4-player pedestal arcade cabinet for mame

instructables

4-Player Pedestal Arcade Cabinet for MAME

by severdhed

This will show you how I constructed my 4 player MAME pedestal cabinet. There are a lot of things you may wantto customize to your liking. I will show you how i made mine, you can feel free to tweak it to your liking. Thishouses a standard windows PC to run the MAME arcade emulator, and outputs to a 42" LCD TV.

Step 1: Items You Will Need:

Supplies:

3/4" MDF or plywood ( i used 6 pre-cut 2ftx4ft sheets of MDF, it is a little more expensive, but easierto transport and work with)T-Molding: 30ft30" piano hingesmall chain or rope ( to support lid when open, 2 ft should be plenty)screw in leg levelers

4-Player Pedestal Arcade Cabinet for MAME:

http://www.instructables.com

http://www.instructables.com/id/4-Player-Pedestal-Arcade-Cabinet-for-MAME/

http://www.instructables.com/member/severdhed/

small carriage bolts for mounting joysticks (size can vary, based on which joysticks you use)t-nuts of various sizes (4 for mouting legs, 4 smaller ones for each joystick)Wire, two colors, at least 50 ft (i think i used 18guage)crimp-on female wire disconnects ( i used about 100 of them)zip ties (optional, but great for cable management) wood screwswood gluepaint1/8" plexiglass slightly larger than the surface of the control panel (my panel is 18" x 46")wood screws of various sizes.one 8ft 2x4 boardabout 20ft total of 1x2 pine boardabout 10 feet of 1x4 pine board ( you could also use MDF, if you dont' mind the cutting)

TOOLS:

circular sawjig sawRouter with straight bit, v-groove bit, flush trim bit, and 1/16" slot cutterdrill with 1 1/8" Forstner bit, various small drill bits for bolt holes.3" hole sawvarious clampsscrew drivermeasuring tapestraight edgesquarepencils/markerratcheting wire crimpers (don't bother with the non ratcheting kind, you will be doing a lot ofcrimping, spend the $15 on a ratcheting crimper from harbor freight, your hands will thank you)wire strippers

OTHER:

4 arcade joysticks ( I used Ultimarc J-Stiks/Sanwa JLWs)3" Arcade trackball with USB interface ( i used an Electric Ice-T Deluxe from groovygamegear.com)31 - arcade pushbuttons (i used HAPP concave pushbuttons)USB Control interface ( I used an iPac 4 from Ultimarc)trackball mounting platePC for emulation (PC specs depend on what games you wish to use. a 3ghz pentium 4 for 4gb ofram should be plenty for mame, you may need more if you choose to add PC games or other


emulators)display ( i used a 42" vizio 1080p TV)

Step 2: Plan Out Your Cabinet

I designed this cabinet build around simplicity. I didn'twant to try to haul full sheets of MDF in my minivanby myself, so I used pre-cut 2ft x 4ft pieces of MDFfor the construction. This means that no panel islarger than 2ft x 4ft. also, this prevented me fromhaving to cut a bunch of long straight cuts. the front,back and both sides are 24" wide, so there was verylittle cutting involved. I started off using GoogleSketchUp to design the unit, then tweaked it until itlooked right. I was going for simple. I've included adiagram with the dimensions of the boars you willneed to make it like mine.

You also need to plan out what type of controls youwish to have, and how many buttons per player. Thiscan vary based on which types of games you want to

be able to play. I personally wanted a 3" trackball forcentipede and millipede, as well as bowling/golfgames. If you are just using MAME, you only need amax of 4 buttons per player for 4 player games, butsome of the 1 and 2 player games need more (mostlyfighting games) i opted for 4 buttons for players 3 and4, and 7 buttons for players 1 and 2. (player 3 and 4are off to the sides because they aren't used asmuch, leaving players 1 and 2 in the center of thepanel. Most fighting games only use 6 buttons, butthe 7th button comes in handy. This way i have 4buttons on the top row to simulate the Neo Geolayout. I also have a few none mame games that iplay on here through steam, including Mortal Kombat9, Injustice, and Street Fighter 4.

Step 3: Build the 2x4 Base

Start by building a rectangular base for the cabinet out of 2x4s. Tt needs to be 24" wide x 21.5" deep. I used woodglue and some screws to hold it together.


Step 4: Cut Out the First Side

Draw out the shape of your first side onto one of the 2ftx4ft sheets of MDF. Once you are happy with it, cut it outusing your circular saw.

Step 5: Use First Side As a Template for the Second Side.

Take your first side that you cut out, clamp it to an other sheet of MDF, then use the router with a flush trim bit tocut out the second side, this way they will be identical.


Step 6: Attach 1x2 Pine Braces to Sides

cut some 1x2 pine boards into strips and screw/gluethem to the sides for bracing. they should be flushwith the top edge, and set back 1.25" from the frontand back edges. also stop about 4" from the bottomto allow room for the base you built earlier. I attachedthese with short wood screws and glue. (make sure

the screws aren't too long, or they will break throughthe sides.

Do this for both sides, making sure you flip one sothat these strips end up on the inside of the cabinet.


Step 7: Cut the T-Molding Slot on the Side Panels.

First you will want to round over both of the bottom corners of your side boards to create a smooth transition foryour molding, i used a jigsaw.

Before assembling the cabinet, now would be a good time to cut the slots for the T molding. Use your router with a1/16" slot cutter bit for this, make sure it is centered in the MDF. I cut the slot along the front, bottom and backsides, it is not necessary on the top.

Step 8: Start Assembly

build a top brace out of 1x2 boards, 24" wide by 10.5" deep. this will be the brace for the top.

once this is done, using wood glue and screws, attach the 2x4 base and the top brace to one of the sides of thecabinet.

as you can see, i also mounted some leg levelers to the bottom 2x4 base using t-nuts. These are simply threadedinto the t-nuts and can be adjusted to keep the cabinet level.


Step 9: Attach Second Side Panel

Repeat the last step for the other side, attach it with glue and screws. At this point, you can then stand yourcabinet upright.


Step 10: Insert Bottom Panel and Rear Panel.

I cut my bottom panel from some scrap OSB i hadlying around. If I had it to do over again, i'd use MDF.i cut it to fit inside the bottom of the cabinet, andscrewed it to the 2x4 base. I used a 1" spade bit todrill some air vents in the bottom.

I also cut the bottom rear panel and attached it. It is

8" high and 24" wide. I used a 3" hole saw to make ahole. This hole is for the power/video cables. Thispanel is attached only using wood glue. the top edgeof this board is beveled to match the angle of theback panel. this way the back door panel can sit flushon top of it.

Step 11: Cut and Attach Front Panel.

cut the front panel to size and attach it using wood glue.


Step 12: Cut and Attach Rear Panels

The top rear panel is 24 x 5.75" with a hole in the center for a standard PC fan. I used a hole saw for this, i beleive3" as well. This is glued in place.

the back door is cut to size, and just sits in place. It is held in by gravity. I ended up installing a barrel lock at thetop to keep it shut.

Step 13: Build the Box for the Control Panel

Using some 1x4 pine boards and the measurements form the included diagram, build a base for the control paneland glue it together. it should be slightly smaller than the top of the panel so that there will be some overhang. Thebottom of mine is made from OSB again, but it would be better with MDF. Once the box is complete, screw or boltit to the base.


Step 14: Prepare Control Panel Top

Cut out the shape of your control panel, making surethere is an overhang over your box you just built.Mark the locations of your controls. Take lots of timeplanning this, you will be stuck with it for a while. Idrilled small pilot holes at each button/joysticklocation. Then drill out all button holes and joystickholes with a 1 1/8" Forstner bit. Take your time and

do it right. I used a drill guide i picked up at harborfreight to keep the drill at a right angle to the wood.

Also, using a 3" hole saw, drill out the hole for yourtrackball.


Step 15: Recess Area for Joysticks

I wanted to mount my joysticks from below, with no visible bolts. I used some japanese sticks (Sanwa JLW)because they can easily be switched from 8 way to 4 way mode. (i didn't want the clutter of a dedicated 4 waystick). when undermounted on a 3/4" panel, the sticks were just too short. To fix this, i used the router to recess apocket for the joysticks to sit in. i routed away about half the thickness of the panel in these areas.


Step 16: Cut Trackball Hole in Plexiglass

I didn't want any visible bolts in the panel, so i had touse a trackball mounting plate. I also didn't want thisto be visible. It will be flush mounted under theplexiglass and artwork. Before i could do that, i had tocut the trackball hole in the plexiglass. This was done

by clamping the plexiglass to the panel so that therewas a small overlap on all sides. then using the 3"hole as a template, i used the router with a flush trimbit to cut the 3" hole in the plexiglass.

Step 17: Prepare Trackball Mount

now that the plexiglass is cut, remove it and set itaside for later. now lining up the hole in the trackballplate with the hole in the wood, trace around thetrackball mounting plate...and remove it. then insertthe trackball in the hole, upside down, and tracearound it's footprint....then remove it

the plate will have 4 bolts welded onto it, mark theirlocations as well, and drill ou the holes for the bolts.

using your jigsaw, cut out the hole large enough forthe trackball assembly to fit through.

the final part of this step is to use the router to createa recessed area for the plate to fit in, so that it sitsflush with the surface of the wood.


Step 18: Prepare Joystick Mounts

using the base of your joystick as a template, line itup with the joystick holes you drilled and mark thelocations of the bolt holes. drill these out with theappropriate size drill bit.

once again, we dont want any mounting hardwarevisible through the panel, so we are using T-nuts to

mount them. use a spade bit to create a recess foreach of the t-nuts so that they sit flush with the top ofthe panel.

then insert your t-nuts and trackball mounting plate.


Step 19: Cut Button Holes in Plexiglass

Place your plexiglass back onto your panel, beingsure to line up the trackball hole and making surethere is an overlap on all sides, then clamp it in place.i placed my hole saw in the hole just to help keep itlined up.

This part requires patience, take your time so youdon't crack your plexiglass. I do this in two parts. thefirst part is to create a pilot hole. i use a V-groove bitand slowly lower it down into each of the buttonholes. take your time and it will cut through theplexiglass like a hot knife through butter.

(make sure you wear safetly glasses, it willthrough little pieces everywhere)

once you have your pilot holes, switch to the flushtrim bit in your router. the bearing will roll around thebutton hole, making perfect holes in your plexiglass.you can insert a few pushbuttons in the holes to helpkeep everything from sliding around.

you can then remove the plexiglass and set it aside.


Step 20: Cut Slot for T-molding

now you will cut the slot for your t-molding. Standard molding is 3/4" thick, the same as your MDF. However youwant the molding to sit flush with the plexiglass. To do this, you need to offset your slot by the thickness of yourplexiglass. This will mean that some of the MDF will stick out below the molding, to eliminate that, i used aroundover bit on the bottom side of the panel, which hides the excess.


Step 21: Make Sure Everything Fits and Is Right

I decided to mount my controls and make sure everything felt right before installing the artwork.

Step 22: Drill Hole for Fan and Door Lock

I mounted a standard pc case fan in the back to blow hot air out of the case. I used a barrel lock to keep the doorin place. You just need to drill the appropriate holes in the back panels


Step 23: Add Barrel Lock for Power Switch and Coin Buttons

I mounted my coin buttons in the box under the panel.this keeps the panel less cluttered. simply decidewhere you would like them and drill out the holes withyour 1 1/8" forstner bit.

i also mounted a barrel lock in the front center. this is

mounted so that it is hanging straight down in it'sresting state, when you turn the key, the lock portionactivates a microswitch which is wired to the PCpower button. this step is not necessary, but makesfor a nice way to turn the cabinet on.

Step 24: Paint

The next step is to prime and paint. i used some Kilz 2 latex primer, followed by some Behr black semigloss with aroller.


Step 25: Attach Panel With Hinge

install the piano hinge on the panel so that it is fastened at the rear. as you can see, i was running low on paint so ididn't pain the inside of the control panel box, i wish i would have though.


Step 26: Artwork

I designed the control panel artwork in photoshop.Take your time and make sure it looks good whenviewing it at full size. I made that image at 48 x 20" at300dpi...it was a huge file. I had a photographer friendprint it off on his big awesome printer on premiumlustre photo paper. You will want to make sure theartwork is slightly larger than your panel so you don'thave to worry about the edges. (If you dont' haveaccess to a large format printer, staples can do it, orthere are places online that specialize this this kind of

thing, some that will even print on adhesive vinyl)

Once you have your artwork, place it on the controlpanel and line it up perfectly. I placed a bright lightunder the panel so i could see where the button holeswere through the paper. then clamp it in place and cutout each of the button, joystick and trackball holeswith an x-acto knife. take your time. I placed buttonsin the holes as I went, just to keep it from moving.


Step 27: Trim Artwork, Add T-Molding

Re-install the plexiglass and install the controls. using your x-acto knife, trim around the outside of your panel toremove excess paper. once that is cleaned up, install your t-molding around the panel.

Step 28: Install T-Molding on Cabinet Base

This is self explanatory. Install the T molding on the base of the cabinet.


Step 29: Wire Up the Controls.

Find a spot to mount your control interface. I mountedmine near the center of the panel to keep the wiringas short as possible.

Each button will have a microswitch, and eachjoystick will have 4. Using your ratcheting crimpers,crimp on a wire disconnect and connect it to the NOterminal on the switch, then route your wire to animput on the ipac. THis needs done for each

microswitch.

Once that is done, you need to connect a ground wireto every GRND terminal on every switch. These donot need to be discrete wires, you can chain themtogether. You will be crimping a ton of connectors.Take your time to route the wires nicely, you willthank yourself later.


Step 30: Wire Up Your Trackball

Mount your trackball into the mounting plate and connect it to your usb mouse interface. The one i used also hasLED lighting that needs to be connected to a 5v and ground. The Optiwiz that came with my trackball provides this.


Step 31: Add a PC and Monitor.

This part is so difficult to document because eachperson's needs are different.

I mounted a 42" LCD tv on the wall for my display.

There is planty of space inside the base of thecabinet to store a PC. I used an older AMD phenom II

x4 machine with 8gb of ram, running windows 7 x64. Idon't plan on going into great detail on setting up thePC, there are many other sources for this info. Thisinstructable was for building the cabinet. If you needmore inspiration or assistance, check out the forumsat arcadecontrols.com


Step 32: Enjoy.

If you followed the instructions, you should end up with an awesome 4 player pedestal cabinet. Here you can seethe final product, with the original sketchup render.


Sorry about the confusion. I just measured it and you are correct. the dimensions of the top internalbrace are 24" x 10.5", not 13" I updated the steps to reflect the proper measurements.

i did not cut the top brace at an angle, it is just a basic rectangle.

Made a couple mistakes along the way, but it still turned out pretty good! Thanks very much for thehowto severdhed!

i'm pretty sure it is 18" front to back, but it has been so many years since i built this, i don'tremember exactly. I'll do my best to remember to measure it tonight when i get home.

Thanks much! I was thinking it might be 20 inches because that is how big your image was?Thanks for checking? I am curious about how big the lip or overhang is on the front too. Probably1-2 inches...

Again, this is awesome, great steps and tips!

The top is 18"deep by 46" wide. The image was 1"bigger in each side so I didn't have to worryabout minor size discrepancy when aligning it.

The overhang at the front is about ¾". On the angled parts it is 1¾"

The bottom of the control panel box is screwed in to the top supports in the base with 6 screws..

I am thinking about making this project.Does anyone have an estimated cost for the build - PC and TV?I do realize prices change quickly, but i do need to sace up for it.thanks in advance...

I’m doing it and without factoring buying a tv and using my own or borrowing tools it is $700 for me.That is assuming $100 for a old eBay computer.

I did this project for a guy in the Army who is going to put the video game set up in it.


awesome work, great job

I’ve built this and am now getting my tail kicked and hitting my head on the wall trying to figure outthe programming part. I can get things to work one way then the rest fall apart. Do you have anyguidance. At this point I’ll pay someone to set it up.

i'll try to help out if I can. The reason i didn't include that is that there are so many variablesbetween different computer hardware, operating systems, front ends, mame versions, controllerinterfaces...it's hard to make a good general guide. Tell me about your setup and what kind ofproblem you are having and i'll try to help. the forums at arcadecontrols.com are a great source ofinformation and assistance, if you aren't already a member there, i highly recommend it.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/

I’ll check it out as well.

So my set up is yours to a T. (At first). I have rocket launcher and hyper spin on a desktopcomputer. And I finally got that working but for some reason the roms I have and rocketlauncherdon’t always want to launch even though they are good roms, and they show green onrocketlauncher in audit.

After month or two with that I have a friend that created a pi for his arcade. And works and runsgreat. But now only reads my ipac4 as a keyboard and doesn’t recognize the tracker ball.

So seems if I get one thing working the rest doesn’t and when I solve the other problem anothercomes up.

I've never even heard of rocket launcher, so I won't be much help there.. I did try hyperspin when itfirst came out, i always preferred to use MaLa for my front end. For your roms not launching, dothey work if you launch them from the command prompt? Are they matched to the version of mameyou are using?as for it not recognizing your controls...unless they have changed a lot since i bought mine, theipac 4 is only ever detected as a keyboard. If you exit your front end back to the windows desktop(assuming you are running windows on your desktop computer, does moving the trackball moveyour mouse cursor?

Rocketlauncher is the new backend that goes with hyperspin. Yes I can play the roms outside ofrocketlauncher. I think I’m going to stick with the pi just need to figure out how to reconfigure pi toread as a 4 player keyboard like I could with hyperspin

Made some changes to the basic design, Raspberry Pi internals, but space for all my old consolesbelow it. The top sheet is actually custom direct printed .20 acrylic. Left enough space to add atrackball if I want.

would you be willing to share that image? would love to use on the one im building

Attached to this -Not sure if they downsample though. - Two images - Board area, and layouttemplate. I used . added a PDF of the hole cut pattern for the buttons/joystick.


http://arcadecontrols.com

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/

The buttons/Joystick holes were made for the following - The red area for the joysticks are full cuts,the grey is only 1/16"contersink.https://www.amazon.com/Easyget-LED-DIY-Joystick-Il...

Thank you so much!

awesome, i like it

Just wrapped up the project, a big thank you to severehed! Went with an X-Men theme to rekindlemy inner 90s spirit.

that looks great. good job.

I highly recommend not adding buttons for administrative fictions. Sure, it will be fine if you are theonly one using it, but i guarantee that as soon as you have something like that mapped to a button,or even a button combination, someone will press it and screw everything up. That is what peopledo. I have 4 children. I can go and play on this thing for hours without a single issue.... if one ofthem is sitting there for 2 minutes, suddenly nothing works. Once things are setup properly, youshouldn't need to access the mame config. I suggest keeping a wireless keyboard and mouseunder the top panel and pull it out when you need to make changes...you will thank me later.

Has anyone come up with an easy way to switch between the emulator front end and say steamos? I'd like to use this for things like Towerfall or Brawhalla as well(or any fighting games on steamsuch as killer instinct etc).

Many Frontends are able to have Steam Games in their collection, or one can use programs thatadd Emulation games into Steam's Big Picture mode.

Also, you could set hotkey combos with an app like joytokey to close or open applications. Setdifferent key profiles when specific apps are in focus.

You could probably add a shortcut to the frontend for steam via a batch file. Getting full screen andrefocusing the frontend on exit is my problem, but i know it can be done. Perhaps closing thefrontend when steam opens and reopening it when it exits. Command line arguments should do thetrick. Im currently running Emulationstation (Portable) in win10. It always leaves a commandprompt window open in the background. Anything outside of Retroarch fails to refocus the frontendon exit. Would love the see the shutdown command work too. It works fine on the rpi version. Herbdid us a favor making a windows portable version, but some of the commands didnt get changedfor the difference in OS. Im not a programmer, else id compile a fixed version myself.

I have multiple steam games on mine, but i'm not using steam OS. I use the MaLa frontendlauncher for my emulators. You can have a folder full of batch files that launch PC games andMaLa will treat them like roms. I use this to launch several steam games, including:

Mortal Kombat 9Mortal Kombat 10Street Fighter iVInjustice: Gods among us


https://www.amazon.com/Easyget-LED-DIY-Joystick-Illuminated/dp/B00WAZK5K8

Shovel Knightpacman championship editionand a few others i can't think of right now.

Thanks for posting this. It inspired me to start building my own.

thats awesome, great job. I'm glad i could help.

I am making this project and noticed that you have 6 buttons for players 3 & 4. Is there a reason tohave that many buttons for those players? Everything I’ve read indicates you only need 4 buttonsfor players 3 & 4.

I did not really think about it when I built it. I based by panel off the north coast custom arcadespanel. They actually have more buttons per player. For the arcade games that I have played youwould be fine with 4 buttons on player 3 and 4. It would allow you a little more room on the panel.My only minor complaints about my panel are that the player 2 joystick is a little close to thetrackball. But I couldnt put it much further away. If you only had 4 buttons on player 4 you couldmove it out a bit. My player 3 joystick (one on the left) is difficult for me to use because of the angleyou have to place your wrist. Most sites recommend placing you joystick so that up is alwaystoward the screen. I did this and it is fine for player 4 (one on right) but your wrist is at an odd anglefor player 3. I find myself not always going the direction I want. Less buttons may help a little. Inreality though for the games that you play 4 player on it doesnt really matter. Most 4 player gamesare beatem up type games and precision does not make that much of a difference. Having morebuttons would be helpful if you plan on having console games or steam games on the cabinet.Long story short I just went loosely off someone elses panel and I liked the symmetry. By the waysorry my apostroph button doesnt work.

Sure, here you go. It is a very large file, about 1gb zipped. It is the photoshop PSD file designed at300dpi at 48"x18". I tried to keep it fairly organized with the layers and folders and such, there aresome layers in there that were experimental stuff i was trying out. Help yourself.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!Avg_9cabCZ9NkFzrLxqp5VpBzf-g

severdhed, thanks for all your instructions and artwork, they are great! Would you also be willing toshare the dimensions on the control where you mounted all the buttons, joystics and trackball?

I never documented the button hole locations, i didn't have a template for them when i installedthem. I'll try to take a few measurements and post them over the next day or so.

Wow, that's awesome thanks! Looks much nicer than my own very poor attempt at coming up withsomething Gauntlet branded.

Thanks very much Severdhed for sharing your build. We used your instructions to build an Arcadefor the local Rec Center in Locust Point, Baltimore, MD. It's an over-clocked Raspberry Pi 3 withmini heat sinks/fan running Retropie with a Comic Book Theme. We couldn't figure out how toconfigure within emulation station/retroarch a single exit button for ease of use, so we used diodesconnected from our intended exit button to the hotkey & start buttons to trick a two button presswith one and we used a toddler's magnetic lock for the top cabinet. Kids & adults are loving it!


https://1drv.ms/u/s!Avg_9cabCZ9NkFzrLxqp5VpBzf-g

https://www.instructables.com/member/severdhed/

Thats awesome, great job.

Thanks! We also added a 7-day power timer to turn on/off the cabinet/Raspberry Pi and a Arduinomicrocontroller/Uno with IR LED to send the IR signal to power on the TV after decoding the IRhexadecimal code, IR protocol and bit length replay using IR library example code and code fromcircuitbasics.com.

Thanks again Severdhed!

that looks awesome

Off to pick up my vinyl top sheet to go under the acrylic on friday! currently a raspberry pi Retropiearcade, but with plans to use an AMD Phenom II x6 with a GTX 970 and 16gb ram in the nearfuture. December will bring some Ultimarc light guns to the project!

awesome. I've been tempted to pick up some of those ultimarc guns for a while now. Nice build.

Thanks. I used your template and stretched the dimensions a hair. top sheet is 2' x 4'. i think it sitsa inch or 2 taller. Finally complete. although, i think rom organization is going to take the rest of mylife... I started some Perler Art to theme out the room. another tedious endeavor. I can already tellthat the raspberry pi isn't going to cut it for 4 player 64.

I noticed you angled the forward direction for players 3 and 4. From severdhed's design, it doesn'tlook like he angled player 3 and player 4's joysticks. Does your player 3 and 4 setup work well? I'mthinking of doing it the same way.

Do you offer the plans for this cabinet?

This instructable is pretty much the plans for the cabinet. If you look at it, there is a diagram withdimensions of the pieces, and a guide on how i built it. What more do you need?

thought there might be a image file of the control layout to print

I'm planning on building the control panel from this cab to use with a RetroPie. I've never doneanything like this before, so it'll be a great experience, ha... The polish on yours looks fantastic, thedetails like the "correct" colors for the arcade sticks and buttons, and even the rings around yourplayer buttons look great. Did you go out of your way to piece that stuff together? I've been lookingat Ultimarc's site pricing out the sticks and I can't seem to find an orange ball top listed anywhere!Did you actually buy 4 red j-sticks and then just swap out 3 of the ball tops? I know you did this along time ago, so maybe there product line has changed, but I just can't seem to find it.

I think I just realized you used the coin button housing as the player buttons up top, which was avery clever thing to do.


http://circuitbasics.com

Thanks for this awesome guide. I'm excited to slowly purchase all the supplies and get my own puttogether!

Thanks for the kind words. You are right, i swapped the centers of the player buttons with the coinbuttons to give it that added touch.

I did buy the balltop Jsticks from ultimarc, and then purchased four Hand Candy balltops fromgroovygamegear.com. They arent a 100% perfect color match for the happ buttons, but they arepretty close.

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=368

This is also where i purchased my trackball, buttons and T-molding.

good luck with your build!

Be sure to add Broforce to your library if you havent already. We've had countless hours for 4player fun!


4-player pedestal arcade cabinet for mame

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