1

A study on the traditional formulations of henna and

Colorants and their application for dying hair and multifibers

Muzhda I.qadir and Darya j. Raheem

Department of chemistry, college of education, university of salahaddin-hweler, erbil

kurdistane region, iraq.

muzhdabarznje@gmail.com

Abstract

Henna is very popular and commonly used among the people round the world, the mideast and africa. In north

america and europe henna is primarily used as a hair dye, and especially popular among the people of the

balkans. Our aim in this study was to formulate a dye containing only plant products which is safe for use and

does not have the problems like staining skin during use and hypersensitive reactions. Four samples of henna are

selected 1.ali akber 2.sultan 3.amir kbeir 4.arabian emarat henna.the henna samples and herbs are obtain from

herb shop in erbil city. The plants herbs and colorants used in the study are: henna (lawsonia inermis), tea

leaves, beet roots, roselle, pomegranate pale and chrysoidine. The application of the henna formulations was

carried out on white goat hair and multi-fiber strips. All the dyes gave a wide range of colors change from

orange and dark orange in a1, a2and a3 to dark red in a4 on the hair samples, while in dying multi-fiber strips

the color was varied from dark yellow to dark orange in a1, a2 and a3 to red in a4 samples with good levelness,

brightness and depth on the fabrics. The change in the shades of the dye fabric was caused by the nature and

proportion of mixing herbs and colorant with henna samples.

Keyword: henna, hair dye, balkan, herbs, white goat, colors, multi-fiber strips

Chapter one

1.1 Introduction

A dye can generally be described as a colored substance that has an affinity to the substrate to

which it is being applied. The dye is generally applied in an aqueous solution, and may

require a mordant to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber (chukwu et al.2011). Until

the middle of the nineteenth century, all dyes available to man came from natural sources,

mainly vegetable extracts and a few from animal products (habbal et al, 2011).

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Henna is very popular and commonly used among the people round the world, the mideast

and africa. In north america and europe henna is primarily used as a hair dye, and especially

popular among the people of the Balkans (nadkarins,1955).

There is archaeological evidence from egypt that henna was regularly used to treat skin

ailments and to color gray hair five thousand years ago. There is evidence that brides marked

their hands and feet with henna for weddings in mesopotamia and the eastern mediterranean.

Henna will tolerate long droughts and high heat, but not moist soil or frost. Henna does not

grow in any area where there is frost. Henna does not grow in rainforest climates. Muslim

traders and settlers brought henna to western australia, and it has naturalized there. Henna has

never grown in the americas other than as an imported decorative plant, though there are a

few permanently warm and frost-free areas where it could be naturalized in mexico and

argentina (gallo et al ,2014).

Though henna has been used for the health and wellness of skin and hair for thousands of

years, medical research projects testing the therapeutic potential of henna are fairly recent,

with dozens of studies currently underway or recently completed. Some of these applications

of pure henna are suitable for self-care of the hair and scalp (rao et al ,2016).

Henna is antifungal, and has some proven antibacterial activities as well. Henna can

eliminate fungal dermatophytes (sherifa et al ,2015) living in the skin. These fungi can cause

superficial infections of the skin, hair and nails. Some examples are dandruff, ringworm,

(sastri ,1962) athletes’ foot, and fungal infections of the nails. Henna can also reduce some

inflammations and can eliminate head lice (musa et a l, 2012).

Henna leaves are used to cure jaundice, skin diseases, veneral diseases, smallpox,

spermatorrhoea. Henna leaves, flowers, seeds, stem bark, roots are used agent to treat

ailments as rheumatoid arthritis, headache, ulcers, diahorrea, leprosy, fever, eucorrhea,

diabetes, cardiac disease, hepatoprotective and coloring (reedy ,1988).

Henna is widely used in the cosmetic industry as dyeing agent. This dye molecule

consequently has been widely used in body art to dye skin, hair fingernails, and to dye silk,

leather, and wool. (chauhan and pillai ,2007).

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the dyeing of hair has been practiced since the time of earliest man. Hair dye is one of the

oldest known beauty preparations, and was used by ancient cultures in many parts of the

world, ancient egyptians, greeks, hebrews, persians, and chinese. Various plant materials like

henna, indigo, chamomile, shoe flower, madder, aloe etc are used to dye grey hair to get

natural black color. But instead of getting black color shades of red to copper color are

obtained. A need was felt to formulate a dye containing only plant products which is safe for

use and does not have the problems of staining skin during use and hypersensitive reactions.

The present study aims to formulate and evaluate polyherbal hair colorant which is safe to

use. Furthermore, the dyeing and mordanting characteristics of colouring matter of

polyherbal hair colorant and henna on multi-fiber textile (samantha ,2013).

1.2 What is henna?

Henna, lawsonia inermis, is a large bush or small tree native to hot, dry climates across north

and east africa, the arabian peninsula, the southern areas of the middle east, and south asia.

Henna probably originated in north africa and south west asia. It is grown as an ornamental

and dye plant. (gupta ,2003) in tunisia, it has been known since 1400 to 1500 bce. The

origin of henna plant is north africa based on the greater genetic diversity in henna in the

north african oases than in other regions.

Fig.1: lawsonia inermis plant

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lawsonia inermis is a much-branched glabrous shrub or small tree 2-6m in height, which may

be spiny. Lawsonia inermis is a monotypic genus which grows up to 4 to 5 feet high in hot

and dry climates. Henna does not grow in any area where there is frost. Henna does not grow

in rainforest climates. The leaves are small, sub-sessile, about 1.5 to 2 cm wide, and greenish

brown to dull green in color, and have either a glabrous, obtuse or acute apex with a tapering

base. Flowers are small about 1 cm across of redor rose color. Henna’s leaves have a red-

orange dye molecule, lawsone, visible in young leaves in the center vein of the leaf. The

petiole, the center vein of the leaf, has the highest lawsone content (valvov, 1949).

Henna branches grow quickly after rainy spells. The small branches are then pruned

back and the leaves stripped away and allowed to dry. On commercial henna plantations,

little trees are often pruned of their branches back to 3’ tall; the branches will regrow quickly

after the next rain. Henna may be pruned for leaf harvesting up to three times a year, and may

live for fifty years. There are many wild variants of henna. The flowers may be white (alba),

pink (rubra), red(miniata) or yellow, the leaves all contain lawsone. (al-tufai, 1999).

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1.3 What is the lawsonia

The henna dye is extracted from the leaves of lawsonia inermis as orange-yellow crystals.

The dye is chemically known as lawsone (greenway, 1941). The crushed leaves of henna

contain about 1% by weight of lawsone, which is responsible for orange red dye color.

(chauhan, 2007). The fully-grown leaves contain 0.3% to 4% lawsone content, depending on

climate, weather, and soil conditions. Commercially available pure henna sold for body art

typically has 1.7% to 2.4% lawsone after milling, packaging and export. The lower dye

content leaves, 0.3% to 1.1% lawsone, roughly powdered and sifted, are sold to the hair dye

industry (asressu, 2013).

The principle coloring substance of henna is a red-orange colored molecule lawsone (2-

hydroxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone), in lawsone, two oxygen atoms are attached to the naphthalene

carbons at positions 1 and 4 to form 1,4-naphoquinone and a hydroxyl (-oh) group is present

at position 2. Its molecule contains 10 carbons, 6 hydrogens and 3 oxygens giving a total

molecular weight of 174.16 atomic units of mass. Insoluble in water, and optical absorption

maximum of 452 nm. Having molecular formula, c10 h6o3 and melting point of 190 ˚c. A

burgundy organic compound that has an affinity for bonding with protein (Sonia, 2015).

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in general, “the dying principle” in henna states is lawsone, 2-hydroxy-1,4-

naphtoquinone,that is contained in dried leaves in concentration of 0.5-2%”. Henna will not

stain hair or skin unless the molecules of its characteristic dye, lawsone, are released from the

powdered henna leaf. This is obtained by the aforementioned preparation (gallo et al., 2008).

lawsone is not present as a free molecule in the leaves,but it is derived from its precursors,

the hennosides, during henna preparation. Hennosides are three isomers derived from the

tautomeric forms of the keto-enol inter conversion of the naphtoquinone structure. In this

case the second ring is thrice oxygenated, that can give rise to three possible hydroxyl groups

and consequently change to the diketonic form. Each of the hydroxyls can be glucosidated,

giving rise to the three isomers.

The aglycone, derived from their hydrolysis, is further converted by oxidation into lawsone

that is the dying active compound . The integrity and stability of the active constituents of the

herbal material is often preserved by glucosidation, since glucosides are solubilized and

transported better in the cell or accumulated inside vacuoles, compared to the active but

unstable aglycone. The aglycones need to be released by hydrolysis reaction to become

active. Popular medicine performs this reaction in the traditional herbal preparations, usually

using a hot aqueous infusion often acidified. This treatment favours the hydrolysis of the

precursors. (Hinckley, 2013)

Fig.2:Chemical Structure Of Lawsone (2-Hydroxy-1,4- Naphthaquinone)

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The precursor is converted into the intermediate aglycone by hydrolysis in mildly acidic

conditions. The aglycone intermediates will bind to keratin. Neither the precursor nor the

final lawsone will bind as effectively to keratin as the aglycone intermediate.8 in the mildly

acidic henna paste at room temperature, the aglycone will become available after about an 8

hour soak, and remain at maximum in the paste for 12 – 24 hour hours, after which the

percentage of the bindable aglycone form of the lawsone molecule will gradually diminish.

This is termed ‘demise’ of the henna paste.

At this point the henna paste produces diminishing stains. This transformation is gradual at

room temperature. It proceeds more quickly in warm conditions and slows under cold

conditions. Eventually all of the unstable aglycones will transform to the stable non-bindable

form of keratin. This usually happens in about one week at room temperature; in henna work,

this is referred to as demise. This demised henna paste stains keratin a weak orange color

which will not darken because it can no longer bind through michael addition.(rao and

sujatha, 2008)

The acidic paste maintains the hydrogen atoms on the corners of the aglycone, the

intermediate form of the lawsone molecule. In acidic mixes of henna, the intermediate form

of lawsone will migrate into the keratin in hair or skin, and darken as it binds permanently

with the keratin by a michael addition (zavada, 1993).

If the henna powder is mixed only with water, the hydrogen atoms are not as well

conserved. Henna mixed with water is more likely to fade from air because unbound lawsone

will gradually wash out of hair. Henna mixed with a mildly acidic mix will leave a stain in

hair that is not only permanent, but will gradually darken, and continue to darken for years.

variations of color with different lawsone content hennas and different acidic mixes, on

identical samples of light colored hair (miraj and kiani, 2016).

The lawsone in henna will dye hair some tone of red-orange, light coppery orange to dark

auburn, depending on the base hair color, keratin structure, and the paste mixture. Every

batch of henna has a slightly different level of lawsone because it is an agricultural crop. The

genomes of cultivated henna plants are still close to the wild variants; the henna plant has not

yet been modified, improved, and standardized. Weather and local soils affect the harvest.

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The harvesting, transport, storage, and milling processes have been improved over the last

thirty years, producing a finer sift with water, air, and lightproof packaging, so the product

stays fresh longer, but there is still a great deal of variation, even in one crop from one

company (rastogi, 2003).

1.4 How does henna dye hair?

Henna has lawsone, a tannin dye molecule, in its leaves. You can't see it because it is masked

by the chlorophyll. When you pulverize the leaves and mix them with a slightly acidic liquid

such as lemon juice, the dye molecule becomes available as the cell walls' cellulose

dissolves. The dye molecule can then migrate out of the paste, breach cuticle cell walls in

the hair shaft, and bind with the keratin.

Body art quality henna has higher dye content than hair quality henna, so more lawsone is

available to saturate the cuticle.

To release lawsone efficiently, while preserving the hydrogen atoms necessary to bind the

molecule to the keratin:

1. Mix henna powder with an acidic liquid, and leave it at room temperature

overnight.

2. Period of time- longer the henna paste is left on the skin. The deeper the lawsone

molecule will migrate into the layers of the skin, resulting a darker red color.

3. Adding heat- the more heat added to the body part where the henna paste is the

darker the stain will be because heat speeds up the chemical reaction.

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Fig.3: schematic diagram of hennaed dying hair

When your hair no longer produces melanins, only the keratin hair shaft remains. Since

keratin is the same stuff your fingernails are made of, your gray hair is the same color as your

fingernails. Your gray hair may be slightly yellowish or grayish, or pure white. These

variations are from the structure of the keratins scales, and whether they reflect more or less

light, and from minerals in the water you drink and bathe with.

Since your hair follicle isn't busy producing melanin, your gray hair grows much faster than

the rest of your hair! Your gray hair may also be a different texture from the rest of your

hair.

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Fig.4: schematic diagram of hennaed gray hair

Gray hennaed hair that has no melanin, the only color you see from henna is the lawsone red-

orange color. If the lawsone content is low, the color will be weak red-orange. If the

lawsone content is high, the color will be dark red-orange, oxidizing to deep auburn.

To get the greatest dye saturation possible add other dye plants to your mix. If you dye your

hair with a mixture of henna and other plant dyes, such as buxus, cassia, and indigo, you can

harmonize your colored and graying hair with henna, and cover even dye resistant white hair.

You may need to leave the pastes on your hair a longer time, wrapped for warmth, and use

dye plants with the highest dye content to saturate your gray hair with color. Henna has

lawsone, a red-orange dye, which will bind to keratin. Indigo has indigol, a dark blue dye,

which will bind to keratin.cassia has chrysophanic acid, a yellow dye, which will bind to

keratin. Buxus has a gray-blue dye, which will bind to keratin. If you mix these dye plant

powders, in different proportions, you can get the color you want.

Most of the dye plant molecules are larger than the lawsone molecule, so tend to bind into the

outermost layer of the hair shaft. If you find your hair is losing the darker rich color you

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want as shampoos go by, you're losing some of the larger molecules from the outermost

layer. You can dye your hair frequently with these plant dyes to deepen and refresh the color

(palpu et al, 2007).

Fig.5: schematic diagram of gray hair dyed with henna and other plant dyes

1.5 mechanism for the dying process:

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Step 5

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1.6 application of henna

1. Antifungal activity

Lawsone was found to be an anti-fungal toward alternaria, aspergillius, absidia, and

penicillium. The minimum dose effective again test organism is found to be 0.1%. It exhibits

fungicidal activity, wide fungi toxic spectrum and nonphytotoxicity.

2. Antibacterial activity

Antibacterial activities toward brucella, neisseria, salmonella, and streptococcus with a

concentrationof .005-.02% were observed. Additionally, lawsone extract from the leaves

showed mild anti-bacterial activity against s. Aureus and e. Coli.

3. Benefits in alopecia

In applications described in patent literature, henna extract was used with other hair growth

promoting agents delivered transdermally. Lawsone may promote hair growth by acting on 5-

alpha- reductase, an intracellular enzyme that converts the androgen testosterone into dht

(dihydrotestosterone). As dht is implicated in the development of androgenic alopecia,

lawsone offers benefits by preventing its formation.

4. Hair conditioning properties

Natural henna is an excellent conditioning agent. Lawsone is widely used in shampoos, hair

rinses,and conditioners.

5. Hair dye

Henna has been used to dye hair for centuries. Lawsone by itself is colorless. However when

exposed to sunlight or to air, it is converted to a new compound that has the characteristic red

color. When lawsone is blended with indigofera tinctoria, the hair dye can impart color in

various shades ranging from brown to black.the addition of herbs such as rhubarb, calendula,

chamomile, and others to lawsone produces various shades of red. It can be used to cover

gray hair without any adverse effects on hair structure. To obtain a long –lasting color, the ph

of the composition must be in the acidic range (5.5) facilitated by using a weak acid such as

adipic, citric or boric acid). Other applications of henna include its use in creating“temporary

tattoos” to decorate the skin.( miraj and kiani, 2016)

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1.7 Formulation

Formulation is the process in which the extracted colorant is mixed with other components.

The simplest formulation is to mix two or more colorants to get a different shade.

Formulating colorants serves a number of purposes:

1. This may be with the purpose of getting a completely different color as in mixing yellow

and blue gardenia,

Or to obtain just the right shade by mixing the orange paprika with the more yellow carotene

in different proportions.

2. Another reason for mixing colorants is to obtain the same color shade as an existing color

(e.g., to replace a synthetic or nature-identical colorant with natural colors or to obtain a more

stable or cheaper solution than existing colors), an example of which is blends of annatto and

turmeric to replace carotene in margarine.

3. Colorants may also be formulated to increase the range of applications. Apart from crocin,

the available yellow pigments are lipid-soluble carotenoids, which cannot be used directly in

Water -based systems like soft drinks. By emulsifying the carotenoid-containin a dispersion

Carotenoid in water can be obtained.

4. Formulation of colorants may also be done to enhance handling of them. Thus, many

highly viscous liquids or semi-solids, but by diluting them with vegetable oil a more easily

handled colorant of lower strength.

5. Increased stability is also an important reason for formulating colorants. Often, pigment

formulations are added antioxidants to inhibit color fading. The most often used antioxidants

are á-tocopherol and ascorbic acid.

6. The pigments may also be coated with hydrocolloids such as gelatin, gum arabic, pectin,

and others which, create a physical barrier around the pigment, protecting it from

degradation.

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1.8 Lecture review:

Habbal o1 co-worker studied the antibacterial activity of henna samples against p.aeruginasa

with henna samples obtained from al-sharqyia region.(habbal et al, 2011).

anissa boubaya co-worker, extract macro and trace elements from the leaves and stems of

henna samples. The samples were analyzed using spectrophotometry, and the nitrogen

content was measured by kjeldahl technique.(boubaya, 2011).

M.a. abulmoneim saadabi use phytochemical analyses to show the presence of

anthraquinones as major constituents of the plant leaves and are commonly known to possess

antimicrobial activity. (greenway, 1941).

(kannanmarikani ) studied the red dye obtained through alkaline extraction which has better

colour strength using hplc technique and the results confirmed that the lawsone compound

present in the dye.(kanniappan, 2015).

Chapter two: materials and methods

2.1 Materials

2.1.1 Collection of henna samples and herbs

Four samples of henna are selected 1.ali akber 2.sultan 3.amir kbeir 4. Kalij .the henna

samples and herbs are obtain from herb shop in erbil city. The plants herbs and colorants

used in the study are: henna (lawsonia inermis), tea leaves, beet roots, roselle, pomegranate

pale and chrysoidine.

2.1.2 Collection of hair

The white goat hair were collected instead of human hair. The hair were let to stand in

bleaching agent for 1 hour then wash with water for several times, dried and used for the

study.

2.1.3 Dyeing a multi-fiber strip

The dyeing procedure involve dyeing a multi-fiber strip (using multi-fiber strip is relatively

inexpensive and will reduce the number of experiments to set up to investigate dyeing

effectiveness) as shown in plate (1).

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The sdc multifiber test fabric is made up of six different fibers: each is a band of about 1.5

cm. Cellulose acetate (cellulose di-or triacetate); bleached cotton; nylon 6.6; polyester

(terylene); acrylic (courtelle); and wool (polyimide) as shown in plate(1).

2.2 Experimental

The procedure was include preparation of suitable combinations of henna, herbs and

colorants were taken and mixed in different proportions and rests of the powders were added

in it to make a smooth paste using water (table 1). The pastes were prepared in water and kept

for 4 hrs. Four groups for different formulations were prepared and the formulations were

applied to the grey hair and kept for 6 hrs. The hairs were washed with water. The hairs after

washing were pasted on white sheet. The colored hair and the multi-fiber strips were divided

into three parts:

part1: exposed to sunlight for 60 hr. For 7 days.

part2: washed with shampoo and warm water for 1hr.

part 3: exposed to the xenon light for 60hr. In 7 days.

Table 1: Formulations of suitable combination of henna and herbs or natural colorants

Samples mixture

(henna+ herbs or

natural colorants)

Proportion of mixing henna+ herbs or natural colorants

1:1

+ 5ml. Sat. Solution

of alum

2:1 1:2

Tea leaf 15 g + 15 g 20 g + 10 g 10 g + 20 g

Beet root 15 g +15 g 20 g +10 g 10 g + 20 g

Roselle 15 g + 15 g 20 g + 10 g 10 g + 20 g

Pomegranate pell 15 g + 15 g 20 g + 10 g 10 g + 20 g

Chrysoidine 15 g + 0.1 g 20 g + 0.1 g 10 g + 0.1 g

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2.3 Results and Discussion

The present study involves formulation, characterization and dyeing applications of four

samples of henna and the effect of formulation of henna with herbs or natural colorants on

the dying and fastness properties of hair and multi-fiber strips samples.

All the henna formulations were applied on goat hair and acetate, nylon, and wool fabrics but

they didn’t applied on cotton, polyester and acrylic fabrics and dyeing process was carried

out at (ph 5)which the best medium to release lawsone efficiently from henna leaves .

The dyeing results with henna formulations was shown in fig. 6.the variation in color hues of

the dyed hair and fabrics which results from the formulation of herbs and the colorant

compounds in the henna samples was studied. All the dyes gave a wide range of colors

change from orange and dark orange in a1, a2and a3 to dark red in a4 on the hair samples,

while in dying multi-fiber strips the color was varied from dark yellow to dark orange in a1,

a2 and a3 to red in a4 samples with good levelness, brightness and depth on the fabrics. The

change in the shades of the dye fabric was caused by the nature and proportion of mixing

herbs and colorant with henna samples.

2.4 Fastness properties

All the data of fastness properties of light, and wash are shown in figs. (7, 8, 9, 10). The

fastness properties of light were assessed in accordance with bs: 1006-1378, and the wash

fastness test in accordance with is: 765-1979 [13, 14]. The light fastness was tested using

xenon lamp and the results were compared to with outdoor exposure sun light change in color

of the dyed samples in the normal way visually.

The results of light fastness was good to excellent for hair , nylon and wool ,and acetate

.samples in case ii, and case iii became darker after exposer to natural sunlight, and the

results shown in figs.(7,8,9,10).wash fastness with normal shampoo and warm water was

moderate for nylon, wool, and acetate but in the case of hair strips the results was excellent.

In the formulations 1:1 were the proportion is equal and the formulation contain 5ml of

saturated alum solution, and in 2:1 the proportion of henna is more than that of herbs.in

formulations1:2 the proportion of herbs is more than that of henna. It has been observed that

formulations 1:1 and 2:1 showed darker color as compared to 1:2 formulations (fig. 6).

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Conclusion

The formulation was found to produce excellent coloration on application. The formulations

should contain the greater proportion of henna in order to show excellent dying properties

and the effect of herbs or natural colorants to produce more lasting or richer shades.

Therefore, need was felt to formulate a dye containing only plant products which is safe for

use and does not have the problems like staining skin during use and hypersensitive reactions.

As the results were found to be encouraging, the researchers who would like to work further

for developing the suitable formulation for further studies.

Fig.6: dyeing hair and multi-fiber strip with henna formulations a1.

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Fig.7: dyeing hair and multi-fiber strip with henna formulations a2.

Fig.8: dyeing hair and multi-fiber strip with henna formulations a3.

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Fig.9: dyeing hair and multi-fiber strip with henna formulations a4.

Fig.10: fastness properties of a1 sample ( xenon lamp, sun light, and washing)

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Fig.11: fastness properties of a2 sample ( xenon lamp, sun light, and washing)

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Fig.12: fastness properties of a3 sample ( xenon lamp, sun light, and washing)

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Fig.13: fastness properties of a4 sample ( xenon lamp, sun light, and washing)

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