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CAMINO 2018: VIA PODENSIS/GR65; DEL NORTE; PRIMITIVO; FISTERRA: 03/18/2019
Day/Stage Destination Km/Alt TimeAscent/Descent
Rating Notes
TotalDays/
Stages of each
Camino
Start/Finish Location
Note: Stages generally reflect Cicerone recommended Stages with some modifications from Gronze and Godesalco. Stages are merely for planning purposes—it is important to “go with the flow” and stop where/when the spirit and/or my body indicates.
Daily Distance & Altitudes
Total Trip: 1676.2 km/1,047.6 mi.
Via Podensis: 776.4km/
485.3 mi to SJPP and 800.6km/
500.4 mi to Roncsvalles
Total Vertical:
11,420 M/ 37,467 Ft.
Del Norte & Primitivo:791.5km/
494.7 mi to Santiago
and 875.6 mi to
Est. Time
(Gronze &
assume 4km/hr average
)
Difficulty/Nature Rating from
Gronze for Le Puy
and Terrain
Difficulty/Signage Rating from
Cicerone for Del Norte)
Notes: Lodging—preferred and alternatives Regional Notes Route Notes; Water/Provision Recommendations Must See Sites/Towns/Routes; Alternative Routes/Variants; Alternative Stage endpoints with good lodging option; Highly Recommended Lodging Options—Albergue/Gite and CH or
other single accommodation alternatives. Recommended restaurants. Local food specialties and sources/shops. Transportation options.
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Fisterra
Departure Day 0
August 30: Thursday
MSP to CDG Flight: DL 140 boards at 3:30 & departs MSP at 4:25pm CDT arrive CDG 7:30 am; 8 hrs, 5 minutesThis is Day Zero as it doesn’t count against my 90 day “no visa” limit under Schengen Agreement.
Pre- Camino Day 1
August 31: Friday
Paris CDG to Le Puy-en-Velay
DL 140 arrives CDG, Terminal 2E at 7:30amCDG to Le Puy by Train: [NEED PAPER E-TICKET—DO NOT NEED TO VALIDATE IN YELLOW MACHINE]
1. 11:57am Depart CDG (Aeroport CDG2 TGV) on Train 9826 arriving Lyon Part Dieu at 14:00/2:00pm;
2. Depart Lyon Part Dieu at 15:05/3:05pm on Train 6684 arriving St. Etienne Chatea at 15:48/3:48pm;
3. Depart St. Etienne Chatea at 15:57/3:57pm on Train 89960 arriving Le Puy En Velay at 17:20/5:20pm.
Rail Europe Booking Number 44237208: The SNCF main line station at Paris CDG is called ‘Aeroport Charles de Gaulle 2 – TGV’ and is located in between terminals 2C-2D and 2E-2F. Normally, Need to remember to validate your train ticket before boarding the train. The yellow validation machine is located at the bottom of the escalator and before you walk along the train tracks towards your train.TBV Train to Lyon Port Dieu (2hrs); Train from Gare de Lyon to Saint-Etienne Chateau (46 minutes); Train to Le Puy (1 hr. & 32 minutes).Lodging in Le Puy: AirBNB Reservation HMTW22XSTB for 8/31 & 9/1 checking out 9/2; 12 Rue Saint-Georges Le Puy-en-Velay, Auvergne-Rhone-Alpes 43000 (next to Cathedral), Le Puy; $56.60; Host: Sebastien: +33 6 67 26 3082; Breakfast from 7-9am for 6E (order 48 hrs. in advance). Other Lodging Notes: Le Puy municipal albergue has cubicles/curtains so it is somewhat private; Gite Relais Saint Jacques is recommended by many Pilgrims as is Capucins (but Capucins isn’t near the Cathedral and that is probably important for an easy start with the Pilgrim’s blessing service and departure from Le Puy); accueil Saint François is a bit quieter and smaller than the big gites. Gîte Beilari is across from Pilgrim Office and is
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recommended. Pre-
Camino Day 2Sept 1
Saturday
Sights of Le Puy and Final Camino
Preparation
Pilgrim Welcome & Blessing: 5:30pm each day near or in the Cathedral;Obtain Credentials: get credentials after 7am mass or in sacristy from 10-12 and 2-6Obtain Sim Card: Obtain French/Spanish sim card and set up phone. Take passport. Make sure it allows tethering or hotspot, that it works with WhatsApp and Skype; does it work in Spain; coverage map; cost of texts and call in France, Spain and to US? Write down the new number and PIN code and put with passport. Send new number to key contacts and to confirmed reservations. Current Plan: Buy Orange Card for France/Spain with some data, but primarily so I can call, text, and use online maps on my trip. Also can set up messenger, Facebook, iMessage, etc. (look at my phone and download the ones I think I will use) when I need data for them—this probably includes my online banking since I trust cell data more than I trust Wi-Fi. My online maps don’t use data—GPS only (iPhiGeNie., Maps.me; Wise Pilgrim Guide maps). Otherwise, keep my cell phone data “off”—it is critical to keep phone in “Airplane Mode” to avoid all data usage and don’t incur the $10 charge unless I need to—mostly use Wi-Fi. Light Show at 9:30pm in Le Puy.Reconfirm any initial Gite reservations and provide them with my French phone number (most won’t accept a US number and they like to have a contact number to reconfirm the day before arrival)—especially first few nights, but best to send to all reserved lodging.Purchase Final Items on Supply List:
1. Tourist Office: Buy Miam Miam DoDo (only buy the first volume that covers the initial stages—not all three volumes of Miam Miam DoDo) from Tourist Office (if needed—I decided not to buy it as I had the app and actually didn’t use it much) & Michelin 725 Map—Chemins de Compostela (I didn’t buy it and didn’t need a paper map on my Camino—the apps were sufficient…and much lighter)
2. Decathelon for sporting goods/gear (I didn’t go to Decathelon in Le Puy and found other camping stores in Le Puy but really didn’t need
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anything; I did go to Decathelon in Oviedo on Del Norte and it was fabulous—high quality gear/clothing at reasonable prices;
3. Grocery store for initial bread/cheese/sausage/fruit provisions since initial stages have few services. Note that most shops are closed on Sundays and Mondays so plan accordingly.
4. Camino shell for pack. (These are available in many stores. They are somewhat fragile, so there is an art to how/where you attach them on the back of your pack so they are visible without getting in the way or getting broken.)
Sites in Le Puy: Cathedral; Ancient hospital Hotel-Dieu; Church of Saint Michel d’Aiguilhe (the walk to and the hike up the steps to this ancient Pilgrim Chapel and lodging place is a “must see—must experience”—simply an unforgettable start to a Camino; Statue of Notre-Dame de France; Market on Saturday is very nice; Dining Options for Pre-departure Dinner: La Table du Plot in the main square is excellent with great service and variety; La Cinqieme Saison is also recommended.
Day 3/1Stage 1 of
Camino via Podiensis/Chemin du Puy—en-
VelaySept 2
Sunday
Le Puy-en-Velay
ToMontbonnet
16/16663M to 1,117 M
784.6 to R Roncevalles1660.2 to F
Fisterra
4:30500M Ascent
?Descent
3/216km climb
Blessing at Cathedral: 7AM mass each morning. Obtain Credential if I didn’t get it day before.Region of Velay: volcanic region formed 14 million years ago; basalt plateauRoute: Steady climb from 663M to 1,117M in Montbonnet.Water/Services: Pack light lunch and fill water in Le Puy as few services—none on Sunday/Monday.Lodging in Montbonnet: Book Well in Advance: Gite d’Etape Prive (Chrsitain & Francoise Gentes) in La Grange Bar in renovated farmhouse is highly recommended—I stayed there and it was a perfect “first Gite” experience with wonderful communal dinner and views/accommodations; +33 (0)4 71 57 54 44; [email protected] ; gitelagrangegr65.fr; link is on Rob’s list; also, Gite L’Escole is highly recommended. Saint-Christophe-sur-Dolaison: Small 11th Century Romanesque church built from reddish volcanic rock; it has 4-arched bell tower and the wooden alter depicts St. Christopher—the patron saint of travelers. Remains of communal oven are near the church.
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Other Notes: Depart Mid-Week: Consider departing Le Puy mid-week (Wed or Thursday): Most pilgrims start on Sat or Sunday (40+/- depending on time of year, so will be less crowded mid-week). Lodging in Saint-Privat-d’Allier: La Cadbourne is recommended.
4/2Sept 3
Monday
Montbonnet To
Monistrol-d’Allier
14.5/30.51,117M to
615M770.1 to R1645.7 to F
5:15?
Ascent ?
Descent
3/3Big climbs
and descents
Route: Short climb out of Montbonnet then very steep descent into Saint-Private-d’Allier (869). Another short climb to Rochegude (932) then very steep descent into Montistrol-d’Allier (615). Use caution on steep footpath from Rochegude to Pratclaux—in rain, consider taking alternate route on D301 from Rochegude.Water/Services: Fill water in morning. Take provisions as no services.Eiffel Bridge: constructed 1 year before Eiffel Tower.Sites in Saint-Privat-d’Allier: great view of Allier valley; private 13th century castle and 12th Century Romanesque Church.Sites in Rochgude: Beautiful views from Chapel of Saint Jacques and adjacent ruins of medieval watch tower.Sites in Monistrol-d’Allier: : Chapel of Saint-Jacques—great view of valley; Tour des Anglais; Saint-Medard Collegiate Church.Lodging in Monistrol d’Allier: Book Well in Advance Le Repos du Pelerin is a nice hotel & delicious restaurant in town—I stayed there and highly recommend it: €33 shared room/€50 half board or €50 B&B 1 person; Also recommended: Gite d’ Etape La Tsabone €33 half-board—12 beds, English spoken, very welcoming.
5/3Sept 4
Tuesday
Monistrol-d’Allier
ToSaugues
12/42.5615M to
962M758.1 to R1633.7 to F
4 3/3 Margeride Region: a 60km mountain chain that is part of the Massif Central. 10 million years old like the Alps) with granite highlands and meadows. Elevation is mostly above 1000M. French resistance was especially strong here.Route: 7km climb to Le Vernet (1,053) and then climb another 2.5 km before descent into Saugues (962). Very challenging stage.Water/Services: Fill water in Monistrol-d’Allier.Sites in Saugues: 13th Century Romanesque Chapel; Church of Saint Medard has beautiful wooden statues; Saugues was stronghold of historic Gevaudan territory of Celtic people. Very wealthy in 12th Century—only the English tower remains from the fortress. Beast of Gevaudan terrorized
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region from 1764-67 killing more than 100.Lodging in Saugues: Book well in Advance La Dentelle du Camino Gite d’Etape (04.71.77.73.803) is very nice and is located on the Camino towards the edge of town as you depart—wonderful communal dinner with hosts and other guests; site:.http://www.ladentelleducamino.fr/index.html gives prices and reservation links for Gite and B&B options. Private room was 65 euros—includes room, dinner, breakfast, towel, bed linens, and picnic lunch which you really need the next day as there are limited services.
6/4Sept 5Wed.
SauguesTo
Le Sauvage
19.5/62 962M to
1,293M in Le Sauvage
738.6 to R 1614.2 to F
5:30719M Ascent396M
Descent
2/3 Route: Steady climb for 19km from 962M to 1,293M at Le Sauvage. Services/Water: No intermediate services. La Clauze Tower (about 7.7 km past Saugues) remains from 14th century fortress. Villeret-d’Apchier: Spring dedicated to Saint Peter in the lower village of Villeret-d’Apchier (3.7km past La Clauze) was famous for miraculous healing of eyes. Le Sauvage: Domaine du Sauvage was medieval Templar farm. It is an amazing place to stay, visit, and dine/relax.Lodging in Le Sauvage: BOOK AHEAD for bed and meals—Domaine du Sauvage is medieval farm now operated as Gite/Restaurant by 40 area farmers. 43170 Chanaleilles, Haute Loire, France; +33 (0)4 71 74 40 30 or +33 (0)6 66 12 92 25; [email protected]; www.sauvage-en-gevaudan.fr/ €34 halfboard; Reservation Process: I was unable to complete my reservation by email or on the form on their website (no response) or telephone (kept getting a recording). My host in Le Puy was able to call them and make my reservation. Book picnic lunch when registering if desired. Alt Stage End in Les Faux: Best to stop early given steady climb and need to reserve at Le Sauvage.Lodging in Les Faux: Gite L’Oustal de Parent is recommended.
7/5Sept 6
Thursday
Le SauvageTo
Les Estrets
21/831,293 to 939
717.6 to R
6:00478M Ascent 829M
Route: Chapel of Saint Roch is just after Le Sauvage at high point (1,304M) along the Hospitalet ridge that is the boundary between the Haute-Loire and the Lozere departments. Between Le Sauvage and Le Rouget, be careful not to get on the GR4 which intersects GR 65 twice and
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1593.2 to F Descent uses same red/white signage. Descent to Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole (958) (see Church of St. Alban from 12th century with Romanesque sculpted capitals on choir) then climb of 7km to 1,021M at Chabanes-Planes followed by short but steep descent into Les Estrets at 939M (which was a major command post for the Knights of Malta in the middle ages—no food or services there today except at Gite for guests).Services/Water: Pack food from Le Sauvage or purchase in Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole as that is the last food until Aumont-Aubrac.Lodging in Les Estrets: Book Ahead—Only One Gite: Le Gevaudan (Pascal Rousset), Les Estrets; +33 (0)4 66 45 61 90 or +33 (0)6 88 90 97 89; [email protected]; www.legevaudan-gite-chambre.com; Hostel €35 half-board and B&B €72 half-board. Request the 4-person rooms rather than the dormitory. Alt End is Aumont-Aubrac (7.8km further) Lodging in Aumont-Aubrac: La Ferme du Barry (Host: Vincent Boussuge), 9 rue du Barry, 48130 Aumont-Aubrac; +33 (0)4 66 42 90 25; +33 (0)6 71 83 17 46; [email protected]; www.ferme-du-barry.com; €34-40 half-board or B&B €56 double; located in renovated farm and famous for aligot (cheese and potato dish); or Les Sentiers Fleuris (Host: Christianne and Andre Gibelin); 7 place du Portial, 48130 Aumont-Aubrac, Lozere; +33 (0)4 66 42 94 70; +33 (0)6 42 64 80 02; [email protected]; www.sentiers-fleuris.com; €42 Half-board or €52 half-board in B&B—centrally located next to town hall.
8/6Sept 7Friday
Les EstretsTo
Finieyrols
24/107 939M to 1,205M
693.6 to R1569.2 to F
6:30679M Ascent417M
Descent
2/4 Aubrac Region: Sparsely populated volcanic and grantie plateau between Truyere River on the north and the Lot River to the south. 50,000 cattle—Aubrac breed is dominant and were originally raised for milk. Small huts in fields were used to make cheese. Laguiole cheese is local and knives are a local craft/art product. Fields have wild narcissus and orchids (spring). Route: Two long climbs and two steep descents. Initial climb to 1100 in 5km and then double descent/climb to 1040 over next 7km and then long steep climb to 1205 over 10km. Whew! Aumont-Aubrac: First stop is Aumont-Aubrac at 7.6 km after first descent—should have a market on Friday morning at Place du Foirail and visit
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Church of Saint Stephen built in 12th century with Romanesque elements. Watch for intersection of another GR with GR 65 in Aumont-Aubrac and stay on GR 65. La Ferme du Barry Gite is a wonderful place for a delicious lunch and break (or to stay).La Chaze-de-Peyre: 5km past Aumont-Aubrac is La Chaze-de-Peyre which is worth a break-stop to see the lovely Bastide Chapel built 1522. Then a 10-12km climb to Finieyrols.Services/Water: Buy provisions in Aumont-Aubrac as no other groceries until Nasbinals. Only food in Finieyrols is for guests. Lodging in Finieyrols: La Rose de l’Aubrac, Finieyrols, 48100 Prinsuejols, Lozere; +33 (0)4.66.45.78.55; 06.08.31.55.61; [email protected]; www.larosedelaubrac.wixsite.com; €48/half board; 4 double rooms; excellent meals as owner had his own restaurant. Also, Gite Auberge Les Gentianes is a very nice, large Gite—I stopped there just to see it and friends stayed there and said it was very nice.
9/7Sept 8
Saturday
Finieyrols To
Aubrac
18.9/125.91205M to 1300M
674.7 to R1550.3 to F
5:00518M Ascent413M
Descent
4/5 Route: Very scenic tracks and footpaths across the sun and wind-exposed Aubrac plateau. Continuous steep up and down for first 10km to Nasbinals. Then very steep 8km climb and short 1km descent to Aubrac. 19km after Nasbinals to Saint-Chely-d’Aubrac is a UNESCO WHS.Services/Water: Buy food in Aumont-Aubrac as no grocers until Saint-Chely-d’Aubrac.Sites in Rieutort-d’Aubrac: 4km after Finieyrols are the communal oven and two granite watering troughs in this village.Sites in Nasbinals: Nasbinals Romanesque church of Saint-Marie built from brown basalt with unique octagonal bell tower. Entrance is double vaulted.Sites in Aubrac: Church of the Domerie; Maison d’Aubrac; Remains of 12th century monastery and hospital abandoned during French Revolution.Lodging in Aubrac: La Colonie is highly recommended (Cyril Lerisse), D987,, 12470 Aubrac, Aveyron; +33 (0)5 65 51 64 79; [email protected]; www.la-colonie.com/fr; €46 single & €18 dinner; located near village centre on GR 65. Great alternative is the historic Tower of English (Gite d ‘etape communal La Tour des Anglais)—book by calling the Hotel Domerie at +33 05 65 44 28 42—I tried to reserve on their website and by email without
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response so called and the Hotel staff speak excellent English; 10 euros for shared bedroom in medieval tower which is the oldest gite in France—8 bunk beds per room and you pay/register at the Hotel Restaurant de la Domerie; breakfast and dinner at Hotel is 22 euros if you stay at the Tower. I actually ended up getting a good rate at the Hotel when I was checking into the Tower and stayed in a private room. Friends who stayed at the Tower said it was fine and very interesting.
10/8Sept 9
Sunday
Aubrac To
Saint-Come-D’Olt
23.9/149.81300M to
370M
650.8 to R1526.4 to F
7:00536M Ascent1469MDescent(Ouch!!)
2/3 Route: 20km of descent today. Initial descent of 400M over 7km to Saint-Chely-d’Aubrac on rocky path which is last place on route for any provisions/lunch. Then on asphalt roads the rest of the way to the Lot River Valley and Saint-Come-D’Olt. Be careful when leaving Saint-Chely-d’Aubrac not to get on the GR 6 in a north-east direction as it uses the same red/white markings. Then 3km modest climb followed by 10km descent from 900 to 400 then climb to 500 and steep final descent into Saint-Come-D-Olt. Note: Bonneval Abbey is a special place but not exactly sure if variant starts at Aubrac or where—need to confirm. Probably adds too much time/rigor to early days of this trip and I have decided to enjoy the convent in Saint-Come-D’Olt instead. MMDD guide has the route and map. Services/Water: Have lunch in Saint-Chely-d’Aubrac, fill water, and buy snack for trail as no other services until Saint-Come-D’Olt.Sites in Saint-Chely-d’Aubrac: Church of Our Lady of the Poor which has a nice sundial and 15th century bell tower that once was a defense tower. When leaving village, note small bridge across stream with 16th century stone cross and a pilgrim depiction holding a stick and a rosary—World Heritage Monument Bridge of Pilgrims.Sites in Saint-Come-d’Olt: Saint-Chely-d’Aubrac has Bridge of the Pilgrims (World Heritage Monument); Saint-Come-d’Olt has church Saint-Come which has flamboyant Gothic style and a “flaming” rare twisted spire. Main doors have beautiful carving. Also see Church of Saint Damien. Don’t miss the nuns sing vespers in the convent at Saint-Come-d'Olt and it is a gite where I might stay, also.Lodging in Saint-Come-d’Olt: Espace Angele Merici & Gite du Couvent de Malet, Route d’Aubrac, 12500 Saint-Come-d’Olt, Aveyron; +33 (0)5 65 51
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03 20; [email protected]; www.hotel-malet-aveyron.fr ; €33 half-board; 27 places in rooms of 3 to 6 in beautiful convent where we participate in the service. Located slightly north of the Camino route (less than two blocks—600 feet) on the D987, 500m before village. Reservation: I reserved on their website and paid with a credit card: 76.93 euros for twin room (58.43 euros) plus 18.50 for half-board. Can cancel on 24 hrs notice; Gite rooms in dorm are much less expensive. Alternative accommodation at Gite Communal del Roumiou—excellent dinner and large breakfast.
11/9Sept 10Monday
Saint-Come-d’Olt
ToEstaing
20.3/170.1 370M to
314M
630.5 to R1506.1 to F
5:00710M Ascent769M
Descent(less on variant)
3/4 Lot River Valley: The Lot runs 480 km from Cevennes mountains to the Garonne River after Cahors.Route: Caution—this route and the route the next day are both much more challenging than the guidebooks and websites suggest…the GR65 is not very direct on these two sections so effort and forward progress are not closely related. There are a lot of hills—in particular, the route from Espalion to Estaing is just plan tough with washed out trail sections and steep climbs…Espalion is a wonderful village to explore, but make sure you allow sufficient time for the walk to Estaing so you aren’t caught in the deep woods after sunset…taking the road/asphalt part way from Espalion to Estaing is an easier alternative if you are running out of daylight or are exhausted. Note that GR65 doesn’t enter Estaing—you have to turn right and cross the bridge into Estaing and then backtrack in the morning to get back on the GR 65. Route Variant: You can avoid the first climb/descent by taking an unmarked variant to Espalion after Saint-Come-d’Olt which is flat and borders the Lot River and avoids the climb to the statue of Notre-Dame-de-Vermus—I really enjoyed the climb to the statue but it is challenging and not very direct. Church of Perse is along the variant. Saint-Pierre de Bessuejouls/Church of St. Peter has 11th century bell tower and lovely chapel with carved alter—climb steep staircase in back of church to get to chapel. I loved this Church—so elegant and ancient.Sites in Espalion: 4,400 population and a beautiful town on the Lot River. Castle of Calmont-d-‘Olt was a medieval military fortress in 12-1300’s. It
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now has a medieval war museum and great views of the valley. Also has the UNESCO WHS Old Bridge (Pont-vieux) which was a toll bridge in the 11 th
Century—current bridge built in 14th Century. Church of Saint Hilary of Persia is beautiful—part of larger monastery that was destroyed in the War of Religions. Beautiful tympanum (last judgment theme) and frescoes. Sites in Estaing: one of the most beautiful villages in France. Estaing Castle is a 15th century Gothic castle built on the site of an original 850 castle. Estaing family was one of the oldest noble families—last male was guillotined in 1794. Gothic Bridge over River Lot is world heritage site.Dinner in Estaing—many nice options just as you enter the village across the bridge.Lodging in Estaing: Chambres d’Hotes Dijois, (Mr. Urbain Dijois), Les Chenevieres, 12190 Estaing, Averyron, France +33 (0)5.65.44.71.51; +33 (0)6.70.38.42.81; [email protected]; 37 euros per person; 4 rooms in coqy B&B located on GR 65/Lot as leaving Estaing—garden and terrace; Reservation: I received email confirmation for 1 bedroom for 37 euros plus .60 tax, breakfast included. Dinner is in town on my own. The included photo plan showing location of hotel. [La Marelle is closed]
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12/10Sept 11Tuesday
EstaingTo
Espeyrac
22.8/192.9 314M to
387M
607.7 to R1483.3 to F
5:30971M ascent898M
descent
2/3 Route: Caution when leaving Estaing to decide whether to follow GR 65 or the GR 6 which is in the same area and uses the same red-white signage. Gite recommends taking the variant on GR 6—see below. GR 65 is “chaotic”--Rolling hills for 4km then steep ascent from 350 to 650 in 2km followed by steep descent 550 over 2km and then pretty steep ascent to 650 over 5km to just past Golinhac (653) and then 5km of rolling descent after Golinhac followed by really steep descent to Espeyrac at 387M.Alternate Route Through Campuac is 2 km shorter and much more scenic and less chaotic per Gite’s website—here is the map—take GR 06 from Estaing and Gite is shortly after GR06 meets GR65. I took the GR 06 and it was great—also, the grocery store in Campuac is well-stocked and there are picnic tables just across the road by the Church.
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Alternative: Can take a bus to Conques 30km and use those days to explore Conques and on the Cele River Variant.Water/Services: Fill water at Estaing and pack lunch—there is more water before Golinhac, but no other provisions.Sites in Golinhac: Church of Saint Martin has some Romanesque features that date to original 11th century Benedictine priory. Present 14th century structure was modelled on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem.Sites in Espeyrac: Church of Saint Peter is built on site of a feudal castle.Lodging in Esperyrac: 2km before Esperyrac on the Camino is Gite d’Etape Chretien-Accueil au Soulie de Saint Jacques, Hameau le Soulie, 12140 Espeyrac, Averyron, +33 (0)5.65.72.90.18; +33 (0(6.42.35.69.01; [email protected]; www.gite-soulier-saint-jacques.com; This is a Must-Stay Gite—Do Not Miss it!; donation for bed, dinner, and breakfast); founded by former pilgrims in hamlet of Soulie and run by volunteers—simple accommodation of 11 beds in 2 rooms and 2 double rooms. Garden and
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access to Chapel of Saint Fleur nearby. 13/11
Sept 12Wed.
Espeyrac To
Conques
12.5KM/205.4
387M to 278M
595.2 to R1470.8 to F
2:30419M ascent513M
descent
Steady climb for first 4km from 387 to 625M then Initial climb for about 4km from 387 to 625M then gentle descent for 6km to 562M at Saint-Marcel followed by the ONE OF THE STEEPEST DESCENTS OF THE VIA PODENSIS over 1.5km to 278M at Conques. Slippery when wet—if raining, consider taking the bus.Conques Sites: One of the most beautiful villages in France. Nice historic quarter. Abbey of Saint-Foy—tremendous Romanesque architecture and welcoming monks. Old Bridge over the Dourdou (on exit route) is World Heritage Monument. Attend the 9pm nightly Mass for pilgrims in cathedral and the organ concert that follows—11th Century church has tremendous tympanum over entrance of Last Judgment. Beautiful stained glass windows from 1987-94; Treasury Museum is worth visiting.Lodging in Conques:BOOK AHEAD-- Centre d’Accuell, Abbaye Sainte Foy; 05.65.69.89.43; [email protected]; www.abbaye-conques.org; €23-30 single room; Don’t eat dinner there—go out to eat. 96 places total. Nightly mass and explanation of tympanum at the adjacent Abbaye is just unbelievable—be sure to get there early and stay through the organ concert at the end…about 2 hours total. This is a “Must-see” experience. Nice Alternative lodging is: Chambre d’Hotes au Nid d’Angele, (Veronique Mary), Rue Charlemagne, 12320 Conques, Aveyron; +33 (0)6 60 87 28 61; [email protected]; www.aunidangele.com; €45-65 1 person; Lovely B&B that opened 2015—cool décor; 3 rooms. On the GR 65 descending from the Cathedral. Tourist Office in Conques is Outstanding: Staff can assist with future reservations and can book your canoe needs and other needs on the Cele Variant (though some of the small Gites on Cele variant may need to be booked even earlier than this once you are confident of your expected progress on the trail.)
14/11Sept 13
Thursday
Rest Day in Conques or
Earlier if needed
Visit the Tourist Office: Confirm Canoe/kayak rental on Cele variant if haven’t already done so.
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15/12Sept 14Friday
ConquesTo
Livinhac-le-Haut
25.8/231.2 278M to
209M
569.4 to R1445 to F
6:151139M Ascent1212M Descent
4/3 Route/Services: No provisions on this stage unless you take the variant of Noailhac, but official road is better. Steep climb from 278M to 500M in 2km then 3 hills/peaks over 8.7km followed by steep descent from 500M to 207M at Decazeville followed by a really steep climb to 344 at Saint-Roch and a steep descent to 209 in Livinhac-le-Haut. Climb to Saint-Roch from Decazeville on asphalt is tough. Be careful to stay on GR65 between Conques and Decazeville: after the Chapel of Saint Foy, there is a junction with a variant through Noailhoc; and also where the GR 62B descends into Firmi before Decazeville as it uses the same red and white way markings.Lodging in Livinhac-le-Haut: Must-stay Gite—Absolutely Fabulous--Great place to stay with an Italian feel to it is #BioGîteLaVitaéBella — in Livinhac-le-Haut. Hosts Jani and Andrew are Pilgrims and create the most wonderful atmosphere in their Gite—similar atmosphere to Gite in Souilie/Espayrac with “donativo payment for food/drinks” but more cozy and much smaller. Communal meal is wonderful including vegetarian. Wonderful place for anyone with musical talent—they have every conceivable instrument and love to jam. Request picnic lunch on checkin. Another nice place a couple minutes from town is http://www.chemindecompostelle.com/magnanerie/index.htmlAlt places to stay in Decazeville (20km) or St. Roche (22.5km): St. Roche has a magnificent gite per someone on Facebook site.
16/13Sept 15
Saturday
Livinhac-le-Haut
ToFigeac
24.4/255.6209M to 201M
545 to R1420.6 to F
7:00707M Ascent 731 M
Descent
2/3 Quercy Region: Extends from Figeac to Moissac. It is a dry limestone plateau, called the Causses, with small oak trees. There are many pigeonniers (dove lofts) that dot the countryside—pidgeon guano was fertilizer. Cahors is the traditional capital. Duck, black truffles, and red wine are local dishes. It was inhabited by Celtic people before Roman invasion in 1st Century and subsequently by Visgoths (5th Century) and Franks (6th Century) and under English control in 1300-1433 (end of 100 years War) and a battleground of the War of Religions in 1500’s between Roman Catholics and Huguenots (French Protestants). Route: Steep climb from 209M to 408M over 5.7km to Montredon then moderate descent and moderate climb over 11km and final short but steep descent to 201M at Figeac.
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Services/Water: Buy food and fill water in Livinhac-le-Haut as there are no services until Figeac.Chapelle de Sainte-Madeleine between Lacoste and Bord; Sites in Figeac: Figeac has nice historical quarter with Abbey of Saint Saviour built in the 11th Century, Coin Museum, the Balene Palace, the Place des Ecrcrres and the Saint-Jacques Hospital (World Heritage Monument); Plaza of the Scriptures; Champollion Museum.Plan to eat at restaurant in Figeac as no dinner at Le Soleilho.Lodging in Figeac: I stayed at a B&B: CH/GdE Le Soleilho (Martine and Jean-Louis)—a medieval building in the center of town but no dinner served (only breakfast), so plan to eat at one of the many wonderful places in this very large town; 8 rue Prat; +33 05 65 38 42 62; +33 06 75 89 96 53; [email protected].; www.chambres-hotes-figeac.com/chambreshotes-fegeac-lot.html; There are many nice Gites and other accommodations in Figeac: Gite -Accueil Pelegrín Lacoste is a very nice small place—only room for 3 pilgrims, but great meal and hospitality; Chemin des Anges...very close to town, the train, and hosts are past pilgrims, plus great food; Gîte Le Passiflore is highly recommended as is La Cassagnole—Le Relais St. Jacques (marie-Claude et Jesus).
17/14Side-tripSept 16Sunday
Figeac to Rocamadour and return
same day by train; walk to
Beduer NOTE: I skipped
Rocamadour as I didn’t
want to break my walking
rhythm with a train trip nor
13.5/269.1630M to
285M
531.5 to R1407.1 to F
3:30 walking225M Ascent 140M
Descent
Route: Cele Valley route, GR 651, uses the same red and white way markings. It departs from the GR 65 in Mas-de-la-Croix near Beduer where it descends into the Cele Valley. It rejoins the Lot River near the village of Bouzies where it follows the GR 36 along the Lot to Cahors where it reconnects with the GR 65. The variant is 10km shorter but is more difficult than the GR 65. Link to helpful tourist map/brochure (you can pickup a copy at Tourist Office in Conques): https://www.tourisme-lot.com/sites/tourisme-lot/files/brochures/files/171227_carte_touristique_lot_tourisme_2018_bd_0.pdf Services/Water: Always keep food and water supplies topped off on Cele Valley variant.Sites in Racamadour: stunning village with grotto that has 20,000 year old
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did I want to be in a huge
tourist-destination site. It also would have
been too much for one day to
take train to/from
Rocamadour and then walk
to Beduer.
paintings; Black Madonna and Stations of the Cross trail.Train: Book early train to Rocamadour and spend 4 hours there and then train back arriving Figeac about 2pm. Trains from Fegeac to Rocamadour run every 3 hours or so and take 30-40 minutes. Need a taxi or 4km walk from Rocamadour station to the city. See my Note in left column—I didn’t do the trip to Rocamadour.Lodging: Plan to walk 13.5 km to Beduer and stay at nice Gite in Beduer: Le Bedigas (Nadia and Philippe) (Phone: +33 6 74 46 17 17) http://lebedigas.blogspot.fr/); [email protected]; which is near
beginning of the Cele Valley variant. 18/15Cele
VariantSept 17Monday
Beduer to Brengues
19.0/288.1
285M to 170M
512.5 to R1388.1 to F
5:00263 M Ascent358M
Descent
Route: Descent into Brengues is stunning and tricky.Sites in Corn: see new Salon de the/restaurant/saladerie; on your left and a nice restaurant up high at “Auberge Laparrot”. Corn is a fairytale village.Sites in Espagnac: Ruins of convent of Val Paradis founded by Aymeric Hebrard de Saint Sulpice—convent burned during 100 years war.Lodging in Espagnac: Gite Communal—there is a nice restaurant next door.Lodging in Brengues: Reserve ahead—only 8 beds in two rooms; GdE/CH La Brenguoise; le bourg 46320 Brengues, Claude Lecomte; 06.30.20.68.06 et 09.63.26.31.46; labrenguoise.fr; [email protected]; Also, “Cote Falaise” en bas du village offers rooms and also function s as boulangerie/épicerie with adjacent café, bar-restaurant and outdoor eating area. Alternate End of Stage in Marcilhac-sur-Cele: A more interesting village to end this stage is Marcilhac-sur-Cele and this avoids the early walk the next day to get to the canoe/kayak departure point by 11am in Marcilhac-sur-Cele. Taking the road part way from Brengues to Marcilhac-sur-Cele saves 5+ kilometers.Notes Re Variant Cities and Distances: Included towards the back of this document is a 2018 copy of the Cele Valley information from Bronwen Perry, one of the administrators of the Via Podiensis Facebook site (the
17
information is pinned to the front page of that site and Brownwen is a wonderful resource regarding any question you might have about the Cele Valley or the Via Podiensis.) The following is Cele Valley information from the Cicerone Guide: Instead of taking the traditional Via Podensis through Cajarc (31.5km) and Varaire (26.2km) and on to Cahors (32.2 for total of 89.9 km) follow River Cele to Bouzies where it intersects with the Lot River and joins the GR36. Continue west 21km along the common course of the GR 36 and GR46 to rejoin the main GR65 in Les Bories-Basses.
Beduer 4km/4 Boussac 2km/6 Corn (accommodations should be available here) 4km/10 Sainte-Eulalie 3km/13 Espagnac (Gite d’etape communal) 4km/17 Brengues (Bakery/shop; Hotel-restaurant de la Vallee) 4km/21 Saint-Sulpice 7km/28 Marcilhac-sur-Cele 9km/37 Sauliac-sur-Cele 3.5km/40.5 Chateau de Cuzals 2.5km/43 Espinieres 4km/47 Cabrerets 5.5km/50.2 Conduche 1.5km/51.7 Bouzies
o Take Tow Path Short-cut if Walking: Take shortcut on tow path via old railway bridge (before St. Cirq-Lapopie)…saves 4 km (the Tow Path is now very well marked and begins in the main park in Bouzies—easy to find and nice and flat to walk).
4km/55.7 Saint-Cirq-Lapopie (Gite St. Cirq Lapopie recommended but may have to book early)
10km/65.7 Concots 7km/72.7 Les Bories-Basses
Route: Take GR651 at Beduer where it splits from GR65.
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19/16Cele
VariantSept 18Tuesday
Brengues to Marcilhac-sur-Cele walking 12.6km; then
canoe/kayak to Caberets 19.9km
32.5/320.6170M to
145M
480 to R1355.6 to F
Long Day
795M Ascent 853M
Descent
Kayak/Canoe Rental and Reservation: The canoe or kayak trip from Marcilhac-sur-Cele to a very well-marked takeout point that is 5 km before Caberets is a wonderful change from walking. It saves about 18 km of walking and the river trip is scenic, relaxed, and exhilarating at a few points (a chute you can take instead of portaging around a dam and the many places where it is deep enough to swim in the cool Cele River.) You can rent single or double canoes/kayaks. There are a number of canoe/kayak services—I had the Tourist Office in Conques make my reservation as I couldn’t get any of the canoe/kayak services to respond to my emails and they didn’t answer their phones. You depart at the bridge in Marcilhac-sur-Cele about 11am and will reach the takeout point in 3-5 hours depending on the river flow and your pace. It is a relatively easy canoe/kayak trip even for a novice. You need to take a picnic lunch—great bakery just before the launch area in Marcilhac-sur-Cele. The service provides a waterproof container to store electronics, passport/money, lunch, a jacket, etc. and these are strapped to the canoe/kayak. Your pack and non-valuable items will be transported in a van to the takeout point. Here are links to information: Nature & Loisirs, Anglanat, 46330 Orniac, +33.5.65.30.25.69, www.nature-et-loisirs.net ; https://www.tourisme-lot.com/en/prepare-your-stay/activities-and-leisures/passion-aventure-658972 also Passion Adventure, Pont de Marcilhac Route de Saint-Chels, +33.6.10.73.73.12 www.location-canoe-cele.com; Water/Services: Get food from bakery in Marcilhac-sur-Cele immediately before the launch area near the bridge and fill water. Sites in Marcilhac-sur-Cele: Site of 10th Century Benedictine Abbey which was pillaged in 1368 during 100 years war; reconstructed in 15th Century but burned by Protestants in 1569 War of Religions.Sites in Sauliac-sur-Cele: ruins of Sauliac castle of Geniez built into cliff in 13th century.Lodging in Caberets: I stayed at Hotel Restaurant des Grottes du Pech Merle, Le Bourg, 46330 Cabrerets in a private room but the Hotel also runs the large and nice Gite Refuge across the street. Guests at both Hotel and Gite can use the river-side pool and eat at the best breakfast buffet on the
19
Camino—they have everything!!! Alternate: I was unable to reserve at Gite du Barry, (Christelle Peyron), Le Bourg, 46330 Cabrerets, Lot, France; +33 (0)5.65.22.91.79; +33,(0)9. 66.88.20.15; [email protected]; www.chemindecompostelle.com/gitedubarry/index.html; Sent email and left messages but got no response. Apparently, Christelle works at the restaurant next door (La Rou) so you might reach her there: €17/pers (sheets included), €42 half-board; located in village center. Dining in Caberets: La Rou is a simple but very nice place for dinner.
20/17Cele
VariantSept 19Wed.
Caberets to Saint-Cirq-
Lapopie with morning at
Grotte du Pech Merle and then
Walk to Bouzie’s or Saint-Cirq-Lapopopie
10/330.61
470 to R1345.6 to F
Relaxed Day
319M Ascent242 M
Descent
Route: Take Tow Path route from park in Bouzies. It is very well marked.Sites in Caberets: Pech Merle cave is along the route out of Cabrerets (only 950m (but almost straight-up…whew!) after Cabrerets, directly on the route. This is a Must-see destination—amazing 25,000 year-old cave paintings. Dress warm as cave is cool—jacket. Opens at 9.30. The guided tour is about 45 minutes. The English tour is at 10.30. There is a nice exhibit, also, so 2-3 hours minimum visit. Taxi: If necessary, consider taking a taxi from Cabrerets to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie or even on to Pasturat. after seeing caves…saves 15km but miss the tow path and a beautiful walk.Sites in Saint-Cirq-Lapopie: Perched on a cliff over the Lot, it has 13 historic monuments and is one of the most beautiful villages in France. Lustal is a very nice place to eat.Lodging in Saint-Cirq-Lapopie: I stayed at a hotel in Bouzie’s because the B&B A La Source (located half-way between Bouzies and Saint-Cirq-Lapopie) stood me up—they simply “closed for the day” because I was the only guest and they didn’t even call or email me. That was my only bad experience with reservations on the Via Podiensis or Del Norte. Anyway, there are many nice places in Saint-Cirq-Lapopie and I recommend staying there as it is a unique and historic city to explore but you might need to book well ahead.
21/18Cele
VariantSept 20
Saint-Cirq-Lapopie to Bears/Vers
22/352.6221M to ?
448 to R
6:00525M Ascent 609M
Route: Take GR 36/46 from S-C-L to Vers via Pasturat; Take the tow path from Saint-Cirq-Lapopie to Bouzie’s; it is possible to take a taxi to Pasturat if needed or if you want to extend this stage to Cahors; Lodging in Bears/Vers: CH “Les Rives d’Olt” DP; 13 Impasse de l’ecluse
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Thursday 1323.6 to F Descent 46090 Bears (it is a place called “Bears” near village of Vers; 13 impassee of the lock Arcambal Siret 810 622 00100016—RCS Cahors;); (Evelyne Muller et Phillippe Andlauer); 06 74.42.12.13 et 05.65.30.18.62 ; [email protected]; [email protected]; This is an exceptional B&B—the hosts both speak excellent English and are extremely interesting and warm hosts. I highly recommend them.
22/19Cele
VariantSept 21Friday
Bears/Vers toCahors
17/369.6
431 to R1306.6 to F
4:00257M Ascent308M
Descent
Route: I really enjoyed the route to Cahors and I chose to take the options that ran along the river most of the way. My hosts in Bears gave me alternate routing tips that provided some wonderful vistas and also great riverside trail views. Sites in Cahors: Two WHMs—Cathedral of Saint Entienne and beautiful Valentre bridge (14th Century)—find the hidden devil on the bridge. Fontaine des Chartreux.Lodging in Cahors: CH “Chez Pierre” 62, rue Etienne Brives 46000 Cahors; Pierre Capredon [email protected]; 06.09.96.28.32—located in the old town and run by a Cahors local who is very knowledgeable and helpful re places to visit and he speaks English well. Pierre is a classic and this is a “Must Stay B&B”. A nice alternate is Le Relais Des Jacobins which is run by a great guy called Serge who has wonderful advice and a great backyard to relax in the shade. Buy Final Section of Miam Miam DoDo in Cahors if you need it.
23/19Sept 22
Saturday
Rest Day in Cahors
24/20Sept 23Sunday
Cahors to Lascabanes
23.5/393.1 134M to
184M
407.5 to R1283.1 to F
5:45652M Ascent 590M
Descent
Route/Services: Three steep climbs (first one has great views back to Cahors) and two descents from 134M to 302M in 12km and then flat for 12.5 km with short steep descent into Lascabanes. Lascabanes has no services other than the gite. Site in Labastide-Marnhac: fortified medieval village-only Romanesque chapel remains.Lodging in Lascabanes: Gite le Nid des Anges (Mrs. Cecile Maupoux), Le Bourg, 46800 Lascabanes; +33 (0)5 65.31.86.38; [email protected]; €13.50 per person/32 half-board; 17 places in
21
rooms of 2-5 persons housed in former presbytery with a large vaulted dining room and piano ; L’etape Bleue (marie et Jean Michel) has one B&B room and 4 dormatories in a restored farmhouse—it is 800M off the GR65 about 1 km before Lascabanes; and Le Nid des Anges (Cecile); Le Bouy is supposed to have good food. BP: CH De Lanies et CH Le Clos de Gamel.
25/21Sept 24Monday
Lascabanes to Lauzerte
23.8/416.9 184M to
218M
383.7 to R1259.3 to F
5:45698M Ascent 654M
Descent
2/3 Route: Short but steep climb from 184 to 269M over 2.7km then three moderate ascents and two moderate descents before final short climb to Lauzerte. Mostly asphalt. Steep descent after Montlauzen can be slippery.Montcuq: Name means “my back side” and is source of humor in France; medieval walls were raised by order of the king in 1229 and only a square tower remains and the Church of Saint Hilary which has octagonal clock tower and impressive frescoes.Sites in Lauzerte: Lauzerte is also one of France’s most beautiful fortified, medieval villages. It is well worth time to explore this rather large, preserved hill-top village with many interesting sites and fascinating history of English-occupancy, etc. Sites include a relaxing Pilgrim’s Garden and the Church Saint-Barthelemy.Lodging in Lauzerte: ;Gite Les Figuiers (Bernadette et Michel) is modern B&B located on ascent to the village of Lauzerte--€29 for single room also has hostel and dinner/breakfast—hosts are famous for hospitality; Also, Gite communal (Corinne) is very nice and is in center of village. Alternate: Villa Venou which is a historic farm house/tower several km from Lauzerte but they will pick you up in a car if you call. Also, Ch/Gde Chez Francoise.
26/22Sept 25Tuesday
Lauzerte to Moissac (Top
City to Explore)
27.1/444 218M to
79M
356.6 to R1232.2 to F
6:45681M Ascent 829M
Descent
2/2 Route: After short, steep climb and descent, it is gentle hills as route gradually descends to 79M in Moissac. Mostly on asphalt roads today.Services: farm stand may be open before Durfort-Lacapelette but bring coins; No water or provisions from Durfort-Lacapelette to Moissac.Sites in Moissac: Abbey of Saint-Pierre with beautiful cloister is a treasure of Romanesque art—WHM. Be sure to attend pilgrim blessing service. Museum of Popular Arts and traditions.Lodging in Moissac: New and small Gite is Gite La Coquille run by a young Pilgrim, Florian, who creates such a positive atmosphere and is a wealth of knowledge about the Camino. La Coquille is literally 50 meters from the
22
Abbey and the amazing Tourist Office in Moissac—great WIFI and area for Pilgrims to relax. Gite Ultreia, 45 avenue Pierre Chabrie, is a charming Gite with garden; dorm and B&B rooms run by Irish Couple—located across from train station; La Petite Lumiere (great dinner even if not staying there) and La Maison du Pont Saint Jacques are very nice—later is located on the canal and has a nice garden.
27/22Sept 26
Wed
Rest Day in Moissac
28/23Sept 27
Thursday
Moissac to Auvillar
21.5/465.5 79M to 117M
335.1 to R1210.7 to F
5:45586M Ascent 549M
Descent
2/2 Gascony Region: Extends from the Atlantic to Pyrenees to Garonne River. Includes vineyards of Armagnac located between Garonne and Adour Rivers. Occuppied by Vascones/Basques, conquered by Rom (1st Century), Visgoths (5th Century), Franks (6th Century), Basques (7th Century), Norsemen (9th Century), and English (1154-1337) when King Phillip VI of France seized it and King Edward II of England declared war and started the Hundred Years War. France finally took it in 1453 and it became part of France in 1607. Dishes include duck confit (duck legs in fat), blood sausage, prunes, foie gras (duck liver), garbure (stew of cabbage and preserved meats), Armagnac (brandy) and Floc (light appertif).Route: Generally flat all day with three hills in first 10km then flat into Auvillar. After Moissac, at the Ecluse (lock) of de l’Espagnette, it is possible to take the flat alternative route that continues along the canal and rejoins the GR 65 at Malause—this avoids several step climbs and descents, is very relaxing, and it is interesting to see all the river traffic and how the locks work. Entering Gascony which was a British controlled region from 1154 (who took it from the Norsemen) until 1453; Alt Early Stop--Lodging in Espalais: Le Par Chemin is recommended.Sites in Auvillar: Plaza and market; Museum of Popular Traditions; Panorama over the Garonne; market hall with 20 Tuscan columns and 17 th Century clock tower. Another truly beautiful fortified medieval village. Built 10th century.Lodging in Auvillar: Association des Amis de Saint Jacques is the highly recommended municipal gite—get key from tourist office if locked. Very
23
nice and free washing machine. The Le Petit Baladin is a hostel and B&B located in the main square with a café and garden. I stayed at Le Petit Baladin and the hosts are just amazing—highly recommend either a shared or private room.Dining in Auvillar: Many good options from pizza to gourmet meals—wonderful village to walk through.
29/24Sept 28Friday
Auvillar to Lectoure
32.8/498.3 117M to
181M
302.3 to R1177.9 to F
8:001003M Ascent 883M
Descent
3/3 Route: Five hills today and only the first one has a steep descent but a lot of up and down all day. After Castel-Arroy, a 7km climb then steep descent and a final climb. This was the first stage I had to skip after getting medical care in Auvillar for tendonitis, but friends who walked it said it is a tough, long stage, so start early.Services/Water: Be sure to fill water and food in Auvillar.Sites in Miradoux: fortified village founded in 1253 is one of the oldest in the region; large 16th century church houses reliquary of Saint Orens (5th Century Bishop in SW France).Sites in Castet-Arrouy: 16th Century church dedicated to Saint Blandine (2nd
century martyr from Lyon) which is a historic monument; beautiful 19th century wall paintings in church.Sites and Mass in Lectoure: Beautiful fortified city was residence of powerful counts of Armagnac in the 17 & 18th centuries; Cathedral has pilgrim blessing daily; Huge bell tower on cathedral of Saint Gervais; Municipal thermal springs in Lectoure—1/2 day pilgrim pass available but cost is minimal—you probably will need to rent/buy a bathing suit from them as they are very particular…no gym shorts and even many types of swim wear are not acceptable: Thermes de Lectoure, 125 rue Nationale +33 5 62 68 56 00; www.valvital.fr/stations-thermales/lectoure .Lodging in Lectoure: Chambres d’Hotes le Clos (€47 single) is near hot springs in restored historic building; many other good lodging options including L’etolle occitane & CH/GdE Residence Le Marquisat.
30/25Sept 29
Saturday
Lectoure to La Romieu
18.8/517.1 181M to
92M
8:00444M Ascent 443M
3/3 Route: Rolling hills all day from 181M to 190M in La Romieu.La Romieu Sites: Church of Saint-Pierre de La Romieu is an amazing, gothic UNESCO WHS and the route from Lectoure to Condom is also on the UNESCO list. Founded in 11th century by the Benedictine Monk Albert when
24
283.5 to R1159.1 to F
Descent he returned from Santiago pilgrimage, the impressive church was patronized by the Avignon Papacy from 1309-77. Romieu has statues of cats throughout the village by French sculptor, Maurice Serreau, to commemorate the legend of Angeline’s cats which saved the village and its harvest from rats in the 14th century. Here is the history of the cats: https://www.francetoday.com/culture/art_and_design/the_cats_of_la_romieu/Romineu has a Great Restaurant: Le Cardinal is recommended by many Pilgrims. Lodging in La Romieu: Le Couvent de la Romieu, Rue Reglat, +33.5.62.28.73.59; +33.6.88.47.36.17; €32 single room in 18th century former convent that has been updated and is very well-run. Also, CH Va Bene et CH La Maison d’Aux.
31/26Sept 30Sunday
SEE NOTE RE MY
MEDICAL ISSUE—I HAD TO
SKIP BALANCE
OF VIA PODIENSIS
La Romieu to Larressingle
19.6km/536.7
92M to 165M
263.9 to R1139.5 to F
8:15483M Ascent 491M
Descent
2/3 NOTE RE MY MEDICAL ISSUE: Per my blog, I developed excruciating tendonitis in Lauzerette and ultimately had to abandon the balance of Via Podiensis after La Romieu. I continued my Camino 2 ½ weeks later in Irun, Spain where I started and completed the Del Norte and Primitivo Camino routes to Santiago and Fisterra. Consequently, the “planned stages” that follow from La Romieu to SJPP remain in my future plans to complete but I was unable to walk them in 2018.Route: Mostly asphalt to Condom and stage ends in Larressingle which is 1km off the GR65 and is considered one of the most beautiful fortified villages in France. Castelnau sur-l’Auvignon Sites: 12th Century fortress—Nazi burned village to wipe out resistance. Condom Sites: Means confluence of Gaise and Cele streams. Cathedral of Saint-Pierre de Condom—also Gothic. Museo del Armagnac; Statue of the Musketeers is by the Church. Lodging in Condom: Gite Le Champ d’etoiles (Anne Charlotte).Lodging in Larressingle: Ferme de Tollet (Mr. and Mrs. Carrere Tollet), D507, 32100 Larressingle, Gers, France; +33 (0)5.62.28.02.45; +33 (0)6.87.36.04.34; €32.50 half-board; basic accommodation on a working farm with delicious local food; 10 places; also recommended is Gite Le Halte
25
de Larressingle and there are other nice gites and B&Bs. 32/27Oct 1
Monday
Larressingle to Eauze
29.2/565.9165M to 111M
234.7 to R1110.3 to F
5:15643M Ascent 626M
Descent
2/2 Route: crossing fields and vineyards on monotonous route—some on former railroad tracks.Pont d’Artigues: UNESCO bridge—12th century Romanesque bridge over Osse river on former Roman road.Montreal-du-Gers has preserved medieval Historical Center—very beautiful village with narrow streets leading to a central square; Lodging: CH/GdE Ferme du Couloume.Eauze Sites: Gothic cathedral of Saint-Luperc. Archeological Museum displays the 3rd Century Treasure of Eauze—30,000 gold pieces. Julius Caesar conquered Eauze in the 1st Century and it became Roman capital and later became important Catholic diocese; Lodging in Eauze: Café de France is hostel/B&B in main square; Gite Lou Parpalhou is also in historic center of town; Gite Bethanie is recommended on FB site.Alt stopping point is to continue on to Sauboires (another 6.5km past Eauze and Gite d La Hargue is highly rated on FB site;Alt Stop 6.5km Before Eauze: New gite called Couettes et Tartinettes. Staying there evens out the next stage to Nogaro, making it 27.5 rather than 21. You actually stay in a mobile home which sleeps 6 and Pascale serves an excellent vegetarian meal. The number is: 06 62 23 46 72 BUT others say Eauze is really nice so best to push on if able.Alt End of Stage in Lamothe (25.2km): Gite La Casa d’Elena and then Lamothe to Nogaro (27.5km): Gite d’etape Communal Nogaro
33/28Oct 2
Tuesday
Eauze to Lanne-
Soubiran
28.8/594.7 111M to ?M
205.9 to R1081.5 to F
6:45 596M Ascent 627M
Descent
2/2 Route: Gentle hills and Armagnac vineyards.Chapel of the Command Post, Saint Christie Hospital: ruins of 12th Century Knights of Malta command post destroyed by protestants in the War of Religions.Nogaro: Church of Saint Nicholas has beautiful frescos; Town arena features Gascon sport of Course Landaise—bullfighting. Lodging in Lanne-Soubiran: Le Presbytere de Lanne Soubiran, (Marinette Piret), Place de l’Eglise, 32110 Lanne-Soubiran, Gers, France; +33
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(0)5.62.09.70.24; +33 (0)6.43.34.99.45; [email protected]; dormitory and B&B room in restored presbytery with garden.
34/29Oct 3Wed
Lanne-Soubiran
ToAir-Sur-L’Adour
19.4/614.1
186.5 to R1062.1 to F
5:00283M Ascent 333M
Descent
Route: No significant climbs and mostly asphalt and pass through industrial city of Barcelonne-du-Gers just before Air-sur-l’Adour.Aire-sur-l’Adour Sites and Mass: population 8,280; was important Roman city and later was the royal city of the Visgoths (5th Century). Legend of Saint Quitterie—beheaded for not renouncing Christianity—a spring and fountain emerged from spot where she was killed. Benedictine Cathedral and Abbey of Church of Sainte-Quitterie is very interesting.Lodging in Aire-sur-l’Adour: Chapelle des Ursulines in Aire sur l'Adour has a chapel-like room and some of the sleeping rooms are in an old church—unique place that is recommended. Also, Maison Pelerins (Isabelle et Alejandro);
35/30Oct 4
Thursday
Aire-sur-l’Adour to
Arzacq-Arraziguet
33.8/647.9 87M to 235M
152.7 to R1028.3 to F
8:15768MAscent616M
Descent
3/2 Route: Gentle ascent from 87M in Aire-sur-l’Adour to 235M in Arzacq-Arraziguet. Route markings change to white/yellow/blue arrows. Mostly asphalt endless roads. This is a potential stage to skip by taxi is you need to pick up a day.Pimbo Sites: 13th Century document created bastide of Pimbo between abbots of Church and King Henry III of England; Collegiate Church of Saint-Barthelmy is Romanesque. Arzacq-Arraziguet Sites: Not a lot to see here….Romanesque hermitage of Sensacq is dedicated to Apostle Santiago. Alt Stage End in Pimbo (23.5km): Gite d’Etape Communal Pimbo; then Pimbo to Pomps (26.9km): Gite d’Etape Communal Pomps; and Pomps to Sauvelade (27.1km): Gite La Maison du Grillon.Lodging in Arzacq-Arraziguet: Gite Communal.
36/31Oct 5Friday
Arzacq-Arraziguet to
Arthez-de-Bearn
31.1/679 235M to
207M
121.6 to R997.2 to F
7:30688M Ascent 714 M
Descent
3/2 Route: Initial steep descent from 235M to 111M in Louvingnay then a climb to 245M at Fichous-Riumayou followed by descent to 124M in 2.5km at Larreule then flat with gentle ascent at end to 207M at Arthez-de-Bearn.Sites in Larreule: Only Church remains of important Benedictine Abbey.Lodging in Arthez-de-Bearn: Gite Boulangerie Brousse is recommended by several on FB site.
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Sites in Arthez-de-Bearn: medieval bell tower in the Caubin Chapel was part of Knights of Malta structure.
37/32Oct 6
Saturday
Arthez-de-Bearn to
Navarrenx
31.9/710.9207M to
126
89.7 to R965.3 to F
8:00763M Ascent846M
Descent
4/3 Route: Gentle descent from 207M to 83M at Maslacq followed by four hills before final descent to 129M in Navarrenx. County roads, paths and river bridge crossings.Oratory of Notre-Dame-de-Muret: this is a short walk off the GR 65 and is a Byzantine-styled oratory build in 1936 to commemorate one of the oldest sanctuaries in Bearn build in the 11th Century.Sauvelade: a large monestary was once here that was built in 1127. First, Benedictine monks from the nearby forest came to live in it and later Cistercian monks occupied it and sold it off during the French Revolution. All that remains is the Church of Saint James the Greater built of local sandstone in the unusual shape of a Greek cross (as opposed to a Latin cross). Lodging in Sauvelade: Chez Nadette a Sauvelade—beautiful views of Pyrennes and a nice pool; Ecogite is also recommended.Navarrenx Sites: Very beautiful city on the Gave d’Oloron River. Fortifications and monuments of military architechture; Door of Saint-Antoine, Walls, Church Saint-Germain. City resisted a 3-month siege by Catholic armies in 1569 and didn’t fall. Walls were built in 14th Century and fortified in 16th Century. Conversion of Queen Regent of Navarre, mother of King Henry IV and leader of French Protestants, to Calvinism plunged the region into religious wars.Lodging in Navarrenx: L'Alchimiste is highly recommended--they do your laundry and have great vegetarian meals; 10 rue de l’Abreuvoir, 64190 Navarrenx, Pyrenees, Atlantiques, France; +33 (0)9.67.03.26.84; +33 (0)6.32.78.13.76; [email protected]; www.alchimistesurlechemin.com; donation for room, breakfast, and dinner; 11 places in 5 rooms.
38/33Oct 7
Sunday
Navarrenx to Aroue-
lthrorots-Othalby
19.2/730.1129M to 1233M
5:00455M Ascent477M
1/2 Basque Region: French Basque region begins when we cross the Saison River after Charre. It is centered around the Western Pyrenees mountains and makes up the northeast part of the Basque country that consists of seven provinces in Spain and France. Sparsely populated as most people
28
(“Aroue”) 70.5 to R946.1 to F
Descent live in coastal cities of Bayonne (capital of French Basque region) and glamorous Biarritz (a major surfing destination). Many sheep for cheese production. Regional traditions include distinct architecture (white, red-shuttered farm houses), choral singing, and sheep cheese (ossaulraty), red chilies and paprika-flavoured sausages and Bayonne ham. Basque flags are red, white and green.Route: Gentle hills all day on small country roads and paths. Aroue is located 300M off GR65 and you backtrack to GR65 when leaving for Ostabat.Sites in Aroue: Church of Saint Stephen.Lodging in Aroue: Ferme Bohoteguia is highly recommended—delicious dinner and pack lunches for the next day.
39/34Oct 8
Monday
Aroue to Ostabat
23.8/753.9 123M to
162M
46.7 to R922.3 to F
6:00825M Ascent774M
Descent
2/4 Route: This section of GR65 is on the UNESCO WHS list. Four significant climbs and descents today but the main one starts after Larribar and climbs from 100M to 288M in 3km followed by a steep descent to 135M and rolling hills into Obstabat at 162M. Great views of Pyrenees—great view point by Chapel of Soyarce (at km 18.7). Shortcut: Bypass Larribar-Sorhapura by taking short-cut through Uharte-Mie, which reconnects with GR65 north of Harambletz. This saves 2km and, per Michael Cain on FB site, has a nice café open from 11am-2pm with great omlettes. Route Caution re Short-cuts: A member of FB Site gave this caution: “Someone asked about the variant to St. Palais so I'll report on my experience. I spent the previous night about a kilometer before Aroue at the Gite a la Ferme Bohoteguia. At breakfast the owner (Simone) told us all about two "shortcuts" to St. Palais. I decided to try each of them with the hopes of shortening a 19km day into a 16km day. The first one is actually shown in the MMDD on Plan 91 (shown with blue dots). As you approach Aroue, you depart the GR65 and continue on the road through the town of Aroue. About a kilometer beyond, just past the highway sign for the town of Etcharry you will see a large white building with a road leading away to the left. There is also a small sign right above the fire hydrant at the intersection. Turn there and just follow the road for about 2-1/2 km until it reconnects with the GR65. It was easy and saved a kilometer. After
29
reconnecting with the GR65 after the first shortcut, you continue for another 3km to the point on the MMDD Plan 91 labeled Jauregiberria. You will see a large yellow sign directing you off the GR65 onto the second shortcut. My recommendation is...DO NOT follow this "shortcut." He ended up lost and going in a long circle—stay away from turnoff at sign that says “Vers La Voie De La Corte—Et Le Comino Del Norte”.Services/Water: None on route unless you take the short-cut.Site in Harambeltz: Chapel of San Nicolas is restored 12th Century Romanesque Chapel.Lodging in Ostabat: First gite is 1km before Ostabat and is recommended: Gite d Etape Izarrak (M/M Eyharts), Ferme Gaineko Etxea, 64120 Ostabat-Asme, Pyrenees, Atlantiques, France; +33 (0)5.59.37.81.10; +33 (0)6.72.73.78.56; [email protected]; www. Gites-de-france-64.com/ostabat-compostelle/; restored farm with B&B rooms and dormitories, terrace pool and spa; Second is in town: Gite Aire-Ona (Francoise Irigoin), Le Bourg, 64120 Ostabat-Asme; +33 (0)5.59.37.88.75; +33 (0)6.33.65.77.15; [email protected]; www.aireona-gite-stabat.fr/; fully renovated in city center.
40/35End of Via Podensis
Oct 9Tuesday
Ostabat to Saint-Jean-
Pied-de-Port
22.5/776.4162M to
185M
24.2 to R899.8 to F
5:30625M Ascent 613M
Descent
2/4 Route: Gentle climb from 162M to 232M over 10.5km and then gentle descent into SJPP at 185M. Primarily asphalt roads and tracks.Saint-Jean-le-Vieux: population 870, old city occupies a strategic position at the entrance of the Cize plain. Around 15 BC, Romans built a camp here, at the foot of the Pyrenees on the road between Bordeaux and Astorga (Spain). Archaeological excavations have unearthed Roman baths and other objects that are in the local museum. SJPP Sites: Porte de Saint-jacques norther gate is WHM; 17th Century Citadel—great panoramic pictures; Prison des Eveques; Church of Notre Dame du Bout du Pont is 14th Century Gothic on banks of Nive river; Rue d’Espagne has shops, delis, and bakeries; local cheese is special—Ossau-Iraty cheese. Ciudadela, medieval bridge.Pilgrim Welcome Center: 39, rue de la Citadelle.Consider purchasing Clako (Permetherin) so I can retreat my gear for bedbugs for Del Norte or can purchase in Irun, Spain.
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SPdP Lodging: This gite is highly recommended by several on Facebook site: Gite Beilari, 40 rue de la Citadelle, 64220 Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, Pyrenees Atlantiques; +33 (0)5.59.37.24.68; [email protected]; www.beilari.info; €30 half-board; located in the village centre on GR65 with garden and terrace; 18 places in various sized rooms; communal dinner; http://www.beilari.info/en Also: Gite Ulteia and L’Auberge du Pelerin are nice gites located in village center; Maison Donamaria (old French Chateau and gorgeous rooms) and Maison Ziberoa are both top ranked B&Bs near village centre.
41/36Oct 10Wed
[Stage 1 of France
Camino]
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles or
travel to St. Jean de Luz,
Ciboure or Irun if proceeding directly to Del
Norte
24.2/800.61 MILLION
STEPS185M to
953M
0 to R875.6 to F
Route: Very steep climb to 508M at Honto in 5.4km, 817M at Orisson in another 2.5km, 1,087M at Vierge de Biakorri in another 3.8km, 1,306M at Fuente de Bentartea over 5.3km, then flat to Izandorre at 1,310 over 2.4k, and finally the climb to the pass at 1,441 in Collado de Lepoeder over 1.4km. Finally, very steep descent from 1,441 to 953 in Roncesvalles over 4.5km.Decide whether to stay in Roncesvalles: There is a nice Pilgrim mass in the evening so that is a good way to end the first half of my pilgrimage.Bus/Car to Irun/Hendaye: There are several bus/bus-train/car share options to get from Roncesvalles to Irun or Hendaye in about 3 hours.Transport to St. Jean de Luz, Ciboure, or Irun: Consider train from SJPP to St. Jean de Luz: 3 hour train trip; also bus/rideshare options; St. Jean and Ciboure are great places to relax on the ocean (I started my rest/rehab for tendonitis in Ciboure/St. Jean de Luz and loved it) and transport on to Irun is easy to get to start of Del Norte or can start Del Norte in Ciboure/St. Jean de Luz as it is only 12 km to Irun or 25 minutes by train.Decided Not to Walk to Irun: I decided against walking either the difficult GR10 trail or the easier low mountain route or taking Camino Frances to Pamplona (to get a feel for Frances) and then a bus to Irun. Major considerations: 1) conserve/use rest days to reduce risk of physicial/mental burnout—walking to Irun is a 3-4 day, rigorous trip with minimal services/lodging and walking to Pamplona is also a 3-4 day trip with some challenging stretches; 2) I don’t really need “one more challenge” on this trip—initial days of Del Norte are challenging and my body will enjoy a rest
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after completing the Camino from Le Puy; 3) unique opportunity to relax in classic beach towns of France or Spain before starting Del Norte; and 4) opportunity to finalize Del Norte planning/equipment and to take care of any issues that have arisen on the home front or otherwise.Roncesvalles to Zubiri to Pomplona: I likely will want to get started on Del Norte, but also could walk the next two stages of Camino Frances:
Roncesvalles (953M) to Zubiri (527M) is 22km of gradual descent. Zubiri (527M) to Pomplona (460M) is 20.9 km of very moderate
descent.42/43
Oct 11-12Thursday & Friday
Train/Bus/Car from
Roncesvalles to Irun/Hendaye
to start Del Norte or to San
Sebastian for Rest &
Relaxation Days Before Starting Del
Norte
Finalize details for Del Norte—Possible R&R in San Sebastian: I finished my initial tendonitis rehab/rest in San Sebastian—an amazing city that is worth spending several days. It is easy to take a train back to Irun to begin the Del Norte. For Pilgrims from Via Podiensis who are continuing on Del Norte, San Sebastian is another fabulous place for a few rest and relaxation days—stunning beaches, local food, Basque culture, and very accessible shopping for anything you need. Note About Online Booking: I found Booking.com to really be a useful site for lodging along Del Norte. Some Pilgrims object to using such services in principle or because municipal Albergues usually aren’t listed online (and typically are a Pilgrim’s least expensive option). In general, you end up paying a small amount more than if you book direct as the lodging location adds $2-5 US onto the lodging price that they list on Booking.com On the other hand, you also can find some deep discounts on Booking.com I used it from time-to-time and the Wise Pilgrim App for Del Norte indicated all available lodging in each city and which lodging can be booked online—usually through Booking.com The reservation/confirmation process and the link to specific walking directions to the location were sometimes helpful. Because the Del Norte route includes many “tourist” and “surfer” destinations, lodging availability can be tight.Note About My Late Fall Del Norte: I started the Del Norte on October 8, 2018 and arrived in Santiago de Compestella on November 11th and Fisterra on November 17th. Albergues were beginning to close for the season during that time and my notes below about lodging reflect that uncertainty.
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Additionally, during the last days of October, the weather became unusually cold, wet, snowy, and windy—I experienced really challenging conditions from Oviedo to Santiago (the one wonderful break is that the day of my “Hospitals Route” walk from Campiello to Berducedo was an absolute “blue bird” day of sun, warmth, and zero wind. The next day, the gales resumed. I booked a day or two ahead on the Primitivo as I didn’t want to risk an unexpected “closed” or “full” accommodation given the extreme weather.Lodging in Irun: I stayed at albergue "Captain Tximista" aka "Goikoerrota" which is about 3-4 km along the Del Norte Camino. It offers bunkbeds and breadfast—it is somewhat remote but you can order pizza or dinner delivered or bring food to cook. In Irun, the municipal hostel/albergue or the Bowling Guesthouse; C. Mourlan Michelena 2; +34.943.611.452; www.pensionbowlingirun.com; online booking; central location near train station and start of Del Norte.Pickup Credential if Needed: Hostel of Pilgrim of Irun provides credential; C. Lucas de Berroa, 18 1@D; +34.640.361.640; [email protected]; 8 people per room.Consider a rest day or two in San Sebastian: The initial stage of Del Norte is one of the most difficult on any Camino if you take the high route, so a day of rest might be in order and San Sebastian is well worth spending an extra day or two.
44/1Stage 1 of Del Norte
Oct 13Saturday
Begin Del Norte Camino:
Irun to San Sebastian
26.5/827.1
849.1 to F
6:00710M ascent
and 720m
descent
5 (terrain)/3
(way marking)
Route: Start Del Norte at abandoned middle Santiago Bridge on the Bidasoa river on the French Border. Take the high route on ridgeline above Bay of Biscay passing Neolithic dolmens, medieval towers, and castle ruins. Sign says “alpinist pilgrims” keep straight on. Low route is much more gentle and is a nice path through heavy woods but you miss the vistas of the high route. Passage of San Juan—at exit go to pier for small boat passage to other side of Ria de Pasajes. These are stunningly beautiful parts of Del Norte. 300M climb starts after 3kms and on top of mountain/hill for 10km then 300M descent to sea level and then final double-hill that climbs to 210M before steep descent into San Sebastion.Services: No services after Sanctuary of Guadalupe where there is a
33
fountain and a bar.Alt Stopping Point is the cozy hostel of Pasajes/Passages de San Juan. This is a nice stopping point if one starts from Irun later in the day or if you want to break up a really challenging first stage.San Sebastian Sites: Cathedral del Buen Pastor—neo-gothic modeled after Cologne cathedral; Church of San Vicente is older Gothic; La Concha beach and Miramar Palace, the Ensache, the Casco Antiguo; old section of town is the Parte Vieja near Monte Urgull which has amazing local food and architecture; other beach is Playa de la Zurrioloa flanked by big hill Monte Igueldo that has a funicular to the park on top). Naval Museum shows history of Basque seafaring.San Sebastian Lodging: BOOK IN ADVANCE and consider a Rest Day here after first stage of Del Norte (rather than relaxing too much in Irun). Pension Artea; C. San Bartolome, 33-1 izq; +34.943.052.780; www.pensionartea.com; online booking; near Camino route and beach of La Concha; €35 Single room. Kaixo Backpackers Hostel has singles for €30-70.
45/2Oct 14Sunday
San Sebastian to Zarautz
18.5/845.6
830.6 to F
5:30520M of ascent
and descent
5/2 Route: Beautiful stage facing the sea. Beach access only at beginning and end. Gradual ascent out of Sebastian to 300M over 10km then steep descent to Orio and then two hills to 100M before Zarautz. Lodging in Zarautz: Alt Stopping Point is Orio hostel. Orio’s Plateresque Ermita de San Martin de Tours has a long, covered porch to relax on.Zarautz Sites: Magellan’s ship was built here. Important shipping town. Church of Nuestra Senora la Real contains the tomb of the Pilgrim. Torre Luzea is a 15th century Gothic Building.Lodging in Zarautz: Zarautz Hostel or Hotel Ekia Petsioa or Galerna Zarautz Hostel. Determine if I will stay two nights (for trip to Azpeitia).
46/side trip
Oct 15Monday
Zarautz to Azpeitia
(Birthplace of St. Ignatius)
Take Bus or Taxi
Finalize Travel to/from Azpeitia and book Rooms Accordingly (whether to stay two nights in Zarautz) Azpeitia is directly south of Zumaia about 20km and south west of Zarautz and southeast of Deba. Confirm logistics locally, but best route appears to be Lurraldebus bus from Zarautz to Azpeitia-Sanjuandegi that departs hourly, takes 38 minutes, and costs $3. Azpeitia is
34
a nice full day trip—Sanctuary and Tower House are open 8am-2pm and 3:30-7pm. Mass in Bascilica is at 11am daily (Basque language) and 6pm (September) or 7pm (October) in bilingual.
47/3Oct 16
Tuesday
Zarautz to Deba
24/869.6
806.6 to F
5:30640 M ascent
and descent
3/4 Route: Another beautiful stage with views of coast. Three climbs—initial climb to 180M out of Zarautz and then gradual descent over 8km followed by steeper decent to Zumaia at sea level then moderate ascent out of Zumai and continuous up and down for 10km ending with ascent to 300M just after Itziar and final steep descent to Deba.Alt Route: at Zarautz exit, can follow pleasant promenade to Getaria or take path though the mountains passing the hermitage of Santa Barbara—promenade is recommended by Gronze so we see the interesting town of Getaria (home of Juan Sebastian Elcano who took over Magellan’s fleet after Magellan was killed and he was the one who brought the ships home—tomb is in Church of San Salvador)and higher route is recommended by Cicerone.Zumaia is a notable walled town—target of piracy. Museo Zuloaga has Goya, El Greco and Zurburan and Zuloaga (it is his home). Church of San Pedro has gargoyle-lined entrance and excellent late Gothic pointed arches and a star vault over the apse.Deba Sites: Church of Santa Maria is a National Monument—must see. Enjoy the beach—won’t see the coast for several days after Deba.Lodging in Deba: Geltoki Pilgrim Hostel is in EuskoTren station but rated pretty highly—donativo; you must first register at the Municipal Information office, in Ifarkale street (check hours) before you can access the Hostel; Pension Zumardi has online booking and has single rooms for €40-55;
48/4Oct 17Wed
Deba to Markina
23/892.6
783.6 to F
7:00915M ascent
& 830M descent
5/2 Route and Services: Loneliest stage of Del Norte—no intermediate services so take food and water; path leaves coast for rural Basque countryside; strong climbs. Intial steep climb out of Deba to 300M in 5km followed by 100M descent and then steep climb to 500M over 4km followed by gradual descent to 400M over 8km and finally a very steep 400M descent into Markina which is at 90M.Water fountain 9.3km before Markina and shelter.
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Can extend stage 6km past Markina to stay at fascinating Monastery of Zenarruza where Cistercian monks have 1-room, 10-bunk Albergue that includes dinner. I stayed in Zenarruza and have listed it as one of my “must see/must stay” places including attending the evening vespers led by the few/aged Monks who remain at the Monastery.Lodging in Markina: Markina hostel for pilgrims is nice in back of the Convent of Las Carmelitas next to Town Hall.Markina Sites: Church of the Assumption, Church of Santa Maria and hexagonal Sanctuary of San Miguel de Arretxinaga.
49/5Oct 18
Thursday
Markina to Gernika
25/917.6
758.6 to F
6:00440M ascent
and 515 M
descent
4/3 Route: Very mountainous stage with four climbs/descents. Initial gradual ascent out of Markina for 5km, then steep ascent to 370M over 2.5km and steep descent to 200M then a hill to 280M and gradual descent until the 20km point when there is a steep climb from 80M to 200M and very steep descent into Gernika from 200M to sea level in final 2.5km. Sites in Gernika: very historically significant; Picasso’s “Gernika” memorializes Franco’s fascist bombing/strafing of the village (by Germany). No old buildings left due to Franco obliterating village. Gernika Peace Museum is interesting.Alt Stage End at Eskerika: Can extend 9km to Eskerika and then get to Bilbao the next day.Services: Services in villages before Munitibar but little after Munitibar.Monastery of Zenurruza: located 6km past Markina in Ziortza dates back to 1082; 11 beds; beautiful cloister, porch, and altar.Lodging in Gernika: Pilgrim Hostel not open in October but Youth Hostel of Gernika is modern though large dormitories; Pension Akelarre is centrally located and has online booking for €36 single room.
50/6Oct 19Friday
Gernika to Bilbao
35.5/953.1
723.1 to F
5:15835M ascent
and 825M
descent (to
4/3 Route: Mountainous and slopes. Climb 300M first 5km. Nice views on approach to Bilbao. Climb out of Gernika to 290M over 3km and then small descent and hills climbing to 315M over next 10km then long descent from 315M to 80M at Larrabetzu and flat to Lezama at the 22nd KM point (where I might end the stage). From Lezema, 4km of flat past Zamudio than gradual climb to 370M over 4km and moderate descent to sea level in Bilbao over final 5km.
36
Bilbao) Water/Services: No services at all for first 16 km. Get water in Eskerika from house. No more water until Goikolexea.Good Food: Larrabetzu is a great place to eat at batzoki bar in town center or 3 Michelin star Azurmendi on outskirts of town at reasonable price.Alt End of Stage or Sites to Visit in Lezama (Gronze ends stage in Lezama): three famous towers—Basabil, Arechavaleta, and Lezama were of medieval military significance; Church of Santa Maria de Lezama is a nice rest stop.Lodging in Lezama: Hostel of Pilgrims located at B. Garaioltza, 133-E; donativo—modern but large dormitory rooms with bunk beds.Sites in Bilbao: Casco Viejo, the cathedral of Santiago, Basilica of Our Lady of Begona, Guggenheim Museum, etc.Consider Scenic Bilbao Variant through center of Bilbao (see Cicerone).Lodging in Bilbao: Pil Pil Hostel Bilbao has online booking and appears very nice in good location and cheap for single room. Bilbao is a large City and much of the central lodging is somewhat “industrial”-feeling.
51/7Oct 20
Saturday
Bilbao to Portugalete to Pobena (official
way)
22/975.1
701.1 to F
4:45 2/5 Metro to Portugalete or River Variant: Most urban stage of Del Norte largely crossing Bilbao metro area--consider taking the Metro (L2) from Bilbao to Portugalete—Metro is easy and the Camino route to Portugalete is somewhat difficult to follow and urban/industrial/uninteresting. Ciccerone recommends this and ends this stage in Pobena. There are two hills that climb up to 180M then descend back to near sea level and back up to 190M before moderate descent back to sea level over first 12km then quite flat final 7km into Portugalete. River Variant (Unmarked): There is a river variant along the right bank of Nervion estuary which is 7km shorter, is not well-marked, but is easy to follow to Portugalete if I don’t take the Metro. It is at sea level all the way.Water and Provisions in Portugalete: Last supermarket until Castro-Urdiales.Sites in Portugalete: Hanging Bridge of Portugalete of Puente de Vizcaya and also an interesting Old Town.Lodging in Pobena: Pobena Lodge is outside of Pobena if you want to avoid the city.
52/8 Portugalete or 17.5/992.6 7:00 3/4 NOTE on Route: Check current recommendations about which variant to
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Oct 21Sunday
Pobena to Castro Urdiales 683.6 to F
235M Ascent
and Descent
take. In Onton, decide whether to stay on Camino along the shoulder of N-634 national highway or take variant which adds 7.2 km to avoid the road. We enter Catabria today. Very gentle topography—gentle ascent to 120M out of Portugalete over 7km then gentle descent over next 6km into Pobena at sea level then flat to Onton followed by steep peak out of Onton to 180M over 2.5km and steep descent back to sea level over 2.5km into Miono and small hill to 80M in last 5km into Castro Urdiales.Sites in Castro Urdiales: Parish Church of Santa Maria de la Asuncion is one of finest Gothic churches with spectacular exterior and interior. Lodging in Castro Urdiales:
53/9Oct 22
Monday
Castro Urdiales to Laredo
30/1022.6
653.6 to F
6:30410M Ascent
and Descent
3/3 Route and Variant on Coast: Beautiful coastal stage with cliffs, beaches and coves. Alt route is much more scenic and avoids the highway (but longer)—again, have to choose to follow N-634 or variant. CHECK OUT UPDATED INFO ON THIS ROUTE. Very flat with rolling hills to 80M over first 13km to El Pontarron de Guriezo then moderate ascent to 180M over 3km followed by moderate descent to 30M in Hazas (Liendo) over 3km and final moderate ascent to 180M and final very steep 100M descent into Laredo.Laredo Sites: Cantabria’s biggest resort town. Important Roman site. Monestery of San Martin. Alternate Destination: Consider taking the ferry to Santona if I want an early start—first ferry in the morning is 9am. Santona has all facilities. Very old city. Large fort and Church of Nuestra Senora del Puerto. Lodging in Laredo:Lodging in Santona: This was my last “tendonitis rest stop” on my Camino, so I splurged and stayed 3 nights in the modern Hotel Juan de la Cosa which has an amazing location right on the remote Berria surfer beach, most rooms have tremendous beach views, it is on the Del Norte route, and there is bus/taxi service to/from Santona if needed. The Berria is Basque “surfer culture” at its best and is an unforgettable place to walk bare-foot while mesmerized by the perfect surfer-waves. Excellent dining (restaurant and bar food) plus awesome breakfast. Not cheap, but really a great break.
54/10 Laredo to 29.5/1052.1 7:15 2/4 Route: Beautiful stage crossing Playa de Berria and then Playa de
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Oct 23Tuesday
Guemes624.1 to F
280M ascent200M
descent
Trengandin. Second half of stage is on quiet country roads. Don’t take the inland variant—stay on the coast. Flat first 20km to San Miguel de Meruelo then small descent and a hill to 100M and gradual descent last 4km into Guemes.Boat from Laredo to Santona: Boat from Puntal de Laredo--take a boat to Santona—it leaves every 10-15 minutes for 2 Euros. But first boat is 9am so consider staying in Santona or on Berria beach.Sites in Santona: Santona-prison; Church of Santa Maria del Puerto and Church of Santa Maria de Bareyo.Lodging in Guemes: Book Ahead!!! Plan to reserve ahead to stay at Guemes Hostel (1km from the road by well-marked detour) hosted by Father Ernesto Bustio. Hostel in San Miguel de Meruelo is also very nice.
55/11Oct 24Wed
Guemes to Santander
17/1069.1(Cicerone says 17km for coastal
route)
607.1 to F
3:0080M
ascent and
160M descent
1/4 Alt Route—consider coastal variant that adds 3.6 km but has truly amazing coastal views and optional beach-walking…there are no Camino markings but it is an easy, intuitive route (really). Very flat stage with gradual descent from 80M in Guemes to sea level in Santander.Boat from Somo Pier to Santander: From Somo pier, take boat to Santander for 2.75 Euros-goes every 20-30 minutes. The Camino involves a long, nice beach walk to the end of the peninsula to the Pier—there are many services there and nice cafes while one waits for the boat.Services: Food in Galizano and Somo.Sites in Santander: Cathedral of Our Lady of the Asumption, the Magdalena Palace, the Sardinero beaches and casino; Museum of Prehistory and Archeology; Museo de Bella Artes; etc. A very interesting City to explore.Lodging in Santander: See note above about Booking.com—Santander is a very large City with many pension options that are quite reasonable as well as actual Albergues.
56/Rest Day
Oct 25Thursday
Rest Day in Santander or as needed during first 11 states of Del Norte
57/12 Santander to 32.5/1101.6 9:15 1/4 Route: Long stage with too much asphalt exiting Santander—long and
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Oct 26Friday
Santillana del Mar 574.6 to F
180M ascent
and 100M
descent
cumbersome. Very flat long stage—one very gradual hilly ascent to 90M and descent to Arce over first 17km then moderate climb to 100M over 2km about 3km past Arce and short, steep descent back to sea level and final gradual climb from Barreda at sea level to 120M over 5km with final descent into Santillana del Mar. Consider transport out of Santander to Boo to avoid asphalt and then either take the train from Boo to Mogro train station across the river or walk across the railroad bridge (if permitted—the police may fine bridge walkers). In 2016, an important change was made in the route—from Oruna, the official road now goes directly to Mar without going up to Mogro which considerably reduces the length of the stage so it is no longer necessary to cross the Pas River by the railway bridge to shorten the stage. Sites in Santilana del Mar: Very touristy but picturesque preserved medieval village of cut rock with restaurants; beautiful Romanesque Collegiate Church of Santa Juliana with extraordinary cloister. Famous Altamira Cave (UNESCO site) is nearby with paleolithic paintings. Note—need reservations for cave.Lodging in Santillana del Mar:
58/13Oct 27
Saturday
Santillana del Mar to
Comillas
23/1124.6
551.6 to F
5:30320M ascent380M
descent
3/2 Route: This is a placid/nice stage but there is a lot of asphalt, so take a break in San Martin de Ciguenza which is a pretty village with stunning Church and peaceful river; and in Cobreces--very colorful. Very rolling hills all the way never over 130M or below 50M.Sites in Comillas: Nice coastal town; Capricho de Gaudi was Marquis’s summerhouse—Marquis was Gaudi’s primary patron; Palacio de Sobrellano—neo-Gothic building; Alt End Point: can continue to San Vicente de la Barquera (33.6 km)Many services along the way.Lodging:
59/14Oct 28Sunday
Comillas to Colombres
28.5/1153.1
523.1 to F
7:00440M ascent345M
descent
3/2 Route/Services: San Vicente de la Barquera is beautiful. Serdio bar and restaurant near church has good menu. Rolling hills after initial climb out of Comillas to 100M then back to sea level and up to 80M and back to sea level at San Vincente de la Barquera then ascent to 120M over 8km to Serdio followed by steep descent to sea level until Unquera and final climb
40
into Colombres at 110M.Lodging in Colombres:
60/15Oct 29
Monday
Colombres to Llanes
23.5/1176.6
499.6 to F
5:45180M ascent285M
descent
2/4 Route & Services: Take coastal path-beautiful views all day but no services from Pendueles to Andrin so eat in Penduelas and/or get provisions. Very flat after initial descent to coast out of Colombres and flat for 12km to Adrin then small hill to 120M and descent to sea level in Llanes.Sites in Llanes: Hippest stop on Del Norte—enjoy! Church of Santa Maria del Concejo; medieval wall and tower; Lodging in Llanes:
61/16Oct 30
Tuesday
Llanes to Ribadesella
30/1206.6
469.6 to F
7:45150M ascent160M
descent
1/2 Route: Pretty flat first 8km then a few hills to 100M with one steep descent 100M just before Naves and then gradual ascent to 110M over next 10km and gradual descent and hills final 12 km. 400 metres after crossing estuary, the official road turns left on Dionisio Ruisanchez street but Gronze recommends continue straight to end of promenade and pick up Camino on the left;Alt End of Stage in Pineres de Pria: private and cozy hostel.Sites in Ribasdesella: Interesting fishing village; Must reserve ahead to tour Tito Bustillo Caves. Niembro is a large beach with some nudist areas.Lodging in Ribadesella:
62/17Oct 31Wed
Ribadesella to Sebrayo
31.5/1238.1
438.1 to F
5:15?420M ascent400M
descent
3/3 Alt End of Stage in Priesca: Likely will want to stop 3 km short in Priesca which has a beautiful hostel in a tiny village. Also can stop in Colunga which is the end of the Stage in Gronze. Flat first 4km then rolling hills to 100M for 10km to La Espasa and then flat for 5km to Colunga. Flat for 3km out of Colunga and then moderate ascent to 200M over 5km to Priesca (short descent into Priesca). 180M descent out of Priesca into Sebrayo at sea level.Berbes bar opens at 8am for pilgrim breakfasts.Services/Water—Stock-up in Colunga: there are no services in Sebrayo or Priesca, so stock-up in Colunga.Lodging in Priesca:Lodging in Sebrayo: Albergue de Peregrinos is a restored, historic rectory that is the only facility in town.
63/1 Sebrayo to 34/1272.1 6:45? 4/3 Route: Pretty flat from Sebrayo to Villaviciosa with one ascent to 80M and
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Stage 1 of Primitivo
Nov 1Thursday
Pola de Siero404.1 to F
550M ascent320M
descent
gradual descent back to sea level. Flat out of Villaviciosa for 4km then long, steep ascent to 400M over 5km followed by flat top for 2.5km and then steep descent to 300M and flat to moderate descent next 11km into Pola de Siero. Camino Primitivo Begins Today: 1km past Casquita is the split which is well-marked with a large stone listing both Caminos. Turn left at fork for Primitivo (towards Oviedo and Lugo).. Continue 2.7km through El Ronzon, Camoca, and San Pedro de Ambas where I join AS-267 and arrive at a rest area. Camino splits again here and the recommended route remains on AS-267 continuing downhill 2.9km into San Salvador de Valdedios. (Non-recommended high-level variant turns left off AS-267 towards Arbazal and then to Alto de la Campa where the two routes meet…the high-level route is 1.3km shorter but poor conditions and more ascent).Services/Water: Stock Up on provisions in Villaviciosa (5.9km): May not be any services today, so stock up on water and food in Villaviciosa (apple capital of Spain)—bar/restaurant by Valdedios may be open or not;Site exiting Villavicosa: visit church of San Juan de Amandi-one of the most important Asturian Romanesque churches; 1.5 km from Vilaviciosa.Route Variant: Consider taking variant of Valdedios and visit the beautiful monastic complex of San Salvador-better trail than other, too, and turn is well-marked;Alt Ends of Stage in Vega de Sariego or ValdediosLodging: Alt stopping point: can stay at simple hostel in Vega de Sariego (16km) and also may arrange to stay at Samaritan Carmelite hostel at Valdedios or the pilgrim hostel there; also Pola de Siero has magnificent hostel.
64/2Nov 2Friday
Pola de Siero to Oviedo
16.5/1288.6
387.6 to F
4:1580M
Ascent100M
descent
1/4 Route: A lot of flat asphalt all the way and urban areas as I enter Oviedo. POSSIBLY SKIP THIS STAGE WITH TRANSPORT TO OVIEDO IF I NEED TO PICK UP A DAY.Sites in Oviedo: Tourist Office at Plaza del Fontan at Plaza de Constitucion 4—get current City street plan to assist my exit from town as the Yellow Arrows can be confusing. Cathedral of San Salvador is stunning—Oviedo was capital of Christian Spain from around 900AD—Cathedral expanded over 8 centuries and contains interesting relics (Mary’s Milk, one of Judas’s
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pieces of silver, etc.); three UNESCO recognized pre-Romanesque churches: San Julian de los Prados is largest and most central (other two are 3km from city center but worth seeing—take A2 Bus from Calle Uria to Naranco and A1 bus back….Santa Maria de Naranco is perfectly preserved while San Miguel de Lilo is only 1/3 presrved but reflects Visigothic influence; and Old Town of Oviedo is nice; wonderful town to visit; Local Food in Oviedo: great tapas bars on Gascona Street and adjoining streets; low alcohol apple cider is the local drink; Great local cheeses: Cabrales, Gamoneu, Afuega’l Pitu and Casin;Lodging in Oviedo: See note about Booking.com
65/Rest Day
Nov 3Saturday
Rest Day in Oviedo
This could also be a pickup day if I took transport into OviedoBook air from Santiago to CDG or other return transport if have not already done so.
66/3Nov 4
Sunday
Oviedo to Grado or to San Juan de Villapanada
29.5/1318.1
358.1 to F
6:15360M ascent300M
descent
3/2 Route: Leaving Oviedo: Follow bronze scallops out of Oviedo from Cathedral. Flat out of Oviedo for 6km then hilly descent from 250M to 100M over 5km followed by steep climb to 280M at Escamplero. After 1km on flat top, moderate descent from 280M to 90M over 4km and then one small climb/descent and flat final 7km into Grado.Sites on the Route:
San Lazaro de Paniceres: ruins of pilgim hospital dated to 12th C Lampaxuga: 1km past is a shaded picnic area with pool for soaking
feetAlt Stopping Points: Can stay at Escamplero hostel to shorten route to only 12km if I visit Oviedo in the morning before leaving or can shorten 4.3km by staying in Grado. Going all the way to San Juan de Vilapanada breaks up a big climb. Services: Stock-up in Oviedo & Grado: Nothing may be open until Penaflor (20km). No food/meals at Albergue in San Juan de Villapanada so stock-up in Grado if going on.Lodging in Grado: Grado: new, very nice hostel opened in 2016Food in Grado is major town on this Stage and good place for meal/provisions or to stay: produces Afuega’l’Pitu cheese; bread is special
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as are the sweets tocinillos de Grado from Tejeiro bakery; markets on Wednesday and Sunday; supermarkets closed on Mondays.
67/4Nov 5
Monday
Grado or San Juan de
Villapanada to Bodenaya
24.5/1342.6
333.6 to F
5:30660M ascent340M
descent
4/2 Route: Exiting Grado crosses entire town until 120 metres after gas station, past bend to right, we turn left and then right. Steep ascent out of Grado from 80M to 380M over 5km then steep descent from 380M to 75M at Cornellana over 5km. Gradual ascent from Cornellana at 80M to Salas at 280M over 11KM with one hill just out of Cornellana up to 180M and back down to 100M. Long, steep climb out of Salas (240M) to Bodenaya (700M).Visit (or Stay at) Cornellana monastery of San Salvador which welcomes pilgrims in its Albergue—monastery founded in 1024 but was stripped of holdings in 1835—Romanesque church still preserves 12th century interior; Lodging in Bodenaya: Albergue de Bodenaya is an amazing “must stay/must experience” place.Cornellana has services/food: buns with chorizo; Casino pastry shop has Asturian sweets and empanadas (apple or octopus); Salmon is a local specialty in restaurants.
68/5Nov 6
Tuesday
Bodenaya to Campiello
24.5/1367.1
309.1 to F
5:00320M ascent310M
descent
3/2 Route/Services: Only services are in La Espina. Flat with slight ascent from Bodenaya to Tineo for 15km then long gradual ascent out of Tineo (650M) to peak at 900M over 5km followed by long, steep descent from 900M to 640M over 4km and then moderate hills into Campiello final 5km. Mud between La Espina & Tineo can be bad, so consider road route if muddy.Tineo Monastery: Can take 1km round-trip detour to visit the Santa Maria de Obona Monastery when leaving Tineo.Tineo Sites: Well-preserved Palacio de Meras (Asturian Renaissance architecture) and the Palacio de los Garcia de Tineo). Route: take well-marked detour to hostel on left rather than going straight on the road. Exit from town is tricky-after the last bar, take path in bad condition on the right and leave the road. Stew is local dish in Tineo-Fabada is well-known stew. Sausages are a local delicacy: tsinguaniza, andoyas, butietso and chosco are best known.Lodging in Campiello: Albergue Privado Casa Herminia is well known for excellent service, nice menu, and large cafes con leche!
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69/6Nov 7Wed
Campiello to Berducedo
By Hospitals or by Polla de
Allende (if bad weather)
27/1394.1
282.1 to F
?990M ascent800M
descent
5/2 Services/Water: Stock up in Campiello or before as no services on this stage. Fill water bladder in Campiello. Avoid this route if foggy, rainy or windy—alt route via Polo is longer and hilly but more protected and there are services—it is also a nice route but Hospitals route is one of the most beautiful on any Camino.Route: Hospitals route is a very long day—start early and rest often. Flat from Campiello to Borres first 5km. Major climb out of Borres (650) to 1,200M over 8km then fairly flat on top for 7km through Puerto de la Marta and Puerto del Palo followed by steep descent from Puerto del Palo from 1,125M to 900M at Montefurado in 2km then 100M ascent followed by 200M descent into Lago and flat final 3km into Berducedo. Hospitales route is recommended for scenery but must take lower Pola route if fog/weather is too bad. Split is 1 km past Borres. Turn right at fork and proceed 2.7km into mountains to a fountain which is LAST WATER FOR 16.5KM. Pass three ruined old hospitals. Routes rejoin at Montefurado. First of the three stages that define the character and essence of the Primitive Way, for its ecological wealth, fauna and flora, for its hardness and its landscapes. The monastery of Obona is 800 meters out of the way, by a signposted detour: it is in a state of neglect. In Campiello there are a couple of shops-bar-restaurant. In Borres we find El Barín bar that is open at 0600 and has keys to the Albergue de Peregrinos nearby (which historically was quite dirty).Local Food: The stage runs through an area with high quality meats. Especially the veal and the pitu caleya , or village chicken. In addition, for dessert, rice with milk, custard or frijolitas stuffed with honey and cream, similar to Galician pancakes or French crêpes .Lodging: Berducedo has bar/grocery, restaurant, Albergue and private Albergue. Note 2018: In La Mesa has opened a private hostel with bar-restaurant.
70/7Nov 8
Thursday
Berducedo to Grandas de
Salime
20/1414.1
262.1 to F
5:00650M ascent820M
5/1 Route: Beautiful stage but prepare knees/toes for steep descent into Grandas reservoir—descend 820M in 8km. Two small ascents out of Berducedo first from 900M to 1,000M and then gradual descent for 3km into La Mesa at 880M followed by moderate ascent to 1,050 in 2km and
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descent then knee-crushing descent from 1,050 to 200M at Presa del embalse de Salime over 8km. This is followed by a hilly ascent from 200M back to 650M at Grandas de Salime over final 7.5km. Whew!Services—Stock-up in Berducedo: Stock up on Food/Water in Berducedo as few services on this stage. The only intermediate service of the stage is 800 meters after crossing the reservoir dam: Las Grandas hotel has a very nice bar with light food. Alternate Stopping Point in Castro: Option to extend the stage 5.1 km to the good youth hostel of Castro.Sites and Food in Grandas de Salime: The dam and related infrastructure left over from its construction provide an interesting break followed by a nice rest stop in the Las Grandas hotel. The Ethnographic Museum deserves a visit, one of the most important in Asturias. In Grandas de Salime, and in other nearby towns, Oscos cheese is produced , made from cow's milk. In addition, we can find other traditional products such as chorizo and lacón. Butcher shop Carnicería Naveiras is good. Casariego bakery has local mantedas de Grandas and other traditional sweets.Lodging in Grandas de Salime:
71/8Nov 9Friday
Grandas de Salime to
Padron or A Fonsagrada
(1.6km before Padron)
26.5/1440.6
235.6 to F
6:45520M ascent260M
descent
3/2 Route: The day is marked by the long, but smooth and progressive rise to Alto del Acebo, a mountain range that separates the regions of Asturias and Galicia. Very long, gradual ascent out of Grandas de Salime (550M) to Castro (650) over 5km and then Penafuente (850M) over next 4.5km and then a peak at 1,100 over next 4km followed by long, gradual descent from 1,100 to 850M over 10km and final climb back to A Fonsagrada (950M) over final 2.5km.Confirm Status of Albergue in Padron and Fonsagrada: Check to make sure Albergue in Padron is still open—Fonsagrada (1.6km before Padron) appears to have new Albergue and other options so may be a better stop. Very Important Route Signage Change--Scallop Meaning Changes: The indicative meaning of the scallop in the cairns changes when entering Galicia. In Asturias, the “closed end” of the scallop symbol indicates the direction forward. In Galicia, the exact opposite is true and the “open end” of the scallop (the “rays” or “fingers”) indicates the direction forward.
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Barbeitos: Bar and restaurant is good--Mesón Catro Ventos , with traditional Galician cuisine. Local Food: A sausage similar to the botillo leonés, made with pork and paprika and with a smoking process. It is served with grelos, potatoes and legumes. One of the most special meats we can find in the area is the porc celta , a variety of pork that is recovering. The chorizos made with their meat stand out. We can buy empanadas to take in the Fonsagrada Bakery , where they also make the local almond and cream cake.Lodging in A Fonsagrada (per Gronze): In August 2017, the Xunta inaugurated a magnificent hostel for pilgrims in the old town, in the historic Casa Pasarín building (19th century). The other hostel of the Xunta del Concello , located in the small village of Padrón, closed in September 2017.
72/9Nov 10
Saturday
A Fonsagrada/Padron
to Cadavo Baleira
(O Cadavo)
22.5/1463.1
213.1 to F
6:00450M ascent580M
descent
4/2 Route: This first fully Galician day is on small roads and footpaths. This is the end of higher elevation walking—slopes are continuous but moderate. Descent from A Fonsagrada from 950M to 875M then hilly, gradual ascent to 1,050 over 7km which is 1.5km past Montouto. Then very steep descent from 1,050 to 700M over 4km to Paradavella. Small hill out of Paradavella and then very steep climb to A Lastra of 150M in 1km and another very steep climb out of A Lastra from 800M to 950M over 2km and than moderate descent from 950M to O Cadavo at 725M over final 6.5km. Sites in Montouto: aged village seemingly carved from stone. See the ruins of the Hospital de Montouto, founded in the fourteenth century to provide shelter and assistance to pilgrims.Services: The first bar/store of the stage is very pilgrim-friendly in the town of Paradavella, just at the end of the descent. Further on there are also bars (not restaurants), a very small one in A Lastra and a larger one in Fontaneira. O Cádavo has all the services.Cádavo Baleira Food: It has services and some restaurants, such as the La Moneda hotel (with a good menu), with traditional food and Galician rations such as butelo and octopus.Alternative Extention to Castro-verde (adds 8.8km): new/modern Albergue, grocery, and bars there and it shortens the walk into Lugo the next day.
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Lodging in Cadavo Baleira: Albergue de Peregrinos & Hotel Moneda.73/10
Nov 11Sunday
Cadavo Baleira (O Cadavo) to
Lugo
30.5/1493.6
182.6 to F
7:15310M ascent620M
descent
3/2 Route: Long stage, brief ascent out of Cadavo from 725M to 850M than moderately steep descent to Castroverde at 600M over 4.5km. Moderate and hilly descent all the way from Castroverde at 600M to Lugo at 475M over 17km with one dip and climb into Lugo at the end.Services: Stock up on water/food in Cadavo Beleira—few services today. Lugo Sites: Possible Rest Day in Lugo. Some of the best sights of the Primitivo—Lugo’s massive walls around historic center are 2,000 years old. Celtic origin and important Roman city followed by Visigoths and Moors. UNESCO WHS—world’s largest surviving Roman walls—you can walk around the top of them. Cathedral of Santa Maria combines Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque, Rococo, and Neo-classical styles…basically a history of religious architecture in one structure. 2nd Century Roman Baths are still open as a luxury spa! Convento de San Francisco has a Gothic cloister and is now a museum.Food in Lugo: The Galician stews are specialty--plenty of pork. Local sausage served with grelos, vegetables and legumes is another specialty. Tapas is excellent in the bars near the Praza do Campo and the Campo Castelo area.Lodging in Lugo: Albergue de Peregrinos and others. Consider a final Rest Day in Lugo to enjoy the sights and the peace of the Primitivo…only 100km to go.
74/11Nov 12
Monday
Lugo to As Seixas
31.5/1525.1
151.1 to F
6:30450M ascent310M
descent
2/2 Route: Begin the final 100km to Santiago today! Peaceful and flat with few towns. 100M descent out of Lugo and then long, gradual ascent from 380M to 500M at San Vicente do Burgo and moderate hills the remaining 22km through Ferreira and to As Seixas.Services/Sites: San Vicente do Burgo (4.7km) is a bar with fantastic bocadillos (100 M off route). San Roman da Retorta (18km futher) has bar, grocery, Albergues and the 12th century Romanesque Inglesia de Santa Cruz da Retorta. The Meson de Crecenta before San Roman da Retorta has traditioinal Glaician food and good stewed meat dishes. Ferreira (5.8k before As Seixas): has three Albergues with meals.Lodging in As Seixas: As Seixas has new Albergue de Peregrinos with great
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hospitality and food truck stops each night plus there is a restaurant. 75/12
Nov 13Tuesday
As Seixas to Arzua
28.0/1553.1
123.1 to F
5:00290M ascent480M
descent
3/1 Route: Nice paths through eucalyptus groves with several interesting villages to admire. Join Camino Frances today! 100M gradual climb out of As Seixas to 700M followed by long, moderate descent for 6km to 450M and flat final 5km into Melide. Gentle hills out of Milde for 6km to Boente and then two bigger hills in last 8km into Arzua—last descent before Arzua is 100M and then climb final 75M into Arzua.Services: Numerous small bars/shops. Definitely plan to stop in Melide (14.8 km) for Great Galician Food (Arzua-Ulloa cheese and octopus)--also a great place to stay. Best places for octopus are the grocery stores Pulperia Ezequiel and A Garnacha , each of which has staunch devotees. Also has great sweets—glazed donuts and butter cookies.Alt Stop in Ridadisso: Ribadisso do Baixo has a traditional Albergue on the river and is much more quiet than Arzua.Arzua: Arzua is on the Camino Frances so get ready for culture shock—500 pilgims rather than 50. Decide if I want one more day on the peaceful Primitivo in Melide or Ridadisso or if I want to begin the Frances in bustling Arzua.Lodging in Melide: Albergue de PeregrinosLodging in Ribadisso: Albergue de Peregrinos in beautiful location on river.Lodging in Arzua: Many, many options but Albergue is pretty tired and full.
76/1Camino FrancesNov 14
Wed
Arzua to Santiago de Compostela
39/1592.1
Two Million Steps!
84.1 to F
290M ascent450M
descent
2/1 Route: Comfortable stage on long forest tracks and meadows. Very mild hills all the way so upping your kilometers is very doable if you are otherwise healthy at this point.Alt Stop in O Pedouzo: Can break up final stage by staying in O Pedrouzo which is close enough (20km) to arrive at the Pilgrim’s Mass at noon in the Cathedral at Santiago de Compostela if you start early. Lodging in Pedrouzo: Albergue de Peregrinos
77Nov 15
Thursday
Santiago de Compostela &
Rest Day
Lodging in Santiago de Compostela: Once you are comfortable with your final stage schedule, it is a good idea to book ahead in Santiago. The main lodge, the oldest and the one with the greatest capacity, is the Minor Seminary hostel, privately run. It is about 15 minutes walk from the cathedral. In recent years the supply of shelters in the Galician capital has
49
grown strongly. All hostels permit a stay of more than one night. Many choices are available for online booking.Compostela Process in Santiago de Compostela: In the Pilgrim's Welcome Office (Rúa Carretas, 33), near the cathedral, Pilgrims will be issued the Compostela once the officials verify through a review of the stamps in the Credential, that we have made the last hundred kilometers on foot. If you have more than one Credential, be sure to bring both of them as the Compostela lists which routes your took and your starting point. I had already mailed my Via Podiensis Credential home but the officials were kind to me and believed that I started in Le Puy. The first 10+ or so Pilgrims each morning are given a voucher for a nice free lunch at a restaurant.Sites in Santiago de Compostela: The Historic District is one of the best preserved in Europe. The Cathedral is amazing but there is so much more to see in the historic district. Be sure to check on schedules for masses and which doors are open during construction.Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela: Pilgrim traditions include: 1) attend the Pilgrim's Mass at 12 noon; 2) place hand at the base of the mullion of the Portico de la Gloria, in the cavity carved for that purpose, as a symbolic union between the pilgrims of all times (this rite seems to have been prohibited); 3) to embrace the image of the Apostle in the High Altar (from 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and from 4:00 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.); 4) behind the mullion, hit three times with the head (gently) the statue that represents the teacher Mateo (author of the Portico de la Gloria), in order to increase one’s intelligence; and, finally, 5) go down to the crypt where the Apostle's tomb is guarded (from 7:00 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.). The Botafumeiro , a large mobile censer located in front of the High Altar, is part of the liturgy and is a sight worth admiring. It works every day in Holy Year, and in solemn Masses or when some group or individual requests (paying) in the normal years. Squares Outside Cathedral: The place to hangout and to run into many Pilgrims you met earlier on your Camino is in the squares around the Cathedral. Many sit on the large cobblestone areas and admire the Cathedral, wait for the sun to provide a “perfect picture” of the Cathedral, and to connect with other Pilgrims.
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Food in Santiago de Compostela: There are many pilgrims who celebrate their arrival at the Obradoiro with a seafood platter. Restaurants near the Cathedral are good but expensive: Terra Nosa , San Clemente and Mariscos Fornos. Take advantage of mid-afternoon or before dinner to have a drink, because in Santiago it is still customary to serve a free tapa for each drink. Around the Plaza del Obradoiro, and on the Rúa do Franco, on Raiña and do Vilar, you will find the best-known establishments. The most famous sweet of the Camino de Santiago is the Tarta de Santiago . It is made with eggs and almond flour and served in all restaurants as a dessert. Also, you can purchase them from Casa Mora , Confitería las Colonias , or in Delicatessen as Monxas .Market: The second most visited place in Santiago de Compostela, behind the cathedral, is the Mercado de Abastos, in the Casco Antiguo, with a wide range of fresh and handcrafted products.
78/1Stage 1 of
Camino Finnesterre
Nov 16Friday
Santiago de Compostela
ToNegreira
20.5/1612.6
63.6 to F
5:15435M ascent525M
descent
4/2 Route—can begin after Pilgrim Mass: Numerous pilgrims begin this stage after the Pilgrim's Mass, and even after lunch in Santiago de Compostela. Short and pleasant stage, with the 210 M ascent over 2 km to the Alto do Mar de Ovellas as the only remarkable obstacle followed by gradual descent for final 7km into Negreira. Services/Sites on Route: In Sarela de Baixo (2.6km), look back for a beautiful view of the three towers of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Ventosa (8.7km beyond Sarela de Baixo) is a good first stop (new bar with good food), then Ponte Maceira (8km beyond Ventosa) which is beautiful medieval town with a 5-arch bridge over a river.Sites/Food in Negreira: Its most important monument is the fortified medieval building of Pazo do Cotón. Negreira has excellent restaurants where Pilgrims continue tasting the rations and Galician products, such as Casa Barqueiro and Mesón Os Arcos. Water and Supplies—Stock-up in Negreira: Stock Up on Food/Water for long walk tomorrow to Olveiroa.Lodging in Negreira: Albergue de Peregrinos and others.
79/2Nov 17
Negreira to Olveiroa
32.6/1645.2 8:15490M
3/1 Route: Beautiful and generally smooth stage with small Galacian villages. Long, gradual climb out of Negreira from 170M to 400M over 10km
51
Saturday 31 to F ascent375M
descent
followed by descent to Vilaserio (325M) and mild hills next 8km to Santa Mariña followed by 90M ascent to Monte Aro. In the subsequent descent to Olveiroa (290M) over 7km we enjoy wonderful views over the Xallas valley and the Fervenza reservoir.Gronze Note 2017 re climbing Monte Aro: The City Council enabled a path signposted by the forest from Gueima - Castro to A Picota (~ 5.6 km) and a return to the road from A Picota to Ponte Olveira (~ 3.6 km); avoid the asphalt and climb to the highest point of Monte Aro, with spectacular views. Services: The first bar of the stage is 8.4 km away, in A Pena, 200 meters off the road (well signposted detour). Bars are also found in Vilaserío, Santa Mariña (also a good bakery with empanadas), Ponte Olveira (in the hostel) and Olveiroa. In Cornado there is a fountain.Olveiroa: Good food at Pensión as Pías or Casa Loncho . Stock up on water and food for the next day.Lodging in Olveiroa: Several options.
80/3Nov 18Sunday
Olveiroa to Finisterre or can stop at
Corcubion or other stops
31/1676.2
The Omega is the Alpha—The End is
the Beginning
5:30350M ascent620M
descent
3/2 Route: Rolling hills for 17km and then descent from 300M to sea level in 2.5km into Cee and on to Corcubien. Small climb to 100M after Corcubion and descent back to sea level at Sardineiro and flat to Fisterra and climb to 125M at Cabo Fisterra. Omega & Alpha: The end is the beginning!!!Services (Stock up on Water and Food for the Day): In Hospital (5.4km) there is a bar with excellent bocadillos and water and this is a good stop because there is 14.6 km of solitude until Cee—a peaceful walk as one contemplates the geographic end of The Way.Sites: The Marco do Couto Cruceiro, the hermitage of Nosa Señora das Neves, the Chapel of San Pedro Mártir, the city of Cee (church of Santa María de Xunqueira), and, finally, the City of Corcubión (Church of San Marcos and Casco Antiguo).Cee: Good spot for a break in a modern beach town after descending to the coast. Plentiful food options—best are along the first stretch and then again in the City center….fewer options as you exit this sprawling town.
52
Corcubión (1.8k after Cee): Peixería Mar Viva restaurant is excellent. This is an alternative stopping point with excellent accomodations and restaurants.Fisterre: Fisterre has many restaurants/bars, markets, and accommodation options. The highlight is walking 3km to the lighthouse and cliffs for view of sunset, to reflect on Camino, and to share with other pilgrims. For centuries, Fisterre was believed to truly be the “end of land”. Be sure to take a flashlight/headlamp for the return trip.Obtain Certificate of Pilgrimage to Finisterre at municipal Albergue de Peregrinos. Lodging: Many options in town and the upscale/expensive Hotel O Semaforo is right on the point. All the action is in town, or on the beaches, other than sitting on the point to watch the sun set.
81Nov 19
Monday
Bus to Santiago & Fly to Paris
Bus from Finisterre to Santiago (3 hours): Stop is around corner from municipal albergue. Departs 5X daily (8:20am to 7pm) but fewer on weekends with earliest 11:45am. The bus ride is very scenic along the coast most of the way.
82Nov 20
Tuesday
CDG to MSP Flight: DL 141 departs CDG 10:05 am arrives MSP 12:45PM
53
GR651 : la Voie / Route du Célé
54
Place Distancekm Cumulative
kmDénivelées
metresAccommodation
Figeac 630m 0.0 0.0 CH/GdE «Le Chemin des Anges» DP 30 allées Victor Hugo, 46100 Figeac Lydie et Pierre Guérinot
[pèlerins]06 10.30.55.90 et 06 07.12.35.63
<[email protected]>€65+€16=DP€81, PN€8
1 Faycelles 330mbar/restaurant/depôt de pain/epicerie et CH «La Petit’ Pause»
9.4 9.420070
CH «La Caselle d’hôtes»la Croix Blanche 46100 Faycelles
Carloine Weidmann06 xx.xx.xx.xx et 05 65.34.05.68
<[email protected]>€40+€13=DP€53, PN=€8
2a Béduer 285mbar/restaurant/ depôt de pain/épicerie «La Taverne» + CH «La Mythie», CH «La Daynacquière» et Camping de «Pech Ibert»
4.1 13.52570
CH/GdE «Le Bédigas»lieu-dit les Bédigas 46100 Béduer Nadia Naegelen et Philippe Sandre 06 74.46.17.17 et 05 65.33.49.85
<[email protected]>€23/55+€17=DP€40/72, PN=€, piscine
2b Camboulit 192mwell-reviewed, expensive … but get what you pay for!
-- -- --
CH «Domaine La Belle Époque» le Coustal 46100 Camboulit
Jonahel Gharbi et Jimmy06 52.52.39.67 et 05 65.40.04.42
<[email protected]>€76+€20=DP€96, tarif pèlerin?, piscine
3 Boussac 178m 5.1 18.6 --
CH «Mas del Lum» Domaine Villedieu 46100 Boussac
Yolanta et xxx Skura06 89.19.90.02 et 05 65.40.06.63
4 Corn 180msalon de thé/restaurant/saladérie«l’Antiquit’thé» at village entrance,«Auberge Laparrot» restaurant at top of the village
2.4 21.016120
CH/GdE «La Maison de Cécile» DPLaparrot 46100 Corn
Sylvie Chiminello06 79.42.77.36 et 05 65.40.01.24<[email protected]>
€27+€12=DP€39, PN€6
5 Sainte-Eulalie 172mwell-reviewed chambre-d’hôte-style accommodation with new owners
3.8 25.0 --
CH «Les Ânons du Célé» DPSainte-Eulalie 46320 Espagnac-Sainte-Eulalie
Enza Trenatdue et Paul Pezone06 xx.xx.xx.xx et 05 65.50.26.57
<[email protected]>€45/50+€23=DP€68/73, PN€10
6 Espagnac 169mevening meals at gîte communal supplied by «Auberge Laparrot» at Corn??
3.0 28.07590
GdE communal «Val Paradis Espagnac» le bourg 46320 Espagnac-Sainte-Eulalie
06 xx.xx.xx.xx et 05 65.11.42.66<[email protected] >
€19+€15=DP€34, repas sur résa
7 Brengues 185 / 170m«Côté Falaise» en bas du village offers rooms and also functions as boulangerie/épicerie with adjacent café, bar–restaurant and outdoor eating area
4.7 33.0172148
GdE/CH «La Brenguoise» le bourg 46320 Brengues
Claude Lecomte06 30.20.68.06 et 09 63.26.31.46
<[email protected]>€27+€18=DP€45, PN€7
8a Saint-Sulpice 190mbar/restaurant «Le Saint Sulpice» in the village proper?? + épicerie/depôt de pain/snack-bar at campground by the river
5.0 38.0138139
épicerie/depôt de pain/snack-bar at «Camping du Célé» campground down by the river
[until 30 septembre]
8b Cazals 285m
CH «Ferme de Cazals» DProute de Pailhès 46160 Marcilhac-sur-Célé
Fabienne et Jean-Michel Bos06 xx.xx.xx.xx et 05 65.50. 07.89
<[email protected]>€44+€22=DP€66, PN€10
55
9 Marcilhac-sur-Céle 155mbar/tabac/épicerie, several seasonal restaurants in village centre + boulangerie«la Fournil du Célé» by the river; option here to hire kayak and paddle to Cabrerets
7.6 45.6152190
GdE/CH «La Galance»chemin de Pailhès 46160 Marcilhac-sur-
Célé Véronique et Jean Jourdan06 15.94.91.97 et 05 65.34.23.97
<[email protected]>€25/31+€15=DP€40/46, PN€7
10 Le Picarel 240m 2.4 48.010517
CH «Le Picarel» DPMas de Picarel 46160 Marcilhac-sur-Célé
Linda et Ian Thomas06 xx.xx.xx.xx et 05 65.34.47.13<[email protected]>€45/48+€25=DP€70/73, PN€8
11 Sauliac-sur-Céle 155mconsider also : CH «Château de Geniès», new GdE/CH «O Cœur des sens» et «Aux Lodges du Mas de Nadal» well-reviewed campsite with lodges, bistrot and pool …
7.0 55.0175255
CH «l’Autre Chemin» DPLes Fargues 46330 Sauliac-sur-Célé
Alain Marsal et Phillippe06 87.14.96.28 et 05 65.31.91.64
<[email protected]>€57+€21=DP€78, PN€xx
12a Le Bout du Lieu 150m 9.5 64.5215237
CH «Jardin dans la Falaise» DP Le Bout de Lieu, 46330
Cabrerets Cathy Boloeil et David Angeles
07 83.57.01.23 et 05 65.30.85.35<[email protected]>
€60/75+€25=DP€100
12b Cabrerets 145mnumerous accommodation and watering / refuelling options here; recommended eating at «La Roue» …
1.0 65.51015
CTH «l’Auberge de la Sagne» DP route grotte de pech merle 46330 Cabrerets Angélique Chevalier et Frédéric Labrousse
06 22.20.06.05 et 05 65.31.26.62<[email protected]>
€65/75+€25=DP€90/100
13 Grotte du Pech Merle290m
1.0 76.51430
14 Conduché / Chemin de halage 128mwell-reviewed bar/restaurant with terrace dining «les Deux Vallées» at Conduché in the old railway station building
5.7 82.253212
don’t miss the opportunity to cross the River Lot via the old / disused box girder railway bridge =
incontournable
15 Saint-Cirq-Lapopie 221m 3.3 85.512330
H-R «l’Auberge du Sombral» DPPlace du Sombral 46330 Saint-Cirq-Lapopie
Marion Hardeveld et Benoît06 xx.xx.xx.xx et 05 65.31.26.08<[email protected]>
€69/89+€27=DP€96/116
16 Bouziès xxxmalso CH «Le Rucher de Pech Larive»+bar/café/restaurant «les Falaises» et boulangerie??
4.5 90.096175
CH «l’Oustalou» DPle village 46330 Bouziès
Yvette et Georges Marmiesse06 84.33.75.01 et 05 65.31.25.70
<[email protected]> BB€50, DP=non, PN=non?
17 Pasturat 12.0 102.0274245
GdE/CH «Le Relais de Pasturat» DP54 route du Travers Rouge 46090 Pasturat
Anne-Marie et Jacques Charazac06 13.46.46.85 et 05 65.31.44.94<[email protected]>€22/45+€16=DP€38/61, PN€7
18 Béars / Vers 5.5 107.5155189
CH «Les Rives d’Olt» DP13 Impasse de l’écluse 46090 Béars Evelyne Muller et Philippe Andlauer 06 74.42.12.13 et 05 65.30.18.62
<[email protected]>€52/67+€15/23=DP€67/90, PN€9
56
18a Vers 1.0 108.5424
H–R/GdE «La Truite Dorée» DP rue de la Barre 46090 Vers
Evelyne et Patrick Marcenac06 82.33.15.30 et 05 65.31.46.13
<[email protected]>€44+€20=DP€64 [gîte], pool
57
19 Galessie Bas / Arcambal 6.1 114.6166200
20 Lot River path / Château Sainte-Ambroise 5.9 120.5
4750
21 Lot River path / Cahorsnumerous well-reviewed and recommended accommodation options … take your pick!!
4.0 124.54034
CH «Chez Pierre»62, rue Etienne Brives 46000 Cahors
Pierre Capredon06 09.96.28.32
<[email protected]> BB=€30/35, DP=non
R58