3olive magazine - march 2014
DESCRIPTION
olive magazine march 2014TRANSCRIPT
eat inEAT OUT✴EAT AWAY
Eat in✴Tom Kerridge’s herb-crusted lamb,slow-roast pork belly and treacle tart
✴Easy Italian menu for friends✴The new lemon drizzle
Eat out✴The best pubs you’ll ever eat in
Eat away✴Plan a weekend in Rome
Oh my, what a pie!
YOUR SPECIAL SUBSCRIBER’S COVER
The pub issue
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MARCH 2014 O 3
At O, we’re very particularabout what makes a good pub –a fancy cocktail list and linen naperydon’t cut it for us.There’s got to beroom to eat in the bar area.We wantto see snacks like scotch eggs andhomemade pork scratchings chalkedup on the blackboard.A pie isessential. Name-checking local
suppliers on the menu is a bonus, and it needs be somewhere wecan drop in for a glass of wine or a swift half with no obligationto eat. In this special pub-inspired issue, we’ve highlighted ourdos and don’ts, asked chefs to recommend their favouritewatering holes and have six exclusive recipes from the mightyTom Kerridge.Tom’s come up with comforting Sunday lunch classics each
with a new twist. Pork belly is served with a black pudding mashand mustard sauce, and everyone’s favourite dessert, treacle tart,is made with brioche. If you’d like to be in with the chance ofwinning dinner atTom’s pubThe Hand and Flowers, plus aKenwood ChefTitanium worth £599.99, nominate yourfavourite pub pie – see page 23 for details and enter online atlulusnotes.com (it should take all of 5 minutes) – good luck!See you next issue, on sale 5 March.
THISMONTH’S£20MENUFOR4
NEW! Your favourite food magazine is evolving. If you’re a regular reader you’ll notice some changes
this issue. We’ve includedMORE RECIPES in the eat in section and flagged these up as either weekend
(when you can enjoy a few hours shopping and in the kitchen) andeveryday – stylish after-work ideas
when you want to eat something imaginative but have less time. We know you love our unique mix of
recipes, restaurants and food-inspired travel, so we’ve combined the eat out and eat away sections so
that everything is in one place, helping you to plan this month’s food experiences more easily.
And don’t forget, for even more recipes, trends and tips, visit our blog lulusnotes.com.
CHRISTINE HAYES, EDITOR
Stay in touch!Email me at:[email protected] @Omagazine like Omagazine
NEVERMISSANISSUESubscribe toO this month and you’llreceive a copy of Tom Kerridge’s Proper
Pub Food. Plus, you’ll save 20% on theshop price when you pay by Direct Debit.
Call0844 848 9747and quoteOLP314A. See page 57 for more details.
Perfect for a cosy Sunday lunch with friends
99999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999
✴ Leekandpotatosoupp46
✴ Potroastchickenp28
✴ Bourbonbreadandbutterpuddingp41
WelcomeTOMARCH
£4.96PER PERSON
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9-17 TRENDS, BUYS, PEOPLE
Cheddar popovers, abargain shiraz and fiveon-trend ingredientsunder £10
16 READER OFFER:
Donald Russelltraditional steak selection
18 FINAL DRAUGHT
Our formula for theperfect pub
23 BRITAIN’S BEST PUB
PIE COMPETITION
Nominate your favourite57 SUBSCRIBE TOO
Receive a copy ofTomKerridge’s Proper PubFood cookbook
87 NEXT MONTH'SO
108 READER OFFER:
Five-piece ceramic panset only £49.99
116 SMALL PRINT
26 SUNDAY LUNCH CLASSICS
Six exclusive recipes fromchef Tom Kerridge
33 THE BIG EASY
Recipes inspired by laid-back Louisiana, includingbourbon bread puddingand mini doughnuts
44 WHAT’S IN SEASON
Salmon, goats cheese, leeks,blood orange and spring onions
53 MENU OF THE MONTH
Relaxed Italian fromCafé Murano
59 LABOUR OF LOVE
Scotch quail’s egg sliders62 COOK LIKE A LOCAL
Vietnamese recipes,including caramelchicken wings
65 WINE MATCH
Cheese fondue66 MAKE YOUR OWN
Steak and ale pudding68 DO TRY THIS AT HOME
Rich chocolate mousse
eat in weekend eat in everyday
Getthe latest issueofO indigital formats
for just£2.99,enablingyoutozoominon
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makingthemperfect for
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Plus!Seeourstylishrangeofapps,
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MAKE OUR COVER RECIPEChicken, cider andsmoky bacon puff pie1 hour ■ Serves 4-6 ■ EASY
cider300ml
skinless, boneless chicken breasts4
butter50g
echalion shallots 2,sliced(oruse4normal)
smoked streaky bacon6rashers,chopped
plain flour2tbsp
strong chicken stock200ml
double cream 170mlpot
wholegrain mustard 1 tbsp
tarragon 1/2smallbunch,chopped
parsley1/2 smallbunch,chopped
beaten egg forglazing
butter puff pastry 300g
■ Puttheciderinawide,shallowpanand
bringtoasimmer.Addthechicken,coverand
cookfor10minutes,turninghalfway,then
scoopout,coolandtearorcutintochunks.
Putthepanbackontheheatandreducethe
ciderbyhalf.
■ Heatthebutterinaseparatepanandcook
theshallotsuntilsoftened.Addthebaconand
cookuntilcrispedupabitthenaddtheflour
andstir inwell.Graduallyaddthereduced
ciderandchickenstockandbringtoasimmer.
Addcreamandsimmeruntilthickenedabit,
thenstir inthewholegrainmustard,parsley
andtarragon.Seasonwell.Stirthechicken
intothesaucethenputinanovenproofdish.
■ Heattheovento200C/fan180C/gas6.Roll
thepastryouttoa20pthicknessanduseto
coverthepie.Glazewithbeateneggand
decoratewithtrimmingsifyoulike.Bakefor
25-30minutesuntilpuffedandgolden.
■ PER SERVING (6) 596 kcals, protein 29.5g ,
carbs 24.8g, fat 40.8g, sat fat 21.6g, fibre 0.9g,
salt 1.6g
11 83
72 7 MEALS FOR £35
A week’s worth ofstylish suppers
81 3 WAYS WITH...
Inspired ways to use cauliflower,including a Friday night curry
85 SLIMMER DINNERS
Low-fat, low-calorie meals88 QUICK FIXES
Fast after-work dinners122 BAKE OF THE MONTH
The new lemon drizzle cake
MARCH 2014 O 5
Contents March 2014
32Thismonth
90SEASONALRECIPES
INDEX PAGE 117
OBESTPUBPIESponsored by
Nominate your favouritepie on page 23
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Contents March 2014
Lulu’s notes109 The new way to drink tea110 Fantastic Mexican cheese
and tomato, squash andspinach curry
111 A julep with a British twistand learn more aboutbarley with our beer nerd
112 Hot pepper sauce113 4 of the best steak cuts114 Buy the best storage tins115 How to use your leftovers
form
or
e tipsandrecipes
visitlulus
notes.com
103eat out& eat away92 PRO VS PUNTER
Tom Parker Bowles andO reader Anna InmanreviewThe Magazine.
94 TIME AT THE BAR
Top chefs and restaurateurstell us about their favouritewatering holes
101 BITESIZE BREAKS
Smart pubs with coolrooms plus two specialdeals for O readers
102 POSTCARD FROM
THE BLACK FOREST
Marina O’Loughlin findsthe best food hotspots
105 WEEKENDER: ROME
A local food expert’s guide107 EAT LIKE A LOCAL
Where to eat inVietnam
109
Ready-in-a-flash
recipes
Prepare before
guests arrive so
you can relax
Time-saving
ideas that give
great results
Essential cooking
techniques
explained
For meat-free
Mondays and
beyond
Tips and
advice from
O’s
food team
Great-value
recipes,
restaurants and
travel ideas
USEFULSKILL
SUPERQUICK
MAKEAHEAD
£5.50EACH
Look outfor thesehighlights
COOK’S
NOTES
SHORTCUT
VEGGIEMAIN
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6 O MARCH 2014WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
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1. Visit us at www.gousto.co.uk2. Choose the recipes you love3. Enter your discount code OLIVEFEB4. Simply cook!
How to redeem your £20 coupon
From
£4.13per meal
Healthymeals
FREEdelivery
Exclu
sive offe
r
for Olive read
ers
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honda.co.uk/drivehappily
Fuel consumption figures for Jazz 1.2 i-VTEC S in mpg (l/100km): Urban 42.8 (6.6), Extra Urban 61.4 (4.6), Combined 53.3 (5.3).CO2 emissions: 123g/km. Fuel consumption figures sourced from official EU-regulated laboratory test results, are provided forcomparison purposes and may not reflect real-life driving experience.
Model Shown: Jazz 1.2 S Manual in Milano Red Non Metallic at £10,495 On The Road (OTR). Terms and Conditions: New retail Jazz 1.2 S registered from 2 January 2014 to 31 March 2014. Subject to model and colour availability. Offersapplicable at participating dealers and are at the promoter’s absolute discretion. The advertised saving of £1,200 (including VAT) discount to the OTR price for the Jazz 1.2 S applied to the retail invoice. Honda Aspirations (PCP): *£140per month example shown based on Jazz 1.2 S in Milano Red Non Metallic at £10,995. Total cash price including 5 Year Care Package (and total amount payable) with 37 months 0% APR Representative (interest rate per annum 0% fixed)with £1,795.20 (16%) deposit, Guaranteed Future Value / Optional Final Payment of £4,159.72 annual mileage of 10,000 and excess mileage charge: 3p per mile. You do not have to pay the Final Payment if you return the car at the endof the agreement and you have paid all other amounts due, the vehicle is in good condition and has been serviced in accordance with the Honda service book and the maximum annual mileage has not been exceeded. Indemnities maybe required in certain circumstances. Finance is only available to persons aged 18 or over, subject to status. All figures are correct at time of publication but may be subject to change. Credit provided by Honda Finance Europe Plc. 470London Road, Slough, Berkshire SL3 8QY. The 5 Year Care Package includes: Servicing: All scheduled servicing, as detailed in the vehicles service book, will be covered for 5 years or 62,500 miles, whichever comes first. Warranty: Inaddition to the standard 3 year warranty the customer will receive a complimentary 2 year extended guarantee taking the warranty to 5 years or 90,000 miles, whichever comes first. Roadside Assist: In addition to the standard 3 yearsroadside assistance package the customer will receive complimentary Hondacare Assistance for a further 2 years, taking it to 5 years or 90,000 miles, whichever comes first. The 5 Year Care Package: The 5 Year Care Package is optional.It is being offered for £500 including VAT (usual value £1,545 including VAT) and is available to finance or non finance customers. Please note, should you sell the vehicle during the period of cover, the package remains with the vehicle.
for £140* a month
Drive happily ever after0% APR Representative
OTR £10,995, Customer saving £1,200
8 years as the UK’s most reliable car brand
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✴
Pub-stylesteakandchipsathome,adecent£5shirazandthebestbluecheese intheworldCompiledbyDANIELLETHEUNISSEN PhotographsSAMSTOWELL
If you only make one recipe this month, try this cheesy American take on Yorkshire pudsfrom new NYC-style steak restaurant, Stripbar and Steak (stripbarsteak.com)
STARRECIPECHEDDARPOPOVERS
MarchTRENDS • BUYS • PEOPLE
RECIPEON
PAGE 10
news & ideasST
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MARCH 2014 O 9WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
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✴STAR RECIPE
FANCY A GLASS WITH DINNER?
PickupabottleofDolphin Bay Chenin
Blanc 2012, South Africa, 12.5% (£5.79,
M&S)topartnerthisspicydish. Itsbright
limeandapplefruitcombineswellwith
thespice.
POP INTO M&S FOR A QUICK SPICY DINNER
Cheddar popovers1 hour ■ Makes 10-12 ■ EASY
Youcanbuyapopovertrayfromamazon.co.uk
oraheavynon-stickmuffintinwilldothe job
justaswell
milk 280ml
eggs2
plain flour 165g,sifted
salt
cheddar 200g,grated
■ Heattheovento200C/fan180C/gas6
andputthepopoverormuffintray intoheat
whileyoumakethemix.
■ Warmthemilkto justbeforeboilingpoint.
Whisktheeggswithelectricbeatersuntil
fluffy.Addmilkslowlythen leavetostandfor
3-4mins.Mix 1 tspsalt intotheflourand
graduallywhisktheflour intothemilkand
eggmixtureslowlyuntilyouhaveabatter.
■ Takeouttheheatedtrayandsprayor
brushwithoil.Pour inthebattertoalmost
full,dividethegratedcheddarbetweenthem
andslightlypressdown(don’tscrimponthe
cheese–thiswillgiveyouthepopover
shape).Putthetray intheoven, turndown
to180C/fan160C/gas4andbakefor 15
minutes.After 15minutes, turnthetray
aroundandbakeforafurther30minutes.
Allowtocoolslightlyandgentlytwist tohelp
easethemoutofthetray.Servewithsalted
whippedbutterortrufflebutter.
■ PER SERVING 140 kcals, protein 7.4g , carbs
11.2g, fat 7.3g, sat fat 4.2g, fibre 0.6g, salt 0.8g
Indian chicken wraps15 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY
Heat the oven to 180C/160 Fan/Gas 4
and cook the chicken tikka with
chargrilled vegetables (£3.99/250g).
When the chicken is warm, put two square
wraps (£1.45/420g) in the microwave for
1 minute. Top each wrap with chicken and
crunchy spiced slaw (£1.99/125g). Drizzle
both with the mint dressing and roll up.
£3.23PER PERSON
£6.13
WITH WINE
BOOZE
This stunningamber ale is made
in Dorset with asingle variety of
hops. It has hintsof orange and
spice and abeautiful fresh
flavour, and pairsespecially well withtraditional, hearty
pub dishes such aspies or Sunday roasts.
(£1.99, Asda,Sainsbury’s, Waitrose)
BADGERBREWERY
FIRSTGOLD
10 O MARCH 2014
SUPERMARKET SWEEP
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BUYER’SGUIDEFOOD EDITOR’S SHOPPING BASKET
JANINE
RATCLIFFE’S
TOP TIPS
MariniTartufi
producesthis truffle
and mushroom salsa
(£3.95/90g) in
Acqulagna,homeof
Italy’s trufflemarkets.
A jarof thissauce in
thecupboardmeans
youcanhavea luxury
storecupboarddinner
inunder 10minutes.
AmericanBBQisthe latest
restaurantcraze,butwithour
rainyweather,wecan’tspend
8hourseverydaytendinga
smoker.JustadashofColgin
Hickory liquid smoke,
(£2.75/118ml)adds instant
BBQflavourstobeanstews,
orslow-braisedpork.
Restaurantsarefermenting
everythingfromsourdough
tovegetablecondiments.
Fizzy,spicyKoreankimchi is
oneofthemostpopular,and
lotsof Korean red pepper
powder (£4/227g) iskey
whenmaking ityourself.
Forsupersmooth
pistachio icecream,
it’sbesttostartwith
apaste.Wetriedtens
ofvarietiesbefore
settlingonthe Sous
Chef pistachio paste
(£6.95/200g)made
with100%pistachios.
Madefromreal
violetpetals,
crystallised violet
petal pieces
(£4.95/40g)are just
therightsizetodrop
intochampagneor
sparklingwinefor
a1920’scocktail.
Nicola Lando is founderof souschef.co.uk, aone-stop shop for rareand unusual cookingingredients. Here are her
top five on-trend ingredients forunder £10.
CORNISH SMOKED SEA SALTWanttoreplicatethatbrilliant,smoky,chargrilledflavouryougetfrom
apubsteakandchipsathome?OnesecretI’vepickedupisusingsmoked
salttoaddanextralayerofflavour.Bringaribeyesteakuptoroom
temperaturethenrubwithoil,andseasonwithcrackedblackpepperand
Cornishsmokedseasalt.Heatagriddleuntilsmokinghotthencookthe
steakfor3minutesoneachsideformedium.Servewithskinnyoven
chipsanddressedwatercress. (£2.19/75g,cornishseasalt.co.uk)
news & ideas
MARCH 2014 O 11WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
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AS TRIED IN THEOOFFICE THIS MONTH
QUICK BITES
Addsomeseriousspice toyourmealtimes
withBaobabchilli jamfromTheAfricanChef.It’sbrilliant
asaspeedymarinadeforfishorchicken,
butwatchout, itreallypacksapunch. (£4.50/215g,
theafricanchef.com)
TABLE-HOPPING
THE PRINCE OF WALESPartpub,partbrasserie, this is the latest
additiontoBrixtonVillage’sknock-outdining
scene.Themenuisamixof inspired
brasseriestyledishes,suchasoxtailpaccheri
andclassics likemoulesfrites.There’salso
awood-firedoventhatturnsoutdelicious
pizzaandahighly-recommendedlamb
shankdish.
Must order:Chestnutgnocchiwithkaleand
wildmushroom,£9.50,oxtailpaccheriwith
pecorinocrumb,£11.50,assietteauchocolat
withpistachioicecream,£5.(pow-london.com)
Three pubs and a chicken shop to add to your hitlist
THE IMPERIALOncea boozer favouredby Chelsea fans (StamfordBridge isonthe
doorstep), thisFulhampubnow caters for acrowd more interested
in foodthanfootie. ChefTomHope’s menuspans lighterdishes like
salmonsashimi,with mouli, avocado,cucumber,watermelon, soyand
ginger, £8.25, throughto heartierpubclassicssuchasporkbellywith
black pudding,£15.Thepale interiorand contemporary light fittings
mean it’s suitable for aweekendbrunch with thefamily aswellas a
midweek supper.
Must order: Burrataandfennel tartwith pinenuts,£8.50, chicken
withbutternut, pecans,bluecheesemousse&honey figs,£16.50,
lavenderand honeycheesecake, £7.50. (the-imperial.co.uk)
HACK & HOPHackandHopisabrilliantnewcraftbeer
pub justoffFleetStreet intheCityofLondon.
It’sacosy localbeerhousewithamodern
interiorandtheupstairsbar is theperfect
spottoescapetheafterworkcrowd.From
itsgreatselectionofbottledbeers, try
Okell’s 1907orgofora localalesuchas
theRedwellpalealeorDevonredcider
ontap.
Must order:Scotchegg,£4.50,confitpork
belly£13.50,chocolate&chestnutterrinewith
espressosyrup,£5.(thehackandhop.com)
CHICKEN SHOP, TOOTINGThesecondbranchofChickenShopfeatures
thetrademarkrusticgoodlooksof its
KentishTownpredecessor.Withplentyof
reclaimedtimber, lowlightingandasimple
menu, itoozesall-Americancharm.Chicken
isservedbythequarter,halforwhole(£4,
£8,£14.50),withsidesofchips,slawandcorn
onthecob,£4.Wine iseither ‘house’, ‘decent
or‘good’,andthere’saselectionoflocalbeers.
Must order:Applepie,£5,dishedupfrom
thewholepieatthetableandservedwithan
enormous jugofcream.(chickenshop.com)
Keep on top of your new year’sresolutions with these smarthome delivery boxes from Gousto.Each box includes recipes andingredients for delicious healthydinners such as flaked cod in atomato sauce with giant cous cousand artichoke linguine in herb and
courgette purée.(gousto.co.uk)
TheamazingflavourcombinationsofnewCuckoobirchermueslipotswill revivifyyourbrekkie.
news & ideas
12 O MARCH 2014WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
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Katie Alice ® TM 2546896UK
The pretty design and subtle
collection are now available
across a range of vintage
inspired baking accessories
and cookware.
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Big Cup Little Cup are the firstever Fairtrade coffee pods andcome in nine different strengths,from the rich chocolatey Highwireto the punchy Millers YardEspresso. The pods are compatiblewith Nespresso machines. (£2.80/box of 10, bigcuplittlecup.com)
Love rib of beef but can’t justifythe expense or excess when thereare only three or four of you?Donald Russell’s Single Bone RibRoast (£34. 1 kg) takes less thanan hour to cook, is well marbled,dry-matured for 28 days and veryeasy to carve (donaldrussell.com)
This light andrefreshingBottlegreen pinktonic water is madewith elderflower,pomegranate andquinine, and isperfect for aninstant, refreshingG&T. (£2.99/4 x175ml, Tesco andWaitrose)
OnFacebook,we
askedyouwhich
of thesewouldyou
NOTfind inyour
perfectpub:
Findoutwhat
makesO’s
perfectpub in
our feature
onpage16.
READER POLL
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64%LOUD/ LIVE MUSIC
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Take part inour regularpolls by ‘liking’
Omagazine onfacebook or joining ourreader panel atimmediateinsiders.com
QUICK BITES
WORTH THE EXTRA
Our wine expert, Christine Austin,
chooses wines to suit your budget
Saint Clair Pioneer Block 21 Sauvignon
Blanc 2012, Marlborough, New
Zealand, 13% (Majestic Wine, £18.74)
The grapes for this wine come fromBlock 21,a single vineyard closeto the sea in the lowerWairauValleywhere cool breezes keep temperaturesdown and the grapes ripen slowly. Theresult is a flavour-packed wine, fresh and crispwith gooseberry and passion fruit notes, the taste of citrus and a long, zestyfinish. It’s perfect alongside grilled sea bass and prawns but also hits thespot with lightly spiced dishes containing coriander, lime and chilli.
Packed with blackcurrant fruit,liquorice and a touch of mint, The
Wine Selection Limestone Coast
Shiraz 2012, 14% (£5,Asda) willpartner a Monday night casseroleor a Friday night steak.
BARGAIN BOTTLE
WINES OF THE MONTH
£5
IDEAS TO STEAL
MAKE SHEPHERD’S PIE A STARA little clever presentation can turn comfortfood into something special. We love the ideaof serving individual shepherd’s pies in copperpans as seen at Mayfair pub The RunningHorse (therunninghorselondon.co.uk). Findmini pans at lakeland.co.uk or a professionalcatering company such as mrwhiteware.co.uk,from around £8.99. For an easy recipe, visitlulusnotes.com from mid-February.
14 O MARCH 2014
news & ideas
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designed by Katie Alice, will add
a touch of vintage sparkle to your
OVTL� 0UÅ\LUJLK I` OLY SV]L VM
eclectic design and her beautiful
English country garden.
Katie Alice ® TM 2546896UK
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Thispicturesquecityisbuildingupabrilliant
collectionofrestaurantsandcafés,making
itanewhotspotforfood-lovers–avoidthe
summercrowdsbygoingnow.Tuckeddown
anarrowstreet,ashortstridefromthe
universitycolleges,theshoppinghubandthe
banksoftheriverCam,The Varsity
(thevarsityhotel.co.uk,doublesfrom£140)
arguablyhasthebestviews,fromrooms
overlookingMidsummerCommon.Take
aFrench75cocktail,£9.50,uptotheroof
terracetosoakinthesurroundings.Once
you’vetouredtheuniversitygrounds,stopfor
acoffeeatFitzbillies (fitzbillies.com),a
Cambridgeinstitutionsince1927,recently
takenoverbyfoodwriterTimHaywardand
hiswife.Whilethefamousstickychelseabuns,
£2.50,arestillmadetotheoriginalrecipe,
headchefRosieSykeshasmadeafewchic
updates,withartisancoffeefromLondon’s
ClimpsonandSonsandaseasonal,daily
changinglunchanddinnermenu.For
aheartylunch,theCambridge Chop House
(cambscuisine.com)hasanexcellentvalueset
menu:twocoursesfor£13.50.Trythehaggis
fritterswithbeetrootandwhiskymayonnaise.
PickupsomehandmadeBelgianchocolates
fromChocolat Chocolat (chocolatchocolat.
co.uk)anddon’tmissThe Cambridge
Cheese Company (cambridgecheese.com).
CAMBRIDGE
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DonaldRussell takespride inproducingdeliciouslytendermeat.Theaward-winningonlinebutcher,basedinAberdeenshire,Scotland,specialises ingrass-fed,traditionally-maturedbeefandlamb,rearedbyfarmerswhocareabouttheiranimals’welfare.AtDonaldRussell,traditionalmethodsareusedtomaturebeefandlambforupto21days,allowingtimefortherichflavourstodevelopandforthemeattobecomeincrediblytender.
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Terms & Conditions: We will professionally shock-freeze your order,
at no extra charge, to help preserve the quality. Donald Russell Ltd,
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open Monday – Friday 8am – 8pm, Saturday 9am – 4pm and Sunday
10am – 4 pm. Strictly limited to 1 per household. *Free delivery is
available for UK mainland only. Additional surcharges are as follows:
Guaranteed AM delivery £4 (Tuesday – Friday); Saturday delivery £4;
Northern Ireland (Tuesday – Friday) £7. Jersey & Guernsey (Tuesday
– Friday) £7. Selected EU countries – call us to discuss. If in doubt,
please call first to check. Cannot be used in conjunction with any
other Donald Russell offer. Offer expires 31 March 2014
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their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of ordering if
you do not wish to receive these.
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ROSIETEAPOT
OBJECT OF DESIRE
Holding an almighty12 cups of tea, this gorgeous teapot fromCornishware is a must-have for loversof traditional afternoon tea and iconicBritish design. (£75, tggreen.co.uk)
16 O MARCH 2014WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
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PEOPLE WE LIKEROSS SHONHAN
Meet the man behind London’s
isakaya-inspired Japanese-style
pub, Flesh and Buns.
‘INMARCHI’LLMOSTLYBEEATINGgrilledmeats
withwarmspringsalads. Ithinkcharcoalgrillingisinevery
man’sDNA.I lovetomarinatefish,meatorchickenwith
misopastesandcookonagrill.Marchisoneofthemost
excitingtimestocookastheseasonsarechanging.
‘MY GUILTY PLEASURE IS Co-opchardonnay
vinegarandseasaltcrisps. IhavetriedALLtypes
of ‘gourmet’crispsbutthesewineverytime!
‘I DON’T OFTEN USE COOKERY BOOKSathome,but
Road,writtenbyAnirudhAroraandHardeepSinghKohli isgreatbecause itcoversseveral
of theamazingfoodregions.
‘MY FAVOURITE RESTAURANT ISBarrafina inSoho.Consistentlyexcellent food,with
agoodatmosphere– it’ssimple,honestcooking.
‘MY FAVOURITE PLACE TO VISIT IS ByronBay,Australia’smosteasterlypoint.Stress
takesabackseatwhenyou’redrinkingbeerwatchingthesunset.
‘IF YOU GAVE ME A TENNER I’dbuyoneortwoporkandstiltonsausagerolls fromThe
GingerPig.Dirtybutdelicious.’
ROSS SHONHAN
(fleshandbuns.com)
BAR-HOPPING
W0RCESTEREach month barchick.com shares the best places
to drink outside the capital
BEST HAPPY HOURHeroes isahiggledy-piggledyagilitycourseofabarwith lowceilings,
exposedbeamsandpool tables.You’ll findthecolourfulcocktail list
scribbled inchalkabovethebarandcocktailsstartatanastonishing
£3.25. (heroesworcester.co.uk)
THE MUST DOBushwackershasseenmorenaughtinessthanCharlieSheen’s
defence lawyer,andwelove it.Thisconvertedchapelstillhasan intact
crypt (currentlyanRnBroom),aswellasa largebeergardenand
glamorousglitteringchandeliers. (bushwackers.co.uk)
BEST BAR SNACKSOnthebanksoftheriverSevern, The Quay isarelaxedrestaurant
that’sbigontapas.Thesharingboardsaresecondtonone,and it’s
apicturesquespottowatchthesunset. (quayworcester.co.uk)
MAKE MINE A COCKTAILATudorfrontedbuilding litupwithfairy lights,The Old Rectifying
House iswhereyou’ll findthemostexperimentalcocktails in
Worcester,witha list thatwouldmorethanhold itsowninanycapital
city.Goforaroastedpecanoldfashioned,£7.50. (theoldrec.co.uk)
NEWEST KID ON THE BLOCKAsuburbanventurefromtheboysbehindTheLondonCocktailClub,
Keystones iskittedoutwithcomicbook-styleartworkandamazing
cocktails,all set toabrilliantsoundtrack. (keystonescocktailclub.co.uk)
NOT MANY PEOPLE KNOW ABOUTAshortwobbledownsomeunevenstepsandyou’ll findyourself
at Cellar Bar.Thiscavernous,exposedbrickbasementbar iscool
andsurprisinglycharming– it’sabitofa local treasure.
(43ForegateSt,Worcester)
MONTAGNOLOAFFINÉOur first thoughts when wethink of Bavaria are rarely ofcheese (and mostly of beer).Things are set to changehowever, with thisstunning, velvety bluecheese made by familydairy KasereiChampignon, whichtook home the firstprize at the WorldCheese Awards at theend of 2013, beating2,700 other cheeses.(£14.50/kg, Waitroseand Sainsbury’sdeli counters)
MARCH 2014 O 17
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GOOD SNACKSOlovesaproper,homemade
pubsnack: theseismicsausage
rollsatCanaryWharf’sGun
(thegundocklands.com); the
era-definingquail’sscotcheggsat
Heston’sHind’sHead(hindsheadbray.
com); therunnyscotcheggatThe
HarwoodArms,picturedhere
(harwoodarms.com).Butwe’renosnobs.
Wecan’tabidepretentiouspubsthatonlystock
wasabipeasandhand-friedrootvegetable
crispsoverScampiFriesorMiniCheddars.
Devilishlytangy,anumamiexplosion,Doritos
weresurely lab-engineeredastheperfect
partnerforacoldpint.
REAL FOOD ATREALISTIC PRICESApubisnotarestaurant.Wedon’twant
tableclothsormenusthatmimicMichelin-
starredestablishments.Arealpubwill serve
acoreofclassicpubmainsatunder£10:
sausage ‘n’mash,burger, fish ‘n’chips,
augmentedbyablackboardofgutsy, rustic
seasonalspecialswhichchangedaily.
Withsuchspecials,achefcanflexcreative
muscle,usingcheaper,unsungcuts,but
without lapsing intofancyrestaurantfood.
Thinkmackerelandbraisedoxtail, local
rabbitand lamb’sbreast, ratherthan
scallopsorseabass. Inthepub,you
shouldn’t feelobligedtoeatthree-courses
and,at lunch, itshouldservesoup,
gussied-upsandwichesandlighterplates.
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Goodpubsarewonderful things,which iswhy, in
Britain,everyonehasstrongopinionsaboutwhat
thismeans.Thisnationaldebatehas inspired
prominentwriters (GeorgeOrwellwroteafamous
essay,TheMoonUnderWater, abouthis imaginary idealpub),
hasgivenrisetoonetheUK’sbiggestpressuregroups,CAMRA,
and itcontinuestofuelmanypassionate, late-nightconversations
intheplaces inquestion.Naturally,atO,wehaveplenty
of ideasaboutwhatmakesaterrific local.Withfantastic food,
qualitybeerandawarmwelcomeinmind,here’s theO
blueprint fortheperfectmodernboozer.
FinaldraughtDiscoverO’s formulaforthe idealboozer, frombeautifulbeertogoodpieskills,andwhatshouldbebarredfor life WordsTONYNAYLOR
A LOVEABLELANDLADY/LORDTheheartofanygreat
pub.Ever-present
behindthebar,visibly
leadingtheiryoung
teamfromthefront,
theexpert landlordor
landlady isebullient
andefficient,asready
witha jokefora
regularastheyare
withan intelligent
winerecommendation
forastranger.They
arefountsof
knowledge.Agreat
landlordcanmixafine
bloodymaryand
knowswhatabrandy
balloon is,butcanalso
pointyoutothe
nearestcashpoint.
Chicken and ham suet pie
at The Crown at Bray
Claire and Jim Alexander, The
Ebrington Arms, Gloucestershire
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HOMELY FROM HOMEWhether it’sanancientrural innoranewlyrefurbishedcity-centre
boozer,apubshouldfeel likeapub:woody,welcoming,warmand
muted in itsdecor.We’rethinkingcracklingopenfiresalongwith
flagstoneorwoodenfloorsandanemphasisonoriginal features.
Anyretro-modernmakeovershouldbemodest, thecolours
dialled-down, furnitureplainsalvage.Thereshouldbenewspapers
strewnabout,nooksandcrannieswhereacouplecanhide,andone
ortwobigtableswhereagroupcancatch-up.Owouldmuch
ratherdrink inaproperpub, thatstillhasa livelygamesroom(pool,
darts,sportsTV), thanaprissystage-set,whichhasbeenblinged-up
expensivewallpapersand ludicrousdesignerfurniture.Bildeston Crown, Suffolk
the pub issue
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BEAUTIFUL BEERIn2014,thismeansnotjustwell-keptcaskales,butalsoedgiercraft-keg
beers,big,boldhop-forwardUSimportsandajudiciousselectionof
bottleswhichrunthegamutfromhipmicros,suchasLondon’sPartizan,
toaclassicGermanpilssuchasJever.Staffshouldknowtheirkölsch
fromtheirIPAs;needtousetherightglasswareforthoseprecious
Belgianlambics;andtheentry-priceforapintmustremainlow.Many
pubsarecynicallyexploitingthecurrentexplosionofinterestingood
beerbyrampingupthepriceofevendull, traditionalEnglishbitters.Such
profiteeringissacrilege.Beershouldbeapleasureforall,withapint
costingnomorethan£2.80.Seekoutpubsthathavealocalbrewery
producingabeerexclusivelyforthem;it’sasuresignthatsaidpubis
seriousaboutitsbeeranditwilloftenbeabargainpint.
A SHORT, ZIPPY WINE LISTTheeraofboxed-winesonthebarandanofferof ‘sweetormedium?’
isbehindus,thankfully.Thebiggerdangernowistrendypubsflirting
with,say,naturalwines,whicharebestenjoyedinaspecialistwinebar.
Inapub,wewanttodrink,natterandrelax,notthinktoohardabout
terroir.Wewantashort,sharplist (if itwon’tfitonablackboardorone
sideofA4, it’stoolong),whichstillpacksafewsurprises.Outsideofthe
olddependables–newworldsauvignonblanconaWednesday;chablis
foratreat–Olovestoseeacoupleofbottlesonthere,aviognier,
godello,ariesling,thatoffermorecomplexity.Wewantwineswecan
lingerover,notthrowdown,servedinelegantstemware,notchunky
tumblers,withsignificantby-the-glasschoice.
FAMILY FRIENDLY– UP TO A POINTChildrenshouldbewelcomed,
cateredforonthemenuand,
perhaps,providedwithacorner,
stockedwithtoysandcolouring
books,wheretheycan
congregate.Butthis isnota
crèche. If therearekidsrunning
around,screamingandcreating
havoc, thenthestaffshouldget
agrip...of theirparents.Likewise,
thoseparentshavetotolerate
theboozyblokesatthebarwho
aregettingabitboisterous,or
thattablewho’vebeendrinking
whitewineallafternoon,and
whose laughtercouldshatter
glass.Fundamentally, this isan
adultspace.Well-behaveddogs
shouldbetolerated, too.
The Star Inn, Yorkshire
The Star Inn, Yorkshire
Bar at The Swan at Southrop
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A TRULY LOCAL LOCALThebestpubsarefirmlyembeddedwithin
anetworkof like-mindedartisanproducersand
retailers.O lovestoseeCAMRA-approved local
beersonthepumps,porkpiesfromanaward-winning
townbutcheronthebar,nearbyfarmsname-checked
onthemenu.Apubknownfor its traditionalcountydishes
or itsregionalcheeseboard is invariablyafantasticpub.
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BEER FEARAtO, we know what we love
in a pub, but also what makes us turnand walk straight out.CocktailsThis isn’t a swanky ‘nitespot’. It’sa pub. And have you seen the queue at thebar? Please, put down that crushed ice andpull us a pint.
Bangin’ tunesWe’re here to talk, not shout. See also:karaoke, covers’ bands, trad. jazz on Sundays.Wi-FiEncourages suits with laptops to hold meetingsin pubs. Isn’t that what Starbucks is for?Neglected beer It says ‘cask beer’outside, but there are more pumps off
than on. What beer they have tastes staleand the staff clearly don’t care.
Throwback pub foodPrawn cocktail,frozen scampi, onion rings that
taste as if they weremadein1978.
HONEST COOKING,ARTISAN SKILLSThepubisabluff,no-nonsense
space,and itscookingshould
reflect that.Thereshouldbe
nofaking it,nobuying-infrom
corporatecaterers.Owants
meatbutcheredon-siteandused
cleverlytokeepcostsdown.We
wantthebrigadetomakeand
bakeeverythingfromthepub’s
legendarydailypie, to itsgravy
andthecrumblefromscratch.
Weshouldseeall thishappening,
too, inabusyopen-kitchen
wherethechefsareforever
deboning,blitzing,churning,
heftingboxesandcleaning
down.Thekitchenshouldbethe
visibleengineattheheartof
thepub, itsenergycontagious.
Andwhystopthere?The
informalnatureofapubmakes
it theperfectplaceforan
enthusiastic teamtodiversify
intobakingandbutcheryclasses
ormeet-the-brewernights.
NO PRESSURE TO EATTheBritishpubis incrisis:26shuteveryweek.Servingfood isessential
ifapubwantstosurvive.However, foodcanonlygosofar.Without
drinkers,withoutacoreofregularsatthebar,havinga laughand
spreadingtheirrosy, three-pintglowthroughoutthepub, thebuilding
becomesadead, lifelessshell.Anypub, therefore,evenadiningpub
withadedicatedrestaurantsection,needsstoolsatthebaranda
numberofundressed,unreservedtables,wherepeoplecandrop-in
andeatordrinkadhoc,ornurseahalfwhilereadingthepaper.
Otherwise, itsimply isn’tapub.
Braised rabbit and chocolate pot at
The Duke of Cambridge, Islington, N1
Bar at The Drapers Arms, London
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Pies are hand filled at the artisan
bakery in North Yorkshire
The perfect pie can be elusive – but M&S pieexpert Matt Dawson says that once you realisethe secret’s in the pastry, you’ll never look back
The life of pie
Everybody loves a pie.Whetheryou enjoy indulging within thecosy confines of yourlocal pub, or like to savour
the pastry-encased treat at home, therearen’t many things as satisfying asa well-made pie. For pie connoisseurMatt Dawson, product developer atMarks & Spencer, the key to a greatpie is the pastry.
‘Pastry is really important,’ says Matt.‘If you get that bit wrong, it doesn’tmatter what you put in the middle –if the pastry’s not right, it’s justgoing to collapse.’.
At the artisan bakery in NorthYorkshire where Marks & Spencer’s artisan pie rangeis produced, in collaboration with local companyYorkshire Baker, great care is taken atevery step of the process to ensure perfect pastry and impeccable pies.
So what is the secret to good pastry? Matt says it’s a combination of things:‘A good bake penetration on the pastry, so it’s nice and crispy on the outside andslightly softer on the inside, plus a really good flavour; nice and buttery andreally rich.’ He adds, ‘A truly fantastic pie should be full of meat’.
Matt’s cheffing background, which spanned 20 years, saw him complete histraining inYork, serve an apprenticeship atThe Savoy, work on the QE2 andQuaglino’s before becoming head chef at London’s Bank restaurant. He now enjoysploughing his extensive knowledge and experience into developing food productsfor M&S. So when this man talks about what makes a great pie, you listen.
‘With the artisan pie range, we wanted to create a traditional flavour but with a twist,’says Matt. ‘For instance, meat and potato: my nan’s meat and potato pie was one of myfavourite dishes. So, instead of the standard mince and diced potato filling, we’veminced premium chuck steak and added smoked bacon and roasted potatoes for animpressive depth of flavour.We alsotweaked some other classics – thehumble pork pie was our inspiration forthe Pork, Cider & Smoked Bacon pie.’
Once great pastry was added into themix, the M&S artisan pie was born. ‘Wealways knew our customers appreciatedgreat pastry,’ says Matt. ‘So when theopportunity arose to work withYorkshireBaker, who we knew made quality pastrywith a perfect consistency, we couldn’twait to get started developing the range.’
Pastry is the most important
element of a perfect pie
Matt Dawson with his
lovingly crafted pies from
the M&S artisan range
M&S artisan pies are £3.49 each.The range includesChicken & Leek; Slow Roasted Ham, Onion & MatureCheddar; Meat & Potato; Steak & Old Peculiar Ale andPork, Cider & Smoked Bacon.
advertisement feature
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Who makes Britain’sbest pub pie?We’veteamedupwithM&StofindBritain’sbestpubpieandweneedyourhelp! Ifyour localmakesapieworthshoutingabout, tellusat lulusnotes.comandyoucouldwinaKenwoodChefTitaniumworth£599.99,PLUS,£300tospendatTheHandandFlowers
TO ENTER VISIT
lulusnotes.comCLOSING DATE FOR
ENTRIES IS NOON FRIDAY7 MARCH 2014
PIE CHARTER■ Thecompetition isonlyopentopiesfrompubs intheUK–we
arenotacceptingsubmissionsfromrestaurants,hotelbarsor
winebars.
■ Thenominatedpiemustbemadeonthepremises,notbought-in.
■ Thepiemusthaveasavouryfilling(meat,vegetarian,or fish).
■ Thepiemusthaveasingleordoublepastrycrust (i.e. topand
bottomcrustor just topcrust).
■ Thepieshouldbeservedhot(wearenotacceptingsubmissions
forporkpies).
■ Thewinningpiewillbetheonethatthe judgingpanelagrees
tastesthebest.
We love a good pub pie at O - one that’s lovingly made onsite, with crisp, flaky pastry and a delicious filling so satisfyingyou need nothing more than a pint or a glass of wine to make theperfect pub lunch.Whether it’s lamb shank, rabbit and crayfishor good old steak and kidney, we want to hear about the best pubpie you’ve eaten.Tell us about it now – here’s how:✴ Go to lulusnotes.com and click on ‘competitions’.✴ Nominate your favourite pub pie on the brief entry form.✴ If your pie makes it to the shortlist,we’ll request the recipe from
the pub and test it in the O test kitchen.O’s food team,M&S pie expert Matt Dawson and chefTom Kerridge will thendecide a winner.
✴The nominator of the winning pie will win the prizes (see right).✴The pub will win the honour of having anO magazine’s Best
Pub Pie award certificate to display behind the bar. If you work inor own a pub,you can also nominate your own pub’s pie and bein with the chance of winning the prizes as well as the award.
✴ Results will be published in our summer 2014 issue,out 23 May2014.Terms and conditions apply,see lulusnotes.com/competition
OBESTPUBPIESponsored by
THE PRIZESWIN! A leader in innovation and style,Kenwood’s ChefTitanium (£599.99)is a must-have kitchen companion forany budding chef, and can be put towork chopping, grating, slicing,whisking, kneading, mixing andblending.The all-metal body, controldial, head lift lever and high-gradestainless steel bowl tools bring strengthand durability, as well as style toyour kitchen.
PLUS! A £300 voucher to spend atTomKerridge’sThe Hand & Flowers(thehandandflowers.co.uk) in Marlow,Buckinghamshire.You could enjoya two-Michelin-starred meal andovernight stay in one of the stunningcottage suites nearby. The menuincludesTom’s signature glazed omeletteof smoked haddock and parmesan,treacle-cured chateaubriand ofLancashire beef withYorkshire pudding,and chocolate and ale cake with saltedcaramel and muscovado ice cream.
The promoter is Immediate Media Co.London Limited.To enter,you must beover 18 years of age and a resident of theUnited Kingdom.For full terms &conditions,see lulusnotes.com/competition
competition
MARCH 2014 O 23
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Lulu Sofa £599
Typical high street £1,355
Navy Lamp £99
Typical high street £237
Dhurries Rug £159
Typical high street £484
£30 WELCOME GIFT WITH CODE
MADELULU
UP TO 70% OFF HIGH STREET PRICES
GREAT DESIGN DIRECT FROM THE MAKERS
*£300 minimum spend.Offer does not include delivery or gift vouchers and cannot be used alongside other offers - ends 9 Mar 2014
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This month, Tom Kerridge provides plenty of ideas for Sundaylunches (and don’t forget Mother’s Day on 30 June). New
Orleans is our inspiration for food you’ll really want to spendtime cooking and eating, our stylish entertaining menu comesfrom new Italian restaurant, Café Murano, and there are 18
new recipes and ideas for what to do with seasonal ingredients.
Steak andale pudding(page 67)
Root beer glazed ham✴Brioche treacle tart ✴Game pie✴Salmon and hollandaise tart
✴Melting moments with blood orange curd ✴Herb-crusted lamb with lentils
eatinweekend
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ChefandownerofTheHand&Flowers,TomKerridge,sharessixexclusiverecipestoenjoywithfriendsandfamilyRecipesTOMKERRIDGE PhotographsLARAHOLMES
Sundaylunchclassics
26 O MARCH 2014
Herb-crusted lamb with lentils (page 28)
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eat in/weekend
MARCH 2014 O 27
Classic game pie (page 28)
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Game pie2 hours + cooling and chilling ■ Serves 8
■ A LITTLE EFFORT
This isagreatalternativetoporkpie-–use
amixofwhatevergamemeat isaround.Serve
inwedgeswithmustardorchutney.
egg 1,beatenwithasplashofmilk toglaze
gelatine 2leaves
game stockor chicken stock200ml
piccalilli or Cumberland sauce toserve
HOTWATERPASTRY
lard 100g,diced
butter 100g diced
plain flour550g
eggs2,beaten
FILLINGMIX
mixed gamee.g.:partridge,pheasant,
hareorvenison500g,diced
pork belly 125g,mincedorusegood
qualitypork mince
unsmoked streaky bacon 125g,diced
sage 10 leaves,chopped
cracked black pepper 1/2tsp
ground white pepper 1/2 tsp
ground nutmeg 1/2 tsp
crushed juniper berries 1/2 tsp
cayenne pepper 1/2 tsp
■ Makethehotwaterpastrybymeltingthe
lard,butterand200mlwatertogether.Mixthe
warmliquid, 1 1/2 tspsaltandtheeggsintothe
flourandbeatuntiladoughforms.Wrapin
clingfilmandleaveinthefridgefor1hour.
■ Putall thepiefilling ingredientswith 1/2 tsp
salt inabigbowl.Mixtogether.
■ Heattheovento180C/fan160C/gas4.Take
thepastryfromthefridge,cut 1/3 offandkeep
tooneside.Rolltheremaining2/3outintoa
circle,about5mmthick.Linean18cmcaketin
withthepastrythenfill itwiththepiemix.Roll
theremaining1/3 ofpastryoutintoacircleand
putontopofthepie,crimpingtheedges
together.Cutasmallholeintothetopofthe
pietoreleaseanysteamandputonabaking
trayintheovenfor1hourand15minutes.
■ Removefromtheovenandglazethetop
withthebeateneggandmilkmixthenreturn
totheovenandcookforafurther15minutes.
Removefromtheovenandleavetocool.
■ Tomakethe jelly, soakthegelatine in
wateruntil floppy.Heatthestock inasmall
panthenaddthesqueezedoutgelatine
leavesandstiruntilmelted.Pourthe jelly into
thepie.Chillovernightthenremovefromthe
caketinandserve.
■ PER SERVING 624 kcals, protein 33.7g , carbs
51.1g, fat 32g, sat fat 14.2g, fibre 3.1g, salt 2.2g
Pot-roast chicken withbacon, peas and lettuce1 hour 30 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY
This isagreatspringtimedish, fullof flavour
andarealnodtowarmertimesahead.The
lettuceandmintaddaveryclean, freshtaste
andpotroastingthechickenkeeps it tender.
chicken stock 350ml
white wine200ml
chicken 1 large
smoked streaky bacon200g,diced
butter 100g
frozen peas350g
little gem lettuce2, finelysliced
mint 1bunch,chopped
■ Heattheovento180C/fan160C/gas4. In
a largecasserolepan,bringthechickenstock
andwhitewineuptotheboil.Putthechicken
intothepotandputthe lidon.Putthepot
intotheovenandcookfor 1 1/2 hoursoruntil
thechicken iscooked(checkbypiercingthe
thickestpartof thethigh–the juicesshould
runclear).Removethechickenfromthepan
andkeepwarm.Putthepanbackonthehob,
addthedicedbaconandreducethecooking
liquordownoverahighheatbyabout 1/2 until
it reachesathickersauce-likeconsistency.
Gentlystir inthebutteruntil thesaucegoes
glossy.Addthepeasandheatthrough.
Finally, stir inthe lettuceandmintandwilt
downalittle.Blowtorchthechickenorslide
itunderahotgrill togivetheskina little
colourandservewiththepeasandgravy.
■ PER SERVING 829 kcals, protein 60.4g , carbs
10.7g, fat 57g, sat fat 25.4g, fibre 5.4g, salt 3.4g
MAKEAHEAD
MATCHGAME
PIEWITH
ROSE
COQUILLED’OC
Ripebramblefruit
and layersofspice
inDomaine Sainte
Rose Coquille
d’Oc, 2010, IGP
Pays d’Oc, 14%
(£7.49,Waitrose)
makeafinematch
forthisgamepie.
MATCH
POT-ROAST
CHICKENWITH
REDBURGUNDY
Matchthisdishwith
theredcurrantand
cherryfruitof
Henry Fessy
Coteaux
Bourguignons
2011, Burgundy,
France, 12.5%
(£8.99,M&S).
MATCH
HERB-
CRUSTED
LAMBWITH
REDRIOJA
Thecrushed
raspberryand
herbytones ina
goodRiojaarea
greatmatchwith
lamb.Trytheripe,
redfruitofViña
Eguía Rioja
Crianza 2009,
Spain, 13.5%
(£9.49,Majestic
Wine)withthisdish.
Herb-crusted lambwith lentils1 hour 10 minutes ■ Serves 4-6 ■ EASY
This isagreatdish, fullof flavourandperfect
foracolderspringday.Thecannonistheeye
meatfromalambloin. It’samoreexpensive
cutbutverysimpletocookandgives
beautifullypink, tender lamb.
fennel seeds 1 tbsp
dried herbes de Provence2tbsp
rapeseed oil 100ml
saddle of lamb 1,preppedinto2cannons
(approx.400geach)
Dijon mustard forglazing
malt vinegar toserve
LENTILS
onion 1,diced
oil forcooking
smoked streaky bacon 70g,cut intopieces
puy lentils 200g
dried herbes de Provence 2tbsp
white wine 175ml
chicken stock 700ml
HERBCRUST
lemon 1, zested
anchovy fillets 8,chopped
parsley 2tbsp,chopped
mint 1 tbsp,chopped
toasted and crushed croutons75g
■ Tomakethe lentils,cooktheonions ina
littleoiluntil soft.Addthebaconandstiruntil
it justbrownsandthefat isreleased.Add
the lentils, stir intheherbesdeProvenceand
cookfor2-3minutes.Addthewhitewineand
bringtotheboil.Simmeruntil thewinehas
reducedby 1/3 thenaddthechickenstockand
bringtotheboil.Turntheheatdowntoa low
simmerandcookfor30-40minutesuntil the
lentilsare justcookedbutyouhaveabitof
stock left thatwillactasgravy.Keepwarm.
■ Mixtogetherthefennelseeds,herbesde
Provenceandtherapeseedoil.Coverthe
lambcannons inthismixandcook inafrying
panwitha littleoil, turningoccasionallyuntil
mediumrare(about8-10minutesdepending
onthickness).Removefromthepanand
leavetorestunderfoil for8-10minutes.
Whiletheyareresting,mixtogetherthe
herbcrust ingredients.Brushthe lamb
fillets liberallywiththeDijonmustardthen
roll themallover intheherbcrust.Slice
thenservewiththe lentilsandseasonwith
maltvinegar.
■ PER SERVING 663 kcals, protein 37.9g , carbs
30.3g, fat 41.5g, sat fat 11.5g, fibre 4g, salt 1.7g
28 O MARCH 2014WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
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Pot roast chickenwith bacon, peasand lettuce
eat in/weekend
MARCH 2014 O 29WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
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Roast fennel-stuffedbream with fennelseed and orange oil(page 32)
30 O MARCH 2014WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
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Slow roast porkbelly with blackpudding mashand grain mustardsauce (page 32)
eat in/weekend
MARCH 2014 O 31WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
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MATCHSLOW
ROASTPORK
BELLYWITH
PICSAINT-LOUP
Therichflavours in
thisdishare
matchedbythe
robust fruitand
spiceofTaste the
Difference Pic
Saint-Loup 2011,
Languedoc,
France, 13.5%
(£9.99,Sainsbury’s).
Slow-roast pork belly withblack pudding mash andgrain mustard sauce3 hours 5 minutes + overnight brining
■ Serves 4 ■ EASY
Thisdishtakesa littletimebutreally is
worthdoing.Thebrinemakestheporktaste
amazingandhelpsthecracklingalong.The
mashis incredibly luxuriousandthesauce
cutsthroughtherichnessofthedish.
pork belly 1.5kgpiece
onions 2, finelydiced
good ale 200ml
chicken stock500ml
wholegrain mustard2tbsp
English mustard 1 tbsp
BRINE
salt 200g
demerara sugar 150g
black peppercorns 1 tbsp
cloves 2
bay leaf 1
thyme asprig
MASH
potatoes4large
milk 100ml
double cream 100ml
butter 100g
black pudding 200g,diced
■ Bringallofthebrineingredientswith1 litre
ofwateruptotheboilandmakesureallofthe
sugarandsalthasdissolved.Letthebrinego
cold.Puttheporkbellyintoaplasticcontainer
orceramicdishandpouroverthebrine.Put
alidonandputintothefridgefor24hours.
■ Heattheovento150C/fan130C/gas2.Put
theporkbellyontoarackthenontoabaking
tray.Patdrywithkitchenrollandroast inthe
ovenfor21/2-3hoursuntil crispandgolden.
Give itablastofheatattheendifyouneed
tohelpthecrackling.
■ Whiletheporkiscooking,bakethe
potatoesuntilcooked.Scoopallofthepotato
fromtheskinandputitthroughapotatoricer.
Bringthemilk,creamandbutteruptotheboil
andaddittothepotatotogetacreamy
consistency. Inapan,frytheblackpudding
withalittleoiluntilcrispthenfoldintothe
mashedpotato.Seasonandkeepwarm.
■ Frydowntheonions inapanuntil soft.
Addthealeandreducedowntoaglazeover
ahighheat.Addthechickenstockand
reducedownagainuntil sauceconsistency.
Takethesaucefromtheheatandthenwhisk
inthetwomustards.Servewiththepork
andmash.
■ PER SERVING 1381 kcals, protein 76g , carbs
49g, fat 97.2g, sat fat 43.2g, fibre 5.9g, salt 3.6g
Roast fennel-stuffedbream with fennelseed and orange oil45 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY
This isaverysimplebutstunningdish.
Cookedandservedwhole, thefish lookreally
impressive.Buythefreshestfishyoucanand
askthefishmongerforsmallishbream–you
wantone-per-personsize. Ifyoucanonlyget
largebream,serve1between2peopleand
cookforabit longer.
gilt-head bream 2,wholebutgutted,scaled
andtrimmedoffins
oranges2
fennel 2smallbulbs
dill 1/2 bunch
capers 2tbsp
rapeseed oil
fennel seeds 1 tbsp
flaky sea salt forseasoning
■ Heattheovento180C/fan160C/gas4.
Onabakingtray, layoutasheetof foiland
drizzle itwithsomerapeseedoil.Thinlyslice
thefennel (onamandolin ifpossible)and
puta layerof itonthefoil.Sliceoneofthe
orangesandputtheslicesontopofthe
fennelandsprinkleonthecapers.Putthe
fishontopandstuff inabitof thefenneland
orange intothegutcavity.Drizzleona little
morerapeseedoilandseasonwithseasalt.
Putasecondlayerof foiloverthetopand
seal thefishupas if inaparcel.Putthetray
intotheovenatandbakefor25minutesor
until cookedthrough.
■ Whilethefish is intheoven, finelyzestand
juicetheotherorange.Putthe juiceandzest
inabowlandadd3tbspoftherapeseedoil
andfennelseeds.Finelychopthedillandmix
together intothedressing.
■ Removethefishfromtheovenandput
ontoaservingplate.Addsomeofthecooked
fennelanddressthewholefishwiththe
orangeandfennelseeddressing.
■ PER SERVING 421 kcals, protein 38.3g , carbs
10g, fat 26.5g, sat fat 1.3g, fibre 5.1g, salt 1.5g
Brioche treacle tart50 minutes plus chilling ■ Serves 6-8
■ EASY
Briochemakesaricherversionofthis
Britishclassic.
plain flour225g
butter 110g
caster sugar 40g
egg 1 small,beaten
FILLING
golden syrup 450g
brioche 90gwhizzedtomakebreadcrumbs
inafoodprocessor
ground mace 1/2 tsp
ground nutmeg 1/2 tsp
lemon 1, zested
■ Inafoodmixer,whizztheflour,sugarand
butterandbringtogetheruntil it looks like
breadcrumbs.Addenougheggtobring
togethertoformapastry.Removeandchill
forat least 1hourbeforeusing.
■ Heattheovento190C/fan170C/gas5.
Linea20cmtartringortart tinwiththe
sweetpastry.Fillwithbakingpaperand
bakingbeansandbakeblindfor 10minutes.
Takeoutthebeansandpaperandcookfor
another5minutes.
■ Inamixingbowl,stirall thefiling
ingredientstogetherthenpour intothetart
case.Putthetartback intotheovenand
bakeforafurther25minutes.Removefrom
theovenandleavetocool.Servesliceswith
adollopofcrèmefraîche.
■ PER SERVING 437 kcals, protein 4.4g , carbs
74g, fat 14.2g, sat fat 8.2g, fibre 1.3gg, salt 0.7g
MAKEAHEAD
MATCH
ROAST
FENNEL-
STUFFEDBREAM
WITHFIANO
Surani Pietrariccia
Fiano 2012,
Puglia, Italy,
13.5% (£9.49,
MajesticWine)
has itsowncitrus
andherbalnotes
tochimeperfectly
withthis fennel-
flavouredfish.
MATCH
BRIOCHE
TREACLE
TARTWITHCROIX
MILHAS
RIVESALTES
AMBRE
Balancethe
sweetnessofthis
tartwiththespiced
gingerbreadandfig
flavoursofCroix
Milhas Rivesaltes
Ambré NV,
Languedoc-
Roussillon, France,
16% (£7.49for
37.5cl,Tesco).
32 O MARCH 2014
Subscribe toO thismonth and you’ll receiveTom Kerridge’s book. Seepage 63. PLUS! For yourchance to win a meal at TomKerridge’s pub The Hand &Flowers, see our pub piecompetition on page 23.
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Brioche treacle tart
eat in/weekend
MARCH 2014 O 33WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
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A weekend to savourJersey bursts with places to enjoy a superb meal or a perfect pint. Michelin-starred places,
where the oysters are so fresh, you can still taste the sea. Coastal places, where gastropubs
and trendy cafés serve crab sandwiches so full, you’ll need the miles of breathtaking beaches
to walk them off! Country places deep in the island’s lush interior, where cosy inns serving
fresh-from-the-field produce are tucked away. And stylish places where, after a day
exploring, you can simply relax and enjoy a soothing spa treatment. Add a mild climate,
easy travel by air or sea from the UK and great-value offers, and you’ve discovered Jersey.
jersey.com
*Return price per person, including taxes, with easyJet from Gatwick. Price correct at time of print.
Flights
£from
56rtn*
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Thelaid-backstyleofNewOrleans’ foodmeansgenerousportions, relaxedserviceandplentyofbooze.TheserecipeswillgiveyourguestsatasteoftheBigEasy– impressthemLouisianastyle
RecipesJANINERATCLIFFE PhotographsPETERCASSIDY
eat in/weekend
MARCH 2014 O 35
ST
YLIN
G:P
OLLY
WE
BB
-WIL
SO
N.F
OO
DST
YLIN
G:J
EN
NIF
ER
JO
YC
E
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Crawfish étouffée (page 40)
36 O MARCH 2014WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
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Roast beef po’ boy (page 40)
eat in/weekend
MARCH 2014 O 37WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
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Sazerac5 minutes ■ Makes 1 ■ A LITTLE EFFORT
There’saritual tomakingthisdrinkbutyou
don’tneedanyfancyequipment- just2
glasses.AntoinePeychaudcreatedhisown
bitters inthe1800sandthey’rewhatgivethe
Sazerac itsdistinctiveflavour.Youcanbuy
themfromspecialistdrinkshopsoronline
atthedrinkshop.com
sugar cube 1
rye whiskey50ml
Peychaud bitters 2dashes
absinthe5ml
lemonatwistofpeel
■ Putthesugar intoanoldfashionedglass.
Addthebittersandmuddlethesugarcube
usinga littlewater ifneeded.Tip inthe
whiskeyandfill theglasswith ice.Stiruntil
thesugarhasdisolvedandthewhiskeyhas
beendilutedtoyourtaste.
■ Addtheabsinthetotheotherglassand
swirl tocoatthe insidethentipawaythe
excess.Strainthewhiskeymix intothe
absinthe-coatedglass, twist the lemonpeel
overanddrop it intoserve.
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Root beer-glazed ham(page 40)
MARCH 2014 O 39
eat in/weekend
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Crawfish étouffée55 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY
Étouffée(roughlytranslatingas ‘smothered’)
isadishthatfeatures inbothCajunandCreole
cookingandcrawfish(orcrayfish) isoneofthe
mostpopularversions.Thesaucestartswith
aflour-basedroux–besuretocookthisuntil
it’sgoldenas itaddstotherichflavourof
thesauce.
unsalted butter75g
plain flour2tbsp
onion 1,diced
celery 1 stick,diced
green pepper 1,diced
garlic 2cloves,sliced
plum tomatoes4,diced
vegetable stock 400ml
bay leaves2
peeled crayfish tails300g(lookforthe
BigPrawnCompanyinsupermarkets)
flat-leaf parsleyasmallbunch,chopped
spring onions 4,sliced
lemonagoodsqueezeof juice
cooked rice toserve
SEASONINGMIX
dried oregano 1 tsp
dried thyme 1 tsp
garlic granules 2tsp
cayenne pepper 1 tsp
paprika 2tsp
ground black pepper 1 tsp
■ Mixtheseasoning ingredientstogether.
Melt thebutter inapan,addtheflourand
cook,stirringforabout5minutesoruntil
theflourturnsarichgoldencolour.Addthe
onion,celery,pepperandgarlicandkeep
cookingforanother 10minutesuntil
softened.Addtheseasoning,mixandcook
foraminutethenaddthetomatoes,stock
andbay leaves.Simmerfor30minutes.
■ Addthecrawfishandparsleyandcook
until justheatedthrough.Serveover
steamedriceanddresswiththespring
onionsandasqueezeof lemonjuice.
■ PER SERVING 280 kcals, protein 15.2g, carbs
17.6g, fat 17.1g. sat fat 9.9g, fibre 4.8g, salt 0.6g
MATCHCRAWFISHÉTOUFFÉE
WITHPINOTNOIR
Pair theflavours inthisCajunspicedfish
stewwiththesoft fruitand lightherbalnotes
in Taste the Difference Pinot Noir 2012,
Chile, 14% (£7.99,Sainsbury’s).
Roast beef po’ boy3 hours 40 minutes + resting
■ Serves 8 ■ EASY
Po’boysandwichescomestuffedtothebrim
withallkindsoffillings;shrimp,oyster,crawfish
andinthiscase,slow-cookedbeef ingravy.
There isnopolitewayofeatingthese,somake
surethereareplentyofnapkinsonhand.
beef topside 1kgpiece
garlic4cloves,cut intoslivers
cayenne pepper 1 tsp
oil
beef stock500ml
carrot 1,quartered
celery 1 stick,quartered
onion 1,quartered
black peppercorns 6
bay leaves 2
cornflour 1 tbsp
TOSERVE
baguette8longpieces
mayonnaise
tomato slices
gherkin slices
shredded gem lettuce
Tabasco sauce
■ Heattheovento150C/fan130C/gas2.
Make incisionsalloverthebeefwithasmall
sharpknifeand insert thesliversofgarlic.
Seasonwithsalt,pepperandthecayenne.
Heata largefryingpanwitha littleoil then
brownthebeefreallywellallover.Spendabit
oftimegettingagoodcolourasthiswillall
addtotheoverallflavorofthebeefandgravy.
■ Lift thebeef intoa largecasseroledish
witha lid.Addthestock,veg,peppercorns
andbay leavesthencoverwiththe lid,
slippingasheetof foilunderneathsoyouget
areallygoodseal.Cookfor3hours.
■ Carefully takethebeefoutofthepotand
restunderfoil forat leastanhourtomake it
easiertoslice.Takeouttheveganddiscard.
Putthecasserolebackontheheatand
reducethegravybyhalf.Stir thecornflour
with 1 tbspwaterthenaddtothegravyand
whiskwhilstsimmeringuntil thickened.
■ Slicethebeefandtipany juicesandbits
that falloffback intothegravy.Addtheslices
backtothegravytowarmthrough.
■ Halvethebaguettesbutdon’tcutall the
waythrough.Put ina200C/fan180C/gas6
ovenfor5minutestocrispup.
■ Spreadthebottomofthebreadwith
mayo,adda layerofmeatandgravythen
topwithtomato,gherkinandshredded
lettuce.AddadashofTabascothendig in.
■ PER SERVING 219 kcals, protein 29.2g, carbs
4.5g, fat 9.4g. sat fat 3.5g, fibre 1.3g, salt 0.3g
Root beer glazed ham2 hours 10 minutes ■ Serves 6 ■ EASY
Mother’srestaurant inNewOrleans
(mothersrestaurant.net) is famousfor its
bakedham.Therecipe istopsecret,but
theglaze isrumouredto includerootbeer.
This isourversion.
smoked boneless gammon hamabout2.5kg
onion 1 small,peeledandstuddedwithcloves
ROOTBEERGLAZE
root beer 300ml
Tabasco chipotle sauce afewgooddashes
ground cloves 1/2 tsp
mustard powder2tsp
brown sugar 6tbsp
■ Makeanoteoftheweightofthegammon
andcalculatethecookingtimefor40
minutesperkilo.Putthegammonina large
panofwater,bringuptoasimmerandskim
anyimpuritiesfromthesurface.Addthe
onionandleavetosimmerfortherequired
cookingtime(soa2.5kggammonwill take
1hour40minutes).
■ Whilethehamiscooking,puttheglaze
ingredients inapanandsimmeruntil
thickenedandsyrupyenoughtobrushover
theham.
■ Heattheovento180C/fan160C/gas4.
Aftersimmering, let thehamrestuntil cool
enoughtohandlethen, removetheskin
leavinga layerof fat.Scorethefat lightly
makingsureyoudon’tgo intotheflesh.Sit
thehamonarack inaroastingtinandbrush
alloverwiththeglaze.Bakefor40-45
minutes,brushingmoreglazeonas itbakes
until it isadarkgoldenbrown.
■ PER SERVING 634 kcals, protein 61.6g, carbs
19.1g, fat 32.6g. sat fat 10.8g, fibre 0.2g, salt 7.9g
MATCHROOTBEER-GLAZED
HAMWITHRIESLING
Thisdeliciouscombinationofsaltyham
andsweetspicyglazeneedsthebalanced
fruitandzestof Dr. Hermann Erdener
Treppchen Riesling Kabinett 2007, Mosel,
Germany, 7.5% (£9.99,MajesticWine).
40 O MARCH 2014
MATCH
ROASTBEEF
PO’BOY
WITHMALBEC
Therichmeaty
flavours inapo’boy
areenhancedby
theripe, redfruits
inaglassof
Argentinian
Malbec 2012,
Mendoza, 14%
(£8.49,Waitrose).
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Sugar-dusted beignets30 minutes ■ Makes about 30 ■ EASY
ThesedeepfrieddoughsquaresareaFrench
Quarterfavourite, liberallydustedwith
powderedsugarandservedwithcaféaulait.
Overnightprovingofthedoughinthefridge
makes itmucheasiertoworkwith.
golden caster sugar 55g
salt 1/2 tsp
egg 1 large
butter 30g,atroomtemperature
evaporated milk 120ml
strong white flour600g
fast action yeast 3tsp
TOSERVE
icing sugar
■ Putall the ingredientsplus240mlwarm
water in
afoodprocessorand
pulseuntilyouhave
asmoothdough.
Thedoughwillbe
quitewetbutdon’t
worry, itwill firmup
overnight.Tip it intoan
oiledbowl,coverwith
clingfilmandchillovernight.
■ Thenextday, tip itoutontoa lightly
flouredsurface.Divide it into2androlleach
pieceoutuntil just lessthan1cmthick.Use
asharpknifeorserratedcuttertocut into
squaresabout6cm.
■ Heatoil inapanto180Coruntilacube
ofbreadbrowns in30seconds.Frythe
beignets inbatchesfor2-3minuteseach
sideuntilpuffedandgolden-brown.Keep
thecookedoneswarmintheovenif
you like.Dustheavilywith icing
sugarbeforeserving.
■ PERSERVING119kcals,
protein2.7g,carbs
17g,fat4.6g,satfat
1.2g,fibre0.8g,
salt 0.1g
MATCHBEIGNETS
WITHMARSALA
Packedwithflavours
of figs,nutsandbaked
apples,Martinez
Marsala Superiore
Riserva Dolce 5 year
old, 18% (£6.49/37.5cl,
M&S) isamatchfor
thesesugarytreats.
MARCH 2014 O 41
eat in/weekend
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Louisiana bourbonbread pudding55 minutes + soaking ■ Serves 6 ■ EASY
BreadpuddingisaNewOrleansstaplewith
mostrestaurantsservingaversionofit.
It’s likeourbreadandbutterpudding,and
it’susuallyservedwitha‘hard’boozysauce.
flame raisins 100g
bourbon6tbsp
baguette 1/2,about200g
milk 300ml
double cream300ml
butter25g,melted
caster sugar 4tbsp
eggs3large
ground allspice 1/2 tsp
cinnamon 1/2 tsp
vanilla extract 1 tsp
vanilla ice-cream toserve
BOURBONBUTTERSCOTCHSAUCE
dark muscovado sugar 100g
double cream 100ml
butter50g
bourbon 2-3tbsp
■ Puttheraisinsandbourboninasmallpan
andsimmergently for5minutesthenturn
off theheat.Coverand leavetheraisinsto
soakforanhourorso.
■ Beatthemilk,cream,meltedbutter,sugar,
eggs,spicesandvanilla together.Stir inthe
soakedraisinsand liquid.
■ Heattheovento160C/fan140C/gas3.Cut
thebaguette intosmallchunksandput inthe
bottomofawell-butteredshallow-ishbaking
dish.Pouroverthecustardmixandleave
tosoakfor30minutes, thenbakefor45
minutesuntilpuffedandgolden.
■ Tomakethesauce,putthedark
muscovadosugar,doublecreamandbutter
inapan.Bringtoasimmerthencookfor3-4
minutes.Addthebourbonthencookfor
anotherminute.
■ Serveasliceofthebreadpuddingtopped
withascoopof ice-creamandsomesauce
spoonedover.
■ PER SERVING 785 kcals, protein 8.8g, carbs
62.2g, fat 50.6g. sat fat 30.2g, fibre 1.6g, salt 0.7g
MATCHBOURBONBREAD
PUDDINGWITHMOSCATEL
Trythefreshgrapeandorangepeel
flavoursofMoscatel de Valencia, Spain,
15% (£4.89,Tesco)withthisdessertbut
remember,sweetwinesdon’t justgowith
puddings, theyaregoodwithcheeseand
arealsoexcellentontheirown.
42 O MARCH 2014
eat in/weekend
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Yo u r p e r s o n a l H o l i d a y I n f o r m a t i o n L i n e :0 8 4 5 1 0 1 1 8 1 8 ( c a l l s c h a r g e d a t l o c a l r a t e s )
You can learn something
from the people here,
deliberately taking time
to enjoy the moment.
w w w . a u s t r i a . i n f o
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44 O MARCH 2014
WHAT’SINSEASON
MarchThismonth,makeacrowd-pleasingtart,aclassic leeksoup,addanewspinachsidedishtoyourrepertoirewithsalmonandusegoat’scheeseandspringonions inanewway.Plus, twoextra ideasforeachingredientRecipesLULUGRIMES PhotographsPHILIPWEBB
Leek and potato soupwith frizzled leeks (page 46)
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MARCH 2014 O 45
eat in/weekend
Salmon and hollandaise tart(page 46)
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Leek and potato soupwith frizzled leeks30 minutes ■ Serves 6 ■ EASY
Thegreenendsof leekscanbevery long,
sotrimoffthestragglydarkestbitsanduse
theminstock ifyouaremaking it.Theywill
keepinthefreezeruntilyouneedthem.
butter
oil
leeks600g, trimmedandveryfinelysliced
potatoes3medium,peeledandchopped
vegetable or chicken stock 1.5 litres
single cream 150ml
■ Meltaknobofbutter ina largepanwith
a littleoil,addall the leekexceptahandful
andstir.Cookgentlyuntil the leek isverysoft,
thiswill takeabout 10minutes.Addthe
potatoes,seasonwell thenaddthestockand
bringtoasimmerandcookuntil thepotato
issoft.Whizzeverythingwithablenderuntil
smooth.Addthecreamandseasonagain if
itneeds it. If thesoupisverythick, let itdown
witha littlewater,stockormilk.Keepwarm.
■ Heat 1cmoil inasmallpan,addthe
remaining leekandcookuntil it frizzles.Lift
outanddrain.Servethesoupandaddsome
frizzled leektothetop.
■ PER SERVING 167 kcals, protein 11.3g, carbs
15.7g, fat 6.8g. sat fat 3.9g, fibre 5.4g, salt 0.8g
Salmon andhollandaise tart40 minutes ■ Serves 4 as a main ■ EASY
Hot-smokedsalmoniswidelyavailablenow,
but ifyouprefer,youcanmakethisusingthe
sameamountofpoachedsalmon.
shortcrust pastry 350g
hot-smoked salmon300g
baby (nonpareille) capers2tbsp,drained
HOLLANDAISE
unsalted butter250g
egg yolks 4
tarragon white wine vinegar 1 tsp
lemon 1
tarragon 1bunch, leavesfinelychopped
■ Heattheovento190C/fan170C/gas5.Roll
outand linea20-21cmtart tinwithpastry.
Prickthetartwithaforkand line itwith
bakingparchmentandbakingbeans.Bake
blindfor 15minutesandthenremovethe
paperandbakeforanother 10minutestodry
outthebaseandcookthepastrythrough.
■ Breakupthesalmon,put it inthetartcase,
andsprinkleoverhalfof thecapers.
■ Melt thebutterandskimoff thewhite
foam.Whisktheeggyolksandvinegar in
aglassbowl,set itabove(butnottouching)
apanofsimmeringwaterandwhiskuntil the
mixturethickens.Takethebowloff theheat
andgraduallywhisk inthebutteraknobat
atime,until thehollandaise is thickand
creamy.Seasonwithasqueezeof lemon
juice,somesaltandpepperandadd
asplashofwatertomakeaspoonable
consistency.Stir inmostofthetarragon
andspoonthisoverthesalmoninthetart.
Putany leftover intoa jugtoserveonthe
side.Finishwiththeremainingtarragon
andcapers.
■ PER SERVING 786kcals, protein 26.2g, carbs
39.4g, fat 59g. sat fat 26.9g, fibre 2.4g, salt 4.8g
Melting momentswith blood orange curd40 minutes + cooling ■ Makes 20 ■ EASY
Bloodorangesvary in intensityofcolour,
someareveryred,othersmainlyorange
withafewflecks.Thiswillaffectthecolour
ofthecurd.
butter250g,verysoft
icing sugar50g
plain flour250g
custard powder50g
ORANGECURD
blood oranges2,bothzestedand1 juiced
golden caster sugar40g
unsalted butter40g,chopped
intosmallcubes
egg yolk 1
mascarpone 100g
■ Heattheovento190C/gas170C/gas5
andlineabakingsheetwithbaking
parchment.Putthebutter, icingsugar, flour
andcustardpowder inafoodprocessorand
whizztoasoftdough.Spoonintoapiping
bagwitharoundnozzle.
■ Pipesmall roundbiscuitsabout4cmwide
outonthebakingsheetsandpressdownon
eachwithawetfingertogetridofanypeaks,
oruseawetforktomakestripes.Bakefor
15-20minutesoruntil firmtothetouch.
Leavetocoolcompletely.
■ Putthe juiceandzest inasaucepanand
bringtotheboil, reducebyhalfandthenmix
inthecastersugarandbutterand let the
buttermelt.Cool forafewminutesthen
graduallymix intheeggyolk.Stirovera low
heatfor 10minutesuntil themixture
thickens,beingcarefulnotto let itboil.Cool
completelyandfold inthemascarpone.
■ Sandwichtwobiscuits togetherwiththe
filling.Eatthesewithinthedayastheywill
softenovertimeor leavethemunfilleduntil
youneedthem.
■ PER SERVING 189 kcals, protein 1.7g, carbs
16.3g, fat 13.1g. sat fat 8.3g, fibre 0.5g, salt 0.2g
MATCHLEEKANDPOTATOSOUP
WITHCHARDONNAY
Withcrisp, tropical fruitandarounded
butterystyleMontgravet Chardonnay 2012
Vin de France, 12% (£5.99,Waitrose)
partnersthiscreamysoup,andtheheat
inthe leekchilli squeakonp50perfectly.
MATCHSALMONANDHOLLANDAISE
TARTWITHGODELLO
Perfectwithallkindsof fish,Montenovo
Godello 2012, Valdesil, Valdeorras, Spain,
13.5% (£11.99,or£9.99whenyoubuy2,
Majestic)hasripepearandpineapplefruit
witharounded,silkytexture.
MATCHMELTINGMOMENTSWITH
ORANGEMUSCAT
Therichpeachandorangefruit in
Andrew Quady Essensia Orange Muscat
2012, California, 15% (£12.49/37.5cl,
Majestic) isaperfectmatchforbloodorange.
46 O MARCH 2014
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MARCH 2014 O 47
eat in/weekend
Melting moments withblood orange curd
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Spring onion andprawn empanadas1 hour ■ Makes 8 ■ EASY
Thespringonionsforthisshouldbe
adecentsize– if they lookabitweedy
use1 1/2 bunches.
spring onions 1bunch
olive oil
red chilli 1, finelydiced
garlic 1clove,crushed
raw peeled prawns350g,roughlychopped
feta75g,crumbled
EMPANADADOUGH
butter 15g,coldandcut intocubes
plain flour250g
egg 1, separated
white wine vinegar 1/2 tsp
■ Tomakethedough,rubthebutterintothe
flourandthenaddtheeggwhiteandhalfthe
yolk(keeptherest),vinegar,apinchofsaltand
enoughcoldwatertomakeasoftdough.
Kneadonaflouredsurfaceuntilsmoothand
thenwrapandrestfor30minutes.
■ Heattheovento180C/fan160C/gas4.
Trimthegreenendsofthespringonionsand
thenfinelyslicetherest.Heata littleoil ina
panandfrythemgentlyuntil softbutnot
browned.Addthechilliandgarlic, stirand
thenaddtheprawnsandcookuntil theyare
opaque.Seasonwell.Scoopouttheprawns
andbubblethe juicesuntil theythicken, then
addbacktheprawns.
■ Dividetheempanadadoughintoeight
ballsandrollouttothincirclesonafloured
surface.Putsomefillingononehalfof the
dough,sprinklethefetaontopandfoldthe
otherhalfover.Trimtheedgeandthenfold
andcrimpthedoughtogethersothe
empanada istightlysealed,put itonanoiled
bakingsheeteitheron itssideorsittingonits
un-crimpededge likeaCornishpasty.Repeat
withtheremainingdoughandmixture.Mix
the leftovereggyolkwithasplashofwater
andbrushthetopoftheempanadas.
■ Bakefor30minutesoruntilgoldenand
slightlycrisparoundtheedges.
■ PER SERVING 190 kcals, protein 13g, carbs
23.7g, fat 4.9g. sat fat 2.5g, fibre 1.6g, salt 0.7g
Dukkah goat’s cheesewith homemade flatbread30 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY
Dukkah(whichmeanstopound) isadrydip
originating inEgyptwherebreadisdippedfirst
intooliveoilandthenintothedipso itsticks.
It isalsoveryuseful forsprinklingonsteamed
orroastvegtomakeitmore interesting.
soft goat’s cheese 1 log,about 125g
olive oil
DUKKAH
blanched hazelnuts 100g
sesame seeds75g
coriander seeds2tbsp
cumin seeds 1 tbsp
sea salt flakes 1 tsp
FLATBREAD
plain flour250g
olive oil4tbsp
■ Tomaketheflatbread,mixtheflourwith
theoiland100mlwarmwaterthenmixand
MATCH
GOAT’S
CHEESE
WITHSAUVIGNON
Packedwith lemon,
limeandfragrant
withelderflower
flavours
Helderberg Winery
Sauvignon Blanc
2013, South
Africa, 13% (£9.99,
M&S)canmatch
thisgoat’scheese
insavouryand
sweetdishesalike.
kneadtomakeasoft,pliabledough.Cover
andrest for 15minutes.
■ Meanwhile,makethedukkahbytoasting
thehazelnutsfollowedbythesesameseeds
inahotfryingpan.Coolandthentipthem
intoafoodprocessor,addthecoriander,
cuminseedsandsaltandwhizzuntil roughly
ground,beingcarefulnottomakeapaste.
(Youwillonlyneedhalfsostoretherest in
anairtightcontainer inthefridge).
■ Dividethedoughinto6piecesandroll
eachoneouttothethicknessofa£1coin.
Heatafryingpanandcooktheflatbreads
for2-3minutesoneachsideuntil theyare
brownedandslightlypuffy.Keepwarm.
■ Cutthegoat’scheese into4pieces,dip
themintotheoilandthengentlycoverthem
inthedukkah,pressing it inallover.Halve
theflatbreadsandservethemwiththe
dukkah-coveredgoat’scheese.
■ PER SERVING 738 kcals, protein 20.2g, carbs
49.2g, fat 51.4g. sat fat 10.6g, fibre 8.6g, salt 1.8g
48 O MARCH 2014
MATCHEMPANADASWITH
VERNACCIADISANGIMIGNANO
Matchthespringonion intheparcels
andpancakesonp39withthecrispgreen
appleandalmondnotes inWinemakers’
Selection Vernaccia di San Gimignano
DOCG 2012, Tuscany, Italy, 12.5%
(£6.99,Sainsbury’s).
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Spring onion andprawn empanadas
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SPRINGONIONSTWO MORE IDEAS:
Spring onionpancakes■ Serves 4
Sift 150gplain flour intoabowl,add30ml
oilandenoughcold water tomakeasoft
dough.Rest for30minutes.Finelychop
thewhiteof2spring onions.Dividethe
doughinto6,rolloutonanoiledsurface
andsprinklethespringonionover.Fold
intoquarters,oil theoutsideofeach
pancakeandfryfor2-3minutesoneach
sideuntilbrowned.
Spring onion salad dressing■ Serves 4
Mix2tbspred wine vinegarwith2finely
choppedspring onions.Whisk ina little
Dijon mustardplusapinchofsugarand
thenenougholive oil tomakeathick
dressing.Seasonwell.Leavetosit for20
minutessothespringonionflavorcan
permeatethedressing.
SPINACHTWO MORE IDEAS:
Spinach andpotato curry■ Serves 2
Fryachoppedonion in
1 tbspoiland1-2tbspofyourfavourite Indian
currypaste.Add1 largepeeledandchopped
potato,2-3chopped tomatoesandasplash
ofwater andcookeverythingwiththe lidon
until thepotato issoft.Addacoupleof
handfulsofspinach, apinchofgaram
masalaandstir throughuntilwilted.Season
andservewithadollopofyoghurt.
Creamed spinach■ Serves 2
Wiltabagofspinach (cutoutanytough
stalksfirst) insimmeringwater,drainwell
andsqueezedry.Chopfinely,stir in2-4tbsp
double creamandseasonwellwithsalt,
pepper andnutmeg.
LEEKSTWO MORE IDEAS:
Leek andchilli squeak■ Serves 2
Chopleftovercooked
leeks,orsimmertwochoppedleeksuntil
tender.Heatsomeoil inapanandaddthe
leekplusapinchofchilli flakesandplenty
ofseasoning.Add4cookedandroughly
choppedpotatoesandmix.Patdownand
fryuntilthebaseisbrowned,turnsections
overandkeepfryinguntilthewholemixture
isfleckedwithbrown.Letthebasebrownone
lasttimeandthenserve.
Braised leeks■ Serves 4
Fit4-8 leekssnugly inabakingdish.Mix3
tbspwhite winewith200mlchicken stock
andafinelychoppedshallotandspoonthis
over.Seasonwell, coverwithfoilandbake in
a180C/fan160C/gas4ovenfor40minutes
oruntil theyfeel tenderwhenyoupokea
knifeblade in.Lift the leeksoutandadda
splashofvinegar tothesaucetomakeit
tastemore likeadressing.Pour itback
overandserveatroomtemperature.
SALMONTWO MORE IDEAS:
Sesamesalmon withbroccoli■ Serves 2
Tipsomesesameseedsontoaplate,add
someseasoningandapinchofcayenne
pepperandpresstwopiecesofsalmon
fillettopsidedownintotheseeds.Putskin
sidedownonalightlyoiledbakingsheetand
grilluntilthesalmoniscookedthroughand
thesesamebrowns.Stir-frysomepurple
sproutingbroccoli inalittleoiluntil it istender
andtheedgesbrowned,seasonandserve.
Salmon wraps■ Serves 2
Brusha largesalmon filletwithoilandgrill
until cookedthrough.Break into largeflakes,
add 1/2choppedavocado,halvedcherry
tomatoesandsome lemon zestand juice.
Layontothecentreof2wraps, adda
spoonfulofmayonnaiseandsomesriracha
chilli sauce, rollupandhalvetoserve.
BLOODORANGETWO MORE IDEAS:
Blood orangeCamparispritz
■ Serves 2
Cut2curlsofzest from2orangesusing
apotatopeeler, juicetheorangesand
dividethe juicebetweentwowinegoblets
orhighballglasses.Addahandfulof ice
cubestoeachfollowedbyameasureof
Campari.Topuptheglasseswithprosecco
anddropacurlofzest intoeach,stircarefully.
Blood orange jelly■ Serves 4
Juice10bloodorangesandtipthejuiceintoa
jug.Soak2sheetsofgelatin incoldwateruntil
floppy.Heat2tbspofthejuiceinasmall
saucepanandaddthedrainedgelatin.Turnoff
theheatandswirlthepan,thegelatinshould
meltalmostimmediately,stir it intotherestof
thejuiceanddivideitbetween4smallglasses.
Setinthefridge.Softlywhipsomecreamwith
alittle icingsugarandagratingoforange
zest,spoonalittleontoeachjellytoserve.
GOAT’SCHEESETWO MORE IDEAS:
Whippedgoat’s cheesedip
■ Serves 4
Puta logofsoftgoat’s cheese inabowlwith
4tbspsoft cheeseand4tbspcrème fraîche
andbeatwithelectricwhiskuntil creamyand
smooth.Season,beatagainandservewith
toastedflat bread, spoonedoverroast veg
orwithraw vegasadip.
Goat’s cheese andpear tartines■ Serves 4
Lightlytoast4slicesofsourdough.Beata
smallsoft goat’s cheesewith2tbspdouble
cream, spreadonthetoastrightuptothe
edgesandseason.Sliceapearandtrimout
thecore(leavetheskinon ifyou like).Lay
thepearslicesontopandsprinkleona little
sugar (anykind).Grilluntil thesugarstarts
tomeltandsprinklewithafewdropsofred
wine vinegar toserve.
50 O MARCH 2014
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Spinach andjalapeño madeleine1 hour 10 minutes ■ Serves 6
as a side ■ EASY
TheJuniorLeagueofBatonRougein
Louisiana,agroupofwomenpromoting
volunteerism,hasawonderfulrecipebook
calledRiverRoadRecipes, this isan
adaptationoftheirspinachmadeleinerecipe.
Eat itasasidedishoramaindish.Youcan
findthebookhere: juniorleaguebr.org
butter3tbsp
onion 1, finelychopped
garlic 1clove,crushed
plain flour2tbsp
celery salt 1/2 tsp
smoked paprika 1/2 tsp
mascarpone 150g
spinach500g,washed
andstalksremoved
cheddar 150g,grated
jalapeño peppers 1-2tbspfrom
ajar,chopped
bread 2slices,chopped
■ Heatovento190C/170Cfan/gas5.Melt
thebutter inapan,addtheonionandfry
gentlyuntil softbutnotbrowned.Stir inthe
garlicandthentheflour,celerysaltand
smokedpaprika.Cooktheflourfor2-3
minutesandthenaddthemascarpone.Wilt
thespinach inapanofsimmeringwaterfor
1minuteandthendrainbriefly.
■ Squeezethe liquidfromthespinach into
a jug,stir this intotheflourmixtureand
bubble it foracoupleofminutes.Finelychop
thespinachandfold it intothemixturewith
mostofthecheddarkeepinga littlebackfor
thetop.Addthe jalapeñopeppers,season
withsaltandpepperandtip intoan
ovenproofdishordishes.Sprinklethebread
overthetopwiththeremainingcheddarand
bakefor40minutes.
■ PER SERVING 354 kcals, protein 11.7g, carbs
14.6g, fat 27.6g. sat fat 17.7g, fibre 3.2g, salt 1.4g
MATCHSPINACHANDJALEPEÑO
MADELEINEWITHALSACE
GEWÜRZTRAMINER
Thearomaticspice inFinest Alsace
Gewürztraminer 2012, France, 13% (£7.99,
Tesco)combineswellwiththepepperand
spice inthisspinachrecipe.
eat in/weekend
MARCH 2014 O 51
✴ alsonowinseason... kale,purplesproutingbroccoli, swede,bananas,rhubarb,mussels
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F R A N C E • I T A L Y • S P A I N • P O R T U G A L • C R O A T I A • A U S T R I A • W O R L D W I D E
01606 828527www.headwater.com/gastronomic
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MARCH 2014 O 53
MENU FOR 4✴ Chicory salad with gorgonzola,
pine nuts and honey
✴ Halibut, purple sproutingbroccoli, preserved lemon
✴ Rhubarb tart withvanilla ice cream
Aquickstarterandmake-aheaddessertareperfectforarelaxedSaturdaynightorSundaylunch, fromnewItalianCaféMuranoRecipesSAMWILLIAMS PhotographsMINGTANG-EVANS
Cafeculture
Menu of the month
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BRILLIANT WINE MATCHES
CafeMuranoservesatropicalwhitesuch
asUriel Poggio Anima Grillo, Sicily,
2012 withthechicoryandgorgonzolasalad.
Matchthehalibutwiththecrisp,aromatic
notesof MuraPrisma,Vermentinodi
Sardegna,Sardinia,2012, andpairthe
rhubarbtartwith thecreamy,peachflavoursof
Morandina,Moscatod’Asti,Piemonte,2010.
Halibut, purple sproutingbroccoli, preserved lemon45 minutes ■ Serves ■ 4 EASY
panko breadcrumbs4tbsp
butter
halibut 4x150gskinlesspieces
purple sprouting broccoli 250g, trimmed
spring greens 250g,stalksremoved
andshredded
DRESSING
preserved lemon 1
plum tomatoes 2
chives 1/2smallbunch, finelychopped
extra virgin olive oil
■ Tomakethedressing,scrapeoutthepulp
fromthe lemonanddiscardthendicethe
peel.Putthetomatoes intoboilingwaterfor
5-10secondsthentransferstraight into iced
water. Leavetocool, thenpeel, scrapeout
anddiscardthepulpandseedsanddice.
■ Putthe lemon, tomato,chives,2tbspolive
oilandsomeseasoning inabowlandtoss.
■ Meltaknobofbutter inapan,addthe
pankobreadcrumbsandfryuntil lightgolden
brown.Drainonkitchenpaper.
■ Heatafryingpan,adda littleoliveoil,
andputthefish inskinnedsidedownfor
3-4minutes.Whenthefishstartstoturn
a lightgoldencolourturnandcookfor
another3-4minutes.
■ Whilethefish iscooking,simmerthe
broccoli inboilingwateruntil tenderand
inaseparatepancookthespringgreens
ina littlebutteruntil softened.
■ Spoonthebroccoliandspringgreens
ontoplates,sit thehalibutontop,dresswith
lemonandtomatodressingandgarnishwith
toastedbreadcrumbs.
■ PER SERVING 378 kcals, protein 39.5g, carbs
19.9g, fat 15.8g, sat fat 3.3g, fibre 6.3g, salt 1.2g
Chicory saladwith gorgonzola,pine nuts and honey10 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY
Leavethegorgonzolaoutofthefridgefor
30minutesbeforeyoumakethesalad.
red chicory 1head, trimmed
andleavesseparated
white chicory 1head, trimmed
andleavesseparated
rocket leavesahandful
gorgonzola 100g
pine nuts 25g, toasted
DRESSING
Dijon mustard 1 tsp
runny honey 1 tsp
olive oil2tbsp
walnut oil 1 tbsp
sherry vinegar 1 tbsp
■ Whiskall thedressing ingredientstogether.
■ Putthechicory leavesonplatesandbreak
oversmallpiecesofthegorgonzola.Addthe
rocket leavesandthepinenutsontopofthe
chicory leaves.
■ Spoonoverthedressingandserve.
■ PER SERVING 385 kcals, protein 6.2g, carbs
6.9g, fat 37.3g, sat fat 6.2g, fibre 2.9g, salt 0.3g
54 O MARCH 2014
SUPERQUICK
CAFÉ MURANO is the latest venture for Angela Hartnett (of Michelin-starred Murano
restaurant in Mayfair) with a kitchen run by head chef Sam Williams and front of
house led by Zoe Carton-Brown (both pictured, page 53). In the cosy, banquette-lined
restaurant, the menu highlights Northern Italian dishes such as fettuccine with wild
boar or cod with lentils and salsa verde. Or you can grab one of 12 seats at the marble
dining-bar for cicchetti, which includes truffle arancini and Italian charcuterie.
cafemurano.co.uk
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MARCH 2014 O 55WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
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56 O MARCH 2014
Rhubarb tartwith vanilla ice cream1 1/2 hours + chilling ■ Serves 6
■ A LITTLE EFFORT
plain flour 250g
golden caster sugar75g
butter 125g,chilledanddiced
egg 1 large, lightlybeaten
FILLING
eggs2
granulated sugar 150g
plain flour3tbsp
almond extract ¼ tsp
rhubarb300g
vanilla ice cream toserve
CRUMBLETOPPING
soft brown sugar 100g
plain flour75g
ground nutmeg½ tsp
butter 15g,chilledandcut intopieces
■ Tomakethepastry,mixtheflourand
sugartogether inabowl. Addthebutterand
rub it inwithyourfingertipsuntil themixture
resemblesbreadcrumbs.Pour inthebeaten
eggandmixwell,butdon’toverworkthe
mixture. (Addasplashofcoldwater ifyou
needtobring it together.)Gentlybring it
togetherthenwrap inclingfilmandleaveto
rest inthefridgeforat least30minutes.Roll
outto20pthicknessonaflouredsurfaceand
useto lineashallow23-24cmtartcase.Chill
foranother20minutes.Heattheovento
190C/fan170C/gas5.
■ Tomakethefilling,beattheeggswith
electricbeatersuntil light. Beat inthe
granulatedsugar, flourandthealmond
extractuntil smooth.Stir intherhubarb.
Spoonthemix intothecase.
■ Tomakethetopping, rubthebutter into
theflouruntil themixtureresemblescoarse
crumbs.Mix inthebrownsugarandthe
nutmeg.Sprinkleovertopofthetart.
■ Bakefor40-45minutesoruntilpastry
isgoldenbrownandfilling isset incentre.
Serve justwarmwithvanilla icecream.
■ PER SERVING 484 kcals, protein 7.6g, carbs
76.4g, fat 17.2g, sat fat 9.9g, fibre 3.2g, salt 0.4g
MAKEAHEAD
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MARCH 2014 O 57
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It’s the combination of fragrant spices that makes
Ainsley’s Red Thai Chicken soup so fabulous!
Just one of our delicious new range, inspired by
Ainsley’s world travels.With all the flavour of
fresh soups, they keep perfectly in the cupboard.
Find them in the canned soups aisle and begin
your journey of exotic world flavours.
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Labouroflove
Black puddingscotch quailegg sliders
Everymonth,Oscourscookerybooks
forshow-stoppingrecipestomake
whenthere’splentyoftimetoshop
andcook.Areyoufeelingadventurous?
RecipeandphotographBILLYLAW
MARCH 2014 O 59
eat in/weekend
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Black pudding scotchquail egg sliders45 minutes + chilling ■ Makes 10
■ A LITTLE EFFORT
quail’s eggs 10
black pudding 200g
pork sausages2,good-quality,skinned
ground black pepper 1/2 tsp
plain flour 75g
eggs 2, lightlybeaten
panko crumbs 60g
vegetable oil fordeep-frying
mini bun rolls 10,halvedandlightlytoasted
cornichons toserve
WASABIMAYO
wasabi paste 1 tbsp
egg yolks2
white wine vinegar 1 tsp
grapeseed oil 375ml
lemon juiceasqueeze
cayenne pepperapinch
■ Tomakethemayo,putthewasabipaste,
eggyolks,vinegarandapinchofsalt ina
foodprocessorandwhizzuntil combined.
Withthefoodprocessorstill running,addthe
oil inaslow,steadystream–themixturewill
start toemulsifyandturn intomayonnaise.
Scrapethethickmayonnaise intoabowland
seasonwithsalt,pepperand lemonjuice.
Sprinklewithcayennepepperbeforeserving
orstore intherefrigeratorforupto1week.
■ Fillasmallsaucepanwithwaterandbring
totheboiloverahighheat.Oncethewater
isonarollingboil, carefullydropthequail’s
eggs intothewaterandcookfor2minutes.
Scooptheeggsoutanddunkthemquickly
intoabowloficedwatertostopthemcooking.
Peeltheeggscarefullyandsetthemaside.
■ Puttheblackpudding inafoodprocessor
andwhizzuntil crumbly, thenput inamixing
bowlwiththesausagemince,seasonwith
apinchofsaltandpepperandmixwell.
■ Scoopoutaheapedtablespoonofthemix
androll it intoaball, thenflattenit intoadiscin
thepalmofyourhand.Putaquail’segginthe
centreandwraptheminceovertheegg,
makingsuretheeggisfullysealedinside,then
roll itbackintoaballandputonatray.Repeat
untilall theminceandeggsareused.
■ Prepare3separatebowlsofflour,beaten
eggandpankocrumbsreadyforcoating.Roll
eachball in flour,shakeoffanyexcess, then
dip it inthebeatenegg,makingsure it’s fully
coatedandfinallyroll it in thepankocrumbs.
Repeatwiththerestof theballs.Youcan
coattheballs twice inbeateneggandpanko
crumbsforabettercrust.Refrigeratefor30
minutesbeforefrying.
■ Pourthevegetableoil intoamedium
saucepanuntilaboutone-thirdfull thenheat
theoil to 190°Covermedium–highheat.Test
it’shotenoughbydroppingacubeofbread
intotheoil – itshouldbrowninabout30
seconds.Working inbatches,deep-frythe
scotcheggsfor3minutes,oruntilgolden
brown.Removewithaslottedspoonand
drainonkitchentowel.
■ Toserve,putadollopofwasabimayo
onthebottomhalvesofthebuns, topwith
ascotcheggandputonthetops.Usea
toothpicktosecureacornichonontopof
eachslider.
TESTEDBY
AnnaGlover
I really likeScotcheggs
–maybeabit too
much.Whenever Isee
themonthemenu,
I feel inclinedtoget
one(ortwo),althoughI’vetriedafew
disappointinghard-yolkedandsoggy-
crumbedones.
I’vemadethemafewtimesathomefor
friendsandassoonas Isawthisrecipe,
IknewIhadtotrythisversion.All the
elementswererightupmystreetand
together?Well that’sgenius!Thekickofthe
wasabi,creaminessofthemayoandthe
crunchofthebreadcrumbsaroundthe
earthyblackpudding–heavenly.Nowall
Ineededwasanexcusetomakethem.
Whenacoupleof friendsfromManchester
cametostayoneweekend, itwastheperfect
opportunity. Iknewtheywouldn’tbefazedby
blackpudding,andanythingdeep-fried in
breadcrumbscompensatesfor initial
reservations,asonefriendput itwhowasn’t
originallysoldonthe idea. It tickedall the
boxes.Minewerea little largerthanyour
averageslider,abithardertoeatwithout
dissectingafewofthecomponents,butthe
flavourwasfantastic.Theblackpudding
combinedwiththesausagemeatwasa
perfectcombinationofsalty,crumblyand
delicatelyherby,against therichnessofthe
quail’segg.Thewasabimayonnaisebrought
thewholethingtogether,cuttingthrough
withthevinegarycornichonsandsoft floury
bap. It’sanewfavouritesnackofmine.
I foundpeelingthequail’seggsabit tricky
andtime-consuming,butotherthanthis, the
recipewassurprisinglyeasytofollow. Iused
morepankobreadcrumbsthanstatedas
Idouble-coatedmineandtheyturnedout
a littlebiggerthanIoriginallyexpected,but
theywereshowstopperswhenIplatedthem
up– Igotafantasticreactionfrommyguests.
All the ingredientsareeasytofind inthe
supermarketsso Ididn’tneedtodoany
specialistshopping.
Nextonmylist totryfromthebook is
twice-cookedporkbellywithappleand
cabbageslawandtheporkandchive
dumplingnoodlesoup.Theroastduckand
lycheeredcurry looksreallyexcitingtoo.
Recipe from Billy
Law’s Have you
Eaten (Hardie
Grant, £25)
Anna’s version
60 O MARCH 2014
eat in/weekend
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*Sunflower oil naturally contains omega-6. Flora contains omegas-3 & 6 that help to maintain normal cholesterol levels.WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
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Vietnamese food offers a culinary awakening for eventhe most jaded palate. It screams freshness in its varietyof raw herbs used to punctuate dishes and itscontrasting textures and flavours – soft, gooey and
crunchy, sweet, sharp and sour – meld together to create anexplosion of sensations like no other. For me, it was love at first bite.
I moved toVietnam nearly 20 years ago to learn about its foodand discover what I felt would be ‘the new cuisine’, planning toeventually return to San Francisco and open aVietnamese-inspired restaurant. But I fell in love with the people, the lifestyleand (of course) the food, which is healthy, often gluten-free,low-fat and easy to cook.
Vietnamese cuisine is very different from the rest of itsneighbours in Southeast Asia who embraced the chilli and thespice trade.Vietnamese food is subtle and light, borrowingtechniques from the French and Chinese, creating and perfectinga very ‘modern’ cuisine 1,000 years ago.
I opened House of Ho to bring my style of modernVietnamesecooking to Soho.The food is a cumulation of the past 18 yearsthat I have been living and working in both Hanoi and Saigon.Some people think it is a quirky, contemporary approach toVietnamese cookery, but I always try to give a respectful nodto the country’s fascinating culinary culture. House of Ho isa 90-seat restaurant that also has a small private dining room,art by well-knownVietnamese artists and a long bar where wehave had fun concocting some great cocktails.
Sautéed beef with ricenoodles and salad (bún bò)15 minutes + marinating ■ Serves 2
■ EASY
Youcanbuycrispyfriedshallots intubs
insomesupermarketsandAsianstores
ordeep-fryslicedshallotsuntilcrisp.
Whenyoucookthericenoodles,allow
themtocool intoasticky lumprather
thanseparatingthemout.
beef fillet 100g, thinlysliced
vegetable oil
lemon grass 1 tsp, finelychopped
coriander 5g,chopped
mixed salad leaves 50g,shredded
cooked rice noodles 100g
garlic 1 tspof finelychopped
beef stock or water 2tbsp
beansprouts 50g
crispy-fried shallots 1 tbsp
toasted sesame seeds 1 tbsp, toasted
toasted peanuts 1 tbsp,chopped
NUOCCHAMSAUCE
sugar 3tsp
Thai birds eye chilli 1 finger-length,
finelychopped
garlic 2cloves,crushed
lime juice 1 tbsp
fish sauce 2tbsp
■ Tomakethenuocchamsauce,putthe
sugarinasmallpanwith60mlwater.Bringto
theboilthensetaside.Whencool,combine
withthechilli,garlicandlimejuice.Mixwell
andstir inthefishsauce.
■ Tossthesteakwith1tspoilandthe
choppedlemongrassandleaveforabout
15minutestomarinate.
■ Prepareeachbowlbyaddingsome
herbsandsaladandtoppingwithaclump
ofricenoodles.
■ Heatfryingpanoverahighheatandsear
thebeef.Letitsitforafewminutesbefore
shakingthepantocreatealittle
caramelisation.
■ Stirtoensureit isallevenlycookedthen
addthegarlicandcookforafewminutes
more,makingsurethatitdoesnotburn.
■ Keepingtheheathigh,addthebeefstock
orwater,scrapingthepantoreleasethe
caramelisedjuices.
■ Throwinthebeansproutsandcoverfor
aminutewhiletheysoftenabit.Addalittle
nuocchamsauceandtosstogether.
■ Spoonthebeefandbeansproutswiththeir
juicesintothebowls.Garnishwithshallots,
toastedsesameseedsandpeanuts.Servethe
restofthenuocchamontheside.
62 O MARCH 2014
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BeinspiredtocookauthenticAsiandisheswiththesevibrantVietnameserecipesfromBobbyChinn–chefandownerofnewLondonrestaurant,TheHouseofHoWordsandrecipesBOBBYCHINNPhotographsJASONLOWE
VIETNAMCooklikealocal
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Sake steamed clams(ngao hap ríáu sake)25 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY
clams 2 kg, cleaned
red chillies 5, pounded
sake 125ml
ginger 20g, 1/2 crushed and1/2 finely chopped
lemon grass stalks 2, bruised, plus 2 tbsp
chopped lemon grass
garlic 2 tbsp crushed
tomato skinned and diced to make 2 tbsp
coriander leaves 2 tbsp, chopped
kaffir lime leaves 2 tsp, thinly sliced
■ First,cleantheclamsbysoakingthemfor
30minutesinwaterwiththepoundedchillies.
■ Heatawide,shallowpotbigenoughforthe
clamsonthestove.Addthesake,crushed
ginger, lemongrassstalks,garlicand400ml
water,andbringtotheboil.
■ Addthedrainedclams,coverandsteam
for3minutes,oruntiltheyopen.Liftoutthe
openedclamsintoservingbowls.
■ Pourthehotstockovertheclamsand
scatterwiththeginger, lemongrass,tomato,
corianderandlimeleaftoserve.
Chicken wings cooked incaramel sauce and ginger(cánh gà kho gïng)1 hour ■ Serves 4 as a snack ■ EASY
Thisrecipemakesmorecaramelsaucethan
you’llneedbut itwillkeepinthefridgefor
acoupleofweeks.
chicken wings 700g
ginger 20g, finely shredded
caramel sauce 3 tbsp, at room temperature
(see recipe below)
salt 1/2 tsp
sugar 3 tbsp
fish sauce 2 tbsp
ground black pepper 1 tsp
CARAMEL SAUCE
dark muscovado sugar 100g
fish sauce 2 tbsp
hot chicken stock or water 200ml
red chilli 1/2
lime juice 1/2 tsp
cinnamon stick 1 small or 1 tsp ground
cinnamon (optional)
black peppercorns 1 tsp (optional)
■ Tomakethecaramelsauce,putthedark
muscovadosugarwith2tbspwaterinadeep
panandheatslowlyuntilthesugarhas
melted,makingsureitdoesnotburnatthe
edges.Oncefullymelted,turntheheatupand
boil,swirlingthepanuntilyouhaveacaramel.
Beverycarefulwhendoingthis,asthesugar
cancausenastyburns.
■ Oncethesugaris justalittlebitdarker,turn
theheatofftostopitovercooking.Remove
yourspoonfromthepotandpourthefish
sauceintothecaramel(thefishsauceshould
beatroomtemperature).Dothisvery
carefully,asitwillsplatterviolently.Addthe
hotstockorwatertothinthesaucethen
addthechilliandlimejuice.Thehotliquid
willpreventthesugarfromcrystallising,
butif italreadyhas, justcookit longeruntil
itdissolves.Reducetheheatandaddthe
cinnamonandpeppercorns.
■ Cuteachwingintoits3mainpieces:the
mainwingjoint,thesecondjointandthewing
tip. Iusuallysavethetipsforstock,unlessIam
totallyfamished.
■ Inasaucepan,addtheshreddedginger
totheroomtemperaturecaramelsauce.
Addthesalt, sugar, fishsauce,pepperand
500mlwater.Overhighheat,bringthe
mixturetoarapidboiluntil it thickensthen
turntheheatrightdownandaddthe
chickenwingpieces.Simmer,stirring
occasionally, for30-40minutesoruntil
thechicken isverytenderandcoated inthe
caramelsauce.Skimoffanyexcessfat.Serve
onabedofAsianslawmadefromshredded
daikon ifyou like.
eat in/weekend
MARCH 2014 O 63
Recipes are
adapted and tested
by theO team,
taken from his
book, Bobby
Chinn’sVietnamese
Food (Conran,
£17.99). Available
toO readers
for £12 with free
UK p&p*.
TRUSTO
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MENU DECODERKnow what to order whether you are in Vietnam or at your
local Vietnamese restaurant
PhoThe national dish of Vietnam made with ricenoodles. It is silky and smooth, with tender shredsof chicken or beef in a broth so clear it could passas a consommé.Sweet and sour fish soupFound in manyrestaurants throughout Vietnam, usually featuringtwo contrasting sweet/sour ingredients – forexample, pineapple and tamarind.Bun boA warm beef noodle salad with a verylight sweet and sour broth. One of the best-lovedVietnamese dishes, you’re most likely to find thisclassic street food fare in Hanoi.Summer rollsA fresh rice paper wrap filledwith sticky rice noodles, julienne of carrots,cucumbers, herbs and salad leaves, often finishedwith a couple of slices of roasted pork and boiledshrimp and served with a dipping sauce of hoisinand roasted chopped peanuts. The deep-friedversion is filled with cellophane noodles, mincedpork, spring onions, slivers of mushrooms andserved with Nuoc cham, a classic dip made withfish sauce, sugar, water, lime juice seasoned withgarlic and chilli.Banh cuonThin steamed rice paper rolled andstuffed with minced pork, chopped mushrooms,thin slices of shallots and garnished with shrimppowder and deep-fried shallots. Paired with anenriched version of Nuoc cham.ChèThere are several versions of this distinctivedessert, including sweet corn, tapioca, sweetenedblack beans and mung bean purée. Each is servedover crushed ice, sweetened with coconut creamand garnished with chopped roasted peanuts orroasted shaved coconut flesh.
IF THIS HAS INSPIRED YOU TO VISIT VIETNAM,READ OUR CHEF’S GUIDE ON PAGE 107
Hanoi calamari salad(n·m môc há noi)30 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY
squid 2small, cleaned
birds eye chillies 2,slicedatanangle
lime juice2tbsp
fish sauce 2tbsp
dark muscovado sugar 1/2 tsp
garlic crushedtomake 1tsp
ginger averysmallchunk,peeled
andfinelyshredded
onion 1/4 small, thinlysliced
celery 1/4 ofasmallstalk,stringsremoved
andfinely shredded
Thai basil leaves, toserve
SALAD
avocado 1,peeled,stonedanddiced
tomatoes 2large,skinnedanddiced
rocket ahandfulof leaves
TAMARINDSAUCE
tamarind purée 2 1/2 tbsp
palm sugar 1 tbsp,dissolved inasplash
ofboilingwater
apple juice 1 1/2 tbsp
ground cumin 1/4 tsp
VINAIGRETTE
balsamic vinegar 1 tbsp
olive oil 1 tbsp
vegetable oil 1 tbsp
dark muscovado sugar 1/2 tbsp
Dijon mustard 1/4 tsp
■ Cutthesquidbodiesopenlengthwaysand
scorewithfinecriss-crosscuts.Bringapanof
saltedwatertotheboilandhaveabowlof
waterwithahandfulof iceready.Blanchthe
squidintheboilingwaterfor20-30seconds.
Removewithaslottedspoonandputinthe
icedwatertostopthecooking.
■ Inasmallbowl,mixtogetherhalfthe
chillies,thelimejuice,fishsauceandsugar
tomakeamarinadeandsetaside.
■ Whenthesquidiscool,drainitandpatdry.
Putthesquidinabowlwith 1/4 tspsalt,apinch
ofblackpepper,garlicandginger.Stir,addthe
onion,celeryandremainingchilliandmix
together.Pourthemarinadeoverthesquid
andleavetostandforatleast15minutes.
■ Whiskthevinaigretteingredientstogether
and makethesaladbytossingtheingredients
withthevinaigretteuntil lightlycoated.
■ Arrangethesaladonaservingplateorin
ashallowbowlandtopwiththesquid.Mixthe
ingredientsforthetamarindsauceandspoon
aroundtheedge.FinishwithThaibasil leaves.
eat in/weekend
64 O MARCH 2014
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Step away from the melted cheese.Would Miss Mooreplease step away, NOW, from the melted cheese.Thereshould have been a tannoy. I needed a tannoy, or at leastsomeone to remind me when to stop – or even just that
stopping was an option. It had been years since I’d eaten fondueand I’d forgotten how completely delicious it is.Also howterrifyingly much cheese it is possible to eat when it’s melted.Twoof us polished off all of this between us – and imagine sitting downto eat half a pound of cold cheese.You just wouldn’t, would you.That may be why I had to have a bit of a lie down on the floor ofour rented NationalTrust cottage (happily it was clean) afterwards.It’s also why I recommend sharing it between four.As for the wine,well cheese fondue is the sort of thing you imagine eating on a coldnight halfway up a mountain and it’s Alpine whites that I think offirst.You want good acidity for refreshment, little or no oak, and alithe, breezy taste. Something so fresh it feels like the sting of coldair that hits your face on a snowy ski lift. Picpoul will work. If youmust drink sauvignon blanc make sure it’s a grassy one from theLoire or a clear one from Bordeaux as gooseberries and gruyèreis an odd match. Gruner veltliner is good.As is savagnin, a whitevariety mainly from the Jura. Light reds can be a bracingcombination, too – try marcillac or a simple beaujolais villages.
Cheese fondue30 minutes ■ Serves 4 as a starter
■ EASY
gruyère200g,grated
emmenthal 200g,grated
white wine 175ml
garlic 1clove,peeled
cornflour2tsp
kirsch 1 tbsp
TOSERVE
radishes 1 smallbunch,washed
carrots2,peeledandcut intobatons
white chicory 2,outer leavesseparated,
heartscut intoquarters
red pepper 1, seededandcut intostrips
soughdough2slices, toastedandcut
intofingers
■ Putthegratedcheese,wineandgarlic in
abowlbalancedoverasaucepanfullof
boilingwatertomakeabainmarie.Continue
toheat,stirringoccasionally,until thecheese
hascompletelymelted intothewine.Season.
Stir inthecornflourandkirsch.Removethe
bowlfromthesaucepan,putonthetable,or
transfertoawarmservingdish,andserve
withvegandbreadfordipping.
■ PER SERVING 446 kcals, protein 28.1g , carbs
4.3g, fat 31.5g, sat fat 19.7g, fibre 0.1g, salt 1.4g
VictoriaMoorewritesforTheTelegraph
andistheauthorofHowtoDrink
(Granta,£12.99*).
MARCH 2014 O 65
eat in/weekendP
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Ourexpertsuggestsnewwinestodrinkwiththedishesyou lovebest, includinganexcellentbargainbottle WordsandrecipeVICTORIAMOORE
Domaine Wachau Terraces GrunerVeltliner
2012 Austria, 13% (£9.99,Waitrose)
Grunerveltlinerhasadelicateflavour(think
whitepepperandcitruspith)anda light
touch.Watchoutforthisonpromotionwhen
itcomesdownto£7.99.
Domaine du Cros Lo Sang del Pais Marcillac
2012 France, 12.5% (£7.95,TheWine
Society)This isa lightredwithreal tang
madefromagrapecalledferservadou.Sang
meansblood inFrenchand, trueto itsname,
itdoeshaveahintof iron.
Langhe Arneis 2012 Italy, 13% (£12.99,
M&S)Arneis is the(little-known)grapefrom
thenorth-westof Italy.This isallclean,clear
lines, laser-like intheirprecision,
withatingeofaniseedandnooak.
FOUR TO TRY WITHCHEESE FONDUE
BARGAIN
£5.59Moncaro Verdicchio dei
Castelli di Jesi Classico 2012
Marche, Italy, 12.5% (£5.59,
Waitrose) Italiansareextremely
goodatcrispwhitenumbers
andthisone’sarealstar.
Slightlyherbaceousand
very lucid.
Victoria’swinematchCheese fondue
NEXTMONTH
Boeuf bourguignonONSALE5MARCH
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66 O MARCH 2014
Steak andale pudding
Makingasavourysteamedpuddingfromscratch iseasierthanyouthinkwithstep-by-stephelpfromO’s testkitchenPhotographsDAVIDMUNNS
Makeyourown
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1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
10 11 12
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MARCH 2014 O 67
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Steak and ale pudding2 1/2 hours+2hourssteaming
■ Serves 4 ■ A LITTLE EFFORT
oil
onion 1 large,halvedandsliced
chestnut mushrooms 200g,quartered
braising steak 400g,cut into2cmpieces
andtrimmedoffat
plain flour 1 tbsp,seasoned
tomato purée 1 tsp
brown ale or Guinness 300ml
rosemary 1 sprig, leavespickedandchopped
SUETPASTRY
self-raising flour 250g
shredded beef suet 125g
➊Heatadrizzleofoil ina largefryingpan
andcooktheonionsandmushroomsuntil
golden, thenscoopout.Tossthesteak inthe
seasonedflourandfryuntilbrowned(you
mightneedadropmoreoil).Addbackthe
onionsandmushroomsandaddthetomato
purée,brownaleandthyme,stirringthem
togetherthoroughly.Bringtoasimmer,cover
andcookfor2hoursbeforeleavingtocool.
➋ Tomakethepastry,puttheflour,suet,1/2 tspsaltandagoodgrindofpepper in
abowl.Graduallymix in 150mlcoldwater
withadinnerknifeuntil itmakesadough.
➌Bringtogether intoaball,wrap inclingfilm
andrest inthefridgefor30minutes.
➍,➎,➏Roll thesuetpastryouttoacircle
about 1cmthickandcutaquarteroutofthe
circleandkeepforthetop.Usetherestof
thepastryto lineawell-buttered1 litre
puddingbasincrimpingtheendstogether.
➐,➑Fill the linedbasinwiththesteakmix
thenre-roll the leftoverpastrytomakea lid.
Crimptheedgestogethertoseal.
➒Layasheetofbutteredbakingpaperon
topofasheetof foil, foldapleat inthemiddle
andsmoothdowntosharpenthepleat.
➓Putthedoublesheetontopofthe
puddingbakingpapersidedownandmould
tothetopofthebasinwithyourhands.
Tiewithstringundertherimofthebasin
andtieahandletomake iteasiertomove.
Trimanyexcessfoil thenput inasteamer
oronanupturnedsaucer ina largepanand
pourboilingwatertohalfwayupthesidesof
thebowl.Steamfor2hourskeepinganeye
onthewater level.Toserve,unwrapthen
carefully turnoutontoaservingplate.
■ PER SERVING 675 kcals, protein 28.7g, carbs
58.3g, fat 34.9g, sat fat 18.4g, fibre 4.9g, salt 1.4g
How did you get on? Share your
photo on twitter or on our facebook page
– we’d love to see your results.
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Franck Raymond was taught tocook by his grandmother andhis first restaurant,AugustineKitchen, is named after her.
The menu at this neighborhood bistrocentres on cuisine from his native Evianregion of France, and much of the menu,from the charcuterie to the fish, iscarefully sourced from there.There areclassic French starters such as cassouletof snails with garlic and parsley, £5.50,and hearty mains including rack of lamb,£16.95, and roast duck magret, £17.95.Desserts, however, are Franck’s specialityand he is a self-confessed chocolate loverwho likes to experiment with differentflavour combinations.This decadentchocolate mousse, £4.95, is delicious aswell as simple to make at home. Franckserves it with seasonal fruit – you can usefrozen raspberries or serve with poachedpear, oranges or passion fruit.63 Battersea Bridge Road,London,SW11(020 7978 7085; Augustine-kitchen.co.uk)
Dotrythisathome
Chocolate mousse30 minutes + overnight setting ■ Serves 8
■ EASY
dark chocolate 200g,broken intopieces
eggs6,separated
golden caster sugar25g
double cream 150ml,softlywhipped
seasonal fruit toserve(raspberries,passion
fruit,orangesegmentsorpoachedpear)
CRUMBLETOPPING
butter25g
plain flour25g
golden caster sugar20g
ground almonds 20g
cocoa powder 1 tsp
■ Tomakethemousse,putthechocolate
inaheatproofbowlandadd2tbspofwater.
Putthebowloverapanofsimmering
water,untilthechocolatemelts,making
surethebottomofthebowldoesn’ttouch
thewater.
■ Beattheeggwhiteswithapinchofsalt
until stiffandbeattheyolkswiththesugar
until they’rea littlepaler.Oncethechocolate
hascooledslightly,pourovertheeggyolks
andmixwell.
■ Graduallyaddtheeggwhitesandfold
inverygentlywitha largemetalspoon.
Dividebetweeneightsmallservingdishes
and leavetosetovernight inthefridge.
■ Tomakethecrumbletopping,heatthe
ovento150C/fan130/gas2.Rubthebutter
withtheflouruntil it resemblesbreadcrumbs
thenstir intherestof the ingredients.Spread
overabakingtrayandbakefor 10minutes,
then leavetocool.
■ Toservethemousse,topwithaspoonof
creamandsprinkleoversomeofthecrumble
topping.Servewithseasonalfruit.
■ PER SERVING 371kcal 7.8g protein 17.2g
carbs 29g fat 15.3g sat fat 2.9g fibre 0.2g salt
Augustine Kitchen’schocolate mousseArich,silkydessertthat’ssimpletomakebutguaranteedto impressWordsDANIELLETHEUNISSEN PhotographsJOSHKEARNS
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Ginger andpork pattieswithnoodles(page 86)
Singapore crab noodles✴Quick black bean chilli ✴Cauliflower and ginger curry
✴Spinach and feta quesadillas✴Smoky chipotle meatballs ✴Pork chops with apple mash
eatineverydayWe know you don’t have much time midweek to search for trickyingredients or spend hours cooking elaborate dinners, but it’s stillpossible to eat something imaginative and satisfying. Our everydaysuppers are quick and easy. This month you’ll find a great-value
family pasta, a Friday night curry for two, healthy spiced chicken,plus how to make the most of veg box stalwart, cauliflower.
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£35formeals7
Planyourweekwith foodeditorJanineRatcliffe’seasy,great-valuemealsfortwoorfourRecipesJANINERATCLIFFE PhotographsSAMSTOWELL
One of the things I’ve learnt fromwriting this feature every month isthat sometimes it only costs a littlebit more to double up on a recipe,especially if your main ingredient issomething that comes in a pack likebeef mince or you have to buysomething whole, like a squash. I’llbe including more meals that feedfour people so you can make afamily-sized supper if needed, or ifthere are two of you, you can savethe rest for lunch the next day orfreeze it for later.
*Recipe costings are based on the exact amount of ingredients used. For example 125g of butter
will be costed at half the price of a 250g pack. Our costings are always based on free range
eggs and high welfare meat.
SHOPPING BASKET
onions 4
red chilli 1
ginger asmallchunk
butternut squash 1about 1kg
parsleyabunch
rosemary 2sprigs
chopped tomatoes 4x400gtins
double cream 100ml
parmesan 2tbspplusextratoserve
rigatoni 300g
beef mince 500g
red onion 1 1/2
coriander 2smallbunches
chipotle paste 2tbsp
soured cream 4tbsp
avocado 1
orzo 1pack
pancetta cubes 75g
shallot 1
roasted red peppers 3 fromajar
Ingredients you’ll need
butterbeans 400gtin
rocket 50g
crusty bread
jungle curry paste 2tbsp(ThaiTaste
makesaveryauthenticone)
skinless chicken thigh fillets 300g
baby corn and green bean mixed
pack 150g
lime 1
cooked basmati rice 1pack
ciabatta mix 300g
halloumi 250gblock
red chilli 1
floury potatoes 500g
Bramley apple 1about200g
pork chops 2fatones,onthebone
thyme afewsprigs
dry cider 250ml
green beans 150g
STORECUPBOARD
olive oil
garlic
cumin seeds
ground coriander
vegetable stock
chicken stock
sherry or red wine vinegar
fish sauce
brown sugar
capers
butter
oil for frying
flour
horseradish sauce
£33.96TOTAL FOR
7 MEALS*
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MONDAYSpiced squash soup50minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY
olive oil
onions 2,roughlychopped
garlic 2cloves, roughlychopped
red chilli 1, finelysliced
ginger asmallchunk,grated
butternut squash 1about 1kg,peeled,seeds
scoopedoutand cut intochunks
cumin seeds 2tsp, toasted
ground coriander 1 tsp
veg or chicken stock 800ml
parsley ahandful,chopped(optional)
■ Heat2tbspoliveoil inapanandfrythe
onion,garlic,chilliandgingeruntil soft.Add
thesquashandspicesandcookforafew
minutesthentip inthestockandsimmer
until thesquash issoftandyoucanmashit
withthebackofaspoon.Puteverything in
ablenderandwhizzuntil smooth.Adda
handfulof freshparsleytofinish ifyou like.
■ PER SERVING 193 kcals, protein 10g , carbs
25.5g, fat 6.4g, sat fat 1g, fibre 7.6g, salt 0.6g
FEEDS 4 FOR
£1.92
Thisalsotastes
greatusingsweet
potato instead
ofsquash
eat in/everyday
MARCH 2014 O 73
COOK’S
NOTES
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TUESDAYRigatoni withtomato, rosemaryand parmesan sauce30 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY
onion 1,grated
rosemary ahandful,choppedtomake1tsp
olive oil
garlic 2cloves,crushed
chopped tomatoes2x400gtins
double cream 100ml
parmesan finelygratedtomake2tbspplus
extratoserve
rigatoni 300g
FEEDS 4 FOR
£2.98
Thissauce isvery
adaptable–try
pouring itover
whitefishfilletsand
baking intheoven
COOK’S
NOTES
■ Cooktheonionandrosemary in2tbsp
oliveoiluntil soft.Addthegarlicandcook
foracouplemoreminutesbeforetipping
inthetomatoes.Simmerfor20minutesuntil
it is reducedandthickened.
■ Stir inthecreamandsimmerforacouple
moreminutesbeforestiring intheparmesan.
Cookthepasta,drainandtosswiththe
sauce.Servewithextraparmesanifyou like.
PER SERVING 458kcals, protein 14.2g, carbs
49g, fat 23.2g, sat fat 10.6g, fibre 2.7g, salt 0.4g
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FEEDS 4 FOR
£7.92
WEDNESDAYSmoky chipotle meatballs40 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY
beef mince 500g
red onion 1 large,grated
coriander asmallbunch,chopped
chipotle paste 2tbsp
olive oil
garlic 1clove,crushed
chopped tomatoes 2x400gtins
chicken stock 200ml
soured cream 4tbsp
avocado 1, slicedtoserve
orzo, cookedtoserve
■ Putthemince,halfofboththeonionand
corianderand1tbspofthechipotlepaste in
abowl.Mixtogetherthoroughlyandform
into20smallmeatballs.
■ Heata littleoliveoil inapan,addthe
meatballsandfryuntilbrownedalloverthen
scoopout.Addtherestof thegratedonion
andgarlic tothesamepanandcookuntil
softened.Addtherestof the
chipotlepasteandcookfora
minutethentip inthe
tomatoesandchickenstock.
Simmerfor 10-15minutesuntil
thesaucehasthickened
beforeaddingbackthe
meatballsandcookingfor
another 10minutes.
■ Serveonorzowithsoured
cream,someavocadoand
scatteredwiththeextracoriander.
■ PER SERVING 385kcals,protein29.7g,
carbs11.8g,fat24.4g,satfat10.7g,fibre3.3g,
salt0.8g
Makethese
meatballswith
mincedturkeyor
pork ifyouprefer
COOK’S
NOTES
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THURSDAYWarm roasted pepperand butterbean salad10 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY
pancetta cubes75g
olive oil
shallot 1, sliced
roasted red peppers 3 fromajar,drained
andsliced
butterbeans 400gtin, rinsedanddrained
sherry or red wine vinegar
rocket 50g, toserve
crusty bread toserve
■ Cookthepancetta in2tbsp
oliveoiluntilgolden.Addtheshallotsand
cookforacoupleofminutesuntil softened,
thentip inthepeppers,butterbeansand
splashofvinegarandstiruntilheated
through.Seasonthenpileontoplateswith
therocketandservewithlotsofcrustybread.
■ PER SERVING 331 kcals, protein 14g, carbs
18.2g, fat 22.2g, sat fat 6g, fibre 5.9g, salt 1.2g
FEEDS 2 FOR
£3.65
Leaveoutthepancetta
COOK’S
NOTES
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COOK’S
NOTES
MARCH 2014 O 77
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FRIDAYQuick Thai jungle curry20 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY
IfyoulikehotThairedcurry, trythis
junglecurry– it’snotasrichas itcontains
nococonutmilk,butbeware, it ISfiery.
jungle curry paste 2tbsp
(ThaiTastemakeaveryauthenticone)
chicken stock 300ml
coriander a smallbunch,
stalksfinelychopped, leaves
leftwhole
skinless chicken thigh fillet 300g,sliced
baby corn and sugr snap mixed pack 150g
fish sauce
brown or other sugar
lime 1, 1/2 juiced, 1/2 cut intowedges
basmati rice toserve
■ Heatanon-stickpanandput inthecurry
pasteandasplashofthestock.Fryforafew
minutesuntilyoucansmellallof the
aromaticsfromthepaste.Addtherestof the
stockandcorianderstalksandsimmerfor
2-3minutes.Addthechickenandsimmer
until thechicken iscookedthrough.Addthe
vegandcookforacoupleofminutesuntil
just tender.Stir inagoodsplashoffishsauce,
1 tspofsugarandthe limejuiceandcookfor
30seconds.Servewithrice,ascatteringof
thecoriander leavesandwith limewedges
tosqueezeover.
■ PER SERVING 254 kcals, protein 38.9g ,
carbs 7g, fat 8g, sat fat 1.4g, fibre 3.1g, salt 1.8g
FEEDS 2 FOR
£6.79
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78 O MARCH 2014
Foranevenquicker
supper,servefried
slicesofhalloumi
withthedressing
spoonedover
withsomewarm
pittabreads
COOK’S
NOTES
SATURDAYHalloumi pizzettes withcaper and chilli dressing25 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY
ciabatta mix 300g
halloumi 250gblock,verythinlysliced
red onion 1/2, verythinlysliced
olive oil
capers 2tbsp,drained
red chilli 1, finelychopped
garlic 1/2 smallclove,crushed
parsleyahandful,choppedtoserve
■ Heattheovento200C/fan180C/gas6.
Makeuptheciabattamixanddivide into2.
Rollout intoovalsandputthemonalarge
bakingsheet.Dividethehalloumiandred
onionbetweenthem,seasonanddrizzlewith
a littleoil.Bakefor 10-12minutesuntilpuffed.
■ Mixtherestof the ingredientswith2tbsp
oliveoilandseason.Spoonoverthehot
pizzettesbeforeeating.
PER SERVING 435 kcals, protein 19.7g , carbs
34.6g, fat 24g, sat fat 10.8g, fibre 1.7g, salt 3g
FEEDS 4 FOR
£3.60
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SUNDAYPork chops withapple mash45 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY
floury potatoes 500g,peeledandchopped
Bramley apple 1about200g,peeled
andchopped
butter
oil for frying
pork chops 2fatones,onthe
boneifpossible
onion 1 large,halvedandthinlysliced
thyme afewsprigs
plain flour 1heapedtsp
dry cider 250ml
horseradish sauce 1 tbsp
green beans 150g
■ Putthepotatoes inapanwith lotsof
seasoningandabigknobofbutter.Add
enoughwaterto justcoverthenbringto
aboil, turndownandgentlysimmerfor 10
minutes.Addtheappleandcookuntil the
applesandpotatoesaretender(theapple
willgoabitmushyas it’saBramleybutdon’t
worry).Tipeverything intoasieveor
colanderand leavetodrain.
■ Heataheavyfryingpanuntil it isveryhot.
Rubthechopswithoilandseason.Using
tongs,holdthechopsfatsidedowninthe
panuntil thefat iscrispandgoldenthenput
flatsidedowninthepanandsearfor
afewminutesoneachsideuntilwell
browned.Liftoutthen lowertheheatand
addtheonions.
■ Fryforabout20minutesuntilverysoft
anddarkgolden(don’tskipthisstepas
itgivesthefinishedsauceareallydeep
colour).Addthethymeandflourandstir
until theflourhasbeensoakedup.Gradually
stir intheciderandbubbleuptoasauce.
Simmerfor2minutesthenaddbackthe
chopsandgivethemanother5-7minutes
inthesauce, turninguntil cookedthrough.
Tipthepotatoandappleback into itspan
andmashwithanotherknobofbutterand
thehorseradish.Stiruntil reheated.Serve
thechops,sauceandmashwithbuttered
greenbeans.
■ PER SERVING 718 kcals, protein 43g , carbs
71.5g, fat 25.8g, sat fat 9.6g, fibre 9g, salt 0.9g
Tryceleriac
insteadofpotato
inthismash, itgoes
verywellwithapple
COOK’S
NOTES
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MARCH 2014 O 79
FEEDS 2 FOR
£7.10
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everything you want from a magazine at this
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FORALLYOURPREGNANCY,NEWMUM&1STYEAR INFO!
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Inspired byGRAIN STORE, LONDONAlthoughBrunoLoubert’snewestrestaurant
isn’tstrictlyvegetarian,theemphasisisfirmly
onveg:innovativedisheslikethebuttermilk
andcaraway-braisedcauliflowerwithblack
trompettesandfreshgrapes,takeprideofplace
onthemenuratherthanbeingrelegated
tosidedishes.(grainstore.com)
TRY OUR VERSION
Roasted cauliflowerand grape salad withbuttermilk dressing50 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY
cauliflower 2,broken intochunkyflorets
olive oil
caraway seeds 2tsp
cumin seeds 2tsp
red grapes 200g
parsley asmallbunch, leavespicked
mint asmallbunch, leavespicked
hazelnuts 150g, toasted
lemon 1, juiced
buttermilk75ml
tahini 11/2 tbsp
■ Heattheovento200C/fan180C/gas6.
Putthecaulifloweronaparchment-lined
bakingtraywith2tbspofoil, thespicesand
plentyofseasoningandtosstogether.Roast
for20minutes.Tossthegrapeswithanother
tbspofoil,addtothecauliflowerandcarry
onroastingfor5-10minutesmoreuntil the
cauliflowerbeginstobrownattheedgesand
grapesstart tosoften.
■ Choptheherbsandthenutssothey’restill
chunky.Whisk 1 tbspoilwiththe lemonjuice,
buttermilkandtahiniandseason.Holdback
afewoftheherbsandscattertherestwith
thenuts,cauliflowerandgrapesonabig
platter.Drizzleoversomeofthedressing,
andtopwiththerestof theherbs.
PER SERVING 518 kcals, protein 17.7g, carbs
19.5g, fat 42.1g, sat fat 4.5g, fibre 8.2g, salt 0.1g
Chefsaregreatatmakingeverydayingredientsspecial.We’vebeeninspiredbythreerestaurants
tocreatetheseeasybut imaginativedishesPhotographsSAMSTOWELL
CAULIFLOWER3wayswith
eat in/everyday
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Inspired byLUNYA, LIVERPOOLAswellasbeingaBritishwinterstaple,cauli
isverypopularinSpainandthespiced
cauliflowerandmanchegofrituraswith
romescosauceareayear-roundfixtureof
thisCatalanrestaurantanddeli
inLiverpool’scitycentre.
(lunya.co.uk)
TRY OUR VERSION
Cauliflower and manchegofritters with romesco relish1 hour 10 minutes ■ Serves 4as light lunch
■ EASY
cauliflower 350g,stalksremoved
plain flour 100g
eggs 4,beaten
manchego 200g,half finelygrated,half
diced into1cmcubes
spring onions 3, finelysliced
parsley roughlychoppedtomake4tbsp
lemons 2zested, thencut intowedges
toserve
oil
FORTHERELISH
olive oil 1 tbsp
garlic 2cloves,crushed
whole blanched almonds 50g,
finelychopped
red chilli 1, seededandfinelychopped
tomatoes 250g,diced
light soft brown sugar 50g
red wine vinegar 50g
whole roasted peppers3, fromajar
■ Fortherelish,heattheoil inamedium
fryingpan, thenaddthegarlicandalmonds
andgently fryuntil theystart toturngolden.
Stir inthechilli foraminute, followedbythe
tomatoes,sugarandvinegar.Simmerfor
15minutesuntil thetomatoesaresoftened
andsticky.Wipethepeppersofanyseeds,
dice, thenstir intothetomatoeswithsome
seasoningandleaveatroomtemperature.
■ Boilabigsaucepanofwater.Chopthe
cauliflowersoyouendupwithamixofvery
small floretsandsomefinerstuff.Addto
thewater,andboil for3minutesthendrain
immediately.Tipback intothepanovera low
heatanddryoutforafewminutes.
■ Puttheflourandagoodamountofsalt
inamixingbowl.Graduallymix intheeggs
tomakeasmoothbatter.Stir inthegrated
anddicedcheese,springonions,parsley
andlemonzest, thenverygently fold
throughthecookedcauliflower.
■ Puttheovenonlowsoyoucankeep
thefritterswarmasyoufry inbatches.Heat
adrizzleofoil inanon-stickfryingpan, then
addspoonfulsof themixturetomake
roughly5cmroundfritters.Fryfor3-5
minutesuntilgoldenunderneathandthe
batter looks justsetonthetop, thenflipover
andpressdownwithafishslicetosquash
anybigcauliflowerbits.Cookforanother
3-5minutesuntilgolden, thenkeepwarm
onanoventraywhileyoufrytherest.
Scatterwitha littlemoresalt,andservewith
lemonwedgesandtherelish.
■ PER SERVING 623 kcals, protein 28.3g, carbs
38.2g, fat 39.7g, sat fat 17.1g, fibre 4.2g, salt 1.4g
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Inspired bySHABAB, LEEDSGobi(cauliflower)appearsinvariousguises
onthemenuatShabab.Ourpickisthephool
gobiadrak;cauliflowerfloretswithfreshginger
andcoriander.Thisislight,butrichinflavour
andin-housegrindingofthespicesreallymakes
adifference.Makeitforfriendsforarelaxed
Fridaynightsupper.(shabab.uk.com)
TRY OUR VERSION
Cauliflower andginger curry45 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY
sunflower or vegetable oil 1 tbsp
onion 1, finelychopped
ginger 1 tbspgrated,plus 1heapedtbsp
cut intofinematchsticks
curry leaves 10
lemongrass 1stick,bruisedwitharollingpin
mild curry powder 1 tbsp
black mustard seeds 2tsp
ground coriander 2tsp
ground tumeric 1 tsp
coconut milk 400gcan
cauliflower 1,broken intosmall
floretsandstalkcut intobatons
coriander handfulof leaves, toserve
basmati rice, warm chapatis, yoghurt
or mango chutney toserve
■ Heattheoil inasmallcasseroledishor
fryingpanwitha lid.Addtheonionsand
bothtypesofgingerandfrygentlyuntil
softenedbutnotcoloured.Addthecurry
leaves, lemongrassandspicesandfryfor
acoupleofminutesuntil fragrant.Stir inthe
coconutmilkwithahalfacanofwater, then
coverandsimmerfor20minutes.
■ Uncover,stir inthecauliflowerand
simmer(uncovered) for5-10minutesuntil
thecauliflower is tender.Seasonwell, then
servescatteredwithsomecoriander leaves,
basmati rice,warmedchapatis,yoghurtand
spoonfulsofyourfavouritemangochutney.
■ PER SERVING 279 kcals, protein 7.8g, carbs
11.9g, fat23g,satfat 15.8g, fibre5.4g,salt0.2g
THREE OTHER IDEAS TO TRY
Spiced cauliflower soup■ Serves 4
Simmer1roughlychoppedcauliflower,
1peeledanddicedeatingapple,200gdiced
potatoand2tbspmildcurry powder in
1 litrevegetable stockuntilall theveg is
tender.Blitzuntil super
smoothwithahandblender
–addingasplashmorewaterto
getaniceconsistency, thenseason
andeatwithtoastednaan bread.
Cauliflower carpacciowith lemon dressing■ Serves 2
Slice 1minicaulifloweronamandolin
andtosswithasmallhandfulofroughly
choppedflatparsley.Makeadressingwith
thezest& juiceof 1 lemon,2 tbspolive oil,
1 tspDijon mustard, 1 crushedgarlicclove,
1 tbsprinsedcapersandagoodpinch
ofsugar.Tossthroughthecauliflower.
Quick cauliflower gratin■ Serves 6
Boil 1 large,whole caulifloweruntil just
tender, thensit inasmallbakingdish.Mix
300mlcrème fraîchewith100ggrated
parmesanandseasoningandusetotopthe
cauli, thenscatterwithmoreparmesanand
25gdried breadcrumbs.Drizzlewitholive
oilandgrilluntilgoldenandbubbling.
MAKEAHEAD
eat in/everyday
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or
ehealthyrecipesvisit
lulusnotes.com
✴ SPICED CHICKEN WITHSWEET POTATO WEDGES
✴ PURPLE SPROUTING BROCCOLI WITHPANCETTA AND SOFT-BOILED EGGS
✴ SPINACH AND FETA QUESADILLASWITH TOMATO SALSA
✴ GINGER AND PORK PATTIESWITH NOODLES
SLIMMERDINNERSLow-calorieandlow-fatmealsRecipesANNAGLOVERPhotographsDAVIDMUNNS
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eat in/everyday
86 O MARCH 2014
Ginger and pork patties with noodles30 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY
ginger thumb-sizedpiece,grated
1,beaten
1, seededanddiced
pak choy toserve
■ Mixtheporkmince,half thespring
onions,ginger, 1 tspsoysauceandthe
eggtogether.Formintotwelvesmallpatties
andchill.Cookthenoodlesanddrain.Heat
1 tspofgroundnutoil inafryingpanandfry
eachsideuntilbrownedandcookedthrough.
Heatanothertspoil in thepanandfrythe
remainingspringonionandchilli for 1minute.Addthe
noodles, tossingwith 1 tbspsoysauceandadashofrice
wine.Servewiththepattiesandsteamedpakchoy.
■ PER SERVING 343 kcals, protein 28.7g , carbs 19.7g, fat 16.3g, sat
fat 5.2g, fibre 1.8g, salt 1.3g
Spiced chicken withsweet potato wedges30 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY
garlic powder 1 tsp
cayenne pepper 1 tsp
paprika 1 tsp
ground cumin 1 tsp
olive oil
skinless chicken breasts2
sweet potato 1 large,washed
andcut intowedges
green salad toserve
■ Heattheovento200C/fan
180C/gas6.Mixthegarlic
powderandspiceswith2tsp
oliveoil tomakeapasteand
season.Flattenthechicken
betweensheetsofclingfilmuntil
1cmthickthenrubthepaste intothe
chicken, leavetomarinate.Tossthe
sweetpotatowedges in 1 tbspoliveoil
andseason.Tipontoabakingtrayandcook
for35-40minutesuntil cookedandcrisponthe
outside.Grill thechickenfor4minutesonbothsides
until cookedthrough.Servewithsalad.
■ PER SERVING 287 kcals, protein 31.8g , carbs 16.8g, fat 10.8g,
sat fat 1.7g, fibre 2.6g, salt 0.3g
Spinach and feta quesadillaswith tomato salsa20 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY
vine tomatoes4,seededanddiced
red onion 1/2,diced
red chilli 1, seededanddiced
coriander 1/2 bunch, roughlychopped
red wine vinegar 1 tsp
lime 1/2, juiced
low-fat feta 75g,crumbled
spring onions 2,diced
spinach200g,wiltedand
squeezeddry
flour tortillas4large
■ Mixthetomatoes,onion,
chilliandcoriandertogetherwith
thevinegarandlimejuice.Season
well.Mixtogetherthefeta,spring
onions,spinachandseason.Divide
thefetamixontotwotortillas,and
pressdownanothertortillasonto
each.Dryfryeachquesadillauntilthe
undersideisgolden,thecheeseismelting
andtheonionsaresoft.Flipthetortillasover
andfryontheothersideuntilcookedthrough.
■ PER SERVING 345 kcals, protein 16.8g , carbs
55.2g, fat 6.6g, sat fat 4.3g, fibre 6.3g, salt 1.7g
Purple sprouting broccoli withpancetta and soft-boiled eggs
30 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY
pancetta 70g,diced
purple sprouting broccoli 300g, trimmed
eggs3
balsamic vinegar 1 tsp
parmesanshavingstoserve
crusty bread toserve
■ Frythepancettaona lowheatfor 10
minutesuntil thefathasmeltedandthe
cubesarecrisp.Drainonkitchentowels.
Cookthebroccoli insaltedboilingwater
for4minutesuntil tender, thenplunge
into icedwatertostop itcooking.Cook
theeggs intheboilingwaterfor7
minutes(forsoftboiled)or longer ifyou
like,andcoolundercoldwater.Shelland
halvetheeggs,arrangethebroccolion
twoplateswiththeeggsandpancetta.
Topwithafewparmesanshavings.Serve
withcrustybread.
■ PER SERVING 292 kcals, protein 21.3g , carbs 2g,
fat 22g, sat fat 7.6g, fibre 3.5g, salt 1.6g
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Sausages with sageand butternut
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Quick black bean chilli25 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY
cooking chorizo2largeor4small
sausages, roughlychopped
onion 1, finelychopped
red pepper 1, seededandsliced
chipotle paste 1 tsp(ormore if
it’snotverystrong)
chopped tomatoes400gtin
black beans 1 tinorcarton,drained
lime 1,halved
corianderahandful,chopped
soured cream toserve
rice or tortillas toserve
■ Putthechorizo inacoldpanandbring
slowlytoahighheatsotheoilmeltsoutof
thechorizo.Tip intheonionandpepperand
fryuntil soft.Addthechipotlepasteandfry
foraminutethenaddtomatoesandcook
for5minutesmore.Addtheblackbeansand
asplashofwater ifyouneedtountilyou
haveathicksauce.Heateverythingthrough,
seasonandservewithriceortortillas, the
limesqueezedoverandthecorianderand
souredcreamontop.
■ PER SERVING 493 kcals, protein 30.8g , carbs
33.4g, fat 26.4g, sat fat 10.6g, fibre 10g, salt 2.5g
Chicken paillardwith red peppers30 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY
olive oil
red peppers 2,seededandsliced
garlic 1clove,peeledandthinlysliced
anchovies 2,roughlychopped
flat-leaf parsley asmallbunch,
roughlychopped
lemon 1,halved
skinless chicken breast fillets2
■ Heatalittleoliveoilandfrytheredpeppers
untiltheyaresoftandtoastedattheedges.
Addthegarlicandstir,thenaddtheanchovies
andcookfor5minutesbeforestiringthrough
theparsleyandsqueezingoversomelemon.
Season.Meanwhile,halvethechickenfillets
horizontally,putthembetweensheetsofcling
filmandbashthemoutwitharollingpinuntil
thin.Brushwithoil,seasonwellandthenfry
until justcookedthrough.Squeezeoverthe
remaininglemonandservewiththepeppers.
■ PER SERVING 224 kcals, protein 33g , carbs
10.5g, fat 5.5g, sat fat 1g, fibre 4.5g, salt 0.5g
Singapore crab noodles15 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY
vermicelli noodles70g
oil
turmerica largepinch
spring onions 2, finelysliced
red chilli 1, finelychopped
beansprouts 150g
egg 1
soy sauce toseason
crabmeat 100g
peanuts 1 tbsp, toastedand
choppedtoserve
■ Soakthenoodles,drainandput inabowl.
Heata littleoil inapan,addapinchof
turmericandthespringonionsandfry
brieflybeforeaddingthechilliandbean
sproutsandcookingforafurtherminute.
Tipontothehotnoodles.Beattheegglightly
andtip it intothehotpan.Cookuntil set,
roughupwithaforkandthentipontothe
noodles.Tosstogetherandseasonwithsoy
sauceandpepperthenaddthecrabmeat.
Topwithchoppedpeanutstoserve.
■ PER SERVING 309 kcals, protein 20.4g , carbs
30.5g, fat 11.1g, sat fat 2.1g, fibre 1.7g, salt 1.1g
Very green soup20 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY
onion 1, roughlychopped
spring onions2,roughlychopped
oil
kale 200g,woodystalksremoved
andchopped
rocket70gbag
chicken orvegetable stock600ml
fresh pesto 2tbsp
■ Puttheonionandspringonion ina
saucepanwitha littleoilandfrygentlyuntil
soft.Addthekale, rocketandstockandbring
toasimmer.Cookfor5minutesandthen
whizztoapurée.Seasonwellandstir
throughthepestotoserve.
■ PER SERVING 223 kcals, protein 16.1g , carbs
16.8g, fat 9.7g, sat fat 1.6g, fibre 3.9g, salt 1.3g
Curried cauliflower rice15 minutes ■ Serves 3 ■ EASY
garam masala 1 tbsp
chilli flakesapinch
cauliflower 1,broken intoflorets
oil
onion 1,halvedandsliced
cooked basmati rice250g(useapouch
ofready-cooked ifyou like)
coriander 1handful,chopped
black mustard seeds 1 tsp
turmericapinch
plain yoghurt 3-4tbsp
■ Putthespices inabowlwiththe
cauliflower,aslugofoilandtheonionand
tosstogether.Seasonwell, tip intoafrying
panandputona lid.Fryfor5minutes,
shakingthepaneverynowandthenuntil
thecauliflowerandonionstart tosoftenand
toastattheedges.Takeoff the lidwhenit is
soft todriveoffanysteam.Addthericeand
stiruntilheatedthrough.
■ Heata littlemoreoil inasmallpanand
addthemustardseedsandturmeric.Heat
until theseedspopthentipovertherice,add
spoonfulsofyoghurtandtopwithcoriander.
■ PER SERVING 277 kcals, protein 12.3g , carbs
37.7g, fat 9.1g, sat fat 1.8g, fibre 6.3g, salt 0.3g
88 O MARCH 2014
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eat in/everyday
MARCH 2014 O 89
Very green soup
Chicken paillardwith red peppers
Curriedcauliflower rice
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Superdrug,Holland & Barrett,GNC,chemists,healthstores, supermarkets & www.vitabiotics.comVitamin supplements may benefit those with nutritionally inadequate diets.*(IRI value data.52 w/e 13 Jul,13).
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eatoutaway
RestaurateurRussell Normanat The RedLion, Kent(page 97)
Pro vs punter at The Magazine ✴ ‘Dinner-jumping’ in the Black Forest
✴ 11 great pubs around the UK ✴Where to eat bun bo in Vietnam ✴Rome’s best trattoria
&
Eating out is one of life’s great pleasures – when youget it right! We’re here to make sure you find thebest in the UK and abroad. For this pub-inspired
issue, top chefs and restaurateurs tell us about theirfavourite watering holes from Padstow to Leith, and
we’ve found four pubs where you can stay thenight, too (with a couple of special offers just forO readers). Our star travel writer, Marina
O’Loughlin, hunts out the Black Forest’s food hotspots, plus, don’t go to Rome without our local food
expert’s weekend guide.
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The Magazine is an ultra-modern addition to theSerpentine Gallery in London’s Kensington Gardens.With its bold sci-fi front, the restaurant stands outfrom the gallery’s traditional red brick façade.Thebuilding was designed by award-winning architectZaha Hadid and it’s a sleek space, in greys and whiteswith splashes of lime green. Berlin-born chef OliverLange has a love of Japanese food (even being knownby the nickname ‘Olly-san’) and his modernEuropean menu is Asian influenced. À la carte,starters range from sushi to grills such as robata lambtartar with aubergine and cornbread, while maincourses include Dingley Dell pork, carrots and plum.There is also a good-value set lunch menu with twocourses for £20 and three for £25.■ Serpentine Sackler Gallery,Kensington Gardens,London,W2 (020 7298 7552;magazine-restaurant.co.uk)
SRA RATING 7/10The Magazine achieved its bestsustainability rating for meat-sourcing,as much of the produce is organic andlocal.The lowest score was for fishsourcing, and the SRA would recommendimplementing a sustainable supplier agreement.The restaurant should look to assess its fish againstthe criteria set out by the Marine ConservationSociety as the menu includes seafood and sashimi.The Magazine caters well for vegetarians and iscommunicates its sustainable, ethical stance well.It’s fortunate to be in a building created withenvironmental forethought, and the SRA commendsit for separating and recycling its food waste.
There was nothing appallinglywrong with the food, no leatherypieces of steak, or rancid scrapsof fish, but it was distinctlyunmemorable and seeminglyunable to decide whether it wasAsian or European. Now there’snothing wrong with attemptingto do both but here pretty muchevery dish underwhelmed. Sushiwas notable only for the blob offresh wasabi, grated at the table,which cost a whopping £4. Greatto see a real wasabi root, but whygo to all that trouble when theactual sushi is merely a notchabove average?
Thai beef salad, £15, was packedwith wonderful slices of rare,properly bosky beef and had decentchilli heat.While yuzu juice is aninteresting addition to this Siameseclassic, it’s used with an over-heavy
Zingy elderberry sour cocktailswere the perfect accompanimentto a spot of people watching.At£10, they’re pricey, but a must.I started with delicious seafoodsushi, £12.The portion was on thelarge side but I was happy. Freshwasabi was grated at the table andwas far superior to any paste. Myhusband ordered the lamb tartarbut was served the baby beetsinstead and at an overpriced£11, he felt it was style oversubstance.The fillet of beef, £39,was exquisitely tender but lackedflavour and was completelyoverpowered by the yakiniku saucewhich was very salty and spoiledthe taste of the whole dish.A mainof cod was well cooked, flavourfuland looked beautiful, although itlacked texture. Because the maincourses arrived very swiftly after thestarters, we both felt like we had
With the exception ofa wonderful sommelier,service was sweet butrather vague.Wine listswere promised butnever materialized,with wine glasses leftmournfully unfilled.Despite the restaurantbeing fairly empty ona weekday lunch time,trying to catch theattention of the staffcould be testing. Itwasn’t that the frontof house was actuallybad, just a touchamateur.Tap waterwasn’t offered andI wasn’t recognised.
As we excitedly enteredthe grounds of thegallery, the modernglass restauranttwinkled withcandlelight.TheMagazine has a cool,space-age feel and wewere welcomed intoits cavernous butintimate space byfriendly staff. Our tablefor two was next to thepass, but sadly, thesleek white wall thatwrapped around thekitchen was too highfor us to be able tosee the theatre of thecooking.Tap waterwas provided.
Tom Parker Bowles
is aTV presenter,food writer andrestaurant critic. Hehas written four booksabout food, the mostrecent of which isLet’s Eat:Recipes frommy kitchen notebook(Pavilion, £25),on sale now.
Doesanaveragedinerreachthesameconclusionsaboutrestaurantsasafoodpro,whomaygetspecial treatment ifrecognised?*TomParkerBowlesandO readerAnnaInmancomparenotesonTheMagazine
Anna Inman is apre-sales bid directorfrom Hertfordshire.Her favourite typesof food are modernBritish and French.Her best eating outexperience was atGordon Ramsay’sHospital Road andher guilty pleasureis Cadbury’schocolate fingers.
THE PUNTER
Want to review arestaurant? For a chanceto beO’s next punter,join our reader panel atimmediateinsiders.com
92 O MARCH 2014
provspunterTHE FOODSERVICETHE PRO
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FOOD 6/10ATMOSPHERE 7/10SERVICE 6/10
TOM’S TOTAL 19/30
The design, cool vibe,fantastic cocktails, winelist and service werehighlights.The music,provided by twobored looking DJs,was annoying andthe over seasonedfood let TheMagazine down.Anna’s bill for
two includingservice cameto £120.66
The room is magnificentand you can gaze out atthe distant form of the
food simply doesn’t liveup to its surroundings.Ingredients are topnotch but, in prettymuch everydish, they’resmothered
bullying flavours.There’stalent here,but at the moment, there’slittle reason to return.Tom’s bill for two including 12.5%service was £171.
hand and dominates pretty muchevery other flavour.The same istrue of the hamachi sashimi, £14.The fish is beautifully fresh(although hardly a sashimi cut),but any delicacy is drowned byan aggressively sharp sauce.
Pork donburi, £20, was easily thebest dish, the meat soft and rich,and rice wallowing in a deeplyflavoured broth.An oozing eggadds its considerable charms, whilepickles supplied a nicely acidic kick.It could hold its head up high ineven the most traditional ofJapanese restaurants. It’s a shamethat everything was not this assured.
A great hunk of cod, £20, waswell cooked too, but the sauce wascloyingly creamy.And dull. Onemouthful was enough – little morethan an edible shrug.
indigestion. Desserts arrived threeminutes after ordering. I opted forthe chocolate surprise, £9.Thesurprise was an unnecessaryaddition of salt to an otherwiseperfectly fluffy mousse and caramelsauce. (It was later removed fromthe bill, along with two coffees, afterI mentioned the salt). My husband’sapple with oak smoked ice cream,£8, looked great, but he dived inonly to find that a simple applecrumble would have been better.If we had not had an espresso, wewould have finished our meal in justover an hour; it felt very rushed.However, I imagine the speed ofservice would be appreciated bylunch-time diners.
FOOD 5/10ATMOSPHERE 8/10SERVICE 8/10
ANNA’S TOTAL21/30
THE GINGER PIG, SUSSEX‘The Ginger Pig used to be a rundown boozernearmyparents’
house inHoveanditwasexcitingwatching itchangeintoan
informalandrelaxedgastropub.
‘The quality of the food and service puts it at the top of my
list.Beef, lambandporkareall locallysourcedandtheyserve
Harvey’sofLewesbeer. It’s reallyreasonablypricedandalsowell
positionedforabracingwalkalongtheseafrontafter lunch.
‘I’ll normally order the fishcake made almost entirely of
peeled brown shrimps –delicious! If it’snotonthemenuI’ll
goforthe35-day-dry-agedribeye,£19.50,withchipscooked
indripping,orgamepie,£14.50,withgreatpastryandaromatic
spicedredcabbage.There’salsoaverygoodchocolatetart,
£7,andanexcellentcrèmebrûlée.
‘When we asked if we if we could bring our cocker spaniel
puppy, it wasn’t a problem – it’salwayshandytoknowif
restaurantsallowdogs,especiallyas I tendtovisitwithmyfamily
andparents.
‘My average spend? Around£40to£45perperson.’
(thegingerpigpub.co.uk)
TOP TABLES OUTSIDETHE CAPITALMatthew Harris is thechef
directorof iconicChelsea
restaurantBibendum(bibendum.
co.uk).ThemenuisclassicFrench,
usingfirst-classseasonal
ingredients.Downstairs there’san
oysterbarandarelaxedcafe,
servingbreakfastand lunch.
TOTALSCORE40/60
anywherebut London
THE BOTTOM LINE
MARCH 2014 O 93
eat out/review
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NATHAN OUTLAW OFRESTAURANT NATHAN OUTLAWTHE SAFE HARBOUR,FOWEY(safe-harbour-inn.co.uk)Once a Fowey local himself, NathanOutlaw (nathan-outlaw.com) was awareofThe Safe Harbour, but first visited thepub when it was taken over by hismother-in-law.Although, he is eager topoint out; ‘It’s a good pub. I’d still go,even if we weren’t related’.
He describes the interior as‘comfortable, cosy and unpretentious,’but the real highlight at this 19th centurycoaching inn is that it sits at the top ofa hill, with views over the town.
‘Graham Allen is the chef. His styleis traditional, as it should be. He servesgood, honest plates of food – dishes thatare everyone’s favourites. I usually go forwhatever the homemade pie of the dayis, with a pint of St.Austell Brewery’sTribute beer.’
What sets it apart, says Nathan, is thatthere are no gimmicks. ‘It’s a true localand offers a haven where you can go andhave a quiet pint and a decent meal. It hasalso won awards for its cask beer and youcan play darts!’
SHOULD PUBS…Welcome children YES (during the day)
Allow dogs YES
Serve cocktails NO
Show sports on TV YES (but not so that
everyone has to watch)
Have live music YES (as long as it’s good)
TIM ALLEN OFLAUNCESTON PLACETHE BUILDER’S ARMS,KENSINGTON(thebuildersarmskensington.co.uk)Being able to nip out for a pint after workjust down the road is a ‘big help’ saysTimAllen, head chef at Michelin-starredLaunceston Place (launcestonplace-restaurant.co.uk).Yorkshire-bornTimhas worked at some very prestigiousrestaurants includingWhatley Manor andThe Landmark, so it’s not surprising thathis favourite pub,The Builder’s, is smarterthan your average local. ‘It’s a Georgianbuilding that looks both grand and friendly,the interior is mainly wooden,with bigbenches as well as cosy leather chairs.’
Inside there’s a mix of open plan spacesand more private areas, and it also featuressome quirky design touches, most notablythe tiled palm trees behind the bar.
‘It’s a pub to socialise in and enjoya good beer’ saysTim. ‘They have greatguest beers; typically I’ll go for a SierraNevada or India Pale Ale.They also doa good burger.’ Trealy Farm charcuterie,cider and tarragon-battered cod and BlackForest kirsch trifle are highlights, as is thetraditional Sunday roast.
While the pub welcomes everyone,Timdoesn’t recommend taking the family ona Friday night, although landlord Rob ispretty tolerant. ‘I recently met up withsome friends I’ve not seen for 15 years.They haven’t changed and made completefools of themselves, but Rob is cool, he’sseen it all!’
SHOULD PUBS…Welcome children YES
Allow dogs YES
Serve cocktails YES
Show sports on TV YES
Have live music YES/NO (I love live music,
but it really depends on the pub)
94 O MARCH 2014
Aftera longshift inthekitchen,oronararedayoff, thesechefsandrestaurateursheadtothepub.Weaskthemtogetthedrinks inWordsDANIELLETHEUNISSEN PortraitsDAVIDCOTSWORTH
T me barattheO
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Tim Allen and landlord Rob
Powell at The Builder’s Arms
eat out/restaurant spy
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NEIL FORBES OFCAFÉ ST HONORÉTHE KING’S WARK,LEITH(thekingswark.com)Café St Honoré (cafesthonore.com) isa romantic Parisian restaurant in the heartof Edinburgh, but head chef Neil Forbesstumbled across his now favourite pub‘Around 20 years ago, while I was stillworking onThe Royal Scotsman train.The King’sWark was around the cornerfrom the train station office.’ Its appealwas strengthened by the fact that ithappens to be within walking distancefrom Neil’s house.
The 15th century pub does a ‘legendarySunday brunch’, which is just one of themany reasons why Neil loves it. ‘There’san open fire, characterful rickety oldchairs, a great selection of Scottish beers,and the crispiest fish and chips. Oh, andthey have candles in wine bottles, I likethose, too.’
‘Since I live in Edinburgh, I have toorder a Deuchars IPA.A simple, elegantand hoppy delight in a glass.To go withit, I will normally have a devilishly goodbowl of steaming mussels with chips.’ Butif you want something a little more filling,you can always go for an Aberdeen Angusrib-eye steak.
It’s a proper Scottish pub, so much so,says Neil, that it’s the one place he ‘alwaystakes family and friends to show them thereal Leith.’
SHOULD PUBS…Welcome children YES
Allow dogs NO
Serve cocktails YES
Show sports on TV NO
Have live music YES (but not too loud)
GARETH JONES OFMR COOPER’S HOUSE & GARDENTHE OLD HARKERSARMS, CHESTER(brunningandprice.co.uk/harkers)According to Gareth Jones,The OldHarkers Arms has the whole package.‘A relaxed atmosphere, great food andbrilliant location. It’s exactly what I thinka pub should be, with perfectly-pulledchilled lager and brilliant pies.’
Gareth is the head chef at SimonRogan’s Mr Cooper’s House & Garden(mrcoopershouseandgarden.co.uk) inThe Midland Hotel in Manchester. It’sa beautiful restaurant split into the plush‘house’ room and calming ‘garden’ (alsoindoors), dotted here and there withfoliage, includinga central tree feature.The Old HarkersArms, though, is where he goes to relax.‘It’s located in an old warehouse,canal-side in Chester. In the summer, it’sgreat to sit outside and watch the boatspass by and in the winter it’s lovely andcosy inside.’
While his own menu is quite bold, whenhe heads to the pub, Gareth goes formore classic dishes. ‘Jeremy Houlbrookis the head chef and his food is traditionalEnglish pub grub, with a few internationaldishes on the menu, too. I usually havethe pie of the day or fish and chips –without the mushy peas though!’ For lesstraditional pub food, go for a pulled porksalad, £11.95, with red cabbage ’slaw,avocado and crispy tortilla or forsomething lighter, the crab linguine, £9.75.
SHOULD PUBS…Welcome children NO
Allow dogs YES
Serve cocktails NO
Show sports on TV NO
Have live music DON’T MIND
96 O MARCH 2014WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
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Gareth Jones at
The Old Harkers Arms
eat out/restaurant spy
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Smoked haddock fishcake
at The Jolly Sailor
RUSSELL NORMAN OFTHE APE & BIRDTHE RED LION,STODMARSH(theredlionstodmarsh.com)Towards the end of 2013, restaurateurRussell Norman (the man behind Polpoand Spuntino) opened his first pub,TheApe and Bird (apeandbird.com), in theWest End. His take on a pub mixes thetraditional (green leather banquettes) withthe new (industrial lighting and craft beer).The same could be said of the menu,where classics such as sausage and mash sithappily alongside truffled cheesy fries anda wild mushroom and chestnut cottage pie.You can also expect to find a goodselection of desserts, includingbannofeebocker glory or sticky datepudding with ice cream (both £7). On arare day off, you’ll find Russell atThe RedLion in Stodmarsh, the appeal of which isobvious; ‘it’s a beautiful and traditionalwhite clapboard and red brick building,inside there are beams, timber floors andwhite wattle and daub.There’s also big firein winter, cosy tables and some of thedoors have a pulley system that usestrumpets as weights.’ The menu is easyto pick from, with its traditional pastrypies and sandwiches or more excitingoptions of roast venison loin andslow-roasted pork belly.
Stodmarsh is on the StourValleyWalkin Kent and part of the draw, says Russell,is that it’s not very big; ‘as well as the pub,the village has cows, some very ugly geese,a few houses and a church – that’s about it.’
Along with ‘really solid cooking’ and‘proper beer’, this countryside pub is alsodog friendly. ‘The first time we took ourdog, Monkey, she went mental at thesmell of all the good food. I had to wrapher in my coat and appease her with theoccasional potato.’
SHOULD PUBS…Welcome children YES (during the day)
Allow dogs YES
Serve cocktails DON’T MIND
Show sports on TV NO, NO, NO!
Have live music OCCASIONALLY
CHRIS GOLDINGOF APEROTHE JOLLY SAILOR,ORFORD(jollysailororford.co.uk)Apero (aperorestaurantandbar.com) isa chic bar and restaurant in London’sTheAmpersand Hotel and head chef ChrisGolding creates imaginative,unpretentious food that makes the mostof British seasonal produce.This alsoseems to be the ethos at his favourite pub,The Jolly Sailor, where ‘the menu issimple and uses seasonal, local produce,fish is caught locally and meat is fromnearby farms.Aspall cider is brewed justthree miles down the road.’The variedmenu covers everything from starters andsnacks to salads, platters and mains andtraditional pub food sits alongside moreinteresting dishes, suchas wholeshell mussels.
It’s somewhere he’s been going to fora number of years. ‘My nan and grandadused to take me there as a kid. It’s actuallyaround 200 years old, has a thatched roofand the great thing about it is that it hasn’tchanged in years.There are noTVs ormusic, just nice food and drink withpeople sitting around talking.’
‘I remember visiting with my three sisterswhen we were kids, sitting around a bigwooden table eating pork scratchings andlistening to my grandad’s bad jokes.’
The pub seems as friendly andwelcoming as the name suggests, andcaters for everyone. ‘It’s a great mix ofpeople, families on holiday, locals, youngand old,’ says Chris, and has that keyingredient of every good local; ‘thelandlord is very friendly.’
SHOULD PUBS…Welcome children YES
Allow dogs YES
Serve cocktails NO
Show sports on TV NO
Have live music NO
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Russell Norman at
The Red Lion
eat out/restaurant spy
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eat out/restaurant spy
100 O MARCH 2014
MARK SARGEANT OFPLUM + SPILT MILKTHE FIVE BELLS,BRABOURNE(fivebellsinnbrabourne.com)‘The Five Bells in Brabourne, Kent,is an absolute gem of a pub in the mostquintessentially Kentish village you canimagine,’ says Mark. ‘With rolling rapefields and thatched cottages, it’s anabsolutely beautiful place.’
As chef director of Plum + Spilt Millk(plumandspiltmilk.com), Mark Sargeantoversees a menu that brings beautifulBritish ingredients to the fore, and thatpartially explains his love of this pub.‘Everything is local, including the ales.They do classic pub food, black pudding,scotch eggs, roast dinners and beautifulfish. I usually have the gamekeeper’slunch of game pie, pork sausage, crustycob, celery, and local pickles.To wash it alldown, a pint of one of the local ales thatare on.’
Mark foundThe Five Bells throughfriends who live down the road, and whileit’s a traditional-looking pub on the
outside, it’s anything but on the inside.‘Owned by an interior designer, the pubhas a stunning atmosphere. It’s only veryslightly modern, but it keeps all thecharacter of a classic pub with open firesand brass tables.There’s even an oldbutcher’s block in use as a table, and theyhave a small deli inside, too.’
SHOULD PUBS…Welcome children YES
Allow dogs NO
Serve cocktails YES
Show sports on TV NO
Have live music YES
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ROSE & CROWNThis buzzing pub set onWarwick’s MarketPlace has 13 en-suite rooms; five upstairs andeight newly opened in an adjacent 17thcentury house. Roll top baths and a palate ofcool greens and greys make these a classy act.The menu is equally confident, withchef Rob Hartwell making the most ofseasonal produce. Isle of Man scallopson a celeriac salad were rich withcrumbles of black pudding (£8.50)and their game terrine with duckcrackling salad was hearty (£7). Steaksfrom award-winning butcher,AubreyAllen are recommended, as are dailyspecials such as confit of lamb bellywith dauphinoise (£15.50) – perfectwith a smooth primitivo.STAY THERE Double rooms from£85 including breakfast.(roseandcrownwarwick.co.uk)
THE EBRINGTON ARMSThis multiple CAMRA-award-winning pubis set deep in the folds of the NorthCotswolds. Dating from the early 17th
century, you’d forgive this real-ale inn if itfavoured the traditional, so thecontemporary feel inside the old Cotswoldstone walls is a pleasant surprise.There areoak floors and muted tones in thecomfortable rooms – but this is high quality,hand-wrought modern rather than stuffilytraditional.The decanter of sherry providedon arrival is a lovely touch too.The bluecheese soufflé (£6) and foie gras parfait (£6)are delicious, while megrim sole (£16) andonglet steak (£18) are excellent mains – thechocolate and almond brownie (£6) finishedoff the meal with a salty-sweet fog.STAY THERE Double rooms from £150,including breakfast (theebringtonarms.co.uk).
THE WHITE HEARTA recent renovation allows this 16th
century inn’s quirks to shine through buteclectic, carefully sourced décor like thefour-poster beds and antique furnituregives this pub a on-trend feel. In winter,tuck yourself away at a table next to thefire; the pub’s courtyard is a great spaceto linger over an aperitif in warmer weather.The menu draws from Somerset’s bestsuppliers but has a distinctly Mediterraneanfeel.A meat-sharing board to start includeswafer-thin duck ham and cheese and baconcroquettes (£12.50). Mains featureWedmore lamb, Cornish hake andGloucester Old Spot.A stunning specialof pan-fried pork chop with orange, thymeand roasted potatoes (£16) is not to bemissed if it is available.STAY THERE Double rooms from £85(whitehartsomerton.com).
WILD RABBITStripped wood, muted colours andimmaculately dressed, clued-up staff make thisrefurbished Gloucestershire pub far from yourtypical country boozer. Showcasing localproduce, the bar stocks Cotswold gin andvodka as well as Cotswold Brewery beers.Thedining room has an open kitchen with Jospergrill as well as a charcuterie station and themenu features modern pub classics such asGloucester Old Spot with toffee apple puréefor two (£40) and steaks with hand-cut chips(from £18.50). Bedrooms feature plenty ofquirky bedside reading (NationalTrust guideand cookbooks), Bamford toiletries, robes and
crisp bedlinen. Perfection.STAY THERE A smalldouble starts from £95per night. Dogs welcomeat an additional cost.(thewildrabbit.co.uk)
BitesizeBREAKS
Hot pubs withcool rooms*see page 116 for offer details
MARCH 2014 O 101
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Postcardfromthe
I’ve often suspected that there areparts of the world situated on thefood equivalent of ley-lines.Theyattract more than their fair share
of amazing culinary experiences: I’mthinking Ludlow, Lyon and San Sebastián.
The tiny town of Baiersbronn must beon a particularly active one as it boasts anastonishing seven Michelin stars.We’resitting in the marvellously upholsteredBareiss restaurant (bareiss.com) in thehotel of the same name – an absolutetemple to comfort and what Germanscall ‘gemütlichkeit’: a delicious, rosy glowof wellbeing.
Germany has ten restaurants with threeMichelin stars; the UK has four, adisparity I was hoping to write off as theinevitable result of both Michelin andGermany’s predilection for formality andsoft furnishings. But there’s no doubt chefClaus-Peter Lumpp’s food deserves itsplace in the superstar pantheon. It is adazzling marriage of technique, gloriouslocal produce and luxury: cloud-softcaramelised sweetbreads on a white beanpurée scented with balsamic and vanilla;sole poached in olive oil till it’s the texture
of fondant;crisp sea basson a risottoof nuts witha vivid cidersauce.Thecloseness toStrasbourgmeans there’s
plenty of foie gras and the array of tinypuddings, seemingly a thousand intricateplays on chocolate, leaves us dazzled.And
that’s before the matching wines.All I can say is, rather drunkenly, ‘I loveGerman wine’.
Before we’ve even got to this, we’ve hadafternoon tea at HotelTraubeTonback(traube-tonbach.de) just up the road,another spa hotel that’s every bit asimposing, every bit as dedicated tocomfort and luxury as Bareiss. Cakescome from the kitchen of another tripleMichelin’ed restaurant, courtesy of chef,HaraldWohlfahrt: exquisite creations thatlook like woodland scenes with ‘pebbles’made from sugared nuts, liquid trufflecake lollipops, blackberry and almondslices. Our tea sommelier (oh yes) hascreated a blend to celebrate the famousSchwarzwalde kirschtorte, subtle notesof black cherry and chocolate. Of course:it’s Black Forest gateau.
So then we have to have the real thing.At the Café am Eck (cafe-am-eck.de),owner Georg Klumpp talks us throughthis iconic cake: blowsy, chocolateysponge; cream stiffened with sweet rouxso it keeps its shape; the cherries, sharp,not sugary; shavings of fine darkchocolate; improbable quantities of kirsch.It may be a cliché, but that’s because donewell, as it is here, it’s also a classic.
How on earth to blow away thosefood-induced cobwebs? How abouttaking off into the beautiful countryside…by Segway – a most unusual way tosightsee.We’re devastated to find out thatthe rain isn’t allowing us to sally forth,so instead we have ‘Swabian tapas’ inSegway boss Eric’s eccentric and lovelywhite pine Sankenbach SchwarzwaldidylleLodge (schwarzwaldidylle.de). Delicate
they ain’t: pungent sausages, vinegarypickles, black pudding, treacly sourdoughspread with bacon-studded lard. Oh, andbeer. Black Forest beer is making me veryhappy indeed: hoppy and fragrant.
In search of more, we traipse up abovethe deep, dark forest where the capercaillie(huge woodland grouse) roam, toGlasmännlehütte (glasmaennlehuette.de),an extraordinary joint – as if you’d beenwhisked into a Grimm fairytale.Asprawling gingerbread house, perhaps,offering rustic food, their own-brewedbeers and a view to knock socks off.
Less chi-chi than Baiersbronn andas cute as a snow globe scene, isSasbachwalden.This is Germany’s fruitgarden, alive with vines and cherry trees,and home to the famous Alde Gottwinery where we enjoy a riotous tasting– I particularly love their sekt: friskyGerman ‘champagne’. Our new friend,Alexander, takes us on a tour of thesurroundings, to vast wine barrels usedas a unique b&b; how gorgeous to wakeup in the middle of this magical, vine-cladcountryside.To hiking trails, punctuatedby little honesty bars at natural wells,where you can help yourself to schnapps– cherry? Artichoke? Fortification for thewalk ahead - how civilised.And then inthe evening, to a remarkableSasbachwalden pleasure: ‘dinner-jumping’ (dinner-jumping.de); fourdifferent courses enjoyed in four verydifferent restaurants.
There’s caraway-spiked onion tart andyoung, first-press wine at wood-panelledbourgeois hotel Engel; fish plates at ZumFässlewirt, where the décor seems to havebeen designed by a heavy-metal-lovingtroll; vast platters of smoky, velvety BlackForest ham and cheese-ladenFlammenkuchen at locals’ favouriteSaschwaller Burehus Holzwurm; andintricate desserts at Michelin-starredHotelTalmühle.What a trip.
It’s an inescapable fact that the seriouscooking comes out of hotels: there’s moreMichelin-starred indulgence atRestaurant Hotel Sackmann (hotel-sackmann.de).And kitsch? I reckon it wasinvented here.They don’t shy away froma server in full, elaborate national dresswithout a trace of irony.Who needsminimalism anyway?
‘Kitsch? I reckon it wasinvented here.They don’t shyaway from a server in full,elaborate national dress’
MARINA
O’LOUGHLIN
is The Guardian
Weekend’s
incognito
restaurant critic.
She flew with
German Wings;
return flights from
London Heathrow
to Stuttgart
from ¤99.98
(germanwings.com)
and stayed at
Bareiss Hotel;
double rooms from
£141 per night
(bariess.com).
Find more
information
at baden-
wuerttemberg.de
Black Forest
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Getbeyondthegâteau:MarinaO’Loughlinsniffsoutthebestfoodhotspotsinoneoftheworld’sgreatestculinarydestinations,uncoveringeverythingfrom‘dinner-jumping’tolocalfavouritesWordsMARINAO’LOUGHLIN PhotographsDAVIDTHOMAS
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eat away/black forest
MARCH 2014 O 103
Flammkuchen40 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY
Flammkuchenor ‘flamecake’ isakindof
bakedflatbreadtoppedwith lardons,onions
andcrèmefraiche(verysimilartotheAlsatian
tarteflambée).This isO’sversion.
strong bread flour 300g
fast action yeast 1 tsp
salt 1 tsp
olive oil 1 tbsp
smoked streaky bacon 150g,
cut intomatchsticks
butter
crème fraîche 4tbsp
nutmeg
onion 1 large,halvedandsliced
gruyere50g, finelygrated
■ Puttheflour inabowlwiththeyeastand
salt.Mixtheoliveoilwith200mlwarmwater.
Mixtoasoftdoughthentipontoafloured
surfaceandkneadfor5minutesuntil
smoothandelastic.Coverwithclingfilmand
leaveuntilyouhavemadethetoppings.
■ Heatanon-stickfryingpanandaddthe
baconandaknobofbutter.Fryfor5minutes
thenscoopoutandaddtheonions.Cook
until softandgolden.
■ Heattheovento230C/fan210C/gas8.
Dividethedoughinto2thenrolleachto
averythinovalandputeachonafloured
bakingtray.
■ Spreadeachbasewiththecrèmefraiche,
seasonwithsaltandagratingofnutmeg
thenscatteroverbacon,onionandcheese.
Bake intheovenforabout 15-20minutesor
untilbase is lightgoldenandcookedthrough.
Cookseparatelysoeachflammkuckengets
thefullamountofheat.Eathot.
■ PER SERVING 533 Kcal, 19.7g protein, 55.8g
carbs, 24g fat, 11g sat fat, 2.5g fibre, 2.7g salt
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/FX DVMJOBSZ IPMJEBZT n XJUI UIF FYQFSUT
MasterChef Travel is an inspiring new collection of culinary holidays, revealing the
wonders of the world’s great food destinations in the company of experts and like-
minded travellers. Including time with local culinary experts who share their passion
for cooking and who pass on an authentic understanding of regional cuisine, there is
also plenty of time for exploring many of the countries’ most captivating sights.
A number of tours feature MasterChef personalities, with trips in 2014 accompanied
by former MasterChef contestants.
The inaugural MasterChef Travel tour, departing on 25th March 2014, visits
Marrakech in Morocco. Featuring MasterChef: The Professionals 2012 joint Winner
,FSJ .PTT, the 5-day trip is priced from POMZ b� ��� per person.
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"OESFX A,PK� ,PKJNB - Thailand
"TI.BJS - Spain
%ISVW #BLFS - India & Mexico
+BNFT /BUIBO - Vietnam
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-BSLJO $FO - China
4BSB %BOFTJO .FEJP - Italy
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Craftbeer,whimsicalgelatoflavoursandtwistsonRomanclassicsareafewofthetrendsluringustoItaly’scapitalthisspringWordsKATIEPARLA MapPATRICKO’LEARY
reasons to visit15Rome
WEEKENDER
1At DalVerme (Via Luchino DalVerme 8, dalverme8.tumblr.com),a dimly-lit watering hole in Pigneto,
bartenders craft cocktails to eachcustomer’s palate.Try an Americanclassic like a sazerac or old-fashioned, orlet the bartender tweak iconic Europeancocktails to your taste (from €5).
2Andrea De Bellis, who openedhis eponymous pastry shop nearCampo de’ Fiori (Piazza del
Paradiso 56, pasticceriadebellis.com)in March, takes Roman dessert traditionsto the next level with his creativeconcoctions. Employing the highestquality ingredients, his signature friedcroissants and made-to-order millefoglie,are decadent, flaky homages to Frenchtradition (from €2).
3Swirl and sniff your way to Italianwine expertise with Vino Roma (Viain Selci 84G, vinoroma.com).At
this wine tasting studio in the Monti,trained sommeliers teach the basics ofdrinking and enjoying vino. Focus on
KatieParla is
a food historian,food critic, craftbeer expert andauthor of thebest-selling mobileapp Katie Parla’sRome, a curatedguide to the city’sbest drinkingand diningdestinations.❶ Please refer tomap on next page
regional specialities at ‘My Italians’tastings or toast to the weekend with‘Sparkling Saturdays’.Tastings from€42 per person.
4When in Rome, cook as theRomans do with Daniela del Balzo
(danielascookingschool.com).Her cooking classes begin in the NewTestaccio Market to buy fresh ingredientsfor the day’s lesson before retreating toher stunning apartment near the CircusMaximus where she teaches her tricks ofthe trade. Classes from €150 per person.
5Get a taste for Italy’s buddingItalian craft beer traditions atBirra+ in Pigneto (Via del
Pigneto 105, birrapiu.it). A rotatingselection of eight domestic and foreigndraughts entices casual drinkers (from€3.50), while connoisseurs come forrare bottles.Whiskey drinkers flockhere for the ever-growing list ofartisanal malts.
6 Rome may not be renownedfor its international cuisine,but Ethiopian restaurant,
Mesob (Via Prenestina 118, mesob.it),is the reason it definitely should be.Chef KukiTadese’s doro wot (a spicedchicken stew) and braised collard greenswill make you forget all about spaghettialla carbonara. Her soulful dishes areserved on delicious home-madegluten-free injera bread. Full mealsfrom only €8.50.
7At Michelin-starred Metamorfosiin Parioli (Via Giovanni Antonelli30, metamorfosiroma.it), chefs
Roy Caceres and John Regefalk blendtheir international culinary influences fora well-heeled crowd. For a thoroughsampling of their creative cuisine, orderthe Assaporando menu, which featuressignature dishes such as deconstructedcarbonara or a lacquered eel, glazed witha Japanese-style glaze, soy sauce, mirin,sake, sugar and eel bones.Tasting menusfrom €60.
Clockwise from
top: Colosseum;
gelato at Gelateria
Fatamorgana; mont
blanc de foie gras
at Metamorfosi;
Daniela’s Cooking
School
MARCH 2014 O 105
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8Sergio Esposito’s stall, Mordi e
Vai in the NewTestaccio Market(Via AlessandroVolta Box 15,
mordievai.it) serves a limited butsatisfying selection of Roman classicsto take away or eat on the fly.Try thepanino alla picchiapo (€3), a sandwichfilled with braised beef made usingEsposito’s family recipe.
9A 30-minute ride from centralRome to the end of the #8tramline delivers you to the city’s
best trattoria, Cesare al Casaletto (Via delCasaletto 45, 0039 06 536015).Themenu blends creative starters like friedgnocchi on a bed of pecorino romanoand black pepper sauce, a twist on theclassic pasta dish cacio e pepe, withmore straightforward mains, suchas stewed tripe and braised oxtail.Theoutstanding wine list focuses ontraditional wines. Meals from €30.
10Aromaticus (Via Urbana134, aromaticus.it), agardening shop in the Monti
district serves light and flavourful salads(from €7) made from aromatic herbs andseasonal produce.
11Just north of theVatican,Siascia Caffè (Via FabioMassimo 80A, sciascia1919.
com) has been in business for nearlya century, serving intense but balancedespresso and other strong coffee(from €1) to a loyal clientele. In thesummertime, ask for a granita di caffe,a slushy coffee-flavored drink servedwith whipped cream. Coffee from €1.
12The best pizzeria in Rome?Sforno (Via Statilio Ottato,110-116, sforno.it), which
rejects the thin-crust, local style andembraces the thick-rimmed Neapolitantradition (from €15). Start with supplì(deep fried rice balls), then pair yourpizza with a craft beer.
13Bustling wine bar, Enoteca
Trucchi (Via Cavour 198,enotecatrucchi.it) recently
added a tasting space next door whereyou can order wines by the glass.Themostly-Italian wine list is a who’s who ofthe country’s great female wine makers.Bottles from €15.
14The ruins of this abandonedslaughterhouse weretransformed into organic
market and coffee shop, Città dell’Altra
Economia (Largo Dino Frisullo,cittadellaltraeconomia.org), which also
hosts a farmers’ market among the oldcorrals on Sundays.
15Artisan gelato maker, MariaAgnese Spagnuolo, has aflare for creative flavour
combinations.At each of her citywideGelateria Fatamorgana outlets, look for
HOW TODO ITGET THERE flyfrom LondonGatwick to RomeFiumicino for(£59 return)(easyjet.com).
STAY THERE
Check into the
centrally-located
and well-appointed
rooms at the Hotel
Ponte Sisto
(hotelpontesisto.it)
from €205 b&b,
or try the more
intimate
accommodation
at Hotel Campo
De’Fiori
�KRWHOFDPSRGH¿RUL�
com), a boutique
hotel near the
market of the same
name, with doubles
from €242 b&b.
ON A BUDGET?
Book a room atThe Beehive(the-beehive.com), within easystriking distanceof the city’s mainsites. Rooms from€70, dorm bedsfrom €25.
*price includesreturn flights andhalf share of thelowest rate doubleroom listed above,for two nights.
£118*PER PERSON
Clockwise from
top left: pizza at
Sforno; fish from
the New Testaccio
Market; St Peter’s
Basilica and the
city skyline
flavours like wasabi-grapefruit and,among the dozen dark chocolate flavours,Kentucky, made with unsmoked tobacco.Cups from €2. (gelateriafatamorgana.it)
For more information on Rome’s tourist
sights and restaurants, visit 060608.it
106 O MARCH 2014
eat away/city break
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eat away/vietnamP
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MARCH 2014 O 107
✴The flavours at Bun Bo Nam Bo (67 Hang Dieu Street,opposite Hang Da Market, Hanoi) make the wait and the basicbench seating well worth enduring.This place churns out justone dish, bun bo (a beef and rice noodle broth with freshvegetables) but they do it better than anywhere else.✴You will be hard-pressed to find a foreigner at Banh Cuon
(72 Hang Bo, Hanoi).This is a butcher’s shop by day and a caféfrom noon, when Ms Anh, the characterful owner, serves up herrecipe for Banh Cuon handed down through three generations.✴ Serving the dish of the same name, Banh Xeo (46a DinhCongTrang, Ho Chi Minh City, +84 83824 1110) has thebest ‘crispy crepe’ that reveals French, Khmer and SouthernIndian influences. Rice flour, coconut and chicken workingtogether withVietnamese flair.✴ Over the last 10 years, we have employed many childrenaffected by human trafficking at Bobby Chinn (77 Xuan DieuRoad, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, +84 43934 8577).Workingwith NGO, Blue Dragon, our restaurant now self-managed asa cooperative where up-and-coming chefs serve signature dishessuch as BBQ pork ribs with Asian slaw and teriyaki salmon burger.✴ Hoang Yen Vietnamese Cuisine (7 Ngo Duc Ke Street,District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, +84 83823 1101) is my favouriterestaurant serving southern-style home cooked cuisine. It’sso popular that they now have four or five locations.✴A great hole-in-the-wall, Restaurant 13 (13 Ngo DucKe, Quan 1, Ho Chi Minh City, +84 8823 9314) servesclassic southernVietnamese food.✴ For ‘imperial’ or ‘royal’ cuisine, try Tib (187 DL Hai BaTrung,Ho Chi Minh City, +84 8829 7242). It’s run and managed bythe brother of Vietnam’s equivalent to Bob Dylan, and the foodcomes on intricate, small plates and replicates the cuisine of theformer imperial city of Hué.The best dish is the jackfruit salad(a stir-fry with rice crackers and fish sauce).
Flydirect from
LondonGatwick
toeitherHanoior
HoChiMinhfrom
£497return.
vietnamairlines.com
A14-daysmall
grouptourtaking
intheculinary
sightsofVietnam,
learningabout
everythingfrom
street foodto ‘royal
cuisine’, including
stays inHoChi
MinhCityand
Hanoi,plusseveral
cookery lessons,
costsfrom£1,099
perperson,with
accommodation
onaB&Bbasis,
transportand
atour leader
anddriver.
explore.co.uk
InVietnam, life is on the streets.The ubiquitous smellsof fish sauce can be found everywhere; the smoke ofgrilled pork perfumes the sidewalk and the sounds ofrustic kitchens hum throughout the day. Street food
is where the culinary action is, so don’t expect comfortablechairs or many of the luxuries of eating out.As with anygreat street food culture, the food is always the star – oftena fabulous single dish cooked to a recipe that has beenhanded down through several generations of one family.
With so much food surrounding you it can be hard todecide where to eat. Here are my favourite places to visitwhen I’m inVietnam.
VIETNAMEatlikealocal
TheHouseofHochefandownerBobbyChinntakesyouonafoodtourofthiscolourfulAsiandestination
FORBOBBY CHINN’S
VIETNAM RECIPES,SEE PAGE 62
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Fantastic non-stickceramic frying pansThe healthier, tougher and easier-to-use frying pan
– complete set just £49.99
TO ORDER, CALL 0844 4826015 QUOTING OL102 ORVISIT EASYLIFEGROUP.COM/OLIVEMAGAZINET&Cs Offer subject to availability. Please allow up to 14 days for delivery. Offer available to UK mainland customers only, some exclusions may apply. For overseas orders, please call for a quotation. If dissatisfied, please return unused within seven days for a full refund. **Calls to 0844
numbers will cost no more than 10p a minute from a BT landline. Calls from mobiles and other networks may cost more. Supply and fulfilment by Easylife Group Ltd, Euro House, Cremers Road, Sittingbourne ME10 3US.
Data protection Immediate Media Company Limited (Publishers ofO) would love to keep you informed by post or telephone of special offers and promotions from the Immediate Media Company Group. Please state at time of ordering if you would prefer not to receive these.
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108 O MARCH 2014
Thesebrilliantpansarecoatedwithtwolayersofthe latestnano-ceramicmaterial fortheultimatenon-stickfinish.Thisenablesyoutofrywith littleornofat,butteroroil,withouthavingproblemsgettingthefoodoutontotheplate.Practicallyscratch-proofandfarmorehard-wearingthanpreviousso-callednon-stickcoatings, theyarealsomadefromdurablealuminium,makingthemexceptionallylightandeasytouse.
Features include; heatproof Bakelite handles andknobs, heat-resistant exterior and glass and inductionbase. Suitable for all types of stove.
The five-piece set comprises a 20cm frying pan, 24cmfrying pan with lid and a 28cm diameter frying pan with lid.
Orderyoursnowfor just£49.99,saving£10ontheRRP(£59.99).
HOW TO ORDERCall08444826015** andquote OL102.Postsend acheque, madepayable to Easylife,with your name,contact details anditem(s) required, to:OCeramicPanOffer, Euro House,Cremers Road,SittingbourneME10 3USVisit easylifegroup.com/olivemagazine
FREEp&pFive-piececeramicpansetonly£49.99
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Lulu’s notes
TREND WATCHBOTTLED TEAThis ishardlyanewflavourtoBritishpalates,but it’sstrangehowlong it’s takenustoreallyrunwith it.
Bottledteasare increasinglyproper teaasopposedtosweet, fruit-based iceteasandareagreat
alternativeto juiceorwaterwhenyou’reoff thebooze.Makeyourownwithgood-quality loose-leaf tea
or, ifyoureallywanttopushtheboundaries, trykombucha; fermentedteathat is lightly fizzywithan
alcohol-likebite. I likechaiwhiteandgreensenchafromgokombucha.co.uk.
O’sdeputyeditorspendsmostofhertimeexploringcornersofthefoodworldtobringyoufreshideas,newskillsandinsiderknowledge.Thismonth:newsteakcutstotry,Mexicancheeseandhowtouseupyour leftovers
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MARCH 2014 O 109
form
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visitlulus
notes.com
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LOG ON TOLULUSNOTES.COM NOWfo
rm
or
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visitlulus
notes.com
TRY THISMEXICAN CHEESEQueso blanco, queso Chihuahua and quesoOaxaca are three Mexican-style cheeses madein Peckham with organic milk from Kent. Quesoblanco is a soft, fresh cheese that crumbles well,melts well and is the perfect foil for the spice ofMexican food. Relatively bland (in a good way),it’s described by its maker as a lot like feta butnowhere near as salty. Crumble it onto chilli ornachos or sprinkle it on tostadas. Oaxaca is a stringcheese (which means it is quite like mozzarella)and can be metlted onto tortilla or served freshwith a salsa. Chihuahua’sjobistomeltreallywell,sostuff it intochilliesandburyit inburritos.Buythemonlineorsearchforstockistsatgringadairy.com
COOKING CLASSSCHOOL OF WOKSkill-upbytakingacookeryclassandadd
awholenewrangeofdishestoyour
repertoireor learnonevitalnewskill.
Everyoneownsawok,right?Butareyou
actuallyusingitoris itgatheringduston
ashelfandtakingupvaluablespace?School
ofWokinCoventGardenoffersawiderange
ofclassesfromknifeskillstodimsumand
specialistseafoodclasses(pricesstartat£65
forathreehourclass). It’sfun, informativeand
theschoolbelievesthat‘evenafewbasic
cookeryskillscanrevolutioniseyourtimein
thekitchen’.Welovedit.schoolofwok.co.uk
MEAT-FREEThis isoneofmyfavouritequick,easyand
lightcurriesfromO’s recipearchive. Itcan
beshoppedforonthewayhomefromwork
andyoucanalwaysfindthe ingredients.
Perfect forameat-freeMonday.
Tomato, squashand spinach curry30 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY
onion 1halvedandsliced
oil
madras curry paste 2tbsp
butternut squash 1 small,about500g,
cut intochunks
tomatoes 5,quartered
spinach 100g,roughlychopped
basmati rice toserve
■ Cooktheonion in 1 tbspoil for5minutes
until softened, thentip inthecurrypasteand
cookfor3minutes.Addthesquashand
tomatoesalongwith200mlwaterandstir
well.Coverandsimmerfor 15minutesuntil
thesquash is justcookedandthetomatoes
havebrokendown.Stir throughthespinach
andleaveforacoupleofminutestowilt.
Seasonandservewithbasmati rice.
■ PER SERVING 125 kcals, protein 3.6g, carbs
16.7g, fat 5.1g, sat fat 0.5g, fibre 5.5g, salt 0.4g
If you haven’t yet visitedO’s blog,
lulusnotes.com, then you should; it’s
where we put news about ingredients
and products that have missed our print
deadlines (I know, you’d think everyone
would work as far ahead as we do), cocktails
we think are worth drinking, snippets of info
we’ve picked up about emerging trends and,
most importantly, some of our recipes like
Toulouse sausage and butterbean casserole
and baked raspberry cheesecake. Please
you’ve any requests. Andpleaseforgiveany
clunkiness, it’smostdefinitelyawork in
progress. Ifanythingdoesn’tworkforyou,
letusknowandwe’lldoourbesttofix it.
110 O MARCH 2014WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
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BEER NERDDON’T JUST DRINK IT;KNOW WHY YOU LIKE IT!
Notwobarleyvarieties
tastethesame.Robin
Appel,ofbarley
merchantsRobin
AppelLtd, lovesMaris
Otterbarley,which
hethinksisthemost
flavour-richBritish
variety.Thename,like
thatofMarisPiper
potatoes,comesfrom
wheretheyweredeveloped;MarisLane,
Trumpington,Cambridgeshire. Itssoft,honey
flavourssetitapartfromothervarieties–
ittasteslikewarmedbreadora
Sundaymorningcroissant.Maris
Otterbarleyhasbeenusedin
nineofthelastfourteen
ChampionBeersofBritainwhich
coverawiderangeofstylesand
showcaseitsversatility.Tasteit in
EllandBrewery’s 1872Porter
6.5%,ahistoric,chocolatystyle
ofbeerwhichpre-datesstout;or
JeffreyHudsonBitter from
OakhamAles,adelicateMaris
bodyinasauvignonblanc/pinot
grigio-likebeer.Forloversof
sauternes,No:9BarleyWine
fromConistonBrewery
intheLakeDistrict is
sweet,unctuous,and
ladenwithapricot
flavours.Allthreeare
availableinbottle.
Anna Glover
James Chase (far left) & Dominic Jacobs
(far right), friends and co-owners of The
Running Horse pub in Mayfair, tell us
about the signature drink at The Whip,
its upstairs cocktail bar.
(therunninghorselondon.co.uk)
✴Thejuleparrived inLondonasfarback
as1803,althoughits firstdocumented
appearance intheUSwassometimein
theeighteenthcenturycourtesyofUS
SenatorHenryClayofKentucky.He is
creditedwith introducingthedrinktothe
peopleofWashingtonD.CviatheRound
RobinBar inthefamousWillardHotel.
✴ In 1938, themint julepbecametheofficial
beverageservedatChurchillDown’s
world-renownedKentuckyDerby. Madewith
four ingredients:mint,bourbonorwhiskey,
sugarandwater, the julep is traditionally
served inpewtertinstoallowafrost to
developontheoutsideofthecupandkeep
it trulycold–theraces’signaturetins
becamecollector’s items.Remainingever
popularamongstracegoers,almost 120,000
julepsaredrunkeachyear,withKentucky
whiskeythemostpopularbase.
✴AtTheWhip,wearefirmbelieversthat
Britishproduce isthefinestacrosstheglobe
andsowearechampioning local ingredients
inour julep.WeareusingBritishvodka
orginasabase, fromJames’ownfamily
distilleryChase,mixedwithanarray
ofEnglishherbsandbotanicalsand
servedover ice.Here’saversionyoucan
mixathome:
The WhipMakes 1
Muddle50mlWilliamsChaseGBGinwith5
mint leaves, 1 teaspoonofhoneyand15ml
lemonjuice inthebaseofa juleptin.Add
crushed iceandmuddletogetheragain.Top
with 15mlsoda.Weservewitha julepstrainer
onthetop(notshown)withthymestalksand
asprinkle icingsugar.
MARCH 2014 O 111
lulu’s notes/tips & skills
CHEAT SHEET THE JULEP
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EASY TO REMEMBER WINESTO LOOK OUT FOR ONWINE LISTS
URBAN UCO MALBEC 2012,
ARGENTINA, 14%,
Forawinegrownintheshadowof
theAndes, inthepure,clearairof
theUcoValley,Urbanseemsan
oddname,butitreferstowhere
thiswineshouldbeenjoyed,not
wherethegrapesaregrown.
Madefrom100%malbec
grapes,thewineisfullof
damsonandcrushed
raspberryexuberancewitha
touchofcocoaandspice. It
hastheweightand
concentrationtoaccompany
aweekendsteak inachic
cityrestaurantbutit isn’t
offendedbyamid-week
casseroleathome.
FindUrbanUcoMalbec,
Argentina2012,14%on
thelistatLimainLondon
andatFishersintheCity
inEdinburghataround
£38orbuyittodrinkat
homefrombranches
ofLeaandSandeman
inLondonandat
MartinezinIlkleyat
around£11.
Christine Austin
✴WINELISTSTAR
WHAT’S ALL THE FUSS ABOUTHOT PEPPER SAUCE
O’s resident food
adventurer, Gregor Shepherd,
dispells the myths and guides
you through techniques that
may seem daunting but, in
fact, are worth spending the time over
Whatistheoppositeof‘spicy’?Theopposite
of‘hot’?Theoppositeof‘saucy’?
Isthatwhatyouwantforyourself?Foryour
life?Isthatreallywhoyouwanttobe?‘Idon’t
mindspicyfood,butIdon’t likeittoospicy’.
Canyouhearyourself?
Chilli infooddoesn’tdetractfromitsflavour,
itaddsheatthatbringstheflavoursalive. ‘But
thechildren,thinkofthechildren!’Howdo
childrenmanageinMexicoorIndiathen?
Peoplewhodon’t likechilliareabit likepeople
whodon’t likefish,ormusic,orreading.
I’mnotsayinglifeshouldbeaperennialheat
endurancetestforthemucousmembranes,
butlet’shaveabitofzingshallwe?Lookat
theworldofchillisoutthere–thespicesand
flavourscreationandselectivebreedinghave
givenus–fresh,pickledanddried–habañero,
jalapeño,bird’seyeandscotchbonnet.
SrirachasaucefromThailandandhotpepper
saucefromtheWestIndies.
Forgetweirdteenagemachostuffsuchas
thatwhichIatefora£20bettwomonthsago
causingmeuntranslatablepain.
It’seasytomakegoodstuffyourself–you
willevenhavethechancetodonyourrubber
glovesbeforebanishingthemforeverfrom
yournowso-much-more-than-humdrumlife!
Cheeseontoastwillneverbethesameagain.
FindGregor’srecipeforhotpeppersauceon
lulusnotes.com from5February.
CORRECTIONIn theFebruary issueofO,onsale02/01/14
to05/02/14, there was an error in the feature
Double lives, inadvertently introduced in the
course of the editing process. The feature should
have read: ‘To fulfil bigger orders, she [Nicola
Patchett] would have had to stop working at
home and invest in a production kitchen (N.B.
home-producers must register with the council;
pass hygiene certificates; environmental health
inspections; and take-out specialist insurance).’
Nicola Patchett, of Patchett’s Confectionery has asked us to note that
she has complied with all requirements for home-producers,
including those set out above. We apologise to Nicola, and to the
writer of the feature, Tony Naylor, for this error. PH
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112 O MARCH 2014
lulu’s notes/tips & skills
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FLATIRONSTEAK
Cutfromthe
feathermusclein
theforequarterof
thecow,thisistender,
hasashort-grainedtexture
andmoreflavourthansteaks
frommusclesthatdon’tworkashard,
suchasfillet. It isoftenscoredinacrisscross
patterntostopitpullingupatthesidesasitcooks.
Theseshouldbecookedmedium,neverwelldone.
4 OF THE BEST:UNUSUAL STEAK CUTSFollowing a Quality Standard beef and lamb butchery masterclass
in theO kitchen with butcher Martin Eccles, we’ve all been
converted to trying some different types of steak. Here’s what
we recommend – search your supermarket or ask your butcher.
For more information visit simplybeefandlamb.co.uk
BISTRO STEAKSCutfromthe
siderumpmuscle,this isseam
butcheryatitsbestandgives
asmall,neat,roundishsteakwith
anexcellentflavourandnoseams
ofsinewrunningthroughit. It’smuch
bettervaluethanfilletsteakandwe
thinkagreatalternative.
PICANHA (PEE-CON-YA)Thisisthetopmuscleofthe
rumpandhasathicklayeroffatononesidewithapoint
ortipatoneend.HighlyprizedinBrazil, it istender
andjuicy,andsteaks(shownhere)cutfromit
arefoldedinhalfandskeweredfat-side-out
tocookovercoals.Tocookwholepicanha
underagrillor inapan,cookthenon-fat
sidefirst,thenturnitoverandcook
fat-side-downtocrispandchar
thefat.Alayerofsaltflakes
onthefatwillmakeittaste
evenbetter.Youcanalso
finishit intheoven.Cook’s
perk:thetipisthemost
tenderpart.
HANGERSTEAKAlsoknownasonglet,this
hasadistinctlydifferenttextureand
flavourtoothersteaks,witha
coarsergrainandabeefier,
almostgameytaste. It
isbutterfly-cutfrom
theskirtmuscle,
whichmeansacut
ismadethroughthe
thicknessofthesteakand
it isopenedoutlikeabook.
SuperSoupLunch
Lent 2014
Holding a Super Soup Lunch is an easy way to raise
money to help poor communities around the world.
Get all the resources and information you need: fill out
the form below or visit www.christianaid.org.uk/soup11
Title Forename
Surname
Church name/Christian Aid committee/Company
Address 1
Address 2
Town
Postcode
I am happy for Christian Aid to call me. My daytime telephone number is:
Email address (Please complete if you are happy to receive emails from Christian Aid)
Please complete and return to the address below (no stamp required):
Freepost RSUR-YSTS-KJUL, Christian Aid, 35-41 Lower Marsh, London SE1 7RL
UK registered charity no. 1105851 Company no. 5171525
Scot charity no. SC039150 NI charity no. XR94639 Company
no. NI059154 ROI charity no. CHY 6998 Company no. 426928
The Christian Aid name and logo are registered trademarks of
Christian Aid. © Christian Aid January 2014
14-611-J1951 Photo: Christian Aid.
A019047
Getsteamedupaboutpoverty thisLent!
MARCH 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
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lulu’s notes
114 O MARCH 2014
There are tons of lovely looking storage containers
available, from vintage tins and pricey ceramics to
cheap and cheerful plastic. They all look the part, but
for effective storage they need to do the job well. For keeping
biscuits crisp, coffee and spices fresh and sugar dry you need
an air-tight seal. Check lids fit tightly and have a silicone seal
to keep any air out. Before investing in a set of containers,
make sure they fit the width of your shelf. Also, if they are to
sit anywhere near your stove-top make sure they’re wipe-clean;
frying bacon can spit fat a considerable distance.
KITCHEN KITSTORAGE
Nextmonth
Gadgetsonsale5March
Each month, Lulu gives you advice on what it’s worth spending your moneyon for the kitchen, from big ticket items to utensils that you really shouldn’t bewithout. Lulu’s tested them, owns them and really, really rates them
SPICES
Foragoodflavour,spicesshould
befresh,andthatmeansairtight
containers. Ifyoudecantspices
thenwritethedateonthe
containersoyouknowhowold
theyare.Mymainproblemwith
spiceracks is thattheyrarelyhold
enoughcontainers,orthat, if they
do, thentheytakeuptoomuch
room. Ikeepmine inadrawer
(awayfromlight)on insertsto
stopthemrollingaround.Spices
bought in jarsfit intothecurved
trays,andthosethatcomein
bags Idecant intooldspice jars
orthoseteenyBonneMaman
jamjars. Ialsohavesomejars
withbuilt-ingrindersfor
anything Iwanttogrindfreshly.
Apackofsixacrylic jargrinders
is £9.40pluspostagefrom
waresofknutsford.co.uk.
SMALL CONTAINERS FOR LEFTOVERS
IuseCleanClickcontainersofvaryingsizesas
they’refairly indestructibleandthe lidscontinueto
workhoweverbadlytheyaretreated.Theproblem
withsomestorage isthat ifyoubendthe lidsthey
willneverworkproperlyagain. (lakeland.co.uk)
A CAKE CONTAINER
Thecakecontainerthatworksbest is theoneyoucan
getcakes intoandoutofeasily.ArgosstocktheCurver
RoundCakeStorewhich is34.5cmindiameterfor
£9.99.Thishasa lidthat liftsoff thebasesoyoucan
leaveyourcakeonthebaseandcutaslicewhenyou
wantand ithasacarryhandle. (argos.co.uk)
BOWLS WITH LIDS
Thesearebrilliant ifeitheryouhave
recipesthathaveahalf-waystopping
point,or forstackingthecomponent
partsofarecipeontheworksurface.
ThereareglassandPyrexsetsavailable,
butasetwithtabbedlidsmakesgetting
the lidsoffwithoutthrowingthe
contentsroundtheroommucheasier.
Thisstainlesssteelset isstackablewhen
not inuseandwillgothroughthe
dishwasher. (£59.99,domu.co.uk)
CONTAINERS THAT LOOK NICE
Open kitchen shelves can look very messy if
you have a mixture of storage containers, mine
certainly do. I intend to make everything neat,
tidy and matching so I’ve started buying
containers from Sebastian Conran for John
Lewis. I like them because they have a
transparent lid so I can see what’s in them. LJust
containers are equally as good – they vary in size
but are generally a bit wider than the Sebastian
Conran ones. Fortunately, they come in both red
and white, and you can get them from IKEA.
(johnlewis.com)
COFFEE AND TEA
Aswithmostotherfood,youneedanairtight
containertokeepthingsattheirbest.Fortea
bagsthataren’tusedquickly, loose-leaf tea
andcoffee, Iusecontainerswithasilicone
sealonthe lid.Atabout£16, thesearenot
cheapbutthey lookniceandthecolourrange
tochoosefromissuitablyScandi formost
kitchens. (typhoonhousewares.com)
BAG CLIPS
IKEABevarabagclipscost£2forabagof30different
sizes, they’rereusable,washableandprettytoughand
willdothe joball thosestickersonresealablepacksare
supposedtobutdon’t. (ikea.com)
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form
or
e tipsandrecipes
visitlulus
notes.com
Feta and spring onionsAn omelette■ Serves 2
Sliceandboil200gnew potatoes forabout
4-5minutesuntil just tender. Fry3sliced
spring onions inadeepfryingpanwith1tbsp
olive oiluntil soft.Addthepotatoesandcook
for 1minute.Season,add4beateneggsand
scatterwith50gofcrumbled feta.Cookuntil
setandfinishunderapreheatedgrill tomelt
thecheese.Servewithagreen salad.
Feta and roastedred pepperTartines for lunch■ Serves 2
Toast2 longslicesofsourdough.Sprinkle
eachwitha littleolive oil andsome
seasoning.Slice3piecesofred peppervery
thinly,put inabowlandcrumbleover75g
feta.Addsomechoppedparsley,coriander,
chivesorbasil (whateveryouhave)and
dresswitha littleolive oilandsomered wine
vinegarorbalsamic vinegar.Spoononto
thetoastsandservewithsalad.
Roasted red pepperSalsa for steaks■ Serves 2-4
Finelychopashallot,2pieces of red pepper
andaripeavocado.Put inabowlanddress
withred wine vinegar,olive oiland
seasoning.Addafewred chilli flakes ifyou
like. Ifyou’vestillgotsome feta left thenstir
that intoo.
MascarponeA sauce for grilled fish■ Serves 2
Mixthezestofa lemon into 100g
mascarponeandaddasqueezeof juice,
seasonwell.Spoonontogrilledfish.
Leftovers
Spring onionsA dressing for salmon■ Serves 2
Slice3spring onions thinly,atanangle
andcoverwith1/2 tspsugar,2 tbsp rice wine
vinegar, juiceofa lime, and1tspchopped
red chilli andseason.Breakupaskinnedhot
smoked salmon filletorsmoked salmon
sliversandpouroverthemarinade.Scatter
withcoriander andservewith lime wedges.
abasco chipotleand soured creamSpicy burgers■ Serves 2
Mix 1 finelychopped shallotwith200g
mincedbeef,someseasoningandagood
slugofchipotle Tabasco.Mixwellwithyour
handsandshape into2flatburgers.Fryor
grilluntilbrownedalloverandcookedto
your liking.Serve insplitpittawith soured
creamandsomefinelyslicedonion.
CeleryEasy side dish■ Serves 2-4
Trimandpeelany leftover celery.Put it ina
pan,coverwithchicken stock, seasonand
addaknobofbutter.Bringtoasimmerand
cookuntil tender,simmeroff theexcessstock
andserve.
Celery1 of your 5 a day■ Serves 2
Finelyslice4sticksofcelery andput it in
abowl.Addapeeledandcoarselygrated
apple, sometoastedwalnutsanda large
handfulof finelyslicedwhite orred cabbage.
Dresswitholive oil,white wine vinegar and
Dijon mustard andseasonwell.
Puy lentilsHearty salad■ Serves 2-4
PutPuy lentils inapan,coverwithwater
andaddsomechoppedonionorshallot,
asprigofthyme, ifyouhaveone,andabay
leaf.Bringtoasimmerandcookuntil tender.
Drainandtop intoabowl.Addaknobof
butteralongwithsome olive oil and
balsamic vinegarandtosstogether.Stir
throughrocket, shreddedspinachor
chopped tomatoes ifyou like.
AnchoviesSupper for 1■ Serves 1
Finelychop8anchoviesandmixthemwitha
finelychoppedshallot andplentyofsoftened
unsalted butter.Masheverythingtogether.
Toastslicesofsourdoughorwhite bread and
spreadwiththemixturewhilestillpipinghot.
AnchoviesPerk up broccoli■ Serves 2
Steamaheadofbroccoli florets until tender.
Coarselygratesomewhite bread andfry in
olive oil until crisp,add8finelychopped
anchovies andplentyofblack pepper and
stir foracoupleofminutes.Tipoverthe
broccoli toserve.
Ciabatta mixDough balls for dipping■ Serves 2-4
Makeuptheciabatta mix followingthe
packet instructions.Dividethedoughinto
ballsandputtheminabutteredovenproof
dish.Leavetoproveuntildoubled insize.
Bakefor 15minutesthenbrushthemwith
meltedbutterwithacloveofcrushedgarlic
mixed into it.Servewithsoup.
We need to use up...Feta, roasted redpepper, mascarpone,spring onions, abascochipotle, soured cream,celery,Puy lentils,anchovies, ciabatta mix
Somecooks lovethechallengeofafridgefullofleftovers,othersnotsomuch.So,wherewe’veusedhalfapackofsomethingorafewspoonsoutofa jar,we’vecomeupwithacoupleof ideasforwhattodowiththerest RecipesLULUGRIMES,ANNAGLOVER
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SOME WORDS
YOU WON’T
SEE INO
Our style is to
write as we talk:
informed but
unpretentious and
with a sense of
humour. We avoid
these terms:
✴TASTY
Toovague.
✴FOODIE
TO DESCRIBE
A PERSON
Toodivisive.
✴SCRUMMY
OR YUMMY
We’renotstill in
nurseryschool.
✴FARE
Wewon’tbe
mentioning
gammonfrom
chainpubs.
✴EATERY
Doyoustopoffat
theseondaysout
atthebuyeries?
✴WASHED
DOWN WITH
TooFamousFive.
✴FUNKY
Just likedad
atawedding.
✴FOR BEST
RESULTS
No, let’smake
amediocreversion,
shallwe?
✴NOM
NOM NOM
Nonono.
O’S PROMISE TO YOU
We hope you enjoyO’s recipes,
restaurant reviews and travel features
all the more because they are served
up with a sense of humour. But we are
as serious about eating well and with
a conscience as you are. Here’s what
the team promises you can expect
in every issue:
TRIPLE-TESTED RECIPESWetestour
recipesat least threetimes.Thecookery
teamtastesandadjuststhem, ifnecessary,so
youendupwiththeperfectdisheverytime.
EASY RECIPESWebelieveyoucaneatwell
athomeevenifyoudon’thavebagsoftime.
MostofO’srecipesarequickandeasy,
andcanbemadeusingaccessibleingredients.
THE ODD CHALLENGEWeekendsare
formoreadventurouscooking,wethink,sowe
includesomerecipesthatwill takemoretime.
GOOD VALUEJanine’s7mealsfor£35
showsyouexactlywhattobuyandexactly
whattocookfromMondaytoSunday
without itbeingapain inthepurse.
SEASONAL EATINGWethink itmakes
sensetouse ingredientswhentheyare
attheirbest.
HEALTHY EATING80%healthy,20%
indulgent is thewayweliketoeat,but
youcanmakeupyourownmind
–nutritional informationfollowsrecipes.
PROVENANCE MATTERSWelove
tofindgreat ingredientsfromexcellent
producers,butthereoften isn’t timeforthat,
sowealsoshopcarefully insupermarkets.
Wherepossible,weusefree-rangeeggs
andchickens,humanelyrearedmeat,
organicdairyproducts,sustainably
caughtfish,unrefinedsugarandfairly
traded ingredients.
OURRECIPESBecauseO’s recipesdon’talwaysgive
exactquantities for ingredientssuchasoilandbutter,
nutritionalquantitiesmaynotalwaysbe100%accurate.
Analysis includesonlythe listed ingredients,notoptional
ingredients, suchassalt,oranyservingsuggestions.
MeatCareshouldbetakenwhenbuyingmeatthatyou
intendtoeatraworrare.
EggsUse largeeggs,unlessotherwisestated.Pregnant
women, theelderly,babiesandtoddlers,andpeoplewho
areunwell shouldavoideatingrawandpartiallycookedeggs.
VegetarianAlwayscheckthe labelsonshop-bought
ingredientssuchasyoghurt,cheese,pestoandcurry
saucestoensuretheyaresuitable.
Recipecostingsarebasedontheexactamount
of ingredientused; forexample, 125gofbutterwill
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MARCH 2014 O 117
10 Indianchickenwraps28 Pot-roastchickenwithbacon,
peasandlettuce77 QuickThai junglecurry86 Spicedchickenwithsweet
potatowedges
Fish & seafood40 Crawfishétouffée54 Halibut,purplesproutingbroccoli,
preserved lemon64 Hanoicalamarisalad32 Roastfennel-stuffedbreamwith
fennelseedandorangeoil63 Sakesteamedclams46 Salmonandhollandaisetart40 Sesamesalmonwithbroccoli88 Singaporecrabnoodles48 Springonionandprawnempanadas
Vegetables115 Celaryandwalnutsalad83 Cauliflowerandgingercurry88 Curriedcauliflowerrice78 Halloumipizzetteswithcaper
andchillidressing74 Rigatoniwithtomato, rosemary
andparmesansauce81 Roastedcauliflowerandgrapesalad
withbuttermilkdressing86 Spinachandfetaquesadillas50 Spinachandpotatocurry110 Tomato,squashandspinachcurry76 Warmroastedpepperand
butterbeansalad
✴VEGETARIAN ✴READY WITHIN 30 MINUTES ✴LOW FAT (12G OR UNDER PER SERVING) ❉FREEZABLE
90recipesand ideasStarters, sandwiches,snacks and soups
115 Anchovytoasts60 Blackpuddingscotchquail
eggsliders82 Cauliflowerandmanchegofritters
withromescorelish83 Cauliflowercarpacciowith
lemondressing10 Cheddarpopovers65 Cheesefondue54 Chicorysaladwithgorgonzola,
pinenutsandhoney115 Doughballs48 Dukkahgoat’scheesewith
homemadeflatbread115 Fetaandroastedredpeppertartines115 Fetaandspringonionomlette50 Goat’scheeseandpeartartines46 Leekand potatosoupwith
frizzled leeks40 Roastbeefpo’boy50 Salmonwraps83 Spicedcauliflowersoup50 Springonionpancakes73 Spicedsquashsoup88 Verygreensoup
Drinks50 BloodorangeCamparispritz46 Sazerac111 TheWhip
Sides and sauces115 Braisedcelary50 Braised leeks115 Broccoliwithanchovies50 Creamedspinach50 Leekandchilli squeak115 Mascaponesauce83 Quickcauliflowergratin115 Roastedredpeppersalsa51 Spinachandjalapenomadeleine50 Springonionsaladdressing50 Whippedgoat’scheesedip
Breakfasts, bakingand puddings
50 Bloodorange jelly32 Briochetreacletart68 Chocolatemousse122Lemonandwhitechocolate layer loaf41 Louisianabourbonbreadpudding36 Meltingmomentswithblood
orangecurd56 Rhubarbtartwithvanilla icecream42 Sugar-dustedbeignets
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March2014
WhyOrecipesworkeverytimeWe test all recipes at least three timesso they work without fail for you
1 The first time is by the recipe writer, whotests it in their own kitchen.2 Next, a member of the cookery team makesthe recipe in the O test kitchen.3The recipe is then tested at our photoshoot.Somerecipes are tested a fourth time at home by individualmembers of theO editorial team – we’re all keencooks and often can’t resist trying out a recipe weparticularly love as soon as we’ve discovered it.
✴Testing our recipes three times or more mayseem over-cautious, but mistakes can be costly,so it makes sense to ensure you get the rightresult every time.✴We’ve also checked that the majority ofingredients are available to buy easily and provideonline suppliers for those that are trickier to find.✴ If you need help with a recipe, phone usbetween 9.30am and 5.30pm, Monday to Friday,and we’ll be happy to help. Or email us and we’llget back to you as soon as possible.❉ This symbol means recipes can be frozen.Unless otherwise stated, freeze for up to threemonths. Defrost thoroughly before eating andheat until piping hot.
✴Always check shop-bought ingredients suchas yoghurt, cheese, pesto and curry saucesto ensure they are suitable for vegetarians.Recipe queries 020 7150 5024
Food editor Janine Ratcliffe, left, and chief recipe
tester Kate Calder in theO kitchen
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MainsMeat103Flammkuchen28 Gamepie86 Gingerandporkpattieswithnoodles28 Herb-crusted lambwith lentils79 Porkchopswithapplemash86 Purplesproutingbroccoliwithpancetta
andsoft-boiledeggs88 Quickblackbeanchilli40 Rootbeerglazedham62 Sauteedbeefwithrice
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mashandgrainmustardsauce75 Smokychipotlemeatballs115 Spicyburgers
67 Steakandalepudding
Birds
5 Chicken,ciderandsmokybaconpuffpie88 Chickenpaillardwithredpeppers63 Chickenwingscooked incaramelsauce
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Lemon and whitechocolate layer loaf45 minutes + chilling ■ Serves 6-8
■ A LITTLE EFFORT
butter 175g,plusa little forthetin
golden caster sugar 175g,plus 1 tbsp
eggs 3
self raising flour 150g
baking powder 1/2 tsp
ground almonds 50g
lemons 2,zestedandjuiced
ICING
white chocolate 200g
butter 25g
lemon 1, zestedandjuiced
■ Heattheovento180C/fan160C/gas4.
Butterand lineabrownietinapproximately
27cmx18cm.Beatthebutterandsugar
togetheruntil creamythenaddtheeggs,
flourandbakingpowderandfinally the
groundalmondsandbeatagainbefore
folding inthe lemonzestandhalfof the juice.
■ Scoopthemixture intothetinand level
thetop,youneedthecaketobeflatwhen
it’scooked.Bakefor20-25minutesoruntil
cookedandvery lightlybrowned.Cool in
thetinandthenonawirerack.Mixthe
remaining lemonjuiceandcastersugar
andbrushthisoverthetop.
■ Forthe icing,melt thechocolate,butter,1/2 of the lemonzestand juicetogether in
abowlsetoverapanofsimmeringwater
(don’t let it touchthewater).Youcouldalso
dothis inshortbursts inthemicrowave.Stir
until smoothandthencooluntil thickenough
tospread.
■ Cutthecake into3equalstripsandtrim
thetops ifyouneedto.Spreadsomeicingon
onelayer,putanotherstripontop, iceagain
andthenfinishwiththefinalstripbutdon’t
ice ityet.Chill thecakeforanhoursothat it
canfirmupthentrimanybrownedges
(cooksperks)and icethetop(warmthe icing
inthemicrowave ifyouneedtosoften it).
Sprinkleontheremainingzestand leaveto
setbeforeslicing.
■ PER SERVING 544 kcals, protein 7.5g , carbs
52.5g, fat 34.1g, sat fat 18.5g, fibre 0.8g, salt 0.8g
Lemon and whitechocolate layer loafWhodoesn’t likelemondrizzle?Thisisasmarter,newerversionwiththedrizzlehiddenwithinit.,plusextraicing.Lovely.Recipe LULUGRIMES PhotographSAMSTOWELL
122 O MARCH 2014
bake of the month
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