520 engine 2

30
Burning oil (1) Rings not correctly seated to cylinder wall Give sufficient time for rings to seat Replace li necessary (2) Piston rings worn excessively or stuck in ring grooves Replace ring (3) Excessive clearance between piston and cylinder wall due to wear or improper fitting Fit new pistons (4) Cylinder walls, scored, tapered or out of round Recondition cylinders and fit new pistons (5) Piston ring oil return holes clogged with carbon Replace rings (6) Piston rings broken Replace rings (7) Valve stem oil seals missing or leaking Replace seals, check for sealing Leaking oil (1) Rocker arm cover gasket or tightening tap- pet cover damaged or loose Tighten covers or replace gasket (2) Oil pan drain plug loose Tighten drain plug (3) Oil pan retainer bolts loose Tighten oil pan bolts (4) Oil pan gasket damaged Replace gasket (5) Timing gear cover loose or gasket damaged Tighten cover bolts or replace gasket (6) Fuel pump loose or gasket damaged Tighten fuel pump bolts or replace gasket (7) Rear main bearing leaking oil into clutch housing or flywheel housing Adjust or replace main bearing or main bearing oil seal Ignition system improperly adjusted (1) Spark plug faulty Replace or clean, adjust and seat spark plugs (2) Distributor points not set correctly Set distributor points and timing engine (3) Ignition not properly timed Set ignition by the instruction under cor- rect specification of engine (1) Gas line partly plugged Clean gas lines (2) Dirt or water in carburetor Clean carburetor and fuel pump (3) Dirt in gasoline tank Clean the tank (4) Air leaks in gasoline line Check gasoline lines and tighten (5) Fuel pump not functioning properly Replace or repair fuel pump (1) Air cleaner dirty Clean air cleaner (2) Carburetor choke partly closed Adjust or replace choke mechanism (1) Lack of water Refill or replace (2) Fan belt loose Adjust or replace (3) Fan belt worn or oil soaked Replace belt (4) Water pump inoperative Replace water pump (5) Thermostat sticking closed Replace thermostat

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Burning oil

(1) Rings not correctly seated to cylinder wallGive sufficient time for rings to seatReplace li necessary

(2) Piston rings worn excessively or stuck inring grooves

Replace ring

(3) Excessive clearance between piston andcylinder wall due to wear or improperfitting

Fit new pistons

(4) Cylinder walls, scored, tapered or out ofround

Recondition cylinders and fit new pistons

(5) Piston ring oil return holes clogged withcarbon

Replace rings

(6) Piston rings brokenReplace rings

(7) Valve stem oil seals missing or leakingReplace seals, check for sealing

Leaking oil

(1) Rocker arm cover gasket or tightening tap-pet cover damaged or loose

Tighten covers or replace gasket

(2) Oil pan drain plug looseTighten drain plug

(3) Oil pan retainer bolts looseTighten oil pan bolts

(4) Oil pan gasket damagedReplace gasket

(5) Timing gear cover loose or gasket damagedTighten cover bolts or replace gasket

(6) Fuel pump loose or gasket damagedTighten fuel pump bolts or replace gasket

(7) Rear main bearing leaking oil into clutchhousing or flywheel housing

Adjust or replace main bearing or mainbearing oil seal

Ignition system improperly adjusted

(1) Spark plug faultyReplace or clean, adjust and seat sparkplugs

(2) Distributor points not set correctlySet distributor points and timing engine

(3) Ignition not properly timedSet ignition by the instruction under cor-rect specification of engine

(1) Gas line partly pluggedClean gas lines

(2) Dirt or water in carburetorClean carburetor and fuel pump

(3) Dirt in gasoline tankClean the tank

(4) Air leaks in gasoline lineCheck gasoline lines and tighten

(5) Fuel pump not functioning properlyReplace or repair fuel pump

(1) Air cleaner dirtyClean air cleaner

(2) Carburetor choke partly closedAdjust or replace choke mechanism

(1) Lack of waterRefill or replace

(2) Fan belt looseAdjust or replace

(3) Fan belt worn or oil soakedReplace belt

(4) Water pump inoperativeReplace water pump

(5) Thermostat sticking closedReplace thermostat

(6) Cooling system cloggedClean and reverse flush

(7) Incorrect ignition or valve timingRetime engine

(8) Improper grade and viscosity oil being usedChange to correct oil

(9) Fuel mixture too leanOverhaul or adjust carburetor

(10) Valve improperly adjustedAdjust valves

(11) Exhaust system partly restrictedClean or replace

Over cooling

Thermostat holding openReplace thermostat

Slow cranking

(1) Heavy engine oilChange to lighter oil

(2) Partially discharged batteryChange battery

(3) Faulty or under capacity batteryReplace battery

(4) Poor battery connectionsClean and tighten or replace connections

(5) Faulty starter switchReplace switch

(6) Faulty s14rting motor or starting switchRepair or Replace

Ignition troubles

(1) Distributor points burned or corrodedClean or replace points

(2) Points improperly adjustedReadjust points correctly

(3) Spark plugs i,mproperly gappedSet plug gap correctly0.7 - 0.8 mm (0.0275 - 0.0315 in.)

(4) Spark plug codes loose and correded indistributor cap

Clean code and cap terminals

(5) Loose connections in primary circuitTighten all connections in primary circuit

(6) Series resistance in condenser circuitClean all connections in condenser circuit

(7) Low capacity condenserInstall proper condenser

(1) Valves burnedGrind valves or change

(2) Valves holding openAdjust valves

(3) Leaking manifold gasketTighten manifold bolts or replace gasket

(4) Loose carburetor mountingTighten carburetor mounting bolts

(4) Faulty pistons, rings or cylinderSee "Lack of power"

(1) Choke not working properlyAdjust or repair choke mechanism

(2) Throttle not set properlySet throttle

(3) Carburetor dirty and passages restrictedOverhaul carburetor

(1) Loose wiring connectionsTighten all code connections

(2) Faulty wiringReplace faulty wiring

(3) Faulty spark plugsClean or replace and adjust plug gap

Experience has shown that it is much easierto remove the engine and transmission as asingle unit than to detach the engine by itself.

To remove the engine and transmissionupwards, proceed as follows;

Completely drain the cooling system and thetransmission, disconnect and remove thebattery and its supporting tray.

Remove the upper and lower radiator hosesby undoing the retaining clips.

Disconnect the capacitor lead at the dis-tributor, also the high tension and switch wiresat the coil.

Take off the dynamo lead and disconnect thestarter motor cable at the motor end.

Remove the oil gauge and water, temper-ature gauge leads from their terminals on theengine.

The throttle and choke controls must bedisconnected from, the carburetor. Disconnectthe fuel pipe from the fuel pump.

Next, remove the exhaust pipe from themanifold.

From below the vehicle, remove the gearchange selector rod from the lever on thetransmission casing.

Disconnect the earth strap from the startermotor. Remove the hand brake control rodsupporting from transmissiOn.

Disconnect the speed-meter cable from thetransmission. Uncouple the propeller shaftpinion franges at rear axle and draw the shaftout of the transmission.

To allow the engine and transmission to bedrawn forward, the radiator must be removedby undoing the four securing bolts.

Bolt engine frontsupport bracket

Washer lock----@ ~Bolt----~

BoltNut~'Washer lock~~ "-?

OPERATION WITH THE ENGINEREMOVED

Support enginemounting rear

Support enginemounting front

The following operations are best performedwith the engine removed from the car.

Although it may be found possible to carry

out certain attentions with the engine in position,it is more convenient to do the work on thebench.

Fig. 4 Removing Crank Gear, CamGear and Chain

Experience has shown that it is much easierto remove the engine and transmission as asingle unit than to detach the engine by itself.

To remove the engine and transmissionupwards, proceed as follows;

Completely drain the cooling system and thetransmission, disconnect and remove thebattery and its supporting tray.

Remove the upper and lower radiator hosesby undoing the retaining clips.

Disconnect the capacitor lead at the dis-tributor, also the high tension and switch wiresat the coil.

Take off the dynamo lead and disconnect thestarter motor cable at the motor end.

Remove the oil gauge and water, temper-ature gauge leads from their terminals on theengine.

The throttle and choke controls must bedisconnected from. the carburetor. Disconnectthe fuel pipe from the fuel pump.

Next, remove the exhaust pipe from themanifold.

From below the vehicle, remove the gearchange selector rod from the lever on thetransmission casing.

Disconnect the earth strap from the startermotor. Remove the hand brake control rodsupporting from transmissiOn.

Disconnect the speed-meter cable from thetransmission. Uncouple the propeller shaftpinion franges at rear axle and draw the shaftout of the transmission.

To allow the engine and transmission to bedrawn forward, the radiator must be removedby undoing the four securing bolts.

OPERATION WITH THE ENGINEREMOVED

Support enginemounting rear

Bolt engin e frontsupport bracket

Washer lock---@ ~Bolt----~ ~" l}racket engine

t' I mounting frontasher Bolt engine

lock mounting front

The following operations are best performedwith the engine removed from the car.

Although it may be found possible to carry

out certain attentions with the engine in position,it is more convenient to do the work on thebench.

Fig. 4 Removing Crank Gear, CamGear and Chain

Withdrawing CamshaftThe camshaft is positioned by a locating

plate held by three screws and shakeproofwashers. Note the position ofthe small lubricat-ing oil hole in the locating plate when replacingshould be to the right of the engine.

End play of 0.003-0.007 in. (0.076-0.178mm)is controlled by the thickness of the locatingplate, and can be checked with a dial indicatorset against the camshaft gear.

Before withdrawing the camshaft the dis-tributor and its driving spindle push rods, andtappet, will have to be removed. Remove theoil pump and its drive shaft, and take off thetiming cover and gears. The engine front

mounting plate is now accessible and may beremoved by withdrawing the setscrew and lock-ing plates. The dynamo swinging link must beremoved.

Take out the setscrews securing the cam-shaft locating plate, when the camshaft can bewithdrawn from the cylinder block.

Camshaft BearingsWhite metal bearings, with steel lining are

used for the camshaft. They can be taken outrenewed whennecessary ,it being usual to do thiswhen the cylinder block is being reconditioned.

The bearings can be removed by driftingthem out of their housings.

Whenfitting new bearings care must be takento line up the oil holes with the correspondingholes in the cylinder block.

Tap the'new bearings into position and reamthem to give a running clearance of0.001-0.002in. (0.025-0.015 mm).

Refitting the CamshaftThis is a reversal of the introductions for

removal. Care should be taken however, toalign and engage the drive pin in the rear end ofthe camshaft with the slot in the oil pump driveshaft.

Plug crankcaseoil galle.)' (brass

Set bushing,. Gaske{rt%~aft

to fix front Plate e~glne mounting)Plate~ mountlng, frontco.ver to Washer special Stud

cb:~~~er Washer plain jW'~irt~

waSher special v.-Washer lock j r

Nut t!llto fix front ~ ~ .pIate & cover to ,..,',',;:cylinder block '~:';

. Ii) 8

Felt ring, crank I'lf'" 1'1 l'i:I\l'"case front cover Bolt ~as4er -.W h 10 h1 IrOni nsinf

Washe~el~~J I "l;~k er } :unlln~ plltll

Ass'y cover, Sere,",: s~t bJo:tndfr

~ ~,.~ '11\\\

timingchain.casket timmg! WASIIER."pp", ,,",_iC' 1111;,,\.\11'case chaIn case Screw (to f G k t 'I """cover oil pan) IX as e 01 pan A

Seal oil, Ass'y plug~ telfront bearing cap drain

Stud (to fix fuel pumpto crank case')

s~~;;:~~::;G~::':.,::"",,, s:'~d;;::'~"mJD<,I.'" to fix gear box mounting plateASS'Y.COVER hud(lll1ddlrl ~ILdt, cyJ.nQrf STUD.cyl,n.lfl Washer Washer Ibloc~ hudf.houl lock

. j~SCRF.W"e'I. f::.~:::<l~.,

Q pl'tr to (f.n~ can

~

WASIlER""'l('l (I 9::REW .•• JMOllnlllll

• Washer lockPlug crank case oil

gallery (brass)Gasket rear plate

• Plate gearbox mounting

Ass'y block, cylinderwith plugs '

~cockdrain

Bearing crank shaft,half (standard size)

Seal Oil,' rear J1lbearing side /m

Bearing crank shafthalf (standard size)'

Washer thrust, bi-metal (upper)1--:' Cap main bearing, front

Washer lock/ Jto fix bearing c~ SOlt/4

Main Bearing CapsRemove the flywheel and clutch.Take off the timing chain, the sump and

strainer, and the engine rear· mounting plate.Unlock and remove the bolts securing the mainbearing caps to the cylinder block, also the twobolts securing the front cap to the engine frontbearer plate.

Note that a thrust washer is fitted on eachside of the centre main bearing to take thecrankshaft end thrust. These thrust washerseach consist of twosemicircular valves, one halfhaving a lug, which is located in a recess in thedetachable half of the bearing, the other beingplain.

When fitting new bearings no scraping isrequired as they are machined to give thecorrect running clearance of 0.0005-0. 002 in.(0.0127-0.0508 mm).

Ensure that the locating tangs are properlyengaged in their recesses.

Handle the new bearings carefully so as notto damage the fine surface finish.

Remove all traces of dirt and oil from thehousings and throughly dry them with a non-fluffy rag. Make sure that the oilways areciear. When fitting the bearing caps ensurethat they are replaced the right-way round.Each cap is punch marked, and the marks shouldrace the camshaft side of the engine.

DATSUN PICK-UP

Fig. 14 Measuring Crankshaft Pinand Journal

Never file the bearing caps to take upexcessive playas this will cause ovality.

Always cover the' bearing surfaces withengine-oil when they are replaced.

The main bearing caps are held in positionby setscrews and lock washers. . Pull the set-screws up tight with a torque wrench set to aloading of 75-80 Ib./ft. (10.36-11.05 kgm).

When refitting the main bearing caps tightenthe center one first, after each cap is tightenrotate the crankshaft to ascertain that itvolves freely.

If it is tight remove the last cap tightened,and examine the bearing and its seating for 'foreign matter.

Check the crankshaft end play by means of adial gauge. This should be 0.002 in. (0.051mm).

If a bearing has, "run", it is essential toclean out all oilways in the crankshaft andblock. Wash out the engine sump and thestrainer.

The oil pump should be dismantled andcleaned. Ensure that no particles of bearing,metal are left within the engine lubricationsystem.

IGNITION TIMING

TypeIgnition timing standard

Apparatus of automaticadvance

Advance startingvacuum pressure

Advance angle byvacuumpressure of 340 mm-Hg

Number of revolutionat the start ofadvance angle

Max. advance angle atcrankshaft

Rotating direction of camFiring orderPoint gap

Dowel angle'Contact arm spring

pressure. Condenser capacity

Hitachi D411-538° before top dead

center at 600 r. p.m.Governor type

11°_15° at2400 r.p.m.

Counterclockwise1-3.-4-2

0.45-0.55 mm(0.018-0.022 in.)

50°-55°0.5-0.6E!,kg

Inside the distriputor is a braker point asshown in Fig. 1. This braker makes and brakescontact several thousand t!mes in one minute.Each time this braker brakes contact, a sparkis generated in one of the spark plugs. There-fore, the maintenance of this braker must not betreated lightly. Also, because the time duringwhich the ignition coil current flows varies withthe gap between these braker points, see thatthis gap is maintained at the standard value,which is 0.45 mm. (0.018 to O.022 in~)

The braker points must be kept free ofgrease and oil. If the points should becomeburnt or blackened, they are cleaned with a finehoning stone or croucus .cloth after which theyshould be wiped clean with a piece of cloth whichhas been dampened with gasoline.

If the points are badly burnt, they must bereplaced. Braker points must always bereplaced as sets.

To adjust the breaker points, turn the enginecrankshaft with the. crank handle until thebreaker is fully open. Then loosen the breakerpoint fixing screw. Next, by turning the adjust-ing screw, move the plate until a feeler gaugeof 0.45 to" 0.55 mm (0.018 to 0.22 ins.)t.hickness slides easily between the breakerpoints. Then tighten the fixing screw securely.

Finally, check the gap once more; thenreinstall the rotor. The interior and exteriorof the cap is wiped clean with a soft, dry pieceof cloth, extra attention being paid to the areasbetween the terminals. Clean the centerelectrode on the inside of the cap also.

Whether or not the vacuum type timingadvancer is functioning properly, can bedetermined by the inspection pointer located atthe diaphragm if, as the engine is being run,this pointer moves when the engine speed issuddenly changed, the advancer is satisfactory .. .'.

Fig. 1 Adjusting the Point Gap

ADJUSTiNG THE "IGNITIONTIMING

The ignition timing is adjusted to 10 degreesbefore top dead center with the engine stoppedas shown in Fig. 2. With this adjustment, theautomatic timing advancer of the distributoradvances the ignition timing even further at thetime the engine starts to rotate, and the timingis maintained constantly at valves suitable forthe rotational speed.

With the engine stopped, adjust so that thedistributor breaker point just breaks when thepiston of the No. 1 cylinder is in its 10 degreesbefore top dead center position for compression.If a timing lamp is used, the standard ignitiontiming is 15 degress before top dead center atidling (600 rpm.) speed.

In the case of marks which are not evenlyspaced, pointers indicate 10 deg., 15 deg. and20 deg., positions before top dead center.Adjustment is made by the following procedure.

1. First adjust the distributor to the correct gapas described previously.

2. Turn the crankshaft gradually until the topdead center mark (Fig. 2) on the pulleyperifery coincides with the mark for 10 deg.before top dead center on the timing gearcover as the crankshaft approaches itspositions somewhat before that correspondingto the end of the compression stroke of theNo. 1 piston. Stop the crankshaft in thisposition. The compression stroke of theNo. 1 piston can be determined, if the sparkplug of the No.1 cylinder is removed, thehole plugged with a finger, and the crankshaftturn~d. With the crankshaftin the previously-mentioned position, the No. 1 piston is in itsposition of 10 deg. before top dead center ofcompression.

3. Next, inserting the driving shaft of thedistributor at an angle to the engine, engagethe gear on its lower and with the gear on thecamshaft. During this assembly place the

" '.,slot of the distributor drive of the upper end ofthe shaft somewhat to the left as shown in Fig.4. At this time, the smaller of the semicircleis placed toward the front.

4. Adjusting the direction of the rotor so that itengages the drive shaft slot, mount thedistributor to the engine. During thisassembly the directions. of the distributorand rotor must be as shown in Fig. 4. At thesame. time, the breaker must be in its positionwhen it is just begining to open. If theseconditions do not coincide, they are made todo so by slightly turning the distributor bodyonly. "To determine the position when the breakerpoint is just begining to open, turn on theignition key; hold the end of the No. 1 sparkcord ibout 1/4 inch away from the cylinderhead;' and ,turn the body until spark jumpsacross~ th.~:·gap.

The off-set slot position of the drive shaftwhen the No.1 piston is in its compression topdead center position is shown here.

5. Next put the distributor cap on and clamp itsecurely with the clip.

6. To the No.1 spark plug connect the cord fromthe terminal to which the arm of the rotor ispointing. Thereafter connect the terminalcords to their spark plugs in the counter-clockwise order so as to obtain 1-3-4-::,2 firingorder. '

7. Upon completion of the wlrmg, cover thedistributor with a rubber cap. The engineshould now start properly.

Ordinarily, the pointer ofthe octane selectoris set at its zero reading during the ignitiontiming adjustment. If the octane number of thefuel being used is low and the engine knocks,the pointer is adjusted to the right (R) to theoptimum advance angle.Conversely, if the octane number is high thepointer is adjusted to the left (A). One unit ofcalibration of the selector corresponds to 2deg.of the distributor angle and to 4 deg. of thecrankshaft angle.

When a timing lamp is used, the standardsetting is 15 dge. before top dead center withthe engine idling (600-620). In any case, theoptimum adjustment is that in which a slightknocking is heard when, with the car running atlow speed in "HIGH" (TOP) gear, accelerationis applied suddenly.

CD Distributo.r shaft® Distrib4t~r drive shaft® Distributor fixing plate

··"".*if ~ 'i~.~ _

','i~\V',>\, I;

ENGINE

Spring return~throttle 1ever

Ring-Estop~

Rodconnecting

Rod chokelever

Coverfloat

chamber

Ass'y float

t-@washer

Screw set £1· .ange

DATSUN PICK-UP

D2630A-5A Primary Secondary

Bore diameter 26 mm 30 mmVenturi diameter:

large 20 mm 27 mmsmall 8 8

Main jet #92 #140Main air bleed #60 #60Slow jet #48 #48Slow air bleed (first) #100 #120Slow air bleed (second) #240Emulsion hole #60 x 12 #60 x 20Slow economizer #145Power jet #40Power valve Begins to open when

I the primary throttle- valve is at 48°opening.Float level 21.5 mm below the

upper surface of thefloat chamber body.

The carburetor has the function of automizingthe fuel,\ mixing it in suitable ratio to air andsupplying the mixture to the engine.

It is therefore an important part which caninfluence the performance of the engine.

The carburetor is a highly efficient one oftwo barrel two step and down draft type haVingthe following special features.i-

T.

Construction and Operation1~

Pum p plunger. Pump valve kit

Pump strainermall venturi

Flange gasket

Secondary side Primary side

Power jet sheetgasketPower jet

Main Carburetting SystemThe fuel flowing out of the passage at the

bottom of the float chamber passes through theprimary main jet and then mixed with the aircoming from the main air bleed to be minutedrops and inject into the venturi through themain nozzle.

When the throttle valve is widely open andthe engine requires dense mixture gas, theacceleting pump opens its power valve, fromwhere the fuel also flows into the main system.

The power valve beings to operate when thethrottle valve opens 480 from full closed position.

Slow Speed SystemPassing through the main jet, the fuel

passage separate from main line and flowsthrough the slow jet, slow air bleed first, sloweconomizer, slow air bleed second and injectfrom the by-pass holes and idle holes.

Mechanical accelerating pump synchronizedwith the throttle valve is adapted. When throttlevalve is open, the piston rod is pushed up withthe linkage, which pushed up the piston throughthe dumper spring. When the piston is comingdown, the inlet check valve closes the out-letcheck valve opens and the fuel within the pump isblown out from the pump jet by the compresseddumper spring and hits against the side wall ofthe small venturi to be minute drops, compensat-ing trancient sparseness of the fuel. A jetting

amount of the fuel can be varied with the twoholes provided on the pump arm, that is, theinserting positions of the Connecting rod.

Starting SystemThe choke valve is provided with the spring

and installed eccentrically on the normalcarburetting device and synchronized with thethrottle valve. When the choke is fully closed,the throttle valve opens about 140 from a fullclose. This is the best condition to startoperation. The synchronization of the chokevalve and the throttle valve can be exactlymaintained often the engine has started firing.

DATSUN PICK-UP

Main Carburetting SystemSame as the normal carburetting function

the fuel flowing out of the passage at the bottomof the float chamber passes through thesecondary main jet and become minute dropsmixing with the air coming from the main airbleed and is blown into the venturi through themain nozzle.

Fig. 6 Nikki Carburetor

When the throttle valve of the normalcarburetor is widely opened and the engineproduces high power, the throttle valve of thepower carburetor begins to open by the syn-chroniz~d linkage.

However, at the top of the power carburetorthrottle valve is an auxiliary valve which is notopen at a slow speed with aheavy load due to theload of the counter weight connected to the valveshaft even when the throttle valve is open.When the engine change to still higher revolu-tions, the auxiliary valve open against the loatof the counter weight and the power carburetorstarts operation for high power. When thenormal carburetor throttle valve is in a fullopen, the power carburetor throttle valve is alsoto be in a full open.

Float ChamberAdjustment of the float level can be done

from outside by adding or subtracting the needlevalve carrier gasket after removing the floatneedle valve installed at the inlet connector.

As ventilation within the float chamber is ofa air vent method and pressure within theventuri andthe float chamber is always constantno matter how suctional registance of the aircleaner varies, fuel consumption can be alwayseconmically maintained. I

1. Take off the cover of float chamber.2. Raise the float slowly until its hanger lip

contact with the valve retainer.3. At this stage, the float upper surface must

be level and parallel with the chamber top.4. Adjusting the float level is done by adding or

subtracting the gasket of float valve seat(needle valve carrier).

5. Addition or subtraction of 2 numbers gasketmake the float level up or down about 1 mm.(one gasket is thickness (0.5 mm»

Adjustment of Fuel Level

Pump arm

Float valvesheet gasket

Float valve 'sheet

Union bolt

Needle valvespring

The float chamber is provided, cover ofwhich is made of glass of facilitate fer inspect-ing inside condition through the marked"LEVEL" line of cover of it.

Float level is shown on the float chambercover with the line 21.5 mm below the body topto which fuel is to be adjusted.

Adjustment of the float level can be donefrom outside by adding or subtracting the needle

valve carrier gasket after removing the floatneedle valve installed at the inlet connector end.

Increase or decrease of shim makes the fuellevel up or downabout 0.039 in. (1 mm).

When fuel level is wrong density of themixture gas will become improper and theengine will get in disorder.

The accelerator must be so adjusted by theadjusting plate at the carburetor side that thethrottle valve may be full open with full pedal onand of slight gap with pedal off. After adjustingthis, tighten up surely the nuts of the adjustingplate.

1. Ass'y-pedal, accelerator2. Bearing-accelerator pedal3. Spring-return, accelerator4. Ring-snap, "E" typeS. Plate-stopper, accelerator pedal6. Screw-machine7. Washer-lock8. Washer-lock9. Bumper-accelerator, pedal arm

10. Spring-<:lamp, accelerator wire11. Ass'y-wire, accelerator

Dimensions of (D) is adjusted to 86.5 mm byrod and adjusting plate.

The nut must tighten surly after fixing thedimension of (D).

The fuel tank has a capacity of 41.0 litresand is situated at the rear of the luggagecompartment.

The fuel pump, operated off the camshaftdraws fuel from the tank and forces it into thecarburetor float chamber. A large and efficientair cleaner fillers the air supply to thecarburetor.

Draining the FuelThe fuel tank is drained by turning the

wrench operated drain cock.

Fuel Tank Gauge UnitSituated on the top face of the tank is the

gauge unit. To remove, withdraw the set screwswhich secure the unit to the tank not forgettingto disconnect the electrical lead beforehand.

Care must be taken not to strain or bend thefloat lever as this may seriously effect subse-quent gauge readings. Remember this alsoapplies when refitting the unit.

Examine the joint washer to ensure that itis in position and undamage. This is essentialas the joint between the tank and gauge unitmust be fuel tight.

[

Washer lockBolt

Washerplain ,;

LQr~

C):

Plate lock fuel gauge--<& ' Q f Bracket fuel tank rear

Gauge fuel tank unit , _;::::;::: Tube ventilation vinyl .

Packing fuel gauge~ ~ Washer plam

~~~~tingfuel Clamptank HAil

,-waSher lock

'L~r"'"

Plate mounting fuel tank

@--Washer lock~Nut

Tube flexiblestrainer totank

When a crack, distortion or damage is foundin the tank, repair or replace it.

To make repairs, put marks with chalk atthe leaking points and, even after the fuel in thetank has been drained out, blow with compressedair through the tank to force out stagnantgasoline vapor completely. Repairs should bedone only when the tank is completely dry.

Leakage is ordinarily mended by soldering.Whenwelding is necessary, the above precautionmust be strictly observed. Otherwise, therewill be danger of exposion.

(B) When Gasoline Fails to Reach GasolineStrainer

If the fuel fails to reach the gasoline strainerwhen there is some fuel left in the gasoline tankand the operation of fuel pump is known to besatisfactory, check the following points.

(When it is difficult to confirm the deliveryof fuel at the strainer, loosen the connector atthe fuel intake of the carburetor.)

1--- - --._-,, '.:E F:

Dash unit:,

,- ,

I"j: c ... J..._,Regulator By-metal! i

:Tank unit,, ,I ,I ,L____ _J

Fig. 2 Diagram of Fuel Gauge Unit

(1)Check to see if gasoline pipe is clogged withdust and dirt. This can be easily checkedby disconn(j)cting the connector of the pipeand blowing with compressed air toward thedirection of the tank. Then from the tankend blow the pipe again and clean the pipe.In many cases the tip of gasoline intake pipeof tank unit is clogged with dust and water.Therefore, together with cleaning of the pipe,

the interior of the tank should be cleaned byremoving the drain plug at the bottom of thetank.Check to see if the gasoline pipe of the tankunit is so bent as to fail to reach the fuelsurface.The standard position of the bottom end ofpipe is about 3/4 in. apart from the bottomin order to prevent its sucking up sedimentson the tank bottom.If not normal, remove tank unit and adjustthe .bendof the pipe.Check to see if the vent hole of the fillercap is clogged with dust and dirt, not supply-ing air to the tank.According to the degree of vacuum within thetank, fuel cannot be drawn up even by theoperation of fuel pump.

So be sure to clean the air vent of the cap.If you should lose the cap and substitute a

wooden plug for it, a measure which in some-times witnessed, the condition inside of the tankbecomes the same as though it were sealed up.Always use only the standard cap.

Operation a,n.dRepairs of Fuel Gauge

As shQWnin Fig. 3, the fuel gauge consistsof the da,s'hunit and tank unit.

The' dash unit, which is installed on theinstrument panel, has two coils that cross eachother at right angles, whose magnetic forcescontrol the movement of a keeper (iron piece)with a hand (indicator).

On the tank unit, a contact arm slides over aresistance in response to the float level.

As shown in Fig. 3 if the ignition switch isturned on when the tank is empty, electriccurrent will flow from the battery through theby-metal unit.

As the float is raised and the contact armmoves, tank unit increases resistance in thecircuit and thus the current which traveledthrough coil by-metal then flows, this time, bothcontact arm and by-metal, and finally to theground.

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That is, this is a gauge ofelectric resistancecontrol type; Esignifies Empty level and F, Fulllevel.

Troubles with Fuel Gaugeand their Remedies

When something is wrong with the readingsof the fuel gauge, first disconnect the wiring atthe unit and, turning on the ignition switch,ground and unground the terminal end of the saidwiring to the body of the car.

If the indicator of the dash unit swingsactively between E and F, the wiring betweenthe dash unit and the said terminal end is in goodcondition, with the defect existing either in tankunit itslef or in poor ground of this unit.

In the test mentioned in the preceedingsection, if the indicator does not swing but itmoves (moves to E)when the dash unit end of thewiring from the tank unit is grounded, the wiringbetween the dash unit and tank unit is defective.

Therefore rewiring or repairing is required.If, when indicator fials to swing but sparking

is observed when the wiring connecting thebattery with the terminal on the dash unit isdisconnected at the dash unit end and grounded,it proves the wiring is satisfactory, and thetrouble is in the dash unit itself.

If sparking does not occur, the wiring, whichis thus indicated to be out of order, should berepaired or replaced.

In correct readings of the indicator probablymenas that the height of the float of the tank unitis in error.

In this case, adjust the height of the float bybending the rod.

Troubles with the unit are difficult to repairso it should be replaced by a new unit.

In checking the tank unit, be sure to insert afuel gauge in the circuit between the battery andthe unit.

Instruction for DisassemblyTo remove the bowl from the body, loosen

the strainer nut and remove the wire to a side.Take off the bolt, nut and washer from the wireand remove bowl, gasket and screen.

The strainer body in made of aluminumalloy. Take good care not to break threads ofeach connection.

Pay attention not to tighten the strainer nutso excessively that the gasket and bowl arebroken.

When installing the strainer assembly, thestrainer bracket should be cleaned sufficiently.Dust and dirt on the bracket surface preventplug from keeping air-tight.

Nut~ vA"'Y,"be fueltank to sttamerW"he< lOCk~ "®

© ~, LEibOW oil "he< We<

Tube flexiblestrainer topumpAss'yclamp ~

flexible. tube . ~

Conoecto<fUel)pump to strainer <,~

~~p'Cking fuel ""We<

:; ' ..,~ Packing filter element

Ass'y element filter

TypeMethod drivenDiaphragm spring

Free lengthLength in use and

tensionRocker arm spring

Free lengthValve spring

Free lengthThickness of valvePerformance

Max. quantity dis-charged

Diaphragm pumpDriven by camshaft

36.5-0.1 mm18 mm-1.6-0.1 kg

9.5 mm1.6mm

Max. pressuredischarged

Max. degree ofsuction vacuum

Hand primer quantitydischarged

1300cU.cm per minuteat 1000 r.p.m. of cam,

500 mm in suction height110-130 mm in

mercury columnMore than 400 mm in

mercury column80 cU.cm (at 20 strokes)

The fuel pump, which is of the diaphragmtype, is mechanically driven by the eccentricpart of the camshaft of the engine.

It draws gasoline from the tank and deliversit under pressure to the carburetor.

Even when the engine is not running, fuel canbe delivered under pressure by moving the handprimer up and down.

By the rotation of camshaft, rocker arm ispushed and pull rod of diaphragm is pulled down.

At the same time, diaphragm goes downagainst diaphragm spring and then is pushed upagain by its spring.

By the movements of the diaphragm andfunctioning ofthe valves at the inlet and outlet ofthe pump chamber, gasoline is drawn up fromthe tank to the carburetor.

If the float chamber of the carburetorcontains enough gasoline and the needle valve isclosed, gasoline is not allowed into thecarburetor.

Thus gasoline is stored in the pump chamberand due to its pressure, the diaphragm is keptdown and cannot return.

Under this condition, the rocker arm worksin vain, as the rod remains low.

The rocker arm spring serves to prevent

noise, keeping the rocker arm pushed againstthe eccentric of the camshaft.

Disassembling & Inspection

Checking with fuel pump installedon engine:

Switch off and stop the engine. Disconnectthe fuel pipe at the inlet union of the carburetor,and then turn the engine with the crank handle.

Now the gasoline should be ejected vigor-ously from the tip of the pipe once very tworotations of the crankshaft.

To test the function of the pump alone,operation of the hand primer and checking thefuel ejection is enough.

Removal from engine:

Fuel pump can be easily removed by dis-connecting the inlet and outlet unions and loosen-ing the 2 attachment nuts.Inspection prior to disassembling:

Prior to disassembling of the removedpump, measure the distance between the rockerarm and flange of the lower body by means of ascale and see if the rocker arm, rocker linkand pins are worn.

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Method of disassembling:

First wipe dirt off the outer surface of thepump and put marks on both the upper and lowerbodies, to make their reassembling easy.

It is easily separated into two when the fivescrews around the upper body are loosened.

Take great care not to damage the diaphragmduring this disassembly.

Checking & Repaires of PartsWash the disassembled parts well in gasoline

then inspect them.Replace the diaphragm if any damage,

impregnation by gasoline.Rep~ace a valve assembly if any wear or

faulty operation is detected.Even if repairs are unavoidably required,

the limit for repairs of warp or wear of thevalve is 0.001 in.

When the surface of the valve seat or valveis found irregular, remove the valve seat of theoutlet and dress the surface with a fine oilstone.

In case of irregularity of the seat surface ofthe inlet valve, which cannot be taken off fromthe body, recondition it with a cutter and grind-ing tool.

When the surface of the valve is faulty, placesome very fine grinding compound on the surface

of a flat piece of glass plate and grind it lightlywith the tip of a finger. The standard thicknessof the valve is 106 mm.

The hole ofthe joint parts of diaphragm shaftand link may be worn to some extent. This isnot serious, but when serious eccentric wear,crack, or breakage is found, the part must be

•replaced.As a remedial measure, such wear can be

compensated for at the time of dismantling andreassembling of the body, by inserting a packingmade of thick paper between the lower body anddiaphragm to raise the relative position ofdiaphragm shaft with respect to the lower body.

The rocker arm should be replace when itscontact face with the cam and that with the linkand its pin hole are seriously worn.

When its re-employment by reconditioning isunavidable, add material to the rocker arm andlink by welding and finish them with a file, butthis cannot last long and is no more than atemporary measure.

Renew the arm pin when it is found wornexcessively.

The diaphragm spring, arm spring seldombecome faulty, but when weakened, replace themalways with standard ones.

If the diaphragm spring is to strong, itresults in overflow of the float chamber of thecarburetor.

The tension of the spring must not bestrengthened or weakened arbitrarily by hand.

Check to see if there is any warp on the jointsurfaces of the cap and body, and, afterdisassembling is over, renew the gasket to keepits air-tighteness.

Reassembling & InstallingEmploy standard springs for the various

uses as stated before.Install valves precisely for close contact

with their respective seats.In screwing in of upper and lower bodies and

diaphragm, fit them together according to themarks which were put before the disassemblingand align one screwing hole to its mate, and thenscrew in at the position where the diaphragm isfully pulled down with the rocker arm pushedtowards the side of the body by and pressure.

Do not screw in tight one by one since itcauses warping. Instead, clamp all the screws

round loosely and uniformly.Then tighten them diagonally and lastly re-

tighten all of them in order to make sure.As a general rule, gaskets should be re-

placed by new ones.Installation on the engine is done in the

reverse order to that for disassembly.Be sure to set the rocker arm so that it is

contacting the eccentric of camshaft properly,not the rear side or to one side. Replace thegasket between the cylinder block and pump witha new, standard one.

Checking FunctionWh~n repairs of the pump is over, or before

it is installed on the engine, make a check tosee:

When a vacuum gauge is connected to thepump inlet port and the pump is mounted on atester, the rocker arm is activated by theeccentric of the camshaft revolving at 1000 rpm.Then the gauge pressure should rise to higherthan 400 mm of mercury column, and., even ifoperation is discontinued, this condition shouldremain for more than 3 seconds.

When a gauge or tester is not available, testin the following way:

Close the inlet port and· outlet port withfinger tips. Then, after operating the rockerarm several times, suddenly release the fingers.

The pump is in good conditions if, 3 to 5 secondsthence, there can be heard strong inlet and outletnoise respectively.

The pump is mechanically fit for use when,by connecting a hose to the inlet port, it is ableto draw up gasoline from a height of more than0.5 m. After installing the pump, test itsfunctions during operation.

(A) Connect the gasoline pipe on the inlet postside only. Leave that on the outlet port sideas it is, and turn the engine 6 to 7 rotationsby means of the crank handle and make surethat there is sure outflow of gasoline fromthe outlet port.

(B) Connect the gasoline pipe to the outlet portside and tighten all the piping joints. Thenturn the engine again several times to see ifthere is any leakage of air or gasoline fromeach connection.

ADJUSTMENT ANDINSPECTION OF ENGINE

The engine must always be operated in thebest possible condition, and for this purpose,periodic inspection and adjustment must bemaintained in a certain order while in use aswell as after overhaul.

Order of Inspection and Adjustmentof Engine

(1) Check the cooling water: water level andextent of fillthiness.

(2) Inspect the battery: all connections, level ofelectrolyte, specific gravity of electrolyteand voltage.

(3) Inspect the oil: amount, filthiness, classifi-cation and viscosity.

(4)Cleaning of spark plugs and adjustment oftheir gaps.

(5) Measurement of compression pressure ofcylinder. The standard compressionpressure of the engine is approx. 163 lbs.per.sq.in. at 350 r.p.m. Measurement ofpressure is made in the following manner:(see Fig. 1) First, warm up the engine(temperature of cooling water, 70-80° C) thenremove all spark plugs and pull out thethrottle knob all the way (that is in thecarburetor, the throttle valve and choke valveare fully opened); press a compression gaugeagainst each spark plug hole. and, running

DATSUN PICK-UP-the starter motor with a fully charged battery,read the maximum pressure obtained within5-8 rotations of the motor. This measure-ment must be made as quickly as possible.It the compression pressure of anyonecylinder differs by 101b./sq.in. or moreform that of another, the cause must be

(6)Check and adjust the distributor:If the breaker contact points have defectivecontact surfaces, dress them and adjust thegap to 0.45-0.55 mm.Also turn the carn of the distributor clockwi~eand check to see if the governor can carryout advancing function.

(7)Adjust ignition timing correctly.By utilizing a power timing light, the functionof the governor can be checked together withthe ignition timing (illumination of crankpulley will enable to inspect the conditions ofrunning and advancing of the timing.) (B.'1'.D.C. 20°)

(8)Inspection of fuel pump andgasoline strainer.(9)Adjust the slow setting of carburetor.

0.0) Checking operation of generator.Check the generating condition and functioningof the cut-out relay by means of indicationsof the ammeter.

0.1) Adjustment of slack in fan belt.0.,2) Adjustment of valve tappet clearance.0.3) Road test.

While driving in 3rd. speed at about 25 -km/hr., suddenly step on the accelerator. Ifonly a slight knocking results, the ignitiontiming is correct. Slow speed adjustment ismade so that the speed is about 15 km/hr. ,when driving in 3rd speed.

Diagnosing of Engine by means ofVacuum Gauge and Combustion Tester

In diagnosing the engine, the condition ofeach cylinder can .be assumed by measuring itscompression.

For employment of a vacuum gauge, connectit to the.engine intake manifold and refer to Fig.2.

The use of a master motor tester as shownin Fig. 2 is convenient.

When a combustion tester is used, install aspecial intake (pick-up) in the exhaust tube, andafter the engine has been started, analyze bymeans of a special gauge, the combustion gaswhich flows through the connecting hose into thetester, and judge the combustion conditionaccording to the mixture ratio of fuel and air,When measurement is to be made in rainy orcold weather, use an auxiliary condenserbetween the pick up and the meter, otherwise,the excessive moisture in the exhaust gas willdamage the functioning of the meter if permittedto enter it.

Fig. 2 Motor Master Tester Available for4, 6 and 8 Cy linder Engine

When a tester is to be used, make adjust-ments according to the following table.

Conditions (Without Suitable Weight Ratioload) of Mixture

Low Speed Running70 ±2%(600 r.p.m.)

lHigh Speed Running85±~%(2,000 r. p. m.)

Engine Trouble ShootingFig. 3 is intended to be of assistance in the

systematic analysis alld isolation of symptomsof engine troubles so that the defective pointsmay be accurately traced and economicallyrepaired.

(1) Normal ConditionSettles between 18-20 in.

(2) Normal conditionWhen indicator fluct-uates between a rangeof 0-25 in. as engineis raced, rings andvalves are in goodconditions.

(3) Even if indicator set-tIes, if reading is lowrings or oil are infaulty condition.

(4) When above (3) con-dition exists, indicatorwill swing to 0 in. ifengine is raced.

ENGINE

(5) When indicator some-times drops by 4 in.,or so; valve stickingexists.

(6) When indicator dropsby several inches atcertain time, valve areburnt.

(7) When indicator dropsby about 2 in., valveleak. (Faulty seating ofvalves.)

(8) When indicator oscil-lates actively between14 and 18 in., valvestem guide is wornout.

(9) When, with a slightspeeding up, indicatormoves between 10-22in. , and with increaseof speed, the rangebecomes larger, valvesprings are weak.

(10) When indicator re-mains still between8;..., 15 in., it is be-cause either valvetiming is retarded orvalve clearances arenot correct.

(11) When indicator set-tles between 14;'" 17in. , ignition timing isretarded.

(12) When indicator movesslowly between 14"';:;16in. , it is becauseeither electrode gapsof plugs are too nar-row, or breaker pointis defective.

(13) When indicator pointsto 5 in. or below,there is leakage atintake-manifold orgasket of carburetor.(Faulty clamping ofgasket.)

(14) When indicator oscil-lates regularly between5 - 19 in., there isleakage at cylinderhead gasket. (Faultyclamping of gasket.)

(15) When indicator firstrises high, drops downto zero, and then re-turns to 16 in. , muffleris clogged.

(16) When indicator movesslowly between 13 -17 in., carburetor ispoorly adjusted.

Battery discharged or connections poorTiming poorly adjustedAir being sucked inPlug sparking weakWiring incorrectPlugs dirtyTiming incorrectShort in circuitIgnition coil or condenser defectiveContact point dirtyPoint contact poorBreaker arm insulation defectiveRotor shortedNo gasoline in tankStrainer defectivePipe cloggedFloat valve stickingNo air can enter tankFuel pump not operating

.~{ Plug spark

~ { Sparking at terminals ~

..0 Plugs do ~~~ not spark

No sparking Breakerat terminals

defective

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Ul 0Ul.•.. ~0 ds::...•...•.,...

~a.>s::.,...bOs::I:il

No gasoline or gasoline supply stoppedEngine seizedLubrication insufficientAir being sucked inJet or pipe cloggedFloat sunkFloat in high position, will not descendCarburetor attachment not secure

E Piston ring or valve stickyCompression poor ----- Piston or connecting rod broken

Valve seating poor

carbureto~" free of

comdPresslOn1troublegoo

carburetorr=defective CPlugs

spark

ENGINE

Breaker arm spring defectiveContact point poorRotor shortedIgnition coil or condenser defectiveDistributor wetCap insulation defectiveCord shorted or connection poor

S ki f ·11" -{ Wiring shorted or cutpar ng rom cm me Plugs dirty or broken

Compression weakValve clearance incorrectValve spring weakValve deformedMuffler cloggedValve timing incorrectIgnition retarded too muchCarburetor adjustment poorGasoline supplied insufficientlyCarbon deposits excessiveGasoline of poor grade

Intermittent -E Carburetor defectivelack of power Valves sticking-f Pre-ignition

Engine gives off abnormal noise OverheatingBearing wornPlugs dirtyBreaker point defectiveIntermittent shortingMixture too richInsufficient gasoline supply to carburetorWater in gasolineNozzle clogged

No spark-ing fromcoil line Breaker

arm goodPlugs donot spark

Continuous lackof power

Engine oper ationdefective duringrunning

1Sparking

M" f· . irregularIS Irmg

Sparking normal

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