6 textiles (chap 6)

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Textiles Textiles Chapter 6 Chapter 6

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6th Chapter in Fashion Marketing

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Page 1: 6 textiles (chap 6)

TextilesTextilesChapter 6Chapter 6

Page 2: 6 textiles (chap 6)

TextilesTextiles Textiles : Fibers and FabricsTextiles : Fibers and Fabrics

The Fiber IndustryThe Fiber Industry Fiber – an extremely fine, hair-Fiber – an extremely fine, hair-

like strand almost invisible to the like strand almost invisible to the eye- is the smallest element of a eye- is the smallest element of a a fabrica fabric

Types of FibersTypes of Fibers1.1. Natural FibersNatural Fibers2.2. Man-made FibersMan-made Fibers

Page 3: 6 textiles (chap 6)

Raw MaterialsRegardless of the design or manufacturing process, the basic raw material for making rayon is cellulose. The major sources for natural cellulose are wood pulp—usually from pine, spruce, or hemlock trees—and cotton linters. Cotton Linters are residue fibers which cling to cotton seed after the ginning process

                                                                              

To make rayon, sheets of purified cellulose are steeped in caustic soda, dried, shredded into crumbs, and then aged in metal containers for 2 to 3 days. The temperature and humidity in the metal containers are carefully controlled.After ageing, the crumbs are combined and churned with liquid carbon disulfide, which turns the mix into orange-colored crumbs known as sodium cellulose xanthate. The cellulose xanthate is bathed in caustic soda, resulting in a viscose solution that looks and feels much like honey. cotton linters. Cotton linters are residue fibers which cling to cotton seed after the ginning process.

Page 4: 6 textiles (chap 6)

TextilesTextiles

Natural FibersNatural Fibers Cotton- substance attached to Cotton- substance attached to

the seed of a cotton plantthe seed of a cotton plant MOST WIDELY USED NATURAL MOST WIDELY USED NATURAL

FIBERFIBER ““THE FABRIC OF OUR LIVES”THE FABRIC OF OUR LIVES”

Page 6: 6 textiles (chap 6)

TextilesTextiles

Silk – comes from the silkworm. Silk – comes from the silkworm. The silkworm forms silk by The silkworm forms silk by forcing two fine streams of a forcing two fine streams of a thick liquid out of tiny openings thick liquid out of tiny openings in its head. These streams in its head. These streams harden into fibers upon contact harden into fibers upon contact with air.with air.

Has a luxurious feel and can be Has a luxurious feel and can be worn year round.worn year round.

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TextileTextile

Man-Made Fibers- are made Man-Made Fibers- are made in a chemist’s laboratory. in a chemist’s laboratory. They are made from wood They are made from wood pulp, petroleum, natural gas.pulp, petroleum, natural gas. Ex: rayon, acrylic, triacetate, Ex: rayon, acrylic, triacetate,

spandex, acetate, polyesterspandex, acetate, polyester

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TextileTextile

Man-Made Fiber DevelopmentMan-Made Fiber Development 75% of all fibers used in America 75% of all fibers used in America

are man-madeare man-made All man made fibers start out as All man made fibers start out as

thick liquidsthick liquids SPINNERETTE- a mechanical SPINNERETTE- a mechanical

device through which a thick liquid device through which a thick liquid is forced to produce fibers or is forced to produce fibers or varying lengthsvarying lengths

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TextilesTextiles

Types of Man-Made FibersTypes of Man-Made Fibers1.1. Cellulosic FibersCellulosic Fibers

2.2. Non Cellulosic FibersNon Cellulosic Fibers

Cellulosic Fiber- cellulose fibers made from soft woods chemically treated.

Ex. rayon, triacetate, acetate

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Acetate RAYON

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TextilesTextiles

Noncellulosic fibers- fibers made Noncellulosic fibers- fibers made from molecules of petroleum, from molecules of petroleum, natural gas, air and water. Fiber natural gas, air and water. Fiber chemist’s link the molecules into chemist’s link the molecules into long chains called long chains called polymerspolymers..

PolyesterPolyester and and NylonNylon account for account for 75% of the man-made fiber market75% of the man-made fiber market

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TextilesTextiles

Man-Made Fibers are sold to Man-Made Fibers are sold to fabric manufacturers:fabric manufacturers:

1.1. UnbrandedUnbranded

2.2. Branded or TrademarkedBranded or Trademarked

3.3. Licensing agreement (fabrics Licensing agreement (fabrics must pass tests)must pass tests)

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TextilesTextiles

Licensed trademark – A fibers Licensed trademark – A fibers registered trademark used under registered trademark used under a licensing agreement whereby a licensing agreement whereby use of the trademark is permitted use of the trademark is permitted only to those manufacturers only to those manufacturers whose end products pass whose end products pass established tests.established tests. Ex. Fortrel is a licensed trademarkEx. Fortrel is a licensed trademark

Fortrel®

                          

      

Page 16: 6 textiles (chap 6)

TextilesTextiles Marketing of Natural and Man-Marketing of Natural and Man-

Made FibersMade Fibers1.1. Advertising Advertising – WWD – WWD

Cooperative advertising- costs shared Cooperative advertising- costs shared by a store and a fiber producerby a store and a fiber producer

2.2. Research and Development-Research and Development- improve fibers for wash-ability and improve fibers for wash-ability and wrinkle resistancewrinkle resistance

3.3. Customer Service-Customer Service- technical technical advice, filmsadvice, films

Page 17: 6 textiles (chap 6)

TextilesTextiles

The Fabric IndustryThe Fabric Industry Textile Fabric- any material that is Textile Fabric- any material that is

made by weaving, knitting, made by weaving, knitting, braiding, knotting, laminating, braiding, knotting, laminating, felting, or chemical bonding.felting, or chemical bonding.

Yarn- a continuous thread formed Yarn- a continuous thread formed by spinning or twisting fibers by spinning or twisting fibers togethertogether

Page 18: 6 textiles (chap 6)

TextilesTextiles Greige goods (gray goods)Greige goods (gray goods) – –

unfinished fabrics (not printed or dyed unfinished fabrics (not printed or dyed yet)yet)

Textile converter-Textile converter- a producer who a producer who buys greige goods, contracts to have buys greige goods, contracts to have them finished (dyed, bleached, them finished (dyed, bleached, printed) and sells the finished goodsprinted) and sells the finished goods

Yarn-dyedYarn-dyed – yarns dyed before being – yarns dyed before being woven or knittedwoven or knitted

Piece-dyedPiece-dyed – yarns dyed after being – yarns dyed after being woven or knittedwoven or knitted

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TextilesTextiles Advantages of a Textile ConverterAdvantages of a Textile Converter

1.1. A textile converter can spare the A textile converter can spare the fabric mill the trouble of anticipating fabric mill the trouble of anticipating what colors, textures and types of what colors, textures and types of fabric will be in future demand.fabric will be in future demand.

2.2. A textile converter can supply A textile converter can supply apparel producers with smaller runs apparel producers with smaller runs of a specific fabric than a mill can.of a specific fabric than a mill can.

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TextilesTextiles

Marketing of FabricMarketing of Fabric1.1. Fashion experts – Color Association Fashion experts – Color Association

of US International Color Authorityof US International Color Authority2.2. Textile trade shows – Textile trade shows –

Textalia; Milan, Italy Textalia; Milan, Italy Interstoff Textile Fair; Frankfurt, Interstoff Textile Fair; Frankfurt,

GermanyGermany Ideocomo; Como, Italy Ideocomo; Como, Italy Premiere Vision; Paris FrancePremiere Vision; Paris France

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TextilesTextiles Government Regulation of Fabric:Government Regulation of Fabric:

1954 – Flammable Fabrics Act:1954 – Flammable Fabrics Act: banned ignitable fabrics and banned ignitable fabrics and apparel.apparel.

1972- Care Labeling of Textile 1972- Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel:Wearing Apparel: required that all required that all fabrics be labeled to show the type fabrics be labeled to show the type of care they require, including wash-of care they require, including wash-ability, water temperature, ability, water temperature, bleach/no bleach, ironingbleach/no bleach, ironing

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