2nd walk.pdf
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The Stoa Modiano building, the city’s main food market4
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•!"#" %& '()*& %& •)"#"& •!+&, - 1983.
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From AGHIAS SOPHIASand AGHIOU DIMITRIOU Streets
to IONOS DRAGOUMI Streetand the SEAFRONT
2nd WALK
Aristotelous Square – axis of Aristotelous Street (1) The main feature of the layout of the city, as conceived in the plans
drawn up by Ernest Hébrard, was the monumental Boulevard of the
Nations or of Aghios Dimitrios, now known as Aristotelous. This was to
connect the square gathering the city’s administrative buildings with
Aristotelous Square down at the waterfront, the latter being dedicated
to commercial and tourist uses, luxury shops, hotels and cafes. Speci-
!cations for the facades of the buildings on Aristotelous Square were
laid down in a special decree of 1923. The architecture of the buildings
and their facades is inspired by European as well as Arab and colonial
models, the fruit of earlier experiences by Hébrard and his French col-leagues, while neo-Byzantine tendencies are also to be seen.
‘Louloudadika’, the Baths of the Great Market (Yahudi Hamami) (2)In the Turkish records, the baths are known under a variety of names:
the Baths of the Great Market (Pazar-i kebir hamami), the Women’s
Baths (Kadinlar hamami) and the Jewish Baths (Yahudi hamami). The
latter, and best-known, name is owed to the location of the baths in an
exclusively Jewish district. According to Evligia Tselemi and the Turkish
archives, the baths were established by a certain Halil A"a, possibly the
individual known to have been a large stable owner and vezir in the mid-
17th century. More recent opinion, based on the typological and morpho-
logical characteristics of the building, would date it earlier, perhaps to
the !rst half of the 16th century. The baths were designed for use by both
sexes and have the typical triple layout (cold, warm and hot baths). The
masonry is of interest in its imitation of the Byzantine cloisonné system,
as is the internal decoration with plaster mortar.
Church of Aghios Minas (3) This is the church around which the city market began to grow, as early
as Byzantine times. During the period of Turkish rule, the Frangoma-
halas district extended to the west of the church. It assumed its currentform in the reconstruction of 1852, but we see from the conch of the
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chancel, the pulpit and the architectural sculpture that has survived
in the church, as well as that now held in the Museum of Byzantine
Culture in Thessaloniki, that the original church dated from the early
Christian period and was of the basilica type.
The earliest reference to the church dates from the 7th century, but there
are also occasional references in the documents of Athonite monasteries
from the 11th, 12th, 14th and 15th centuries. Following the Turkish occu-
pation of the city, the church remained in the hands of the Christians,
but was exposed to numerous misfortunes, such as the removal of six
columns in 1569, the bombardment by a Venetian warship in 1687, !res
in the 18th and 19th centuries. This is why it is referred to in the Turkish
records as the ‘Burned Monastery’ (Yanik Manastir).
Following the !re in 1839, it was rebuilt in 1852, as a three-aisled, post-
Byzantine basilica, under the supervision of the architect Rallis Pliou-
fos. The ornate interior decoration is in"uenced by the baroque-rococo
of central Europe and neoclassicism. The originality and innovativetendencies of the architecture and interior decoration of Aghios Minas
served as a model for other churches founded in the same period in the
city and in the surrounding region.
Saoul Stoa (4) The planning interventions carried out between 1866 and 1900 in the
historic nucleus of the city, involved the laying out of Sambri Pasha
Avenue (modern Venizelou St.) in 1867. The latter ran from the Konaki
• !"#$" %&'()*!)+, -# ) .'/-")0*"&) 1!2-')/, 3)+ #4#' ) 5#('67!8'/-")9&7:)+ ;#(("!)/$.<
View of Aristotelous Square, with the Olympion Theatre, home to the Thessaloniki Film Festival<
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is a simple rectangular structure with a pediment over the façade and
a glass roof. The complex is traversed by !ve stoes or arcades, along
which are rows of small food shops. A number of these still sell food,
while others have been turned into bars or restaurants, and some have
now closed down – the premises awaiting a new owner or use to revive
them.
Historic market sites (6): Vatikioti-Athonos (6a), Vlali (6b) Bezesteni(6c)Within the commercial centre of the city, between the streets Ermou-
Ionos Dragoumi-Egnatia-M. Yennadeiou-Karolou Diel, there are three
market complexes which have represented indispensable focal points
in the commercial life of the city for many decades, if not centuries.
There is ample evidence to convince us of the presence of markets on
this site since the time of Turkish rule, probably of the kind familiar in
other mediaeval eastern states. The area of the main market began atEgnatia Street, then known as ‘Broad Street’, and extended as far as the
southern side of the Church of Aghios Minas. To the east, it was bound-
ed by the district extending from Panayia Halkeon to the market baths
(Komninon St. – V. Irakleiou St.) and to the west by the avenue known
as Yali Kapsi (Seafront Gate). It was within the narrow streets and alleys
of this quarter that most of the city’s commercial activity took place. At
the heart of the district stood the Flour Market (Un Kapani), which is
mentioned in the older Turkish records as Kapan-i Galle or the Kapani, a
name still used by local people to refer to the market. But from the early
20th
century it ceased to function as a "our market and began to sell allsorts of goods: lime from Asvestohori, tin and earthenware vessels, rice
and pulses, meat and seafood. The little square in the centre of the Vlali
market was occupied by stalls selling pets and other animals like sheep
and chickens.
Following the !re of 1917, and the new layout of street blocks in the
market area, a programme was drawn up in October 1923 to sell off
small lots and create new markets in which rules would be laid down
for the various types of stores and goods to be sold in particular areas.
These rules have remained in effect to the present day.
Bezesten (covered market) (7) This building – one of the most important legacies of Ottoman Thessalo-
niki – was located right at the heart of the market area and represented
a focal point in the life of the city under Turkish rule. Its name is derived
from the Turkish word bez – meaning cotton or linen – and these build-
ings were mainly used as markets for high-quality cloths and fabrics,
although the markets did also house traders in other valuable and per-
ishable goods, and for this reason were often guarded. The Thessaloniki
Bezesten was built in the 15th century, either under Sultan Mehmet II
in 1455, or a little later, under Sultan Bayazit II, towards the end of the
same century. It is a rectangular structure with entrances at the centreof each side, divided internally into six blocks, and covered by six lead-
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87
covered domes that correspond to the internal layout of the building. The
stores located around the building were added in the early 20th century.
During the restoration work in 1978, carved inscriptions were found
on the lead sheets of the domes by craftsmen working on the building
between 1786 and 1927. Written in Greek, Turkish, French and south-
ern Slav, they indicate the nationalities of the men who worked on the
building at various times. Finally, it should be noted that this is one of
the very few Ottoman buildings in the city which has retained its original
use, although the modern visitor will probably not enjoy the same wealth
of sound, sight and smell that the market must have once offered.
Hamza Bey mosque (Alcazar) (8) The building is known locally as the Alcazar, because that was the name
of the cinema that was housed inside it for many years. It is one of the
most important examples of Ottoman architecture in all of south-eastern
Europe, the largest mosque with a peristyle courtyard and the only oneof its kind in Greece. Our knowledge of its origins and the various phases
of its construction is derived from inscriptions on the walls of the build-
ing. It was originally constructed as a mesçid or parish mosque without
a minaret in 1467/68 by Hafsa Hatun, daughter of Hamza Bey, Beyler
Bey of Anatolia. The original mesçid was later enlarged with the con-
struction of two rectangular areas on the northern and southern sides
of the original four-sided chamber, the addition of a perimetrical covered
! "#$%&"'( &)*+, -%$.$"'/01 235 *4 &160&478 9$', ': ";)<+*0: &0&"'(=>"( ':4?
The Bezesteni covered market (15 th century), after contemporary restoration.
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stoa to the west and the construction of a minaret at the south-western
corner of the original building. Some scholars date the conversion of the
building to a mosque to the years before 1492, most however agree that
the conversion work took place in the second half of the 16th century (be-
tween 1570 and 1592). A third reconstruction was carried out in 1620,
by Kapici Mehmed Bey. The main part of the mosque has survived in
good condition, with its lead-covered dome and its interior decoration,
featuring stalactites of plaster mortar and wall paintings. The columns
of the portico still have the original capitals, taken from early Christian
buildings. Work has recently begun on consolidating and restoring the
building.
Church of Panayia Halkeon (9)In the past, scholars identi!ed the Panayia Halkeon, a church dating
from the 11th century, with the Panayia Kamariotissa, mentioned in a
document of the 14th century. We do not know the exact Byzantine nameof the church, though it was probably called Panayia ton Halkoprateion,
like its namesake in Constantinople, since from the Byzantine era to the
present day the area around the church has been home to coppersmiths
and their wares. According to the inscription on the lintel of the western
entrance, the church was built by royal Protospatharios Christophoros,
the katepano of the theme of Lagouvardia, in 1028. The church now
stands well below the surrounding street level, as a result of earthworks
that have taken place, in particular in the wake of the great !re of 1917.
In terms of type, the church is cruciform with four columns and a dome.
The two-storey narthex is also covered by two domes. In the middle ofthe north wall of the central church, within an arcosolium, is the funer-
ary monument of the founder, a rectangular structure projecting from
the main wall. The organization of the external wall faces is interesting,
with a marble ornamental strip running all around the exterior of the
building. Beneath it, on the southern face of the church, glazed earth-
enware forming a frieze with cou!c decoration is preserved. The painting
inside the church is in poor condition, but of particular interest in that
most of the wall paintings date from the foundation of the church, as we
learn from a second inscription in the painted decoration, on the intra-
dos of the triumphal arch of the chancel, referring to the same founders.
The original painting of the church features two different techniques,
both originating in Constantinople.
Bey Hamami (Paradise Baths) (10) This large bathhouse was constructed in 1444 by Sultan Murat II, ac-
cording to the Arabic inscription above the entrance to the men’s baths.
The baths were designed for use by both sexes, with separate entrances
and facilities for men and women. The men’s baths are larger and more
opulently decorated. Of particular interest, with a ceiling magni!cently
decorated with stalactites, is the special area reserved for use of the Bey
himself, which communicates with the men’s hot bath. The bathhouseremained in use until as recently as 1968.
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Ancient - Roman Forum, Odeon (11) The main road artery of the city within the walls, the Roman Via Regia,
passed below the level of the modern Egnatia Street, on roughly the same
axis, linking the two main gates in the walls, the Golden Gate to the west
and the Cassandreotiki Gate to the east. To the north of this main road,
along the axis of Aristotelous Street, stood the entrance to the Roman fo-
rum – a monumental complex with squares and public buildings. Along
the northern colonnade of the lower square of the forum, stood the fa-
mous Incantadas, the caryatids now to be found in the Louvre. Along the
northern side of the forum, there were large public baths and the library.
The Roman forum was laid out at the end of the 2nd and !rst third of
the 3rd century AD. Despite various new constructions and changes dur-
ing the early Christian period, it remained the main social centre of the
city until the 7th century. The second square on the southern side, the
Megalophoros, functioned in Byzantine times as an open market without
porticos. It would also appear that the Odeon, behind the eastern porticoof the forum, used during the persecutions of Diocletian as an arena for
gladiatorial and wild animal !ght spectacles, continued to function until
at least the end of the 6th century. Characteristic features of the changes
to the forum in early Christian times were the conversion of the south-
ern, semi-subterranean portico (cryptoporticus) into a large reservoir for
the city’s water supply, and the establishment, in the eastern section of
the same portico, of a healing ‘agiasma’ or holy spring, where a large wall
painting featuring two martyrs was found.
• “Cryptoporticus ”, !" #!$%&'!" (•) * +-."/"* +&•-)*0The “Cryptoporticus”, the southern semi1subterranean portico of the ancient Forum0
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Diikitiriou Square Archaeological Site (12)
The excavations conducted here since the 1990’s have revealed layersof •nds indicating the presence of public and private buildings from all
periods of the city’s history: •nds from Roman times, a chapel with a
cemetery from the late-Byzantine period, a particularly interesting glass-
worker’s furnace, groups of dwellings from the Turkish and the more
recent period.
Experimental School (13)
This is one of the city’s historic schools, established to re!ect the innova-
tive educational views of the pioneering educator Alexandros Delmouzos
and now owned by the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki. Constructionof the school began in 1936, to plans drawn up by architect Dimitris
• !"# $%&'(& )!*&'(+",$-'. &$/ '" 01&(& 02-.,
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Modern Dikastirion Square, in front
of the ancient forum, following itsremodelling by the Municipality of
Thessaloniki5
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91
Pikionis (1889-1968), whose work aimed to combine certain key features
of traditional architecture with the imperatives of the modern movementof the inter-war period. Construction of the school was completed in
around 1970.
Tobacco warehouses of the Austro-Hellenic Tobacco Monopoly (14)
The tobacco warehouse complex consisted of two buildings, one on Tsi-
miski Street and one on V. Irakleiou Street, built in 1928 to plans by
architect A. Nikopoulos. The dynamic, linear forms of the facades are a
typical example of art deco. As part of a commercial development of the
site, featuring, shops, of!ces, leisure and parking facilities, the main
structure of the complex was demolished, leaving the two main facadesof the original building as screens before the new development.