20111213_p.madhuri reddy et al ijapn

A REVIEW ON IMPORTANCE OF HERBAL DRUGS IN COSMETICS

P.Madhuri Reddy, M.Gobinath, K.Mallikarjuna Rao, P.Venugopalaiah, N.Reena,

Ratnam Institute of Pharmacy, Pidathapolur, Muthukur, Nellore – 524 346.

.Received on 20-04 -2011 Revised on 19-06-2011 Accepted on : 29 – 06 – 2011

ABSTRACTHerbal extracts are primarily added to the cosmetic preparations due to several associated properties such as antioxidant property, topical anti-inflammatory property, anti-dermatitis, facial creams, antiacne … like presence of so many important application. The main objective of the present review, revealed the cosmetics importance in the world, at the same time importance of herbal drugs in cosmetics. Some herbal drugs chemical constituents give the good elegance to the formulation ultimately will have the good therapeutic value. Key Words: Herbal drugs, Cosmetics, Herbal extracts, Hair care products, Skin care products,

INTRODUCTIONMedicinal Plants, their preparations and secondary metabolite constituents have been used since the earliest history of humanity in modern ‘western’ medicine and in certain systems of traditional medicine and have formed one of the foundations for healthcare in cultures throughout the world.

For thousands of years, humans have used herbs. Herbs are generally defined as non-woody plants, which die after blooming. This definition has been expanded to any of the plants of which part or whole can be used in medicinal treatments, culinary preparations, nutritional supplementation, or used as a coloring or cosmetic agent. When herbs are taken, the body starts to get cleansed, it gets purifying itself. Unlike chemically synthesized, highly concentrated drugs that may produce many side effects, herbs can effectively realign the body's defenses.

For Author Correspondence*

P.Madhuri Reddy,

Ratnam Institute of Pharmacy,

Pidathapolur, Muthukur, Nellore – 524346.

Mail I.D: [email protected]

Mobile No: 09000598835.

Herbs do not produce instant cures, but rather offer a way to put the body in proper tune with nature. Herbs play a significant role, especially in modem times. The growing interest in herbs is a part of the movement towards change in life-styles. This movement is based on the belief that the plants have a vast potential for their use as a curative medicine.

Herbal extracts as the name suggests, is the extract of herbs. Herbal extracts are an ancient methodology as its references have been discovered in holy Vedas and in unani scriptures. Herbal extracts have unending health benefits so, it is expected that they will soon revive the era of healthy mind and body. With the realization that chemical medicines are not always "magic bullets" and may carry serious side effects[1]. Today, in this whole world there is turn to return towards the herbalism and use of herbal products and to adopt more natural way of life[2].

Herbal extracts are primarily added to the cosmetic preparations due to several associated properties such as antioxidant properties[3]. These antioxidant botanicals are generally classified into three categories depending upon the nature of their constituents as carotenoids, flavonoids and polyphenols. Flavonoids, impart the UV protection and metal chelating properties. The polyphenols is a large class and contains various molecules like rosemarinic acid(rosemary)[3][4]. Apart from these, the herbal extracts have also been used for the topical anti-inflammatory properties. These agents block the inflammatory changes that result during cutaneous ageing and thus may be helpful in reversing the signs of ageing[5]

Review Article ISSN: 2231 – 3966

P.Madhuri Reddy * et al. / International Journal of Advances in Pharmacy and Nanotechnology

IJAPNAvailable Online through

www.ijapnonline.org

IJAPN / July – Sept. 2011/ Vol. 1 / Issue. 3 / 121 - 139 121

Although the term herbal extract inherently purports to have beneficial and benign properties, these extracts may have adverse reactions in individuals. For example, they can be a possible source of allergenicity in patients presenting with contact dermatitis[6]. We therefore, suggest that regulatory authorities should attend the issue of ensuring quality and safety of herbal cosmetic products immediately before embarking on more arduous task of ensuring efficacy [7].

COSMETICSThe first archaeological evidence of cosmetics usage was found in Egypt around 3500 BC during the Ancient Egypt times with some of royalty owning make-up, The Ancient Greeks and Romans also used cosmetics. The word cosmetics derive from the Greek [8]. The beauty of skin and hair basically depends on individual’s health, diet, habits, job routine, climatic conditions and maintenance[2]. During the 20th century, the popularity of cosmetics has increased rapidly. Many manufacturers distinguish between decorative cosmetics and care cosmetics[8]. The main objective of the cosmetic application is decorative to enhance the general appearance of face and other body parts to minimize skin defects to a considerable extent. It is applied to maintain the status of skin and hair. The other main objectives of cosmetic application are psychological, social and clinical[9].

It is not simple to define the term “cosmetic” as its scope and application to the care of different body parts is very wide. so (i) The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) which regulates cosmetics in the United States defines cosmetics as: "intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions." This broad definition includes, any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product. The FDA specifically excludes soap from this category[8]. (ii) Drugs and Cosmetics Act 1940 and Rules 1945 defined cosmetics as “Articles which are meant to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on or introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance”[9][10], and by the European directive 93/35/EEC(European Commission), the cosmetic products are defined as “any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleansing them, perfuming them, changing their appearance

and/or correcting body odors and/or protecting them or keeping them in good conditions”[11].

The history of the herbal cosmetics industry includes very dark chapters in European and Western countries from about six centuries back[1]. During the past decades, there has been a dramatic increase in the use of natural products in cosmetics. A wide range of active principle of various plants and animals including vitamins, hormones, phytohormones, bioflavonoids, enzymes, tannic acid, fruit acids, amino acids, sugars, glycosides, essential oils and dye stuffs are being considered useful in herbal cosmetic formulations[12]. The use of phytochemicals from a variety of botanicals has dual function, (i) they serve as cosmetics for the care of body and its parts and (ii) the botanical ingredients present influence biological functions of skin and provide nutrients necessary for the healthy skin or hair[2].

Herbal Cosmetics, here in after referred as Products, are formulated, using various permissible cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which one or more herbal ingredients are used to provide defined cosmetic benefits only, shall be called as “Herbal Cosmetics”[13]. The usage of herbal cosmetics has been interested to many folds in cosmetic and personal care industry and it has been growing at an average rate of about 15% for the last few years. All this happened due to the excessive use of synthetic based products, synthetic chemicals, chemical dyes and their derived products in the last one and half century; their production and usage cause human health hazard with several side-effects leading to numerous diseases. It also caused considerable environmental pollution and disturbed ecosystem [2]. Many cosmetic companies are coming out with "All natural" and organic products. Products who claim they are organic are not, unless they are certified "USDA Organic"[8].

The physical states of cosmetics preparation are broadly divided into following three categories:Solids: face powders, talcum powders, face packs, masks, compact powders, cake make-up, eye make ups, bath salts etc.Semi solids: creams, ointments, hair colors, hair gels, butters, liniments, wax base creams, pastes, etc.Liquids: lotions, moisturizers, hair oil, conditioners, shampoos, bath oils, hand sanitizer, cleansing milk, mouthwashes, perfumes, nail polish, deodorants, liniments, sprays, etc.[2]

Table enlists various herbal crude drugs with their parts used for cosmetic purposes. Some medicinal plants, which have been studied in detail for their use in cosmetics, are being discussed here for further exploration



S.No.Botanical Name &

FamilyCommon

NameChemical Constituents Uses Cosmetic Products

1. Acacia concinna Family: Mimosaceae

Shikakai Lupeol, α- spinasterol, acacia acid, lactone, nicotine, colycotomine, citric, succinic, oxalic, tartaric and ascorbic acids

Pods extract is used to control dandruff & as hair cleanser

Shampoo, oil, soaps.

2. Acorus calamus Family:Araceae

Sweetflag, calanes

α - asarone,pentobarbital,β-asarone, monoterpenes

It is used to relieve burns, skin problems, eruptions

Aromatic, dusting powders, skin lotions.

3. Adansonic digitata Family: Bombacaceae

Baobab,monkey bread, African calabash

Furfural,flavones glycosides,vitamin c, vitamin b, tartaric acid.adansonia flavonoside pigment

It is used to cure skin diseases and anti-inflammatory

Oil, soaps, ointments.

4. Adhatoda vasica Family: Acanthaceae

Malabar nut, vasaca

Quinazoline alkaloid, vasicine, vasicinone

Leaf extract is used to control scabies and used for skin affection

Powder, capsules, fresh extract ,perfumes

5. Aesculas hippocastanum Family:Hippocastanaceae/ Sapindeceae

Horse chest nut

Aescin,hippocaesculin ,coumarin-aesculin & flavonoids

It is used as anti-aging, anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory. It is also used in hair care products.

Creams, lotions, gels, face mask, scrub, toner, cleanser, deodorants, shampoo, soaps.

6. Ailanthus excelsaFamily: Simaroubaceae

Tree of heaven,maharukh

Quassinoids alianthone derivatives

Leaf extract is used for skin eruption.

Skin Creams, lotions

7. Allium sativam Family:Aliaceae

Garlic Alliin,allicin,ajoene,vinyldithins,diallyl disulphide,trisulphide,antioxidant-diallyl tetra,penta,hexa & hepta sulphides

Oil is used to treat sores, pimples and acne.

Skin Creams, lotions

8. Aloe vera Family: Liliaceae / agavaceae

Curacao aloe Barbados aloe Indian aloe Taffarabad aloe

Anthraquinone glycoside-aloin,carboxypeptidase salicylate components, c- glycosyl chromone

Leaf juice is applied on skin for smoothness, healing, controlling skin burns & sun burns.

Moisturizer lotions, creams, hair tonics, shaving creams.

9. Ananus comosusFamily: Bromeliaceae

Pinapple Bromeloin, β-carotene, citronic ,ascorbic acids.

Anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, improves hydration and elasticity

Rejuvenating cream, scrub, problem skin enzyme cleanse

10. Andropogon muricatusFamily: Poaceae

Vetiver, cuscus, khus

Essential oil containsvetiselinenol of khusimol, sesquiterpenoids-vetidiol.

It is used to treat acne, cuts, eczema, dry skin, wounds, and aging skin. Powdered root paste is used to cure irritated skin and allergies.

Perfumes, oils, skin care creams, soaps, body butters, lotions, scents.

11. Arachis hypogaea family: Papilionaceae/ Fabaceae

Peanut, ground nut

Bioflavonoids,vit-P, tannins, capric acid

Emollient, anti-inflammatory. It is used for skin conditioning.

Oil, soaps, moisturizing cream, cleanser,

12. Acrtostaphylos urva – ursiFamily: Eriaceae

Bear berry Arbutin,tannins,flavonolglucoside,isoquercities,methyl arbutin

Skin whitener, melanin inhibitor, it is used for treat skin pigmentation, sunburns, freckles.

Skin creams, skin whitening creams, sunscreen lotion.

13. Arnica montanaFamily: Asteraceae

Arnica, leopard’s bane

Flavonoids (0.4% to 0.6%) , Isomeric alcohols, Terpenoids, amines, coumarins, volatile oils

Flower extract used in hair oil, Stimulates hair follicle.

Creams, micro emulsion, ointments, tinctures.

14. Artemesia absinthiumFamily: compositae/ asteraceae

Wormwood, maderwood

Essential oils thujone(absinthol)azulenes,thujyl alcohol. Artabsin

It is used to treat skin diseases and wounds

Skin ointments.

15. Artemesia afraFamily:Asteraceae

Wild worm wood, African wormwood

α,β-thujone, 1,8-cineole, camphor, α-terpineol

Anti-inflammatory, controls acne, wounds, burns, pimples

Lotions, rejuvenating creams, body wash


16. Azadirachta indica Family: Meliaceae

Neem ,margosa

Tetranortriterpenoids –azadirachtin, diterpenes.

It cures wounds, leprosy, skin diseases like acne, ulcers, hair problems

Facial creams, masks, powders body lotions, shampoos, hair lotions, soaps, ointments.

17. Bambus bambosFamily:Gramineae, poaceae

Spicy or throny bamboo

Cyanogenic glucoside –taxiphyllin silicious crystalline substances

Bamboo emanates a contemplative beauty. Strengthens the existing hair while it fortifies, rejuvenates and prevents hair loss and dandruff. Darkens lashes and brows, and cures allergies

Creams, lotions, scrub, gels, shampoos, hair cleanser, lashes and brows.

18. Betula pendula Family:Betulaceae

Birch Methyl salicylate, fatty acids, polysaccharides.

Extract of leaf is used as anti-dandruff, oil is used to cure skin diseases

Perfumes, shampoos, oil, soap

19. Brassica napus Family: Brassicaceae

Mustard Brassino steroid – brassinolide5-vinyl-2-oxazolidinethone, thioglucosinolates and thioglucosides.

Seed oil is used as hair oil and useful for hair nourishment. It is also used for healthy and glowing skin

Hair oil and conditioner, deodorizer, face mask.

20. Buchanania lanzanFamily: Anacardiaceae

Almondette tree, chironnji,buchanan’s mango

Triacylglycerol,free fattyacids, diacylglycerols, Monoacylglycerols & sterols.

Kernel powder is used to cure itch, blemishes, rashes, spots, pimples burns

Skin ointments, scrub, powder.

21. Butea frondosa Family: Fabaceae

Flame of the forest, butea gum, Bengal kino

Flavonoids, glucosides –butin,butrin,isobutrin & palastrin,coreopsin, monospermoside,and sulphurein&chalcones

Leaves extract is useful in pimples and seed extract for fungal infection and bruises, flower extract for hair and skin conditioning

Skin creams, hair conditioner, powder.

22. Calendula officinalis Family:Asteraceae

Pot-marigold, marigoldcalendula

Triterpenes,sterols,flavonoids,carotenes,bitter glycosides,resins,volatile oil, mucilage

Flower extract is used for smoothening hair. It is used to cure acne, inflammation, and aging.

Hair creams, hydrogels, liquid extracts, anti-wrinkle cream, bath foam.

23. Cammelia sinensisFamily: Theaceae

Green tea Polyphenols,flavonoids,tannins,methyl xanthines

Anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, photo aging, anti-acne.

Face creams, toner, scrub, cleanser, mask, shampoos, sunscreen lotion

24. Cinchona succirubaFamily: Rubiaceae

Red cinchona, china bark, crown. Loxa bark

Quercetin,kaempferol,qviculasion.

Hair growth stimulant. Hair care products

25. Carica papaya Family:Caricaceae

Papaya, papaw Enzymes-Papain & chymopapains. Alkaloids-carpine & pseudocarpine, x-pressin.

fruit pulp make skin soft and removes blemishes. It can be used for treating wrinkles, dandruff, sunspots, age spots, acne problems.

Facial cream ,face cream, bath oil, shampoo, scrub, face mask, anti-aging cream

26. Carthamus tinctorius Family:Asteraceae

Safflower Carthamone,lignans & polysaccharide.

Alcoholic extract is used in hair tonics and seed oil makes skin soft and smooth.

Oil, skin moisturizer, lip balms.

27. Centella asiatica Family: Umbelliferae / Apiaceae

Asiatic pennywort ,Indian pennywort

Brahmoside,asiaticoside,thankuniside,hydrocotyline alkaloid,velarin.

Whole plant extract is used for growth and maintenance of hair. It fights oxidation thereby improves skin firmness and elasticity

Face creams, lotions, toners, scrub, mask, eye creams, hair conditioners.

28. Cereus grandiflorusFamily: Cactaceae

Cereus, night blooming cereus, sweet

Citric,oxalic,malonic,fumaric,maleic acids.glucose,fructose,starch,ami

It moisturizes ,re-mineralizes and tightens skin

moisturizing cream, oil ,face mask



scented cactus no acids & tyramine

29. Cichorium intybus Family: Compositae/ Asteraceae

Chicory Indian endive

Inulin, lactucin, lactucopiciin, citric, tartaric acids, coumarins-chicoriin, esculetin, esculin, scopoletin.

It is used to clear skin blemishes

Skin conditioner, powder, face mask.

30. Citrullus vulgaris family: Cucurbitaceae

Watermelon Citrullin, arginine, triterpene, bryonolic acid

Additives in sun creams, seed oil works as restorative and nourishing for skin, It cures acne, sebum secretion

Creams, Lotions, soaps, eye creams

31. Citrus limon Family: Rutaceae

Lemon Coumarins,psoralins,flavonoids,vitamins, limonene ,α&β pinenes,citral, hesperidin, eriocitrin,geraniol,geranial,neral

Astringent, Oil is used for reducing skin itching and nourishes skin. Lemon grass rejuvenates hair follicles. It whitens and depigments.

Face cream, hair conditioners and shampoos, face mask, lip balm.

32. Cocos nucifera Family:palmae/ Arecaceae

Coconut palm Minerals like potassium, vitamins ,reducing sugars, total sugars, brix

It is used cure skin diseases and dandruff, it nourishes hair.

Oil, hair conditioner, soaps, skin moisturizer.

33. Crocus sativus Family:Iridaceae

Saffron cocus Crocin, pirosin, crocetin, carotenoids, riboflavin, thiamine, terpenes, xanthone.

It is used to treat skin diseases and dresses bruises. It moisturizes, soothes and promote fairness of skin. It treats dandruff and Nourishes hair

Face and skin cream, fairness creams, anti acne, face mask, hair conditioners.

34. Cucumis sativusFamily: Cucurbitaceae

Cucumber Rutin,cucurbitaside glucoside,ferredoxin, alpha-spinasterols, sterols.

Water extract and seeds protects from sunburn. It moisturizes skin. It protects from hair loss. It treats puffy eyes and dark circles.

Hair conditioners, perfumes, skin creams, lotions, toners shampoos,

35. Curcuma longaFamily: Zingiberaceae

Turmeric Curcuminoids,phenolic diaryl heptanoids,curcumin,monodesmethoxycurcumin,turmerone,serquiterpene ketones.

Rhizome powder possesses anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties. It is used in treatment of skin and hair problems.

Facial and face creams, ointments, shampoos, hair colors

36. Cydonia oblonga Family: Rosaceae

Quince fruit Glycoside amygdalin, tannin, mucilage, fattyoil, pectin, Ionone glycosides, octadienoic acid ,thiamine, riboflavin ,nicotinic acid ,vit b6 ,inositol ,pantothenic and folic acids, biotin

Seed extract is used for beautification and protection of skin. It moisturizes hair

Hair gel, skin and face creams

37. Eclipta albaFamily: Composite/ Asteraceae

Trading eclipta plant, false dairy

Wedelolactone and demethyl-wedelolactone

Hair growth stimulant and hair dyeing, paste of herb is useful to control skin diseases.

Hair oil, powder, skin ointments. anti-aging cream

38. Foeniculum vulgareFamily: Umbelliferae/ Apiaceae

Fennel Anethole, fechone methyl chavicol, flavonoids,coumarins, sterols, petroselenic acid and limonene

It is used as de-odorizing agent, soothes skin and cleanses, promotes hair growth

Oil, deodorant, cleanser, toner, anti-cellulite cream, hair conditioner.

39. Garcinia indiacaguttiferae/ olusiaceae

Kokum butter mango, Steen oil

Garcinol,isogarcinol,cyancidin,3-glycoside,cyanidin,coumarins , 3-sambubioside

It is used to regenerate skin cells, prevents dry skin, wrinkles. oxidative stability

Creams, lotions, balms, conditioners, foundations, lipsticks, moisturizers.

40. Gingko bilobaFamily: Ginkgoaceae

Maiden hair tree kew tree

Flavone glycosides,quercetin,kaempferol,terpenes.

Anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory

Face creams ,lotions, sunscreen lotions



41. Glycine maxFamily: Fabaceae

Soya bean,soy Proteins, carbohydrates, amino acids, lipids, mineral salts.

It moisturizes, restores elasticity, flexibility of skin, anti-aging.

Anti- aging cream, sunscreen lotion, hair care products.

42. Glycirrhiza glabra Family:Papilionaceae/ fabaceae

Licorice liquorice

Glycyrrhizin,glycyrrhetincacid,isoflavonoids,chalcones,coumarins,triterpenoids

Skin conditioning, smoothening, soothing, hair conditioning.

Skin creams, lotions, perfumes, hair care products.

43. Gossypium hirsutum/ herbaceum Family: Malvaceae

Cotton Lipids, gossypol, oleic, palmitic, linoleic acids

Cotton milk has Skin moisturizing, hair repairing and conditioning.

Skin creams and cleanser, hair care products, eye makeup, soaps, lotions

44. Jasminum grandiflorumFamily: Oleaceae

Spanish jasmine

Benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, phytol, jasmone, methyl jasmonate, ascorbic acid, anthranillic acid, pyridine & nicotinate derivatives.

Essential oil extracted from flowers is used to control skin diseases, essential oil extracted from plant protects from sunburn

Creams, lotions, sunscreen lotions,

45. Juglans regiaFamily: Juglandaceae

Walnut Juglone, juglandin, juglandic acid, essential oil, minerals, terpenoids, geranic acid, α&β-pinene, 1,8cineole, limonene, β-eudesmol.

Leaves and hulls of fruits used for hair dyeing, combats skin problems. It cures dandruff and scalp problems.

Hair colors or dyes, face cleanser, scrub, soaps, powders, shampoos, conditioners.

46. Lavendula veraFamily: Labiatae/lamiaceae

Lavender Essential oil- linalool, linalyl acetate, borneol, camphor, lavandulyl ,caryophyllene, limonene. Aerial parts-ursolic acid, lactone, betulin, betuliinic acid, 3 β formyl ursolic acid

It is cytophylactic and anti-aging, refresher; it improves hair growth and texture. It cures many hair problems like dandruff.

Essential oil, creams, lotions, powder, toner, shampoo, conditioners, showergel, lip balm, deodorant, ointments.

47. Lawsonia inermis Family: Lythraceae

Henna Lawsone,coumarins,flavonoids,luteolin,7-o-glucoside,acacetin-7-o-glucoside,β-sitosterol 3-o-glucoside and tannins

Leaves paste used to hair dyeing and nourishment, it is used as hair growth accelerator.

Hair colors, dyes, shampoos, oils

48. Mallotus philippensisFamily: Euphorbiaceae

Kamala Isorottlerin, rottlerin, kamaladiol 3-acetate friedelin

Flower powder is used to treat skin diseases, seed oil used as fixative in cosmetics

Skin conditioners, hair fixer, ointments.

49. Malus pumilaFamily: Rosaceae

Apple Malic,citric,lactic & succinic acid, vitamins,minerals,flavones,amygdalin glycoside

Used to treat sun burns and skin diseases, dandruff. It is used to moisturize skin and as anti-aging.

Creams, lotions, Hair rinse, lip balms, shampoos, anti-aging creams

50. Mangifera indica Family: Anacardiaceae

Mango Citric and ascorbic acids , carotenoids ,phenolic compounds,flavonoids,β-amyrins,gallotannin,glucogallin,indicol,taraxerol,friedelin,lupeol.

It soothes, moisturizes, and regenerates skin cells. It is used to treat skin diseases and as anti-aging.

Moisturizers , lotions, lip balms, soaps, Sunscreen creams, body butters, hair care products, essential oils

51. Matricaria chamomileFamily: Compositae/ Asteraceae

Chamomile α-bisabolol, azulenes,-chamazulene,guiazuline & matricine,flavonoids,patuletin,quercetin,spiroethers & coumarins

Flowers are used as Hair tonic. Leaves extract is used for skin problems

Creams, shampoos

52. Melaleuca alternifoliaFamily: Myrtaceae

Tea tree a-pinene, b-pinene, sabinene, myrcene, a-phellandrene, a-terpinene, limonene, 1,8-cineole, y-terpinene, p-cymene, terpinolene, linalool, terpinen-4-ol and a-terpineol.

Used to treat skin and hair problems like acne, dandruff.

Creams, lotions , conditioners

53. Mentha arvensisFamily: Labiatae/ Lamiaceae

Japanese mint Menthol, menthone. α&β-pinene, α-thujene,l-limonene,β-phellandrene,furfural,methylcyclohexanone,camphene

Acts against pigmentation and skin diseases and has as moisturizing, cooling, anti-perspirant, anti-aging properties

Creams, lotions, soaps, cleansers, whitening creams, soaps, perfumes, hair oil and shampoo



54. Momordica charantia Family: Cucurbitaceae

Bitter guard, blsam pear ,karela

Momordicosides,charantin,diosgenin,cholesterol,lanosterol, sitoserol,cucurbitacin glycosides, 5-hydroxytryptamine.

Plant extract is anti-oxidant, astringent. Root paste cures pimples and eczema.

Hair and skin conditioners, face cleanser, ointments.

55. Nardostachys jatamansifamily: Valerianceae

Spikenard mask root

Sesquiterpenoids,d-nardostachone,valeranone,jjatamansone.

Extract of rhizome is used for hair growth

Hair tonics.

56. Ocimum sanctum Family:labiatae/ lamiaceae

Camphor basil Camphor,pinene,limonene,terpinolene,myrcene,β-phellandrene,linalool,camphene,p-cymene,borneol or α-selinene.

Leaf extract is useful to control skin infection and rejuvenation. used as skin and hair conditioners

Shampoos, creams, ointments, powder, oils

57. Panax ginsengFamily: Araliaceae

Indian ginseng, Indian pseudoginseng

Oleanolic acid, saponins, ginsenosides Rb1,Rb2,Rb3,Rc,Rd,Re,Rgl,pseudoginisenoside F11&chikusetsu saponin V

It is used to strengthen and promote growth of hair and rejuvenates skin

Shampoos, conditioners, lotions, anti-aging creams, bath soaps, body milks, eye makeup

58. Persea americana Family : Lauraceae

Avocado alligator pear butter fruit

Linoleic acid,fat,protein,minerals,vitamins

It used to cure skin disorders. It nourishes, moisturizes and rejuvenates skin, hydrates hair and skin.

Creams, lotions, pomades, face mask, anti-cellulite cream, shampoos, soaps, conditioners.

59. Phyllanthus emblicaFamily: Euphorbiaceae

Emblic, Indian gooseberry

Vit.c, gallic acid,ascrobic acid & music acid

Fruit extract is anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory. Seed and pulp extract is used for hair and scalp problems

Skin powders and creams. shampoos ,conditioners, hair oils

60. Pistia stratiotesFamily: Araceae

Water lettuce, tropical duck weed

2-di-c-glycosylflavones of vicenin & lucenin,anthocyanincynidin 3-glucoside, liteolin 7-glycoside & mono c-glycosylflavones-vitexin &orientin

Used for skin and hair care. Leaf extract to control chronic skin disorders.

Anti-aging creams, hair care products, perfumes.

61. Portulaca oleraceaeFamily: Portulacaceae

Common purslane

l-noradrenaline,dopamine,l-dopa,catachol

It is used for hair growth, and to treat dandruff and skin moisturizer.

Shampoos, conditioners, creams.

62. Prunus amygdalusFamily: Rosaceae

Almond Amandin, globulin, Oleum Amygdalae, oleic, palmitin, linoleic acids.

It is used for moisturizing and nourishing skin. It nourishes hair and promotes growth. Kernel extract is used in sun creams

Sunscreen lotions, Creams, lotions, face scrubs, cleanser, masks .soaps, hair care products, oils

63. Prunus armeniaceFamily:Rosaceae

Apricot 3,4-dihydroxy benzoic,chlorogenic and vanillic acids, quecertin,quercitrin,rutin,hyperoside &kaempferol,cyanidin,caffeic acid & p-coumaric acid

Apricot kernel oil has moisturizing, nourishing and revitalizing properties. anti-kerati

Anti-aging creams, face creams, masks, oils, lotions ,balms

64. Pterocarpus santalinusFamily: Fabaceae

Red sandal wood, red sanders

Terpenoids,pigments-santalin A&B .Triterpenoids,acetyl oleanic aldehyde,acetyl oleinic acid,erthyrodiol

It is used to treat skin problems and moisturizes, reduces wrinkles, de frizzes hair.

Perfumes, powders, lotions, shampoo, anti-aging creams, toner, masks, soaps.

65. Rheum coreanumFamily: Polygonaceae

Rhubarb Flavonoids, triterpenoids UV absorption and free radical scavenger.

Creams, lotions, sunscreen lotions, soaps, lip shimmer, powders

66. Rosa damasceneFamily: Rosaceae

Damask rose Quercetin,kaempferol,cyanidin,lycopene,rubixathin,zeaxanthin,xanthophyll,taraxanthin.citronellol,nerol,geraniol,β-phenylethanol,eugenol, methyl

Essential oil from flowers is used for protection from sun burns and skin smoothening.

Creams , lotions, ointments



eugenol, vitc, malic & citric acids ,flavonoids.

67. Salvia officinalis Family:Labiatae/ Lamiaceae

Sage Carnosolic acid,flavonoids,diterpene quinonesroyleanone cirsiliol,linalool,&α-terpineol

Enhances growth and darkens hair. Treats skin problems. Anti perspirant and anti-oxidant.

Essential oil, toner, bath products, shaving creams, shampoos and conditioners, face mask, anti-wrinkle creams, deodorants.

68. Santalum albumFamily: Santalaceae

White sandal wood

Stillingia oil, palmitic,oleic,ellagic,galic acids, isoquercetrin,phloroacetophenone,2,4-dimethylether,moretenone,moretenol, tri terpene.

Paste of hardwood is used in face packs. Essential oil for protection from sunburns. It is anti-oxidant.

Creams, lotions, ointments, powders, anti-cellulite cream.

69. Sapisdas mukorossiFamily: Sapinadaceae

Chinese soap berry soap nut free

Saponis A&c sapindosine A&B, hederagenin, quercetin, kaempferol,apigenin & rutin

Extract of fruit coat is used as hair and body cleanser. exfoliates skin and hair

Shampoo, cleanser, toner, Creams.

70. Saussurea lappa Family:Compositae/ Asteraceae

Kuth, costus Resinoids,euentiol oil,alkaloid saussurine,inulin,saussurea lactone

Root extract is used to treat chronic skin disorders and hair dyeing.

Ointments, hair dyes or colors.

71. Sesamum indicum Family:Pedaliaceae

Sesame, gingelly

Sterols,lignans,sesamin,nitrolactone,sesamolin,thiamine,niacin,riboflavin,nicotinic acid,vit A,pyridoxine & ascorbic acid

Seed extract is used for skin protection and rejuvenation. Seed oil is used as base for hair oils

Creams , hair oils

72. Terminalia bellirica Family: Combretaceae

Belleric myrobalan, bastard myrobalan

β – sitosterol,gallic & ellagic acids, ethyl gallate,galloyl glucose, chebulagic acid,cardiac glycoside bellaricanin.

Seed extract and oil is used in hair dyeing preparations. It is used to treat cutaneous disorders.

Hair dyes or colors, ointments.

73. Terminalia chebula Family:combretaceae

Chebulic and black myrobalan

Chebulic acid, tannin and ellagic acid

Seed extract is used in hair care formulations. It is highly astringent.

Hair care preparations, ointments.

74. Theobroma cacao Family: Sterculiaceae

Cocoa, theobroma ,chocolate tree

Methylxanthine, sulphur, magnesium, phenylethylamine, anandamide.

Skin softener and conditioner, moisturizes, anti-wrinkle effect, restores flexibility

Creams, lotions, pomades, ointments, balms.

75. Thymus serpyllum family: Labiatae/ Lamiaceae

Mother of thyme, wild thyme

Linalool,p-cymol, thymol, carvacol,1-8-cineole,borneol,geraniol,linalool,bornyl,lenalyl acetate,thymol,methyl ether, α –pinene,flavonoids & caffeic acid

Whole herb extract is used for hair tonic preparations

Hair care products.

76. Trigonella foenum –graecumFamily: Papilionaceae/ Fabaceae

Fenugreek Alkaloids, saponins, ,flavonoids, fenugreekinee.

Seed extract is used as hair cleanser, improves hair growth. It has astringent and cooling properties. It is used for skin care.

Shampoos, hair colors and hair care products, cleansers, toners, creams.

77. Tricum aestivumFamily: Gramineae/ Poaceae

Wheat Lysine,tocopherols,linoleicacid, minerals,proteins & lipids

Leaf extract is anti-oxidant, wheat ceramides improves hydration

Creams, lotions, skin moisturizer.

78. Urtica dioica/ferox/thunbergianaFamily: Urticaceae

Nettle Vitamins, triterpens, sterols, mineral salts, flavonoids, tannins, proteins, mucilage and linoleic acid

It is used to treat skin and scalp, hair problems

Anti-dandruff shampoos, ointments, extract.

79. Withania somnifera Family: Solanaceae

Winter cherry Alkaloids-withanine,with ananine,pseudowithanine,somnine,somniferinine.withaferin-A.

Whole plant extract is used for skin cleansing and anti-oxidant

Skin cleanser.



HERBAL PLANTS WITH COSMETIC USES

ALMOND

SCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION PICTURES

Binomial name :

Kingdom : Order : Family : Genus : Species :Synonyms :

Prunus dulcis (P. Mill) D.A. WebbPlantaeRosalesRosaceaePrunusP.dulcisAmygdalus communis L., Prunus amygdalus Batsch, Prunus communis (L.) Arcang.

BIOLOGICAL DESCRIPTIONAlmonds are known to be the king of nuts. The fruit of the almond is not a true nut, but a drupe, consisting of an outer hull and a hard shell with the seed ("nut") inside [15].MorphologyThe almond is a small deciduous tree, with height of 4-10 m. The flowers are white or pale pink, 3–5 cm

diameter with five petals. Chemical ConstituentsAlmonds contain approximately 49% oils, of which 62% is monounsaturated oleic acid (an omega-9 fatty acid),

24% is linoleic acid (a polyunsaturated omega-6 essential fatty acid), and 6% is palmitic acid (a saturated fatty acid)[19] and the "Oleum Amygdalae", the fixed oil, prepared from either variety of almond and is a glyceryl oleate, with a slight odor and a nutty taste[15]. The other main fatty acids contained in sweet almond oil are: myristic, palmitoleic, heptadecenoic, 9-heptadecenoic, stearic, linolenic, arachidic, eicosenoic[18]. Cosmetic UsesAlmond oil is popular as base oil for massages because it's hypoallergenic and can be used on sensitive skin. It is good softener as well as gives a healthy radiant glow [25]. It is Nourishing because almonds are a powerhouse of antioxidants, almond oil contains these beneficial nutrients that work to protect skin from environmental damage and boost the natural repair mechanisms in skin. Almond oil contains essential fatty acids that work to balance the skin's moisture levels by creating a barrier, limiting moisture loss and restoring the skin's natural protective cells while allowing the skin to absorb moisture[26]. Almond oil when applied for hair it nourishes and softens hair cuticles and makes hair long, strong and thick. Massaging with almond oil adds shine to the hair and controls hair fall[28].Formulations/ProductsRejuvenating Face Wash, Purifying Face Mask, Cellumend Anti-Cellulite Cream ,soaps, creams and moisturizer, foot cream, cleanser, massage oil, hair care products, bath oils, lipstick, skin cleansing products, moisturizers, night skin care products and sunscreen products .facial scrub, facial mask, essential oil, almond milk concentrate, almond shower gel, almond supple skin oil, almond tonic body oil, sweet almond eco-refill liquid soap, shower oil, almond essential oil.

80. Zea mays Family: Gramineae / poaceae

Maize, corn, Indian corn

Saponins,alantoin,sterols,β-sitosterol & stigmasterol,alkaloid-hordenine,polyphenols,vit c & k, cryptox anthin & anthocyanins.

Stigma extract is used for skin rejuvenating

Creams, lotions.



JOJOBASCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION PICTURESBinomial name:Kingdom:Order:Family: Genus:Species: Synonyms:

Simmondsia chinensisPlantaeCaryophyllalesSimmondsiaceaeSimmondsiaS. chinensisWild hazel, quinine nut, coffee berry, and gray box bush

Botanical DescriptionThe word "jojoba" refers both to the desert plant and to the extract obtained from its seed. Jojoba is a small tree like perennial woody, evergreen shrub and grows to 1-2m tall with a broad dense crown.[29]

MorphologyThe fruit is an acorn-shaped ovoid and 3-angled capsule 1-2cm long. The seed is hard oval, dark brown in color and contains oil. The jojoba leaves are opposite, oval in shape 2-4 cm long and 1.5-3cm broad, thick waxy glaucous gray-green in color. Jojoba flowers are small, greenish yellow with 5-6 sepals and no petals[33] .Chemical constituentsChemical constituents of jojoba oil bear striking similarity with human sebum. So plays crucial part in cosmetics and beauty care industry. It can be used in the form of derivatives such as jojoba esters, isopropyl jojobate, jojoba alcohol (eicosanol, docosanol, hexocosanol). Jojoba seed contain 3% moisture, 15% protein, 42-58% liquid wax esters, 5-7% simmondsin, α, γ, δ, tocopherols (50ppm). Jojoba contains straight-chained c20 and c22 fatty acids and two unsaturated bonds. Jojoba oil contains nutrients, phospholipids, vitamin E, B complex and minerals silicon, chromium, copper ,zinc and iodine. It also includes palmitic, palmitoleic, oleic(10-13%), linoleic, linolenic, arachidic, eicosenoic(66-71%), behenic, erucic, docosenoic(14-20%), lignoceric, nervonic fatty acids. Oil is a mixture of wax esters 36-46 C atoms in length. Each molecule consists of fatty acids and fatty alcohols joined by ester bond. 98% fatty acids are unsaturated at omega-9[35].Cosmetic UsesFor skinJojoba oil when applied to the skin of any type balances the internal constituents of sebum. It is therefore an excellent moisturizer for all kinds of skins. It has skin penetration, emolliency and softening, rejuvenating properties. It has ability to minimize fine lines, skin marks, scars wrinkles on face and neck and promotes suppleness [36]. It forms a non-greasy, non-tacky layer with exceptional trans-epidermal water control thereby prevents dehydration of skin and excessive water loss and keep the skin plump and healthy. It cleans clogged pores and restores skin’s natural pH balance. It acts as an effective cleanser, antioxidant, hypoallergenic. Anti-bacterial properties make it useful for treatment of acne, pimples and blackheads [37].

For hairJojoba is good hair conditioner and provides excellent scalp treatment. It protects the hair against ill effects of dandruff, split ends, and dry hair. It provides strength to hair roots and promotes thickness and lustrous hair. It prevents hair fall and makes hair shiny and glossy. It is moisturizing to improve texture and manageability.Keratoplastic effect that leaves hair shimmering and brings out hair’s natural color overtones and brilliance[35].Formulations/ ProductsJojoba- Cleansing oil, facial moisturizer, lip conditioner, cuticle oil, body oil, eye makeup remover, cleanser for facial makeup, night cream, soaps, day cream(sensitive and multi active), face scrub, face mask, eye cream, shampoo. Defatted jojoba meal - mechanical exfoliant in cosmetic scrub or peeling products. Hydrogenated jojoba oil- lipsticks, mascara, eyeliner, lipbalm. Golden quality jojoba oil- pigmented and fragranced cosmetic formulations. Jojoba alcohol-it is water resistant, emollient-cosmetic formulations. Jojoba wax- lipsticks, skincare lotions, bath bead preparations, peeling products, skin exfoliants, sunscreens, hair conditioners and serum, cleansers, toners.



LAVENDERSCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION PICTURESBinomial name:Kingdom:Order:Family:Genus:Species:

Lavendula augustfolia millerPlantaeLamialesLamiaceaeLavandulaL.augustfolia, L.officinalis, L.spica(39 species)

Biological DescriptionLavender is an evergreen perennial woody shrub of about 1 m height. With gray-green narrow linear leaves and blunt spikes of purple-blue flowers. The whole plant is highly aromatic[38].MorphologyLavender flowers: Flowers may be blue, violet or lilac and are borne in whorls, held on spikes rising above the foliage[40]. Chemical constituentsOver 150 different constituents among them main ones are linalool(20-46%) and terpene esters : linalyl acetate(36-51%), it is these which give lavender its light, sweetish.[38] The best known active component in lavender are geraniol, terpenoid oxides:1-8 cineole(0.2-2.2%) and coumarin which has cleansing and germicidal effect[43]. The main chemical constituents of True Lavender are Esters (45%), Alcohols (36%) and Ketones (4%)[42]. Volatile oil containing over 40 constituents, including linyalyl acetate, cineole, linalool, nerol, borneol, Flavonoids, Tannis[44]. The main chemical components of lavender oil are a-pinene, limonene, monoterpenes : cis-ocimene, trans-ocimene(2.5-7.6%), ketones:3-octanone, lavendulyl acetate(3.4-6.2%), sesquiterpenes: caryophyllene, monoterenols:terpinen-4-ol(2.7-6.9%).[45][50]

Cosmetic UsesFor skinIt has antiseptic, antibacterial, anti-toxic, anti-inflammatory, bactericide, cicatrizant, rubefacient, restorative, vulnerary and tonic therapeutic effects on the skin. Its cytophylactic properties (encouraging the growth of new skin cells) stimulate the growth of new skin cells, which is a boon for any anti-aging skin care product [45]. For hairLavender oil, one of the best aromatherapy oils known to be very effective in controlling hair fall and it also enhances blood circulation; hence a scalp massage will definitely help improve hair growth and hair texture. Formulations/ProductsHand wash ,body cream, massage oil, foaming bath, body lotion, shower gel, perfume, bath salts, lavender water, lavender essential oil, lavender soap, lavender dew, talcum powder, bath oil, deodorant, face mist, night cream, day cream, eye cream, facial scrub, foot rejuvenator, face mask, cleansing cream, facial steams, anti-aging cream, face wash gel, shampoo and conditioner, lip balm, skin moisturizing day gel, spot treatment cream, antiseptic ointments, hair rinses, salves, sachets, toner, facial steams.[8][1][9]

LUCUMASCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION PICTURESBinomial name:

Kingdom:Order: Family:Genus:Species:Synonyms:

Pouteria lucuma (Ruiz & Pav.) KuntzePlantaeEricalesSapotaceaePouteriaP. lucumaLucuma obovata, Pouteria obavata, lucumo.



Biological DescriptionLucuma is a perennial subtropical Peruvian fruit species. The fruit was first seen and reported by Europeans in the Chinchasuyu region of the Inca Empire in 1531[51]. It is also called "eggfruit" in English[52].MorphologyLucuma is a vigorous, evergreen tree about 8-15 m tall; the fruit is fleshy, green, approx. 4-10 cm in diameter, with bright yellow pulp and distinctive flavor. The crown is dense, rounded, and profusely branched, from 6 m to 10 m in diameter. The young branchlets have dark- or light-brown velvety hairs and copious milky latex. Chemical ConstituentsLucuma seed extract (LSE) is rich in bioactive fatty acids (FAs), Ascorbic acid, beta carotene, betulinic acid, calcium, and methionine. Bioactives : LSE contains a unique combination of natural free fatty acids (FAs), 99.7% of which correspond to linoleic acid (38.9%), oleic acid (27.9%), palmitic acid (18.6%), stearic acid (8.9%), γ-linolenic acid (2.9%) and other 16 minor FAs. It was observed that LSE induced cell migration and cytoskeleton remodeling in human fibroblasts and inhibited LPS-induced nitric oxide production in macrophages [54].Cosmetic UsesThe oil of lucuma seed basically has three effects, it increases the re-growth of endothelial cells; fibroblast migration, and tissue regeneration, and also displays anti-inflammatory effect. This is important since wound closure and skins wrinkling are both intimately related to the migration of specific cells in our skin called fibroblasts, the extract from the seed of Pouteria lucuma can help increase the expression of elastin. The lack of elastin, or the decrease in elastin fibres, is one of the main reasons for wrinkles to occur [55]. It is novel and efficacious cosmetic ingredient capable of antibacterial, anti-acne, antioxidant, anti-allergic and skin-repair effects on human skin. Anti-aging: LSE also significantly increased elastin at protein and mRNA levels. LSE also prevented aberrant nuclei phenotype in our model of cellular senescence [54].Formulations / ProductsAnti-aging creams, wound healing ointments and lotions.

SAGESCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION PICUTURESBinomial name:Kingdom:Order:Family:Genus:Species:Synonyms:

Salvia officinalisPlantaeLamialesLamiaceaeSalviaS.officinalis, S.foliumSage, sage extract, salbei.

Biological DescriptionSage is a decorative evergreen perennial shrub, camphor scented and attractive purple-blue flowers arranged in spirals and bloom in august[56].MorphologyIt is an aromatic, sun-loving plant with mauvish flower. It is a shrublet with square stems bearing opposite pairs of grey, rough-textured leaves. It is 2 ft tall and wide, the leaves are oblong, ranging in size up to 2.5 in long by 1 in wide. Leaves are grey-green, rugose on the upper side, and nearly white underneath due to the many short soft hairs[58].Chemical ConstituentsSage oil contains Camphor (20.73-26.07%), ß-caryophyllene (2.28- 9.19%). Borneol, -thujone (13.84-21.96), 1,8-cineole (13.94-20.40%), ß-thujone (7.07-9.34%) have antiradical activity[59], phenolic acid such as rosmarinic acid, diterpenoids (carnosol and rosmanol), triterpenes (oleanic acid and its derivatives) and luteolin-7-glucoside[56]. Sage leaf contains tannic acid, oleic acid, ursonic acid, ursolic acid, cornsole, cornsolic acid, fumaric acid, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, niacin, nicotinamide, flavones, flavonoid glycosides, and estrogenic substances[60].

Cosmetic UsesFor Hair: Leaves can be strewn in bathwater and in rinse water to enhance dark hair. Sage extract is used in Hesol Rim Jean-Aeck, a type of oil protects the growth period of hair from shortening through Cell differentiation control generated by DHP, catalyzes the growth of new hair, extends the growth period of the existing hair, so, it is excellent at growing hair and preventing fall-out hair.



For skin: Sage is a superb antiseptic, anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, astringent and has healing properties.

Formulations/Products

Sage essential oil, rejuvenating toner, bath gels, foam bath, bath products, shaving creams, fragrance products,cleansing products, lotions and shampoos for greasy hair, serums for face and eye, face mask, anti-wrinkle cream, essential oil, toner, antiseptic creams, deodorants.

RASPBERRY

Biological DescriptionThe raspberry is the perennial edible fruit of a multitude of plant species [61].American red raspberry is a native, deciduous shrub [62]. Red raspberry and black raspberry are cosmetically used for maintaining healthy skin and hair.MorphologyRaspberry Seed Oil is a yellowish oil or bright gold to reddish color, typical in taste and smell [64]. Raspberry grows up to 1.5 meters high with biennial stems. The leaves are pinnately compound, with three to five leaflets. Chemical ConstituentsRecent studies of red raspberry seeds by Canadian researchers (Oomah et al, 2000) show that the most abundant fatty acids found in raspberry oil were linoleic (54.2%), omega-3 alpha linolenic(29.7%) and oleic acids(11%). In addition to abundant polyunsaturated fatty acids(81-85%), red raspberry seed oil may also be a very rich source of alpha and gamma tocopherol(Vitamin E), Carotenoids(Vitamin-A)as well as y-tocopherol (Oomah et al, 2000), tocotrienols and minerals[66][67].Cosmetic UsesThe oil is highly moisturizing and emollient absorbs rapidly into the skin and the presence of vitamin E has a well-known function in skin repair and conditioning. The oil also offers the skin broad spectrum protection from damaging UV-A and UV-B rays. It has strong antioxidant properties. Raspberry seed oil can be used for sensitive/dry skin. It prevents rashes, acne and it has nourishing, protective, soothing and healing properties [64]. Red raspberry seed oil has very potent activity in inhibiting Cox-2 enzymes and can be used both topically and taken internally for inhibition of inflammation. Black Raspberry Seed Oil supports a healthy immune system and has anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties[68]. FormulationsSalves, anhydrous formulations, scar ointments, burn relief creams, soaps, cleansers. Cosmetics (body lotions/creams, scrub ,anti-ageing creams, eye creams, sunscreen lotions, lip products, bath oil, hair care products-Shampoo, sun care formulations, tooth paste and massage oils) and Nutricosmetics.

SHEA BUTTERSCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION PICTURESBinomial name:Kingdom:Order:Family:Genus:Species:

Butyrospermum parkiiPlantaeEricalesSapotaceaeButyrospermumB.parkii, B.paradoxa,

SCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION PICTURESBinomial name:Kingdom:Order:Family:Genus:Species:Synonyms:

Rubus idaeusPlantaeRosalesRosaceaeRubusR.idaeusRaspberry, gray leaf



Synonyms:Vitellaria paradoxaShea tree, vitellaria/karate

Biological DescriptionThe Shea tree is perennial. The Shea fruit is ellipsoidal berry consists of a thin, tart, nutritious pulp that surrounds a relatively large, oil-rich seed from which Shea butter is extracted[70]. Shea butter is a slightly yellowish or ivory-colored natural fat extracted from the fruits and the resulting oil is refined in several steps in order to improve flavor, color and oxidative stability[71]. MorphologyShea nut trees grow 15 to 20 m high. The shea fruit is a 4-8 cm and greenish-yellow in color, containing the hard-shelled seed (nut) enclosing a soft kernel with oil content of 40-60%. This one contains the fatty material (butter). 15 to 20 kg of fruit yields 3 to 4 kg of dry almonds, which eventually yields 1.5 kg to 2 kg of butter[73].Chemical ConstituentsNative shea butter is complex fat consists mainly of triglycerides and a large fraction of unsaponifiable materials (2-11%) (cinnamic acid esters of triterpene alcohols, kariten and sterols), oleic (40-60%), stearic (20-50%) and linoleic (3-11%) acids. The most characteristic triterpene alcohol of shea butter is butyrospermol and lupeol, α/β-amyrin. Shea butter also contains provitamin A, allantoin, tocopherols (Vitamin E) functioning as antioxidants. Cosmetic UsesShea butter is used in skin aging treatment, protecting and regenerating skin. It has moisturizing, emollient and anti-inflammatory properties. It is used to soothe irritated and chapped skin, improve the release of polar active ingredients, prevent wrinkle formation, and protect skin against climate and UV aggressions. It also protects from fading scars, burns, rashes, dark spots, skin discolorations, stretch marks, blemishes[77][72]. Shea Butter can be formulated into capillary preparations to prevent and treat scalp dryness, and provide good lubrication for the hair, resulting in improved brilliance and manageability. It is the effective natural additive for your skin and hair care products[78]. Shea butter revitalizes, repairs, prevents breakage and restores hydro-lipid balance[73].

Formulations

Skin care creams, bases for butters, lip sticks and lip balms, topical ointments, after sun products and sun care creams, hand and body lotions, shaving and depilatory preparations, glamour cosmetics(hydrophobic), bath oil, facial moisturizer, anti-acne creams, liniments, rubs, first aid creams, soaps, hair conditioners, emulsions, hair mask, Day Cream Multi-Active, Night Cream Multi-Active, Cream Egalisante, Body Butter, winter sports cream, shampoos, make up remover formulations, compact/liquid make up., after shave creams, anti-aging creams, massage oils, hand and body wash, shower gels, facial wash

SANDAL WOODSCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION PICTURESBinomial name:Kingdom:Order:Family:Genus:Species:Synonyms:

Pterocarpus santalinusPlantaeFabalesFabaceaePterocarpusP.santalinusPterocarpi Lignum, Santalum rubrum, Lignum rubrum, Rubywood, Rasura Santalum Ligni.



Biological DescriptionSandal wood tree is 20 to 25 feet high, covered with rough bark resembling that of the Common Alder, and

bearing spikes of yellow flowers[79]. Sandalwood is the name of a class of fragrant woods MorphologyIt is a light-demanding fast growing small tree growing to 8 m tall with a trunk 50–150 cm diameter even on degraded soils. It is not frost tolerant, being killed by temperatures of −1 °C. The leaves are alternate, 3–9 cm long, trifoliate with three leaflets. The flowers are produced in short racemes. The fruit is a pod 6–9 cm long containing one or two seeds. Chemical ConstituentsThe coloring principle, called Santalin, is readily soluble in alcohol, partially soluble in essential but almost insoluble in water. Ether, alkalis, and three other crystalline principles have also been described as being present: Santal, Pterocarpin, and Homopterocarpin. A small quantity of tannin (Kino-tannic acid) is found in the wood[79]. Sandalwood essential oil mainly consists of component β-santalol (~90%) which has antimicrobial properties[80].Cosmetic UsesThe skin moistened with powder of Red Sandalwood will send forth a delicate fragrance and will be felt very smoothly. Being rubbed, the powder of Red Sandalwood will produce wood oxygen. Wood oxygen can soothe nerves and activate brain and hasten the reproduction of cells and prevent wrinkles with long-term use of the powder of Rose Sandalwood[83]. Sandalwood powder used on skin for healing different skin disorders. It helps in giving clear and clean skin tone. Sandalwood powder helps in maintaining a flawless complexion by removing blackheads and acne, oily skin, pimples. Yellow sandalwood powder is used for reducing the wrinkles present on skin. This powder is also used for the removal of tan caused due to ultraviolet rays of sun[84]. Sandalwood essential oil is skin (external) antiseptic. It is used in aromatherapy. Sandalwood oil should never be applied to the skin without being diluted in carrier oil due to its strength. It provides perfumes with a striking wood base note. Sandalwood smells like wood scents and it has a bright and fresh edge with few natural analogues. When used in smaller proportions in a perfume, it is an excellent fixative to enhance the head space of other fragrances[80]. Sandalwood oil has curl relaxing, de-frizzing, and moisturizing properties so used for hair.Formulations/ProductsRed sandal wood lotion, toner, facial cream, message oil, essential oil, anti-aging cream, facial mask, hair rinse, shampoo, curl relaxer, soaps, perfume, acne skin care products, sandal wood paste, powder.

PEACH

Biological DescriptionA peach is either whitish or yellowish in color, combined with a red color or blush, depending on the variety [87]. The peach tree can grow up to twenty feet in height, but is usually much smaller[86].

MorphologyThe leaves are lanceolate, 7–16 cm long (3–6 in), 2–3 cm broad, pinnately veined. The flowers are produced in early spring before the leaves; they are solitary or paired, 2.5–3 cm diameter, pink, with five petals[90]. Chemical ConstituentsPeach Tree Leaf has demulcent, sedative, diuretic, and expectorant properties [86]. Peach fruit is rich in vitamin A. Peach kernel contains beneficial A, B, and E vitamins. A peach (edible part) has carbohydrates, sugars, fiber, vitamin A & C, iron and potassium[91].

SCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION PICTURESBinomial name:Kingdom:Division:Class:Order:Family:Genus:Species:Synonyms:

Prunus persicaPlantaeMagnoliophytaMagnoliopsidaRosalesRosaceaePrunusP.persicaAmygdalin, Persica vulgaris, vitamin B-17, Amygdalus persica



Cosmetic UsesFor skinPeaches are rich sources of skin-renewing alpha-hydroxy fruit acids which help to slough off dead cells, and vitamins A and C to nourish new ones, all of which help skin to look more vital, youthfully dewy complexion. Peach juice unclogs pores, tightens sagging skin, banishes blemishes, lightens age spots, and reduces wrinkles, giving skin a fresher and more vital appearance [89]. Peach kernel is utilized for various cosmetic applications. Peach kernel is commonly utilized in facial massage oils as it easily gets absorbed by the skin. [85]. Peach used to moisturize whole body, but best for oily skin types and nourishes, Hydrates and good for all skin types[89].For HairPeach leaf extract and peach juice extract gives moisturized, manageable hair [92]. Peach is used in many shampoo and conditioners. It is also used for aromatherapy. Formulations/ProductsHand wash, body wash, body moisturizer; make up face crèmes, perfumes, anti-aging cream. Toner, face packs, delicate skin mask, peach firming mask, nourishing, hydrating, soothing mask, shampoos, conditioners, rinses[89].

REFERENCES1. Pandey Shivanand*,Meshya Nilam,

D.Viral, Herbs Play an Important Role in the Field of Cosmetics, International Journal of PharmTech Research, Vol.2, No.1, Jan-Mar 2010, pp. 632-639

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3. Draelos ZD, 2003a, Botanical antioxidants, Cosmetic Dermatol, 2003, 16(10), 41-42

4. Glaser DA, Anti-ageing products and cosmeceuticals. Facial Plast Surg, Clin N Am, 2004, 12, 363-372

5. Draelos ZD, 2003b, Topical Anti-inflammatory agents, Cosmetic Dermatol, 2003, 16(10), 41-42

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