2015 fall winter rodes fashion forum magazine

WHY YOU NEED A NEW TUX!TRIPS OF A LIFETIME

COATSFOR ALLREASONS

Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2015

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FEATURES50 Robert Curran Brings Good Form to the

Louisville Ballet52 New and Noteworthy56 Day into Night58 Profile: Above the Fray72 Designers: Giving Season74 In Living Color76 Destinations: A Buyer’s Guide to

Florence

FASHION13 Rodes Fall Fashion60 Formal and Fabulous64 Tuxedo Tune-Up66 Out of the Woods

DEPARTMENTS 4 Welcome Letter6 Happenings36 Ask Forum for Jim38 Ask Susan70 The Fashion Forum76 Wheels: What Drives Him78 Grooming: Barbershop Wisdom80 How to Get the Relationship You Want82 Spirits: Whiskey Stocks84 End Page: Dressing Up the

Weekend Wardrobe

CONTENTSRodes

502-753-RODES (7633)

rodes.com

4938 Brownsboro Road,

Louisville, KY 40222

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Karen Alberg Grossman

DESIGN DIRECTOR Hans Gschliesser

INTERIM MANAGING EDITOR Brian Scott Lipton

PROJECT MANAGER Lisa Montemorra

DESIGNERS Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti

CONCEPT DIRECTORS Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell

MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR Bob Mitchell

DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION Peg Eadie

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS John Frascone

BUSINESS JOURNAL S FASHION GROUP

PUBLISHER Stuart Nifoussi

PRESIDENT AND CEO Britton Jones

CHAIRMAN AND COO Mac Brighton

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM

Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO

Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA

Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN

Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH

Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA

Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX

Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA

Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY

Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT

Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN

Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY

Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA

Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX

Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR

MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2015. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS

JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-

8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 •

FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO

RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS

OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED

WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 18, ISSUE 2.

PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

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d e s i g n i n g f o r t h e w a y y o u l i v e

7 3 1 E a s t M a i n S t r e e t | 5 0 2 5 8 4 6 3 4 9 | w w w. b i t t n e r s . c o m

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wel

com

e

Fall is our favorite time of year because it’s all about change. The air turns crisp, leaves explode invibrant color, students select new curriculums and fall sports finally kick off. Change is the only con-stant in the world; we’ve embraced it and have transformed!

Among our in-store changes: we revamped the men’s side with Zegna and Eton shop-in-shops,keeping to our roots of offering the freshest luxe designs in men’s suiting, while expanding oursportswear to be casual with flair. We increased our selection by adding cool new lines for the nextgeneration, including Vince, Peter Millar, Hudson eans and Maurizio Baldassari.

The women’s side has had a complete facelift and we are excited about adding Blink Boutique. Weare proud to offer the best in contemporary and designer brands in both ready-to-wear and acces-sories. Rodes has always boasted great brands like Escada, Armani, St John, Etro and Lafayette 148;now we have added revolutionary lines like Shoshanna, Black Halo, Joie, and Vince.

Rodes has been re-energized! As the shopping destination for Louisville, our constant is our amaz-ing Rodes family, always dedicated to providing our clients with great service and inspiring fashions.Come in and see what’s fresh and new for you.

Thank you for your friendship and support!

See you around town,Susan & Howard Vogt

TURNING OVER A NEW LEAF

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Over 400 women (and Man- Divas)celebrated at Rodes during the 9th

annual Derby Divas fundraiser,which was a special night of shopping,fun and friendship. The event raisedover $100,000 to benefit the Norton

Cancer Institute Breast HealthProgram and to support the cost of

mammograms for underservedwomen in our community. See all our

photo galleries at rodes.com.

DERBYDIVAS!

happ

enin

gs

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SJK.COM

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The Runway & Rescue event washeld at the Frazier History Museum

in March as a benefit for theAmerican Saddlebred Museum andSaddlebred Rescue. The event washosted by television personality,

author and Saddlebred owner CarsonKressley and featured the trendiest

and most eyecatching men’s andwomen’s fashions available.

RUNWAY & RESCUE


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Personal Service: The Simple Approach to Banking

Since 1865, Wilson & Muir Bank has proudly contributed to the growth of Kentucky's communities by helping individuals and businesses with all of their financial needs. Throughout Jefferson, Nelson, Grayson and Hardin Counties we offer all

of the deposit, loan and convenience services, including mobile and online banking, that you'll find at larger banks. But there's one key difference: WMB still offers a very simple approach to banking based on delivering genuine personal service. Tell us what you need and we'll find you the best solution. It’s been our commitment for 150 years and counting.

Scan this QR code to visit our new Facebook page.

130 St. Matthews Ave • 502.454.5400 • www.wilsonmuirbank.com

Allen Ilano, Mortgage Loan Officer • Amy Ballard, Mortgage Loan Officer • Mark Hardin, Loan Officer/ Credit AnalystVinet Herovic, Mortgage Loan Officer • Frank B. Wilson, President and CEO • Andy Parker, SVP Commercial Lending

Sam Winkler, SVP Commercial Lending • Lawrence Fox, VP and Branch Manager • Mary Barker, Loan Officer/ Credit Administration Brian Bates, SVP Mortgage Lending

WMB's St. Matthews officers identified left to right:


EAT, DRINK& BE CHIC

Rodes hosted a benefit for theLexington Cancer Foundation at

The Livery in downtown Lexingtonlast November. What a great place

to have a Shopping Party! Theevent was co-sponsored by

Sophisticated Living Magazine,Kimbrel Birkman Interiors, TheApiary and Jefferson’s Reserve

bourbon.


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ROCK STAR

DESIGNED BY

WWW.ORLANDAOLSEN.COM

Rock Crystal Dome with Pave’ Diamond Star Inlaid


B E H I N D E V E R Y G O O D P A R T YI S A G R E A T H O S T . . .

LouisvilleStoneware.com

S T O N E W A R Eest . 1815

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ARMANI COLLEZIONI


ESCADA


CANALI


SCOTT BARBER


ST. JOHN


BASLER

MAURIZIO BALDASSARI

BASLER


PETER MILLAR


AGAVE


LAFAYETTE 148NEW YORK


DORIANI


OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY-DATE II IN PLATINUM

rolex oyster perpetual and day-date are ® trademarks.


Quality is Always Fashionable

Because we putyou in the centerof our attention!


SAMUELSOHN

THEIA


SHOSHANNA

LEO & SAGE


ALEXIS BITTAR


ETON


SAMUELSOHN


JOIE

SAVE THE DUCK


HAMMITT


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LAMARQUE

BROCHU WALKER


VINCE.


36

FALL 2015FASHION TIPS

FOR HIMJIMask

Q: What’s the correct length for a modern man’spants? My girlfriend is complaining that I’m

wearing my pants too short (I recently had my tailorshorten them all) but I often see models in magazineswith socks showing. Who’s right?Like most things in life, it’s not black and white: Europeandesigners are showing pants shorter than Americandesigners and fashion experts continue to debate length.

Our opinion: because pant styles today are slimmerthan they were a few seasons back, pant legs worn toolong tend to “accordion” from ankle to calf, a truly unat-tractive look. The most flattering length has the bottom ofthe pant leg just caressing the top of the shoe, with nocreases down the pant leg and no breaks at the bottom. Ifyour socks or skin are visible, the pants are too short.

Q: I have a perfectly good winter coat from lastyear; will it work this season?

It probably will. Since menswear designers believe ininvestment dressing, they’re usually careful not to changestyles dramatically from one season to the next. That said,one coat no longer fits all occasions or all lifestyles, so youmight want to consider alternating among several differ-ent styles with different functions.

Options include a wool or cashmere topcoat for dress-ing up, a three-quarter-length wool coat for business, aleather jacket for looking cool and a quilted down parka(or vest ) for activewear and maximum warmth. Many oftoday’s fabrics are also specially treated to be waterproofand heat-retentive: come in and we’ll show you a greatassortment. (And check out our outerwear fashion shootin this issue!)

Q: What’s up with the flowers I’m seeing guys wearon their suit lapels?

Lapel flowers, lapel pins, tie bars, cuff links, wrist jewelry,pocket squares, scarves, bags, interesting belts—men’saccessories are increasingly important and allow you tomake a personal statement about who you are. If thisseems a bit out of your comfort zone, try wearing just oneaccessory and see what it does for you.

A beaded or silver bracelet that barely shows fromunder your shirt cuff is a good starting point, as is a pock-et square that adds a touch of class to your suit or sport-coat, or a cashmere scarf that adds a luxe touch to any-thing you wear.

If nothing else, you need a great leather bag this fall toreplace that beat-up briefcase (and to save your pocketsfrom getting over-stuffed).

Remember too that accessories make great gifts sinceyou don’t need to deal with sizes. Pocket squares for allthe guys in the office? Interesting umbrellas? The perfectbusiness card case? Happy shopping!

Today versusyesterday

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Q:It seems like Ihave every style

of pants, from skinnyjeans to wide-legtrousers, in mywardrobe. How do Iknow what top and shoeto pair with each style? You need to create balance inthe overall silhouette of youroutfit, rather than too much ofeverything in the same outfit.We suggest pairing skinny jeansor leggings with a blouse orsweater that has volume andlength to cover your bottom.Tops with a high-low hem areparticularly flattering and ontrend. Finish with either a highheel or a heeled bootie, then addlong chains and stacks of ban-

gles to complete the look. There’s a bit more flexibility when it comes to straight-leg

pants and jeans. Throw on an embellished cropped sweatshirt(with or without a long layering piece underneath) and sleeksneakers for a daytime casual look. Or try a tucked-in button-down and mid-heel mule to add definition at the waist andlengthen your legs.

For traditional dress pants or menswear-inspired trousers,you definitely want a closer-fitting top. A layered look workswell, so try a twinset or a blouse under a blazer. Flats here aretoo predictable, so try a medium or high heel. (During your fit-ting to have your pants hemmed, be sure that you’re wearingthe heel height you plan to wear with the pants in the future.)Make sure the hem is almost touching the ground after yourshoe is on: not long enough that you’d step on it, but longenough that just the tip of your shoe peeks out when you walk.

Step out in style with our expanded shoe collection! To com-plement our selection from Stuart Weitzman and Tory Burch,we have added footwear from Loeffler Randall, Vince, Joie andLucchese Boots.

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Q:My black winter coat feelsold and heavy. What is the

outerwear game for fall2015/2016? Our designer collections are offering thebest outerwear pieces we’ve seen in manyseasons. One of my favorites is an easy-fitrobe-style coat, with tie-waist and oversizedshawl collar. Whether it’s worn over jeanswith a great scarf or a date-night dress, itadds a simple sophistication to anything.There is also the resurgence of princess andshorter-length coats, fitted and elegant, inivory or even patterned.

On the puffer side, coats come in everyincarnation, from vest to full-length, ele-gantly trimmed in mink or in a playful ani-mal print. Plus, its light weight makes thepuffer great for driving the kids aroundtown or curling up on a plane. Check outSave the Duck’s moisture-repelling perform-ance fabrics with a little bit of shine.

Q:I’ve noticed some growth in your denimdepartment. Why now?

Denim is a statement piece in your closet. It’s also vital to have sev-eral styles in your closet. Our goal is to offer everything you need tobe casu l chic. We’re now stocking the latest styles from Agave,Hudson, L’Agence, Paige and more, from skinny to straight and darkto light, colors and prints or distressed. We hope you’ll shop with usto find your perfect pair.

YOURQUESTIONS ANSWERED

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ISAIA

IRIS SETLAKWE


LINDA RICHARDS

CINZIA ROCCA


CANALI

LA PETITE ROBE


FUZZI CANALI


QUINN

HUDSON JEANS

HUDSON JEANS

MAGASCHONI

ETON

ETON


LOEFFLER RANDALL


ETRO


ROBERT TALBOTT

Thank you to photographers Andrew Kung and Allie Filley, makeup by Meagan Townsend and hair by Nick Carter, Joseph’s Salon & Spa. Also, we would like to thank Nanz & Kraft Florist, Francis Lee Jasper Oriental Rugs, The Louisville Ballet and Louisville Stoneware.


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Robert Curran bringsGOOD FORMTO THE LOUISVILLE BALLET

BY SUSAN VOGT

50

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We were invited to afundraiser at myfriend Viki’s home toraise awareness ofthe Louisville BalletEducation and

Outreach program, which goes into the publicschools to teach students the value of danceand movement. I listened to various boardmembers and directors with curiosity, but itwas the short dance program I saw that nightthat left the strongest impression. A smalltroupe of dancers from Louisville Ballet’s highschool outreach program came to perform,and I was so moved by watching these 15young ballerinas in action. In their faces, I sawso many emotions: joy from those who knewthey have found a passion for dance; happi-ness from those who just loved being on theirtoes; and fear from those who were drivingthemselves just to make it through the per-formance. But in all of them I saw discipline,

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commitment and pride for per-forming for us that evening.

After the performance, I mademy way over to meet the compa-ny’s recently appointed artisticdirector, Robert Curran, in orderto congratulate him on a job welldone – and to ask him if I coulduse his ballerinas in my upcom-ing photo shoot for this maga-zine! He not only graciously gaveme access to the Louisville Balletstudio for a day—along with fourballerinas and their ballet master, HaraldUwe Kern – but he also offered me theopportunity to have a conversation withhim.

As one might imagine,Robert is quite passion-ate about being the compa-ny’s new artistic director, noting thatLouisville is in a Renaissance period, withneighborhoods being revitalized, a resur-

gence of great dining and music venues, and a re-awakeningof public interest in dance. Aftertraining at the Australian School ofBallet, Robert spent 16 years as adancer, director and choreographerwith The Australian Ballet, where heachieved the rank of Principal, andhas danced all around the world.

In his new role, Robert is commit-ted to the idea of education throughexperience. “I can still remember thefirst moment when I saw dancersperform and decided that is what Iwant to do when I grow up! Howexciting that was!” he exclaimed.While he personally teaches dancersat the elite level, his role as artisticdirector is to inspire dancers at alllevels. He stressed that dance particularly shows young women andmen how to find strategies in creative problem solving in all areasof life, and that dance allows them to find confidence and appreciatewho they are – and who they can become.

Robert emphasized that one’s body type does not dictate the abilityto perform. Moreover, one of the goals of the outreach program is thatthe young dancers’ ability to participate is also not dictated by afinancial decision. Indeed, one goal of the program is to create oppor-tunities for all of Louisville’s young people, regardless of any barriers.

Of course, as Robert wisely pointed out, at some early point in adancer’s life, a decision has to be made whether ballet will be a voca-tion or recreation. A professional dancer must exude a true confi-dence on stage (a quality which should not be confused with being a

mere extrovert), as well as possess an inti-mate knowledge of their bodies, which canfacilitate breathtaking strength and free-dom on the stage. That said, Robert isthrilled how recreational dance hasemerged as an option in the younger fit-ness-oriented generation. Beyond tradition-ally offered classes such as Jazz, he likesseeing the discipline of exercise classes onthe ballet barre such as Barre Fitness.

When the day of the photo shoot arrived,I couldn’t havebeen moreexcited.Robert’s profes-sional dancerswere four verysweet girls whoyou couldseemingly findat any grocerystore or walkpast whileshopping.

While they were having their hair andmake-up done, they were giddy, tellingtales from the event from the nightbefore. When they were ready, HaraldUwe Kern entered the studio to chore-ograph these young women, and Iwatched as these girls transformedinto true ballerinas.

Here, we feature these remarkabledancers modeling a selection of ourFall 2015 clothing. My many thanks toall who inspired me!

The Art ofFashion

Bendy On the Barre in Koral activewear

Hudson Denim On Pointe

Caped In Attitudeby Sophia

Cashmere andCapped by Christine

Moore Hats Swooning over Sweaters by Joie & Cullen

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Once in a while, a men’s collection comes along that isimmediately “must-have.” The 25 year old family-ownedMaurizio Baldassari collection is deeply rooted in tradi-tional Italian tailoring and very much inspired by Brera,the Milanese art district the luxury label calls home. Itencapsulates a youthful vein in fashion, by offering clas-sics with a twist for the current gentleman as well as thenext generation.

Capturing the unfussy yet refined style of the city’scharming locals, Baldassari’s timeless essentials can beeffortlessly worn for both work and weekends. Thebrand’s key attributes—craftsmanship and quality—areapparent in their exquisitely constructed jackets, shirt-ings and accessories.

Cut from sumptuously rich fabrics like cashmere, silkand suede, Maurizio Baldassari’s collection epitomizesItalian elegance. Try it and be transformed!

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MAURIZIO BALDASSARI: QUINTESSENTIAL ITALIANELEGANCE

MARC AUREL: SUBTLE GLAMOUR

new&

note

worh

ty

Founded in Germany in 1972, the Marc Aurel collectionsells in 16 countries. Designed for confident women whounderstand and appreciate international style, the collec-tion is all about clean lines, attention to detail, perfect fitand quality workmanship.

“We’re inspired by the women for whom we design ourcollections,” says the designer. “These women aresophisticated: they dress to express their unique person-alities. This is why every fabric, every stitch and everydetail in our garments reflects a passion for individualcreativity.”

For fall 2015, the collection features modern layeredBoho-inspired looks in cool neutrals splashed with softpastels. Key items include vests worn over jackets,accents of animal prints and ethnic embellishments.Silhouettes remain slim, with flowy chiffon touches thattake these looks from day into evening. With style!

MAURIZIO BALDASSARI MARC AUREL

MAURIZIO BALDASSARI MARC AUREL

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MIRIAM HASKELL


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As the day melts into evening, your clothes should make thetransition with you, simply and stylishly! And with all of ourbusy schedules, it’s nice to treat ourselves to a fun night outwithout a major wardrobe change.

Carly leaves for the day in a beautiful Escada blush pinkcar coat, with a cowl neck knit underpinning, and a great pairof distressed leather leggings. Her accessories are straightfor-ward and unfussy: kitten heeled leopard shoes from EmmyMack, rose gold choker and dangle ears from Alexis Bittar.Nick Carter from Joseph’s Hair Salon styled her day lookwith long loose curls, soft blush and lips.

Moving into evening, we created a sexy but uncomplicatedsilhouette. First we removed the jacket, shoes and jewelry, andNick got right to work creating a sleek updo. “For this look, I

simply swept her hair up in a loose bun using a few bobbypins. (You could also try an easy ‘French-twist,’ with a coupleof decorative chop sticks or hair pins.) Create a little dramaby dusting on some bronzer to the cheeks, adding a freshlayer of mascara, and darkening the lips just a tad. You’ll be inlow-lit spaces at night; by enhancing these three areas, yourfeatures will pop,” says Nick.

We complemented the pink knit and leather leggings witha soft grey bolero from Jocelyn Furs, upgraded the kittenheels for a pair of high-heeled kicks from Emmy Mack, andblinged out by changing to rose gold crystal earrings, addinglong chains and bangles for the wrist. Splash on your favoritefragrance and in about 15 minutes, you’re good to go. Andsimply gorgeous!

BY SUSAN VOGT

DAYNIGHT

into

trend

ing

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In 1954, the Fuzzi family opened a modest knitwear factory in Cattolica,Italy. But it wasn’t until the founders’ daughter, Anna Maria Fuzzi, joinedthe business in 1971 that the company’s interest in fabric innovation trulybegan. She believed that women should be able to express themselves withthe freedom and ease of a ballet dancer, and so she began to experiment.The result is the brand’s one-of-a-kind stretch tulle fabric, which is func-tional as well as beautiful. It can be hand-washed (and never needs drycleaning), can be packed and unpacked without wrinkling, and miraculous-ly stretches and conforms to flatter all body types. Moreover, Fuzzi’s tulletops, dresses and skirts can even be hemmed at home with scissors with-out ever fraying.

This innovative fabric drew the attention of several major design houses,and in 1983, the Fuzzi factory began producing ready-to-wear collectionsfor Jean Paul Gaultier. The legendary designer’s avant-garde aesthetic andFuzzi’s unmatched technical know-how made for a perfect partnership,which endured until his brand shuttered last year. However, the designer’sinfluence can still be found in the Fuzzi label’s embrace of color and pat-tern, along with its fearless use of embellishments and mixed prints.

Anna Maria continues to operate as the company’s president fromFuzzi’s factory in Cattolica, while North American operations have comeunder the creative direction of Marianne Hicks. Recent collections havestepped up the fashion factor with the aim of attracting a more diverse

female audience. (Fuzzi’s factory alsoproduces some of the best jerseysand merino knits in Italy.) “We’reconstantly thinking from a woman’spoint of view. Our fabrics conformand camouflage in all the rightplaces,” says Hicks.

The fall 2015 collection is feminineyet highly wearable, dominated bydark, moody prints and tastefulembellishments including lace andfringe. Inspired by the idea of “illu-sion,” Hicks played with zippers thatopen and close to reveal underlyingpattern, as well as fused garmentsthat look like separates but are actu-ally one piece, taking the guessworkout of fall layering.

Jacquards and animal prints givemerino outerwear pieces the illusionof winter-like texture, but are made inseasonless weights that work forsouthern climates.

“We try to inject added value intoeach piece, so every collectionincludes five or six convertible items:long skirts with fold-down waists that

double as maxi dresses, pants that convert to jumpsuits, or ponchos thatcan also be worn as scarves,” says Hicks. “We’re not a basics company.Fuzzi is designed for women who aren’t afraid to stand out.”

prof

ile

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ABOVETHE FRAY

REVOLUTIONARY STRETCH TULLE FABRIC SETS FUZZI APART

IN THE FASHION WORLD. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

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UPGRADE YOUR STYLE WITH THESE F RESH TAKES ON THE TUXEDO.(OR GO CUSTOM TO MAKE IT YOUR OWN...)

formal&FABULOUS!

PHOTOGRAPHED BYEVAN TAYLOR GUNVILLE

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Update your look with blue ornavy, a slimmer fit, a shawl

or peak lapel collar, or your ownspecial customized details.


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TUXEDO TUNE-UP

fash

ion

YOUR ONCE-STYLISH FORMAL SUIT IS DUE FOR AN UPDATE.

Extends beyondnatural shoulder,creating a stiff,boxy look.

Jacket is toowide, addingvisual bulk.

Cummerbund isoutdated.

Pant rise is much toolong. (Saggy crotch isnever a good look!)

Sleeves are toolong and wide.

Shirt is baggyand billowy.

Pants are too big,causing bunchingand adding bulk.

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IMA

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Jacket followsnatural slope ofshoulder.

Black is alwaysacceptable, butwhy not trysomething newin blue?

Sleeves are slightlyshorter to expose abit of shirt cuff.

Pants that fit closer tothe leg take off pounds(and years)!

Hem just grazestop of shoe.

Shirt is sleek and fitsclose to the body.

Peak lapels are still agreat choice, but newer

styles are slightlynarrower and higher

on the shoulder.

No cummerbundis more modern.

Bottom of jackethits at mid-hip.

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WOODSout of the

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJECSTYLING BY WENDY MCNETT

HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY


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THE MAN MAKES THE COATAND THE COAT MAKES THE MAN


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ON

SINATRA STYLEHe coined the phrase “Saloon Songs”—those poignant tunes of unrequited love, sadness,and heartbreak that, according to contemporary crooner Michael Feinstein, are meant tobe experienced “with a cigarette in one hand and a drink in the other…”

In celebration of the centennial of Frank Sinatra’s birth, it seems the entire country isfocusing on not just the music of America’s favorite cultural icon, but also his influence onfashion. The fedora worn at an angle, the soft shoulder suit with a slightly shorter lengthjacket and trouser, the loosely knotted tie all still look as fresh and appealing as they did afew decades back.

A recent exhibit at the New York Public Library for Performing Arts at Lincoln Center,“Sinatra: An American Icon,” confirms our theory: Sinatra’s style is as timeless as his ever-soulful songs. —Karen Alberg Grossman

KNOT A PROBLEMWhile few dads in recent years have shown excessiveenthusiasm for the prototypical Christmas gift—thedreaded necktie—today’s fashionable fathers appreci-ate the value and versatility of this timeless accessory.They know natty neckwear can be worn to the office,to a weekend party, or to a casual dinner out. Clearlynarrower than in years past, ties now use fabrics rang-ing from smooth silks to textured wovens in every-thing from vividly-hued solids to subtle patterns. Forextra oomph, try a tie bar, which can add the perfectfinishing touch to any outfit. Just make sure it extendsno further than the width of your tie and that it holdsthe front and back of your tie to your shirt placket.

A new tie is the perfect gift for a new generation,and a great way to stand out from the crowd!

—Jillian LaRochelle

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BROADWAY’S BESTDRESSED MENMen looking for sartorialguidance need look no further thanBroadway’s current leading men.

Celebrities who know how to dress-to-impress showedtheir sartorial style on opening nights and the awardscircuit last spring. Tony Award winner Alex Sharp livedup to his last name in natty tailored suits and sportcoats,often in whites and off-whites, which play well off hisslim frame. Tall, dark and handsome dancer RobertFairchild was not just quick on his feet, but alwaysimpeccably groomed from head-to-toe. Meanwhile,2014 Tony winner James Monroe Iglehart (left) was atrue friend to fashion, proving that larger men can lookspectacular in checks, stripes, and patterns. And fanfavorites such as Brian d’Arcy James (far left), AndrewRannells, Tony Yazbeck, David Burtka, Max von Essen,Matthew Morrison and Andy Karl were among the lat-est crop of stars who redefined dashing while showingoff their impeccable taste in both classic (and not-so-classic) formalwear. Bravo, gentlemen!—Brian Scott Lipton

In recent years, top-name designers of fashion,accessories, and fragrance have begun usingmore A-list celebrities to convince us to purchasetheir worthy wares. John Varvatos featured thefaces of rock n’ roll gods Kiss and Ringo Starr intwo recent ad campaigns; soccer superstar DavidBeckham, New York Rangers goalie HenrikLundqvist, and teen idol Justin Bieber have baredalmost all in underwear ads; and Chanel evenconvinced Hollywood hunk Brad Pitt to pitch theirperfume to both men and women.

Now, famed watch brand Omega has askedbrand ambassador George Clooney for somemodeling time, filming the silver-haired stud on amotorcycle to promote the company’sSpeedmaster ‘57.

Of course, it might be hard to focus on thewatch while your eyes are fixed on the face ofTinseltown’s most handsome leading man.—Brian Scott Lipton

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GIVING SEASONdesigners

SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER, EtonWhat’s the best gift you’ve ever received?

My girlfriend gave me an antique silver ring from Nepal covered with red

coral and turquoise.

What’s on your holiday wish list this year?

Good health for my family. I never really wish for any special gifts; I prefer

to go away on holiday with the people that are close to me. I would like to

visit the Falkland Islands this year.

What item from your collection would you

suggest as the perfect gift?

I would really recommend one of our fantastic prints to add some flair to the

modern gentleman's wardrobe.

GIANLUCA ISAIA, IsaiaWhat’s the best gift you’ve ever received?

The gift of passion for the Neapolitan tailoring tradition I received from my

father before I could walk…since I still had a pacifier in mouth!


Finding the strength to switch my cellphone off for at least one week…

What item from your collection would you suggest as the perfect gift?

For the man who needs to stay warm it’s our down Babbà jacket in green

Aquacashmere. I never take it off when I am visiting New York City in the

winter. It gets freezing! (Which also means I cannot wear my Isaia leather flip

flops with suits when walking on Madison Avenue during the cold season…)

ARNOLD SILVERSTONE, SamuelsohnWhat’s the best gift you’ve ever received?

A sense of passion and integrity that I received from my parents; it defines

who I am today and what I bring to everything that I do including design-

ing and my work.


Quality time spent with friends and family during the holidays. Given my

busy schedule and constant travel, that would be the ultimate present.

What item from your collection would you suggest as the perfect gift?

Our new travel top coat in pure cashmere (Loro Piana Storm System) is

water and wrinkle resistant. It will keep you warm, dry and stylish; it’s the

perfect travel companion.

OUT FAVORITE MEN OF STYLE SHARE THEIR HOLIDAY GIFT PICKS. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

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When there is any sort of disturbance in an Italian city, or merelyan unexpected curve in the road, the locals are fond of callingsuch incidents "a manifestation.” So one might say there is a“manifestation” happening in menswear this fall and especiallynext spring. Top Italian clothing brands such as BrunelloCucinelli, Isaia, Kiton, Belvest, and Brioni are taking such famil-iar warm weather ideas as bright color, nautical styling and evenluxury leisurewear and adding their own unexpected twists.

Judging by the "Living Color" theme at the latest round ofItalian menswear shows, color will be at the forefront for the nextseveral months, including on skinny, short-cropped trousers,richly-hued belts, and shirts with collars large enough to land ajetliner. Moreover, Pantone shades of apple green, chamomile

yellow or rose will be found as subtle accents on shirts, color-blocked pullovers, or casual slacks, all designed to be worn withneutral-hued jackets, knitwear and vests in a way most Americanmen will easily embrace.

Likewise, boldly-striped knitwear, boat-style (and even band-ed) collared shirts, quilted vests, and lightweight outerwearmade of technical fabrics allow one to live the lifestyle of a sea-man without ever having to leave the docks. And such everydaystaples as the familiar hooded sweatshirt, drawstring trouser orpull-on short are often rendered in opulent fabrics like cashmere,silk and micro-wool blends. They’re so extremely luxurious thatit’s hard to imagine wearing them for any sport, unless itinvolves a remote control.

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How did you first get intorace car driving?My parents were enthusiasticracing fans and would drag meto various motorsports events.When we didn’t go to an eventwe’d watch it on television; it waspart of growing up in Europe.Because so few roads in Europehad speed limits, I was neverintimidated by speed. I alwaysseemed to live close to a race cir-cuit and I loved waking up to thedistant sound of race engines. I’ddrive out to the circuit to seewhat was going on and wouldalways meet really cool people.One day I was looking to buy a

trailer to transport my car, but when I found the ideal trailer, it hap-pened to have a Formula Continental race car on it. The owner told mehe’d sell me the trailer but I’d have to take the car with it.

So how did race car driving prepare you to run such a prestigious apparel company?There are numerous aspects of racing that can be directly applied tobusiness. Anything that tunes your mind, your body or your spirit willhelp you focus and prepare, whether it’s for racing, designing, market-ing or selling a clothing collection. Racing keeps you sharp by makingyou aware of your competition, thereby helping you adapt quickly to

unexpected situations. Flexibility, focus, drive: all are attributes of suc-cess. Another is persistence. It’s easy to get discouraged in motor rac-ing; things go wrong mechanically, or you make a mistake and crash,or somebody else makes a mistake and runs you off the track. It‘s easyto say “I’ve had enough.” There are many parallels in life: if you breakit all down and understand the emotions that motivate you, then youcan persevere in other situations. It’s a constant learning experiencethat makes you a better business manager.

Anybody who’s been around racing knows it’s the support teamthat’s most critical to success. The car must be mechanically soundso the driver feels safe in it; the communication from driver to crewmust be perfectly clear in order to optimize the effort. If you trustthe race car and have figured out all the variables, the car will doexactly what you ask it to do. But if you ask it to do 1/10th more, theconsequences are pretty severe.

Similarly, anybody in management knows that the leader is only asgood as the least experienced person in the company. The employeeshave trust in you and you have trust in them; you try to lead from thefront. If you inspire them and clearly communicate how their roles fitinto the overall vision of the company, if you provide them with anavenue for both personal and professional growth, then you’re likely toachieve your goals.

When people attend a race, they often want to go to the pits tosee how things work; afterwards, they realize that it’s one thing tosit in the stands and feel the excitement, but the real drama hap-pens with the preparation of the car. Every team member must dotheir job perfectly before the driver climbs into the cockpit. Andit’s the same in business: every person must perform exceptionallyin order for the company to win.

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HOW RACE CAR DRIVING PREPARED ROBERT TALBOTT CEO BOB CORLISSFOR BUSINESS AND FOR LIFE. BY DAVID A. ROSE

WHAT DRIVES HIM?

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Any man who has ever had a proper haircutor shave after visiting a barber invariablyleaves the shop a little savvier than before.Barbers not only cut hair and maintainbeards, they also impart wisdom to thosemen smart enough to listen. We spoke to afew style gurus from around the countryabout what’s happening in their shops andabout how to best update your look.

GO NATURAL. One consistent tip weheard from all the barbers we interviewedwas to loosen up on the styling. RobMcMillen of the original Blind Barber loca-tion in Manhattan’s East Village says, “Inpast seasons we have seen a shorter, moretechnical look; guys are now experimentingby keeping things a little loose and decon-structed.” Joe Caccavella Jr. of Joe’sBarbershop in Chicago agrees: “Looser andmore natural cuts are the majority of what wesee here in Chicago’s Logan Square neigh-borhood.” It seems men are now striving for aperfect balance between refined and relaxed.

BUY A BLOW-DRYER. “The benefits ofblow-drying are underappreciated by mentoday,” says West Hollywood master barberChristopher James of Baxter Finley. “Menwith thinning hair can make their hair appearthicker, you can create volume that laststhroughout the day, and you can controlproblem areas like cowlicks and whorls.”Nothing sets a style like a blast of heat beforeadding product.

DON’T BE AFRAID OF PRODUCT.If your dad’s styling regimen began and

ended with a comb, you might not knowwhere to start in the world of waxes, pomadesand creams. Ask your barber for a recom-mendation. He can guide you to the one thatwill help you achieve the right look for yourcut. Monty Howard of Knoxville’s Frank’sBarbershop says, “You never know what yourhair is capable of until you try. Styling yourhair without adding the right finishing prod-uct would be like mowing the lawn withoutdoing the trim or raking away the cut grass.”

CONTROL YOUR BEARD. It seems as ifevery other guy you see walking down thestreet these days is sporting some kind offacial hair, and the jury is still out on this sud-den surge. “Guys are enjoying testing outhow long they can grow their beards now,and as long as the look works for you, I saygo for it,” says Richie Pearce of the Brooklynoutpost of Fellow Barber. Still, should youkeep that beard for fall? Go ahead; just makesure to maintain it. As Mike Charland ofD.C.’s Barber of Hell’s Bottom points out:“Just because one has a beard doesn't meanit needs to be as long as the guys’ from ZZTop. Whatever the length, keep it clean andmanicured.”

THE TAKEAWAY. Loosen up your stylingfor a fresher feel. Rock that beard, but have itshaped up every few weeks and keep it cleanand smelling fresh.

Don't be ashamed to grab a blow-dryer andsome products to help create a hairstyle thatexpresses your individuality.

And lastly, trust your barber's professionalopinion-—and tip him well!

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AMERICA’S MASTERSTYLISTS ON THISSEASON’S TRENDS.

BY STEPHEN GARNER

BARBERSHOPWISDOM

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Consider this: There’s probably just one person in the universe whotruly wants you to look fabulous all the time. Yes, he also wants to sellyou stuff, but he knows that if you don’t look and feel terrific in yourpurchase, you’re less likely to come back to the store or give referrals.This person, if inspired, can make your life easier and more fulfilling.Hard to believe? Then you haven’t maximized your relationship withyour primary sales associate. Here, a few tips to get you started.

• First and foremost: If you don’t have a preferred sales associate, findone. It’s as simple as walking around theselling floor and approaching an associatewhose style you admire, someone you canrelate to and feel comfortable with. (Theother option is to ask the store owner andlet him make the match.)

• Make an in-store appointment with thisperson. Your time is valuable and there’s noneed to start from scratch each time youneed something. Then let him know howyou prefer to communicate—phone, email,text, etc.—and how often.

• Over-communicate with your sales asso-ciate at the beginning, providing as muchinformation as possible about your life, job,fashion preferences, favorite brands, com-fort level for experimentation and favoriteitems (around which to build a future wardrobe).

• If you’re comfortable with it, indulge in a closet consultationwhere your sales associate comes to your home and goes throughyour wardrobe. The goal is to give away clothing that no longerworks (your college sweatshirt and Landlubber jeans, those DB suitswith huge padded shoulders) and to fill in with a few new items toultimately update your image. You’ll be amazed at how liberating itfeels to clear the clutter!

• Be open to trying new things. We all get stuck in fashion ruts andhave trouble envisioning ourselves in a new look. But trust us: a smallchange can make all the difference! Even a minor adjustment (a differ-ent collar spread, a new color tie or sweater, slimmer-fit trousers, coolshoes) can greatly modernize your appearance.

• Don’t forget to share your wedding anniversary and spouse’s birth-day: your sales associate can make you a hero at least twice a year!

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WE CAN’T HELP YOU WITH LOVE OR MARRIAGE, BUT WE CANCERTAINLY IMPROVE AN EQUALLYESSENTIAL RELATIONSHIP: THEONE BETWEEN YOU AND YOURCLOTHING SALESPERSON!BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

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3938 Dutchmans Lane | p: (502) 897 5369 | josephssalon.com | /josephssalon

unbridled style

Head to Toe Happiness

COPPÉLIA Oct. 2-3, 2015

Choreography by Val Caniparoli

Dec. 12-20, 2015


During the most recent recession, the concept of “investment grade"single-malt whiskey became a viable financial alternative to plummet-ing art and stock valuations. Between 2008 and 2014, the top 100 singlemalts delivered an average return of 440 percent. While bourbon hasnot yet reached the meteoric levels of a Hanyu Ichiro Malt ($11,000 atauction) or a Macallan M ($650,000 at auction), the resurgence andmassive expansion of America’s official whiskey over the past decademeans one should at least consider the investment potential.

"Some of these bottles are really going for a lot of money," says JimRutledge, master distiller for Four Roses bourbon. The company pro-duces two annual limited-edition releases: a Single Barrel highlightingone of 10 secret "recipes" the company blends into its main bourbons,and a Small Batch incorporating varying combinations of its recipes(usually two to four of them) aged nine to 13 years. "I've heard that,sometimes the day after release of the Small Batch, people are seeing itselling on the internet for up to five times the original price."

In the 21st century, Four Roses has emerged a bourbon lover'sbourbon, although it is still reasonably priced (the Small Batchretails for around $150).

In contrast, Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve 23-year—the mostpopular collectors' bourbon right now—can sell at the liquor storefor ten times that amount. "Pappy" is so popular that it was the vic-

tim of an organized crime syndicate stealing bourbon from the bigdistilleries for almost a decade before they were busted in a stingoperation earlier this year.

Deciding which bourbons have "legs" is something of a mine-field. As with watches and baseball cards, just because somethingsays it's "limited" or "rare" doesn't make it so. The older the bour-bon is (most are released after around four years of barrel aging),such as Eagle Rare 17-Year ($350 to $600), the more it is likely tocost and the harder to find—but not always.

Small "historic" collections from defunct distilleries also attractcollector interest: William Larue Weller ($400 to $1,100) is part ofBuffalo Trace's coveted Antique Collection, while Diageo hasreleased the multi-expression Orphan Barrel series ($250 to $400).

Even so-called "sourced" or NDP brands—aged bourbon pur-chased by a non-distiller and re-bottled—can generate interest ifthere's enough heritage and quality,. For example, there’s Angel'sEnvy Cask Strength Port Wine Barrel Finish ($400 to $500).However, re-selling bourbon isn't as easy as Scotch, thanks to post-Prohibition laws and fewer auction houses handling spirits in the U.S.than in the U.K.

In the end, as with wine, a bourbon collection is probably the most"profitable" when shared among close friends.

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BOURBON GAINS IN COLLECTIBILITY. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSONWHISKEY STOCKS

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“He needs your help,” Daniel’s wife implored.“He’s got nothing to wear.”

As a personal stylist I’d heard this before, butin Daniel’s case something didn’t add up. I’d methim before and he was always impeccablydressed. When I arrived at his apartment for thewardrobe edit, his closet was just as I’dexpected: meticulously organized, fullof custom suits, shirts and polisheddress shoes.

“Where’s the rest?” I inquired,and was directed to a drawer with alonely pair of baggy jeans a fewscraggly T-shirts.

It turned out that this man, likemany guys, was put together at alltimes for his colleagues and busi-ness associates, but was a “weekendslob” when it came time to be withhis beautiful wife and child.

“What do you wear on datenight?” I asked. He shrugged. “I justthrow on jeans with my dress shirtfrom the office.”

“And on Saturday if you go out forbrunch?” He pulled out a wrinkled, fadedT-shirt and old college sweatshirt.“Shoes?” I asked. He pointed to the sneak-ers he wears to the gym.

Ironically, it was his colleagues, friends andstrangers on the subway who had the pleasure ofexperiencing Dapper Daniel. His wife—the personwho vowed to look at him day in and day out for therest of her life—was the one who got the sloppy left-overs, and she was clearly disappointed that hewasn’t making an effort.

The problem was simple; when it came to buy-ing casual clothes, Daniel didn’t know where to

start. He would walk into a large department store, feel over-whelmed by what can be a poorly organized selection and

walk back out the door. To start, we shopped for slim-fitting, dark jeans that

were dressy enough for dinner but comfortable enough towear while sitting on the floor to play with his little boy.We also found some great five-pocket twill pants to wear as

a denim alternative. We bought sport shirts so that henever had to be reminded of his days

at the office while out with friendson the weekend, a vest to layer onchilly Saturday mornings when he

walked the dog and picked up coffee,and a so-soft sportcoat that was just as

comfortable as that old college sweatshirt. Some streamlined leather sneakers we picked up

(his wife’s favorite new addition) means Daniel canstop committing the biggest weekend wear faux pas ofall: wearing gym sneakers with his jeans!

One thing I’ve learned while working as a personalstylist is that most guys want to look good, but oftenfeel insecure when it comes to selecting clothes anddressing well. Yet, as soon as they have a few new out-

fits in their closet that fit them well, are on trend for theseason and are easy to put together, they often experience ahuge surge of personal confidence.

If you’re the kind of guy who shies away from shopping,reach out to someone who specializes in this field. You don’t

need to hire a personal stylist: a good sales associatewill know how to fit and flatter you by asking a fewlifestyle questions and looking at your body typeand skin tone.

Before you go shopping, make a list of items thatwill complete your closet. Your sales associate cando this if you opt for a home visit.

Let the pros help cure you of your weekendwardrobe woes. Your wife wil be forever grateful.

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FASHIONFAUX PAS

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