8035668 cast thermite

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Cast-Thermite/

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Cast Thermiteby Zlwillyon February 15, 2008

Table of Contents

License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa) .............................................................................

Intro: Cast Thermite ...........................................................................................................

step 1: Obtain the Materials .....................................................................................................

step 2: Refining ..............................................................................................................

step 3: Refining Part 2 .........................................................................................................

step 4: Mixing ...............................................................................................................

step 5: Just add water! .........................................................................................................

step 6: Casting ..............................................................................................................

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License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa)

Intro: Cast ThermiteThere are plenty of Instructables and other how-to's on making Thermite, the incendiary mixture that can not only raise, but also burn, eyebrows. (The concept for thisInstructable came from 'the Anarchists Cookbook', and since it doesn't give many details...here's how I do it.) Now, there's nothing wrong with powdered forms ofThermite, that's how I got started a few years back, but sometimes you just want something rock solid that burns nice and bright/hot.

That's where Cast Thermite comes in. And the best part is, If you have some thermite on hand already, it's pretty easy to make! If you don't, never fear, for I will bestarting at the beginning with nothing but the raw materials.

Image Notes1. There's our finished project!

step 1:Obtain the MaterialsSo you made it through the intro? Good. There's something that must be said before we go any further. I'm not liable. For anything. Do your homework and be sure yoknow what safety precautions to take when handling something like thermite, such as not looking at it during ignition since it gives off harmful ultraviolet light! Be smartreat this stuff with the respect it deserves. It's not flash powder but it's certainly not sugar either. ;-)

Now that that's out of the way, onto the fun part. The preparations!

The first thing to do is understand what thermite is made up of. Most commonly, homemade thermite is made up of iron oxide (rust) and granule or powered aluminumWhen mixed together, these two metals create an incendiary capable of reaching temperatures of several thousand degrees. For more info check thermite's Wiki page

So:

What we need:

Fine (0000) Steel Wool (not pictured)AluminumSome kind of scalePlaster of ParisHandling materials (spoon, cup, paper, coffee can...)Some kind of mold to cast your thermite in

While I'm at it, I'll explain the best way to get a hold of the materials.

Steel Wool

Off to the hardware store! Honestly though, I buy my steel wool at Walmart unless I can find bulk fine grade steel wool at our nearby Harbor Freight .

Aluminum

Well, you could always go online and purchase some high grade Aluminum powder like I did. Before I thought to do that, I just ground strips of aluminum foil in a cheacoffee grinder. IMHO, the larger grains made from the coffee grinder method make for brighter and more enjoyable light shows.

Scale/Plaster of Paris

Ever heard of Michaels? It's a nice l ittle place a lot like Hobby Lobby. Plaster of Paris and the scale can be bought at either of these places, and probably at Walmart awell.

The Mold
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermitehttp://www.textfiles.com/humor/thermite.anahttp://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.5/

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Use anything you want to, whatever suits your fancy. I use a small ice cube tray. Film canisters would probably work fairly well, as would larger tupperware containersreally big batches. Whatever floats your boat.

Finally, you say. I've got everything you told me to get. Let's get started!

Image Notes1. Alcoholic beverages and family games, like batteries, are not included.

2. This is what the steel wool will look like after it has been refined into the iron oxide grains that we need.3. The aluminum I purchased on the internet is in this bag.

step 2:RefiningTime to start refining our materials.

Steel WoolYou didbuy the right kind of steel wool, right? The best kind is usually labeled as "0000" which is the finest grade I've ever found. This stuff burns the easieand is usually less wasteful than the heavier grade steel wool.

Take the steel wool out of i t's packaging and place it in a container suitable for oxidizing substances...(burning things.) Pull them apart a little bit before you put them inthe container. Don't worry about packing it full. As it burns you will be able to crunch it down and add more on top. After lighting it, (a regular match works fine), you'llhave to move some air through it to make sure the fire spreads. If you're only doing this much, just blowing on it should be sufficient.

Once it has burned and cooled off, rub the tougher chunks and strands of steel wool along something with small holes to make sure the pieces you collect are fairly smIt also helps keep out the excess pieces that wouldn't burn so you can re-burn them or use them in your next batch.

I rub the burnt steel wool over an old window screen that I cut out and wrapped in duct tape. In doing this I end up with a much finer product.

Image Notes1. Did you know you can buy a pack of 300 matchbooks very cheap at yourlocal convenience store?2. Super fine steel wool, rated at 0000, works best for making thermite.

Image Notes1. Load a container up with steel wool and have at it, light 'er up. Try to makesure it burns as completely as possible.

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Image Notes1. Just cut some screen out of an old window and poof! Free strainer of ironoxide!2. Filtered.3. Not filtered.

Image Notes1. The consistency of my Iron Oxide after filtering it.

step 3:Refining Part 2This next step is not necessarily required, depending on how fine your burnt steel wool, (now called iron oxide), is, but as I am something of a perfectionist I like mychemicals to be as fine as I can get them.

If you have a ball mill similar to the one below, this step will be simple for you. Toss your iron oxide into whatever container you use along with some grinding media anaway you go!

If, on the other hand, you do not have a fancy shmancy ball mill, no big deal. A Mortar and Pestlewill get the job done just as well.

So will a coffee can full of iron oxide and some grinding media. All you have to do is shake it... A lot. By grinding media I mean something small, hard, and round, that capable of breaking up the particles that you are trying to refine.

So, if you opted to go through with this step, use one of these methods to crush the iron oxide. Unless you get it ground to a powder it clumps together a little bit, but dworry about it, because that's about the consistency that I use it at, and it still works. It doesn't have to be perfect by a long shot, just do what you can and move on.

Image Notes1. If you have a ball mill, it makes grinding chemicals a lot easier. Don't worrythough, there are other ways.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mortar_and_pestle

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Image Notes1. Coffee cans are great for storing storing chemicals that don't need to besealed away from moisture, plus they can double as a grinder.2. My grinding media. They're a bunch of ceramic balls we have been finding ouin our garden for years.

step 4:MixingNow, assuming you either ground your own aluminum or bought some off of the internet, it's time to start mixing our materials.What we are looking for here is a ratio, (by weight, not volume), of 3 parts iron oxide, 2 parts aluminum, and 2 parts plaster of paris.

I just went by what would fit best in my mixing container. 60 grams of iron oxide, followed by 40 grams of both aluminum and plaster of paris. (Divide 60 and 40 grams20 and you get the original ratio, 3:2:2.)

Once you have the right amount, mix the three together thoroughly. The metals tend to sink and 'stick' to the bottom, so make sure to mix it as well as you can until i t ione uniform color. In most cases it should look solid gray.

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step 5:Just add water!Now that your cast thermite powder is mixed, make sure you have your molds ready, then go ahead and add some water.

You'll want to add plenty of water. As you mix be sure to scrape the bottom of the container you are using, as some of the thermite will be rather stubborn, and won't wto join the rest of the crowd. If you think you added too much water because your thermite is really soupy, don't worry. As it dries the extra water will be pushed to the and you can just drain it off.

If all goes well, it should end up looking something like the picture below.

Oh yea, one more thing. Once you've done this, you have less than ten minutes to pour the thermite into the mold,so be SURE you are ready to continue beforeyou mix in the water.

step 6:CastingThis is it! The final step!

Take that nice gooey thermite that you worked so hard on and carefully slop it into whatever you are using as a mold. This ice cube tray worked very well as I wantedsomething small and reusable. Since the shape of the ice cube tray is larger at the 'bottom' I didn't have any trouble removing the cubes.

Keep in mind how the thermite will harden inside an object when you are deciding what you want to use as a mold. Something like a bottleneck vase for flowers wouldnever work unless you planned on breaking the vase off of the cast thermite once it had dried.

Once it has solidified, (it should only take about a half hour to 45 minutes to), pour off the water and remove it f rom the mold. According to the anarchist cookbook, thewill have to dry in the sun for a week, more or less depending on the size of the cast. Alternately you can place them in a oven or dehydrator to dry them much faster,probably in a matter of a few hours, which is the method I use.

Whatever you do, dontput them in your microwave. I doubt they would ignite, but as they are basically chunks of metal, I don't think your microwave would appreciateOnce again, I'm not liable! Be smart!

As for ignition, thermite requires extremely high temperatures. If it was normal powdered thermite that we were talking about a magnesium sparkler would do the trick,not for cast thermite. This requires something like the heat from a propane torch, (don't try it, you would have to be far too close to ignite it.) I use something called FirsFire Mix. Google it or check back in the near future, as my next instructable will be on making a basic igniter for thermite.

That's it, you're done! If you need any help, check back or comment/pm me, I would be more than happy to help. This is my first instructable, so let me know how I did

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*Edit* For those of you who still need help lighting thermite and other difficult to ignite materials, check thisout.

Enjoy your new cast thermite!

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Comments

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4000695says: Apr 24, 2009. 5:20 PM REPHI SORY about the two comments but this hit me when I closed the page. Thermite is two medals that comdukt electricity so running a lot of current threwthem will cos a lot of heat. That should cos them to bern.

mr.spacesays: May 25, 2009. 12:24 P(removed by author or community request)

4000695says: May 29, 2009. 11:22 AM REPI have dyslexia so it is hard to spell for me, But it is nice that people like to tare me down. Thanks for making my life harder.

knotmuchsays: Jun 3, 2009. 9:07 AM REPI too have dislexia.I would suggestion two things1) take your time and plan what you want to say2) I sometimes use word or other word processing programs. I type in what I want to say, hit the spell check, and once everthing is correct copyand paste.

=)

4000695says: Dec 26, 2009. 9:34 AM REPI have a speech to text program but it is broken :(But thank you for the edvise.

RIV3RFr0Gsays: May 30, 2009. 2:35 AM REPi am dislexic to and it is hard

wizoddsays: Sep 25, 2008. 7:55 PM REPThis is NOT a good idea! It will work well with fairly course aluminum, but aluminum powder gets touchier and touchier around water as it gets finer. A mix very fine (100mesh&finer) can ignite by getting damp. This risk is higher with ultra fine (black) aluminum, and the addition of magnesium will increase thelikelyhood. The resulting cubes will burn a little cooler because they will use up some energy to turn the plaster back into powdered (anhydrous) form--though probably not noticeably so. The addition of sulfur to make thermate, also lowers the ignition temperature to well below the melting point of aluminumIt is not a good idea, for the same reason, to keep mixed thermite powder on hand--moisture can set it off spontaneously (it is also illegal in many places.)

Always store fuels (like aluminum) away from oxidizers (iron oxide) in cool dry places. There are a number of different formulations for termite and relatedincendiaries. Some are designed to cut, some to weld, some to set fires. It won't normally explode, but if you contaminate the mix with other things, anythincan happen. A little bit of a stronger oxidizer might cause part of the batch to explode--sending molten iron spraying in all directions. Such a device could bmade by surrounding a small HE charge, or even a glass vial of water.... One thing that the mixes can do is put out a LOT of heat in a very small space in avery short time. In or under water this makes a spectacular (albeit dangerous) show. Most such experimentation should be done at a good distance. Becareful about setting it off on the ground too...if you have a porous rock and it hits the molten iron, it may explode if it has any water soaked into it.

Nowandthensays: Dec 6, 2009. 11:58 PM REPAre those Incendiary Termites like "Fire Ants"?

loopycar27says: Sep 9, 2009. 2:25 PM REPi dont think werre exactly boy scouts here even though noone likes molten iron to the face.. lol good ppoints though some i wouldnt have thought abouthelpful

Zlwillysays: Sep 26, 2008. 3:54 AM REPYes, moist aluminum is more likely to ignite. (Weird, huh?) However, a slurry of aluminum, iron oxide, and plaster of paris has never burned my housedown. Yes, this isn't quite as potent as regular thermite. But it is still pretty interesting, in some cases more so that the powder alone. (If you still believethat thermite can burn through an engine block, please try it for yourself. It's nowhere near the first time that a commonly known fact has been VERYincorrect.) NO one added sulfur to thermite. At least not in my Instructable. I'm not making flash powder here, please read the whole instructable in itsentirety. Don't keep mixed thermite on hand? Assuming that's true, it's a good thing I don't. Assuming it's not, are you SURE you aren't confusing thesafety precautions of flash powder with thermite? If you meant some of these points (such as the salver comment) to be a general statement, rather thadirected at this Instructable, my apologies. ;-) The last 2 points you made are very good, thermite does have some interesting reactions with water! Mymain point being that experience has led me believe that this is a perfectly safe experiment to perform. Thanks to your warnings I may be a li ttle morewary, but until I have reasons to believe otherwise, I will continue with my thermite excursions in the same manner. Cheers!
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Jonny Katanasays: Jul 14, 2009. 11:09 PM REPEngine blocks are made from either cast iron (melting point = ~1200 C), aluminum (mp = 660 C), magnesium (mp = 650 C), or an alloy of the lattertwo.

Considering that:

A: Thermite is used to weld things like railroad tracks (which are made of steel that's far thicker than any part of an engine block) together.B: Thermite burns at around 2500 C, hotter than the melting points of all the aforementioned automotive engine block materials.C: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOPOaeooTXw

I would wager that a large quantity of thermite would indeed burn through an engine. However, I grant you that it would have to be a very largeamount of thermite to burn through the block of anything bigger than that Peugeot piece of trash :D

sneakyshitnlsays: Oct 22, 2009. 6:19 AM REPWill Steelwool(000) do the job?

SeverinRsays: Aug 6, 2009. 12:37 PM REPwhere can you get mag ribbon?

loopycar27says: Sep 9, 2009. 2:22 PM REPebay you can find 75ish feet for 7$ but as for a reaal store i dont think theyre are any.. not that ive seen anyways id try a hobby store maybe?

loopycar27says: Sep 9, 2009. 2:20 PM REPhey whaat kind of alluminum did you use in thaa coffee grinder sorry to be too picky but i wanna know like pop tabs and a wire cutter of a trip to home depoto get some aluminum rod

loopycar27says: Sep 8, 2009. 1:38 PM REPif this whole thing works i love you

Radioactive_-Chemist101-says: Jan 24, 2009. 8:15 AM REPa better way to get iron oxide is by theelectrolosis of a salt water solution with some iron rods. Not graphite. Then filter the muck and let it dry. Grind it up ina pestle and mortar and there powdered iron oxide.

octavian234says: Sep 4, 2009. 12:30 AM REPnice icon

chriskarrsays: Aug 28, 2009. 10:24 AM REPThat is a 'better' way to get iron oxide, if you're looking for eff iciency from cost/time/end-product mass Vs. beginning mass. There is one thing that youdid not consider, though, and thatis the fact that when you make iron oxide via electrolysis you do not have an end product of Fe2O3 which is the bestiron oxide to use for thermite mixtures.

The Ideanatorsays: Oct 1, 2009. 5:32 AM REPWhats wrong with Fe3O4? it has more oxygen, shouldn't that let the thermite burn better?

coolsciencetechsays: Oct 5, 2009. 2:49 PM REPI dont believe you can make Fe3O4

Rs mastersays: Dec 5, 2009. 10:30 PM REPi didnt think that you could make h2o2 but i was worng...

The Ideanatorsays: Oct 5, 2009. 3:53 PM REPI did through water electrolysis. When you get to the drying part, evaporate it as heating it(in a propane grill) turns most of it back into Fe2O

(pic: red is the grilled, black is evaporated)
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coolsciencetechsays: Oct 7, 2009. 12:10 PM REPoh kk nvm

unaffiliatedpersonsays: Aug 17, 2009. 3:25 PM REPdid ur cubes work? also did u add lighter fluid to the steel wool to burn it?

Billdo22says: Jun 26, 2009. 12:59 PM REPi dont think i burned mine properly. the burnt steel wool is still magnetic. what am i doing wrong?

GlueyMcGeesays: Jul 27, 2009. 1:28 PM REP

it's still iron oxide i f it's magnetic you have Fe3O4 magnetite or black iron oxide

kruser495says: Feb 15, 2008. 8:36 PM REPis it really rust that you get when you burn it?

Jonny Katanasays: Jul 14, 2009. 11:21 PM REPBecause iron is a transition metal, and thus has multiple oxidation states, there are various forms of iron oxide. What is commonly known as rust ishydrated iron (III) oxide, while the heat-oxidized powder left after burning steel wool is most likely iron (II,III) oxide. Fortunately, they both work well forthermite.

Zlwillysays: Feb 15, 2008. 8:47 PM REPWell, Wikipedia (my 2nd favorite website) says "rust is the oxidation of steel or iron at very slow rates." I'm no chem major so I'm not sure if this exactly

constitutes rust, but I thinkit does. Thanks for the comments!

kruser495says: Feb 15, 2008. 8:49 PM REPdid your thermite mix work when you used the burned steel wool?

Zlwillysays: Feb 15, 2008. 8:59 PM REPDo you mean in powdered form or in solid? It worked both ways actually. I remember back when I used to burn out DC wall-warts daily trying tobuild up enough Iron Oxide to make thermite using the nail in salt water method. Steel Wool is somuch better.

ETWolverinesays: Jun 19, 2009. 10:44 AM REPI have seen thermite reactions that used plaster of paris instead of iron oxide. So... can I just add aluminum to plaster of paris and then mold it and forgetabout the iron oxide? Or do I still need the iron oxide to make this work. Also, my understanding is that 4th of July sparklers burn at about 1,000 to 1400 deC. Isn't that hot enough to start the reaction? Finally, can I add a fuse to the molds before they solidify (like a toothpick sticking out of an ice cube)? Thanksin advance.

Evilblazesays: Jun 21, 2009. 11:42 AM REPYou can read from the gypsum thermite here: http://evilblaze.extra.hu/

And a sparkler is enough hot to light the plaster/aluminum or the "normal" thermite.

Grmgunnersays: Apr 5, 2008. 9:14 AM REPif we dont purchase our aluminum powder online can we just cut up cans and then break them up in a coffee grinder? and then to get the powder finer dowhat we did to the iron oxide? like with the ball mill? or will the coffee grinder get the job done fine?
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E3POsays: Jun 6, 2009. 10:01 AM REPYou should be able to find aluminum powder in any paint store.

urbosssezsays: Apr 11, 2008. 8:31 PM REPsorry coffee grinders hate aluminum foil trust me ive tried it atleast 10 times (cuz im too stupid to ever learn that it will never work) all it does is ball up thaluminum foil into small metal spitballs and the powder that it does produce usually gets carried up by the air and smells HORRIBLE if u do try this besure to wear goggles

sexpistolsrule666says: Jul 11, 2009. 12:42 AM REPyou should tear off smaller strips of foil. or get a better grinder. or just order some real alluminum powder...

Zlwillysays: Apr 12, 2008. 9:01 AM REPMaybe you have a bad grinder? Or just bad luck? I've used a coffee grinder successfully many times, the trick to getting past the balled up foil is tocontinue adding more and more foil strips. As the mass of the total foil increases the grinder... well it "grinds" more efficiently, instead of just throwinthe material around the sides. Goggles and a dust mask would probably be a good idea though. I never had any problems with breathing, but thesmell I DO remember. ;-)

Zlwillysays: Apr 6, 2008. 7:29 PM REPA coffee grinder and some aluminum foil will work fine, just don't run the grinder until it's too hot to touch or you will burn it up. Foil made this way causea lot more sparks and light, which I prefer in most cases.

chriskarrsays: Aug 26, 2009. 4:35 AM REP

What I used to grind my aluminum was foil in a blender with water. Drying the result is a bit difficult, though.

E3POsays: Jun 1, 2009. 8:03 PM REPI know it's fun to try to extract your own materials from household items. I do it all the time just to say that I can. But seriously, ordering the chemicals grounto the right mesh and certified pure from ebay or another distributor is way way way cheaper and much less time consuming than trying to grind your own.It's also safer when you consider how dangerous aluminum is to the human condition if inhaled once airborne or absorbed through the pores.

vince 09says: Apr 14, 2009. 1:41 PM REPOK so I know you can get aluminum from an etch a sceh, or you can grind up a chunk of aluminum. i dont have an etch a sceh or a chunck of aluminumhandy so, I was wondering if I could use chaff from a B-52 it is very fine aluminum. is almost looks like shiney hair but its aluminum... could I use thateffectively or is it too thin, its like aluminum hair?

ShampooRobotsays:May 31, 2009. 11:16 AM REP

my method. get aluminum foil pinch with pliers into a compacted ball grind down into powder. pretty simple.

vince 09says: May 31, 2009. 12:15 PM REPya I've seen other people do it before but I have this stuff with nothing to do with it lol

mr.spacesays: May 25, 2009. 12:49 PM REPThe finer the better

vince 09says: May 25, 2009. 5:04 PM REPok I'll give it a try

EragonShadeslayersays: Aug 1, 2008. 8:33 AM REPIt burns easier if you touch a 9volt battery to the wool. This also makes for a great fire starter. (Its amazing what you learn in boy scouts)

Zlwillysays: Aug 1, 2008. 3:09 PM REPI actually burns better? Or do you just mean that it's easier to light that way? I'm nowhere near my 'lab', so I can't test it to find out. I just use what workfor me!
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EragonShadeslayersays: May 22, 2009. 5:36 PM REPRotten's right. It does burn better, BUT it also is easier to light. apparently its such a thin strand that the current overloads like when your lightbulbblows, but theres alot of this & it burns nice & red-hot.

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8035668 cast thermite

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