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The Best of Ireland
At first glance, Ireland presents a familiar face to American visitors. The language isthe same, only more lyrical, the faces are familiar, the food recognizable, and even thebeer is well known. Many visitors, notably Irish-Americans, experience it as a kind ofhomecoming. It takes awhile for this superficial impression to wear off, but it will,because this is a unique country in its own right, a fact that becomes clearer the longeryou stay here. The impenetrable Gaelic language is increasingly prevalent, and in somecounties, road signs are exclusively in that language. This creates a kind of distance, afeeling of foreignness, that it seems many Irish do not mind cultivating. Once youovercome that feeling, though, you’ll find so much to love here. The sheer number ofsights, villages, charming pubs, and adorable restaurants and shops is overwhelming—you always feel that you might be missing something.
For visitors this is an ideal country to traverse, and with its varied and extensiveofferings within a compact frame, it’s visually addictive. Within a few miles, you cantravel from rugged coastline to smooth pastureland to towering mountains to gloomypeat bog. You can spend the night in ancient castles or modern spa hotels, dine on fineIrish cuisine or skimp on fish and chips. The country’s varied offerings can be a bitdazzling, so it’s nice to have somebody help you focus. That’s why we’ve put togetherthis list of some of our favorite places and things in Ireland. We hope that while you’rehere, you’ll find a few of your own.
1
1 The Best Picture-Postcard Towns• Dalkey (County Dublin): This
charming south-coast Dublin suburbhas just enough glorious freedomfrom that city’s traffic snarls andfrenzy. With a castle, a mountaintopfolly, and lovely beaches, there’s a lotto enjoy. Dalkey is an upscale bed-room community for Ireland’s rich,so it’s unsurprising that it also hasfine restaurants and welcoming pubs.This is a tempting town to settle into.See chapter 5.
• Carlingford (County Louth): Up inquiet, lazy Louth, little Carlingford isa draw. A tiny medieval village withcastle ruins on the bay, its pedestrian-friendly lanes are filled with colorful
shops, cafes, and pubs, and its otherdraws include a scattering of goodeateries. See chapter 6.
• Inistioge (County Kilkenny): Nes-tled in the Nore River Valley, sur-rounded by undulating hills, thisriverfront village with two spaciousgreens and a host of pubs cries out tobe photographed. Its rivers and lakesare swimming with fish and attracthosts of anglers. See chapter 7.
• Dingle/An Daingean (CountyKerry): Dingle is a charming hilltopmedieval town. Its stone buildingsramble up and down hills, and itssmall population is relaxed about visitors. It has lots of little diners and
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picturesque pubs, and a lovely, his-toric church. See chapter 10.
• Kinsale (County Cork): Kinsale’snarrow streets all lead to the sea,dropping steeply from the hillsaround the harbor, although thecrowds of visitors teeming on thesidewalks every summer attest to the fact that the Kinsale secret is out. The walk from Kinsale throughScilly to Charles Fort and FrowerPoint is breathtaking. Kinsale has theadded benefit of being a foodie town,with no shortage of good restaurants.See chapter 9.
• Kenmare (County Kerry): If you’redriving the Ring of Kerry, this is thebest base you could wish for at themouth of the River Roughty on Ken-mare Bay. The town is picture-perfectwith stone cottages, colorful gardens,and flowers overflowing from win-dow boxes. See chapter 10.
• Ardara (County Donegal): On thesouthwest coast of County Donegal,the tiny town of Ardara looks as if itwere carved out of a solid block ofgranite. Its streets undulate up anddown the rocky hills, and are linedwith little boutiques and charmingarts shops, many selling clothes madeof the famed Donegal wool. You canwander its entirety in a few minutes.It’s a bite-size place. See chapter 15.
• Athlone (County Westmeath): Sit-ting at the edge of the River Shan-non, its streets curving around asturdy, fortresslike castle, Athlone is acharmer. Houses are painted inbright hues, and with its small, funkyboutiques and spirit of fun, it has thefeel of a busy university town. Goodrestaurants and lively pubs add to itscharms. See chapter 13.
T H E B E S T N AT U R A L W O N D E R S 5
2 The Best Natural Wonders• The Slieve Bloom Way (County
Laois): Slieve Bloom, Ireland’s largestand most unspoiled blanket bog, risesgently above the peat fields. Itsbeauty—gentle slopes, glens, rivers,waterfalls, and bog lands—is subtlebut persistent, and it is comparativelyuntouched. You can have it more orless to yourself, apart from its deerand foxes, and an occasional frolick-ing otter.
• MacGillycuddy’s Reeks (CountyKerry): A mountain range on theIveragh Peninsula, MacGillycuddy’sReeks not only has the best name ofany mountain range in Ireland, butalso the highest mountain on theisland, Carrantuohill (1,041m/3,414ft.). The Reeks are among Ireland’sgreatest spectacles. See p. 326.
• The Burren (County Clare): We canguarantee this: The Burren is one of
the strangest landscapes you’re likelyto see. Its vast limestone grassland isspread with a quilt of wildflowersfrom as far afield as the Alps, all soft-ening the stark stones jutting out ofthe ground. Its inhabitants includenearly every species of butterflyfound in Ireland. See p. 375.
• Cliffs of Moher (County Clare): Ris-ing from Hag’s Head to the south,these magnificent sea cliffs reach theirfull height of 214m (702 ft.) justnorth of O’Brien’s Tower. The viewsof the open sea, of the Aran Islands,and of the Twelve Bens mountains ofConnemara (see below) are spectacu-lar. A walk south along the cliff edgeat sunset makes a perfect end to anyday. See p. 380.
• Croagh Patrick (County Mayo):Rising steeply 750m (2,460 ft.) abovethe coast, Croagh Patrick is seen as a
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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F I R E L A N D6
Ireland
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T H E B E S T N AT U R A L W O N D E R S 7
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holy mountain, where the saint issaid to have retreated in penance. Tra-ditionally, barefoot pilgrims climb itthe last Sunday of July, but in recentyears, hundreds of Nike-shod touristshave been making the ascent daily.The view from above can be breath-taking or nonexistent—the summit isoften wrapped in clouds. See p. 329.
• The Twelve Bens (County Galway):Amid Connemara’s central moun-tains, bogs, and lakes, the ruggedTwelve Bens range crowns a spectacu-lar landscape. Some of the peaks arebare and rocky, others clothed in peat.The loftiest, Benbaun, in ConnemaraNational Park, reaches a height of719m (2,395 ft.). See p. 414.
• Slieve League (County Donegal):The Slieve League peninsula stretchesfor 48km (30 miles) into the Atlantic.Its wonderfully pigmented bluffs riseto startlingly high sea cliffs. They canalso be walked along, if you dare. Seep. 467.
• Giant’s Causeway (County Antrim):At the foot of a cliff by the sea, thismysterious mass of dark tightlypacked, naturally occurring, hexago-nal basalt columns are nothing shortof astonishing. This volcanic wonder,formed 60 million years ago, looksmarvelous from above, even betterwhen negotiated (cautiously) on foot.See p. 521.
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F I R E L A N D8
3 The Best Castles• Trim Castle (County Meath): Trim,
also called King John’s Castle, restoredas a “preserved ruin,” is a massiveAnglo-Norman structure. It was allbut impregnable for 4 centuries (late-12th to mid-17th). Until it was aban-doned and collapsed in the 17thcentury, it never underwent any sig-nificant alteration. For anyone withimagination, Trim is a visual gatewayinto medieval Ireland. See p. 206.
• Cahir Castle (County Tipperary):One of the largest of Ireland’smedieval fortresses, this castle is in anextraordinary state of preservation.Tours explain some fascinating fea-tures of the military architecture, andthen you’re free to roam through amaze of tiny chambers, spiral stair-cases, and dizzying battlements. Seep. 242.
• Kilkenny Castle (County Kilkenny):Although parts of the castle date fromthe 13th century, the existing struc-ture has the feel of an 18th-centurypalace. There have been many modi-fications since medieval times,
including the addition of colorfullandscaping, and the old stables nowhold numerous art galleries andshops. See p. 252.
• Blarney Castle (County Cork):Despite the mobs of tourists whobesiege it daily, this majestic towerhouse is worth a visit. While you’rethere, check out the Badger Cave anddungeons at the tower’s base, as wellas the serpentine paths that windthrough the castle gardens. Need wemention the Blarney Stone? You sidlein under the upper wall with yourhead hanging over a 10-story drop.You kiss it. It’s a thing people do. Seep. 274.
• Charles Fort (County Cork): On apromontory in Kinsale Harbor, thisfortress’s massive walls enclose a com-plex of buildings in varying states ofrepair. At the entrance you’re handeda map and left to explore, discover,and almost certainly get lost in themaze of courtyards, passages, walls,and barracks. See p. 282.
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• Bunratty Castle and Folk Park(County Clare): This grand old castlehas been well restored and filled witha curious assortment of medieval fur-nishings, offering a glimpse into thelife of its past inhabitants. This is thefirst stop for many arrivals from Shan-non, so expect crowds. See p. 363.
• Doe Castle (County Donegal): Thispicturesque tower house is sur-rounded on three sides by the watersof Sheep Haven Bay and on thefourth by a moat carved into thebedrock that forms its foundation. Ithas a remote waterfront setting and
sweeping views of the nearby hills.See p. 472.
• Carrickfergus Castle (CountyAntrim): This well-preserved Nor-man fortress on the bank of BelfastLough is huge and impressive, withan imposing tower house and a highwall punctuated by corner towers.See p. 510.
• Dunluce Castle (County Antrim):These castle ruins surmount a razor-sharp promontory jutting into thesea. This was a highly defensible set-ting, and the castle wasn’t abandoneduntil a large section collapsed and fellinto the breakers. See p. 521.
T H E B E S T O F A N C I E N T I R E L A N D 9
4 The Best of Ancient Ireland• Newgrange (County Meath): Poised
atop a low hill north of the RiverBoyne, Newgrange is the centerpieceof a megalithic cemetery dating back5,000 years. The massive mound andpassage tomb were constructed, itseems, as a communal vault to housecremated remains. The tomb’s pas-sage is so perfectly aligned with thesolstice sun that the central chamber,deep within the mound, is illumi-nated for several days at the wintersolstice. See p. 204.
• Hill of Tara (County Meath): Of rit-ual significance from the Stone Ageto the Christian period, Tara has seenit all and kept it all a secret. This wasthe traditional center and seat of Ire-land’s high kings. Although the hill isonly 154m (512 ft.) above sea level,from here you can see each of Ire-land’s four Celtic provinces on a clearday. The site is mostly unexcavatedand tells its story in whispers. It’s aplace to be walked slowly. See p. 202.
• Loughcrew (County Meath): At thislittle-known site, not far from New-grange, a series of cruciform passagetombs crown two hills. On the easthill, a guide unlocks the door to one
of the domed tombs, answering yourquestions with a personal touch notpossible at the larger sites. Morerewarding, however, is a hike up thewest hill to a second, more solitaryseries of tombs where you can makeyour own imaginative reconstruction.See p. 204.
• Lough Gur (County Limerick): Thislakefront site will convince you thatthe Neolithic farmers of Ireland hadan estimable sense of real estate.Inhabited for more than 4,000 years,the ancient farming settlement offersa number of prehistoric remains. Themost impressive of these is the largestsurviving stone circle in Ireland,made up of 113 stones. See p. 357.
• Dún Aengus (County Galway): Noone knows who built this massivestone fort, or when. The eminentarchaeologist George Petrie calledDún Aengus “the most magnificentbarbaric monument in Europe.” Fac-ing the sea, where its three stone ringsmeet steep 90m (295-ft.) cliffs, DúnAengus still stands guard today overthe southern coast of the island ofInishmore, the largest of the Aran
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Islands. See “Side Trips from GalwayCity” in chapter 12.
• Carrowmore and Carrowkeel(County Sligo): These two megalithiccities of the dead (Europe’s largest)may have once contained more than200 passage tombs. The twotogether—one in the valley and theother atop a nearby mountain—con-vey an unequaled sense of the scaleand wonder of the ancient peoples’reverence for the dead. Carrowmoreis well presented and interpreted,
while Carrowkeel is left to itself andto those who seek it out. See p. 443.
• Navan Fort (County Antrim): Thereis no longer much remaining here toreflect the great past of this fort,though it was once the ritual androyal seat of Ulster. Thankfully, theinterpretive center here is nothingshort of remarkable, and it offers agreat introduction to the myth andarchaeology of the fort, known inIrish as Emain Macha. See p. 518.
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5 Remnants of the Golden Age: The Best Early Christian Ruins• Glendalough (County Wicklow):
Nestled in “the glen of the two lakes,”this atmospheric monastic settlementwas founded in the 6th century by St.Kevin, who was looking for seclusionand certainly found it here. The set-ting is endlessly scenic, with lakes andforests surrounding it. Althoughquite remote, Glendalough sufferedassaults from the Vikings and Englishforces, and eventually faded away.Today its stone ruins collude with thecountryside to create one of theloveliest spots in Ireland. See p. 182.
• Jerpoint Abbey (County Kilkenny):Jerpoint is the finest representative ofthe many Cistercian abbeys whoseruins dot the Irish landscape. Some-how, hundreds of years of rain andwind have failed to completely wipeaway medieval carvings, leaving us arare chance for a glimpse of howmagnificent these abbeys once were.The splendid, richly carved cloister isthe best place to spot the carvings,particularly at the top of the manycolumns. See p. 255.
• The Rock of Cashel (County Tip-perary): In name and appearance,“the Rock” suggests a citadel, a placedesigned more for power than prayer.In fact, Cashel (or Caiseal) means
“fortress.” The rock is a huge out-cropping—or an upcropping—oflimestone topped with spectacularlybeautiful ruins, including what wasformerly the country’s finestRomanesque chapel. This was theseat of clerics and kings, a power cen-ter to rival Tara. Now, however, thetwo sites vie only for the attention oftourists. See p. 528.
• Skellig Michael (County Kerry):Thirteen kilometers (8 miles) off-shore of the Iveragh Peninsula, risingsharply 214m (702 ft.) out of theAtlantic, this is a remote rocky cragdedicated to the archangel Michael.In flight from the world, early Irishmonks in pursuit of “white martyr-dom” chose this spot to build theiraustere hermitage. Today the journeyto Skellig, across choppy seas, and thearduous climb to its summit are chal-lenging and unforgettable. See “TheSkellig Islands” under “The IveraghPeninsula” in chapter 10.
• Inishmurray (County Sligo): Thisuninhabited island off the Sligo coastholds another striking monastic ruin,this one surrounded by what appearsto be the walls of an even moreancient stone fort. Despite itsremoteness, the Vikings sought out
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this outpost of peace-seeking monksfor destruction in A.D. 807. Today itscircular walls and the surrounding seacreate a stunning view, well worth theeffort required to reach it. See“Exploring the Surrounding Coun-tryside” under “Sligo & Yeats Coun-try” in chapter 14.
• Clonmacnois (County Offaly): Thiswas once one of Ireland’s mostimportant religious, artistic, and liter-ary centers, a place of pilgrimage and
culture. Founded in the mid–5thcentury at the axis of the River Shan-non and the medieval east-west thor-oughfare known as the Eiscir Riada,Clonmacnois thrived for centuriesuntil its prime riverfront locationbrought repeated violent raids thatproved its undoing. Even in ruins,Clonmacnois remains a place ofpeculiar serenity. See p. 421.
T H E B E S T L I T E R A RY S P O T S 11
6 The Best Literary Spots• Glasnevin Cemetery (County
Dublin): Besides being the setting forpart of Ulysses, this is the resting placeof James Joyce’s parents and othermembers of his family. The English-born poet Gerard Manley Hopkins isburied here, in the Jesuit plot. MaudGonne, the Irish nationalist andlongtime Dublin resident who is saidto have inspired Yeats’s play Cathleenní Houlihan, is buried in the Repub-lican plot. The writer, drinker, andIrish Republican Brendan Behan isalso buried here. See p. 145.
• Davy Byrnes Pub: In Ulysses Joycedescribes the main character, LeopoldBloom, stopping in at this Dublinpub for a Gorgonzola sandwich and aglass of burgundy. “He raised his eyesand met the stare of a bilious clock.Two. Pub clock five minutes fast.Time going on. Hands moving. Two.Not yet.” Today the clock is said to bekept 5 minutes fast, in honor ofBloom and Joyce. See chapter 5.
• Dublin Writers Museum: WithJoyce’s typewriter, handwritten lettersfrom Brendan Behan to friends backhome, and early flyers from theAbbey Theatre when it was run byLady Gregory and Yeats, thismuseum is heaven for bookish types.You can spend hours reading the
memorabilia, and marveling at thetrivia. The only thing it lacks is agood shop. See chapter 5.
• James Joyce Museum: At the edge ofthe sea in the Dublin suburb ofSandycove, this Martel tower washome to Joyce for a short time, but hebased a character on his host, OliverSt. John Gogarty, described in Ulyssesperfectly as “stately, plump BuckMulligan.” The museum was openedin 1962, and its interior has beenrestored to look as it did when Joycewas here, along with plenty of mem-orabilia, including Joyce’s walkingstick and guitar. See chapter 5.
• St. Patrick’s Cathedral (CountyDublin): Jonathan Swift tickled andhorrified the world with his viciouswit. He shook up political establish-ments with his sarcasm, and nause-ated the English-speaking world withhis suggestion that people shoulddine on Irish babies. While kickingup such a stir, he was dean of St.Patrick’s Cathedral, which sponsoredand supported him through it all. Heis buried here alongside his longtimecompanion, Stella. See p. 140.
• County Sligo: With its many con-nections to the beloved poet W.B.Yeats, this county is a pilgrimage des-tination for Yeats fans. The poet’s
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7 The Best Gardens• Powerscourt Gardens (County
Wicklow): This grandiose Irish gar-den is set amid the natural splendorof the Wicklow Hills just outside ofDublin. The sprawling, manicuredgardens and the wild beauty of thePowerscourt waterfall make this agreat day’s outing, and a respite fromthe noise and congestion of the city.See p. 184.
• Japanese Gardens (County Kildare):On the grounds of the National Stud,this peaceful enclave is based on thetraditional designs of Japanese gar-dens. A Japanese specialist plannedthe structure and its symbolism, andmost of the plants and stones wereimported from Japan. See p. 196.
• Ilnacullin (County Cork): A ferryconveys visitors from a rhododen-dron-framed bay in the town ofGlengarriff to Garinish Island, theunlikely site of a fine Italianate gar-den. The formal garden, with the
Casita at its center, is linked to a“wild garden” that showcases a collec-tion of rhododendrons, azaleas, andrare trees. See p. 296.
• Glenveagh National Park (CountyDonegal): A castle and its gardensstretch across a strangely barren valleyhigh in the hills of Donegal, alongthe banks of Lough Veagh. Thesprawling park contains a grand stat-uary garden, a walled garden, and arhododendron-lined path that leadsto a stunning view of the castle andlake. See p. 472.
• Mount Stewart Gardens (CountyDown): Built upon an elaborate plan,the Mount Stewart house has severalgardens of distinctive character. TheArds Peninsula provides a climateconducive to cultivating many sub-tropical species. The statuary, topiary,and planting designs reflect a touchof whimsy. See p. 512.
8 The Best Family Activities• Dublin Zoo in the Phoenix Park
(Dublin): Kids love this sympatheti-cally designed zoo, with its wild crea-tures, animal-petting corners, andtrain ride. The surrounding park hasroom to run, picnic, and explore. Seep. 152.
• Irish National Heritage Park(County Wexford): Nearly 9,000years of Irish history come alive herein ways that will fascinate visitors ofall ages. The whole family will be cap-tivated by the story of ancient Ire-
land, from its first inhabitants to itsNorman conquerors. See p. 216.
• Fota Island Wildlife Park (CountyCork): In this wildlife park, rare andendangered animals roam freely.You’ll see everything from giraffesand zebras to kangaroos, flamingos,penguins, and monkeys wanderingthe grassland. Add in a small amuse-ment park for toddlers, a tour train,picnic tables, and a gift shop and youhave the makings of a wonderful fam-ily outing. See p. 289.
writing was shaped by the landscapeand people in this farming region,and many of its monuments—including Lough Gill, Glencar Lake,Ben Bulben Mountain, and Maeve’stomb—appear in his poetry. There
are also several museums housing firsteditions, photographs, and othermemorabilia, and Yeats’s dark andsomber grave is in Drumcliff. Seechapter 14.
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• Muckross House & Gardens (Kil-larney, County Kerry): This hugeVictorian mansion with its exquisitegardens is also home to skilled arti-sans at work. Nearby are a series ofreconstructed traditional farms, withanimals and docents, providing agateway to rural Ireland as it was forcenturies. See p. 321.
• Fungie the Dolphin Tours (Dingle,County Kerry): Every day, fishingboats ferry visitors out into thenearby waters to see Fungie, thefriendliest dolphin you’re ever likelyto meet. Fungie swims right up to theboat, and the boatmen stay out long
enough for ample sightings. You canalso arrange an early-morning dol-phin swim. See p. 435.
• Bunratty Castle and Folk Park(County Clare): Kids are enthralledby this well-restored medieval castleand re-created 19th-century village.It’s complete with a school and loadedwith active craftspeople. See p. 365.
• Marble Arch Caves (Marlbank,County Fermanagh): Adventurousfamilies are guided by boat throughwell-lit underground waterways toexplore caves and view amazing stoneformations. See p. 556.
T H E B E S T L U X U RY A C C O M M O D AT I O N S 13
9 The Best Active Vacations• Sailing Ireland’s West Coast: Spec-
tacular coastal scenery, interestingharbor towns, and an abundance ofislands make the west coast a delightfor cruising sailors. See “Sailing” inchapter 4.
• Horseback Riding in Donegal: Thewild and woolly coast of Donegaloffers the perfect scenic backdrop fortrail riding, and as varied a terrain—beaches, countryside, mountains—asyou’ll find anywhere. See p. 465.
• Sea Kayaking in West Cork: InCastletownbere on the dramatic,rugged Beara Peninsula, Beara Out-door Pursuits specializes in accompa-nied trips out and around Bere Islandand as far as Glengarriff. You can playit as safe or as rough as you want. Seep. 298.
• Bicycling in the Southwest: Thepeninsulas and islands of Cork andKerry are perfect for cycling, with anabundance of beautiful places to visit.Roycroft’s Stores in Skibbereen,County Cork, rent bikes that are anotch above the usual rental equip-ment. See the “Sports & OutdoorPursuits” sections in chapters 9 and 10.
• Walking the Donegal Coast: Therugged headlands of Donegal are themost spectacular in Ireland, and thebest way to explore them is on foot.Among the finest walks are SlieveLeague, Malin Head, and HornHead. See “The Donegal Bay Coast”in chapter 15.
10 The Best Luxury Accommodations• The Clarence (Dublin; & 01/407-
0800; www.theclarence.ie): Ownedby members of the band U2, theClarence is a perfect mixture of sleeksophistication and coolness. Every-thing here is designed for subtle ele-gance, from the soft, neutral color
schemes, to the luxurious bed linens,to the huge beds, and the helpfulstaff. The Octagon Bar is a relaxinghangout, while the Tea Room restau-rant is one of the best eateries intown. The new spa will pummel andfacial you into relaxation, while the
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staff members hurry off to find yourfavorite red wine. Staying here is areal treat. See p. 112.
• Brook Lodge Hotel (County Wick-low; & 0402/36444; www.brooklodge.com): This place keeps gettingbetter and better. Rooms have firmking-size four-poster beds, wood-pan-eled window seats, deep bathtubs,quality linens, and contemporary fur-nishings. The latest addition to thisholistic oasis is The Wells, a gorgeousspa with Finnish baths, mud baths,hot tubs, Jacuzzis, indoor and outdoorpools, a hammam (Turkish bath), anda flotation room in which you’re sureto relax. See p. 190.
• Glin Castle (County Limerick; & 068/34173; www.glincastle.com):This beautifully restored, 18th-cen-tury castle guesthouse near themouth of the Shannon is a peacefuland elegant place to pass an eveningor two. Owned for centuries by theknights of Glin, it is all very welldone, with multiple parlors warmedby crackling fires, walled gardens, andbeautiful grounds to explore. Roomsare huge and gorgeously appointedwith antiques, and the staff is friendlyand helpful. It offers class withoutsnobbery. See p. 357.
• Gregans Castle Hotel (CountyClare; & 800/323-5463 in the U.S.,or 065/707-7005; www.gregans.ie):Not a castle at all, but an ivy-covered,stone manor house, this small, fam-ily-run hotel is filled with light, and ithas lovely views of the Burren andGalway Bay. The drawing room andexpansive hallways are filled with
heirlooms, and the walls are deco-rated with Raymond Piper’s muralpaintings of the Burren. Guest roomsare spacious and elegantly decoratedin muted colors with antique pieces,and all have expansive views of thespectacular countryside. Dinners hereare outstanding, and eating in isworth every penny. See p. 378.
• Delphi Lodge (County Galway; & 095/42222): This was once thecountry hideaway for the marquis ofSligo, and now it can be yours.Inside, the emphasis is on clean,bright simplicity and perfect taste;the grounds and environs are spectac-ular. “Tranquillity,” “comfort,” and,well, “fishing” are the operative wordshere. You will want to stay longerthan you’d planned—and by rentingone of the cottages for a week ormore, you can make the indulgencemore affordable. See p. 417.
• The Park Hotel Kenmare (CountyKerry; & 800/323-5463 in the U.S.,or 064/41200; www.parkkenmare.com): In a palm-tree-lined gardenbeside Kenmare Bay, this imposing19th-century hotel is grand and luxu-rious. In the high-ceilinged sittingrooms, fires crackle in the open fire-places, oil paintings decorate thewalls, and there’s a full set of armor atthe top of the grand staircase sur-rounded by tapestries and rareantiques. Guest rooms have Georgianand Victorian furnishings and peace-ful waterfront or mountain views.The guest-only, in-house spa isextraordinary. See p. 314.
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11 The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations• Moy House (County Clare; & 065/
708-2800; www.moyhouse.com):This unusual 19th-century towerhouse atop a hill overlooking the seais beautiful inside and out. Rooms
have comfortable, modern beds cov-ered in crisp Irish linens, and are dec-orated with original paintings andperiod antiques. Bathrooms are beau-tifully designed to combine modern
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conveniences with the building’s oldarchitecture (a glass panel in oneroom provides a look down into anold well). Downstairs, the small,attractive dining room serves upexcellent food and has a sea view. It’sa snug, warm, friendly place to visit.See p. 382.
• Temple House (County Sligo; & 071/918-3329; www.templehouse.ie): Roderick and HelenaPerceval’s grand Victorian manorhouse is an extraordinary place whereceilings soar to the stratosphere, mar-ble stays solidly underfoot, and thefamily’s working farm stretches outfor miles around you. A Templar cas-tle lies in ruins on the banks of theirlake, well stocked with fish. To spenda few days here is to experience a dif-ferent world. See p. 447.
• The Bastion (County Westmeath; & 090/649-4954; www.thebastion.net): This simple and peaceful guest-house in the heart of colorful Athloneis a find. Run by brothers Vinny andAnthony McCay, it has a minimalistapproach, with clean white walls andcrisp white linens contrasted withdark polished wood. The big, ram-bling house is comfortable, friendly,and perfectly located for touringAthlone or as a base for exploring thesurrounding countryside. See p. 425.
• Bruckless House (County Donegal;& 074/973-7071): This mid-18th-century farmhouse, restored withimpeccable taste, has many charms,including award-winning gardensand a stable of Connemara ponies.Spacious, welcoming, and comfort-able, Bruckless House feels like home(or better) after only a very shorttime. See p. 469.
• Rathmullan House (County Done-gal; & 800/223-6510 in the U.S., or074/915-8188 in Ireland; www.rathmullanhouse.com): This getaway
lies at the end of a long private driveon the banks of the mirrorlike watersof Lough Swilly. Rooms are big andbeautifully detailed, with a soft colorscheme, claw-foot tubs, and privatepatios. There are half a dozen drawingrooms in which you can relax on bigleather sofas by open fires. The staff isfriendly and open, and the atmos-phere is one of pure rural rest andrelaxation. See p. 475.
• The Bervie (County Mayo; & 098/43114; www.bervieachill.com): Viewsreally don’t get any better than this—right at the edge of the sea, overlook-ing the cliffs across the bay. This cozyretreat is an ideal place to stay forthose exploring Ireland’s wild westcoast. Owners Elizabeth and JohnBarrett are charming hosts who greetyou with fresh scones and will cookyou a delightful dinner if you wish.The house is a former Coast Guardstation—as solid as a rock, and ascomforting as a security blanket. Thisis one of our favorite places in Ire-land. See p. 436.
• Ross Castle and House (CountyCavan; & 043/81286 castle, or 049/854-0218 house): A tower room in acentrally heated, haunted castleawaits you at Ross Castle. It won’ttake too big a bite out of your wallet,either. It might not be elegant, but itis unquestionably memorable. Warm,comfortable Ross Castle and nearbyRoss House are great places to relaxbeside Lough Sheelin, a noteworthysource of trout and pike. See p. 455.
• Slieve Croob Inn (County Down; & 028/4377-1412): Whether youwant to drop anchor and set up ahome away from home in a self-cater-ing cottage or just spend a night in astunning landscape, you’ll adore thistasteful hideaway in the magicalMournes. See p. 532.
T H E B E S T M O D E R AT E LY P R I C E D A C C O M M O D AT I O N S 15
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13 The Best Pubs• Abbey Tavern (County Dublin): A
short distance from Dublin center,the Abbey Tavern is the perfect placeto recover and refuel after spending aday exploring Dublin. The Abbey is
known far and wide for its ballads aswell as its brew. See p. 168.
• Brazen Head (County Dublin):Nearly qualifying as one of Ireland’sancient sites, the Brazen Head,
12 The Best Restaurants• Chapter One (County Dublin; & 01/
873-2266): Arguably the city’s mostatmospheric restaurant, this remark-able eatery fills the vaulted basementspace of the Dublin Writers Museum.Artfully lighted and tastefully deco-rated, it offers a menu with local,organic ingredients, all cleverly usedin dishes like the ravioli with Irishgoat cheese and warm asparagus. Fab-ulous! See p. 132.
• Grapefruit Moon (County Cork; & 021/464-6646): Here’s an ele-gant, pared-down place in the middleof Ballycotton, an appealing village inEast Cork. Run by members of theAllen family, of Ballymaloe fame, itskey to everything is using the freshestingredients obtainable. See p. 291.
• The Chart House (County Kerry; & 066/915-2255): In this invitingbistro, everyone comes for LauraBoyce’s confident, simple cooking.Think wonderful comfort food witha flair—the kind of food you nevertire of. And the service is, as the Irishwould say, “spot on.” See p. 340.
• The Wild Geese (County Limerick;& 061/396451): After spendingyears making other people’s restau-rants fabulous, owner-chef DavidFoley created a gem of his own inLimerick. The cooking is complex,exquisitely flavorful, and refined. Seep. 359.
• Cromleach Lodge (County Sligo; & 071/916-5155): In this lovelycountry house with panoramic views
of Lough Arrow and environs,Christy and Moira Tighe have createda culinary destination with few peers.The menu, Irish in focus, changesdaily. The eight-course gourmet menuis the ultimate indulgence. See p. 446.
• The Corncrake (County Donegal;& 074/937-4534): Such a judiciousblend of fresh ingredients and culi-nary imagination is a rare treat. Thenettle soup, roast lamb, and dessertsof Noreen Lynch and Brid McCart-ney warrant a detour to the town ofCarndonagh, where the living roomof a small row house has been trans-formed into an extraordinary restau-rant. See p. 481.
• James Street South (County Antrim;& 028/9043-4310; www.jamesstreetsouth.co.uk): This is the table of themoment in Belfast. This place is a hitbecause of the terrific cooking, whichdelivers modern classics with an Irishtwist. The lamb is always excellent,and shouldn’t be missed. Portions aregenerous, the wine list very good, thecrowd rapturous. See p. 505.
• The Narrows (County Down; & 028/4272-8148): Who’d havethought that the sleepy little water-side hamlet of Portaferry would havea restaurant like this? Danny Millar isone of the hottest young chefs on thisisland—just ask Food & Wine maga-zine—and his complex, yet earthy,cooking is worth going out of yourway for. See p. 515.
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commissioned by Charles II, is morethan 300 years old, but its stout is asfresh as it comes. Among its illustri-ous alumni are Wolfe Tone, DanielO’Connell, and Robert Emmet, whoplanned the Dublin rising of 1803under the Head’s low timbers. See p. 164.
• The Long Valley (County Cork): Foranyone who knows and loves Cork,this is a place of pilgrimage. There’sone endless, low-slung room with abar running its full length, doorstaken from an ocean liner, barmen inwhite butchers’ coats, and a selectionof delectable sandwiches. It’s a slice ofheaven. See p. 278.
• McGann’s (County Clare): Doolin, adot of a town on the Clare Coast, isa magnet for traditional Irish musi-cians—and a wonderful spot to hearimpromptu sessions of Irish music.Gus O’Connor’s, down the road, is more famous (but also thicker with tourists); McGann’s remains the
genuine article without the hype. See p. 384.
• Moran’s Oyster Cottage (CountyGalway): Famed for its seafood, thiscenturies-old thatched-cottage pubon the weir also draws a perfect pint.This may well be the oyster capital ofIreland. It’s 19km (12 miles) out ofGalway and well worth the drive—orthe walk, for that matter. See p. 402.
• Smuggler’s Creek (County Done-gal): This place is worth a stop if onlyfor its spectacular cliff-top views ofDonegal Bay. Stone walls, beamedceilings, open fires, excellent fare, andthe brew that’s true are among thecharms that proprietor Conor Brit-ton has on tap. See p. 466.
• Crown Liquor Saloon (CountyAntrim): This National Trust pub,across from the Grand Opera Housein Belfast, is a Victorian gem. Yourmouth will drop open at its antiquepublican splendor even before you liftyour first pint. See p. 507.
T H E B E S T W E B S I T E S 17
14 The Best Websites• Dublin Tourist Office (www.visit
dublin.com): This site is the mostcomprehensive resource for visitingthe capital. We especially like the newlast-minute booking service, whichlets you find out which hotels andguesthouses have immediate avail-ability, as well as which are offeringthe best discounts.
• Irelandhotels.com (www.irelandhotels.com): What catapults thisaccommodations database ahead ofthe raft of hotel-finding sites is its“search by facility” function. Gottahave a gym? Need to find a babysitter?Want an in-room dataport for yourlaptop? No problem. Plug in yourrequirements and you’ll get a list ofhotels and guesthouses that fit the bill.
• Irish Tourist Board (www.ireland.ie):Bord Fáilte’s site is both easy to navi-gate and extremely informative. It’s anexcellent place to start gathering ideasfor your trip.
• AA Roadwatch (www.aaroadwatch.ie): Planning on driving? The route-planning feature of the Irish Automo-bile Association’s site is brilliantlysimple. Plug in a starting point anddestination and you’ll get a detailed,no-brainer set of directions from Ato B.
• Entertainment Ireland (www.entertainment.ie): This handy, exhaus-tive, searchable database includes justabout every event in Ireland, frommuseum exhibitions and rock concertsto new plays and nightclub theme
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nights—and there are well-writtenreviews of them all.
• Irish Family History Foundation(www.irishroots.net): This new, com-prehensive genealogy resource con-tains documentation from all 32counties. Much of the archived infor-mation is free for your perusal, or youcan avail yourself of researchers.
• Newshound (www.nuzhound.com):Hands down, this is the best singleresource for keeping up-to-date onNorthern Ireland. It’s a searchablelibrary of news articles about devel-opments in the North, including aterrific timeline of key events in “theTroubles.” In addition, there are arti-cles on the republic, as well as traveland dining reviews.
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