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Tropical Birding Trip Report LADAKH (India) The Search for SNOW LEOPARD custom tour Jan-Feb 2018

www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected]

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A Tropical Birding custom tour

LADADH(India):TheSearchforSnowLeopard27thJanuary–7thFebruary2018

TourLeaders:SamWoods,IainCampbell,andPabloCervantesDaza

(ReportbySamWoods/TropicalBirdingTours,

allphotosbySamWoodsunlessindicatedotherwise)

SnowLeopardswereseenonthreeoccasions,totalingeightindividuals,agoodshowingthatexceededour

expectations.Andallofthiswasdonewithoutthehardshipofcampinginsub-zerotemperatures.(Photoabove,PabloCervantesDaza)



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INTRODUCTIONWiththeopeningofanewlodgeinLadakh,fortheexpresspurposesofserving‘SnowLeopardTourists’,wethrewtogetheracustomtripwithsomeregularTropicalBirdingparticipantsandguides,totestthewatersofthisnewdevelopment,whichremovedtheneedtocamptosearchforthisHimalayanbeast.Thetourwasan unreserved success; wewatched three different groups of Snow Leopards for hours on end (twoseparate groups of amother and two old cubs, and another pair thatwere thought to bemature younganimalsnowindependentoftheirmother);immersedourselvesinthecolorfulcultureofTibetanBuddhismatThikseyMonastery inLeh, andalsoadded the enigmatic Ibisbill innearbyChoglamsar too, aswell asspendingalongtimewithaWallcreeperclosetothenewlyminted‘SnowLeopardLodge’.Ofcourse,inthismountainoussectionof India, theHimalayanlandscapeswereasmuchhighpointsasanythingavianormammalian,andwestoodinaweoftheLadakhisceneryonadailybasis.

WatchingourfirstSnowLeopardsnearLeh,whichinvolvedamotherandtwolargecubsthatspentmuchofthedayrestinginthesun,beforeshadefelluponthem,andwethenwitnessedthemwalkupandovertheridgefollowinghoursofobservation.



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Inaddition to this,manyenjoyedapre-tourday touringoneof theDelhi’s, (and indeed India’s), premierbirding and bird photography sites, Sultanpur National Park, where a trio of Indian Coursers, and avagrantDemoiselleCraneframedamongaflockofhundredsofBar-headedGeesewerenotablehighlights.Thisdayaloneaddeda94furtherbirdspeciestothetrip.Othersspentthisdaytouringsomeoftheseeminglyendlesscultural/historicalsitesofDelhi,visitingsuchtouristhoneypotsastheancientRedFort,datingbackto1639,aswellasothermonolithsofIndianculture,likeQutbMinar(1192)andHumayun’sTomb(onlyasold1570).

AvagrantDemoiselleCrane,foundjusttheeveningbefore,attemptstohideamongathrongofBar-headedGeesenearSultanpur.

Thisgooseisthehighest-flyingbirdspecies,havingevenbeenrecordedmigratingoverthepeakofEverest!28thJanuary:Sultanpur(andOldDelhi)Pre-tourExtensionsWithsomerestlesspeoplearrivingwithadaysparetorecoverfromthelongjourneyeast;wemadealast-minute plan to visit Sultanpur National Park, a 45-minute drive from our luxurious Delhi hotel. Theobjective here was to see and photograph any birds we could at one of Delhi’s birding/photographyhotspots.SamwasalsodeadkeentoencounterIndianCourserthereinthehopeofphotographingtheminparticular.Weknewwell that January canbeanerratic timefor thisspecies though,as theycommutebetweenthereandtheBharatpurareainthisseason,althoughsuchlocalmovementsareyettobefullyunderstood.Havinghyped-upthebirdphotographypotentialofthedaytoMikeandSuewhotookpartinthisday,SamandIainwerealittledeflatedtoarriveatasiteshroudedinthick,near-impenetrablefog!However,the‘birdiness’oftheplacewasstillthereforalltosee,eveninsuchchallengingconditionstophotographthem.Evenduringthisperiodoflimitedvisibility,AshyandPlainPriniasflittedaroundthelakeedge,anIndianPeafowlwaftedpast,raucousRed-wattledLapwings(page31)regularlyannouncedtheirpresence, andducks covered the lake, including IndianSpot-billedDuck.A flockof thirtyor soGreaterFlamingoscircledthewetlandseveraltimes,asifunsureofitssafety.Wewaitedimpatientlyforphotoopportunitiestoarise.Then,finally,thedeadlockwasbrokenwhenthemistswiftlyliftedataround11am,andourpatiencewasrewardedwhenwewitnessedtheplentifulbirdsinfullTechnicolorforthefirsttime.OneofthefirstbirdstoputinaperformancewasaEurasianWryneck(nextpage)thatcame



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ontoadeadsnagateyelevel,whereitremainedwelcomingthefirstsunshineoftheday,andanapparentseconddawn.ThiswasswiftlyfollowedbyanIndianRobin(page7)thatstoodtoattentionwithsuchprecisionandvigor,thatitfeltlikesomethingtheRussianArmywouldhavebeenproudof!

Aftertakinglunch,(andafterwe’dbeendelightedtoseeahealthynumberofDeliansoutlearningtheirbirds,withofficialparkchecklistsinhand,andareadinesstoadmiretheirfirstlooksatmanyIndianbirdsthroughour‘scope),weremainedinSultanpur,thoughthistimeoutsidetheparkgates.Weturnedourattentiontotheflatsbehindthereserve.

Theylookratheruninspiringandlackingincolor,butanIndianRollerchangedallthatwhenitlaunchedoffafencepost,revealinglargeelectric-bluewingpatches.However,thatwasnotwhywewerehere.Afalsealarmwentup,whensomedistantbuffy-orangeshadedbirdsturnedouttobenotwhatwewereafter,butapairofEurasianHoopoesinstead,andnolessimpressivethanourmaintargetbird.Theblandlytintedlandscapebroughtwithitbirdsofasimilarcolor,likeDesertandIsabellineWheatears.Then,suddenly,ourveteranlocalbirdguide(Sanjay),announced‘courser!’Alleyesswepttheplains,andthere,aheadofusstoodthreestatelyIndianCoursers(nextpage),immaculatewhitesuperciliumsshiningbrightlyinthe



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newlyarrivedsun.Gradually,weedgedourvehiclecloser,andused itasaproficientbirdblind,whichallowedusnotonlywonderfullooks,butstandoutphotographsofthisimpeccableIndianshorebird.AsfarasSamwasconcerned,thedaywasallbutdone,andobjectivesachieved,butSanjayhadplentymoretoshowus.Nextupwewentaftersomethingfarlessinspiringthanthecourser,butarareandlocalspeciesforwhichtheareaisaknownhotspot.Wescouredoneembankmentforit,butcameawaywithoutthetargetspecies,butdidenjoyaBluethroat(nextpage)hoppingaroundinthedirtbesideus,completelyintheopen.Eventhoughthiswaswearing its ‘winterdress’, thebirdwasstillstriking,boastingcolorsofroyal-blue and burnt-red in its trademark throat. The next bundwe tried, we hit the jackpot for ourintendedspecies,SindSparrow.Therewasfarlessreactiontothisthanthepreviousspecies,unsurprisingasitappearslikeaHouseSparrowwearingslightlyoddclothing,butitwasarareandwantedbirdallthesame.ThisfantasticdayclosedwithusstaringataflockofhundredsofBar-headedGeese,withanimposteramongthem.Justthenightbefore,Sanjayhadnoticedatallerbirdamongthegooseflock,whichwhenitraiseditslengthyneckrevealeditselftobenoneotherthanaDemoiselleCrane(photopage3),aspeciesnotfrequentlyfoundinthesepartsinrecentyears.Abrilliantendtoanaction-packed,‘bonusday’forourtour,whichwasfocusedmuchfarthertothenorth…



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WhilemosttouredthebirdinghotspotofSultanpurfortheday,others,withlesstimeontheirhandseitherside of themain tour focusingon SnowLeopards, could not come toDelhiwithout seeing some of itsseeminglyendlesshistoricalstructures,liketheRedFortdatingbackto1639andtheMughalempire;QutbMinar, a 73m/240f-high spire said to be inspired fromQuranic, Afghani architecture and dating backfurther still, to 1192, and deservedly a World Heritage Site; and Humayun’s Tomb, another WorldHeritageSiteandtherestingplaceofMughalEmperorHumayun,datedto1570.Thisbarelyscratchedthesurfaceofthemultitudeofculturalandhistoricalsitethat‘Old’DelhihastoofferbutprovidedsomeverydifferentculturalexperiencestothosefoundinandaroundLehandUlleyonthemaintourinLadakh.



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29thJanuary:DelhitoLehWeroseearlytotakeashortflightfromIndia’scapitalnorthintotheyoungestmountainchainonEarth,theHimalayas.After spectacularviewsofpartof this rangemid-flight, theplane toucheddown inLeh,withinLadakh,mid-morning.Thisandthefollowingdaywerescheduledprimarilyforacclimatization,asLehsitsatalofty3300m/ft.SomewentrugshoppingforproductsfromKashmir,whileotherswentbookshoppingonlocalnaturalhistoryoftheregion.Intheafternoon,wevisitedseveralsitesalongtheIndusRiver to search forbirds.Ourprimary target,whichwentunseenon thisoccasion,wasahigh-altitudeshorebird,thebeautifulIbisbill,aspeciesthatisclassifiedwithinitsownfamily.However,wewerehappyenoughseeingourfirstWhite-wingedRedstarts,ahandsomebird,whichwastobecomeveryfamiliarinthefollowingdays.

ThosewithawindowseatduringtheDelhitoLehdomesticflight,weretreatedtoremarkablepanoramasliketheseoftheHimalayas;aharbingerofscenestocome(PabloCervantesDaza)



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30thJanuary:ThikseyMonasteryandHemisNationalParkAsourpremierdayofacclimatization,wehadarelaxed(butfull),dayplannedforsomeculturalactivitiesinLeh,perhapsintervenedbyabriefspellofIbisbillwatching.ThefirststopwasThikseyMonastery,justoutsidethesmalltownofChoglamsar.WhilethemajoritypopulationofIndiaisHindu,LadakhisBuddhistcountry.Weleftearlyinordertowatchthedailyprayerritualatthemonastery,whichisnestledwithintheHimalayas,anda365-degreeviewofthemwasobservedrightfromtheroofofthiscolorfuledifice.

AyoungmonksipsbutterteaduringmorningprayersatThikseyMonastery

Thisculturalvisitwasutterlycompellingviewing,andanundisputedhighlightofthetrip,evenamongthehardiestbirdersinourcompany.ThiswasfollowedbysomeabriefbirdingstopinShey,duetoatip-offaboutIbisbillsintheareafromrecentdays.TheIbisbillswereabsent,andwehadlittletoshowforourspellthere,saveforaNorthernGoshawkseenbyjustsome,andplentifulmoreWhite-wingedRedstartsthatseemed to burst from every scrubby patch lining the scenic river. Our next stop should have been an



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obligatoryvisittotheSnowLeopardConservancyheadquartersinLeh,howeverasingle,shortphonecallchangedthatimmediately.

Whilewesearched,unsuccessfully,forIbisbills,amumbledmessagefromourlocalguidehadinferredaSnowLeopardsightingthatquicklygotdismissedasacaseofChinesewhispers.However,aftera littlefurthertime,itbecamecleartheoriginalinterpretationofthemessagewasindeedcorrect,SnowLeopardhadbeensightednearLeh!Originalplansforthedaywereimmediatelyshredded,aswespedtothewaitingcars,andracedoffinthedirectionofthenearestmountains,onthefringesofHemisNationalPark.ThingsturnedridiculouswhenIain,inthebackofthelineofcarsspeedinginthedirectionofarumoredSnowLeopard,spottedanIbisbillsittingnonchalantlybesideChoglamsarBridge,asitewehadalreadycheckedtwicealready.However,withthepremierquarryofthetrip,(aptlyknownasthe‘GreyGhost’),seeminglywithinourgrasp,theonlynaturalthingtodowasignoretheIbisbillcompletelyandheadstraightfortheexactspotwhereanaturalistwascurrentlywatchingthreeSnowLeopards.



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Itwasprettyclearwhenwehadreachedthespot,asalineofcarswerealreadypresentaccompaniedby‘scopes, cameras, and awave of excitable behavior running through their group and ours too. A localnaturalistquicklymadesureweallhadtheanimals,astheyrestedonthedistantrocks,amotherandtwonear adult sized cubs enjoying themorning sunshine. The cats, and us, remained there for the entireafternoon,andwewereevenbroughtafullcookedmealandteatoenjoy,whiletheleopardsloungedontheoppositesideofthevalley.Comelateafternoon,thedaycooledrathersuddenlyandtheleopardswereontheirfeetandheadingtothenearestridge,theirlongfull-bodiedtailstrailingbehind them.Lehhadpromisedlittleintermsofwildlife,exceptperhapsanIbisbill,butgaveussomuchmore;SnowLeopardsbeforewehadevenreachedSnowLeopardlodgeandthecoreareaforoursearchonthetour.ThegroupwereecstaticattheendofadaythathadprovidedarichblendofBuddhistculture,dramaticHimalayanscenery,andoneofthemostbeautifulandhighly-desiredcats.Ladakhhadgivenupitspremierwildlifeattractionswiftlyanddecisively.



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NotonlyisthemonasteryatThikseycolorfulandtotallyfascinating,

butitalsositswithinadramaticHimalayanlandscape

31stJanuary:Choglamsar;LehtoUlleyWithamidmorningdepartureplannedintoUlley,deepintheheartofSnowLeopard,inalargeprotectedarea,wehadjustonemoreitchtoscratchinLeh,thosebothersomeandsofar,completelyuncooperativeIbisbills.Forthiswereturnedtositewehadalreadyscheduledtotryandfindthem,buthasfailedwhentogetherasagroup,butalsowhereIainhadseenoneasweblastedfullpeltinthedirectionofourfirstSnowLeopards,aworthytimetoforsakeanIbisbillforsomethingwaybetter.Onarrivingatthebridge,therewasnoevidenceofIbisbillsinthearea,butWhite-wingedRedstarts(photopage17)wereplentiful,buthardlyworthyofcompensationastheyhadbythispointbecomeubiquitous.Weworkedtheboulderybordersoftherivershopingtofindapale,boulder-likeshape,withadecurvedredbillattachedtoit,but



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findinglittle.Then,oncewereachedthefinalpointwecouldwalknofurther,twobouldersdidnotquitelookright,andwereindeedfoundtobeapairofsleepingIbisbills(below).Weapproachedthemquietly,andsteadily,havingscoutedthespotstoviewfromdaysearlier,andsoonwenearlyontopofthem,astheypreened,andforagedontheoppositesideoftheIndusRiverfromus;simplysuperb.ThiswastheperfectwaytoendourtimeinLeh,andsowereturnedtothemodernGrandDragonHotelforaheartybreakfastandhastydepartureforSnowLeopardLodge…

OneofapairofIbisbillsbravesthecold,earlymorningwatersoftheIndusRivernearthecityofLeh

LeavingLehintherearviewmirror,itdidnottakelongtoaddanotheranimal,aherdoftheendangeredLadakhUrial,anungulatethatwassaidtonumberjust700totalindividualsasrecentlyas2002.FurtherdowntheroadChukarsmadetheirfirstfullonappearance(andwereanever-presentfromthenforward),andJohnandSamstruckonaseveralgood-sizedflocksofMongolianFinchestotalingaround100birds.



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AftersettlingintothelodgeinUlley,andmeetingwithourwell-armed(intermsofopticalequipment),teamofspottersandtrackers,wespenttheafternoonscanningthesurroundinghillsidesforanimals,butonly found birdlife in the form our first ‘bone-breakers’, or Lammergeiers (Bearded Vulture), andGoldenEagles,twoconspicuousaerialpredatorsinthissectionofLadakh.

1st–5thFebruary:SNOWLEOPARDSEARCH-UlleyandsurroundsThesedaysformedthecoreofthetrip,whenwewerebasedatthetinyBuddhistvillageofUlley,atthenewly-constructedSnowLeopardLodge,fortheexpresspurposesoftrackingthatanimaldown.Ofcourse,pressureswereeasedsomewhatamongthegroup,aswehadalreadyseenthespecieswellbeforetime,due to an extremely fortunate and unforeseen turn of events,which displayedwell the importance ofconnectingwith the local network of guides, naturalists, trackers and spotters, when looking for thiselusiveanimal.However, thatdidnotmean anyonewaskeen tomoveon from the ‘GrayGhost’ at all.Naturally,ourfocusremainedthesame,toworkintimatelywiththenetworkoflocalguidesinUlley,toseeif we could find further leopards. While the head tracker, Norbo, and his well-honed team oftrackers/spottersarebasedinUlley,theirpresenceandusefulnessonsuchatourwasfurtherenhancedbythefacttheyhavefamilyandprofessionalconnectionstootherlocaltrackersinneighboringvalleys.Thus,givingusawiderareatocoverifneeded.



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Thegeneralpatternofeventswas,followinganoptionalearlymorningsessionofscanningtheimmediatehillsides,theschedulewastowaitforthe9amphoneinafterbreakfastatthelodge,bywhichtime,allofthevalleyscheckinwitheachothertoreportanysignificantanimalsightings.Afterthatrime,theusualritualofthesedayswastoreacttothenewsaccordingly.Our firstday on sitewas rather inauspicious, the early risers braving the considerable chill (around -13C/8.5F), were rewarded with a pair of Siberian Ibex calmly climbing the precipitous slopes. LatersearchesdeeperwithinthesamevalleyproducednothingmuchasidefromourfirstBrownDipper,andthe firstofmany sightingsof the ever-popularLammergeier (BeardedVulture) photo below (PabloCervantesDaza),andGoldenEagle,thecoreavianpredatorsattheseextremealtitudes.However,thedayendedwithpromise,agrouparrivedat the lodgeasweweretakingawelcome,andwell-deservedhotdinner,withnewsthattheyhadflushedaSnowLeopardonthewaytothelodge.Withthis,trackerswerescheduled to dispatch the next morning for the immediate area – Saspotse (confusingly also speltSaspocha),whilewewaitedatthelodgeanxiouslyfornews.



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Bythefollowingmorningthenewshadbecomeevermoreintriguing,asanothervehicle,travelingthroughtheverysamespotfivehourslaterhadflushedthesameanimal,andonceagainitretreatedfromthesamespotupthesameslope,asifmovingoffakill.Followingnofurthernews,weheadedtothatarea,wherewespenttheday.Onarrival,thetrackerswereconstantlyscanningtheareawhereacarcasswasthoughttobe,butwithnosignoftheleopards(foritwaslaterrevealedthatthreeanimalswereinvolvedinthenightsightingtheeveningbefore),ateamoflocalswasdispatcheddownhilltotheexactspot,followingalackofnewsightings.Thedeadanimal, ayoungLadakhUrial,was soon found, andwasstripped to thebone,explainingalackofleopardsthemselves.

Delicious,hotmealsweretakeninthefieldsothatwecouldremaininviewofSnowLeopardsites

Havingdeducedtheleopardsweregone,andthenfindingaherdofLadakhUrials(presumablythesourceoftheirearlierprey)closeby,thetrackersscouredtheslopesforpugmarks.Theyfoundsomethatinitiallysuggestedthattheanimals(presumedtobeamotherandtwolarge‘cubs’)hadcrossedtheroadandwereprobablylyinginwaitonthesameslopeasthenervousgroupofgrazingungulates.Extensivescansfoundnoleopardsandsowemovedtohigherground,andgranderviewoftheslopewheretheforaginganimalswerepresent.Themorningwanedwithnofurtherevidenceofleopards,butourmoodswereraisedbyafullhotmealandsetupforlunchcomingtousinthefield.



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FollowinglunchsurroundedbytoweringHimalayanslopesbathedinsunshineandnotsnow,(aswouldnormallybeexpectedinthisnormallyfrigidseason),theteamoftrackerswerestartingtofeelsomethingwaswrong,andsotheysetoff inoneof thecars torechecktheearlierseenpugmarks,andsee if theiroriginalinterpretationswerecorrect.Nosoonerhadtheygone,thanaradiocrackledtolifebesideus.Afterchaoticscenes,weallbundledintothenearestcarsandspedoffinthedirectionoftheradiosignal.Onarrival,ourhastewashumbledsomewhat,whenwefoundthatoneofthedrivershadspottedthreeSnowLeopards loungingnonchalantlyontheslopesaboveus,wheretheyremainedfortheentireafternoon,occasionally changing their positions and causing awave of excitement through the group,whichhadswelledwellbeyondus,asnewshadspreadtogroupsstayinginothernearbylocations,whowerealsoconnectedtothe‘LeopardNetwork’.Twoverylengthysightings,greatlyenhancedbythequalityofourSwarovskispotting‘scopeinthreedaysofthetripwasmorethanwecouldhavehopedfor,andthegroupwerecheerfulfollowingthishighsuccessrate.

ChukarswereabundantaroundUlley



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Birds on this part of the tourwere few and far between, aswintertime in the Himalayas at the loftyelevationofUlleyandsurrounds(around4000m/13,125ft)isnotthemostwelcomingenvironmentforbirdstoekeoutaliving.However,theimmediatesurroundsofthelodgewerehometoRobinandBrownAccentors,whichformedhyper-activefeedingflocksinthearea.Red-frontedSerin,andChukars(pagebefore)inparticularwerealsoaregularpresenceinthevicinityoftheSnowLeopardLodge.

Wealsowalkedfromthelodgetoaboulderfieldtocheckforpikas,arodentthatwashighonthehotlistfor some of the group. Both Large-eared and Royle’s are said to be in the area (although their exactdistributionsremainpoorlyknown),andoursecondattemptyieldedasingleconfidingLarge-earedPika,identifiedafterthequickformationofa‘PikaTaskForce’,whichwasneededtoreviewtheliteratureandaidintheidentificationoftheseconfusingmammals.TimewasalsospentinandaroundtheSpangoValley,where a small herd ofSiberian Ibex (above) grazed in several days, andwere thought tobe a likelyattractantforthelocalSnowLeopards.Whilebirdingthevalley,wemanagedtoflushupaSolitarySnipetwice,andaddthattothelimitedbirdlistavailableinthesepartsinthisseason.



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Thetrackersspentconsiderabletimeinthisarea,andthispaidoff,again,whenaSnow Leopardcausedarapidreorganizationofourplans,andwedriveashortdistancefromthelodgetocatchupwithtwoanimalsrestingonaridgeline.Theseweretwonewanimals,bringingourtotaltoeightdifferentindividualleopardswithinthethreesightings.Onceagain,theanimalsremainedintheareaforsometime,restingoutthe‘hottest’partofthedaysthatbegunatatemperaturebelowzeroCentigrade.Whilewatchingtheseanimalsinthemorning,abirdtooktotheairclosebyonbroadwings,withalazyflightreminiscentofahoopoe.Itbouncedinandlandedjustout of sight. Sam went to check out if his thoughts were valid, and quickly confirmed them when aWallcreeperwasfoundprobingroadsiderocks.Highlightthatday,cameintheafternoon,onceoneoftheleopardsbecamemoreactive,andwasseenmarking/urinatingonanearbybyboulder,andthengentlycalling to the other individual, thought to be a sibling, both of which were now old enough to beindependentoftheirmother(fouryearsormore).



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Ononeday,wetookadaytripouttoanothervillage,Hemis-Shukpachanforthechanceofmorebirdsandanimal.Thisvillage,likeUlleyandothersintheimmediatearea,isalsoincludedwithintheprogramsofthelocalIndianSnowLeopardConservancy,whohavepromotedthecauseofSnowLeopardtourismandSnowLeopardconservationintheregionofLadakh.Thus,italsoofferedfurtheropportunitiesofSnowLeopardtoo,andplentifulhomestaysscatteredaroundthevillageweretestamenttothat.OnecornerofthevillageheldaconsiderablenumberofbothRobinAccentor(20+birds,page22),andBrownAccentor(40orsobirds),whileamaleLadakhUrialimpressedontheslopesabove(nextpage).



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BrownAccentorswereoneofthemostabundantbirdsontheSnowLeopardtour

ScouringtherivervalleyinHemis-Shukpachan(nextpage)ledustofindasmallpartyofWhite-browedTit-Warblers,whichincludedamaleamongstthem.ThesamevillagealsoyieldedaWoollyHarefrozenintheopenforsometime,beforeitrocketedoffathighspeed.However,inspiteofallofthis,thesitemaybestberememberedforaculturaldiversionattheheartofthisBuddhistsettlement.Sittingconspicuouslyintheheartofthevillage,andinthemiddleofthevalleyinwhichthetownissituated,wasagiantBuddha,whichwemadeasidetripto,andaccordinglywithBuddhisttradition,walkedclockwisearoundthishugestatue.JohnandSamwentoutonenightinsearchofanimalsaroundUlley,whichevenintheHimalayanwinterseasonareactiveatnight;precious littlewasseen inanhour-longsearch,aside fromthesinglesightingofaRedFox,whichhadbeenstrangelyelusiveonthistrip.



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AgiantBuddhadominatestheskylineinthevillageofHemis-Shukpachan

6thFebruary:UlleytoLehAlltoosoon,ourtimewithintheincredibleHimalayanlandscapesofLadakhwasdrawingtoaclose,andweneededtocheckoutofSnowLeopardLodgeandheadbackeast toLeh forthenight.Withnonewanimalsightingscominginonourfinalmorning,weoptedtospendourtimeheadingbacktoLeh,makingmultiplestopsalongtheway.WecheckedtheUlleyRivermorethoroughlythaninrecentdays,andwererewardedwhenSue spottedaWhite-throatedDipper (photonextpage) feedingon its frozenbanks.Watchingthedipperbounceontheicicleladenfringeoftherushingwatersmadeusfeelevencolder,andwashardtowatch,whenitregularlyplungedintothefreezingwaters.



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Wealsointermittentlystoppedatboulderfields,hopingforthesecondandfinalpossiblepikaofthetrip,somethingthatSueandJohnwereparticularlykeenon.Onefieldlookedfantasticbutproducednothing,and thenwestopped at another, noting the chill caused by the higherwind strength and total lackofsunshineforthefirsttimeduringourtimeinLadakh,makingitthesinglecoldestperiodofthetour.Aswestoodthere,Johnquietlyannouncedhehadapika.KnowingthatRoyle’sPika(above)isgenerallyfoundatlowerelevationsthantheLarge-earedthatwehadalreadyseenmuchhigherup,weweremorethanalittleintrigued.Alltoosoon,Johngotusontoasmallballoffurhuddledonaboulder,whichseemedtobebracedagainstthecold.TheresataclearcutRoyle’sPika,providingagreatfinishtothetour,asidefromsomephotogenicRed-billedChoughs(nextpage)betweenthepikaandthecityofLeh,andseverallargeflocksofMongolianFinches.



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WespentafinalnightinLeh,beforereturningtoDelhiforafinalnightbeforedeparturesout,ortocontinueontoourIndiaPhotoTour,foranothericoniccat,theBengalTiger.

Ithadbeenanunqualifiedsuccessasatour,wewereonaquestfortheSnowLeopard,andtohavethreeverylongsightingswasmorethanenough,withthefinalsightingofasoftlycallinggrownyoungonecallingtoitssiblingwill livelonginthememory,aswillthespectacularpeaksthatsurroundedtheefficientlyrunSnowLeopardLodge,whichsupplieduswithregulardosesofMasalaChaiTea,andwonderfulIndian,ChineseandWesternfood,evenhereintheremotepartsofSnowLeopardCountry.Alongwiththeleopards,IbisbillandWallcreeperwereundoubtedhighlightsasweretwospeciesofpikaforSueandJohninparticular,whohaveabitofathingforthem!And….weneverneededtocamp,arelieftomanyinthegroup,whowouldnothavecomehadthisbeenanecessity.



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The‘SnowLeopardTeam’;fourpicturedhereareguides(i.e.highguide-to-clientratioonthiscustomtour!)

ANNOTATEDCHECKLISTS:BIRDSThetaxonomyofthebirdlistfollows:Clements,JamesF.,White,AnthonyW.,andFitzpatrick,JohnW.TheClementsChecklistofBirdsoftheWorld.Cornell,2007.IncludesupdatesuntilAugust2017.

H denotesaspeciesthatwasHEARD,butnotseen.GO denotesaspeciesthatwasseenbytheGUIDEONLY.

DUCKS,GEESEandWATERFOWL:ANATIDAEBar-headedGoose AnserindicusHundredswereseennearSultanpuronapre-tourday;amongthemwasavagrantDemoiselleCrane.GraylagGoose AnseranserSeveralsmallgroupswereseenduringourpre-tourdayatSultanpurNationalParkandsurrounds.



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NorthernShoveler SpatulaclypeataAnumberoftheseduckswereseenatSultanpurandinsurroundingareasonapre-tourday.Gadwall MarecastreperaAhandfuloftheseduckswereseenatSultanpurNationalPark.EurasianWigeon MarecaPenelopeHalfadozenwereseeninsideSultanpurNationalPark.Mallard AnasplatyrhynchosAfewwereseenatChoglamsar,nearLeh.IndianSpot-billedDuck AnaspoecilorhynchaTwowereseenduringourfoggystarttoourdayatSultanpur.NorthernPintail AnasacutaDozenswereseenonourpre-tourdayintheSultanpurarea.Green-wingedTeal AnascreccaPlentifulatSultanpurNationalPark;alsoseenontheSnowLeopardtouratShey.CommonPochard AythyaferinaAhandfulofthesebirdswereseenatSultanpur.FerruginousDuck AythyanyrocaTwobirdswereseeninthemistatSultanpurNationalPark.TuftedDuck Aythyafuligula7wereseenatSultanpurNationalPark.CommonMerganser MergusmerganserSeenseveraltimesnearLehonthemaintour,whilelookingforIbisbills.PHEASANTS,GROUSEandALLIES:PHASIANIDAEIndianPeafowl PavocristatusAsinglemalestrolledacrossthepathinfrontofusatSultanpurNationalPark.Chukar AlectorischukarVerycommoninsomeareasofthemountains,andoftenseenaroundSnowLeopardLodgeinUlley.GrayFrancolin Francolinuspondicerianus HSeveralwereheardatSultanpurFlats. HimalayanSnowcock TetraogallushimalayensisOnewasflushedbyaSnowLeopardnearthevillageofUlley,wheretheywerealsoheardcallingonseveralmornings.GREBES:PODICIPEDIDAELittleGrebe TachybaptusruficollisDozenswereseenatSultanpurNationalPark.FLAMINGOS:PHOENICOPTERIDAEGreaterFlamingo PhoenicopterusroseusAflockofsomethirtyorsobirdscircledthelakeatSultanpurintheearlymorningmist/fog/smog!STORKS:CICONIIDAEWoolly-neckedStork Ciconiaepiscopus2wereseenatNajafgarh,nearSultapur.Black-neckedStork EphippiorhynchusasiaticusThiselegantstorkwasfoundinSultanpur,whereapairwaswadingintheshallows.PaintedStork MycterialeucocephalaAround40birdswereseenatSultanpur,wheresomewerenestingduringourvisit.



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CORMORANTSANDSHAGS:PHALACROCORACIDAELittleCormorant MicrocarbonigerRegularlyseenduringourpre-tourdayinSultanpur.IndianCormorant PhalacrocoraxfuscicollisRegularlyseenduringourpre-tourdayinSultanpur.DARTERS:ANHINGIDAEOrientalDarter AnhingamelanogasterAfewwereseenatSultanpurNationalPark.HERONS,EGRETSANDBITTERNS:ARDEIDAEGrayHeron ArdeacinereaSmallnumberswereseenthroughthepre-touradd-oninSultanpur.PurpleHeron ArdeapurpureaAfewwereseeninSultanpur.GreatEgret ArdeaalbaAfewfeaturedonouradd-ondaytoSultanpur.LittleEgret EgrettagarzettaAhandfulwasseeninSultanpurNationalPark.CattleEgret BubulcusibisAnabundantbirdinthefieldsaroundSultanpurandDelhi.IndianPond-Heron ArdeolagrayiiAconspicuousbirdatSultanpur.Black-crownedNight-HeronNycticoraxnycticoraxAfewroostingbirdswerenotedintheSultanpurarea.IBISESANDSPOONBILLS:THRESKIORNITHIDAEGlossyIbis PlegadisfalcinellusJustoneputinanappearanceinthefoggystartatSultanpurbeforethemaintour.Black-headedIbis ThreskiornismelanocephalusDoublefigureswereseenonourextradaybirdingnearDelhi.Red-napedIbis PseudibispapillosaAfewwereseengrazingthefieldsaroundNajafgarh.EurasianSpoonbill PlatalealeucorodiaFourbirdswerepresentintheearlymorninggloomatSultanpurNationalPark.HAWKS,EAGLES&KITES:ACCIPITRIDAEBeardedVulture GypaetusbarbatusEncountereddailynearUlley.AlsoknownasLammergeier.HimalayanGriffon GypshimalayensisSeentwiceintheSpangoValley,belowUlley.BootedEagle HieraaetuspennatusOneglidedoverusoncethemisthadcleared,atSultanpurNationalPark.EurasianMarsh-Harrier CircusaeruginosusAcouplewereseenintheSultanpurarea,prethemaintour.EurasianSparrowhawk AccipiternisusOnewasseenenroutetoUlleyfromLeh.



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NorthernGoshawk AccipitergentilisSamandoneotherpersonsawonewithpreyonthebanksofarivernearShey(intheLeharea).BlackKite MilvusmigransRegularlyfeaturedaroundSultanpur.RAILS,GALLINULES&COOTS:RALLIDAEGray-headedSwamphen PorphyriopoliocephalusAhandfulofthesetamebirdswereseeninSultanpur.EurasianMoorhen GallinulachloropusDozenswereseeninSultanpurJheel.EurasianCoot FulicaatraHealthynumberswereseenaroundSultanpur.CRANES:GRUIRIDAEDemoiselleCrane AnthropoidesvirgoAnunexpectedbonusbirdonouronedayaroundSultanpur,wherealonewandererwasfoundtheeveningbeforehidingbadlyamongaflockofBar-headedGeeseatNajafgarh.SarusCrane AntigoneAntigoneJustafewwereseenintheSultanpurarea.CommonCrane GrusgrusAfewwereseennearDharampurnearSultanpur.THICK-KNEES:BURHINIDAEIndianThick-knee BurhinusindicusOnewasseenneartheSindSparrowsiteclosetoSultanpur.STILTS&AVOCETS:RECURVIROSTRIDAEBlack-wingedStilt HimantopushimantopusScatteredsightingsoccurredduringourSultanpurday.IBISBILL:IBIDORHYNHIDAEIbisbill IbidorhynchastruthersiiApairoftheseenigmaticHimalayanbirdswereseenrestingalongthebanksoftheIndusRiverinChoglamsar.PLOVERS&LAPWINGS:CHARADRIIDAERed-wattledLapwing VanellusindicusOneofIndia’scommonbirds,seenrepeatedlyonourDelhidaytrip.White-tailedLapwing VanellusleucurusAfewwereseeninsideSultanpurNationalPark.SANDPIPERS&ALLIES:SCOLOPACIDAESolitarySnipe GallinagosolitariaOnetookflightrightbesideuswhilesurveyingtheSpangoValley,nearUlley.CommonSandpiper ActitishypoleucosAfewwereseeninSultanpur.GreenSandpiper TringaochropusUptothreewereseenalongtheIndusRivernearLeh.WoodSandpiper TringaglareolaVocalandconspicuousatSultanpur.CommonGreenshank TringanebulariaOnewasseenonthebanksoftheIndusRivernearLeh.



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CommonRedshank TringatetanusUptothreewereseenatChoglamsar,nearLeh.PRATINCOLESANDCOURSERS:GLAREOLIDAEIndianCourser CursoriuscoromandelicusThreeofthesestrikingshorebirdswerewatchedforagingatSultanpurFlats,andwereamajortargetforthere.PIGEONS&DOVES:COLUMBIDAERockPigeon ColumbaliviaScatteredsightingsaroundurbanareasbothinthelowlandsandmountainsonthemaintour.HillPigeon ColumbarupestrisAlargeflockofthesepallidpigeonswasseeninHemis-Shukpachan.EurasianCollared-Dove StreptopeliadecaoctoAbundantaroundSultanpur.RedCollared-Dove StreptopeliatranquebaricaAhandfulofthesedoveswereseenonSultanpurFlats.LaughingDove StreptopeliasenegalensisCommonlyencounteredatSultanpur.CUCKOOS:CUCULIDAEGreaterCoucal CentropussinensisSeeninSultanpur.OWLS:STRIGIDAESpottedOwlet AthenebramaAcouplewereinsideSultanpurNationalPark,duringaDelhidaytrip.HOOPOES:UPUPIDAEEurasianHoopoe UpupaepopsThiswonderfulbirdwasseenaroundseventimesthroughthedayatSultanpur.KINGFISHERS:ALDEDINIDAEWhite-throatedKingfisher HalcyonsmyrnensisAcommonIndianspeciesinthelowlands,whereadozenorwasseenonourdayaroundSultanpur.ROLLERS:CORACIIDAEIndianRoller CoraciasbenghalensisSeveralwereseenforagingfrompostsoverlookingSultanpurFlats.WOODPECKERS:PICIDAEEurasianWryneck JynxtorquillaAveryshowybirdwasseenatSultanpurthatsatinasnaginfullsunlightforsometime.Yellow-crownedWoodpecker DendrocoposmahrattensisTwowereseeninthewoodedareassurroundingthelakeatSultanpur.FALCONSANDCARACARAS:FALCONIDAEPeregrineFalcon FalcoperegrinusOnewasseenglidingbelowUlley.OLDWORLDPARROTS:PSITTACULIDAEAlexandrineParakeet PsittaculaeupatriaOnewasseeninSultanpurNationalPark.Rose-ringedParakeet PsittaculakrameriCommonandconspicuousaroundDelhiandSultanpur.



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SHRIKES:LANIIDAEIsabellineShrike Laniusisabellinus OnewasfoundwhilewatchingtheDemoiselleCranenearSultanpur.Bay-backedShrike LaniusvittatusOnewasseenatSultanpurFlats.Long-tailedShrike LaniusschachAcouplewerenotedontheextradayoutofDelhitoSultanpur.DRONGOS:DICRURIDAEBlackDrongo DicrurusmacrocercusNumerousaroundSultanpur.CROWS,JAYS&MAGPIES:CORVIDAERufousTreepie Dendrocittavagabunda FoundinthewoodedareassurroundingSultanpurLake.EurasianMagpie PicapicaThemostconspicuousbirdseenupinthemountainsonthemainSnowLeopardtour.Red-billedChough PyrrhocoraxpyrrhocoraxSeverallargegroupswereseenupinLadakhonthemaintourfortheSnowLeopard.Yellow-billedChough PyrrhocoraxgraculusScatteredsightingwerehadinthemountainsofLadakh,wheresomeoftheflocksinvolveddozensofbirds.HouseCrow CorvussplendensCommonlyseenaroundDelhiandSultanpur.CarrionCrow CorvuscoroneRecordednearLehandalsobelowUlley. LARKS:ALAUDIDAEHornedLark EremophilaalpestrisJustrecordedononedayofthemaintour,aroundthevillageofHemis-Shukpachan.GreaterShort-toedLark CalandrellabrachydactylaAbout25wereseenatSultanpurFlats.CrestedLark GaleridacristataAfewwerefoundontheflatsatSultanpur.SWALLOWS:HIRUNDINIDAEGray-throatedMartin Ripariachinensis EncounteredregularlyinsideSultanpurNationalPark.BarnSwallow HirundorusticaAsmatteringofsightingscameduringourbirdingDelhidaytrip.Wire-tailedSwallow HirundosmithiiOnewasseenhawkingoverthelakeinSultanpur.TITS,CHICKADEES,ANDTITMICE:PARIDAECinereousTit ParuscinereusSeenregularlyaroundUlleyandthesurroundingvalleys.LONG-TAILEDTITS:AEGETHILIDAEWhite-browedTit-Warbler LeptopoecilesophiaeApartyofthreewasseeninthevillageofHemis-Shukpachan.



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WALLCREEPERS:TICHODROMIDAEWallcreeper TichodromamurariaWhilewatchingourthirdgroupofSnowLeopards,oneofthesecrackingbirdscamebouncingbyinflight,andwasthenwatchedforagingamongnearbyrocksintheSpangoValley.AnothercouplewereseenbySaminthelocalarea.WRENS:TROGLODYTIDAEEurasianWren TroglodytestroglodytesAfewwereseenalongriverbanksnearUlley.DIPPERS:CINCLIDAEWhite-throatedDipper CincluscinclusOneofthesebirdsgavecrackingviewsduringadouble-dipperdayonthejourneybetweenUlleyandLeh.BrownDipper CincluspallasiiSeenonseveraloccasionsintheUlleyarea.BULBULS:PYCNONOTIDAERed-ventedBulbul Pycnonotuscafer CommonlyencounteredaroundDelhi.LEAFWARBLERS:PHYLLOSCOPIDAEHume’sWarbler PhylloscopushumeiHeardandseeninSultanpur.CISTICOLAS&ALLIES:CISTICOLIDAEZittingCisticola Cisticolajuncidis HeardatSultanpur.CommonTailorbird OrthotomussutoriusSeenaroundSultanpurontheextratimetakentovisitthere.AshyPrinia PriniasocialisSeenatveryclosequartersatSultanpurNationalPark,duringourdaytripoutofDelhi.PlainPrinia PriniainornataHalfadozenbirdswereseenextremelycloseatSultanpur.SYLVIDWARBLERS:SYLVIIDAELesserWhitethroat SylviacurrucaSeveralbirdswereseeninthewoodssurroundingSultanpurlake.LAUGHINGTHRUSHESANDALLIES:LEOTHRICHIDAELargeGrayBabbler TurdoidesmalcolmiAdozenbirdswereseenduringourDelhitriptotheSultanpurarea.JungleBabbler TurdoidesstriataAnotherspeciessightedinajam-packeddayatSultanpurJheel.OLDWORLDFLYCATCHERS:MUSCICAPIDAEIndianRobin CopsychusfulicatusAnoutstandingsightingatSultanpur,ofabirdstandingtoattention.OrientalMagpie-Robin CopsychussaularisSeveralbirdswereseeninSultanpur.Red-breasted/TaigaFlycatcher Ficedulaalbicilla/parvaAcouplewereseeninthenationalparkatSultanpur.Bluethroat LusciniasvecicaAmarvelousmalewasseennearDharampur,nearSultanpur.



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White-wingedRedstart PhoenicuruserythrogastrusAcommonHimalayanbird,seenoneverydayoftheSnowLeopardtour.BlackRedstart PhoenicurusochrurosAcouplewereseeninsidethenationalparkatSultanpur.SiberianStonechat SaxicolamaurusHalfadozenorsowereseeninandaroundSultanpur.DesertWheatear OenanthedesertiOnewasfoundwhileonthehuntforcoursersatSultanpurFlats.IsabellineWheatear OenantheisabellinaOneofthesewheatearswasalsoseenatSultanpurFlats.STARLINGS:STURNIDAEEurasianStarling SturnusvulgarisOnewasseenatSultanpur.AsianPiedStarling GracupicacontraAfewwereseenatSultanpur.CommonMyna AcridotherestristisSeenaroundSultanpur.BankMyna AcridotheresginginianusAhandfulwasseennearSultanpur.ACCENTORS:PRUNELLIDAERobinAccentor PrunellarubeculoidesRegularlyencounteredaroundourUlleylodge,andalsoinHemis-Shukpachan.BrownAccentor PrunellaPrunellafulvescensAverycommonlyencounteredspeciesontheSnowLeopardtour,aroundUlley.WAGTAILSANDPIPITS:MOTACILLIDAEWesternYellowWagtail MotacillaflavaAfewwereseenaroundSultanpur.CitrineWagtail MotacillacitreolaSeveralwereseenatSultanpur.WhiteWagtail MotacillaalbaalboidesSomeofthesesubspecieswereseennearLehontheSnowLeopardtour.PaddyfieldPipit AnthusrufulusOnewasseenatSultanpurFlats.RosyPipit AnthusroseatusOnewasseennearSultanpuronourDelhidaytripbeforetheSnowLeopardtour.FINCHES,EUPHONIAS,ANDALLIES:FRINGILLIDAEMongolianFinch BucanetesmongolicusFlockstotalingmorethan100birdswereseenonboththeoutwardandinwardjourneysbetweenLehandUlley.Twite LinariaflavirostrisAfewsmallpartieswereseeninandaroundUlley.Fire-frontedSerin SerinuspusillusPleasantlyabundantinthemountainsaroundUlley,althoughonlyafewwereseenperched.



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OLDWORLDSPARROWS:PASSERIDAEHouseSparrow PasserdomesticusSomewereseenalongwithSindSparrowsaroundDharampur,nearSultanpur.SindSparrow PasserpyrrhonotusApairshowedwellatDharampur,nearSultanpur.Black-wingedSnowfinch Montifringillaadamsi GOAlargeflockofaround100birdswereseeninflightbySam.

ThesunsetsbehindthevillageofUlley,deepintheheartofSnowLeopardCountryinLadakh



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MAMMALSSnowLeopard FelisunciaLadakhhasrecentlybecomethegotodestinationforthisformerlymythicalbeast.Thedevelopmentofexcellent,connectednetworkoflocaltrackersandguides,withtheconsiderableaidoftheIndianSnowLeopardConservancy,hasledtosightingssoaringinrecentyears.And,shouldonlycontinuetoimproveonewouldthink,asmorepeoplecomeandmoreeyes,inthiscaseusuallymeansmoreleopards.Inspiteofallofthis,SnowLeopardsarestillrelativelyrareandsecretive,andsoonefeelsthatfortuneisalwaysaplayerinthisquest.Theyaresaidtobeeasiertofindandtrackafterrecentsnowfalls,whentheirungulateprey(mainlyLadakhUrialandSiberianIbexinthispartofLadakh),areforcedtoforageloweronthemountainsashighervegetationbecomescoveredinsnow.Thispushesthepreyandtheirpredatorclosertothevalleybottoms,wherethevillagesarelocated.Thefactthatwehadnosnowatall,raisedanalarmforus,butthetrackersexceededthemselvesbystillmanagingtogetusthreeseparatesightingsofeightdifferentanimalsintotal.Oneachoccasion,theanimalswerewatchedformanyhoursastheyrestedinthedaytime‘heat’(-13Celsius/Fahrenheitishotforthem!).Ofcourse,thesightingofthetrip!Royle’sPika OchotonaroyleiOnewasfoundbyJohn,inaneleventh-hourscanonthejourneybacktoLehfromUlley,ajoyfulmoment.Large-earedPika OchotonamacrotisWeallgotasinglepikaforagingintheearlymorningsunjustbelowUlley.WoollyHare LepusoiostolusTwosightings;onebytheIndusRiveratChoglamsar,andanothernearthevillageofHemis-Sukpachan.RedFox VulpesvulpesJohnandSamsawonehuntingatnightinUlley.Nilgai BoselaphustragocamelusAlsoknownasBlueBull;onewasseeninSultanpurNationalPark.SiberianIbex CaprasibiricaJustseenonafewdays,butaniceadultmalewasseenintheSpangoValleyatlength.LadakhUrial OvisvigneiAcoupleofniceherdswereseen,onesurprisinglyclosetoLehonthewaytoUlley.

a tropical birding custom tour ladadh (india): the search ... · tropical birding trip report...

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