3olive magazine - march 2014

124
eat in EAT OUTEAT AWAY Eat in Tom Kerridge’s herb-crusted lamb, slow-roast pork belly and treacle tart Easy Italian menu for friends The new lemon drizzle Eat out The best pubs you’ll ever eat in Eat away Plan a weekend in Rome O h m y , w h a t a p i e ! YOUR SPECIAL SUBSCRIBER’S COVER The pub issue

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Page 1: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

eat inEAT OUT✴EAT AWAY

Eat in✴Tom Kerridge’s herb-crusted lamb,slow-roast pork belly and treacle tart

✴Easy Italian menu for friends✴The new lemon drizzle

Eat out✴The best pubs you’ll ever eat in

Eat away✴Plan a weekend in Rome

Oh my, what a pie!

YOUR SPECIAL SUBSCRIBER’S COVER

The pub issue

Page 2: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

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Page 3: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

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MARCH 2014 O 3

At O, we’re very particularabout what makes a good pub –a fancy cocktail list and linen naperydon’t cut it for us.There’s got to beroom to eat in the bar area.We wantto see snacks like scotch eggs andhomemade pork scratchings chalkedup on the blackboard.A pie isessential. Name-checking local

suppliers on the menu is a bonus, and it needs be somewhere wecan drop in for a glass of wine or a swift half with no obligationto eat. In this special pub-inspired issue, we’ve highlighted ourdos and don’ts, asked chefs to recommend their favouritewatering holes and have six exclusive recipes from the mightyTom Kerridge.Tom’s come up with comforting Sunday lunch classics each

with a new twist. Pork belly is served with a black pudding mashand mustard sauce, and everyone’s favourite dessert, treacle tart,is made with brioche. If you’d like to be in with the chance ofwinning dinner atTom’s pubThe Hand and Flowers, plus aKenwood ChefTitanium worth £599.99, nominate yourfavourite pub pie – see page 23 for details and enter online atlulusnotes.com (it should take all of 5 minutes) – good luck!See you next issue, on sale 5 March.

THISMONTH’S£20MENUFOR4

NEW! Your favourite food magazine is evolving. If you’re a regular reader you’ll notice some changes

this issue. We’ve includedMORE RECIPES in the eat in section and flagged these up as either weekend

(when you can enjoy a few hours shopping and in the kitchen) andeveryday – stylish after-work ideas

when you want to eat something imaginative but have less time. We know you love our unique mix of

recipes, restaurants and food-inspired travel, so we’ve combined the eat out and eat away sections so

that everything is in one place, helping you to plan this month’s food experiences more easily.

And don’t forget, for even more recipes, trends and tips, visit our blog lulusnotes.com.

CHRISTINE HAYES, EDITOR

Stay in touch!Email me at:[email protected] @Omagazine like Omagazine

NEVERMISSANISSUESubscribe toO this month and you’llreceive a copy of Tom Kerridge’s Proper

Pub Food. Plus, you’ll save 20% on theshop price when you pay by Direct Debit.

Call0844 848 9747and quoteOLP314A. See page 57 for more details.

Perfect for a cosy Sunday lunch with friends

99999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999999

✴ Leekandpotatosoupp46

✴ Potroastchickenp28

✴ Bourbonbreadandbutterpuddingp41

WelcomeTOMARCH

£4.96PER PERSON

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Page 4: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

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Page 5: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

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9-17 TRENDS, BUYS, PEOPLE

Cheddar popovers, abargain shiraz and fiveon-trend ingredientsunder £10

16 READER OFFER:

Donald Russelltraditional steak selection

18 FINAL DRAUGHT

Our formula for theperfect pub

23 BRITAIN’S BEST PUB

PIE COMPETITION

Nominate your favourite57 SUBSCRIBE TOO

Receive a copy ofTomKerridge’s Proper PubFood cookbook

87 NEXT MONTH'SO

108 READER OFFER:

Five-piece ceramic panset only £49.99

116 SMALL PRINT

26 SUNDAY LUNCH CLASSICS

Six exclusive recipes fromchef Tom Kerridge

33 THE BIG EASY

Recipes inspired by laid-back Louisiana, includingbourbon bread puddingand mini doughnuts

44 WHAT’S IN SEASON

Salmon, goats cheese, leeks,blood orange and spring onions

53 MENU OF THE MONTH

Relaxed Italian fromCafé Murano

59 LABOUR OF LOVE

Scotch quail’s egg sliders62 COOK LIKE A LOCAL

Vietnamese recipes,including caramelchicken wings

65 WINE MATCH

Cheese fondue66 MAKE YOUR OWN

Steak and ale pudding68 DO TRY THIS AT HOME

Rich chocolate mousse

eat in weekend eat in everyday

Getthe latest issueofO indigital formats

for just£2.99,enablingyoutozoominon

yourfavouriterecipes,

makingthemperfect for

kitchenuse.

Available to

download on

your iPad,

iPhone, Android,

Kindle Fire

or NOOK.

Plus!Seeourstylishrangeofapps,

beautifullydesignedtobepractical,

inspiringandeasytofollow.

Available to download on

your iPad.

MAKE OUR COVER RECIPEChicken, cider andsmoky bacon puff pie1 hour ■ Serves 4-6 ■ EASY

cider300ml

skinless, boneless chicken breasts4

butter50g

echalion shallots 2,sliced(oruse4normal)

smoked streaky bacon6rashers,chopped

plain flour2tbsp

strong chicken stock200ml

double cream 170mlpot

wholegrain mustard 1 tbsp

tarragon 1/2smallbunch,chopped

parsley1/2 smallbunch,chopped

beaten egg forglazing

butter puff pastry 300g

■ Puttheciderinawide,shallowpanand

bringtoasimmer.Addthechicken,coverand

cookfor10minutes,turninghalfway,then

scoopout,coolandtearorcutintochunks.

Putthepanbackontheheatandreducethe

ciderbyhalf.

■ Heatthebutterinaseparatepanandcook

theshallotsuntilsoftened.Addthebaconand

cookuntilcrispedupabitthenaddtheflour

andstir inwell.Graduallyaddthereduced

ciderandchickenstockandbringtoasimmer.

Addcreamandsimmeruntilthickenedabit,

thenstir inthewholegrainmustard,parsley

andtarragon.Seasonwell.Stirthechicken

intothesaucethenputinanovenproofdish.

■ Heattheovento200C/fan180C/gas6.Roll

thepastryouttoa20pthicknessanduseto

coverthepie.Glazewithbeateneggand

decoratewithtrimmingsifyoulike.Bakefor

25-30minutesuntilpuffedandgolden.

■ PER SERVING (6) 596 kcals, protein 29.5g ,

carbs 24.8g, fat 40.8g, sat fat 21.6g, fibre 0.9g,

salt 1.6g

11 83

72 7 MEALS FOR £35

A week’s worth ofstylish suppers

81 3 WAYS WITH...

Inspired ways to use cauliflower,including a Friday night curry

85 SLIMMER DINNERS

Low-fat, low-calorie meals88 QUICK FIXES

Fast after-work dinners122 BAKE OF THE MONTH

The new lemon drizzle cake

MARCH 2014 O 5

Contents March 2014

32Thismonth

90SEASONALRECIPES

INDEX PAGE 117

OBESTPUBPIESponsored by

Nominate your favouritepie on page 23

WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Page 6: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Contents March 2014

Lulu’s notes109 The new way to drink tea110 Fantastic Mexican cheese

and tomato, squash andspinach curry

111 A julep with a British twistand learn more aboutbarley with our beer nerd

112 Hot pepper sauce113 4 of the best steak cuts114 Buy the best storage tins115 How to use your leftovers

form

or

e tipsandrecipes

visitlulus

notes.com

103eat out& eat away92 PRO VS PUNTER

Tom Parker Bowles andO reader Anna InmanreviewThe Magazine.

94 TIME AT THE BAR

Top chefs and restaurateurstell us about their favouritewatering holes

101 BITESIZE BREAKS

Smart pubs with coolrooms plus two specialdeals for O readers

102 POSTCARD FROM

THE BLACK FOREST

Marina O’Loughlin findsthe best food hotspots

105 WEEKENDER: ROME

A local food expert’s guide107 EAT LIKE A LOCAL

Where to eat inVietnam

109

Ready-in-a-flash

recipes

Prepare before

guests arrive so

you can relax

Time-saving

ideas that give

great results

Essential cooking

techniques

explained

For meat-free

Mondays and

beyond

Tips and

advice from

O’s

food team

Great-value

recipes,

restaurants and

travel ideas

USEFULSKILL

SUPERQUICK

MAKEAHEAD

£5.50EACH

Look outfor thesehighlights

COOK’S

NOTES

SHORTCUT

VEGGIEMAIN

SUBSCRIPTION ANDBACK ISSUE ENQUIRIES0844 848 [email protected]

O,Building800,GuillatAvenue,KentScience

Park,Sittingbourne,KentME98GU

EDITORIAL TEAMEDITORChristineHayesACTINGARTDIRECTORHayleyWardDEPUTYEDITORLuluGrimesFOODEDITORJanineRatcliffeTRAVELEDITORRhiannonBattenACTINGTRAVELEDITORSarahBarrellARTEDITORGillianMcNeillCHIEFSUB/PRODUCTIONEDITORGregorShepherdSUBEDITORSarahKingsburyFEATURESWRITERDanielleTheunissenEDITORIALASSISTANTAnnaGloverPICTUREEDITORGabbyHarringtonDESIGNERMikeCuttingWINERECOMMENDATIONSChristineAustinTHANKSTO BeréngèreAriaudodeCastelli,KateCalder,AyseCihanyaudi,NeilDarby,CathMackenzie,ToddSlaughterToemailus,pleaseuse [email protected]

RECIPE, RESTAURANT AND TRAVEL ENQUIRIES

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ADVERTISINGDIRECTORJasonElsonGROUPHEADDISPLAYANDCLASSIFIEDMyrtoKoutsiaSENIORDISPLAYSALESEXECUTIVECatherineNicolsonDISPLAYSALESEXECUTIVERosieBee,CandiceBurrowCLASSIFIEDSALESEXECUTIVEAimeeVinceREGIONALAGENCYSALESNicolaReardenINSERTSHarryRowland

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BRANDSOLUTIONSGROUPHEADNicolaShubrookSENIORBRANDSOLUTIONSSALESEXECUTIVECharlieFarrBRANDSOLUTIONSSALESEXECUTIVEAbigailSnelling

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AD SERVICES AND PRODUCTION

GROUPPRODUCTIONMANAGERKoliPickersgillPRODUCTIONMANAGERKateWilleySENIORPRODUCTIONCOORDINATOREmmaPurdyCLASSIFIEDSERVICESMANAGER EleanorParkmanHEADOFADVERTISINGSERVICESSharonThompsonADVERTISINGSERVICESCOORDINATORSCherineAraman,AlanHallett

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CHAIRMANStephenAlexanderDEPUTYCHAIRMANPeterPhippenCHIEFEXECUTIVEOFFICERTomBureau

BEAN INSIDERWewanttoknowwhatyouthink.Afterall, themoreweknowaboutyou,

thebetterplacedwearetobringyouthebestmagazinepossible.Sowe

would liketo inviteyouto joinouronlinereaderpanel ‘Insiders’.

Interested?Logonto immediateinsiders.com/

register tofillouttheshortregistrationsurvey

andwe’llbe intouchfromtime-to-timetoask

foryouropinionsonthemagazineandother

relevant issues.

Welookforwardtohearingfromyousoon.

6 O MARCH 2014WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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Page 7: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

1. Visit us at www.gousto.co.uk2. Choose the recipes you love3. Enter your discount code OLIVEFEB4. Simply cook!

How to redeem your £20 coupon

From

£4.13per meal

Healthymeals

FREEdelivery

Exclu

sive offe

r

for Olive read

ers

WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Page 8: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

honda.co.uk/drivehappily

Fuel consumption figures for Jazz 1.2 i-VTEC S in mpg (l/100km): Urban 42.8 (6.6), Extra Urban 61.4 (4.6), Combined 53.3 (5.3).CO2 emissions: 123g/km. Fuel consumption figures sourced from official EU-regulated laboratory test results, are provided forcomparison purposes and may not reflect real-life driving experience.

Model Shown: Jazz 1.2 S Manual in Milano Red Non Metallic at £10,495 On The Road (OTR). Terms and Conditions: New retail Jazz 1.2 S registered from 2 January 2014 to 31 March 2014. Subject to model and colour availability. Offersapplicable at participating dealers and are at the promoter’s absolute discretion. The advertised saving of £1,200 (including VAT) discount to the OTR price for the Jazz 1.2 S applied to the retail invoice. Honda Aspirations (PCP): *£140per month example shown based on Jazz 1.2 S in Milano Red Non Metallic at £10,995. Total cash price including 5 Year Care Package (and total amount payable) with 37 months 0% APR Representative (interest rate per annum 0% fixed)with £1,795.20 (16%) deposit, Guaranteed Future Value / Optional Final Payment of £4,159.72 annual mileage of 10,000 and excess mileage charge: 3p per mile. You do not have to pay the Final Payment if you return the car at the endof the agreement and you have paid all other amounts due, the vehicle is in good condition and has been serviced in accordance with the Honda service book and the maximum annual mileage has not been exceeded. Indemnities maybe required in certain circumstances. Finance is only available to persons aged 18 or over, subject to status. All figures are correct at time of publication but may be subject to change. Credit provided by Honda Finance Europe Plc. 470London Road, Slough, Berkshire SL3 8QY. The 5 Year Care Package includes: Servicing: All scheduled servicing, as detailed in the vehicles service book, will be covered for 5 years or 62,500 miles, whichever comes first. Warranty: Inaddition to the standard 3 year warranty the customer will receive a complimentary 2 year extended guarantee taking the warranty to 5 years or 90,000 miles, whichever comes first. Roadside Assist: In addition to the standard 3 yearsroadside assistance package the customer will receive complimentary Hondacare Assistance for a further 2 years, taking it to 5 years or 90,000 miles, whichever comes first. The 5 Year Care Package: The 5 Year Care Package is optional.It is being offered for £500 including VAT (usual value £1,545 including VAT) and is available to finance or non finance customers. Please note, should you sell the vehicle during the period of cover, the package remains with the vehicle.

for £140* a month

Drive happily ever after0% APR Representative

OTR £10,995, Customer saving £1,200

8 years as the UK’s most reliable car brand

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Page 9: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Pub-stylesteakandchipsathome,adecent£5shirazandthebestbluecheese intheworldCompiledbyDANIELLETHEUNISSEN PhotographsSAMSTOWELL

If you only make one recipe this month, try this cheesy American take on Yorkshire pudsfrom new NYC-style steak restaurant, Stripbar and Steak (stripbarsteak.com)

STARRECIPECHEDDARPOPOVERS

MarchTRENDS • BUYS • PEOPLE

RECIPEON

PAGE 10

news & ideasST

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MARCH 2014 O 9WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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Page 10: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

✴STAR RECIPE

FANCY A GLASS WITH DINNER?

PickupabottleofDolphin Bay Chenin

Blanc 2012, South Africa, 12.5% (£5.79,

M&S)topartnerthisspicydish. Itsbright

limeandapplefruitcombineswellwith

thespice.

POP INTO M&S FOR A QUICK SPICY DINNER

Cheddar popovers1 hour ■ Makes 10-12 ■ EASY

Youcanbuyapopovertrayfromamazon.co.uk

oraheavynon-stickmuffintinwilldothe job

justaswell

milk 280ml

eggs2

plain flour 165g,sifted

salt

cheddar 200g,grated

■ Heattheovento200C/fan180C/gas6

andputthepopoverormuffintray intoheat

whileyoumakethemix.

■ Warmthemilkto justbeforeboilingpoint.

Whisktheeggswithelectricbeatersuntil

fluffy.Addmilkslowlythen leavetostandfor

3-4mins.Mix 1 tspsalt intotheflourand

graduallywhisktheflour intothemilkand

eggmixtureslowlyuntilyouhaveabatter.

■ Takeouttheheatedtrayandsprayor

brushwithoil.Pour inthebattertoalmost

full,dividethegratedcheddarbetweenthem

andslightlypressdown(don’tscrimponthe

cheese–thiswillgiveyouthepopover

shape).Putthetray intheoven, turndown

to180C/fan160C/gas4andbakefor 15

minutes.After 15minutes, turnthetray

aroundandbakeforafurther30minutes.

Allowtocoolslightlyandgentlytwist tohelp

easethemoutofthetray.Servewithsalted

whippedbutterortrufflebutter.

■ PER SERVING 140 kcals, protein 7.4g , carbs

11.2g, fat 7.3g, sat fat 4.2g, fibre 0.6g, salt 0.8g

Indian chicken wraps15 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY

Heat the oven to 180C/160 Fan/Gas 4

and cook the chicken tikka with

chargrilled vegetables (£3.99/250g).

When the chicken is warm, put two square

wraps (£1.45/420g) in the microwave for

1 minute. Top each wrap with chicken and

crunchy spiced slaw (£1.99/125g). Drizzle

both with the mint dressing and roll up.

£3.23PER PERSON

£6.13

WITH WINE

BOOZE

This stunningamber ale is made

in Dorset with asingle variety of

hops. It has hintsof orange and

spice and abeautiful fresh

flavour, and pairsespecially well withtraditional, hearty

pub dishes such aspies or Sunday roasts.

(£1.99, Asda,Sainsbury’s, Waitrose)

BADGERBREWERY

FIRSTGOLD

10 O MARCH 2014

SUPERMARKET SWEEP

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Page 11: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

BUYER’SGUIDEFOOD EDITOR’S SHOPPING BASKET

JANINE

RATCLIFFE’S

TOP TIPS

MariniTartufi

producesthis truffle

and mushroom salsa

(£3.95/90g) in

Acqulagna,homeof

Italy’s trufflemarkets.

A jarof thissauce in

thecupboardmeans

youcanhavea luxury

storecupboarddinner

inunder 10minutes.

AmericanBBQisthe latest

restaurantcraze,butwithour

rainyweather,wecan’tspend

8hourseverydaytendinga

smoker.JustadashofColgin

Hickory liquid smoke,

(£2.75/118ml)adds instant

BBQflavourstobeanstews,

orslow-braisedpork.

Restaurantsarefermenting

everythingfromsourdough

tovegetablecondiments.

Fizzy,spicyKoreankimchi is

oneofthemostpopular,and

lotsof Korean red pepper

powder (£4/227g) iskey

whenmaking ityourself.

Forsupersmooth

pistachio icecream,

it’sbesttostartwith

apaste.Wetriedtens

ofvarietiesbefore

settlingonthe Sous

Chef pistachio paste

(£6.95/200g)made

with100%pistachios.

Madefromreal

violetpetals,

crystallised violet

petal pieces

(£4.95/40g)are just

therightsizetodrop

intochampagneor

sparklingwinefor

a1920’scocktail.

Nicola Lando is founderof souschef.co.uk, aone-stop shop for rareand unusual cookingingredients. Here are her

top five on-trend ingredients forunder £10.

CORNISH SMOKED SEA SALTWanttoreplicatethatbrilliant,smoky,chargrilledflavouryougetfrom

apubsteakandchipsathome?OnesecretI’vepickedupisusingsmoked

salttoaddanextralayerofflavour.Bringaribeyesteakuptoroom

temperaturethenrubwithoil,andseasonwithcrackedblackpepperand

Cornishsmokedseasalt.Heatagriddleuntilsmokinghotthencookthe

steakfor3minutesoneachsideformedium.Servewithskinnyoven

chipsanddressedwatercress. (£2.19/75g,cornishseasalt.co.uk)

news & ideas

MARCH 2014 O 11WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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Page 12: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

AS TRIED IN THEOOFFICE THIS MONTH

QUICK BITES

Addsomeseriousspice toyourmealtimes

withBaobabchilli jamfromTheAfricanChef.It’sbrilliant

asaspeedymarinadeforfishorchicken,

butwatchout, itreallypacksapunch. (£4.50/215g,

theafricanchef.com)

TABLE-HOPPING

THE PRINCE OF WALESPartpub,partbrasserie, this is the latest

additiontoBrixtonVillage’sknock-outdining

scene.Themenuisamixof inspired

brasseriestyledishes,suchasoxtailpaccheri

andclassics likemoulesfrites.There’salso

awood-firedoventhatturnsoutdelicious

pizzaandahighly-recommendedlamb

shankdish.

Must order:Chestnutgnocchiwithkaleand

wildmushroom,£9.50,oxtailpaccheriwith

pecorinocrumb,£11.50,assietteauchocolat

withpistachioicecream,£5.(pow-london.com)

Three pubs and a chicken shop to add to your hitlist

THE IMPERIALOncea boozer favouredby Chelsea fans (StamfordBridge isonthe

doorstep), thisFulhampubnow caters for acrowd more interested

in foodthanfootie. ChefTomHope’s menuspans lighterdishes like

salmonsashimi,with mouli, avocado,cucumber,watermelon, soyand

ginger, £8.25, throughto heartierpubclassicssuchasporkbellywith

black pudding,£15.Thepale interiorand contemporary light fittings

mean it’s suitable for aweekendbrunch with thefamily aswellas a

midweek supper.

Must order: Burrataandfennel tartwith pinenuts,£8.50, chicken

withbutternut, pecans,bluecheesemousse&honey figs,£16.50,

lavenderand honeycheesecake, £7.50. (the-imperial.co.uk)

HACK & HOPHackandHopisabrilliantnewcraftbeer

pub justoffFleetStreet intheCityofLondon.

It’sacosy localbeerhousewithamodern

interiorandtheupstairsbar is theperfect

spottoescapetheafterworkcrowd.From

itsgreatselectionofbottledbeers, try

Okell’s 1907orgofora localalesuchas

theRedwellpalealeorDevonredcider

ontap.

Must order:Scotchegg,£4.50,confitpork

belly£13.50,chocolate&chestnutterrinewith

espressosyrup,£5.(thehackandhop.com)

CHICKEN SHOP, TOOTINGThesecondbranchofChickenShopfeatures

thetrademarkrusticgoodlooksof its

KentishTownpredecessor.Withplentyof

reclaimedtimber, lowlightingandasimple

menu, itoozesall-Americancharm.Chicken

isservedbythequarter,halforwhole(£4,

£8,£14.50),withsidesofchips,slawandcorn

onthecob,£4.Wine iseither ‘house’, ‘decent

or‘good’,andthere’saselectionoflocalbeers.

Must order:Applepie,£5,dishedupfrom

thewholepieatthetableandservedwithan

enormous jugofcream.(chickenshop.com)

Keep on top of your new year’sresolutions with these smarthome delivery boxes from Gousto.Each box includes recipes andingredients for delicious healthydinners such as flaked cod in atomato sauce with giant cous cousand artichoke linguine in herb and

courgette purée.(gousto.co.uk)

TheamazingflavourcombinationsofnewCuckoobirchermueslipotswill revivifyyourbrekkie.

news & ideas

12 O MARCH 2014WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

WorldMags.net

Page 13: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Katie Alice ® TM 2546896UK

The pretty design and subtle

collection are now available

across a range of vintage

inspired baking accessories

and cookware.

WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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Page 14: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Big Cup Little Cup are the firstever Fairtrade coffee pods andcome in nine different strengths,from the rich chocolatey Highwireto the punchy Millers YardEspresso. The pods are compatiblewith Nespresso machines. (£2.80/box of 10, bigcuplittlecup.com)

Love rib of beef but can’t justifythe expense or excess when thereare only three or four of you?Donald Russell’s Single Bone RibRoast (£34. 1 kg) takes less thanan hour to cook, is well marbled,dry-matured for 28 days and veryeasy to carve (donaldrussell.com)

This light andrefreshingBottlegreen pinktonic water is madewith elderflower,pomegranate andquinine, and isperfect for aninstant, refreshingG&T. (£2.99/4 x175ml, Tesco andWaitrose)

OnFacebook,we

askedyouwhich

of thesewouldyou

NOTfind inyour

perfectpub:

Findoutwhat

makesO’s

perfectpub in

our feature

onpage16.

READER POLL

6%

64%LOUD/ LIVE MUSIC

15%FREE WiFi

15%RETRO DISHES,THAT SHOULDHAVE BEENTAKEN OFFTHE MENUYEARS AGO

COCKTAILS

Take part inour regularpolls by ‘liking’

Omagazine onfacebook or joining ourreader panel atimmediateinsiders.com

QUICK BITES

WORTH THE EXTRA

Our wine expert, Christine Austin,

chooses wines to suit your budget

Saint Clair Pioneer Block 21 Sauvignon

Blanc 2012, Marlborough, New

Zealand, 13% (Majestic Wine, £18.74)

The grapes for this wine come fromBlock 21,a single vineyard closeto the sea in the lowerWairauValleywhere cool breezes keep temperaturesdown and the grapes ripen slowly. Theresult is a flavour-packed wine, fresh and crispwith gooseberry and passion fruit notes, the taste of citrus and a long, zestyfinish. It’s perfect alongside grilled sea bass and prawns but also hits thespot with lightly spiced dishes containing coriander, lime and chilli.

Packed with blackcurrant fruit,liquorice and a touch of mint, The

Wine Selection Limestone Coast

Shiraz 2012, 14% (£5,Asda) willpartner a Monday night casseroleor a Friday night steak.

BARGAIN BOTTLE

WINES OF THE MONTH

£5

IDEAS TO STEAL

MAKE SHEPHERD’S PIE A STARA little clever presentation can turn comfortfood into something special. We love the ideaof serving individual shepherd’s pies in copperpans as seen at Mayfair pub The RunningHorse (therunninghorselondon.co.uk). Findmini pans at lakeland.co.uk or a professionalcatering company such as mrwhiteware.co.uk,from around £8.99. For an easy recipe, visitlulusnotes.com from mid-February.

14 O MARCH 2014

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designed by Katie Alice, will add

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Thispicturesquecityisbuildingupabrilliant

collectionofrestaurantsandcafés,making

itanewhotspotforfood-lovers–avoidthe

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anarrowstreet,ashortstridefromthe

universitycolleges,theshoppinghubandthe

banksoftheriverCam,The Varsity

(thevarsityhotel.co.uk,doublesfrom£140)

arguablyhasthebestviews,fromrooms

overlookingMidsummerCommon.Take

aFrench75cocktail,£9.50,uptotheroof

terracetosoakinthesurroundings.Once

you’vetouredtheuniversitygrounds,stopfor

acoffeeatFitzbillies (fitzbillies.com),a

Cambridgeinstitutionsince1927,recently

takenoverbyfoodwriterTimHaywardand

hiswife.Whilethefamousstickychelseabuns,

£2.50,arestillmadetotheoriginalrecipe,

headchefRosieSykeshasmadeafewchic

updates,withartisancoffeefromLondon’s

ClimpsonandSonsandaseasonal,daily

changinglunchanddinnermenu.For

aheartylunch,theCambridge Chop House

(cambscuisine.com)hasanexcellentvalueset

menu:twocoursesfor£13.50.Trythehaggis

fritterswithbeetrootandwhiskymayonnaise.

PickupsomehandmadeBelgianchocolates

fromChocolat Chocolat (chocolatchocolat.

co.uk)anddon’tmissThe Cambridge

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PEOPLE WE LIKEROSS SHONHAN

Meet the man behind London’s

isakaya-inspired Japanese-style

pub, Flesh and Buns.

‘INMARCHI’LLMOSTLYBEEATINGgrilledmeats

withwarmspringsalads. Ithinkcharcoalgrillingisinevery

man’sDNA.I lovetomarinatefish,meatorchickenwith

misopastesandcookonagrill.Marchisoneofthemost

excitingtimestocookastheseasonsarechanging.

‘MY GUILTY PLEASURE IS Co-opchardonnay

vinegarandseasaltcrisps. IhavetriedALLtypes

of ‘gourmet’crispsbutthesewineverytime!

‘I DON’T OFTEN USE COOKERY BOOKSathome,but

Road,writtenbyAnirudhAroraandHardeepSinghKohli isgreatbecause itcoversseveral

of theamazingfoodregions.

‘MY FAVOURITE RESTAURANT ISBarrafina inSoho.Consistentlyexcellent food,with

agoodatmosphere– it’ssimple,honestcooking.

‘MY FAVOURITE PLACE TO VISIT IS ByronBay,Australia’smosteasterlypoint.Stress

takesabackseatwhenyou’redrinkingbeerwatchingthesunset.

‘IF YOU GAVE ME A TENNER I’dbuyoneortwoporkandstiltonsausagerolls fromThe

GingerPig.Dirtybutdelicious.’

ROSS SHONHAN

(fleshandbuns.com)

BAR-HOPPING

W0RCESTEREach month barchick.com shares the best places

to drink outside the capital

BEST HAPPY HOURHeroes isahiggledy-piggledyagilitycourseofabarwith lowceilings,

exposedbeamsandpool tables.You’ll findthecolourfulcocktail list

scribbled inchalkabovethebarandcocktailsstartatanastonishing

£3.25. (heroesworcester.co.uk)

THE MUST DOBushwackershasseenmorenaughtinessthanCharlieSheen’s

defence lawyer,andwelove it.Thisconvertedchapelstillhasan intact

crypt (currentlyanRnBroom),aswellasa largebeergardenand

glamorousglitteringchandeliers. (bushwackers.co.uk)

BEST BAR SNACKSOnthebanksoftheriverSevern, The Quay isarelaxedrestaurant

that’sbigontapas.Thesharingboardsaresecondtonone,and it’s

apicturesquespottowatchthesunset. (quayworcester.co.uk)

MAKE MINE A COCKTAILATudorfrontedbuilding litupwithfairy lights,The Old Rectifying

House iswhereyou’ll findthemostexperimentalcocktails in

Worcester,witha list thatwouldmorethanhold itsowninanycapital

city.Goforaroastedpecanoldfashioned,£7.50. (theoldrec.co.uk)

NEWEST KID ON THE BLOCKAsuburbanventurefromtheboysbehindTheLondonCocktailClub,

Keystones iskittedoutwithcomicbook-styleartworkandamazing

cocktails,all set toabrilliantsoundtrack. (keystonescocktailclub.co.uk)

NOT MANY PEOPLE KNOW ABOUTAshortwobbledownsomeunevenstepsandyou’ll findyourself

at Cellar Bar.Thiscavernous,exposedbrickbasementbar iscool

andsurprisinglycharming– it’sabitofa local treasure.

(43ForegateSt,Worcester)

MONTAGNOLOAFFINÉOur first thoughts when wethink of Bavaria are rarely ofcheese (and mostly of beer).Things are set to changehowever, with thisstunning, velvety bluecheese made by familydairy KasereiChampignon, whichtook home the firstprize at the WorldCheese Awards at theend of 2013, beating2,700 other cheeses.(£14.50/kg, Waitroseand Sainsbury’sdeli counters)

MARCH 2014 O 17

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GOOD SNACKSOlovesaproper,homemade

pubsnack: theseismicsausage

rollsatCanaryWharf’sGun

(thegundocklands.com); the

era-definingquail’sscotcheggsat

Heston’sHind’sHead(hindsheadbray.

com); therunnyscotcheggatThe

HarwoodArms,picturedhere

(harwoodarms.com).Butwe’renosnobs.

Wecan’tabidepretentiouspubsthatonlystock

wasabipeasandhand-friedrootvegetable

crispsoverScampiFriesorMiniCheddars.

Devilishlytangy,anumamiexplosion,Doritos

weresurely lab-engineeredastheperfect

partnerforacoldpint.

REAL FOOD ATREALISTIC PRICESApubisnotarestaurant.Wedon’twant

tableclothsormenusthatmimicMichelin-

starredestablishments.Arealpubwill serve

acoreofclassicpubmainsatunder£10:

sausage ‘n’mash,burger, fish ‘n’chips,

augmentedbyablackboardofgutsy, rustic

seasonalspecialswhichchangedaily.

Withsuchspecials,achefcanflexcreative

muscle,usingcheaper,unsungcuts,but

without lapsing intofancyrestaurantfood.

Thinkmackerelandbraisedoxtail, local

rabbitand lamb’sbreast, ratherthan

scallopsorseabass. Inthepub,you

shouldn’t feelobligedtoeatthree-courses

and,at lunch, itshouldservesoup,

gussied-upsandwichesandlighterplates.

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Goodpubsarewonderful things,which iswhy, in

Britain,everyonehasstrongopinionsaboutwhat

thismeans.Thisnationaldebatehas inspired

prominentwriters (GeorgeOrwellwroteafamous

essay,TheMoonUnderWater, abouthis imaginary idealpub),

hasgivenrisetoonetheUK’sbiggestpressuregroups,CAMRA,

and itcontinuestofuelmanypassionate, late-nightconversations

intheplaces inquestion.Naturally,atO,wehaveplenty

of ideasaboutwhatmakesaterrific local.Withfantastic food,

qualitybeerandawarmwelcomeinmind,here’s theO

blueprint fortheperfectmodernboozer.

FinaldraughtDiscoverO’s formulaforthe idealboozer, frombeautifulbeertogoodpieskills,andwhatshouldbebarredfor life WordsTONYNAYLOR

A LOVEABLELANDLADY/LORDTheheartofanygreat

pub.Ever-present

behindthebar,visibly

leadingtheiryoung

teamfromthefront,

theexpert landlordor

landlady isebullient

andefficient,asready

witha jokefora

regularastheyare

withan intelligent

winerecommendation

forastranger.They

arefountsof

knowledge.Agreat

landlordcanmixafine

bloodymaryand

knowswhatabrandy

balloon is,butcanalso

pointyoutothe

nearestcashpoint.

Chicken and ham suet pie

at The Crown at Bray

Claire and Jim Alexander, The

Ebrington Arms, Gloucestershire

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HOMELY FROM HOMEWhether it’sanancientrural innoranewlyrefurbishedcity-centre

boozer,apubshouldfeel likeapub:woody,welcoming,warmand

muted in itsdecor.We’rethinkingcracklingopenfiresalongwith

flagstoneorwoodenfloorsandanemphasisonoriginal features.

Anyretro-modernmakeovershouldbemodest, thecolours

dialled-down, furnitureplainsalvage.Thereshouldbenewspapers

strewnabout,nooksandcrannieswhereacouplecanhide,andone

ortwobigtableswhereagroupcancatch-up.Owouldmuch

ratherdrink inaproperpub, thatstillhasa livelygamesroom(pool,

darts,sportsTV), thanaprissystage-set,whichhasbeenblinged-up

expensivewallpapersand ludicrousdesignerfurniture.Bildeston Crown, Suffolk

the pub issue

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BEAUTIFUL BEERIn2014,thismeansnotjustwell-keptcaskales,butalsoedgiercraft-keg

beers,big,boldhop-forwardUSimportsandajudiciousselectionof

bottleswhichrunthegamutfromhipmicros,suchasLondon’sPartizan,

toaclassicGermanpilssuchasJever.Staffshouldknowtheirkölsch

fromtheirIPAs;needtousetherightglasswareforthoseprecious

Belgianlambics;andtheentry-priceforapintmustremainlow.Many

pubsarecynicallyexploitingthecurrentexplosionofinterestingood

beerbyrampingupthepriceofevendull, traditionalEnglishbitters.Such

profiteeringissacrilege.Beershouldbeapleasureforall,withapint

costingnomorethan£2.80.Seekoutpubsthathavealocalbrewery

producingabeerexclusivelyforthem;it’sasuresignthatsaidpubis

seriousaboutitsbeeranditwilloftenbeabargainpint.

A SHORT, ZIPPY WINE LISTTheeraofboxed-winesonthebarandanofferof ‘sweetormedium?’

isbehindus,thankfully.Thebiggerdangernowistrendypubsflirting

with,say,naturalwines,whicharebestenjoyedinaspecialistwinebar.

Inapub,wewanttodrink,natterandrelax,notthinktoohardabout

terroir.Wewantashort,sharplist (if itwon’tfitonablackboardorone

sideofA4, it’stoolong),whichstillpacksafewsurprises.Outsideofthe

olddependables–newworldsauvignonblanconaWednesday;chablis

foratreat–Olovestoseeacoupleofbottlesonthere,aviognier,

godello,ariesling,thatoffermorecomplexity.Wewantwineswecan

lingerover,notthrowdown,servedinelegantstemware,notchunky

tumblers,withsignificantby-the-glasschoice.

FAMILY FRIENDLY– UP TO A POINTChildrenshouldbewelcomed,

cateredforonthemenuand,

perhaps,providedwithacorner,

stockedwithtoysandcolouring

books,wheretheycan

congregate.Butthis isnota

crèche. If therearekidsrunning

around,screamingandcreating

havoc, thenthestaffshouldget

agrip...of theirparents.Likewise,

thoseparentshavetotolerate

theboozyblokesatthebarwho

aregettingabitboisterous,or

thattablewho’vebeendrinking

whitewineallafternoon,and

whose laughtercouldshatter

glass.Fundamentally, this isan

adultspace.Well-behaveddogs

shouldbetolerated, too.

The Star Inn, Yorkshire

The Star Inn, Yorkshire

Bar at The Swan at Southrop

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A TRULY LOCAL LOCALThebestpubsarefirmlyembeddedwithin

anetworkof like-mindedartisanproducersand

retailers.O lovestoseeCAMRA-approved local

beersonthepumps,porkpiesfromanaward-winning

townbutcheronthebar,nearbyfarmsname-checked

onthemenu.Apubknownfor its traditionalcountydishes

or itsregionalcheeseboard is invariablyafantasticpub.

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BEER FEARAtO, we know what we love

in a pub, but also what makes us turnand walk straight out.CocktailsThis isn’t a swanky ‘nitespot’. It’sa pub. And have you seen the queue at thebar? Please, put down that crushed ice andpull us a pint.

Bangin’ tunesWe’re here to talk, not shout. See also:karaoke, covers’ bands, trad. jazz on Sundays.Wi-FiEncourages suits with laptops to hold meetingsin pubs. Isn’t that what Starbucks is for?Neglected beer It says ‘cask beer’outside, but there are more pumps off

than on. What beer they have tastes staleand the staff clearly don’t care.

Throwback pub foodPrawn cocktail,frozen scampi, onion rings that

taste as if they weremadein1978.

HONEST COOKING,ARTISAN SKILLSThepubisabluff,no-nonsense

space,and itscookingshould

reflect that.Thereshouldbe

nofaking it,nobuying-infrom

corporatecaterers.Owants

meatbutcheredon-siteandused

cleverlytokeepcostsdown.We

wantthebrigadetomakeand

bakeeverythingfromthepub’s

legendarydailypie, to itsgravy

andthecrumblefromscratch.

Weshouldseeall thishappening,

too, inabusyopen-kitchen

wherethechefsareforever

deboning,blitzing,churning,

heftingboxesandcleaning

down.Thekitchenshouldbethe

visibleengineattheheartof

thepub, itsenergycontagious.

Andwhystopthere?The

informalnatureofapubmakes

it theperfectplaceforan

enthusiastic teamtodiversify

intobakingandbutcheryclasses

ormeet-the-brewernights.

NO PRESSURE TO EATTheBritishpubis incrisis:26shuteveryweek.Servingfood isessential

ifapubwantstosurvive.However, foodcanonlygosofar.Without

drinkers,withoutacoreofregularsatthebar,havinga laughand

spreadingtheirrosy, three-pintglowthroughoutthepub, thebuilding

becomesadead, lifelessshell.Anypub, therefore,evenadiningpub

withadedicatedrestaurantsection,needsstoolsatthebaranda

numberofundressed,unreservedtables,wherepeoplecandrop-in

andeatordrinkadhoc,ornurseahalfwhilereadingthepaper.

Otherwise, itsimply isn’tapub.

Braised rabbit and chocolate pot at

The Duke of Cambridge, Islington, N1

Bar at The Drapers Arms, London

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Pies are hand filled at the artisan

bakery in North Yorkshire

The perfect pie can be elusive – but M&S pieexpert Matt Dawson says that once you realisethe secret’s in the pastry, you’ll never look back

The life of pie

Everybody loves a pie.Whetheryou enjoy indulging within thecosy confines of yourlocal pub, or like to savour

the pastry-encased treat at home, therearen’t many things as satisfying asa well-made pie. For pie connoisseurMatt Dawson, product developer atMarks & Spencer, the key to a greatpie is the pastry.

‘Pastry is really important,’ says Matt.‘If you get that bit wrong, it doesn’tmatter what you put in the middle –if the pastry’s not right, it’s justgoing to collapse.’.

At the artisan bakery in NorthYorkshire where Marks & Spencer’s artisan pie rangeis produced, in collaboration with local companyYorkshire Baker, great care is taken atevery step of the process to ensure perfect pastry and impeccable pies.

So what is the secret to good pastry? Matt says it’s a combination of things:‘A good bake penetration on the pastry, so it’s nice and crispy on the outside andslightly softer on the inside, plus a really good flavour; nice and buttery andreally rich.’ He adds, ‘A truly fantastic pie should be full of meat’.

Matt’s cheffing background, which spanned 20 years, saw him complete histraining inYork, serve an apprenticeship atThe Savoy, work on the QE2 andQuaglino’s before becoming head chef at London’s Bank restaurant. He now enjoysploughing his extensive knowledge and experience into developing food productsfor M&S. So when this man talks about what makes a great pie, you listen.

‘With the artisan pie range, we wanted to create a traditional flavour but with a twist,’says Matt. ‘For instance, meat and potato: my nan’s meat and potato pie was one of myfavourite dishes. So, instead of the standard mince and diced potato filling, we’veminced premium chuck steak and added smoked bacon and roasted potatoes for animpressive depth of flavour.We alsotweaked some other classics – thehumble pork pie was our inspiration forthe Pork, Cider & Smoked Bacon pie.’

Once great pastry was added into themix, the M&S artisan pie was born. ‘Wealways knew our customers appreciatedgreat pastry,’ says Matt. ‘So when theopportunity arose to work withYorkshireBaker, who we knew made quality pastrywith a perfect consistency, we couldn’twait to get started developing the range.’

Pastry is the most important

element of a perfect pie

Matt Dawson with his

lovingly crafted pies from

the M&S artisan range

M&S artisan pies are £3.49 each.The range includesChicken & Leek; Slow Roasted Ham, Onion & MatureCheddar; Meat & Potato; Steak & Old Peculiar Ale andPork, Cider & Smoked Bacon.

advertisement feature

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Who makes Britain’sbest pub pie?We’veteamedupwithM&StofindBritain’sbestpubpieandweneedyourhelp! Ifyour localmakesapieworthshoutingabout, tellusat lulusnotes.comandyoucouldwinaKenwoodChefTitaniumworth£599.99,PLUS,£300tospendatTheHandandFlowers

TO ENTER VISIT

lulusnotes.comCLOSING DATE FOR

ENTRIES IS NOON FRIDAY7 MARCH 2014

PIE CHARTER■ Thecompetition isonlyopentopiesfrompubs intheUK–we

arenotacceptingsubmissionsfromrestaurants,hotelbarsor

winebars.

■ Thenominatedpiemustbemadeonthepremises,notbought-in.

■ Thepiemusthaveasavouryfilling(meat,vegetarian,or fish).

■ Thepiemusthaveasingleordoublepastrycrust (i.e. topand

bottomcrustor just topcrust).

■ Thepieshouldbeservedhot(wearenotacceptingsubmissions

forporkpies).

■ Thewinningpiewillbetheonethatthe judgingpanelagrees

tastesthebest.

We love a good pub pie at O - one that’s lovingly made onsite, with crisp, flaky pastry and a delicious filling so satisfyingyou need nothing more than a pint or a glass of wine to make theperfect pub lunch.Whether it’s lamb shank, rabbit and crayfishor good old steak and kidney, we want to hear about the best pubpie you’ve eaten.Tell us about it now – here’s how:✴ Go to lulusnotes.com and click on ‘competitions’.✴ Nominate your favourite pub pie on the brief entry form.✴ If your pie makes it to the shortlist,we’ll request the recipe from

the pub and test it in the O test kitchen.O’s food team,M&S pie expert Matt Dawson and chefTom Kerridge will thendecide a winner.

✴The nominator of the winning pie will win the prizes (see right).✴The pub will win the honour of having anO magazine’s Best

Pub Pie award certificate to display behind the bar. If you work inor own a pub,you can also nominate your own pub’s pie and bein with the chance of winning the prizes as well as the award.

✴ Results will be published in our summer 2014 issue,out 23 May2014.Terms and conditions apply,see lulusnotes.com/competition

OBESTPUBPIESponsored by

THE PRIZESWIN! A leader in innovation and style,Kenwood’s ChefTitanium (£599.99)is a must-have kitchen companion forany budding chef, and can be put towork chopping, grating, slicing,whisking, kneading, mixing andblending.The all-metal body, controldial, head lift lever and high-gradestainless steel bowl tools bring strengthand durability, as well as style toyour kitchen.

PLUS! A £300 voucher to spend atTomKerridge’sThe Hand & Flowers(thehandandflowers.co.uk) in Marlow,Buckinghamshire.You could enjoya two-Michelin-starred meal andovernight stay in one of the stunningcottage suites nearby. The menuincludesTom’s signature glazed omeletteof smoked haddock and parmesan,treacle-cured chateaubriand ofLancashire beef withYorkshire pudding,and chocolate and ale cake with saltedcaramel and muscovado ice cream.

The promoter is Immediate Media Co.London Limited.To enter,you must beover 18 years of age and a resident of theUnited Kingdom.For full terms &conditions,see lulusnotes.com/competition

competition

MARCH 2014 O 23

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Lulu Sofa £599

Typical high street £1,355

Navy Lamp £99

Typical high street £237

Dhurries Rug £159

Typical high street £484

£30 WELCOME GIFT WITH CODE

MADELULU

UP TO 70% OFF HIGH STREET PRICES

GREAT DESIGN DIRECT FROM THE MAKERS

*£300 minimum spend.Offer does not include delivery or gift vouchers and cannot be used alongside other offers - ends 9 Mar 2014

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This month, Tom Kerridge provides plenty of ideas for Sundaylunches (and don’t forget Mother’s Day on 30 June). New

Orleans is our inspiration for food you’ll really want to spendtime cooking and eating, our stylish entertaining menu comesfrom new Italian restaurant, Café Murano, and there are 18

new recipes and ideas for what to do with seasonal ingredients.

Steak andale pudding(page 67)

Root beer glazed ham✴Brioche treacle tart ✴Game pie✴Salmon and hollandaise tart

✴Melting moments with blood orange curd ✴Herb-crusted lamb with lentils

eatinweekend

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ChefandownerofTheHand&Flowers,TomKerridge,sharessixexclusiverecipestoenjoywithfriendsandfamilyRecipesTOMKERRIDGE PhotographsLARAHOLMES

Sundaylunchclassics

26 O MARCH 2014

Herb-crusted lamb with lentils (page 28)

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eat in/weekend

MARCH 2014 O 27

Classic game pie (page 28)

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Game pie2 hours + cooling and chilling ■ Serves 8

■ A LITTLE EFFORT

This isagreatalternativetoporkpie-–use

amixofwhatevergamemeat isaround.Serve

inwedgeswithmustardorchutney.

egg 1,beatenwithasplashofmilk toglaze

gelatine 2leaves

game stockor chicken stock200ml

piccalilli or Cumberland sauce toserve

HOTWATERPASTRY

lard 100g,diced

butter 100g diced

plain flour550g

eggs2,beaten

FILLINGMIX

mixed gamee.g.:partridge,pheasant,

hareorvenison500g,diced

pork belly 125g,mincedorusegood

qualitypork mince

unsmoked streaky bacon 125g,diced

sage 10 leaves,chopped

cracked black pepper 1/2tsp

ground white pepper 1/2 tsp

ground nutmeg 1/2 tsp

crushed juniper berries 1/2 tsp

cayenne pepper 1/2 tsp

■ Makethehotwaterpastrybymeltingthe

lard,butterand200mlwatertogether.Mixthe

warmliquid, 1 1/2 tspsaltandtheeggsintothe

flourandbeatuntiladoughforms.Wrapin

clingfilmandleaveinthefridgefor1hour.

■ Putall thepiefilling ingredientswith 1/2 tsp

salt inabigbowl.Mixtogether.

■ Heattheovento180C/fan160C/gas4.Take

thepastryfromthefridge,cut 1/3 offandkeep

tooneside.Rolltheremaining2/3outintoa

circle,about5mmthick.Linean18cmcaketin

withthepastrythenfill itwiththepiemix.Roll

theremaining1/3 ofpastryoutintoacircleand

putontopofthepie,crimpingtheedges

together.Cutasmallholeintothetopofthe

pietoreleaseanysteamandputonabaking

trayintheovenfor1hourand15minutes.

■ Removefromtheovenandglazethetop

withthebeateneggandmilkmixthenreturn

totheovenandcookforafurther15minutes.

Removefromtheovenandleavetocool.

■ Tomakethe jelly, soakthegelatine in

wateruntil floppy.Heatthestock inasmall

panthenaddthesqueezedoutgelatine

leavesandstiruntilmelted.Pourthe jelly into

thepie.Chillovernightthenremovefromthe

caketinandserve.

■ PER SERVING 624 kcals, protein 33.7g , carbs

51.1g, fat 32g, sat fat 14.2g, fibre 3.1g, salt 2.2g

Pot-roast chicken withbacon, peas and lettuce1 hour 30 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY

This isagreatspringtimedish, fullof flavour

andarealnodtowarmertimesahead.The

lettuceandmintaddaveryclean, freshtaste

andpotroastingthechickenkeeps it tender.

chicken stock 350ml

white wine200ml

chicken 1 large

smoked streaky bacon200g,diced

butter 100g

frozen peas350g

little gem lettuce2, finelysliced

mint 1bunch,chopped

■ Heattheovento180C/fan160C/gas4. In

a largecasserolepan,bringthechickenstock

andwhitewineuptotheboil.Putthechicken

intothepotandputthe lidon.Putthepot

intotheovenandcookfor 1 1/2 hoursoruntil

thechicken iscooked(checkbypiercingthe

thickestpartof thethigh–the juicesshould

runclear).Removethechickenfromthepan

andkeepwarm.Putthepanbackonthehob,

addthedicedbaconandreducethecooking

liquordownoverahighheatbyabout 1/2 until

it reachesathickersauce-likeconsistency.

Gentlystir inthebutteruntil thesaucegoes

glossy.Addthepeasandheatthrough.

Finally, stir inthe lettuceandmintandwilt

downalittle.Blowtorchthechickenorslide

itunderahotgrill togivetheskina little

colourandservewiththepeasandgravy.

■ PER SERVING 829 kcals, protein 60.4g , carbs

10.7g, fat 57g, sat fat 25.4g, fibre 5.4g, salt 3.4g

MAKEAHEAD

MATCHGAME

PIEWITH

ROSE

COQUILLED’OC

Ripebramblefruit

and layersofspice

inDomaine Sainte

Rose Coquille

d’Oc, 2010, IGP

Pays d’Oc, 14%

(£7.49,Waitrose)

makeafinematch

forthisgamepie.

MATCH

POT-ROAST

CHICKENWITH

REDBURGUNDY

Matchthisdishwith

theredcurrantand

cherryfruitof

Henry Fessy

Coteaux

Bourguignons

2011, Burgundy,

France, 12.5%

(£8.99,M&S).

MATCH

HERB-

CRUSTED

LAMBWITH

REDRIOJA

Thecrushed

raspberryand

herbytones ina

goodRiojaarea

greatmatchwith

lamb.Trytheripe,

redfruitofViña

Eguía Rioja

Crianza 2009,

Spain, 13.5%

(£9.49,Majestic

Wine)withthisdish.

Herb-crusted lambwith lentils1 hour 10 minutes ■ Serves 4-6 ■ EASY

This isagreatdish, fullof flavourandperfect

foracolderspringday.Thecannonistheeye

meatfromalambloin. It’samoreexpensive

cutbutverysimpletocookandgives

beautifullypink, tender lamb.

fennel seeds 1 tbsp

dried herbes de Provence2tbsp

rapeseed oil 100ml

saddle of lamb 1,preppedinto2cannons

(approx.400geach)

Dijon mustard forglazing

malt vinegar toserve

LENTILS

onion 1,diced

oil forcooking

smoked streaky bacon 70g,cut intopieces

puy lentils 200g

dried herbes de Provence 2tbsp

white wine 175ml

chicken stock 700ml

HERBCRUST

lemon 1, zested

anchovy fillets 8,chopped

parsley 2tbsp,chopped

mint 1 tbsp,chopped

toasted and crushed croutons75g

■ Tomakethe lentils,cooktheonions ina

littleoiluntil soft.Addthebaconandstiruntil

it justbrownsandthefat isreleased.Add

the lentils, stir intheherbesdeProvenceand

cookfor2-3minutes.Addthewhitewineand

bringtotheboil.Simmeruntil thewinehas

reducedby 1/3 thenaddthechickenstockand

bringtotheboil.Turntheheatdowntoa low

simmerandcookfor30-40minutesuntil the

lentilsare justcookedbutyouhaveabitof

stock left thatwillactasgravy.Keepwarm.

■ Mixtogetherthefennelseeds,herbesde

Provenceandtherapeseedoil.Coverthe

lambcannons inthismixandcook inafrying

panwitha littleoil, turningoccasionallyuntil

mediumrare(about8-10minutesdepending

onthickness).Removefromthepanand

leavetorestunderfoil for8-10minutes.

Whiletheyareresting,mixtogetherthe

herbcrust ingredients.Brushthe lamb

fillets liberallywiththeDijonmustardthen

roll themallover intheherbcrust.Slice

thenservewiththe lentilsandseasonwith

maltvinegar.

■ PER SERVING 663 kcals, protein 37.9g , carbs

30.3g, fat 41.5g, sat fat 11.5g, fibre 4g, salt 1.7g

28 O MARCH 2014WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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Pot roast chickenwith bacon, peasand lettuce

eat in/weekend

MARCH 2014 O 29WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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Roast fennel-stuffedbream with fennelseed and orange oil(page 32)

30 O MARCH 2014WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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Slow roast porkbelly with blackpudding mashand grain mustardsauce (page 32)

eat in/weekend

MARCH 2014 O 31WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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MATCHSLOW

ROASTPORK

BELLYWITH

PICSAINT-LOUP

Therichflavours in

thisdishare

matchedbythe

robust fruitand

spiceofTaste the

Difference Pic

Saint-Loup 2011,

Languedoc,

France, 13.5%

(£9.99,Sainsbury’s).

Slow-roast pork belly withblack pudding mash andgrain mustard sauce3 hours 5 minutes + overnight brining

■ Serves 4 ■ EASY

Thisdishtakesa littletimebutreally is

worthdoing.Thebrinemakestheporktaste

amazingandhelpsthecracklingalong.The

mashis incredibly luxuriousandthesauce

cutsthroughtherichnessofthedish.

pork belly 1.5kgpiece

onions 2, finelydiced

good ale 200ml

chicken stock500ml

wholegrain mustard2tbsp

English mustard 1 tbsp

BRINE

salt 200g

demerara sugar 150g

black peppercorns 1 tbsp

cloves 2

bay leaf 1

thyme asprig

MASH

potatoes4large

milk 100ml

double cream 100ml

butter 100g

black pudding 200g,diced

■ Bringallofthebrineingredientswith1 litre

ofwateruptotheboilandmakesureallofthe

sugarandsalthasdissolved.Letthebrinego

cold.Puttheporkbellyintoaplasticcontainer

orceramicdishandpouroverthebrine.Put

alidonandputintothefridgefor24hours.

■ Heattheovento150C/fan130C/gas2.Put

theporkbellyontoarackthenontoabaking

tray.Patdrywithkitchenrollandroast inthe

ovenfor21/2-3hoursuntil crispandgolden.

Give itablastofheatattheendifyouneed

tohelpthecrackling.

■ Whiletheporkiscooking,bakethe

potatoesuntilcooked.Scoopallofthepotato

fromtheskinandputitthroughapotatoricer.

Bringthemilk,creamandbutteruptotheboil

andaddittothepotatotogetacreamy

consistency. Inapan,frytheblackpudding

withalittleoiluntilcrispthenfoldintothe

mashedpotato.Seasonandkeepwarm.

■ Frydowntheonions inapanuntil soft.

Addthealeandreducedowntoaglazeover

ahighheat.Addthechickenstockand

reducedownagainuntil sauceconsistency.

Takethesaucefromtheheatandthenwhisk

inthetwomustards.Servewiththepork

andmash.

■ PER SERVING 1381 kcals, protein 76g , carbs

49g, fat 97.2g, sat fat 43.2g, fibre 5.9g, salt 3.6g

Roast fennel-stuffedbream with fennelseed and orange oil45 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY

This isaverysimplebutstunningdish.

Cookedandservedwhole, thefish lookreally

impressive.Buythefreshestfishyoucanand

askthefishmongerforsmallishbream–you

wantone-per-personsize. Ifyoucanonlyget

largebream,serve1between2peopleand

cookforabit longer.

gilt-head bream 2,wholebutgutted,scaled

andtrimmedoffins

oranges2

fennel 2smallbulbs

dill 1/2 bunch

capers 2tbsp

rapeseed oil

fennel seeds 1 tbsp

flaky sea salt forseasoning

■ Heattheovento180C/fan160C/gas4.

Onabakingtray, layoutasheetof foiland

drizzle itwithsomerapeseedoil.Thinlyslice

thefennel (onamandolin ifpossible)and

puta layerof itonthefoil.Sliceoneofthe

orangesandputtheslicesontopofthe

fennelandsprinkleonthecapers.Putthe

fishontopandstuff inabitof thefenneland

orange intothegutcavity.Drizzleona little

morerapeseedoilandseasonwithseasalt.

Putasecondlayerof foiloverthetopand

seal thefishupas if inaparcel.Putthetray

intotheovenatandbakefor25minutesor

until cookedthrough.

■ Whilethefish is intheoven, finelyzestand

juicetheotherorange.Putthe juiceandzest

inabowlandadd3tbspoftherapeseedoil

andfennelseeds.Finelychopthedillandmix

together intothedressing.

■ Removethefishfromtheovenandput

ontoaservingplate.Addsomeofthecooked

fennelanddressthewholefishwiththe

orangeandfennelseeddressing.

■ PER SERVING 421 kcals, protein 38.3g , carbs

10g, fat 26.5g, sat fat 1.3g, fibre 5.1g, salt 1.5g

Brioche treacle tart50 minutes plus chilling ■ Serves 6-8

■ EASY

Briochemakesaricherversionofthis

Britishclassic.

plain flour225g

butter 110g

caster sugar 40g

egg 1 small,beaten

FILLING

golden syrup 450g

brioche 90gwhizzedtomakebreadcrumbs

inafoodprocessor

ground mace 1/2 tsp

ground nutmeg 1/2 tsp

lemon 1, zested

■ Inafoodmixer,whizztheflour,sugarand

butterandbringtogetheruntil it looks like

breadcrumbs.Addenougheggtobring

togethertoformapastry.Removeandchill

forat least 1hourbeforeusing.

■ Heattheovento190C/fan170C/gas5.

Linea20cmtartringortart tinwiththe

sweetpastry.Fillwithbakingpaperand

bakingbeansandbakeblindfor 10minutes.

Takeoutthebeansandpaperandcookfor

another5minutes.

■ Inamixingbowl,stirall thefiling

ingredientstogetherthenpour intothetart

case.Putthetartback intotheovenand

bakeforafurther25minutes.Removefrom

theovenandleavetocool.Servesliceswith

adollopofcrèmefraîche.

■ PER SERVING 437 kcals, protein 4.4g , carbs

74g, fat 14.2g, sat fat 8.2g, fibre 1.3gg, salt 0.7g

MAKEAHEAD

MATCH

ROAST

FENNEL-

STUFFEDBREAM

WITHFIANO

Surani Pietrariccia

Fiano 2012,

Puglia, Italy,

13.5% (£9.49,

MajesticWine)

has itsowncitrus

andherbalnotes

tochimeperfectly

withthis fennel-

flavouredfish.

MATCH

BRIOCHE

TREACLE

TARTWITHCROIX

MILHAS

RIVESALTES

AMBRE

Balancethe

sweetnessofthis

tartwiththespiced

gingerbreadandfig

flavoursofCroix

Milhas Rivesaltes

Ambré NV,

Languedoc-

Roussillon, France,

16% (£7.49for

37.5cl,Tesco).

32 O MARCH 2014

Subscribe toO thismonth and you’ll receiveTom Kerridge’s book. Seepage 63. PLUS! For yourchance to win a meal at TomKerridge’s pub The Hand &Flowers, see our pub piecompetition on page 23.

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Page 33: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Brioche treacle tart

eat in/weekend

MARCH 2014 O 33WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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Page 34: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

A weekend to savourJersey bursts with places to enjoy a superb meal or a perfect pint. Michelin-starred places,

where the oysters are so fresh, you can still taste the sea. Coastal places, where gastropubs

and trendy cafés serve crab sandwiches so full, you’ll need the miles of breathtaking beaches

to walk them off! Country places deep in the island’s lush interior, where cosy inns serving

fresh-from-the-field produce are tucked away. And stylish places where, after a day

exploring, you can simply relax and enjoy a soothing spa treatment. Add a mild climate,

easy travel by air or sea from the UK and great-value offers, and you’ve discovered Jersey.

jersey.com

*Return price per person, including taxes, with easyJet from Gatwick. Price correct at time of print.

Flights

£from

56rtn*

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Page 35: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Thelaid-backstyleofNewOrleans’ foodmeansgenerousportions, relaxedserviceandplentyofbooze.TheserecipeswillgiveyourguestsatasteoftheBigEasy– impressthemLouisianastyle

RecipesJANINERATCLIFFE PhotographsPETERCASSIDY

eat in/weekend

MARCH 2014 O 35

ST

YLIN

G:P

OLLY

WE

BB

-WIL

SO

N.F

OO

DST

YLIN

G:J

EN

NIF

ER

JO

YC

E

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Crawfish étouffée (page 40)

36 O MARCH 2014WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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Roast beef po’ boy (page 40)

eat in/weekend

MARCH 2014 O 37WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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Page 38: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Sazerac5 minutes ■ Makes 1 ■ A LITTLE EFFORT

There’saritual tomakingthisdrinkbutyou

don’tneedanyfancyequipment- just2

glasses.AntoinePeychaudcreatedhisown

bitters inthe1800sandthey’rewhatgivethe

Sazerac itsdistinctiveflavour.Youcanbuy

themfromspecialistdrinkshopsoronline

atthedrinkshop.com

sugar cube 1

rye whiskey50ml

Peychaud bitters 2dashes

absinthe5ml

lemonatwistofpeel

■ Putthesugar intoanoldfashionedglass.

Addthebittersandmuddlethesugarcube

usinga littlewater ifneeded.Tip inthe

whiskeyandfill theglasswith ice.Stiruntil

thesugarhasdisolvedandthewhiskeyhas

beendilutedtoyourtaste.

■ Addtheabsinthetotheotherglassand

swirl tocoatthe insidethentipawaythe

excess.Strainthewhiskeymix intothe

absinthe-coatedglass, twist the lemonpeel

overanddrop it intoserve.

38 O MARCH 2014WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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Page 39: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Root beer-glazed ham(page 40)

MARCH 2014 O 39

eat in/weekend

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Page 40: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Crawfish étouffée55 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY

Étouffée(roughlytranslatingas ‘smothered’)

isadishthatfeatures inbothCajunandCreole

cookingandcrawfish(orcrayfish) isoneofthe

mostpopularversions.Thesaucestartswith

aflour-basedroux–besuretocookthisuntil

it’sgoldenas itaddstotherichflavourof

thesauce.

unsalted butter75g

plain flour2tbsp

onion 1,diced

celery 1 stick,diced

green pepper 1,diced

garlic 2cloves,sliced

plum tomatoes4,diced

vegetable stock 400ml

bay leaves2

peeled crayfish tails300g(lookforthe

BigPrawnCompanyinsupermarkets)

flat-leaf parsleyasmallbunch,chopped

spring onions 4,sliced

lemonagoodsqueezeof juice

cooked rice toserve

SEASONINGMIX

dried oregano 1 tsp

dried thyme 1 tsp

garlic granules 2tsp

cayenne pepper 1 tsp

paprika 2tsp

ground black pepper 1 tsp

■ Mixtheseasoning ingredientstogether.

Melt thebutter inapan,addtheflourand

cook,stirringforabout5minutesoruntil

theflourturnsarichgoldencolour.Addthe

onion,celery,pepperandgarlicandkeep

cookingforanother 10minutesuntil

softened.Addtheseasoning,mixandcook

foraminutethenaddthetomatoes,stock

andbay leaves.Simmerfor30minutes.

■ Addthecrawfishandparsleyandcook

until justheatedthrough.Serveover

steamedriceanddresswiththespring

onionsandasqueezeof lemonjuice.

■ PER SERVING 280 kcals, protein 15.2g, carbs

17.6g, fat 17.1g. sat fat 9.9g, fibre 4.8g, salt 0.6g

MATCHCRAWFISHÉTOUFFÉE

WITHPINOTNOIR

Pair theflavours inthisCajunspicedfish

stewwiththesoft fruitand lightherbalnotes

in Taste the Difference Pinot Noir 2012,

Chile, 14% (£7.99,Sainsbury’s).

Roast beef po’ boy3 hours 40 minutes + resting

■ Serves 8 ■ EASY

Po’boysandwichescomestuffedtothebrim

withallkindsoffillings;shrimp,oyster,crawfish

andinthiscase,slow-cookedbeef ingravy.

There isnopolitewayofeatingthese,somake

surethereareplentyofnapkinsonhand.

beef topside 1kgpiece

garlic4cloves,cut intoslivers

cayenne pepper 1 tsp

oil

beef stock500ml

carrot 1,quartered

celery 1 stick,quartered

onion 1,quartered

black peppercorns 6

bay leaves 2

cornflour 1 tbsp

TOSERVE

baguette8longpieces

mayonnaise

tomato slices

gherkin slices

shredded gem lettuce

Tabasco sauce

■ Heattheovento150C/fan130C/gas2.

Make incisionsalloverthebeefwithasmall

sharpknifeand insert thesliversofgarlic.

Seasonwithsalt,pepperandthecayenne.

Heata largefryingpanwitha littleoil then

brownthebeefreallywellallover.Spendabit

oftimegettingagoodcolourasthiswillall

addtotheoverallflavorofthebeefandgravy.

■ Lift thebeef intoa largecasseroledish

witha lid.Addthestock,veg,peppercorns

andbay leavesthencoverwiththe lid,

slippingasheetof foilunderneathsoyouget

areallygoodseal.Cookfor3hours.

■ Carefully takethebeefoutofthepotand

restunderfoil forat leastanhourtomake it

easiertoslice.Takeouttheveganddiscard.

Putthecasserolebackontheheatand

reducethegravybyhalf.Stir thecornflour

with 1 tbspwaterthenaddtothegravyand

whiskwhilstsimmeringuntil thickened.

■ Slicethebeefandtipany juicesandbits

that falloffback intothegravy.Addtheslices

backtothegravytowarmthrough.

■ Halvethebaguettesbutdon’tcutall the

waythrough.Put ina200C/fan180C/gas6

ovenfor5minutestocrispup.

■ Spreadthebottomofthebreadwith

mayo,adda layerofmeatandgravythen

topwithtomato,gherkinandshredded

lettuce.AddadashofTabascothendig in.

■ PER SERVING 219 kcals, protein 29.2g, carbs

4.5g, fat 9.4g. sat fat 3.5g, fibre 1.3g, salt 0.3g

Root beer glazed ham2 hours 10 minutes ■ Serves 6 ■ EASY

Mother’srestaurant inNewOrleans

(mothersrestaurant.net) is famousfor its

bakedham.Therecipe istopsecret,but

theglaze isrumouredto includerootbeer.

This isourversion.

smoked boneless gammon hamabout2.5kg

onion 1 small,peeledandstuddedwithcloves

ROOTBEERGLAZE

root beer 300ml

Tabasco chipotle sauce afewgooddashes

ground cloves 1/2 tsp

mustard powder2tsp

brown sugar 6tbsp

■ Makeanoteoftheweightofthegammon

andcalculatethecookingtimefor40

minutesperkilo.Putthegammonina large

panofwater,bringuptoasimmerandskim

anyimpuritiesfromthesurface.Addthe

onionandleavetosimmerfortherequired

cookingtime(soa2.5kggammonwill take

1hour40minutes).

■ Whilethehamiscooking,puttheglaze

ingredients inapanandsimmeruntil

thickenedandsyrupyenoughtobrushover

theham.

■ Heattheovento180C/fan160C/gas4.

Aftersimmering, let thehamrestuntil cool

enoughtohandlethen, removetheskin

leavinga layerof fat.Scorethefat lightly

makingsureyoudon’tgo intotheflesh.Sit

thehamonarack inaroastingtinandbrush

alloverwiththeglaze.Bakefor40-45

minutes,brushingmoreglazeonas itbakes

until it isadarkgoldenbrown.

■ PER SERVING 634 kcals, protein 61.6g, carbs

19.1g, fat 32.6g. sat fat 10.8g, fibre 0.2g, salt 7.9g

MATCHROOTBEER-GLAZED

HAMWITHRIESLING

Thisdeliciouscombinationofsaltyham

andsweetspicyglazeneedsthebalanced

fruitandzestof Dr. Hermann Erdener

Treppchen Riesling Kabinett 2007, Mosel,

Germany, 7.5% (£9.99,MajesticWine).

40 O MARCH 2014

MATCH

ROASTBEEF

PO’BOY

WITHMALBEC

Therichmeaty

flavours inapo’boy

areenhancedby

theripe, redfruits

inaglassof

Argentinian

Malbec 2012,

Mendoza, 14%

(£8.49,Waitrose).

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Page 41: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Sugar-dusted beignets30 minutes ■ Makes about 30 ■ EASY

ThesedeepfrieddoughsquaresareaFrench

Quarterfavourite, liberallydustedwith

powderedsugarandservedwithcaféaulait.

Overnightprovingofthedoughinthefridge

makes itmucheasiertoworkwith.

golden caster sugar 55g

salt 1/2 tsp

egg 1 large

butter 30g,atroomtemperature

evaporated milk 120ml

strong white flour600g

fast action yeast 3tsp

TOSERVE

icing sugar

■ Putall the ingredientsplus240mlwarm

water in

afoodprocessorand

pulseuntilyouhave

asmoothdough.

Thedoughwillbe

quitewetbutdon’t

worry, itwill firmup

overnight.Tip it intoan

oiledbowl,coverwith

clingfilmandchillovernight.

■ Thenextday, tip itoutontoa lightly

flouredsurface.Divide it into2androlleach

pieceoutuntil just lessthan1cmthick.Use

asharpknifeorserratedcuttertocut into

squaresabout6cm.

■ Heatoil inapanto180Coruntilacube

ofbreadbrowns in30seconds.Frythe

beignets inbatchesfor2-3minuteseach

sideuntilpuffedandgolden-brown.Keep

thecookedoneswarmintheovenif

you like.Dustheavilywith icing

sugarbeforeserving.

■ PERSERVING119kcals,

protein2.7g,carbs

17g,fat4.6g,satfat

1.2g,fibre0.8g,

salt 0.1g

MATCHBEIGNETS

WITHMARSALA

Packedwithflavours

of figs,nutsandbaked

apples,Martinez

Marsala Superiore

Riserva Dolce 5 year

old, 18% (£6.49/37.5cl,

M&S) isamatchfor

thesesugarytreats.

MARCH 2014 O 41

eat in/weekend

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Page 42: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Louisiana bourbonbread pudding55 minutes + soaking ■ Serves 6 ■ EASY

BreadpuddingisaNewOrleansstaplewith

mostrestaurantsservingaversionofit.

It’s likeourbreadandbutterpudding,and

it’susuallyservedwitha‘hard’boozysauce.

flame raisins 100g

bourbon6tbsp

baguette 1/2,about200g

milk 300ml

double cream300ml

butter25g,melted

caster sugar 4tbsp

eggs3large

ground allspice 1/2 tsp

cinnamon 1/2 tsp

vanilla extract 1 tsp

vanilla ice-cream toserve

BOURBONBUTTERSCOTCHSAUCE

dark muscovado sugar 100g

double cream 100ml

butter50g

bourbon 2-3tbsp

■ Puttheraisinsandbourboninasmallpan

andsimmergently for5minutesthenturn

off theheat.Coverand leavetheraisinsto

soakforanhourorso.

■ Beatthemilk,cream,meltedbutter,sugar,

eggs,spicesandvanilla together.Stir inthe

soakedraisinsand liquid.

■ Heattheovento160C/fan140C/gas3.Cut

thebaguette intosmallchunksandput inthe

bottomofawell-butteredshallow-ishbaking

dish.Pouroverthecustardmixandleave

tosoakfor30minutes, thenbakefor45

minutesuntilpuffedandgolden.

■ Tomakethesauce,putthedark

muscovadosugar,doublecreamandbutter

inapan.Bringtoasimmerthencookfor3-4

minutes.Addthebourbonthencookfor

anotherminute.

■ Serveasliceofthebreadpuddingtopped

withascoopof ice-creamandsomesauce

spoonedover.

■ PER SERVING 785 kcals, protein 8.8g, carbs

62.2g, fat 50.6g. sat fat 30.2g, fibre 1.6g, salt 0.7g

MATCHBOURBONBREAD

PUDDINGWITHMOSCATEL

Trythefreshgrapeandorangepeel

flavoursofMoscatel de Valencia, Spain,

15% (£4.89,Tesco)withthisdessertbut

remember,sweetwinesdon’t justgowith

puddings, theyaregoodwithcheeseand

arealsoexcellentontheirown.

42 O MARCH 2014

eat in/weekend

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Yo u r p e r s o n a l H o l i d a y I n f o r m a t i o n L i n e :0 8 4 5 1 0 1 1 8 1 8 ( c a l l s c h a r g e d a t l o c a l r a t e s )

You can learn something

from the people here,

deliberately taking time

to enjoy the moment.

w w w . a u s t r i a . i n f o

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44 O MARCH 2014

WHAT’SINSEASON

MarchThismonth,makeacrowd-pleasingtart,aclassic leeksoup,addanewspinachsidedishtoyourrepertoirewithsalmonandusegoat’scheeseandspringonions inanewway.Plus, twoextra ideasforeachingredientRecipesLULUGRIMES PhotographsPHILIPWEBB

Leek and potato soupwith frizzled leeks (page 46)

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MARCH 2014 O 45

eat in/weekend

Salmon and hollandaise tart(page 46)

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Leek and potato soupwith frizzled leeks30 minutes ■ Serves 6 ■ EASY

Thegreenendsof leekscanbevery long,

sotrimoffthestragglydarkestbitsanduse

theminstock ifyouaremaking it.Theywill

keepinthefreezeruntilyouneedthem.

butter

oil

leeks600g, trimmedandveryfinelysliced

potatoes3medium,peeledandchopped

vegetable or chicken stock 1.5 litres

single cream 150ml

■ Meltaknobofbutter ina largepanwith

a littleoil,addall the leekexceptahandful

andstir.Cookgentlyuntil the leek isverysoft,

thiswill takeabout 10minutes.Addthe

potatoes,seasonwell thenaddthestockand

bringtoasimmerandcookuntil thepotato

issoft.Whizzeverythingwithablenderuntil

smooth.Addthecreamandseasonagain if

itneeds it. If thesoupisverythick, let itdown

witha littlewater,stockormilk.Keepwarm.

■ Heat 1cmoil inasmallpan,addthe

remaining leekandcookuntil it frizzles.Lift

outanddrain.Servethesoupandaddsome

frizzled leektothetop.

■ PER SERVING 167 kcals, protein 11.3g, carbs

15.7g, fat 6.8g. sat fat 3.9g, fibre 5.4g, salt 0.8g

Salmon andhollandaise tart40 minutes ■ Serves 4 as a main ■ EASY

Hot-smokedsalmoniswidelyavailablenow,

but ifyouprefer,youcanmakethisusingthe

sameamountofpoachedsalmon.

shortcrust pastry 350g

hot-smoked salmon300g

baby (nonpareille) capers2tbsp,drained

HOLLANDAISE

unsalted butter250g

egg yolks 4

tarragon white wine vinegar 1 tsp

lemon 1

tarragon 1bunch, leavesfinelychopped

■ Heattheovento190C/fan170C/gas5.Roll

outand linea20-21cmtart tinwithpastry.

Prickthetartwithaforkand line itwith

bakingparchmentandbakingbeans.Bake

blindfor 15minutesandthenremovethe

paperandbakeforanother 10minutestodry

outthebaseandcookthepastrythrough.

■ Breakupthesalmon,put it inthetartcase,

andsprinkleoverhalfof thecapers.

■ Melt thebutterandskimoff thewhite

foam.Whisktheeggyolksandvinegar in

aglassbowl,set itabove(butnottouching)

apanofsimmeringwaterandwhiskuntil the

mixturethickens.Takethebowloff theheat

andgraduallywhisk inthebutteraknobat

atime,until thehollandaise is thickand

creamy.Seasonwithasqueezeof lemon

juice,somesaltandpepperandadd

asplashofwatertomakeaspoonable

consistency.Stir inmostofthetarragon

andspoonthisoverthesalmoninthetart.

Putany leftover intoa jugtoserveonthe

side.Finishwiththeremainingtarragon

andcapers.

■ PER SERVING 786kcals, protein 26.2g, carbs

39.4g, fat 59g. sat fat 26.9g, fibre 2.4g, salt 4.8g

Melting momentswith blood orange curd40 minutes + cooling ■ Makes 20 ■ EASY

Bloodorangesvary in intensityofcolour,

someareveryred,othersmainlyorange

withafewflecks.Thiswillaffectthecolour

ofthecurd.

butter250g,verysoft

icing sugar50g

plain flour250g

custard powder50g

ORANGECURD

blood oranges2,bothzestedand1 juiced

golden caster sugar40g

unsalted butter40g,chopped

intosmallcubes

egg yolk 1

mascarpone 100g

■ Heattheovento190C/gas170C/gas5

andlineabakingsheetwithbaking

parchment.Putthebutter, icingsugar, flour

andcustardpowder inafoodprocessorand

whizztoasoftdough.Spoonintoapiping

bagwitharoundnozzle.

■ Pipesmall roundbiscuitsabout4cmwide

outonthebakingsheetsandpressdownon

eachwithawetfingertogetridofanypeaks,

oruseawetforktomakestripes.Bakefor

15-20minutesoruntil firmtothetouch.

Leavetocoolcompletely.

■ Putthe juiceandzest inasaucepanand

bringtotheboil, reducebyhalfandthenmix

inthecastersugarandbutterand let the

buttermelt.Cool forafewminutesthen

graduallymix intheeggyolk.Stirovera low

heatfor 10minutesuntil themixture

thickens,beingcarefulnotto let itboil.Cool

completelyandfold inthemascarpone.

■ Sandwichtwobiscuits togetherwiththe

filling.Eatthesewithinthedayastheywill

softenovertimeor leavethemunfilleduntil

youneedthem.

■ PER SERVING 189 kcals, protein 1.7g, carbs

16.3g, fat 13.1g. sat fat 8.3g, fibre 0.5g, salt 0.2g

MATCHLEEKANDPOTATOSOUP

WITHCHARDONNAY

Withcrisp, tropical fruitandarounded

butterystyleMontgravet Chardonnay 2012

Vin de France, 12% (£5.99,Waitrose)

partnersthiscreamysoup,andtheheat

inthe leekchilli squeakonp50perfectly.

MATCHSALMONANDHOLLANDAISE

TARTWITHGODELLO

Perfectwithallkindsof fish,Montenovo

Godello 2012, Valdesil, Valdeorras, Spain,

13.5% (£11.99,or£9.99whenyoubuy2,

Majestic)hasripepearandpineapplefruit

witharounded,silkytexture.

MATCHMELTINGMOMENTSWITH

ORANGEMUSCAT

Therichpeachandorangefruit in

Andrew Quady Essensia Orange Muscat

2012, California, 15% (£12.49/37.5cl,

Majestic) isaperfectmatchforbloodorange.

46 O MARCH 2014

ST

YLIN

G:L

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YH

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DST

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MARCH 2014 O 47

eat in/weekend

Melting moments withblood orange curd

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Spring onion andprawn empanadas1 hour ■ Makes 8 ■ EASY

Thespringonionsforthisshouldbe

adecentsize– if they lookabitweedy

use1 1/2 bunches.

spring onions 1bunch

olive oil

red chilli 1, finelydiced

garlic 1clove,crushed

raw peeled prawns350g,roughlychopped

feta75g,crumbled

EMPANADADOUGH

butter 15g,coldandcut intocubes

plain flour250g

egg 1, separated

white wine vinegar 1/2 tsp

■ Tomakethedough,rubthebutterintothe

flourandthenaddtheeggwhiteandhalfthe

yolk(keeptherest),vinegar,apinchofsaltand

enoughcoldwatertomakeasoftdough.

Kneadonaflouredsurfaceuntilsmoothand

thenwrapandrestfor30minutes.

■ Heattheovento180C/fan160C/gas4.

Trimthegreenendsofthespringonionsand

thenfinelyslicetherest.Heata littleoil ina

panandfrythemgentlyuntil softbutnot

browned.Addthechilliandgarlic, stirand

thenaddtheprawnsandcookuntil theyare

opaque.Seasonwell.Scoopouttheprawns

andbubblethe juicesuntil theythicken, then

addbacktheprawns.

■ Dividetheempanadadoughintoeight

ballsandrollouttothincirclesonafloured

surface.Putsomefillingononehalfof the

dough,sprinklethefetaontopandfoldthe

otherhalfover.Trimtheedgeandthenfold

andcrimpthedoughtogethersothe

empanada istightlysealed,put itonanoiled

bakingsheeteitheron itssideorsittingonits

un-crimpededge likeaCornishpasty.Repeat

withtheremainingdoughandmixture.Mix

the leftovereggyolkwithasplashofwater

andbrushthetopoftheempanadas.

■ Bakefor30minutesoruntilgoldenand

slightlycrisparoundtheedges.

■ PER SERVING 190 kcals, protein 13g, carbs

23.7g, fat 4.9g. sat fat 2.5g, fibre 1.6g, salt 0.7g

Dukkah goat’s cheesewith homemade flatbread30 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY

Dukkah(whichmeanstopound) isadrydip

originating inEgyptwherebreadisdippedfirst

intooliveoilandthenintothedipso itsticks.

It isalsoveryuseful forsprinklingonsteamed

orroastvegtomakeitmore interesting.

soft goat’s cheese 1 log,about 125g

olive oil

DUKKAH

blanched hazelnuts 100g

sesame seeds75g

coriander seeds2tbsp

cumin seeds 1 tbsp

sea salt flakes 1 tsp

FLATBREAD

plain flour250g

olive oil4tbsp

■ Tomaketheflatbread,mixtheflourwith

theoiland100mlwarmwaterthenmixand

MATCH

GOAT’S

CHEESE

WITHSAUVIGNON

Packedwith lemon,

limeandfragrant

withelderflower

flavours

Helderberg Winery

Sauvignon Blanc

2013, South

Africa, 13% (£9.99,

M&S)canmatch

thisgoat’scheese

insavouryand

sweetdishesalike.

kneadtomakeasoft,pliabledough.Cover

andrest for 15minutes.

■ Meanwhile,makethedukkahbytoasting

thehazelnutsfollowedbythesesameseeds

inahotfryingpan.Coolandthentipthem

intoafoodprocessor,addthecoriander,

cuminseedsandsaltandwhizzuntil roughly

ground,beingcarefulnottomakeapaste.

(Youwillonlyneedhalfsostoretherest in

anairtightcontainer inthefridge).

■ Dividethedoughinto6piecesandroll

eachoneouttothethicknessofa£1coin.

Heatafryingpanandcooktheflatbreads

for2-3minutesoneachsideuntil theyare

brownedandslightlypuffy.Keepwarm.

■ Cutthegoat’scheese into4pieces,dip

themintotheoilandthengentlycoverthem

inthedukkah,pressing it inallover.Halve

theflatbreadsandservethemwiththe

dukkah-coveredgoat’scheese.

■ PER SERVING 738 kcals, protein 20.2g, carbs

49.2g, fat 51.4g. sat fat 10.6g, fibre 8.6g, salt 1.8g

48 O MARCH 2014

MATCHEMPANADASWITH

VERNACCIADISANGIMIGNANO

Matchthespringonion intheparcels

andpancakesonp39withthecrispgreen

appleandalmondnotes inWinemakers’

Selection Vernaccia di San Gimignano

DOCG 2012, Tuscany, Italy, 12.5%

(£6.99,Sainsbury’s).

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Spring onion andprawn empanadas

eat in/weekend

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SPRINGONIONSTWO MORE IDEAS:

Spring onionpancakes■ Serves 4

Sift 150gplain flour intoabowl,add30ml

oilandenoughcold water tomakeasoft

dough.Rest for30minutes.Finelychop

thewhiteof2spring onions.Dividethe

doughinto6,rolloutonanoiledsurface

andsprinklethespringonionover.Fold

intoquarters,oil theoutsideofeach

pancakeandfryfor2-3minutesoneach

sideuntilbrowned.

Spring onion salad dressing■ Serves 4

Mix2tbspred wine vinegarwith2finely

choppedspring onions.Whisk ina little

Dijon mustardplusapinchofsugarand

thenenougholive oil tomakeathick

dressing.Seasonwell.Leavetosit for20

minutessothespringonionflavorcan

permeatethedressing.

SPINACHTWO MORE IDEAS:

Spinach andpotato curry■ Serves 2

Fryachoppedonion in

1 tbspoiland1-2tbspofyourfavourite Indian

currypaste.Add1 largepeeledandchopped

potato,2-3chopped tomatoesandasplash

ofwater andcookeverythingwiththe lidon

until thepotato issoft.Addacoupleof

handfulsofspinach, apinchofgaram

masalaandstir throughuntilwilted.Season

andservewithadollopofyoghurt.

Creamed spinach■ Serves 2

Wiltabagofspinach (cutoutanytough

stalksfirst) insimmeringwater,drainwell

andsqueezedry.Chopfinely,stir in2-4tbsp

double creamandseasonwellwithsalt,

pepper andnutmeg.

LEEKSTWO MORE IDEAS:

Leek andchilli squeak■ Serves 2

Chopleftovercooked

leeks,orsimmertwochoppedleeksuntil

tender.Heatsomeoil inapanandaddthe

leekplusapinchofchilli flakesandplenty

ofseasoning.Add4cookedandroughly

choppedpotatoesandmix.Patdownand

fryuntilthebaseisbrowned,turnsections

overandkeepfryinguntilthewholemixture

isfleckedwithbrown.Letthebasebrownone

lasttimeandthenserve.

Braised leeks■ Serves 4

Fit4-8 leekssnugly inabakingdish.Mix3

tbspwhite winewith200mlchicken stock

andafinelychoppedshallotandspoonthis

over.Seasonwell, coverwithfoilandbake in

a180C/fan160C/gas4ovenfor40minutes

oruntil theyfeel tenderwhenyoupokea

knifeblade in.Lift the leeksoutandadda

splashofvinegar tothesaucetomakeit

tastemore likeadressing.Pour itback

overandserveatroomtemperature.

SALMONTWO MORE IDEAS:

Sesamesalmon withbroccoli■ Serves 2

Tipsomesesameseedsontoaplate,add

someseasoningandapinchofcayenne

pepperandpresstwopiecesofsalmon

fillettopsidedownintotheseeds.Putskin

sidedownonalightlyoiledbakingsheetand

grilluntilthesalmoniscookedthroughand

thesesamebrowns.Stir-frysomepurple

sproutingbroccoli inalittleoiluntil it istender

andtheedgesbrowned,seasonandserve.

Salmon wraps■ Serves 2

Brusha largesalmon filletwithoilandgrill

until cookedthrough.Break into largeflakes,

add 1/2choppedavocado,halvedcherry

tomatoesandsome lemon zestand juice.

Layontothecentreof2wraps, adda

spoonfulofmayonnaiseandsomesriracha

chilli sauce, rollupandhalvetoserve.

BLOODORANGETWO MORE IDEAS:

Blood orangeCamparispritz

■ Serves 2

Cut2curlsofzest from2orangesusing

apotatopeeler, juicetheorangesand

dividethe juicebetweentwowinegoblets

orhighballglasses.Addahandfulof ice

cubestoeachfollowedbyameasureof

Campari.Topuptheglasseswithprosecco

anddropacurlofzest intoeach,stircarefully.

Blood orange jelly■ Serves 4

Juice10bloodorangesandtipthejuiceintoa

jug.Soak2sheetsofgelatin incoldwateruntil

floppy.Heat2tbspofthejuiceinasmall

saucepanandaddthedrainedgelatin.Turnoff

theheatandswirlthepan,thegelatinshould

meltalmostimmediately,stir it intotherestof

thejuiceanddivideitbetween4smallglasses.

Setinthefridge.Softlywhipsomecreamwith

alittle icingsugarandagratingoforange

zest,spoonalittleontoeachjellytoserve.

GOAT’SCHEESETWO MORE IDEAS:

Whippedgoat’s cheesedip

■ Serves 4

Puta logofsoftgoat’s cheese inabowlwith

4tbspsoft cheeseand4tbspcrème fraîche

andbeatwithelectricwhiskuntil creamyand

smooth.Season,beatagainandservewith

toastedflat bread, spoonedoverroast veg

orwithraw vegasadip.

Goat’s cheese andpear tartines■ Serves 4

Lightlytoast4slicesofsourdough.Beata

smallsoft goat’s cheesewith2tbspdouble

cream, spreadonthetoastrightuptothe

edgesandseason.Sliceapearandtrimout

thecore(leavetheskinon ifyou like).Lay

thepearslicesontopandsprinkleona little

sugar (anykind).Grilluntil thesugarstarts

tomeltandsprinklewithafewdropsofred

wine vinegar toserve.

50 O MARCH 2014

PH

OTO

GR

AP

HS

:ALA

MY

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Spinach andjalapeño madeleine1 hour 10 minutes ■ Serves 6

as a side ■ EASY

TheJuniorLeagueofBatonRougein

Louisiana,agroupofwomenpromoting

volunteerism,hasawonderfulrecipebook

calledRiverRoadRecipes, this isan

adaptationoftheirspinachmadeleinerecipe.

Eat itasasidedishoramaindish.Youcan

findthebookhere: juniorleaguebr.org

butter3tbsp

onion 1, finelychopped

garlic 1clove,crushed

plain flour2tbsp

celery salt 1/2 tsp

smoked paprika 1/2 tsp

mascarpone 150g

spinach500g,washed

andstalksremoved

cheddar 150g,grated

jalapeño peppers 1-2tbspfrom

ajar,chopped

bread 2slices,chopped

■ Heatovento190C/170Cfan/gas5.Melt

thebutter inapan,addtheonionandfry

gentlyuntil softbutnotbrowned.Stir inthe

garlicandthentheflour,celerysaltand

smokedpaprika.Cooktheflourfor2-3

minutesandthenaddthemascarpone.Wilt

thespinach inapanofsimmeringwaterfor

1minuteandthendrainbriefly.

■ Squeezethe liquidfromthespinach into

a jug,stir this intotheflourmixtureand

bubble it foracoupleofminutes.Finelychop

thespinachandfold it intothemixturewith

mostofthecheddarkeepinga littlebackfor

thetop.Addthe jalapeñopeppers,season

withsaltandpepperandtip intoan

ovenproofdishordishes.Sprinklethebread

overthetopwiththeremainingcheddarand

bakefor40minutes.

■ PER SERVING 354 kcals, protein 11.7g, carbs

14.6g, fat 27.6g. sat fat 17.7g, fibre 3.2g, salt 1.4g

MATCHSPINACHANDJALEPEÑO

MADELEINEWITHALSACE

GEWÜRZTRAMINER

Thearomaticspice inFinest Alsace

Gewürztraminer 2012, France, 13% (£7.99,

Tesco)combineswellwiththepepperand

spice inthisspinachrecipe.

eat in/weekend

MARCH 2014 O 51

✴ alsonowinseason... kale,purplesproutingbroccoli, swede,bananas,rhubarb,mussels

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F R A N C E • I T A L Y • S P A I N • P O R T U G A L • C R O A T I A • A U S T R I A • W O R L D W I D E

01606 828527www.headwater.com/gastronomic

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eat in/weekend

MARCH 2014 O 53

MENU FOR 4✴ Chicory salad with gorgonzola,

pine nuts and honey

✴ Halibut, purple sproutingbroccoli, preserved lemon

✴ Rhubarb tart withvanilla ice cream

Aquickstarterandmake-aheaddessertareperfectforarelaxedSaturdaynightorSundaylunch, fromnewItalianCaféMuranoRecipesSAMWILLIAMS PhotographsMINGTANG-EVANS

Cafeculture

Menu of the month

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BRILLIANT WINE MATCHES

CafeMuranoservesatropicalwhitesuch

asUriel Poggio Anima Grillo, Sicily,

2012 withthechicoryandgorgonzolasalad.

Matchthehalibutwiththecrisp,aromatic

notesof MuraPrisma,Vermentinodi

Sardegna,Sardinia,2012, andpairthe

rhubarbtartwith thecreamy,peachflavoursof

Morandina,Moscatod’Asti,Piemonte,2010.

Halibut, purple sproutingbroccoli, preserved lemon45 minutes ■ Serves ■ 4 EASY

panko breadcrumbs4tbsp

butter

halibut 4x150gskinlesspieces

purple sprouting broccoli 250g, trimmed

spring greens 250g,stalksremoved

andshredded

DRESSING

preserved lemon 1

plum tomatoes 2

chives 1/2smallbunch, finelychopped

extra virgin olive oil

■ Tomakethedressing,scrapeoutthepulp

fromthe lemonanddiscardthendicethe

peel.Putthetomatoes intoboilingwaterfor

5-10secondsthentransferstraight into iced

water. Leavetocool, thenpeel, scrapeout

anddiscardthepulpandseedsanddice.

■ Putthe lemon, tomato,chives,2tbspolive

oilandsomeseasoning inabowlandtoss.

■ Meltaknobofbutter inapan,addthe

pankobreadcrumbsandfryuntil lightgolden

brown.Drainonkitchenpaper.

■ Heatafryingpan,adda littleoliveoil,

andputthefish inskinnedsidedownfor

3-4minutes.Whenthefishstartstoturn

a lightgoldencolourturnandcookfor

another3-4minutes.

■ Whilethefish iscooking,simmerthe

broccoli inboilingwateruntil tenderand

inaseparatepancookthespringgreens

ina littlebutteruntil softened.

■ Spoonthebroccoliandspringgreens

ontoplates,sit thehalibutontop,dresswith

lemonandtomatodressingandgarnishwith

toastedbreadcrumbs.

■ PER SERVING 378 kcals, protein 39.5g, carbs

19.9g, fat 15.8g, sat fat 3.3g, fibre 6.3g, salt 1.2g

Chicory saladwith gorgonzola,pine nuts and honey10 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY

Leavethegorgonzolaoutofthefridgefor

30minutesbeforeyoumakethesalad.

red chicory 1head, trimmed

andleavesseparated

white chicory 1head, trimmed

andleavesseparated

rocket leavesahandful

gorgonzola 100g

pine nuts 25g, toasted

DRESSING

Dijon mustard 1 tsp

runny honey 1 tsp

olive oil2tbsp

walnut oil 1 tbsp

sherry vinegar 1 tbsp

■ Whiskall thedressing ingredientstogether.

■ Putthechicory leavesonplatesandbreak

oversmallpiecesofthegorgonzola.Addthe

rocket leavesandthepinenutsontopofthe

chicory leaves.

■ Spoonoverthedressingandserve.

■ PER SERVING 385 kcals, protein 6.2g, carbs

6.9g, fat 37.3g, sat fat 6.2g, fibre 2.9g, salt 0.3g

54 O MARCH 2014

SUPERQUICK

CAFÉ MURANO is the latest venture for Angela Hartnett (of Michelin-starred Murano

restaurant in Mayfair) with a kitchen run by head chef Sam Williams and front of

house led by Zoe Carton-Brown (both pictured, page 53). In the cosy, banquette-lined

restaurant, the menu highlights Northern Italian dishes such as fettuccine with wild

boar or cod with lentils and salsa verde. Or you can grab one of 12 seats at the marble

dining-bar for cicchetti, which includes truffle arancini and Italian charcuterie.

cafemurano.co.uk

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56 O MARCH 2014

Rhubarb tartwith vanilla ice cream1 1/2 hours + chilling ■ Serves 6

■ A LITTLE EFFORT

plain flour 250g

golden caster sugar75g

butter 125g,chilledanddiced

egg 1 large, lightlybeaten

FILLING

eggs2

granulated sugar 150g

plain flour3tbsp

almond extract ¼ tsp

rhubarb300g

vanilla ice cream toserve

CRUMBLETOPPING

soft brown sugar 100g

plain flour75g

ground nutmeg½ tsp

butter 15g,chilledandcut intopieces

■ Tomakethepastry,mixtheflourand

sugartogether inabowl. Addthebutterand

rub it inwithyourfingertipsuntil themixture

resemblesbreadcrumbs.Pour inthebeaten

eggandmixwell,butdon’toverworkthe

mixture. (Addasplashofcoldwater ifyou

needtobring it together.)Gentlybring it

togetherthenwrap inclingfilmandleaveto

rest inthefridgeforat least30minutes.Roll

outto20pthicknessonaflouredsurfaceand

useto lineashallow23-24cmtartcase.Chill

foranother20minutes.Heattheovento

190C/fan170C/gas5.

■ Tomakethefilling,beattheeggswith

electricbeatersuntil light. Beat inthe

granulatedsugar, flourandthealmond

extractuntil smooth.Stir intherhubarb.

Spoonthemix intothecase.

■ Tomakethetopping, rubthebutter into

theflouruntil themixtureresemblescoarse

crumbs.Mix inthebrownsugarandthe

nutmeg.Sprinkleovertopofthetart.

■ Bakefor40-45minutesoruntilpastry

isgoldenbrownandfilling isset incentre.

Serve justwarmwithvanilla icecream.

■ PER SERVING 484 kcals, protein 7.6g, carbs

76.4g, fat 17.2g, sat fat 9.9g, fibre 3.2g, salt 0.4g

MAKEAHEAD

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MARCH 2014 O 57

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WORTH£20

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Page 58: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

LC

°

L L

°

facebook.com/ainsleyharriottfoodstwitter.com/ainsleyfoodswww.ainsley-harriott.com

It’s the combination of fragrant spices that makes

Ainsley’s Red Thai Chicken soup so fabulous!

Just one of our delicious new range, inspired by

Ainsley’s world travels.With all the flavour of

fresh soups, they keep perfectly in the cupboard.

Find them in the canned soups aisle and begin

your journey of exotic world flavours.

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Page 59: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Labouroflove

Black puddingscotch quailegg sliders

Everymonth,Oscourscookerybooks

forshow-stoppingrecipestomake

whenthere’splentyoftimetoshop

andcook.Areyoufeelingadventurous?

RecipeandphotographBILLYLAW

MARCH 2014 O 59

eat in/weekend

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Page 60: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Black pudding scotchquail egg sliders45 minutes + chilling ■ Makes 10

■ A LITTLE EFFORT

quail’s eggs 10

black pudding 200g

pork sausages2,good-quality,skinned

ground black pepper 1/2 tsp

plain flour 75g

eggs 2, lightlybeaten

panko crumbs 60g

vegetable oil fordeep-frying

mini bun rolls 10,halvedandlightlytoasted

cornichons toserve

WASABIMAYO

wasabi paste 1 tbsp

egg yolks2

white wine vinegar 1 tsp

grapeseed oil 375ml

lemon juiceasqueeze

cayenne pepperapinch

■ Tomakethemayo,putthewasabipaste,

eggyolks,vinegarandapinchofsalt ina

foodprocessorandwhizzuntil combined.

Withthefoodprocessorstill running,addthe

oil inaslow,steadystream–themixturewill

start toemulsifyandturn intomayonnaise.

Scrapethethickmayonnaise intoabowland

seasonwithsalt,pepperand lemonjuice.

Sprinklewithcayennepepperbeforeserving

orstore intherefrigeratorforupto1week.

■ Fillasmallsaucepanwithwaterandbring

totheboiloverahighheat.Oncethewater

isonarollingboil, carefullydropthequail’s

eggs intothewaterandcookfor2minutes.

Scooptheeggsoutanddunkthemquickly

intoabowloficedwatertostopthemcooking.

Peeltheeggscarefullyandsetthemaside.

■ Puttheblackpudding inafoodprocessor

andwhizzuntil crumbly, thenput inamixing

bowlwiththesausagemince,seasonwith

apinchofsaltandpepperandmixwell.

■ Scoopoutaheapedtablespoonofthemix

androll it intoaball, thenflattenit intoadiscin

thepalmofyourhand.Putaquail’segginthe

centreandwraptheminceovertheegg,

makingsuretheeggisfullysealedinside,then

roll itbackintoaballandputonatray.Repeat

untilall theminceandeggsareused.

■ Prepare3separatebowlsofflour,beaten

eggandpankocrumbsreadyforcoating.Roll

eachball in flour,shakeoffanyexcess, then

dip it inthebeatenegg,makingsure it’s fully

coatedandfinallyroll it in thepankocrumbs.

Repeatwiththerestof theballs.Youcan

coattheballs twice inbeateneggandpanko

crumbsforabettercrust.Refrigeratefor30

minutesbeforefrying.

■ Pourthevegetableoil intoamedium

saucepanuntilaboutone-thirdfull thenheat

theoil to 190°Covermedium–highheat.Test

it’shotenoughbydroppingacubeofbread

intotheoil – itshouldbrowninabout30

seconds.Working inbatches,deep-frythe

scotcheggsfor3minutes,oruntilgolden

brown.Removewithaslottedspoonand

drainonkitchentowel.

■ Toserve,putadollopofwasabimayo

onthebottomhalvesofthebuns, topwith

ascotcheggandputonthetops.Usea

toothpicktosecureacornichonontopof

eachslider.

TESTEDBY

AnnaGlover

I really likeScotcheggs

–maybeabit too

much.Whenever Isee

themonthemenu,

I feel inclinedtoget

one(ortwo),althoughI’vetriedafew

disappointinghard-yolkedandsoggy-

crumbedones.

I’vemadethemafewtimesathomefor

friendsandassoonas Isawthisrecipe,

IknewIhadtotrythisversion.All the

elementswererightupmystreetand

together?Well that’sgenius!Thekickofthe

wasabi,creaminessofthemayoandthe

crunchofthebreadcrumbsaroundthe

earthyblackpudding–heavenly.Nowall

Ineededwasanexcusetomakethem.

Whenacoupleof friendsfromManchester

cametostayoneweekend, itwastheperfect

opportunity. Iknewtheywouldn’tbefazedby

blackpudding,andanythingdeep-fried in

breadcrumbscompensatesfor initial

reservations,asonefriendput itwhowasn’t

originallysoldonthe idea. It tickedall the

boxes.Minewerea little largerthanyour

averageslider,abithardertoeatwithout

dissectingafewofthecomponents,butthe

flavourwasfantastic.Theblackpudding

combinedwiththesausagemeatwasa

perfectcombinationofsalty,crumblyand

delicatelyherby,against therichnessofthe

quail’segg.Thewasabimayonnaisebrought

thewholethingtogether,cuttingthrough

withthevinegarycornichonsandsoft floury

bap. It’sanewfavouritesnackofmine.

I foundpeelingthequail’seggsabit tricky

andtime-consuming,butotherthanthis, the

recipewassurprisinglyeasytofollow. Iused

morepankobreadcrumbsthanstatedas

Idouble-coatedmineandtheyturnedout

a littlebiggerthanIoriginallyexpected,but

theywereshowstopperswhenIplatedthem

up– Igotafantasticreactionfrommyguests.

All the ingredientsareeasytofind inthe

supermarketsso Ididn’tneedtodoany

specialistshopping.

Nextonmylist totryfromthebook is

twice-cookedporkbellywithappleand

cabbageslawandtheporkandchive

dumplingnoodlesoup.Theroastduckand

lycheeredcurry looksreallyexcitingtoo.

Recipe from Billy

Law’s Have you

Eaten (Hardie

Grant, £25)

Anna’s version

60 O MARCH 2014

eat in/weekend

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*Sunflower oil naturally contains omega-6. Flora contains omegas-3 & 6 that help to maintain normal cholesterol levels.WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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Page 62: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Vietnamese food offers a culinary awakening for eventhe most jaded palate. It screams freshness in its varietyof raw herbs used to punctuate dishes and itscontrasting textures and flavours – soft, gooey and

crunchy, sweet, sharp and sour – meld together to create anexplosion of sensations like no other. For me, it was love at first bite.

I moved toVietnam nearly 20 years ago to learn about its foodand discover what I felt would be ‘the new cuisine’, planning toeventually return to San Francisco and open aVietnamese-inspired restaurant. But I fell in love with the people, the lifestyleand (of course) the food, which is healthy, often gluten-free,low-fat and easy to cook.

Vietnamese cuisine is very different from the rest of itsneighbours in Southeast Asia who embraced the chilli and thespice trade.Vietnamese food is subtle and light, borrowingtechniques from the French and Chinese, creating and perfectinga very ‘modern’ cuisine 1,000 years ago.

I opened House of Ho to bring my style of modernVietnamesecooking to Soho.The food is a cumulation of the past 18 yearsthat I have been living and working in both Hanoi and Saigon.Some people think it is a quirky, contemporary approach toVietnamese cookery, but I always try to give a respectful nodto the country’s fascinating culinary culture. House of Ho isa 90-seat restaurant that also has a small private dining room,art by well-knownVietnamese artists and a long bar where wehave had fun concocting some great cocktails.

Sautéed beef with ricenoodles and salad (bún bò)15 minutes + marinating ■ Serves 2

■ EASY

Youcanbuycrispyfriedshallots intubs

insomesupermarketsandAsianstores

ordeep-fryslicedshallotsuntilcrisp.

Whenyoucookthericenoodles,allow

themtocool intoasticky lumprather

thanseparatingthemout.

beef fillet 100g, thinlysliced

vegetable oil

lemon grass 1 tsp, finelychopped

coriander 5g,chopped

mixed salad leaves 50g,shredded

cooked rice noodles 100g

garlic 1 tspof finelychopped

beef stock or water 2tbsp

beansprouts 50g

crispy-fried shallots 1 tbsp

toasted sesame seeds 1 tbsp, toasted

toasted peanuts 1 tbsp,chopped

NUOCCHAMSAUCE

sugar 3tsp

Thai birds eye chilli 1 finger-length,

finelychopped

garlic 2cloves,crushed

lime juice 1 tbsp

fish sauce 2tbsp

■ Tomakethenuocchamsauce,putthe

sugarinasmallpanwith60mlwater.Bringto

theboilthensetaside.Whencool,combine

withthechilli,garlicandlimejuice.Mixwell

andstir inthefishsauce.

■ Tossthesteakwith1tspoilandthe

choppedlemongrassandleaveforabout

15minutestomarinate.

■ Prepareeachbowlbyaddingsome

herbsandsaladandtoppingwithaclump

ofricenoodles.

■ Heatfryingpanoverahighheatandsear

thebeef.Letitsitforafewminutesbefore

shakingthepantocreatealittle

caramelisation.

■ Stirtoensureit isallevenlycookedthen

addthegarlicandcookforafewminutes

more,makingsurethatitdoesnotburn.

■ Keepingtheheathigh,addthebeefstock

orwater,scrapingthepantoreleasethe

caramelisedjuices.

■ Throwinthebeansproutsandcoverfor

aminutewhiletheysoftenabit.Addalittle

nuocchamsauceandtosstogether.

■ Spoonthebeefandbeansproutswiththeir

juicesintothebowls.Garnishwithshallots,

toastedsesameseedsandpeanuts.Servethe

restofthenuocchamontheside.

62 O MARCH 2014

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BeinspiredtocookauthenticAsiandisheswiththesevibrantVietnameserecipesfromBobbyChinn–chefandownerofnewLondonrestaurant,TheHouseofHoWordsandrecipesBOBBYCHINNPhotographsJASONLOWE

VIETNAMCooklikealocal

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Page 63: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Sake steamed clams(ngao hap ríáu sake)25 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY

clams 2 kg, cleaned

red chillies 5, pounded

sake 125ml

ginger 20g, 1/2 crushed and1/2 finely chopped

lemon grass stalks 2, bruised, plus 2 tbsp

chopped lemon grass

garlic 2 tbsp crushed

tomato skinned and diced to make 2 tbsp

coriander leaves 2 tbsp, chopped

kaffir lime leaves 2 tsp, thinly sliced

■ First,cleantheclamsbysoakingthemfor

30minutesinwaterwiththepoundedchillies.

■ Heatawide,shallowpotbigenoughforthe

clamsonthestove.Addthesake,crushed

ginger, lemongrassstalks,garlicand400ml

water,andbringtotheboil.

■ Addthedrainedclams,coverandsteam

for3minutes,oruntiltheyopen.Liftoutthe

openedclamsintoservingbowls.

■ Pourthehotstockovertheclamsand

scatterwiththeginger, lemongrass,tomato,

corianderandlimeleaftoserve.

Chicken wings cooked incaramel sauce and ginger(cánh gà kho gïng)1 hour ■ Serves 4 as a snack ■ EASY

Thisrecipemakesmorecaramelsaucethan

you’llneedbut itwillkeepinthefridgefor

acoupleofweeks.

chicken wings 700g

ginger 20g, finely shredded

caramel sauce 3 tbsp, at room temperature

(see recipe below)

salt 1/2 tsp

sugar 3 tbsp

fish sauce 2 tbsp

ground black pepper 1 tsp

CARAMEL SAUCE

dark muscovado sugar 100g

fish sauce 2 tbsp

hot chicken stock or water 200ml

red chilli 1/2

lime juice 1/2 tsp

cinnamon stick 1 small or 1 tsp ground

cinnamon (optional)

black peppercorns 1 tsp (optional)

■ Tomakethecaramelsauce,putthedark

muscovadosugarwith2tbspwaterinadeep

panandheatslowlyuntilthesugarhas

melted,makingsureitdoesnotburnatthe

edges.Oncefullymelted,turntheheatupand

boil,swirlingthepanuntilyouhaveacaramel.

Beverycarefulwhendoingthis,asthesugar

cancausenastyburns.

■ Oncethesugaris justalittlebitdarker,turn

theheatofftostopitovercooking.Remove

yourspoonfromthepotandpourthefish

sauceintothecaramel(thefishsauceshould

beatroomtemperature).Dothisvery

carefully,asitwillsplatterviolently.Addthe

hotstockorwatertothinthesaucethen

addthechilliandlimejuice.Thehotliquid

willpreventthesugarfromcrystallising,

butif italreadyhas, justcookit longeruntil

itdissolves.Reducetheheatandaddthe

cinnamonandpeppercorns.

■ Cuteachwingintoits3mainpieces:the

mainwingjoint,thesecondjointandthewing

tip. Iusuallysavethetipsforstock,unlessIam

totallyfamished.

■ Inasaucepan,addtheshreddedginger

totheroomtemperaturecaramelsauce.

Addthesalt, sugar, fishsauce,pepperand

500mlwater.Overhighheat,bringthe

mixturetoarapidboiluntil it thickensthen

turntheheatrightdownandaddthe

chickenwingpieces.Simmer,stirring

occasionally, for30-40minutesoruntil

thechicken isverytenderandcoated inthe

caramelsauce.Skimoffanyexcessfat.Serve

onabedofAsianslawmadefromshredded

daikon ifyou like.

eat in/weekend

MARCH 2014 O 63

Recipes are

adapted and tested

by theO team,

taken from his

book, Bobby

Chinn’sVietnamese

Food (Conran,

£17.99). Available

toO readers

for £12 with free

UK p&p*.

TRUSTO

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Page 64: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

MENU DECODERKnow what to order whether you are in Vietnam or at your

local Vietnamese restaurant

PhoThe national dish of Vietnam made with ricenoodles. It is silky and smooth, with tender shredsof chicken or beef in a broth so clear it could passas a consommé.Sweet and sour fish soupFound in manyrestaurants throughout Vietnam, usually featuringtwo contrasting sweet/sour ingredients – forexample, pineapple and tamarind.Bun boA warm beef noodle salad with a verylight sweet and sour broth. One of the best-lovedVietnamese dishes, you’re most likely to find thisclassic street food fare in Hanoi.Summer rollsA fresh rice paper wrap filledwith sticky rice noodles, julienne of carrots,cucumbers, herbs and salad leaves, often finishedwith a couple of slices of roasted pork and boiledshrimp and served with a dipping sauce of hoisinand roasted chopped peanuts. The deep-friedversion is filled with cellophane noodles, mincedpork, spring onions, slivers of mushrooms andserved with Nuoc cham, a classic dip made withfish sauce, sugar, water, lime juice seasoned withgarlic and chilli.Banh cuonThin steamed rice paper rolled andstuffed with minced pork, chopped mushrooms,thin slices of shallots and garnished with shrimppowder and deep-fried shallots. Paired with anenriched version of Nuoc cham.ChèThere are several versions of this distinctivedessert, including sweet corn, tapioca, sweetenedblack beans and mung bean purée. Each is servedover crushed ice, sweetened with coconut creamand garnished with chopped roasted peanuts orroasted shaved coconut flesh.

IF THIS HAS INSPIRED YOU TO VISIT VIETNAM,READ OUR CHEF’S GUIDE ON PAGE 107

Hanoi calamari salad(n·m môc há noi)30 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY

squid 2small, cleaned

birds eye chillies 2,slicedatanangle

lime juice2tbsp

fish sauce 2tbsp

dark muscovado sugar 1/2 tsp

garlic crushedtomake 1tsp

ginger averysmallchunk,peeled

andfinelyshredded

onion 1/4 small, thinlysliced

celery 1/4 ofasmallstalk,stringsremoved

andfinely shredded

Thai basil leaves, toserve

SALAD

avocado 1,peeled,stonedanddiced

tomatoes 2large,skinnedanddiced

rocket ahandfulof leaves

TAMARINDSAUCE

tamarind purée 2 1/2 tbsp

palm sugar 1 tbsp,dissolved inasplash

ofboilingwater

apple juice 1 1/2 tbsp

ground cumin 1/4 tsp

VINAIGRETTE

balsamic vinegar 1 tbsp

olive oil 1 tbsp

vegetable oil 1 tbsp

dark muscovado sugar 1/2 tbsp

Dijon mustard 1/4 tsp

■ Cutthesquidbodiesopenlengthwaysand

scorewithfinecriss-crosscuts.Bringapanof

saltedwatertotheboilandhaveabowlof

waterwithahandfulof iceready.Blanchthe

squidintheboilingwaterfor20-30seconds.

Removewithaslottedspoonandputinthe

icedwatertostopthecooking.

■ Inasmallbowl,mixtogetherhalfthe

chillies,thelimejuice,fishsauceandsugar

tomakeamarinadeandsetaside.

■ Whenthesquidiscool,drainitandpatdry.

Putthesquidinabowlwith 1/4 tspsalt,apinch

ofblackpepper,garlicandginger.Stir,addthe

onion,celeryandremainingchilliandmix

together.Pourthemarinadeoverthesquid

andleavetostandforatleast15minutes.

■ Whiskthevinaigretteingredientstogether

and makethesaladbytossingtheingredients

withthevinaigretteuntil lightlycoated.

■ Arrangethesaladonaservingplateorin

ashallowbowlandtopwiththesquid.Mixthe

ingredientsforthetamarindsauceandspoon

aroundtheedge.FinishwithThaibasil leaves.

eat in/weekend

64 O MARCH 2014

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Step away from the melted cheese.Would Miss Mooreplease step away, NOW, from the melted cheese.Thereshould have been a tannoy. I needed a tannoy, or at leastsomeone to remind me when to stop – or even just that

stopping was an option. It had been years since I’d eaten fondueand I’d forgotten how completely delicious it is.Also howterrifyingly much cheese it is possible to eat when it’s melted.Twoof us polished off all of this between us – and imagine sitting downto eat half a pound of cold cheese.You just wouldn’t, would you.That may be why I had to have a bit of a lie down on the floor ofour rented NationalTrust cottage (happily it was clean) afterwards.It’s also why I recommend sharing it between four.As for the wine,well cheese fondue is the sort of thing you imagine eating on a coldnight halfway up a mountain and it’s Alpine whites that I think offirst.You want good acidity for refreshment, little or no oak, and alithe, breezy taste. Something so fresh it feels like the sting of coldair that hits your face on a snowy ski lift. Picpoul will work. If youmust drink sauvignon blanc make sure it’s a grassy one from theLoire or a clear one from Bordeaux as gooseberries and gruyèreis an odd match. Gruner veltliner is good.As is savagnin, a whitevariety mainly from the Jura. Light reds can be a bracingcombination, too – try marcillac or a simple beaujolais villages.

Cheese fondue30 minutes ■ Serves 4 as a starter

■ EASY

gruyère200g,grated

emmenthal 200g,grated

white wine 175ml

garlic 1clove,peeled

cornflour2tsp

kirsch 1 tbsp

TOSERVE

radishes 1 smallbunch,washed

carrots2,peeledandcut intobatons

white chicory 2,outer leavesseparated,

heartscut intoquarters

red pepper 1, seededandcut intostrips

soughdough2slices, toastedandcut

intofingers

■ Putthegratedcheese,wineandgarlic in

abowlbalancedoverasaucepanfullof

boilingwatertomakeabainmarie.Continue

toheat,stirringoccasionally,until thecheese

hascompletelymelted intothewine.Season.

Stir inthecornflourandkirsch.Removethe

bowlfromthesaucepan,putonthetable,or

transfertoawarmservingdish,andserve

withvegandbreadfordipping.

■ PER SERVING 446 kcals, protein 28.1g , carbs

4.3g, fat 31.5g, sat fat 19.7g, fibre 0.1g, salt 1.4g

VictoriaMoorewritesforTheTelegraph

andistheauthorofHowtoDrink

(Granta,£12.99*).

MARCH 2014 O 65

eat in/weekendP

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Ourexpertsuggestsnewwinestodrinkwiththedishesyou lovebest, includinganexcellentbargainbottle WordsandrecipeVICTORIAMOORE

Domaine Wachau Terraces GrunerVeltliner

2012 Austria, 13% (£9.99,Waitrose)

Grunerveltlinerhasadelicateflavour(think

whitepepperandcitruspith)anda light

touch.Watchoutforthisonpromotionwhen

itcomesdownto£7.99.

Domaine du Cros Lo Sang del Pais Marcillac

2012 France, 12.5% (£7.95,TheWine

Society)This isa lightredwithreal tang

madefromagrapecalledferservadou.Sang

meansblood inFrenchand, trueto itsname,

itdoeshaveahintof iron.

Langhe Arneis 2012 Italy, 13% (£12.99,

M&S)Arneis is the(little-known)grapefrom

thenorth-westof Italy.This isallclean,clear

lines, laser-like intheirprecision,

withatingeofaniseedandnooak.

FOUR TO TRY WITHCHEESE FONDUE

BARGAIN

£5.59Moncaro Verdicchio dei

Castelli di Jesi Classico 2012

Marche, Italy, 12.5% (£5.59,

Waitrose) Italiansareextremely

goodatcrispwhitenumbers

andthisone’sarealstar.

Slightlyherbaceousand

very lucid.

Victoria’swinematchCheese fondue

NEXTMONTH

Boeuf bourguignonONSALE5MARCH

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66 O MARCH 2014

Steak andale pudding

Makingasavourysteamedpuddingfromscratch iseasierthanyouthinkwithstep-by-stephelpfromO’s testkitchenPhotographsDAVIDMUNNS

Makeyourown

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1 2 3

4 5 6

7 8 9

10 11 12

eat in/weekend

MARCH 2014 O 67

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Steak and ale pudding2 1/2 hours+2hourssteaming

■ Serves 4 ■ A LITTLE EFFORT

oil

onion 1 large,halvedandsliced

chestnut mushrooms 200g,quartered

braising steak 400g,cut into2cmpieces

andtrimmedoffat

plain flour 1 tbsp,seasoned

tomato purée 1 tsp

brown ale or Guinness 300ml

rosemary 1 sprig, leavespickedandchopped

SUETPASTRY

self-raising flour 250g

shredded beef suet 125g

➊Heatadrizzleofoil ina largefryingpan

andcooktheonionsandmushroomsuntil

golden, thenscoopout.Tossthesteak inthe

seasonedflourandfryuntilbrowned(you

mightneedadropmoreoil).Addbackthe

onionsandmushroomsandaddthetomato

purée,brownaleandthyme,stirringthem

togetherthoroughly.Bringtoasimmer,cover

andcookfor2hoursbeforeleavingtocool.

➋ Tomakethepastry,puttheflour,suet,1/2 tspsaltandagoodgrindofpepper in

abowl.Graduallymix in 150mlcoldwater

withadinnerknifeuntil itmakesadough.

➌Bringtogether intoaball,wrap inclingfilm

andrest inthefridgefor30minutes.

➍,➎,➏Roll thesuetpastryouttoacircle

about 1cmthickandcutaquarteroutofthe

circleandkeepforthetop.Usetherestof

thepastryto lineawell-buttered1 litre

puddingbasincrimpingtheendstogether.

➐,➑Fill the linedbasinwiththesteakmix

thenre-roll the leftoverpastrytomakea lid.

Crimptheedgestogethertoseal.

➒Layasheetofbutteredbakingpaperon

topofasheetof foil, foldapleat inthemiddle

andsmoothdowntosharpenthepleat.

➓Putthedoublesheetontopofthe

puddingbakingpapersidedownandmould

tothetopofthebasinwithyourhands.

Tiewithstringundertherimofthebasin

andtieahandletomake iteasiertomove.

Trimanyexcessfoil thenput inasteamer

oronanupturnedsaucer ina largepanand

pourboilingwatertohalfwayupthesidesof

thebowl.Steamfor2hourskeepinganeye

onthewater level.Toserve,unwrapthen

carefully turnoutontoaservingplate.

■ PER SERVING 675 kcals, protein 28.7g, carbs

58.3g, fat 34.9g, sat fat 18.4g, fibre 4.9g, salt 1.4g

How did you get on? Share your

photo on twitter or on our facebook page

– we’d love to see your results.

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Page 68: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Franck Raymond was taught tocook by his grandmother andhis first restaurant,AugustineKitchen, is named after her.

The menu at this neighborhood bistrocentres on cuisine from his native Evianregion of France, and much of the menu,from the charcuterie to the fish, iscarefully sourced from there.There areclassic French starters such as cassouletof snails with garlic and parsley, £5.50,and hearty mains including rack of lamb,£16.95, and roast duck magret, £17.95.Desserts, however, are Franck’s specialityand he is a self-confessed chocolate loverwho likes to experiment with differentflavour combinations.This decadentchocolate mousse, £4.95, is delicious aswell as simple to make at home. Franckserves it with seasonal fruit – you can usefrozen raspberries or serve with poachedpear, oranges or passion fruit.63 Battersea Bridge Road,London,SW11(020 7978 7085; Augustine-kitchen.co.uk)

Dotrythisathome

Chocolate mousse30 minutes + overnight setting ■ Serves 8

■ EASY

dark chocolate 200g,broken intopieces

eggs6,separated

golden caster sugar25g

double cream 150ml,softlywhipped

seasonal fruit toserve(raspberries,passion

fruit,orangesegmentsorpoachedpear)

CRUMBLETOPPING

butter25g

plain flour25g

golden caster sugar20g

ground almonds 20g

cocoa powder 1 tsp

■ Tomakethemousse,putthechocolate

inaheatproofbowlandadd2tbspofwater.

Putthebowloverapanofsimmering

water,untilthechocolatemelts,making

surethebottomofthebowldoesn’ttouch

thewater.

■ Beattheeggwhiteswithapinchofsalt

until stiffandbeattheyolkswiththesugar

until they’rea littlepaler.Oncethechocolate

hascooledslightly,pourovertheeggyolks

andmixwell.

■ Graduallyaddtheeggwhitesandfold

inverygentlywitha largemetalspoon.

Dividebetweeneightsmallservingdishes

and leavetosetovernight inthefridge.

■ Tomakethecrumbletopping,heatthe

ovento150C/fan130/gas2.Rubthebutter

withtheflouruntil it resemblesbreadcrumbs

thenstir intherestof the ingredients.Spread

overabakingtrayandbakefor 10minutes,

then leavetocool.

■ Toservethemousse,topwithaspoonof

creamandsprinkleoversomeofthecrumble

topping.Servewithseasonalfruit.

■ PER SERVING 371kcal 7.8g protein 17.2g

carbs 29g fat 15.3g sat fat 2.9g fibre 0.2g salt

Augustine Kitchen’schocolate mousseArich,silkydessertthat’ssimpletomakebutguaranteedto impressWordsDANIELLETHEUNISSEN PhotographsJOSHKEARNS

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eat in/weekend

MARCH 2014 O 69WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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Page 71: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Ginger andpork pattieswithnoodles(page 86)

Singapore crab noodles✴Quick black bean chilli ✴Cauliflower and ginger curry

✴Spinach and feta quesadillas✴Smoky chipotle meatballs ✴Pork chops with apple mash

eatineverydayWe know you don’t have much time midweek to search for trickyingredients or spend hours cooking elaborate dinners, but it’s stillpossible to eat something imaginative and satisfying. Our everydaysuppers are quick and easy. This month you’ll find a great-value

family pasta, a Friday night curry for two, healthy spiced chicken,plus how to make the most of veg box stalwart, cauliflower.

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72 O MARCH 2014

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£35formeals7

Planyourweekwith foodeditorJanineRatcliffe’seasy,great-valuemealsfortwoorfourRecipesJANINERATCLIFFE PhotographsSAMSTOWELL

One of the things I’ve learnt fromwriting this feature every month isthat sometimes it only costs a littlebit more to double up on a recipe,especially if your main ingredient issomething that comes in a pack likebeef mince or you have to buysomething whole, like a squash. I’llbe including more meals that feedfour people so you can make afamily-sized supper if needed, or ifthere are two of you, you can savethe rest for lunch the next day orfreeze it for later.

*Recipe costings are based on the exact amount of ingredients used. For example 125g of butter

will be costed at half the price of a 250g pack. Our costings are always based on free range

eggs and high welfare meat.

SHOPPING BASKET

onions 4

red chilli 1

ginger asmallchunk

butternut squash 1about 1kg

parsleyabunch

rosemary 2sprigs

chopped tomatoes 4x400gtins

double cream 100ml

parmesan 2tbspplusextratoserve

rigatoni 300g

beef mince 500g

red onion 1 1/2

coriander 2smallbunches

chipotle paste 2tbsp

soured cream 4tbsp

avocado 1

orzo 1pack

pancetta cubes 75g

shallot 1

roasted red peppers 3 fromajar

Ingredients you’ll need

butterbeans 400gtin

rocket 50g

crusty bread

jungle curry paste 2tbsp(ThaiTaste

makesaveryauthenticone)

skinless chicken thigh fillets 300g

baby corn and green bean mixed

pack 150g

lime 1

cooked basmati rice 1pack

ciabatta mix 300g

halloumi 250gblock

red chilli 1

floury potatoes 500g

Bramley apple 1about200g

pork chops 2fatones,onthebone

thyme afewsprigs

dry cider 250ml

green beans 150g

STORECUPBOARD

olive oil

garlic

cumin seeds

ground coriander

vegetable stock

chicken stock

sherry or red wine vinegar

fish sauce

brown sugar

capers

butter

oil for frying

flour

horseradish sauce

£33.96TOTAL FOR

7 MEALS*

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Page 73: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

MONDAYSpiced squash soup50minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY

olive oil

onions 2,roughlychopped

garlic 2cloves, roughlychopped

red chilli 1, finelysliced

ginger asmallchunk,grated

butternut squash 1about 1kg,peeled,seeds

scoopedoutand cut intochunks

cumin seeds 2tsp, toasted

ground coriander 1 tsp

veg or chicken stock 800ml

parsley ahandful,chopped(optional)

■ Heat2tbspoliveoil inapanandfrythe

onion,garlic,chilliandgingeruntil soft.Add

thesquashandspicesandcookforafew

minutesthentip inthestockandsimmer

until thesquash issoftandyoucanmashit

withthebackofaspoon.Puteverything in

ablenderandwhizzuntil smooth.Adda

handfulof freshparsleytofinish ifyou like.

■ PER SERVING 193 kcals, protein 10g , carbs

25.5g, fat 6.4g, sat fat 1g, fibre 7.6g, salt 0.6g

FEEDS 4 FOR

£1.92

Thisalsotastes

greatusingsweet

potato instead

ofsquash

eat in/everyday

MARCH 2014 O 73

COOK’S

NOTES

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TUESDAYRigatoni withtomato, rosemaryand parmesan sauce30 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY

onion 1,grated

rosemary ahandful,choppedtomake1tsp

olive oil

garlic 2cloves,crushed

chopped tomatoes2x400gtins

double cream 100ml

parmesan finelygratedtomake2tbspplus

extratoserve

rigatoni 300g

FEEDS 4 FOR

£2.98

Thissauce isvery

adaptable–try

pouring itover

whitefishfilletsand

baking intheoven

COOK’S

NOTES

■ Cooktheonionandrosemary in2tbsp

oliveoiluntil soft.Addthegarlicandcook

foracouplemoreminutesbeforetipping

inthetomatoes.Simmerfor20minutesuntil

it is reducedandthickened.

■ Stir inthecreamandsimmerforacouple

moreminutesbeforestiring intheparmesan.

Cookthepasta,drainandtosswiththe

sauce.Servewithextraparmesanifyou like.

PER SERVING 458kcals, protein 14.2g, carbs

49g, fat 23.2g, sat fat 10.6g, fibre 2.7g, salt 0.4g

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Page 75: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

FEEDS 4 FOR

£7.92

WEDNESDAYSmoky chipotle meatballs40 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY

beef mince 500g

red onion 1 large,grated

coriander asmallbunch,chopped

chipotle paste 2tbsp

olive oil

garlic 1clove,crushed

chopped tomatoes 2x400gtins

chicken stock 200ml

soured cream 4tbsp

avocado 1, slicedtoserve

orzo, cookedtoserve

■ Putthemince,halfofboththeonionand

corianderand1tbspofthechipotlepaste in

abowl.Mixtogetherthoroughlyandform

into20smallmeatballs.

■ Heata littleoliveoil inapan,addthe

meatballsandfryuntilbrownedalloverthen

scoopout.Addtherestof thegratedonion

andgarlic tothesamepanandcookuntil

softened.Addtherestof the

chipotlepasteandcookfora

minutethentip inthe

tomatoesandchickenstock.

Simmerfor 10-15minutesuntil

thesaucehasthickened

beforeaddingbackthe

meatballsandcookingfor

another 10minutes.

■ Serveonorzowithsoured

cream,someavocadoand

scatteredwiththeextracoriander.

■ PER SERVING 385kcals,protein29.7g,

carbs11.8g,fat24.4g,satfat10.7g,fibre3.3g,

salt0.8g

Makethese

meatballswith

mincedturkeyor

pork ifyouprefer

COOK’S

NOTES

eat in/everyday

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Page 76: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

THURSDAYWarm roasted pepperand butterbean salad10 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY

pancetta cubes75g

olive oil

shallot 1, sliced

roasted red peppers 3 fromajar,drained

andsliced

butterbeans 400gtin, rinsedanddrained

sherry or red wine vinegar

rocket 50g, toserve

crusty bread toserve

■ Cookthepancetta in2tbsp

oliveoiluntilgolden.Addtheshallotsand

cookforacoupleofminutesuntil softened,

thentip inthepeppers,butterbeansand

splashofvinegarandstiruntilheated

through.Seasonthenpileontoplateswith

therocketandservewithlotsofcrustybread.

■ PER SERVING 331 kcals, protein 14g, carbs

18.2g, fat 22.2g, sat fat 6g, fibre 5.9g, salt 1.2g

FEEDS 2 FOR

£3.65

Leaveoutthepancetta

COOK’S

NOTES

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COOK’S

NOTES

MARCH 2014 O 77

eat in/everyday

FRIDAYQuick Thai jungle curry20 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY

IfyoulikehotThairedcurry, trythis

junglecurry– it’snotasrichas itcontains

nococonutmilk,butbeware, it ISfiery.

jungle curry paste 2tbsp

(ThaiTastemakeaveryauthenticone)

chicken stock 300ml

coriander a smallbunch,

stalksfinelychopped, leaves

leftwhole

skinless chicken thigh fillet 300g,sliced

baby corn and sugr snap mixed pack 150g

fish sauce

brown or other sugar

lime 1, 1/2 juiced, 1/2 cut intowedges

basmati rice toserve

■ Heatanon-stickpanandput inthecurry

pasteandasplashofthestock.Fryforafew

minutesuntilyoucansmellallof the

aromaticsfromthepaste.Addtherestof the

stockandcorianderstalksandsimmerfor

2-3minutes.Addthechickenandsimmer

until thechicken iscookedthrough.Addthe

vegandcookforacoupleofminutesuntil

just tender.Stir inagoodsplashoffishsauce,

1 tspofsugarandthe limejuiceandcookfor

30seconds.Servewithrice,ascatteringof

thecoriander leavesandwith limewedges

tosqueezeover.

■ PER SERVING 254 kcals, protein 38.9g ,

carbs 7g, fat 8g, sat fat 1.4g, fibre 3.1g, salt 1.8g

FEEDS 2 FOR

£6.79

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Page 78: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

78 O MARCH 2014

Foranevenquicker

supper,servefried

slicesofhalloumi

withthedressing

spoonedover

withsomewarm

pittabreads

COOK’S

NOTES

SATURDAYHalloumi pizzettes withcaper and chilli dressing25 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY

ciabatta mix 300g

halloumi 250gblock,verythinlysliced

red onion 1/2, verythinlysliced

olive oil

capers 2tbsp,drained

red chilli 1, finelychopped

garlic 1/2 smallclove,crushed

parsleyahandful,choppedtoserve

■ Heattheovento200C/fan180C/gas6.

Makeuptheciabattamixanddivide into2.

Rollout intoovalsandputthemonalarge

bakingsheet.Dividethehalloumiandred

onionbetweenthem,seasonanddrizzlewith

a littleoil.Bakefor 10-12minutesuntilpuffed.

■ Mixtherestof the ingredientswith2tbsp

oliveoilandseason.Spoonoverthehot

pizzettesbeforeeating.

PER SERVING 435 kcals, protein 19.7g , carbs

34.6g, fat 24g, sat fat 10.8g, fibre 1.7g, salt 3g

FEEDS 4 FOR

£3.60

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Page 79: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

SUNDAYPork chops withapple mash45 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY

floury potatoes 500g,peeledandchopped

Bramley apple 1about200g,peeled

andchopped

butter

oil for frying

pork chops 2fatones,onthe

boneifpossible

onion 1 large,halvedandthinlysliced

thyme afewsprigs

plain flour 1heapedtsp

dry cider 250ml

horseradish sauce 1 tbsp

green beans 150g

■ Putthepotatoes inapanwith lotsof

seasoningandabigknobofbutter.Add

enoughwaterto justcoverthenbringto

aboil, turndownandgentlysimmerfor 10

minutes.Addtheappleandcookuntil the

applesandpotatoesaretender(theapple

willgoabitmushyas it’saBramleybutdon’t

worry).Tipeverything intoasieveor

colanderand leavetodrain.

■ Heataheavyfryingpanuntil it isveryhot.

Rubthechopswithoilandseason.Using

tongs,holdthechopsfatsidedowninthe

panuntil thefat iscrispandgoldenthenput

flatsidedowninthepanandsearfor

afewminutesoneachsideuntilwell

browned.Liftoutthen lowertheheatand

addtheonions.

■ Fryforabout20minutesuntilverysoft

anddarkgolden(don’tskipthisstepas

itgivesthefinishedsauceareallydeep

colour).Addthethymeandflourandstir

until theflourhasbeensoakedup.Gradually

stir intheciderandbubbleuptoasauce.

Simmerfor2minutesthenaddbackthe

chopsandgivethemanother5-7minutes

inthesauce, turninguntil cookedthrough.

Tipthepotatoandappleback into itspan

andmashwithanotherknobofbutterand

thehorseradish.Stiruntil reheated.Serve

thechops,sauceandmashwithbuttered

greenbeans.

■ PER SERVING 718 kcals, protein 43g , carbs

71.5g, fat 25.8g, sat fat 9.6g, fibre 9g, salt 0.9g

Tryceleriac

insteadofpotato

inthismash, itgoes

verywellwithapple

COOK’S

NOTES

eat in/everyday

MARCH 2014 O 79

FEEDS 2 FOR

£7.10

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Page 81: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Inspired byGRAIN STORE, LONDONAlthoughBrunoLoubert’snewestrestaurant

isn’tstrictlyvegetarian,theemphasisisfirmly

onveg:innovativedisheslikethebuttermilk

andcaraway-braisedcauliflowerwithblack

trompettesandfreshgrapes,takeprideofplace

onthemenuratherthanbeingrelegated

tosidedishes.(grainstore.com)

TRY OUR VERSION

Roasted cauliflowerand grape salad withbuttermilk dressing50 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY

cauliflower 2,broken intochunkyflorets

olive oil

caraway seeds 2tsp

cumin seeds 2tsp

red grapes 200g

parsley asmallbunch, leavespicked

mint asmallbunch, leavespicked

hazelnuts 150g, toasted

lemon 1, juiced

buttermilk75ml

tahini 11/2 tbsp

■ Heattheovento200C/fan180C/gas6.

Putthecaulifloweronaparchment-lined

bakingtraywith2tbspofoil, thespicesand

plentyofseasoningandtosstogether.Roast

for20minutes.Tossthegrapeswithanother

tbspofoil,addtothecauliflowerandcarry

onroastingfor5-10minutesmoreuntil the

cauliflowerbeginstobrownattheedgesand

grapesstart tosoften.

■ Choptheherbsandthenutssothey’restill

chunky.Whisk 1 tbspoilwiththe lemonjuice,

buttermilkandtahiniandseason.Holdback

afewoftheherbsandscattertherestwith

thenuts,cauliflowerandgrapesonabig

platter.Drizzleoversomeofthedressing,

andtopwiththerestof theherbs.

PER SERVING 518 kcals, protein 17.7g, carbs

19.5g, fat 42.1g, sat fat 4.5g, fibre 8.2g, salt 0.1g

Chefsaregreatatmakingeverydayingredientsspecial.We’vebeeninspiredbythreerestaurants

tocreatetheseeasybut imaginativedishesPhotographsSAMSTOWELL

CAULIFLOWER3wayswith

eat in/everyday

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Page 82: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Inspired byLUNYA, LIVERPOOLAswellasbeingaBritishwinterstaple,cauli

isverypopularinSpainandthespiced

cauliflowerandmanchegofrituraswith

romescosauceareayear-roundfixtureof

thisCatalanrestaurantanddeli

inLiverpool’scitycentre.

(lunya.co.uk)

TRY OUR VERSION

Cauliflower and manchegofritters with romesco relish1 hour 10 minutes ■ Serves 4as light lunch

■ EASY

cauliflower 350g,stalksremoved

plain flour 100g

eggs 4,beaten

manchego 200g,half finelygrated,half

diced into1cmcubes

spring onions 3, finelysliced

parsley roughlychoppedtomake4tbsp

lemons 2zested, thencut intowedges

toserve

oil

FORTHERELISH

olive oil 1 tbsp

garlic 2cloves,crushed

whole blanched almonds 50g,

finelychopped

red chilli 1, seededandfinelychopped

tomatoes 250g,diced

light soft brown sugar 50g

red wine vinegar 50g

whole roasted peppers3, fromajar

■ Fortherelish,heattheoil inamedium

fryingpan, thenaddthegarlicandalmonds

andgently fryuntil theystart toturngolden.

Stir inthechilli foraminute, followedbythe

tomatoes,sugarandvinegar.Simmerfor

15minutesuntil thetomatoesaresoftened

andsticky.Wipethepeppersofanyseeds,

dice, thenstir intothetomatoeswithsome

seasoningandleaveatroomtemperature.

■ Boilabigsaucepanofwater.Chopthe

cauliflowersoyouendupwithamixofvery

small floretsandsomefinerstuff.Addto

thewater,andboil for3minutesthendrain

immediately.Tipback intothepanovera low

heatanddryoutforafewminutes.

■ Puttheflourandagoodamountofsalt

inamixingbowl.Graduallymix intheeggs

tomakeasmoothbatter.Stir inthegrated

anddicedcheese,springonions,parsley

andlemonzest, thenverygently fold

throughthecookedcauliflower.

■ Puttheovenonlowsoyoucankeep

thefritterswarmasyoufry inbatches.Heat

adrizzleofoil inanon-stickfryingpan, then

addspoonfulsof themixturetomake

roughly5cmroundfritters.Fryfor3-5

minutesuntilgoldenunderneathandthe

batter looks justsetonthetop, thenflipover

andpressdownwithafishslicetosquash

anybigcauliflowerbits.Cookforanother

3-5minutesuntilgolden, thenkeepwarm

onanoventraywhileyoufrytherest.

Scatterwitha littlemoresalt,andservewith

lemonwedgesandtherelish.

■ PER SERVING 623 kcals, protein 28.3g, carbs

38.2g, fat 39.7g, sat fat 17.1g, fibre 4.2g, salt 1.4g

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Inspired bySHABAB, LEEDSGobi(cauliflower)appearsinvariousguises

onthemenuatShabab.Ourpickisthephool

gobiadrak;cauliflowerfloretswithfreshginger

andcoriander.Thisislight,butrichinflavour

andin-housegrindingofthespicesreallymakes

adifference.Makeitforfriendsforarelaxed

Fridaynightsupper.(shabab.uk.com)

TRY OUR VERSION

Cauliflower andginger curry45 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY

sunflower or vegetable oil 1 tbsp

onion 1, finelychopped

ginger 1 tbspgrated,plus 1heapedtbsp

cut intofinematchsticks

curry leaves 10

lemongrass 1stick,bruisedwitharollingpin

mild curry powder 1 tbsp

black mustard seeds 2tsp

ground coriander 2tsp

ground tumeric 1 tsp

coconut milk 400gcan

cauliflower 1,broken intosmall

floretsandstalkcut intobatons

coriander handfulof leaves, toserve

basmati rice, warm chapatis, yoghurt

or mango chutney toserve

■ Heattheoil inasmallcasseroledishor

fryingpanwitha lid.Addtheonionsand

bothtypesofgingerandfrygentlyuntil

softenedbutnotcoloured.Addthecurry

leaves, lemongrassandspicesandfryfor

acoupleofminutesuntil fragrant.Stir inthe

coconutmilkwithahalfacanofwater, then

coverandsimmerfor20minutes.

■ Uncover,stir inthecauliflowerand

simmer(uncovered) for5-10minutesuntil

thecauliflower is tender.Seasonwell, then

servescatteredwithsomecoriander leaves,

basmati rice,warmedchapatis,yoghurtand

spoonfulsofyourfavouritemangochutney.

■ PER SERVING 279 kcals, protein 7.8g, carbs

11.9g, fat23g,satfat 15.8g, fibre5.4g,salt0.2g

THREE OTHER IDEAS TO TRY

Spiced cauliflower soup■ Serves 4

Simmer1roughlychoppedcauliflower,

1peeledanddicedeatingapple,200gdiced

potatoand2tbspmildcurry powder in

1 litrevegetable stockuntilall theveg is

tender.Blitzuntil super

smoothwithahandblender

–addingasplashmorewaterto

getaniceconsistency, thenseason

andeatwithtoastednaan bread.

Cauliflower carpacciowith lemon dressing■ Serves 2

Slice 1minicaulifloweronamandolin

andtosswithasmallhandfulofroughly

choppedflatparsley.Makeadressingwith

thezest& juiceof 1 lemon,2 tbspolive oil,

1 tspDijon mustard, 1 crushedgarlicclove,

1 tbsprinsedcapersandagoodpinch

ofsugar.Tossthroughthecauliflower.

Quick cauliflower gratin■ Serves 6

Boil 1 large,whole caulifloweruntil just

tender, thensit inasmallbakingdish.Mix

300mlcrème fraîchewith100ggrated

parmesanandseasoningandusetotopthe

cauli, thenscatterwithmoreparmesanand

25gdried breadcrumbs.Drizzlewitholive

oilandgrilluntilgoldenandbubbling.

MAKEAHEAD

eat in/everyday

MARCH 2014 O 83WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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eat in/everyday

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form

or

ehealthyrecipesvisit

lulusnotes.com

✴ SPICED CHICKEN WITHSWEET POTATO WEDGES

✴ PURPLE SPROUTING BROCCOLI WITHPANCETTA AND SOFT-BOILED EGGS

✴ SPINACH AND FETA QUESADILLASWITH TOMATO SALSA

✴ GINGER AND PORK PATTIESWITH NOODLES

SLIMMERDINNERSLow-calorieandlow-fatmealsRecipesANNAGLOVERPhotographsDAVIDMUNNS

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eat in/everyday

86 O MARCH 2014

Ginger and pork patties with noodles30 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY

ginger thumb-sizedpiece,grated

1,beaten

1, seededanddiced

pak choy toserve

■ Mixtheporkmince,half thespring

onions,ginger, 1 tspsoysauceandthe

eggtogether.Formintotwelvesmallpatties

andchill.Cookthenoodlesanddrain.Heat

1 tspofgroundnutoil inafryingpanandfry

eachsideuntilbrownedandcookedthrough.

Heatanothertspoil in thepanandfrythe

remainingspringonionandchilli for 1minute.Addthe

noodles, tossingwith 1 tbspsoysauceandadashofrice

wine.Servewiththepattiesandsteamedpakchoy.

■ PER SERVING 343 kcals, protein 28.7g , carbs 19.7g, fat 16.3g, sat

fat 5.2g, fibre 1.8g, salt 1.3g

Spiced chicken withsweet potato wedges30 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY

garlic powder 1 tsp

cayenne pepper 1 tsp

paprika 1 tsp

ground cumin 1 tsp

olive oil

skinless chicken breasts2

sweet potato 1 large,washed

andcut intowedges

green salad toserve

■ Heattheovento200C/fan

180C/gas6.Mixthegarlic

powderandspiceswith2tsp

oliveoil tomakeapasteand

season.Flattenthechicken

betweensheetsofclingfilmuntil

1cmthickthenrubthepaste intothe

chicken, leavetomarinate.Tossthe

sweetpotatowedges in 1 tbspoliveoil

andseason.Tipontoabakingtrayandcook

for35-40minutesuntil cookedandcrisponthe

outside.Grill thechickenfor4minutesonbothsides

until cookedthrough.Servewithsalad.

■ PER SERVING 287 kcals, protein 31.8g , carbs 16.8g, fat 10.8g,

sat fat 1.7g, fibre 2.6g, salt 0.3g

Spinach and feta quesadillaswith tomato salsa20 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY

vine tomatoes4,seededanddiced

red onion 1/2,diced

red chilli 1, seededanddiced

coriander 1/2 bunch, roughlychopped

red wine vinegar 1 tsp

lime 1/2, juiced

low-fat feta 75g,crumbled

spring onions 2,diced

spinach200g,wiltedand

squeezeddry

flour tortillas4large

■ Mixthetomatoes,onion,

chilliandcoriandertogetherwith

thevinegarandlimejuice.Season

well.Mixtogetherthefeta,spring

onions,spinachandseason.Divide

thefetamixontotwotortillas,and

pressdownanothertortillasonto

each.Dryfryeachquesadillauntilthe

undersideisgolden,thecheeseismelting

andtheonionsaresoft.Flipthetortillasover

andfryontheothersideuntilcookedthrough.

■ PER SERVING 345 kcals, protein 16.8g , carbs

55.2g, fat 6.6g, sat fat 4.3g, fibre 6.3g, salt 1.7g

Purple sprouting broccoli withpancetta and soft-boiled eggs

30 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY

pancetta 70g,diced

purple sprouting broccoli 300g, trimmed

eggs3

balsamic vinegar 1 tsp

parmesanshavingstoserve

crusty bread toserve

■ Frythepancettaona lowheatfor 10

minutesuntil thefathasmeltedandthe

cubesarecrisp.Drainonkitchentowels.

Cookthebroccoli insaltedboilingwater

for4minutesuntil tender, thenplunge

into icedwatertostop itcooking.Cook

theeggs intheboilingwaterfor7

minutes(forsoftboiled)or longer ifyou

like,andcoolundercoldwater.Shelland

halvetheeggs,arrangethebroccolion

twoplateswiththeeggsandpancetta.

Topwithafewparmesanshavings.Serve

withcrustybread.

■ PER SERVING 292 kcals, protein 21.3g , carbs 2g,

fat 22g, sat fat 7.6g, fibre 3.5g, salt 1.6g

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Sausages with sageand butternut

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Quick black bean chilli25 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY

cooking chorizo2largeor4small

sausages, roughlychopped

onion 1, finelychopped

red pepper 1, seededandsliced

chipotle paste 1 tsp(ormore if

it’snotverystrong)

chopped tomatoes400gtin

black beans 1 tinorcarton,drained

lime 1,halved

corianderahandful,chopped

soured cream toserve

rice or tortillas toserve

■ Putthechorizo inacoldpanandbring

slowlytoahighheatsotheoilmeltsoutof

thechorizo.Tip intheonionandpepperand

fryuntil soft.Addthechipotlepasteandfry

foraminutethenaddtomatoesandcook

for5minutesmore.Addtheblackbeansand

asplashofwater ifyouneedtountilyou

haveathicksauce.Heateverythingthrough,

seasonandservewithriceortortillas, the

limesqueezedoverandthecorianderand

souredcreamontop.

■ PER SERVING 493 kcals, protein 30.8g , carbs

33.4g, fat 26.4g, sat fat 10.6g, fibre 10g, salt 2.5g

Chicken paillardwith red peppers30 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY

olive oil

red peppers 2,seededandsliced

garlic 1clove,peeledandthinlysliced

anchovies 2,roughlychopped

flat-leaf parsley asmallbunch,

roughlychopped

lemon 1,halved

skinless chicken breast fillets2

■ Heatalittleoliveoilandfrytheredpeppers

untiltheyaresoftandtoastedattheedges.

Addthegarlicandstir,thenaddtheanchovies

andcookfor5minutesbeforestiringthrough

theparsleyandsqueezingoversomelemon.

Season.Meanwhile,halvethechickenfillets

horizontally,putthembetweensheetsofcling

filmandbashthemoutwitharollingpinuntil

thin.Brushwithoil,seasonwellandthenfry

until justcookedthrough.Squeezeoverthe

remaininglemonandservewiththepeppers.

■ PER SERVING 224 kcals, protein 33g , carbs

10.5g, fat 5.5g, sat fat 1g, fibre 4.5g, salt 0.5g

Singapore crab noodles15 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY

vermicelli noodles70g

oil

turmerica largepinch

spring onions 2, finelysliced

red chilli 1, finelychopped

beansprouts 150g

egg 1

soy sauce toseason

crabmeat 100g

peanuts 1 tbsp, toastedand

choppedtoserve

■ Soakthenoodles,drainandput inabowl.

Heata littleoil inapan,addapinchof

turmericandthespringonionsandfry

brieflybeforeaddingthechilliandbean

sproutsandcookingforafurtherminute.

Tipontothehotnoodles.Beattheegglightly

andtip it intothehotpan.Cookuntil set,

roughupwithaforkandthentipontothe

noodles.Tosstogetherandseasonwithsoy

sauceandpepperthenaddthecrabmeat.

Topwithchoppedpeanutstoserve.

■ PER SERVING 309 kcals, protein 20.4g , carbs

30.5g, fat 11.1g, sat fat 2.1g, fibre 1.7g, salt 1.1g

Very green soup20 minutes ■ Serves 2 ■ EASY

onion 1, roughlychopped

spring onions2,roughlychopped

oil

kale 200g,woodystalksremoved

andchopped

rocket70gbag

chicken orvegetable stock600ml

fresh pesto 2tbsp

■ Puttheonionandspringonion ina

saucepanwitha littleoilandfrygentlyuntil

soft.Addthekale, rocketandstockandbring

toasimmer.Cookfor5minutesandthen

whizztoapurée.Seasonwellandstir

throughthepestotoserve.

■ PER SERVING 223 kcals, protein 16.1g , carbs

16.8g, fat 9.7g, sat fat 1.6g, fibre 3.9g, salt 1.3g

Curried cauliflower rice15 minutes ■ Serves 3 ■ EASY

garam masala 1 tbsp

chilli flakesapinch

cauliflower 1,broken intoflorets

oil

onion 1,halvedandsliced

cooked basmati rice250g(useapouch

ofready-cooked ifyou like)

coriander 1handful,chopped

black mustard seeds 1 tsp

turmericapinch

plain yoghurt 3-4tbsp

■ Putthespices inabowlwiththe

cauliflower,aslugofoilandtheonionand

tosstogether.Seasonwell, tip intoafrying

panandputona lid.Fryfor5minutes,

shakingthepaneverynowandthenuntil

thecauliflowerandonionstart tosoftenand

toastattheedges.Takeoff the lidwhenit is

soft todriveoffanysteam.Addthericeand

stiruntilheatedthrough.

■ Heata littlemoreoil inasmallpanand

addthemustardseedsandturmeric.Heat

until theseedspopthentipovertherice,add

spoonfulsofyoghurtandtopwithcoriander.

■ PER SERVING 277 kcals, protein 12.3g , carbs

37.7g, fat 9.1g, sat fat 1.8g, fibre 6.3g, salt 0.3g

88 O MARCH 2014

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QUICKFIXES

form

orequickrecipes

visitlulusnotes.com

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eat in/everyday

MARCH 2014 O 89

Very green soup

Chicken paillardwith red peppers

Curriedcauliflower rice

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Superdrug,Holland & Barrett,GNC,chemists,healthstores, supermarkets & www.vitabiotics.comVitamin supplements may benefit those with nutritionally inadequate diets.*(IRI value data.52 w/e 13 Jul,13).

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eatoutaway

RestaurateurRussell Normanat The RedLion, Kent(page 97)

Pro vs punter at The Magazine ✴ ‘Dinner-jumping’ in the Black Forest

✴ 11 great pubs around the UK ✴Where to eat bun bo in Vietnam ✴Rome’s best trattoria

&

Eating out is one of life’s great pleasures – when youget it right! We’re here to make sure you find thebest in the UK and abroad. For this pub-inspired

issue, top chefs and restaurateurs tell us about theirfavourite watering holes from Padstow to Leith, and

we’ve found four pubs where you can stay thenight, too (with a couple of special offers just forO readers). Our star travel writer, Marina

O’Loughlin, hunts out the Black Forest’s food hotspots, plus, don’t go to Rome without our local food

expert’s weekend guide.

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The Magazine is an ultra-modern addition to theSerpentine Gallery in London’s Kensington Gardens.With its bold sci-fi front, the restaurant stands outfrom the gallery’s traditional red brick façade.Thebuilding was designed by award-winning architectZaha Hadid and it’s a sleek space, in greys and whiteswith splashes of lime green. Berlin-born chef OliverLange has a love of Japanese food (even being knownby the nickname ‘Olly-san’) and his modernEuropean menu is Asian influenced. À la carte,starters range from sushi to grills such as robata lambtartar with aubergine and cornbread, while maincourses include Dingley Dell pork, carrots and plum.There is also a good-value set lunch menu with twocourses for £20 and three for £25.■ Serpentine Sackler Gallery,Kensington Gardens,London,W2 (020 7298 7552;magazine-restaurant.co.uk)

SRA RATING 7/10The Magazine achieved its bestsustainability rating for meat-sourcing,as much of the produce is organic andlocal.The lowest score was for fishsourcing, and the SRA would recommendimplementing a sustainable supplier agreement.The restaurant should look to assess its fish againstthe criteria set out by the Marine ConservationSociety as the menu includes seafood and sashimi.The Magazine caters well for vegetarians and iscommunicates its sustainable, ethical stance well.It’s fortunate to be in a building created withenvironmental forethought, and the SRA commendsit for separating and recycling its food waste.

There was nothing appallinglywrong with the food, no leatherypieces of steak, or rancid scrapsof fish, but it was distinctlyunmemorable and seeminglyunable to decide whether it wasAsian or European. Now there’snothing wrong with attemptingto do both but here pretty muchevery dish underwhelmed. Sushiwas notable only for the blob offresh wasabi, grated at the table,which cost a whopping £4. Greatto see a real wasabi root, but whygo to all that trouble when theactual sushi is merely a notchabove average?

Thai beef salad, £15, was packedwith wonderful slices of rare,properly bosky beef and had decentchilli heat.While yuzu juice is aninteresting addition to this Siameseclassic, it’s used with an over-heavy

Zingy elderberry sour cocktailswere the perfect accompanimentto a spot of people watching.At£10, they’re pricey, but a must.I started with delicious seafoodsushi, £12.The portion was on thelarge side but I was happy. Freshwasabi was grated at the table andwas far superior to any paste. Myhusband ordered the lamb tartarbut was served the baby beetsinstead and at an overpriced£11, he felt it was style oversubstance.The fillet of beef, £39,was exquisitely tender but lackedflavour and was completelyoverpowered by the yakiniku saucewhich was very salty and spoiledthe taste of the whole dish.A mainof cod was well cooked, flavourfuland looked beautiful, although itlacked texture. Because the maincourses arrived very swiftly after thestarters, we both felt like we had

With the exception ofa wonderful sommelier,service was sweet butrather vague.Wine listswere promised butnever materialized,with wine glasses leftmournfully unfilled.Despite the restaurantbeing fairly empty ona weekday lunch time,trying to catch theattention of the staffcould be testing. Itwasn’t that the frontof house was actuallybad, just a touchamateur.Tap waterwasn’t offered andI wasn’t recognised.

As we excitedly enteredthe grounds of thegallery, the modernglass restauranttwinkled withcandlelight.TheMagazine has a cool,space-age feel and wewere welcomed intoits cavernous butintimate space byfriendly staff. Our tablefor two was next to thepass, but sadly, thesleek white wall thatwrapped around thekitchen was too highfor us to be able tosee the theatre of thecooking.Tap waterwas provided.

Tom Parker Bowles

is aTV presenter,food writer andrestaurant critic. Hehas written four booksabout food, the mostrecent of which isLet’s Eat:Recipes frommy kitchen notebook(Pavilion, £25),on sale now.

Doesanaveragedinerreachthesameconclusionsaboutrestaurantsasafoodpro,whomaygetspecial treatment ifrecognised?*TomParkerBowlesandO readerAnnaInmancomparenotesonTheMagazine

Anna Inman is apre-sales bid directorfrom Hertfordshire.Her favourite typesof food are modernBritish and French.Her best eating outexperience was atGordon Ramsay’sHospital Road andher guilty pleasureis Cadbury’schocolate fingers.

THE PUNTER

Want to review arestaurant? For a chanceto beO’s next punter,join our reader panel atimmediateinsiders.com

92 O MARCH 2014

provspunterTHE FOODSERVICETHE PRO

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FOOD 6/10ATMOSPHERE 7/10SERVICE 6/10

TOM’S TOTAL 19/30

The design, cool vibe,fantastic cocktails, winelist and service werehighlights.The music,provided by twobored looking DJs,was annoying andthe over seasonedfood let TheMagazine down.Anna’s bill for

two includingservice cameto £120.66

The room is magnificentand you can gaze out atthe distant form of the

food simply doesn’t liveup to its surroundings.Ingredients are topnotch but, in prettymuch everydish, they’resmothered

bullying flavours.There’stalent here,but at the moment, there’slittle reason to return.Tom’s bill for two including 12.5%service was £171.

hand and dominates pretty muchevery other flavour.The same istrue of the hamachi sashimi, £14.The fish is beautifully fresh(although hardly a sashimi cut),but any delicacy is drowned byan aggressively sharp sauce.

Pork donburi, £20, was easily thebest dish, the meat soft and rich,and rice wallowing in a deeplyflavoured broth.An oozing eggadds its considerable charms, whilepickles supplied a nicely acidic kick.It could hold its head up high ineven the most traditional ofJapanese restaurants. It’s a shamethat everything was not this assured.

A great hunk of cod, £20, waswell cooked too, but the sauce wascloyingly creamy.And dull. Onemouthful was enough – little morethan an edible shrug.

indigestion. Desserts arrived threeminutes after ordering. I opted forthe chocolate surprise, £9.Thesurprise was an unnecessaryaddition of salt to an otherwiseperfectly fluffy mousse and caramelsauce. (It was later removed fromthe bill, along with two coffees, afterI mentioned the salt). My husband’sapple with oak smoked ice cream,£8, looked great, but he dived inonly to find that a simple applecrumble would have been better.If we had not had an espresso, wewould have finished our meal in justover an hour; it felt very rushed.However, I imagine the speed ofservice would be appreciated bylunch-time diners.

FOOD 5/10ATMOSPHERE 8/10SERVICE 8/10

ANNA’S TOTAL21/30

THE GINGER PIG, SUSSEX‘The Ginger Pig used to be a rundown boozernearmyparents’

house inHoveanditwasexcitingwatching itchangeintoan

informalandrelaxedgastropub.

‘The quality of the food and service puts it at the top of my

list.Beef, lambandporkareall locallysourcedandtheyserve

Harvey’sofLewesbeer. It’s reallyreasonablypricedandalsowell

positionedforabracingwalkalongtheseafrontafter lunch.

‘I’ll normally order the fishcake made almost entirely of

peeled brown shrimps –delicious! If it’snotonthemenuI’ll

goforthe35-day-dry-agedribeye,£19.50,withchipscooked

indripping,orgamepie,£14.50,withgreatpastryandaromatic

spicedredcabbage.There’salsoaverygoodchocolatetart,

£7,andanexcellentcrèmebrûlée.

‘When we asked if we if we could bring our cocker spaniel

puppy, it wasn’t a problem – it’salwayshandytoknowif

restaurantsallowdogs,especiallyas I tendtovisitwithmyfamily

andparents.

‘My average spend? Around£40to£45perperson.’

(thegingerpigpub.co.uk)

TOP TABLES OUTSIDETHE CAPITALMatthew Harris is thechef

directorof iconicChelsea

restaurantBibendum(bibendum.

co.uk).ThemenuisclassicFrench,

usingfirst-classseasonal

ingredients.Downstairs there’san

oysterbarandarelaxedcafe,

servingbreakfastand lunch.

TOTALSCORE40/60

anywherebut London

THE BOTTOM LINE

MARCH 2014 O 93

eat out/review

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NATHAN OUTLAW OFRESTAURANT NATHAN OUTLAWTHE SAFE HARBOUR,FOWEY(safe-harbour-inn.co.uk)Once a Fowey local himself, NathanOutlaw (nathan-outlaw.com) was awareofThe Safe Harbour, but first visited thepub when it was taken over by hismother-in-law.Although, he is eager topoint out; ‘It’s a good pub. I’d still go,even if we weren’t related’.

He describes the interior as‘comfortable, cosy and unpretentious,’but the real highlight at this 19th centurycoaching inn is that it sits at the top ofa hill, with views over the town.

‘Graham Allen is the chef. His styleis traditional, as it should be. He servesgood, honest plates of food – dishes thatare everyone’s favourites. I usually go forwhatever the homemade pie of the dayis, with a pint of St.Austell Brewery’sTribute beer.’

What sets it apart, says Nathan, is thatthere are no gimmicks. ‘It’s a true localand offers a haven where you can go andhave a quiet pint and a decent meal. It hasalso won awards for its cask beer and youcan play darts!’

SHOULD PUBS…Welcome children YES (during the day)

Allow dogs YES

Serve cocktails NO

Show sports on TV YES (but not so that

everyone has to watch)

Have live music YES (as long as it’s good)

TIM ALLEN OFLAUNCESTON PLACETHE BUILDER’S ARMS,KENSINGTON(thebuildersarmskensington.co.uk)Being able to nip out for a pint after workjust down the road is a ‘big help’ saysTimAllen, head chef at Michelin-starredLaunceston Place (launcestonplace-restaurant.co.uk).Yorkshire-bornTimhas worked at some very prestigiousrestaurants includingWhatley Manor andThe Landmark, so it’s not surprising thathis favourite pub,The Builder’s, is smarterthan your average local. ‘It’s a Georgianbuilding that looks both grand and friendly,the interior is mainly wooden,with bigbenches as well as cosy leather chairs.’

Inside there’s a mix of open plan spacesand more private areas, and it also featuressome quirky design touches, most notablythe tiled palm trees behind the bar.

‘It’s a pub to socialise in and enjoya good beer’ saysTim. ‘They have greatguest beers; typically I’ll go for a SierraNevada or India Pale Ale.They also doa good burger.’ Trealy Farm charcuterie,cider and tarragon-battered cod and BlackForest kirsch trifle are highlights, as is thetraditional Sunday roast.

While the pub welcomes everyone,Timdoesn’t recommend taking the family ona Friday night, although landlord Rob ispretty tolerant. ‘I recently met up withsome friends I’ve not seen for 15 years.They haven’t changed and made completefools of themselves, but Rob is cool, he’sseen it all!’

SHOULD PUBS…Welcome children YES

Allow dogs YES

Serve cocktails YES

Show sports on TV YES

Have live music YES/NO (I love live music,

but it really depends on the pub)

94 O MARCH 2014

Aftera longshift inthekitchen,oronararedayoff, thesechefsandrestaurateursheadtothepub.Weaskthemtogetthedrinks inWordsDANIELLETHEUNISSEN PortraitsDAVIDCOTSWORTH

T me barattheO

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Tim Allen and landlord Rob

Powell at The Builder’s Arms

eat out/restaurant spy

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NEIL FORBES OFCAFÉ ST HONORÉTHE KING’S WARK,LEITH(thekingswark.com)Café St Honoré (cafesthonore.com) isa romantic Parisian restaurant in the heartof Edinburgh, but head chef Neil Forbesstumbled across his now favourite pub‘Around 20 years ago, while I was stillworking onThe Royal Scotsman train.The King’sWark was around the cornerfrom the train station office.’ Its appealwas strengthened by the fact that ithappens to be within walking distancefrom Neil’s house.

The 15th century pub does a ‘legendarySunday brunch’, which is just one of themany reasons why Neil loves it. ‘There’san open fire, characterful rickety oldchairs, a great selection of Scottish beers,and the crispiest fish and chips. Oh, andthey have candles in wine bottles, I likethose, too.’

‘Since I live in Edinburgh, I have toorder a Deuchars IPA.A simple, elegantand hoppy delight in a glass.To go withit, I will normally have a devilishly goodbowl of steaming mussels with chips.’ Butif you want something a little more filling,you can always go for an Aberdeen Angusrib-eye steak.

It’s a proper Scottish pub, so much so,says Neil, that it’s the one place he ‘alwaystakes family and friends to show them thereal Leith.’

SHOULD PUBS…Welcome children YES

Allow dogs NO

Serve cocktails YES

Show sports on TV NO

Have live music YES (but not too loud)

GARETH JONES OFMR COOPER’S HOUSE & GARDENTHE OLD HARKERSARMS, CHESTER(brunningandprice.co.uk/harkers)According to Gareth Jones,The OldHarkers Arms has the whole package.‘A relaxed atmosphere, great food andbrilliant location. It’s exactly what I thinka pub should be, with perfectly-pulledchilled lager and brilliant pies.’

Gareth is the head chef at SimonRogan’s Mr Cooper’s House & Garden(mrcoopershouseandgarden.co.uk) inThe Midland Hotel in Manchester. It’sa beautiful restaurant split into the plush‘house’ room and calming ‘garden’ (alsoindoors), dotted here and there withfoliage, includinga central tree feature.The Old HarkersArms, though, is where he goes to relax.‘It’s located in an old warehouse,canal-side in Chester. In the summer, it’sgreat to sit outside and watch the boatspass by and in the winter it’s lovely andcosy inside.’

While his own menu is quite bold, whenhe heads to the pub, Gareth goes formore classic dishes. ‘Jeremy Houlbrookis the head chef and his food is traditionalEnglish pub grub, with a few internationaldishes on the menu, too. I usually havethe pie of the day or fish and chips –without the mushy peas though!’ For lesstraditional pub food, go for a pulled porksalad, £11.95, with red cabbage ’slaw,avocado and crispy tortilla or forsomething lighter, the crab linguine, £9.75.

SHOULD PUBS…Welcome children NO

Allow dogs YES

Serve cocktails NO

Show sports on TV NO

Have live music DON’T MIND

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Gareth Jones at

The Old Harkers Arms

eat out/restaurant spy

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Smoked haddock fishcake

at The Jolly Sailor

RUSSELL NORMAN OFTHE APE & BIRDTHE RED LION,STODMARSH(theredlionstodmarsh.com)Towards the end of 2013, restaurateurRussell Norman (the man behind Polpoand Spuntino) opened his first pub,TheApe and Bird (apeandbird.com), in theWest End. His take on a pub mixes thetraditional (green leather banquettes) withthe new (industrial lighting and craft beer).The same could be said of the menu,where classics such as sausage and mash sithappily alongside truffled cheesy fries anda wild mushroom and chestnut cottage pie.You can also expect to find a goodselection of desserts, includingbannofeebocker glory or sticky datepudding with ice cream (both £7). On arare day off, you’ll find Russell atThe RedLion in Stodmarsh, the appeal of which isobvious; ‘it’s a beautiful and traditionalwhite clapboard and red brick building,inside there are beams, timber floors andwhite wattle and daub.There’s also big firein winter, cosy tables and some of thedoors have a pulley system that usestrumpets as weights.’ The menu is easyto pick from, with its traditional pastrypies and sandwiches or more excitingoptions of roast venison loin andslow-roasted pork belly.

Stodmarsh is on the StourValleyWalkin Kent and part of the draw, says Russell,is that it’s not very big; ‘as well as the pub,the village has cows, some very ugly geese,a few houses and a church – that’s about it.’

Along with ‘really solid cooking’ and‘proper beer’, this countryside pub is alsodog friendly. ‘The first time we took ourdog, Monkey, she went mental at thesmell of all the good food. I had to wrapher in my coat and appease her with theoccasional potato.’

SHOULD PUBS…Welcome children YES (during the day)

Allow dogs YES

Serve cocktails DON’T MIND

Show sports on TV NO, NO, NO!

Have live music OCCASIONALLY

CHRIS GOLDINGOF APEROTHE JOLLY SAILOR,ORFORD(jollysailororford.co.uk)Apero (aperorestaurantandbar.com) isa chic bar and restaurant in London’sTheAmpersand Hotel and head chef ChrisGolding creates imaginative,unpretentious food that makes the mostof British seasonal produce.This alsoseems to be the ethos at his favourite pub,The Jolly Sailor, where ‘the menu issimple and uses seasonal, local produce,fish is caught locally and meat is fromnearby farms.Aspall cider is brewed justthree miles down the road.’The variedmenu covers everything from starters andsnacks to salads, platters and mains andtraditional pub food sits alongside moreinteresting dishes, suchas wholeshell mussels.

It’s somewhere he’s been going to fora number of years. ‘My nan and grandadused to take me there as a kid. It’s actuallyaround 200 years old, has a thatched roofand the great thing about it is that it hasn’tchanged in years.There are noTVs ormusic, just nice food and drink withpeople sitting around talking.’

‘I remember visiting with my three sisterswhen we were kids, sitting around a bigwooden table eating pork scratchings andlistening to my grandad’s bad jokes.’

The pub seems as friendly andwelcoming as the name suggests, andcaters for everyone. ‘It’s a great mix ofpeople, families on holiday, locals, youngand old,’ says Chris, and has that keyingredient of every good local; ‘thelandlord is very friendly.’

SHOULD PUBS…Welcome children YES

Allow dogs YES

Serve cocktails NO

Show sports on TV NO

Have live music NO

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Russell Norman at

The Red Lion

eat out/restaurant spy

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eat out/restaurant spy

100 O MARCH 2014

MARK SARGEANT OFPLUM + SPILT MILKTHE FIVE BELLS,BRABOURNE(fivebellsinnbrabourne.com)‘The Five Bells in Brabourne, Kent,is an absolute gem of a pub in the mostquintessentially Kentish village you canimagine,’ says Mark. ‘With rolling rapefields and thatched cottages, it’s anabsolutely beautiful place.’

As chef director of Plum + Spilt Millk(plumandspiltmilk.com), Mark Sargeantoversees a menu that brings beautifulBritish ingredients to the fore, and thatpartially explains his love of this pub.‘Everything is local, including the ales.They do classic pub food, black pudding,scotch eggs, roast dinners and beautifulfish. I usually have the gamekeeper’slunch of game pie, pork sausage, crustycob, celery, and local pickles.To wash it alldown, a pint of one of the local ales thatare on.’

Mark foundThe Five Bells throughfriends who live down the road, and whileit’s a traditional-looking pub on the

outside, it’s anything but on the inside.‘Owned by an interior designer, the pubhas a stunning atmosphere. It’s only veryslightly modern, but it keeps all thecharacter of a classic pub with open firesand brass tables.There’s even an oldbutcher’s block in use as a table, and theyhave a small deli inside, too.’

SHOULD PUBS…Welcome children YES

Allow dogs NO

Serve cocktails YES

Show sports on TV NO

Have live music YES

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ROSE & CROWNThis buzzing pub set onWarwick’s MarketPlace has 13 en-suite rooms; five upstairs andeight newly opened in an adjacent 17thcentury house. Roll top baths and a palate ofcool greens and greys make these a classy act.The menu is equally confident, withchef Rob Hartwell making the most ofseasonal produce. Isle of Man scallopson a celeriac salad were rich withcrumbles of black pudding (£8.50)and their game terrine with duckcrackling salad was hearty (£7). Steaksfrom award-winning butcher,AubreyAllen are recommended, as are dailyspecials such as confit of lamb bellywith dauphinoise (£15.50) – perfectwith a smooth primitivo.STAY THERE Double rooms from£85 including breakfast.(roseandcrownwarwick.co.uk)

THE EBRINGTON ARMSThis multiple CAMRA-award-winning pubis set deep in the folds of the NorthCotswolds. Dating from the early 17th

century, you’d forgive this real-ale inn if itfavoured the traditional, so thecontemporary feel inside the old Cotswoldstone walls is a pleasant surprise.There areoak floors and muted tones in thecomfortable rooms – but this is high quality,hand-wrought modern rather than stuffilytraditional.The decanter of sherry providedon arrival is a lovely touch too.The bluecheese soufflé (£6) and foie gras parfait (£6)are delicious, while megrim sole (£16) andonglet steak (£18) are excellent mains – thechocolate and almond brownie (£6) finishedoff the meal with a salty-sweet fog.STAY THERE Double rooms from £150,including breakfast (theebringtonarms.co.uk).

THE WHITE HEARTA recent renovation allows this 16th

century inn’s quirks to shine through buteclectic, carefully sourced décor like thefour-poster beds and antique furnituregives this pub a on-trend feel. In winter,tuck yourself away at a table next to thefire; the pub’s courtyard is a great spaceto linger over an aperitif in warmer weather.The menu draws from Somerset’s bestsuppliers but has a distinctly Mediterraneanfeel.A meat-sharing board to start includeswafer-thin duck ham and cheese and baconcroquettes (£12.50). Mains featureWedmore lamb, Cornish hake andGloucester Old Spot.A stunning specialof pan-fried pork chop with orange, thymeand roasted potatoes (£16) is not to bemissed if it is available.STAY THERE Double rooms from £85(whitehartsomerton.com).

WILD RABBITStripped wood, muted colours andimmaculately dressed, clued-up staff make thisrefurbished Gloucestershire pub far from yourtypical country boozer. Showcasing localproduce, the bar stocks Cotswold gin andvodka as well as Cotswold Brewery beers.Thedining room has an open kitchen with Jospergrill as well as a charcuterie station and themenu features modern pub classics such asGloucester Old Spot with toffee apple puréefor two (£40) and steaks with hand-cut chips(from £18.50). Bedrooms feature plenty ofquirky bedside reading (NationalTrust guideand cookbooks), Bamford toiletries, robes and

crisp bedlinen. Perfection.STAY THERE A smalldouble starts from £95per night. Dogs welcomeat an additional cost.(thewildrabbit.co.uk)

BitesizeBREAKS

Hot pubs withcool rooms*see page 116 for offer details

MARCH 2014 O 101

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OOFFERS*

OOFFERS*

eat away/pubs

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Postcardfromthe

I’ve often suspected that there areparts of the world situated on thefood equivalent of ley-lines.Theyattract more than their fair share

of amazing culinary experiences: I’mthinking Ludlow, Lyon and San Sebastián.

The tiny town of Baiersbronn must beon a particularly active one as it boasts anastonishing seven Michelin stars.We’resitting in the marvellously upholsteredBareiss restaurant (bareiss.com) in thehotel of the same name – an absolutetemple to comfort and what Germanscall ‘gemütlichkeit’: a delicious, rosy glowof wellbeing.

Germany has ten restaurants with threeMichelin stars; the UK has four, adisparity I was hoping to write off as theinevitable result of both Michelin andGermany’s predilection for formality andsoft furnishings. But there’s no doubt chefClaus-Peter Lumpp’s food deserves itsplace in the superstar pantheon. It is adazzling marriage of technique, gloriouslocal produce and luxury: cloud-softcaramelised sweetbreads on a white beanpurée scented with balsamic and vanilla;sole poached in olive oil till it’s the texture

of fondant;crisp sea basson a risottoof nuts witha vivid cidersauce.Thecloseness toStrasbourgmeans there’s

plenty of foie gras and the array of tinypuddings, seemingly a thousand intricateplays on chocolate, leaves us dazzled.And

that’s before the matching wines.All I can say is, rather drunkenly, ‘I loveGerman wine’.

Before we’ve even got to this, we’ve hadafternoon tea at HotelTraubeTonback(traube-tonbach.de) just up the road,another spa hotel that’s every bit asimposing, every bit as dedicated tocomfort and luxury as Bareiss. Cakescome from the kitchen of another tripleMichelin’ed restaurant, courtesy of chef,HaraldWohlfahrt: exquisite creations thatlook like woodland scenes with ‘pebbles’made from sugared nuts, liquid trufflecake lollipops, blackberry and almondslices. Our tea sommelier (oh yes) hascreated a blend to celebrate the famousSchwarzwalde kirschtorte, subtle notesof black cherry and chocolate. Of course:it’s Black Forest gateau.

So then we have to have the real thing.At the Café am Eck (cafe-am-eck.de),owner Georg Klumpp talks us throughthis iconic cake: blowsy, chocolateysponge; cream stiffened with sweet rouxso it keeps its shape; the cherries, sharp,not sugary; shavings of fine darkchocolate; improbable quantities of kirsch.It may be a cliché, but that’s because donewell, as it is here, it’s also a classic.

How on earth to blow away thosefood-induced cobwebs? How abouttaking off into the beautiful countryside…by Segway – a most unusual way tosightsee.We’re devastated to find out thatthe rain isn’t allowing us to sally forth,so instead we have ‘Swabian tapas’ inSegway boss Eric’s eccentric and lovelywhite pine Sankenbach SchwarzwaldidylleLodge (schwarzwaldidylle.de). Delicate

they ain’t: pungent sausages, vinegarypickles, black pudding, treacly sourdoughspread with bacon-studded lard. Oh, andbeer. Black Forest beer is making me veryhappy indeed: hoppy and fragrant.

In search of more, we traipse up abovethe deep, dark forest where the capercaillie(huge woodland grouse) roam, toGlasmännlehütte (glasmaennlehuette.de),an extraordinary joint – as if you’d beenwhisked into a Grimm fairytale.Asprawling gingerbread house, perhaps,offering rustic food, their own-brewedbeers and a view to knock socks off.

Less chi-chi than Baiersbronn andas cute as a snow globe scene, isSasbachwalden.This is Germany’s fruitgarden, alive with vines and cherry trees,and home to the famous Alde Gottwinery where we enjoy a riotous tasting– I particularly love their sekt: friskyGerman ‘champagne’. Our new friend,Alexander, takes us on a tour of thesurroundings, to vast wine barrels usedas a unique b&b; how gorgeous to wakeup in the middle of this magical, vine-cladcountryside.To hiking trails, punctuatedby little honesty bars at natural wells,where you can help yourself to schnapps– cherry? Artichoke? Fortification for thewalk ahead - how civilised.And then inthe evening, to a remarkableSasbachwalden pleasure: ‘dinner-jumping’ (dinner-jumping.de); fourdifferent courses enjoyed in four verydifferent restaurants.

There’s caraway-spiked onion tart andyoung, first-press wine at wood-panelledbourgeois hotel Engel; fish plates at ZumFässlewirt, where the décor seems to havebeen designed by a heavy-metal-lovingtroll; vast platters of smoky, velvety BlackForest ham and cheese-ladenFlammenkuchen at locals’ favouriteSaschwaller Burehus Holzwurm; andintricate desserts at Michelin-starredHotelTalmühle.What a trip.

It’s an inescapable fact that the seriouscooking comes out of hotels: there’s moreMichelin-starred indulgence atRestaurant Hotel Sackmann (hotel-sackmann.de).And kitsch? I reckon it wasinvented here.They don’t shy away froma server in full, elaborate national dresswithout a trace of irony.Who needsminimalism anyway?

‘Kitsch? I reckon it wasinvented here.They don’t shyaway from a server in full,elaborate national dress’

MARINA

O’LOUGHLIN

is The Guardian

Weekend’s

incognito

restaurant critic.

She flew with

German Wings;

return flights from

London Heathrow

to Stuttgart

from ¤99.98

(germanwings.com)

and stayed at

Bareiss Hotel;

double rooms from

£141 per night

(bariess.com).

Find more

information

at baden-

wuerttemberg.de

Black Forest

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Getbeyondthegâteau:MarinaO’Loughlinsniffsoutthebestfoodhotspotsinoneoftheworld’sgreatestculinarydestinations,uncoveringeverythingfrom‘dinner-jumping’tolocalfavouritesWordsMARINAO’LOUGHLIN PhotographsDAVIDTHOMAS

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eat away/black forest

MARCH 2014 O 103

Flammkuchen40 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY

Flammkuchenor ‘flamecake’ isakindof

bakedflatbreadtoppedwith lardons,onions

andcrèmefraiche(verysimilartotheAlsatian

tarteflambée).This isO’sversion.

strong bread flour 300g

fast action yeast 1 tsp

salt 1 tsp

olive oil 1 tbsp

smoked streaky bacon 150g,

cut intomatchsticks

butter

crème fraîche 4tbsp

nutmeg

onion 1 large,halvedandsliced

gruyere50g, finelygrated

■ Puttheflour inabowlwiththeyeastand

salt.Mixtheoliveoilwith200mlwarmwater.

Mixtoasoftdoughthentipontoafloured

surfaceandkneadfor5minutesuntil

smoothandelastic.Coverwithclingfilmand

leaveuntilyouhavemadethetoppings.

■ Heatanon-stickfryingpanandaddthe

baconandaknobofbutter.Fryfor5minutes

thenscoopoutandaddtheonions.Cook

until softandgolden.

■ Heattheovento230C/fan210C/gas8.

Dividethedoughinto2thenrolleachto

averythinovalandputeachonafloured

bakingtray.

■ Spreadeachbasewiththecrèmefraiche,

seasonwithsaltandagratingofnutmeg

thenscatteroverbacon,onionandcheese.

Bake intheovenforabout 15-20minutesor

untilbase is lightgoldenandcookedthrough.

Cookseparatelysoeachflammkuckengets

thefullamountofheat.Eathot.

■ PER SERVING 533 Kcal, 19.7g protein, 55.8g

carbs, 24g fat, 11g sat fat, 2.5g fibre, 2.7g salt

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/FX DVMJOBSZ IPMJEBZT n XJUI UIF FYQFSUT

MasterChef Travel is an inspiring new collection of culinary holidays, revealing the

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minded travellers. Including time with local culinary experts who share their passion

for cooking and who pass on an authentic understanding of regional cuisine, there is

also plenty of time for exploring many of the countries’ most captivating sights.

A number of tours feature MasterChef personalities, with trips in 2014 accompanied

by former MasterChef contestants.

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Craftbeer,whimsicalgelatoflavoursandtwistsonRomanclassicsareafewofthetrendsluringustoItaly’scapitalthisspringWordsKATIEPARLA MapPATRICKO’LEARY

reasons to visit15Rome

WEEKENDER

1At DalVerme (Via Luchino DalVerme 8, dalverme8.tumblr.com),a dimly-lit watering hole in Pigneto,

bartenders craft cocktails to eachcustomer’s palate.Try an Americanclassic like a sazerac or old-fashioned, orlet the bartender tweak iconic Europeancocktails to your taste (from €5).

2Andrea De Bellis, who openedhis eponymous pastry shop nearCampo de’ Fiori (Piazza del

Paradiso 56, pasticceriadebellis.com)in March, takes Roman dessert traditionsto the next level with his creativeconcoctions. Employing the highestquality ingredients, his signature friedcroissants and made-to-order millefoglie,are decadent, flaky homages to Frenchtradition (from €2).

3Swirl and sniff your way to Italianwine expertise with Vino Roma (Viain Selci 84G, vinoroma.com).At

this wine tasting studio in the Monti,trained sommeliers teach the basics ofdrinking and enjoying vino. Focus on

KatieParla is

a food historian,food critic, craftbeer expert andauthor of thebest-selling mobileapp Katie Parla’sRome, a curatedguide to the city’sbest drinkingand diningdestinations.❶ Please refer tomap on next page

regional specialities at ‘My Italians’tastings or toast to the weekend with‘Sparkling Saturdays’.Tastings from€42 per person.

4When in Rome, cook as theRomans do with Daniela del Balzo

(danielascookingschool.com).Her cooking classes begin in the NewTestaccio Market to buy fresh ingredientsfor the day’s lesson before retreating toher stunning apartment near the CircusMaximus where she teaches her tricks ofthe trade. Classes from €150 per person.

5Get a taste for Italy’s buddingItalian craft beer traditions atBirra+ in Pigneto (Via del

Pigneto 105, birrapiu.it). A rotatingselection of eight domestic and foreigndraughts entices casual drinkers (from€3.50), while connoisseurs come forrare bottles.Whiskey drinkers flockhere for the ever-growing list ofartisanal malts.

6 Rome may not be renownedfor its international cuisine,but Ethiopian restaurant,

Mesob (Via Prenestina 118, mesob.it),is the reason it definitely should be.Chef KukiTadese’s doro wot (a spicedchicken stew) and braised collard greenswill make you forget all about spaghettialla carbonara. Her soulful dishes areserved on delicious home-madegluten-free injera bread. Full mealsfrom only €8.50.

7At Michelin-starred Metamorfosiin Parioli (Via Giovanni Antonelli30, metamorfosiroma.it), chefs

Roy Caceres and John Regefalk blendtheir international culinary influences fora well-heeled crowd. For a thoroughsampling of their creative cuisine, orderthe Assaporando menu, which featuressignature dishes such as deconstructedcarbonara or a lacquered eel, glazed witha Japanese-style glaze, soy sauce, mirin,sake, sugar and eel bones.Tasting menusfrom €60.

Clockwise from

top: Colosseum;

gelato at Gelateria

Fatamorgana; mont

blanc de foie gras

at Metamorfosi;

Daniela’s Cooking

School

MARCH 2014 O 105

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8Sergio Esposito’s stall, Mordi e

Vai in the NewTestaccio Market(Via AlessandroVolta Box 15,

mordievai.it) serves a limited butsatisfying selection of Roman classicsto take away or eat on the fly.Try thepanino alla picchiapo (€3), a sandwichfilled with braised beef made usingEsposito’s family recipe.

9A 30-minute ride from centralRome to the end of the #8tramline delivers you to the city’s

best trattoria, Cesare al Casaletto (Via delCasaletto 45, 0039 06 536015).Themenu blends creative starters like friedgnocchi on a bed of pecorino romanoand black pepper sauce, a twist on theclassic pasta dish cacio e pepe, withmore straightforward mains, suchas stewed tripe and braised oxtail.Theoutstanding wine list focuses ontraditional wines. Meals from €30.

10Aromaticus (Via Urbana134, aromaticus.it), agardening shop in the Monti

district serves light and flavourful salads(from €7) made from aromatic herbs andseasonal produce.

11Just north of theVatican,Siascia Caffè (Via FabioMassimo 80A, sciascia1919.

com) has been in business for nearlya century, serving intense but balancedespresso and other strong coffee(from €1) to a loyal clientele. In thesummertime, ask for a granita di caffe,a slushy coffee-flavored drink servedwith whipped cream. Coffee from €1.

12The best pizzeria in Rome?Sforno (Via Statilio Ottato,110-116, sforno.it), which

rejects the thin-crust, local style andembraces the thick-rimmed Neapolitantradition (from €15). Start with supplì(deep fried rice balls), then pair yourpizza with a craft beer.

13Bustling wine bar, Enoteca

Trucchi (Via Cavour 198,enotecatrucchi.it) recently

added a tasting space next door whereyou can order wines by the glass.Themostly-Italian wine list is a who’s who ofthe country’s great female wine makers.Bottles from €15.

14The ruins of this abandonedslaughterhouse weretransformed into organic

market and coffee shop, Città dell’Altra

Economia (Largo Dino Frisullo,cittadellaltraeconomia.org), which also

hosts a farmers’ market among the oldcorrals on Sundays.

15Artisan gelato maker, MariaAgnese Spagnuolo, has aflare for creative flavour

combinations.At each of her citywideGelateria Fatamorgana outlets, look for

HOW TODO ITGET THERE flyfrom LondonGatwick to RomeFiumicino for(£59 return)(easyjet.com).

STAY THERE

Check into the

centrally-located

and well-appointed

rooms at the Hotel

Ponte Sisto

(hotelpontesisto.it)

from €205 b&b,

or try the more

intimate

accommodation

at Hotel Campo

De’Fiori

�KRWHOFDPSRGH¿RUL�

com), a boutique

hotel near the

market of the same

name, with doubles

from €242 b&b.

ON A BUDGET?

Book a room atThe Beehive(the-beehive.com), within easystriking distanceof the city’s mainsites. Rooms from€70, dorm bedsfrom €25.

*price includesreturn flights andhalf share of thelowest rate doubleroom listed above,for two nights.

£118*PER PERSON

Clockwise from

top left: pizza at

Sforno; fish from

the New Testaccio

Market; St Peter’s

Basilica and the

city skyline

flavours like wasabi-grapefruit and,among the dozen dark chocolate flavours,Kentucky, made with unsmoked tobacco.Cups from €2. (gelateriafatamorgana.it)

For more information on Rome’s tourist

sights and restaurants, visit 060608.it

106 O MARCH 2014

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✴The flavours at Bun Bo Nam Bo (67 Hang Dieu Street,opposite Hang Da Market, Hanoi) make the wait and the basicbench seating well worth enduring.This place churns out justone dish, bun bo (a beef and rice noodle broth with freshvegetables) but they do it better than anywhere else.✴You will be hard-pressed to find a foreigner at Banh Cuon

(72 Hang Bo, Hanoi).This is a butcher’s shop by day and a caféfrom noon, when Ms Anh, the characterful owner, serves up herrecipe for Banh Cuon handed down through three generations.✴ Serving the dish of the same name, Banh Xeo (46a DinhCongTrang, Ho Chi Minh City, +84 83824 1110) has thebest ‘crispy crepe’ that reveals French, Khmer and SouthernIndian influences. Rice flour, coconut and chicken workingtogether withVietnamese flair.✴ Over the last 10 years, we have employed many childrenaffected by human trafficking at Bobby Chinn (77 Xuan DieuRoad, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, +84 43934 8577).Workingwith NGO, Blue Dragon, our restaurant now self-managed asa cooperative where up-and-coming chefs serve signature dishessuch as BBQ pork ribs with Asian slaw and teriyaki salmon burger.✴ Hoang Yen Vietnamese Cuisine (7 Ngo Duc Ke Street,District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, +84 83823 1101) is my favouriterestaurant serving southern-style home cooked cuisine. It’sso popular that they now have four or five locations.✴A great hole-in-the-wall, Restaurant 13 (13 Ngo DucKe, Quan 1, Ho Chi Minh City, +84 8823 9314) servesclassic southernVietnamese food.✴ For ‘imperial’ or ‘royal’ cuisine, try Tib (187 DL Hai BaTrung,Ho Chi Minh City, +84 8829 7242). It’s run and managed bythe brother of Vietnam’s equivalent to Bob Dylan, and the foodcomes on intricate, small plates and replicates the cuisine of theformer imperial city of Hué.The best dish is the jackfruit salad(a stir-fry with rice crackers and fish sauce).

Flydirect from

LondonGatwick

toeitherHanoior

HoChiMinhfrom

£497return.

vietnamairlines.com

A14-daysmall

grouptourtaking

intheculinary

sightsofVietnam,

learningabout

everythingfrom

street foodto ‘royal

cuisine’, including

stays inHoChi

MinhCityand

Hanoi,plusseveral

cookery lessons,

costsfrom£1,099

perperson,with

accommodation

onaB&Bbasis,

transportand

atour leader

anddriver.

explore.co.uk

InVietnam, life is on the streets.The ubiquitous smellsof fish sauce can be found everywhere; the smoke ofgrilled pork perfumes the sidewalk and the sounds ofrustic kitchens hum throughout the day. Street food

is where the culinary action is, so don’t expect comfortablechairs or many of the luxuries of eating out.As with anygreat street food culture, the food is always the star – oftena fabulous single dish cooked to a recipe that has beenhanded down through several generations of one family.

With so much food surrounding you it can be hard todecide where to eat. Here are my favourite places to visitwhen I’m inVietnam.

VIETNAMEatlikealocal

TheHouseofHochefandownerBobbyChinntakesyouonafoodtourofthiscolourfulAsiandestination

FORBOBBY CHINN’S

VIETNAM RECIPES,SEE PAGE 62

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Fantastic non-stickceramic frying pansThe healthier, tougher and easier-to-use frying pan

– complete set just £49.99

TO ORDER, CALL 0844 4826015 QUOTING OL102 ORVISIT EASYLIFEGROUP.COM/OLIVEMAGAZINET&Cs Offer subject to availability. Please allow up to 14 days for delivery. Offer available to UK mainland customers only, some exclusions may apply. For overseas orders, please call for a quotation. If dissatisfied, please return unused within seven days for a full refund. **Calls to 0844

numbers will cost no more than 10p a minute from a BT landline. Calls from mobiles and other networks may cost more. Supply and fulfilment by Easylife Group Ltd, Euro House, Cremers Road, Sittingbourne ME10 3US.

Data protection Immediate Media Company Limited (Publishers ofO) would love to keep you informed by post or telephone of special offers and promotions from the Immediate Media Company Group. Please state at time of ordering if you would prefer not to receive these.

reader offer

108 O MARCH 2014

Thesebrilliantpansarecoatedwithtwolayersofthe latestnano-ceramicmaterial fortheultimatenon-stickfinish.Thisenablesyoutofrywith littleornofat,butteroroil,withouthavingproblemsgettingthefoodoutontotheplate.Practicallyscratch-proofandfarmorehard-wearingthanpreviousso-callednon-stickcoatings, theyarealsomadefromdurablealuminium,makingthemexceptionallylightandeasytouse.

Features include; heatproof Bakelite handles andknobs, heat-resistant exterior and glass and inductionbase. Suitable for all types of stove.

The five-piece set comprises a 20cm frying pan, 24cmfrying pan with lid and a 28cm diameter frying pan with lid.

Orderyoursnowfor just£49.99,saving£10ontheRRP(£59.99).

HOW TO ORDERCall08444826015** andquote OL102.Postsend acheque, madepayable to Easylife,with your name,contact details anditem(s) required, to:OCeramicPanOffer, Euro House,Cremers Road,SittingbourneME10 3USVisit easylifegroup.com/olivemagazine

FREEp&pFive-piececeramicpansetonly£49.99

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Lulu’s notes

TREND WATCHBOTTLED TEAThis ishardlyanewflavourtoBritishpalates,but it’sstrangehowlong it’s takenustoreallyrunwith it.

Bottledteasare increasinglyproper teaasopposedtosweet, fruit-based iceteasandareagreat

alternativeto juiceorwaterwhenyou’reoff thebooze.Makeyourownwithgood-quality loose-leaf tea

or, ifyoureallywanttopushtheboundaries, trykombucha; fermentedteathat is lightly fizzywithan

alcohol-likebite. I likechaiwhiteandgreensenchafromgokombucha.co.uk.

O’sdeputyeditorspendsmostofhertimeexploringcornersofthefoodworldtobringyoufreshideas,newskillsandinsiderknowledge.Thismonth:newsteakcutstotry,Mexicancheeseandhowtouseupyour leftovers

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LOG ON TOLULUSNOTES.COM NOWfo

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notes.com

TRY THISMEXICAN CHEESEQueso blanco, queso Chihuahua and quesoOaxaca are three Mexican-style cheeses madein Peckham with organic milk from Kent. Quesoblanco is a soft, fresh cheese that crumbles well,melts well and is the perfect foil for the spice ofMexican food. Relatively bland (in a good way),it’s described by its maker as a lot like feta butnowhere near as salty. Crumble it onto chilli ornachos or sprinkle it on tostadas. Oaxaca is a stringcheese (which means it is quite like mozzarella)and can be metlted onto tortilla or served freshwith a salsa. Chihuahua’sjobistomeltreallywell,sostuff it intochilliesandburyit inburritos.Buythemonlineorsearchforstockistsatgringadairy.com

COOKING CLASSSCHOOL OF WOKSkill-upbytakingacookeryclassandadd

awholenewrangeofdishestoyour

repertoireor learnonevitalnewskill.

Everyoneownsawok,right?Butareyou

actuallyusingitoris itgatheringduston

ashelfandtakingupvaluablespace?School

ofWokinCoventGardenoffersawiderange

ofclassesfromknifeskillstodimsumand

specialistseafoodclasses(pricesstartat£65

forathreehourclass). It’sfun, informativeand

theschoolbelievesthat‘evenafewbasic

cookeryskillscanrevolutioniseyourtimein

thekitchen’.Welovedit.schoolofwok.co.uk

MEAT-FREEThis isoneofmyfavouritequick,easyand

lightcurriesfromO’s recipearchive. Itcan

beshoppedforonthewayhomefromwork

andyoucanalwaysfindthe ingredients.

Perfect forameat-freeMonday.

Tomato, squashand spinach curry30 minutes ■ Serves 4 ■ EASY

onion 1halvedandsliced

oil

madras curry paste 2tbsp

butternut squash 1 small,about500g,

cut intochunks

tomatoes 5,quartered

spinach 100g,roughlychopped

basmati rice toserve

■ Cooktheonion in 1 tbspoil for5minutes

until softened, thentip inthecurrypasteand

cookfor3minutes.Addthesquashand

tomatoesalongwith200mlwaterandstir

well.Coverandsimmerfor 15minutesuntil

thesquash is justcookedandthetomatoes

havebrokendown.Stir throughthespinach

andleaveforacoupleofminutestowilt.

Seasonandservewithbasmati rice.

■ PER SERVING 125 kcals, protein 3.6g, carbs

16.7g, fat 5.1g, sat fat 0.5g, fibre 5.5g, salt 0.4g

If you haven’t yet visitedO’s blog,

lulusnotes.com, then you should; it’s

where we put news about ingredients

and products that have missed our print

deadlines (I know, you’d think everyone

would work as far ahead as we do), cocktails

we think are worth drinking, snippets of info

we’ve picked up about emerging trends and,

most importantly, some of our recipes like

Toulouse sausage and butterbean casserole

and baked raspberry cheesecake. Please

[email protected] if

you’ve any requests. Andpleaseforgiveany

clunkiness, it’smostdefinitelyawork in

progress. Ifanythingdoesn’tworkforyou,

letusknowandwe’lldoourbesttofix it.

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BEER NERDDON’T JUST DRINK IT;KNOW WHY YOU LIKE IT!

Notwobarleyvarieties

tastethesame.Robin

Appel,ofbarley

merchantsRobin

AppelLtd, lovesMaris

Otterbarley,which

hethinksisthemost

flavour-richBritish

variety.Thename,like

thatofMarisPiper

potatoes,comesfrom

wheretheyweredeveloped;MarisLane,

Trumpington,Cambridgeshire. Itssoft,honey

flavourssetitapartfromothervarieties–

ittasteslikewarmedbreadora

Sundaymorningcroissant.Maris

Otterbarleyhasbeenusedin

nineofthelastfourteen

ChampionBeersofBritainwhich

coverawiderangeofstylesand

showcaseitsversatility.Tasteit in

EllandBrewery’s 1872Porter

6.5%,ahistoric,chocolatystyle

ofbeerwhichpre-datesstout;or

JeffreyHudsonBitter from

OakhamAles,adelicateMaris

bodyinasauvignonblanc/pinot

grigio-likebeer.Forloversof

sauternes,No:9BarleyWine

fromConistonBrewery

intheLakeDistrict is

sweet,unctuous,and

ladenwithapricot

flavours.Allthreeare

availableinbottle.

Anna Glover

James Chase (far left) & Dominic Jacobs

(far right), friends and co-owners of The

Running Horse pub in Mayfair, tell us

about the signature drink at The Whip,

its upstairs cocktail bar.

(therunninghorselondon.co.uk)

✴Thejuleparrived inLondonasfarback

as1803,althoughits firstdocumented

appearance intheUSwassometimein

theeighteenthcenturycourtesyofUS

SenatorHenryClayofKentucky.He is

creditedwith introducingthedrinktothe

peopleofWashingtonD.CviatheRound

RobinBar inthefamousWillardHotel.

✴ In 1938, themint julepbecametheofficial

beverageservedatChurchillDown’s

world-renownedKentuckyDerby. Madewith

four ingredients:mint,bourbonorwhiskey,

sugarandwater, the julep is traditionally

served inpewtertinstoallowafrost to

developontheoutsideofthecupandkeep

it trulycold–theraces’signaturetins

becamecollector’s items.Remainingever

popularamongstracegoers,almost 120,000

julepsaredrunkeachyear,withKentucky

whiskeythemostpopularbase.

✴AtTheWhip,wearefirmbelieversthat

Britishproduce isthefinestacrosstheglobe

andsowearechampioning local ingredients

inour julep.WeareusingBritishvodka

orginasabase, fromJames’ownfamily

distilleryChase,mixedwithanarray

ofEnglishherbsandbotanicalsand

servedover ice.Here’saversionyoucan

mixathome:

The WhipMakes 1

Muddle50mlWilliamsChaseGBGinwith5

mint leaves, 1 teaspoonofhoneyand15ml

lemonjuice inthebaseofa juleptin.Add

crushed iceandmuddletogetheragain.Top

with 15mlsoda.Weservewitha julepstrainer

onthetop(notshown)withthymestalksand

asprinkle icingsugar.

MARCH 2014 O 111

lulu’s notes/tips & skills

CHEAT SHEET THE JULEP

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EASY TO REMEMBER WINESTO LOOK OUT FOR ONWINE LISTS

URBAN UCO MALBEC 2012,

ARGENTINA, 14%,

Forawinegrownintheshadowof

theAndes, inthepure,clearairof

theUcoValley,Urbanseemsan

oddname,butitreferstowhere

thiswineshouldbeenjoyed,not

wherethegrapesaregrown.

Madefrom100%malbec

grapes,thewineisfullof

damsonandcrushed

raspberryexuberancewitha

touchofcocoaandspice. It

hastheweightand

concentrationtoaccompany

aweekendsteak inachic

cityrestaurantbutit isn’t

offendedbyamid-week

casseroleathome.

FindUrbanUcoMalbec,

Argentina2012,14%on

thelistatLimainLondon

andatFishersintheCity

inEdinburghataround

£38orbuyittodrinkat

homefrombranches

ofLeaandSandeman

inLondonandat

MartinezinIlkleyat

around£11.

Christine Austin

✴WINELISTSTAR

WHAT’S ALL THE FUSS ABOUTHOT PEPPER SAUCE

O’s resident food

adventurer, Gregor Shepherd,

dispells the myths and guides

you through techniques that

may seem daunting but, in

fact, are worth spending the time over

Whatistheoppositeof‘spicy’?Theopposite

of‘hot’?Theoppositeof‘saucy’?

Isthatwhatyouwantforyourself?Foryour

life?Isthatreallywhoyouwanttobe?‘Idon’t

mindspicyfood,butIdon’t likeittoospicy’.

Canyouhearyourself?

Chilli infooddoesn’tdetractfromitsflavour,

itaddsheatthatbringstheflavoursalive. ‘But

thechildren,thinkofthechildren!’Howdo

childrenmanageinMexicoorIndiathen?

Peoplewhodon’t likechilliareabit likepeople

whodon’t likefish,ormusic,orreading.

I’mnotsayinglifeshouldbeaperennialheat

endurancetestforthemucousmembranes,

butlet’shaveabitofzingshallwe?Lookat

theworldofchillisoutthere–thespicesand

flavourscreationandselectivebreedinghave

givenus–fresh,pickledanddried–habañero,

jalapeño,bird’seyeandscotchbonnet.

SrirachasaucefromThailandandhotpepper

saucefromtheWestIndies.

Forgetweirdteenagemachostuffsuchas

thatwhichIatefora£20bettwomonthsago

causingmeuntranslatablepain.

It’seasytomakegoodstuffyourself–you

willevenhavethechancetodonyourrubber

glovesbeforebanishingthemforeverfrom

yournowso-much-more-than-humdrumlife!

Cheeseontoastwillneverbethesameagain.

FindGregor’srecipeforhotpeppersauceon

lulusnotes.com from5February.

CORRECTIONIn theFebruary issueofO,onsale02/01/14

to05/02/14, there was an error in the feature

Double lives, inadvertently introduced in the

course of the editing process. The feature should

have read: ‘To fulfil bigger orders, she [Nicola

Patchett] would have had to stop working at

home and invest in a production kitchen (N.B.

home-producers must register with the council;

pass hygiene certificates; environmental health

inspections; and take-out specialist insurance).’

Nicola Patchett, of Patchett’s Confectionery has asked us to note that

she has complied with all requirements for home-producers,

including those set out above. We apologise to Nicola, and to the

writer of the feature, Tony Naylor, for this error. PH

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112 O MARCH 2014

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FLATIRONSTEAK

Cutfromthe

feathermusclein

theforequarterof

thecow,thisistender,

hasashort-grainedtexture

andmoreflavourthansteaks

frommusclesthatdon’tworkashard,

suchasfillet. It isoftenscoredinacrisscross

patterntostopitpullingupatthesidesasitcooks.

Theseshouldbecookedmedium,neverwelldone.

4 OF THE BEST:UNUSUAL STEAK CUTSFollowing a Quality Standard beef and lamb butchery masterclass

in theO kitchen with butcher Martin Eccles, we’ve all been

converted to trying some different types of steak. Here’s what

we recommend – search your supermarket or ask your butcher.

For more information visit simplybeefandlamb.co.uk

BISTRO STEAKSCutfromthe

siderumpmuscle,this isseam

butcheryatitsbestandgives

asmall,neat,roundishsteakwith

anexcellentflavourandnoseams

ofsinewrunningthroughit. It’smuch

bettervaluethanfilletsteakandwe

thinkagreatalternative.

PICANHA (PEE-CON-YA)Thisisthetopmuscleofthe

rumpandhasathicklayeroffatononesidewithapoint

ortipatoneend.HighlyprizedinBrazil, it istender

andjuicy,andsteaks(shownhere)cutfromit

arefoldedinhalfandskeweredfat-side-out

tocookovercoals.Tocookwholepicanha

underagrillor inapan,cookthenon-fat

sidefirst,thenturnitoverandcook

fat-side-downtocrispandchar

thefat.Alayerofsaltflakes

onthefatwillmakeittaste

evenbetter.Youcanalso

finishit intheoven.Cook’s

perk:thetipisthemost

tenderpart.

HANGERSTEAKAlsoknownasonglet,this

hasadistinctlydifferenttextureand

flavourtoothersteaks,witha

coarsergrainandabeefier,

almostgameytaste. It

isbutterfly-cutfrom

theskirtmuscle,

whichmeansacut

ismadethroughthe

thicknessofthesteakand

it isopenedoutlikeabook.

SuperSoupLunch

Lent 2014

Holding a Super Soup Lunch is an easy way to raise

money to help poor communities around the world.

Get all the resources and information you need: fill out

the form below or visit www.christianaid.org.uk/soup11

Title Forename

Surname

Church name/Christian Aid committee/Company

Address 1

Address 2

Town

Postcode

I am happy for Christian Aid to call me. My daytime telephone number is:

Email address (Please complete if you are happy to receive emails from Christian Aid)

Please complete and return to the address below (no stamp required):

Freepost RSUR-YSTS-KJUL, Christian Aid, 35-41 Lower Marsh, London SE1 7RL

UK registered charity no. 1105851 Company no. 5171525

Scot charity no. SC039150 NI charity no. XR94639 Company

no. NI059154 ROI charity no. CHY 6998 Company no. 426928

The Christian Aid name and logo are registered trademarks of

Christian Aid. © Christian Aid January 2014

14-611-J1951 Photo: Christian Aid.

A019047

Getsteamedupaboutpoverty thisLent!

MARCH 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net

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lulu’s notes

114 O MARCH 2014

There are tons of lovely looking storage containers

available, from vintage tins and pricey ceramics to

cheap and cheerful plastic. They all look the part, but

for effective storage they need to do the job well. For keeping

biscuits crisp, coffee and spices fresh and sugar dry you need

an air-tight seal. Check lids fit tightly and have a silicone seal

to keep any air out. Before investing in a set of containers,

make sure they fit the width of your shelf. Also, if they are to

sit anywhere near your stove-top make sure they’re wipe-clean;

frying bacon can spit fat a considerable distance.

KITCHEN KITSTORAGE

Nextmonth

Gadgetsonsale5March

Each month, Lulu gives you advice on what it’s worth spending your moneyon for the kitchen, from big ticket items to utensils that you really shouldn’t bewithout. Lulu’s tested them, owns them and really, really rates them

SPICES

Foragoodflavour,spicesshould

befresh,andthatmeansairtight

containers. Ifyoudecantspices

thenwritethedateonthe

containersoyouknowhowold

theyare.Mymainproblemwith

spiceracks is thattheyrarelyhold

enoughcontainers,orthat, if they

do, thentheytakeuptoomuch

room. Ikeepmine inadrawer

(awayfromlight)on insertsto

stopthemrollingaround.Spices

bought in jarsfit intothecurved

trays,andthosethatcomein

bags Idecant intooldspice jars

orthoseteenyBonneMaman

jamjars. Ialsohavesomejars

withbuilt-ingrindersfor

anything Iwanttogrindfreshly.

Apackofsixacrylic jargrinders

is £9.40pluspostagefrom

waresofknutsford.co.uk.

SMALL CONTAINERS FOR LEFTOVERS

IuseCleanClickcontainersofvaryingsizesas

they’refairly indestructibleandthe lidscontinueto

workhoweverbadlytheyaretreated.Theproblem

withsomestorage isthat ifyoubendthe lidsthey

willneverworkproperlyagain. (lakeland.co.uk)

A CAKE CONTAINER

Thecakecontainerthatworksbest is theoneyoucan

getcakes intoandoutofeasily.ArgosstocktheCurver

RoundCakeStorewhich is34.5cmindiameterfor

£9.99.Thishasa lidthat liftsoff thebasesoyoucan

leaveyourcakeonthebaseandcutaslicewhenyou

wantand ithasacarryhandle. (argos.co.uk)

BOWLS WITH LIDS

Thesearebrilliant ifeitheryouhave

recipesthathaveahalf-waystopping

point,or forstackingthecomponent

partsofarecipeontheworksurface.

ThereareglassandPyrexsetsavailable,

butasetwithtabbedlidsmakesgetting

the lidsoffwithoutthrowingthe

contentsroundtheroommucheasier.

Thisstainlesssteelset isstackablewhen

not inuseandwillgothroughthe

dishwasher. (£59.99,domu.co.uk)

CONTAINERS THAT LOOK NICE

Open kitchen shelves can look very messy if

you have a mixture of storage containers, mine

certainly do. I intend to make everything neat,

tidy and matching so I’ve started buying

containers from Sebastian Conran for John

Lewis. I like them because they have a

transparent lid so I can see what’s in them. LJust

containers are equally as good – they vary in size

but are generally a bit wider than the Sebastian

Conran ones. Fortunately, they come in both red

and white, and you can get them from IKEA.

(johnlewis.com)

COFFEE AND TEA

Aswithmostotherfood,youneedanairtight

containertokeepthingsattheirbest.Fortea

bagsthataren’tusedquickly, loose-leaf tea

andcoffee, Iusecontainerswithasilicone

sealonthe lid.Atabout£16, thesearenot

cheapbutthey lookniceandthecolourrange

tochoosefromissuitablyScandi formost

kitchens. (typhoonhousewares.com)

BAG CLIPS

IKEABevarabagclipscost£2forabagof30different

sizes, they’rereusable,washableandprettytoughand

willdothe joball thosestickersonresealablepacksare

supposedtobutdon’t. (ikea.com)

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form

or

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visitlulus

notes.com

Feta and spring onionsAn omelette■ Serves 2

Sliceandboil200gnew potatoes forabout

4-5minutesuntil just tender. Fry3sliced

spring onions inadeepfryingpanwith1tbsp

olive oiluntil soft.Addthepotatoesandcook

for 1minute.Season,add4beateneggsand

scatterwith50gofcrumbled feta.Cookuntil

setandfinishunderapreheatedgrill tomelt

thecheese.Servewithagreen salad.

Feta and roastedred pepperTartines for lunch■ Serves 2

Toast2 longslicesofsourdough.Sprinkle

eachwitha littleolive oil andsome

seasoning.Slice3piecesofred peppervery

thinly,put inabowlandcrumbleover75g

feta.Addsomechoppedparsley,coriander,

chivesorbasil (whateveryouhave)and

dresswitha littleolive oilandsomered wine

vinegarorbalsamic vinegar.Spoononto

thetoastsandservewithsalad.

Roasted red pepperSalsa for steaks■ Serves 2-4

Finelychopashallot,2pieces of red pepper

andaripeavocado.Put inabowlanddress

withred wine vinegar,olive oiland

seasoning.Addafewred chilli flakes ifyou

like. Ifyou’vestillgotsome feta left thenstir

that intoo.

MascarponeA sauce for grilled fish■ Serves 2

Mixthezestofa lemon into 100g

mascarponeandaddasqueezeof juice,

seasonwell.Spoonontogrilledfish.

Leftovers

Spring onionsA dressing for salmon■ Serves 2

Slice3spring onions thinly,atanangle

andcoverwith1/2 tspsugar,2 tbsp rice wine

vinegar, juiceofa lime, and1tspchopped

red chilli andseason.Breakupaskinnedhot

smoked salmon filletorsmoked salmon

sliversandpouroverthemarinade.Scatter

withcoriander andservewith lime wedges.

abasco chipotleand soured creamSpicy burgers■ Serves 2

Mix 1 finelychopped shallotwith200g

mincedbeef,someseasoningandagood

slugofchipotle Tabasco.Mixwellwithyour

handsandshape into2flatburgers.Fryor

grilluntilbrownedalloverandcookedto

your liking.Serve insplitpittawith soured

creamandsomefinelyslicedonion.

CeleryEasy side dish■ Serves 2-4

Trimandpeelany leftover celery.Put it ina

pan,coverwithchicken stock, seasonand

addaknobofbutter.Bringtoasimmerand

cookuntil tender,simmeroff theexcessstock

andserve.

Celery1 of your 5 a day■ Serves 2

Finelyslice4sticksofcelery andput it in

abowl.Addapeeledandcoarselygrated

apple, sometoastedwalnutsanda large

handfulof finelyslicedwhite orred cabbage.

Dresswitholive oil,white wine vinegar and

Dijon mustard andseasonwell.

Puy lentilsHearty salad■ Serves 2-4

PutPuy lentils inapan,coverwithwater

andaddsomechoppedonionorshallot,

asprigofthyme, ifyouhaveone,andabay

leaf.Bringtoasimmerandcookuntil tender.

Drainandtop intoabowl.Addaknobof

butteralongwithsome olive oil and

balsamic vinegarandtosstogether.Stir

throughrocket, shreddedspinachor

chopped tomatoes ifyou like.

AnchoviesSupper for 1■ Serves 1

Finelychop8anchoviesandmixthemwitha

finelychoppedshallot andplentyofsoftened

unsalted butter.Masheverythingtogether.

Toastslicesofsourdoughorwhite bread and

spreadwiththemixturewhilestillpipinghot.

AnchoviesPerk up broccoli■ Serves 2

Steamaheadofbroccoli florets until tender.

Coarselygratesomewhite bread andfry in

olive oil until crisp,add8finelychopped

anchovies andplentyofblack pepper and

stir foracoupleofminutes.Tipoverthe

broccoli toserve.

Ciabatta mixDough balls for dipping■ Serves 2-4

Makeuptheciabatta mix followingthe

packet instructions.Dividethedoughinto

ballsandputtheminabutteredovenproof

dish.Leavetoproveuntildoubled insize.

Bakefor 15minutesthenbrushthemwith

meltedbutterwithacloveofcrushedgarlic

mixed into it.Servewithsoup.

We need to use up...Feta, roasted redpepper, mascarpone,spring onions, abascochipotle, soured cream,celery,Puy lentils,anchovies, ciabatta mix

Somecooks lovethechallengeofafridgefullofleftovers,othersnotsomuch.So,wherewe’veusedhalfapackofsomethingorafewspoonsoutofa jar,we’vecomeupwithacoupleof ideasforwhattodowiththerest RecipesLULUGRIMES,ANNAGLOVER

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O is owned and published by Immediate Media Company London Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London, W6 7BT. ISSN 1742/115. Printed by Polestar Chantry.

Copyright Immediate Media Company London Limited 2014. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without permission. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for

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SMALL PRINT

SOME WORDS

YOU WON’T

SEE INO

Our style is to

write as we talk:

informed but

unpretentious and

with a sense of

humour. We avoid

these terms:

✴TASTY

Toovague.

✴FOODIE

TO DESCRIBE

A PERSON

Toodivisive.

✴SCRUMMY

OR YUMMY

We’renotstill in

nurseryschool.

✴FARE

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mentioning

gammonfrom

chainpubs.

✴EATERY

Doyoustopoffat

theseondaysout

atthebuyeries?

✴WASHED

DOWN WITH

TooFamousFive.

✴FUNKY

Just likedad

atawedding.

✴FOR BEST

RESULTS

No, let’smake

amediocreversion,

shallwe?

✴NOM

NOM NOM

Nonono.

O’S PROMISE TO YOU

We hope you enjoyO’s recipes,

restaurant reviews and travel features

all the more because they are served

up with a sense of humour. But we are

as serious about eating well and with

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TRIPLE-TESTED RECIPESWetestour

recipesat least threetimes.Thecookery

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youendupwiththeperfectdisheverytime.

EASY RECIPESWebelieveyoucaneatwell

athomeevenifyoudon’thavebagsoftime.

MostofO’srecipesarequickandeasy,

andcanbemadeusingaccessibleingredients.

THE ODD CHALLENGEWeekendsare

formoreadventurouscooking,wethink,sowe

includesomerecipesthatwill takemoretime.

GOOD VALUEJanine’s7mealsfor£35

showsyouexactlywhattobuyandexactly

whattocookfromMondaytoSunday

without itbeingapain inthepurse.

SEASONAL EATINGWethink itmakes

sensetouse ingredientswhentheyare

attheirbest.

HEALTHY EATING80%healthy,20%

indulgent is thewayweliketoeat,but

youcanmakeupyourownmind

–nutritional informationfollowsrecipes.

PROVENANCE MATTERSWelove

tofindgreat ingredientsfromexcellent

producers,butthereoften isn’t timeforthat,

sowealsoshopcarefully insupermarkets.

Wherepossible,weusefree-rangeeggs

andchickens,humanelyrearedmeat,

organicdairyproducts,sustainably

caughtfish,unrefinedsugarandfairly

traded ingredients.

OURRECIPESBecauseO’s recipesdon’talwaysgive

exactquantities for ingredientssuchasoilandbutter,

nutritionalquantitiesmaynotalwaysbe100%accurate.

Analysis includesonlythe listed ingredients,notoptional

ingredients, suchassalt,oranyservingsuggestions.

MeatCareshouldbetakenwhenbuyingmeatthatyou

intendtoeatraworrare.

EggsUse largeeggs,unlessotherwisestated.Pregnant

women, theelderly,babiesandtoddlers,andpeoplewho

areunwell shouldavoideatingrawandpartiallycookedeggs.

VegetarianAlwayscheckthe labelsonshop-bought

ingredientssuchasyoghurt,cheese,pestoandcurry

saucestoensuretheyaresuitable.

Recipecostingsarebasedontheexactamount

of ingredientused; forexample, 125gofbutterwill

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❉ Thissymbolmeansrecipescanbefrozen.Unlessotherwise

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1.TheEbringtonArms:O readerscanbookthreenights

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INTERNATIONAL SAVVYBritish is

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CHEAP EATS AND SMART TREATS

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LOCAL KNOWLEDGESarahensures

theeatawaysectionarmsyouwith insider

infoandrecipesfromexcitingfooddestinations,

writtenbyfood journalists.

GabbyHarrington

Picture editor

Christine HayesEditor

Hayley WardActing

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MARCH 2014 O 117

10 Indianchickenwraps28 Pot-roastchickenwithbacon,

peasandlettuce77 QuickThai junglecurry86 Spicedchickenwithsweet

potatowedges

Fish & seafood40 Crawfishétouffée54 Halibut,purplesproutingbroccoli,

preserved lemon64 Hanoicalamarisalad32 Roastfennel-stuffedbreamwith

fennelseedandorangeoil63 Sakesteamedclams46 Salmonandhollandaisetart40 Sesamesalmonwithbroccoli88 Singaporecrabnoodles48 Springonionandprawnempanadas

Vegetables115 Celaryandwalnutsalad83 Cauliflowerandgingercurry88 Curriedcauliflowerrice78 Halloumipizzetteswithcaper

andchillidressing74 Rigatoniwithtomato, rosemary

andparmesansauce81 Roastedcauliflowerandgrapesalad

withbuttermilkdressing86 Spinachandfetaquesadillas50 Spinachandpotatocurry110 Tomato,squashandspinachcurry76 Warmroastedpepperand

butterbeansalad

✴VEGETARIAN ✴READY WITHIN 30 MINUTES ✴LOW FAT (12G OR UNDER PER SERVING) ❉FREEZABLE

90recipesand ideasStarters, sandwiches,snacks and soups

115 Anchovytoasts60 Blackpuddingscotchquail

eggsliders82 Cauliflowerandmanchegofritters

withromescorelish83 Cauliflowercarpacciowith

lemondressing10 Cheddarpopovers65 Cheesefondue54 Chicorysaladwithgorgonzola,

pinenutsandhoney115 Doughballs48 Dukkahgoat’scheesewith

homemadeflatbread115 Fetaandroastedredpeppertartines115 Fetaandspringonionomlette50 Goat’scheeseandpeartartines46 Leekand potatosoupwith

frizzled leeks40 Roastbeefpo’boy50 Salmonwraps83 Spicedcauliflowersoup50 Springonionpancakes73 Spicedsquashsoup88 Verygreensoup

Drinks50 BloodorangeCamparispritz46 Sazerac111 TheWhip

Sides and sauces115 Braisedcelary50 Braised leeks115 Broccoliwithanchovies50 Creamedspinach50 Leekandchilli squeak115 Mascaponesauce83 Quickcauliflowergratin115 Roastedredpeppersalsa51 Spinachandjalapenomadeleine50 Springonionsaladdressing50 Whippedgoat’scheesedip

Breakfasts, bakingand puddings

50 Bloodorange jelly32 Briochetreacletart68 Chocolatemousse122Lemonandwhitechocolate layer loaf41 Louisianabourbonbreadpudding36 Meltingmomentswithblood

orangecurd56 Rhubarbtartwithvanilla icecream42 Sugar-dustedbeignets

✴✴

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Recipeindex

March2014

WhyOrecipesworkeverytimeWe test all recipes at least three timesso they work without fail for you

1 The first time is by the recipe writer, whotests it in their own kitchen.2 Next, a member of the cookery team makesthe recipe in the O test kitchen.3The recipe is then tested at our photoshoot.Somerecipes are tested a fourth time at home by individualmembers of theO editorial team – we’re all keencooks and often can’t resist trying out a recipe weparticularly love as soon as we’ve discovered it.

✴Testing our recipes three times or more mayseem over-cautious, but mistakes can be costly,so it makes sense to ensure you get the rightresult every time.✴We’ve also checked that the majority ofingredients are available to buy easily and provideonline suppliers for those that are trickier to find.✴ If you need help with a recipe, phone usbetween 9.30am and 5.30pm, Monday to Friday,and we’ll be happy to help. Or email us and we’llget back to you as soon as possible.❉ This symbol means recipes can be frozen.Unless otherwise stated, freeze for up to threemonths. Defrost thoroughly before eating andheat until piping hot.

✴Always check shop-bought ingredients suchas yoghurt, cheese, pesto and curry saucesto ensure they are suitable for vegetarians.Recipe queries 020 7150 5024

or [email protected]

Food editor Janine Ratcliffe, left, and chief recipe

tester Kate Calder in theO kitchen

40

MainsMeat103Flammkuchen28 Gamepie86 Gingerandporkpattieswithnoodles28 Herb-crusted lambwith lentils79 Porkchopswithapplemash86 Purplesproutingbroccoliwithpancetta

andsoft-boiledeggs88 Quickblackbeanchilli40 Rootbeerglazedham62 Sauteedbeefwithrice

noodlesandsalad32 Slow-roastporkbellywithblackpudding

mashandgrainmustardsauce75 Smokychipotlemeatballs115 Spicyburgers

67 Steakandalepudding

Birds

5 Chicken,ciderandsmokybaconpuffpie88 Chickenpaillardwithredpeppers63 Chickenwingscooked incaramelsauce

✴ ❉

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Page 122: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

Lemon and whitechocolate layer loaf45 minutes + chilling ■ Serves 6-8

■ A LITTLE EFFORT

butter 175g,plusa little forthetin

golden caster sugar 175g,plus 1 tbsp

eggs 3

self raising flour 150g

baking powder 1/2 tsp

ground almonds 50g

lemons 2,zestedandjuiced

ICING

white chocolate 200g

butter 25g

lemon 1, zestedandjuiced

■ Heattheovento180C/fan160C/gas4.

Butterand lineabrownietinapproximately

27cmx18cm.Beatthebutterandsugar

togetheruntil creamythenaddtheeggs,

flourandbakingpowderandfinally the

groundalmondsandbeatagainbefore

folding inthe lemonzestandhalfof the juice.

■ Scoopthemixture intothetinand level

thetop,youneedthecaketobeflatwhen

it’scooked.Bakefor20-25minutesoruntil

cookedandvery lightlybrowned.Cool in

thetinandthenonawirerack.Mixthe

remaining lemonjuiceandcastersugar

andbrushthisoverthetop.

■ Forthe icing,melt thechocolate,butter,1/2 of the lemonzestand juicetogether in

abowlsetoverapanofsimmeringwater

(don’t let it touchthewater).Youcouldalso

dothis inshortbursts inthemicrowave.Stir

until smoothandthencooluntil thickenough

tospread.

■ Cutthecake into3equalstripsandtrim

thetops ifyouneedto.Spreadsomeicingon

onelayer,putanotherstripontop, iceagain

andthenfinishwiththefinalstripbutdon’t

ice ityet.Chill thecakeforanhoursothat it

canfirmupthentrimanybrownedges

(cooksperks)and icethetop(warmthe icing

inthemicrowave ifyouneedtosoften it).

Sprinkleontheremainingzestand leaveto

setbeforeslicing.

■ PER SERVING 544 kcals, protein 7.5g , carbs

52.5g, fat 34.1g, sat fat 18.5g, fibre 0.8g, salt 0.8g

Lemon and whitechocolate layer loafWhodoesn’t likelemondrizzle?Thisisasmarter,newerversionwiththedrizzlehiddenwithinit.,plusextraicing.Lovely.Recipe LULUGRIMES PhotographSAMSTOWELL

122 O MARCH 2014

bake of the month

Don’t miss next month’sO – get ahead for Easter entertaining, chocolate recipes andO’s COOL LIST 2014.NEXT ISSUE ON SALE 5 March 2014. Never miss an issue: subscribe now! Call 0844 848 9747 (quoteOLP314)

Nextmonth

Devil’s food cakewith orange frosting

Onsale5March

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Page 123: 3Olive Magazine - March 2014

MOLECULAR INGREDIENTS CULINARY LAB EQUIPMENT SOUS VIDE SEAWEEDS BAR TOOLS

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For advice or enquiries about products call 0845 226 3024 or email [email protected] online before 4.00pm for next day delivery

creamsupplies.co.uk

www.

GourmetWe have a constantly updatedZLSLJ[PVU VM [OVZL OHYK�[V ÄUK�ingredients that are soughtafter by adventurous cooks.

KitchenWe have a wide range ofprofessional quality kitchenware& tools including ‘kitchenlaboratory’ equipment if youwant to take your cooking tothe next level!

MolecularProduce sensational ‘caviar’& ‘spheres’ with sweet andsavoury liquids with oursimple-to-use moleculargastronomy kits. Then,later, progress to ourprofessional ingredients.

BarOur bar tools include all youULLK [V HKK H ÅV\YPZO [Vcocktail making. We haveeverything from sodasyphons to pourers andfrom shakers to muddlers.

CocktailRecreating a favourite cocktail iseasy with our professional rangesVM IP[[LYZ� ÅH]V\Y KYVWZ� JYLHT VMcoconut and syrups.

Making great coffeeat home is even moresatisfying with the rightequipment and tools.Our range includes jugs,whisks, stencils, tampers,grinders and thermometers.Also check out theAeroPress & Moka Pot.

Barista

OrganicRaw KaleChipsKale Chips are a healthy & delicious

alternative to potato crisps and

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totally natural!

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