a novel printing method to enhance the fixation of reactive dyes on wool–polyamide fabrics
TRANSCRIPT
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A novel printing method to enhance the fixation ofreactive dyes on wool–polyamide fabricsM.M. Marie a , A.A. Salem a & E.M.R. El Zairy aa Textile Printing, Dyeing, and Finishing Department, Faculty of Applied Arts , HelwanUniversity , Orman Giza 12311, EgyptPublished online: 28 Feb 2011.
To cite this article: M.M. Marie , A.A. Salem & E.M.R. El Zairy (2011) A novel printing method to enhance thefixation of reactive dyes on wool–polyamide fabrics, The Journal of The Textile Institute, 102:9, 790-800, DOI:10.1080/00405000.2010.522049
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The Journal of The Textile Institute
Vol. 102, No. 9, September 2011, 790–800
ISSN 0040-5000 print/ISSN 1754-2340 onlineCopyright © 2011 The Textile InstituteDOI: 10.1080/00405000.2010.522049http://www.informaworld.com
A novel printing method to enhance the fixation of reactive dyes on wool–polyamide fabrics
M.M. Marie, A.A. Salem* and E.M.R. El Zairy
Textile Printing, Dyeing, and Finishing Department, Faculty of Applied Arts, Helwan University, Orman Giza 12311, Egypt
Taylor and Francis
(
Received 1 May 2010; final version received 3 September 2010
)
10.1080/00405000.2010.522049
The aim of this paper is to explain how colour fastness results are improved as a result of increasing the degree offixation of reactive dyes on wool, polyamide and wool–polyamide blend fabrics. Wool–polyamide blend fabrics wereprinted with two different types of reactive dyes, e.g. monochlorotriazine and vinylsulphone. Trichloroacetic acid(TCAA) was added to the printing paste for controlling the pH level during the fixation process to get a maximumcolour yield and a maximum dye fixation on the two components of the blend, e.g. wool and polyamide. In order toaccelerate the reaction rate, a quaternising agent, e.g. triethylamine (TEA) was also added to the printing paste. Thefactors that may affect the efficiency of printing method, e.g. the concentration of TCAA, urea, wetting agent, TEA,steaming time and temperature were studied in detail.
Keywords:
wool–polyamide; reactive dye; trichloroacetic acid; triethylamine; quaternisation
Introduction
Wool–polyamide blends are usually printed with acidand metal complex dyes. Acid dyes give brilliant printsand a few of them exhibit all-around fastness propertieson polyamide 6 and polyamide 66. On the other hand,metal complex dyes are used to get very high fastnessproperties, but these dyes usually produce dull prints onpolyamide fibre (Datye & Vaidya, 1984). Different stud-ies have therefore been made to improve colour fastnessof anionic dyes on polyamide fabrics (Brady & Cookson,1979; Bulik, 1983; Holm, 2004; Morita & Motomura,1985; Mousa, Youssef, Farouk, & El-kharadly, 2006;Noah, 1985; Sada, Kumazawa, & Ando, 1986; Schaferet al., 2002).
At times, disperse dyes are also used in conjunctionwith another class of dyes for printing wool–polyamideblends, which require intensive washing off or clearingto remove disperse dye taken up by wool, resulting intobackground staining of the fabric frequently. Despiteafter treatments, the fastness properties of prints gener-ally do not meet standards required for machine wash-able garments. Also the use of mixtures of differenttypes of dyes can introduce difficulties in colour match-ing, particularly when blend proportions are varied.
A single dye with good fastness on both wool andpolyamide fibre could overcome these problems,providing the build-up and colour in solid shade on bothfibres (Brady & Cookson, 1979). The introduction ofreactive dyes has made the possibility of using only one
type of dyes and simple application conditions thereof.These dyes are brighter and faster-diffusing, and canremove the hydrolysed form easily by washing offprocess (Miles, 1994). Therefore, all these aspects ofdyeing must be considered when selecting reactive dyesfor printing and attention must be paid to print pastestability and staining of the ground during washing off.
Moreover, it should also be noted that if the fixationof reactive dyes to wool–polyamide fibre is carried outunder a strong acidic medium which is not suitable forthe chemical reaction between amino groups on bothwool and polyamide fibres and reactive dyes, poor washfastness may result.
In this investigation, a new approach to printingwool–polyamide fabric is proposed for maximising thefixation of reactive dyes by enhancing the covalentreaction between functional groups in the substrate andreactive dyes. To achieve this goal, trichloroacetic acid(TCAA) is added to the printing paste for controllingthe pH level during the printing process. Triethyleamine(TEA) is also used for accelerating the rate of chemicalreaction between the reactive dyes and both wool andpolyamide fibres.
Experimental materials
Substrate
Three types of fabrics were used in this study: polya-mide 6, mill-scoured polyamide 6 knitted fabric (100%),
*Corresponding author. Email: [email protected]
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warp knitting, open width, count 40/12 denier, flat yarn,weight of square meter 92.5 g;
Wool
, mill-scoured woolfabric (100%), plain wool fabric of 200 g/m
2
; and
Blend
,wool–polyamide 20/80, mill-scoured fabric of 240 g/m
2
.
Dyestuffs
Two different types of reactive dyes were selected andused, namely monochlorotriazine (MCT): BezactivNavy H-ER (Bezema Co.) (C.I. Reactive Blue 171); andvinylsulphone (VS), Setazol S2B (Setazol Kimya Co.).
Thickening agents
These include Meypro gum T-8, supplied by DaniscoCo., Switzerland; Diagum
®
A-8, guar gum GG, depoly-merised glactomannans, was supplied by BF Goodrich;and Diamalte GmbH, Munich, Germany.
Auxiliaries
Trichloroacetic acid (TCAA) (Cl
3
C.COOH) wassupplied by Riedel Haen (Germany); urea (H
2
N–CO–NH
2
) was supplied by El Nasr PharmaceuticalChemicals, Egypt; Triethylamine (TEA) (C
6
H
15
N) wassupplied by Sisco Research Laboratories Pvt. Ltd.,Bombay, India; Tanaterge SD, non-ionic detergent, wassupplied by Sybron Tanatex Co. and was used for thewashing off process of the printed samples; andKieralon AE 3D (BASF), non-ionic wetting agent.
Methods
Pretreatment
Wool and wool–polyamide fabrics were subjected tobio-treatment with brewer’s yeast filtrate, as an eco-friendly alternative to chlorination process. The treat-ment was done by using 300 ml/L brewer’s yeastfiltrate, pH 8, temp. 70
°
C, L.R. 1:40 and for 2 hr (Marie,Abd El-Hamid, El-Khatib, & El Gamal, 2004).
Printing method
The treated (wool, wool–polyamide) fabrics along withpolyamide were printed with a printing paste thickenedwith gums, after printing and drying at room tempera-ture, samples were fixed by saturated steam at 120
°
Cfor 15 min. Table 1 shows the printing paste formula-tion used in this study.
Washing off
The prints were washed with cold water and soaped at60
°
C for 10 min with 2 g/l Tanaterge SD, then rinsedwith hot and cold water and air dried.
Measurements
Colour strength
The colour strength (expressed as
K
/
S
) of the printedfabrics was evaluated by using a computerised spectro-photometer, Model 520220 (ICS-Texicon Ltd. Co.,UK). The
K
/
S
values of the prints were automaticallycalculated according to Kobelka–Munk equation (Judd& Wyszecji, 1975):
where
K
and
S
are the absorption and scatteringcoefficients, respectively, and
R
is the reflectance of theprints. This measurement was carried out at Faculty ofApplied Arts, Helwan University, Egypt.
Fastness tests
The colour fastness properties for the printed fabrics towashing (61-1969), rubbing (8-1996) and perspiration(15-1997) were all measured and determined accordingto American Association of Textile Chemist andColourist (AATCC) standard method (AATCC, 2004).
Results and discussion
In wool printing with reactive dyes, chlorinationprocess has been done to improve the absorbability ofwool either by creating different types of polar groupsin wool or by removing the scales from the surface ofwool fibres, leading to easy dye-diffusion inside thefibre with substantial increase in the colour strength ofprinted fabrics. It was found that 99% of reactive dyescan be fixed under ideal printing conditions after thechlorination process (El Hamaky, Tawfeek, Ibrahim,Maamoun, & Gaber, 2007).
In this investigation, wool and wool–polyamidefabrics were subjected to bio-treatment with brewer’s
K SR
R/
( )= −1
2
2
Table 1. Formulation for the printing paste used in thisstudy.
Constituent Setazol Red S2B Bezactive Navy
Reactive dye 30 g/kg 30 g/kgThickening
agent500 g/kg meypro
gum T-8500 g/kg Diagum
®
A-8
TCAA 3 g/kg 7 g/kgTEA 10 g/kg 20 g/kgUrea 50 g/kg 100 g/kgNon-ionic
wetting agent10 g/kg 5 g/kg
Water — —Total 1000 g 1000 g
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yeast filtrate [(fungus)
Saccharomyces uvarum andSaccharomyces cerevisiae
] instead of chlorinationprocess (Marie et al., 2004).
Different studies proved that the suspension ofbrewer’s yeast is very effective in increasing the hydro-philicity of wool fabric owing to its hydrolytic effect onpoly peptide chains (Marie et al., 2004; Salem, 2004;Salem, El Khatib, El Gazar, & Marie, 2007). Theobtained results indicated that the improvement in thecolour strength of bio-treated printed fabric reached to7% and 13% for both wool and wool–polyamide, respec-tively. Therefore, the investigation was done on the bio-treated samples printed with a novel printing paste thatcontained TCAA and TEA along with other additives.
Different factors were studied to select the bestauxiliaries and their optimum concentrations to beadded to the printing paste in order to obtain a maxi-mum colour yield of the prints and improve dye fixationon wool–polyamide fabrics; the results obtained arediscussed in detail.
Effect of trichloroacetic acid concentration
Whereas cellulosic fibre has one type of functionalgroups capable of reacting with reactive dyes, e.g. –OHgroups, wool fibre has many different types of polargroups, i.e. –NH
2
, –SH and –OH groups. Polyamidefibre contains a terminal amino group along with a largenumber of –NH groups. Each one of these functionalgroups requires a specific pH level to react covalentlywith reactive dyes such as chlorotriazine and vinylsul-phone. It must be noted that the higher the rate ofabsorption, the lower the rate of fixation takes place inan acid medium (Klapper, 1971). By increasing the pHof the medium, the reaction velocity of reactive dyeswith both wool and polyamide fibres increases gradu-ally until it reaches its maximum at pH = 6–7 approxi-mately. The degree of fixation is, clearly, related to thedye content inside the fibre with which wool and polya-mide can be react (Hadfield & Lemin, 1960).
It is stated that histidine is the most reactivecompound in wool capable of reacting with the reactivedye at pH = 4, whereas the reaction with lysine is foundto be at its maximum degree at pH = 6–8 (Shore, 1969).There have been various studies on using TCAA withreactive dyes in the printing paste discussed earlier (AbdEl-Salam & Ibrahim, 2007; El Hamaky et al., 2007;Marie, Abdallah, Fathalla, & Abdel Kerim, 2007).TCAA is added to printing paste to create a convenientpH level for increasing the amount of reactive dyes onthe substrates used especially at the beginning of thesteaming process when the temperature is low and theprinting paste is prepared. TCAA gives a strong acidicmedium to the printing paste owing to its complete disso-ciation at a very low pH value equal to 2 (Lewis, 1981).
Whereas during the fixation process, the acidicmedium of the printing paste will gradually convert intoalkaline to reach pH level about 8–9 which is consid-ered a suitable medium for chemical reaction betweenamino and imine groups in polyamide fibre as well asthe different functional groups in wool fibre and reac-tive dye (Abbott, Asquith, Ehan, & Otterburn, 1975).
To study the effect of using TCAA, printing pastescontaining different concentrations of this acid (0, 1, 3,5, 7, 9 g/kg) were prepared, thereby wool, polyamideand polyamide/wool blend fabrics were printed andthen were fixed by steaming with saturated steam.
The results of colour strength are illustrated inTable 2.
It is obvious from Table 2 that the addition of TCAAto the printing paste increases the
K
/
S
value using 3 g/kg in the case of printing the fabrics with Setazol Reddye (VS), whereas 7 gm/kg gives a maximum value of
K
/
S
when printing with Bezactiv Navy dye (MCT).A further increase in TCAA concentration is accom-
panied with a decrease in
K
/
S
of the prints irrespectiveof fabric type.
It is interesting to note that by adding TCAA to theprinting paste, the colour strength of the prints is foundto increase by about 41.89, 9.28 and 43.07% for wool,
Table 2. Effect of trichloroacetic acid concentration on the colour strength of the prints.
Colour strength
K
/
S
Trichloroacetic acid concentration g/kg
Setazol Red S2B Bezactiv Navy H-ER
Wool Polyamide Wool–polyamide Wool Polyamide Wool–polyamide
0 10.36 14.12 9.89 1.61 2.02 1.741 12.80 15.08 13.95 1.65 2.17 1.763 14.70 15.43 14.15 1.60 2.20 2.675 10.18 16.17 12.50 3.21 2.42 4.427 11.92 17.89 14.10 5.97 2.94 4.909 10.81 15.34 11.81 1.52 2.61 4.61
Notes: Urea 50 g/kg for two dyes; steaming conditions: temperature 120
°
C and time 15 min; wetting agent 10 g/kg for two dyes.
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polyamide and blended fabrics, respectively, comparedto the samples printed without using TCAA in case ofthe vinylsulphone dye (Setazol Red S2B).
In case of monochlorotriazine dye (Bezactiv NavyH-ER), the magnitude of the increase in colour strengthwas found to be greater than that of vinylsulphone dyesince the percent increase in
K
/
S
was 270.81, 45.54 and181.61% for wool, polyamide and the blended fabrics,respectively.
The increase in the colour strength of the printedfabrics is attributed to the decomposition of the (TCAA)under steaming condition (at about 100
°
C) to yield afree radical with the liberation of protons, as illustratedin Scheme 1 (Lewis, 1981).
Scheme 1. Decomposition of the (TCAA) under steaming condition.
These protons will be absorbed by the wool–polya-mide fabric, leading to protonation of amino groups, tobe positively charged dye-sites capable of attracting theanionic reactive dyes through ionic bonding, which willincrease the amount of diffused dye into the fibre.
Under the high temperature of steaming and by last-ing the duration, the pH of the printing paste graduallychanges from acidic to neutral and finally to alkaline pHrange offering different pH values suitable for chemicalreaction of reactive dyes with the various types of func-tional groups present in both wool and polyamide fibres.
By raising the pH, the protonated amino groups(–NH
+3
) of wool–polyamide fabric will transformgradually into the nucleophilic form (NH
2
) (Lewis,& Sun, 2003) capable of reacting covalently with thereactive dye as follows:
Scheme 2. Wool reacting covalently with the reactive dye.
where D is reactive dye.A similar mechanism is suggested to carry out with
polyamide fibre.
Effect of urea concentration
Urea is one of the most important assistants in printingwith reactive dyes. The functions of urea are to increasedye solubility and improve the yield of the reaction withthe fibre (Kiss, 1969). The efficiency of urea in increas-ing the bonded dye yield has been attributed to severalfactors: (1) swelling of the fibre (Wegmann, 1958), (2)hydrogen bond breaking reagent (Asquith & Booth,1970a; Burdett & Galek, 1982; Neurath, & Davie, 1955;Segal & Eggerton, 1961), and (3) disaggregation of thedye (Asquith & Booth, 1970b), thereby improving dyediffusion inside the fibre (Asquith & Booth, 1971;Kogel, 1962; Peter, 1961; Rattee & Seltzer, 1962). Onthe other hand, the hydrolysis of urea at high tempera-tures during steaming stage leads to the liberation ofammonia causing an increase in the pH and hence anincrease in the degree of fixation of reactive dyes(Marie et al., 2007).
The effect of urea concentration (ranging from 0 to150 g/kg) in the printing paste on the dye fixation onwool–polyamide fabrics and the results of
K
/
S
of theprints are shown in Table 3. It is clear from Table 3 thatthe
K
/
S
of wool and wool–polyamide prints with bothreactive dyes gradually increases by increasing theamount of urea in the printing paste until it reaches itsmaximum value at the concentration 100g/kg for bothreactive dyes used. The magnitude of increase in colourstrength of the two dyes is related to the molecular sizeof the dye itself. At higher concentrations of urea in theprinting paste over 100 g/kg in case of Bezactiv NavyH-ER and 50 g/kg in case of Setazol Red S2B dyes, areduction in
K
/
S
is observed because at higher concen-tration of urea the magnitude of fibre swelling decreases(Wegmann, 1958). Also, the presence of a combinationof wetting agent, urea and dye in the printing paste
Scheme 1. Decomposition of the (TCAA) under steamingcondition.
Scheme 2. Wool reacting covalently with the reactive dye.
Table 3. Effect of urea concentration on the colour strength of the prints.
Setazol Red S2B Bezactiv Navy H-ER
Urea concentration (g/kg) Wool Polyamide Wool–polyamide Wool Polyamide Wool–polyamide
0 7.58 16.00 6.70 2.93 1.00 2.0725 8.16 15.01 8.47 3.95 1.85 2.2750 14.70 15.43 14.15 5.97 2.94 4.975 14.13 13.87 12.43 7.54 3.23 5.02100 22.82 10.80 16.47 9.38 2.86 6.36150 19.17 7.65 16.41 6.00 1.3 3.31
Notes: TCAA 3 g/kg for Setazol Red S2B and 7 g/kg for Bezactiv Navy H-ER; wetting agent 10 g/kg for both dyes; steaming conditions:temperature 120
°
C and time 15 min.
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could form urea dye complex, resulting in lowerdiffusion rate inside the fibre (Neurath & Davie, 1955).
Effect of wetting agent
The impact of the addition of non-ionic wetting agent tothe printing paste at different concentrations was alsoinvestigated. Printing pastes with different concentra-tions of wetting agent (0, 5, 10, 20, 25 and 30 g/kg)were prepared.
It is obvious from the results shown in Table 4 thatadding non-ionic wetting agent to the printing pastegradually increases the
K
/
S
value until it reaches itsmaximum by using 10 g/kg for Setazol Red dye and 5g/kg for Bezactiv Navy dye, which may be attributed tothe enhanced wettability of the fabric by reducing theinterfacial tension between the liquid and the solidsurface which promote quick contact between the dyeand fibre surface, and hence increase the diffusion ofthe dye molecules inside the fibre (Gupta, 1980).
Another interesting property of wetting agent is itsability to form micelles capable of solubilising anddisaggregating other molecules such as dyes. Anincrease in wetting agent concentration is accompaniedwith an increase in the rate of diffusion of dye mole-cules into the fibre, until the surfactant concentrationreaches the critical micelle concentration CMC (theconcentration at which micelles begin to form).
At the higher CMC the development of another typeof association, a mixed micelle, is performed. On exceed-ing the CMC, the addition of dye molecules in mixedmicelles reduces the concentration of free dye moleculesin bulk. Dye–surfactant interaction causes desorption ofdye from the fibre, reducing the rate of sorption and diffu-sion into the fibre (Datyner, 1993). By increasing surfac-tant concentration, a larger complex is formed. Thisphenomenon is clearly proved by the results shown inTable 4 that increasing the concentration of wetting agent
above 10 g/kg and 5 g/kg for Setazol Red and BezactivNavy dyes, respectively, results into a decrease in the
K
/
S
values of the prints irrespective of the fabric type.
Effect of triethylamine (TEA) concentration
Table 5 shows the effect of TEA concentration on thecolour strength, expressed as
K
/
S
, of wool, polyamideand wool–polyamide fabrics printed with reactive dyes.It is clear from Table 5 that TEA plays a great role inaccelerating the chemical reaction between the reactivedyes and both wool and polyamide fabrics, which isevidenced from the observed increase in colour strengthof prints. By increasing the concentration of TEA in theprinting paste, a significant increase in colour strengthof the prints is attained up to its maximum value at themost suitable concentration of TEA (10 g/kg).
The enhancement in colour strength is associatedwith the favourable effect of TEA on (1) enhancingthe swellability of the fabrics, (2) modifying the state ofthe dye as well as dye structure, thereby enhancing itsreactivity via quaternisation mechanism, and/or (3)increasing the extent of covalent dye fixation therebyincreasing
K
/
S
values (Dawson, 1964; Ibrahem & ElSayed, 1993; Liu, Gao, & Cheng, 1991). A furtherincrease in TEA concentration, for a given set of printingconditions, has practically no significant effect on
K
/
S
.
Mechanism of quaternisation and fixation reactions
It is well known that the reactivity of reactive dyes maybe increased by applying them in conjunction withcertain tertiary amines. The quaternised reactive dyes canreact with the functional nucleophilic groups of the fibrewith formation of covalent bonding when releasing theamine. The reaction mechanism is illustrated as follows:
Table 4. Effect of wetting agent concentration on the colour strength of the prints.
Colour strength
K
/
S
Wetting agent concentration (g/kg)
Setazol Red S2B Bezactiv Navy H-ER
Wool Polyamide Wool–polyamide Wool Polyamide Wool–polyamide
0 6.63 13.46 6.31 6.42 3.73 1.735 13.1 13.32 13 9.95 7.87 2.9010 14.70 15.43 14.15 9.38 2.87 6.3615 14.45 9.95 11.40 8.25 5.64 1.5620 7.93 15.06 9.00 6.76 5.42 1.4825 12.76 14.19 11.07 6.61 5.39 1.4630 12.24 11.71 9.79 5.83 4.85 1.40
Notes: TCAA 3 g/kg and 7 g/kg for Setazol Red S2B and Bezactiv Navy H-ER, respectively; urea 50 g/kg and 100 g/kg for Setazol Red S2B andBezactiv Navy H-ER, respectively; steaming conditions: temperature 120
°
C and time 15 min.
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(1) for monochlorotriazine dye:
Scheme 3. The reaction between the fiber and quaternised reactive dyes (for monochlorotriazine dye).
(2) for vinylsulphone dye.
It is well known that diethylammonium group isconsidered to be one of the mobile groups in reactivedyes containing aliphatic chains as follows (Lewis,1982).
Scheme 4 and 5. The reaction between the fiber and quaternised reactive dyes (for vinylsulphone dye).
Therefore, the quaternisation mechanism of vinyl-sulphone dyes can be suggested as follows:
These reactions are similar to that of the conversionof the N-methyltaurine derivative of hestalan dyes tothe vinylsulphone dye at high temperature (100
°
C) andat pH = 5–5.5 (Venkatarama, 1972).
Thus, it can be concluded that the rate and thedegree of quaternisation depend on the tertiary amineconcentration used. Therefore, the degree of dye fixa-tion is correlated to the concentration of TEA includedin the printing paste.
Steaming conditions
Tables 6 and 7 show the effect of steaming tempera-ture and steaming time, respectively, on the fixationresults of printing wool, polyamide and wool–polya-mide blend. For a given printing paste formulation, itis evident that increasing the steaming time from 3min to 30 min, at 120
°
C, brings about an increase in
K
/
S
values of the obtained reactive prints, reflectingthe positive impact of proper steaming time onreleasing the dye molecules from the thickener filmto the fabric phase, transfer of dye molecules acrossthe fabric structure, diffusion into the fibre structureto its active groups and a consequent reaction withand fixation at those reactive sites, thereby increas-ing the
K
/
S
values of the printed fabric samples(Kongliang & Aiqin, 1998). A maximum colourstrength is expected when steaming process is carriedout for 15 min at 120
°
C and 130
°
C for Setazol RedS2B (vinylsulphone) and Bezactiv Navy H-ER(monochlorotriazine) dyes, respectively. These resultsclearly reflect the difference in reactivity of bothreactive dyes used. Further lengthening of steam fixa-tion time up to 30 min at 120
°
C has practically slightor no effect on the depth of the reactive prints, mostprobably due to the shortage in and/or inaccessibilityof the dye-sites (Ibrahim, El-Zairy, El Gamal, &Tolba, 2001). It is also evident from Table 6 that
Table 5. Effect of triethylamine concentration on the colour strength of the prints.
Colour strength
K
/
S
Setazol Red S2B Bezactiv Navy H-ER
TEA concentration (g/kg) Wool Polyamide Wool–polyamide Wool Polyamide Wool–polyamide
0 14.70 15.43 14.15 9.95 2.90 7.872 15.72 17.14 15.19 10.05 2.96 7.895 14.41 19.13 12.94 10.23 3.01 7.9510 16.02 18.24 16.65 10.40 3.06 7.9820 14.49 18.54 17.15 10.42 3.29 7.9930 13.55 14.98 13.65 10.40 3.22 7.97
Notes: TCAA 3 g/kg and 7 g/kg for Setazol Red S2B and Bezactiv Navy H-ER, respectively; wetting agent 10 g/kg and 5 g/kg for Setazol RedS2B and Bezactiv Navy H-ER, respectively; urea 50 g/kg and 100 g/kg for Setazol Red S2B and Bezactiv Navy H-ER, respectively; steamingconditions: temperature 120
°
C and time 15 min.
Scheme 3. The reaction between the fibre and quaternisedreactive dyes (for monochlorotriazine dye).
Scheme 5. The reaction between the fibre and quaternisedreactive dyes (for vinylsulphone dye).
Scheme 4. Diethylammonium group in reactive dyes.
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raising the steam fixation temperature up to 120
°
Chas positive impact on
K/S values regardless of anyreactive dyes used, most probably due to theenhancement in fabric swellability, the extent of dyerelease from the thickener film and diffusion withinthe swelled structure to appropriate active centres;and binding at those sites thereby gives rise to adarker depth of shade.
Further increase in steaming temperature up to130°C for 15 min has a slight negative or no effect onthe K/S values as a result of side interactions among thethickener film components (Ibrahim, Abo-Shosha,Allam, El-Zairy, & El-Zairy, 2006).
It can be concluded from Table 7 that 15 min isan ideal time for vinylsulphone dye fixation owingto its high reactivity, whereas 20 min is an idealtime for monochlorotriazine dye fixation owning toits lower reactivity that needs higher degree oftemperature and longer time to achieve higher dyefixation.
Comparison between the new printing method and the traditional method
It can be concluded from Table 8 that there is a greatincrease in the K/S by using the new printing method asa result of increasing the degree of dye fixation on bothwool and polyamide fibres.
Colour fastness properties
The colour fastness properties of the three differenttypes of fabric such as wool, polyamide and wool–polyamide printed with an identical optimum print-ing paste using six applied reactive dyes were testedand evaluated according to AATCC standard(AATCC, 2004), and the results are shown in Tables9 and 10.
It can be concluded from Tables 9 and 10 that a signif-icant improvement in all fastness properties is achievedfor all the reactive dyes used. This improvement in the
Table 6. Effect of steaming temperature on the colour strength of the prints.
Colour strength K/S
Setazol Red S2B Bezactiv Navy H-ER
Temperature (°C) Wool Polyamide Wool–polyamide Wool Polyamide Wool–polyamide
100 10.48 2.43 9.42 6.44 0.87 2.09105 11.49 10.57 11.09 8.09 1.90 4.96110 11.91 13.93 11.88 8.54 2.10 6.38115 13.04 16.07 13.38 9.05 2.83 6.52120 16.02 18.24 16.65 10.42 3.29 7.99130 15.41 17.63 16.73 12.93 5.06 8.53
Notes: TCAA 3 g/kg and 7 g/kg for Setazol Red S2B and Bezactiv Navy H-ER, respectively; wetting agent 10 g/kg and 5 g/kg for Setazol RedS2B and Bezactiv Navy H-ER, respectively; urea 50 g/kg and 100 g/kg for Setazol Red S2B and Bezactiv Navy H-ER; respectively; steamingconditions: time 15 min.
Table 7. Effect of steaming time on the colour strength of the prints.
Colour strength K/S
Setazol Red S2B Bezactiv Navy H-ER
Time (min) Wool Polyamide Wool–polyamide Wool Polyamide Wool–polyamide
3 9.63 9.83 11.92 3.54 0.63 3.365 11.81 14.27 13.61 6.91 1.30 4.9710 13.98 15.40 15.86 8.86 1.92 6.0015 16.02 18.24 16.65 10.42 3.06 7.9820 13.61 17.62 17.57 11.54 2.96 8.0630 13.72 16.86 18.18 11.90 2.93 8.53
Notes: TCAA 3 g/kg and 7 g/kg for Setazol Red S2B and Bezactiv Navy H-ER, respectively; wetting agent 10 g/kg and 5 g/kg for Setazol RedS2B and Bezactiv Navy H-ER, respectively; urea 50 g/kg and 100 g/kg for Setazol Red S2B and Bezactiv Navy H-ER, respectively; steamingconditions: temperature 120°C.
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Table 8. The percent increase in K/S of the different prints with some reactive dyes as a result of using the new printing method.
Colour strength of the prints
Dyestuffs Substrates Traditional method New printing method Increase in K/S (%)
Bezactiv Navy H-ER(MCT/MCT)C.I. Reactive Blue 171
WoolBlendPolyamide
2.932.071.00
10.427.993.29
255.63285.99229
Suncion Red H-E7B(MCT/MCT)
WoolBlendPolyamide
6.458.270.94
13.6617.40
2.3
111.78110.40144.68C.I. Reactive Red 141
Suncion Blue H-EGN(MCT/MCT)C.I. Reactive Blue 198
WoolBlendPolyamide
7.9110.06
0.83
15.3218.72
1.4
93.6886.0868.67
Synfix Red S3B (VS+MCT)
WoolBlendPolyamide
9.799.524.60
19.9816.4810.26
104.0873.11
123.04
Bezactiv Red H-E3B(MCT/MCT)C.I. Reactive Red 120
WoolBlendPolyamide
5.386.093.50
12.39.997.17
128.6264.04
104.86
Setazol Red S2B(VS)
WoolBlendPolyamide
14.7014.1515.43
16.0216.6518.24
8.9817.6718.21
Table 9. Fastness properties of control printed fabrics (traditional method).
Rubbing fastness
Perspiration fastness
Wash fastness Acidic Alkaline
Dyestuffs Substrate Alteration Staining Dry Wet Alteration Staining Alteration Staining
Bezactiv Navy H-ER (MCT) Wool 4–5 4 3–4 3–4 5 4–5 4–5 4–5Blend 4–5 5 3–4 3 5 5 4–5 5Polyamide 3–4 4 3 2–3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5
Suncion Red H-E7B Wool 4 4–5 4 4 5 5 4–5 5Blend 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5 5Polyamide 3 3–4 3 2–3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5
Suncion Blue H-EGN (VS) Wool 4–5 5 4 3–4 4–5 4–5 5 5Blend 4–5 4–5 5 5 5 5 5 5Polyamide 4 4–5 4 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5
Synfix Red S3B (VS+MCT) Wool 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5 5Blend 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5Polyamide 4 3–4 4 4 4–5 4–5 5 5
Bezactiv Red H-E3B (MCT) Wool 4 4–5 4 3–4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5Blend 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4 3–4Polyamide 3 3–4 3 2–3 3–4 4 4 4–5
Setazol Red S2B (VS) Wool 5 5 3 2 4–5 4–5 4–5 3–4Blend 5 5 3–4 2 4–5 4–5 4–5 3–4Polyamide 5 5 4–5 4–5 4 4 4–5 3–4
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fastness properties can be attributed to increasing thefixation of reactive dyes which react covalently with thefunctional groups in the fibre structure of both wool andpolyamide.
Table 10 shows that the wash fastness is very goodto excellent with rating between 4 and 5; perspirationfastness is very good to excellent with the same ratingbetween 4 and 5; and rubbing fastness is good to excel-lent ranting between 3 and 5, depending on the type ofreactive dyes used.
Conclusion
It can be concluded from the study that adding TCAAto the printing paste for the fixation of reactive dyeimproves the capability of wool, polyamide andtheir blend to absorb the reactive dye, which means agreater chance of covalent reaction and hence higherdye fixation.
Also, the addition of TEA to the printing paste isfound to increase the reactivity of the reactive dyesused, thereby enhancing the rate of chemical reactionwith the available dye-sites in the fibre.
The rate of increase in dye fixation and hence therealised K/S was noticed to correlate with other
additives in the printing paste such as urea and wettingagent. Maximum dye fixation is achieved by usingurea at 50 g/kg and 100 g/kg for Setazol Red S2B andBezactiv Navy H-ER dyes, respectively. Higher colourstrength was also found to attain on wool–polyamidefabric by using 10 g/kg and 5 g/kg non-ionic wettingagent for Setazol Red S2B and Bezactiv Navy H-ERdyes, respectively.
Steaming with saturated steam at 120°C for 15 minis the optimum steaming condition for realisingmaximum fixation of reactive dyes on the three types offabrics under this investigation.
Colour fastness results are improved as a result ofincreasing the degree of fixation of reactive dyes on wool,polyamide and wool–polyamide blend fabrics. Washingand perspiration fastness range between very good toexcellent and rubbing fastness gives good to excellentresults depending on the type of reactive dye used.
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Table 10. Fastness properties of reactive prints using the new printing method.
Perspiration fastness
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