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044WANDER

GONETO

WHISTLER

Words & Images | Heidi Swift

How not to start a mountain biking vacation: miss your

flight, lose your passport and then take a three-hour bus ride with a kid who’s vomiting his guts out two rows back. On the upside,

if you’re going to arrive somewhere after going

through all of that, Whistler is one of the most awesome

places you could pick.

Let’s be clear about one thing: you cannot spend too much time in this town. Within 36 hours of arriving, I’ve already ridden my bike for 12 hours: three on the road, seven on cross-country mountain bike trails and two in the downhill park. Memories of the little puking person are long gone, I’m as tired as I’ve ever been and I’m sitting in a lodge surrounded by professional bike bums, watching ride videos with my new best friend Toby. (Damn, if someone had told me that my guide was going to be a young, fresh-faced kid with an English accent, I would have packed my good chamois.)

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046 The first time I pedaled in this town I was on a loaded touring bike. I’d ridden up from Portland, Oregon via the Washington peninsula and Victoria, B.C. I’d been camping. I was famished. I was soaking and tired of climbing. I wanted to hate Whistler the way you want to hate the pretty girl who is good at everything she tries, but I couldn’t. Even during a drizzle, it has a picturesque charm that goes way beyond postcard polish. It’s a land of sweeping vistas almost numerous enough to become commonplace (almost). It’s a place where people go to visit and then never get around to leaving. You go to Whistler thinking it will never live up to the hype and then it does: the only option is to settle in and get giddy.

I’m supposed to be writing about cross-country, but I can’t resist attending the Women’s Night at the downhill park. I want to see what everyone’s talking about.

I’m not disappointed; 106 women in full armor swarm at the base of the ski lift before we head up in groups assigned based on skill level. I am in the “I don’t even know how to put my bike on the lift” group. School’s in session and I float the rented big rig down crazy-banked green runs with a sassy little gang of super hot, emerging adrenaline junkies.

Sitting on the lift for the second time I realize that downhill is like eating all the cookie dough out of the pint of chocolate-chip cookie dough ice cream. Your boyfriend comes back and says, “Where’s all the cookie dough?” and you just put on your cute face and get away with it. It’s awesome and you feel a little evil but you also know you’d do it again in a heartbeat. You get on the lift and gravity does its thing–somewhere in the process you get more and more amazing at handling your bike. I get more descending practice in one day

than I’ve gotten in a month of Oregon cross-country riding.

On my last day it’s back to earning turns. Toby takes me to Logger’s Lake, a quiet little spot just above a lovely Riverside Trail on the Cheakamus River. We cross a suspension bridge. The dirt is tacky and swoopy and kind. We sit by the lake and watch the reflection. We talk about bikes. He’s taking it easy on me. “Is this the date ride?” I ask. Then I crash and rip my knee open, much to his horror.

“You’re going to get me sacked!”

“I didn’t have a choice. This is the last ride of my trip. I can’t go mountain biking in Whistler without shedding blood—it wouldn’t be right.” I insist he waits while I take a picture of my knee.

“Hold on—a few more seconds and the blood will be running down my shin. Better shot.”

Get ThereFind your way to the scenic wonderland that is Whistler and I guarantee that you will see three things: a bear, a hot server with some kind of swoon-worthy accent, and at least one person wandering through the main village with an extremity in a cast looking astonishingly stoked and simultaneously stoned (prescription painkillers, of course). In short, it’s awesome.

The “big hits” vibe comes on strong and—in the summer anyway—the pulse of the place is centered around ski lifts dragging armored boys and girls to the top of the mountain for a ripping’

ride down. At the bottom you can grab a beer at the Garibaldi Lift Company and watch from the patio as little human bodies launch skyward. It’s got the spectacle quality of a circus and, for your spectator dollars you certainly can’t miss, but the real secret about Whistler is the thing that all the downhill fixation overshadows: over 250 kilometers of world-class cross-country amazingness.

With over 60 maintained trails (most of which are meticulously graded and well marked), the possibilities are basically endless. And while beginners will find some smooth and swoopy options to devour, the majority of the dirt begs for a little more finesse. Bring your big girl pants and put your inhibitions aside: Whistler trails are going to make your heart sing

In the morning a gang of awesome staffers make a humble breakfast and a decidedly blue-collar pot of coffee. I spend my time stuffing my face, laughing in bursts, thinking of my grandfather (this is his kind of coffee) and kicking myself for not packing a flat-billed hat. Then we pedal.

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“Peaches en Regalia,” “Disco Boy” and “Pinocchio’s Furniture.”

Comfortably NumbThis is the big boy that everyone talks about: Whistler’s signature epic. It’s typically ridden as a point-to-point one-way ride starting at the Wedgemont Parking Lot north of Whistler and then heading back into town. The trail was conceived, designed and ultimately built by local trail-building legend, Chris Markle and includes approximately 24 kilometers of long climbs, steep descents, challenging rock faces, roots, elevated bridges and eye-popping vistas. You’ll laugh, you’ll cry, you’ll probably even leave a little blood behind , but if you don’t bleed a little are you really even riding? Suffice it to say that this one comes with a warning label: intermediate level riders will be roundly challenged, leave the beginners at home. I heard several local nicknames for it including “Uncomfortable Bum.”

and your gut drop. Rocky and a little relentless, the intermediate options here challenge you to really be a mountain biker and not just a pedaler of fat knobbies. Meanwhile, black diamond trails like “Kill Me, Thrill Me,” “Anal Intruder,” “Shit Happens” and “No Girly Man” definitely live up to their names.

And while you’re in the vicinity, why not check out the goods in Pemberton and Squamish? Get the bike bums in Whistler chatting about these nearby destinations and you’re sure to set off a lively debate about which one is better. Bottom line: when live-in trail junkies need a little fling to liven up their long term sitch with Whistler, they look to these nearby towns to deliver the diversity they’re after. In the end, you’re the big winner because you can sample everything at once simply by renting a car (and a bike if you didn’t bring your own) and strapping on a sense of adventure.

A Rough Guide to TrailsLost LakeThis impressive collection of trails is just an easy spin to the north and east of the village. Large maps are posted at major intersections and all the trails are clearly marked with names and grades (most through this area are green or blue). Serene and immaculately maintained, this is a great place to start out. The trail builders are constantly upgrading and adding delightful new bits of furniture, so there’s a surprise around every corner: tight turns, rock gardens and lots of woodwork. Though these are some of the most accessible and well-ridden trails in town, they’re highly respected by locals and visitors alike. Two 24-hour races come through the network each year and the legendary weekly Toonie Ride series (it costs two Canadian dollars to enter) makes frequent use of it as well. Many trails take their names from Frank Zappa’s back catalogue; songs such as

Riverside TrailsWhen all that shredding gets the best of you, take a break and head to Function Junction on the south side of town. From there you can take the very mellow (and descriptively named) blue-graded Riverside Trail and wander alongside the Cheakamus River. It dips and bobs and swoops, without asking too much of you, then leads you to a stunning suspension bridge that gives an over-the-top view of the rapids below. If you’re feeling frisky, follow a steep, loose rock climb to a sweet little spot called Logger’s Lake. Have a seat and soak up the serenity. The rest of the trails in this part of town (Southside) offer a little of everything from smooth flow, technical singletrack and even a long doubletrack excursion to Brandywine Falls. “See Colours

and Puke” is named for what happens if you mishandle the descent: this twisty, rocky plunge loses half a mile of elevation in a little over a mile of trail.

North Side TrailsThis area is home to some great dirt (and rock). Super fitness-oriented riders will like the Soo Valley Loop for training; it’s a nice climb heading out up the back of Cougar Mountain with a steady descent on the way back. “Kill Me, Thrill Me” is another signature Whistler cross-country trail and features some of the world’s best technical trail building: kill a few hours here for sure. (Advanced warning: no singletrack rider from the U.S. is likely to consider Kill Me a classic XC trail, but such is the draw of Whistler). Finally, “The Backyard” is a collection of interlinked trails

that deliver a great playground for those who want to hunker down and work on handling skills.

Bear Back Biking Lodge: Get Cozy with the Cool KidsIf you’re headed north for a highly shreddable vacation on wheels, there’s only one place to stay: the Bear Back Biking Lodge. Tucked into a beautiful home, the lodge is modeled after the European chalet model, offering modest rooms at great prices and providing everything you need and nothing you don’t. In the morning, the chipper staff serves up a filling breakfast around a family style table before everyone heads out for the day. Dinner is also communal–and the perfect opportunity to rehash tall trail tales over a bowl of warm soup or delicious selection from the grill.

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050Head down to the garage in the morning to sort out your rig, then go out with a guide for a personalized introduction to the surrounding trails that are like none other. Guides double as coaches too, so if you’re still trying to figure out exactly how to nail that quarter-punch, you’ll have plenty of expertise to tap into while you’re in the thick of things.

Bear Back offers airport pickup and drop-off (a dream considering that otherwise it’s a two or three-hour bus ride from Vancouver to Whistler, sometimes with puking children) and the diverse staff of talented and enthusiastic riders can handle everyone from mega-fit cross-country racer types to downhill adrenaline junkies. Those kids are patient and funny and they’ll make sure you have the time of your life.

If you’re lucky enough to stay up late drinking red wine with co-owner Mark Knight, be sure to ask him to tell you about riding across Africa … or road racing in Europe if that’s your jam. He’s a class act and you’ll be better to have known him.

Whistler RefuelBesides being populated with more than its fair share of beautiful people, it is also home to some pretty amazing food and drink.

21 Steps: I’m not going to tell you how to eat your steak filets, but let’s just say that wrapped in bacon probably isn’t a bad option. Also, the Hendrick’s margarita proves that gin is a top-notch multi-tasker: you will not be disappointed.

Alta Bistro (left): This cozy restaurant has a friendly vibe and warm feeling. Good for small groups but also romantic enough for a night of nose-nuzzling (I witnessed this firsthand!), they have a focus on providing local food, incredible wine selections and creative beverages. Try the John Daly: Peppercorn-infused bourbon, apricot Giffard, fresh lime, vanilla, and black iced tea built on the rocks in a Mason jar.

The Bearfoot Bistro: I crashed this place pretty late into the evening when most of the diners were wrapping up. The bar is the real

deal—lavish and a little lush—with a well-mannered, strapping fellow standing behind it who is ready to duck down into the insane wine cellar (which houses more than 20,000 bottles) or stir you up a Bloody Mary made with bacon-infused vodka. Feeling plush? Step into the Belvedere Ice Room and sample a range of 50 vodkas from around the world. Yes, you’re a baller. Congratulations. Eat the food here too, ok? You’re going to thank me for this one.

Creekbread: Pizza Cooked in a wood burning earthen oven. Made with organic produce. Served with

beer. Really good beer. Have I made myself clear?

Gone Bakery: Loved by locals and tourists alike, Gone serves up fresh and inexpensive cookies, baked goods, sandwiches, soups and snacks made from scratch. For a sweet mid-ride treat somewhere way up the trail, pull in here first (there’s a load of bike parking) and pick up something to stuff in your back pocket.

Mogul’s Coffee House: The (young, fit and extremely rad) guides I spent my time with tipped me off about this one. They make a

cookie the size of a small planet—perfect for gnawing on while people watch from the comfort of a cozy chair. Good coffee, too.

Southside Diner: I ate breakfast here twice, which is something I almost never do when I’m executing a fact-finding mission. This is your down-n-dirty greasy spoon breakfast done with a little flair and delivered with the tiniest dash of attitude (the good kind). You’ll laugh at the menu, moan at the food and probably make friends with a table of 8 dudes drinking beer at 10:00 a.m. This place is full of stoke. Get some. SIm

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WHISTLER REFUEL21STEPS.CAALTABISTRO.COMBEARFOOTBISTRO.COMCREEKBREAD.COM(604) 938-1957 (GONE BAKERY)(604) 932-4845 (MOGUL’S COFFEE HOUSE)SOUTHSIDEDINER.CA