540 magazine - issue 3

WITH THE COMPLIMENTS OF FLY540 - AFRICA’S LOW COST AIRLINE

ISSUE 03 // NOVEMBER - JANUARY 2011

A RISING STAR AT EUROVISION

STELLA MWANGI

TOP FAMILY ATTRACTIONS

OL PEJETA THE HOUSE

THAT ADNAN

BUILT

IN & AROUND KAMPALA

http://www.ole-serenihotel.com

540 magazine

Africa’s low cost airline

// 540 Issue 03 // November 2011 - January 2012

contents

1

18

16 28

is published by

LAND & MARINE PUBLICATIONS (KENYA) LTDSuite A5, 1st Floor, Ojijo Plaza Plums Lane, off Ojijo Road, ParklandsPO Box 2022, Village Market 00621, Nairobi, KenyaTel: +254 (0)20 374 1934Email: [email protected]

Editor: Denis GathanjuSales Manager: Linda Gakuru

on behalf of

FLY540Riverside Green Suites, Palm Suite, Riverside DrivePO Box 10293-00100, Nairobi, KenyaTel: +254 (0)20 445 2391/2/3/4/5Email info@fl y540.comwww.fl y540.com

The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions.

©2011 Land & Marine Publications (Kenya) Ltd

3 Foreword4 tazara express Off the beaten track

8 mombasa Yacht club Mombasa Yacht Club rebuilds for the future

12 news15 ‘10 to 4’ mountain Biking event Mountain bike fund-raising event in the Mount Kenya region

16 eating out Seventh heaven

18 Stella mwangi A rising star at Eurovision

22 Batwa trail No ordinary forest walk

26 the 540 network Location and fl ight maps

28 Wangari maathai Feisty and courageous ‘mad’ woman who refused to be bowed

34 ol Pejeta The house that Adnan built

36 travel information for east africa38 getting around in east africa40 Day trips Top family attractions in and around Kampala

44 Fly540 fleet46 Kids’ corner48 contact information

BOOK ONLINE AT:

www.fly540.com

AFAARFFICACCSLO

WOCOST AIAA RLRR INEE

Cover Photo© Fredrik Arff / EMI Music Norway

http://www.fly540.com

http://www.exploreans.com

The timing of this magazine coincides with our fifth anni-versary – 23 November. During

November we will also carry our one-millionth passenger. If you are that lucky passenger, a surprise awaits you.

By the time this magazine is published,

one of the new Bombardier CRJ 50-seat

aircraft will have entered service. The

main routes served by this aircraft will

be Mombasa and Tanzania. It should

also give Fly540 some extra capacity and

improve our on-time performance.

On 15 October we increased our flights

between Nairobi and the South Sudan

capital, Juba, to double daily. We view

Juba as a vitally important new destination

for our rapidly expanding international

network. This service began in May, just

ahead of the new nation’s birth in July.

After the successful launch of our M-Pesa

service, we have now introduced a ticket

reservation system linked to M-Pesa

and your phone. To see how this works,

please go to Page 13.

During November, we have the Lamu

Cultural Festival in conjugation with the

Ministry of Tourism. The festival includes

a dhow and goat race – an event not to

be missed. We hope the Fly540 goat is

ready for action.

Festive season

The Festive Season is just around the

corner and we are already in high gear,

making plans for Christmas parties for

two children’s home we sponsor – the

Imani Children’s Home and the Terry

Hope Centre. These homes provide food

and shelter for over 200 children. They

are a worthy cause and we are proud to

be associated with them.

Sammy Nzoka was appointed as the new

Sales Manager, Commercial Jets & Execu-

tive Charters – Africa. His job will be to

handle all charters including VIP flights


// foreword

Welcomeaboard!

3

involving the CRJ Dash 8 aircraft, a job

he has much expertise on. If you need a

charter, please call us.

The Fly540 family continues to grow and

between last month and this October

two of our beautiful flight attendants

brought forth two strong and healthy

boys. Congratulations, girls!

I sincerely hope you enjoy reading our

magazine and that you have a pleasant

flight with us today. We look forward to

welcoming you on board again soon.

Don E. SmithChief Executive Officer

East Africa

Welcome to ‘540’ – our in-Flight magazine.

www.fl y540.com4

OFF THEBEATENTRACK

By Sam Gimson

The Tazara Express leaves Dar es Salaam for Zambia only once a week, so you can

imagine my concern when the tuk tuk I’d arranged to take me from my hotel to the railway station arrived half an hour late.

I then made a major error. I asked my

driver to hurry up. Eager to please his

passenger, he recklessly steered his

machine through the heavy Dar traffi c.

I strained to hold on and shut my eyes

as, at top speed, we alternated between

driving on the correct side of the road,

the wrong side of the road and even off

the road as pedestrians dashed for safety.

A few even dived into a ditch.

confusion

All the while I’m calculating the likelihood

of a three-wheeled vehicle, travelling at

speed on uneven and unpaved roads,

capsizing. But, perhaps, as with a bicycle,

a tuk tuk seems to keep its balance when

going fastest. Adding to the confusion, it

became apparent that my driver did not

actually know where the Tazara station

was; yet somehow, despite all the action,

we still managed to arrive on time. And,

as it turns out, my hazardous journey was

in vain as the train left two hours late.

Despite the wait, time went quickly.

Tazara station is an impressive building

with a surprisingly comfortable fi rst-class

lounge. It appeared that many of the

waiting passengers were, like me, tourists

taking the train for the sheer experience.

The Tazara line was built by the Chinese

in the 1970s to connect landlocked

Zambia with the port of Dar es Salaam.

When I boarded the train and entered

my assigned cabin, I realised I would be

sharing my journey with three others –

two Tanzanian men and a Korean lady.

We set off with an alarming jolt and then

another, until the jolts and jerks merged

into a kind of rhythm and we rocked up

to a top speed – yet it was still slower

than the tuk tuk had managed earlier.

The cabin was comfortable enough, but

the bathroom down the corridor was

just a hole in the bottom of the carriage,

which became rather unpleasant later in

the journey, especially when we stopped

for up to six hours at a time.

tasty

For dinner, I was served chicken with rice.

I found it quite tasty. This was just as well

as we had it again for lunch and evening

meal every day thereafter. The kitchen was

located towards the rear of the train and

included two round-bottomed pans in

which boiling hot oil swirled and skipped

precariously to the rocking and jerking

of the train. I have to say the chef did a

brilliant job cooking for so many people in

such hot and dangerous conditions.

I went to bed soon after my late meal and

I was lulled to sleep by the train’s motion,

only for it to repeatedly shake me awake

again. On the fi rst night, the train went

through the Selous Game Reserve and

Mikumi National Park, but sadly, in the

dark, we failed to spot any wildlife.

I woke to a breakfast of cold egg and

boiled sausage and peered out at a

remote-looking station where we had

stopped. Despite my compartment being

full, I was the only person spending much

time in it. The Korean lady, who turned

out to be a travel rep, spent her time next

door with her tour group. I’m not sure

where the two Tanzanian men went each


// Tazara Express

5

OFF THEBEATENTRACK

‘We set off with an alarming jolt and then another, until the jolts and jerks merged into a kind of rhythm and we rocked up to a top speed’

http://www.doubletree.com

day, but they returned to the cabin only

at certain stations where they would be

handed mysterious boxes through the

window by people waiting on the plat-

form, only for these boxes to be packed

away under the beds before they once

again dispersed throughout the train.

Although nominally an express, the train

stopped at several rural stations on the

way to its final destination at New Kapiri

Mposhi. Each time it stopped, people

would come to sell everything from

bananas to radios and there was often

enough time to step off the train and

walk around.

Prolonged

On the second day, during the afternoon,

we made a prolonged stop at Mbeya,

where most passengers disembarked,

walked about the station, enjoyed the

mountain views and bought samosas and

chapatis served in newspaper.

As the sun went down, I noticed some

of the people from my carriage taking

pictures of the train. Looking where their

cameras were pointing, I could under-

stand why, because the evening sunlight

was picking out the strange and rustic

appearance of our train in dramatic

detail. That evening I shared a drink with

fellow passengers as we recounted our

experiences of Africa. We all agreed that

the journey thus far had been thoroughly

enjoyable and well worth the $48 we had

paid for a one-way, first-class ticket.

The train approached the Zambian

border at about eight o’clock that night

and shortly afterwards I retired to my

compartment to read. The next morning

I woke to find the scenery noticeably

greener and lusher than Tanzania.

I could see excited children running up

to the train and waving as we passed

their villages. The Korean tourists had

brought sweets with them to give out.

This led to some confusion and pushing

among the children, which ended in

tears on at least one occasion. Even

though most of them were happy just

to wave from a distance, it became clear

that some had learned to expect some-

thing from the train. I even saw children

who did not wave at all but simply

cupped their hands and stood still.

We passed through one village where

children huddled around the Korean

carriage yelled: “Give me money!” Then

I heard: “Hey you… that one… give me

money… you are an idiot!” At which

point they all burst out laughing. Luckily,

most of the Korean passengers could not

speak English and were unaware of the

insult, which was then followed up by

another child shouting: “You are a fool…

you are a stupid banana!”

Dramatic

We arrived in New Kapiri Mposhi on the

third day in the midst of another dramatic

sunset. Many of the English-speaking

tourists, myself included, grouped

together to hire a ‘coach’ for 50,000

kwacha per person. This turned out to

be a very small minibus, already crowded

with passengers. Jam-packed and

without a millimetre of space in which to

breathe, we headed for Lusaka.

Africa’s low cost airline 7

‘each time it stopped, people would come to sell everything from bananas to radios and there was often enough time to step off the train and walk around’

// Tazara Express

8 www.fl y540.com

Mombasa Yacht Club //

MOMBASA YACHT CLUB REBUILDS FORTHE FUTURE

by Robert Deaves

Having marked its centenary in 2010, Mombasa Yacht Club has begun a rebuilding

and development programme that is taking full advantage of the splendid facilities and grounds occupied by the club alongside Kilindini Harbour on the south side of Mombasa Island.

Mombasa Yacht Club has one of the

most picturesque outlooks of any yacht

club in the world. Club racing is held in

the waters directly off the colonial-style

clubhouse, which stands on an elevated

headland overlooking the harbour. In

spite of all the commercial traffi c passing

through the same stretch of water on its

way between the Port of Mombasa and

the open sea, the club is able to run a

full racing programme for its dinghy fl eet

from October to June. Most racing is held

off the clubhouse, though longer races

do occasionally venture out to open sea.

Although the club has fallen on harder

times in recent years, it has a long and

fascinating history. In fact, Mombasa

Yacht Club was the fi rst sailing club on

mainland East Africa. The enthusiasm

to rebuild and rejuvenate is obvious,

with Commodore Chris Soper and club

manager Eric Rupia leading a committee

that is determined to change the direc-

tion of the club and attract new members

from the local community.

The club has about 40 registered

dinghies, mainly Toppers and Lasers,

but also Bosuns and a few Ospreys. In

general, the Topper and Bosun fl eets are

owned by the club while the Lasers are

privately owned. It also has an enviable

trophy cabinet, including silverware

dating back to 1911.

One of the shields on display is a

reminder of better times, when club

member Tony Bentley-Buckle, along with

another member, Ron Blaker, represented

Kenya in the Flying Dutchman class at

the 1960 Olympic Games, when the

sailing events were held in Naples. The

shield contains all the badges collected

by Bentley-Buckle at the Olympics from

other organisations and teams taking

part. Bentley-Buckle qualifi ed for the

Kenyan team after the club adopted the

505 class and won the fi rst All African

505 Championship, sailed in Mombasa

in 1960.

rebuilding

As part of the development programme

to attract new members, the club

grounds are undergoing a total refurbish-

9Africa’s low cost airline

mombasa Yacht club has one of the most picturesque outlooks of any yacht club in the world

10 www.fly540.com

ment and substantial new building work.

The club occupies a large and attractive

parcel of land south of the busy business

district of Mombasa with a large dinghy

park next to a launching ramp, a range

of boatsheds and outbuildings and the

quaint clubhouse overlooking the water.

The club even has its own small beach,

while off to the left is a disused and half

demolished stone pier which at one time

was much used by visiting yachts.

Included in the rebuilding work are new

changing rooms, a new boat store, paved

areas by the pool, fencing and security.

There are tentative plans, too, for a chil-

dren’s area, an outside pool bar, an events

area, improved landscaped gardens and

perhaps even tennis courts and a restau-

rant. Most of the improvements so far

have been sponsored by club members.

When complete, it will offer a pleasant

respite away from the bustle of Mombasa

town and the club’s officials hope this will

attract guests to the club, first to sample

its facilities and then perhaps to join as

members. It also hopes to hire out its

newly created facilities for functions to

generate both income and interest.

recruitment

One of the biggest challenges facing

the club is promoting itself to the local

community and bringing in new, active

members. As Eric Rupia put it: “One of

our biggest problems in expanding is that

no-one knows we are here.” Although the

club is just a stone’s throw from some of

the main business areas in Mombasa and

next to its two shipyards, even the local

taxi drivers have a problem locating it.

However, since the club initiated a

‘sponsor a junior’ programme a few

years back it has attracted a number

of young Kenyans, who are now active

racing members. The long-term hope is

to get sailing more widely recognised by

the Kenya Sports Council and ultimately

to train sailors to a level high enough to

qualify for the Olympics. At the moment

the emphasis is on sailing tuition.

One of the club members, Teddy Ndaro,

is already an RYA qualified instructor. He

hopes to train to Level 2 while undertak-

ing an IT degree course in the UK. After

graduation he plans to take these skills

back to Mombasa to pass on to club

members and help to make sailing avail-

able to more of the local youngsters.

Chris Soper said: “Sailing is not a big

sport in Kenya at the moment, but it

could be, as we have such fantastic

conditions all year round. If we could get

it more recognised in Kenya and more

widely publicised locally, then that would

be a big help.”

travelling

In July the club sent several of its

members about 50 km north to Kilifi

Creek to take part in the 2011 East Africa

Laser Championship. In total there were

16 sailors competing for the title with

sailors also travelling from as far afield as

Naivasha Yacht Club, west of Nairobi.

The event was organised by the Kenya

Laser Association and won by Don White,

with 2012 hopeful Lara Granier in second

in a Radial and Simon Woods in third, all

three sailors coming from Naivasha. The

Mombasa Yacht Club //

“Sailing is not a big sport in Kenya at the moment, but it could be, as we have such fantastic conditions all year round. if we could get it more recognised in Kenya and more widely publicised locally, then that would be a big help”


championship was sailed over three days,

from 15 to 17 July, in diffi cult and windy

conditions that tested the stamina of all

the sailors. The top sailor from Mombasa

was David Mackay in sixth place, while

the young Teddy Ndaro placed eighth

and also won the prize for ‘best effort’.

On the weekend following the Laser

event, the Fireball class held its East

Africa Championship, with eight boats

attending. Kilifi Creek was the venue for

the 2003 Fireball World Championship

and mention of this still brings back fond

memories for local enthusiasts.

Mombasa Yacht Club also had two sailors

competing in the recent All Africa Games

in Maputo, Mozambique. Ndaro placed

15th in the Men’s Laser Radial, while

Alfred Okoth placed ninth in the Laser

Standard. Lara Granier, from Naivasha,

fi nished fi fth in the Women’s Laser

Radials after winning the three light wind

races.

Looking to the future, Chris Soper said:

“MYC has links with the Kenya Yachting

Association [which comprises a repre-

sentative from each sailing club in Kenya]

and we were given approval by the

National Sports Council to send the team

to the All Africa Games, with fi nancial

support from the Kenya government to

cover expenses. Hopefully this means we

will now be eligible to send a team to the

London Olympics, if we can qualify.”

MOMBASA YACHT CLUB – TIMELINE1906 Earliest records of yacht races in Mombasa

1910 Mombasa Yacht Club offi cially formed

1910 First clubhouse built at Ras Kilindini on payment of annual rent of one rupee to the Uganda Railway

1911 The club’s fi rst trophy, the Vice Commodore’s Cup, is presented by the Hon Mr Justice W.R. Hamilton, Chief Justice of the East African Protectorate

1913 Club moves to new site at Mtongwe on the south mainland

1916 Club’s fi rst commodore, Judge A.T. Bonham-Carter, killed in action on the fi rst day of the Battle of the Somme

1918 Club adopts the 18 ft Solent class by the legendary British designer Capt H.H. Nicholson

1938 First interclub competition with Nairobi, Naivasha, the Lake Victo-ria clubs and Dar es Salaam in Tanzania

1939 Club adopts the Coot dinghy from Great Britain and the fi rst nine boats are delivered in December 1939

1939-45 Club moves to Tudor Creek for duration of Second World War as Kilindini Harbour becomes an anchorage for warships

1945 Club returns to Kilindini Harbour

1946 Lease expires on land at Mtongwe and club moves to Mombasa Island, close to its boat moorings

1957 New clubhouse is formally opened and remains in use to this day

1959 Club organises a sail past for Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother during her visit to Kenya and Uganda

1960 On its 50th anniversary the club signs a 96-year lease (dating from 1 January 1953) for its site at Liwatoni from the then Colony and Protectorate of Kenya

1960 Club hosts the fi rst All Africa 505 Championship, which had been recently adopted. Club member Tony Bentley-Buckle wins the event and represents Kenya at the 1960 Olympic Games with crew Ron Blaker in the Flying Dutchman class

1969 Club swimming pool is opened

1970-71 First Fireball and Osprey class boats are brought to the club.

1980 Growing numbers of Kenyans join the club

1978 First Laser boats are sailed at the club, although the Laser fl eet does not start to grow until 1982

1982 Club’s previously large fl eet of Coots is replaced by the similar Bosun dinghies, with the Royal Navy basing its fl eet at the club for several years for crew recreation

1996 Topper Trust is set up to provide training for young people

2003 Declining membership leads to a reciprocal agreement with Mombasa Sports Club to promote sailing

2010 Mombasa Yacht Club celebrates its centenary.

Find out more at the club’s website: www.mombasayachtclub.org

Hamilton, Chief Justice of the East African

FlY540 neWS

Fly540 introduces direct return Flights to ukunda

www.fly540.com

news //

Fly540 has introduced direct return flights between Nairobi and Ukunda, Diani. These serv-

ices operate from Wilson Airport on Mondays to Fridays and from Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA) on Saturdays.

Passengers travelling on weekdays to

the south coast leave Wilson Airport at

09.30 with return flights scheduled for

11.00. On Saturdays, flights depart JKIA

at 11.40 and leave Ukunda airstrip at

13.30. Passengers pay a return fare of

KES 11,380 inclusive of taxes.

Passenger demand

Nixon Ooko, operations director of

Fly540, said: “The introduction of direct

return flights to Ukunda from Nairobi has

been driven by demand from passengers

to and from the south coast, a popular

holiday destination. The airline also oper-

ates services to Amboseli, Nanyuki and

Samburu from Wilson Airport.”

Tickets for the airline’s destinations are

available from travel agents and Fly540

offices at Laico Regency and ABC Place.

Full information on fares and services

can be obtained from the website

(fly540.com) and passengers can book

flights online and pay via M-PESA.

Fly540 commenced operations in

November 2006 with a daily flight

between Nairobi and Mombasa for

local and overseas business and holiday

travellers. The airline’s value-for-money

flights won instant popularity and Fly540

now has 17 destinations in Kenya with

regional services to Bujumbura, Dar es

Salaam, Entebbe, Juba, Kilimanjaro,

Manyara, Mwanza, Serengeti and

Zanzibar.

12

• Fly540 welcomed the arrival of its third Bombardier CRJ aircraft on 2 October. Based at Nairobi, this addi-tion to the fleet will strengthen key services throughout Kenya and Tanzania.

• Following the success of scheduled flights between Nairobi and the South Sudan capital, Juba, which began in May 2011, Fly540 will operate two flights a day start-ing on 15 October.

anD in other neWS...

Bombardier CRJ

the introduction of direct return flights to ukunda from nairobi has been driven by demand from passengers to and from the south coast

number. Go to the

M-Pesa Pay Bill option

and put number

540540. You will be

asked for your refer-

ence number, upon

which you will receive

a confirmation and

thereafter a ticket.”

SmS

Fly540 operates scheduled flights to

17 destinations in Kenya with regional

services to Entebbe, Dar es Salaam, Juba,

Mwanza, Zanzibar and Kilimanjaro. The

airline operates from both Jomo Kenyatta

International Airport and Wilson Airport.

M-Pesa was launched in 2007 by Safa-

ricom. This SMS money transfer system

allows individuals to

deposit, send and with-

draw funds using their

cell phones. M-Pesa

has grown rapidly,

currently reaching over 65 per

cent of Kenya’s adult population.

It is seen as the most successful

mobile phone-based financial service in

the developing world.

The M-Pesa Pay Bill service

allows corporate organisations to receive

funds from their customers or subscrib-

ers for goods and services rendered. This

targets organisations that have many

transactions with customers and need

convenient and timely payment.

m-Pesa will ease the procedure of buying tickets for our customers, many of whom are already familiar with using m-Pesa to pay for other services

Payment For Fly540 tickets sPeeded by m-Pesa

Fly540 passengers can now pay for their tickets by M-Pesa. This fast-growing mobile money

transfer service in Kenya will enable travellers to buy the airline’s tickets from anywhere, any time as long as they are registered for M-Pesa and have money in their M-Pesa account.

Fly540 joins M-Pesa corporate Pay Bill

partners using the service in Kenya

including educational and financial

institutions, NGOs and religious organi-

sations, transport providers, insurance

agencies, the hospitality industry, health

management providers and hospitals.

Simple

Fly540 operations director Nixon Ooko

said: “M-Pesa will ease the procedure of

buying tickets for our customers, many

of whom are already familiar with using

M-Pesa to pay for other services like

buying goods in supermarkets, school

fees, and paying bills for electricity and

water.

“The process is simple. Call Fly540 and

make a reservation to any of our 23

destinations. You will receive a reference

http://www.kijani-lamu.com

http://www.heritage-eastafrica.com

The Mount Kenya ‘10 to 4’ is a downhill mountain bike race and fun ride organised by

the Mount Kenya Trust. The event is held annually to raise funds for local communities and conservation efforts on Mount Kenya.

The race begins at the edge of the Mount

Kenya National Reserve boundary at an

elevation of over 10,000 ft and fi nishes

in the dry savannah country below on the

Laikipia plains at about 4,000 ft.

Proceeds of the ‘10 to 4’ Mountain Bike

Challenge are divided between commu-

nity schools and projects in the vicinity of

the ‘10 to 4’ route and the Mount Kenya

Trust.

Second day

In 2011 a second day of racing was

added to the itinerary. Known as the

‘10 to 4 Hardcore’, the second race day

is aimed at elite Kenyan cyclists and

extremely fi t and experienced overseas

entrants.

All participants compete for a range of

prizes and also get to experience one of

Africa’s most wonderful landscapes in an

entirely unique way.

MOUNTAIN BIKE FUND-RAISING EVENT in the mount KenYa region

// ‘10 to 4’ mountain biking event

Fly540 is a consistent sponsor of the ‘10 to 4’ and in 2011 the airline donated KeS 200,000 of fuel costs

FactS anD inFormation:

- the 2011 event raised KeS 2.2 million for the projects of the mount Kenya trust, which helps to conserve and protect mount Kenya (visit www.mountkenyatrust.org for more information)

- Dates for the 2012 event are 17 and 18 February. Further information and entries are available from october 2011.


www.fl y540.com16

SEVENTHHEAVEN

By Gary Gimson

Eaten out in Nairobi lately? Got a favourite place to dine? I certainly have.

Well, I know these things are hugely

subjective and always a matter of debate

and conjecture; but Seven Seafood &

Grill at ABC Place on Nairobi’s Waiyaki

Way easily gets my vote as the city’s best

eatery – at least for now.

Opened only in late 2010, and more

or less squeezed between the Mercury

nightspot and a popular Java House,

Seven has brought a fresh new light-

touch style of dining to a city that takes a

pride in its great food and its surprisingly

eclectic choice of restaurants.

Freshest

For some, a seafood restaurant located

over 400 km from the sea might be a

place to be avoided. But Seven seems to

serve up the freshest of fi sh and shellfi sh

almost as if they had just been hauled

out of the Indian Ocean.

Sharp, almost clinical, clean cut and

devoid of decorative frills, Seven is one

of a new generation of eateries that

have sprung up throughout the city.

Brew Bistro & Lounge on Ngong Road is

another that comes to mind.

So what to choose? For me, it’s a dozen

oysters (with a rich lime and Bloody

Mary to shoot) with ciabatta and yummy

dips as a hearty appetiser followed by a

heavenly lobster cappuccino (a chowder

with butter-fried lobster chunks fi nished

with a foamy lobster bisque) and grilled

king prawns (or maybe, as an alternative,

a shellfi sh platter comprising king prawns

and both slipper and spiny lobster),

followed by a leisurely café latte.

Seven’s growing popularity means that

getting a table here can be tricky – even

on, say, a Tuesday – so it is advisable to

book. Expect to pay about KES 3,000

per head for two courses with a bottle of

something alcoholic.

acoustics

I don’t want to be picky, but for me the

only downside to Seven’s iconic status as

Nairobi’s brightest and best restaurant is

its puzzlingly poor acoustics. For some

reason, the general background hubbub

makes it diffi cult to hear your dining

companion unless he or she speaks loudly.

And, with tables shoehorned in and fellow

diners a bit up close and personal, this is

not always a welcome situation.

Other than that, it couldn’t be more

perfect.


// Seven

17

Seven is one of a new generation of eateries that have sprung up throughout the city

www.fl y540.com

Stella Mwangi //

18

‘Haba haba, hujaza kibaba’ was the memo-rable chorus sung by

Stella Mwangi when she performed Norway’s entry for the Eurovision Song Contest in May this year. For those unfamiliar with the contest, Eurovision is one of the longest running TV shows and one of the most watched non-sporting events in the world.

A regular on the Norwegian hip hop scene

since she was 11 years old, Stella is an

experienced performer and her confi dence

and talent were evident during the song

contest in Düsseldorf, when she is said to

have “charmed the audience into submis-

sion”. Stella failed to qualify for the fi nal,

but that has not prevented the catchy

sound of ‘Haba Haba’ from topping the

charts in Norway and elsewhere.

Stella Mwangi was born in Kenya in

1986 and her family moved to Norway as

political refugees when she was fi ve. She

remains in close touch with her herit-

age and is proud of her Kenyan roots.

Her lyrics often encompass

Swahili lyrics. ‘Haba Haba,

Hujaza Kibaba’ (‘Small

victories lead to big ones’)

is an African saying she

learned from her grand-

mother.

Her famous smile

and her upbeat songs

have made Stella a household

name in Norway and a recog-

nised artist throughout East Africa.

Her songs have topped the charts in

Kenya, Senegal and Gambia.

Energy

Her performances are full of energy and

the lyrics, for the most part, are happy

and inspiring. However, Stella does not

shy away from singing about the discrimi-

nation that both she and her family had

to endure after moving to Norway in

1991. She has been quoted as saying

that her interest in music was a result of

the racial abuse she encountered daily.

A RISING STAR AT EUROVISIONKENyaN BorN stELLa -


a regular on the Norwegian hip hop scene since she was 11 years old, stella

is an experienced performer and her confidence and talent were evident

during the song contest in Düsseldorf

© B

jørn

Op

sah

l / E

MI M

usi

c N

orw

ay

Stella Mwangi’s album ‘Kinanda’,

by EMI and Big City Records

http://www.littlered.co.ke

http://www.medinapalms.com

Writing music was her way of putting

into words the struggles she and her

family had faced.

accolades

Her songs have been used

in several fi lms including

‘American Pie Presents:

The Naked Mile’ and

‘Save the Last Dance 2’

and in the TV series ‘CSI:

NY’ and ‘Scrubs’. The singer has

received various accolades, too, includ-

ing the Kisima Music Award for Most

Promising New Artist of 2005.

In Kenya, Stella has worked with hip

hop artists such as Abbas Kubaff and

Kantai and with reggae artist Ousman.

December 2006 she performed at ‘MTV

Alert’ in Nairobi.

In recent months Stella has been in the news

for less positive reasons. Anders Behring

Breivik, the man accused of the Norway

massacre in July, mentioned her in his diary

when he referred to Stella’s performance

at Eurovision as “an asylum seeker from

Kenya performing a bongo song”.

controversy

Stella has spoken out about his comments

to Peter Okwoche on the BBC programme

‘Focus on Africa’, saying: “I wasn’t aware

of the diary entry…Being an artiste, a

public person, you have to be prepared

for people having different reactions”.

Describing the massacre and bombing as

in Kenya, stella has worked with hip hop artists such as abbas Kubaff and

Kantai and with reggae artist ousman

In 2006 she received fi ve nominations

in the Chaguo La Teeniz Awards despite

having been on the Kenyan music scene

for only three months at that point.

She has also performed at high-profi le

events, most notably with The Rise

(an African youth group) for Nelson

Mandela when he was in Norway on

an anti-AIDS campaign in 2005 and in an anti-AIDS campaign in 2005 and in

NEW ALBUM

OUT NOW

STELLLLALLM

WAWWNAA GI - KINANN NAA DNN AA

Stella Mwangi’s album ‘Kinanda’,

by EMI and Big City Records

© Fredrik Arff / EMI Music Norway

Norwegian Eurovision Song Contest 2011

© Ern

st Vikn

e

“shocking”, she went on to say: “Norway

is showing the world we don’t fi ght hate

with hate, but fi ght hate with love.”

Meanwhile, Stella is fast becoming a

national treasure in Norway and, with her

feet fi rmly on the ground, no doubt she

will continue to warm the hearts of all

who come into contact with her music.


// Stella Mwangi

www.fly540.com

Batwa Trail //

22

© G

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THE BATWA TRAIL: NO ORDINARY

FOREST WALK

By Jossy Muhangi

For thousands of years the Batwa existed in the primeval forests of East africa as their indigenous and sole inhabitant. now, for the first time in history, you can experience how africa’s last forest tribe lived until only recently. discover the story of the Batwa people only on The Batwa Trail in Uganda’s mgahinga Gorilla national Park.

www.fly540.com24

Inquisitive travellers who are ‘in the know’ are heading to Mgahinga Gorilla National Park

Uganda for a unique cultural experi-ence called the Batwa Trail, which a Ugandan minister recently described as a ‘tourism product of the century’.

Meandering through a pristine ancient

forest at the foot of Gahinga Ridge,

the 8 km trail entails an excursion walk

conducted by Batwa guides who give

insight into their traditional forest life and

culture. The culmination of the hike is the

340 metre long Garama Cave, a lava tube

beneath Mount Mgahinga that used to be

a hideout for the Batwa and also acted as

a council chamber. It is said to have been a

royal residence, a food store and a sacred

gathering point in the forest.

The Batwa guides explain to guests how,

as nomadic hunter-gatherers, they used

to live off the forest, collect honey, make

herbal medicine, hunt small animals and

gather fruit.

What might otherwise be a tedious walk

along an uneven trail is brought to life

by the excitement derived from the vast

knowledge shown by the Batwa guides

about their descendants who for decades

lived as nomadic hunter-gatherers. Clad

in unique attire made of fine animal

skins and armed with bows and arrows,

the guides eloquently take the visitors

through the brief history of the Batwa

legacy and how they ended up as hunter-

gatherers while their neighbours became

settled cultivators and herdsmen.

At the start of the walk, at the Mhavura

trail head, the guides observe the old

ritual observed of prostrating themselves

by ancient rocks and praying to the forest

gods for protection from wild animals, for

a bumper harvest and for being able to

keep on track of the forest trails.

The region’s 1,500 Batwa people maintain

that their ancestors used to live in harmony

with forest animals such as snakes, gorillas

and bushbucks, although some creatures

were a source of their food.

Dwelling places

Batwa guides have a wealth of knowl-

edge about the medicinal values of

various trees and shrubs along the track,

of the grass-thatched huts with shrines in

their back yards, of tree branches where

children would shelter from marauding

animals as their parents went hunting

and fruit gathering, and of how to trace

Batwa guides have a wealth of knowledge about the medicinal values of various trees and shrubs along the track

bees to their hives in search of honey. The

guides also demonstrate how they used

to lay traps to catch animals for meat, to

carry out rituals to stave off ghosts and

the loss of their loved ones, and to weave

hand tools from creeping plants, as well

as manipulating hollow bamboo tubes for

collecting water, cooking meat and storage.

Many fibres in the forests were used as

ropes for carrying animals after hunting

as well as belts for the skin dresses worn

by men and women. Other plants were

ideal for making baskets, bags and mats,

explain the guides.

Nomadic life

In historical Batwa times, when there

was a death, the deceased would be

buried under the family hut and rituals

were performed before the whole family

moved away to save themselves from evil

spirits. After the burial, the hut above the

grave would be destroyed. They would

also use a plant called Munanira, believed

to stop the spirits. Thereafter, the family

would take a few portable articles and

migrate to another past of the vast forest.

Batwa Trail //

© G

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This rock cave with its various compart-

ments was used as a council chamber,

as a palace for the Batwa king and as a

hideout for Batwa warriors, who would

raid neighbouring communities for food

and other items and take shelter in the

cave. It was also used as a training ground

for young men so that they could defend

their people against enemy attack.

Lit by grass torches, the cave also served

as a theatre, where the king and the visi-

tors would be entertained with cultural

performances, as well as being used as

a law-making chamber and for cooking.

The cave is called Garama, which conveys

the meaning of lying on one’s back and

relaxing after a great meal.

Enterprise

As the Batwa people have recently begun

to conduct visitors along the trail, the

new tourism enterprise has restored their

cultural pride, giving them an incentive as

local allies in conservation. The Uganda

Wildlife Authority and other trail develop-

ment partners are delighted that this new

experience offers an authentic opportu-

nity to complement the other activities in

the Mgahinga Gorilla National Park such

as gorilla tracking, volcano hiking and

walking safaris to see golden monkeys.

The exciting narratives and demonstra-

tions are sure to make visitors feel as

if they had walked back into ancient

African times, leaving them fascinated

and with a deeper appreciation of a

culture dating back thousands of years.

Plan your visit to the Batwa Trail in the south-

east of Uganda and ask about the new

documentary DVD and book to take the

stories and traditional songs home with you.

Learn more at www.thebatwatrail.com

The trail has been made possible by

support from the Uganda Wildlife

Authority, the International Gorilla

Conservation Programme (IGCP), the

USAID-STAR (Sustainable Tourism in the

Albertine Rift) programme, the United

Organisation for Batwa Development

in Uganda (UOBDU), the Kisoro local

government and many others. © G

reat

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TANZANIA

KENYA

UGANDA

DAR ES SALAAM

NAIROBI

MTWARA

ZANZIBAR

UKUNDA

MOMBASA

VIPINGO

MALINDI

MWANZA LAMU

MASAI MARA

KISUMUENTEBBE

KAKAMEGA

LODWAR

JUBA

MERU

NANYUKIELDORET

KITALE

SOUTH SUDAN

KILIMANJARO

26 www.fl y540.com

Network //

THE FLY540

NETWORK oVEr 30 DEstiNatioNs throughout East aFrica

with MorE coMiNg VEry sooN

aFrica

BOOK ONLINE AT:

www.fly540.com

AFAARFFICACCSLO



TANZANIA

KENYA

UGANDA

DAR ES SALAAM

NAIROBI

MTWARA

ZANZIBAR

UKUNDA

MOMBASA

VIPINGO

MALINDI

MWANZA LAMU

MASAI MARA

KISUMUENTEBBE

KAKAMEGA

LODWAR

JUBA

MERU

NANYUKIELDORET

KITALE

SOUTH SUDAN

KILIMANJARO


www.fly540.com28

FEisty aND couragEous

‘mad’ woman

who rEFusED to BE BowEDBy denis Gathanju

wangari Maathaiis was a bridge linking the poor village women with whom

she planted trees to the high and mighty who governed the corporate world and the political class that sought her counsel. Wherever she went, she was fêted by world leaders for her brilliance, intellect and feisty dedication to humanity.

Known for her resolve, courage and

passion in the defence of human rights

and the environment, her story is about

how a little-known but tough village girl

from rural Kenya went on to move and

change the world.

In her life, she rallied the world to a

common cause. Her powerful words gave

the poor communities for whom she

fought so passionately a roaring voice

that no amount of police brutality could

silence. She unified Kenyans against an

oppressive and dictatorial government

as much as she unified the world against

the negative effects of climate change.

She was relentless in her fight for human-

ity; she was fearless in her efforts on

behalf of political prisoners; she poked

the eye of a political dictator; she waged

a bitter war with political sycophants;

and, most of all, she remained unbowed

in her quest to protect the environment,

no matter the cost. She truly was a

fighter.

On the night of 25 September, however,

one of Kenya’s finest and most critical

thinkers – and arguably one of the most

recognised women in the world – lost

a natural battle. As she had unified the

world in her life so the world was unified

by her death.

News of her demise was met with an

outpouring sympathy, grief and disbelief

across the world as we all mourned the

passing of an environmental champion

and a defiant crusader for human rights.

News of her demise hit global headlines;

from cable networks and radio stations to

social network sites and blogs to village

whispers across the world.

the ‘mad’ woman

I first ‘met’ the late Professor Maathai in

the 1990s. I was barely in my teens when

the exploits of the ‘mad’ woman caught

my attention. I was still at school and had

known only one president, who ruled this

country with an iron fist. My pals and I

would whisper the name of the president

for fear of landing ourselves into trouble.

But the indefatigable Wangari Maathai

took on the government of the day with

more zeal, determination and bravery

than any other woman I can think of.

I remember her chants for the release

of political prisoners at Uhuru Park. The

police would raid them and clobber them

senseless for demanding the release of

such political prisoners as Koigi Wamwere

and Rumba Kinuthia.

As if that were not enough trouble, she

took on the government of President

Moi with equal energy when the then

ruling party, the Kenya African National

Union (KANU), announced that it would

construct a 60-storey building costing

US$200 million on one of Nairobi’s green-

est patches of land, Uhuru Park.

Her protests were met with a triple dose

of political disgust and police brutality

that was unleashed upon her and her

fellow protesters. She was branded a


// Wangari Maathaiis

29

her powerful words gave the poor communities for whom she fought so passionately a roaring voice that no amount of police brutality could silence.

http://www.miainternational.co.ke

http://www.khalifasuites.com

rogue, divorced woman who had nothing

serious to do apart from make trouble for

everyone. She took her verbal war with

the administration to the international

media because the local media were too

intimidated to cover her fight to save

Uhuru Park.

Wangari Maathai lambasted foreign

governments for their continued support

of a dictatorial government that oppressed

its people and was on the way to destroy-

ing one of the greenest spots in the heart

of the city. “No one would touch Central

Park in New York City,” she protested.

autocratic

While many people silently supported her

cause, few had the courage to speak out

against the autocratic government of the

day. The consequences were too fright-

ening for many to contemplate; police

brutality was too much for many to handle;

and the war of words with a powerful and

mean administration sent shock waves

down the spines of many who contem-

plated taking to the streets to protest

against the construction of a new head-

quarters by a self-serving political party.

The beauty of it all is that Wangari

Maathai won the battle to save Uhuru

Park. After a protracted war of words

with politicians and political sycophants

and street fights with the brutal police,

victory went to the woman who had

been branded by many of the political

class as ‘a mad woman with cockroaches

in her head’.

As if that was not enough, the govern-

ment had plans to destroy part of Karura

Forest and sell land to wealthy develop-

ers and politically correct individuals

to build luxury homes. When Wangari

Maathai got wind of this, she led a team

of environmental activists, some drawn

from the Green Belt Movement – an

NGO she had helped set up to campaign

for conservation – to protest against the

forest excision.

courageous

As expected, her protests were met

with brutality. I remember television

images showing a wounded but fuming

and courageous Wangari Maathai. She

had bloodstains on her clothes and she


// Wangari Maathaiis

while many people silently supported her cause, few had

the courage to speak out against the autocratic government of the day

http://www.magnum-carallied.co.ke

http://www.discoverwatamu.com

http://www.funzihouse.com

showed the head wounds where the

police had rained blows and pulled out

her hair.

accolades and awards

Even though she won yet another battle

with the government, Wangari Maathai

took her fi ght to international level. She

preached environmental conservation and

demonstrated how environmental degra-

dation and global warming were linked

to human strife and threats to peace and

development the world over.

Wangari Maathai went on to win many

accolades and awards, most notably the

Nobel Peace Prize in 2004. This marked

a critical moment not only in her life but

for the entire world – a wake-up call to

everyone about the tangible connection

between dwindling natural resources and

global peace.

It is often said that prophets are never

welcome in their own land and this was

true of Wangari Maathai. But the girl

from Tetu was determined to ensure that

everyone played their part in environmen-

tal conservation.

Truly, Wangari Maathai was an extraor-

dinary woman; the village girl who

changed the world; the woman who

dared a brutal government; the woman

who hugged a tree and ended up

hugging the whole planet.

Wangari Maathai, we celebrate you. Your

spirit lives forever and the world is poorer

without you. Rest in peace.


1940 Wangari Muta Maathai is born in Nyeri

1964 Degree from Mount St Scholastica College, USA

1966 M.Sc. from University of Pittsburg

1969 Marries Mwangi Maathai

1971 Ph.D. from University of Nairobi

1976 Chair of Department of Veterinary Anatomy at Nairobi University

1979 Wangari and Mwangi divorce

1983 Woman of the Year Award

1984 Right Livelihood Award

1987 Global 500 Roll of Honour Award

1989 Leads protests against plans to build 60-storey complex at Uhuru Park, Nairobi

1994 Order of the Golden Ark Award

1995 International Women’s Hall of Fame

1997 Named among 100 people in the world who have made a differ-ence to the environment

2001 Juliet Hollister Award

2002 Elected to represent Tetu Constituency in the Kenyan Parliament

2003 President Kibaki appoints her Assistant Minister, Ministry ofEnvironment

2004 J. Sterling Morton Award

2004 Nobel Peace Prize for her efforts in conserving forests.

2005 Named by ‘Time’ magazine as one of 100 Most Powerful Women in the World

2005 Named by ‘Time’ as one of 100 Most Infl uential People in the World

2007 World Citizenship Award

2011 The Nichols-Chancellor’s Medal from Vanderbilt University

2011 On 25 September Wangari loses her battle with ovarian cancer at the Nairobi Hospital.

wanGaRI maaTHaI a CELEBRaTIon oF LIFE

www.fl y540.com34

OL PEJETA: THE HOUSE

THAT ADNAN

BUILTBy Gary Gimson

BOOK ONLINE AT:

www.fly540.com

AFAARFFICACCSLO


FLY540 FLY TO NANYUKI TWICE-WEEKLY (Friday and Sunday)

“Who’s Adnan Khashoggi?” someone asked in

our Nairobi offi ce when I mentioned his name.

“You’ve never heard of Adnan Khashoggi?”

I replied in total astonishment.

“No, who is he?” was the response.

Well, for those who don’t know – and

this could be a generational thing –

Adnan Khashoggi was a Saudi Arabian

billionaire ‘Mr Fix-It’ arms dealer and

celebrity who was rarely out of the

newspapers, often for the wrong reasons,

in the 1970s and 1980s. His fl amboy-

ant lifestyle as part of the international

jet set, his tirelessly complicated private

life and his headline-grabbing and often

murky business dealings made him a

journalists’ dream.

Unfortunately and spectacularly,

Khashoggi’s business activities took a

nose dive in the early 1990s as a specula-

tive deal in Salt Lake City turned sour and

since then we have heard little of him or

his equally well-known British-born wife,

Soraya. Today he lives in Monte Carlo and

the two have long since divorced.

Notoriety

So what has all this to do with East

Africa? At the height of his notoriety and

fi nancial powers, Khashoggi fell in love

with Kenya and he has left a legacy that

the rest of us can now enjoy. This legacy

is Ol Pejeta House, set in the 90,000 acre

Ol Pejeta Conservancy, just 30 minutes

from Nanyuki.

Having amassed great riches, Khashoggi

bought the Ol Pejeta estate from the

Delamere family in the 1970s and set

about creating his own African idyll,

transforming the land from a commercial

farm into a private game reserve and

building Ol Pejeta House. This tranquil

haven – with its own airstrip, naturally –

was in vivid contrast with the wild parties

he was said to hold at his properties in

Marbella and elsewhere.

On and off, Khashoggi lived in the house

for nearly 20 years. But after his fall from

fi nancial grace, the Lonrho group took over

Ol Pejeta and later sold on the property,

along with nearby Sweetwaters Tented

Camp. Today it is run by Serena Hotels.

Admirably, and perhaps surprisingly, Serena

has resisted the temptation to update the

property’s original 1970s style and ambi-

ence and Ol Pejeta remains, in essence, a

monument to the Saudi billionaire.

So what to expect from a visit to this

iconic property? There are only six rooms:

Khashoggi’s vast bedroom, with Soraya’s

only slightly less opulent quarters above;

a cosy double and a twin across the hall;

and, set apart, a two-room guest cottage

sharing a common lounge. Guests who

book the master bedroom can sleep in

the same room with the same furnish-

ings and the same view across a private

pool as Khashoggi must have done as he

conceived the next deal from his home in

the bush.

Terrace

Breakfast is taken on the small terrace

and dinner in the architecturally disap-

pointing dining room. Drinks are served

in a ‘secret bar’ hidden away to one side

of the hall. Equally bizarrely, Khashoggi

also built a secret exit to Soraya’s

bedroom that allows the occupant to

escape through a wardrobe door and

onto the landing.

The house looks over splendid and well-

tended gardens, while beyond is the

property’s own waterhole, which attracts

wildlife each evening, to the delight of guests.

The conversancy itself is especially rich in

game. In addition to the Big Five, it contains

both black and white rhino as well as a

chimpanzee sanctuary. Not many parks in

Kenya can match this variety, including all

three big cats – lion, leopard and cheetah.

I am sure that, having spent so much

effort and money creating it, Adnan

Khashoggi must be pleased that, under

Serena’s management, the house is in

good hands and visitors still take pleasure

in coming to stay at Ol Pejeta.


// Ol Pejeta

35

Khashoggi bought the Ol Pejeta estate from the Delamere family in the 1970s and set about creating his own African idyll

FLY540

Travel informaTion for easT africa

www.fly540.com

Information //

Tanzanian visas

Ugandan visas

South Sudan visasVisa information

36

Most nationals require visas to enter East Africa. Citizens from the five East African states require no visas while those from the Common Market of East and Southern Africa (COMESA) member states have relaxed entry requirements into East Africa.

However, East African member states have their own visa requirements for various nationals.

All foreigners from non-Commonwealth countries are

required to have a valid visa unless their countries have

agreements with Tanzania under which the visa require-

ment is waived.

Exemptions: Citizens of Commonwealth countries are

not required to obtain visas unless they are citizens of the

United Kingdom, Canada, Nigeria, India, Pakistan, South

Africa, New Zealand or Australia.

Visa-issuing Stations and Authorities

Tanzanian visas are issued by the following:

• TheofficeoftheDirectorofImmigrationServices,Dar

es Salaam, and the office of the Principal Immigration

Officer, Zanzibar.

• EntrypointstotheUnitedRepublicofTanzania:principally

Namanga, Tunduma, Sirari, Horohoro, Kigoma Port, Dar

es Salaam International Airport, Kilimanjaro International

Airport, Zanzibar Harbour and Zanzibar Airport.

• Anyothergazettedentrypoint.

• FromTanzaniaHighCommissionsorembassiesabroad.For

more information on Tanzanian diplomatic missions visit:

www.tanzania.go.tz/tanzaniaembassiesabroad.htm

The easiest way of getting a visa to Uganda is by purchasing it

at the entry point, Entebbe Airport or any border station. This

is very possible for tourists coming into Uganda. All you need

to do is pay US$50, fill in the application form with passport

dates and information. The visa issued is valid for 90 days.

You can also get a visa by applying online if you a citizen of

thefollowingcountries,USA,UK,SouthAfrica,Russia,Japan,

Italy, India, Germany, France, Denmark, China, Canada, and

Belgium. All you need to do is to download the application

from the embassy website of your country of origin.

Any visitor going to South Sudan through Khartoum requires a

valid visa. Visas are issued through the South Sudan Embassy.

TheRepublicofSouthSudanhasmissionsinKenya,Egypt,

Eritrea,Ethiopia,Uganda,theDemocraticRepublicofthe

Congo(DRC),Zimbabwe,Nigeria,SouthAfrica,Australia,

Norway, Belgium, the UK, Germany, France, Turkey, Libya,

China, India, Italy, Canada and the USA.

Immigration regulations stipulate that anyone going to South

Sudan and wishing to travel outside of Khartoum needs a

travel permit from the Government of South Sudan.

Those travelling to South Sudan from Kenya, should visit the South Sudan Embassy in Kenya.

Requirements:

• Allapplicantstolaunchtheirvisasinperson

• Passportmustbevalidforatleastsixmonthandpresentedon submission of application

• Tworecentcolourpassport-sizephotos

• Yellowfevervaccinationcard

• Letterofinvitationandintent

Standard Visa fees payable by balance transfer to:

• GovernmentofSouthSudanSpecialPermitAccount

• Bank:KenyaCommercialBank;SaritCentreBranch

• A/CNo.402004247

Fees:

• Multipleentry:$250(sixmonths)/$400(oneyear)

• SingleentryforcountrieswithcommonboarderwithSouthSudan:$50

• SingleentryforotherAfricancountries:$100

• SingleentryforEuropeanandAmerciancitizens:$100

Processing period: Two working days

FL FFYLL540VISASS

INFNNORMRR AMM TA ION


Health

37

Kenyan visasVisas are required for most nationals and cost US$50. A visa

can be obtained on entry, however we recommended one be

obtained before arrival to avoid airport lengthy queues. Visa

Application Forms are available online.

A visa is required by all visitors travelling to Kenya with the

exception of those holding a re-entry pass to Kenya and

citizens of Ethiopia, San Marino, Turkey and Uruguay.

Note that the reciprocal visa abolition agreements with

Germany, Italy, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Spain,

andRepublicofIrelandnolongerapplyandnationalsof

these countries now require a Visa.

KENYA VISA REQUIREMENTS

• Validpassportwithsufficientnumberofunusedpagesfor

endorsements abroad. Passport must be signed and valid

for at least six months.

• Visaapplicationformdulycompletedandsignedbythe

applicant.

• Tworecentpassportsizephotographsattachedtothe

application form.

• Validroundtripticketoraletterfromyourtravelagent

certifying that the applicant holds prepaid arrangements.

• Aself-addressedstampedenvelopeforexpressmail,

courier, registered mail, etc., if the visa is urgently

required. Metered stamps are not acceptable.

• Homeandworktelephonenumbers.

Please fi ll out the form correctly and enclose the photographs

and payment to avoid delay and disappointment.

Standard Visa fees payable by cash to the Embassy of Kenya.

ViSa FEES CHaRGES:

Multiple entry: $100

Single entry: $50

Transit Visa: $20

1. Please note that all children below 16 yrs are not charged visa fees

2. The reduced visa fees were effected on 1st march 2009, as directive from

ministry of tourism on attracting more tourists in to the country.

3. Passengers can pay in US dollar, British pounds, Euro or Swiss franc.

For more information and to download a Kenya visa application form visit:

http://www.immigration.go.ke/index.php

Vaccination requirements for international travellers

• Nocholeravaccinationcertificatesarerequiredoftravellerscomingfromallovertheworld.

• Onlyvalidyellowfevervaccinationcertificatesarerequiredofalltravellersoveroneyearold,arrivingfromyellowfeverinfected

countries mainly in central and West Africa, South and Central America South East Asia, India, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh.

• Vaccinationforinternationaltravellersareobtainablefromallinternationalairandseaports,cityandmajormunicipalcouncils

NB: Make sure you get your yellow fever shot in good time since the yellow fever certifi cate is valid for travel use 10 days after vaccination.

FL FFYLL540VISASS

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AVV

CACINANN TA ION INFNN O

RMRRAA

MMTAIOON

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Information //

By bus

By 4x4 and hire car By train

38

Kenya has a network of long-distance bus services on which speed is limited to 80 kph. Within Nairobi, buses are run by private companies such as Citi Hoppa, whose green-and-yellow buses offer cheap transport (usually about US$0.66) and provide regular serv-ices between the city centre and the suburbs. With seating for 20 to 35 passengers (no standing passengers allowed by law), they are a cleaner and less hectic mode of transport than matatus, but they serve many of the same routes.

You can hire a 4x4 and drive through Kenya, although you need to be proficient at handling such a vehicle.

Most international rental agencies have offices in Nairobi and Mombasa. They offer affordable and reliable cars with a full back-up network. Visitors can also rent cheaper cars from local distributors who are mostly reliable. In addition, there are car rental agencies in Kampala and Dar es Salaam.

The Kenya-Uganda railway starts in Mombasa and goes via Nairobi to Kampala, Uganda. This train service is the famous ‘Lunatic Express’ that featured in the Michael Douglas film ‘The Ghost and the Darkness’.

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Hand luggage

39

By matatuMatatus are privately run minibuses, typically for 14 or 25 passengers and operating over short and medium distances. Previously, the matatus were usually packed to well over capacity – with up to 25 people in a 14-seater vehicle – but in recent years there has been more government regulation and policing of matatus, especially in the larger cities, and now most of them have seatbelts and care is taken not to exceed the vehicle’s stated capacity.

Matatus offer a cheap and quick means of transport in all the major towns and many rural areas. The name matatu hails from the Kiswahili word for the number three – tatu – because some time ago the standard fare was three 10 cent coins.

Matatus have a yellow strip running around the vehicle with the route number on display

In Tanzania, public minibuses are known as daladala. Unlike in Nairobi, the minibuses in Dar es Salaam are packed and normally exceed their carrying capacity, especially in the morning and afternoon rush hours. The daladala have the fares displayed on their sides, however, making it easier for visitors to the city to avoid being overcharged.

Also popular in Dar es Salaam are three-wheel motorcycles known as bajaji. In Kenya, they are known as tuk tuks and are popular in the resort cities of Mombasa and Malindi.

In Kampala, the motorcycle taxis, known as boda boda, are the most popular mode of transport. They are not only cheap, but handy when you want to beat the heavy traffi c in Kampala during the rush hour.

The following may be carried in your hand luggage only if they are stored in containers up to 100 ml in size and placed in a transparent resealable plastic bag and thereafter screened separately from other items carried in the hand luggage. The capacity of the transparent plastic bag must not be greater than 1 litre.

Liquids, gels and aerosols include:

• Water and other drinks

• Syrups

• Creams, lotions and oils

• Perfumes and sprays

• Gels including hair and shower gels

• Pastes including Vaseline and eye shadow

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• Pressurised containers such as shaving foam and deodorants

• Other items with similar consistency.

The following items are allowed in hand luggage:

• Medicine needed during the fl ight

• Baby food needed during the fl ight.

You may buy any liquids beyond the security check points including duty free or in-fl ight items. Items purchased must be packed in security tamper evident bags and accompanied by proof of purchase when presenting them at the security checkpoint.

NOTE: Kenya Airports Authority implements all ICAO standards and

recommended practices on liquids, aerosols and gels.

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40 www.fly540.com

By Roselyne Omondi-Ogaoin and aROund Kampalaattractions

The pace of life slows down the minute you cross the border into Uganda, which makes this

country – with so many attractions only an hour or less from the capital, Kampala – an ideal place for a family holiday. Here are seven locations guaranteed to awe you:

1 Speke Resort Munyonyo

AtriptoSpekeResortMunyonyoisa

‘must’ for all lovers of water sports. You

can hire a motor boat at the resort’s

marine centre, Speke Marina, and ride to

Ggaba Beach, about 10 minutes away, or

all the way to Bulago Island, about 20 km

from Kampala.

If adrenalin rushes are not for you,

why not go for a relaxing swim in the

Olympic-sized outdoor pool. Take time

out to read your favourite novel, enjoy a

steam bath or sauna.

You could also go riding at the resort’s

equestrian centre, or walk across the well

manicured lawns, enjoying the sounds of

birdsong and the miniature waterfall.

2 Bulago Island

This privately owned luxury island can be

reached by motor boat, hired from Speke

Marina, or by road. Boat rides cost about

UGX 130,000 for a round trip. Once

there you can go fishing, windsurfing or

hiking – or observe some of the island’s

300-plus species of fascinating birdlife.

Spend a night in one of the island’s

tastefully furnished family villas. Here, the

tranquil atmosphere, with no mosqui-

toes, will leave you feeling relaxed.

3 Ggaba Beach

This is one of the busiest fish landing sites

in Kampala. Visit the beach early in the

day to watch fishermen offloading their

catch into the waiting hands of scores

of fishmongers who auction it to eager

buyers.

Later, you could walk on the beach or

take a short boat trip on the lake to

admire the view.

There are many food vendors offering

a huge variety of local dishes including

(naturally)freshfishaswellascassava,

plantain and matooke, a local delicacy

made of steamed bananas.

4 Jinja

Onceathrivingindustrialtown,Jinja

is now a shadow of its vibrant past. Its

locationontheRiverNilemakesupfor

lost glories, however, and no visit here is

complete without a trip to the source of

the Nile and to Bujagali Falls.

The source of the Nile is marked by the

RipponFalls.Youcanhireaboatfor

aboutUGX40,000anddisembarkfive

minutes later on a tiny rocky island.

Here, you can see the ripples at the point

where Lake Victoria ends and the Nile

begins to flow.

Bujagali, at the opposite end of the

town, is the site of amazing waterfalls


A trip to Speke Resort Munyonyo is a ‘must’ for all lovers of water sports

// Day Trips

Gorilla sculpture, Garden City

http://www.kivimilimanihotel.com

http://www.landmarine.com

that will reward your walk down some

steep slopes. You may even spot the odd

fellow riding the fast-moving water on a

tiny yellow jerrycan. Hire a quad bike and

have a blast along the rough roads of the

area. Or head to Adrift for a hair-raising

bungee jump.

DropinatJinjaNileResort,oneofthe

besthotelsinJinja.Thehotelopensits

doors to non-residents on Christmas

Day, offering a memorable champagne

breakfast and Christmas lunch plus live

entertainment from local bands and

dance troupes such as Uganda’s famous

Ndere Troupe.

A visit to Gately Inn, set in a quiet garden

and famous for its chocolate cake and

other sweet dishes, could be the perfect

way to end your day.

5 Entebbe Wildlife Centre

Compensate for your inability to go on

safari to one of Uganda’s top national

parks, Queen Elizabeth or Murchison

Falls, with a trip to Entebbe Wildlife

Centre, only 15 minutes from Entebbe.

Here, on a two-hour trail, you can spot

a great variety of animals and birds

including lions, rhinos, chimpanzees and

pythons as well as crested cranes and

ostriches.

Visit nearby Entebbe Botanical Gardens

to see some of Uganda’s finest butterfly

species and natural floral displays.

6 Garden City

Many new malls are being built in the city

centre, but none has more to offer than

Kampala’s hippest shopping complex,

Garden City. Here, you can visit boutiques

and craft shops, enjoy a variety of local

and oriental cuisine, drink a cup of

freshly brewed Ugandan coffee at Café

Pap, watch a blockbuster movie or leaf

through some of the latest best-sellers at

the country’s top bookstore, Aristoc. Chil-

dren can spend time in the play centre,

go bowling or ice-skating at Alleyga-

tors – very popular with teenagers – or

jump on a trampoline at the Spur. Other

attractions in the mall include the 7 Hills

RevolvingRestaurant.

Why not complete the day with a drive

around the nearby Makerere University,

where Kenya’s president, Mwai Kibaki,

was a student. Alternatively, visit Ndere

Cultural Centre for a lively show of

cultural dances from across Uganda and

a taste of Ugandan food. Highlight of the

evening is the stunt-filled Acholi dance.

7 Mabira Forest

A visit to Mabira, Uganda’s largest tropi-

cal rain forest, gives you a chance to relax

in a natural environment and observe the

bush babies, monkeys, native birds and

reptiles. You can camp, bike, swim or

walk in the forest. If you are adventurous

you can order meals on the stick from

foodvendorsontheKampala-JinjaRoad.

Better still, enjoy home-made delicacies

atMabiraRainForestLodge.

Children can spend time in the play centre, go bowling or ice-skating at Alleygators – popular with teenagers

Rita, 9, at the end of a horse-riding session at Speke Resort


// Day Trips

44 www.fly540.com

Type: Twin-engine turboprop aeroplane

Number in service: One

Capacity per aircraft: 19 passengers

THE FLY540 AIRCRAFT FLEET

Hawker BeechcraftAirliner B1900C

Type: Twin-turboprop, short-haul regional airliner

Number in service: Two


ATR 42-320Type: Twin-engine regional jet

Number in service: Three


Canadair CL-600-2B19 Regional Jet


// Fleet

Type: Turboprop cargo airliner


Capacity per aircraft: 1336 x 210 x 190 cargo hold

Fokker F27

Type: Twin-engined, medium range, turboprop airliner

Number in service: Three


Bombardier Dash 8 102 Series

Type: Single turboprop engine, fixed-gear short-haul regional airliner



Cessna Caravan C208

Type: Twin-engine turboprop short-haul regional airliner

Number in service: Two


ATR 72-500

Type: Stretched version of the basic Caravan. Single turboprop engine, fixed-gear short-haul regional airliner



208B Grand Caravan

Type: Short range jet airliner



Fokker F28

Type: Twin-engine, single-aisle jet airliner



DC-9

How many words can you make using all

or some of the letters in the word

The words have to be at least THREE letters long. And you can’t use

the letter twice in the same word, unless the letter appears twice

in the word. So, for example, you can’t make the word ‘motto’

because there is only one T in astronomical but you can make the

word ‘moon’ because there are two Os. Ready, steady, go!

“ENCYCLOPEDIA”?“ENCYCLOPEDIA”?“ENCYCLOPEDIA”?“ENCYCLOPEDIA”?“ENCYCLOPEDIA”?“ENCYCLOPEDIA”?“ENCYCLOPEDIA”?“ENCYCLOPEDIA”?“ENCYCLOPEDIA”?

Q: What do you get if you cross

a centipede and a parrot?

a: A walkie-talkie!

Q: Where do cows go

on holiday?

a: Moo York!

Q: What do you call a

sleeping bull?

a: A bulldozer!CORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERKids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’CORNERCORNERCORNERKids’CORNERCORNERCORNERKids’CORNERCORNERCORNERKids’CORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERKids’CORNERCORNERCORNERKids’CORNERCORNERCORNERKids’CORNERCORNERCORNERKids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’Kids’CORNERCORNERCORNERKids’CORNERCORNERCORNERKids’CORNERCORNERCORNERKids’CORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERKids’CORNERCORNERCORNERKids’CORNERCORNERCORNERKids’CORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERCORNERKids’CORNERCORNERCORNERKids’CORNERCORNERCORNERKids’CORNERCORNERCORNERKids’Kids’Kids’

cccOOOcOcccOcOcOcccOc LLLOOOLOLLLOLOLOLLLOL UUUR R R MMMEEEEEE IIINNN.........

JOke time!JOke time!JOke time!

// Kids’ corner

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I have a bed but I never lie.

What am I?

Riddle Answer: A river

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BANANA - HAMBURGER - ICECREAM

JELLY - RICE - PIZZA - ORANGE

PASTA - AVOCADO - ONION

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Heritage Hotels believes in the future of our youngsters. That is why we have highly trained and dedicated naturalists to educate and entertain your children while on safari. There is always something new for the youngsters to learn or explore at the Heritage camp or lodge on your African safari.

Our clubs – Adventurers for children aged four to 12 and Young Rangers for 13 to 17-year-olds – are free at Mara Intrepids, Samburu Intrepids, Great Rift Valley Lodge & Golf Resort, Voyagers Beach Resort and Voyagers Ziwani Tsavo.

Learn more at www.heritage-eastafrica.com/kids-teens

48 www.fl y540.com

Contact us //

FIVE FORTY AFRICA - HEAD OFFICERiversideGreenSuites,PalmSuiteRiversideDrivePO Box 10293-00100Nairobi, KenyaTel: +254 (0)20 445 2391/5Fax/Tel: +254 (0)20 445 2396Sales: Tel: +254 (0)737 540 540Email:[email protected]

FIVE FORTY CALL CENTREABC Place, off Waiyaki WayTel: +254 (0)20 445 3252/6Cell: +254 (0)722 540 540; (0)733 540 540Fax: +254 (0)20 445 3257

LAICO REGENCY - 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Mezz. fl oor, Shopping ArcadeTel: +254 (0)20 224 3211/3/4Cell: +254 727 540 540; (0)737 540 540Fax: +254 (0)20 224 3219

JOMO KENYATTA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT - 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICEUnit3(DomesticDepartures)Tel: +254 (0)20 827 523Tel: +254 20 827 366Cell: +254 727 532 273

Unit1(InternationalDepartures)Tel: +254 (0)20 827 521

MOMBASA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICEGround Floor, Mombasa Trade Centre NkrumahRoadTel: +254 (0)41 231 9078/9Mob: +254 (0)728 540 540; (0)710 540 540

Moi International Airport, MombasaTel: +254 (0)41 343 4821Tel: +254 (0)32 540 540; (0)722 555 730

540 TANZANIADAR ES SALAAM 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICEPlotno.767/39,SamoraAvenueTel: +255 (0)22 212 5912/3Sales: Tel: +255 752 540 540; (0)788 540 540Cell: +255 754 292 675; (0)784 292 675

ARUSHA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICEBlue Plaza Building, Indian StreetTel: +255 (0)27 254 5211Tel: +255 (0)784 410 233

KILIMANJARO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTTel:+255 (0)756 540 540Tel: +255 (0)27 255 4282

ZANZIBAR 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICECine Afrique Building, Stone TownTel: +255 (0)24 223 5110Tel: +255 (0)762 540 540

UGANDA 540 (U) LTDKAMPALA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE1st Floor, Oasis Mall Tel: +256 (0)414 346 915/999Tel: +256 (0)312 540 540Sales: Tel: +256 (0)712 540 540; (0)776 540 540

ENTEBBE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICETel: +256 (0)314 540 540Tel: +256 (0)315 540 540Sales: Tel: +256 (0)713 540 540

UKUNDA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS BarclaysCentre,DianiRoadTel: +254 (0)20 354 6532 Tel: +254 (0)726 453 246 LAMU - NORTH COAST TRAVEL SERVICETel: +254 (0)42 213 0312Tel: +254 (0)42 463 2054Tel: +254 (0)725 942 444Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] KITALE TICKETING & RESERVATIONSTerminal Building, Kitale AirstripTel: +254 (0)770 639 429Tel: +254 (0)724 457 374Tel: +254 (0)735 540 547 ELDORET 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONSTel: +254 (0)53 203 3570/80 ELDORET INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 540Ticketing&ReservationsOfficeTel: +254 (0)53 203 0814Tel: +254 (0)53 206 3823 ext 658 KAKAMEGA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONSHolden Mall - above Nakumatt SupermarketTel: +254 (0)734 540 550Tel: +254 (0)711 908 330 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS WILSON AIRPORT : 540 SAFARI CIRCUIT SALESGround Floor, Langata House Tel: +254 (0)20 254 0206Tel: +254 (0)729 540 540Tel: +254 (0)735 540 540

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540 magazine - issue 3

Documents

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pesa service

rising star

mount kenya region16

imani childrens home

new bombardier crj

important new destination