great choice when presenting the bait just off the

bottom on lakes and rivers.

Weedless Jigs

Weedless jigs are an excellent choice when fishing live bait in cover, the guard prevents getting

snagged on weeds and brush. The hook guard is made of trimable plastic bristles, wire or a plastic V

shape and are anchored in the jig head facing upwards towards and covering the hook point allowing

the jig to ride over and through underwater obstructions.

Fishing with Jigs

Jigs can be a highly effective fishing presentation when the proper set-up (rod, reel, line and jig) is



used. Unlike a spoon or inline spinner, when a fish strikes the lure and hooks itself, a jig bite most

often is very light as the fish inhales the bait usually on the fall when the jig is settling towards the

bottom. To detect strikes more easily jigs should be fished with stiff (fast action) sensitive rod with

enough flex to cast your jig along with using the lightest possible line for the species and fishing

conditions. This will help you feel the bite on the retrieve or when the jig is sinking by keeping the line

taut. Many expert anglers use the fishing line as a strike indicator, when the jig sinks they watch the

line for any subtle twitches signaling a strike or if the line stops indicating a fish is moving upward

with the jig. To optimize the visual of fishing line jig fisherman prefer to use fluorescent colored line

over clear monofilament and wear polarized sunglasses improving the line visibility even more.

Suggested Rod & Reel Set-ups

Panfish (Bluegills Crappies and Perch)

Ultra light action spinning rod and reel spooled with 2-4lb test line

Walleyes Light to medium light action spinning rod and reel spooled with 4-6lb test line

Bass (Finesse)

Medium light to medium spinning action rod and reel spooled with 8-10lb test line

(Heavy Cover)

Medium to medium heavy action bait casting rod and reel spooled with 12-17lb test line

Northern Pike

Medium to medium heavy action bait casting rod and reel spooled with 12-20lb test line



Fishing Soft Plastics

The evolution of soft plastic baits has greatly

advanced over the years virtually giving anglers a

wide variety and selection for all game fish. Soft

plastics offer many advantages over hard bodied

lures such as crank baits and spoons that does not

have the soft texture as real food. When a fish

strikes a soft plastic bait it feels natural so fish will

mouth it longer giving the angler extra time to set

the hook.

In making soft bait’s the plastic is heated into a

liquid form then poured in a mold to replicate the

shape, grub, worm, baitfish, crawfish, lizard, frogs,

and insects. During the bait making process additional ingredients can be added to appeal to the fish’s

senses such as, scents, layered colors, metal flakes, and flavors. Other significant details of soft baits

today in manufacturing is to add life like realistic features like crescent rings on worms and grubs,

floating claws on crawfish, web feet and feelers on amphibians, holographic and translucent flash on

shad and minnow baits replicating the scales of baitfish.

Other benefits in fishing with soft plastics are rigging the hook, the point can be buried into the body

of the bait where it cannot snag underwater obstructions such as dense weeds, rocks, brush and logs,

but yet the hook will penetrate through the soft bait when you set the hook. Another is scents, they can

be treated with bottled-paste attractants or purchase them already molded in. Soft plastic’s will hold

scents much longer than hard bodied lures that wash off quickly.

Fishing set-ups with Soft Plastic’s In casting or vertical jigging the smallest soft plastic lures for panfish and crappies use ultra light

spinning gear spooled with 4-6lb test monofilament. Species such as walleyes and smallmouth bass

with a mid sized plastic’s use a medium light to medium spinning gear with 6-8lb test monofilament.

In using larger plastic’s with hooks buried into the bait that requires a strong hook set for large mouth

bass and northern pike use medium to medium heavy bait casting gear spooled with 14 to 20lb test low

stretch monofilament line. For muskies that have the largest plastic’s up to and over 1lb use heavy to

extra heavy bait casting gear spooled with 50 to 80lb low stretch abrasion resistance braided line.

Many rod manufactures specializes in making powerful fast action rods dedicated for soft plastic

fishing.

The popular use by anglers of soft plastics has skyrocketed over the years by the increased number of

new products introduced annually by lure companies this is evident with fishing tackle pro shops in

store displays, catalog pages for online and print buyers guides.

As a reference listed below are a few of the most commonly used soft plastics in order to help you

identify each type.



Worms

The invention of the plastic worm spawned more variations of soft plastic baits than any other in

fishing lure history. Grubs, jerk worms, crawfish, tubes, lizards, swim/baitfish all where developed

based on the introduction of the soft plastic worm technology back in 1949 by a Ohio luremaker.

Worms come in sizes from a few inches for trout and panfish up to 12 inches for bass and pike. The

types ( floating and sinking) and the colors of worms made today are in hundreds of thousands with

the multitude of color variations and scents. The main fish attracting action components of worms are

the texture (ringed, ribbed or smooth) affecting the sink rate and the tail (ribbon, twister, paddle, or

straight) which provides vibrations when the worm is moved. In rigging a worm, there are two options

pre-rigged with a hook or series of hooks, or using a Texas rig the most common, Carolina rig, wacky

rig and the drop shot rig.

Grubs

Fishing with soft plastic grubs has been a longtime favorite among anglers for all species. Grubs are

composed of soft plastic round body either ringed, ribbed or smooth, combined with single curly tail,

double curly split tail, paddle tail, or straight tails for various actions. Grubs come in various lengths

from 1" up to 12" and hundreds of colors combinations. The most common use for grubs is tipped on

a jig, or as a trailer on a inline spinners and spinner baits. Grubs are also popular to fish using a drop

shot rig, split shot rig and Carolina rigs.



Baitfish

Soft plastic baitfish come in numerous sizes and colors to mimic forage fish. Determine what baitfish are in the

waters you’re fishing and select a profile size and color to match, for a natural presentation. Usually the

smaller the better. Many soft plastic baitfish baits feature a paddle tail that wiggles when retrieved, but others

have curly tails and forked tails that give them swimming action. Fishing soft plastic baitfish imitations are a

excellent choice jigged along the bottom or brought in on a straight retrieve.

Tubes

Tubes are rounded hollow soft plastic bodied bait open ended with a series of tentacles on the base. The main

body is usually smooth but some have a ribbed exterior. The interior hollow design works well with holding

liquid or paste scents. Tubes range in sizes from 1"-2" for crappies and panfish 3"-6" for largemouth and

smallmouth bass up to 14" for big pike and muskies. Most often tubes are rigged using a weighted tube jig

placed within the tube’s body or to make a tube weedless anglers use a wide gap hook threading it through

the nose and securing the hook into the body on the outer wall of the tube. Upon casting a tube it will display

a spiral action on the fall with the tentacles undulating providing a injured baitfish look, in jigging the tube off

the bottom it will appear as a crawfish imitation especially good for feeding smallmouth bass. Tubes can be

rigged as bait using a Texas Rig, Carolina Rig, or on a drop shot rig.



Crawfish

The soft plastic crawfish or crawdad is a deadly on bass when presented along rocky bottom area’s. The main

feature of a imitation crawfish is the pinchers when tipped on a jig it gives the bait a realistic defensive

posture by raising it's claws that sends bass a signal to feed. Crawfish soft plastic’s are available from craw

trailers to the highly detailed featuring pinchers, antennae, legs, abdomen and tail.

Lizards

Fishing with a lizard in the early season especially during the bass spawn is particularly effective, as bass

absolutely hate lizards. Various lizards have a reputation as bass bed robbers, they will raid a nest and eat the

bass eggs even before the bass guardian has a chance to react. Lizards come is a wide variety of colors, scents,

ribbed, smooth, floating and sinking. The most common fishing techniques are similar to fishing plastic worms,

using Texas and Carolina rigs or tipped on a jig for flipping and pitching.



Leeches & Reapers

Leeches and reapers are a basic variation of a soft plastic grub, rounded head and body leading to a soft thin

membrane sides. The smaller reapers resemble a leech while the larger reapers mimic baitfish. The sizes start

from 3" for walleye and bass up to 12" for pike and muskies. Most anglers rig a leech/reaper tipped on a jig

head inserting the hook through the head or use a split shot rig and a single hook. Reapers are a good bait to

use on waters that receive a high amount of angling pressure.

Frogs

Using a floating soft plastic frog around the lily pads for bass is exhilarating as the bass comes out of the water

and engulfs your lure. The advantages of soft-plastic surface frogs are, they are weedless with the hooks

positioned against the body, they feel natural with their soft spongy body, so the bass will hang on to the lure

longer giving more time for the angler to set the hook. The best fishing tip we can offer while using a top

water frog is fish slow. After a cast let the frog sit until the ripples subside now pop or twitch the frog once or

twice, then let the frog sit for a few seconds and repeat. To change up the presentation upon reaching weed

pocket or opening let the frog sit and just barely twitch the frog so just the legs quiver. Summertime bass

laying in the weeds aren’t active most of the time, but can be enticed by a easy meal.



Magnum

From the 1950’s through the 1970’s the soft plastic bait industry was focused on worms and grubs used for

bass. That changed in the 1980’s when small basement lure companies started producing larger soft plastic

lures designed for pike and muskies. This spawned a revolution in the 1990’s regarding the soft plastic lure

market as larger companies began taking notice and adding larger soft plastic baits to there product line.

Today there are hundreds of variations, colors, combinations of hard bodied soft tail baits, some even

weighing 1 lb and 15 inches in length. Fishing with super sized soft plastic’s opened a new chapter and

presentation for pike and muskies anglers through out the world.



Fishing Tackle Boxes for Storage

When people think of sport fishing, they automatically think

of rods, reels, lures, and live bait. Having an organized tackle

box is as important fishing tool as you’re rod and reel set-up.

Organize all of your lures, baits and terminal tackle in one

easy-to-find location will enable you to become a more

efficient angler.

Today. tackle boxes and soft bags come in every size and

shape imaginable, leaving the beginning angler a vast array of

choices in finding one which is right for them. Starting you’re

tackle box can seem challenging, but if you stick to the basics,

you'll be able to get started with no problems.

In the decision process of which tackle box suits you’re

needs, consider the purchase of expensive fishing lures and gear as an investment, which requires

proper care and storage to be used for years to come. We have witnessed the unfortunate experience of

anglers lack of maintenance and care of their tackle only to find the condition poor and unusable upon

a preparation for a trip or on the water. It only takes a few necessary minutes to ensure proper care and

storage.

Follow these storage maintenance quick steps to ensure that your gear will be ready to go again when

you are:

Air Out the Tackle Box

Upon return from a fishing trip open the tackle box allowing the lures to dry. Hang the wet inline

spinners with hair or hard baits on the side of the box to dry. If you’re caught in rain and have puddles

on water in the box remove all tackle, wipe out all water, let the lures dry and replace. Rust on hooks

diminishes the strength of the hook and reduces the sharpness, rusty hooks also stains the beautiful

paint finish of lures.

Soft Plastics and Biodegradable Baits:

With the popularity of fishing with soft plastics and biodegradable baits we recommend for storing use

the containers or bags they were sold in, as many of today’s soft baits come with scents impregnated

into there bodies. When using soft baits for trailers ( a soft bait attached to a hook on a inline spinner,

spinner bait, dressed jig or a spoon) remove after use. Soft plastics through heat, sun or a chemical

reaction have a tendency to melt on the hook affecting the paint of a spoon or the dressing on a spinner

or jig. Biodegradable baits if left on will shrink onto the hook the has to be cutoff.

http://www.bbbaitbox.com/



Off Season Tips

It is a wise practice every year before the new fishing season or you’re first trip to re-spool new fishing

line and grease the reels. It’s also time to wipe clean and organize the tackle box. Replace any rusty

hooks, and split rings on lures, go through and organize the terminal tackle, hooks, sinkers and

bobbers. Time to add new lures you heard or read about for the upcoming season as well.

Once you start to enjoy fishing more regularly, you will find out the most productive lures and the

one’s that are not. Over time you will build a collection of successful lures learning what methods and

presentations work for each species of fish.

Fishing Tackle Box Features

In selecting a tackle box, consider these aspects before buying:

Size

1. The size and function of your tackle box should largely depend on your intended use. Muskie and

Northern Pike fisherman will require a larger box to hold lure from 6 inches and up, while panfish

anglers require a smaller box to hold terminal tackle and smaller lures.

The other consideration is where you fish; from a boat, or shoreline, weight and mobility should be a

factor. A large drawer type or hanging box is best suited for a boat where as the soft sided carry all is

best used for shoreline river fisherman or fly-in trips.

Durability

2. After organizing you’re tackle box the last thing you don’t want is the box opening on you spilling

your tackle and lures out on the boat, dock or in the water. A tackle box should be able to handle the

wear and tear of fishing and be strong. When buying a new box test the latch, make sure it closes tight.

Tackle boxes with metal latches hold better than all plastic.

Water Resistance

3. Most tackle boxes are made of materials that is water resistance. Check to see where the box closes

and if water can still in. Any moisture left unchecked can create mold and rust on the hooks. Some of

the higher priced tackle boxes come with watertight covers, ventilation and water drainage ports to

remove any water that snuck in.

Extra Space

4. Consider having a extra storage area for gear other than lures, leaders and terminal tackle etc. It’s

nice to have and you don’t forget the release tools (pliers, jaw spreaders and bolt cutters) as well as

head lamps for night fishing, hook sharpener and extra reels or line spools when the need occurs.

Fishing Tackle Box Types

There are numerous kinds of tackle boxes, each having its own special advantages and design

features. Here is a description of the most common types of tackle boxes



Trunk-Tray Type Box:

The trunk type tray box is the most popular and is usually the first anglers box or received as a gift.

This box has a long hinge cover when opened one two or three trays that accordion outward over the

lid which lays flat. Dependent on the size the lower half of the trunk-tray box generally is deep enough

for extra storage.

Many anglers own several of these types set-up for species specific fishing presentations. Trunk tray

boxes are usually smaller, fit well into limited areas and are light weight allowing the angler mobility

and quick access to there gear and lures.

Hip-Roof Type Box:

The hip-roof type of box is a modified trunk-tray box, when opened both sides have tackle trays that

also accordion outward leaving a large bottom compartment for additional storage. Hip-roofed boxes

provides a large amount of organized storage with multiple compartmented trays giving the angler

easy access and visibility to their tackle once opened.

Many anglers use the hip-roof tackle box as their home storage and use smaller trunk tray boxes for

day trips. However for long trips or if you wish to take along you’re complete tackle selection the hip

roof box are great.



Drawer Type Box:

Drawer type boxes are a good choice when fishing from a boat, where space is limited, it sits vertically

and the drawers slide out. They also are good for wet weather fishing with the exception of opening

the drawers everything will stay dry. From organizing your tackle, drawers can be identified by lure

type so you know before opening the drawer. Extra storage is a plus on drawer type boxes with a large

cover storage or a single bottom drawer, for storing reels, release tools, trolling tools (dodgers, flashers

and dipsey divers) hook sharpeners, flashlights etc…

As with all large tackle boxes some anglers prefer to use the drawer type box as their home storage,

and have smaller specialty utility boxes for day to day trips.

Satchel Type Box:

These briefcase type boxes come in a variety of styles and sizes, from one- to two-sided openers.

Satchels are versatile from small lightweight models that carry a dozen of lures or panfish terminal

tackle up to larger models that handle dozens of larger lures. The see through sides allow you to

identify lures instantly. They make excellent tackle boxes in putting together separate lures and gear

for a day on a lake or river trips.



Soft Side Type:

Soft side bags are becoming the most popular tackle storage systems in the fishing world today. They

are lightweight, waterproof and give the angle total flexibility to hold a variety of plastic utility boxes

along with having numerous storage pockets for extra reels fishing tools and a camera. The

convenience that soft side bags offer the angler is take only the boxes you need for that day. If you’re

crappie fishing no need to take the pike or bass gear. Now you can build component boxes per each

species: panfish - bass & pike - trout and muskie and use the soft side bag as the carry-all.

When making a decision to purchase a soft side bag bigger is better. Depending on the dimensions of

the bag, utility boxes can number anywhere from two to six or more, while two may work for panfish

and crappies, having six to eight will be more versatile for bass, pike and muskies. Make sure the

shoulder straps are padded, this helps when carrying to the boat or along the shore. Check to see if the

straps and handles have reinforced stitching providing toughness and strength. A sturdy waterproof

material is mandatory that resists punctures and tears.

Hanging Type Box:

The hanging box has become popular by Muskie anglers as the box of choice for storing extra large

lures. The interior features a set of removable dividers or a grid of square compartments made of

colored plastic or clear polycarbonate (Lexan) with slots to hang lures by the rear hook. This makes it

easy for easy access, view color selection, eliminates tangled hooks and allows wet lures to dry. The

exterior case are available in waterproof plastic, tightly woven padded material or clear uv-resistant

polycarbonate (Lexan).

The design of hanging type box also works well for Great Lakes trolling spoons,Walleye crankbaits,

Bass spinnerbaits, and with foam tubes inserts ideal for wrapping crawler harnesses, live bait rigs or

snells with storage for bottom bouncers and bait walkers. The hanging box are available from magnum

boat boxes, small portable over the shoulder carry on and boat seat slip over pedestal types.



Fishing Glossary

We have assembled definitions on common and not so common types of fishing words, phrases and

terms used in written fishing reports, articles, publications as well as online fishing discussion forums.

A

Active Fish Fish that are striking and feeding actively.

Adaptation

Biological adjustments to the fish environment.

Adipose Fin

A small fleshy fin on a salmon's back between the dorsal fin and the tail. All members of the salmon

family have them.

Algae A aquatic plant organism.

Alkalinity

Measurement of the percentage of acid neutralizing bases.

Alley Area’s in weed beds that lack weed growth.

Anadromous

Fish that live most of their adult life in saltwater but spawn in freshwater.

Anal Fin A single fin located beneath the tail near the vent.

Angler Any person who fishes with a rod and reel or cane pole.

Angling

Sport fishing for enjoyment, catching one fish at a time using a hook.

Anti -Reverse Reel locking system that prevents back reeling.

Aerator

Powered air infusion pump adding oxygen to water.

Auger Used for ice fishing to drill holes through the ice. Augers come in gas powered or manual back power.



B

Backlash

Overrun of fishing line from reel spool when casting.

Backing Line

Baitcasting / Trolling /Reels

Monofilament line tied between dacron or the new super braided lines to prevent line slippage.

Fly Reels

Nylon or dacron line tied between the fly line and the reel to act as additional line if a longer length

than the flyline is required to play a fish.

Bag Limit State Natural Resource Department set limit on number of game fish caught daily.

Bail

The metal semi circular bar located on a open faced spinning reel that retrieves fishing line.

Bait Casting A type of reel mounted on the top of the rod with a level wind revolving spool.

Bait Fish Main forage feed for game fish.

Bait Restrictions Limitations to the type of bait sport anglers may use.

Ball The weight attached to a downrigger cable for depth controlled trolling.

Bar

A lake structure consisting of a long hump or ridge.

Barb

The spur found on the point of fish hooks.

Basic Fish Needs Security, food and reproduction area’s.

Bay

A shoreline major indentation on any type of water system.

Belly Roll

A action using minnow or glider type lure by rolling exposing the belly flash.

Bite

When a fish strikes or takes your bait / lure also known as a hit and strike.



Blades Main fish attracting component found on inline spinners, spinner baits, buzz baits, tail spinners.

Blade Baits Weighted flat metal lures used for vertical jigging.

Blank Description for a unfinished fishing rod with out guides or handle.

Bobber

The bobber also known as a slip, cork or float serves two angling functions:

A surface strike indicator and a controlled depth presentation using live bait or lure.

Bobbin Tool for holding a spool of thread while tying flies, inline spinner and spinner bait tails which allows

the thread to be dispensed with a controlled tension.

Boga Grip Trade name for a fish landing, handling and weighting tool.

Bottom Bouncer A fishing rig made of stiff metal wire with a weight and formed as a number 7. Used to present live

bait or artificial lures on the bottom minimizing snagging on structure.

Break / Break Line

Description of abrupt change in depth, bottom type, weeds, or water clarity.

Bream Term used for Bluegill / Sunfish.

Bronzeback Term for Small Mouth Bass.

Brushline The inside/outside edge of a brushpile.

Brushpile Structure either manmade or by nature consists of downed trees, limbs and brush.

Bucket mouth

Term for Large Mouth Bass.

Bucktail A inline spinner tied with Deer, Squirrel hair or Synthetic dressings on hook.

Bulger Inline spinner with two blades also referred as twin blade and double blade.

Bullet Weight

A lead or steel slip sinker shaped as a bullet. Mainly used in front of soft plastic lures: worms, lizards

and crawfish for bass.



Bumping The act of making contact using artificial lures such as crank baits or jigs on lake structure (logs/rocks)

or the lake bottom to entice a strike.

Buzzbait Similar to the spinner bait used on the surface with a propeller replacing the blade.

Buzzing A type of fast or quick straight line retrieve, also called ripping, burning and bulging. Lures used buzz

baits, spinner baits, inline spinners and surface lures.

C

Cabbage

A common name for the submerged aquatic plant from the Potamogeton species.

Carolina Rig

A fishing rig used to present the lure on the bottom. The set-up is first a barrel slip weight typically ½

oz or more is threaded on the line then a swivel is tied as a weight stop, on the other end of the swivel

a leader is tied from 16” to 34” to the lure. To add sound place a glass bead behind the weight before

the swivel this will click upon the weight hitting the bead.

Carrying Capacity The number of species a specific areas habitat can support.

Catch and Release

Sport angling for fish and releasing them back immediately. Some areas allow sport angling, but

require release of fish, in these areas, specific types of tackle is required.

Caudal Fin The tail fin.

Channels The bed of a river or stream also found on flowages and impoundment lakes.

Chromer

Term used for steelhead or a rainbow trout.

Chugger Surface lure with a cupped mouth creating a splash when pulled.

Clarity Refers to the amount of visibility of viewing underwater objects or your lure.

Cold Front Refers to a weather condition when a high clear sky front moves in dropping the temperature.



Contact Point A term used to regarding any lake structure that provides fishing action. Such as a bar, rock pile or

weed edge.

Controlled Drift Known also as drift fishing, when a trolling motor, oars or drift sock is used to control a drift along

structure or direction.

Colors

Term used for number of color segments of lead core line.

Coontail

A common name for submerged aquatic plant from the Hornwort species.

Count Down A fishing technique by counting down a lure to fish a specific depth.

Count Down Lures Weighted lures than sink approximately one foot per second.

Cove A small indentation on a shoreline.

Cover General term used describing any type of lake structure natural or manmade that game fish relate too.

Crankbait Refers to a minnow imitating lure with a diving lip or lipless.

Creatures

General term used for fishing with soft plastics imitating: Lizards, Crawfish, Water Dogs, Frogs and

Tadpoles.

Creel Fish basket or personal fish carrier used to carry fish when fishing on or near shore.

Creeper

Surface lure straight or jointed with metal wings mounted on sides that provides a unique plopping

sound. Used on calm water.

Crib A manmade underwater fish shelter, constructed from logs 6’ x 6’ square with brush inside. Placed on

ice in winter for positioning.

Crimp On

Fastening sleeve used on steel and nylon leaders.

Cross Lock A type of snap tied directly to fishing line or as a component on a leader.



Crustacean ( Crayfish )

A aquatic animal with a segmented body and outer shell.

Crystal Flash Trade name for a synthetic stringy material used in many streamer, fly and inline spinner hook

dressing to add flash and color.

D

Dabbling

A fishing technique in which the angler works the lure up and down “Dabbling” in the same spot for a period

of time.

Daily catch and possession limits

Daily catch limits is the amount of fish, by species, that can be caught in one day. Possession limits

refer to how many an angler may have in possession while in the field or during transport.

Deer Hair Body hair from deer which is used in many fly, inline spinner dressings to supply body and floatation.

Depthfinder A electronic device using sonar that measures the depth of water, shows bottom type, structure. weeds,

and suspended fish. Also known as a Fish finder, Graph, Flasher or LCD (Liquid Crystal Display).

Downrigger Used specifically for constant trolling depth. The downrigger is a winch-type mechanism that feeds

cable off a rotating reel through a guide system along an extension arm. A weight is attached to the

end of the cable and the line release is attached to the weight. The fishing line from an independent rod

is attached to the release mechanisms on the downrigger cable. By lowering the weight (ball), you can

drop the line down to the desired depth. A footage counter is connected to the reel unit to indicate the

specific amount of cable that has been released. At the desired depth the reel is locked into place.

Disgorger A hook removing device that removes deeply embedded hooks from fish.

Dipsy Diver The dipsy diver is a circular trolling diving device attached to the fishing line that will enable to send

lures down to a set depth and out to the side of your boat.

Dodger A fishing rig component for trolling made from metal or plastic in numerous colors. The dodger is flat

attractor with bent edges that sways back and forth to mimic a feeding salmon. Tied directly on the

fishing line above a trolling fly or squid.

Dorsal Fin The large single fin located along the back of fish.



Drag

A braking device on fishing reels that allow line to feed out preventing breakage when the reel is

engaged playing a fish.

Drop Off A sudden vertical drop in water depth.

Drop Shot

A fishing rig used primarily for bass fishing. A hook tied directly to the line using a palomar knot

leaving a tag end for the bell weight attachment. The hook is usually 16 to 24 inches above the weight

and hangs at 90 degrees with the hook point up rigged with soft plastic worms or grubs.

Drift Sock

Used for controlled drifting or trolling is in effect a underwater parachute when deployed slows the

boat drift rate or trolling speed. Also known as boat brakes, wind fighters, boat-positioners, current-

compensators, and sea anchors.

E

Ecosystem

A complex ecological community or environment that contains organisms (eg, plants, animals,

bacteria) interacting with one another forming a functioning whole.

Edge Effect

Where two habitat types join together resulting in increased diversity for vegetation and wildlife.

Epilimnion The upper, wind-mixed layer of a thermally stratified lake. This water is turbulently mixed throughout

at least some portion of the day and because of its exposure, can freely exchange dissolved gases such

as Oxygen, Carbon Dioxide with the atmosphere.

Erie Dearie

A trade name for a weight forward spinner blade with single hook using a night crawler. Mainly used

on Lake Erie.

Esox Term used for describing a Muskie / Musky.

Ethics Personal code of conduct based on respect for one's self, others, and your surroundings.

Estuary

The mouth of a river where fresh water meets and mixes with salt water.

Eutrophication

The process by which lakes and streams are enriched by nutrients, and the resulting increase in plant

and algae. The extent to which this process has occurred is reflected in a lake's trophic classification:

oligotrophic (nutrient poor), mesotrophic (moderately productive), and eutrophic (very productive and

fertile).



Eyes Term used for describing a Walleye.

F

Fan Cast

Systematic series of casts covering a specific area.

Farm Pond Manmade body of water.

Fatheads A commercially sold minnow as live bait used for most gamefish.

Feeder Creek

Tributary to a stream or river.

Feeding Cycles / Times Best fishing times of the day or night associated with the positioning of the sun and moon and are

related to a solunar chart for major and minor feeding periods; Sunrise, Sunset.

Fillet Removal of bones and skin from flesh of fish to prepare for cooking.

Figure 8

Technique used on triggering fish to bite upon the completion of a cast. The figure eight is drawing a

sideways eight in the water with your rod tip.

Finesse Fishing A fishing technique by using very light tackle.

Fish Hair

Synthetic hair used in tying streamers and flies.

Flat Underwater area with lack of structure.

Flat Lining A trolling presentation by releasing line and lure off the back of the boat.

Flasher A fishing rig component for trolling made from metal or plastic in numerous colors. The flasher is flat

attractor with bent edges that rotates 360 degrees to mimic a feeding salmon. Tied directly on the

fishing line above a trolling fly or squid.

Flipping

A underhand casting technique placing a lure to a precise spot in a quite manner.



Flipping Stick A type of rod designed and used for flipping, 7-8 feet long

Float A term also for bobber, used as a strike indicator for live bait fishing.

Floatant Material applied to flies and leaders in order to cause them to float on the surface of the water.

Typically sold in liquid or paste form, although dry shake crystals have recently been found on the

market.

Floating Jig A jig hook wrapped with a floating material of hollow plastic or foam. Used with a weight to present

live bait off the bottom.

Florida Rig

Similar to a Texas rig for Bass with the weight attached (screwed on) to the lure

Flashabou Commercial name for a colorful synthetic filament material used in fly tying for adding flash to

streamers, inline spinners as well spinner baits.

Floss Material for tying flies.

Flowage A water system developed by the use of a dam for flood control. Low lying area’s, existing lakes and

rivers are generally used to develop a flowage.

Fly

Great Lakes Fly’s

Tied using synthetic materials for color and flash. Used behind flashers and dodgers to represent

salmon and trout forage.

Fly Fishing Fly’s and Streamers

An artificial lure hand tied using natural animal hair and feathers to mimic insects, larva and other

stream forage.

Fly Casting The process of casting a fly line out onto the water.

Fly Line

A weighted line which is cast out onto the water to deliver the fly to the desired location. Can be found

in many densities and tapers.

Floating Line A fly line design to float on the surface of the water along its entire length. Typically used for dry fly

fishing and shallow water nymphing.

Forceps

A surgical tool used to remove hooks from fish.



Fluorocarbon A type on monofilament (clear) fishing line or leader material.

Forage Any type of indigenous food for game fish, minnows, crawfish, frogs, mayfly larve nymphs and

zooplankton.

FOW

Abbreviation for "feet of water."

Front Any weather system that has a effect in changing temperature, rain, wind and barometric pressure.

Fry Life stage of fish still very young.

Full Core Ten colors or a full, standard 100-yard spool of lead core line.

G

Game Fish

Fish that are fished for as sport and subject to regulations of take.

Gear Ratio Measurement of number of times a reel spool revolves for each turn of the handle.

Gills

The lungs of a fish, as water flows across the gills the oxygen within them diffuses into the fishes

blood and is carried though out of the body.

Gill Net A net either pulled behind a boat or set from shore with floats on top and weights on the bottom to

make it hold it upright in the water. As fish swim into the net they are caught on there gill plates.

Gill Plate A bony protective flap that covers the gills.

Glider

Term used to describe a Muskie / Northern Pike type minnow lipless lure. A glider travels through the

water on a horizontal plane moving side to side by using a cadence pull retrieve.

GPS (GPS) Global Positioning System is a satellite-based navigation system made up of a network of 24

satellites placed into orbit by the U.S. Department of Defense. The GPS system make it possible for

people with ground receivers to pinpoint their geographic location in any weather conditions,

anywhere in the world, 24 hours a day. There are no subscription fees or setup charges to use GPS.



Graph

Term used to describe a paper recorded depth finder.

Grayline

A depth finder feature that allows the angler to distinguish between hard and soft bottom content, also

helps separate fish and important structures on or near the bottom from the actual bottom.

Greaser A term used for a Lake Trout.

Grubs A short soft plastic worm with a swimming/curlytail used on jigs, or plain hooks. Grubs comes in

hundreds of colors and shapes.

H

Habitat The area where organisms live. Must provide adequate food, water, shelter and space.

Hard Mono A type of leader material made from monofilament line.

Hatchery A facility where fish and raised for stocking.

Half Core

Five colors or "half" of a standard 100-yard spool of lead core trolling line.

Hawg Term used for large fish.

Head Lamps A battery powered flashlight type attachment on your hat or headgear for night fishing.

Holding Area Term used for structure that habitually holds game fish.

Holographic Type of flash finish on lures in manufacturing or added by using lure finish tape.

Honey Hole Term used for area that constantly produces fish.

Hook Hard wire formed into semi circle with sharpened point and barbed.

Hook Cutters Tool used to cut hooks from fish for releasing. Also called bolt cutters.



Horizontal Movement Distance of migrating fish movements remaining at the same depth.

Hump Underwater area higher than the surrounding area.

Hypolimnion The bottom, and most dense layer of a stratified lake. It is typically the coldest layer in the summer

and warmest in the winter. It is isolated from wind mixing and typically too dark for much plant

photosynthesis to occur.

Hypothermia The rapid and abnormal chilling of the body.

I

Ichthyology Study of fish, their classification, structures, habits and history.

Inactive Fish Game fish that are non feeding caused by weather / temperature changes, or fluctuations in water

levels.

Inline Spinner Straight wire lure with blade (s) a weighted body and hook dressed or undressed.

Inside Bend Term for the inside curve of structure also called inside turn.

Invasive Species A species is regarded as invasive if it has been introduced by human action to a location, area, or

region where it did not previously occur naturally.

Invertebrate An animal without a backbone, such as insects.

Isolated Structure Stand alone fish attracting structure can be a hump, downed tree, brush pile or crib.

J

Jaw Spreaders

A catch and release tool made from hard wire coiled to hold the mouth of a fish open in removing lures or

hooks. Mainly used for large game fish Muskie, Northern Pike.



Jerk Bait

The name jerk bait refers to the retrieve the angler uses by short pulls or jerks. There are two categories of

jerk baits soft plastic’s jerks and hard minnow type jerks. Soft plastic’s jerks are used primarily for bass. Hard

jerks are used for most all species including the larger jerk baits for Muskie and Northern Pike.

Jig A hook with molded weight attached in lead or steel. Jigs come plain undressed or dressed with hair,

marabou, rubber skirts and soft plastic’s.

Jig-N-Pig A bass lure using a jig dressed with a rubber skirt and a pork rind or plastic trailer attached to the hook

to mimic a crayfish.

Jointed Lures Any lure that has a single or multiple pieces that are joined together.

K

Keeper

Term used for game fish that exceeds the minimum set size limit.

L

Lake Modifications

Environmental elements on water systems that causes changes. Ice and wave erosion, droughts and flooding.

Lake Zones

Categories used to describing water zones: Shallow, Deep, Open Water, First and Second Break lines and

Basin.

Laydowns

A log or tree that has fallen into the water caused from beavers, erosion or wind.

Lateral line A system of sense organs in fish: a series of pores or canals running along a line on each side of the

body and on the head; detects pressure changes, including vibrations, in the water.

Larva Sub surface stage of development of an aquatic insect.

Leader

General

The leader is the connection between the main fishing line and the lure. Made from steel wire, nylon



or heavy monofilament the purpose is to minimize bite off’s from game fish. The components of a

leader is a snap - wire/nylon/mono and a swivel.

Fly Fishing

Section of line used between the flyline and the tippet. Often purchased as a tapered section, but can

be assembled by tying successively smaller diameter sections of monofilament.

Lead Core Line Lead covered braided line colored every ten yards for metering purposes. Comes in 100/200 yard

spools used for depth controlled trolling.

Leeches A commercially sold live bait known as ribbon leech not the blood sucking variety. Used for most

game fish when available during the fishing season.

Lentic

Still water systems such as lakes and reservoirs

Life Vest Personal floatation devices (PFD) to be worn while boating to keep person afloat if overboard.

Limiting Factor A biological limitation to a self-sustaining fish population.

Light Intensity Refers to the amount of sunlight that can be measured at certain depths of the water column.

Line Guides Rod rings in which the line is held on a fishing rod.

Line Releases Used on planer boards and downrigger weights, releases hold the fishing line until a strike from a fish.

Clip on and tension held are the most popular.

Lindy Rig

Trade name for a popular live bait bottom rig using a walking sinker a line stop with a length of line

attached to a hook or floating jig head.

Lipless Crankbaits Minnow or shad type lures, fishing line is attached directly to the lure. Action is a tight vibrating

wobble, some have internal rattles.

Live well

Aerated storage compartments found on boats for keeping the caught fish alive.

Lotic

Moving water systems such as streams and rivers.

Logjam

A collection of downed trees usually found by shore, bays or backwaters on rivers caused by current.



Lunker

Term used for large fish caught.

Lure

Any artificial bait used to attract and catch fish.

M

Marabou

Used for hook dressing on fly’s, inline spinners and spinner baits. Marabou used today comes from

young turkey feathers dyed in many colors.

Maximum Size Limit

A fishing regulation which protects larger fish. Fish at or above stated size must be released.

Metalimnion The middle or transitional zone between the well mixed epilimnion and the colder hypolimnion layers

in a stratified lake. This layer contains the thermocline but is loosely defined depending on the shape

of the temperature profile.

Minimum Size Limit A fishing regulation which protect smaller fish. Fish not meeting the minimum size must be released.

Migration Patterns Established patterns or paths that game fish use moving one area to another

Minnow Bucket A metal or plastic live bait container for minnows. Perforated floating bait buckets can be dropped

over the side of a boat or dock to allow a constant flow of fresh water. For solid bait buckets, a battery-

powered aerator will keep bait alive all day.

Minnow Trap Minnow traps are cylindrical, double-ended wire or plastic mesh funnels that narrow in the middle.

They work on the principle that a small fish will swim into the trap to find food and is unable to find

the way out. Minnow traps are baited with a sticky mix of oatmeal or cornmeal rolled into a golf-ball-

sized clump. The ball slowly breaks up providing fresh bait for long periods. Suspend the trap near a

dock, on a stream, or at the head of a pool where the current slows.

Milfoil

A common name for submerged aquatic plant from the Myriophyllum species. Known as a invasive

plant species

Mono Abbreviation for monofilament line.

Moon Phases Moon times or phases are considered by anglers best fishing times when the fish are feeding. There are

four phases of the lunar cycle, the best is three days prior and after the new of full moon. The first and

second quarter of the moon is rated as good fishing.



Mud Minnow A commercially sold minnow as live bait used on most game fish.

N

Night Bite Term for active fishing at night.

Night Crawler A earth worm used as live bait, used on most game fish

Neutrally Buoyant In context used to describe a suspending crank bait, upon stopping the retrieve the bait will remain at

that water level.

Nets

Nets serve multiple purposes for fishing, landing fish, bait nets and as floating live wells.

O

Off Color

Refers to water color such as stained or dark water.

Outside Bend

Term for the outside curve of structure also called outside turn.

Oxbow U shaped bend in a creek or river.

P

Paper Mouth

A term for crappie.

Pattern

A repetitive series of location and presentations that consistently produces fish.

Pectoral Fin

The paired fins located just behind the gills along the abdomen. Their function is to help the fish stop

and turn.

Pegging

Placing a tooth pick in slip weights in order to fasten to the line.



PFD

Abbreviation for Personal Floatation Device or Life Jacket.

PH A measurement for liquids to determine acidity or alkaline. A rating of 0 to 14 is used, water with less

than 7 is acidic.

PH Meter A meter to measure acidity or alkaline.

Pick-Up Term for soft bite or lite hit from a game fish.

Pit

Old mine that filled with water.

Pitching A fishing technique by under handing a lure to a designated spot or area.

Pixels Found on LCD liquid crystal depth finder display screens. A pixel is short for picture element a single

point in a graphic image. LCD’s display the water below by dividing the screen into thousands of

pixels, arranged in rows and columns The pixels are so close together that they appear connected. In

purchasing a LCD depth finder the higher number of pixels the better screen resolution and clearer

images.

Planer Boards Used for trolling, planer boards are flat made from plastic or a dense floating foam with a beveled

edge. They are attached to the fishing line by the use of a line release ( clip on / tension clip). Using

planer boards allows the angler to run mutltiple lines by planning the boards off each side of the boat.

Upon a fish strike the board will release to play the fish. On Great Lakes rigging a single release is

used and a snap, keeping the board on the line.

Plankton Small or microscopic plants and animals that float or drift in great numbers especially at or near the

surface, and serve as food for fish and other larger game fish.

Pocket

Small opening in weeds or indentation on a shoreline.

Point

A outcropping or finger of land projecting into a water system.

Polarized Sunglasses

Polarized sunglasses reduces glare from the sun and allows the angler to view into the water. They

work on the principle blocking the horizontal polarized light reflections by the vertically oriented

polarizers in the lenses. Polarized lenses may also react adversely with liquid crystal displays LCDs

depth finders in reading the display screen.

Poppers Surface lure with a cupped mouth creating a splash when popped. Used for flying fishing and bass.



Pork Rind Made from pig skin pork rind attach as trailers to lures for added action.

Post Front The weather after cold front moves through bringing clear blue bird skies and cooler temperatures.

Presentation

A term encompassing all elements in catching fish. Lure types and color, water depth, structure,

retrieve or trolling technique which makes a successful presentation.

Prism Type of flash finish on lures in manufacturing or added by using lure finish tape.

Q

Quick Strike Rigs

A fishing rig of multiple hooks placed on live bait in order to set the hook upon a strike of a fish. Used

primarily for ice fishing and muskie fishing with suckers.

R

Rattles

Small metal balls used on inside of lures to create sound.

Red Tail Chub A commercially sold minnow as live bait for Northern Pike and Walleyes.

Red Worms A earth worm mainly used as bait for sunfish and perch.

Reef

Any submerged structure protruding off the bottom, natural such as rock piles or sand that vary in size

and depth. An artificial reef is man made built for the purpose of promoting a underwater ecosystem in

areas of generally a featureless bottom.

Reservoir A type of water system that is developed by the use of a dam.

Ripple Tail Type of flat tail made on soft plastic lures that ripple or undulate in the water. Also called curly tail,

swimming tail, squirmin tail, and squirrelly tail.

Riprap A man made stretch of boulders and rocks to prevent land erosion attracting many game fish. Found

mainly on reservoirs, impoundment and flowages.



Rosy Reds A commercially sold minnow as live bait available in the winter months for ice fishing.

Rough Fish Fish not considered sport fish and generally not regulated.

Rubber Core Sinker A type of elongated sinker with a rubber core to attach ( twist on ) fishing line.

S

Saddle

Lake structure that narrows and opens to a wide area.

Sanctuary Area’s where fish are protected by the state Natural Resource Department.

Scents Also known as fish formulas and attractants are marketed as sprays, liquids and jellies applied to lures

to mask the human odor and attract game fish. Scents also are impregnated in manufacturing of soft

plastic lures. Scents come in numerous different flavors or odors ranging from forage scents, crawfish,

shad, minnow to spices, fruits and vegetables, salt, anise, cherry and garlic.

Scoop

Made in metal or plastic, a handle with a strainer type scoop to clean ice fishing holes.

Search Lures Lures used in a quick presentation such as fan casting a areain order tofind aggressive fish, inline

spinners, crank baits, and spinner baits are generally used.

Seine A net laid out in a circle around a school of bait fish. After the school is surrounded, the bottom of the

net is drawn shut to trap the fish.

Seven Strand Leader A type of leader material using seven strand flexible wire.

Shad Tail A type of tail on a lure that shakes back and forth. Used on soft plastic lures.

Short Strike Term for missed fish or short bite.

Single Strand Leader A leader component made from a single steel hard wire, used for Muskie and Northern Pike on jerk

baits and gliders



Sinking Line

A flyline design to sink below the surface of the water for getting a wet fly or streamer down deeper.

Can be found with different sink rates for different fishing styles

Sinkers

Any type of weight used for fishing rigs, made from lead or steel.

Size Limits

Fishing regulations which limits anglers to keep fish based upon size.

Ski

Short term used for describing a Muskie / Musky.

Slider A trolling rig by attaching multiple fishing lines to a single down rigger cable and weight by using

sliding releases.

Slip Bobber A fishing rig component that uses a float/bobbermade of wood or dense foam around a hollow tube, in

which the fishing line slips through to a line knot/stop above the weight and hook. The slip bobber is

used for deep water live bait presentations mainly for walleyes and crappies and panfish.

Slip Sinker Any sinker that fishing line passes through. A slip sinker rig is well suited when still fishing the

bottom for light biting fish such as walleyes. Once they take in the bait they can pull the line through

the sinker eye not feeling any resistance which would cause them to spit out the bait.

Slit

Refers to the lake bottom content also known as muck.

Slot Limit Fishing regulation which requires release of fish within a listed size range (or slot).

Slough A narrow stretch of water such as a creek of stream off a lake or river system.

Slow Roll A fishing retrieve by slow rolling a spinner bait or weedless spoon over cover, weeds, wood, rocks or

on the bottom.

Snap A rigging component used to connect the lure from a leader or directly to the fishing line.

Snubbers

Used on trolling rigs from the Dipsy Diver to the leader. A snubber is a length of surgical tubing with

a swivel attached at both ends. Inside the tubing is a coiled piece of heavy line. When a fish strikes a

trolled lure, the snubber stretches out to absorb the impact and then retracts.

Soft Plastic’s

A category classification of any lure made from soft plastic’s.



Soft Tail Lures

Hard bodied lures incorporating a soft plastic swimming or shad tail.

Spawning Reproductive activity of fish; the act of releasing eggs into the water by female fish for fertilization by

male fish.

Spawn Sac’s A effective bait used for Salmon, Steelhead and Trout when spawning occurs in streams and rivers.

Spawn Sac’s are made from fish egg’s or roe tied together in using a fine mesh netting. Used as bait on

a drift fishing bottom rig.

Spincaster

A closed face spinning fishing reel mounted on the top of a rod employing a push button release for

casting.

Spinner Bait A safety pin styled lead head wire blade (s) lure with a single hook dressed with rubber skirt hair or

soft plastic’s.

Spinning Reel A open faced reel mounted underneath the rod. The line is retrieved in a spinning fashion over the bail.

Splash Tail

A surface lure with a bell shaped metal tail attached on the end that flaps side to side also known as a

flap tail.

Split Ring

A lure component (wired ring) connecting the hooks to the lure.

Split Shot Type of round weight made from lead or steel that is pinched on fishing line.

Split Shotting

A finesse rig by using a small split shot above a single light wired hook using live bait or small soft

plastic’s.

Spoons

Considered one of oldest lures used in fishing, spoons are made from metal with hooks attached,

virtually used for all game fish with thousands of varieties and colors.

Spring Fed Water system that is supplied water through a underground spring.

Spud

A ice fishing metal chisel to clean frozen over holes. Usual lengths approximately 4 to 5 feet.

Stained Water Refers to water color caused by minerals tree roots or drainage.

Stick Bait



A lipless slender plug or topwater lure that is given action by the angler manipulating the rod and reel,

making the bait go back-and-forth to resemble a wounded baitfish, which is called "walking the dog."

Stick-Ups Any above surface stationary structure such as tree stumps or limbs, old bridge pilings and fence posts.

Stinger Hook Additional hook added to a lure or jig as called trailer hook.

Stink Bait Home made or commercially bought stink baits are concoctions of ingredients that produces a unique

aroma that attract catfish and carp.

Stragglers

Term used when a school of fish move and a few stay behind.

Stringer A steel or nylon cable with or without snap hooks to keep fish.

Strip On’s A old time fishing rig also called Prescott Spinner. Made from stiff wire with a rotating blade on front.

The wire is slid through a minnow attaching a double hook on the end loop.

Structure Underwater structure is basically all solid objects rising from the bottom of a lake or river that isn't

part of the actual bottom as in tree’s, brush piles, cribs and rocks which creates habitats for feeding

fish.

Suckers A commercially sold minnow as live bait for Northern Pike, Walleyes and Muskies.

Suspending Lures

In context used to describe a suspending crank bait, upon stopping the retrieve the bait will suspend at

that water level. Also called Neutrally Buoyant Lure.

Suspended Fish

Fish that relate to open water away from structure.

Swimming Lures Any type of lures that are designed to swim as a baitfish by providing a wobble, vibrate or wiggle

motion.

Swivel A rigging component with many uses. Swivels acts as a line stop and rigging connectors for bottom

rigs also connects the fishing line to a leader to prevent line twist.

T



Tackle Box A container that stores fishing equipment in a organized manner for transporting and protecting the

tackle from the weather elements.

Tail Gunner

A muskie rig by attaching a combination of a single hook, snap swivel and blade to a soft plastic lure

or live sucker to add attraction and color.

Tail Spinners A tear drop weighted head jig with a blade mounted on the tail used for vertical jigging.

Taper

Underwater structure gently slopes downward.

Terminal Tackle

A category classification for rigging components such as: hooks, weights swivels, snaps, split rings,

and bobber stops.

Terrestrial

Term used to describe land-based insects which are often food for fish.

Test A measurement of fishing line strength as stated on the label.

Texas Rig A weedless bottom rig used on soft plastic lures. To rig a bullet weight is threaded on the line then a

hook is tied. To make the rig weedless insert the hook about 3/8 of a inch in the front of the lure, push

the hook to the eye, turn the hook and insert the point back into the lure with out exposing the point of

the hook. Used on soft plastic worms, crawfish and lizards.

Thermocline During the summer months lakes stratify into layers. These are areas underwater where warmer layers

of water meet cooler layers, this is the themocline and where fish are often active. Generally, baitfish

hang just above the thermocline, while larger game fish are found suspended in or just below it.

Thumper Tail Lure

A jointed surface lure with a rotating rear section using a metal cupped tail blade.

Tinsel A metallic filament used in lure tying to provide flash and color on great lakes flies, inland stream flies

as well as bucktails.

Tippet The monofilament section of the fly rig between the leader and the fly.

Tip Down Used for ice fishing a tip down is made of wood or plastic, shaped as a H with a base. The function of

a tip down is a rod holder and a strike indicator. The ice fishing rod is held on a tip down balancing on

a pivot rod at a 45 degree angle upward maintaining depth control of the bait. Upon a fish strike the

rod will follow a downward motion indicating a fish strike.



Tip-Up

Used for ice fishing a tip up is a set rig using a cross piece of plastic or wood with a spring loaded wire

and flag attached. Centered on the cross piece is a metal tube filled with anti freeze attached to a reel

on the bottom and a trip bar on top. The tip up rig is placed over a ice fishing hole on the cross piece

with the metal tube turned vertically and placed in to the water. The amount of line used is held by the

trip rod using the metal wire with the flag. Upon a fish strike the reel will turn moving the trip rod

releasing the flag.

Topper Lure A straight top water lure with propellers in front and back.

Topwater Lure Any lure that floats on the water also known as a surface lure.

Torpedo Lure A top water lure shaped as a cigar or torpedo. The retrieve used is “Walk the Dog” using short cadence

snaps making the lure move side to side.

Trailer Hook Additional hook added to a lure or jig as called stinger hook.

Transition A term used when describing changing of water bottom conditions such as hard to soft, weeds to rocks

etc… Also used in fish migration context.

Treble Hook

A three pronged hook used on most all lures.

Tributary

A stream that flows into a larger stream.

Triggering

The act of causing a fish to bite / strike a lure or live bait.

Trolling

A fishing method where fishing lines are pulled behind a boat to attract and catch fish.

Trolling Board

A trolling board are either single ordouble in make up. They are drawn through the water by a

connecting line from the boat or mast to the board itself unlike a planer board that is connected to the

fishing line. Trolling boards allows the angler to run multiple rod set-ups by placing sliding releases on

the connecting line.

Trolling Motor A electric small fishing motor powered by marine batteries, mounted on the bow or stern. Used for

controlled drifting / casting and boat positioning.

Tubes A hollow bodied soft plastic lure tipped with tentacles, rigged with a jig or hook inside. Used for all

game fish.



Turnover Fall cooling and spring warming of surface water act to make density uniform throughout the water

column. This allows wind and wave action to mix the entire lake. Mixing allows bottom waters to

contact the atmosphere, raising the water's oxygen content. However, warming may occur too rapidly

in the spring for mixing to be effective, especially in small sheltered lakes.

Twitching A fishing retrieve, the act of popping a minnow type lure on the surface to sub surface creating a

erratic motion of a distressed baitfish.

V

Vertical Movement

Up and down movement of fish through water columns also a fishing technique by jigging.

Vise The tool used to hold a hooks or lures in place while tying or building lures.

Vest A piece of clothing used to hold various tools, fly boxes and other equipment while fishing.

W

Waders

Protective outer clothing used to keep the fisherman dry when standing or float-tubing in water. Typically

made of neoprene, nylon, or a Gore-Tex-like material. Can be insulated to supply warmth.

Walk the Dog

A fishing retrieve used on the surface by snapping a torpedo type lure with short cadence snaps to move the

lure side to side.

Walking Sinker

Used on bottom rigs made from lead or steel The walking sinker is designed to pivot on it's heel and

let the line slide through the eye. It's shape also prevents it from rolling and the streamlined shape

resists snags.

Waxworms

The wax worm is the larvae of the wax moth, the larvae are milky white or light tan about 3/4" in

length. Favorite bait for panfish used year round.

Waypoint

A GPS term for location, spot, or destination (latitude/longitude) that can be stored in memory to be

recalled and used at a later time for navigation purposes.



Weedless A term used to describe making a lure, jig or hook minimize snagging on weeds or wood by using a

wire, fiber or plastic guards over the hook.

Weedline A weed line or weed edge is caused by a change in depth, or transition of the bottom type.

Wire Line

Used for deep water trolling, wire line is available in single wire or stranded made of copper and

nickel-copper alloy and stainless steel.

Wobbler A international term used to describe a jointed plug or crank bait.

Wolf River Bait Rig Popular river bottom fishing rig named after the river it is used on. The basic components are a bell

sinker with a length of line to a three way swivel connecting to the rod and a short leader to the hook.

Worm’n

A bass fishing technique using a soft plastic worm, lizard or crawfish, Cast drop and drag slowly.

Worm Harness A fishing rig using a leader with multiple single hooks for night crawlers along with a combination of

blades and or floats.

Z

Zooplankton

Small or microscopic animals that float or drift in great numbers in water, especially at or near the surface,

and serve as food for fish and other larger organisms.

about fishing

Documents