by

A P R E S E N T A T I O N

F R A G R A N C E C O M P A N Y

Specially prepared for ICPC 2016 Symposium, Izmir, Turkey

by Miss Maria Gika & Mr Nikos Santiris

PART

A INCORPORATING FRAGRANCE SUCCESSFULLY INTO COSMETIC PRODUCTS

OUTLINE

1 INTRODUCTION • FRAGRANCE BASICS • FRAGRANCE CHEMISTRY • FRAGRANCE IN PERSONAL CARE

2 FORMULATING WITH FRAGRANCE • MAIN CONCERNS • QUESTIONS TO BE ANSWERED • TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUES AND SOLUTIONS • STABILITY TEST

3 DISCUSSION

PART

B AN OVERVIEW OF MARKET TRENDS IN FRAGRANCES

T H I S S M E L L S G R E A T !

INCORPORATING FRAGRANCE SUCCESSFULLY INTO COSMETIC PRODUCTS

FRAGRANCE BASICS

INTRODUCTION 1

T H I S S M E L L S G R E A T

FRAGRANCE CHEMISTRY

FRAGRANCE IN PERSONAL CARE

• Fragrance

- Mixture of individual chemicals

- Over a hundred compounds

- Volatile ingredients

- Low Molecular Weight

- Three main categories

INTRODUCTION 1 FRAGRANCE BASICS

• 1 - Natural - Essential Oils

- Absolutes

- Concretes

- Resins

INTRODUCTION 1 FRAGRANCE BASICS

Cold expression

Solvent extraction Steam distillation

• 2 - Nature Identical - Vanillin 1874

- Coumarin 1868

• 3 - Organic synthesis - Galaxolide

Vanilla Tonka Beans

Galaxolide Musk Deer

• Wide range of perfumery notes & categories

INTRODUCTION 1 FRAGRANCE BASICS

Edible - Gourmand Fruity Aquatic - Marine

Herbal Oriental Citrus

hours

10-30 minutes

5 minutes

• 3 major note characteristics

INTRODUCTION 1 FRAGRANCE BASICS

Top notes (Ex. Citrus, Herbs)

Middle notes (Ex. Flowers, Spices)

Bottom notes (Ex. Vanilla, Woods)

• Wide range of functional groups

INTRODUCTION 1 FRAGRANCE CHEMISTRY

ALCOHOLS ESTERS

PHENOLS ETHERS

ALDEHYDES NITROGEN COMPOUNDS

KETONES SULFUR COMPOUNDS

• Single perfume ingredients modifications

INTRODUCTION 1 FRAGRANCE CHEMISTRY

• Fragrance – Fragrance Interactions

Bitter Almond

• Reaction rate depends on many factors:

INTRODUCTION 1 FRAGRANCE CHEMISTRY

- Reactivities of chemical species

- Concentration of reactive species

- Temperature

- Light

- pH

- Catalysts

- …

• Affects consumer’s perception of product performance

• Adds emotional benefits

• Makes the difference between a product and its competitors

• Key driver for purchasing decision

INTRODUCTION 1 FRAGRANCE IN PERSONAL CARE

INCORPORATING FRAGRANCE SUCCESSFULLY INTO COSMETIC PRODUCTS

MAIN CONCERNS

FORMULATING W I T H F R A G R A N C E 2

T H I S S M E L L S G R E A T

QUESTIONS TO BE ANSWERED

TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUES AND SOLUTIONS

STABILITY TEST

FORMULAT ING W I T H F R A G R A N C E

2 MAIN CONCERNS

• Difficult task • Chemically reactive additive

• May lead to undesirable changes

Final Product

Stable

Performant

Cost Effective

Safe

Good looking

FORMULAT ING W I T H F R A G R A N C E

2 MAIN CONCERNS

• Fragrance often selected by type of odor

• How to enhance probability of SUCCESS?

• Select fragrance according to system & stability requirements

• Understand both base and fragrance chemistry!

• Have a detailed brief of the product when NPD starts

• Take all parameters into account

• What is the end product? (Shampoo, Emulsion…)

• What is the intended use? (Part of the body, Use…)

• What will it look like? (Clear, Pearlized, Suspended Beads…)

• What are the components? (Lipophilic, Hydrophilic…)

• How will it be processed? (Time, Heat, Agitation, Procedure…)

• What will be the packaging? (Glass, Plastic, Clear, Opaque…)

• Will it be coloured? (Natural or Synthetic Dyes, Pigments…)

• What is the intended percentage of use of the fragrance? (Regulations, IFRA…)

• Are there stability requirements? (pH, Temperature, Color…)

• What will be the shelf life? (6 months, 2 years…)

FORMULAT ING W I T H F R A G R A N C E

2 QUESTIONS

TO BE ANSWERED

FORMULAT ING W I T H F R A G R A N C E

2 TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE

SOLUBILITY

• Fragrance = Aroma Chemicals + Solvent

• Ingredients range in polarity • Solvent influence overall polarity

• Polar solvents - Shampoo (DPG) • Non polar solvents - Body Oil (DEP) • In Aqueous & Alcoholic systems

SOLUTION 01

TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE SOLUBILITY Pre solubilize

with additives (Glyerin, Glycols,

Alcohol…)

Pre solubilize with non ionic

surfactant (Ratio, Diversity…)

Fragrance Modification

Minimize Fragrance %

Benefit & Solution

F O R M U L A T I N G W I T H

F R A G R A N C E

2

Surfactant: compound that lowers the surface tension

between two liquids

Surfactant structure

Hydrophilic – Lipophilic Balance

HLB: Hydrophilic-Lipophilic balance of a surfactant

(Ex: Polysorbate 20, PEG 40 Hydrogenated castor oil)

FORMULAT ING W I T H F R A G R A N C E

2 TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE

CLARITY

• Linked to solubility • Haziness – Opaqueness

• In aqueous / alcoholic media • even with polar solvents

• In silicone / mineral oil media • even with non polar solvents • Sensitivity

Pre solubilize

With Additives (Glycerin, Glycols, Alcohol…)

In aqueous & alcoholic system

TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE CLARITY

Pre solubilize with non ionic surfactant

(Ratio, diversity)

Add opacifier, pearlizing agent (ex. styrene acrylates

copolymer, glycol distearate)

F O R M U L A T I N G W I T H

F R A G R A N C E

2

SOLUTION 02

Pre solubilize With additives (Esters, Emollients)

In silicone & mineral oil system

Reduce silicon

ingredients

Add emulsifier (non transparent

products)

Change the packaging

In both systems

TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE CLARITY

Minimize Fragrance %

Fragrance modification

F O R M U L A T I N G W I T H

F R A G R A N C E

2

SOLUTION 02

FORMULAT ING W I T H F R A G R A N C E

2 TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE

COLOR

• Dye instability (Chlorophyllin) • Oxidation of aroma chemicals (Vanillin, Orange Oil)

• Fragrance-Fragrance & Fragrance-Base interactions (Base Schiff) • Fragrance-Dye interaction (Benzaldehyde) Dye = Chromophore + Conjugated system Chromophore: Absorbs light • Base-Package interaction (Ess. Oils, Emollients, Aroma chemicals…) Affecting color, strength, flexibility… By chemical Attack - Oxidation - Absorption

TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE COLOR Add

antioxidants (Tocopherol, Vit E,

BHT…)

Add chelating agents (EDTA, Sodium Phytate,

Sodium Gluconate…)

Add UV absorbers in

both product & packaging

(Benzophenone…)

Avoid heat & light exposure

Add Color

F O R M U L A T I N G W I T H

F R A G R A N C E

2

SOLUTION 03

FORMULAT ING W I T H F R A G R A N C E

2 TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE

VISCOSITY

• More pronounced as fragrance level rises

• Gain of viscosity - Surfactant system - Emulsion system (stability)

• Loss of viscosity

- Surfactant system - Emulsion system (breaking)

• Influenced by typical parameters, Surfactant type/ratio, emulsifier type, Oil phase, additives…

TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE VISCOSITY

• Fragrance addition = Migration of individual components in the structure

• Non polar

• Polar

• Two polar groups

• Polar group & non polar chain

F O R M U L A T I N G W I T H

F R A G R A N C E

2

Micelle

Micelle: aggregate of surfactant molecules

dispersed in a liquid

TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE VISCOSITY

Thick System

Solvents (Glycols…)

F O R M U L A T I N G W I T H

F R A G R A N C E

2

SOLUTION 04

In surfactant & Emulsion media

TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE VISCOSITY

Thin System

Sodium Chloride (0.2 – 2%)

Secondary Surfactant

(Amphoteric type CAPB)

Thickeners (Gums, Acrylic

polymers…

F O R M U L A T I N G W I T H

F R A G R A N C E

2

SOLUTION 04

In surfactant media

Decreases charge density & Increases

micelle size

Rearrangement and Impact on Clarity,

Solubility & Precipitation

Expensive Blend Foam booster

Lowers Irritation Increases micelle size

Inexpensive Blend Minimum surfactant

activity

TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE VISCOSITY

Thin System

F O R M U L A T I N G W I T H

F R A G R A N C E

2

SOLUTION 04

In emulsion media

Oily phase (Waxes, Butters,

Thickeners…)

Cetyl Alcohol

Aqueous phase (Gums, Acrylic polymers…)

Cocoa Butter

TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE VISCOSITY

Minimize Fragrance %

F O R M U L A T I N G W I T H

F R A G R A N C E

2

SOLUTION 04

In both systems

Check Compatibility

(solvents, preservatives, solubilizer, emulsifier…)

Fragrance Modification

FORMULAT ING W I T H F R A G R A N C E

2 TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE

pH

• Fragrance addition = Possible chemical reactions

• pH Alteration

- Change in fragrance performance

- Product Spoilage (Outside preservative pH range)

- Disruption of products functionality (ex. Shampoo)

Healthy Hair Damaged Hair

TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE pH

Check product specification & requirements

Maintain stable and/or

neutral pH

Buffering Agents (Disodium

Phosphate…)

Fragrance Modification (Ethers, Acetals)

F O R M U L A T I N G W I T H

F R A G R A N C E

2

SOLUTION 05

Esters

FORMULAT ING W I T H F R A G R A N C E

2 TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE

SEDIMENTS

• Perfume Ingredients

• Dispersed in fragrance Oil (Powders, Resins…)

• Sediment in alcohol base

• Bad partitioning of fragrance ingredients

• Precipitation in surfactant base

Resin

Increase Ethanol %

Filtration

TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE SEDIMENTS

F O R M U L A T I N G W I T H

F R A G R A N C E

2

Store in different

conditions (Fridge)

In alcohol Base

Fragrance Modification

Minimize Fragrance %

In both systems

Check salinity of water

In surfactant Base

SOLUTION 06

FORMULAT ING W I T H F R A G R A N C E

2 TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE

ODOUR

1- Initial

• Raw materials

- Surfactants (SLES…)

- Poor grade emollients (Rancid Oils…)

- Preservatives (Phenethyl alcohol…)

• Packaging materials (Residual solvents)

PET bottle PVC Container

TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE ODOUR

2- After chemical changes

• Raw materials

- Fragrance-Fragrance interaction (Base Schiff)

- Oxidation of aroma chemicals (Oils, Ess. Oils)

- pH alteration

• Packaging materials

- Permeability (Oxidation, Alteration of fragrance performance, Spoilage)

- Breakdown

F O R M U L A T I N G W I T H

F R A G R A N C E

2

Raw materials?

TYPICAL FUNCTIONAL ISSUE ODOUR

Minimize initial smell of the base

Use high grade

emollients and oils

Add Antioxidants & Chelators

F O R M U L A T I N G W I T H

F R A G R A N C E

2

SOLUTION 07

Maintain neutral pH

Add UV absorbers in

base and packaging

Check packaging

permeability & smell

• Extremely important

• Predict long term stability

• Unperfumed base should be tested prior to fragranced base

• Storage conditions UV light, shop light, sun light, dark, oven at stable temperatures, freezer, fridge, freeze – thaw cycles

FORMULAT ING W I T H F R A G R A N C E

2 STABILITY TESTS

INCORPORATING FRAGRANCE SUCCESSFULLY INTO COSMETIC PRODUCTS

LET’S TALK ABOUT IT! DISCUSSION 3

T H I S S M E L L S G R E A T

DISCUSS ION

3 LET’S TALK ABOUT IT!

Your fragrance supplier is always at your disposal to help

you overcome formulation problems!

Treat fragrances as mixtures of chemicals

Know what they are and their

properties

A lot of other unknown issues &

interactions

Have defined technical

parameters

Specific stability requirements? Sensitive base

materials?

Cooperate between perfumer, formulator, chemist and customer

Take every possible variable into account

Allow adequate time for testing

and resolution of problems

CONTACT

If you require more information,

we will be delighted to hear from you.

Please write, call or email us directly.

Thank you for your attention!

VIORYL S.A.

28th km Athens - Lamia National Rd, 190 14 Afidnes, Greece

Tel. (+ 30) 22950 45 100

Fax (+ 30) 22950 45 250

Email gkika@vioryl.gr

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