A Mini-guide to GIGGLESWICK

SCAR SOUTH (Version 1) LOW LEVEL CRAG & U BEND

By Paul Clarke, Dave Musgrove & Nigel Baker The cost of replacement and of establishing new rou tes has been great and you might consider making a contribution if you are using thi s supplement . Cheques should be made payable to The Yorkshire Bolt Fund and sent to Dave Musgrove at 11, Wynmore Avenue, Bramhope, Leeds, LS16 9DD. A Paypal account will be found on the Leeds Wall website. Cheques are preferable since Paypal a lways take a cut. The Bolt Fund has two sections - replacement and new routes. If you would prefer your donation to go to only one of these then please inform Dave. The star ratings and grades on the routes tend to be those given by the first ascentionist – and so should be treated with care. That being said, the popularity of sport climbing in Yorkshire has ensured that many rapid repeats have at least begun to form a consensus. WARNING: Climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should b e aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvemen t. Many of these climbs have had few ascents. Whilst c are has been taken the authors accept no responsibility for the accuracy of the de scriptions or towards those choosing to attempt any of these routes – to do so is your choice.

SITUATION AND CHARACTER A long fragmented escarpment overlooking the southern end of Buckhaw Brow and the Settle Golf Course. Until the late 1990s and its transformation to a predominantly sport-climbing venue this crag was very much the Cinderella sector of all the Giggleswick Scars. Following a relatively brief period of popularity in the early 1970s it had become overgrown, unloved and neglected. Most of the old trad lines follow deep cracks and corners but there was plenty of virgin, if somewhat loose, rock on the blank walls in between. With a modern approach a little cleaning and a few bolts the cliff is now amongst the most popular in the area and its west facing, sheltered position makes it an excellent winter venue. Most areas dry quickly and there is little problem with seepage. In mid summer the tree cover and path-side vegetation do encroach somewhat but climbing is possible all year round. Most of the sport routes require no more than 8 quick-draws, all are equipped with double bolt lower-offs. There are, however, still several reasonable trad lines here in the VS to E2 range many of which have been re-cleaned in recent years. Although the crag receives a lot of traffic there is plenty to occupy the visitor and the spread-out nature of the sectors means that a sense of relative isolation is possible. APPROACHES & ACCESS Parking - There is limited parking (4 or 5 cars parked facing the crag) in a layby just beyond the entrance to Settle Golf Club about half a mile north of Giggleswick village on the old A65.Other parking is available down the road to Giggleswick School – a short way back towards Settle. In either case make sure you park sensibly and respect local inhabitants and road users. If there really isn’t a good space, then go to the parking at the top of Buckhaw Brow and follow the approach for the High Level Crag dropping down ledges to the left of Sector Limelight – approximately below the middle of the High Level Crag. Approach - From the main parking area walk along a gently rising track parallel to the road for about 100metres until a zig-zag line up a scree slope leads to another horizontal path some way below the cliffs. Follow this left for about 120 metres until a final scramble leads up to the large and obvious Swan Buttress.

Development & Conservation - Like many limestone c rags in the Yorkshire Dales Giggleswick South is situated on land designated as an SSSI and recent popularity and development is causing some concern for Natural England. Please respect the flora and fauna of the escarpment and stick closely to the already established path. It is unlikely that any significant new routes will be found on the very vegetated sections of cliff that remain between the established sector s and it should now be accepted that major development here is complete .

HISTORY Early Trad development here began in May 1971. Over a period of time several devotees including Allan Austin, Frank Wilkinson, Roger Mackintosh, John Young, John Wainwright, Derek Farley, Colin Ellis, Mike Bebbington, Steve Wood, Dave Miller, Ken Wood, John Syrett, Angela Faller (now Soper) and Ed Grindley and in just fifteen months 25 or so routes had been pioneered. Austin made further occasional visits until 1976 with various partners but as the cracks and corners dried up it soon became apparent that the gaps in between were either on poor rock or too difficult to protect by conventional means. Other pioneers made occasional visits during the late seventies and early eighties but the only significant additions were the long undergraded Swansong by Paul Farrish and Dick Tong, and The Stand and Arnold Palmer by Dave Cronshaw and Dave Knighton. Cronshaw returned in 1985 with John Ryden to add the final worthwhile trad line, City Limits. In 1984 a huge rockfall to the left of Swan Buttress compounded the view that this was an altogether unstable crag and it slowly slipped from popularity and quickly reverted to nature with access paths and climbs becoming very overgrown. Triss Kenny’s sterling efforts to re generate interest with his re-write for the 1992 guide failed to stimulate the masses but one tantalising comment about a 17 metre high, clean and solid unclimbed wall was noted, albeit 4 years later, by one discerning reader, Andy Watts, who took the trouble to jungle bash his way through the woods for a closer look in May of 1996. A few days later with Nigel Baker, a Hilti and a big bag of bolts in tow the transformation was underway. By the time Dave Musgrove arrived the pair had three important lines staked out and Silent Laughter, Black Swan Rising and Heavenly Whispers became the first sport routes on Giggleswick South. Development then continued almost continually over the next 10 years – the main contributors, apart from the three already mentioned, being Glyn Edwards, Mick Johnson, Phillipe Osborne, Dick Tong with a large supporting cast. The final discoveries were made during the winter of 2006/7 when Bob Larkin and friends realised the potential of the previously overlooked Swallows Nest. Routes given first ascent details in this document have been done since the last YMC guide was published. THE CLIMBS are described from right to left from the point of normal arrival below Swan Buttress. SECTOR SWALLOWS NEST A new sector up and right from Sector Swans – The eponymous ‘bivouac’ or best gearing up spot is at the far right of the ledge just beyond the routes. 1 Kleine Scheidegg 9m F5 * The first line on the right side of the wall 50m right of Sector Swans climbing from a big ledge above a strange shaped tree. 16.3.07 Bob Larkin, Andy Shaw, Dave Musgrove 2 Alpiglen 10m F5+ ** The second line is delightful. Move up right from the first resin bolt and climb to a neat finish on great rock. 16.3.07 Dave Musgrove, Mick Johnson, Bob Larkin 3 The Second Ice-field 10m F6a+ ** Climb the steep wall directly to a lower off just right of the upper Yew Tree. Nicely sustained but with the crux at the start. 16.3.07 Bob Larkin, Andy Shaw, Dave Musgrove 4 The White Spider 10m F6a+ ** The bulging central line is taken direct to a lower-off just left of the upper Yew Tree. 13.3.07 Bob Larkin, Dave Musgrove

5 The Ice Hose 10m F6a * The line of resin bolts following the shallow slanting seam to the lower-off on The White Spider. 13.3.07 Dave Musgrove, Bob Larkin 6 The Shattered Pillar 10m F5+ * Start just left of a tree and climb up just right of a friable, greenish seam to a steepening finish on better rock. 16.3.07 Mick Johnson, Dave Musgrove, Bob Larkin 7 The Flat Iron 11m F6a+ ** The steep clean wall right of the hanging flake is quite technical and good holds above the overlap may prove elusive on first acquaintance. 16.3.07 Bob Larkin, Andy Shaw, Dave Musgrove 8 The Exit Cracks 11m F6b ** A great line directly up the steep cracks bounding the right side of the ‘somewhat worrying’ flakes. 16.3.07 Bob Larkin, Andy Shaw, Dave Musgrove, Mick Johnson 9 First Pillar 11m F5 * The wall to the left of the hanging flake starting behind the right side of the big Yew Tree. 13.3.07 Bob Larkin, Dave Musgrove 10 The Hinterstoisser Traverse 24m F6a+/b * It had to be done and goes R to L with no fixed rope required. July 07 Bob Larkin. SECTOR SWANS The path arrives at the crag here and the very large block behind Get Out of Town provides an obvious landmark. The smooth and high buttress on the right is Swan Buttress. 1 Mutant Sunshine 15m F6b * Climb the first line of bolts on the extreme right edge of Swan Buttress. The crux bulge can be crossed either right or left (harder) of the second bolt but a good jug on the right above the break gives access to the 4th clip. Trend up and left to merge with The Mute Swan near the top. 2 The Mute Swan 15m F6a+ *** An excellent direct line climbing the lower wall common with Black Swan and then straight up a vague crack from the fourth bolt to finish on the right-hand side of the upper tower. 3 Black Swan Rising 16m F6b *** The original sport route on the crag. A superb line on good rock, one of the best at this grade in Yorkshire. From the lowest bolt on the wall climb up on excellent rock and from the fourth bolt trend left to a fine steep finger flake. Up this with some urgency to good holds and a lower-off above the bulge. 4 Swansong 16m F6a+ *** Start 2 metres left of Black Swan and about a metre right of the tree, following a line of resin bolts. Climb onto the wall and up to a layaway giving access to a shallow groove. Move up and left to a ledge, then up the open groove behind and pull out around the bulge to an awkward finish and lower off on the right. 5 Whooper 16m F6b ** A varied climb up the bulging rib just right of the slanting crack, trending left to good holds and ledges at the foot of a vague shallow groove. Climb the groove using an undercut crack to reach the belay.

6 Wing Traverse 17m VS 4c Climb the slanting crack and traverse left across cleaned ledges to a grassy bay. Climb the steep shallow corner above the right-hand side of this. 7 Cygnet Chewer 13m F5+ Start just left of the slanting crack and climb the wall to a ledge. Move right across the top of the crack and climb carefully up, just right of the old stump, to gain the lower off on Cygneture Tune. 8 Cygneture Tune 13m F5+ * Supersedes Cygnet , much of which collapsed in 1984. Climb the wall to the left of the slanting crack via Fixe resin bolts directly to a ledge below the big flake/ramp. Climb this to the top and a lower-off on the right. 9 Swan Hunters 12m F6b+ * The bulge just left of Cygneture Tune leads on good rock and a hard move to the ledge. The wall above is climbed just right of the arete. The lower-off on the suspiciously perched blocks is probably best avoided by moving back left to the finish of Ugly Duckling. 10 The Ugly Duckling 12m F6a * Six metres left of the slanting groove on the left of Swan Buttress is a vague groove and small fingery flake leading to ledges on the right. From the ledges step up left to gain the fine finishing groove in the upper rib. 11 Get Out of Town 12m F6c * Just left of Ugly Duckling and directly behind the large block by the path. A perplexing sequence via poor flakes on the lower wall leads to a ledge. A steep but easier finish up the central groove to undercuts gains the lower off. 12 Swan Lake 12m F6c+ * The centre of the scooped, fragile wall provides a short-lived but fingery crux whilst the finish above a thin flake is also quite testing if attempted direct. Cassin bolts protect.

Dom Sellers on Sector Swans

13 Swans to Steele 12m F6a Start immediately right of Chopping Block and follow four resin bolts to a single spring-clip lower-off. Take care with the rock! 14 Chopping Block 12m F6a+ * A steep wall with pronounced blocky flakes and 3 visible bolts provides the line. Climb the wall just right of the cleaned groove on good finger holds until forced to reach left for a flake in the corner. Move up and then right to more flakes and layback carefully up to a ledge. The short upper wall succumbs to a fingery reach. The lower-off is hidden just over the top - honest. 15 Match Play 12m F5+ * Start from a cleaned ledge and climb the short groove left of Chopping Block. Swing left to more ledges and then straight up the wall to another ledge and pleasant finish on good rock, moving right to the Chopping Block lower-off just over the top. 16 Chip off the Old Block 12m F6a A direct line with interesting moves but some suspect rock. Climb the lower wall to a flake and use this to reach juggy ledges. The lower-off is gained direct or by a stretch from the flake on the right. 17 Practice Putt 12m F6a+ Start directly behind the large Elm tree at a cleaned lower groove . Climb the groove and wall to a step right onto a wobbly ledge then make a difficult move to gain the base of the obvious perched block. Handle it gently and move right to a lower-off. 18 Water Hazard 11m F6a * Start from a high ledge above and just left of the Large Elm tree. Climb a short wall and then carefully up the flake before a tricky move gains good holds above the overlap. Move up on good rock past an often damp handjam and left to easier ground and the lower-off. 19 Harry Limestone 12m F6b+ * Climb ledges up to a left-leading weakness then make a long reach right, over the shattered bulge, to climb a clean and crozzly upper wall past four bolts to a lower off. 20 Henry Apprentice 12m F6a+ * Start as for Harry Limestone, but continue up left via the diagonal crack until it is possible to swing back right onto the upper part of the wall to gain the Harry Limestone Belay. The big leaning flake crack to the left is The Third Man, an old and quite loose trad line which can now be climbed as a clip-up for those who wish. However, be warned that the rock on this route, and on the lower sections of those adjacent to it, is decidedly unstable and possibly unsuitable to new-comers to outdoor sport-climbing. 21 Sun Sessions 14m F6a+ Good step moves but the rock on the lower wall is suspect. Start up the cleaned scoop to gain the wall right of the flake. Move up and across to better rock and a thinner flake crack on the right following it back left to a lower-off. 22 The Third Man 14m F5 Climb an easy trough to a ledge on the left of the impressive but precariously stacked, flake crack. Step into the crack and climb it to a bulge at the top. Pull over the bulge, stepping right to a lower-off. 23 It’s Alright Mama 14m F6a+ Climb the tottering, perched ledges and technical blunt rib just left of The Third Man until forced right at the top to the same belay. Those of a particularly nervous disposition may prefer to use the Third Man’s start!

24 She’s Not Yew 14m F6a Start on a prominent pinnacle below and right of the big Yew Tree. Climb carefully over the lower ledges and up the much better upper wall to a lower-off on the left 25 Cygnet Ring 50m F6b * An entertaining traverse, especially on a busy day, in two pitches from Black Swan Rising to She’s Not Yew taking a belay on the halfway ledge of Ugly Duckling. Take a few long slings to avoid rope drag. Follow the narrow path for about 40 metres to the left, descending a short rocky step until a smaller but clean, ever-dry and compact wall is reached. This has a short Tufa nose at its base and a larger tufa pillar to its left. This is: SECTOR GOLF 1 Out of Bounds 10m F4 The first route on the extreme right of Sector Golf and the easiest sport climb at Giggleswick. Climb up until forced into the base of the corner. Move up and right to a lower-off on the short slab above. 22.01.06 Dave Musgrove, Nigel Baker 2 In the Rough 10m F6b The scoop below the right rib and move left into the hanging corner. Regain the rib and climb it to its top. 3 A Big Slice 15m F6b * A rising diagonal hybrid from the foot of In The Rough to the final moves of Pitch and Putt provides a pleasant but sustained variant once you’ve climbed everything else on this buttress. 15.01.06 Dave Musgrove, Nigel Baker 4 A Good Walk Ruined 10m F6b+ * The wall and hanging, shallow corner to the left of In The Rough. 10.05.05 Mick Johnson, Keith Morgan. 5 Four Iron 10m F6c * Possibly easier than the next route once you know how; the grade is for the on-sight. Climb the steep wall just right of the tufa nose trending slightly left to begin a crucial sequence back right which gives access to excellent rock on the upper wall. Four bolts to a lower off. 6 Par Three 10m F6b+ ** A short but excellent climb. Start from the nose and climb easily to a ledge then follow the line of three bolts above to a lower-off. The crux is now commonly climbed on the left of the bolts, but the original method used a tiny crimp up and right at F6c. 7 Pitch n' Putt 11m F6a+ * Climb the right side of the tufa pillar taking care to avoid tempting loose blocks to the left and follow 4 bolts to the steep flaky groove and a lower off just above. Quite fingery. Using only small holds to the right of the thin vertical seam allegedly provides a blinkered alternative Seems the Same F7a. To the left of the pillar a large overgrown buttress stands forward slightly with a large tree growing from a few metres up. 8 Lost Balls 15m F6a+ * Start below the obvious groove right of Golf Course Crack. Climb easily to a ledge. Tackle the groove above with an interesting finishing move! 1.3.06 Nigel Baker, Dave Musgrove, Mick Johnson

9 Golf Course Crack 16m VS 4c To the left of the tree is an obvious leaning crack. Climb easily up for 5 metres to a ledge. A short loose wall leads into the crack which is climbed with a pull out left to finish. 10 Funny Girl 15m F6a * The wall left of Golf Course Crack is climbed quite easily with help from the flake on the left to a short, but steep and awkward, finish. The tree-filled Downpour Gully lies to the left. 11 The Gift 15m HVS * 5a Just left of the gully is a steep, square-cut corner in the rib. Pull out right from the top of the corner and climb straight up the wall. Quite good when cleaned up. 12 Mettle Would 15m 6b+ Start at the cleaned wall to the right of The Gift. Climb towards the tree, at which point neat moves to the left avoid it’s temptation – or not! The arboreal alternative is clearly much easier 1.3.06 Mick Johnson, Nigel Baker, Dave Musgrove 13 The Green Jacket 15m VS 5a The cracks between Tee Off & The Gift. 14 Tee Off 15m VS 4b To the left is an obvious flake crack which leans to the left. A short wall leads up to the crack which is climbed by layback. To the left of Tee Off is a the impressive ‘Laughter Wall’ One of the best pieces of rock on the crag. SECTOR LAUGHTER 1 Lazy Day 14m E2 * 5c This route climbs the pocketed lower wall just left of Tee Off to a small tree at 8 metres. Climb above the tree for 3 metres before a step right gains a finish up the short groove of Hustler. A direct finish is possible but probably worth E3 if the bolt on Rib Tickler is avoided. 2 Rib Tickler 15m F6c ** The right rib of the prominent groove. Start as for Hustler and Arnold Palmer to climb over the first bulge to the foot of the groove. Step right, around the arete and climb this on its right side until the upper traverse of Hustler is gained and crossed to finish direct past the final bolt. A tough variation is to climb the bulge and wall to the right of the bolts joining Lazy Day and finishing direct – F7a+. 3 The Hustler 18m HVS * * 5b Climb into the groove and up it until it steepens near the top. Traverse a rounded ledge right for 3 metres across the wall to reach a short V-groove. Up this to the top. 4 Arnold Palmer 15m E1 * 5b Essentially a better and direct finish to The Hustler’s main groove. Gain the top via a move left up into a short corner. 5 Heavenly Whispers 14m F6c+ ** The direct line up the wall between Silent Laughter and Arnold Palmer is both technical and reachy but very satisfying. 6 The Hoarse Whisperer 15m F6c+ * Start up Heavenly Whispers to the first good holds and then move up and left to a shallow white groove and then the easier, but still tricky, upper part of the groove on Silent Laughter. Pull up to good flakes. Follow the flakes up and to the left before swinging left to the finishing jugs of Silent Laughter and its lower-off. 05.06.05 Paul Clarke, Andy Watts.

Mick Johnson sampling the winter delights of Titter Ye Not

7 Silent Laughter 15m F7b *** A brilliant climb on perfect rock, taking the shallow groove in the smoothest part of the wall. Gain the groove with difficulty and from the top move left (crux) and make hard, reachy moves from a layaway to gain a fine arching flake. A good finishing jug is hidden over the top just right of the lower-off. 8 Titter Ye Not 15m F6c * Climb the flake in the groove immediately right of Evening Crack, without recourse to resting by bridging into that route. At the top of the flake move up right onto the wall and make a couple of hard, fingery moves to reach the finishing jug and lower-off of Silent Laughter. 9 Evening Crack 17m MVS * 4b Bounding the big wall on its left is a wide rightward-facing crack. This is climbed to a pinnacle from where easier climbing up to the left leads to the top. 10 First Footing 12m F6c+ A short but tricky variant, climbed on New Years Day 2000. Start up Evening Crack but at 5 metres pull around the arete on the left and move up to the good hold and short crack on Best Medicine. Finish up this. 11 The Best Medicine 14m F7a ** The technical wall left of the rib which bounds Evening Crack is climbed to a good hold below a thin crack. Gain ledges above with some further difficulty then scramble over or around blocks to a lower-off on the upper back wall 12 Ten O’Clock Crack 17m VS 4c Climb to the obvious small but loose pinnacle at 6 metres. Gain an awkward ledge above, step right along this and up to finish as for Evening Crack. The route can be finished direct at HVS 5a. 13 The Stand 17m E1 5b Climb to the pinnacle of Ten O’Clock Crack and then gain the sloping ramp on the left which leads into a hanging groove. Climb this to the top or lower-off. 14 Finger of Fun 15m F7a+ ** The fingery technical wall directly below the impending upper groove of The Stand is climbed to a crucial finger-hole by the 2nd bolt. Gaining the sloping ledge above, either right or left, provides the tenuous crux. Finish steeply up the Stand to a lower-off. 15 Never, Never Corner 17m HVS 5a The line of slim, impending corners is climbed until it is possible to pull round the rib on the left where the angle eases. Follow the rib, and climb ledges to finish. 16 The Punch Line 17m F6c ** Climb the steep, technical slab to a tricky sequence to gain and pass the third bolt. Swing right, across Never, Never Corner and pull into the impending upper groove. Climb this using good holds on the left rib and move delicately right at the top to a lower-off. A direct ascent of the top groove is possible but much harder. 17 Comic Strip 15m F6b+ * The leftmost line on Sector Laughter looks easy! Climb the deceptively awkward initial corner and then a fiendishly tricky move past the 3rd bolt to gain a big ledge. The mantel onto this ledge is also perplexing and may require lateral thinking. Move back right to a lower-off. 4.12.05 Dave Musgrove, Nigel Baker

DRUMMER BOY WALL The steep left wall of the descent gully that bounds Sector Laughter 1 Martha Victoria Jubilee 8m F7a The top end of the steep left wall of the descent gully that bounds Sector Laughter. Climb either direct or by an easier variation on the right 22.03.06 Mick Johnson, Keith Morgan, Nigel Baker The name is that of Mick’s Gran. 2 No Holds Barred 9m F6b+ * To the left is a hanging flake groove. Climb this and the wall above to a double bolt lower-off shared with the next route. 26.02.06 Mick Johnson 3 The Drummer Boy 10m F7a./6b+ * A direct ascent of the blunt rib in line with the bolts is hard (but fun). However the weak fingered will sneak around the left using deft footwork at a more reasonable grade. 22.1.06 Nigel (not Ginger) Baker, Dave Musgrove 4 Gully Bulls Travels 15m F6b+ * Starting at the toe of the buttress make a rising traverse avoiding the crux of Drummer Boy. Clip its top bolt and continue to the right-hand lower off. The best route on the wall? 02.03.06 Dave Musgrove, Alan Spurrett, Nigel Baker Just past the gully is one of the most prominent features of the crag – an obvious cave at floor level. An old route Drabbit VS 4c climbed a groove above the cave and Old Corner VD is the bounding feature of the vegetated wall 15 metres left of the Cave. GERRY CAN WALL This is the first of two short walls separated by a vegetated area of steep ground and trees. Immediately above the twin-stemmed fallen tree is a broken ridge with a short vegetated corner to its left 1 Babel 10m F5+ Climb the corner to a grass ledge and then, taking care with several large blocks climb up steeply rightwards but with interesting moves on generally large holds. 23.1.07 Dave Musgrove, Mick Johnson 2 Loggerheads 10m F5 The grooves and corner left of Babel are a little contrived and not very satisfying. 19.2.07 Mick Johnson, Dick Tong 3 Displacement Activity 9m F6a+ * The first clean line on the white walls to the left of the cave. Start above the twin-stemmed fallen tree. Climb ledges to below a thin vertical corner and make a precarious move up to better holds and a good ledge just below the top. 17.12.05 Nigel Baker, Dave Musgrove 4 The Constant Gardener 10m F6a ** The slanting groove line just right of Gerry Can is slightly easier than its sporting neighbour to the right, but more sustained. A good pitch. 17.12.05 Dave Musgrove, Nigel Baker, Pauline Hearne, Keith Morgan, John Hunt 5 Gerry Can 13m VS The broken crack line and flakes leading to a tree on a ledge is worryingly loose and very overgrown. Not currently recommended!

THE GARDEN WALL To the left is an obvious brown corner, a few metres left of Gerry Can, then a short clean wall crossed at half height by a ramp. An area of quick-ticks to amuse the Giggleswick aficionado.

1 Crazy Paver 9m F6a+ * The corner or wall to its left and the steeper and more problematic headwall to a juggy finish. 29.10.06 Nigel Baker, Dave Musgrove 2 Over the Garden Wall 9m F5+ Start just left of the recess and climb up easily onto a huge flake. One awkward, reachy move between good holds is required to pass the last bolt to another juggy finish onto a grassy ledge. 29.10.06 Dave Musgrove, Nigel Baker 3 Atomic Kitten 8m F6a * Three metres left of the recess climb a bulge via two closely spaced resin bolts and then climb the wall to an awkward rock-over back left to gain the lower-off. 24.10.06 Dave Musgrove, Nigel Baker

Alan Spurrett on the Garden Wall 4 Rat Poison 8m F6a Just left of the resin bolts climb the bulge via an easier lower sequence but then climb the smooth headwall leftwards on small holds to a step back right to the Atomic Kitten lower-off. 29.10.06 Mick Johnson, Dave Campbell The obvious left to right ramp system is home to an old trad route The Garden Wall (VD) which originally traversed right across this section of the crag via a series of grass ledges, loose flakes and trees. Recent developments have cleaned up the start but the finish and old exit, somewhere, it is believed, in the vicinity of Gerry Can still looks less than inviting.

5 Taking the Mickey 7m F6a+ * Climb the shallow groove above the start of the ramp to a thin crack and small pocket in the wall above. One difficult pull from the pocket gains the edge of the upper flake and the ledge and lower-off on the left above Mighty Mouse. 29.10.06 Mick Johnson, Dave Campbell 6 Mighty Mouse 7m F6c/+ * The smooth, clean and vertical wall on the left side of the crag is only short but proves very fingery and rather technical with a big reach at the top. 4.12.05 Nigel Baker, Dave Musgrove 7 Minnie 7m F6a+ The short wall and blunt rib to the left of Mighty Mouse has a one testing move involving a long pull from a crimp. An interesting variation starts up Minnie and finishes up Mighty 3.11.06 Nigel Baker, Mick Johnson 8 Buddy Red Cat 11m F5 * A series of short walls and ledges with a committing move to clip the 3rd bolt. The lower-off is high up between 2 old Yew trees. 2.2.07 Mick Johnson, Dick Tong To complete the use of every available rugosity there are also two traverses! 9 Squeak too Soon 13m F6c * An entertaining traverse making the best of the available rock and the bolts of other routes. From the second bolt on Minnie cross the smooth Mighty wall to better holds. Step up onto the ramp and follow it rightwards moving up at the end to the belay of Crazy Paver. 19.11.06 Paul Clarke, Keith Morgan, Nigel Baker, John Hunt 10 Ken’s Cakewalk 20m F6b * A traverse starting up Crazy Paver but from the 3rd boltswing left along the poor break to better holds and the ledge of Atomic Kitten. Continue to the belay of Minnie and an optional extension up to the lower-off of Buddy Red Cat. 18.2.07 Bob Larkin, Ken Suggett After another 50 metres or so, beyond a Damoclean Yew Tree Arch, a more impressive and continuous wall is reached. This is: SECTOR BONHOMIE A popular, quick-drying sector with several long routes. On the right-hand side a short but compact wall unfortunately degenerates at half height into ledges. 1 J(c)B Variant 19m F6b+ The short but tricky wall is climbed until forced left joining José Bové at half height to avoid the grassy ledges. 2 Malheureuse 20m VS 5a An old trad route which is believed to have followed the first shallow groove on this wall with a scrappy finish somewhere right of the Yew Tree. 3 José Bové 18m F6b * A good climb on generally sound rock though the overlap requires care! Follow the second line of bolts and climb to a scoop. Skirt this on good flakes to the left and then straight up to the dubious overlap. Avoid this on the right then move up and left to a tricky finish to gain the lower-off on the left.

A big yew tree three quarters of the way up the crag is a landmark feature for the next few routes. 4 Gave Battle In Vain 18m F6b+ ** A long and direct line. It is on superb rock bypassing the yew tree on the right. The steepening finish adds urgency to the excellent final few moves to a chain lower-off. If you try hard, but fail near the top, the name is more appropriate. Console yourself, lower from the tree and still claim an excellent F6a! 5 Rainbow Wall 20m VS * 5a A good old trad line following the excellent shallow groove decorated with multi-coloured lichens to the Yew Tree. Fight your way through to the top or, more sensibly, lower off from the tree. 6 Swinging the Cat 30m F6b * A fun, rising traverse of the walls to the left. Nowhere desperate but a bit run out in places. Start to the right of Richard of York. Move up and across that route to the shallow groove of Catman Do and up this to a junction with Feline Fun. Follow Prowling Around to a point where it eases and one can swing across to Peripherique. Move across to Fiddlefingers where a nice step left gains the line of Amicale then easily to the lower-off of Remember, Remember 19.3.06 Dave Musgrove, Keith Morgan, Paul Clarke – should have been called Pussy Galore! 7 Richard of York 14m F6a * Climb the bolted wall to the left of the multi-coloured groove, moving right to the tree and a lower-off. Follow the easiest line slightly to the right between the second and third bolts. Direct is possible but harder and not worth the ‘drop’ of York. 8 Catman Do 16m F6a+ * Start left of Richard of York. Up the shallow groove to a junction with Feline Fun. Move right onto the rib then up to a lower-off. Good climbing, and quite long 18.3.06 Nigel Baker, Keith Morgan, John Hunt 9 Feline Fun 16m F6b * The steeper line just to the left, but right of Prowling Around. 17.3.06 Nigel Baker, Keith Morgan Starting below but a few metres left are 2 shorter routes utilising one line of bolts: 10 Prowling Around 13m F6b * A variant on Tiger in the Woods clipping the same bolts but avoiding the original crux by using much better, but hidden, holds 1 metre to the right. Step back left to gain the jug above the overlap. 11 Tiger in the Woods 12m F7a+ * The steep clean wall is fingery and has three 3 bolts. There is a very tricky sequence to cross the overlap direct. The slim groove to the left is the start of Orange Wall. The next route clips bolts to its right but needs to use the lower part of the groove to get started. 12 Peripherique 20m F6b Start up the groove of Orange Wall and then swing right to small holds and a short but quite intense sequence on good rock before ledges and broken ground force a traverse left to join the upper section of Diversion. 13 Orange Wall 22m VS 5a A reasonable trad route that needs pruning occasionally. Climb the slim groove to a small bush and then continue up the wall to ledges. Step right and take the easiest line to the top.

14 Diversion 20m F5+ ** The bolts to the right of the more pronounced flake provide good climbing but with a disproportionately difficult start. Climb this direct with a long reach or, more in keeping with the rest of the climb, take the diversion up the flake for the first couple of metres. The flake line behind and just left of the fallen tree stump is the start of the next climb. 15 Bonhomie 21m HVS ** 5a .The flake and continue more or less directly via a couple of saplings to a square cracked block on the right of the smooth headwall which gives access to the top. A worthwhile and sustained pitch. 16 Pensile Wall 22m E1 * 5b Start up the vertical fissure just left of Bonhomie, and step left to a jagged ledge below a thin left facing flake crack. Climb this and the wall above to a steep step left to an embedded flake in a grassy ramp. Move up the ramp past a block and then back right on magnificent holds to reach the top ledges. 17 Fiddlefingers 21m F6b+ ** A direct line up the left side of the Bonhomie wall. Pick your way up the pocketed wall following 3 bolts directly to the hanging shield, which is surmounted carefully to the 4th bolt. Step right and up into a right facing groove and then contemplate the final (crux) moves to the ledge and double bolt belay. 18 Amical Rivalite 21m F6a+ ** An excellent eliminate on almost perfect rock. Start on the extreme left of the Bonhomie wall clipping the first 2 bolts on Fiddlefingers. Trend up and left from here past three more bolts until a slightly hollow flake gives access to a move right to a double bolt lower-off. Stepping left to ledges at any point reduces the grade. 19 Fire Cracker 15m F6b Tightly squeezed in – the next line of bolts up the flake has a hard move near the top. Nov 2006 Mick Johnson, Nigel Baker 20 Remember, Remember 16m F6c * Start 5 metres left of Amical Revalite up a juggy wall between the two vegetated ramps and climb easily up to a grassy ledge. Mantle onto the narrower ledge above and climb the steep smooth headwall with great difficulty and/or a long reach for a good layaway. Continue steeply on improving holds to the lower-off. 5.11.05 Mick Johnson

THE WILDERNESS WALLS This neglected part of the crag has recently been given a ‘make-over’ and is now easily reached along a developing path. The routes are short but fingery, on generally good walls between crack-lines and dry amazingly quickly after rain. As with the rest of this easy-access crag, they are already very popular. A multi-stemmed tree with a block wedged in its base is reached and one metre left of this is:

1 Penny for the Guy 12m F5+ Start just to the right of a detached flake. Climb the right edge of the steep lower wall until better holds give access to ledges on the left. Up more easily now to the lower-off below a tree. A direct start avoiding the right edge is possible but slightly harder. 1.11.05 Dave Musgrove 2 Gunpowder Plot 14m F5 * Start behind the detached flake and gain a blocky ramp. From the top of the ramp climb the steep wall to a narrow vegetated ledge and an easier headwall above. 5.11.05 Dave Musgrove Ten metres left of Gunpowder Plot and 15 metres left of the multi-stemmed tree, an ivy-covered, 1.5m large triangular boulder leans out from the path. The Maypole starts just above this. 3 The Maypole 19m MVS 4b From the 1.5 metre boulder a steep scoop slants up to the left. Climb the scoop and the flake crack that follows, to a small ledge below the final wall. An airy traverse to the right leads to a tree and easier ground. Not checked recently and looks very vegetated. 4 Sergeant Bilko 10m F6a+ The rib to the left of The Maypole taking care with the large block at half height 25.02.06 Mick Johnson

The next 2 routes utilise the same set of Resin bolts. 5 Get Shorty 8m F6a+ * A steep groove a couple of metres left of The Maypole has a tricky start then good holds. Clip the resin bolts from the right. 12.11.05 Nigel Baker, John Hunt, Keith Morgan, Mick Johnson 6 Little Britain 8m F7a ** The steeper groove and rib just left of the line of Resin Bolts is short but highly technical. 12.11.05 Nigel Baker, Keith Morgan, John Hunt 7 Joker’s Wild 25m F6c * Yet another rising traverse this time with a perplexing and problematic start and a pumpy but easier finish. Climb the initial groove of Little Britain to the sloper on the left and escape leftwards to a big hold on the left rib. Move up and across, much easier now, until the steep ramp of Rambling on my Mind is joined for its strenuous but juggy climax. 21.3.06 Nigel Baker, Keith Morgan, Dave Musgrove, Mick Johnson 8 Just Like That 8m F5 The line two metres left of Little Britain’s groove. 15.11.05 Mick Johnson 9 Red Dwarf 8m F6a * Four metres left of Little Britain. A pleasant climb on good holds following another line of 3 resin bolts trending right to a tricky final move either moving right or left just below the lower-off. 12.11.05 Mick Johnson, John Hunt, Nigel Baker 10 The Little Waster 7m F6b * A short but deceptively sustained little climb on good rock following the vague, shallow groove directly to a lower-off. 9.11.05 Mick Johnson, Dave Musgrove, Keith Morgan 11 Norman Wisdom 16m F6a A long route with a tricky start leading to thin hanging flake. A blocky vegetated ledge above detracts somewhat but the steep finish maintains interest to the end. 22.1.06 Mick Johnson 12 Puckoon 16m F5 ** The blocky, groove past a spike, provides very good climbing despite a little vegetation. 22.1.06 Mick Johnson To the left is a vegetated wall with a cleaner corner above. A gangway crosses this wall from right to left this is Bramble Wall. 13 Rambling on My Mind 18m F6a+ * A rising, right to left line just right of Bramble Wall is long and interesting with a strenuous finish. The normal start keeps right of the first 2 bolts but a technical variation can be made on the left, with one extra bolt. This has a couple of interesting, reachy, moves at 6b+. 21.6.05 Mick Johnson, Keith Morgan (variant Mick Johnson, Dick Tong 2.2.07) 14 Bramble Wall 22m VD Follow the diagonal ledge line, crossing Easy Lovin’ and The Pussy Cat, to a substantial tree, followed by a short wall a little to the left. Overgrown. 15 Walk the Line 12m F6a * Climb a short slab and up though the ramp of Bramble Wall to a neat headwall stepping right at the top to the lower-off of Rambling 25.02.06 Mick Johnson

16 Easy Lovin’ 18m F6b+ A slab to the right of Pussy Cat using holds on the right to an interesting, reachy finish from a ledge. The start can be climbed more directly at F6c if blinkers are worn. 27.6.05 Mick Johnson, Keith Morgan 17 The Pussy Cat 20m VS Start at a groove directly below the clean, white corner 1. 10m 4c Follow the groove with difficulty to a grassy pull-out onto the halfway ledge. 2. 10m 4b Take the corner crack, moving right at the top below a yew. 18 Fallen Heroes 13m F6a+ * The bulging lower wall just left of Pussy Cat is quite tough for this grade and leads to ledges and then a clean and balancy headwall just right of a swathe of Ivy. 13.11.05 Mick Johnson, Keith Morgan, Dave Musgrove Ten metres left of Pussy Cat is a huge Yew tree. 3 bolt lines take the wall to its right 19 Slip Road 12m F6a * The right-hand rib of the scoop has a smooth lower-wall with an obvious one–finger pocket. F6c if the lower wall is taken direct. Most however, will reach further right to good layaways. A short finishing groove is steep and awkward but soon over. 18.11.05 Mick Johnson, Keith Morgan (Keith led the direct variation) 20 Freeway 16m F6b ** A clean scoop, about 5 metres right of the huge yew tree leads pleasantly to a ledge. A vague rid leads steeply to a short corner just to the left of the overhang. Climb out to a lower-off on the ledges. 11.8.05 Mick Johnson, Dave Musgrove (New finish added on the 18.11.05) 21 Road Block 16m F6b+ ** Another good, long pitch. The left hand line leads to the same belay as Freeway with a dynamic reach near the top.. 17.11.05 Mick Johnson, Dick Tong, Dave Musgrove 22 Yew’ll be Lucky 15m F5+ From just left of the large yew, climb a cracked wall to a ledge then a short wall above. 25.6.05 Mick Johnson 23 Real Gone 15m F6b * A pocketed wall left of Yew’ll be Lucky to the same ledge and finish. 25.6.05 Mick Johnson 24 Chance Encounter 16m F6b * Start as for Real Gone and from the 2nd bolt trend left with difficulty but on excellent rock to climb the steep wall above just left of the old tree stump. 24.10.06 Bob Larkin A few metres to the left the main feature is Walrus Corner in the upper part of the crag. 25 The Boar’s Head 15m MVS 4b Start to the right of Walrus Corner. Up to a grassy ledge and then trend right up the steep wall to a dead yew tree stump and another ledge. Take the easiest exit up above. Over grown. 26 Tusk 12m F6b ** A shallow open groove just left of The Boar’s Head. Now fully bolted giving interesting technical moves. Better than it looks.

27 Salus 12m F6c * A short but technical pitch up the wall and over the bulge between Walrus Corner and Tusk, either by a pull over the roof or by a step left. 5.11.05 John Hunt 28 Walrus Corner 15m VS 4c Start 2 metres right of the tree at a flake. The obvious large corner is gained via a thin crack which leads to the right hand side of the corner’s slabby base. Climb delicately up the back of the corner and pull out right. 29 Uptown Girl 14m F6b+ * Start just left of the lower crack on Walrus Corner and climb the wall with a long reach over the initial bulge. Step right across the upper corner onto the blunt rib and join the final moves of Salus. 24.10.06 Nigel Baker, Dave Musgrove 30 Suburban Sprawl 14m F6b * The bolt line just left has a hard move to gain the half height ledge. The finish is up the left arête of Walrus Corner. 19.11.05 Dave Musgrove, Mick Johnson, Keith Morgan 31 Home Economics .20m F6b+ * A diagonal link. Start up Suburban Sprawl for 2 bolts. Step right and over a slight bulge as for Uptown Girl. Step down and cross Salus and then back up to the right to eventually finish on Chance Encounter. 29.10.06 John Hunt, Keith Morgan, Paul Clarke 32 City Limits 15m E2 ** 5b A good solid climb, worth seeking out. Climb the clean slab rightwards then back to the left to gain better holds. Step up to the right and traverse to the corner on the left to finish. 33 Nutbush 14m F6a+ * The line of bolts on the left of the slab direct. Pull up a slight bulge and a rib to the belay. Oct 06 Bob Larkin Going to the left below a gully one will find another wall with nine bolt lines. The trad routes are not recommended. Anchor Buttress 34 Adjusted Hours 13m F6a+ * The right arête of the steep wall bounding the gully. 12.6.06 Nigel Baker, Mick Johnson 35 Tomertil 15m F6b+ * The clean wall of good rock left of the arête bounding the gully can be climbed direct or via an excursion to the right. Both are very good value! May 05 Glyn Edwards, Colin Binks 36 Two for One 12m F5+/6a * A curving line sticking to the left of the 3rd line of bolts to the Tomertil lower-off is pleasant but reasonably straightforward. Keeping generally to the right of the bolts is harder, steeper but more satisfying (F6a). 14.1.07 Bob Larkin, Dave Rogers (DR led the right-hand variant). 37 Bonanza 10m F5 * Climb the awkward low bulge just right of the Anchor and trend more easily up right to a high second bolt. Continue direct to the lower-off all on excellent rock. 14.1.07 Bob Larkin, Dave Rogers (Climbed first on trad gear then bolted)

38 Rawhide 10m F5 * A delightful modern version of the old trad route The Anchor but without its rambling finish. Climb the crisp clean wall past 3 bolts to a lower-off in common with Bonanza. 14.1.07 Dave Rogers, Bob Larkin (Climbed first on trad gear then bolted) 39 The Anchor 18m HVS 5b Two metres right of a multi-stemmed tree is a steep, blind corner which rises from a glacis 1.5 metres from the ground. Climb the corner, hard to start, and the thin crack above to the yew tree at 9 metres. Up to a tree on the right then easier above. 40 Low Stern 15m F6b+ * The arresting arête left of The Anchor is hard to start direct but the upper wall is easier May 05 Glyn Edwards, Colin Binks 41 Wavering Wall 19m VS 1. 10m 5a Left of the tree is a flake pedestal rising from a glacis. Climb from this direct to a dead-looking yew, traverse right for two moves to the Anchor belay (yew tree). 2. 9m 4c Move onto the wall on the left and up to a good tree runner. Pull into a niche and climb to the top 42 Yorkshire Brambler 15m F6b * Start up the mini-arête left of Wavering Wall’s pedestal and continue with one very high step and some nice climbing to a lower-off. May 05 Glyn Edwards, Colin Binks 43 Quivering Timber 18m HVS 1. 9m 5a From the right hand end of the sloping ledge at 3 metres ascend a steep crack, passing a sapling, to a small grass ledge with tree belay. 2. 9m 4c Up to the right a little and pull over a small overhang. Steep but easier rock leads to an area of ledges. 44 Midnight Brambler 15m F6c ** Takes the left end of the wall to a flake crack and underclings, with a crux move just above. It is slightly easier to the right. May 05 Glyn Edwards, Colin Binks 45 Wicked Grin 16m F6a+ A disappointing left-hand start to Midnight Brambler joining it for the upper third after the crux. 15.1.06 Mick Johnson, Nigel Baker 46 One Hundred and Twenty-One Not Out 40m F6a+* A girdle traverse of this buttress starting up Wicked Grin. From the 5th bolt traverse right and down slightly taking the easiest line below the central yew trees eventually moving across and back up to the lower-off above Adjusted Hours. The existing bolts provide sufficient protection but a couple of extra slings on the two yew trees make it safer still. 2.2.07 Bob Larkin, Gil Peel. 47 Weather Beaten 12m F6a+ The right side of the hanging rib into a chimney/crack at the top. 9.3.07 Mick Johnson, Dick Tong 48 Ground Up 12m F5+ The left side of the hanging rib may be a bit harder if blinkers are worn and big holds out left are avoided. 9.3.07 Mick Johnson, Dick Tong 49 Corner of Thorns 18m VD Below and just right of the large yew is an overgrown fist-wide crack facing right. Easy-angled rock leads to the corner which is climbed to the yew and an easy corner.

50 Ash Tree Scoop 15m S Ascend to the tree protruding from the rock at 3 metres, then pull into the scoop directly above, hopelessly vegetated. An awkward move gains a glacis up to the left and grassy climbing leads to the top. 51 Chris Nick Direct 14m F6a Climb the shallow scoop left of the big tree at 3 metres and continue direct over the bulge to ledges and a lower-off. 12.3.07 Mick Johnson, Dave Musgrove 52 Chris-Nick 15m MVS 4b Climb to the tree as for Ash Tree Scoop, move leftwards across a slab to a niche. A steep pull-out right leads to easy ground. 53 Comic Relief 14m F6a * A few metres left of the big tree at 3 metres is a clean white wall. Climb the right-hand line on this wall using the slim pillar below the overlap if necessary, but with care. 12.3.07 Dave Musgrove, Mick Johnson 54 Suspend-Eid 15m F6b * The left side of the clean white wall is harder and more interesting once above the overlap.11.01.06 Mick Johnson, Nigel Baker SECTOR LIMELIGHT Due to the developing path below the crag this buttress can now be quite easily reached along the base, dropping down then climbing up to below Limelight. To get there from above; when approaching the first climbs on the High Level Crag a dry-stone wall can be seen descending diagonally down the hillside. The lower end of the diagonal wall terminates at the top of a buttress on which are the next routes described. To reach the base of this buttress from above a rocky ‘staircase’ to its right (looking down) can be negotiated via a faint path. The routes on this section are described from Left to Right 1 Wall Minor 10m VS * 4c Start at the left hand side of the buttress behind a multi-stemmed tree. Climb pleasantly up the wall rightwards to a tree at 6 metres. Finish up easy ground. 2 Gael 12m HVS 5a A shallow groove 2 metres left of Blackout is essentially a direct on Wall Minor. 3 Blackout 11m HVS * 5a The first deep corner on the left is taken direct. 4 Moseley Shoals 11m F7a+ The bulging arete just right of Blackout joining the next route at its last bolt. It provides a pumpy and painful variant. (Bolts currently in need of replacing). 5 Out Of The Limelight 11m F7a+ *** Well worth seeking out – the hardest and best route hereabouts and on very good rock. The centre of the steep bulging wall between Blackout and Flake-out is climbed powerfully past 4 bolt runners to a tricky finish. 6 Flake Out 15m HVS * 5b At the right-hand side of the bulging wall is a hanging groove. Access the groove and pull out right, continuing further right to finish. 7 Underhand Arete 11m F6c * The rib to the right of Flake Out is climbed, generally to the left of the line of bolts, with a difficult blind move up right from the undercut. A good route but everyone who does it wonders why this was only given 6b+. If climbed direct without resorting to The Thin Blue Line it is harder.

8 The Thin Blue Line 11m F6a * Climb the deceptively innocuous groove immediately to the right of Underhand Arete clipping most of the same bolts from the right. To the right is a sycamore growing from the rock. 9 Ivy Groove 15m VS 4c A steep, dirty climb with little merit. Step left from the sycamore and climb a thin crack in the right hand bounding rib of a scoop. Grassy finish. 10 Sycamore Corner 12m VD The prominent overgrown corner above the sycamore. STONE COLD BUTTRESS A recent, small but worthwhile find. All the new routes are on excellent rock. Approach from the Buckhaw Brow lay-by as for the High Level Crag. Follow that approach, cross the first stiled wall and, before reaching the second stiled wall, contour down towards the trees. The crag is the first buttress in the trees above the old A65. Please don’t approach by walking along the road and ascending as this would involve crossing a fence/wall. To approach from the Low Level Crag it is easiest to climb one of the gullies and approach along the top. This area is the home of 4 old trad routes that are mentioned in the guide. On the right side of the wall is an obvious VS corner out of which grows a tangle of tree roots.

1 Deus Ex Machina 14m 6b+ ** The continually interesting rising traverse starting from the foot of the corner and finishing at the last bolt on Under Pressure then to it's belay. 25.02.06 Nigel Baker, Keith Morgan

2 Stone Cold Crazy 10m F6c ** Worth seeking out. The bolt line up the right side of wall and left of the corner. A steep undercut start gains a good hole. Follow the steep wall stepping left at one point then moving to the right with satisfyingly intricate moves to a lower off 26.01.06 Nigel Baker, Alan Spurrett 3 Mi Vida Loca 10m F6c+ ** Just left the wall leads to a shallow groove. Tackle the bulge above to gain easier ground and the lower-off shared with Bella Calcio. Upgraded from F6b+ by popular demand. 26.02.06 Paul Clarke, Keith Morgan. 4 Bella Calcio 10m F6b ** A short wall leads to the excellent smooth groove. Thoughtful moves and hidden holds get one through the bulge. Above this good holds lead around to the lower off. Easier than it first appears! 01.02.06 Mick Johnson, Keith Morgan, Nigel Baker. 5 Under Pressure 10m F5+/6a * At this grade the left-hand line makes good use of the groove to the left of Bella Calcio. An independent lower off is in the small corner above. A direct variant climbs the line of the bolts and then moves rightwards to gain the belay of Bella Calcio (F6c+ ish) 01.02.06 Nigel Baker, Mick Johnson, Keith Morgan. Variant 20.04.06 Paul Clarke. 6 DDD 15m F6b+ A counter diagonal from bottom left to top right using existing bolts really needs a finish and independent belay. 7.7.06 Dick Tong, Richard Sanderson To the left are some short and rather vegetated cracks that are thought are the lines of three more old trad routes all of which are mentioned in the Yorkshire Limestone guide. THE U BEND - High Level Crag - NGR 801 658 1 Ducksqueezer’s Route 7m F4+ * A very small overhung buttress of perfect rock at the head of a dry valley. This lies above the path to The High Level Crag between the first and second stiled wall and at a similar level to, The G Spot. Enter and climb the overhanging scoops to finish up the short wall. 3 glue-ins to a double-bolt lower off. 13.08.05 Stuart Halford, Eilish Halford

Gigg. South Sport List North & South (Not all routes included)

9a+

Violent New Breed***

8a+

Militia**

7b+

Harry Tuttle, Heating Engineer*

7b

Silent Laughter ***

7a+

Out Of The Limelight **

Moseley Shoals

Finger Of Fun **

Tiger In The Woods *

7a

The Best Medicine **

Little Britain **

Wet Beaver

Drummer Boy(Direct) *

6c+

The Hoarse Whisperer *

Heavenly Whispers **

Mighty Mouse *

Swan Lake *

6c

Rib Tickler **

Midnight Brambler **

Salus **

Get Out Of Town *

Stone Cold Crazy ***

The Punch Line **

First Footing *

Titter Ye Not *

Easy Lovin’(Direct) *

Four Iron *

Remember, Remember *

Comic Strip *

Underhand Arete *

6b+

Low Stern *

Harry Limestone *

Gave Battle In Vain **

Suburban Sprawl *

Par Three **

Road Block *

Drummer Boy(Devious) *

Fiddlefingers **

Easy Lovin’ *

J (C) B Variant

Swan Hunters *

A Good Walk Ruined *

6b

Tomertil

Yorkshire Brambler *

Mutant Sunshine *

Black Swan Rising ***

Whooper **

Freeway *

Cygnet Ring *

Prowling Around *

Jose Bove *

Real Gone *

Little Waster *

Peripherique

Tusk **

Suspend-Eid

The Big Slice **

In The Rough

6a+

Bella Calcio **

Rambling On My Mind *

Chopping Block *

Displacement Activity *

The Mute Swan ***

Fallen Heroes *

Pitch n’ Putt *

Henry Apprentice

Wicked Grin

Swansong **

Practice Putt

Norman Wisdom

It’s Alright Mama

Amical Rivalite **

Dick Tong on Mutant Sunshine F6b

6a

Adjusted Hours *

Chip Off The Old Block

The Constant Gardener *

Swans To Steele

The Ugly Duckling *

Water Hazard *

Thin Blue Line

Richard Of York *

Red Dwarf *

Sun Sessions

V+

Under Pressure **

Cygnet Chewer

Match Play

Cygneture Tune *

Funny Girl *

Diversion **

Yew’ll Be Lucky

She’s Not Yew *

V

Puckoon **

Penny For The Guy *

The Third Man

Gunpowder Plot *

Just Like That

IV

Ducksqeezers Route *

Out Of Bounds