1 CONTENT

31 MAY 2018 VOL. 2

E.O.P.C.

Essential oils , Perfumery & Cosmetics

OFFICIAL NEWSLETTER FOR BNAEOPC MEMBERS

2 CONTENT

Content:

9 Hair Care Innovations from in-cosmetics Global ................................................................................... 3

10 Anti-aging Innovations from in-cosmetics Global ............................................................................... 5

AllergyCertified awards: leading skin friendly products announced .................................................... 8

Anti-pollution, Probiotics and UV Protection Drive Protective Skin Care .............................................. 9

Conversational marketing & AI: the new way to talk directly to beauty consumers ....................... 10

Euromonitor: ‘Africa Rising’ and what it means for beauty .................................................................. 12

Commission plans revision of ecolabel criteria for rinse-off cosmetics ..................................................... 13

ENVI Committee MEPs welcome draft report on Plastics Strategy ..................................................... 14

EU Member States give initial thoughts on Commission MFF proposal ............................................... 15

EU Ombudsman concludes lack of transparency of the Council legislative process is

maladministration ........................................................................................................................................ 17

New trend alert: Shaping brows in China ................................................................................................ 21

Pycnogenol in Oral Skin Care ........................................................................................................................ 22

Recent intelligence on the "Lisbonisation" Omnibus adaptation of the Cosmetic Products

Regulation ..................................................................................................................................................... 26

Reinventing Anti-aging & Skin Care for the Healthy Aging Generation .................................................. 26

Rose-inspired skin care is gaining momentum, says market researcher Kline .......................................... 28

Single Use Plastics proposal expected to be published this week ...................................................... 29

Sognap releases soap with ice cream tulip extract .............................................................................. 30

UK Government moving towards ban on make-up wipes that contain plastics ............................ 31

Using culture as a marketing method.............................................................................................................. 31

Who’s disrupting beauty now? .................................................................................................................. 32

US FDA Pushes Sunscreen Reform on Three Fronts ................................................................................. 36

3 CONTENT

9 Hair Care Innovations from in-cosmetics Global

New ingredient innovations are creating opportunities in hair care.

1. Millennial-friendly Product

Formats

DSM presented a range of

formulations geared toward

active millennials, including

the Alp’Dry Shampoo for hair

care between washes, the

Texturizing Beach Spray for

just-back-from-the-beach

looks and the Messy Matte

Gum for sculpting, texturizing

and scrunching the hair with a

matte finish.

2.Anti-stress Hair Care

Clariant has introduced its

Genadvance conditioning

ingredient range, which is

designed to address naturally

thin, fine hair impacted by

stressful lifestyles, genetics or

aging; hair that has been

heavily damaged or

weakened due to heat

exposure or chemical

treatments; and hair dried out

by everyday elements.

The formulation technology

reportedly overcomes

conventional quaternary

ammonium compound

limitations in rinse-off

conditioners and conditioning

shampoos. The specialized

treatments offered by the

range also supports

customized formulation

development.

Genadvance Repair renders

damaged hair sleek, smooth

and healthy, while preventing

further damage. It is

appropriate for hair masks and

treatments, shampoos and

conditioners. The lightweight

ingredient boosts its

economical profile, according

to the company.

The Genadvance Life

conditioning ingredient

revitalizes thin and limp hair

with volume and shine. The

material will not make hair

frizzy and can be applied in

silicone-free products such as

shampoos and conditioners.

Genadvance Hydra is an

EcoCert-approved naturally

derived ingredient that leaves

hair feeling moisturized and

manageable. It can be used

at high levels in products such

as natural shampoos and

conditioners, as well as

products for children.

3.Anti-aging Hair Care

BASF’s DN-Age reportedly

slows down the hair graying

process and reduces hair loss

by preventing UV-induced

DNA damage to the scalp.

The technology, which is

extracted from Cassia alata

leaves and titrated flavonoids,

4 CONTENT

protects hair follicle cells to

prevent hair graying and hair

aging, according to the

company.

It is available as a

concentrated powder and a

hydro-glycerin solution. BASF’s

placebo-controlled clinical

study featuring 38 volunteers

over a six-month period

reportedly showed that DN-

Age leads to greater hair

density: 80% of the

participants using DN-Age

perceived their hair to be

stronger, fuller, and thicker.

4.Gentle Scalp Care

BASF has developed a demo

product, Men’s Scalp Care

Shampoo, which is designed

to minimize scalp reactions to

conventional shampoos,

including redness, tautness,

itching and dandruff.

The formulation, designed for

daily use, comprises a mild

surfactant, Plantapon LC 7, a

micro-protein for restoring and

strengthening the hair, Nutrilan

Keratin LM, which is enabled

by a conditioning system

comprising Dehyquart Guar N

and Cetiol LDO, and an anti-

dandruff complex, Sanicapyl

BC 10030.

5.Scalp Care Concept

Formulations

Good scalp care is critical for

healthy and younger-

appearing hair. The benefits of

a healthy scalp are well

known in Asia and Europe,

with awareness rising in North

America.

That’s why Lubrizol embraced

scalp care with a range of

demo formulations, including

a sugar scrub non-foaming

treatment comprising just

eight ingredients, including the

Carbopol Ultrez 30 polymer

and Actiphyte papaya fruit,

which supports the sloughing

off of dead skin cells.

An oil pearl elixir for the scalp

was an oil-based, non-silicone

serum to offer low viscosity

and good spread throughout

the hair and scalp. The

formulation comprised olive

and argan oils to nourish the

scalp, while leaving the hair

smoother and shiner.

The formulation also included

the Pemulen EZ-4U polymeric

emulsifier, which allows for the

suspension of oil droplets in an

aqueous gel for an added

visual effect. The serum also

included Actiphyte avocado,

which enriches dry skin and

reduces UVB inflammation,

while boosting DNA damage

repair mechanisms triggered

by pollution.

6.A New Pathway to

Eliminating Gray Hair

IFF Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

presented Greyverse (INCI:

Glycerin (and) Water (aqua)

(and) Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide

20), its biomimetic peptide,

which clings to melanocyte

receptors to stimulate melanin

production and decreases

oxidative stress, thereby

stimulating hair pigmentation

and revering the hair graying

process.

The ingredient is appropriate

for both men and women and

can be formulated into

products at a level of 0.5-2%.

The ingredient can be applied

to products to hide roots

between color treatments or

to allow consumers to avoid

conventional dyes.

The ingredient can also be

applied to products designed

for the beard.

7.Keratin Repair from the

Inside Out

Lubrizol presented Fixate

Keratin, a new technology

that counteracts the

damaging effects of hair

strengthening techniques that

can cause dullness and

breakage over time. The

thermal-activated two-

component technology

reconstructs the hair from the

inside or more than 10 washes.

Fixate Keratin, which is

formaldehyde-free and boars

a low fume profile, leverages

encapsulation technology

that offers long-lasting hair

transformation, according to

the company.

It also improves

manageability, shine, softness

and smoothness of the hair.

The system was tested on

more than 50 models with

common hair types found in

Brazil and North America,

according to Lubrizol.

The company found that

repeated applications of the

technology does not damage

hair; after one year,

characteristics of hair fibers

remain the same.

5 CONTENT

8.Experiential Styling

Dow presented a range of hair

styling concepts based on its

Aculyn rheology modifiers. The

RichGel comprised Aculyn 88

and formed a shear-thinning

gel, while HoneyGel

contained Aculyn 88 and

Aculyn 22 and offered the

richness and perception of

honey.

The company’s MemoryGel

was formulated with Aculyn 28

and featured a jelly texture

and memory shape behavior,

while the MeltiGel was

developed with Aculyn 88 and

Aculyn 28 and featured a

melting texture and clean pick

up.

9.Rebalancing Coconut-

Avocado Hair Milk

Vantage presented a

Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk

concept designed to

rebalance the hair with lipids.

The formulation comprised

coconut and avocado oil and

coconut water and fruit juice,

among other ingredients.

The formulation is water-thin

and reportedly improves hair

shine, frizz and overall

appearance. The mixture can

be applied in sprayable

formats, cleansers, shampoos

and conditioners, hair masks

and treatments, hair styling

products, hair

boosters/enhancers, cold-

process formulations, creams,

lotions, cream-gels, serums,

milks, and foundations and

primers.

SOURCE:

10 Anti-aging Innovations from in-cosmetics Global

Mibelle Biochemistry hosted a launch party at the NEMO Science Museum in

Amsterdam for its MossCellTec No. 1 ingredient.

Fred Zülli, founder and managing director of Mibelle Biochemistry,

introduced the launch of MossCellTec No. 1.

Givaudan Active Beauty presented its

PrimalHyal Ultrafiller, a cosmetic

alternative to dermal fillers based on a new sustainable

hyaluronic acid derivative.

6 CONTENT

During in-cosmetics Global, Mibelle Biochemistry hosted a launch

party at the NEMO Science Museum in Amsterdam for its

MossCellTec No. 1 (INCI: Phytol (and) Isomalt (and) Aqua/Water),

a moss-derived anti-aging ingredient.

1. Anti-aging for Every Climate

During in-cosmetics Global,

Mibelle Biochemistry hosted a

launch party at the NEMO

Science Museum in Amsterdam

for its MossCellTec No. 1 (INCI:

Phytol (and) Isomalt (and)

Aqua/Water), a moss-derived

anti-aging ingredient.

The ingredient works by

stimulating the transportation

capacity of the nuclear pore

complex, which contains the

cell’s DNA and regulates

cellular processes. By

supporting the quick transport

of molecules in and out of the

cell nucleus, MossCellTec No. 1

supports rapid production of

new proteins and quick

adaptation to environmental

changes.

In addition, the ingredient

reportedly improves skin

moisture, provides added

defense against pollutants and

improves the complexion.

MossCellTec No. 1 comprises

3.3% Physcomitrella patens

protonema culture and is

recommended to be applied

at a level of 2% in skin care

products.

The biotechnology production

process grows moss cells as a

culture within a lab, allowing

for a sustainable supply that

doesn’t risk the heavy metal

levels often found in nature.

According to Mibelle

Biochemistry, in vitro studies

have shown that MossCellTec

No.1 improves expression of

cell nucleus health markers in

aged cells and helps skin

adapt to climatic changes.

In a placebo controlled clinical

study with women that are

exposed to daily temperature

changes in the summer,

MossCellTec No.1 “significantly

improved” skin hydration,

barrier and homogeneity after

two weeks.

2.Arctic-inspired Anti-aging

Lipotrue presented Arctalis

(INCI: Pseudoalteromonas

ferment extract), a new

marine-derived anti-aging

ingredient, at in- cosmetics

Global. The material is based

on a marine microorganism

found 2,700 m beneath the

ocean near Greenland, a

region in which the Aurora

Borealis is visible.

Arctalis is rich in

exopolysaccharides, which

have film-forming properties

and therefore promotes the

decreased appearance of

wrinkles by acting on the extra

cellular matrix. The material’s

desmoglein-3 content improves

barrier function.

The film-forming effect is visible

within one hour, with deeper

results coming after seven

days, according to the

company. The ingredient also

boosts blue light defensive

capabilities, thereby reducing

MMP1 levels.

The ingredient is water soluble

and recommended to be used

at levels of 2% in formulations.

3.New Anti-aging Material

Coming Soon

Lipotrue is preparing to unveil

Munapsys, a pre- and post-

synaptic peptide that

reportedly has strong activity

against wrinkles, particularly in

comparison with some

technologies currently on the

market. In vivo and in vitro tests

will be released soon.

4.Plant-based Anti-aging

Beauté by Roquette presented

a range of products, including

plant-based polyhydroxyacid

(PHA) for anti-aging and anti-

acne activity in skin care

products.

5.Customized Anti-aging

Merck KGaA, Darmstadt,

Germany, is preparing for the

future of customized beauty, in

anti-aging and beyond. By

leveraging a flexible portfolio of

multifunctional ingredients,

formulators and brands can

address customization and on-

demand beauty on a larger

scale.

7 CONTENT

The company put this concept

into action at its Active

Solutions station at in-cosmetics

Global. Using a short question-

naire, visitors were able to

choose from a range of new

innovations and natural

ingredients for specific anti-

aging and skin care needs,

including moisturization.

The company’s booth

highlighted its RonaCare

Cyclopeptide-5 alcohol-free

homodetic cyclic peptide for

cosmetics. The material

reportedly mimics the natural

processes of skin

communication and repair to

stimulate anti-aging properties.

6.Rapid Anti-aging

BASF’s Replexium is a skin-

bioavailable complex of two

patented peptides that target

key proteoglycans—lumican

and syndecan-1—and

collagen XVII, which are

responsible for the skin’s

biomechanical properties and

typically decrease with age.

Per the company’s in vitro

studies, Replexium increases

the synthesis of lumican,

syndecan-1, and collagen

types I and

XVII. Clinical studies have

shown the complex’s ability to

decrease the appearance of

fine lines and wrinkles.

According to the clinical

results, the appearance of fine

lines and wrinkles among study

participants was reduced by

11% after three weeks and 23%

after eight weeks. The complex

also reportedly improved

dermal density by 21% within

three weeks, which BASF says is

“significantly faster than a

peptide-benchmark.”

7.Recontouring from the Inside

Out

BASF’s RNAge rebalances Let-

7b—the microRNA that

downregulates the production

of proteins that are critical to

building dermal architecture—

and therefore helps the dermis

to remain dense and to firm the

facial shape by rebuilding it

from within.

The material, which is extracted

from sea buckthorn, is China-

compliant and COSMOS-

approved.

8.Sustainable Anti-aging

Borealine Expert (INCI: Glycerin

(and) Acer Rubrum Extract),

from IFF Lucas Meyer

Cosmetics/LMC – BioForeXtra is

derived from maple tree bark

discarded by the lumber

industry.

The polyphenol-rich antioxidant

technology offers anti-wrinkle

and anti-aging activity by

boosting collagen and elastin

to improve skin firmness and

elasticity.

9.Sustainable Dermal Filler

Alternative

Givaudan Active Beauty

presented its PrimalHyal

Ultrafiller, a cosmetic

alternative to dermal fillers

based on a new sustainable

hyaluronic acid derivative.

According to the company,

PrimalHyal Ultrafiller topical

hyaluronic acid acts as an

aesthetic filler by penetrating

deeply into the skin and filling

wrinkles, while stimulating the

skin’s anti-pollution defenses.

Givaudan’s clinical research

found that, with a single

application, the ingredient fills

small wrinkles (-8.7%) in 60

minutes, with further

improvement in six hours. After

one to two months it reduces

the appearance of

nasogenian wrinkles by 13%

and improves skin texture for

77% of the volunteers.

PrimalHyal Ultrafiller reportedly

reactivates the metabolism of

aged skin cells to restore the

antioxidant skin defenses by as

much as 34% against UV

damage and pollution.

Givaudan demonstrated the

technology in the S3D Pro’Fill

“time- reversing filler,” which

was inspired by clinical

formulations used during the

evaluations of the ingredient.

The filler creates an immediate

blur effect.

10.Trapping the Agents of

Aging

Dow’sAgeCap Smooth

cosmetic ingredient is designed

to offer protection from

environmental factors such as

sun, pollution and smoking by

selectively trapping reactive

oxygen species before

damage occurs.

The technology reportedly

softens the appearance of

wrinkles, delivers a skin

smoothing effect, boosts

radiance, and offers good

photo- and thermal stability in

applications such as facial

care, serums, leave-on skin

care, eye serums and color

cosmetics.

SOURCE:

8 CONTENT

AllergyCertified awards: leading skin friendly

products announced

AllergyAward2018 took place in Amsterdam last month, and the winners

make up a list of leading products certified as ‘allergy free’.

The following were the products

picked out as winners:

Best skin friendly product for

Household: Derma, Håndsprit

Gel

Best skin friendly product for

Institutions/professionals: Hevi

Sugaring, Sugar Scrub

Best skin friendly product for

Children: Decubal, Junior

Cream

Best skin friendly product for

Women: Xellence, Organic

Apricot Kernel Oil

Best skin friendly product for

Men: E-cooking, Face Scrub

Best skin friendly product:

Chosen by Consumers Squalan,

Moisturizer Facial Oil

This was the 4th AllergyAward,

with the event this year taking

place at Cristofori Concertzaal

in Amsterdam.

“We move AllergyAward from

city to city every year. This

because we want a happy and

positive occasion to focus on

how you as a consumer can

live a skin friendly life in that

country,” says Lene Stiil, ceo &

co-founder of AllergyCertified

“This year we had chosen

Holland because we here ind

an interest for skin friendly

products already from

producers, distributors,

journalists and consumers. With

AllergyAward, we have given

this interest a boost because

we have shown how wonderful

products without allergens can

actually be.”

There were 106 registered

products from different

European countries taking part

in the competition, which

organisers say is a record in

numbers.

Participants on the day came

from Sweden, Turkey, England,

Belgium, USA, Switzerland,

Holland and Denmark.

There are 18 judges in the jury

to find the winners in six

categories. This year the judges

were from Denmark, England

and Holland.

Rising interest in allergies?

According to Stiil, allergies are a

focus for consumers looking for

‘skin-friendly’ products.

“It's amazingly uplifting to see

the interest in AllergyAward

spread even further in less time

than we had hoped when we

irst started back in 2015. That

tells me that the brands that

offer skin-friendly versions of

their products will gain market

share,” she explains.

“More and more consumers are

aware of how many wonderful

brands are skin-friendly and

they will increasingly choose a

skin-friendly life, simply because

they want to avoid getting

chronic skin allergies.

“This idea, that message, gives

us the energy to start planning

of AllergyAward2019.” The next

event is to be held in Malmö on

April 8 2019.

SOURCE:

9 CONTENT

Anti-pollution, Probiotics and UV Protection Drive

Protective Skin Care

Skin defense is on the rise, driven

by new claims and ingredients.

Pro

tective skin care comprises UV

protection, supported by UV

filters, defense against air and

light pollution, supported by

anti-pollution and blue light

breakthroughs, and holistic skin

protection, led by the

probiotic/microbiome

revolution.

During a briefing conducted at

in-cosmetics Global, Maria

Coronado Robles, senior

consultant, Euromonitor

International, outlined the

consumer sentiments and

growth opportunities among

products and markets around

the globe.

Related: 3 Things Consumers

Want in Athleisure Products

Consumer Sentiment Driving

Trends

According to Euromonitor data:

16% of surveyed consumers

looked for anti-pollution

benefits in skin care in 2017 25%

reported taking supplements or

vitamins daily 25% of Gen Z

consumers are looking for anti-

pollution

claims, compared to 16% of

millennials 53% felt they could

make a difference in the world

with their choices.

61% are worried about climate

change

Protective Skin Care Ingredients

Robles explained that the key

protective ingredients include:

“Other” protection

UV filters

DNA protection

Microbiome-friendly (but non-

probiotic) Biomimicry

Anti-pollution

Botanicals Vitamins

Niacinamide Ascorbic acid Etc.

Probiotics

Prebiotics that feed probiotics

Live probiotics

Deactivated/dormant

probiotics Tyndallized/heated

probiotics

Postbiotics such as hyaluronic

acid and lactic acid

Microbiome-friendly materials

that support biome balance

Lysates—cells with

walls/membranes that have

been broken in order to render

their components more

bioavailable

Top Anti-pollution Markets

Ranked

According to Euromonitor data,

the markets with the greatest

citation of anti-pollution as the

most-desired skin care benefit

in descending order were:

1. Asia Pacific

2. Latin America

3. Middle East and Africa

4. Western Europe

5. North America

Notably, Latin America’s

population will significantly

over-index for urbanized

populations by 2030, compared

to global rates. This portends will

for vastly increased demands

for anti-pollution solutions.

Top Regional Product Type

Growth Opportunities for Anti-

pollution

According to data presented

by Robles, the top product

format opportunities in Asia

Pacific are:

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1. Facial Moisturizers

2. Face masks

3. Shampoos

4. Anti-agers

In North America, the top

opportunities include:

1. Sun protection

2. Shampoos

3. Anti-agers

In Western Europe, the top

opportunities include:

1. Shampoos

2. Facial cleansers

3. Anti-agers

Anti-pollution Claims on the

Market

While anti-pollution concepts

are still evolving, claims are

already showing up on store

shelves around the world,

including in Sanex’s Zero% Anti-

Pollution Shower Gel,

Schwarzkopf Extra Care Purify &

Protect Shampoo, Oskia Citylife

I-Zone lip and eye balm and

Lovekins Gentle Baby Hair +

Body Wash.

Probiotic Claims on the Market

Probiotic concepts are already

being introduced to the

marketplace, even as brands

seek out the right balance of

microbiome-friendly/supportive

approaches. The claims have

already shown up in personal

care, anti-aging and

dermocosmetics.

Recent examples include

Mother Dirt’s AO Biome

Moisturizer, Yun Probiotherapy’s

CAN+ Wash and CAN+ Cream,

Glowbiotics’ Anti-Aging Oil,

JooMo’s Body Wash, ang

Gallinee’s Hydrating Face

Cream.

Key Anti-pollution and Probiotic

Challenges & Opportunities

The effectiveness of anti-

pollution concepts is

determined by how well

formulations and product

formats can address the diverse

number of pollutants,

geographical variations,

variations of conditions

depending on time of day and

seasonal shifts.

Similarly, probiotics face

consumer confusion, a lack of

standardization among

ingredients and microbiome-

supporting strategies, as well as

technical and regulatory

barriers, including EU limitations

on microbe levels per ml of

product.

Robles concluded by noting

that savvy brands can succeed

by expanding anti-pollution

claims into sun protection and

hair care, by offering more

robust protection, such as

supporting the skin barrier, and

integrating technical

innovations such as data

collection, wearables and

apps.

In addition, brands can expand

probiotics into categories such

as hair and dermocosmetics,

offer protection from

environmental aggressors,

deliver anti-aging claims, and

personalize products through

microbiome fingerprinting and

genetically modifying

microorganisms to support

microbiome wellness.

SOURCE:

Conversational marketing & AI: the new way to

talk directly to beauty consumers

By Lucy Whitehouse

We got the inside scoop from Andy Mauro, co-founder &

CEO of Automat, on how artificial intelligence (AI) is

disrupting and redefining the industry.

11 CONTENT

Automat helps companies use

AI to have personalized one-

on-one conversations with their

customers, fans, and followers.

It works in Conversational

Marketing - specifically a

cloud-based

platform, proprietary AI

technology, and dedicated

services teams to create

compelling end-user

experience that align with

business goals.

Mauro will be speaking on ‘The

New Way to Talk Directly to

Beauty Consumers’ at the

upcoming Innocos beauty

knowledge-sharing and

networking event.

Innocos is set to take place in

Florence, Italy at The Grand

Hotel Mediterraneo, June 13-

15, 2018, with full details

available here.

How has AI already been

disrupting the beauty market?

What tech have we seen?

AI has been disrupting the

beauty market in a variety of

ways.

One of the challenges that

beauty consumers face is

being overwhelmed by the

number of options available to

them and determining which

products are best for their

specific needs.

AI-powered beauty bots

achieve 80%+ completion rates

for diagnostic and quizzes that

inform the delivery of

personalized tips,

recommendations, and

inspiration.

Complementary technologies

like image analysis and

augmented reality (from

players such as Modiface,

Revieve, and others) can be

used in bots and other

channels to analyze people’s

skin complexion or face shape

(from a selfie or live video) and

make recommendations or

enable virtual try-on of

products.

AI has also started to disrupt

Influencer Marketing. One

good example of that is the

bot that we've created for

CoverGirl and modeled after

Kalani Hilliker, a 16-year-old

American dancer, model and

TV personality.

Kalani was chosen as an

influencer by CoverGirl for the

great engagement that she

gets from her fans on social

media.

The marketing team was

stunned to discover that the

bot received 1400% more

conversations than the

average number comments

per posts from the real Kalani,

and more than 2M minutes of

engagement, without any paid

media.

Do you predict it will have a

major impact on the market

moving forward? If so, in what

ways?

Definitely. With recent social

media scandals and a growing

mistrust of big-tech whose

business models rely on

monitoring consumers,

marketers will have to start

looking into technologies that

can effectively reach and

understand consumers in a

more direct and transparent

way.

It’s particularly true in the

beauty industry where the

need for personalization is so

high.

Companies like L’Oréal, Coty

and Estée Lauder are investing

in AI and more particularly

Conversational Marketing

because it is a true game

changer that allows them to

learn about their consumers in

their own words.

Brands will be able to leverage

new tools to have ongoing

conversations with their

customers.

Brands who successfully deliver

hyper-personalized content

and product

recommendations via

messaging channels will build

stronger relationships with

consumers across the home, in-

store and mobile.

Are beauty brands ready for AI

and its potential? If not, how

can they prepare?

Most of the brands are ready:

they have invested in e-

commerce capabilities, they

know how to drive traffic to it,

and they have CRM in place to

capture consumers data.

The biggest challenge is

actually a human one: many

teams are afraid of AI because

they don’t fully understand

how it works and overestimate

the level of changes needed in

the organization to make it

work.

But the leading AI solutions

emerging on the market now

have the necessary experience

to integrate with the existing

tech and marketing stack easy.

That being said, a change of

mindset is indeed necessary to

get the best of AI, and more

particularly from

Conversational Marketing.

A conversation is different from

a campaign in a way that it is

an ongoing correspondence,

not a one-time event.

12 CONTENT

We’ve found that if you use

your first conversation with a

consumer to learn a little bit

about them, and then use this

to personalize your follow-up

notifications, the read rates

can be over 80% and the

response rates over 40%, which

is way higher than what email

gets.

But this can only be achieved if

the content and marketing

calendar for bots is tuned to

the benefits of this new

channel instead of trying to

shoehorn it into the web and

app model.

Any other thoughts?

There’s no question that AI

expectations have been overly

inflated in the past, but it would

be a great mistake to think that

AI is just a buzzword.

Early adopters who are using AI

to solve specific problems are

already seeing results.

All those early adopters have

one thing in common: they

picked the right partner, with

actual proprietary AI expertise,

PhDs on staff and beauty

expertise, to help them

achieve their goals.

SOURCE: William Reed Business Media Ltd;

Euromonitor: ‘Africa Rising’ and what it means

for beauty

By Lucy Whitehouse

The market research provider has released a report into the rising potential of the

Africa region, with beauty and personal care one of the industry picked out

as particularly likely to benefit from its growth.

The findings come in a report from the firm entitled ‘Shifting Market Frontiers:

Africa Rising’, which can be accessed here.

“Africa’s two largest economies,

Nigeria and South Africa,

account for nearly 50% of the

continent’s GDP in 2017.

However, by 2030 these two

countries will represent just 37% of

Africa’s total GDP, demonstrating

the rising economic importance

of Africa’s emerging markets,”

says Euromonitor.

“Given the continent’s large

population and strongly

increasing GDP, Africa is set to be

the most dynamic region for

various industries, which include

packaged food, consumer

electronics, and beauty and

personal care.”

6 key findings

The following have been picked

out in the report as its key

findings.

1. African population growth,

increased urbanisation and

expenditure presents

opportunities

Africa is the world’s second most

populous continent. Its growing

young population is expected to

command nearly 20% of the

world’s population by 2025.

Equally, rapid urbanisation and

fast-growing consumer

expenditure provides long-term

opportunities.

13 CONTENT

2.Consumers are diverse and a

“one size fits all” approach will

not work

Africa’s 55 independent states

are home to a diverse population

of different income groups,

religions, races, customs and

languages.

This diversity requires a more

granular and regional approach

for a successful and sustained

market entry.

3. A lexible long-term strategy is

required to succeed in the

continent

Despite signs of growing GDP

and consumer expenditure, the

challenges of the continent, such

as lack of infrastructure, paucity

of skills and political instability,

require a flexible and long-term

approach.

4. Local companies ofer strong

competition

Local companies are seasoned

experts with a wealth of

knowledge, which give these

companies an advantage over

global competitors.

Lessons can be learnt from their

approach to business, or

partnerships should be

considered.

5.Growing technology in the

region

The rising adoption and

development of technology

provides new ways of reaching

consumers. Africans are

increasingly connected, with high

mobile penetration—reaching

one billion in 2017.

This offers opportunities in various

consumer industries, which

include finance, apparel, food

and drink, and beauty and

personal care.

6.Modernisation of retail

alongside informal retailing

Modern retail outlets are

increasing at a rapid pace.

However, a large proportion of

retailing still takes place in

traditional stores, open-air

markets, street kiosks and even at

the side of the road.

Understanding how these

markets operate and why

consumers choose these

channels is important.

SOURCE: William Reed Business Media Ltd;

Commission plans revision of ecolabel criteria for

rinse-off cosmetics

The European Commission

recently debriefed national

experts and stakeholders on its

work plan on EU Ecolabel for

2018-2019 during a meeting of

the EU Ecolabelling Board.

Regarding the criteria for

ecolabel of rinse-off cosmetic

products, the Commission

explained that discussions will

take place in June 2018 on the

possibility to enlarge the scope

and/or revise through

shortened procedure. The

revision itself could start end

2018/2019.

The revision of the criteria is

expected to be carried out by

the Commission's Joint

Research Centre (JRC),

assisted by an Ad-hoc Working

Group (AHWG), composed of

Member State experts and

stakeholders. The Commission

would draft a measure on the

basis of the JRC review.

The draft measure would then

follow the "comitology

procedure with scrutiny" (or the

procedure for delegated acts if

the “Lisbonisation” process

concludes in favour of DA

before the Commission finalises

the drafting of the related

measure on eco-label), which

contains a 3 months scrutiny

14 CONTENT

period (possibly extended to 1

month more) in the Parliament

and the Council: the co-

legislators could veto the

Commission’s proposal if they

meet at least one of the

required legal ground

established in this procedure,

and the required qualified

majority in Council or absolute

majority in Parliament.

The Ad-hoc Working Group

mentioned is expected to

invite the involved

stakeholders, therefore it is

understood that Cosmetics

Europe would be invited to the

technical discussions to work in

coordination with the JRC on

the Commission’s proposal.

ENVI Committee MEPs welcome draft report on

Plastics Strategy

The European Parliament's

Environment (ENVI) Committee

held an exchange of views on

the own-initiative draft report

on a European strategy for

plastics in a circular economy

on 16 May.

During the meeting, the

Rapporteur MEP Mark

Demesmaeker (ECR – BE)

presented his draft Report

underlining in his views the way

in which plastics are produced

and used today is both

unaffordable and

unsustainable. Therefore, the

Rapporteur shared his belief

that plastics should be kept in

the value chain for as long as

possible. This could be done by

ensuring that, among others:

All packaging plastics

placed on the European

market is reusable or

recyclable by 2030, as

proposed by the

Commission in the

Plastics Strategy. In this

regard, an update of the

essential requirements for

packaging is needed;

There are quality

standards of recycled

plastics;

There is more coherence

between chemical,

product and waste

legislation;

The new EU laws on

waste are properly

implemented.

Additionally, MEP

Demesmaeker noted that

there are many

misconceptions and

misunderstandings about bio-

plastics, biodegradable,

compostable and bio-based

plastics. He therefore

supported the Commission's

intentions to coming forward

with harmonised rules on both

bio-based content and

biodegradability.

With regard to microplastics, he

called for a ban on

microplastics which are

intentionally added to

products, pointing out the

need for a ban of microplastics

in cosmetics where viable

alternatives are available. As

previously shared, Cosmetics

Europe is engaging with MEPs

to defend the wording on

viable alternatives and to

educate around the REACH

restriction process.

Regarding innovation, he

underlined the need to

strengthen and estimulate it

and called to include it in the

next Multiannual Financial

Framework.

The majority of MEPs welcomed

the draft report, calling the EU

to maintain this political

momentum to address the

problem of plastic pollution.

They also called for a stop to

using plastic bottles in the

European Parliament buildings.

MEP Bonafé (S&D – IT) clarified

this is not a strategy against

plastics, but a strategy to

manage it. International

cooperation will be key to

address the “plastic

challenge”. MEP Jäätteenmäki

(ALDE – FI) recognised that the

problem of plastic pollution

cannot be resolved only by

legislation. Different measures

are needed on many fronts

with a view to increasing public

awareness, reducing the total

use of plastics, boosting

recycling rates and designing

products for longer use.

The Commission welcomed the

15 CONTENT

discussions in the Committee

and pointed out the urgency

of addressing the

environmental challenges

posed by plastics. The

Commission confirmed the

strategy contains more than 60

actions that need to be

delivered in the near future;

however, some of these

actions have a 2030 target

such as the update of the

essential requirements on

packaging.

In response to certain MEPs'

remarks, the Commission

clarified that in order to boost

recycling and prevention, a

mix of policy initiatives is

needed, including regulation

and self-regulation from the

industry. Finally, the Commission

pointed out the challenge

posed by bio-based plastics

and biodegradable plastics.

The former can be a good

substitute, however more

sustainable sources are

needed. The latter could be

misleading to consumers as

they may be led to believe

that biodegradable plastics

can be disposed of without

major consequences to the

environment, which is not

actually the case.

Amendments to the PECH

opinion to the report

addressing the Plastics Strategy

overall were made publicly

available this week. A

significant number of those

address the issue of

microplastics in the context of

the marine litter issue. These

amendments unfortunately

prove that the level of

awareness about the ongoing

ECHA restriction process under

REACH is still quite low among

MEPs despite our ongoing

efforts and those of the

Commission and that more

engagement could be

envisaged to further explain

how the Commission took

actions and that a regulatory

process is ongoing. This

engagement is ongoing.

Cosmetics Europe requested

this year a meeting with the

main rapporteur of the PECH

opinion, MEP John Flack (ECR,

UK). He refused the meeting as

he explained he did not intend

to address the question of

land-based plastic materials as

this is under the remit of the

ENVI Committee, working on

the main own-initiative report.

He explicitly expressed his

position in a recent PECH

Committee meeting,

highlighting that the opinion

report of the PECH Committee

should only address

pragmatically the issue of sea-

based plastic pollution. His

views are not necessarily

shared by all his peer-

colleagues in the PECH

Committee.

ENVI Committee MEPs will have

until 22 May to submit

amendments to the draft

Report. The vote in the ENVI

Committee is provisionally

scheduled for 9-10 July 2018.

Once adopted, the

Committee Report will be

submitted for a plenary vote,

likely during the plenary week

of 10 September. The Council is

expected to adopt the

Conclusions by June,

likely during the Environment

Council of 25 June.

EU Member States give initial thoughts on

Commission MFF proposal

European Commissioner for

Budget, Günther Oettinger,

presented to EU Ministers during

the General Affairs Council

meeting on May 14th the draft

Commission proposal for the

Multi-Annual Financial

Framework for the 2021-2027

period.

The Commissioner explained

that the UK's withdrawal from

the EU means a €10-14 billion

gap in the budget. The

Commission proposes to

address this gap by including

some cuts and some increases

depending on priorities and

approaches.

Ministries shared their views on

16 CONTENT

the various elements from the

draft budget. A lot of

divergences were identified,

depending on which Member

States intervened, or the topics

addressed.

From a general

perspective, Latvia, France,

Estonia, Cyprus, Luxembourg,

Italy, Denmark and Belgium

consider the Commission's

proposal is a reasonable basis

for further work attempt but

more balance is needed.

Finland, Austria and the

Netherlands consider the

proposal is not acceptable in

its current form, and needs to

be more ambitious and

financially sustainable.

Austria, Sweden,

Denmark, Finland, Cyprus and

the Netherlands oppose an

increased contribution, calling

instead for the budget increase

to be capped at 1% (N.B: the

Commission proposes a 1.14%

budget increase), as it should

also take into account the UK’s

departure from the EU. The

other Member States

presented willingness to

increase their contribution to

the budget, though it was

highlighted that the absence

of the UK would result in

increasing Germany’s

contribution to 24-25% of the

overall EU budget.

In relation to the

Common Agricultural Policy

(CAP), Finland, Portugal, Latvia,

France, Hungary, Croatia, Italy,

Romania, Ireland, Malta,

Poland, Greece, Lithuania,

Slovakia and Slovenia have

serious concerns over the

Commission’s proposal to

reduce the allocation of

resources in that area.

On the proposal to

reduce funding of Cohesion

policies, no general trends

were observed: almost all

Member States have

individually a specific position

and it remains at this stage still

difficult to identify camps.

Portugal, Finland, France,

Croatia, Italy and Greece

welcomed the Commission’s

proposals for new own

resources (i.e. harmonisation

tools to sustain the European

Union with national taxation).

However, France, Italy and

Greece felt that the

Commission’s proposals were

not ambitious enough. On the

other hand, Cyprus, Sweden,

Luxembourg, Belgium, Czech

Republic, Ireland and Malta

presented concerns about the

Commission’s proposal.

Most Member States

openly welcomed the new

priorities in the budget,

particularly for digitalisation,

research and innovation, and

the Erasmus Programme,

including France, Croatia,

Sweden, Italy, Ireland and

Malta. Austria however felt that

more could be done for these

areas.

The Commission

proposed in its draft MFF a

“conditionality” provision linked

to the state of the rule of law in

EU Member States. This is

proven to be a very

controversial element from the

draft for Member States.

To conclude, Commissioner

Oettinger reminded the

Ministers that not all proposals

have been published yet (the

proposal to address funding in

Research and Innovation is

announced for June 6th for

instance).

As for next steps, the Council

will share in the coming month

to the Commission and the

Parliament its amendments to

the proposals. The Parliament

will be then invited to accept

or not the Council’s position. In

case of non-agreement, a

Conciliation Committee with

representatives from all three

institutions will be created to

reach an agreement before

the end of 2018. As far as the

Parliament is concerned, work

has started in the Committee

for Budgets (BUDG) to define a

final compromise position

among the political groups -

see the article below for further

information.

17 CONTENT

EU Ombudsman concludes lack of transparency of

the Council legislative process is

maladministration

The European Ombudsman,

addressing issues of

maladministration in the

European Institutions, opened a

case in March 2017 following

the reception of complaints

about the lack of transparency

of the decision making process

in the Council, and especially

at the technical level in the

Working Parties (national

experts based in the

Permanent Representations in

Brussels or in Ministries in EU

Capitals).

The Ombudsman published this

week her final conclusion: the

lack of transparency of the

Council decision-making

process is considered to be a

case of maladministration and

significant changes should be

implemented to this process.

The Ombudsman therefore

defined and shared with the

Council the following (non-

binding) recommendations:

Systematically record the

identity of Member State

governments when they

express positions in

Council preparatory

bodies.

Develop clear and

publicly-available criteria

for how it designates

documents as ‘LIMITE’, in

line with EU law (‘LIMITE’

documents may not be

made public).

Systematically review the

‘LIMITE’ status of

documents at an early

stage, before the final

adoption of a legislative

act.

Conduct a review within

12 months of the date of

this Recommendation of

how the Council meets

its legal obligation to

make legislative

documents directly-

accessible, to lead to the

adoption of appropriate

new arrangements within

a further 12 months.

Adopt guidelines

concerning the types of

documents that should

be produced by

preparatory bodies the

context of legislative

procedures and the

information to be

included in those

documents.

Update the Council’s

rules of procedure to

reflect the current

practice of disclosing

legislative documents

containing Member

States’ positions.

List all types of

documents in its public

register.

Improve the user-

friendliness and

‘searchability’ of the

public register of

documents.

Develop a dedicated

and up-to-date

webpage for each

legislative proposal,

following the example of

the European

Parliament’s Legislative

Observatory.

Whoever has to deal with

monitoring the activities in the

Council would fully welcome

these recommendations.

Having the same level of

information from the Council as

already provided by the

Parliament would significantly

improve the monitoring of the

Council at Cosmetics Europe

level.

Cosmetics Europe will monitor

the follow-up actions. The EU

Ombudsman already

announced issuing a report for

the European Parliament,

addressing and leveraging

these conclusions.

18 CONTENT

EU-US Trade dispute - EU lists for counter

measures published

The Commission published on

Friday 18th in the official journal

of the EU its draft retaliation lists

to be used in case the US does

not exempt the EU from its

measures against

steel/aluminium import. The lists

have also been notified today

to WTO.

The successful outcomes of the

industry engagement has been

formally confirmed:

Lip products have been

moved from List 1 to List 2

and will therefore not be

considered for short term

retaliatory action. Most

likely, the products on List

2 will actually not come

to play, in the

expectation that the

trade dispute would be

fully settled by 2021.

A number of cosmetic

raw materials contained

in the initial draft List 2

have been totally

removed.

Notification to the WTO does

not yet mean that tariffs will be

imposed on the products

contained on the lists.

However, unless there are

negative comments from WTO,

the Commission can as of 20

June 2018 decide - by

implementing act - to impose

tariffs on the products

contained in list 1. It can also as

of 23 March 2021 decide - by

implementing act - to impose

tariffs on the products

contained in list 2.

The possible impact on the

cosmetics industry now

depends on the final scope of

the US measures to be

declared on June 1st:

Should the US

permanently exempt the

EU from its measures,

there would be no

impact for the cosmetics

industry;

Should the US reduce the

measures against EU

(e.g. by exempting

certain products), the EU

would need to adapt its

list and remove products

from List 1, amounting to

an equivalent amount;

Should the US maintain its

measures against the EU

unchanged, the whole

of List 1 will be used by

the EU in its counter

measures.

Under scenario 2, the EU would

have to revisit List 1 and

remove products from it.

Therefore this would be the

opportunity to further engage

at both EU and national levels

to get further categories of

cosmetic products removed

from the EU retaliation list.

Cosmetics Europe has properly

informed all relevant groups in

its structure and has again

raised awareness among the

AAM network in case further

engagement would be

required as of June 1st.

[Самият Регламент можете

да разгледате ТУК.]

IMCO MEPs discussed amendments of the INI resolution

on dual quality of products

IMCO MEPs discussed on May

17 the 199 tabled amendments

of the own-initiative draft report

on dual quality of products in

the single market.

As previously shared, the draft

report and its amendments

add further pressure on the

cosmetics industry, claiming

that the issue is not only about

food products but beyond.

19 CONTENT

First, the main Rapporteur MEP

Olga Sehnalová (S&D - CZ)

presented the problem of dual

quality of products in the single

market and the relevant

Commission's initiatives that

have been carried out so far.

The Rapporteur stressed the

need for the same quality in

products marketed under the

same label in the EU, while

claimed that the gravity of the

problem has been already

identified by producers

undertaking to change the

dual quality practices. MEP

Sehnalová stressed that dual

quality should be put on the

Unfair Commercial Practices

Directive blacklist (Annex I of

the UCPD) and

that cooperation among the

competent surveillance bodies

is crucial as stressed by the

amendments submitted by the

IMCO Committee MEPs. She

concluded that consumers

need to benefit totally from the

EU single market.

MEPs welcomed the New Deal

for Consumers Commission

initiative. MEP Stefanec (EPP –

SK) referred to the role of

consumers' organisations

whose role needs to be

strengthened and to the

assessment of whether a

commercial practice is unfair,

which should be performed on

a case by case basis. MEP Sulik

(ECR – SK) stated that it is not

feasible to have the same

quality standards across the EU

because living costs are

different in many Member

States while concluded that

national initiatives, sharing best

practices among the Member

States and raising public

awareness campaigns can

offer the final solution. Lastly,

MEP Charanzova (ALDE, Czech

Republic) was confident of a

good final result on the basis of

the amendments

submitted. According to

her, consumers' organisations'

role should be strengthened in

the Member States.

The IMCO Committee has

appointed MEP Daniel Dalton

(ECR, UK) as the Rapporteur for

the proposal. The other political

groups are still to nominate

their Shadow Rapporteurs.

Cosmetics Europe is not

engaging on the IMCO INI

report nor on the proposal from

the New Deal for Consumers

package as the Secretariat has

no mandate for taking a

position or proactively engage

with decision-makers.

The SCT ARC Breakout group

on Alleged dual quality had a

call this week. A list of

immediate next steps was

agreed by the group, and are

actionned already by the

Secretariat. Also, an update

was given to AAM on May

17th: AAM were kindly

requested to inform Cosmetics

Europe if their national

authorities agree to implement

the testing of food products on

the basis of the JRC

methodology. This would be

considered as valuable

information in the scenario

where Member States would

potentially test cosmetics and

personal care products as from

next year. This work is ongoing.

Intelligence on the European Strategy to address

endocrine disruptors

As announced in July 2017, the

European Commission is

currently working on reviving

the European Strategy to

address endocrine disruptors,

updating the first strategy

issued in 1999. This follows the

recent adoption of scientific

criteria for identification of

substances with endocrine

disrupting properties used in

plant protection and biocidal

products.

The new Strategy aims at

having an horizontal

application of these criteria,

especially for the sectors of

toys, food contact materials

and cosmetics. In the

meantime, the European

Agencies ECHA and EFSA

continue to work on their

guidance for the

implementation of the criteria;

a first draft guidance is

expected to be submitted to

an open public consultation in

June.

Finally, the European

Commission still has not

published the report reviewing

how the Cosmetic Products

regulation address ingredients

with endocrine disrupting

properties, as required under

article 15.4 ‘when identification

20 CONTENT

criteria will be adopted or by

January 2015’ (the European

Ombudsman has opened this

year a case against the

Commission for

maladministration).

Latest Cosmetics Europe

intelligence on the strategy is

that the Community Strategy

would take the form of a non-

binding European

Commission’s Communication.

The Communication would

summarise and clarify that the

Commission has already done

everything needed to address

endocrine disruptors. The

Communication is not

expected to announce

commitments or tangible next

steps that would bind the

Commission to further deliver ;

this remains to be confirmed.

No publication date has been

shared yet.

Regarding the Article 15.4

report, Cosmetics Europe

understands that there should

not be a publication as long as

there is no developments on

the Community Strategy.

Intelligence received by

Cosmetics Europe continues to

be that this report is a strongly

linked and additional activity

to the main Strategy.

Cosmetics Europe was invited

last week to participate to a

Parliament event on this topic.

This was a technical debrief

event organised by the ALDE

political group for their political

advisors and assistants in the

Environment Committee. It was

organised with the support of

the Center for Alternatives to

Animal Testing (CAAT), which is

a respected stakeholder in this

field and close to the European

Partnership for Alternative

Approaches to Animal Testing

(EPAA).

Rob Taalman, Science Director

of Cosmetics Europe,

participated to the event as a

speaker. All the key messages

were shared about the role of

the SCCS and that these

experts already look in there

safety assessment activities to

endocrine disrupting properties

of substances, as established in

the SCCS notes of guidance

from 2014. Feedback received

from participants overall was

positive

The SCT ARC Breakout group

on Endocrine Disruptors had a

call this week. A list of

immediate next steps was

agreed by the group, and are

actionned already by the

Secretariat. At this stage, we

were informed by the

Commission (Secretariat

General) that it was too early

for a proper interaction.

Cosmetics Europe continues to

contact the Commission.

MEPs express initial thoughts on Commission

MFF proposal in BUDG Committee

MEPs from the European

Parliament's Committee on

Budgets (BUDG) addressed on

May 16th the Commission's

proposal for the Multi-annual

Financial Framework (MFF) and

the proposal on Own

Resources.

Though very initial comments

from the European Parliament,

shortly following the publication

of the proposals, were quite

positive, MEPs have now taken

a more critical stance on this

regard. One of the reason of

the critics were also that

Commission Günther Oettinger

did not join the Committee at

this occasion.

The proposed cuts to the CAP

and the area of Cohesion

policies were criticised strongly

by MEPs. More importantly,

MEPs put into question the

methodology and the figures

followed by the Commission to

calculate the project of a

future budget. According to a

work prepared by the

Secretariat of the BUDG

Committee, the cuts in the

Cohesion policies area could

be not of 7% as announced but

21 CONTENT

of 45%. MEPs consider these

cuts, if confirmed,

unacceptable and that the

Commission did not take

seriously the exercise of

shaping the future MFF.

Finally, MEPs also blamed the

Commission for not having

followed the views of the

Parliament for the next MFF as

adopted recently in an own-

initiative report.

Nadia Calviño, Director-

General for Budget at

Commission level attended the

discussions. She said that the

Commission’s package already

contains the numbers that the

Parliament was asking for. She

also stated that the

Commission could only provide

the Parliament with additional

figures once the Commission

itself will make all decisions as

to what to include in the

sectorial reports.

MEPs in the BUDG Committee

agreed to draft a motion for a

resolution to provide already to

the other institutions an official

but non-binding position on the

Commission’s proposals. This

could influence the next steps

towards the final adoption of

the MFF for the 2021-2027

period. The draft resolution is

expected to be published as

from next week.

The Parliament seems therefore

to take a very critical initial

position ahead of negotiations

with the Council as part of the

formal and specific decision-

making process for the

adoption of the budget for the

EU (for more details about the

process, see the previous

article on the Member States

reaction to the MFF).

New trend alert: Shaping brows in China

By Natasha Spencer

Global market intelligence provider, Mintel, explains how

and why Chinese beauty shoppers are turning their attention to

eyebrow make up.

In China, eyebrow make up is a leading active subcategory in the

country’s colour cosmetics market. Styles, trends and specific looks vary

from glamorous and sophisticated to simple and every day.

Brow fashions

On-the-go and DIY beauty

that highlight convenience,

eiciency, yet effectiveness

are dominating beauty and

cosmetics preferences in

China today.

Appearance is also important

and is often led by influencers

through marketing including

social media. Celebrities and

well-known personalities have

the power and reach to

impact consumer brow

choices.

Shapes are varied, ranging

from flat, natural, arched —

highlighting the all-day look

— to the wild brow designed

with socialising and glamour

in mind. As brow make up

choices straddle both

occasions, brands are now

starting to diversify their

offerings between special

occasion and every day

make up.

Taking inspiration from tattoos

Convenience, ease-of-use

and instantaneous results are

key. Consumers are seeking

brow products that highlight

its particular features

including the applicator or

texture, along with the

desired eyebrow shape.

22 CONTENT

Liquid-to-gel textures are also

applied to brows. Gels offer

an easy to apply alternative

to traditional makeup. Taking

inspiration from tattoos,

brands including South

Korean brand Clio

Professional are launching

eyebrow products that

combine the popularity of

brow make up and maximise

the ease of application with

gels.

Add-on products are also on

the rise as consumers care

about looking after their

eyebrows. Growth boosters,

coatings and primers are just

some of the products

associated with this growing

make up subcategory.

Education on ‘brow care’

and informing consumers on

how best to achieve styles

and indicate elegant looks is

on the up. As such, eyebrow

hair strengtheners and anti-

ageing serums for the skin

close to the brows are next on

the production and

marketing agenda for

brands.

From lip care to eyebrows?

Lip care has also been a core

area in China as "[the nation] is

known for its colour cosmetics

achievements”, explained

Laurie Du, Senior Beauty

Analyst, Asia Pacific at Mintel.

This segment also looks

towards the premium market

to lift brand awareness,

highlight brand identities and

focus on online distribution

channels.

As both brands and

consumers are now

highlighting the importance

of eyebrow care, product

launchers need to diversity

their brow make up offerings

to satisfy the varying needs

of consumers.

SOURCE: William Reed Business Media Ltd;

Pycnogenol in Oral Skin Care

Pycnogenol® is widely used in topical and oral

applications for various dermatological indications. A

unique combination of pharmacological functions

of Pycnogenol® provides an unmatched variety of

health ben- efits for skin health.

0 10 20 30 40

unspecific protein collagen

23 CONTENT

Improved skin respiration

+14.4%

2

2

Pycnogenol® binds and protects collagen and elastin

Pycnogenol® has a high affinity to proteins rich in the

amino acid hydroxyl-proline. These are predominantly

the matrix proteins in the skin, collagen and elastin.

When Pycnogenol® is added to collagen or elastin, a

high amount remains tightly bound. In consequence,

Pycnogenol® also tightly binds to the skin. To other

proteins such as albumins Pycnogenol® has little af- finity

[Grimm et al., 2004].

Further experiments showed that Pycnogenol® as well as

its metabolites, developing after oral consumption in

humans, protects collagen and elastin from enzymatic

degradation. These enzymes, matrix metalloproteinases

(MMPs), influence the equilibrium between collagen

degradation and renewal. The in- hibitory

concentrations (IC50) of Pycnogenol® metab- olites were lower than that of a known MMP-

inhibitor.

Captopril. As an example, inhibition of collagen degradation by collagenase in presence of Pycnogenol® s

shown

Pycnogenol® increases skin elasticity

In a double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study with 62

women a complex formulation with Pycnogenol® as lead

active ingredient was shown to significantly increase skin

elasticity after 6 weeks oral treatment by 9% as compared to

placebo [Segger et al., 2004]. In addition to Pycnogenol® this

complex formulation (EvelleTM) bears various natural antioxi-

dants, minerals and vitamins.

Continuous intake of Pycnogenol® as formulated nto

EvelleTM for 12 weeks was shown to improve skin

smoothness significantly by 6% as compared to placebo.

Pycnogenol® enhances blood micro-circu- lation in the skin

Pycnogenol® enhances generation of endothelial nitric

oxide (NO) which is the key mediator facilitat- ing arterial

relaxation and consequently allows for optimal blood flow

[Fitzpatrick et al., 1998]. Oral Pycnogenol® supplementation

was found to increase blood perfusion of the skin and oxygen

partial pressure increased and, conversely, carbon dioxide con-

centration decreased [Belcaro et al., 2005]. This study

demonstrated an improved healing of wounds (ulcers) in

individuals with microcirculatory disorders.

An improved blood perfusion of the skin warrants optimal

supply with all important nutrients as well as better hydration to support skin vitality.

Pycnogenol® selectively binds to collagen and elastin and

protects these proteins from degradation.

Pycnogenol® enhances blood micro-circulation to the skin,

warranting better supply with oxygen and nutrients, with

better hydration and waste removal.

Pycnogenol® inhibits melanogenesis and lowers skin

pigmentation intensity.

Pycnogenol® is anti-inflammatory.

Skin elasticity in 62 women

baseline 2 3 4 5 6 weeks

Pycnogenol® (Evelle) Placebo control

Skin elasticity

24 CONTENT

Pycnogenol® helps prevent UV damage and photoageing

Exposure of the skin to UV-light generates oxygen radicals which in turn damage skin cells and connective

tissues. In an advanced stage the destructive process- es can initiate an immune response which is grossly

visible as sunburn. Activated immune cells cause sig- nificant damage to the skin, as they discharge even

more reactive oxygen species as well as MMPs which further degrade collagen and elastin. Altogether,

the immune response adds significant more harm to the skin than caused by UV-rays alone.

Pycnogenol® displays anti-inflammatory potency, as it inhibits the trigger (NF-kB), which governs the

pro-inflammatory machinery in immune cells. Oral application of Pycnogenol® to human volunteers

was shown to significantly inhibit (the trigger) NF-kB by 15% [Grimm et al., 2006]. For details on

inflammation please refer to PYCNOGENOL® AS ANTI-IN-FLAMMATORY.

Oral supplementation of healthy volunteers with Pycnogenol® was shown to inhibit the

inflammation caused by UV-exposure and consequently protected from sunburn [Saliou et al,

2001].

The individual UV-dose causing the first reddening of the skin (minimal erythema dose; MED) was

measured at baseline and again after 4 weeks supplementation with 1 mg Pycnogenol® per kg

body weight. This increased the UV-dosage necessary for causing sunburn by in average 60%.

Increasing the oral Pycnogenol® dosage to 1.7 mg per kg body weight for another 4 weeks consequently

further increased the MED to 85% compared to baseline values.

In pre-clinical trials orally applied Pycnogenol® was demonstrated to be protective also against chronic

UV-exposure induced skin malignancies. These findings point to a significant photo-protective and

antiphotoageing effect of Pycnogenol®

Pycnogenol® inhibits melanogenesis and lowers pigmentation intensity

In vitro experiments have suggested that Pycnogenol® inhibits tyrosine kinase in melanocytes and

thus lowers generation of skin pigments [Yasumuro et al., 2006].

A clinical study has demonstrated that Pycnogenol® is effective to lighten-up over-pigmented

areas of the skin in humans

These brownish spots or patches often develop particularly in the face of women, much less

frequently on other parts of the body. This type of hyper-pig- mentation of certain areas of the

25 CONTENT

skin is known in dermatology as chloasma, or melasma. Dermatologists have noticed that this

phenomenon often occurs to young mothers or women taking contraceptive hormones.

Moreover, it has been noted that oxidative stress is involved in over-production of skin pigments

and exposure to sunlight greatly contributes to further oxidative stress. Often aggressive chemical

peeling agents are applied to the skin, even though some are known to cause irreversible skin

damage.

Oral supplementation of 30 women with Pycnogenol® for one month reduced the size of skin

affected by hyper-pigmentation significantly by 37% [Ni et al., 2002]. And more importantly, the

average pigmentation intensity of women taking part in the trial was lowered by about 22%. In

this study Pycnogenol® was found to be effective to achieve a fair skin with- out any side-effects.

Pycnogenol® is a very potent antioxidant

Pycnogenol® has been shown in laboratory test- ing as well as in humans to provide significant

antioxidant potency to the body [Chida et al., 1999]. Pycnogenol® is effective for neutralizing a broad

range of oxygen radical species. Moreover, it protects vitamin E from oxidation and recycles oxidized (spent)

vitamin C back to the bioactive form [Rohdewald, 2002]. Pycnogenol® thus contributes to the antioxidant

network in the body. Following oral consumption of Pycnogenol® over a period of three weeks the blood

oxygen radical capacity (ORAC) of 25 volunteers increased significantly by 40% [Deveraj et al., 2002]. For

more details on the antioxidant activity of Pycnogenol® please refer to PYCNOGENOL® AS SUPER

ANTIOXIDANT.

SOURCE: I Horphag Research-Geneva, Switzerland I Horphag Research Asia-Shanghai, China I

Natural Health Science-Hoboken NJ, USA I www.pycnogenol.com I ©HORPHAG I

26 CONTENT

Recent intelligence on the "Lisbonisation"

Omnibus adaptation of the Cosmetic Products

Regulation

Cosmetics Europe recently

took contact with involved EU

officials on the Lisbonisation

proposal process in the three

main European institutions. All

intelligence gathered was

consistent and can be

summarised as follows:

There is not yet an

agreement between the co-

legislators on when to start the

trilogues negotiations and on

how to address them, i.e. the

need to define a methodology

in order to effectively and

efficiently tackle a significant

amount of amendments tabled

to a 400 pages legislative

proposal;

It is understood that

trilogues could start at the very

earliest at the end of June but

this is not yet confirmed. The

Parliament stands ready but

the Council is still preparing the

informal trilogues tool known as

the ‘four-column’ document

which would contain all

amendments and later the

agreed compromise position

between Parliament and

Council;

If this intelligence is

confirmed, the expected

consequence would be

therefore that nothing is to

happen before the Austrian

presidency (July-December

2018) and perhaps even during

the Romanian presidency (H1

2019) as far as the CPR is

concerned, depending on the

adopted methodology.

Cosmetics Europe continues its

informal discussions with the

decision-makers from all three

institutions. We also investigate

the possibility to obtain as soon

as prepared the informal

Council ‘Four-column’

document.

In the meantime, the

Regulatory and Legal work is

ongoing in order to define the

best possible options for the

future to address the issues

raised in the debate on this

topic as previously discussed in

the key various Cosmetics

Europe committees.

SOURCE: COSMETICS EUROPE

Reinventing Anti-aging & Skin Care for the Healthy

Aging Generation

Consumers' desire for well-aging solutions is

changing the beauty industry.

27 CONTENT

The anti-aging category is

thriving, driven by emerging

consumer demands and new

technologies. However, the

lens through which aging is

addressed in marketing and

product development

approaches has shifted toward

functionality and healthy

aging.

Fast-growing Category

During a presentation at in-

cosmetics Global, Kseniia

Galenytska, senior analyst,

beauty and fashion,

Euromonitor, noted that skin

care growth is resurgent—and

in fact outpacing all other

beauty categories—in part due

to the trend toward healthy

lifestyles. The fastest-growing

skin care sectors, per

Euromonitor data, are listed

below:

1. Anti-aging

2. Facial moisturizers

3. Facial cleansers

4. Facial masks

5. Sun Care

6. Toners

Future anti-aging sector growth

will be driven by consumer

awareness of the harm caused

by UV exposure and pollution,

said Galenytska. She added

that facial cleansers, masks

and moisturizers are driven by

consumer awareness of

preventing photoaging and

other issues.

These sentiments signal a wider

shift toward prevention of skin

damage related to

environmental pressures and

technology.

Related: Beauty Boom: How

Baby Boomers Shop for

Products

Consumer Motivators

Galenytska explained that

consumer sentiment varies by

age, but that all consumers use

skin care to:

Improve the look and feel of

their skin Achieve clear and

healthy-looking skin Address

specific concern

Prevent the signs of aging

“Correct” the signs of aging

Younger consumers are more

focused on functionality like

red spots or acne treatment,

while older consumers are

looking to prevent or correct

the signs of aging, said

Galenytska.

Top Benefits

According to Euromonitor data

presented during Galenytska’s

talk, the following list represents

the topmost skin care benefits

desired by consumers, listed in

descending order:

1. Moisturizing/hydrating

2. Sun protection/SPF

3. Anti-aging

4. Texture improvement/even

skin tone

5. Skin

brightening/luminosity/radianc

e

6. Wrinkle prevention

7. Pore refining/firming

8. Minimizing fine lines and

wrinkles

9. Correcting dark circles

10. Lightening/whitening

11. Anti-oxidant

12. Anti-blemish

13. Lifting, firming and anti-

sagging

14. Combatting free

radicals/anti-pollution

A New Anti-aging Vocabulary

The way brands talk about

aging or anti-aging is changing

to avoid alienating consumers

who feel left out by traditionally

aspirational marketing

messages. Therefore, brands

are increasingly focused on

protecting and enhancing the

looks of older consumers and

preventing skin damage

among younger consumers.

3 Lessons from the Food

Industry

Nutrition and internal balance

have long served the evolving

food and beverage industry

well. Galenytska noted that the

beauty sector can learn from

the trends seen in that

marketplace.

1. Keep it Clean

Clean label food and drink

launches have exploded in

North America and Western

Europe, with Asia Pacific and

Australasia following with more

moderate expansion. This

growth has been driven by a

demand for natural, minimally

processed products.

2. Keep it Simple

Simplicity is at the core of the

clean label/transparent food

and beverage revolution.

Beauty brands can look to

products like the RX Bar, which

lists its key ingredients and “No

BS” claim on front of the

28 CONTENT

packaging.

Similarly, S.W. Basics has

launched a range of products

with key ingredient counts in

the single digits. Its 3 Ingredients

Salve calls out its trio of

materials—sunflower oil, cocoa

butter and carnauba wax—on

the front of the packaging.

3. Go Probiotic

The rise of pre-, post- and

probiotics has been a key

component of the food and

beverage industry. These

microbiome- supporting

concepts are now rolling out

into beauty with a flood of new

launches from the likes of

GlowBiotics MD, Mother Dirt

and Gallinée.

Future Skin Care Innovation

Opportunities

Galenytska concluded with a

list of emerging opportunities

brands can leverage to usher

skin care and anti-aging into its

next phase of development:

Cannabis and CBD-inspired skin

care.

Natural efficacy, as found in

the Oil from Modern Botany.

Products built for outdoor

exercise, including moisture

control and SPF and anti-

pollution defense. Current

market examples include

Clinique Fit, Sweat Cosmetics

and Yuni, the latter of which

distributes through yoga

practitioners.

Experiential in-store shopping

experiences for athleisure and

wellness brands (in-store yoga

classes, VR fitness experiences,

etc.).

Internal balance: Offering

consumers enhanced benefits

such as stress relief and sleep

supports.

Personalization, such as that

seen with brands like Custom

D.O.S.E from L'Oréal and

SkinCeuticals, EpigenCare and

SkinGenie.

SOURCE:

Rose-inspired skin care is gaining momentum, says

market researcher Kline

By Deanna Utroske

At the Indie Beauty Expo in NYC last August,

Cosmetics Design noticed a pervasive trend: a bulk

of rose waters and other rose skin care products

were hitting the market. Since then, rose colored

clays, rose quartz facial rollers, and countless other

rose (themed) beauty ingredients and skin care

products have materialized.

Josephine Cosmetics launched

a similar product called Rose

Rejuvenate Organic Tonic Elixir

(this one is formulated with both

white and Damask roses). Read

more about IBE NYC 2017 trends

and highlights here

Now, this month, Kline has

released data showing that “16

rose-infused products rank

among the top 100 products in

the astringent/toners segment

of the facial skin care category

in March 2018, [as] compared

with only 11 in January 2018.”

To arrive at this conclusion, Kline

29 CONTENT

looked at data gleaned from 20

online retailers that are tracked

by the

According to the database,

Leven Rose Moroccan Rose

Water Toner is the top product in

the astringent and toner

subcategory of skin care. At the

start of the year, that same

product was number 12.

“Several other rose-infused

toners improved their rank,” as

well, according to Kline. “Burt’s

Bees Rosewater Toner, which

moves up 16 points to place

number 5, and Mario Badescu

Facial Spray Rosewater &

Green Tea Duo, which climbs

four slots to the 14th ranked

position.”

Many other rose-inspired skin

care products have shown up in

Kline’s Amalgam database for

the first time this month: “Mary

Tylor Naturals Organic Rose

Water Toner Spray as the #46

ranked astringent/toner and

Thayers Alcohol-Free Rose Petal

Witch Hazel Toner 3-count in the

81st position.”

Rose-derived ingredients make

sense in skin care formulations,

Kline notes, because of the

flower's “redness-reducing and

skin-soothing beneits.”

Larger than life

It seems that everything is

coming up roses just now. And

that this trend will continue for

some time. As stated in Kline’s

media release about rose-

inspired skin care, "the rose

theme is having a moment in

other industries as well. As we

pay attention to the home

fragrance space for our Home

Fragrances: U.S. Market

Analysis and Opportunities

study, we notice several new

rose collections for Spring 2018,

from candle brands like

Voluspa and Archipelago, as

well as a roundup of rose

designs in fashion with the new

Rogue with Snakeskin Tea Rose

Rivers handbag by Coach.”

Rose is more than an

ingredient, more than an

emblem, more than a color;

and at least for now, rose is a

trend across industries and

categories. At The MakeUp

Show NYC (which closes today)

Smashbox Cosmetics launched

a new product line developed

in collaboration with Vlada

Haggerty called Rose. Gold.

Everything.

Single Use Plastics proposal expected to be

published this week

Cosmetics Europe gathered

intelligence confirming that the

Single Use Plastic proposal will

be adopted during this

Wednesday May 23rd at the

College of Commissioners

meeting and will be published

afterwards.

According to the leaked draft

of the Commission’s Single Use

Plastic proposal Cosmetics

Europe has seen, the EU intends

to tackle the most frequently

littered items, that include food

containers, food wrappers,

plastic bottles, cups and lids,

cigarettes filters, lightweight

plastic bags, wet wipes,

balloons and sanitary pads &

tampons.

The main objective of the

proposal will be to prevent and

reduce the impact of certain

plastics products on the

environment, in particular the

aquatic environment. The

proposal is based on a public

consultation (which took place

between December 17th, 2017,

and February 18th, 2018, and

received more than 1800

contributions) that showed that

more than 70% of

manufacturers and more than

80% of brands and recyclers

consider action “necessary

and urgent”.

The leaked draft proposal

defines single use plastics as

"products made wholly or

partly from plastics that are not

conceived, designed and

placed on the market to

accomplish within its life-cycle

multiple trips or rotations by

being refilled or re-used for the

same purpose for which it was

conceived". Plastic is defined

as "a polymer within the

meaning of Article 3(5) of

Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006

of the European Parliament

and of the Council (REACH), to

which additives or other

substances may have been

added".

For the above mention items

(all listed in Annex A, part C of

the draft proposal), as well as

for fishing gears, the

30 CONTENT

Commission plans to make

producers pay for the cost of

collection, transport and end-

of-life treatment, as well as for

the cost of cleaning up marine

litter and of awareness

campaigns against littering,

according to the draft

proposal. Member states shall

ensure that extended producer

responsibility (EPR) schemes are

established for these items.

Additionally, these items will

have to be labelled to inform

consumers of the available

recycling options and of the

impact littering has on the

environment and the sea.

Cosmetics Europe will analyse

the Commission’s Single Use

Plastics proposal as soon as it is

published and will inform

members of the key points

addressed in the proposal of

relevance for our sector and

next steps for Cosmetics

Europe.

Sognap releases soap with ice cream tulip extract

By Natasha Spencer

In a cosmetics industry-first, South Korean beauty name, Sognap,

innovates using ice cream tulip extract.

Combining the popularity and innovative potential of beauty, food and

flowers, Sognap unveils its latest offering combining all three.

New launch

The Seoul-based cosmetics

brand revealed its newly-

launched soap,

on 14th May 2018. Taking

inspiration from its domestic

market and local industry

development, Sognap, has

produced the body wash

item using rare ingredients.

Its ice cream soap contains

ice cream tulip extract for the

first time in cosmetics

formulation. Ice cream tulip is

an extract from a rare type of

tulip — a symbol of the

Netherlands — which

connects the brand to

European target customers.

Sognap successfully sold its

first batch of 2,000 beauty

items following its initial

market release. To develop its

entry, a core part of Sognap’s

recent release has been its

social media presence and

content strategy.

The brand has highlighted the

uniqueness of its ingredients

and its novel shape, which

contains female hearts, to

promote its innovation.

Ice cream tulip

The Sognap product line

includes the ice cream tulip

extract. Its main ingredients

are salicylic acid, which

offers soothing abilities for

acne-prone skin and carries

antibacterial action, and

arginine, which provides

nutritional benefits and

boosts vitality with its

antioxidant capabilities.

A two-step item that includes

a body soap and white-balm

bath preparation, the soap

also contains peony root

extract, a soothing

ingredient designed to cool

the skin and offer freshness.

With both moisturising, acne

care and bath preparation

included, Sognap’s soap

describes itself as the first

cosmetics item to contain the

ice cream tulip.

SOURCE: William Reed Business Media Ltd;

31 CONTENT

UK Government moving towards ban on make-

up wipes that contain plastics

Make-up wipes could soon be

banned in the UK as part of the

Government’s continuous

effort to crackdown on plastic

waste.

Despite being described as

“flushable”, the popular beauty

product is affecting marine life

because wipes do not able to

break down naturally (they are

non-biodegradable).

“As part of our 25-year

environment plan, we have

pledged to eliminate all

avoidable plastic waste, and

that includes single-use

products like wet wipes,” said a

spokeswoman for the

Department for Environment,

Food and Rural Affairs (Defra).

“We are continuing to work

with manufacturers and

retailers of wet wipes to make

sure labelling on packaging is

clear and people know how to

dispose of them properly.”

Although Defra declined to say

when the measure to cut down

on wet wipes would begin, it

did say it would support

manufacturers to develop

plastic-free versions.

Wipes are also contributing

towards other environmental

issues – 93% of blockages,

known as fatbergs, within UK

sewers and pipes are caused

by them, according to a report

by water and sewage trade

body Water UK.

The Government has said it will

also consult over whether to

ban plastic straws, cotton buds

and drink stirrers.

SOURCE:

www.worldspawellness.com

Using culture as a marketing method

By Natasha Spencer

Storytelling is having a dramatic impact on how indie brands are crafting,

communicating and connecting communities both online and oline. In this

special focus on how Asia-Pacific brnads of today are marketing, we look at

how the culture is increasingly forging fruitful relationships with companies and

consumers.

32 CONTENT

Strategic acquisitions, alliances

and agreements have been

popping up throughout APAC

in 2018. Cross- border

partnerships and commitments

are rising to enable deeper

relationships and increased

market share.

In February 2018, P&G

acquired New Zealand skin

care company, Snowberry,

which uses science and

biodiscovery in its snowberry

gardens to raise the profile of

nature and natural resources in

its domestic landscape.

In an exclusive interview with

Azelis, the speciality chemicals

supplier, revealed that it was

concentrating its growth plans

in Oceania as it named

Australia and New Zealand as

“springboards for Asian

markets”.

Bringing culture into the story

Authentic content, social

media, influencer and ailiate

marketing is now not only

personalised and targeted by

drawing upon the non-

commercial aspirational pull to

appeal to beauty and personal

care shoppers.

Culture, traditions, heritage all

forming a vital part of brand

stories, ‘about us’ and

advertising campaigns to

showcase their uniqueness.

Innovative formulations and

ingredient usage are then

trickling through into mission

statements, visions and values

to create a strong domestic

brand.

Demographics and aspirations

As these cross-border

relationships grow, individual

brands need to focus on, well,

their uniqueness to entice and

attract shoppers from overseas.

Travel, leisure and

entertainment are high on the

agenda for our buyer-led

marketplace, where we value

time as a crucial part of the

shopper journey and seek out

experiences over material

possessions.Resonating with

consumers through targeted

and tailored marketing

channels and platform

provides an unmissable

opportunity to invoke nostalgia,

share experiences and

encourage an audience that

enjoys learning about the

culture of the brand, its

products and solutions.

A unique proposition

Indie brands “tend to have

interesting brand concepts and

stories to tell, and are often

founded based on an

identified gap in the beauty

space— something that

appeals to consumers these

days against the myriad of

mainstream products in the

marketplace”, Kwek added.

They have the ability to “inject

excitement into Asia Paciic’s

beauty scene”, enthused

Sharon Kwek, Senior Innovation

and Insights Analyst, beauty

and personal care at Mintel.

Making stories relatable and

compelling is crucial to

generate real conversations

with shoppers.

Whether it is a domestic or

overseas marketplace, intrigue,

interest and aspirations to

travel encourage consumers.

These are also coupled with

sustainable and ecological

messages. Together, these

encourage beauty buyers to

engage and grow loyal to a

marketing approach that

bridges the gap between

company and consumer and

draws you into their brand

experience, and culture.

SOURCE: William Reed

Business Media Ltd;

Who’s disrupting beauty now?

Imitation may be the sincerest form of lattery but in the beauty business

world it can also be the fiercest form of competition. At last week’s CEW

event in New York City, niche brand leaders from L'Oréal and Unilever

took the stage to share insights on their company’s new launches for so-

called institutionless consumers. Could this the beginning of the end of indie

beauty?

33 CONTENT

Last Thursday at Meredith

Corp’s new offces in Lower

Manhattan,

Cosmetic Executive Women

hosted a panel event entitled

The Institutionless Consumer.

The consumer in question is the

beauty shopper who trusts

people more than brands and

has gravitated to indie beauty

in recent years, drawn in by the

genuine stories of indie brand

leaders, the simplified

ingredient strategies, and the

opportunity for direct

engagement with niche brands

(like what’s happens on social

media).

As a CEW promo for the event

put it, “There’s a new breed of

beauty consumer who values

trust and authenticity as much

as the products themselves.”

The panel, moderated by

Jenny B. Fine, executive beauty

editor of WWD, included Lisa

Feierstein, trend strategist at

TrendWatching; Marcia Kilgore,

founder of Beauty Pie; Molly

Landman, global brand

director of Unilever’s Love

Beauty & Planet and

ApotheCARE Essentials brands;

and Shane Wolf, international

brand general manager for

L’Oréal’s newly launched Seed

Phytonutrients brand.

New niche brands

The new brands from Unilever

and L’Oréal were developed

very much in the image of

successful indie brands but with

the know-how and resources of

multinational beauty makers.

Unilever created the Love

Beauty & Planet and

ApotheCARE Essentials as “new

brands [that] harness the scale

of what Unilever does well,”

says Landman. The company

wanted to “put forward new

innovation,” “to make things

that felt like they were not from

Unilever,” she says, quickly

adding that the company

never shies away from the fact

that Love Beauty & Planet and

ApotheCARE Essentials are

Unilever brands.

L’Oréal’s new brand Seed

Phytonutrients was developed

by “five people in Buck’s

County [Pennsylvania],”

according to Wolf. The brand,

Wolf says, “operates

completely independently.”

And, an item on L’Oréal’s site,

affrms as much, saying, “Seed

Phytonutrients operates as an

independent venture funded

by L’Oréal. The brand has

access to Group experts in

everything related to product

design but can also work with

independent partners and

suppliers.”

Curiously, for a brand

pioneering a new business

model that’s meant to renew

consumer trust in big beauty,

Seed snuck under the radar

and exhibited at this month’s

Indie Beauty Expo in Dallas,

Texas. (IBE defines 'indie' as 50%

founder owned.)

Big industry players have

moved fairly swiftly from

acquiring indie brands, to

incubating startups, and on to

developing niche brands.

What’s happening now is next-

generation intrapreneurship.

And, Wolf sees it a way to

disrupt the beauty and

personal care industry from the

inside. Reflecting on the recent

Seeds launch, he says, “we

actually made a difference in

an industry that needed to

change in [regard to]

sustainability.”

New savvy consumers

In response to a question about

how big beauty can effectively

reach consumers by launching

indie brands and not leave

them feeling duped. Feierstein

advises that beauty makers

“focus on people who don’t

care if indie is indie” and

instead, “deliver on what

people like about niche…. Do

niche,” she says, “do it best, be

accessible, and give your

brand a human face.”

But it’s not just new brands that

are using these strategies,

existing legacy brands have

been doing it lately too: like

when Coty did work to

connect the Sally Hansen nail

brand with Sally Hansen the

entrepreneur; or when Unilever

leveraged storytelling to better

market its iconic Vaseline

brand.

But what about consumers that

want the transparency of indie

beauty, proven product

benefits, and simply aren’t

interested in brand stories?

To meet these consumers’

needs, Kilgore’s Beauty Pie is

disrupting beauty by bypassing

brands altogether. Beauty Pie

is, she says, fundamentally a

buyers’ club where shoppers

pay for membership and can

buy beauty products made by

top manufacturers at cost.

All told, the way consumers

discover and consume beauty

is changing; and corporations,

brands, and entrepreneurs are

all busy developing product

and building strategies to meet

that demand.

SOURCE: William Reed

Business Media Ltd;

34 CONTENT

US FDA Pushes Sunscreen Reform on Three

Fronts

The U.S. Food and Drug

Administration (FDA) has

announced three new efforts

to advance its framework for

sun protection products:

1) ensuring accurately

promoted/marketed sunscreen

benefits; 2) supporting safer

and more effective sunscreen

innovations, now with

Maximal Usage Trials (MUsT);

and 3) enforcement guidance

for the OTC topicals industry.

These efforts are being set forth

now, before North American

consumers head into the

summer sun, and in line with

the #DontFryDay sunscreen

advocacy drive.

1. Ensuring Sunscreens Deliver

Advertised Benefits

According to an FDA

statement issued by Scott

Gottlieb, M.D., FDA

Commissioner, "Consumers

should know the products they

are using to protect themselves

are effective at guarding

against harmful UV radiation

and safe to use on themselves

and their families.

Unfortunately, this isn’t always

the case.

"We’ve found products

purporting to provide

protection from the sun that

aren’t delivering the advertised

benefits. Instead they’re

misleading consumers and

putting people at risk. Today

we sent warning letters to

companies illegally marketing

pills and capsules labeled as

dietary supplements that make

unproven drug claims about

protecting consumers from the

harms that come from sun

exposure without meeting the

FDA’s standards for safety and

effectiveness."

The products, including

Advanced Skin Brightening

Formula, Sunsafe Rx, Solaricare

and Sunergetic, according to

the FDA are putting people’s

health at risk by giving a false

sense of security that a dietary

supplement can prevent

sunburn, reduce early signs of

skin aging or protect against

skin cancer; although recent

research suggests they could,

along with sunscreens,

synergistically act to protect

skin.

"Today we sent warning letters

to companies illegally

marketing pills and capsules

labeled as dietary supplements

that make unproven drug

claims." -Gottlieb

"These companies were

instructed to correct all

violations associated with their

products and were advised to

review product websites and

product labeling to ensure that

the claims they are making

don’t violate federal law."

2. Safer, More Effective

Sunscreens Including Maximal

Usage Trials (MUsT)

The FDA also is encouraging

industry to continue innovating

and researching additional

sunscreen actives, and to help

answer critical questions about

their safety.

"There have been important

changes to how sunscreens are

used and delivered, including

recommendations on use.

When sunscreens first came on

the market, they were used

only occasionally at the

beach. Now people are

encouraged to use them

liberally whenever they are out

in the sun. So, our exposure to

sunscreens has greatly

increased," explained Gottlieb.

At the same time, growing

interest has been expressed

over whether active

ingredients in sunscreens may

be absorbed into the skin.

"When sunscreens first came on

the U.S. market, sunscreen

active ingredients were not

thought to penetrate the skin.

We now have evidence that

it’s possible for some sunscreen

active ingredients to be

absorbed through the skin. This

combination of a large

increase in the amount and

frequency of sunscreen usage,

together with advances in

scientific understanding and

safety evaluation methods, has

given rise to new questions

about what information is

necessary and available to

support general recognition of

safety and effectiveness

(GRASE) of active ingredients

for use in OTC sunscreens."

"A forthcoming proposed rule

that we have included in the

Unified Agenda will update

these regulations with the latest

science to help ensure that

consumers continue to have

access to safe and effective

sunscreens." -Gottlieb

As part of the Sunscreen

Innovation Act (SIA) enacted in

2014 to provide a new process

for the FDA to review the safety

and efficacy of sunscreen

actives, and as the

administration has outlined in

the safety and effectiveness

guidance for sunscreen active

ingredients evaluated under

the SIA pathway, a new draft

35 CONTENT

guidance has been issued for

the industry regarding Maximal

Usage Trials (MUsT) for topically

applied active ingredients

evaluated for inclusion in an

OTC monograph, including for

sunscreens.

"This draft guidance, when

finalized, will recommend that

these studies be conducted to

support the inclusion of an

active ingredient in an OTC

drug monograph. By laying out

these principles in draft

guidance on how

manufacturers can evaluate

the absorption characteristics

of topically applied active

ingredients being considered

for inclusion in an OTC

monograph, we hope to

encourage more product

innovation."

3. Enforcement Guidance

Finally, due to the regulatory

complexities involved, the FDA

also issued guidance to the

industry describing its

enforcement approach with

respect to OTC sunscreen

products marketed without

approved applications before

a final OTC sunscreen

monograph becomes

effective. In the interim, unless

a potential health hazard to

the consumer exists, the

agency does not intend to

object to marketing without an

approved application of OTC

sunscreen products that have

all of the characteristics

outlined in the guidance.

"The FDA continues to evaluate

scientific issues related to

sunscreens as we work to

finalize certain regulations

concerning nonprescription

sunscreen as required by the

SIA. A forthcoming proposed

rule that we have included in

the Unified Agenda will update

these regulations with the latest

science to help ensure that

consumers continue to have

access to safe and effective

sunscreens.

Consistent with the SIA, the

agency also expects to

address sunscreen dosage

forms and the effectiveness of

various SPF values.

Through this rulemaking

process, the group seeks to

balance the needed product

innovation with consumer

protection based on the latest

scientific evidence on these

products.

"The FDA’s expectations for

safety and effectiveness data

for additional sunscreen active

ingredients, which are being

considered through the SIA

process, are also meant to

ensure consumers have access

to sunscreens that are safe and

effective, and are developed

in a manner that is consistent

with modern scientific thinking

concerning safety and

effectiveness of sunscreens.

"The upcoming Don’t Fry Day is

a good reminder that we need

to reduce the risks from harmful

UV radiation. Given the

recognized public health

benefits of sunscreen use, the

FDA is committed to finding

ways to help bring a wider

assortment of safe and

effective sunscreen products to

the public."

SOURCE: COSMETICS &

TOILETRIES