6-fence - gorilla fence installation · to do this, move the stakes you previously used to mark the...
TRANSCRIPT
WARNING!
Important Information regarding the care,
use and warranty of this vinyl product is
included in this set of instructions
It is imperative that the homeowner gets
this document after installation
Page 1 of 7
GORILLA FENCE (Private & Semi-Private) INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS Semi-Private Fence with “H” Post
1. For Assembly of Fence, use the Semi-Private Fence Instructions
2. For Post Installation and attachments of Rails, use these Gorilla Fence Instructions.
3. A 5.5” long piece of filler “U” Channel must be added to the end of every rail to shim the rail out to 1.75” in order for it to fit snuggly in the groove of the “H” Post or “1¾” “U” Channel
These instructions are to be used as general guidelines for the installation of your vinyl fence under normal installation conditions. Local conditions may exist which may require changes in the recommended methods of installation noted in these instructions such as extreme weather, bad soil conditions such as expansive soil or poorly compacted soil, extreme winds or heat, etc.
1. Before you begin, familiarize yourself with the installation instructions.
2. Tools Required for Installation: a) Measuring tape b) Wood or Metal Stakes c) Post-hole digger / auger d) Post-mix concrete e) String f) Hammer g) Shovel h) Spray paint i) Wheelbarrow j) Level
k) Duct tape to seal rail ends l) Saw m) Drill n) Wrenches (adjust gate)
3. KNOW WHAT’S BELOW BEFORE YOU
DIG! Most areas have a call center that you can call to have the utilities located prior to digging. Calling your local utility company is the easiest way to determine who to call. It is important to note that most utility companies will not locate and mark private utility lines that were installed by homeowners or contractors. Locating utility lines prior to digging may not only save your life, it may also release you of liability in many cases if a line is hit during installation that should have been located but was not. Prior to digging the holes, you should be prepared with emergency numbers to call in the event that a utility line is damaged.
4. FENCE LAYOUT: When you purchased the fence you likely drew a layout and determined the amount of fencing you needed. It is very helpful to draw the layout of the fence prior to purchasing and installing your vinyl fence.
Once you have drawn the fence layout (sample above) and received your product, it is time to mark the locations to dig the holes for the posts.
To start, hammer a stake at each corner and end location of your fence. Pull a string line between the end and corner posts. This string line represents where the center of your fence will be. Many people offset the string line at this
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FENCE ● DECK ● RAIL ● DOCKS ●
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time so that it represents the edge of the fence line; this will save an extra step when you begin setting the posts (see Figure 1.1).
Determine gate post locations and set stakes at these locations. Once you have pulled the string line tight you can now mark the center of each post along the string line.
Mark the posthole location by beginning at one end of the fence and marking the center to center measurement of each post (your center to center measurement can be found on the specification sheet of the style fence purchased). For example, if you have a 96.5” on center section, you will measure from the center of your first post 96.5” and mark the ground with upside down marking paint. Continue marking down the string line until you get to the end post. See (Figure 1.1). Important: The center to center measurement between any two posts should never exceed the center to center measurement of the fence style you purchase or your panels will not fit.
LAYOUT CUSTOMIZING: Most projects will not have fence lines that are 96½” increments and will not come out perfectly when measuring. You will have to make one of a few choices.
Option 1 is to have a short section at the end of the line (Figure 1.2).
Option 2 is to make each section equal or shorten several of the sections on the fence so that you don’t have a really short section at the end. For years I chose option 2 and cut down each section to make every section equal but I found that most people don’t notice the section that is short and it saves a lot of time and energy to choose Option 1.
5. DIGGING THE HOLES & INSTALLING THE POSTS:
Once you have marked the fence post locations, you are ready to dig the holes.
Note: Different soil conditions and climates require different footing requirements. Seek guidance from local professionals and building codes to determine the proper depth and width of footing. In many areas, a 10” wide hole for a 5” post with a depth of 36-42” is standard and adequate but different regions and local codes vary. In frost regions longer posts are required to keep your fence firm in the ground. Please contact us if you are unsure whether your project requires a different length of post than the standard length and we can help you with your individual needs. In some regions, a layer of gravel at the bottom of the post holes is added for extra drainage.
You have the option of digging all the holes before fences installation or digging them as you build the fence.
Dig holes using a post-hole digger or an auger. See Figure 1.4. Make sure you have called and located all utility lines and that you adjust your fence accordingly to any conflicts.
If your project is more than a few holes, you could contact your local small equipment tool rental center to rent a one or two man auger. These generally range from $60 – 95 a day to rent. If using a one or two man auger, make sure you familiarize yourself with the operator’s manual to insure your safety. 96½” 96½” 53”
FIGURE 1.2
96½”
96½”
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Safety Tip: When open holes exist, safety standards should be applied to properly protect the area and notify bystanders of the potential trip and fall hazards that exist with open holes in the ground. Clearly mark the area as a construction zone so others are notified of the dangers that exist.
Once the holes are dug, the easiest way to set posts in a straight line is by using a string line stretched from one end of the fence to the other. To do this, move the stakes you previously used to mark the hole locations over 2” if installing a 4” post, 2.5” if installing a 5” post. The reason you are moving the stakes over is because they were used to mark the center of the holes and now we need to move them over so the string line is positioned where the outside of the post should be. See Figure 1.1
To set the post in a straight line you want to level the post and then place the post just off the string line (you do not want the post touching the string line).
Fill the hole around the post with concrete up to 2” – 3” from top of the hole while keeping the post level and just off of the string.
NOTE: If the top of hole is not perfectly formed, do not pour concrete above the point where the holes become deformed. Frost will grab the concrete and heave the post up in the winter. If hole is deformed more than 12” from the surface, then sonotube (available at any lumber yard), must be used to contain concrete for top portion of hole that is deformed.
Plum, square and level the post into position.
You will typically set the post height so the bottom rail has two inches of clearance from the
ground. This bottom gap can be adjusted to fit your project’s needs.
Make sure post is high enough for it to be at least 2” higher than the top rail will be. Test fit a section together to determine the exact height of your fence. If fence has a top lattice, or picket accent, the top-most rail does not sit directly on top of the pickets/lattice. There should be 12” between the top of the middle rail and the bottom of the top-most accent rail. The can be adjusted to customer preference but the standard dimension of our fences are based on this 12” opening.
Continue setting the next post, making sure that distance between the posts matches the measurement of the specification sheet for the style you purchased. Spacing varies depending on type of fence you purchased. Please see specification sheet of your style of fence purchased. You can get these spec sheets by contacting us. Standard gorilla privacy fence is 96½” C-C
Note: At the end of the runs, sections may need to be shortened to maintain desired layout.
Help Tip: It is important to look often down the line of your fence to make sure that the fence is straight and level and plum. If something looks a little off, go back and adjust as needed. Once you complete a section of fence it is very easy to push a fence post one way or another and tamp at the base of the post to ensure that the top of the fence is straight and level plumb. See Figure 1.6 Getting the Height of the Post Right: A method commonly used when setting posts is to set the posts close to the right height but primarily focusing on getting the posts straight in a line (post is level and just off the string). Once this has been completed and prior to the concrete setting up, the installer, with the assistance of another will look down the line and pull the post up a little or knock it down by tapping on the top of the post with a block of
Consult local building codes for depth & width of your footing. Footing
configurations vary depending on soil and
frost conditions
Gravel for proper drainage
Fill dirt approx.. 2-3” Post
Grade
Footing Detail
Concrete
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wood and hammer. The block of wood will help to prevent damage to the vinyl post. When using Gorilla Fence, the post does not have to be set to the correct height as it does with a routed fence. It can be cut off later. HINT: When installing fence on a grade, you should start at the high end of the fence line since the height of the post will be based on the section on the high side of the post, not the low side.
String lines can also be used to help keep the post level but remember that string lines sometimes sag in the middle so it is important to visually look down the top of the fence to make sure the fence is straight. See Figure 1.7. GATE POSTS: Gate posts should be set at the same time the other fence posts are being installed and using the same methods.
The spacing between the two gate posts is VERY IMPORTANT depending on the size of gate you purchased and extra care should be taken to make sure that gate posts are set at the right distance between the gate posts.
Leveling and plumbing the post is essential to the proper operation of the gate. If gate posts are not level, you will notice it when the gates have been installed. Un-level posts also prevent the gates from operating properly.
1⅞” O.D. Galv pipe (7ft long for 5ft fences, 8ft long for 6ft fences) needs to be inserted into gate post before concrete sets in the hole. They need to extend at least 2ft into the ground and at least 3’ – 6” above the ground.
Warning – Do not let posts (especially gate posts with steel pipes in them) get water in them. Freezing water inside the post will cause the post/pipe to burst in the winter
INSTALLING THE BOTTOM RAILS Please note *Semi-Private with Gorilla “H” Post *A 5.5” long piece of filler “U” Channel must be added to the end of every rail to shim the rail out to 1.75” so it fits the groove in the “H” Post snuggly. Place bottom rail with stiffener in bottom cavity, between posts and level. Bottom rail can be placed on blocks to hold it off ground
48”
50”
Grade line
High Side
Low Side
Place 1⅞" O.D. galvanized steel tube (min. 0.100 wall thickness) inside post where used as a gate post. Secure post to steel tube using self-drilling screws
Figure 1.7
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Drill 3/8” holes through outer wall of H-Post as shown and insert screws through inner wall of H-Post and into both sides of the bottom rail. Use two screws for each side of rail (total of four screws per rail connection, eight screws per rail). Ensure that one set of screws connects to metal stiffener in rail.
If shortening a section, the rail and stiffener needs to be cut. When cutting a rail with a picket accent, care must be taken to make sure picket holes are as centered as possible in the short section. This may require cutting some off both ends of the rail to accomplish this.
When cutting rail stiffeners, use heavy duty tin snips, hacksaw or circular saw/sawzall with metal or abrasive blade.
Be sure not to track the metal fillings from the cuts onto the deck or other surface. The filings are sharp and will leave rust marks on any surface overnight.
INSTALLING THE PICKETS Place vertical T&G boards into bottom rail pocket.
Insert the pickets into the bottom rail of each section by starting at one side and inserting the tongue and groove pickets in the bottom rail. See Figure 1.11
Once all of the pickets have been inserted into a section, measure the distance between the post and the last full picket you can fit on the panel. Measure and cut the last picket to the right width and slide the last picket into place next to the post and into the U-channel attached to the post. This cut is best performed with a table saw however standard field tools such as a sawzall or skillsaw can be used effectively. When using a skill saw it is best to use a blade with the maximum amount of teeth per blade such as a plywood blade. When you cut the last picket for the panel, you can use the other half to start the next panel. This will insure you have enough pickets to complete your project.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times when cutting and installing vinyl fence to protect your eyes. Manuals for any equipment should be read and understood prior to use of any machinery and equipment. Safety is always first.
INSTALLING THE TOP RAIL Place top rail onto T&G boards with stiffener in top cavity. If fence has a lattice or picket accent, put stiffener in middle cavity. Lift top rail ¼” up from top of T&G boards to allow for expansion due to heat.
Drill ⅜” holes through outer wall of H-Post.
Insert screws through inner wall of H-Post and into top rail. As with the bottom rail, use two screws for each side of rail (total of four screws per rail connection, eight screws per rail). Ensure that one set of screws connects to metal stiffener.
When drilling holes, try and be consistent as to exactly where holes are drilled for a more uniform appearance.
Drill ⅜” access holes in H-Post wall to place ¾”
self-drilling screws through rail and metal
insert. Use hole plugs in access holes after
attaching rail
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INSTALLING THE TOP PICKETS/LATTICE Install the Pickets or Lattice by inserting them into the mid-rail routed holes. See Figure 2.13.1 Install the top rail at one post and start on that side by feeding the pickets into the routed holes in the top rail. See Figure 2.14.1. Raise rail so that there is 12” between top of middle rail and the bottom of the top rail. They can be adjusted to customer preferences but the standard fence heights are based on there being a 12” opening (this will ensure the fence matches the gate). Fit top rail with 1 screw/plug on each side of rail at both ends.
Use ⅜” plugs to cover holes in H-Post wall.
Add small pieces of filler strip between top of rail and top of cap and use adhesive. This filler strip enhanced to look of this fence; helps support the post cap and eliminate some gaps that bees/wasps might want to use to build nests under the post cap.
Finish post assembly with cap attached by glue or silicone.
CORNER POST ASSEMBLY 1. For corner post conditions, use adhesive to place the PVC filler strip into the exposed "H" channel to provide a uniform appearance. 2. Mount the Gorilla "U" Channel into the shallow recess on the H-Post to provide a mounting structure for the top and bottom rails. 3. The "U" Channel should be secured by three screws at each location where the fence rails will be placed, and by two additional screws placed along the middle of the post. See detail. 4. Level and secure the bottom rail to the "U" Channel using four screws (two on each side).
Rails routed to receive either
pickets or lattice
Rails routed to receive either
pickets or lattice
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Ensure that one set of screws attaches to the metal inserts inside the top and bottom rails. 5. Assemble fence panel and secure top rails using four screws/caps (two on each side). Ensure that one set of screws attaches to the metal inserts inside the top and bottom rails. These screws are not self-drilling screws so a ⅛” pilot hole will have to be drilled when going through the steel stiffener.
Attach colour caps on the heads of the screw.
The screws that are made to accept colour caps are slightly different than the standard screws for attaching “U” channel to post. Be sure to use the correct screw at each application
GATE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
See instructions that came with the gate for gate assembly instructions. See instructions for gate hardware for your particular style of hardware. Gate hardware should be installed on post first. Block gate up in opening so that the top rails line up and secure hardware to gate when satisfied that it is in the correct location. NOTE: Gates are made 1” shorter than fence to allow for gate swing over sidewalks. Secure the hinges to the gate with the provided screws and adjust the hinges to make sure the gaps on both sides of the gate are equal and the gate is level and swinging properly.
Attach the latch to the gate. The latch pin should fit loose into the latch.
Fence Height Chart
55.5" or
71.5"
71" or
84"
71" or
84"
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This warranty is given to (1) the original purchaser, or (2)
the owner(s) of the property at the tim
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the original purchaser (collectively, the “Purchaser”) of vinyl fence and rail profiles m
anufactured by H
omeland Vinyl Products, Inc. (“H
omeland Vinyl”).
For purposes of this warranty, a “Residential Purchaser”
shall refer to a single-family residential hom
eowner and a
“Com
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than a Residential Purchaser. Subject to the exclusions and lim
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to the Purchaser that its vinyl fence and rail profiles (the “Products”) w
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Should any covered defect occur during the warranty
period, Hom
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replacement Products for the defective Products. In lieu of
repair or providing replacement Products, H
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also reserves the right to refund the amount paid by the
Purchaser for the original Products and such refund shall fully discharge all obligations and liabilities of H
omeland
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Vinyl be liable or responsible for labor charges or other expenses arising from
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attaching U-channel trim
the fence posts in order to reduce the natural tendency for fence panels to bow
due to heat build-up);
D
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ited to building or pavement heat build-up,
outdoor grills, and reflected sunlight from w
indows, doors
or other surfaces;
C
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eathering. Norm
al w
eathering is defined as exposure to sunlight and extremes
of weather and atm
osphere that will cause any colored
surface to gradually fade, chalk, or accumulate dirt or
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eathering may occur.
Hom
eland Vinyl shall have sole discretion to determine,
based on reasonable criteria, whether the Products are
undergoing normal w
eathering;
C
olor or pattern variation on any variegated Products;
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olor or pattern variation between any replacem
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odify any product line or color w
ithout notifying the Purchaser. If the original Product is not available, H
omeland Vinyl m
ay choose to provide replacem
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D
iscoloration or other damage caused by air pollution,
mildew
, exposure to chemicals (including, but not lim
ited to sunscreens, insect repellants, acids or bases, rust, lim
e, fertilizers, herbicides, or solvents);
M
isuse, abuse, neglect or improper shipping, handling
or storage;
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amage caused by horses or other large anim
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hich are incom
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ground or structure on which the Products are installed;
Im
pact of foreign objects, fire, earthquake, flood, lightning, tornado, hail or other casualty or act of G
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amage caused by other circum
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ith the following
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ay be transferred only by the original Purchaser and only one (1) tim
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AT THE PU
RC
HASER
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A claim under this w
arranty must be reported in w
riting, with
proof of purchase, to Hom
eland Vinyl Products, Inc., P.O.
Box 170729, Birmingham
, AL 35217-0729, Attn: Warranty
Departm
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ill then have a reasonable time to inspect or, at
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omeland Vinyl shall be the sole judge of w
hether the product is defective and w
hether the defect is due to m
anufacturing.
If Hom
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is within
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omeland Vinyl
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CE & R
AIL • FENC
E & RAIL • FEN
CE & R
AIL • FENC
E & RAIL
FENC
E & RAIL • FEN
CE & R
AIL • FENC
E & RAIL • FEN
CE & R
AIL • FENC
E & RAIL • FEN
CE & R
AIL • FENC
E & RAIL • FEN
CE & R
AIL • FENC
E & RAIL
See important lim
itations on back.
TYPE, SIZE, COLOR, QUANTITY, ETC.