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July 2013 Volume 7 Number 1

It’s a Rat’s World......we’re just living in it

IARW It’s a Rat’s World......we’re just living in it

$5.50

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Well, IARW has been alive for 6 years! To mark the occasion, we’ve developed a fresh new look for the cover, including a new font, and put together a full 20 pages of photos and articles dealing with one of the most important things: rat care. Not to mention that we’ve dedicated this whole issue to our less furry friends, the hairless rats. Animal testing has always been an important subject for me, but it wasn’t until I became a rat owner more than 18 years ago that I finally took a stand and started buying

cruelty-free. I couldn’t handle the idea of so many rats perishing in a lab so that I could have mintier toothpaste or the latest color of lipstick.  The ASPCA estimates that 90% of animals in labs are rats! I feel it’s my duty to use my platform to speak up for these amazing creatures and let you, dear readers, know what you can do to help them. Recently Revlon began to sell their products in China, which indicates a reversal in Revlon’s stand against animal testing. I was able to talk with a PETA representative about Revlon’s move, and how PETA is working to fight Revlon’s increased testing on lab animals (pg 18).

Fighting for the well-being of animals outside of the home is important, but so is caring for the companion animals in our own homes. In this issue (pg 8) we’ve consulted with our vet Dr. Jody Moffett, about basic first aid needs. We hope that you will refer back to this article whenever your rattie kids need a little help. We’ve also included an article (pg 12) about keeping your rats cool during the hottest days of summer. Where you live, staying cool may be as simple as opening a window. But in Tucson when it’s 109° outside and the air conditioner breaks, it’s helpful to have a plan to deal with the heat. In a future issue we’ll give tips on creating an evacuation kit, in case you need to leave the house in a hurry, like we did to escape the sweltering temperatures.

Not forgetting about our furless kids, Natasha had nekkidness on the brain when developing her next recipe for rats (pg 16), along with a very informative article on the specific needs of a hairless rat, starting on page 5. Plus we have two pages of photos dedicated to these rats in all their naked glory. 

Thank you so much to all the readers, writers, advertisers and contributors to IARW that have made the last 6 years possible. We look forward to many more rattie-filled years with you!

We’d like to announce July's Instagram Rat of

the Month winner, Chrissy King,

(@cherrybabomb) and her

handsome rattie man, BMO, from Milwaukee, WI.

Congratulations to you both!

If you’d like to enter our contest, please join us on Instagram. @its_a_rats_world_mag

Instagram Contest

It’s A Rat’s World!Nathan & Brandi Saxton Publishers & Editors

Contributors

Lisa Allen, Tammy Brunette, Sam Bunten, Wendy Bunten, Elizabeth Busbee, Crystal Chappell, Brittany Gunshore, Kimberly Jarrett, Natasha Matherly, Jody Moffett, DVM, Amanda Nordstrom, Brandi Saxton, Holly M. Sherrah, Erin Smith, Beth Treisner, Brook Vaylin, Dan Wedeking, and Jessica Wilkerson

Contributing Editors

Diane Newburg and Holly M. Sherrah

It’s a Rat’s World is published monthly. © 2013 by IARW. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any material from this issue in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Please allow 6 to 8 weeks for new subscriptions to begin.

Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are encouraged, although must be on an exclusive basis. No materials can be acknowledged or returned unless accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope. We cannot accept responsibility for lost or damaged materials.

Send submissions, subscription orders, and change of address to: itsaratsworld@cox.net

Printed with love and care by Zenith Instant Printing in Novato, CA

Cover Photo: “Come On, Give Me a Kiss” By Brandi Saxton

Cover Model: Jing Jang

Hel lo from Nathan & Brandi

June IssueI loved your nail polish colour on the cover. LOL! And, of

course, the adorable rat nose. My bf has a new (expensive…) camera

and is experimenting with depth of focus; leads to interesting pics. Oh, and the Instagram pic was utterly adorable!! I actually have a few “rat egg” pics that I’ve collected over the years and I’ve been meaning to photoshop them into a “rat easter egg basket” one day.  Kricket’s article was nice to read, too. And I just love that pic of his nekkid bum. And the paw print charm – beautiful!! ~Cyzahhe, The Netherlands

Have a comment about something you’ve seen in IARW? Please share it with our readers and contributors, feedback is definitely appreciated! Send email to itsaratworld@cox.net Include your first and last name, and city and state or country.

Letters To The Editor

Rat Chatter

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ANNOUNCEMENTS & FAREWELLS

Long time readers will remember when I first announced getting my four sweet boys Archer, Lurm Nurm, Jing Jang and Wolfgang a full year ago. I had originally intended to only adopt Wolfgang for my son Rory, but then learned about the large hairless group of rats that Any Rat Rescue had just taken in. Dying for another nekkid, I jumped at the chance to adopt some and decided we’d be coming up home with 3 rats total. That was until I laid eyes on the teeny little Archer, who was only six weeks old, and I fell instantly in love. One rat quickly became four rats, proving that I had a really bad case of GGMR, but I couldn’t be happier with my decision! It’s amazing how much my babies have grown over the last year (Archer in particular is huge!) and all the fun we’ve had with them. And this is the first time in more years than I can remember that I was able to get all my rats (seven in total) housed in the same cage! All of these rats, each with their own special personality, manages to love one another (minus a few squabbles now and then) and bring an abundance of happiness to my life on a daily basis. I’m truly blessed to have this group of rattie boys and I wish I had room to write something different about each one of them. Every time I adopt a rat from a shelter, I marvel over the fact that someone gave these amazing creatures up, and that their loss is a major gain for me! Happy first anniversary boys, I love you dearly!! ~Brandi Saxton, Tucson, AZ

Anniversary

Miss Luda Cris aka LudaBean & Letty Mia. Every day was a Yogie with you. You hung on so strong when your sister Letty Mia passed. You silly beautiful girls gnawed everything and you ate everything. More importantly, you girls were my friends and my daughters.   I love and miss you both! ~Sarah Turner, Seymour, CT

ArcherLurm Nurm

Jing Jang

Wolfgang

My girls Ripley & Zoe just celebrated their 1st birthday! Their birthday was June 3rd but we were a little late to celebrate because of family in town and such. They are my heart rats! ~Nikki Quinn, Tucson, AZ

Birthday

RRR Jeremy11-25-2011 to 6-12-2013The Amoeba Brothers (Oliver, Liam, Augie, Jeremy, so named because they move as one entity) are minus one of their own. Jeremy has left us for the Rainbow Bridge. Rainbow colors will shine brighter for his sweetness. Farewell my sweet little rat-man. Fly free. You are dearly loved and sorely missed. ~Karen Grant, Simi Valley, CA

Goodbyes

Ripley

Zoe

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The Travelin’ Rat’s Monthly Status:

The Travelin’ Rat does “freelance fundraising” by going to different events, holding online promotions, and selling merchandise to raise money for animal rescues, especially those that take in rats. TTR started the Rescue of the Month program in February 2011 and has items for sale on their Facebook page and in their Zazzle store to help raise funds for the rescues. TTR is always open to new ideas for raising money for the animals. To learn more about them go to their Facebook page: http://on.fb.me/q20mju or check out their website: http://thetravelinrat.weebly.com.

June’s Rescue of the Month was: Copp's Cavies Rodent Alliance Rodent Rescue in Erie, PA. http://tattoomyheart.com/copp/ and you can find them on Facebook: http://on.fb.me/12POUgo

Amount Raised: $123

During July and August, The Travelin' Rat will be taking a hiatus from the Rescue of the Month program, which will resume in September.

The Travelin' Rat is having a 10% off "Reorganizing Sale” on their Facebook page: http://on.fb.me/q20mju, during the months of July and August. Anything that you buy from their page, or Zazzle store: www.zazzle.com/thetravelinrat* 

during those months, will continue to benefit TRR’s efforts towards becoming a 501(c)(3) rescue.  They are also working on getting their Etsy and Cafe Press stores up and running. TTR also has fundraisers set up for July and August by a Scentsy representative and A Side of Creativity. Please check them out at: http://bit.ly/182WRpQ

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The Travelin’ Rat headed out to Rodentfest for a 5th year in 2013. What a day this was! Attendance at this April show was definitely the most it has ever been. There was both a rat show and a mouse show, in addition to a guest speaker, Dr. Pilny of the Center for Avian and Exotic Medicine in New York City. Dr. Pilny’s talk was about how Myco affects rats and the current treatment used. He emphasized the importance of quarantine. We were happy to see our friends from Philly Rat Rescue and supporters from Mice and Rats Rights (MARR) there. We got to catch

up with old friends and meet many new ones. People came from as far away as Connecticut, M a s s a c h u s e t t s , a n d even Alabama to attend the event! In addition to the items sold, TTR held a raffle for hammock sets that were generously donated from The Rat Attack Team, along with a variety of treats from Fruitables, Max & Ruffy’s, and Zukes. We

had one very happy winner at the end of the day!

Rodentfest By TTR

The Travelin' Rat, set up for Spring Rodentfest 2013 in Leesport, PA

One very happy winner of the Sleep-N-Eat Rattie giftbasket raffle. Prize included treats and hammocks that were donated by The Rat Attack Team.

After the Rat Show is over, kids get to enter their pet rat in an agility contest. This is fun for all to watch!

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When I first decided that I wanted to get a pet rat, I was determined that it had to be a hairless one. As a kid I’d had a hairless hamster that I bought at a pet store. In a time when no internet existed and these hairless wonders were called Alien Hamsters… well, things did not go well. Luckily my first rat ended up not being hairless, because even though I had worked at a pet store, I still had to learn much about the wonderful world of rats. If that first journey had been with a hairless it probably would have ended up much like that Alien Hamster who returned to the mother ship in the sky.

This isn’t to say that regular rats and hairless rats are as different as apples and oranges, because they are not. What I mean is that hairless are not as forgiving as their furred counterparts and it’s best to have the basic care and needs of a pet rat down pat before you take that next step in your journey of rathood and add a hairless to your rat family.

While I may not be the world’s leading expert in hairless rats - there are people who have bred and studied them far longer than I - I have the two most important things needed: a love and a passion for them. Don’t get me wrong, I love a furred rat as much as the next rat lover; but I do play favorites when it comes to hairless. So keeping this in mind I will share with you, young grasshopper, what my years of obsession - I mean love - have taught me about the hairless rat.

If It Looks Like a Hairless, It’s a Hairless. Right?

The first thing I see so many people confused about is just what makes a hairless a hairless. I see the terms Double Rex, Patchwork, and True Hairless thrown around so much that it’s little wonder people are confused. “Hairless” has become a catch-all term for any rat that is lacking almost its entire coat. It’s what a rat is at the genetic level that makes them a “true” hairless or not.

Unless you got your hairless from a breeder, or at least saw its parents,

you probably won’t know if your rat is genetically hairless or not, at least not without a test breeding. Some Double Rexes can be just as naked as any hairless rat after they lose their coat, since not all of them continue to regrow their fur or keep patches of it that lead to a Patchwork look. Some people think that just because a hairless rat has fuzz on its face and feet that it must be a Double Rex. This is not true. Just as you can end up with naked Double Rexes, you can also end up with hairy hairless rats. These are usually considered “bad hairless”, but genetically they are hairless all the same.

Will The Real Hairless Please Stand Up.

There are many genes that make a hairless rat genetically hairless. Rowett Nudes and Fuzzies come to us from labs. Nudes are the ones so often thought of when people picture sickly rats who cannot nurse their offspring. These rats have an abnormal thymus gland, leading to poor immunity, and have a shorter than normal life span because of this. Unless you bought your hairless from a lab, or from a breeder who did, then it’s unlikely that your rat is a Rowett Nude.

Most hairless rats that breeders work with are thought to be the Fuzzy gene or another gene that has popped up that breeds true for hairlessness. Over the years fanciers have worked to improve the health and lifespan of the

hairless varieties that usually prove just as capable of nursing their young as any other rat. The genes for actual hairlessness are recessive so both parents need to be naked or must be carrying a copy of the hairless gene from their parents. Because these genes a re recess ive , they can sometimes be passed along unnoticed until one day they happen to meet the right match and express themselves. If interested in learning more about the genetics of hairless rats and the different genes, check out A Review of Coat

Let's Get

Everything you ever wanted to know -or not- about hairless rats.

By Natasha Matherly

Hairless and Double Rex babies showing off various stages of molt

Photos by Natasha Matherly except where noted.

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Varieties & Genetics in the Domestic Rat By Alan diGangi, which you can download at www.rodentfancy.com

Most hairless rats bred by the rat fancy have little to no fur, though light hairs on the feet and nose are common. Their whiskers are closely curled to their face and some hairless have hardly any whiskers at all. You can tell the difference between a standard rat and a hairless rat at birth just by looking at the whiskers, since a hairless rat’s whiskers are curled from day one.

As young hairless grow, you can tell them from their counterparts not only by the whiskers, but by the coat, as baby hairless rats normally only grow a wispy coat of fur that they will then lose as they get older. Some young hairless will retain fur on their face for several months after they lose the rest of their coat, but will then begin to lose it until they have only a tiny bit of fuzz left on their nose or no fur at all. This differs from Double Rexes who will grow in their first coat, molt it out, and then go pretty naked, grow hair again, and then usually with the next molt decide to go with a thinned hair look, a Patchwork look, or be a hairless “poser.” Keep in mind that Double Rexes are a result of a rat receiving two copies of the dominant Rex gene, but the curly whiskers and hairlessness can be confusing to someone who has not dealt with the offspring of such genetic pairings before. The curly whiskers can also make it hard to tell hairless offspring from Rex or Double Rex offspring in the same litter until their fur starts coming in.

Apples and Oranges

While nekkies are not as different from their furred siblings as the aforementioned fruits, there are some differences. I’m not going to bother stating the most obvious, but will point out instead the other visual difference: size. Hairless rats tend to be smaller in size, even among their littermates. I have had a few males and females that grew to a decent size, but for the most part hairless tend to be smaller.

Nekkies have closely curled whiskers to no whiskers at all. While rats do use their whiskers as a sensory way to get around, having little to no use of their whiskers does not seem to bother them at all. I have had completely blind hairless get around just as well as any fully-functioning furred rats.

Another difference is that hairless rats have a higher than normal metabolism. Due to not having a coat of fur to keep them warm, naked rats burn through their body’s energy supplies faster than your average bear, or in this case, rat. What does this mean to you as a rat owner? Your hairless is going to require a bit more food and a little extra protein from time to time. Try offering them boiled egg and pieces of meat.

Their higher metabolism also means that you need to stay on top of your feeding schedule. I have seen hairless rats

start looking a lot worse for wear after going just 24 hours without food, while a furred rat seems to fare a lot better.

Hairless rats also seem to dehydrate a lot more quickly and drink a larger amount of water. Maybe it’s because with all that fur out of the way it’s easier to see their skin go tight, flakey and generally unhealthy as dehydration sets in. I find it best to use the largest water bottle possible or use two bottles in their cage. Still from time to time you may find your nekkie needing a hydration boost, whether it be from illness, weather or a chewed bottle. There are a few things I have tried that seem to help with this. The first is mixing a small amount of Gatorade or Pedialyte in with their water. Normally I would not

recommend Gatorade for rats due to the sugar content, but if your naked rat is in bad shape, the sugar boost can be helpful. For a nekkie that seems only a little dehydrated, try the Pedialyte or some Smart Water. However I have found that most rats don’t really like Pedialyte, and some would rather go thirsty than have to taste it. I can’t say that I blame them. Another route is to buy a package of DuMOR Blue Ribbon Electrolytes Supplement and mix a small amount into their water bottles. This seems to go over well and doesn’t over flavor the water or add sugars to it. This product is also great for when your rats are ill or stressed.

Rubber Ducky You’re The One

Nudists can sometimes require a bit more help with grooming than other rats. Just like us they can get dry skin from things like having the heat on in the house. Or sometimes it’s a simple case of buck grease. These are easy enough problems to take care of. A quick bath and a rub down can go a long way. Be sure to avoid shampoos and soaps that are harsh or heavily perfumed. Baby shampoos, oatmeal shampoos, kitten shampoos, or mild biodegradable dish detergents are good choices, or you can make your own. I’ll go over soap making for your rats in a future issue.

After bathing your rat, follow up with an oil massage. Baby oil, olive oil, or coconut oil is great for the skin. Olive and coconut oils are all natural and are very safe to use. If your rats do lick off any of these oils left on their skin, it gives them added health benefits. Only use baby oil if you have nothing else, and be sure to rub it in well so that there is no excess oil left on the skin, then supervise your rats afterwards.

An Apple A Day

While most of the hairless in the rat fancy are not as sickly as the Rowett Nude, they are not without their health issues. With little to no fur to protect them, they are more prone to cuts and scratches. These can become infected

Rose shows how eye infections can affect the eyes. In one eye the sight is gone, in the

other she still has a bit of infection.

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and form abscesses. Keeping toenails trimmed can help with this, but sometimes abscesses will happen anyway. Abscesses that burst should be fully cleaned and treated. Oral antibiotics help the healing process. An abscess that doesn’t burst on its own may need to be lanced by your vet. As always, when unsure see your vet.

Nekkies are also more prone to eye infections. Hair and whiskers are not the only things that they can lack. Many are also missing the eyelashes that help keep dirt and debris out of their eyes. This can lead to infection, scratched corneas, and more. Medicated drops and ointments often clear these problems up, but sometimes eyesight is lost or even the eye itself; possibly both eyes. I had a trio of sibling rats that had eye deterioration. This was the result of bad breeding and is something that breeders should steer away from.

With their higher metabolism, hairless rats can sometimes have shorter life spans than regular rats. They’re a bit like stars; burning bright, and then burning out. Breeding for longer life spans, a more robust rat, and overall better health is something that serious breeders of the hairless rat are striving for. This has given us the healthier nudist that we have today, compared to several years ago.

A Rat’s Home Is Its Castle

Your hairless rat, like all your rats, needs to be kept out of drafts. After all, no one likes a breeze up their bare bum. Well, most people don’t anyway. So be sure to put their cage in a draft-free location. Though their lack of fur makes one think otherwise, hairless get no colder than any other rat in a properly temperature controlled environment. While an aquarium may seem warmer, it will lead to the same respiratory problems as it does in regular rats.

Despite all claims aspen shavings will not cut your hairless, but they can be uncomfortable to sleep on. Having a fleece-lined place for them to lie in or on, such as a hammock or a shelf liner, will not only offer comfort, but warmth as well. Still, aspen can be dusty and there's a chance that it can get in your nekkie's eye. The actual

shavings could possibly end up poking your little nudist in the eye, too.

When it comes to paper beddings it’s best to use them with caution. I, and other hairless rat owners that I have spoken with, have had problems with products such as Carefresh actually getting into the eye, which leads to infections and possible loss of sight. This can and has happened with paper beddings as well. When it comes to our little nudists, I strongly recommend skipping this type of bedding altogether. Not only does it cause many problems, but it doesn't smell the best when dirty either.

Some hairless owners skip store bought beddings altogether and line their cages

completely in fleece for an extra cozy house. This is great for those baring it all as there is no risk to their eyes and it provides them with a bit of extra warmth should they need it. As well as lining the cage, give your nekkie some fleece scraps to take into their igloos or a blankie to curl up in. They love curling up in blankets. I've had my little nudists escape from time to time and I almost always find them curled up in a blanket or a shirt that I’ve left on the floor. You can get cheap baby blankets at the dollar store or your local Goodwill.

The most important thing for your little naked buddy in their house is a roommate! Whether it be another nudist or a furred rat, a cuddle friend is the best thing that you can give your hairless rat to keep them warm and comfortable. There is nothing like a toasty warm nekkie who has just come off the bottom of a rat pile.

A Cut Above the Rest

Hairless rats are by far the best rats there are. Okay, maybe I’m a bit biased when it comes to these great rats, but they are full of personality and most are extremely outgoing. While some people are put off by their lack of fur, hairless rats feel much like a human baby; all soft and smooth. They don’t feel icky at all, though they can sometimes feel a bit sticky and sweaty after lying at the bottom of a very naked rat pile.

If you don’t own a hairless rat already, consider adding one, or two, or three, or… you get the idea, to your colony. There ain’t no colony like a nudist colony! Become the proud parent of a nudist today!

Natasha Matherly is an unhinged rat lover who lives in the wilds of Indiana with her many rats including Kali and Maisey and their army of crazy, eccentric minions. She has an unhealthy love for hairless rats, and has been owned by them and their furred counter parts for over two years. She spends her days playing with her rats and designing clothes for Mischief Boutique. When not being a slave to the rats she enjoys reading and being a geek.

Bean who is a hairless rat, had a fuzzy face and eye patches when she was a baby. As an adult

she’s almost completely bald.

Jing Jang and Lurm Nurm have their cage lined in fleece and towels. Photo by Brandi Saxton

References•http://ratbehavior.org/•A Review of Coat Varieties & Genetics in the Domestic Rat By Alan diGangi

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By Jody Moffett, DVM

Having animals as part of the family can make our lives more fun and satisfying, but can also make them more unpredictable. Being prepared for potential problems can take some of the stress out of the illnesses and injuries that can occur. This list of information and supplies should help you be ready for most medical emergencies. 

What to have on-hand:

Current Weights 

Make sure that you always have current weights for your rats. You can get this information from your vet, or you may wish to obtain a digital kitchen scale to weigh them at home. Weights in grams are the most useful. To convert your rat's weight to grams, take his weight in pounds and divide it by 0.0022; or take his

weight in ounces and divide it by 0.0352.  

Important Phone Numbers

Having important phone numbers on-hand is a great w a y t o b e prepared. The first number that you'll want i s fo r an emergency vet clinic that treats e x o t i c s a n d i s

open 24/7. Ask your regular veterinarian or check online for this information. Next, obtain the number for your local Poison Control Center. While this is usually for human poisoning concerns, they can often assist with animal-related questions too. They can usually tell you if a substance is toxic, what signs to watch for, and how to treat. If they are unable to help, you can call the ASPCA Poison Hotline, which is

an animal-specific source of information; but be aware that they may charge you a $65 fee for their services. Contact them at 888-426-4435, or online at www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control.

Wounds

A.For lacerations longer than two inches, or if substantial tissue is protruding from the wound, please consult a veterinarian.

B. For less severe injuries, clean the wound with a mild antibacterial hand soap and rinse well, then pack an antibiotic ointment such as Neosporin into the wound. If possible, dress the wound to keep it protected from contamination. To do this, place a non-stick bandage pad over the area and then cover it with a wrap such as vet wrap. If you have to use some sort of tape, you may need to apply rubbing alcohol to remove the adhesive from your rat’s fur later - be sure to rinse it off afterwards. Bandages should be changed once daily until the wound starts to scab over.

INFORMATION:

ALIMENTS:

Hairless rats like Lurm Nurm get scratched by their cagemates easily.

Continued on page 10

Some kitchen scales give grams as a weight option.

All photos by Brandi Saxton except where noted.

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A general list of items to keep on hand

For an even more comprehensive list of items, visit the Rat Guide: http://bit.ly/12bIN40

Supplies:

• Phone numbers for Poison Control and an Emergency Vet Clinic

• Syringes; for administering medications and for syringe-feeding

• Digital scale; for accurately weighing rats• Sterile saline and antibacterial hand soap; for flushing &

cleaning wounds• Hydrogen peroxide• Non-stick bandage pad or gauze• Vet wrap• Cotton Balls and Q-Tips; for cleaning wounds and ears• Flashlight• Tweezers • Fingernail clippers • Pet nail clippers• Small scissors• Pill cutter, pill crusher • Nebulizer • Humidifier • Heating pad• Small carrier and spare water bottle; for quick evacuation in

case of fire or other emergency

Medications: 

• Styptic powder/gel or silver nitrate sticks; to stop bleeding• Children’s Motrin• Children’s Benadryl• Children’s Imodium AD • Bene-Bac gel or probiotic powder/capsules• Cortisone cream; to relieve itching• Oatmeal Shampoo• Activated charcoal capsules; in case of

accidental ingestion of toxic substances• Amoxicillin• Baytril• Doxycycline• Revolution• Ivermectin• Metacam• Antibiotic ointment

Nutritional Support:

• Nutri-Cal or Nutri-Stat• Ensure • Soy infant formula • Jarred baby food• Smart Water, Gatorade (watered down), or

Pedialyte; to restore electrolyte balance

Doctor Wolfgang

First Aid supplies

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C.Torn toenails - if any of the nail is still attached, it needs to be cut off to prevent further injury. Stop bleeding with styptic powder or gel, which you can find in any pet store. You can also use flour, baking soda, or corn starch in a pinch. While it may seem like the bleeding will never stop, don't panic; this is not a life-threatening injury. Apply pressure. Don’t try to clean the foot until you are certain that the bleeding has stopped. Hydrogen peroxide or saline eyewash is good at dissolving blood.

Limping/Pain Control

A. If there is any evidence of a broken bone (limb is in an abnormal position, there is substantial swelling and bruising) please seek a veterinarian.

B. Healing sprains, strains, and minor injuries involves rest and an anti-inflammatory. Limit your rat’s activity by confining them to a smaller area with easy access to food and water. Remove anything that they can climb on and potentially fall off of. Ibuprofen, like any NSAID (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug), can lead to kidney, liver, or intestinal disease. Administer this medication with caution and be sure to discontinue use and contact your vet if your rat stops eating or becomes lethargic. To calculate the dosage for Children’s Motrin (ibuprofen 100mg/5ml or per tsp), multiply your rat's weight in grams by 0.001ml. This can be given up to once every 4 hours. For Infant Motrin (ibuprofen 50mg/1.25ml) multiply your rat's weight by 0.0005 ml. One ml/cc syringes can be purchased from your veterinarian for use in dispensing medications.

  Itchy Skin

A. Itchy skin can be a symptom of parasites such as mites, so if there is no improvement after trying the treatments below, see your vet. Your rat may need

to be treated with Revolution or Ivermectin. Keep in mind however, that hairless rats don’t get these specific parasites.

B. Oatmeal shampoos have a natural anti-itching effect. Cortisone creams can be used sparingly on small areas. Children’s Benadryl (diphenhydramine 12.5mg/5ml) can be administered twice daily. To calculate the dose, take your rat's weight in grams and multiply it by 0.001ml.

C.Itchy or dirty ears can be cleaned with a solution of 1 part white vinegar to 2 parts water. Wet a cotton ball in this solution, squeeze some of it into the ear canal, and massage the base of the ear. Use a dry cotton ball to wipe it out afterwards. If your rat has a head tilt or is showing signs of poor coordination associated with their ear problems... Yes, you guessed it; please see your vet.

Diarrhea

A.For rats that are still eating and active, you can try mixing plain yogurt with live cultures into their food. Bene-Bac gel can also be very helpful for animals with diarrhea or that may have come from a situation where they suffered malnutrition. If probiotics do not help, diarrhea can be treated with Children’s Imodium AD   (loperamide 1mg/7.5ml). The dose is your rat's weight in grams x 0.00075ml every 8 hours for 3 days, then once daily for 2 days. Mix the dose in 1ml of water, or give 1ml of water by mouth after each dose. If your rat's diarrhea gets worse or doesn't improve after a few days, seek veterinary advice.  

B. The biggest danger of diarrhea is that it can lead to dehydration, so encourage fluid intake by offering juice diluted with water or Pedialyte. Your rat's minimum daily fluid requirement is his weight in grams x 0.06ml.

Archer broke his foot and the bone developed calcification.

Timothy broke his toe after a fall. Photo by Holly M. Sherrah

Wolfgang’s scabs were a result of mites. The scabs cleared up after being treated with Revolution.

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Respiratory Distress

Normal respiratory rates in the rat can be as high as 80 breaths per minute.  Clicking or wheezing sounds during breathing, or increased abdominal effort with breathing, can be signs of respiratory  distress  The following home treatments may help alleviate this distress but if your rat starts open mouth breathing or if their gums are not pink they need oxygen and emergency treatment.

A.Warm humid air can help to open airways and loosen mucous in the lungs. Close your rat in a bathroom with a warm air humidifier, a nebulizer or  a hot shower running for 30 minutes. You can do this up to every 4 hours if it helps, just be sure that your rat isn't getting overheated.

B. Semi sweet chocolate chips - the active ingredient in chocolate can act as a bronchodilator and help rats with respiratory infections breathe a little easier.  But do not give more than 4 chips per rat per day, as higher doses can be toxic.

Accidental Ingestion of Toxins

If your rat has eaten something toxic, sometimes the effects can be counteracted with activated charcoal. You can purchase this product in capsule form at human pharmacies and health food stores. Activated charcoal will bind the toxic substance and keep it in the rat's intestinal tract so that it can be pooped out rather than being absorbed into their system. DO NOT give activated charcoal if the rat is sedated (risk of choking or aspiration) or if there is any chance of a blockage in the rat's digestive tract. The dosage is 1-5 grams/kg or 1 to 5 capsules for every 250 grams of body weight. You can either give it mixed with water via oral syringe, or stir it into something the rat likes such as vanilla ice cream, yogurt, or Ensure. Encourage the patient to consume plenty of fluids, as activated charcoal can cause dehydration. For ingestion of any medications that are labeled as long acting or sustained release, you should give a dose of 1-2 grams/kg every 4-6 hours for 24 hours.  

Not all toxins will bind to activated charcoal and some will be absorbed before this can be administered. Therefore in the event that your rat has consumed a potentially toxic substance, you should contact your vet or a poison control center immediately for advice.

Loss of Appetite

There is a long list of conditions that can cause a rat to stop eating. Problems “inside the tube” include those within the digestive tract; from overgrown teeth to stomach ulcers to constipation. Problems “outside the

tube” include issues with other systems such as pneumonia, end stage kidney disease, or heart disease. If the cause is not apparent or if your rat does not improve within 1-2 days of supplemental feeding, please call your vet.

Tooth trimming - overgrown teeth will often cause a rat to stop eating because of the pain. Trimming his incisors can fracture the teeth exposing the root and leading to infection and increased pain. Unless absolutely necessary, do not trim your rat’s teeth without first talking to your vet. If you do need to trim your rat’s teeth yourself, cut only small sections at a time.

The key to supplemental feeding is to give small, frequent servings and soft or liquid foods such as Nutri-Cal, Ensure, soy infant formula, or jarred baby food. Your rat's minimum daily calorie requirement is his weight in grams x 0.06 kcal.

While this list is far from complete, hopefully it will give you a starting point and get you thinking about how to keep your rat healthy and safe. 

Korben needed to be hand fed several times a day while suffering

from a pituitary tumor.

Dr. Jody Moffett is our personal vet, and works her miracles at Sierra Animal Hospital in Sierra Vista, AZ. She has been in practice for 11 years and her own menagerie consists of rats, cats, dogs, horses, a pig, a goat, a donkey and desert tortoises.

$14.50 A Topper Tale A true story of

Topper, a hairless rat. Written and

illustrated by Holly Gold and Topper the Rat, A Topper Tale teaches readers never to judge someone by the way they look. Whether you have fur or not, you can make a great friend.

A Tale of a Hairless Rat

For inquiries & purchases, contact:

Holly7Gold@cox.net

Includes personalized inscription, and autograph.

www.itsaratsworld.com 12

A few days ago the air conditioner in our house abruptly stopped working. The fan was still blowing but only hot air was coming out. Of course this had to happen right in the middle of a heat advisory for the Western and Southwestern states. While it’s not been record-breaking heat for Tucson, AZ, we have still been advised to stay indoors if it at all possible since it’s been getting close to 110 degrees. That’s all well and good if the inside of your house is actually cool enough to live in.

We tried calling the A/C repairman but during a time like this, they are in high demand and it didn’t look like anyone was coming to rescue us until the next day. I tried keeping the rats as cool as I could, but when the house finally reached 87 degrees inside by 4pm and I knew it would still be over 100 degrees outside well into the night, I came to the conclusion that it was time to pack the animals up and get them to a cooler place. Thank God for good friends who are willing to take you, your family, and your seven rats in at the last minute! Unfortunately this meant keeping all the ratties in a tiny one level cage for the unforeseeable future, but it beat watching one of them perish from dehydration and a heat stroke.

A rat’s environmental temperature should be between 65°-79°F. My rats start acting noticeably different when it reaches around 83°. Not all states get as hot as Arizona but the one thing most Arizonans have is an air conditioning unit or a swamp cooler - a device that cools the interior by blowing air through water-soaked pads. It’s the only way we survive the worst parts of the summer. But what if you’re like me and your A/C fails you or you don’t have one at all? Besides trying to keep ourselves cooled off, it’s utterly important to make sure our rats stay cool and hydrated as well.

First, try to use as few lights as possible in the house. You’d be surprised how much heat your lamps give off. Also close all your curtains and blinds to keep extra heat from coming in through the windows. Next, move the cage to the coolest room in the house. Rooms with fans and/or tile are the best. Lastly keep an eye on the temperature to make sure it’s not getting hotter. If your thermostat doesn’t have a built in thermometer, make sure you get one to keep in the house or near the rats’ cage.

Water, Water, Water!

Keep your rats hydrated! Encourage them to drink lots of water. I even put ice in the bottles to keep the water cold when we’re facing too much heat.

Lots of humans like to swim during the summer, but you can’t exactly throw your ratties into the pool. You can however, let them go Pea Fishing! Fill up a heavy dish with water and float frozen peas (or grapes or any other type of fruit or frozen vegetable that they enjoy) in it. Place the pan in an area that your rats can safely play in and let them go diving for a tasty treat.

Not all rats enjoy a good game of pea fishing however, and five out of my seven rats assumed I was trying to kill them when I offered them this option. So you might need to place your rat in the water instead, just long enough for their bodies (minus their heads) to get soaked. You can also take wet washcloths and wipe their bodies down. They won’t be happy with you but it’s important to keep them cool.

I also find that laying out wet towels on every level of the cage (while still leaving a dry area for the rats to lie on) to be helpful.

If your rats don’t want to lie on a wet towel they may enjoy lying against something really cold. I filled Ziploc bags with ice and then wrapped thin hand towels around them - so as not to harm their skin with freezer burn - and placed them in different parts of the cage. I then picked up the rats and placed them on top so they could feel how cold it was. At first they weren’t too sure about it but the next thing I knew, three rats were stretched out together on the icy mounds.

Another way to offer cold spots to lay on or near is to fill stainless steel bottles/thermoses or glass jars with ice and place them in the cage. The tops might get chewed on a bit, but this will keep water from leaking all over.

By Brandi Saxton

Leeloo attempts to grab a frozen pea without actually getting wet. Photo by Brandi Saxton

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Frozen fruits or vegetables, or foods with lots of water such as  watermelon and grapes, are a great way of keeping the rats hydrated while they think that they are getting treats..

Reading the Signs

When rats are getting hot they will flatten their bodies and lay in a stretched out position. It’s important to start doing whatever you can to keep them comfortable at this point. If the temperature continues to climb however, you need to start packing up your rats’ things and get them moved to a cooler place as soon as possible. If you start to see signs of distress such as slobbering or salivating, lethargy, weakness, depression, or convulsions get your rats to a vet immediately!

If you haven’t already been doing my water suggestions at this point and they need to get to the vet, first get their feet, ears, and tail wet gradually to start bringing their body temperature down so they have time to make it to the clinic. You don’t want to cool them down too fast or it can cause other problems. Also have them lay on a wet towel during the car ride to the vet. Hopefully you won’t ever have to deal with a scare like a broken air conditioner during a heat wave, but if you do, be prepared! Know exactly how you’re going to handle the situation to keep you and your rats safe. Talk to friends and family ahead of time to see who’d be willing to let you and your furry babies crash at their house until your own house is safe again. Make sure you’re well stocked on ice and frozen veggies, and above all, don’t leave your rats behind! If it’s too hot for you in the house, it’s definitely too hot for them and they need you to keep them safe and healthy.

Have a safe summer!

By Dan Wedeking

ReferencesDoctors Foster and Smith: http://bit.ly/11bMxJ9Rat Guide: http://bit.ly/1cJYUMcRat Fan Club: http://www.ratfanclub.org/cool.html

www.itsaratsworld.com 14

Wilbur ~Sam Bunten, Marshfield, MA

Hobbes ~Lisa Allen, Bowie, MDPixel, Zen & Gibraltar

~Elizabeth Busbee & Brook Vaylin, Cheshire, CT

Wilbur ~Wendy Bunten, Marshfield, MA

Bambi & Beatrice ~ Crystal Chappell, Charlotte, NC

By Jessica Wilkerson

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Milo ~Beth Treisner, Kennett Square, PA

RDPY Sam Winchester ~Holly M. Sherrah, Chatham, Ontario, Canada

Ralphy ~Brittany Gunshore, Harding, PA

Lyra ~Erin Smith, CanadaLuke ~Tammy Brunette, Nekoosa, WI

Helen ~Kimberly Jarrett, Lubbock, TX

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We all know at least one girl who can eat and eat whatever she wants and never gain a pound. If you don't, then maybe you are that girl and I hate you. Not really. Okay really. Well, maybe just a little. Hairless rats are a bit like those girls. Their high metabolisms allow them to eat just about anything, but hold on before letting them down that entire pint of ice cream all by themselves! While their bodies may burn off those extra calories quickly, the focus of their diets should be healthy food, not junk food.

Because nekkies’ high metabolisms cause them to burn through calories quicker than a normal rat, they tend to need a bit more food than their furry counterparts. A bit of extra protein can be helpful when it comes to this. If all of your rats are hairless, try feeding them a rat block or dog food with a bit higher protein percentage than you would normally use. Be sure to keep a close eye on their skin condition, though. Excessive dryness, itchiness, or blotchiness can all be signs that they are receiving too much protein. If this happens, cut back on the protein, as excessive amounts can cause kidney damage. 

If your little nudist lives with other rats, or for an extra treat, try offering them a bit of food that will give them a boost in the protein department. You can give these treats alone as a snack, or with other foods such as pasta and vegetables to make a more complete meal. 

In the

KitchenERats

Eggs- These are a great treat that can be fixed many ways so that they never get boring.

Meat- A given. Chicken and turkey are especially high in protein and loved by rats.

Tofu- If you’re not comfortable giving your rat meat, try some high quality tofu. Never feed bulk tofu.

Fish- Another great protein source. Tuna, salmon, and so on are all good choices. Other seafood such as oysters are great as well.

Cheese- A protein choice that should be given in small amounts, but is much loved. 

Beans- Kidney beans, black beans, soy beans, Lima beans, etc are great for protein, but never fed them raw.

Yogurt- A rat favorite! 

Nuts- Peanuts, almonds, walnuts, and so on are high in protein and are also fatty, so they are helpful when trying to maintain or put weight on a hairless rat.

Seeds- Seeds such as sunflower and pumpkin seeds can also be a source of extra protein. 

Avocados- Though fattening, they are a rat favorite and good for when your nekkie needs a boost.

Berries- High in antioxidants and vitamins, berries are a great addition to mix with foods like yogurt for an added treat. 

Flax Seeds- Try flax seed oil as a replacement for olive oil on foods every now and then. It's filled with omega 3 fatty acids and antioxidants.

Starchy Vegetables- Such as potatoes and corn. These can help add weight. Be sure to cook the potatoes. 

Milk and Juices- Great for added calories. Juices can be high in sugar however, so they should be used sparingly.

Suggested Foods For a Fatter Hairless

Feeding Your Little Nudist

By Natasha Matherly

Gracie proves that hairless can eat anything and still be fit.

All

phot

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atas

ha M

athe

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Feeding Your Little Nudist

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Hairless rats are a bit more forgiving when it comes to sugars. Because they don't put on weight as quickly, an extra Yogie or two is not going to be harmful to them. However do keep in mind that just like us, snacks and meals high in sugar are best as the exception rather than the rule.  Nutrition shakes such as Ensure are another nice thing to keep on-hand to offer your hairless rats. You can give them just a little every now and then for an extra boost. Ensure is especially great for when you have a sick rattie. When my Gracie got very ill, the only thing that I could get her to eat was strawberry Ensure. It provided her the nutrition that she needed while helping to keep some weight on her. Ensure is also a good product to hide medications in that your baby needs to take.  When it comes to their naked hides, having olive oil in the house is great. You can rub it into their skin and also put it on their meals. Most rats will even lick up the oil when it's offered to them alone or on a bit of bread. Extra virgin olive oil is better than regular olive oil. Extra virgin oil, from the first pressing of the olives, contains higher levels of antioxidants (particularly vitamin E and phenols) because it is less processed. Sprigs of herbs can be added to your olive oil bottle and allowed to sit in order to infuse additional flavor and add benefits to it. Be sure to store your olive oil in a cool, dark place and keep it tightly sealed so that it doesn't go

bad. Never display your olive oil on a window sill, no matter how pretty it may look.  The most important thing to keep in mind when feeding your nudist colony is to make sure that they always have something to eat. Because they burn off calories so fast, they can starve to death a lot quicker than other types of rats.  Just a day without food and hairless ratties can start to look a little sunken in. Too much is better than not enough. Kali was the only hairless rat I've ever had that was a real chubber. Gracie had what I called her 'Yogie belly' but for the most part, even when being fed sugary Yogies as treats, my hairless have always managed to maintain a fit weight. They looked filled out, but not overweight.  So keep that bowl full and don't be afraid to slip your nudist an extra treat or two. After all, a well fed nudist is a happy nudist.

Sawyer enjoys his meals a bit too much.

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Q. Can you briefly describe PETA’s relationship or history with Revlon leading up to this point?

A. PETA persuaded Revlon to ban all tests on animals in 1989. Revlon was the third major cosmetics company, following Avon and Benetton, to bow to consumer pressure and stop poisoning animals. For more than two decades, Revlon was a member of PETA's Beauty Without Bunnies (formerly Caring Consumer) program and refused to allow animals to be poisoned, burned, and blinded in tests of its products.  In 2012, PETA found out that Revlon has been selling its products in China, where tests on animals are required for cosmetics. When we questioned the company about this, Revlon repeatedly refused to answer our questions about whether it has been secretly paying for tests on animals.  Since the company refused to answer our questions, we urged our more than 3 million members and supporters to contact Revlon to ask the company to “come clean” about whether it has been secretly paying for tests on animals in China. But even after receiving thousands of emails and calls from compassionate consumers, Revlon still refused to speak on this issue. We moved the company to PETA’s list of companies that do test on animals.  In September 2012, PETA bought stock in the company because as shareholders, we can demand transparency about animal testing activity and also work in yet another way to get the tests stopped. (You can read more about this development here: http://bit.ly/PZj65n).  In March 2013, we posted this blog to warn consumers that many companies’ “cruelty-free” claims are not what they seem to be, and Revlon received top billing.  On June 6, 2013, a PETA spokesperson attended the Revlon’s 2013 annual shareholder meeting (press release here: http://bit.ly/

19z64GT) to ask the company to commit to pulling out of China to save the lives of countless animals who are killed in cruel product tests for cosmetics (blog available here: http://bit.ly/13qS9wL).

Q. Why are you focusing on Revlon versus the other formerly cruelty-free companies that took their products to China? Mary Kay, Avon, and Estée Lauder went over to China around the same time.

A. When PETA discovered Mary Kay, Avon, and Estée Lauder were selling their products and secretly paying for tests on animals in China (blog available here: http://bit.ly/zRwfu8), we set to work immediately and focused our campaign efforts on those companies.  While we are still working diligently to urge those and other companies to end tests on animals and pull out of China, we have expanded that campaign to include Revlon. We also began an effort to help the Chinese government accept the available non-animal methods by funding scientists at the Institute for In Vitro Sciences (IIVS), a global leader in the advancement of alternatives and known for its brilliant work in helping corporations switch from animal to non-animal testing. We have been able to help with the set up of four laboratories where scientists there are being trained in the use of non-animal test methods. The Chinese government will soon officially accept the first non-animal test for cosmetics ingredients, and now has a five-year plan to accept all non-animal chemical tests approved by the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD). We have a comprehensive blog posted about the incredible progress that the PETA-funded scientists have made with the Chinese

with Amanda Nordstrom,

On June 6, 2013, a PETA spokesperson attended Revlon’s 2013 Shareholder Meeting in Edison, New Jersey to ask the formerly cruelty-free beauty giant to come clean about paying for tests on animals in China and to commit to withdrawing from the Chinese market, where cruel tests on animals are required for cosmetics.  PETA’s Statement from Kathy Guillermo, PETA Senior Vice President of Laboratory Investigations: After years of dancing around the issue, Revlon CEO Alan Ennis finally told the whole truth: Revlon does sell in countries that require tests on animals, and the company complies with those regulations. Despite years of portraying itself as a cruelty-free company, Revlon now essentially admits its commitment to profits outweighs its commitment to consumers who want products that come without a death toll. The company has admitted that it will continue to do business in countries where animals are blinded, burned, and killed in tests that are illegal in Europe and Israel and have been abandoned in much of the rest of the world. PETA recommends that consumers visit PETA.org for a list of more than 1,300 companies that refuse to conduct or support tests on animals in any way.

Research Associate with PETA’s Laboratory Investigations Department

www.itsaratsworld.com 19

government, which you can find here: http://bit.ly/RIKRhI.

Q. Was Revlon aware that PETA was a stockholder and would be attending the meeting?

A. Yes, we bought stock in Revlon last year, and pre-registered for the annual meeting, so Revlon was aware that we are stockholders and would be attending the meeting.

Q. What was the reaction in the room after PETA read its statement?

A. The room fell silent as Revlon CEO Alan T. Ennis responded by reading a prepared statement regarding the company’s animal testing policies and sales in countries where tests on animals are required by law for cosmetics. This was the first direct response from Revlon we have received on this issue.

Q. Now that you’ve gotten an answer from Revlon, will you keep your stock? And if so, what will you do with the dividends or earnings?

A. PETA plans to introduce a shareholder's resolution next year, after we have held the stock for a year.  For

more information about PETA’s innovative shareholder resolution campaign, please visit: http://bit.ly/9Ny624 and http://bit.ly/bLqJ9p.

Q. Will you be starting a campaign specifically targeted against Revlon the way you have with KFC or McDonald's? If so, how can people find out more about that?

A. We will continue to let consumers know about Revlon and all the companies that sell products in China.  We urge compassionate consumers to refuse to buy Revlon products until the company pulls out of China like Paul Mitchell, Nature’s Gate, and other companies have. Please visit our "Beauty Without Bunnies" page to find a list of companies that don't test on animals and to order a free copy of our first-ever global Cruelty-Free Shopping Guide to take with your every time you shop.

Q. Is there anything you’d like to add that I may have left out?

A. Please visit www.peta.org to learn more about the ways you can help stand up for animals!

www.facebook.com/martinscages

Facebook! We’re now on

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