5 things you should know before

you buy your wedding ring

You’ll be wearing your wedding ring for a long time, so it’s

important to make the right choice. With a greater variety of

wedding ring designs than ever before, and in a wider range

of materials, it’s not easy to pick just one. - So how do you

choose your perfect wedding ring? This guide deals with

some of the most important things you need to consider be-

fore you buy your ring.

In this guide we discuss:

1. Deciding which metal is best for you.

2. Choosing a style to complement your engagement ring

3. Commissioning a bespoke wedding ring

4. Wedding ring prices

5. When you should order your wedding rings

1. Deciding which metal is best for you

A good way to start your search is to investigate the range of

metals available and their relative merits.

Your choice could be influenced by your personal colour preference or by price, but you

should also seriously consider durability and suitability to your lifestyle.

Traditionally wedding rings are made of a precious metal. This used to mean a choice of either

gold, which comes in various purities and in yellow, white or red (also known as “rose”), or

platinum. Silver is a precious metal, but it is very soft, which is why it is generally considered to

be unsuitable for wedding rings.

In recent years Palladium, which is another precious metal, has become a very popular

alternative, particularly for men’s wedding rings. There has also been a trend towards non-

precious metals, such as Titanium, Tungsten and Zirconium.

It is even possible to buy wedding rings that are not made from metal at all. Wooden wedding

rings are available, but be warned: These are not suitable for everyday wear. - Wood is just not

strong enough for a ring that you’ll want to wear for a lifetime, and repeated immersion in water

will cause it to degrade.

This guide will deal with metal wedding rings only.

Begin by deciding which colour of metal you prefer.

Yellow metal or white metal ? (“Gold colour” or “Silver colour”)

If you prefer yellow metal you’ll be looking at one of the gold alloys, but if white metal is your

preference the choice is more varied. You could consider white gold, platinum, palladium, or one

of the non-precious white metals.

The Precious Metals

Gold.

The purity of gold is expressed as the “carat”. (It can be confusing that the word “carat” is also

used to describe a measure of weight when discussing diamonds or other gemstones. – There

is no connection at between the two uses of the same word).

When talking about gold, “carat” means “parts out of 24” pure gold. Pure gold is

described as 24 carat, 24/24, or 100% pure. In Europe pure gold is considered too soft to

be used in jewellery, although it is used in some parts of the world, especially the Far

East. Pure gold has a very rich orange-yellow colour, and is normally alloyed (mixed)

with other metals to make it less malleable, and more suitable for jewellery-making.

22ct gold is 22/24 pure (or 916 parts per 1000). It has a rich “old gold” colour, which is

too intense for most European tastes, although a couple of generations ago it was often

used for wedding rings, and is still popular with Asian purchasers. 22ct gold is a very

soft metal, so is really only suitable for very plain bands, as details will tend to disappear

relatively quickly.

Quality jewellers across Europe normally use mainly 18ct yellow gold, (18/24, or 750/1000

pure). Silver and copper make up the remaining 1/4 or 250/1000, resulting in a less intense

colour combined with good durability. Gold also comes in “red” or “rose”, which is alloyed with

only copper to give a red colour. It’s a good idea to try on different alloys and see which you

think best suits your skin tone.

Warning!

White gold rings change

colour!

White gold was originally

developed as a cheaper

alternative to platinum. It is

quite soft, so is much less

durable than platinum and

palladium. The colour is a

warmer white, which is usually

electro-plated with rhodium to

give a cleaner white appearance,

similar to that of platinum.

Unfortunately, this plating is very

thin, and it wears off quite

quickly, revealing the less

attractive off-white colour of the

white gold underneath.

18 carat white gold is achieved by the addition

of palladium (more of which later).

9 carat gold is 9/24 gold, so half as pure as 18ct gold.

It contains 15/24 other metal. In the case of 9ct yellow

gold, equal amounts of silver and copper are added,

whereas with 9ct white it is generally all silver, resulting

in a very soft alloy. 9ct red gold contains more copper

than gold which , as you might expect gives a very

coppery colour.

When looking at wedding rings in a jeweller’s window,

you need to remember that whilst platinum and

palladium are the same colour all the way through,

white gold is coated. Although apparently a very

similar colour, the surface of a new white gold ring is

not the white gold itself. What you are looking at is a

very thin coating that will start to rub off the moment

you start to wear it.

Many people think that white gold tarnishes. - This is not the case. It’s just the plating wearing

away. When this happens you could take it to a jeweller to have it re-plated, but it will happen

again. If you prefer a white metal, consider going for a metal that is naturally white rather than a

yellow metal that has been made white artificially.

Bear in mind that if you opt for white gold you will have ongoing costs of re-plating, which

could need to be done every year or two, depending on how much wear and tear the ring

receives. If you do a manual job, or if you don’t take your ring off when doing anything that

will cause abrasion, plating will wear through very quickly. To avoid this expense choose

a naturally white metal.

Platinum

In terms of durability and colour, platinum is the best of the white precious metals, but it

is also the most expensive because it is the rarest. Unlike white gold, platinum is naturally

white, so requires no plating. It is much tougher and more hard-wearing than white gold,

and is hypoallergenic. Combine this with the luxurious weighty feel of platinum, and it is

no wonder that many couples are prepared to pay the extra price for the best.

Palladium

If your budget won’t stretch to platinum, you could consider Palladium. It’s possible that

you’ve never heard of palladium as for several decades it was not used in jewellery. This

was partly because there was no Hallmark that could be stamped on items to prove they

were made from this material. However in 2009 it was given a Hallmark, and since then it

has been gaining popularity, especially for men’s wedding rings

Palladium is a “Platinum Group metal”, and like

platinum itself, it is naturally white, so needs no

plating. Palladium is almost as tough as

platinum, but it is less dense, so it weighs less,

but the big plus is that it costs a lot less than

platinum. There are two purity grades available.

The most commonly used is 950/1000. The other

component of this alloy is usually copper or

iridium. The less expensive 500/1000 is alloyed

with an equal amount of silver.

Palladium is more difficult to work with and it is less suitable than platinum for intricate

work such as stone-setting. Although the material is much less expensive than platinum,

additional labour costs with palladium narrow that difference considerably. However, for

something like a completely plain wedding ring, where there is very little labour involved,

palladium comes a very close second to platinum. It is particularly suitable for men’s

wedding rings, which tend to be bigger and chunkier than ladies’ rings. Because they

weigh more the difference in price between platinum and palladium is more significant. As

the appearance is virtually identical, many men find it hard to justify paying the extra for

platinum.

.Non-precious metals

These days it is not just precious metals that are used for wedding rings. You

will find increasing numbers in Titanium, Stainless Steel, Tungsten and

Zirconium.

The prices of rings in “base metals” are, as you might expect, much lower than those of

equivalent precious metal rings. These metals have some attractive properties, but there are

also disadvantages you need to be aware of.

Titanium, which has a darker greyish colour, is very tough and durable, but very difficult, if not

impossible to alter. If your finger gets bigger with time you may just have to stop wearing a

titanium ring, whereas a precious metal ring can normally be enlarged. This can be done by

stretching slightly, or the ring can be cut and opened and extra metal can be added.

Titanium is a greyish colour

Warning!

Sometimes the only way to remove a wedding ring is to have it cut off.

This can be when the finger swells for any reason, including injury,

weight gain or arthritic joints. With a precious metal ring this is not a

problem. If your ring is made of a really hard metal such as tungsten

carbide, it is too hard to be cut, which could cause serious problems.

2. How to select a style to

complement your engagement ring

A bride’s wedding ring is traditionally worn next to the

engagement ring, so you need to consider how the two

rings will look together.

Most people want the engagement ring to be the focal-point, with the wedding ring “playing a

supporting role”. – The idea is that it should enhance the engagement ring rather than draw

attention away from it.

To achieve this you really need the two rings to have one or more characteristics in common, so

that the overall effect is harmonious. Incidentally, your wedding ring should ideally be made from

the same type of metal as your engagement ring. Wearing two different metals together is likely

to result in the harder metal wearing the softer one. Most people opt for the same alloy anyway,

just to ensure that the colours match.

It is a very good idea to match the depth of the wedding ring to that of the engagement ring, so

that they sit on the same level. An engagement ring and a wedding ring will look much better

together if the profiles of the bands are the same.

A small selection of 5mm plain bands showing a variety of profiles.

Profile

(Alternatively known as the “cross-section” of the ring)

You’ll find versions of these profile options commonly available in standard

widths.

Flat

Flat inside, Flat outside, flat edges, so rectangular in cross-section.

D-shape

Curved outside, flat inside. The curve is determined by the depth and width of the band.

A band that is half as deep as it is wide (e.g. 3mm wide x 1.5mm deep) will have a semi-

circular cross section. Reducing the depth reduces the curve. “ Normal” high-street

jewellers offer standard proportions but a bespoke jeweller can work to any

measurements required.

Court

Rounded inside, rounded outside for comfort, edges flat or rounded.

The degree of curvature of the inner and outer surfaces is generally fixed, as this is

done by a machine. A bespoke jeweller who makes rings by hand will be able to offer

degrees of curvature ranging from almost flat to highly-domed.

Flat Court

Flat outside, rounded inside for comfort, edges flat or rounded.

Halo

Round cross-section. The width and depth are the same. These come in a very limited

range of diameters, but a bespoke jeweller will make any diameter you wish.

Non-standard profiles

If you want to match the profile of your engagement ring exactly you could opt for a handmade

wedding ring. Working by hand allows the goldsmith to replicate the cross-section of your

engagement ring. This will make it look as though you had purchased the two rings a matched

pair.

If you would like a plain band that is a little more unusual you could consider a non-

standard profile. Bear in mind you need the ring to be comfortable, practical and

durable, but in theory any shape could be used as the profile. A bespoke jeweller will be

able to advise you.

Width of band

Wedding rings are commonly found in these standard widths: 2mm, 2.5mm, 3.0mm,

4.0mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, 10mm

Generally ladies prefer narrower bands. Their fingers tend to be smaller, on average, than men’s,

and narrower bands are more feminine. Also ladies usually have an engagement ring on the

same finger, whereas men usually wear just the wedding ring.

If you would prefer a non-standard width, you could have a bespoke ring in any width you wish. -

Often a bride will want her wedding ring to match the width of her engagement ring, which could

be say 2.2mm or 3.4mm. This rules-out standard width bands, but for a bespoke jeweller it is no

problem making a ring of any width to the nearest 1/10 of a mm.

Finish

The surface of the ring can be finished in many ways. The traditional polished finish is still very

popular. Brides tend to go for polished finish because most engagement rings are polished.

There are various matte finishes that just take the shine off the surface. Sand-blasting gives a

“frosted” appearance, whereas a brushed matte finish is made up of tiny scratches. These can be

running in one direction such as around the band, across the band or diagonally, or a “scoured”

effect can be achieved using a circular motion.

You should bear in mind that the finer the finish, the less durable it will be. Just as a polished

finish will gradually become less shiny with wear, over time a matte finish will become more shiny.

A more distinct finish can be achieved by adding a texture. Hammered or beaten finishes vary

according to the size and shape of the pein of the hammer, and the strength of the blows. A

heavy finish can be combined with a finer finish. – e.g. a hammered ring can be polished or

matte-finished.

Your wedding rings don’t necessarily have to match. It is quite usual for one partner to choose a

polished ring and for the other to opt for a rugged texture that is more suited to harder wear .

Many textures can be achieved using punches or burrs. Talk to a bespoke jeweller about the sort

of effect you want to achieve and he or she will suggest possibilities for you to consider.

A pair of platinum rings with a heavy texture for the groom and a polished finish for the bride.

If you can’t find a wedding ring you really like, why not consider

having one made to your requirements?

There is nothing wrong with buying a factory made, mass-produced wedding ring. – Let’s face

it; that’s what most people do! However, more and more couples are shunning the “off the shelf”

option in favour of something created just for them. Don’t think that this is just for those who

want something weird or wacky. Bespoke wedding rings can be unusual and idiosyncratic but

they can equally be totally plain, simple, and understated.

We have already discussed how a bride’s wedding ring can be designed specifically to suit her

engagement ring, and this of course is an example of a bespoke ring.

When you commission a ring you are not limiting yourself to set ranges of pre-determined

designs on offer, that any Tom, Dick or Harry can walk in and buy.

Your wedding ring is an important purchase. – It will play a symbolic part in the wedding

ceremony itself, and then it will stay on your finger for the rest of your life. Surprisingly more

couples take an active interest in the design of their wedding cake than have a hand in the

design of their wedding rings!

3. Commissioning a bespoke wedding ring

Commissioning a unique wedding ring might sound daunting. – It’s not something

you do every day, but for a bespoke jeweller it is a straightforward process, and

making bespoke rings is something that they do everyday, so it is nothing to worry

about!

A simple way to look at the design of a bespoke ring is as a series of choices. We have already

touched on bespoke rings throughout this guide. By going bespoke your wedding ring becomes

even more special because you are involved from the very beginning in the design of your own

unique ring. You have control of every aspect of the design, including the metal, the profile, the

width, the depth, the finish and also how much you spend!

Many people assume that anything bespoke will automatically be expensive, but because

you are starting with a blank canvas, nothing is pre-determined, so the ring can be

designed to hit a particular price point.

Fitted wedding rings

One of the most common reasons for commissioning a bespoke wedding

ring is because an engagement ring does not sit well with a straight band.

Some engagement rings are perfectly straight on the sides, which means a straight wedding ring

is what’s needed. However, if your engagement ring has curved sides, or the stone setting is

wider than the band, you will find that a straight wedding ring will only touch on certain points,

leaving gaps between the two rings. This can look awkward and feel less comfortable, but the

main problem is that it allows them to move against one another, which causes friction, resulting

in excessive wear.

Although fitted or “shaped” wedding rings are available to buy off-the-shelf in some jewellers, they

never fit properly, which means there will still be movement and problems with wear. If you

commission a bespoke fitted wedding ring , not only will it will fit perfectly with your engagement

ring, reducing wear to a minimum, but it will also have the right profile and depth to complement

your ring perfectly.

When the curve is slight it is possible to have the ring shaped on one side only, but sometimes

it is necessary for both sides to be shaped to avoid the fitted part becoming too narrow.

4. Wedding Ring Prices

The price of any wedding ring, whether off-the-shelf or bespoke, will

be determined by the cost of material and the cost of labour.

Precious metals are sold by weight. The price of your ring will depend on which alloy

you want and how much it weighs.

A gram of 9ct gold contains half as much pure gold as a gram of 18ct gold. This means a

9ct ring will be less dense, so will weigh less than an identical 18ct ring. This is of course

reflected in the price.

Platinum is much denser than gold, so a platinum ring weighs considerably more than an

identical ring in gold, and the price-per-gram is higher too.

The cost of labour will be largely similar in all metals, although possibly a bit higher in

palladium, if it is a more intricate design, because it is harder to work with.

With non-precious metal rings, the material has little intrinsic value, so most of the price of

the ring will be labour.

Bear in mind that whilst a standard “off the shelf“ ring already

exists and will have a price, if you opt for a bespoke ring, you

will need to have a design consultation with the jeweller so

that he or she can establish exactly what you have in mind, in

order to know what materials and labour will be needed to

create it, and only then is it possible to calculate a price.

A bespoke wedding ring does not have to be

expensive, because you are starting with a

blank canvas and nothing is pre-determined.

Obviously, the more you spend, the more

metal you’ll get, and your budget needs to be

realistic for the weight of ring you want, but

dealing with a bespoke jeweller allows you to

choose where compromises can be made in

order to get as close as possible to your

perfect wedding ring for your ideal budget.

Once the jeweller knows the design you want, he or she will know how much time it is likely to

take to create it. By subtracting the labour cost from the total budget, you arrive at the figure

available to spend on the materials, so it’s easy to work out how many grams of a particular metal

that will buy. It’s then a case of working out what width and depth can be achieved in your finger

size with that amount of metal.

prices of precious metal can change twice a day!

Precious metal prices are unpredictable. They can

remain stable for a long period, barely fluctuating from

one week to the next, and then, suddenly, there is a

massive price rise.

Bespoke jewellers generally source materials when

needed, so any quote will be based on current metal

prices. You should be aware that this figure could

change until the point when you place a firm order and

pay a deposit, because this is when the metal is

purchased.

From that point any subsequent price rise should not

affect how much you pay for your ring. Once you have

decided what you want it makes sense to place an

order, because there is always the risk that, if you think

about it for too long, the price could rise dramatically.

Jewellers will generally

require a deposit of at

least 25% of the total

price, and the balance

is due when you

collect them. You may

be able to pay in

instalments, provided

the balance is cleared

when you collect your

ring.

Make sure you compare like with like!

When shopping around for the best price, bear in mind that the

weight of a ring depends on the width, the depth and the finger-size.

Change any one of these and the weight will change too, which will

be reflected in the price.

You will often see wedding rings sold as “light-weight”, “medium-weight”, or “heavy-weight”.

This can be very misleading when comparing prices, as there is no industry standard for these

terms.—What one manufacturer or retailer describes as “heavy-weight” might be described by

another as “ightweight”.

What they are really talking about is depth, or the thickness of the metal from which the ring is

made. It’s better to think in terms of millimetres when comparing one with another from the point

of view of comfort or durability, but gram weights when comparing prices.

Unless you know the

weights it is not

possible to work out

whether a lower-priced

ring really is a better

price than a heavier

one!

Example:

A men’s platinum 6mm

wide court ring in size S

could weigh anything

between say 8 grams and

24 grams, depending on

finger-size and depth.

The strength of a ring is largely down to the depth, and has

little to do with width. Someone who does office work, and

has a sedentary lifestyle ,can get away with a fairly low-profile

ring, whereas someone who does a manual job, or who gets

involved in any activities that will put pressure on a ring,

should go for a more heavy-duty ring, so that it does not get

bent out of shape. It is important to remember this when de-

ciding on the depth of your ring. It is sometimes sensible to

go for a heavier ring in a less expensive metal in preference to

a very lightweight ring in a more expensive metal.

5. When should you order your wedding rings?

As with most aspects of your

wedding, you should plan ahead, and

not leave things to the last minute.

Most people like to have their rings

at least a month before the wedding,

and it’s a good idea to order a couple

of months before that, so aim to

order at least 3 months before the

wedding. Many couples order their

rings 6 or 8 months before the big

day.

You won’t have to pick them up

before you want them, but you’ll

know they are ready and waiting for

you.

Andrew Leggett has been designing and making fine jewellery

for forty years, and has been running his own business since

1985. After thousands of commissions, he still derives great

satisfaction from working with clients to design and make even

something as simple as a wedding ring. He and his team are

always pleased to discuss wedding ring ideas and offer advice

with absolutely no obligation.

www.aurumjewellers.com