2006.9.1 r&d center - baz...

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2006.9.1

RoundProtection- SUNSIL TZin50AS- UV capsule 60

SUNJIN CHEMICAL R&D CENTER

Cosmetic Raw Material Presentation

SUNJINSeptember 2006

Overview: High SPF Trend

Overview• Makeup claiming varying SPF levels is sold all over the

world

• It has long been desirable however, particularly in Asia, to have foundation with a high SPF desirable

• However, typically foundations come in the form of Pressed powders, which are difficult make cosmetically acceptable with a high SPF

• The levels of ultrafine titanium dioxide required for high SPF values result in a product that is, among others, too dry

• Adding organic sunscreen agents to pressed powder compositions creates a product exhibiting a cosmetically undesirable glaze

• Moreover it’s much more difficult to make a high UVA protection makeup than a high SPF because of limited availability of organic UV filters to make a high PA, because inorganic UV filters such as TiO2 or Zinc Oxide are required to use, which greatly enhances chalkiness, grittiness of the makeup

How to achieve make up with High SPF & High PA while not hurting sensory feeling?

ActivesTiO2ZnOOMCBEMTBEMT: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Tinosorb S

A Korean pressed powder With SPF 32 & PA++

Estee Lauder Cyber WhiteSilky Bright Powder Foundation SPF 20/PA++

http://www.laneige.co.kr/product/base_makeup_starwhite_03.jsp


RoundProtection: UV capsule, TZin50AS,

Semi-Spherical TiO2: UV capsule

TiO2, ZnO & Silica composite: TZin50AS

FillerTalcSericite/MicaBaSO4…

SensorialSilica

PMMAUrethaneNylon12

…

FunctionalUV protectVisual effectAbsorptionDelivery

ColorWhite pigmentColor pigment

PearlescentGlitters

Binder/Media


SUNSIL-TZin50AS, triple composite of Silica, TiO2 and ZnO

SUNSIL TZin50AS; Hydrophobic alkyl silane surface treated

External SiO2 coating

TiO2SiO2 bead

ZnO

AS coating

CompositionSiO2: 45-67%TiO2: 16-25%ZnO: 17-24 %Alkyl Silane: 6.0 Max.

SPF

Inorganic UV-filter (11.6%) Avg. SPF/

g

Sunclear-T40 9.4 0.8

Sunclear-Z50 5.8 0.5

Sunsil-ZnO-AS 8.9 0.8

SUNZNO-NAS 16.0 1.4

Zinc Oxide(T) 12.9 1.1

Zinc Oxide(B) 10.0 0.9

Sunsil-TZin50-AS 3.2 0.3

Sunsil-Tin40 2.5 0.2


UV-capsule 60 16.1 1.4

Nano TiO2(T) 26.9 2.3

Organic(8.7%)

Parsol 1789 7.5 0.9

Parsol MCX 11.3 1.3

Benzophenone-3 9.4 1.1

Tinsorb-M 5.6 0.6

Unit SPF is lower than UV capsule

But sensorial feeling is much better


UV capsule 60

Silica sol coating

Alkyl Silane surface treatment

20 nm TiO2

TiO2

TiO2

TiO2TiO2TiO2

TiO2

granulization

UV capsule 602~5㎛

TiO2

TiO2TiO2

TiO2

TiO2TiO2

TiO2

TiO2

TiO2

TiO2

CompositionTiO2 57%SiO2 38%AS 5%

Crystal Size20nm

Particle Size2~5 ㎛

Loss on drying4%

High SPF

Broad UVA & UVB protection

Good Touch & Feeling

Some degree of opacity substitute pigmentary TiO2


TiO2 size comparison

15nm, microfine TiO2

200nm, pigmentary TiO2 UV capsule 60


UV Capsule 60: High SPF

Ingredients % INCI Name

water 45.1 water

DPG 4.6 dipropylene glycol

1,3-BG 5.8 butylene glycol

Magnesium sulfate 0.6 magnesium sulfate

Methyl paraben 0.2 methyl paraben

Germall-115 0.1 imidazolidinyl urea

D-pantenol 0.6 panthenol

Kak-HL 3.5 hexyl laurate

KF-995 12.7 cyclomethicone

DC-9041 3.5 dimethicone and dimethicone cross polymer

KSG-16 1.2 dimethicone vinyldimethicone cross polymer and dimethicone

UV filters 11.6

Sunsil-130SC 0.6 silica and dimethicone

SunPMMA 0.6 polymethyl Methacrylate

KF-6017 5.8 PEG-10 dimethicone

Abil EM-90 2.3 cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone

Benton 38 0.9 quaternium-18 hectorite

Propyl paraben 0.1 propyl paraben

Fragrance 0.3 fragrance

Tested Formulation(W/Si) Test Result

Unit SPF: 1.4/g

higher than ultrafine Zinc Oxides from market

Although not as high as ultrafine TiO2 from Tayca

SPF

Inorganic UV-filter (11.6%) Avg. SPF/

g

Sunclear-T40 9.4 0.8

Sunclear-Z50 5.8 0.5

Sunsil-ZnO-AS 8.9 0.8

SUNZNO-NAS 16.0 1.4

Zinc Oxide(T) 12.9 1.1

Zinc Oxide(B) 10.0 0.9

Sunsil-TZin50-AS 3.2 0.3



UV-capsule 60 16.1 1.4

Nano TiO2(T) 26.9 2.3

Organic(8.7%)

Parsol 1789 7.5 0.9

Parsol MCX 11.3 1.3

Benzophenone-3 9.4 1.1

Tinsorb-M 5.6 0.6


UV Capsule 60: Broad UV protection

Only UV capsule 10% TiO2 5.2% + Zinc Oxide 10%

Ideal for a high SPF & PA makeup,

especially desirable in Asian market


UV capsule 60

P

• Test condition: TiO2 mixed with Vaseline, after 3 days indoors

• UV capsule 60 shows much better photo-stability compared to other nano size TiO2

M A

• Samples (left) showed relatively good photo-stability among

commercial TiO2

• These have common surface treatment, i.e., either silica or

alkyl silane, which are known as the best coating agents

• UV capsule 60 is coated with both silica and alkyl silane up to

40% to guarantee perfect compatibility and photo-stability

• UV Capsule60 has equal SPF boosting effect compared to

other nano TiO2

Photo stability of UV capsule 60


Aluminum oxide is one of the most common coating material for TiO2

BMDBM forms a complex with Al3+ salts from TiO2 coatings

The amount of BMDBM decreases

Weakening of the UVA protection

Avobenzone/BMDBM compatibility


Avobenzone/BMDBM compatibility

O/WPerfect

W/OExcellent

Kemira M170 Alumina, Dimethicone

1 Alumina, Triethoxycaprylylsilane

2. UVCapsule60

Silica, Triethoxycaprylylsilane

3. Silica, Triethoxycaprylylsilane

4. Silica, Methicone

5. Alumina, Sodium Hexametaphsophate, PVP

6. Aluminum Hydroxide, Dimethicone/Methicone Copolymer

7. Hydrated Silica, Dimethicone/MethiconeCopolymer, Aluminum Hydroxide

8. Triethoxycaprylylsilane

W/O Foirmula

INCI

A D-Water To 100

P-M 0.2

NaCl 1

BG 5

B Abil EM 90 2

Dub DIS 10

Dub VCI 20 11

Bees Wax 1

Parsol MCX 5

Parsol 1789 0.7

C TiO2 8

Finsolv TPP 5.6

Emalex ss5050k 0.4

D Fragrance 0.2

V-E Acetate 0.1

W/O Formula Test ResultLot Start End Temp Dosage Remain 냉장대비 실온대비

#01 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.54845℃ 0.7 0.364 -33.57

#02 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.58345℃ 0.7 0.442 -24.19

#03 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.66245℃ 0.7 0.654 -1.21

2005-06-29 RT 0.7 0.645 -2.5745℃ 0.7 0.641 -3.17 -0.62

#04 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.65545℃ 0.7 0.657 -0.3

2005-06-29 RT 0.7 0.64 -2.2945℃ 0.7 0.667 1.83 4.05

#05 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.71845℃ 0.7 0.705 -1.81

2005-06-29 RT 0.7 0.69 -3.945℃ 0.7 0.728 1.39 5.51

#06 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.34245℃ 0.7 0.331 -3.21

2005-06-29 RT 0.7 0.33 -3.5145℃ 0.7 - -

#07 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.53345℃ 0.7 0.351 -34.14

#08 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.61545℃ 0.7 0.455 -26.01

#09 2005-04-14 2005-05-03 4℃ 0.7 0.69745℃ 0.7 0.673 -3.44

2005-06-29 RT 0.7 0.66945℃ 0.7 0.659 -5.45 -1.49

UVCapsule 60

BMDBM

2006.9.1 r&d center - baz...

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