› uploads › ... · prelude to july’s bigger event. while i can-2018-03-02 · presentations,...

41

Upload: others

Post on 25-Feb-2020

0 views

Category:

Documents


0 download

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either
Page 2: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either
Page 3: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

The January rendezvous for haute couture and high jewellery is always an interesting prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-not report any particular trend in the recent presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close or open a new chapter, while all kept con-tributing to their legacy one jewel at a time. We saw DIOR offer a third and final episode in the detailed voyage into Versailles, this time with stories of hidden doorways and ghosts in Dior à Versailles, Pièces Secrètes, while CHAUMET opened their own tril-ogy, Les Mondes de CHAUMET, with a Padparadscha sapphire romance, a Russian reverie, the first chapter of three creative voyages (the next one in June in Tokyo, and the last in July in Paris). CHANEL never has to go too far to find inspiration as delving into the past of its founder always provides a successful outcome. The new collection has many cheering with pleasure as the lion emblem makes a strong return, re-invented with unconventional gemstones such as he-liodor and imperial topaz. CHOPARD add-ed more enchanting, heavy carat weight, numbers to their growing Precious Chopard collection. Cascading rivières of diamonds

Making of the Transformable Necklace with positioning of the 9.03-carat cabochon-cut Padparadscha sapphire; Promenades Impériales, Les Mondes de Chaumet.

www.chaumet.com

Page 4: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

and emeralds, a fabulous sapphire-paved watch… less is more does not always apply. ALEXANDRE REZA as always previewed de-sirable and occasionally jaw dropping nov-elties (as much for the exceptional untreat-ed stones as for the designs) whilst DAVID MORRIS focused on one of their signa-ture styles with a retrospective of chande-lier and shoulder duster earrings all fit for a queen. SUZANNE SYZ was once again a joy to meet, with great novelties especially in the coloured gemstone area. At MARTIN KATZ, the A-listers’ go-to American design-er organised a more discreet event, where a display of some of his iconic and new cre-ations was organised. Elegance and chic prevailed. It was a entirely more exotic af-fair at Lydia Courteille with an immersion into South American ancient cultures and homage to the pink stone rhodochrosite or Rosa del Inca. Last but not least, in stark contrast with the previous show, DAUPHIN unveiled yet again ‘architectural with a twist’ new pieces with the Fluid Captured collec-tion. So fasten your seatbelt and delve into this fresh review.

Work on the oval-cut diamonds for the bezels on the Commanding Necklace from the L’ESPRIT DU LION High Jewelry collection, CHANEL Fine Jewelry, in the CHANEL workshop, 18 Place Vendôme, Paris.

www.chanel.com

Page 5: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either
Page 6: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

2018 is the 20th anniversary of Victoire de Castellane at Dior and by default the 20th an-niversary of Dior Joaillerie, which she launched and embodies. A milestone indeed. The house must have something big in store to cele-brate this anniversary, so it was a fitting time to close the Versailles journey, which has con-secutively instigated three ground-breaking collections: Dior à Versailles, Dior à Versailles, côté jardins, and now Dior à Versailles, pièces secrètes. The latter and final chapter closes a door, but opens many others since it focus-es on jewellery pieces with secret openings. The inspiration is evidently to be found in the many doorways, secret boudoirs and hidden

www.dior.com

Volupté Béryl Vert Ring (closed and opened) in 18K pink gold, set

with diamonds and green beryl, Dior à Versailles, Pièces Secrètes collection by Dior Joaillerie. POA.

Page 7: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.dior.com

Intimité Tanzanite Earrings in 18K pink gold, set with diamonds and tanzanites, Dior à Versailles, Pièces Secrètes collection by Dior Joaillerie. POA.

Vanité Rubellite Necklace in 18K white and pink gold, set with diamonds, rubellite and grey spinels, Dior à Versailles, Pièces Secrètes collection by Dior Joaillerie. POA.

corridors at Versailles castle and de Castellane has again excelled at integrating these fasci-nating, yet romantic concepts in the jewels. The top of rings and pendants slide open, a ti-ny knob opens a side drawer, each time to re-veal either a micro-paved ghost-like portrait or a hidden ornate cavity. Modern jewellery that transports you to a court filled with intrigues, plots and secret affairs.

Page 8: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.dior.com

Cachette Diamant Ring (closed and opened) in 18K yellow gold, set with diamonds, yellow diamonds, pink sapphires and lacquer, Dior à Versailles, Pièces Secrètes collection by Dior Joaillerie. POA.

Cachette Tiroir Opale Claire Ring in 18K yellow and pink gold, set with diamonds and light opal, Dior à Versailles, Pièces Secrètes collection by Dior Joaillerie. POA.

Vanité Émeraude Necklace in 18K yellow gold and white gold, set with diamonds, emerald and colour change garnets, Dior à Versailles, Pièces Secrètes collection by Dior Joaillerie. POA.

Page 9: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either
Page 10: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

While Dior Joaillerie has closed a chapter, Chaumet has just opened one of a trilogy named Les Mondes de Chaumet, a journey into three geographical and cultural locations (described as “distant lands and faraway hori-zons”) that resonate heavily with Chaumet’s own histo-ry. This first episode titled Promenades Impériales pays tribute to the “beauty of a Siberian winter”, and by ex-tension to Chaumet’s historical links with Russia. The ornate fan-shaped design of the traditional headdress kokoshnik is the starting point of a beautiful suite with a lace-like design of fil couteau-set white diamonds and either a Padparadscha or blue sapphire as a one-off co-lour touch. It is absolutely light and delicate, while the pièce de résistance, the neckpiece, is a transformable wonder. All-white-diamond earrings and a ring complete the eleven-piece mini collection, which augurs well for the following chapters in June and then July.

www.chaumet.com

Transformable Necklace in 18K white and pink gold, set with a pear-shaped “sunset colour” Padparadscha sapphire weighing 16.31 carats from Ceylon, a cabochon-cut Padparadscha sapphire weighing 9.03 carats from Ceylon, an oval-cut D VVS1 diamond weighing 1.13 carats, a brilliant-cut D VVS2 diamond weighing 0.45 carat, and marquise and brilliant-cut diamonds; Promenades Impériales, Les Mondes de Chaumet.. POA.

Page 11: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.chaumet.com

Ring in 18K white and pink gold, set with a cushion-cut “sunset colour” Padparadscha sapphire weighing 3.11 carats from Ceylon, and marquise and brilliant-cut diamonds; Promenades Impériales, Promenades Impériales, Les Mondes de Chaumet POA.

Bracelet in 18K white and pink gold, set with an oval-cut Padparadscha sapphire weighing 7.07 carats from Ceylon, marquise-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds; Promenades Impériales, Les Mondes de Chaumet POA.

Earrings in 18K white and pink gold, set with an oval-cut Padparadscha sapphire weighing 1.71 carats from Madagascar, an oval-cut Padparadscha sapphire weighing 1.52 carats from Ceylon, brilliant-cut E VVS2 diamonds weighing 0.57 carat each, and marquise and brilliant-cut diamonds; Promenades Impériales, Les Mondes de Chaumet. POA.

Page 12: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.chaumet.com

Brooch in 18K white gold, set with a cushion-cut sapphire weighing 2.45 carats from Ceylon, a brilliant-cut D VVS2 diamond weighing 0.70 carat, and marquise and brilliant-cut diamonds; Promenades Impériales, Les Mondes de Chaumet POA.

Earrings in 18K white gold, set with brilliant-cut E VVS2 diamonds weighing 1.03 carats, 1.02 carats and 0.74 carat, a brilliant-cut E VVS1 diamond weighing 0.73 carat, and marquise and brilliant-cut diamonds; Promenades Impériales, Les Mondes de Chaumet POA.

Ring in 18K white gold, set with an oval-cut E VVS1 diamond weighing 5.82 carats, and marquise and brilliant-cut diamonds; Promenades Impériales, Les Mondes de Chaumet. POA.

Ring in 18K white gold, set with an oval-cut sapphire weighing 5.08 carats from Ceylon, and marquise and brilliant-cut diamonds; Promenades Impériales, Les Mondes de Chaumet. POA.

Page 13: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either
Page 14: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

Following a first appearance in 2012 in the world of CHANEL High Jewellery, then in 2013 in Sous le Signe Du Lion a full collection celebrating Gabrielle Chanel’s zodiac sign and beloved city of Venice, now in 2018 we see again the king of the animal kingdom in all its splendour and pow-erful demeanour. L’Esprit du Lion offers 53 cre-ations, all inspired by the lion sculptures found in Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment at 31 Rue Cambon in Paris. Carved in gilt bronze or marble and perched on a table, or in sculpted wood seated on the ledge of a fireplace, the lion always has his paw resting on an orb, the world. In this new collection, a magnificent clock pays homage to these objets d’art, while the jewellery creations go beyond. Chains are paired with a lion silhou-ette or face to underline its power and empha-size its authority. The pieces are crafted in yellow or white gold, with diamonds, sapphires, yellow beryls (heliodor) and imperial topazes: a colour scheme that evokes a lion’s mane and coat.

www.chanel.com

Passionate Cuff in 18K yellow gold set with one orange topaz, 1 round cut diamond and brilliant cut diamonds; L’Esprit du Lion collection, CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA.

Page 15: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.chanel.com

Eternal Brooch in 18K white gold set with 423 diamonds for a total weight of 26.23 carats; L’Esprit du Lion collection, CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA.

Legendary Transformable Necklace in 18K white and yellow gold set with more than 1200 diamonds and 1 cushion-cut fancy intense yellow diamond of 30.19 carats; L’Esprit du Lion collection, CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA.

Timeless Earrings in 18K white gold set with 2 pear-cut diamonds for a total weight of 1.4 carats and 754 brilliant-cut diamonds; L’Esprit du Lion collection, CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA.

Page 16: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.chanel.com

Timeless Watch in 18K white gold set with a round-cut diamond and 710 brilliant-cut diamonds; L’Esprit du Lion collection, CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA.

Dazzling Necklace in 18K yellow gold set with 32 oval-cut yellow beryls for a total weight of 111.18 carats and 454 brilliant-cut diamonds; L’Esprit du Lion collection, CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA.

Legendary Ring in 18K white gold set with more than 230 diamonds and a pear-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond of 4.01 carats; L’Esprit du Lion collection, CHANEL Fine Jewelry. POA.

Page 17: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either
Page 18: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

Count on Caroline Scheufele and Chopard to come up with a high jewellery series that blurs the line with haute couture. So much of the sar-torial excellence and theatricality on display in the haute couture field is applied in Chopard’s Precious Chopard collection. Each season sees cascades of gemstones paired by two (usually one coloured gemstone is paired with white dia-monds), collar neckpieces that enhance the en-tire décolleté, cocktail rings that draw in all the gazes, and complementing earrings that set the bar high for the chandelier style. Although this time the colour scheme is back-to-basics (blue for sapphires, green for emeralds and red for ru-bies), the ensemble is a whirlwind of cut types, sizes and proportions…just like the intricate con-struction of a haute couture garment. Of all the gem-laden creations on show, one piece caught my eye: the watch – entirely paved with sap-phires and diamonds – is so well proportioned that it does not appear overwhelming.

www.chopard.com

Watch in 18K white gold fully set with 1,000 stones in total, pear-shaped (84.8cts) and brilliant-cut (8.6cts) sapphires and brilliant-cut (10cts) and pear-shaped (2cts) diamonds; automatic movement; Precious Chopard collection. POA.

Page 19: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.chopard.com

Ring in 18K white gold set with a pear-shaped emerald of 7 carats and pear-shaped, marquise-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds; Precious Chopard collection. POA.

Necklace in 18K white gold featuring one 18.7-carat pear-shaped central Zambian emerald and six other pear-shaped Zambian emeralds for a total of 30.9 carats and set with pear-shaped (73.5cts), marquise-cut (29.9cts) and brilliant-cut (12.5cts) diamonds; Precious Chopard collection. POA.

Earrings in 18K white gold featuring pear-shaped emeralds, and pear-shaped, heart-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds; Precious Chopard collection. POA.

Page 20: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.chopard.com

Necklace in 18K white gold set with heart shaped rubies from Mozambique (59cts) and pear-shaped (39.6cts), brilliant-cut (15.6cts) and marquise-cut (10.8cts) diamonds, with matching earrings also in 18K white gold set with heart shaped rubies from Mozambique, and pear-shaped, brilliant-cut and marquise-cut diamonds; Precious Chopard collection. POA.

Page 21: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

One of the very few private jewellers to com-bine exceptional gemstones (because none have undergone any treatment whatsoever to alter their colour and aspect) with trail-blazing design is Olivier Reza at the helm of ALEXANDRE REZA. This time again, a few stunning pieces were unveiled, be it the Birmanes Drop Earrings whose sizeable cen-tral pear-shaped untreated Burmese sap-phires are so rare that any serious collectors and investors should snatch them quickly; or the Mont Blanc Cuff that is a feat of crafts-manship (how on earth have they been able to sandblast the inside surface of the gold that composes a tubular hollow structure?) and simply a beautiful jewel (candy-like peb-ble-shaped red spinels are trapped between swathes of glossy white gold). These two pieces could not be more different in terms of style (the former is a classical composition, the latter an organic whirlwind), yet they un-mistakeably originate from the same mind.

www.alexandrereza.com

Birmanes Earrings in 18K white gold and platinum set with 2 D IF pear shaped diamonds, 2 pear shaped sapphires, 14 baguette-cut sapphires, 10 baguette-cut diamonds, 148 brillant-cut diamonds, 2 non heated Burmese pear shaped sapphires (respectively 18.49 carats and 20.34 carats). POA.

Page 22: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.alexandrereza.com

Zamarat Necklace in 18K white gold set with one Colombian emerald weighing 19.78 carats, an A-shaped diamond, 12 emerald beads, 24 cultured pearls and 155 brilliant-cut diamonds. POA.

Tour Diamant Ring in 18K white and pink gold set with one radiant-cut diamond, 14 trapeze-cut diamonds and 126 brilliant-cut diamonds. POA.

Corne d’Abondance earrings in 18K yellow gold set with 2 white cultured pearls weighing 23.95 carats, 44 emerald beads, 318 spessartite garnets and 108 round cultured pearls. POA.

Page 23: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.alexandrereza.com

Tour Diamant Rubis Ring in 18K white and pink gold set with one radiant-cut diamond, 14 calibrated rubies (rubis suiffés) and 118 brilliant-cut diamonds. POA.

Tour Saphir Rose Ring in 18K white and pink gold set with one non heated emerald-cut pink sapphire from Madagascar, 14 trapeze-cut diamonds and 92 brilliant-cut diamonds. POA.

Tour Diamant Jaune Ring in 18K white and pink gold set with one 3.30-carat fancy vivid yellow emerald-cut diamond, 1,30 carats of French buffed emeralds, and 2.71 carats of brilliant-cut diamonds. POA.

Page 24: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either
Page 25: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

Not one to launch ‘collections’ when it comes to haute joaillerie, but rather one-of-a-kind pieces, The London Jeweller decided to present a few renditions of their signature designs: chande-lier and shoulder duster earrings amongst oth-er marvels in the Paris boutique. The long ear-rings come in all shapes and colours at DAVID MORRIS, yet they all evoke One Thousand and One Nights. Cascades of rose-cut diamonds (an-other in-house signature), a crinoline of white diamonds, a dragon tail of Paraiba tourmalines, tassels punctuated by Zambian emerald drops…They all contain a touch of theatricality, a dash of hyped-up glamour and loads of femininity. This is not high jewellery for the faint-hearted. In ad-dition I have selected three other designs that are worth a mention: an electrifying opal ring, an irresistible ruby ring and a delicate sapphire princesse necklace.

www.davidmorris.com

Emerald Chandelier Earrings in 18K white gold set with Zambian emerald cabochons (51.99cts), and 17.46 carats of white diamonds (pear-shaped, brilliant-cut and mixed). POA.

Page 26: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.davidmorris.com

Dancing Earrings in 18K white gold set with 83.39 carats of white pear-shaped diamonds and 2.62 carats of white brilliant-cut diamonds. POA.

Rose Cut Diamond Chandelier Earrings in 18K white gold set with 14.37 carats of white diamond briolettes, 15.67 carats of white brilliant-cut diamonds, 2.08 carats of white cushion-cut diamonds, 11.82 carats of white rose-cut pear-shape diamonds, 6.39 carats of white rose-cut oval diamonds and 10.78 carats of white rose-cut round diamonds. POA.Ruby Ring in 18K white

gold set with one 4.01-carat cushion-cut Burmese ‘pigeon blood’ ruby and 6.23 carats of white oval-shaped diamonds. POA.

Page 27: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.davidmorris.comBlack Opal Cocktail Ring in 18K white gold set with one 13.19-carat black opal, 4.39 carats of white pear-shaped diamonds and 1.99 carats of white brilliant-cut diamonds. POA.

Paraiba Dragon Earrings in 18K white gold set with 23.47 carats of Paraiba tourmalines (including 8.61 carats of pear-shaped), 8.10 carats of white brilliant-cut diamonds, 0.52 carat of white pear-shaped diamonds and 0.50 carat of white mixed diamonds. POA.

Sapphire Cushion Necklace in 18K white gold set with 53.27 carats of cushion-cut (heated) blue sapphires, 12.87 carats of white pear-shaped diamonds and 16.38 carats of white brilliant-cut diamonds. POA.

Page 28: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either
Page 29: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

Attending Suzanne Syz’s jewellery presentation never fails to surprise even though the Paris event always takes place in the comfort of the same salon at the Ritz. It is thus a bit like catch-ing up with a friend at her place, with the antic-ipation of seeing what treats she has concoct-ed each time. This January the menu was strong on remarkable coloured stones, notably a ra-re 40.66-carat orange tourmaline from Africa mounted on a pink gold ring with peridot brio-lettes hanging around the basket (this ring is a gift from Syz to herself as she could not bear to part with the stone – orange is one of her favou-rite colours), and a ring with a rare 13.36-carat Paraiba tourmaline not in the conventional icy blue hue but a certified mouth-watering rasp-berry pink. Other entremets include the perfect solitaire ring (a 5.46-carat Type IIa DIF diamond is set in white enamel and ceramic), and an alu-minium ring with matching earrings all shaped as gift-wrapping bows. It is always ‘feast and fête’ at Suzanne Syz’s!

www.suzannesyz.ch

Breaking Rules Ring in 18K pink gold, silver and transparent enamel set with one 13.36-carat pink certified Paraiba tourmaline. POA.

Page 30: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.suzannesyz.ch

Artist’s own Ring in 18K pink gold, silver and enamel set with one 40.66-carat orange tourmaline and peridot drops. POA.

Pop series, NO Earrings in red aluminium and 18K white gold, set with 1.26 carats of white diamonds. POA.

Wrap It Up Ring in turquoise aluminium and 18K pink gold set with 0.38 carat of white diamonds. POA.

Page 31: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.suzannesyz.ch

Here Comes the Sun Watch in titanium and 18K white gold with a mini-rotor self-winding mechanism by Vaucher Manufacture; limited edition of 3. POA.

Born to be Daring Earrings in 18K white gold, silver and enamel, set with 4 diamond slices (total of 13.67cts), 4 diamond rondelles (1.55cts), 2 spinels (3.58cts) and 282 diamonds (1.53cts). POA.

Unconditionally Diamonds Ring in 18K white gold and enamel, set with one 5.46-carat DIF Type IIa oval-shaped diamond, 6 round briolette diamonds (2.91cts), 6 grain of rice shaped briolette diamonds (3.03cts). POA.

Page 32: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

Private jeweller Martin Katz’s love of vintage jew-ellery and rare gems was on full show in Paris. Displayed inside two glass cabinets side by side, a myriad of art deco inspired jewels shimmered. This treasure trove exuded old world elegance, yet the coloured gemstones and their settings brought a touch of futuristic flair to the pieces. Although the designs are sculptural and sharp, the saturated colours that punctuated the white diamond structures added life and sensuality. The way Katz plans the stone setting is not unlike mar-quetry, fitting special cuts in their exact spot to create a pattern. It is no wonder that these archi-tectural delicacies appeal to A-list celebrities, as they are able to bestow that extra special element. (Shown here are only pieces with emeralds and white diamonds; this should not hide the fact that Katz uses the entire colour spectrum in his collections – Paraiba tourmalines, black opals, labradorite, etc.)

www.martinkatz.com

Round Diamond Bracelet in 18K white gold set with 632 diamonds weighing 18.55cts. POA.

Drop Earrings in 18K white gold set with one 20.90-carat and one 18.81-carat pear shaped emerald drops; microset with 522 diamonds (4.29cts). POA.

Page 33: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.martinkatz.com

Ring in platinum set with one 6.88-carat round emerald cabochon, 16 baguette-cut diamonds (2.77cts) channel set around the cabochon; microset with 274 diamonds (1.55cts) and 76 emeralds (0.44ct). POA.

Pendant Necklace in 18K white gold set with one 4.01-carat E SI1 kite shaped diamond, 37 marquise-cut and pear-shaped rose-cut diamonds (17.95cts); microset with 44 diamond pavé (0.23ct). POA.

Eiffel Tower Drop Earrings in 18K white gold set with one 6.60-carat and one 6.52-carat halfmoon emerald cabochons, 2 halfmoon diamonds (0.54ct); microset with 551 diamonds (3.60cts) and 283 emeralds (3.76cts). POA.

Diamond Drop Earrings in 18K white gold set with one 2.23-carat E VS1 and one 1.92-carat D SI1 halfmoon shaped diamonds, trapezoid diamonds (respectively 0.90ct and 0.89ct) and two baguette-cut diamonds (1.56cts); microset with 446 round single cut diamonds (1.75cts). POA.

Page 34: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

When Feng J. first encountered a 14.30-carat Burmese no-heat star-ruby, she imme-diately knew what she would do with it. A keen amateur of all things floral, as seen in most of her designs, she does not simply adopt a literal approach, she goes be-yond, and with the help of her ebullient imagination she conjures mesmerising hy-brids. The enchanting star ruby ended up describing a love story at the heart of a transformable flower piece, which can be detached and worn as a pendant whilst the ring itself, pared down to its full pavé of white diamonds, becomes a modern piece that elegantly swirls around the finger. Other stunning creations include L’Orchidée necklace and brooch, whose slightly otherworldly detachable centre mixes titanium petals with carved icy jade; a testament to FENG. J’s philosophy, which supports that “creating jewellery is like painting with gemstones”.

www.feng-j.com

Amour Code Ring in 18K white gold set with one 14.30-carat Burmese no heat star ruby, 0.91 carat of marquise-cut white diamonds, 1.14 carats of white diamond beads, rubies, tsavorite and microset diamonds. POA.

Page 35: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.feng-j.com

L’Orchidée Necklace and Brooch in Pink in 18K white gold with detachable flower brooch/pendant in titanium with carved icy jade, one central 8-carat rubellite and paving of diamonds and fancy-coloured sapphires; chain set with diamonds and fancy-coloured sapphires. POA.

Brooch in 18K gold and natural mother of pearl set with one 5.25-carat pink sapphire, purple sapphires, aquamarines and rose-cut diamonds; Le Printemps collection. POA.

Alhambra Earrings in 18K white gold set with blue sapphires, pearl shell and white diamonds. POA.

Page 36: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either
Page 37: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

It is during a trip to Argentina that Lydia Courteille re-discovered rhodo-chrosite, the Argentinian national gemstones. Her new collection Rosa Del Inca (the literary name for the stone) delves into South America’s ancient civilisations (the Mapuches, the Incas), their folklore (acces-sories of the time such as headdresses and plastron neckpieces) and beliefs about the afterlife (mummification), with rhodochrosite the beating heart at the core of each piece. The very specific pink hues (from pale pink to almost red) have inspired a famous diaguita tale that tells the story of forbidden love between two lovers, who upon dying turned into a stone that evokes blood petals. The romanticism attached to rhodochrosite was born, and it took Courteille to tap into it with gusto and fashion a 22-piece strong collection, which ticks all the boxes of her fantastical creative style. Mixed with pink gold, mor-ganites, orange and pink sapphires, and spinels, the pink shades of the rhodochrosite have never been so uplifting, a bold decorum with-out the quirks of girlishness. Each of Lydia Courteille’s collections is clearly an invitation to explore and at times time travel.

www.lydiacourteille.com

Cuff (shown closed and opened) in 18K pink gold set with 140 rubies (0.97ct), 1156 fancy sapphires (53cts), 1 rhodocrosite (27.49grs), 1 morganite (2.03grs), and 48 spinels (2.86grs); Rosa Del Inca Collection. POA.

Page 38: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.lydiacourteille.comEarrings in 18K pink gold set with 14 rhodochrosites (13.70grs), 13 spinels (0.30gr), 17 pink sapphires (0.95ct), 66 orange sapphires (0.89ct), and 53 rubies (0.85ct); Rosa Del Inca Collection. POA.

Pendant in 18K pink gold set with two brown diamonds (0.13ct), 65 rubies (1.18cts), 422 sapphires (14.15cts), 2 onyx (0.02gr), and 4 rhodocrosites (4.11 grs); Rosa Del Inca Collection. POA.

Ring in 18K pink gold set with 33 rubies (7.35cts), 99 fancy sapphires (12.85cts), and one rhodocrosite (20.50 grs); Rosa Del Inca Collection. POA.

Page 39: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.lydiacourteille.com

Pendant and Brooch in 18K pink gold set with 9 rhodochrosites (4.55grs), 296 orange sapphires (4.24cts), 228 pink sapphires (3.30cts), 40 rubies (0.33cts), 75 brown diamonds (0.55ct), and 3 black diamonds (0.56ct); Rosa Del Inca Collection. POA.

Bangle in 18K pink gold set with 7 rhodochrosites (48.20grs), 28 black diamonds (5.04cts), 55 white diamonds (0.46ct), 8 rubies (0.15ct), 90 orange sapphires (4.55cts), and 46 pink sapphires (0.83ct); Rosa Del Inca Collection. POA.Flamingo Ring in 18K pink gold

set with one rhodochrosite (6grs), 2 sapphires (0.14ct), 3 rubies (0.08ct), 15 black diamonds (2.09cts), 16 white diamonds (0.12ct), 107 orange sapphires (2.18cts), and 86 pink sapphires (1.60cts); Rosa Del Inca Collection. POA.

Page 40: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

DAUPHIN pursues its creative evolution without too much fanfare consider-ing how strong the impact of each incremental change is. Safekeeping the House’s creative codes, while pushing experimentation a bit further, are at the heart of DAUPHIN’s successful formula. In the new Fluid – Captured cap-sule collection, the signature open rings and stackable bands have under-gone new finishes and colours. It is a marriage of two previous series: Fluid (loose mesh of diamond pavé) and Volume (grid-like frames); the merging of solid, monolithic shapes with the free movement of drapery. In order to merge the two, a clever system of pivot has been created. It allows the mesh to freely rotate around the pivot’s axis, instilling unpredictable movement to each piece. Rose gold has been paired with brown diamonds for ultimate tone on tone effect, and for the first time, red has been used, as in pigeon blood rubies, whose saturated hue injects drama into otherwise very sleek ensembles.

www.maisondauphin.comFluid Fluid Captured Double Ring respectively in 18K rose gold with rubies, 18K white gold with white diamonds and 18K rose gold with brown diamonds; Fluid Captured collection. POA.

Page 41: › uploads › ... · prelude to July’s bigger event. While I can-2018-03-02 · presentations, January appeared to be an opportunity for some houses to either close ... either

www.maisondauphin.com Fluid Fluid Captured Ring respectively in 18K white gold with white diamonds, 18K white gold with full setting white diamonds, 18K rose gold with brown diamonds, 18K rose gold with full setting brown diamonds and 18K rose gold with full setting rubies; Fluid Captured collection. POA.

Fluid Fluid Captured Ring respectively in 18K white gold with white diamonds, 18K white gold with full setting white diamonds, 18K rose gold with brown diamonds, and 18K rose gold with full setting brown diamonds; Fluid Captured collection. POA.

Fluid Fluid Captured Ring respectively in 18K white gold with white diamonds, 18K white gold with full setting white diamonds, 18K rose gold with brown diamonds, 18K rose gold with full setting brown diamonds and 18K rose gold with full setting rubies; Fluid Captured collection. POA.