a history of the human occupation of the whakakaiwhara block 1996

A HISTORY OF THE HUMAN

OCCUPATION OF THE

WHAKAKAIWHARA BLOCK

Compiled by G.J Murdoch

Historian, ARC Environment

For the ARC Regional Parks Service

1996

(Please note that this plan has been superseded by the

Auckland Regional Parks Management Plan 2002)

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A HISTORYOF THE

HUMAN OCCUPATIONOF THE

WHAKAKAIWHARA BLOCK

COMPILED BY GJ. MURDOCHmSTORIAN, ARC ENVIRONMENT

FOR THE ARC REGIONAL PARKS SERVICE

SEPTEMBER 1996

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INTRODUCTION AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

This history has been compiled by Graeme Murdoch a historian employed by the ARCEnvironment Division. It has been prepared at the request of the ARC Regional ParksService in conjunction with the development of a Management Plan for the new, as yetformally unnamed regional park located on the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula. Everyattempt has been made to honour the long associations that both Ngai Tai and the Duderfamily hold with the land. This^document is not however a definitive history of thehuman occupation of the land. Rather it has been written as a resource document for usein the interpretation of the history of the Park. This study, while being focused on thehistory of the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula and what is now the new regional park, is alsoconcerned with history of the Whakakaiwhara Block with which the parkland isinextricably linked.

Representatives of Ngai Tai the traditional occupants of the Whakakaiwhara Block havebeen consulted in the preparation of this history. The input of Mrs. R. N. Zister C.B.E.the oldest living member of the Ngai Tai Iwi into this historical account is honoured andacknowledged. This kaumatua has provided the author with treasured informationrelating to the placenames and traditions of the Umupuia - Whakakaiwhara area on anumber of occasions over the last two decades. Barney Kirkwood a kaumatua of NgaiTai, and representative of the Huakina Development Trust, is thanked for his input into,and approval of this study. Te Warena Taua of Ngai Tai, and Chairman of the Ngai Taiki Tamaki Tribal Trust has also been consulted in the development of this history. Hisinput into the draft of this document is acknowledged, and he is particularly thanked forhis permission to use material previously published by him on the history of Ngai Tai.

Messrs John Lidgard, Duthie Lidgard, and Rex Bailey are thanked for providinginformation relating to the early yachting associations with the Wairoa River. HaroldKidd is also thanked for providing information on this subject, and in particular on thehistory of the yachts 'Malua' and the 'Lillian'. Marianne Philson is thanked for hercomments on the draft document and for giving her permission for the use of materialfrom her outstanding history - The Duder Family in New Zealand.' Mr. C.F. FredDuder of 'Waitiro', Clevedon is particularly thanked for providing a great deal ofinformation on the history of the Duder family's past and ongoing associations with theWhakakaiwhara Block.

Ian and Mary Duder are especially thanked for the warm hospitality they have extendedto the author at their historic homestead 'Rozel'. Ian Duder has played a central role inensuring that the Duder family's associations with the Whakakaiwhara Block have beenaccurately recorded. He is particularly thanked for his ongoing input into all stages ofthe production of this history and for allowing access to, and the use of, family archivesand photographic material.

Graeme Murdoch September 1996

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A HISTORY OF THE HUMAN OCCUPATION OFTHE WHAKAKAIWHARA BLOCK

The newly acquired Regional Park on the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula has a rich andintricate human history that extends back for a millenium. The history of the property isa microcosm of the history of the region and in fact the whole nation. It is nevertheless aunique and special history as it primarily concerns the relationship of one Iwi - Ngai Tai,and one European family - the Duders, with the land. The history of the WhakakaiwharaPeninsula is reflected in many ways including: oral and written traditions and memories,place names, the modification of the area's natural resources, and the archaeological andhistoric site record. The property has its own unique history of development, however itcannot be seen in isolation. The history of the human occupation of the WhakakaiwharaPeninsula must be viewed in its wider geographical and historical context. This history isinextricably linked with the history of Ngai Tai as a tribe and with the extended Duderfamily; as well as with the history of the surrounding area and the wider district.

The 'Tangata Whenua' of the Whakakaiwhara Block and its surrounds are the Iwi knownas 'Ngai Tai' who occupied the land for twenty generations. They have specific ancestrallinks with the area that extend back approximately 650 years and they still maintain anancestral marae at nearby Umupuia. The long Ngai Tai occupation of the land isreflected in part in the archaeological sites located on the Peninsula. It is however more .richly outlined in the written and oral traditions of the tribe, and in the mosaic oftraditional placenames that overlay the land. These placenames, many of which are nolonger in common usage, reflect the long Ngai Tai occupation of the land, its naturalresources and their usage.

'Ngai Tai', also known as 'Ngati Tai' has its specific origins as a distinct tribal group inthe arrival of the Tainui canoe in the area approximately 650 years ago. The traditions ofthe tribe do however note that the area was already settled when the Tainui arrived. Theearliest known human inhabitants of the district of which the Whakakaiwhara Block ispart were the Turehu' or literally those who 'arose from the earth'. The best known ofthese was a woman known as Hinerangi. She is associated with a number of Ngai Taitraditions and now stands at the eastern end of Maraetai Beach in the form of a rockknown as 'Ohinerangi'. Another important ancestor of Ngai Tai who was resident onthis coastline was Manawatere. As recalled by Anaru Makiwhara the Ngai Tai rangatiraof Umupuia, this ancestor came from Hawaiki or the Pacific homeland. However "he didnot come in a canoe, he glided over the ripples of the waves." (IPS Vol.30) From thisillustrious ancestor came the local placename 'O-mana', and the name of the ancientpohutukawa at Cockle Bay, 'Te Tuhi a Manawatere'.

In the fourteenth century the famous ancestral voyaging canoe Tainui arrived on theeastern shores of the Hauraki Gulf. After spending some time at Waihihi (WaharauRegional Park), the canoe travelled up the coast seeking shelter from an easterly storm or'marangai'. The Tainui ultimately entered Te Wairoa (the Wairoa River) and foundshelter from the storm by anchoring in the lee of the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula. The

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shelter from the storm by anchoring in the lee of the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula. Theplace where the canoe was moored was remembered in local tradition as Te Tauranga oTainui' or 'the anchorage of Tainui'. The crew of the Tainui then went ashore at thePoint and ate a meal harvested from the fruits of the luxuriant coastal forest that thenclothed the land. From this action came the traditional place name for the Point, and infact the whole Peninsula. It was named 'Whaka-kai-whara' after the act of eating the'whara' or edible bracts of the kiekie vine.

After riding out the storm and reprovisioning at Whakakaiwhara the Tainui then travelledup the coast to Turanga just west of Maraetai, and then on to the Waitemata Harbour.Before the canoe departed from Whakakaiwhara one of the crew had however left behinda 'tohu' to mark the visit. This was recalled, in 1867 by the Reverend James Preece aCMS missionary who was active throughout the Hauraki area in the early nineteenthcentury. In reference to Whakakaiwhara he noted that, 'Tane (Tane whakatia), one ofthe chiefs on board, planted a karaka berry there. He planted it they say in a rock, and itstill exists." (Weekly News Supplement March 30 1867 :24) This berry, which wasplanted near the Point, grew into a tree which was known as 'Huna a Tane', or the 'treeof Tane1. This actual tree no longer exists, although its descendants still grow asmagnificent specimens in the coastal forest remnants on the Peninsula.

When the Tainui canoe reached the Waitemata some of the crew settled in the district.Among them were Te Keteanataua and his son Taihaua who settled at Taurere near themouth of the Tamaki River. They also included Rakataura and Taikehu who settled for atime on the shores of the Manukau Harbour. In time the descendants of these illustriousTainui ancestors came to occupy the coastline between Tawhitokino and Matakana, aswell as the islands of the Hauraki Gulf. In time they built kainga, or villages, and pa onthe shores of the Wairoa River including on the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula. Theybecame known as 'Ngati Tai', a tribal name which has a number of origins. "It is saidby the tribe as originating firstly from their ancestral canoe Tainui. Secondly, the nameis related to a specific ancestor Tainui (who descended from Taihaua). From Tainuidescended Taimanawaiti who gave the name to those members of the tribe who occupiedthe inner islands of the Hauraki Gulf." (Taua 199.1: 6)

The Ngati Tai people who occupied the area between the Tamaki and Wairoa Rivers andtheir relatives who occupied the eastern shores of the Manukau were also the descendantsof the Tainui ancestor Taikehu. They occupied the area in large numbers as is illustratedby the following whakatauki or proverbial saying-

'Nga waka o Taikehu, me he kahui kataha kapi tai''the canoes of Taikehu like unto a shoal of herrings filling the sea'.

Ngati Tai were part of the wider Tainui tribal grouping known as 'Ngaoho' and of 'NgatiPou' who came to occupy the southern edge of the region. From Ngati Tai and NgatiPou came Te Waiohua' the tribal grouping which unified all of the people of Tainuidescent who occupied the region. The specific Waiohua subtribal groups who occupiedthe Wairoa area were 'Ngati Kohua' and 'Te Uri o Te Ao'. As Hori Te Whetuki the

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leading rangatira of Ngai Tai in the raid nineteenth century stated - "We were all onepeople formerly Ngati Tai, Ngati Pou, Ngati Kohua." (NLC Hauraki 6: 291)

Those of Ngati Tai who occupied the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula and the surrounding areaclaimed their mana over the land through descent from Tamakiteao the eponymousancestor of Te Uri o Te Ao'. From Tamakiteao and his wife Te Kuranui descended TeWhatatau the rangatira who held sway over all of the Wairoa - Maraetai area in theseventeenth century. He occupied both Whakakaiwhara Pa and Te Oue Pa locatedseveral kilometres to the south. It was in his time that the tribal name 'Ngai Tai'emerged as a result of an event that is famous in the history of the tribe. It was TeHekenga o Nga Tuatoru' or 'the migration of the three'.

This event, which took place about twelve generations ago, concerned the migration by agroup of people of Tainui descent from Torere in the Bay of Plenty to the Wairoa area.They were, and are still known as 'Ngai Tai'. Because of difficulties at Torere, therangatira Tamatea Toki Nui sent his three grand daughters and others of his Iwi to seek amore peaceful life among their Tainui relatives in the Hauraki area. These three women,Te Raukohekohe, Motukitawhiti and Te Kawenga, travelled north to Papaaroha nearCoromandel. On hearing of the arrival of these illustrious visitors Te Whatatau left theWairoa area and travelled across the Gulf with his wife Kaweau to welcome them onbehalf of his Iwi. After being humiliated by the actions of his wife, Te Whatatau

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abandoned her at Kikowhakarere. He then returned with 'nga tuatoru', or the threevisiting women, and their party to his home at Umupuia. Te Whatatau married TeRaukohekohe and Motukitawhiti, while Te Kawenga married another Waiohua rangatiraTe Whiringa.

Te Whatatau and his wives lived at Umupuia and occupied the pa at WhakakaiwharaPoint among other places. The other relatives of these women were given a small pieceof land on which to live. (Riria Te Whetuki, NLC Auckland 4: 89) This piece of landwas Te Kuiti which is the area surrounding the Duder homestead 'Rozel'. From the timeof the marriage of Te Whatatau to these two women, "the broader tribal name of 'NgaiTai' has been retained. However the people who lived between the Wairoa and TamakiRiver also used the name 'Ngati Te Raukohekohe'. This name came fromTe Raukohekohe, the ancestress whose marriage to Te Whatatau cemented the unionbetween the two related tribal groups". (Taua 1991: 8)

Te Wana the son of Te Whatatau and Te Raukohekohe became the leader of Ngai Taiand Te Uri o Te Ao subsequent to his father's death. He was a renowned warrior and hecemented the Ngai Tai control of the area when he conquered 'Te Ngungukauri' the localhapu of Ngati Kohua who controlled the high country to the west and north. Te Wanalived throughout the wider district, including Tamaki, and even occupied the islands ofthe Hauraki Gulf on a seasonal basis. His main homes were however the fortified pa ofTe Oue and Whakakaiwhara at the mouth of the Wairoa River.

Ngai Tai traversed their tribal domain, including the inner islands of the Hauraki Gulf, ina seasonal cycle of harvesting , gathering and fishing. In the Wairoa River valley theymaintained kainga at Otau and Tuawa near present day Clevedon, at Tararua near themouth of the Rautawhiti Stream; and at Takatekauere, Te Totara and Pehuwai on thewestern side of the River. In the vicinity of the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula there weresettlements at Mawherawhera, Te Kuiti and Umupuia. Other settlements were alsomaintained at Pohaturoa near Maraetai, and at many places along the coastline to 'TeWai o Taikehu' (the Tamaki River).

In Ngai Tai tradition Whakakaiwhara Pa and nearby Te Oue Pa are identified as beingthe main homes of their leading rangatira, and as being the focal points of the Ngai Taioccupation of the wider district. This would appear to be supported by archaeologicalevidence. Te Oue, the pa on the south eastern edge of the Whakakaiwhara Block was themain residence of Te Wana. (NLC Auckland 4: 106) The distinctive features of thisextensive site are its lack of visible kumara storage pits and the existence of massivemiddens containing a wide variety of shellfish and fishbones. (Harsant 1981) It wouldappear that Te Oue was the focal point for major shellfish gathering operationsundertaken by the wider subtribal groups of Ngai Tai, and that it served as a majordefensive site for the tribe.

Whakakaiwhara Pa was occupied in conjunction with Te Oue Pa, although it is muchsmaller and would appear to have been less important as a defensive structure. It wouldseem to have fulfilled a different function, and to have been important for a wider

WHAKAKAIWHARA PA

KEY

Sfa prfrje

Survey mark

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steep slope to sea edge

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Terrace

Drawn 20-8-79 H.HILTON

Method. Iheoitntrle. lope. compass

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number of traditional, geographic and practical reasons. Firstly it was the site whereTaihaua, Taikehu, and the other ancestors of Ngai Tai had landed from the Tainui canoeand established their mana over the land. The pa was also of major strategic importanceas it commanded a view over the entire Hauraki Gulf and controlled the entrance to theregion's largest inland waterway, the Wairoa River. In this regard it also defended therich natural resources of this estuary and the shark fishing ground located at its entrance.

The eighteen pits located within the pa also indicate that it was also an important foodstorage site. It is thought that there would have been several large cultivations on thePeninsula in pre European times, although surface evidence of this has been largelyobscured as a result of the ploughing and discing undertaken over the last century,(pers.comm. I. Lawlor 1996) One highly modified example of one of these hillsidegardens remains above Waiapu (Sandy Bay). Most of the smaller occupation sites on thePeninsula appear to have been temporary sites associated with the gardens or with otherseasonal resource gathering.

The earliest survey map of the Peninsula made in c. 1845 indicates that the naturalvegetation on the Peninsula and the adjoining flats had been extensively modified bycultivation and the fire associated with it. Undoubtedly the staple food source provide bythe aruhe or bracken fem would have been harvested from the old cultivations. Thestream valleys on the Peninsula, and the swamplands on its fringes would have alsoprovided a rich natural resource. The stream margins and areas such as Waipokaia (DuckBay) have been used for the cultivation of taro (Colocasia antiquorum) and harvested forbuilding and weaving materials such as raupo (Typha orientalis), kuta (Scirpus lacustris)and harakeke or flax (Phormium tenax). The swamp would also have provided dyes,tuna, or eels, and wildfowl such as ducks and pukeko.

The forest remnants contained in The Big Bush' behind Duck Bay, and at the head of'Second Gully' provide an excellent example of the rich resources that would have beenavailable to Ngai Tai. The coastal forest would have provided a wide variety of foods,medicines and building materials. Groves of karaka (Corynocarpus laevigatus) providedfruit which was processed in autumn to provide a supplementary food source duringwinter. Berries from trees such as kahikatea (Dacrycarpus dacrydioides), puriri (Vitexlucens), taraire (Beilschmieda tarairi) and mahoe (Melicytus ramiflorus) were gatheredfor food. This was also the case with whara (flowering bracts) and ureure (fruit) of thekiekie vine (Freycinetia baueriana) which had given the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula itsname.

The fleshy stems of the ti or cabbage tree (Cordyline australis), nikau (Rhopalostylissapida) and various tree ferns were all eaten. The nikau was also used as a thatchingmaterial, as was a variety of the cabbage tree known as ti whanake. A locality near the'Yellow Rocks' on the northern side of the Peninsula was named *Te Whanake' after thisvaluable tree. Inland of Sandy Bay there was also an occupation site known as 'WhareWhanake' which would indicate that this tree was also used in house construction. Thefruiting trees of the coastal forest and flowering trees such as pohutukawa (Metrosiderosexcelsa), kowhai (Sophora microphylla), and rewarewa (Knightia excelsa) would have

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MAORI PLACENAMES - TE WAIROA

Maraetai Mission

Te Pono

MatanihoTe|Ruangaingai\

WairaniTokarau -.

Takang* Puka.e

Mawherawhera

Te RautawhitiTakatekauere

UrungahauhauTe Ruato •

hTararuatf*

Hukerte^ai

hotakah

Copyright G. Murdoch 1996

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attracted large numbers of birds such as kereru, tui and kaka which would have beentrapped and speared for food. Timber trees such as kauri (Agathis australis) and totara(Podocarpus totara) were worked in the area both for building purposes and theconstruction of canoes, as is indicated by the number of stone adzes found in the area.

The coastal environment surrounding the Peninsula also contained bountiful seafoodresources. As noted earlier, the shellfish gathering activities of Ngai Tai were focused onTe Oue Pa. Shellfish gathering was also however a significant activity on theWhakakaiwhara Peninsula. This is evidenced by the shell middens which are to be foundaround the pa itself, and on both the northern and southern coastlines of the Peninsula.No detailed scientific analysis of these shell middens has been undertaken to date.Archaeological surface evidence indicates however that shellfish gathering was aseasonal activity carried out at localities such'as Te Whanake and Tokamai on the rockysection of the northern coastline, and in the sandy bay known as Waiapu (Sandy Bay).Te Wharau (Malua Bay) on the southern coastline is named after a 'temporary shelter',and archaeological surface evidence indicates that it was also a seasonal shellfishgathering site. A wide variety of shellfish are to be found in these middens including:cockle, pipi, mussel, scallops, oysters, whelks and topshells.

The largest concentration of shell midden on the Peninsula is found in the vicinity ofWhakakaiwhara Pa itself. In local tradition the Point is however particularly associatedwith shark fishing. Even after the sale of the Whakakaiwhara Block to Thomas Duder in1866 Ngai Tai continued to harvest seafood from around its shores. Each summer theywent to the Point to catch and 'pawhara* (split and dry) vast quantities of the pioke sharkwhich schooled around the Wairoa River mouth at that time of year. This activitycontinued down over the years until around 1940, by which time most of the tribe hadmigrated to urban Auckland (pers.comm Ian and Fred Duder 1996). Ian Duder recallsthat the sharks would be landed at the Point, cut into strips and dried in the branches ofthe huge pohutukawa growing below the Pa. The dried shark would then be collected byboat and taken back to Umupuia for distribution. Large quantities were packed intokerosine cases (with wild mint added to lessen the smell) to be railed to relatives in theWaikato. (Ibid.)

Ngai Tai followed their traditional cycle of resource gathering with little change over thegenerations until Captain James Cook visited the Hauraki Gulf in late 1769. In thisperiod the grandchildren of Te Wana were in secure occupation of their ancestral kaingaand pa in the area, including Whakakaiwhara, under the leadership of rangatira such asTe Whiu, Pakihau and Te Ngakp. They lived in peace with the related sub tribal groupsof the Waiohua confederation who occupied the land to the west and south west. NgaiTai also enjoyed peaceful relations with the tribal groups of the Marutuahu confederationwho occupied the southern and eastern Hauraki Gulf. The reason was that they sharedboth Tainui and Arawa descent, and had a specific ancestral relationship through Kaweauthe first wife of Te Whatatao. Ngai Tai"were also closely related to the Te Uri Karakahapu of Ngati Paoa who occupied the area east of the Wairoa River.

MAORI PLACENAMES - WHAKAKAIWHARA PENINStlLA

Umupuia

Waipokaia

Tauranga o Tainui

Whakakaiwhara

TE WAIROA

MawherawheraGJM. 1996

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There is no evidence that Cook came into direct contact with Ngai Tai, however he leftboth pigs and potatoes in the area. They had both become important items in the diet ofthe local people within a decade. (White 1888 Vol. V: 125 and Puna 1905: 2) Cook hadobserved the economic wealth of the Hauraki tribes and the vast timber resources that laynear to the coastline. This stimulated later European interest in the area. From the early1790s whaling and sealing ships reprovisioned in the inner Hauraki Gulf and from 1801ships had begun to cut spars in the area. The CMS missionary the Reverend SamuelMarsden walked along the western shores of the Hauraki Gulf in 1815 and once againdrew attention to the area's timber resources. Captain Downie, who accompanied him onthe HMS Coromandel in 1820-21, specifically charted the stands of 'cowrie' growingaround the Wairoa River.

Thus by the early nineteenth century Ngai Tai had come under a number of the indirectinfluences that resulted from European contact. In the 1820s they were to face thedevastation wrought by another European influence, the musket. The Ngai Tai peoplewho occupied the Maraetai-Wairoa River area initially avoided attack from Ngapuhi whohad destroyed the Ngati Paoa settlement of Mauinaina near present day Panmure in 1821.The reason was that they shared Arawa descent with Te Kapotai who were part of theattacking party. (Anaru Makiwhara, IPS Vol. 32:42) This did not however protect NgaiTai indefinitely from Ngapuhi attack. In the same period Te Tirarau from theMangakahia area led a Te Parawhau party in an attack on the Wairoa River area whileTara Te Irirangi of Ngai Tai was at Whakatiwai trying to procure muskets. (AnaruMakiwhara NLC Auckland 4: 111-112) The Ngai Tai people armed only with traditionalweapons were devastated, and a number of women and children were taken captive.

Some of those of Ngai Tai who survived this attack took refuge with their Tainuirelatives in the Waikato and were to remain there until the mid 1830s. A small numberof the tribe did however remain behind to hold the mana of the land. It was as a result ofthis period of that the first permanent European association with the tribe came about.Ngeungeu, one of the daughters of Tara Te Irirangi, had been taken to the Bay of Islandsby Ngapuhi. Here in the mid 1820s she married Thomas Maxwell (Tame Kohe) a crewmember of the whaling barque 'Harriet' which was reprovisioning at Kororareka.

Thomas and Ngeungeu Maxwell (Makiwhara) returned to Tamaki soon after this andsettled on Waiheke and later Motutapu Island. Sadly Thomas Maxwell drowned in 1842when his sailing cutter overturned in a storm off the east coast, and his wife was left tobring up their large family. Ngeungeu and her children then returned to live at Umupuiawith her father Tara Te Irirangi. They and their many descendants were to play aprominent part in the affairs of Ngai Tai over successive generations. Mrs. R.N. Zister agreat granddaughter of Thomas and Ngeungeu Maxwell is still resident at Umupuia, andat the age of 104 is the oldest living member of Ngai Tai.

It also was during this period of disruption that the first documented European visit to theWairoa River was made. In 1832 the Hauraki tribes had asked the Church MissionarySociety (CMS) to establish mission stations in the district to help secure peace. TheCMS responded to the request by sending a mission party to the area to select suitable

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sites. (CMS Mission Book Vol VH: 31. 36, & 39) In late 1833 Reverend HenryWilliams and the lay catechist William Thomas Fairbum visited the area. Fairburn notedthat there appeared to be no people in occupation of the Tamaki Isthmus and that the landbetween there and the Wairoa also appeared to be deserted.

In November 1833 Fairburn visited Pakihi Island and explored the adjoining coastline.He then, "went a few miles up a small river called Wairoa, to gain an interview with thenatives." (Ibid.:339) Being unable to find any inhabitants he fired several gunshots toattract attention. Eventually a man and a child appeared, the man armed with a musket.The man "said he was afraid it was a tribe from the Waikato come to cut them off, suchis the state in which the people live, in continual dread of each other, always starting andtimorous." (Ibid.)

A'"

_

..

.•

Tara Te Irirangi the Ngai Tai rangatira painted at Umupuia by G.F. Angas in 1844.

From this encounter it would appear that the Ngai Tai settlements in the vicinity of theWhakakaiwhara Peninsula were not occupied in this period. While some of Ngai Tai hadremained on their ancestral land, the majority of the tribe did not return until 1835 whenthey came home from exile in the Waikato under the protection of the Tainui ariki TeWherowhero. Ngai Tai were however uneasy in the occupation of their ancestral domainin this period because of the enmity that then existed between Ngati Paoa, Waikato andNgati Whatua.

From 1835 the CMS missionaries James Preece and William Fairburn made regular visitsto the Ngai Tai kainga in the Wairoa area from the CMS mission that had beenestablished at Puriri near Thames. In 1835-36 they assisted in the conclusion of peace

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between the disaffected parties in meetings held at Tamaki Heads in late 1835, and atOrere, Okahu and Otahuhu in early 1836. It became obvious during these meetings thatownership of the Tamaki Isthmus, and the land lying between it and the Wairoa River,was disputed among all of the Iwi involved. William Fairbum who attended the Otahuhumeeting stated that, "the natives of the Thames very urgently requested that the landmight be purchased in order to put an end to the possibility of any future rupture betweenthem and Waikato, as up to this time it had been a disputed point, and much blood hadbeen shed in consequence." (CMS Mission Book Vol. 11:409) This led to what becameknown as 'Fairburn's Purchase'.

This transaction, which was initiated on January 22 1836 and concluded in December1839, involved an estimated 45,000 acres of land (subsequently found to be 75,000acres). It was witnessed by Reverend Henry Williams, Reverend Robert Maunsell,Reverend James Preece and George Clarke. As a result of 'Fairburn's Purchase', towhich Tara Te Irirangi, Nuku and Te Whetuki were signatories, Ngai Tai hadtheoretically alienated all of their land north of the Wairoa River, including theWhakakaiwhara Peninsula. However they remained in occupation of the land, and inJuly 1837 Fairburn undertook to return one third of the land to them and the other Maorisignatories as soon as the boundaries of the block had been formally surveyed.

All but one of the agreements involved in this transaction were signed at the missionstation that William Fairburn had established at Maraetai in July 1837. The Maraetaimission was to have a major impact on the lives of the Ngai Tai people. Within severalyears most of the tribe had converted to Christianity which they practiced with vigour.Other Hauraki Iwi also moved to Maraetai to be near the mission, and a number of NgaiTai took up residence in their old kainga of Pohaturoa at the eastern end of MaraetaiBeach. This brought the tribe into regular contact with European material goods.Fairburn, or Te Pepene' as he was known to Ngai Tai, introduced the tribe to Europeanfarming implements and practices.

Some of Ngai Tai also attended the mission school where they were taught to read andwrite by William Fairburn's daughter Elizabeth. One of her pupils was Te Whetuki theyoung son of the Ngai Tai chief Nuku. Te Whetuki adopted the baptismal of 'Hori' orGeorge and befriended William Fairburn's son Edwin. In his memoirs entitled'Maharatanga,' Edwin Fairburn made several recollections that tell us of the Ngai Tai useof the natural resources of the area. He noted that Hori Te Whetuki gave him, "a tui in akareao (supplejack) cage. He also taught him to snare bellbirds, seagulls, or pigeons."(E. Fairburn 1901:45) It was Hori Te Whetuki who was to sell the WhakakaiwharaBlock to Thomas Duder 30 years later.

In the summer of 1838-1839 a major influenza epidemic struck the area. WilliamFairburn reported that it "has pleased the Almighty to afflict the natives of thisneighbourhood very severely." (CMS Mission Book Vol. 11:416) Ngai Tai had alreadysuffered heavy losses at the hands of Ngapuhi and they were now further reduced innumbers. Some of the tribe remained living at Pohaturoa and they maintained seasonalsettlements throughout the Wairoa River Valley. This included the Whakakaiwhara

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Peninsula which Hori Te Whetuki stated that he occupied in the time of GovernorHobson, that is in 1840-41. (NLC Hauraki 1:11)

At this time most of Ngai Tai were living together at Umupuia "in a pa built by Tara TeIrirangi and Wi Te Haua." (NLC Auckland MB 4:107) It was this pa that was visited byJohn Logan Campbell when he called at Umupuia in 1840 to get the assent of Tara TeIrirangi to his purchase of Motukorea (Brown's Island). Campbell was "received withevery sign of high respect...and was made much of." (Campbell 1881: 165) He notedthat the Ngai Tai people now held morning and evening church services in their Umupuiameeting house, and that they had abandoned polygamy. He also noted interestingly thatalmost all of the adults smoked pipes. Tara Te Irirangi and some of his people thenconveyed Campbell to Motukorea in a large canoe and they erected a nikau whare forhim and his companion Brown.

In 1841-42 the Land Claims Commission investigated 'Fairburn's Claim'. In recognitionof William Fairburn's payment of goods to the value of 906 pounds, his occupation ofthe land and the improvements that he had carried out to his Maraetai farm, he wasawarded title to 5,500 acres at Maraetai, Otahuhu and beside the Tamaki River. This wasapproved by the Acting Governor Willoughby Shortland who agreed that Ngai Tai couldremain in occupation of their lands around the Wairoa River. Shortland also presented aUnion Jack to the tribe to symbolise the cooperation between them and the Crown. Thisflag was given to Honatana Te Irirangi and "it was erected at the mouth of the WairoaRiver" on Whakakaiwhara Pa. (NLC Auckland 4:110)

The Ngai Tai reserve of 6063 acres was confirmed by Governor FitzRoy in c. 1844 and itwas surveyed several years later. It extended from Fairburn's Maraetai property in thewest to the Wairoa River in the east, and included the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula. TheGovernor also agreed that some of the Hingawaka hapu of Ngati Paoa could maintain akainga on the northern edge of Oue Pa "as they had no land in the Tamaki area". (OLCFile 269 and 269a) This was done with Ngai Tai consent, although they did not acceptthat this group had a traditional right to the land. (Ibid.)

The 'Plan of a piece of land Reserved for the Natives by Governor FitzRoy at Maraetai'shows that the main Ngai Tai settlement was the pa located behind the beach in thevicinity of the present Umupuia Marae complex. It is of interest that the Australian artistG.F. Angas visited Umupuia in July 1844 during an eight day trip up the east coast of theNorth Island. While staying in the village he sketched the portraits of Tara Te Irirangi,his daughter Ngeungeu and his grandson James Maxwell. The plan of the NativeReserve also shows that there were still a number of outlying seasonal kainga that werestill being maintained on the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula, within what is now the RegionalPark. These included small clusters of whare located on the eastern side of the Te KuitiStream mouth, at the southern end of Te Wharau (Malua Bay), and at the northern end ofWaipokaia (Duck Bay).

The Crown purchase of surplus areas of the 'Fairburn Block, Wairoa' was ultimatelyconcluded between 1851 and 1854. Ngai Tai signed the Crown Deed on February 21

13

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1854. At this time they received 500 pounds and agreed to vacate all other parts ofTairburn's Claim' and "to move to that portion given to us by the Queen calledUmupuia" (Turton 1877: 290), that is to the Native Reserve approved by FitzRoy. Theleading signatory of the 1851 and 1854 agreements was Hori Te Whetuki who was nowthe leader of the tribe after the death of his father Nuku and Tara Te Irirangi in the 1840s.Being over six feet six inches in height, he became known to the local settlers as 'LongGeorge'. Hori Te Whetuki was to remain a notable figure in the district until his death in1882. James Jacob the sawyer who cut timber from the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula statedin this regard, "Hori was the tino kaumatua of this tribe, we always dealt with him as theowner of the land and looked to him to settle all disputes." (NLC Auckland MB 4: 99)

In the 1850s the Ngai Tai people of the Umupuia area numbered under 100 people. Theyenjoyed a good relationship with the European settlers who had begun to take up land inthe district in 1852. Ngai Tai had now been practicing Christians for two decades andthey had adopted quickly to the 'European economy' by becoming involved incommercial agriculture and trade. In 1854 for example, when local European settlerswere still establishing their farms, Ngai Tai sold fruit, potatoes, onions, 10 tons offirewood, nearly a ton of fish, 8 pigs and twelve bushels of wheat on the Aucklandmarket. Land Plans from this period show that the old hillside kumara gardens on theWhakakaiwhara Peninsula had now been abandoned. As with other Iwi throughout thenation, Ngai Tai were now using the horse and plough to cultivate and crop the extensiveflats lying to the west of the Peninsula. They also had large orchards of peaches, apples,pears and quinces on the flats between Umupuia and the base of the peninsula.

This decade of co operation and friendship between Ngai Tai and the European settlers ofthe Maraetai - Wairoa area was sadly to be followed by a tragic episode in the region'shistory with the outbreak of the Land Wars in South Auckland in September 1863. In1860 tension had begun to rise in the district after fighting broke out between Maori andEuropean in Taranaki. In late 1860 the Wairoa settlers formed a local volunteer militiawhich mustered regularly for drill and rifle practice. In June 1861 General Cameron andColonel Mould visited the Wairoa River in order to select sites for the construction ofmilitary installations to guard this important waterway. They inspected theWhakakaiwhara Peninsula but decided to build a series of stockades and redoubts furtherup river to protect the head of navigation around what is now Clevedon.

Ngai Tai watched apprehensively as military installations were constructed and militaryactivity increased in the district. The tribe and its rangatira were faced with a majordilemma. They had a long and generally amiable relationship with the local settlers andwith the Government. They were however part of the Tainui confederation of tribes andmany felt compelled to support their relatives in the Waikato who faced an imminentinvasion of their land.

When fighting broke out between the colonial militia and Te Akitai at Papakura in July1863, the Ngai Tai kainga of Otau near Clevedon was abandoned and a number of theyounger men of Ngai Tai joined the forces of King Tawhiao. The Ngai Tai rangatiraWatene Te Makuru left Umupuia and went with some of the tribe to Pakihi Island. The

15

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Maxwell men all left the district during this period. Robert and James Maxwell were inEngland, Manihera Maxwell was at the Nelson goldfields, and Anaru Maxwell hadmoved to Te laroa (The Bluff) near Mercer. Following Thomas Maxwell's death,Ngeungeu Maxwell had married his friend James Moncur, and had settled with him atKawhia. Ngeungeu was still living at Kawhia in the 1 860s with her daughter Raiha. TheNgai Tai rangatira Hori Te Whetuki and Honatana Te Irirangi, the son of Tara TeIrirangi, left Umupuia and settled at Pohaturoa. Only Wi Te Haua the father of WateneTe Makuru remained at Umupuia.

Hori Te Whetuki' s position was described many years later by Rapata Tamehana in theNative Land Court. He noted that Hori had gone to Sir George Grey and explained thathe feared for himself and his people if they remained at Umupuia. Hori indicated to theGovernor that he wished to go to Taupo (Kawakawa Bay) to live with Ngati Paoa,although he understood that if he left the area the Governor would take his land includingWhakakaiwhara. (NLC Auckland 4 1893: 97-98)

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The Settlers Stockade, Wairoa South as sketched by Lt.-Col. Morrow in 1863.

Grey advised Hori Te Whetuki to remain on his land. "Then said Hori what am I to do.Sir George Grey said leave that to me. I will give you a flag and you should be the pole,we will set up the staff." (Ibid. : 98) Hori Te Whetuki remained in the Maraetai area anddid his best to prevent fighting in the area. This is exemplified by the fact that the localBritish Army commander Lieutenant Colonel Morrow reported in September 1863 that,"on the afternoon of the 12th we received the welcome intelligence through a friendlychief called by the settlers 'Long George' that the rebels had decided in attacking thecamp in three days." (Cowan 1955:455)

On October 25 1864 a 'Proclamation of Amnesty to Rebel Natives' in the Wairoa-Hunuaarea was issued. Following this some of the tribe returned to Umupuia. Many werehowever to remain in exile with the Maori King or in the Waihou area for a decade.Ngai Tai retained their Native Reserve centred on Umupuia. They were however to loseOtau Village and all of their lands in the Upper Wairoa Valley when the 58,000 acreEastern Wairoa Block was confiscated by proclamation on May 16 1865. Honatana Te

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Irirangi received 1000 pounds compensation for the land on behalf of the tribe howeverNgai Tai continued to feel that their loyalty to the Crown had been betrayed. AsHonatana stated at the Compensation Court - "We did not supply food or clothing tothose of our tribe who went to the King (Tawhiao). There were some of our tribe inrebellion at Otau. We never took goods from Auckland nor were any landed at our place,and forwarded by us to Piako or the Thames. There were no messages passed betweenourselves, the Ngati Tai and the rebels." (Weekly News May 27 1865:9)

During the six month outbreak of fighting most of the Ngai Tai villages and cultivationsin the area had been damaged and they had lost most of their livestock. For this reasonNgai Tai applied to the Crown along with the local settlers for compensation for thelosses that they had sustained. Hori Te Whetuki received 190 pounds and Watene TeMakuru received 30 pounds. The war had however had inflicted far more than materialdamage. It had left the tribe divided and devastated with a legacy of bitterness over theland confiscation that has continued to the present day. In 1865 Ngai Tai remainedscattered with the small remaining community being focused on the Umupuia kainga.The tribe retained its 6063 acre Native Reserve as papa tupu or jointly owned customaryland.

This was soon to change however as a result of the enactment of the Native Land Act of1865. This Act had as its primary aim the extinguishment of Maori customary title and

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its replacement with a Certificate of Title to be awarded by the Native Land Court. Titlewas awarded to rangatira on behalf of the tribe as trustees, although "in practice theywere legally able to alienate their interest." (Orange 1987:179) In late 1865 Hori TeWhetuki applied to have the Ngai Taj Native Reserve surveyed into blocks, title of whichwas to be determined by the Native Land Court. The largest of the ten blocks surveyedwas the 1376 acre Maraetai Block which was retained by the tribe. The other blockswere to be offered for sale on the open market. In this regard Hori Te Whetuki stated atthe Land Court hearing into the Te Ruangaingai Block (inland of Maraetai) that he had,"other lands sufficient to support myself and my family, more than we can work forgenerations to come, I wish to have the power to sell." (NLC Hauraki 1: 123)

The Whakakaiwhara Block which lay on the eastern edge of the Native Reserve wassurveyed by D.L. Duffus in November 1865. "Title to the Block was investigated in theNative Land Court Thames on March 7 1866 under Judge MacKay. In a brief hearingHori Te Whetuki claimed ownership of the land with a simple statement - "I ownWhakakaiwhara. I began to live there in the time of Governor Hobson (1840-41) and myancestors lived there before." (Ibid.: 11) A counter claim was lodged by HetarakaTakapuna of 'Ngati Paoa and Te Waiohua' on the basis Waiohua and Nga Iwi descent.After an out of Court discussion however, "an arrangement was made between theparties. Ngati Paoa resigned all claims over the block of 6000 acres sited to the west ofthe Wairoa," (Ibid.) Hori Te Whetuki had earlier stated that Ngati Paoa had occupied anarea of land near Oue Pa on the south eastern edge of the Whakakaiwhara Block, "at theinstance of Mr. Fairburn, there being no land for them at Tamaki. This was done withour consent." (OLC 589-590 File, DOSLI) On the recommendation of Judge MacKay,Hori Te Whetuki subsequently made a monetary payment to Ngati Paoa in recognition ofthe Te Hingawaka occupation of the Oue area.

Hori Te Whetuki received a Crown Grant for the 600 acre (243 ha.) WhakakaiwharaBlock from the Crown on April 12 1866 and offered it for sale. The transaction wasorganised and the deed of sale interpreted by the retired missionary James Preece whohad worked among the Iwi of the Hauraki area since 1833. On July 16 1866 the blockwas purchased by Thomas Duder 'of the North Shore, Signalman' for 422 pounds. HoriTe Whetuki distributed the money to the tribe. This transaction was to begin the Duderfamily's association with the Whakakaiwhara Block most of which they still occupy 130years later.

In the decades following the sale of the Whakakaiwhara Block, Ngai Tai were to remainin occupation of the 3500 acre Maraetai Block which they had retained. Their mainsettlement continued to be the village of Umupuia which was located near the presentUmupuia Marae complex. Here Rapata Tamehana, a relative of Hori Te Whetuki's wife,constructed a meeting house for the tribe. It was erected "for general election purposes,visitors and a Court House." (NLC Auckland 4: 88) The meeting house was named'Harata Kingi' in honour of Hori's youngest daughter. Manihera and James Maxwell hadtheir own properties just to the east of the village .and Hori Te Whetuki constructed asmall two roomed weatherboard cottage for his own use at Mawherawhera to the south ofwhat is now the Regional Park entrance.

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Thomas Duder (1806 -1875) who was born at Kingskerswell, Devon, England, had beenliving permanently in New Zealand for 26 years when he purchased the WhakakaiwharaBlock. He had initially come to New Zealand as an Able Seaman in the HMS Buffalo onits first voyage to collect spars in 1833. He returned as a crew member of the HMSBuffalo in 1838, and was on board the vessel when it was wrecked at Mercury Bay onJuly 28 1840. During the 1838 visit Thomas Duder had visited the Waitemata Harbourin a cutter while the HMS Buffalo was loading spars at Mahurangi. His grandsonWilliam Thomas Duder recalled that during this visit Thomas "was so impressed heresolved to settle there." (B. Duder typescript, undated.)

A portrait of Thomas Duder (1806 - 1875) painted in 1873. -

After the wreck of the HMS Buffalo Thomas Duder was to get his opportunity to returnto the Waitemata. Governor Hobson, "offered some of the crew a discharge from theNavy if they would stay and help develop the new colony." (H. Duder 1972 :5) ThomasDuder took up the offer and was appointed Cox wain of Government revenue and generalservice vessel checking on customs duties and smuggling around the Hauraki Gulf. Thevessel that he used for this job was the HMS Buffalo's cutter which he had sailed upfrom Whitianga with his shipmate Oliver. In 1842 Thomas Duder was appointed asSignalman at Flagstaff (Devonport), a position he was to hold for 33 years.

While engaged in customs duties and the transport of Crown Officials and Missionariesaround the Hauraki Gutf 1840-42, Thomas Duder had visited most of the Maori andEuropean settlements around the Hauraki Gulf. They included Fairbum's MissionStation and farm at Maraetai, and the Maori village of Umupuia which was located justwest of the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula. Thus when the Whakakaiwhara Block was

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offered for sale in 1866 Thomas Duder had been familiar with the land for a quarter of acentury.

Thomas Duder was 60 years old when he purchased the property. He was to be fullyoccupied operating the Signal Station on Mount Victoria, Devonport until shortly beforehis death in 1875 and is not thought to have played any direct part in the development ofthe Whakakaiwhara Block. Thomas did however visit the property when he could, andhe is thought to have been responsible for planting the Norfolk pines that grew along theforeshore on the north western edge of the Block. One of these trees remains at theentrance to the Duder family homestead 'Rozel'. It would appear that Thomas Duderpurchased the Whakakaiwhara Block to provide an opportunity for his two eldest sonsWilliam Thomas and (Thomas) John Duder who were then aged 21 and 19 respectively.

From 1866 until 1873 William Duder and his brother John were to farm the Block inpartnership. The Duder brothers faced a daunting task in clearing and developing the 600acre (243 ha.) property. Their task was however to be easier than that faced by manypioneers of that era because very little of the block was covered in mature indigenousforest. When the Duder brothers settled on the property in 1866 they found a naturalenvironment that was highly modified. There were only a few small stands of nativeforest on the peninsula, with most of the block being covered in manuka or fern thatreflected centuries of occupation, cultivation and resource use. The Maori Land Plan ofthe Whakakaiwhara Block that was produced at the Native Land Court hearing in 1865,shows that when the Duder family purchased the land, the extensive flats to the west ofthe peninsula were in 'heavy scrub and native cultivations' (ML 123 Nov. 1865) Theonly areas of indigenous forest that remained were small and isolated pockets located inthe main gullies on the southern side of the Peninsula.

A certain amount of timber cutting had taken place on the property prior to the arrival ofthe Duder family. In the 1850s and 60s Hori Te Whetuki had sold timber cutting rightson the 6500 acre Native Reserve to European sawyers who established a 'Sawyers Camp'at Mawherawhera on the south western edge of the Whakakaiwhara Block. Most timberwas cut from the high country to the west of what is now North Road. Sawyers such asJames Jacob did however cut kauri from the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula. It is known thatlogs were taken from inland of Te Wharau (Malua Bay) and were sent down to the beachvia a log chute which is still visible at the northern end of the bay. It is of interest to notethat none of the remaining forest remnants, including the coastal pohutukawa, were to bemilled by the Duder family during their 130 years of ownership of the WhakakaiwharaPeninsula.

The Duder brothers initially lived in a tent pitched near the mouth of the Te Kuiti Streamon the north western edge of the Block. In January 1873 William Duder married JannettFrench at Devonport and took his new wife to the Whakakaiwhara property soon after.They also initially lived in a tent, then in a nikau whare sited near the mouth of the TeKuiti Stream. Here Jannett cooked on a camp oven and maintained the campsite andvegetable gardens while William and John developed the farm. In October 1873 Jannettgave birth to their first child Lillian. It is thought that she may well have been named

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after Hori Te Whetuki's eldest daughter Te Riria (Lillian). Lillian was to name her firstdaughter Te Riria.

In 1874 John and William, almost certainly with help from their carpenter brotherFrederick, built a small weatherboard cottage with a kauri shingle roof on the site nowoccupied by 'Rozel'. In this humble cottage William and Jannett Duder were to raiseLillian and five other children who included: Gertrude born in 1875, Zealandia 1877,William Thomas 1879, Emma 1882 and Jeanette 1886.

Two months before his death in August 1875 Thomas Duder transferred the title to theWhakakaiwhara Block to his eldest son William. The transfer was completed withoutpayment, and was made, "in consideration of the natural love and affection which thesaid Thomas Duder beareth his son the said William Thomas Duder." (Deeds Register 27D 926) At this time William Duder formally dissolved his partnership with his brotherJohn. He purchased John's share of the farm cottage for 90 pounds and compensated himfor other improvements made on the property.

tJohn returned to the property on occasions to help William. From this time however,John developed a wide range of property and business interests. They were focused onthe Masonic Hotel, Devonport, which he built and lived in until his death. William alsoreceived ongoing assistance from his other brothers who were resident at Devonport, andwho were all to become successful in their own chosen fields of endeavour. William'stwin brothers Robert and Richard provided seasonal help at busy times. Robert, who wasa champion athlete and cyclist, would have been of particular help on the largelyunfenced run. "He was renowned for running down and catching sheep, without a dog tohelp." (Philson 1990: 75) From the late 1870s William's youngest brothers Albert andFrederick also helped out when they were able to.

The development of the Whakakaiwhara Block in the late nineteenth century washowever largely the work of William and Jannett Duder and their children. It was to be amajor ongoing task that was to occupy their descendants for another three generationsBy the turn of the century William and his family had transformed the easier country andhad developed one of the best farms in the district.

When he retired in 1904, William had made a name for himself as a well organised andsuccessful fanner and as a leader in the local community. This was a remarkableachievement considering the fact that he was "the first pakeha child to be born inDevonport" (Philson 1990 : 29), and that he had received only a limited formal educationat Rev. Hey wood's Devonport School. Like his brother John he had begun regularmenial work at a very early age. From childhood William helped run the 83 acre familyfarm at Duder's Point, Ngataringa Bay, and before he had reached his teens he wasassisting his father in the management of Crown grazing leases on Tiritiri Matangi andMotuihe Islands. Thus when he took over the Whakakaiwhara Block at the age of 21 in1866, William had considerable experience in stockmanship and the management of anextensive grazing run.

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In spite of his basic education William Duder kept a remarkably accurate Day Book thatdetailed income and expenditure relating to the property 1873-1905. This Ledger, whichis still in the possession of his great grandson Ian Duder, gives a remarkable insight intothe development of the property and farming routines 1873 -1905. The development ofthe property in this period was largely focused on the fertile flats extending south fromthe homestead to Oue Pa. Manuka and other scrub was cleared, stumps were removedand burned, the land was ploughed, and pasture was progressively established.

William and Jannett Duder and their family in c. 1904. Back row from the left: Jeanette,Lillian, Gertrude, Zealandia. Fronfrow from the left: Emma, William snr, Jannett and

William jnr. (Vera Kempt, from Philson 1990)

Several post and rail timber fences were constructed, however little suitable timber wasavailable for fencing on the property. For this reason, and to assist with drainage, thefiats to the south of the homestead were subdivided into twelve paddocks through theconstruction of ditch and bank structures topped by a hawthorn hedge. The flat landlying to the south of the Regional Park entrance remained undeveloped at this time in onelarge paddock known as 'No. 2". Farm buildings and yards were constructed to the southof the homestead on the southern side of the Te Kuiti Stream. The timber used waspurchased from Jacobs Sawing Station at Mawherawhera, or was brought in by scowfrom David Goldie and Sons 'Oceanic SawmilP in Auckland.

The portion of the property that now makes up the Regional Park saw little developmentin this era, and was not in fact to be intensively developed until the post World War nperiod. 'The Run' as it was called, remained as a large, unfenced, extensive grazingblock. The development that did take place on the Peninsula in the late nineteenth

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century was largely confined to the relatively accessible area adjoining Waipokaia (DuckBay). The swampy flats behind the bay were improved through the installation of anetwork of drains dug by William Duder with help from local Maori. It is thought (I.Lawlor pers comm.) that this system may well overlie an older Maori drainage networkconstructed in conjunction with the cultivation of taro.

Prior to the 1890s William Duder did much of the development work himself, althoughfrom 1877 he generally employed a permanent farm labourer who was paid fifteenshillings per week. They included: Michael Duggan, Joseph Duggan and Walter Weston.Hugh Me Crystal who worked on the property from 1880 until 1893 was the longest termemployee. Duder also periodically employed local Maori to carry out scrub cutting,drainage work, shearing, wool washing and general farm maintenance. They includedgroups organised by Rapata Maxwell and later by Pepa Kirkwood who was to work onthe property until 1906. Pepa Kirkwood had married Te Riria the daughter of Hori TeWhetuki and had settled at Umupuia following Hori Te Whetuki's death in 1882. In thisperiod he acted as a 'Native Constable' in the district, and along with Manihera Maxwellwas seen as a leader of the Ngai Tai community occupying the Maraetai - Wairoa area.

In the 1890s the large 'Second Ridge' and 'Second Gully' paddocks north of Waipokaia(Duck Bay) were ploughed by local Maori. They were generally paid wages for theirwork, however for this job it was agreed that they would keep the kauri gum that wasturned up as payment. Duder family tradition records that so much gum was collectedthat it was hidden by the Maori workers who felt that William Duder might decide tochange the terms of this agreement. This never happened however, and with anapplication of bone dust, the first area of better quality pasture was developed on thePeninsula.

From the early 1890s William Duder was also able to rely on help from his young sonWilliam Thomas Duder who was generally referred to as 'Willie'. Willie Duder wasexpected to undertake a wide variety of tasks from an early age, although his father'sDay Book records that he did not receive a wage until he reached the age of 21 in 1900.In old age Willie Duder recalled that the property was still only partly developed by1890, and that the large 'No. 2' paddock extending south to Oue Pa had just been clearedof scrub. He noted that scrub was cleared during winter months and that it was burntduring February and March. At this time the many ditches on the farm were cleared andfences were repaired. (B. Duder undated mss.) New drains were also continually beingdug to improve drainage on the flats. Many of them incorporated 'Turanga' brand fieldtiles from Granger's Whitford brickworks.

The annual burn off of the scrub and danthonia pasture on the Peninsula was to be afeature of the management of "The Run1 until the 1940s. This routine, which wasundertaken to stimulate autumn pasture growth, was a standard practice on hill countryfarms throughout New Zealand in this era. It was to lead to a slow decline in the fertilityof the pastures on the Peninsula that was not to be reversed until the 1940s.The farming regime that was to be practiced by William Duder was established early andwas typical of that found throughout the Colony at that time. The farm was essentially

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an extensive pastoral property, with farming operations being focused on a flock of finewoolled Romney-Merino and Merino- Corriedale sheep. Several hundred sheep were runin the 1870s and flock numbers were built up as the farm was developed. By 1890 theflock had grown to 500, and by 1892 it was one of the largest in the district at 600. Itwas to remain at this level until William Duder retired in 1904.

William Duder's Day Book shows that his sheep were hand shorn in October orNovember. This difficult task was initially undertaken by William himself with helpfrom local Maori, and then by one of the Kelly family from Maraetai. The fleeces wererolled, tied with a piece of flax, and foot pressed into bales. The bales were then sledgedto the beach and taken to Auckland on the local steamers SS Planet and later the SSWaitoa. The wool clip grew from five bales in the late 1870s to thirteen bales by the turnof the century. It was generally sold on the local market through Auckland agents suchas Hunter & Nolan, although it was occasionally sold 'on owner's account' on theEnglish market.

Wool was to remain the most important source of income for the farm in the latenineteenth century. In fact in relation to what is how the Regional Park it has alwaysprovided the most consistent source of farm income. The early 1870s were a time ofrelative prosperity as wool prices were high, at up to ls./2d. per pound. Because of this,the farm produced a profit of 163 pounds during the first year that William operated it inhis own right. However between the early 1880s and the late 1890s New Zealandunderwent a prolonged economic depression, with wool prices falling by as much as50%. As with all other farmers in the country, William Duder was forced to diversify hisrange of farm products in order to continue the development of the farm and to provide asatisfactory income to meet the needs of his growing family.

William had always sold older ewes and some wethers both to the local Wairoa South(Clevedon) butcher and to the Auckland market. These sheep were generally drivenaround the coast to Maraetai overland to Papatoetoe, and then via the Great South Roadto W. Buckland's saleyards at Remuera or Newmarket. When refrigeration came intowidespread use from the late 1880s, the sale of sheep meat became more profitable andthe sale of fat lambs became an option. The ewes and lambs were driven along the claytrack that was North Road to Clevedon, as Wairoa South was renamed in 1895. Therethe ewes were separated and driven home, while the lambs were taken in Paton's horsedrawn waggons to the Westfield Sale. On some occasions Paton's waggons would arriveat the farm before daylight to take on loads of 24 fat lambs per waggon. They wouldthen return to Clevedon where the horse teams were changed, and then proceed with thelambs to the Westfield Sale.

In this period William also built up a herd of Shorthorn cattle. Most of these were run asstore cattle , especially on The Run', and were sold as three year olds at the PapakuraSale for fattening. Some stock were also sold locally at the Buckland & Son Saleyardson the southern edge of Clevedon, or at the Loan & Mercantile Ltd. Saleyards locatednear the Clevedon Wharf. On occasions cattle were also driven overland for sale at W.Buckland's Remuera Saleyards. Cattle hides were cured and sold to the Ireland Bros.

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tannery at Panmure, and later to the Jagger & Parker tannery at Motion's Creek,Auckland.

From the late 1870s a small Shorthorn dairy herd was also kept. The cows were milkedby hand in a simple shed that had a yard paved in scoria flagstones obtained from R&RDuder's Devonport Quarry. It is of interest to note that some of these flag stones can stillbe seen on the eastern edge of the present sheepyards. Cream was skimmed from thewhole milk and homemade butter was produced in a large wooden churn. The butter wasmade into pats and then boxed for sale. Some butter was sold to Hyde's General Store atClevedon at between 4d. and 6d. a pound. Most was however freighted out once a weekon the local steamer the S.S. Planet for sale to R&R Duder's store at Devonport, or toother Auckland grocers.

MASSKV HAUdS SECTIONAL SBBHEK.

Butter was never to be a major product of the Whakakaiwhara Block prior to the 1910s,however when wool and stock prices were very low 1884-1892 it provided an importantsupplementary source of income for the Duder family. In the 1890s William began togrow swedes as a winter fodder crop for the herd. The seed was sown using a Massey-Harris drill purchased for 10 pounds in 1896. A Massey Harris horse rake was also usedduring hay making. Hay was cut on the flats, raked into rows and then taken by sledge toeither be stored in the loft of the old Woolshed, or to be built into hay stacks.

Prior to the 1890s pigs were generally purchased for home use from the Ngai Taisettlement located on the western edge of the Duder property. However as the dairy herdincreased in the late 1890s, William Duder started keeping pigs to further supplement thefamily's income. The pigs were kept in a pen located on the eastern side of the Te KuitiStream opposite the Duder homestead and were fed skim milk from the cow shed. Thepigs were butchered and sold both locally and to R&R Duder's Devonport store. Baconwas produced for home use and also sold locally.

26


Robert and Richard Duder bred working horses, farm hacks and some renownedthoroughbreds at their North Shore property. They also bred and spelled a large numberof thoroughbred race horses on their 'Waiomanu' farm at Maraetai as well as on WilliamDuder's property. From the late 1890s William also bred farm hacks and mares whichwere sold for as much as 30 pounds per head.

One resource that was always plentiful on the Whakakaiwhara Block was manuka. Mostof it was burnt as the property was developed, although right from 1873 it was also soldto Auckland merchants such as J.J. Craig and also to R&R. Duder's. Firewood was animportant product prior to the introduction of electricity and it was to be cut from thePeninsula for fifty years. William's grandson Jack Duder cut manuka from what is nowthe Regional Park until the 1920s. It was sledged to the cliffs above the 'Yellow Rocks'and then thrown down to the beach to be loaded on to scows for sale in Auckland.

As stated earlier, kauri gum had been gathered from the area behind Waipokaia (DuckBay) when it was ploughed in the 1890s. Kauri gum continued to be taken from thePeninsula during ploughing and track development until the 1940s. Ian Duder recallsgetting 130 pounds for kauri gum that he collected behind the plough. This enabled himto pay for a trip to Australia and also to buy a tent. Another farm product that providedsome income in the 1890s was grass seed. Coxfoot seed was gathered annually for useon the farm, and suprisingly rats tail seed was gathered for sale. In 1904 William Duderalso received ten pounds fifteen shillings from the sale of flax to Whitechurch's Flax Millthat was located on Maori land near the north western edge of the property. Flax wasbrought to this mill from all around the district until it burned down in 1907 on the nightthat William's grandson Jack Duder was born.

While some bulk stores were brought in from R&R Duder's Devonport Store and fromHyde's Wairoa South (Clevedon) Store, William and Jannett Duder were.largely selfsufficient. Pigs were kept in pens across the Te Kuiti Stream from the homestead, fowlsand bees were kept, and a large vegetable garden was maintained. William Duder alsoplanted a large orchard in the paddock that became known as 'The Quinces'. The originof this name was the windbreak of quince trees that was planted along the southern edgeof the orchard. Several of these trees still remain in the Regional Park to the east of theWoolshed. There was also a small orchard adjoining the northern side of the presentsheepyards. A remnant of this orchard is still to be seen in the form of a large fig treewhich is still bearing prolifically.

A great deal of home produce was sold locally or freighted to Auckland to furthersupplement the family income. Products that were sold included: potatoes, pumpkins,onions, eggs, turkeys, and fruit. Until the 1910s peaches were collected from wildlingtrees located on former Maori settlement sites around the Peninsula, and also from theextensive groves at "Peach Point" or Oue Pa. The peaches were sold locally or freightedto R&R Duder's Devonport Store.

The transport of goods and produce to and from Auckland was always a major exercisefor the Duder family. Land for a road between Umupuia and Wairoa South (Clevedon)

27


had been gifted to the Crown by Ngai Tai and the settler families living south of theWhakakaiwhara Block in 1879. This road was not properly formed until the early 1900sand was not metalled until the late 1920s. There was no road link with Maraetai until1931. As a result the Duder family was totally reliant on the local coastal shippingservice which had restricted access to the Umupuia Beach because of its tidal nature. Ifthe tide was low, freight was taken out across the tidal flats using a horse drawn sledge.If the tide was full it was conveyed out to the waiting vessel in the family's 12 footdinghy.

• '

,r/eUE3-..; -i _" -"..••~;i\=*

The S.S. Hirere at Clevedon Wharf in the 1920s. This vessel transported freight andgoods for the Duder family and other local settlers from 1897 until 1928.

Between 1866 and 1879 produce and goods were transported to and from Auckland inthe 15 ton cutter 'Rapid' which was operated in partnership by the Wairoa SouthStorekeeper Thomas Hyde in partnership with Captain George Couldrey. Steam servicesfrom Wairoa South began in 1875 and the Duder family relied on little steamers such asthe 'Transit', 'Gemini', 'Lily' and the 'Rotoiti' to bring in bulk stores and to freight outwool, butter and other farm produce. In the 1880s several steamers operated on theAuckland-Wairoa South run, with the best known being the 18 ton steamer 'Planet'. The'Waitoa took over from the 'Planet' and it in turn was replaced by the 'Blanche* and theMinerva'.

The best known of the coastal steamers that were used by the Duder family was the'Hirere' which operated from 1897 until 1928 under Captains Pearce, Couldrey andSpencer. This vessel made a scheduled run twice a week but would also make special

28


trips to collect the annual wool clip. On these occasions the Hirere would ground 50yards offshore and wool bales would be taken out on a sledge and loaded using a steamwinch. The 'Iranui' operated briefly in 1928 - 29 at which time regular coastal shippingservices to Clevedon ceased with the onset of the Great Depression and motorised roadtransport.

William Thomas Duder was a keen sailor like his father. He had always owned a smallcutter for recreational use and for travelling to see the extended family in Devonpott. Inthe 1890s William and Jannett Duder decided that the family needed a larger vesselwhich would carry their growing family, and which would make them less reliant on thecoastal steamers and tidal cycles in transporting their stores and produce. In the early1890s the Couldrey family of Maraetai had commissioned Logan Bros, of Auckland tobuild a shallow draft centreboard yacht the 'kia Ora'. It had been successfully used totransport flax from the many shallow tidal estuaries around the district to Whitechurch'sUmupuia Flax Mill.

In 1894 William Duder commissioned Logan Bros, of Auckland to build a 33 foot yachtof the same design as the 'Kia Ora' at a cost of 171 pounds. At the same time he alsohad a punt built at a cost of 3 pounds ten shillings. The new yacht was launched onOctober 20 1894 and was named 'Lillian' in honour of William and Jannett's eldestchild. The shallow draft of the 'Lillian' enabled her to be taken right up the Te KuitiCreek behind the house. Here her specially designed cockpit could be loaded withproduce for export to Auckland. William used the 'Lillian' regularly on trips toDevonport and the City and generally had his daughter Emma as his crew. The familyoften entered the 'Lillian* in regattas held at Devonport, Judges Bay and Waiheke. Theyalso sailed in the annual Auckland Anniversary Day Regattas and gained third place inthe all comers handicap in 1897.

Not long before the purchase of the 'Lillian', William Duder was faced with anotherconsiderable item of expenditure when his home was badly damaged as a result of a freakaccident. In 1889 John Duder visited the farm bringing with him some new explosivematerial that he had obtained as a Lieutenant in the Naval Volunteer Reserve. WhileJannett Duder was preparing lunch, John and William decided to test the effectiveness ofthis explosive material on a puriri stump located across the creek from the house. Whendetonated, the explosive sent a large piece of puriri through the wall of the housedemolishing the dining table. At this time, partly to placate Jannett, the decision wastaken to build a new house on the site.

In 1890 the homestead, which is still occupied by Ian and Mary Duder, was constructedby Messrs Evans & Davis. The house was essentially a completely new structure,although the old kitchen section and much of the kauri sarking from the original cottagewas retained. It incorporated puriri foundation blocks that had been cut from thePeninsula and was constructed of the best quality kauri timber and joinery obtained fromAuckland timber merchants D. Goldie & Sons. William and Jannett Duder's new homewas named 'Rozel' in honour of Jannett's childhood home at Fort George, Guernsey. Itbecame the focal point of all activities on the Whakakaiwhara Block, with farm workers

29


and housemaids being quartered in small rooms at the rear of the house. 'Rozel' hasremained an important focal point for William and Jannett Duder's descendants, and forthe wider Duder family until the present day.

The yacht 'Lillian' built by Logan Bros, in 1894 for William Duder. (I. Duder)

Throughout their lives William and Jannett Duder worked long hours to develop theirlarge property. They had little leisure time, although they enjoyed musical evenings withtheir children and hosted family gatherings at holiday times. William also subscribed tothe Observer weekly newspaper and the NZ. Farmer magazine. As with most women inthe Victorian era, Jannett focused her activities around her family and the homesteadwhile William took a more visible role in community affairs. He was a member of theFarmers Association (later the Farmers Union) and a founding member of the WairoaSouth Farmers Club. William Duder was also a member of the Wairoa South MutualImprovement Association and later the Clevedon School Committee. He was alwaysactive in the affairs of the All Souls Anglican Church, Clevedon. After Willie began fulltime work on the farm, William and Jannett took several trips on the steamer to Thames,and even made one trip to the South Island. This was almost certainly to visit William'suncle Humphrey Duder who had settled at Port Chalmers in 1874.

30


In 1903 Lillian Duder married Robert Kay at 'Rozel'. They left the district and settled inthe Waikato. In the following year Willie Duder married Mary (Gert) Stephens whosefamily had purchased the neighbouring Papepape Block from Hori Te Whetuki in 1867.William Duder had now turned 60 and he and Jannett decided to hand over themanagement of the farm to Willie and his new wife, and to retire to Devonportaccompanied by their four unmarried daughters who had worked so hard on the familyfarm since childhood. '

The Duder homestead 'Rozel' situated at the mouth of the Te Kuiti Stream in 1970. Onthe right is the century old Norfolk Pine which lost its top soon after. (I. Duder)

Zealandia, Emma and Jeanette were married at Devonport 1905-1908. Their elder sisterGertrude did not marry and remained living with her mother for many years. Emma andJeanette were to remain living in the Clevedon district and maintained regular contactwith Willie and Gert. Emma married Frederick Mullins and settled at Ardmore, whileJeanette married Frederick Stephens and settled just down the road on a property inNorth Road, Clevedon. Zealandia married William Gollan and settled on a propertybeside the Panmure Highway where she provided accommodation to Willie and hisfamily when they were driving stock to Westfield for sale.

On retirement William Duder retained title to the property in which he had investednearly fifty years of his life and he visited the farm as often as he could. Whenundertaking such visits William normally rowed out from Devonport in his 12ft. sailingdinghy and met the 'Hirere' on her scheduled run to Clevedon. On July 3 1906 he set offin his dinghy to meet the 'Hirere', however it was delayed in Auckland with mechanical

31


problems. It is assumed that William decided to continue on to Umupuia in blusterywinter weather, and that he drowned after his small craft capsized off Howick where hisbody washed ashore. William was buried at O'Neill's Point Cemetery, Bayswater, nearthe original Duder family farm.Following William Duder's death, title to the Whakakaiwhara Block transferred to thetrustees of his estate. They included: his widow Jannett, his brother John, his daughterGertrude Isabella, and Archibald McNicol who was one of the Clevedon district's oldestsettlers. The trustees were to retain title to the farm until the death of John Duder in1934. While acting as a trustee, Jannett seldom visited Umupuia and remained living ather Devonport home with her daughter Gertrude. Here, as the family matriarch, shereceived regular visits from her extended family until her death in 1937 at the age of 98.Her children and grandchildren continued to visit 'Rozel' for holidays and familyfunctions, however the subsequent history of the Whakakaiwhara Block was to beprimarily concerned with Willie and Gert Duder and their descendants.

Willie Duder was to live all of his 74 years on the Whakakaiwhara Block and was tofarm the property in his own right for over 40 years. At 'Rozel' he and Gert raised fourchildren William Stephen (Steve), John (Jack), Charles Frederick (Fred) and MaryJeanette (Molly). They were all to be intimately associated with the WhakakaiwharaBlock for many years. Fred was resident at 'Waitiro' on the south western edge of theBlock for many years. He is now resident at Duder's Beach on the beachfront sectiongifted to him by his father. Molly and her husband erected a small holiday bach on thesection that she inherited at Duder's Beach. She was however prevented from building aretirement home on the section as the Manukau City Council had zoned the beachfront asa proposed reserve.

Although Willie Duder's period of management began with tragedy it was to be an era ofprosperity, development and major change. After his father's death he simply got onwith the routine of farm life, although he made one important decision that wasobviously influenced by the recent family tragedy. The steamer 'Hirere' was nowproviding a reliable and regular shipping service, and Willie had little interest in sailingwhich would have further diminished on his father's death. For these reasons he decidedto sell his father's pride and joy the 'Lillian' to Mr. Herbert Duke of Auckland in 1906.He in turn sold the vessel to a Mr. J. Thompson, and from 1908 the 'Lillian' operated outof Auckland as a commercial fishing boat.

In the early 1900s Willie Duder initially maintained the farming practices established byhis father and he continued to farm the Whakakaiwhara Block as one large unit. By 1910he had however begun to intensify the development of the property and to increase farmproduction in a period which saw a revolution in agricultural practices. These includedthe introduction of more scientific fanning methods, mechanisation and motorisedtransport. In this period the property became less of a mixed farm. Wool was tocontinue to provide an important source of income, however increasing emphasis wasplaced on meat production, and in the 1920s on dairying. The viability of the farm wasalso increased during and just after World War I when Willie Duder purchased two 44acre blocks of flat land on the south western edge of the Whakakaiwhara Block. These

32

IIIIII1IIIIIIIIIIIII

two blocks were acquired from Issac Ward who had purchased the land from Ngai Tai in1912 and 1915 respectively.

In this period farm development was focused on the southern flats extending out to OuePa. The Whakakaiwhara Peninsula continued to be farmed as an unfenced grazing runwith the area in rough danthonia pasture being maintained through scrub cutting andannual burnoffs. The stock carrying capacity of the Peninsula remained limited by thepoor quality of the pasture, and also by the reliance on natural water which dried upduring prolonged periods of dry weather. The developed part of the farm also facedwater supply problems in summer. For this reason Willie retained the renowned waterdiviner Reverend H. Mason from Otahuhu to locate two good underground watersources. He selected one site near the Woolshed, and another near a brick lined well thatWillie had earlier excavated beside the present Regional Park Carpark. A six horse teamdragged a drilling rig to each site and the bores were drilled by a contractor who was thenworking in the district. A Sampson windmill was then installed above each well in orderto pump what proved to be an excellent supply of water.

Most of the development work on the farm was carried out by Willie Duder and his sonsSteve, Jack and Fred. A number of itinerant seasonal workers were employed, althoughthe only long term farm worker in this period was Harry Kenyon. He is particularlyremembered for his use of ferrets to control rabbits which had become a problem on thefarm by the 1920s. Local Maori such as Arthur Mihaka Roberts and Joseph Mihaka werealso employed to carry out seasonal work such as shearing, hay making, ditch cleaningand scrub cutting. They were resident in the kainga which adjoined the Duder property.This settlement was quite a large community until the mid 1920s, although numbersdeclined from this time on as Ngai Tai migrated to South Auckland to be nearer to work.The Maori families who were resident in the area continued to gather kaimoana fromWaipokaia (Duck Bay) and until 1945 to undertake annual shark fishing expeditions atWhakakaiwhara Point.

Under Willie Duder's management the sheep flock grew steadily from 585 in 1904 to900 in 1910. The flock was to remain at around that level until the 1920s when it wasreduced to 600 as dairying became more important. In the 1930s the flock rose again toover 900 when the area in pasture on the Peninsula was extended. There was also achange in sheep breed, with the flock being switched from Merino-Corriedales toRornneys as meat production became more important. Until 1914 the flock was stillhand shorn by Willie Duder, Arthur Mihaka Roberts and other itinerant shearers at therate of 50 sheep each per day. A hand cranked handpiece was tried however it was notfound to be practical, and in 1914 a two stand Lister shearing plant was installed. It waspowered by a Lister petrol engine which was permanently mounted on a sledge so that itcould be towed around the farm to be used for other tasks.

From the 1920s until the 1940s the shearing was carried out by Jack Duder and local menJoseph Mihaka and Tui Kepa. Rather than being foot pressed directly into bales, thewool was now pressed in a wool press purchased in 1914. It is of some interest that thiswool press was to remain in regular use until 1985, and that it is still located in the

33


present Woolshed. The wool bales continued to be taken by sledge out across the tidalflats to the 'Hirere' when it was not on a scheduled passenger run. The wool was nowsold to G. W. Binney & Sons of Parnell.

During the 1914-18 War the efforts of the Dairy Producer Board meant that there was asecure market for New Zealand dairy produce in Britain. "From 1919 to 1929 butterexports rose six times, cheese exports increased by 60 per cent, and the averageproduction per cow by 40 per cent" (Barber 1989:117) In this period Willie Duderexpanded his dairy herd and switched from the all purpose Shorthorn breed to the morespecialised milk producing Friesians. The herd of 30 cows was hand milked by WillieDuder and his sons Steve, Jack and Fred in the old shed and scoria flagstone cow yardthat had been constructed in the 1870s.

The Duder boys were expected to milk at least six cows before riding to school. Theyattended both Clevedon North School, which was located near the farm, and MaraetaiSchool which were operated as 'half time' schools until 1925. From the 1910s the Duderfamily ceased to make homemade butter for sale. Cream was then separated and sold toFox & Ingram's Clevedon Butter Factory which was later operated by James McKnightfrom 1918, and then by Wesley Spragg's NZ Dairy Association. Until around 1918 thecream was taken by the Duder family to a bulk collection point halfway along the NorthRoad. Then for many years the cream was picked up by Paton's two horse waggon forthe various operators of the Clevedon Dairy Company.

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Store cattle were still sold at Papakura or sometimes driven overland to the Westfieldfreezing works via Brookby, Flat Bush and Otahuhu. Fat lambs continued to betransported for sale in Papakura. The other sheep were driven to Papakura and railed toWestfield. On some occasions such as the 1918 rail strike, stock were driven all the wayto Westfield by Willie and his sons who stayed overnight with Willie's sister Zealandia ather home on the Mt.Wellington Highway.

In the 1920s there was a significant increase both in stock numbers and production on theWhakakaiwhara Block. This growth resulted from factors that were influencingagriculture throughout the nation. In the years immediately following World War I aneconomic boom was anticipated and approximately one quarter of freehold land changedhands in New Zealand. In this period the viability of the farm had been greatly increasedwhen Willie Duder purchased the 88 acres of flat land on the south western edge of theBlock. Production also rose on the farm because of the influence of more scientific stockbreeding methods, the introduction of pedigree stock, and in particular because of asignificant improvement in pasture quality.

This latter advance resulted from the use of improved perennial grass varieties and theincreasing use of artificial fertiliser. From the 1890s until the 1920s bonedust was theonly fertiliser used on the farm. It was initially obtained from Hellaby's and then fromthe Clevedon Abbatoirs. In the 1920s the first regular use of fertiliser began on theproperty with the application of superphosphate and 'Belgian Slag'. The fertilizer wasgenerally brought in to Duder's Beach on the scow 'Taupo' skippered by Bill Couldreywho had previously had command of the 'Hirere'. It was then transported by horsedrawn sledge to the paddock where it was to be applied, and spread by hand. It was atthis time that the first fertilizer was applied to what is now the Regional Park. In thiscase it was basic slag that was sledged to the tops and spread over the western slopes ofthe first main ridge.

Scows such as the 'Taupo' were to be main carriers of bulk materials to the Duderproperty until World War II. As well as fertilizer, they transported in loads of up to 1000puriri posts from Great Barrier for use on the farm, and as mentioned earlier they tookout occasional loads of manuka firewood. Scows also brought in stock from the islandsof the Hauraki Gulf. On these occasions the cattle were pushed overboard to swimashore. They were then driven by stockmen to the Clevedon or Papakura Sales. Somescows like the 'Edna' and the 'Glenae' took large quantities of shell and sand fromUmupuia over several decades. Rights for this extraction had been leased out by WateneTe Makuru from the 1870s. (NLC Auckland 4: 92)

In spite of regular requests the Duder family never permitted the sand and shingleresources of the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula to be exploited. The only known extractionof shingle from the Peninsula was a load taken illegally from the 'Yellow Rocks' areaaround 1914. A young Jack Duder and his childhood friend Harold Munro happened tosee the scow loading shingle in the early evening. They reported this to Willie Duderwho informed the authorities and duly received payment from the skipper of the scow forthe shingle.

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The 1920s were a time of relative prosperity for Willie Duder and his family in particularafter wool and butterfat prices boomed 1925-1928. This was reflected in the constructionof several new farm buildings and the purchase of the family's first motor car. It was aNew Beauty Model T Ford which was purchased from John W. Andrews Ltd. ofAuckland at a cost of 230 pounds. The car was personally delivered by J.W. Andrews'daughter Mary who taught Steve Duder to drive in the front paddock. It was housed in agarage built behind the homestead. Several years later Willie Duder also purchased a oneton Model T truck. Horses continued to be used for ploughing and to pull the sledge andtip dray. The body of this latter vehicle was rebuilt in the 1940s and it continued to beused on occasions until the death of the farm's last draught horse 'Brownie' in 1955.

In 1927 a new walk through cowshed was built by Willie Duder and the Woolshed nowused by the ARC was constructed. The Woolshed has always played an important role inthe operation of the farm, thus its development and use over the years warrant someexplanation. The Woolshed was built by Jim Andrews a carpenter from Papakura usingrimu timber purchased from the Cashmore Bros, sawmill at Orere. He was assisted by ayoung Jack Duder who fondly recalled in later years Jim Andrew's saw horse which hada string attached to a large piece of mutton fat that was used to grease the hand saws.Jack Duder also remembered how Andrew's swore profusely when one of the farm dogsmade off with his precious piece of fat.

The two stand Lister shearing plant was transferred from the old shed where it was stillpowered by the Lister petrol engine. The lean-to structure on the front of the new shedwas constructed with double doors to allow the sledge mounted Lister engine to behauled into position to drive the shearing plant. Only three years later howeverelectricity was to arrive on the farm and an electric motor was installed to power theshearing plant. The redundant Lister engine was then moved to a small shed behind'Rozel' to drive a circular saw used for cutting household firewood.

The new woolshed was initially fitted with a grating floor only as far back as the mainsheep entrance from the yards. The area of grating was however extended to the rear ofthe southern end of the shed by Jack Duder in subsequent years in order to accommodatethe growing Romney sheep flock. The rear section of the building had an earth floor andwas used both to store farm implements and to store hay which was stacked with somedifficulty up to fourteen bales high.

The western side of the Woolshed was used entirely to house the horses which thenprovided the main source of motive power and transport on the farm. This part of theshed was divided into three sections. At the front of the shed a double entrance dooropened into an earth floored area which included stalls and a wide manger located againstthe wall of the wool floor. Beyond this area was a tack and feed room, and beyond it'again was a loose box used to hold young or sick horses and foaling mares. The facilitiesfor the working horses and a few thoroughbreds remained in use until the late 1930swhen tractors replaced the horse teams which had been used on the farm for seventyyears. In 1980 Ian Duder upgraded the Woolshed. A wooden floor fitted at the rear of

36


the shed was raised on steel bearers and the area under it was concreted. The floor of theold horse facility was also concreted in order to provide overnight accommodation formore than 400 ewes.

The Woolshed which has been the focal point for activities on the farm since itsconstruction by Jim Andrews in 1927.

The Woolshed was not only a valuable integrated facility that was the focal point for allfarming operations, but it also fulfilled an important social role for the Duder family andthe local community. Soon after its completion the Woolshed was used as temporaryaccommodation by many holiday makers camping at Duder's Beach when a severenortherly storm blew down most of their tents. During World War n the AirforceConstruction Squadron staged several barn dances in the shed to which they invited localfamilies and all available single young women. In the early 1950s Jack Duder's teenagechildren also organised several barn dances for their friends. More recently Ian and MaryDuder's eldest daughter's 21st birthday was also held in the Woolshed. The ARC Parksstaff continue to use the Woolshed as an office and as the main base for farm operationson the Regional Park.

In the first two decades of the twentieth century the Duder family lived a relativelyisolated and quiet life, although they had been connected with the Clevedon TelephoneAssociation Exchange in 1914. Their only neighbours were the Stephens family wholived on the adjoining Papepape Block and the remaining Ngai Tai families whooccupied the kainga on the western edge of the Duder farm. In this period however anincreasing number of visitors came to the area on weekends and during holidays. Guestsfrom the Wairoa Hotel, and after 1910 Paton's Empire Boarding House, often travelledout by waggon over the clay road to Umupuia when it had not been made impassable byMcGinty's bullock teams hauling logs off the Maraetai Block to the beach.

37


A highlight for the Duder family was the annual hunt held on the Whakakaiwhara Blockand the neighbouring Stephens property by the Pakuranga Hunt, of which Willie Duderwas a Committee Member. The Hunt has continued to be held on the property over theyears. As farms on the urban fringe began to be subdivided from the 1970s, this Huntbecame the most popular of the season, with up to 80 riders taking part. Hunts are stillheld on the Regional Park, although on a more limited basis than in the past.

Where to Stay when Visiting Hunua & ClevedonV tE« «9^K«tfivn«%9^Mk K^V^WhM** «Mk«!Sl«1**£V J0t9 fLrTl .4^fl«l 4t» 4Mb *

Morning and Afternoon Ten.Good Road tor Matoratt.

Tariff; £2 21. per utdf. 10(6 ftr day.

MRS. JANE PATON, Proprietress.

The Whakakaiwhara Peninsula has always been a popular spot with fishermen over theyears. A keen fisherman who visited the Duder property regularly in the early 1900s wasa Mr. Gamlen. He came on day trips and always fished from the same rock betweenMalua Bay and the Point. For this reason the Duder family still refer to the rock seventyfive years later as 'Gamlen's Rock'. Gamlen was succeeded by another keen fishermanSamuel Bishop who was the principal of Papakura Central School. He often fished from'Snapper Rock' at the southern end of Malua Bay until the late 1940s. Another keenfisherman throughout this period was Dick Waterhouse whose sister Bessie married JackDuder in 1929. He fished off the Point in a small flat bottomed punt that was jokinglyreferred to as the 'Queen Mary'. The bay where he kept his punt had always been calledHorseshoe Bay, however from this time it was also referred to as 'Queen Mary Bay'.

By the early 1900s Umupuia had become widely known as 'Duder's Beach'. The areawas promoted in the Auckland Automobile Association's Trips and Camping Guide' as"a very pretty spot, with good bathing, and plenty of shelter." (A.A.A. 1926 : 23) Withthe advent of the motor car it became an increasingly popular summer camping spot forthe motoring public. Duder's farm also became a popular spot for Boy Scout Campsfrom this time. The Scouts camped on the flats behind the beach and had the run of thefarm.

The Peninsula was also an area that was extremely popular with the Auckland boatingfraternity in this period. Launches from the Auckland based N.Z Power BoatAssociation, such as the 'Buffalo Bill', 'Karoro', 'Roma', and the 'Romany Lass" oftenvisited the Wairoa River. They sometimes anchored in the lee of 'Baffle Point', asWhakakaiwhara Point was then generally known. Sometimes crew members went ashorefor picnics or to shoot ducks in the area between Duck Bay and Oue Pa. The WairoaRiver and the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula were also popular weekend or holidaydestinations for Auckland yachtsmen. Three of Auckland's best known yachting andboat building families, the Baileys, Lidgards and Logans, often camped at Malua Bay on

38

EUROPEAN PLACENAMES - WHAKAKAIWHARA PENINSULA

The Burma RoadRocks

Horseshoe Bay(Queen Mary Bay)

Canlen's RockBailey's Hammock

Malua Bay

finapper Rock

The Pointffle Point)

. The Quarry

dmps and Hollows

Bay

Bush

G.J.M. 1996

Airforce Road


the southern side of the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula between the 1910s and the early1920s.

These camps of up to 50 people lasted for several weeks in summer and they took placewith the permission of Willie Duder whose mother Jannet was related to the Baileys.While memories of these camps have faded, there is one enduring reminder of them inthe form of two poplar trees growing several metres apart behind Malua Bay. During asummer camp in the 1910s a member of the Bailey family drove two poplar stakes intothe ground behind the beach to support his hammock. They subsequently grew into twovery large trees which are still referred to as 'Bailey's Hammock'.

The two poplar trees at Malua Bay that are known as 'Bailey's Hammock'

The bay used for these summer camps was traditionally known as Te Wharau', althoughit has been known to the Duder family as 'Malua Bay' for over a century. It takes itsname from the 'Malua' which was one of the best known yachts in Auckland's earlyracing fleet. The 'Malua' was a yacht of 7 tons displacement that was built by CharlesBailey Senior in Auckland in 1885 and owned by a Mr. Bindon. On the morningof December 28 1887 it was discovered that the 'Malua' had been stolen from itsAuckland moorings, and to the great consternation of the Auckland yachting fraternityhad simply disappeared. The police and the boating public, alarmed by a spate ofwaterfront thefts, mounted a determined search. The Auckland Customs launch 'Rita'and the tug 'Awhina', manned with a contingent of armed police, undertook a wideranging but unsuccessful search of the Hauraki Gulf.

A reward of 50 pounds was then posted and on January 2 1888 the 'MaJua' was found,"high and dry near Baffle Point, with sails unbent and a quantity of her gear thrown in

40


the water." (N.Z. Yachtsman Vol. IV: 342) A week later three young 'oyster and fishingboys' known as the 'Waitemata Pirates' were arrested on information received from anAlbert Street barber. They were sentenced to between three and five years in prison."This struck terror into the hearts of the thieves , and for many years after there were nowater-front thefts." (Ibid.) The small bay where the stolen yacht was beached is stillknown as 'Malua Bay' over a century later.

The late 1920s saw the onset of the economic depression which was to last until the mid1930s. It was to be a time of economic hardship for the Duder family with littledevelopment taking place on the farm. Several important changes did however occur inthe district and within the Duder family itself. Electricity arrived at Duder's Beach in1930, and 1931 saw the completion of the Maraetai Coast Road. This road was built bythe unemployed using shovels and wheelbarrows as part of a Government 'Scheme 5*project. Its completion greatly improved transport links with Auckland, and brought toan end the shipping services which had served the district for 80 years.

In 1929 Willie and Gert Duder's eldest sons Steve and Jack both married local women.Steve married Vera Hyde a member of one of Clevedon's oldest settler families. Theysettled on the 44 acre property that had been purchased by Willie Duder from Issac Wardin January 1919. Their home was the small weatherboard cottage that had been built inc. 1870 for the Ngai Tai chief Hori Te Whetuki. Steve Duder milked a small pedigreeFriesian herd on this block, which he named 'Waitiro' (Seaview), until 1934 when hegave up farming on medical advice. He then became the Auckland agent for GordonVacuum Break milking machines for several years. Following this Steve worked for along period for a local builder Thomas Murray until he left the district to work atMiddlemore Hospital. Jack Duder married Elizabeth (Bessie) Waterhouse of Ardmore.They settled in a cottage that was built for them to the west of the main homestead andJack continued to work the main property with his father.

During the Depression the main farm was not generating sufficient income to support allof the family. Molly continued to look after the home with her mother until she marriedAlfred Blundell and settled on a farm in North Road Clevedon in 1939. Fred Duder wasforced to look for work elsewhere. He was able to secure a job at the Clevedon PostOffice, although this meant a long bike ride there and back each day. In 1936 Fredmarried Madge Hyde, the sister of his brother's wife Vera, and they settled on the'Waitiro' Block which was purchased from Steve Duder.

After the death of John Duder in 1934, title to the 600 acre Whakakaiwhara Block wastransferred to Willie Duder who had been farming the property in his own right for thirtyyears. This year also saw an important development with the purchase of a 'GordonVacuum Break' milking machine supplied by Steve Duder. Its installation meant thatmilking took far less time and that there was more time for other farm work. The Listerengine driving the machine was also used to drive a water pump installed on the mainwell beside the shearing shed. The windmill above the well was then relocated on SteveDuder's property on the southern edge of the Block to pump to a reticulated supply.

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Few exotics were planted on the Peninsula itself, although William Duder did plant alone pine tree on the main ridge above the homestead. This tree stood as a landmark formany years until it was struck by lightning in the 1930s. The fallen trunk of the tree stilllies nearby, over 120 years after it was planted. The pine was subsequently replaced byanother planted by Willie Duder and his grandsons Ian and John in 1936. Thismalformed tree was removed in 1976.

Says EVERY COWS'Tit be much, happier, more contented and comfortable, and

I will give you greater returns"

IF YOU MILK ME WITH THE

GORDON VACUUMBREAK MILKING MACHINE

Extract* of letter* received from satisfied users:

"Without hesitation T cnn say tt liassolvcci the Hairy Fanners' greatestproblem.""Mlflr two fonsons I can fay wlllishiniTlfy. the mure 1 MFC II Hie foctl^r1 line II."

f.731l>. of tat In 300 dnys. Tills seasonshe Is shaping tor an even higherrecord. BO your machines arc Havingno Injurious cITcct on tlie udders,""Olio or tlin tnnln features of tlioIt.v.u: nn our h«rtl is—we never tison ]ng rope anil It has entirely banishednil liddcr trouble!) of any description.""Jty inp cow. o Pertlgren Jersey, did

Erery inanliliii; sold wltli i\ 3 Months' Gu»riinl«e or satisfaction or money refunded.

GORDON VACUUM BREAK MILKERS LTD."TUB 'PACK-TO-KATUnF. ' MILKING MACHINE."

38 fltberl. St., AUCKLAND. P.O. Box 1687. Phone 41-247.

When Willie Duder turned sixty in 1937 his son Jack Duder took over the managementof the main farm including the Peninsula. Fred Duder continued to farm 'Waitiro' whichwas extended in size when his father gifted him an additional 44 acres. In 1938 JackDuder began the long process of developing the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula. With helpfrom a local Maori Peter Paul he built a coast to coast fence between Sandy Bay andDuck Bay, thus subdividing the Peninsula into two blocks. This was the beginning of adevelopment programme that was to continue for over thirty years under the managementof Jack Duder and later his son Ian. It involved the subdivision of the Block into twentytwo paddocks, the ploughing and discing of all but the steepest parts of the property,pasture improvement and the application of fertilizer, reading improvement, theconstruction of water supply dams, and the construction of three hay bams.

The development of the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula had only just begun when it wasinterrupted by the outbreak of World War II in 1939. Both Jack and Fred were to remainworking their properties as essential workers, although the six years of war were to havea major impact on their lives and on the Whakakaiwhara Block. During World War nFred and Jack Duder served in the local unit of the Home Guard which was formed afterthe Japanese attack on Pearl Harbour in December 1941. In addition to their farm workthey carried out occasional patrols and built gun pits and tank traps on the North Road.

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As Duder's Beach was seen as a likely landing place for an invading force, Jack Duderwas issued with a Tommy Gun and 2000 rounds of ammunition. His and all of the localfamilies also maintained a supply of tinned food and other essentials in readiness for animmediate evacuation in the event of a Japanese attack.

Wairoa Survey March 1941. Note the coast to coastPeninsula and the two windmills in

fence across the Whakakaiwharause on the flats.

The Armed Forces were to have a direct and ongoing impact on the area. At one timeseveral thousand men from the Second Echelon arrived at Duder's Beach withoutwarning and established a camp behind the beach. They had been training at PapakuraArmy Camp, and after final leave were waiting to disembark for overseas service. Theyand later units held training exercises in the area. On one occasion they terrified Mrs.Bessie Duder and her fishing companion Mrs. Ngeungeu Zister by firing their rifles intothe vicinity in which the two women were fishing. On another occasion wellremembered by the Duder family, a Vickers machine gun was set up at night on theMaraetai Road and fired across the Bay at a target erected at Sandy Bay.

Then without warning the RNZAF No. 1 Airfield Construction Unit arrived on the Duderproperty in May 1942. They announced that under wartime regulations, a seaplane base

43


was to be constructed in the bay immediately inside Whakakaiwhara Point, and that twofighter airstrips were to be constructed on the flats. These installations were stated to bevital components of Nation's defences against the Japanese attack which was seen asimminent after the Fall of Singapore on February 15 1942. The seaplane base was to bean underground facility with a concrete entrance ramp extending along the entire bay.The installation was also to include several water supply dams, and a number of gunemplacements were to be built on the Peninsula.

The Construction Unit of about 35 men immediately set about establishing a camp in thearea that is now the entrance to the Regional Park. They erected approximately a dozenwooden framed tents as accommodation, and constructed a large Cookhouse - Messbuilding. The Unit then set about constructing a metalled access road from the NorthRoad, along what is now the Regional Park access road to Duck Bay, and on around thecoast to the site of the proposed seaplane base. Work began on what became known asthe 'Air Force Road' in the winter of 1942. The Unit's three bulldozers, tracked loaderand trucks, became hopelessly bogged down in the mud behind Duck Bay. After nearly ayears work the road had been constructed only as far as the Quarry site located justbeyond Duck Bay. It had been metalled only as far as the First Gully gate using metalfrom a quarry on the Burgoyne property in North Road, Clevedon. As the tide of theWar turned, the seaplane base was no longer a priority and the project was abandonedwithout notice.

In 1944 the Air Force again arrived on the Duder property without warning andannounced that they intended to build a rocket range to be used for training purposes bythe two Ranger Fighter Squadrons based at Ardmore. Most of the structures for thisrange were constructed on what is now Bill Duder's farm that adjoins the southern sideof the Park access road, or out on the tidal flats. These structures included a line ofwooden flight markers, a concreted and sandbagged observation post, and rocket andmachine gun targets set up beyond the coastal shell bank. In the Park itself a ControlTower was constructed on the slopes above the 'Pit Paddock'.

The activities of the Ranger Squadrons were disruptive to farming as the trainingexercises were held without warning. The sound of the lowflying Corsair aircraft, andthe firing of their eight 2 inch rockets and 5 m.m. machine guns were exciting for thechildren at the Clevedon North School. However the noise frightened stock and made itparticularly difficult to operate the working horse teams that were then still in use. Theactivities of the Construction Unit were also disruptive to the smooth running of thefarm, but they did bring some long term benefits.

There was now an all weather access road from North Road out to the northern end ofDuck Bay. At the request of Willie Duder the Air Force bulldozers had also cut accesstracks off this road. The formation of these new farm roads created better access to theSecond Ridge and Gully paddocks, and also via the 'Burma Road' to the Point. At theend of the War the roading work undertaken by the Air Force was assessed as part of thecompensation that was negotiated with the Government. It was also agreed that WillieDuder could retain the Cookhouse - Messroom as a farm building. Jack Duder modified

44


the kitchen area for use as an implement shed and the messroom was utilised for haystorage. This building remained in use until it was demolished in 1970 after its malthoidroof disintegrated. The Regional Park entrance road is still referred to as the 'Air ForceRoad' and the paddock it passes through is known as 'Cookhouse Paddock' as a reminderof those troubled times.

In March 1946 Willie Duder subdivided the Whakakaiwhara Block into two farm unitsfor the first time. The subdivision was a formalisation of the leases that had been held byJack and Fred Duder since 1939-40. Lot 6 of 523 acres including the Peninsula was nowleased to Jack Duder, while Lot 7 of 115 acres lying at the southern end of the Block wasleased to Fred Duder who farmed it in conjunction with his original 'Waitiro' property.

At the time of this subdivision Willie Duder also cut off four beach front sections atDuder's Beach to ensure that all of his children could retain an association with thefamily farm and the beach. Jack Duder's allotment included the cottage that had beenbuilt for him and his wife Bessie in 1929, while his brothers and sisters had to build theirown beach homes. Steve Duder retired to his beach allotment which he occupied for 25years until he moved to Dunedin to live with his son Bruce. His property was later soldto Manukau City. Fred Duder still retains his beach cottage, while Molly Blundell'ssection has now been a Manukau City Reserve and Carpark for fifteen years. Title to allof these allotments, including the main farm, was transferred in July 1954 followingWilliam Duder's death in 1953.

During World War JJ Jack Duder resumed the development of what is now the RegionalPark. In 1943-44 the top of Second Gully was ploughed and disced, and a fence wasconstructed along the main ridge and east to Malua Bay. Then in 1945-46 'Herb'sPaddock' above the western end of Malua Bay.was ploughed and stumped. This paddocktook its name from Herb Porteous who constructed a holiday bach in the south easterncorner of the paddock around 1950. He had camped on the property with his wife Rayduring weekends from the late 1940s and had originally stayed in an army hut sitedbehind Duck Bay.

The development of 'Herb's Paddock' was a major undertaking using a single furrowplough pulled by a two horse team. Because of the difficulty posed by the number ofpuriri roots and stumps that were encountered, only two furrows could be ploughed onthe most difficult days. Discing was done both with the horse team and the newlyacquired Farmhall H tractor. Pasture improvement in this paddock followed a patternthat was typical of that used in the development of the Peninsula. After it had beencultivated, the paddock was fertilised using blood and bone and super, and then plantedin a fodder crop. In this case 'Herb's Paddock' was planted in swedes, carrots, cabbagesand peas. A bumper crop was produced, with the largest swedes weighing up to 52 Ibs.After vegetables had been collected by the Duder family and given out around thedistrict, the crop was break fed to wethers using netting. The paddock was then sown inpermanent pasture using 40 pounds of seed per acre.

45


The seed mixture favoured by Jack Duder featured Italian Short rotation, HI rye andwhite clover and subterranean clover. The rye varieties cross pollinated and came to berecognised as an excellent drought resistant strain for dry coastal hill country. The'South Point Paddock' was then developed using .a similar process in 1947, as were the'Sandy Bay' and 'Hay' Paddocks in 1948. The fencing programme also continued, witha fence being run from the main ridge to the Yellow Rocks in 1947. In 1948 a fence wasrun from Second Ridge back to The Quinces' Paddock, and The Point' was fenced off.

The holiday bach built in 'Herb's Paddock in c. 1950 by Herb Porteous

In 1949 Ian Duder left school and joined his brother John and his father Jack on the farm.At this time his youngest brothers Bill and Richard were still at school. John left thefarm soon after to work for a Friesian breeder at Taupiri and then went sharemilking onvarious properties until he settled on his own farm in the Dargaville area. Ian Duder'sfirst job on leaving school was to build a fence from the 'House Paddock' along the topof the First Ridge to the Air Force Road. This fence was built using heavy puriri poststhat had been railed to Papakura from Okaihau. They were the first wooden fence poststhat had been used on the farm for some time as they had been impossible to procureduring the war years.

A feature of the fencing programme on the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula 1938-1947, hadbeen the use of reinforced concrete posts and strainers made by Jack Duder. Initially hemade seven posts every Saturday morning on the beach near the house. The posts weremade in home made wooden moulds using sand from the beach and shingle collectedfrom the northern side of the Peninsula in a 12 ft. dinghy. The moulds were later shiftedto the cowshed and a batch of posts were made after milking every evening. Someconcrete posts were also poured in situ where internal fences ended on the coastline and

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PADDOCK NAMES - WHAKAKAIWHARA PENINSULA

Dred,ge Green HillYellow Rocks

North Point

he Airstrip

second Cully

bond Ridge

Cookhouse

first CullyEnd of Hill

Paddock

South Point

Water Tank

The Totaras

C.J.M. 1996


the problem of preventing stock from getting around the end of the fences at low tide hadto be overcome.

The original coast to coast fence built in 1938 had incorporated puriri posts runningdown the beach to beyond the low tide mark. Several of these posts can still be seen atthe top of the beach at Sandy Bay today nearly sixty years after they were put in. Thefirst good northerly storm had however undermined and destroyed the beach section ofthe fence soon after it was built. Following that, a dog leg was incorporated at thenorthern end of the fence so that it ran out onto the rocks at the western end of SandyBay. Post holes were excavated into the rock with crowbars and puriri posts wereconcreted into place. Split kanuka rails were then wired to the puriri posts. Thefastenings soon however corroded in the salt water, and sea worm ate the puriri posts offat the base.

When the next fence was run out to the northern coastline at the Yellow Rocks, Jack andIan Duder poured concrete posts on the rock platform out to the lowest tidal mark.Although this fence has been removed these posts can still be seen at low tide. With theadvent of tanalised pine posts Ian began building the tidal sections of the coastal fenceswith treated pine posts concreted into the rock and tanalised 6x2 rails fastened withheavy galvanised bridge spikes. This system worked well, although the posts in thelower tidal area were still being destroyed by sea worm. With the introduction of marinetanalised posts this problem has been largely overcome.

By 1950 the Peninsula had been subdivided into six paddocks making stock managementa great deal easier than it had been previously. A water supply dam had been constructedby hand at the head of First Gully in 1944 however the lack of stock water in dry periodswas to remain-a problem on the Peninsula until the installation of a fully reticulatedsupply in the 1970s. Access to this part of the farm had been greatly improved as a resultof the road work undertaken by the Air Force, although all fencing materials, fertilizerand stock food were still transported by horse and sledge. In 1947 access to the mainfarm buildings was also greatly improved with the construction of a bridge across the TeKuiti Stream.

For many years the only access across the tidal inlet had been via a 15 inch wide kauriplank located on trestles. Then in the 1930s access was improved slightly when an earthembankment was built out from the southern side of the channel using a shovel andwheelbarrow. A narrow wooden bridge was then constructed over the channel on severalstringers. This crossing was still only suitable for foot access, with the cream cans beingbrought over to the Dairy Factory's cream truck in a wheelbarrow. All material landedon the beach was still sledged up North Road, across the culvert, and through the Maorisettlement to get to the farm buildings.

In 1947 Jack Duder decided to construct a crossing that would provide permanent accessover the Te Kuiti Stream for both trucks and the farm's horse drawn vehicles. The oldembankment was extended and widened using clay trucked from cuttings on the MaraetaiCoast Road. The foundations and abutments for the bridge were then boxed and poured

48


using hand mixed concrete. This work was carried out by Jack himself, although he wasassisted by his own and other children who were camping at Duder's Beach during the1947 Polio Epidemic. Railway lines were then placed across the bridge span and atimber deck was installed. After eighty years the Duder family finally had vehicularaccess between the house and the farm buildings. Access was further improved in 1970when Ian Duder installed the present bridge which featured prestressed concrete beamsand abutments, and a hand rail.

K.*?<C.V"$fe

The Farmall M Tractor and the trailer mounted Gallagher lime spreader above Sandy Bayin 1955. This tractor played an important role in the development of the Peninsula.

Richard Duder is to the right of the trailer. (I. Duder)

The viability of the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula as a dry stock unit had improved as aresult of the development work undertaken by Jack Duder and his sons. As with allmarginal hill country farms its viability was however to be dramatically increased in the1950s with the introduction of aerial topdressing and the subsequent improvement inpasture quality. In 1952 an airstrip was constructed on Fred Duder's property to thesouth of what is now the Regional Park. Two veteran Tiger Moth aircraft were then usedto topdress the Peninsula with superphosphate. Each plane could only carry small loadsin what was a slow and messy process that involved a lot of manual loading work. From1955 purpose built Fletcher topdressing aircraft flew larger loads from an improved stripon the flats.

In 1961 the present airstrip was constructed on the ridge immediately to the north east ofDuck Bay using a dozer and farm tractors. In 1970 the efficiency of aerial topdressingoperations on the Peninsula was further improved when a concrete fertilizer bin was

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constructed at the top of the airstrip. This strip has now been used successfully for 35years with only one minor mishap. This occurred in 1975 when an Air Truck topdressingaircraft flipped on the airstrip after suffering engine failure over the 'First Ridge*. Theaircraft was damaged however the pilot fortunately emerged unscathed.

In 1950 a new cowshed was built, and soon after this the first farm building was erectedon the Peninsula. It was a hay barn that was constructed above the eastern end of DuckBay. Until 1958 hay had always been cut on the flats where it was stacked into haycocksand then dragged by a horse team to a mobile bailer which operated throughout thedistrict. From this time however, hay was cut on the Peninsula as the pastures improvedas a result of aerial topdressing. Hay was initially cut in 'Herb's Paddock' and then inthe paddock that became known as the 'Hay Paddock'. In order to store this hay asecond bam was built at the top of the 'Burma Road' out to the Point; and in 1965 a thirdbarn was constructed at 'the Kowhais' beside the 'Hay Paddock'. Pasture improvementalso continued in this period with the 'Fern Paddock' above Malua Bay being dozerdisced and resown in 1958. Then in 1959 the top part of the 'North Point Paddock'wasdisced and the lower part was ploughed. The bulldozing work was parried out by a localcontractor Ernie Keene who was from an old Beachlands farming family.

In 1958 a brief description of the Whakakaiwhara Block was included in G. A. Tail's"Farms and Stations of New Zealand." In this account Jack Duder's 540 acre farm wasreferred to as 'Moata'. This name, which refers to 'the dawn,' was adopted by JackDuder as the registered herd name for his pedigree Friesian stud and it came to be appliedto the farm. 'Moata' was noted as carrying, "40 pedigree Friesian cows plus young stockand 60 Aberdeen Angus beef cattle, as well as 1000 Romney ewes and 250 ewe hoggets."(Tait 1958: 281) Wool continued to provide the single most important source of incomefor the farm. The flock was now mainly shorn by Ian Duder using the present three standCooper Stewart plant which replaced the old Lister shearing plant in 1958. Fat lambsand older ewes were sold directly to Hellaby's Westfield Freezing Works. In the early1950s the cattle were brought in as yearlings and sold as rising three year olds to theWestfield Works. Then from the mid 1950s until the 1970s a herd of 60 AberdeenAngus cows were crossed with a Hereford bull and the progeny were sold as yearlings atthe Opaheke Sale.

Jack Duder's pedigree Friesian herd was built up in part from Fred Duder's 'Waitiro'stud which contained some of the highest producing Friesians in New Zealand. In themain however the 'Moata' stud was developed using heifers and bulls purchased from the'Mahoe' stud in the Manawatu. In the early 1950s cream was still separated on the farmand sold to the old Clevedon Dairy Factory, and then from around 1958 whole milk waspicked up by tanker by the East Tamaki Dairy Co-op Factory.

In 1960 Jack Duder began to plan for his retirement and for the future of his children.John the eldest as stated earlier was working elsewhere and Margaret Duder had marriedin 1955 and left home. Ian had married Mary Jones of Clevedon in 1954 and had beenworking fulltime on the farm for a decade. Bill had married in 1958 and was working asa motor mechanic in Clevedon, and Richard who had recently left school was helping on

50


the farm. In 1962-63 Jack Duder cut the farm into three units which were purchased byhis sons Ian, Richard and Bill. The homestead area was cut off and made part of a 370acre sheep and beef unit which was taken up by Ian Duder and his wife Mary. JackDuder had purchased the 66 acre Maraetai Nol North Block from James Bell in 1960,thus enabling him to subdivide the flats into two adjoining 110 acre dairy units. Thenorthern block which retained the name of 'Moata' was taken up by Richard Duder andthe southern block was taken up by Bill Duder. On Fred Duder's retirement the'Waitiro' property was taken over by his son Brian.

The Duder farm in 1958. At the far left is the Duder homestead 'Rozel' and in the rightforeground is the cottage built in 1929 for Jack and Bessie Duder. On the skyline is thepine tree planted by Willie Duder and his grandsons Ian and John in 1936.

Thus the former Whakakaiwhara Block, and the adjoining blocks that had beenpurchased subsequently, were now being fanned as four separate farm units. The areathat makes up the Regional Park was now being fanned as a separate unit for the firsttime. Ian Duder was to spend the next thirty two years of his life working single-handedly to develop the property into one of the highest producing coastal hill countryunits in the district. With two mortgages and a young family Ian and Mary faced adaunting task in making the farm a viable business success. A vital contribution wasmade by Mary who returned to teaching for twenty years until 1984.

In the early 1960s the cultivation of the Peninsula was completed. The 'Green Hills', thelower 'Totaras,' and part of the 'House' Paddocks were ploughed and disced in 1960-61.

51

IIIIiIIIIIIIII1IIIII

The 'Airstrip' Paddock was then ploughed and partly disced in 1962. In the 1960s and1970s the productivity of the farm increased as part of a nation wide process that hasbeen referred to as the 'Grasslands Revolution.' This was the result of aerial topdressing,the introduction of more effective weed control methods and the Rabbit Board's shootingprogramme. The Peninsula's improved pasture was now more effectively utilised asrotational grazing was introduced and further fencing was carried out. In 1963 a littleclifftop paddock was cut off below the Hay Paddock. It was named the 'DredgePaddock' after the hulk of the old Me Callum Bros, shingle dredge that had sunk off thenorthern coast of the Peninsula in c. 1938.

'v:'.V..»«: •,'•* Vf'-KV-x

. ..*"-' .t*t.~f%l

Jack and Bessie Duder and their children photographed at a Duder family reunion held in1980. Standing from left: Richard Duder, Bill Duder, Ian Duder and John Duder.Sitting from left: Bessie Duder, Jack Duder and Margaret Pallister (nee Duder).(I. Duder)

In 1968 the Point was subdivided into the 'North Point' and 'South Point' Paddocks, .thuscompleting the fencing programme that Jack Duder had begun on the Peninsula thirtyyears earlier. The carrying capacity of the property had increased in 1955 when a damwas constructed in the Tern Paddock' by Newbury Bros, of Clevedon. It was thendramatically improved in 1970 when a reticulated water supply system was introduced.Water was pumped to a tank located on the ridge near the Trig from a new bore sunknear the Woolshed by a local contractor Les Carl. From the tank it was gravity fed totroughs located all over the Peninsula, meaning that stock water was available in allpaddocks throughout the year.

A feature of the management of the Peninsula in this period was the planting of exoticwoodlots to control erosion and to provide timber for the farm, as well as the fencing of

52

1IIIIIIIItI1tItI1III

indigenous forest remnants. Jack Duder had planted several small pinus radiata woodlotsin 1949 in scrubland above the coast east of Duck Bay and also near Sandy Bay. IanDuder continued the policy established by his great grandfather William of preserving thestands of indigenous forest on the property. This included the 'Big Bush' which islocated above the western end of Duck Bay. This outstanding coastal tawa forestremnant, which includes a particularly large kauri, had been preserved from timberextraction by the Duder family since 1866. The 'Big Bush' was ring fenced by IanDuder in 1969, at which time a macrocarpa woodlot was planted on its eastern edgeabove the 'Air Force Road.'.

In 1975 Ian Duder planted a small stand of pines to the north east of the old farm quarry.They were planted to provide timber for farm use, and have been thinned for posts andstrainers. In the 1980s several woodlots were planted with the assistance of a fencingsubsidy from the ARA Regional Water Board as part of a NWASCA scheme. Theyincluded poplars which were planted on the western slopes of the erosion prone 'FirstRidge' and in 'Second Gully'; and a woodlot of Tasmanian Blackwood planted between'Green Hill' and the 'South Point Paddock'. While these trees were.planted primarily forerosion control purposes, the fencing of the latter area ensured the preservation ofanother fine stand of kauri forest. Coastal pohutukawa have also been carefullypreserved by the Duder family over the years, although they have suffered some seriousdamage as a result of fires left by uninvited visitors and campers.

On the death of Jack Duder in 1982 the title to Allotment 6 was formally transferred toIan Duder using the company name of Umupuia Farms Ltd. By this time developmentwork had been completed on the Peninsula and farm production was at peak capacity. Aflock of around 1500 Romney sheep was carried including 1100 ewes, 480 hoggets and15 rams. Major improvements in lambing percentages had been achieved by Ian Duder.He had also achieved a significant improvement in the quality, consistency and weight ofthe wool clip which was still the single most important source of farm income. Theseimprovements came about through keeping all twin ewe lambs and through the use ofmore open faced and easy care rams purchased from Masterton, Wellsford, and finallyfrom Rex Alexander's Auckland Romney Development Group central flock at Puni.

In the 1980s farm production on the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula was very high for acoastal hill country block of its type. Lambing percentages had stabilised at between 105and 112 per cent, while an average of 60 kgs of wool per ha. and 200 kg of meat per ha.were being produced. At this time the property carried around 130 cattle including 65breeding cows with a calving percentage generally in excess of 90%. 1987 was the mostproductive year in the property's history. That year the farm carried 143 cattle and 1695sheep with a lambing percentage of 112 per cent and a wool clip of 11096 kgs. In spiteof achieving this high level of production the fanning of the block became increasinglydifficult. Real income from the farm declined in this period as a result of low meat andwool prices, increasing local body rates, high interest rates and the removal ofgovernment subsidies. In 1988 Cyclone Bola struck the property causing some majorslipping in 'First Gully' and necessitating the removal of the old row of pines on theforeshore near the homestead.

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From the 1970s Ian and Mary Duder had begun to receive offers from developers topurchase the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula which was now viewed as being prime coastalreal estate in close proximity to Auckland. Their son Rob had completed University andwanted to take up farming in his own right, so the sale of the farm had to be seriouslyconsidered. Ian and Mary were not however prepared to consider offers which involvedthe subdivision of the property or the compromising of its environmental values. Thestewardship of the land which had been in the family for so long always remaineduppermost in their minds.

Ian and Mary Duder photographed in front of 'Rozel'in 1980. (I. Duder)

In 1975 the ARA Regional Parks Division briefly investigated the possibility of acquiringthe Whakakaiwhara Peninsula for regional parks purposes. The idea was howeverrejected by the ARA Regional Parks Committee on the grounds that the beaches were notsuitable and that there was no suitable area for a carpark. A decade later Wilkins &Davies Ltd. approached the Ian and Mary Duder with a proposal to construct a marina atDuck Bay. A feasibility study for the project, including survey and test drilling work

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was undertaken, however the project was dropped following the New Zealandsharemarket crash of 1987.

Ian Duder continued to farm the property into the 1990s on his own, although he reducedsheep numbers and increased the number of beef cattle as he neared retirement. In 1990Ian and Mary Duder hosted a Duder family reunion at 'Rozel'. It was held for three daysover Easter to celebrate the 150 th anniversary of Thomas Duder's arrival in NewZealand and the sesquicentennial of the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi. Two hundredand fifty members of the Duder family attended, and a plaque was erected on a largestone in front of 'Rozel' to commemorate the Duder family's association with theWhakakaiwhara Block.

In 1994 Ian and Mary Duder once again considered the future of the property. It was notplaced on the open market but was offered to the Auckland Regional Council as had beendone twenty years earlier. At the urging of the Regional Parks Committee ChairmanMike Lee, the ARC Regional Parks Service once again investigated the possibility ofacquiring the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula as a regional park. The purchase was negotiatedin early 1994 and was approved by the ARC Regional Parks Committee in September1994. Ian and Mary Duder agreed to the sale of the property to the ARC as it wouldallow the special values of the Peninsula to be retained for the benefit of futuregenerations. The ARC took over management of the 148.2 ha. property on March 11995. Ian and Mary Duder retained the area around 'Rozel' the home mat has been animportant focal point for the descendants of Thomas and Margaret Duder for one and ahalf centuries.

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APPENDIX I Maori Placenames

Umupuia -This name literally means the 'steaming earth oven'. The name is associated withfighting among the subtribal groups of Uri o Pou in the mid 1700s and the origin of thehapu known as 'Ngati Kohua'. (R.N. Zister 1987) The name 'Umupuia1 traditionallyapplied to a specific area located to the north of the present day Ngai Tai urupa locatedtwo kilometres to the west of the regional park. It later came to apply to the pa andkainga established there by Ngai Tai in the late 1830s, and to the beach that is oftenreferred to today as 'Duder's Beach'.

TeKuitiThis name applies to the steam which rises on the south eastern slopes of the hill knownas Pukekawa, and flows north east and enters the sea on the north western edge of theWhakakaiwhara Peninsula. 'Te Kuiti' literally means 'the narrowing or confinement'. Ithas its origin in the narrow and confined nature of the tidal reaches of the Te KuitiStream. The name was also applied to the Ngai Tai settlement that was located on thesandy flats behind the eastern end of Umupuia Beach.

WaiapuThis is the traditional name for the bay on the northern side of the WhakakaiwharaPeninsula that is generally referred to today as 'Sandy Bay'. It takes its name from the'expansive* nature of the bay.

OturiaThis is the traditional name for the hill that is referred to today as 'The Trig1. The nametakes its origin from the fact the this hill is a 'prominent and upstanding' vantage point,and the 'highest1 point on the Peninsula.

WharewhanakeThis is the traditional name for the area generally referred to today as The Totaras'. Itwas an old seasonal occupation site named from the 'whare' or traditional Maori housesthatched with the coarse leaves of the 'whanake' variety of the cabbage tree.

Te KauereThis is the traditional name for the small bay located immediately north east of SandyBay. The name is thought to apply to a 'puriri tree' which was a landmark in thevicinity.

Te KakakaThis name traditionally applied to the area of coastline known generally referred to asThe Yellow Rocks'. 'Kakaka' is thought to apply to the 'brownish' colour of the rocksand beach gravel in this area.

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RauporoaThis is the traditional name for the small stream and gully located on the northern side ofthe Peninsula to the west of the Point. The name originates from the tract of 'tall raupo'which once grew in this gully.

TokamaiThis is the traditional name for the bay located on the northern side of the Peninsulaimmediately west of the Point itself. The name originates from the 'landing placeformed by the flat rock platform' found in this area.

Huna a TaneThis is the traditional name for an unlocated spot in the vicinity of Whakakaiwhara Pointitself. It was the name for the karaka tree planted by Tane Whakatia a crew member ofthe Tainui canoe which called at Whakakaiwhara Point in the fourteenth century. Thetree was said to have grown out of a rock fissure, and to have still been in existence in themid nineteenth century. The name simply means the 'tree of (or planted by) Tane'.

WhakakaiwharaAs explained in the text of this history the name 'Whakakaiwhara' originated when theTainui canoe visited the Peninsula in the fourteenth century. The crew of the Tainuiwent ashore on the southern side of the Point and ate a meal harvested from the fruits ofthe luxuriant coastal forest that then clothed the land. From this action came thetraditional name 'Whaka-kai-whara' which literally means 'the act of eating the ediblebracts of the kiekie vine' and other edible plants. The name Whakakaiwhara appliesspecifically to the Point and generally to the entire Peninsula. It was the name given tothe entire 600 acre (243 ha.) Maori land block which Thomas Duder purchased from theNgai Tai chief Hori Te Whetuki in 1866. The Regional Park includes a 148.2 ha. portionof the original Whakakaiwhara Block.

TararahiThis is the traditional name for the hillock which stands immediately inland ofWhakakaiwhara Pa. The name literally means the 'prominent pointed peak'.

Te Tauranga o TainuiThis is the traditional name for the large bay located on the southern side ofWhakakaiwhara Point. It means'the anchoring place of the Tainui canoe'. It was in thisbay that the Tainui canoe sought shelter and anchored during a storm in the fourteenthcentury.

Te WharauThis is the traditional name for the bay that is generally referred to today as 'Malua Bay'.The narrow flat behind the beach was used until the 1850s as a seasonal occupation siteby Ngai Tai while they were fishing and gathering shellfish in the area. Here theyerected temporary shelters, hence the name 'Te Wharau' or the 'temporary shelter*.

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WaipokaiaThis is the traditional name for what is today generally referred to as 'Duck Bay'. Theorigin of the name lies both in the flocks of birds that traditionally inhabited the bay andin the practice of burying the dead in the vicinity. (R.N. Zister 1987)

MawherawheraThis is the traditional name for the 'extensive flats' that lie on the south western edge ofthe regional park. There was a Ngai Tai settlement of this name located to the west of TeOue Pa near what is now the North Road.

TeOueThis is the name of the large Ngai Tai Pa located on the south eastern edge of theWhakakaiwhara Block. The name is said to have originated from 'oue' which a veryspecial variety of flax known as 'oue'. It was used to weave garments for the rangatira ofthe tribe and was symbolic of chiefly mana or prestige. (R.N. Zister 1987)

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APPENDIX II European Placenames(Compiled from information provided by Ian and Fred Duder, April 1996)

Duder's BeachThis is the European name for Umupuia Beach. It is named after the Duder family whohave lived at the eastern end of the beach since 1866. The name came into commonusage from the early 1900s.

RozelThis is the name given to the Duder family homestead constructed in 1890 by MessrsEvans and Davis. The house was named after Jannett Duder's childhood home of'Rozel1 located at Fort George on the island of Guernsey.

Snapper BayThis is the little bay located just east of the Te Kuiti Stream mouth. It was a favouritesnapper fishing spot for the Duder family from the nineteenth century.

The TotarasThis name applies to a grove of totara trees growing in a gully located between SnapperBay and Sandy Bay. Its traditional name is Wharewhanake.

Sandy BayThis bay is located just to the east of the Te Kuiti Stream on the northern side of theWhakakaiwhara Peninsula. It takes its name from the fact that it is one of the few bayson the Peninsula that has a Sandy Beach. Its traditional Maori name is 'Waiapu'.

The TrigThis is the high point and trig station located on the main ridge inland of Sandy Bay. At85 metres the Trig' is the highest point on the Peninsula. It has been used as a surveypoint since 1865. Its traditional Maori name is Oturia.

The Yellow RocksThis group of rocks is located on the foreshore on the northern side of theWhakakaiwhara Peninsula approximately one kilometre west of Whakakaiwhara Point.They take their name from the distinctive yellow colour of the rocks. The traditionalMaori name is Te Kakaka.

The KowhaisThis place name applies to the grove of mature kowhai trees growing beside the hay shedat the eastern end of the 'Hay Paddock'.

Green milThis is the name of the hill located to the east of the Hay Paddock. Its name originatesfrom the fact that its green pasture and bush forms a prominent landmark when viewedfrom the south.

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The PointThis is simply the common European name for Whakakaiwhara Point.

Baffle PointThis is the oldest European name for Whakakaiwhara Point. The name comes from thefact that the Point acts like a baffle in providing shelter from northerly winds for boatsanchoring on the southern side of the Peninsula. Wind conditions around the WairoaRiver mouth are heavily influenced by the Peninsula.

The Burma RoadThis name applies to the steep section of farm road extending from the hill above the'Fern Paddock' to the hay shed to the west of the Point. It was built by Air Forcebulldozers in 1942. It takes its name from the 'Burma Road' in South East Asia that wasin the news at the time it was constructed.

Horseshoe BayThis small bay is located 500 metres to the south west of the Point on the southern side ofthe Peninsula. Its name originates from the fact that it is shaped like a horseshoe. It isalso known as Queen Mary Bay.

Queen Mary BayThis is another name for Horseshoe Bay that was used by the Duder family from the1930s. In this period Dick Waterhouse the brother in law of Jack Duder kept a small flatbottomed punt in this bay for fishing. This punt was jokingly referred to as the 'QueenMary' and the bay where it was kept became known as 'Queen Mary Bay'.

Gamlen's RockThis is a small rock located on the foreshore 100 metres west of the southern end ofHorseshoe Bay. It takes its name from a Mr. Gamlen. He was a keen fisherman whofished from this rock on a regular basis in the early 1900s.

Malua BayThis bay is located on the southern side of the Peninsula midway between Duck Bay andthe Point. It takes its name from the yacht 'Malua' which was stolen from its mooringsin Auckland in December 1887 and abandoned on the beach at Malua Bay.

Bailey's HammockThis name applies to the two large poplar trees growing beside the beach at Malua Bay.They grew from two poplar poles driven into the ground in the 1910s by a member ofBailey family who were well known boatbuilders and yachtsmen. The poles wereerected to support a hammock and the two trees that grew from them became known as'Bailey's Hammock.'

Snapper RockThis name applies to the rocky reef which is located at the southern end of Malua Bay. Itwas a favourite spot from which to fish for snapper hence its name 'Snapper Rock'.

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The QuarryThis quarry is located just to the north east of Duck Bay at the eastern end of the roadconstructed by the Air Force in 1942. The quarry was opened by the Duder family in theearly 1950s to provide metal for use on the farm.

Duck BayThis large bay is located on the south western edge of the Whakakaiwhara Peninsula. Ittakes its name from the ducks which were always found in profusion on its foreshore andadjoining swampy flats. Its traditional Maori name is Waipokaia.

Humps and HollowsThis area lies inland of Duck Bay on the southern side of the Peninsula. These swampyflats were first drained in the late nineteenth century. The name 'humps and hollows'refers to the drainage system installed in the paddock by Brian Duder using a tractor andgrader blade in c. 1960.

The Big BushThis is the outstanding coastal tawa forest remnant that is located to the west of DuckBay. It has a canopy of tawa, taraire, puriri and karaka, and contains a very large kauri.It has a mid tier of mahoe, hangehange, kohekohe, karaka, ponga and mamaku over aground cover of ferns and saplings. It was identified as a Recommended Area forProtection as the best and only example of its vegetation type in the Hunua EcologicalDistrict in 1989. The 'Big Bush* has been preserved throughout the Duder family'sstewardship of the land and has been ring fenced since 1969.

The Air Force RoadThis is the road constructed by the Air Force between the North Road in 1942. It is nowthe main access road to the regional park.

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APPENDIX III Paddock Names(Compiled from information supplied by Ian Duder.)

The Quinces PaddockThis small paddock is located to the east of the former cowshed. It takes its name fromthe quince trees located on its western edge. They are remnants of the orchard planted byWilliam and Jannett Duder in the 1870s.

House PaddockThis is a small holding paddock located across the Te Kuiti Stream from the Homesteadand to the north east of the Quinces Paddock. It was partly ploughed and disced in theearly 1960s.

The Holes PaddockThis is the steep paddock located on the western side of the First Ridge immediatelysouth of the House Paddock. It takes its name from the 'tomos' or sinkholes which occurin the paddock.

The Totaras PaddockThis paddock is located on the northern coastline of the Peninsula between the headlandabove the eastern side of the Te Kuiti Stream mouth and the Trig. It takes its name fromthe grove of mature totara trees located on a natural terrace in the middle of the paddock.The lower portion of this paddock was ploughed and disced in 1960-61.

The Water Tank PaddockThis paddock is located between the eastern edge of House Paddock and the coast tocoast fence erected in 1938. It takes its name from the Water Tank erected on its highestpoint when a reticulated water supply was installed in 1970.

End of Hill PaddockThis is the large paddock located on the southern end of the First Ridge.

First Gully PaddockThis paddock is located in the first gully to the east of the First Ridge.

Second Ridge PaddockThis paddock is located on the second north-south running ridge on the Peninsula. It islocated north of Duck Bay on the eastern side of First Gully, and to the south of theWatertank Paddock. It was ploughed by local Maori in the 1890s.

Sandy Bay PaddockThis large north facing paddock lies inland of the sandy bay from which it takes its name.The lower part of it was ploughed in 1948.

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Second Gully PaddockThis large, steep paddock lies to the east of the Second Ridge. The top of this paddockwas ploughed and disced in 1943-44.

Airstrip PaddockThis large paddock lies to the north east of Duck Bay. It takes its name from the airstripdeveloped within it for aerial topdressing in 1961.

Herb's PaddockThis large paddock is to the north of the Airstrip Paddock and to the west of Malua Bay.It was ploughed and stumped in 1945-46. It takes its name from the fact that HerbPorteous built a holiday bach in the south eastern comer of the paddock around 1950.

Green Hill PaddockThis paddock lies to the east of the Hay Paddock on the high point known as Green Hill.

The Hay PaddockThis paddock is a relatively small north facing paddock of easy contour. It is located tothe east of the Sandy Bay Paddock and to the north west of Green Hill. It was ploughedin 1948. This paddock has been the main hay paddock on die farm since 1960.

The Dredge PaddockThis small paddock is located on the northern coastline of the Peninsula to the north ofthe hay paddock. It was fenced in 1963. It takes its name from the Me Callum Bros,shingle dredge which sank off this part of the coast while under tow to the breakers yardin c. 1938.

The Yellow Rocks PaddockThis steep paddock is located on the northern coast of the Peninsula between the DredgePaddock and the North Point Paddock. It takes its name from the distinctive yellowrocks located on the foreshore.

The Fern PaddockThis relatively steep paddock lies inland and to the north of Malua Bay. It was dozerdisced in 1958. It takes its name from the bracken fern which grew in the paddockbefore it was developed.

North Point PaddockThis paddock is located on the northern side of the Point. The lower part of the paddockwas ploughed and the upper part disced in 1959. It was fenced off from the South PointPaddock in 1968.

South Point PaddockThis paddock is located on the southern side of the Point. It was ploughed in 1947 andfenced off from the North Point Paddock in 1968.

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The Pit PaddockThis small paddock is located immediately to the east of the present car park at theeastern end of Cookhouse Paddock. It takes its name from the ensilage pit that waslocated in the paddock.

The Cow PaddockThis small flat paddock is located to the south of the Pit Paddock on the southern edge ofthe regional park. Being low lying and having a high water table it provided an excellentsummer paddock for the Duder family dairy herd in the early days. Thus it becameknown as the Cow Paddock.

Cookhouse PaddockThis is the small narrow paddock through which the park entrance road (Air Force Road)runs. It takes its name from the Cookhouse constructed beside the Air Force Road by theConstruction Squadron in 1942.

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November 1906 - Following the accidental death of William Thomas Duder on

•September 5 1906 Trustees to his estate (including the Whakakaiwhara Block)wereappointed. They included: Jannett Duder, Archibald McNicol, Gertrude Isabella Duderand Thomas John Duder.

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APPENDIX IV History of Land Ownership of the Whakakaiwhara Block 600 acres(243 ha.) as related to that land which now makes up the Regional Park.

November 18 1865 - The block was surveyed by D.L. Duffus at the request of Hori TeWhetuki on behalf of Ngai Tai.

March 7 1866 - Ownership of the Whakakaiwhara Block was investigated by the NativeLand Court at Thames by Judge Mackay.

April 121866 - A Crown Grant to the Block was awarded by Sir George Grey K.C.B. toHori Te Whetuki.

July 16 1866 - The Whakakaiwhara Block was sold to Thomas Duder for 422 pounds.

June 241875 - Transfer of Title from Thomas Duder to William Thomas Duder.

April 231934 - Gertrude Isabella Duder became the sole trustee for the estate of WilliamThomas Duder and the title to the Whakakaiwhara Block was transferred to Willie(William Thomas) Duder.

March .6 1946 - Willie Duder subdivided the Whakakaiwhara Block into Lot 6 of 523acres and Lot 7 of 115 acres. Four beach front sections each of 0.1.0 acres were alsosurveyed off. (The Regional Park comprises part of Lot 6)

• July 5 1954 - Title to Lot 6 (523 acres) was transferred to Jack Duder.

^ June 29 1882 - Title to Lot 6 was transferred to Umupuia Farms Ltd.

October 3 1995 - Title was transferred to The Auckland Regional Council.

The Maraetai No.l North BlockThe access road to the regional park is located on part of the Maraetai No. 1 North Block(66ac.3r.8p.) It was originally part of the Maraetai Block to which title had beenawarded by the Native Land Court to Hori Te Whetuki, Te Watene Makuru, ManiheraMaxwell and Honatana Te Irirangi on behalf of Ngai Tai. The Maraetai Block waspartitioned on June 12 1893. Title to Maraetai No.l was awarded to Riria Te Whetuki,Harata Te Whetuki, Rawiri Te Ua, Te Wana Te Ua, Te Arani Henare, Hera Henare andTe Okihi Henare.

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I• August 1905 - Maraetai No. 1 was partitioned into five blocks.

I August 4 1915 - A Partition Order to the Maraetai No. 1 North Block was awarded toPare and Hauwhenua Kirkwood.

g January 11 1916 - The Maraetai No. 1 North Block was sold to Fred Collins.

December 12 1919 - Title was transferred to Alexander Bell and Cunningham Atchison.

| August 18 1943 - Title was transferred to James Bell.

• August 9 1960 - Title was transferred to Jack Duder.

June 29 1982 - Title was transferred to Umupuia Farms Ltd.

• October 3 1995 - Title was transferred to The Auckland Regional Council.

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BIBLIOGRAPHY

Published Sources

Aitchison M. Clevedon Presbyterian Church 1858 -1958, 1958Ashby E. Phantom Fleet: the scows andscowmen of Auckland 1975Auckland Automobile Association Trips and Camping Spots Around Auckland 1926Barber L. New Zealand • A Short History 1989Campbell J.L. Poenamu 1881Campbell M.V. All Souls Church Clevedon, New Zealand 1861-1961, 1961Cyclopaedia of New Zealand Vol n Auckland Provincial District 1902Cowan J. The New Zealand Wars Vol I 1955Duder H. The Duders ofDevonport in the Auckland-Waikato Historical Journal No. 20

April 1972Drummond A. (ed) The Auckland Journals ofVicesimus Lush 1850-1843, 1971Evans B.L. A History of Agricultural Production and Marketing in New Zealand 1969Featon J. The Waikato War 1923Harsant W.J. Excavations at Oue Pa, N43/35, South Auckland in Records of the

Auckland Institute and Museum : 18Kelly L. Tainui - The Story ofHoturoa and his descendants 1949Laxon W. Steamers Down The Firth 1966Lennard M. The Road to War, the Great South Road 1862-1864, 1986Me Lauchlan G. The Farming of New Zealand - an illustrated history of New Zealand

Agriculture 1981Makiwhara A. Te Tuhi a Manawatere in G. Graham J.P.S Vol. 30Makiwhara A. Te Heke o Nga Tokotoru in G.Graham J.P.S. Vol. 31Maraetai School Committee The Magic ofMardetai - A History ofMaraetai School and

District 1981Munro C.C. Clevedon (late Wairoa South) Centennial 1852-1952, 1952Murdoch G.J. Historical Perspectives on the Lower Waikato and the Wairoa Valley 1988Murdoch G.J. A Brief History of the Human Occupation of the Hunua

CatchmentParkland (ARC Regional Parks Service) 1993Orange C. The Treaty ofWaitangi 1987Philson M. The Duder Family in New Zealand 1990Rodgers L. (ed) The Early Journals of Henry Williams, New Zealand 1826-1840, 1961Sexton R. H.M. S. Buffalo 1984Tait G.A. (ed) Farms and Stations of New Zealand Vol. II 1958Taua Te W. in La Roche A. The History ofHowick and Pakuranga 1991Taua Te W. Tainui Garden of Memories 1991The New Zealand Yachtsman (magazine) various 1909-1918The Weekly News (newspaper) May 27 1865, March 30 1867Tonson A.E. OldManukau 1966Turton H.H. Maori Deeds of Old Private Purchases in New Zealand 1815-1840, 1882Tyrrell M. et al Hunua Ecological District - Survey Prepared for the PNAP 1996White J. The Ancient History of the Maori Vol. V 1888Young A. The excavation of an undefended settlement at S11/108, Clevedon 1992

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Unpublished Sources

ARC Regional Parks Service Files (various)ARC Regional Parks Service Archaeological Sites • Umupuia Regional Park 1995Appendices to the Journals of the House of Representatives, Sheep Records 1891-1930Church Missionary Society Records Mission Books 7 & 11 (microfilm AUL)Deeds Registers, Certificates of Title, Deposited Plans, (various) Land Registry AucklandDuder B. An Interview with W.T. Duder, undated manuscript (held by Ian Duder)Duder W.T. Day Book 1875-1906 (a manuscript held by Ian Duder)Fairburn E. Maharatanga - Reminiscences 1901 NZMS 91 APLHilton M. Mapping Whakakaiwhara Pa 1979 (typescript held by Ian Duder)Kidd H. Computer Records - re the Wairoa River and the yachts 'Malua'and 'Lillian'Lawlor I.T. Archaeological Survey of Umupuia Regional Park September 1995Murdoch G. J. Cultural Influences on the Ecology of the Hunua Ecological District 1992Murdoch G. J. Mrtes of Interviews with Ian and Fred Duder 1996Native Land Court Minute Books Hauraki 1 (Whakakaiwhara) & 6 (Maraetai), Auckland

4, (Maraetai Partition)New Zealand Meat and Wool Board Sheep & Beef Farm Survey 1982-1993 (I. Duder)Puna H. Historical Notes of some famous War canoes of the Hauraki Tribes 1905

(translated by G. Graham, Ms. 120 M 13, AI & M LibraryOld Land Claim Files 589 - 590 Fairburn's Claim , DOSLI Auckland

MapsMaori Land Plans - Maraetai Block 1534,7794,10817,12939,14754,14452, 14586,

14625, Whakakaiwhara Block 123, Papepape Block 127 DOSLINZMS 1:25000 Series, Wairoa 1943Survey Ordinance Plans - 30672,43995,45852,47030,47851 DOSLISurvey Plan A515 Sketch of the River Thames New Zealand 1821 (Copy)Survey Plan of A Piece of Land Reserved for the Natives by Gov. FitzRoy at Maraetai

(copy held by Ian Duder)

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a history of the human occupation of the whakakaiwhara block 1996

Documents