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    NotYourRegularTriptoGuatemala

    attheendoftheday,whenyougetbacktoyourownlife,itsimpossibletocorrelatethesepeoplesliveswithyourownlife.Donteventry.-BillAbramson

    IcouldsaythatIhavebeeninterestedbymicro-financelongbeforeitwastrendy,becauseIhavealwaysbeenpassionateabouthelpingtheimpoverished.Icouldsaythat,anditwouldbeacompletelie.ThetruthisthatIfellintothetopicbyaccident.AfrienddecidedtoquithisperfectlynormalNYClife,movetoBuenosAires,andstartanon-profitdedicatedtohelpingsmallbusinessesandworkercooperativesinLatinAmerica.Whensomeonedoesthatkindofthing,youhavetotakenotice.Whentheyshowup

    forbrunchnexttime,months,yearslater,youhavetoaskhowitsgoing.ThatshowIlearnedwhataworkerscooperativeis,whycapitalisminLatinAmericaismorethanalittlebroken,andhowmyfriendsorganizationissoamazing.Intheuninterestingprocessofhelpingmyfriend,IaskedonetoomanyquestionsofTrickleUpboardmembers.Sowhentheywereorganizingtheirfirst-everfieldtripforboardmemberstoobservetheiroperationsinLatinAmerica,theyinvitedmealong.

    IknewIhadnothingofvaluetoaddtothetrip,butifyouaskmeifIwanttodrivearoundondirtroadsinthepoorestcornerofGuatemala,visitingweavers,bakers,andchickenfarmers,toseeifmicro-enterprisecanmakeadifferencetothepoorestofthepoor,Isayyes.Atleastonce.Itsremarkablyeasytotraveltodeveloping-world-stylepoverty.YouslidedownonsomeBoeings,walkthroughanalmostcompletelyempty,brandnewairportinGuatemalaCity,anddriveawayinimportantlookingSUVswithhastilylaminatedTrickleUpsignsonthedash.Theruralpoorliveinsomeinconvenientplaces,sowespentthenightinAntigua,

    theoldcolonialcapital,atasimplylovelyhotel,CasadeSantoDomingo,builtintheruinsofanancientmonastery.Topnotchamenities.Wi-Fiineveryroom,parrotsonstandsnearthepool,excellentespresso.Antiguaisalovelytouristdestination.Ionlyhad14hoursthere,andspentmostofitsleeping,eating,anddebatingwithblissfulignorancewhethermicro-enterprisecanhelpbringpeopleoutofpoverty.ThenextmorningwerushoutanddriveforafewhoursupthenewlypavedPan-Americanhighway,windingthroughlush,lowandsteephills.Thenasharpturnup

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    ontoadirtroad.Areallywindy,bumpy,back-shatteringdirtroad,switch-backingupandup,thekindofroadwhereyouaresorethenextdayfromthecarride.Pastsomecinder-blockbuildingswithubiquitousblueTIGOsigns,thelocaltelecom.Afterawhilethecinder-blockconstructionfadestoweatheredmudbricks.

    Theruralpoorwevisited,onaverage,tendtolive10milesawayfromapavedroad,atthehighestpointofwhatevergeographywewereat.Traveltimeonthedirtroadwasalwaysmorethananhour.Isolationisofcoursepartofthecharmthatkeepsthemsopoor,andmakesmicro-enterpise,oranyformoftrade,difficult.AfterhalfanhourmyabilitytohaveaconversationinSpanishwithJorge,ourdriver,fadesawayandisreplacedwithtwothoughts:whenwillwegetthere,and,IamreallyhappytobeinanSUV.Westopatarandomspotontheroad.Theruralpoorarenotnoteworthyordistinguishableinanyway.Youcanpulloveratanyrandomplaceandfindthem.InGuatemala,4outof10peopleliveinwhatiscalledextremepoverty.Itsprobablynotacoincidencethat4outof10peoplein

    Guatelmalaarealsoclassifiedasindigenous.WeweretravelingtoaparticularTrickleUpcommunity,oneof800inGuatemala,oneof1400inCentralAmerica,andoneof34,000intheworld,growingbyroughly11,000eachyear.TherearemorethanabillionpeoplewhocouldbenefitfromTrickleUpsupport,oranysupport.Ourrandomstopsontheroadwereanythingbutrandom:wewerestoppingatneedlesinhaystacks.Whenitcomestohelpingthepoor,thereisalwaysmoredemandthansupply

    DavidLarkin,TrickleUpboardmember.

    Thedozenofus,mostlygringos,disembark,andstartwalkingupamudtrailpastsmall,fragmentedcornfields.Wewalkbythebizarreobjectsandstructuresthataretypicalofruralareaswhosepurposeareindisernablebycityfolk,alllookingbrokenandunused.Isthatacisternforwateringchickens?Orapenforholdingharvestedcorn?Ihavenoidea.Itsasunnybrightday,butnotbuggyorhumid,asweareinthehighlands.AfterashortflatwalkwegettoXesiguan,asetofmudhouseswiththatchorcorrugatedtinroofs.Smokeisflowingoutofthegapbetweenthewallandtheroof.Thesceneiscomplex,thereisalottotakein.Thehousesdecoratedwithlaundry,calendars,dryingcorncobs,toothbrushes,andotherthingsthatIwouldeventuallytakefor

    normalexterioradornments.Therearealsomorethanadozenwomen,standingorsitting,mostsmiling,someoldwomenscowling,alldressedincleanandcolorfulindigenouscostumes.Ofcourse,theyarenotcostumes,tothemitsclothing.WelearnthatwiththeseKaqchikel,atleast,thepatternsontheclothingtellyouabouttheperson:stripesforamarriedwomen,birdsandflowerswithstripesforayoungwomanlookingforahusband,blackcollarsforwidows.Therearemorewidowsthanyouwouldexpect.

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    Whycantwehavethisaspartofourculture?Isittoopersonal?Aroundusorbitanotherdozenchildrenlessthan10,unsurewhethertoscowl,smile,orrunaway,sotheydoallofthat,overandoveragain.

    Bencheshavebeensetupforus,andpartiallycompletedweavingsaresetupallaround.Thewomensitagainstthehouse,againstthedirtwallsanddirtfloor,andwegetdowntobusiness.Wefirstallintroduceourselves,andweallclapaftereveryintroduction.Itsaslowwaytostart,buthelpsbreaktheice.Despitetheirnon-latinfaces,andnon-latinclothing,theirnamesarealllatin-biblical,asinMaria,Francesca.Familiarnames.Here,inXesiguan,throughalocalNGO,Trickleuphasprovidedseedgrantsto16womentohelpthembecomeweavers.WithTrickleupfinancialsupportandtraining,theycreateproducts,sellthem,andre-investtheprofits,providingfamilieswiththefirststepstowardsliftingthemselvesoutofpoverty.Ifyoureallywantto

    helppoorpeoplenotbepoor,helpingthemcreateasustainablebusinessstrikesmeasalotsmarterthanhandingoutbagsofrice.Orcomputers.Oreyeglasses.TrickleUppromotesmicro-enterprise,butthatsnotthesamethingasmicro-finance.TrickleUpgivesgrantsandtraining.Theydontcollectinterest.Theydontcollectanything.OnecouldarguethatintheplaceswhereTrickleUpoperates,itdestroysthemicro-financemarket.Whygetaloanwhenyoucangetagrant?TherealityisthatTrickleUpissosmall,andthenumbersofpoorsogreat,itsimplydoesntmatter.Besides,whereTrickleUpoperates,thepeoplearesopoor,havesolittle,that

    withoutextrasupport,extratraining,extrahelp,micro-financeisnotgoingtodosquat.Thesewomen,andtheothercommunitieswewouldvisit,arenotbusinesspeoplewhoneedhelpgettingontheirfeet:thesearepeoplewhoneverthoughtofthemselvesasbeinginbusinessatall.Aftertheclappingandintroductions,westartaskingthewomenquestions.Whatdoyoumake?Howmuch?Howandwheredoyousellit?Whatdoyouwiththemoney?Typically,thequestionshavetogofromEnglish,toSpanishtotheirindigenoustonallanguage,asmostofthesewomendontspeakmorethanrudimentarySpanish.Tomyearstheirnativetonguesoundedlovely,withpitchchangesandamesmerizingcadence,itsoundslikesinging,butmultipletranslations

    areapainfullyslowwayofperformingfinancialduediligence.BenjaminandPenny,twoTrickleUpboardmembers,arebothinfinanceandareaskthesamequestionsIwanttoask,andthey,likeme,arepracticallyjumpingoutoftheirskinsathowharditistogetatthestory.Thestorythatslowlyemergesistrulyamazing.ThewomeninXesiguanusedtheirgrantsindependentlytobuythread,ofdifferentqualities,andknitdifferentproducts,andtransportandsellthemallindividually,whichwefindunfathomable.ThatsthebenefitofTrickleUp:itletsthe

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    communitiesfindasolutionthatmakessensetothem,evenifitdoesntmakesensetous.Xesiguanhasformedasavingsgroup.Accesstoemergencycapitalisespeciallycriticaltotheverypoor,whereanysetbackcanbumpyoubacktoruin.Creating

    localfinancialsupportgroupsisanotherpartoftheTrickleUpprogram.LikeeverythingTrickleUpdoes,eachimplementationislefttothelocalcommunityandlocalNGOpartnertofigureout.AtXesiguan,eachmemberpaysaboutadollarintoafundeachmonth.Wheredotheykeepthemoney?Thenearestbankisseveralhoursaway,irrelevantanduntrustworthy.KnowingwhatIknownowaboutinstitutionsinGuatemala,andhowtheyrelatetoindigenouspeople,Iwouldnttrustalocalbankeither.Thenwheredotheykeepthemoney?Theydontexactlyhaveamattress,andwitheveryoneintheextendedfamilysleepinginthesamebed,thatsprobablynotagreatchoice.Asecretnookinthemudwall?Isitsafe?

    Theanswerwas,theydontactuallyhaveanymoney,atleastnotanycash.Theentirefundislentouttothemembers,whopay5%interesteachmonth.Thecashisquicklyconvertedintogoods,likethread,orweavingtools:usefulthingsthatarenotusefultosteal.Itsabankwithoutabank.Ihadsomanyquestions,andtherewasnowayourtwo-steptranslationsweregoingtokeepup.Howdotheykeeptrackofthis?Dotheyunderstandpercentages?Interest?Howdotheydofractions?Typically,thesepeoplehaveuptoasecondgradeeducation.Whathappensiftoomanyneedtoborrow?Ortoofew?Whatdidtheyneedtheloansfor?Whathappensifsomeonecantpaytheloanback?Forthe

    mostpart,thesequestionsremainedunanswered.Gettinganswerstoourintenselymyopicquestionswassurprisinglydifficult.Questionslikehowmuchtoyoumakeinprofit?orhowmuchtoyouspendonthreadandmaterialdidntseemtomakeanysense.Whatwedidlearn,though,wasthatbecomingfinancialcontributorstotheirhouseholdshasanenormousempoweringeffectonthesewomen,aneffectIwouldhavediscountedwithoutseeingitinperson.Theyspokeaboutthepositiveemotionaleffectsproducingandsellingweavingshadontheirchildren,theirhusbands,andtheirlargercommunity.Forthefirsttime,theysaid,theyfeltlike

    hardworkwaspayingoffinabetterlife,forthemselvesandtheirfamilies.Youseethisintheirsmilesandwarmeyesastheyheareachothertelltheirstories.Theydiscussedtheharddecisionstheyhadtoface.Shouldtheyre-investtheirearningsinthreadorahand-poweredsewingmachine,orbuyingtheirkidspaperandpencilsforschool?Thepridetheyhadatevenhavingthesechoiceswaspalpable.

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    Whenourbigdiscussionisover,thereisagreatdealofcarefullytranslatedthanksandcommendationsbothways.Thewomenofferushotcider,withbreadandcheese.Ormaybeitwasbutter.Itrytolookverythankful,anddomybesttocreatetheillusionofconsumingitallwithgusto,whileactuallyjusttastingit.Itwasextremelygeneroustoofferuslunch,sincetherearetimesoftheyearwhenthey

    haveahardtimefeedingthemselves,but,ahotwaterbeverageinruralGuatemala?Inmydelicategringostomache?Iwanderabouttheirhomes,notingthedetails.Theyliveincloselypackedmudbrick,thatchedroofedsingleroomrectangles,placedbetweenthepolygonalcornfieldsandthesteeplyslopedforest.Therearenostreets,noplan,justafewhutsseparatedbyameterortwoofpackeddirt.Morehomesarescattereduptheslope,pathssnakingthroughcornfields.Thereisanouthouse50feetupatrail,dofamiliessharethat?Itshardtoseeinsideadarkhut,withthemiddaysunissobright.Adoor,awindow,adirtfloor,asinglebed.Hardlyanyfurniture.Maybeachair,orasinglelowtable.Cornandbundlesofclothingarestackedontopofthewall,or

    hangfromtheceiling.Smokerisesoutofanopenwoodflameonthehearth,spillingoutagapbetweentheroofandthewall.Somehousesdidntlineupwiththewind,andtherethesmokestaysinthehouse,makingitevendarkeranddifficulttobreath.Dotheyreallywanttoaddlungdamagetotheirlistofdifficulties?Donttheyknowaboutchimneys?Ordoesitkeepthebugsaway?Butweare6000feetabovesealevel,theairispleasantlycoolanddry,andtherearenobugs.Mymindkeepsracingonsillytangentslikethis,becauseIdontwanttothinkabouttheimportantthings.Weallknowthatmorethanabillionpeoplelivejustabovesubsistence.Maybetwobillion,maybethree,dependingonhowyouwanttosliceit.Knowingandwalking,

    talking,breathingitaredifferent,though.Idontmindthedirtfloors,thecookingfires,thelackofindoorplumbing.Icouldimaginegettingusedtothat,iftheweatherwerenice.Imightevengetusedtothelackofelectriclighting,whichlimitsyourdaytothe12hoursthesunisintheCentralAmericansky.Itrytounderstandwhattheworldislike,ifIwereilliterate,andhadneverseenanythingotherthanthenearesttown,whoselanguageIcantunderstand.Thismentalisolationissimplyunfathomable.Lesstangibleconcernstiemystomachinknots.Toliveinfearbetweenharveststhatmykidsmightnotgetenoughfood.Ifsomeonegetssickorhurt,medicalcareis

    essentiallyunreachable.Willmychilddieofdiarrhea?.WhatcanIdotoavoid.Tonothaveanychoices,tobetrappedinthissamecommunity,samelife,withnohopeofbreakingout,nohopeofyourchildrenbreakingout,becausetheyaretrappedwithyou.ShouldIjustgiveupanddrinkmyselftodeathwhilemyfamilystarves?Irrationalchoicesstarttomakesensewhentheyaretheonlychoicesyouhave.

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    Aswewalkdownthepath,backtotheroad,ourbottledwaterinourSUVs,anddrivetothenextTrickleUpcommunity,Ihavetoadmit,theworldislookingmuchbrighterforthewomenatXesiguan.Withalittlebitofhelp,theyareabletomakeabetterlifeforthemselves.Infincancialterms,ignoringthehardworkbyeveryoneinvolved,itonlycost$100perfamily,plus$35forthelocalNGOpartner.Fora

    single$2000investment,16familiesareonabetterpath.Thats13menwhowonthavetoleavetheirfamiliestomigrateout-of-countryforwork,andthirtyormorekidswhohavebetteroddsatmakingitpastthesecondgrade.IfIcomebackinafewyears,thewomentoldmeImightfindtinroofsinsteadofthatch,maybecinderblockwallsinsteadofmud.Notabadreturnon$2000.Doesitmeanwecouldliftbillionsoutofpovertyfor$100perfamily?Thedebateinthelong,bumpycarride,andeverysubsequentone,focusedonthatsinglequestion.Isfosteringmicro-enterpriseasustainablewaytoliftthepooroutofpoverty?IsTrickleUpsprogramscalable?Isitapplicabletoeverycommunity?

    Doculturalorgeographicaldifferencesdeterminesuccessorfailure,orcanmicro-enterpriseworkeverywhere?Iseverypoorpersonanentrepreneurintherough,simplyinneedofalittlehelptobootstrapthemselves?Ifnot,isthereaprocessforfindingthepeopleforwhomfosteringmicro-enterpriseisworthwhile?IwasexpectingalotofcampaigningfromtheTrickleUpstaffontheselongcarrides(didImentionhowlongthecarrideswere?Whycanttheruralpoorliveclosertoanairportoradecenthotel?),ifnottheboardmembers.Therewasnoneofthat.Quitethecontrary,theconversationswereopenandhonest.TrickleUpstaff,boardmembershavethesamequestionsasIdo.Theyaresmart,motivatedpeople,andtheyareworkinghardontryingtofigurethisout.Theywilltellyoutheydonthave

    theanswers.Yet.Itmadeforsomelivelydebate,inbetweentheswitchbacks.OurnextstopwasAldeaQuisaya,upanequallybadroad,wherewewalkedupashortdirtpathpastsmallcornfieldstoanalmostidenticalcommunityofKaqchikelwomen.InQuisaya,TrickleUphasprovidedseedcapitalto14families,allofwhomarealsoinvolvedinweaving.WesatinononeoftheirfirstVillageSavingsandLoanAssociation(VSLA)meetings.Despitebeingalmostidenticalinmostrespects,sameTrickleUppartner,sameethnicgroup,samemicro-industry,samenumberoffamilies,thesavingsprograminQuisayawasverydifferentthantheoneinXesiguan.Womenintheir

    embroideredbirdshirts,somewithblackhemsandborders,gatheredaroundonbenches,whiletheVSLAofficersbroughtoutatriple-lockedbox.Theboxhadthreeseparatepadlockonthreedifferentsides,andeachofficerhadakeytooneofthelocks.Theyceremoniouslyopenedthebox,tookouttheirrecordsandhandedoutsavingsbookstoallthemembers.Onebyone,withagreatdealofceremonyandofficialcounting,everyonecontributed5Quetzal(about$0.80)intothesavingsfund.Thesavingsfundhastwoparts:onegetspaidouttoeachmemberona

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    schedule,kindoflikeabonus,andtheotherpartcomprisesthesavingsofthebank,whichgetlentout.Gettingthedetailsonhowthisschemeworked,andwhyitwassodifferentthanthefirstcommunitywasgoingslowly,soIstartedplayingwiththekids.InXesiguan,

    therewereonlylittlechildren,tooyoungforschool,andolderkids,pastthethirdgradeorso,workingathome.Neithergroupwantedtointeractwithstrangers.Nowitwaslaterintheafternoon,schoolwasout,andthefivetonineyearoldshoveredaround,dartingunderbushes,ordivingintodarkdoorways,squealingwithexcitement,ifyouturnedtolookatthem.Thekidsaredistracting.TheindigenousgroupswemettreatkidsdifferentlythanintheUS,oranywhereIhavebeen.Childrencancomeandgowithoutbeingshooedorshushed,untiltheydosomethingreallygrevious.Whereverwemet,iftherewerekidsaroundatall,theyranaround,shouted,wrestled,grabbedadultlegs,walkedrightuptosomeonegivingapresentationtoanentireroomandgotinher

    way,allthewhileattractinglessattentionfromtheadultsthanastraycatorchicken.ItssomethingIhadreadabout,historically,behaviorcommontomanyAmericanindigenousgroups,butitwasinterestingtoexperienceit.Oddlydisconcerting.Awkward,sometimes.Whatdoyoudowhenkidsaregrabbingatyourbackpackandnooneischastisingthem?Despitetheirfreedom,thekidswereincrediblyshyaroundus,especiallywhenwestartedpointingcameras.Iwouldliketobelievethattheyareworriedaboutusstealingtheirsouls,butthereareenoughcellphonecamerasaroundtomakethatasillysuperstition.Therealanswerismoredistressing:theyassociateforeigncameraswithbabysmuggling,whichusedtobe,andmaybestillis,arealproblem

    forthem.In2000,inanareawewouldlatertravelto,abusloadofJapanesetouristswasattacked,killingatourist.Ihadnotheardofthatincident,yet,andaftersevenyearsofparentinggirls,thereisnothingthatgetsmemoreexcitedtopointmycamerathancutelittlegirlswhoaresmilingandgigglingandrunningawayfrommycamera.FirstIluredthegirlsoutofthedark,smokykitchen(nochimneyshere,either)wheretheywerehidingusingarainbowpony.(Evenwhentherearenokidsaround,rainbowponiesareanimportantpartofmycameragear.Theycanbeusedtobuildmakeshifttripods,andcanaddasplashofcolortolandscapeshots.Sic.)

    Handingoutrainbowponiesgottheboyseagertostartgrabbingmybackpack,soIdistractedthemwithsomecrayons.Penny,theTrickleupboardmember,handedthemsomepaperoutofhernotebook,andprettysoonahalfdozenkidsweredrawingsomeprettyamazingpictures,andhappilysharingtherainbowpony.TheolderkidswerewillingtospeakSpanishwithus.Thekidswerealways25%olderthanIguessed,whichwasalsotruefortheadults.Nothavingenoughprotein

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    agesyou.Themothersneverseemtohaveenoughteeth:calciumdeficienciesfromhavinglotsofkidsstartingveryearlywithoutaproperdiet.Thesavingsandloanmeetingended,andthewomenhandoutwovenscrollscommemoratingourvisit.Thenavaccumcleanerblaresfromthenearestkitchen

    andwebreakforaparty.Turnsoutitsnotavacuumcleaner,butablender.Imagineamud-brick,dirtfloorkitchen,filledwithsmokefromafireinabrickbasin,potsandpansstackedonthefloor,withasinglestool,andonit,twowomenworkingwithablender.Theyhaveelectricity,theyjustcantaffordtouseitverymuch.Duetoanoddsubsidyprogram,wherethegovernmenthiredaSpanishcompanytobuildaruralelectricalgrid,ruralelectricityfortheruralpoorcoststhreetimeswhatitcostsintown.Thisisaspecialoccasion:forustheyhavemadeafruitdrinkfromblackberriesthe

    sizeofmynose.Ihavealargenose.Eachofusgetsabagofthreetamales.Hopingtheblackberrieswerenotwashedbeforehittingtheblender,andbettingthatnothingcanliveinafreshlysteamedtamale,Ieatanddrinkwithgusto,savingatamaleforJorge,ourdriver.Underalateafternoonsun,everyonefollowsusdownthepaththroughthecornfieldstoourcars.Wewavegoodbye,anddriveoff.GiveThemLuggage

    Itsafewhourdrivetoourhotelthatnight,ontheshoresofLakeAtlaitan.

    Panajacchelisawonderfulhippiebackpackertown,withcheepinternationalcuisineandlotsoftrinketsandpipesforsale.Viewsofthelakeandvolcanoesareamazing.AlltheNicaraguandrugtraffickershavevillasthere.Weenjoyedawhole9hours,mostofwhichIspentsleeping.Benjaminfoundtimetoswiminthelake.Thenwewerebackonthewinding,nauseatingroadtothehighlandsofnorthwestGuatemala,inHueHueTenango.Huetenango,notarichplacetobeginwith,wasespeciallyhardhitduringGuatemalasthirty-yearcivilwar,awarfoughtmostlyovertheintenselyunfairresourceallocationstemmingfromtheconquistadors.Youreallyhavetohandittotheconquistadors.Usingsheernastinessandbrutality,theywereabletoabletoset

    upalonglastingsystemwhereafewfamiliescontrolmostofthearablelandandmostofthewealthfortheentirecountry.Theyhadthehelpofanaccidentalgermwarfareprogram,andtheaccidentof20,000yearsorsoofgeneticisolationofthelocals,butitsstillaniftyfeat.Anyattemptsatreformresultindeaths,orcoups.Thesefamiliesareaboveanylaw,evenbeingabletoeludetheUnitedStates.ItsjustlikeanyotherCentralAmericancountry,justmoreso.

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    Afteraparticularlylongandunpleasantdrive,acrossratherbarren,pineandscreecoveredhillsideswearriveliterallyattheendoftheroad:thecommunityofAldeaChelam.Asetofcinderblockbuildingshavebeenbuiltaroundadirtcourtyardbysome

    distant,wellintentionedaidorganization,thesameonethatbuildtheroad.Itsunclearwhatthebuildingsareusedfor,ifanything,andseverallookthoroughlyunused.Outofdesperateneed,Iheadtowardsthenastiestlatrineintheworld,perchedontheedgeofthesoccerfieldoveramoundofgarbage,thatspillsdownthehillsideintothecloudforest.ThecourtyardfillswithMam.Astheycollectforphotographs,pleasantries,anddiscussionsabouttheirmicro-enterpriseaspirations,itsclearthesepeoplearereallyreallypoor,makingtheotherpeoplewehavemetlookwelloff.Westartwithabigmeetinginoneofthecinderblockbuildings,usonstage,

    townspeoplefillingtheseats,standingintheback,spillingoutthedoor.Ibreathethesmellsofconcentratedwoodsmokeanddust.TwopeoplefromthelocalpartnerNGOthatTrickleUPworkswitharefamiliartothesepeople,andleadtheshowwithallsmiles.Theyneverstopsmiling,eventhoughaudienceismostlyglassy-eyedandvacant,orevenfearful.OneNGOworker,anativeMamherself,issimplycaptivating,asshetranslatesSpanishintosing-songMamwithelaboratehand-wavingandanamazingsmile.Afterthebigmeeting,theTrickleUptroupebreaksintotwosmallergroupstovisitsomehomes.Theskyisdarkgray,withheavycloudsmaskingthemountaintops,onlyathousandfeetfartherup.Heavilyfarmedravinesandhillsidesstretchbelow

    us.Weareatthetopofwhereyoucanlive.Wewalkalongsteeptrailsintocornfieldsthatwereprobablyvirgincloudforest,beforetheMamwereforceduphereduringthewar,andnowareunabletoreturntowherevertheycamefrom.Whileeveryoneacknowledgesthecommunityisnotmorethan30yearsold,questionsastohowtheygothere,orwheretheycamefromarenotanswered.Asalways,itsunclearastowhywecantgetanswers.Dotheynotknow?Aretheanswerstooupsetting?Dotheynotunderstandthequestions?Ihavenoidea,butIamalreadyusedtomyseeminglysimplequestionsbeingunanswerable.

    AidagencieshaveprovidedChelamwiththeroad,abuilding,aschool,tinroofs,watercollectiontanks,andotherrandomsolutionstoproblemsaidagencieswanttosolve.Itsnotclearthatthesehaphazardsolutionsareprovidingrealbenefits.Whileeveryhousehasannewplasticcistern,courtesyofsomeJapaneseNGO,Ionlyfoundonehousewhereitwasactuallyconnectedtoaguttertocollectrainwater.Whathappenedtoalltheextrapiping?Diditnotarrive?Diditgetcannibalizedtokeepthesinglehomeworkingwithanaccessible,cleanwatersupply?Isitanyones

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    jobtokeeptrackofthesuccessofthewaterprogram?NotspeakingMam,Ididntgetanopportunitytoaskthesequestions.Wespentafewhoursquestioning,orratherinterrogating,twofamilies,bothweavers,andbothrecipientsofTrickleUpaid.Oneusedamechanicalloomto

    createrollsoffabricfornapkinholdersandtablerunners.Thesecondusedahandloomtocreatepants.BenjamenandPennytriedtoanalyzethesebusinessesintermsofinputs,outputs,costs,marketabilityofproducts.Tobefair,theyaskedallthequestionsIwouldhaveasked,butIalreadyknewhowitwouldgo.Whetheritwaslanguageorculturalbarriers,tryingtotelluswhattheythoughtwewantedtoknow,oroutrightdeceit,Idonotknow.Supposespacealienslandedinyourbackyardandsaid,wewanttolearnaboutyourlives.Please,helpusunderstand.Wheredidthegrommetsofyourshoescomefrom?DoyouworkyourTVsremotecontrolwithyourleftorrighthand?Howmuchdoesitcostyoutodriveyourkidstoschool?Howwouldyouanswer?Could

    youanswer?Whileitstruckusasoddandfrustratingthatthesestoriesweresounaccessible,eventhoughwehadthepeoplerighttherewithus,Ireservejudgementastowhethertherewasanyoutrightlying.Thesepeopleareilliterate,haveneverreadabookoranewspaper.TheyspeakalanguageIhadneverheardofbeforethatmorning.Theyhaveneverbeenfarfromtheirmountaintop.Ihavenoideahowtheirmindswork,howtheyseeusorourquestions.Neverunderestimatethepowerofasimplemisunderstanding.Regardlessofthereasons,ourresearchintoChelammicro-enterprisedidnotmakemuchsense.Unitsdidnotaddup.Inventorydidnotaccumulateaccordingtostatedratesofproductionandsales.Productssolddidnotequalprofitgained.

    Aftermaybe30minutesofquestioning,wedidfigureoutthatwhileonefamilycouldmake4pantsaweek,theyhadnotactuallymadeanypantsforsometime,becausetheywereunabletosellpants.Whynot?Tooexpensivetogettomarket,topaysomeoneforthe2hourtruckridedownthemountain?Ornoonewantstobuyyourhandmade,patchypants?OryoudonotspeakanySpanish,soyoudontknoweither?Ilistenedwithhalfanear,andspentmytimegivingoutrainbowponies,fightingbacktears,andshootingvideoandphotographsofsometimesfrightened,sometimesrambunctiouskids,whoprobablyhadnotseenaforeigner,areal-live

    Gringobefore,muchlessplayedwithone.Itwasgettingtobedarkasweleft,andnoneofuswereexcitedaboutdrivingdownthatroadatnight.ThesummaryforChelamwas:thosepeoplearejustF^@cked.AtTrickleUpsrequest,thelocalNGOhadbeentaskedwithfindingthepoorestgroups,andatthattheyhadsucceeded.YettheideathatTrickleUporanyorganizationcanusemicro-enterprisetoimprovethelivesofthepoorestofthepoorhadclearlycomeupagainstsomelimits.TheresidentsofChelamaresoisolated,

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    geographically,culturally,linguistically.Thereisnolocaleconomy.Sub-subsistancecornandyuccafarming.Whatgoodscantheycreatethattheycansellwithintheircommunityatthetopofamountain?Whatgoodscantheycreatethatareworthsellingdowninthevalley?Otherthancollectingmoreaide,whathopedotheyhaveatall?

    ToparaphraseanoldSamKinessenjoke,Chelamdidnotneedmoreaidofanykindtohelpthempreservetheircommunity.Whattheyneededwasluggage,andmaybesubsidizedhousing,sotheycouldmovetowheretherearejobsandschoolsandopportunity.Onthedrivedown,cloudsstretchingbetweenhillsidesbelowus,wedebatedthevalueofkeepingtheChelamwheretheyare.Workforcemobilityisamodernconcept.Athemeinhelpingindigenouspeoplesisthatthereisculturalvalueinkeepingcommunitiestogether,ontheirownland.Perhaps.Chelamonlyseemstobetherebyaccident.Besides,itstoocrowdedforanyonetosucceed.Mygreat-

    greatgrandparentshadenoughthesecondorthirdtimetheCossaksmesseduptheirwoodworkingshopintheOldCountryandhoppedaboattoEllisIsland.Thatwasnotaneasythingtodo.Noneoftheirdescendantshaveeverregrettedthatdecision.Wespentthenightinaveryoddcinderblockhotel.Benjamen,whoisavegetarianandwho,asfarasIcouldtell,hadbeenfastingforseveraldaysnow,managedtogetinaruntosomenearbyMayanruins,forwhichIwasquitejealous.Oh,thisisyourcousinsbakery

    -paraphrasedfromTroopersaspoofonStarWarsstormtroopers,wheretheprotagonistsaystoaJawa,oh,theseareyourcousinsdroids

    AtYerbabuena,anothercommunitywhereTrickleUpisjustgettingstarted,wesitonahillandtalk.Itssunnyandcool,highupinthehillsinanotherpartofHuehuetenango.Thereisnotowncenter.ThecommunityconsistsofthestandardGuatemalanmud-brick,thatchedhutsscatteredonthemountainside.Thecommunityjustgetspoorerandpoorer,andmoreandmoremenspendmoreandmoretimeworkingsomewhereelse,Guatemala,Mexico.Theconditionsareheartbreaking,thewagesunacceptable,buttherearenootherchoices.

    Wehearhowthereisnolivestockinthecommunity,theyaretoopoorforthat.Yet1/3ofthemhavecellphones,whichtheyclaimonlyusetoreceivecallsfromlovedonesworkingfaraway.Aswehavethisbigconversationonthehill,thephonesringfairlyoften,untilsomeonespreadsthewordtheyshouldbesilenced.Wewalkpasterodedfieldstovisitanopenairbakery,pastsheep,goats,andacow.

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    AtYerbaBuena,thingsareveryconfusing.Nothingisaswhatwehear.Therearesomeverynicelatrineslocatedineveryonesyard,eachpaintedwithabigwhitenumber.Apparently,thereisanNGOfocusedonprovidingruralcommunitieswithlatrines.TheyhavedoneaspectacularjobinYerbaBuena.

    Erosionisveryapparent,leavinglargefieldsofvolcanicscreeonwhichnothinggrows,brilliantredagainsttheverdantgreenofcornfieldsandpinetrees.Itsunclearwhetherthepeoplerealizethatcuttingdownthepinetreesandover-farmingisdestroyingthetopsoil,andonceitwashesdowntheravines,thelandisuseless.Eveniftheyrealizewhereallthescreeiscomingfrom,Idoubttheyhaveanychoicestomake.Allthehilltoplandisutilized.Thereisnolandtoliefallow.Youneedfirewoodtoeatcorn.Eachfamilyhasonaverage1/8thelandtheyneedtosurvive.Thecustomisthatlandisalwaysdividedandpassedontosons.Whichmeansthatthenextgeneration

    willhavelessland.Thetimetofixthiswasafewgenerationsago,whenafathercouldhavesaid,Sons,Idonothaveenoughland.Youallcannotbefarmers.Oneofyouwillgettheland,andyouothers,Iamsorry,youhavetomoveelsewhereandmakeyourfortunes.Aharddecisiontomake,ofcourse,buthaving1/8thelandyouneedtosucceedasafarmer,butstilltrying,isthatanybetter?SolutionsaresoeasywhenyoucandropinonyourSUV,lookaround,anddriveaway.Thebakeryisabrickhemispherebesideahousesurroundedbycornfields.

    Atthecommunitymeeting,weheardtherewasnobakery,andanenterprisinggroupofthreeyouthswerepoolingtheirgrantstocreateabakery,becausetheirfatherknewhowtobakebread.Sowewereconfusedwhenwewalkeduptoafullyfunctionalopenairbakery,tendedtobythemayorsdaughterandwife,aswellasbysomeonehiredtoactuallybakethebread.Aftermorequestioning,welearnthethreeyouthsaregoingtoexpandthebakery,hiringpeopletodotheactualbaking,andtheirjobwillbetosellthebreadintown.Theseguysarekindofslick,wearinggoldchains,andsomethingaboutthewaytheyactedshowedtheywereworldlybylocalstandards.Theyhadprobablymigratedforwork.Theyhadseenthingsbeyondthehilltops.

    Howmuchtheycansellthebreadfor,andhowmuchitwouldcosttotransportthebreadthemulti-hourtriptotown?Answerswerevague.Theyneverstoppedsmiling.AndwhyisthebakerylocatedattheMayorshouse,whenhehasnothingtodowiththebakery?Deceit,ormisunderstanding?Verydifficulttosay.

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    ItwasclearwasthatYerbaBuena,unlikeChelam,couldmakeeffectiveuseofmicro-enterprise,evenifitmeantpoolingtheirgrants.Thebreadtheywerebakingwassoldlocally,toschoolsandresidents.Couldtheybesuccessfulsellingbreadintown?Wasthewholethingascamtograbafewhundredbucks?WasthelocalNGOtryingtogameTrickleUP?OrdoesitjustlooklikethattoanuntrustingGringo

    whosesuspicionsareraisedwhenhecantgetanswerstowhatseemlikesimplequestions?Idontknow.Unsureifitmatters.TheLandofPeopleWhoWearPurpleShirts

    ForaboutanhouralongthedirtroadtoIxquilams,anotherethnicMamcommunityinthemountains,younoticekidsdoingtheirhomeworkonthesidesoftheroad,rushingtogetitdonebeforedark,andwomenweavingindoorways,alwayswithdarkpurpleandredyarn.Everyoneiswearingthemostamazingclothesinpurple,blue,andred.Severalcommunitieswevisitedsportedsomeinterestinggarb,butin

    Ixquilams,men,women,andchildrenweredressedunanimouslyspectacular.Whenwearriveatthecommunitymeetinghall,everyoneisinthemostamazingpurpleandredshirts.Thedesigninuniqueandbeautiful,withhigh,roundedcollardsandfoldedcuffs.Allthemenarewearingstraworpine-needlehats,andthesewonderfullyvibrantshirts.Wesitonstageandlistentothemspeak,poetically,withsmilesandbrightshiningfaces,astohowtheywillusesubsequentTrickleUpgrantstobecomepotatoandchickenfarmers.Thereisawonderfulsenseofcommunity,equality,democracy,asanyonewhowantsto,menorwomen,standsupandtalksabouttheirproblems.

    Noonewantstobeweaver,andsellwonderfullyuniqueandbeautifullymadeshirtstoGringos.Inthelandofpurpleshirtpeople,thelastthingtheythinkisvaluableisapurpleshirt.Conclusions

    Bynow,thistripisseveralmonthsold.Mymemoriesarenolessbewilderingorconfusing.

    IfIwereresearchingtheeffectivenessofmicro-enterpriseontheruralpoor,Icouldeasilyhavespentweeksormoreateachofthesiteswevisited.EventhenIwouldprobablyunderstandverylittle.Fosteringentrepreneurshipandmicro-enterprise,andtheTrickleUpprograminparticular,providinggrants,training,andexpertisetoindividualfamiliesiscarefully

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    selectedcommunities,canhavehugepositiveimpact.Inatleastsomecasesaverysmallgranthashadhugebenefitstoawholefamily,andalargercommunity.Itsalsoclearthatsomerecipientsarelackinginsomequalitiesorsupportstructures,withoutwhichitshardtoseehowTrickleUpsprogram,oranyprogram,

    cansucceed.MaybethequalitieshavelesstodowiththerecipientsthemselvesthanwiththerelationshipsbetweenTrickleUp,itslocalpartners,andthecommunities.Orperhapsitssimplyamatterofpatience.Inthelastthreecommunities,TrickleUpwasjustgettingstarted.TrickleUp,fromtheirwebsite,workstoprovidethepoorestofthepoortheirfirststepsoutofpovertythroughmicroenterprisedevelopment.Itsaworthygoal,anditswellstated,butitsnotentirelyaccurate.IquestionthatthepoorestofthepoormightnotbethemostsuccessfulrecipientsofTrickleUpaid.TrickleUpalreadyhasasetofcriteriatoexcludesomereally,reallypoorpeoplewhoareunlikelytosucceedintheTrickleUpprogram.Theydontworkinreallydangerousplaces.

    Theydontworkinrefugeecamps.IthinkTrickleUpwillfigureouttheycantworkinsomeotherplacestoo,basedonsomeasyetundefinedcriteria.IthinkTrickleUpwilldecidethatthe$100/persongrantstructuredoesnotworkforallgroupsthattheywanttoworkwith,andchangethattoo.TrickleUprealizesthis.Ithinktheywillfigureitout.