196304 desert magazine 1963 april

8/14/2019 196304 Desert Magazine 1963 April

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MAGAZINE of the SOUTHWEST

4 0 cExploring

SouthernUtah's

W I L D E R N E S S W O N D E R L A N D. . . b y f a m i l y c a r . . . w i t h ab a c k c o u n t r y g u i d e . . . b y s ig h t-s e e r b u s . . . o n a " t a g -a l o n g "'trip . . . running the rivers . . .50 , 000 SQUARE M ILES OF IN-CREDIBLE LANDSCAPEl

T R I P S -LOCALES


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Open April 1 to Novembfollow theZuni Rainbow Godto the Ranch

S L E E P I N GR A I N B O W T O U R S

will take you to the CathedralValleys as we did Joe andJoyce Muench (see story in thisissue), or we can take YQIJon one of t hese 9 other one-daytrips from our modern guest ranch to: CAPITOL REEF NATIONAL MONUMENT

CIRCLE CLIFFS GOBLIN VALLEYDESERT PARADISE FLATSFOREST ON EARTH" RITE FORFREE FOLDER

Lurt and Alice Knee, licensed guides and owners of the Sleeping Rainbow Guest Ranch, with otheir four-wheel-drive cars at the head of the Capitol Gorge and at the turn-off to their Photo by Josef MuTHE LOFTY HENRY MOUNTAINS THE COLO

THE BIG STEEPLE THE SAN RAFAEL SWELL AND STANTALUS BASIN ACQUARIUS PLATEAU AND THE "HIG

SLEEPING RAINBOWGUEST RANCH

V ia Box 93Torrey, Utah


3/44

LETTERSFROM OUR READERSMojave Memories . . .To the Editor: Your recent stories on theMojave Desert were most enjoyable. Wedid so hope to go back to that country thiswinterto Pinto Basin where the humming-birds will practically let you pet them. TheBasin was so warm and quiet. Please nevertell me that someone has settled there.

JESSIE WIRTHarrisonville,Mo.O ld Bottles . . .To the Editor: We read with great joyAdele Reed's article on collecting old bot-tles (Feb. DESERT). We are new at thishobby, but no other pastime has given usas much enjoyment.

As with all hobbies, however, there arealways some people who tend to spoil thefun. A case in point is the recent use ofbulldozers in yirginia City to unearth bot-tles. While this simplifies matters, it doescut-down on the number of bottles thatcould be found in this area by future col-lectors.

The same sort of thing has happened tothe rockhound hobby. If it keeps up, soonthere will be many places marked "offlimits" to the bottle hunter.PAULINE LEEKINGFallon, Nev.

Concerned Conservationist . . .To the Editor: Why must DESERT takesuch an interest in politics and the moneyand land-grabbing habits of most people?Can't you just write about interesting areasto visit, and leave the land-grabbing realestate agencies out of it? You say you lovethe desert. Does that mean you want tosee it irrigated so that more people can liveout there? Chunk by chunk, I've seen moreand more of the Southwest become a hous-ing development.

On page 15 of your November issue is athrilling picture of "High Desert Country"complete with Joshua trees. For a minuteI thought the article would be entitled"Let's Preserve our Joshua Trees." But, noit was"Your Personal Slice of the PublicDomain." In other words "Let's Exploitthe Desert." You, for one, should bepreaching conservation of our deserts.R. N. FRANCAVIGLIASan Mateo, Calif.Varmint Callers . . .To the Editor: We read with dismay yourFebruary report on the pseudo-sportsmen("Varmint Callers") who lure unsuspectingpredators to their death with an artificialdistress call.

If these people must hunt predators, letthem do so in a fair manner: that is hand-to-hand.We practically hand-feed a family ofdesert foxes in a certain locale. If ever theVarmint Callers invade this territory, theywill be greeted with some well-aimed lead.

Youryear-aroundadventure center...In, around and all directions from Phoenix and the Valley of the Sun, there'sfun, adventure and vacation variety unlimited. Canyon lakes and streams,Indian ruins, historic forts and ghost towns, the Apache Trail and SuperstitionMountain, the colorful desert. A photographer's paradise, a rockhound's delight.Golf at its best (34 courses). Excellent highways add to your enjoyment ofthis excitingly different vacationland. Plan your fun trip now.

sun-tanwarm P h o e n i xFor color literature and "Places to Stay," write Valleyof the Sun Visitors Bureau, Phoenix, Arizona. Dept. D-2

M A T H E R - T I G H THARDTOP MODELWinter or Summer you'll find real com-

fort in this sharp, rugged hardtop model.The removable hardtop is all steel withsliding side windows. Rear doors fit"dutch style" Interior has a tough vinylheadliner and is doubly protected withsteel crossbows. It is fully lockable, withexternal locks.Hardtop or Soft To p- t he DATSUNPATROL's big 135 H.P. Waterproof En-gine packs the BIG POWER to go any-where .. . do anything. For WORK orPLAY, don't miss the DATSUN PATROL ^. . . it's the mos" advanced design 4-wheeldrive vehicle in the world I

D A T S U N PATROL 4-WHEELDRIVEP I C K U P *1,596 deUp to 1Ton Payload

Send me literature on the Catsuit Patrol and name of nearestdealer.Mail to:NISSAN MOTOR CORP. IN U. S. A., DEPT. DM4137 E.Alondra Blvd., Gardena, Calif. PICKUP D HARD-TOP PARTOL

N a m eAddress.City _Sta te -

DATSUN PATROL Deale r Franchises areavailable Write fordetails.


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LVfabu lourRed Roclc Coun t ry ^ Modern & Complete Tourist -

Facilities -N jRoads to Suit Every Traveler-"!V* > L

's VACATIOHThe scope and variety of San Juan County'snatural setting makes it unique in all theh idbid wild canyonworld

I - ^

sueari

outstanding sceoic attractions await you in San Juan Coylnty inuhe soutriT*"--.eastern corner of Utajh:j SanJuan River

* Monument-Valley* Natural Bridges

Rainbow Bridge* ,'T3^eedles

setting makes it uqhere, side-by-side, are wild canyonrivers, redrock fantasia,and alpine mountains . . .you'll thrill to anunspoiled West. .. you'llbe captivated by Indianruins and modern-dayIndians in colorful dress.. . and it is so easy foryo u to see and enjoy it allthis year . . . many guideservices operate out ofMexican Hat, Bluff,Blanding and Monticello,taking you in comfort andsafety to the farthestcorners of the Americanwilderness . . . or you cantour in your own car,camping away from thecrowds, or spendingrestful nights in ourmodern motels . . .

"Write todaySAH JUBH COUHTH COmittlSSlOttttJOnTlCELLO) UTflH


5/44

CONTENTSVolume 26

This Month's CoverAndre DeDienes, one of Hollywood's topphotographers (he specializes in glamor gir lstill shots) brings us a delicate picture ofMonument Val ley . "As for th is photo,"writes DeDienes, "what else can I sayexcept that Monument Valley is one of thewonders of the worldand so easy tovisit s ince its main road is now paved."

3 Letters From Our ReadersDesert scene comment and criticism.

7 Ccmyonlcmds RockhoundingBy ROSS and MAXINE MUSSELMAN. You'never run out of rocks in the Moab area.7 Markagunt Fossils, Agates

By PARLEY DALLEY. A tr ip into th e high-lands east of Cedar City where the mineralrewardsand spectacular vistasare many.8 New Ideas for Desert Living

By DAN LEE. The April products' parade.10 Roadside Geology

By EUGENE D. FOUSHEE. The author takesyou on a 150-mile highway tour of thewor ld 's grandest geologyfrom MonumentVal ley nor th to Arches Nat ional Monument.12 Desert GothicBy JOYCE MUENCH. A one-day v is i t -w ithbackcountry guideto the strange creationsin the Cathedral Valleys.

16 To Poncho House RuinBy CHORAL PEPPER. A "tag-along" trip(follo w a guide in your own vehicle) to aprehistoric ruin in the Four Corners country.

18 Lovely, Lonely LandBy WARD J. ROYLANCE. More ways andmeans to personally enjoy southern Utah's50,000 square miles of wilderness.

24 Memories of the PagahritBy ALBERT R. LYMAN. A pioneer of theSan Juan country remembers a lake-that-is-no-more.

28 Black-Billed American MagpieBy EDMUND C. JAEGER. All about theGreat Basin's restless flyabout.

31 Canyonlands ControversyBy D. JAMES CANN ON . Should the Canyon-lands be exploited for their mineral wealthor tourism potentialor both?

41 New Southwest BooksBy CHARLES E. SHELTON. Reviews of threeinteresting publications.

42 Desert DetoursBy OREN ARNO LD. This month the sage-

CATARACT CANYON OF THE COLORADO RIVER. Photo by Parker HamilWE ALL DREAM of far-away places where the only sights are those a land untouched by the hand of man, where the only sounds are murmur ings of nature, where the only reality is a pure and artless man-earth relationship. To survive in today's complex urban society, mmust do more than dreamhe must go into such places where the spcan be recharged. Hap pily, the wilderness wo nderlan d of southe rn Uis less than two-days driving distance for 80 percent of the people wwill read this magazine. And a southern Utah vacation is within raof every pocketbo ok. W e urge you to "sh op " for the partic ula r wildness outing that best suits your taste from the various guide serviguest ranch, and chamber of commerce advertisements appearing in tmagazine. DESERT unqualifyingly recommends every one of these decated and sincere private entrepreneurs and fr iendly communities to yFrom one Utah visit will spring lifetime friendships for both the laand i ts people.

DESERT is publishe d mo nthly by Desert Magazine, Inc., Palm Desert, Calif. Second Class Postage p aid at Palm Desert, Calif.,addit ional m ailing offices under Act of March 3, 1879. T itle registered No . 358865 in U.S. Patent Office, and contents copyrig htby Desert Magaz ine, Inc. Unsolicited manuscripts and photog raphs cannot be returne d or ackno wledg ed unless full r etur n poenclosed. Permission to reprodu ce conte nls must be secured from the editor in wri tin g. SUBSCRIPTION PRICE: $45 0 per year (1in the U.S.; $5 elsewhere. Allow five weeks for chanqe of address, and be sure to send the old as well as new address.To subscribe, or to give o DESERT gift subscription, use the coupon on page 41.

NATIONAL ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES:Arden E. Roney & Associates580 South San Vicente Blvd., Los Angeles 48, California. Phone: 651-3930NEW YORK41 E. 42nd St. YU 6-0625 SAN FRANCISCO 31355 Market St. UN 1-717CHICAGO 135 E. Wack er Dr. ST 2-8196 DETROIT 266 58 Book Bldg. WO 1-606EUGENE L. C O N R O T T O , editor & publisherAddress Correspondence To:


6/44

For those who know the River.... . . and for those who would like to know it, there is nowavailable a definitive picture-story of the mighty ColoradoRiver.

T o r r e n t i n t h e D e s e r tby Weston and Jeanne LeeIn 220 pages of text, maps and photographs119 pages

of magnificent landscapes in full color-TORRENT IN THEDESERT traces the incredible Colorado from its headwatershigh in the Rockies to its delta in the Gulf of California.

River runners and armchair travelers alike will treasurethis book.PUBLISHED BY NORTHLAND PRESS

$20.00 at your b ookstore, or write: NORTHLAND PRESS, BOX N, FLAGSTAFF, ARIZONA

* WONDERLAND EXPEDITIONS * WONDERLAND EXPEDITIONS WONDERLAND EXPEDITIONS WONDERLAND EXPEDITIONS WONDERLAND EXPEDITIONS * WONDERLAND EXPEDITIONS WONDE

ESCALANTE - GLEN CANYONBOATING EXPEDITION

RAINBOW BRIDGE GREGORY BRIDGESix Full Days

FARE: $100 (includes foodand guide service)

E X P L O R E :

OTHER EXPEDITIONS AVAILABLE INESCALANTE COUNTRYEscalante River CanyonKaiparowits PlateauWaterpocket FoldAquarius PlateauGlen Canyon

River, pack and hiking trips conducteddu ring all seasons. Full Time Profes-sional Guide Service.

Hole-in-the-RockLower Esccdante CanyonRuess A rch (Davis Gulch)Hidden PassageTwilight CanyonMusic TempleLower San Juan CanyonForbidden Cany on (RainbowBridge)Indian ruins

Many enchanting dreamlands wi l lbe visited . . . deep gorges, serenecanyons, cliff dwellings . . . swim-ming and sunbathing . . . exploring. . . boating . . . camping. ALL TRIPS ARE LIMITED TO 12GUESTS . . . FOR MORE ENJOY-MENT.

SEND NOW FOR OUR DETAILED ESCALANTECOUNTRY EXPEDITION LITERATURE.

SBaiMI

WONDERLANDEXPEDITIONS

KEN SLEIGHT, RIVER GUIDE6575 South MainBountiful, Utah


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TOG R E E N R I V E RThorn

horn coral, crinoid stems.2. Lang VaU*y: agate, rasper, petrified wood and bone.3. Upper CtmribouM Tow m: petrified wood and bone.4. and S. Yaliow Cat Mining Ancn petrified wood, agate,agate poeudomorphs afler barile.5. Floy: agate.7. La Sal Mountain*: petrified wood and bone, septaricmnodules.I. Brown's HoUc petrified bone.

U T A H B O N A N Z A S

ROCKHOUNDING fN THECANYONLANDS

Fossil MolluskAreos--FFossil Leoves LAgote Areas ATouchstone JRoute of Trip

oSftLT LAKE (ITY

P A R O W A N

CEDAR BREAKSNAT'L.MON.:.fev?

By ROSS and MAXINE MUSSELMANM iisselman's Rock Shop, MoabT HE DOOR opens and in comesanother rockhound. He is easyto spot . . . a gleam in his eye,a slight stoop in his shoulders, afriendly grin (rockhounds are alwaysfriendly) .

They come by camper, by jeep, bylimo usine , by family car, by b us."I heir first q uestion is always, " W he recan we find rocks?" Moab lies in adeep valley almost surrounded by1000-foot cliffs, so rocks are no prob-lem, but these people are fussy. Theyw.mt certain kinds of rocks . . . cut-ting material or specimens worthy ofa display case.

If they are camping, we tell themto pull into the back 40, and thencome in and talk i t over. The MoabChamber of Commerce, our rock shopand the local Points and Pebbles Clubwork together to be of special assist-ance to rockhou nds. Information isfreely given concerning collectingareas. T he C anyonlan ds is a vastcountry. Much of it virgin territoryfoi rock collectors. It is in the main

entirely unexp lored . Only a fewspots have been thoroughly workedover by rapacious commercial inter-ests.The Points and Pebbles Club hasa special committee to give guide ser-vice to visiting rock clubs. Cl ub of-ficials can write to the Moab Club,and arrangements will be made forguided field trips.All of the rock locations indicatedon the map above are on public do-main and open to collecting. How-ever, in the Y ellow C at and Floyareas, there are working mines andoil properties which should not betrespassed upon. These are plain tosee and no effort has been made topinpoint them on the map. Usuallypermission may be obtained to searchdumps at mines which are not aban-doned, but snitching a few samplesfrom a stock pile in frowned upon inuranium country. Here, as in all col-lecting areas, common sense and

courtesy are all that are required tosee the rockhound through.

MARKAGUNT FOSSAND AGATEBy PARLEY DALL

The Rock Club, Cedar CT HIS TRIP begins a t Cedar CThe route follows Highway to the brink of the MarkagPlateau, crosses the plateau to head of the middle fork of ParowCanyon and on to Parow an. Evmile of the route is packed withmuch of interest as well as scebeauty that it may be likened tocorridor through a great museum natural history with all the exhibin place.This tr ip may be taken as a whor in parts, depending on the t iavailable and the special interests the indi vidu al or gro up. Fossil mlusks and specimens of agate are sin abundance along the way to be tained by short hikes from the hiway.

In passing the portals of Coal Cyon going east, you literally enthe great land mass known as Markagunt Plateau, the westernmof Utah's high plateaus. On either sof the canyon mouth are two abutt


8/44

P L A N T O V I S I TM E X I C A N H A T , U T A H

GATEWAY TO FABULOUSMONUMENT VALLEY

with nearest complete facilities Cafe, Lounges, Motel, and TradingPost Clothing and Curio Store Service Stations Automotive Garage Navajo Rugs and Jewelry Film and Travel Supplies Airstrips, Hangar, and Tiedowns Overnight Travel Trailer andCamper facilities Pick-up and Delivery Service,T-Z AirstripHEADQUARTERS FORUNUSUAL SCENIC TRIPSCanyon Country Scenic Tours offerstrips in special four wheel drivevehicles to nearly inaccessible pointsof interest.CENTER OF A GREATSCENIC CIRCLE Nearby are Monument Valley, thefamed Goosenecks of the San Juan,the Natural Bridges, Mexican HatMonument, the Garden of theGods, Muley Point, Cedar Mesa,Poncho House Ruin, and manymore.For additional information write

MEXICAN HATCHAMBER OF COMMERCEMEXICAN HAT, UTAH

R I V E R T R I P SU lNUwAUK NATIONAL MONUMENT."Weekly Specials," 4-days, leavingevery Thursday during June. Bestriver trip at the lowest cost.G R E Y - D E S O L A T I O N C A N .

Two trips, 6-days each. Early June.Magnificent scenery.M I D D L E F O R KOF THESALMON RIVER.

June 30, July 7, 14, 21. Six-dayboat trips. Best trout, salmonfishing.C A T A R A C T C A N Y O N .April 21,June 2.6-days. $150each.U L t N CANYON.

June 2, 10. 6-days. $95each.C O L U M B I A R IVERAug. 17. 6-days. $210each.. . . Phis Many Other Trips. ForInformation, Brochure, WRITE:

HATCHRiver Expeditions Co., Inc.

VERNAL UTAHFor over 30 years, the West's bestProfessional Guide Service

NEW TOURSSOUTHEASTERN UTAH

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A M E R I C A ' S L A S T W I L D E R N E S S F R O N T I E RRound-Trip from Salt Lake CityALL-EXPENSESIX DAYS (FIVE NIGHTS)JEEP TRIPSAir-Conditioned Buses

Every turn gives a vista of green-clad plateaus or flaming cliffs.Monument Valley and Capitol Reef National Monument, ArchesNational Monument, Dead Horse Point, Fisher Towers, Moab(Uranium Capital), Natural Bridges, Goosenecks of the San Juan;Navajo, Apache & Hopi Indians; Kayenta


9/44

MARKET BASKETPHOTO CO.P. O. Box2830, SanDiego 12, Calif.Low priced photofinishing; film,cameras and Kodachromeprocessing.

Developing & 12 jumbo prints ^ _ ._from Kodacolor film !pi.*txDeveloping & 12 jumbo prints fromKodacoior f i lm inc luding a * - __new roll of Kodacolor Ipi.oOKodacolor reprints jumbo, . .each IOC8m m Movie Processing, . A _color * I -05Other photo prices comparably low

Send for free mailing envelopeMARKET BASKET PHOTO CO.P. O. Box2830, SanDiego 12, Calif.

OPALS andSAPPHIRESDirect From AustraliaThis Month's Best Buy

S P E C I A L O F F E R1 Ounce Andamooka Opal 1 OunceCoober Pedy Opal 1 Ounce Opal ChipsALL 3 OUNCES $18Free Airm ailiend personal cheque, international moneyirder, bank dra ft. Free 16 page list of all\ustralian Gemstones.

AUSTRALIAN GEM T RADI NG CO.294 Little Collins StreetMELBOURNE, C.I. AUSTRALIA

E X P L O R E U N D E R G R O U N DYears ahead transistor loca-tors. Detect gold, si lver ,coins, relics.Write for free information toCurt Fisher, UndergroundExplorations, Box 793, Dept.3A, Menlo Park, California.

A H O B B Y T H A T P A Y SKENT FROST

C A N Y O N L A N D SJEEP TOURSThe Famous Utah Needles Country, Salt Creek,Angel Arch, Castle Arch. Historical MormonTrail of 1880, Lake Powell Shore Line Area,Conyqnlands Country: Including Land ofStanding Rocks, Grand View Point, UpheavalDome and Monument Canyon.

$25 per day per personFor further information and reservations write:Kent and Fern Frost, Canyonlands Tours295 Blue Mt. Drive Monticello, Utah

row, permanently lubricated sealed ballbearing arbor. Use either oil or water aslubricant for the blade while cutting rocks.The weight of the entire saw, including en-

gine, table cutting blade, and polishingwheel, is only 16 pounds. A built-on carry-ing handle makes transportation easy. Myguess is that for the hobbyist who doesn'twant to lug home hundreds of pounds ofworthless specimens, the new Star FieldSaw would make a good tool. With it, youcan sample the best rocks in the field.Make sure they're worth toting home. Fuelconsumption should be about a pint perhour of running time. Priced at $129.50,from: Star Portable Field Saw, P. O. Box702, 4010 So. 8th, Moorehead, Minnesota.

\ !i V

Handy Map MeasurerThis new pencil-shaped item looks verypractical for those who frequently use roadmaps, sea charts, or airline charts. In oneend is a marking pencil; in the other, atiny wheel that calibrates distances. Here 'show it works: First, lay the transparentplastic over your map. Trace your routewith the marker end of pencil. Reverse thepencil and run the tiny roller wheel alongyour route. Take a reading where the indicat-or stops, match it to the scale on your mapand you instantly learn the total mileage toyour destination. Called the Radix MapMeasurer, the device is available in miles,or kilometers. The price is a low $1.95.From Radix Co. of America, Box 584,Great Neck, N. Y.

Bicycle CarrierThe new Bike-Toter is a carrying standthat clamps to the rear of your car ortruck bumper, securing your bicycle rigidlyin place while traveling. Tota l weight ofthe Bike Toter is less than 9 pounds. Ahandy accessory for those who like to takealong a bicycle on those desert vacations.Price not announced. Available from Bike

Want to go skin-diving off some subeach? Or maybe you'd prefer relabeside some inviting stream or visquaint Old Mexico? Perhaps you knoroad somewhere you'd like to followthe end. It's all thesame with an AirstrLand Yacht a personal highway cruoutfitted down to the smallest luxurdetail for limitless road voyaging . . .gbeds, bathroom, hot and cold waterfrigeration, heat and light independenoutside sources wherever you go fnight, aweek, or a mon th. Airstream LYachting means real travel independe no time-tables, tickets, packing.just tow your Airstream lightly behind car and follow your travel wh ims wherthey urge you to go. Yes, it's theexcibetter way to travel here in North Ameor anywhere in theworld.

write for interesting free booklet"World At Your Doorstep"AIRSTREAM IN


10/44

S O U T H E R Nj U T A HI BY FAMILY CARROADS IDEG E O L O G Y inT E X T B O O KC O U N T R Y

By EUGENE D. FOUSHEE

THE AUTHOR SHOWS HIS DAUGHTER, MARYBETH, THE FINE POINTS OF UTAH'S GEOLOGYABOUT THE AUTHOR: Gene Foushee,owner-operator of the Recapture CourtMotel in Bluff, is a graduate in geologyfrom the University of North Carolina.Recently, as part of his motel operation, he

SO U T H E A S T E R N U T A H ' S l a n d -scape is positively inde cen t! Itlies nakeddevoid of the usual"clothing" of soil, grasses, and treesworn by more discreet parts of theearth's crust. But, the adva ntage isthis: here in our country the layeredcrust of the earth is bent, broken andclearly exposed for all to climb over,take pictures of, and marvel over.Here you can "read" the story of cre-ation.It was not earth-shattering cata-clysmic convulsions that m ade thedeep ragged canyons of the ColoradoPlateau. It was orderly processes ofnaturerunning water , wind. And itwas not so much a matter of destruc-tionthe cutting-down of mountains

as it was of constructiondepositingformations one atop the other .Happily, this same erosion has cutthrough the layers, exposing them toview, giving the world its grandestcross-section of geologic time. T h e150 miles from M on um en t Valley toArches National Monument is truly"geology textboo k" country. As youdrive northward, you enter and re-enter various layers of the giganticsandstone plateau that is Southeast-ern Utah.A . (Initial is keyed to map atright.) At the start of your trip arethe bold monu ments of Mo num entValley, which are composed of DeChelly sandstone. The thin veneeracross the top of the buttes is Moen-copi shale and Shinarump sand-stone. Harry Goulding's Lodge andthe M onum ent Val ley Tr iba l Parkheadquarters are located below theDeChelly sandstone in the OrganRock shales. (My wife calls it "reddir t .") From the head quarters ob-servatory one can see th e pink ercolors in the washes in the valley to

the east. The pink sandy rock is theCedar Mesa sandstone, which ispoorly represented here, but whichforms the Cedar Mesa Plateau northof Mexican Hat, as well as the weirderosional features of the Needlescountry. Comb Ridge can be seen farto the east.B . Halgaito (Navajo: "valley ofwhite water") Wash runs through abroad valley at about Milepost 13 (13miles from the Arizona line) . This isthe type location (a "type location"

is that area where a formation ormem ber of a formation tuas first rec-ognized and studied; usually the for-

location) for the Halgaito member othe Cu tler formation. Most all thred siltstones and clays that are visiblin this area are part of the HalgaitoDouglas Mesa, capped with CedaMesa sandstone, is seen to the westThe hil l going out on the east is Ricolimestone. For the nex t 25 miles, thhighway closely follows the contacbetween Halg aito ( the uppe r) andRico (the lower) forma tions.C. Three-quarters of a mile beyondM ilepo st 18, an d 200 feet off throad, you have a perfect view of classic igneous plug, Alhambra Rockwith two dikes rad iatin g from it. Imust be remembered that when thplug and dikes were slowly oozintheir way upw ard from the mo lten

rock below, the level we see todaywas deeply buried in the overlyingformations. Perhaps the plug nevereach ed the surface. If it ha d, iwould have been a volcano. Riclimestone surrounds the plug.D . The Texas Zinc Uranium Milis located in the colorful red clays othe Halgaito. The sett lement of Mexican Hat is in the upper part of thRico. The yellow splattered on thface of the cliff at the north end othe San Juan River bridge is not sulfur deposit. It is all that re ma in

of a runaway truck that was loadedwith sulfur.E. I strongly recommend that yodrive the 15 miles from U tah 47 tMuley Point. Although half of thadistance is gravel road, the tremendous view is worth every bump onthe road. Muley Point, from a top thCedar Mesa sandstone, looks dowinto the Goosenecks of the San JuanRiver, looks into Monument Valleyto the south, and surveys all of thRico-capped plains across which thSan Ju an has cut. T he world-famouGoosenecks are a classic example oincised meanders.F. From Mileposts 27 to 28 argood views of the Mexican Hat syncline formations as they bend upward and become part of the Rapleanticline. (Folds in the surface of thearth rock can occur when theslayers are subjected to pressure fromthe sides, much like a stack orugs would wrinkle if pressure werapplied from one side; the crests othese wrinkles are "anticlines," and

troughs between the wrinkles ar"synclines.") The nearby walls andmonuments, as well as the monument


11/44

GOOSENECKS OF THE SAN JU AN RIVER, AS SEEN FROM MULEY POIN T. Photo by Frank Jensen.Mexican Hat rock, consist of Hal-gaito capped with Cedar Mesa sand-stone. The Mexican Hat synclineproduced the first commercial oil inUtah in 1907. The geologic structurewas so clearly seen that it naturallyinvited dril l ing.

G. T he highway loops over andaround the north-end of the Rapleeanticline, working its way to the crestof the Lime Ridge anticline at Mile-post 35. For the next few miles thehighway runs exactly on the gray Ricolimestone which forms the curvingsurface of the Lime Ridge anticline.There are few places it is possible tosee such a perfect example of an anti-cline, and here it is possible to driveover the top of one! My wife says:"Big deal!"

There are several parking placesbetween Mileposts 38 and 39 whereyou can stop to see the red Halgaitoand the pinkish Cedar Mesa sand-stone, which suddenly isn't sand-stone! The rocks are mostly gypsum!Just a few miles to the northwest isthe Cedar Mesa sandstone formingthe cliffs over the Halgaito, but herewhere the sandstone cliffs should be,there are only the ro und ed hum pscomposed mostly of gypsum . He re isanother dramatic textbook exampleof what is known as a facies change.This means that at the same timeand on the same level, two differ-ent formations were being depositedin this case, sandstone in one area,

Rockhounds will probably enjoyfinding the white and rose-coloredchert as well as honeycomb gypsum inthis area. M ilepos t 39 very closelymarks the top of the Cedar Mesagypsum facies.The massive DeChelly sandstone ofMonument Valley has thinned to apoint where it can only be found herewi th considerable search. C o m bWash and the great Comb Ridgemonocline (a monoc line is a bendingof the earth's mist in only one direc-tion) are immediately to the east.The colorful Chinle shale of PaintedDesert fame forms most of the CombW ash . T hi s cliff face is a form idab lebarrier extending 80 miles from theAbajo Mountains south to Kayenta.It is breached only by the San JuanRiver and Chinle Wash and iscrossed in four places by roads.H. Three-quarters of a mile pastMilepost 39, through the notch onthe ridge, is a good parking place.From here, a 200-foot climb will putyou on top of the ridge. D on 't for-get to take a camera! Significant geo-logic features can be pointed-out forhours from this vantage point.The face of Comb Ridge is Win-gate sandstone. The white sandstoneon the back (east) side is Navajo,the same sandstone familiar to GlenCanyon river travelers and visitors

to Zion National Park. The Kayentaformation is an indistinctiv e sand-

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12/44

S O U T H E R Nj U T A H

I I WITH A GUIDE

D E S E R TG O T H I CB y J O Y C E M U E N C HPhotos by Josef MuenchI USED to feel as Gertrude Stein didof a rose; that a Desert is a Desertis a Desert. After having a glimpseinto earth's past, I am no longer sosure. Time and time again, therehave been great seas, sometimes offresh water, and then again, salt,where the deserts now spread. Des-ert mountains have been transitoryas well; rising and disappearing likemushroom growths. Some, latelyrisen, are still growing, while otherssink out of sight, if we can believethe geologist, although the movementsare too slow to be measured by thenaked eye. It may be only by chancethat we have our present ranges, trap-ping moisture shipped in from thePacific, to be dropped on wildflowerbeds, foothills, spreading plateausand forested slopes. Will the West,one asks, be without these rain-mak-ers in some future geologic day, andso became one vast, arid waste?

Now the Cathedral Valleys of south-central Utah are true desert and weres o , way back when. Th eir speciallandscaping effects were started withlayers of windblow n sand, presseddown and hardened into stone, cover-ABOUT THE AUTHOR: The writer-pho-tographer team of Joyce and Josef Muenchis well-known to readers of this publication.Residents of Santa Barbara, the Muenchshave traveled the length and breadth of theWest, capturing in words and pictures the

ed by more layers, and finally dug-up to be shaped, fairly recently, intomassive stone edifices. They are ac-cessible today by a journey back intoTime, through scenery well calcula-ted to prepare the visitor for someunusual climax.The Cathedrals aren't on maps ofjust a few years ago. Even on thelatest maps they are indicated rathervaguely as "Cathedral Valley." Alongwith other placenames, like the Gob-lins, Circle Cliffs, Standing Rock Ba-s i n , they have appeared suddenly, asthough some new process were beingused to bring out invisible writing.New roads, and pavement on olderones, manage to keep ahead of thecartographers in this great 20,000square mile corner of the state, whichlooked very blank until recently.The through road, Utah State 24,is now paved for all but a 15-milestretch, from its western terminus atSigurd, on U.S. 89, to the eastern endof U.S. 6 and 50, near the town ofGreenriver. By this time, the finalbit may be black-topped, providingan all-weather route 168 m iles ofamazing variety. I don't know really,of a comparable stretch, mixingmountains and desert, plateaus andcanyons, spiced with little towns andwild open miles. There is even anational monu ment the Capitol

Reef through which it runs, andevery so often, there is a junctionleading off into some totally differ-ent world, like the Cathedrals, whereyou must have a special car and adesert-wise driver-guide. WorthenJackson, in the mountain valley townof Fremont, is one, and Lurt andAlice Knee, at the Sleeping RainbowGuest Ranch are licensed guides.Last August, Alice Knee was driv-ing the big station wagon which car-ried a party of us via the lower des-ert approach. Armed with just anotebook, I watched three otherguests at the Ranch through the per-ilous task of getting their equipmentand themselves into the roomy ve-hicle. While half of my mind wason the fancy that they looked ratherlike science-fiction creatures, missha-pen by the bulges which cameras andtripods, gadget-bags, and field glassesdistort the human figure, the otherhalf was on the day ahead of us. Itwas several years since I had seen theCathedrals. Would they be as won-derful as I remembered, or had I let

the rose-tinted spectacles of memoryexaggerate? Once the car was rolling

motel units look off to the HenMountains, I was caught up again the dazzling color, the overpowerisize and boldness of the landscapeA few miles east of the Capitol ReNational Monument boundary, former State 24, Alice stopped t

car. We all climbed out to look the oyster beds lying along the shoder of the road. The elevation heis close to a mile above the distaocean, yet we were confronted banks made up of thousands upthousands of discarded saltwater sshells. Their presence hints broadat the vast ages during which tnow arid landscape must have beunder some ancient sea.Within sight of the stranded crtaceans, the still-growing HenMountains push massive peaks abothe Caineville Mesas, level shelves ranged on either side of the FremoRiver.As we turned north onto a fowheel-drive road, our driver poinout Factory Butte, appearing off the right, a great gray ghost in TDead World. Companion to tCaineville Mesas, but a separate etity, 1500 feet high, it wears the saflowing skirts, wrinkled with tafrom the heavy Mesa Verde Sastone capping . Years ago, a visi

named it for the resemblance tofactory he had worked in at ProvIf he hadn't called it that, someoelse would have. Smoke-grimbulky and solid, it is the epitoof all factories, seen from this westeside. On the south, Factory Buttpediment pinches out to scarcdoor-width, and from the north no more than a finger-thick columtoppin g the dusty slopes. Below, shills of the lifeless gray are ferruwith arrowstraight furrows in a scious bad land, without a stick vegetation.Moving on, we could feel the wheels sink into the soft banded cof the Pinto Hills over which now climbed, leaving deep ruts purple and green, gray and whripples. They repeat, in a differkey, the more ancient Chinle colof the Sleeping Rainbow, for whthe whole region is nam ed. Na tuseems to be trying to outdo hersin being different at every turn the road. An artist in our party claimed that he felt we were riffl

through the pages of a book demostrating various techniques of


13/44

TEMPLES OF THE SU N, M O O N , AND STARS IN THE LOWER CATHE

charcoal drawing, the Pinto Hills inpastel watercolor. Later he pointedout a landscape among the cathedralsdone boldly with knife-strokes, whileanother resembled a sharp-cut wood-block, reproduced in color.Anything as large as a cathedralshould be hard to hide, but naturehas done it. Un til we came to acliff-edge, there was no hint of them,yet I knew there were not just one,but three whole complexes of them,tucked away in separate chambers,down in the airy well-lighted "base-ment" of Thousand Lake Mountain.The first "room" is the South Des-ert, with The Steeple standing likeone of Italy's medieval campaniles.From the sun-baked pavement of itsPiazza to the blunted spire-tip, theformation must measure 800 feet.When the Knees took us there thevery first time, long before a roadhad been bulldozed out, we had

through confusing and narrow canyoncorridors. Joe caught a pale youngmoon peering over the tower's shoul-der, as the late sunlight spread a richpatina on the pinkish ribs, almost asthough The Steeple were blushing,for this was probably the first timeit had ever posed for a portrait.Nowadays, the dugway followsdown into the basin so that thefacade of the nearby Cathedral maybe seen in proper relationship ofchurch and tower. I had not over-painted, in recollection, the aestheticpleasure of viewing those strong ver-tical lines, the saturated colors, or thewonderful shaping of the stone mass.From the South Desert, we droveup the dugway to the Lower Cathe-dralsto the Temples of the Sun,Moon and Stars, each big enough to

make our car and its occupants verysmall. Cliffs around these monoliths

the slow deliberate formation, their consequent erosion. I rafelt, as we heard each one nathat I was back in the Old Wand, Baedecker in hand, marvat European masterpieces of atecture.This irregular basin has manybayments and alcoves, as well asespecially huge sand dune, covwith colorful rocksportable bitthe rainbow . A 15-foot hill of sum, unlike anything even Aknew of elsewhere, is made uthousands of tiny pieces of "isinglas" window panes, jumblegether and sparkling when thestrikes its many facets.

It is in the third basin whereUpper Cathedrals stand, that thsemblance to churches is the appa rent. A long line, called Walls of Jericho, surges throughvalley, which is 500 feet higher


14/44

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green, like tarnished copper, theywere ages in the buildin g. Orn ateweathering has shaped statues set inniches. Filligree decorations adornevery exposed cornice. Robed saints,hooded monks, angels and cherabimsare not hard to find in the confusionof forms. The very makeup of thestone lends itself to the slightlyrounded Gothic Arch, stylized repre-sentation of human fingers, t i p stouching in the reverent pose ofprayer.True, the elongated "doors," car-ved in vertical embroidery from roofto basin floor, will never open to

admit a congregation, but there arealcoves, roomy chapels without roofs,through which desert incense drifts,a pungent fragrance burned by thesun in censors of desert vegetation.In these quiet spots, meditationseems natu ral. The silence is com-plete save for the soft organ musicof wind on fretted sandstone pipes.These cathedrals, like any others, arenever qu ite finished. The abrasivetools of sand-edged wind work con-tinuously, shaping new figures, re-fining details of old ones. Comeback again in a thousand years, andyou may find the whole style changed.More modern lines, already foreshad-owed in formations behind the Wallsof Jericho, may then have been im-posed upon the Gothic.As the afternoon began to wane,we started up, over the shoulders ofThousand Lake Mountain, exchang-ing with bewildering rapidity thearoma of pine for the sun-baked fra-grance of the desert, and lifting to9000 feet of elevation for great pan-oramas among highland lakes and

grassy platforms, high above the des-ert basins. We could see the wholepattern of Cathedral walls, the dark

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15/44

SOUTH DESERT, AS SEEN FROM THOUSAND LAKE MOUNTAIN72 which winds finally into the highvalley of the Fremont River. Thenpavement of State 24 ticks off eachof the comfortable, friendly littleMormon communities of Loa, Bick-nell and Torrey, and into the Capi-tol Reef National Monument.

It wasn't until we were sitting inpost-prandial leisure in the SleepingRainbow Guest Ranch with Lurt andAlice answering some of the ques-

tions visitors always save up for thistime, that I thought again of myearly morning fear of disappoint-ment. Not having mentioned itearlier, I didn't need now to retract,except to myself. I though again ofGertrude Stein and wondered if she,confronted by the amazing countrywe had just seen, might not havegiven us a new pronouncement. Isa desert a desert or the yesterday ortomorrow of a mountain? / / /w

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16/44

S O U T H E R NU T A H

III ON A "TAG-ALONG" TRIP

o f RUINS,ROCKS, andR O U T E S

By CHORAL PEPPERPhotos by lack Pepper

ET 'S DO it on our own," saidwe, fully cognizant of an agon-izing three days and nightsendured by a friend who had oncebeen lost in this desolate terrain ."We'll just follow the trails as mark-ed on the map and see what turnsup."We knew little about the widecountry that is Monument Valley.Although we'd traveled its newthoroughfare b e f o r e , we weren'taware that its spur roads had neverbeen reliably nor fully mapped. Butwe found out.Cutting from the highway in ournew International Scout, Jack and Iwith our 11-year-old son, Trent, bar-

reled through scarlet sands, shallowstreams and boulder-strewn crevices.At twilight we were still barreling.The scenery was spectacular, butwhere were the ancient ruins androckhounding thrills we'd anticipa-ted?Where washes were indicated onthe map, we found mountains. Wherewe hoped to discover ruins, terrain

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: This is ChoralPepper's third article for DESERT, havingauthored "Three Sketches of Eastern Nev-ada" in our Sept. '62 issue, and "ScubaDiving in Lake Mead" in Dec. '62. Mrs.

grew thick with junipe r. Th e dayhad rewarding moments, of course.Merely being in this grand countryis a bonus. But even though we re-turned to our motel at Mexican Hatwithout getting lost, as an adventurethe day was a disappointment.The next morning, we tried a dif-ferent tack. Driving our own vehicle,we tagged-along behind a Hunt Bro-thers guided tour heading south andeast to Poncho House Ruin . Th eHuntsJim and Emerywere bornand raised on their father's early tra-ding post in the valley below PonchoHouse, and Navajo is their secondlanguage. Jim owns and operates theSan Juan Motel and Trading Post atMexican Hat, and together with hisbrother conducts a series of half-dayand full-day tours throughout thiscountry.

The "tag-along" idea was new toboth of usbut it has obvious poten-tial. Many peop le have four-wheel-drive vehicles and the urge to pokearound in the more remote cornersof southern Utah; but are not famil-iar with the country. They preferto travel in their own cars, but arewise enough to realize that in thisred-rock mazeland, getting lost likelywill have serious consequences.Jim and Emery Hunt are SouthernUtah boosters first, businessmen sec-ond. What would they charge for atag-along trip? Nothing! "As long asthe tourists aren't putting us out ofour way, and as long as they are will-ing to go where we go, stop whenwe stop, and return when we return,we see no reason to charge them,"Jim stated. "They would be respon-sible for their own lunch."Not only was this the Hunts' firsttag-along tour, it was the first outing

for their newly acquired "Desert Rat,"a gas - powered platform - on - wheelsthat can crawl and claw its way overvirtually any terrain. The Hunts areplanning to use the Desert Rat to ex-tend the range of their motorized ex-plorations and to ferry passengers tosuch attractions as Poncho HouseRuins from the po int where thejeeps must be parked.After traveling a few miles throughland which appeared endlessly flatand rocky, a slight rise suddenly ex-posed us to the marvels of Monu-

men t Valley. Like ghostly skylinesof some ancient era, the fantastic

ed from the flat red earth . Beyonpanoramic view of the King on Throne, Brigham's Tomb, and towing Eagle Rock, distant outlinesthe Twin Mitten Buttes waveredthe clear dry air. Ou r caravan sped for a photo from this spectacvantage, and then turned left oa vaguely tread-marked trail.I had hoped to record the roto Garnet Ridge for DESERT reers, but after fording a stream, puing through jungles of reed altwo dry river beds and jolting omiles of arroyos which all looalike, I decided that guiding is the Indians . . . or the Hunts.At last Jim stopped his car walked back to ours. "See Old MEars up ahead?" He indicated a tant pair of cliffs. "That's the olandmark I had to go by whebegan looking for Garnet Ridge."Some years ago a family of Najos brought a handful of garnetsJim's trading post and asked if twere worth anything. Jim dihave any particular market for thbut he knew enough about garnetrecognize the superior color and qity of these. More than the garthemselves, however, he was in

ested in learning where they wfound. Each time he asked, the swers were evasive. Because life moslowly in Navajoland, Jim took time, trading the Indians merchandfor the garnets they brought, gradually piecing together bits offormation. At last the key wcame: Old Mule Ears!Scouting the area in his jeep, searched for the type of igneous rain likely to produce these gstones. Even then , the glittering garnets almost eluded him. Mi

into a melee of marble, flint, something that floresces like williite, the tiny garnets are difficultisolate unless one explores on haand knees.Although this area is a rich celor oil and uranium, its past inacsibility and isolation have left it exploited by rockhounds. We foquantities of petrified wood, geowith diamondlike surprises insand beautiful nodules. Mineral ploration is currently criss-cross

(he terrain with myriads of jeep traso those who venture forth alone


17/44

OF GARNETS

PONCHO HOUSE RUINsafe to depend upon your own tracksto act as an Ariadne's thread back tosafety.After filling our pockets with gar-nets, we cut a newtrail toward ChinleWash, stopping enroute for a gour-met campfire feast produced by Em-ery. To add local color to his incom-parable Dutch Oven cookery, we de-fied an age-old Navajo superstitionby camping near an abandonedhogan.Barren of its clay covering, onlythe naked logs of the hogan's foun-dation remained as an unwritten epi-taph to its long-departed soul. To theNavajos it was chen-dee "jinxed."Navajos fear the dead. Should a fam-ily member perish in his hogan, ahole is pushed through the north wallto emit the bad spirt, and then thehogan is vacated forevermore. Evenits precious wood foundation is neverused again.

After lunch we inaugurated theDesert Rat. Terrifying at first, withfive of us piled aboard where onlytwo should ride, we clung to one an-other as the machine's powerful tirespounded over brush and boulder. Atthe edge of the plateau overlookingChinlee Wash, Jim ordered us offand, to our amazement, simply push-ed the machine over the cliff. Skil-fully it scaled the vertical wall, land-ing right-side-up in the wash below.Down we scrambled to reclaim ourseats, and zip swifty through marshand stream to Poncho House Ruin.

Discovered by the Wetherill bro-thers in 1892, Poncho House's 160

ledge. This is one of the oldestbutleast visitedruins in the Four Cor-ners region. Until modern vandalscorrupted it, it was in a fine state ofpreservation, but even so, one sectionlocated on a separate and higherledge has only been reached by onewhite man and appears in excellentcondition.Little is known of Poncho House,and practically nothing hasbeen pub-

lished about it. Its masonry consistsof irregularly shaped stones set intogreat masses of inaccurately coursedadobe mortar. It appears to consid-erably pre-date the renowned Beta-takin located near Kayenta on thewestern edge of Monument Valley.Potsherds from the early developmen-tal-Pueblo phase as well as black-on-white and red-on-black typical oflater periods indicate that PonchoHouse was occupied through manygenerations. It is believed to havebeen constructed around 600 A.D.Painted high on the cliff wall aretwo enormous concentric designs, onewhite, theother red, resembling bull's-eyes. We've seen this design repro-duced on Pueblo I pottery of the Ana-sazi. The wall was also embellishedwith stylized figures of dancing menall over-sized and conspicuouslydecorative rather than meaningfulin the order of petroglyphs.Why the peace-loving early tribeswho occupied this area for so longsuddenly disappeared around 1200A.D. is an archeological mystery.Some believe it due to a 20-yeardrou th, while others imagine that

tives, theApaches, arrived abouttime and drove the puebloans their homes. Those who aagainst the latter point out thatAnasazi (Navajo name forearly Basketmaker-Pueblo Indiwith their established agriculhigh standard of living and kledge of the country, must shave been in finer combat condthan the infiltrating strangers.A consideration which escmany is that of inbreeding. Bthe Anasazi moved into cliffho(a move which indicates fear otack) they hunted and interminwith neighboring clans. Aftereral hundred years of cliff-dwehowever, the results of inevitablbreeding could well have producgreatly inferior breed of peopleBy whatever m eans, peacefunot, the fact that many ancientblo myths are incorporated intoNavajo religion suggests a clos

lationship somewhere in the pasfar as strife is concerned, discould have developed among theasazi peoples to such an extent they finally extirpated themselvThe three days we planned fovacation in Monument Valleynearly enough time provedthing beyond a doubt. Thosetour this country for the sheer pure of its magnificent scenery misclimatic act. The best scenes liyond the Navajos' newly paved down in the valleys haunted vestiges of extinct peoples wblood throbbed in veins as vit


18/44

L o v e l y , L o n e l y L a n dD As anyone familar with southern Utah will agree, whatsets the region apart from the rest of the world is its incrediblelandscape50,000 square miles of forested plateaus, moun-tain - rimmed valleys, deserts, canyons, cliffs, rivers, lakes,island ranges, and countless smaller formations eroded intoevery conceivable shape and painted in all the colors of therainbow To know Southern Utah is to fall in love with it, forit has a special charm that casts a unique spell This article,written especially for DESERT readers by the assistant direc-to r of the Utah Tourist and Publicity Council, details the waysand means of seeing and enjoying this unconquerable cornerof the Western f ront ier

By WARD J. ROYLANCE

A S MORE people visit Z i o n,Bryce Canyon and Grand Can-yon, and come to love thecountry typified by these easily-ac-cessible and well-advertised attrac-tions, they become enchanted by thatmysterious, hazy, beckoning landstretching away into the distancethe forested highlands towering highabove Zion's rocky temples, the paint-ed wilderness east of Bryce, the tierupon tier of multicolored cliffs risingnorthward in great steps from GrandCanyon.

They must answer the irresistiblecall of this strange land and discoverits wonderful secrets for themselves.Few are ever disappointed with whatthey find.In spite of the hundreds of thou-sands of visitors to Zion, Bryce, Arch-e s, Capitol Reef, and Cedar Breaks,most of southern Utah remains alonely land. Only slightly more than100,000 people reside permanently inits 14 counties, and nearly all ofthem live in towns and cities nearU . S . Highways 89 and 91. Probably9 0 % of southern Utah's 50,000 squaremiles is completely uninhabited ex-cept for the occasional livestock manor prospector.This loneliness helps give the re-gion its special charm . Every visitor

bus voyaging through new lands. Fewpeople want to change this primevalcondition any more than is absolutelynecessarybut change has come tosouthern Utah, and it will continueto come.First, major access highways androads are being improved. U.S. High-way 89 is being almost completely re-built from Kanab northward to San-pete Valley. U.S. 91 (Interstate 15)is an excellent superhighway all the730 miles from Los Angeles to SaltLake City. New paved highways giveaccess to Capitol Reef, Cedar Breaks,Glen Canyon Dam, Arches, and Mon-ument Valley. Goblin Valley is onlyeight miles from a paved road.

On fairly good dirt roads, sedanscan be driven across most of theplateaus and to Kodachrome Flats,Grosvenor Arch, San Rafael Swell,Dead Horse and Grandview points,Natural Bridges, Hole-in-the-Rock,Hovenweep, and into many otherscenic areaseven to the edge of theNeedles. With a pickup truck, themore adventurous can drive to LandsEnd, overlooking a vast expanse ofthe Canyonlands region, or into theCircle Cliffs.A four-wheel-drive vehicle, of course,

will reach to the more remote spotssuch as Land of Standing Rocks,

junction of the Green and Coloraand Upheaval Dome. There are foutstanding attractions in southUtah which cannot be reached iwheeled vehicle today; the few ceptions to this rule include the dside-canyons of the Green, Coloraand San Juan rivers.

Other recent changes are Miss66 improvements in facilitiesnational parks and monumewhere campgrounds are being expded and renewed, visitor centers cstructed, highways rebuilt. In national forests, roads and campfacilities are being improved unthe Operation Outdoors program.Utah's State Park 8c RecreatCommission is developing visfacilities at a number of new sparks in southern Utah. Among thare Dixie State Park (Snow Canyonear St. George; Dead Horse PoState Park near Moab; Green RiState Park; Palisade State Park nSterling; Brigham Young HomeSt. Geprge; and Jacob Hamblin Hoat Santa Clara. Oth er state parksin various stages of acquisitionplanning.P r i v a t e enterprise improvm

mainly are limited to the citiestowns where a number of new mohave been built and older ones mernized. There is still a sore lackguest ranches and resorts in the athough it does contain a few outsding facilities of this type. Somethem oiler high quality accommotions, others are not particularly nworthy for their standards. Sevguest ranches provide tour serviceaddition to meals and lodging.One of the most notable trendssouthern Utah travel is the great

crease in boating on the GreenColorado rivers. During thedecade, tens of thousands of boahave traversed beautiful Glen Cyon, both downstream from Hiteupstream from Kane Creek (crossof the Fathers) . Boat traffic onsection of the Colorado is increarapidly every year and will reachtronomical totals as Lake Powell ctinues to rise behind Glen CanDam.In contrast, boating on the Juan has been suspended tempora

because of water impoundmentstream at Navajo Dam. Until


19/44

>% *

***. *

into that river's rugged gorge withinthe next year or two, boating on theSan Juan probably will remain sus-pended.T he status of future boating onthe lower Green, between Green-river City and the junction with theColorado, is uncertain at this timebecause spring and summer water-

Zion Canyo n. The greatest single attraction in southern Utah, Zion NPark plays host each year to more than 600,000 visitors. While attendthe park is growing rapidly, the visitor growth rale of lesser-known areas Capitol Reef and Arches national monum ents is even more specPhoto is by Western and Jeanne Lee, from their recently published"Torrent in the Desert" (Northland Press, Flagstaff).flow will be determined by upstreamcontrol at Flaming Gorge Damandthe amount of water to be released

there will depend on spring runoIn 1962, during the Canyon CountFriendship Cruise (May) and RivApril, 1963 / Desert Magazine /


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U T A HThe Fabulous Landfor hunting, fishing and retirementis just being discov ered. Proper-ties of all kinds are available from2'/2 acres to 1000 and the pricesare low. Write for complete list-ing sheets. No obligation.D. W. CORRY REAL ESTATE CO.Box 903 Cedar City. Utah

M e t a l D e t e c t o r sBOUGHT - SOLD - TRADEDDealer ForDetectron, Fisher, Goldak,Raylron, GeoFinder,MetrotechRepair ServiceBILL'S SERVICE CENTER15502 So. Paramount Blvd.

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P A G E , A R I Z . , W E L C O M E SALL AMERICA TO VISIT

GLEN CANYON DAMThe West's Greatest Attraction

PAGEa beautiful, modern planned cityHasCOMPLETE TOURIST FACILITIESEnjoy the best of Arizona's colorful, scenic wonders sur-rounding Page. Shifting shades of every hue, striking colorsthat are found only in our vacationland. Plan your trip to in-clude exploring the fabulous side-canyons of Lake Powell.

Page and Glen Canyon Dam are on U.S. Hwy 89north fromFlagstaff, south from Zion National ParkFOR MORE INFORMATION WR ITE:Page Chamber of Comm erce, Box 1375, Page, Arizona.

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Marathon (June) more than 7boats and 3000 boaters ran this stion of the Green to the junctithen upstream on the Colorado Moab. If conditions permit in 19(and there is hope that they wiit is likely that even more will pticipate in these notable events.The great majority of visitors ssouthern Utah from the comfort their private automobiles or froviewpoints within walking d istan

of a parking area. Thi s applies most persons visiting such popuattractions as Zion, Bryce CanyCapitol Reef, Cedar Breaks, GCanyon Dam, Arches, and MonumValleyall accessible by paved roEventually, within the next decaor so, most of the outstanding attrtions in southern Uta h will be reachvia paved highways. But today soof them cannotand many peopunderstandably, refuse to drive thexpensive new cars off the pavemeFor these people, and for those wwould rather let someone else do driving, southern Utah offers a nuber of sightseeing alternatives. Itpossible to take tours in large small sightseeing buses, in four-whedrive vehicles, or in station wagof various sizes. Besides vehicutours, some guide services offer patrips, hiking trips, boating trips, ascenic aerial flights.Utah Parks Company features expense bus tours from Cedar CityZion, Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyand Cedar Breaks, with optional stover privileges. Regular tours ranin length from two to five days, aprices from $25 for the two-day tto about $80 for five days (includtransportation, meals, and lodginThese tours may be arranged throutravel agents everywhere. Connectican be made at Cedar City for bairline, and train service. Utah Patours are available generally frearly June to early September.Station wagon and jeep tours be arranged to scores of out-of-t

way points of remarkable scenic terest. In recent years this typetour has become extremely popuand a dozen or so franchisee! guiconduct thousands of visitors eyear into southern Utah's painwilderness. Reservations should made as far in advance as possibThough the regular guided tour sson ordinarily extends from MayOctober, it is possible to make scial arrangements for other times.These tours vary in length fra few hours to 10 days or two wee

depending on individual arranmen ts and area to be visited. For


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ample, a guest ranch near CapitolReef offers a variety of one-day all-expense tours from base headquarters,traveling in large, comfortable stationwagons; a person staying for a weekat the ranch might take a differenttour each day. Other operators offerwilderness adventure tours lasting upto 10 days or longer, during whichthe party might not meet anothersoul. Usually all camping equipmentand food is furnished by the guide,with the customer bringing only hisclothes, camera, and personal items.Passengers truly "rough-it"cookingover open fires and sleeping out un-der the stars.

Most vehicle tours originate fromguest ranches, lodges or motels, orfrom towns where lodging facilitiesare available.Rates vary with different kinds oftours. For example, one-day tours bystation wagon or small bus averageabout $10 per person. Overnight

camping tours by jeep usually cost$25 per day per person, includingfood, camping equipment, transpor-tation , and guide service. Some op-erators require a minimum of threeor four in the party or an equivalentfare if fewer than that take the tour.Arrangements can be made forpickup at convenient airports or rail-road and highway stops, for personswho do not drive their own cars tothe guide's base headqu arters (whichis usually on or near a paved road).Example of jeep and station wagontours include the following:From Monticello or Blanding: T othe Needles, Salt Creek, Elk Ridge,Hole-in-the-Rock (east side), DeadHorse and Grandview points, Stand-ing Rocks, Capitol Reef, MonumentValley, Hovenweep, and other pointsin southeastern Utah.From Mexican Hat or Bluff: To theGreat Goosenecks, Valley (Garden)of the Gods, Poncho House Ruin,Four Corners, Natural Bridges, Mu-

ley Point, Monument Valley.From Moab: To Dead Horse andGrandview points, Shafer Trail, Cas-tle Valley, Fisher Towers, Arches Na-tional Mo num ent, Colorado RiverCanyon, LaSal Mountains.From Capitol Reef and Fremont:To Capitol Reef, Cathedral and Gob-lin Valleys, Henry Mountains, Stand-ing Rocks, San Rafael Swell, Aquar-ius Plateau, Thousand Lake Moun-tain, Waterpocket Fold, Circle Cliffs,Hole-in-the-Rock, etc.From Gouldings (Monument Val-

COLOR PHOTO. FOLLOWING PAGE: GLEN CANYON DAMPHOTOGRAPH BY DENNIS HOLMES

In the early part of this year, the great dam in Glen Canyon begabacking-up Colorado River water. Lake Powelllocked-in by ftastic redrock wallswill reach 186 miles upstream from the damsite (see map on page 24), poking its watery fingers into a maof remote and rugged sidecanyons, some of which have never beeexplored by man. In the next decade, the Upper Colorado wbecome one of the most heavily boated waterways in the natio

. -

i .. --r

CAMPING AND BOATING AT FISH LAKE EAST OF RICHFIELD. Photo by Norman VanPe

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Custom Ma de Au to Sun Shades"Take the sizzle out of the Sun." Your car wagon up to 15 cooler. Blocks the sun's raand publ ic's gaze yet gives excel lent visibiand venti lation. Ideal for campers, traveleand every day dr iv ing. Greatly improves conditioning efficiency. Custom made for cand wagons 1955 thro ugh 1963. Easy to inswith enclosed simple instructions. Write Free catalogue and prices. Give make amodel, 2 or 4 door. Prompt Shipment. SidMfg. Co., Box 3537D, Temple, Texas.

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l l ' l I


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Valley, Tsegie-at-Tsosie, Great Goose-necks, Valley Rim, Poncho House,Copper Canyon.From Panguitch: To Capitol Reef,Escalante-Boulder country, EscalanteRiver canyons, Hole-in-the-Rock, Gob-lin Valley, Cathedral Valley.Utah is fortunate in the high qual-ity of its southern Utah vehicle guides.They are all well qualified, dedicated,enthusiastic, honest individuals wholove their work and the country inwhich they operate.In 1963, a new lecture tour serviceis being inaug urated by the well-known Gray Line Motor Tours sys-tem. Starting in early May, deluxebuses will leave Salt Lake City eachweek on six-day all-expense circletours that will include a large num-ber of the most outstanding attrac-tions in southern Utah. In order of

travel from Salt Lake, points to bevisited include Greenriver, DeadHorse Point, Moab, Arches, CastleValley and Fisher Towers, Monti-cello, Natural Bridges, Goosenecks,Mexican Hat, Monument Valley (aday's tour with Goulding), Kayenta,Glen Canyon, Bryce Canyon, Esca-lante, Aquarius Plateau, Capitol Reef(a day's tour of the area with Sleep-ing Rainbow T ours) , and re turn toSalt Lake City. Total length of theentire tour amounts to 1250 miles.Southern Utah's dozen vehicle touroperators are matched in number bythe area's river guides, who conductmany hundreds of adventurous tour-ists through Utah's spectacular can-yons every year.

River tours, like the jeep-bus-sta-tion wagon tours, offer real adventurein magnificent red-rock country athrilling experience available in few

other places, and one that is remembered throughout a lifetime. Riveguides are similar to their fellovehicle guides in being an especialldedicated, experienced group whare proud of their chosen calling.The nature of river tours is changing at the present time, because oLake Powell behind Glen CanyoDam. Heretofore, large rubber rafcarried the greatest number of tra

elers through Glen Canyon, floaing slowly along with the shallocurrent, permitting leisurely enjoyment of the country's grandeur. Soothere will be little or no current ithe canyon. Water will be deep anclear, and different boating craft wienter the pictu re. It is too early say exactly what the ultimate will bbut undoubtedly a wide variety oboats and rafts will continue to bused.

Memories of tkePagahritBy ALBERT R. LYMAN

The author, a resident ofBlanding, is the authorof the classic, "Voice of theIntangible," a semi-auto-biographical account ofhis boyhood in theSan Juan country.

THE great lake being formed behinGlen Canyon Dam is by no meanthe first or only body of fresh watin the redrock country of southern UtaIn December, 1879, four Mormon scoutLemuel H. Redd Sr., George Hobbs, GeorgMorrill and George Sevey, discovered large lake east of the Colorado Rivwhich does not exist today. The scouhad started from Hole-in-the-Rock to fina way for the San Juan pioneers to travto Montezuma. That large pioneer company passed by Pagahrit Lake in the lawinter of 1880, and reached what becamBluff City on the 6th of the followinApril. I passed the Pagah rit in my moth erarms.Very soon after settling in Bluff, thpeople there put cattle in the lake countrbut most of them removed their stock 1884, when the Piutes made such wantoslaughter of cattle after the fight at SoldiCrossing. My father held to this range util I began moving out our cattle in 190My first recollection of the Pagahrit datfrom May, 1891, when, as a boy of 11,began riding there with my father after hcattle. To me it was from the first a dlightful placeproviding such a sharp cotrast with its plant and animal life, to thbald rocks and sand stretching away froit in all directions. The lake had at ontime extended far up the box canyon the south, but the floods of the ages hadeposited their sediment, making the lakever shorter. In the years when I wthere, a green meadow extended up frothe south-end, and in it were two crystsprings, running in two streams to thlake. One of these springs bubbled frothe top of a little grassy knolla delightfplace where I used to sit and watch thleeches in the bottom. They were abothe size and shape of a 25c piece, bthey could stretch out four inches.The Pagahrit welcomed me in from thburning desert with joyous sights and sounand cooling breath from every living thinthe green groves, the grass, the flowerthe happy birds singing exultantly from th

trees and the willows. The gentle echof it came back to me from the gray clifenclosing the garden from the wild outsid


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As stated above, there is little orno boat travel on the SanJuan Riverat this time, and the status of boatingon the lower Green this spring is stillrather indefinite. However, guidesare m aking reservations for Glen Can-yon trips as usual. This magnificentsection of canyon country will con-tinue to be the most popular of all,and tour parties undoubtedly willgrow rapidly in number as the waterrises and more people learn aboutGlen Canyon's breathtaking scenery.Glen Canyon tours can be arrang-ed for varying lengths ranging fromseveral hours to seven days. Mostboating groups have entered the riverat Hite, taking four to seven days forthe leisurely 150-mile journey down-stream to Kane Creek (Crossing ofthe Fathers). As the lake rises,mak-ing feasible the use of larger boatsand motors, it is probable that the

time will be shortened somewhat formost people. Hite itself will be in-undated within a year or so, but newlaunching areas will be developed inthe vicinity before then.Cars may be driven to Hite, orcharter plane service is availablefrom Page. Some guides will trans-port boaters to Hite and meet themwith transportation at Kane Creek.There is still a choice of boats, in-

cluding rubber rafts, kayaks, jet-boats, outboards, and airboats. (Largeinboards have not been used in GlenCanyon because of shallow, siltywater, but undoubtedly they will beused extensively on Lake Powell inthe future.)It is also possible to make arrange-ments with several guides for tripsthrough Cataract Canyon, one ofroughest sections along the Colorado.

One of the major Glen Canguide services offers four-day toby jetboat from Hite to RainbBridge and return. Another ofpowerboat trips upstream from KCreek to Rainbow Bridge and oscenic andhistoric points in the GCanyon area. Trips can be arranfor periods varying from oneseven days. (It has been necessin the past to hike five miles fthe river to Rainbow Bridge,Lake Powellas it riseswill shothis hiking distance considerably.

Season for most trips through GCanyon in 1963 runs from mid-Ato late September. Sample jetbrates: $15 per hour (regardlessnumber of passengers) on short tr$30 perperson per day;$140 peson for seven-day trip. Typical for downstream raft tripsdays) is $25 per person per day,w

I looked at the clear deep lake, with itswind-driven ripples lapping against thecliff, and at the flocks of ducks, coots, anddivers swimming proudly or skimming overthe glistening surface. They struggledamong thick fringes of rushes along theshore, squawking their competition to thered-breasted blackbirds. In marshy spotsnearby, and where the water was shallow,cranes, herons and snipes waded withoutfear, for this had been their sanctuary fromthe ages, beyond the trails of predaciousman.And wonder of wonders: Pagahrit hadthree floating islands! Covered with tallrushes as sails on a ship, they sailed withevery change of the wind from one side

to the other of their little ocean. Thewater birds paddled along beside them, orrode as pirates on their own ship.On the neck of a solid rock promontoryextending out into the lake, stood thecrumbled walls of an ancient castle. Being75 feet above the waterline, it was protectedfrom approach on three sides by the sheersurface, and on the fourth side by a lime-stone battlement reaching down over therounding cliff. To the bows and arrows of700 years ago, it had been impregnable.On the sloping point of the rock, hand-holds and toe-holds had been cut to getdown to the water. It seemed certain that

a canoe had been tied at the bottom bywhich to cross the lake. Whether robber'sroost or retreat of honest toilers, at onetime the Pagahrit Castle had been the lastword in security.The Pagahrit was a sanctum sanatoriumfor the Piutes. To them we are indebtedfor the name, which means "standing water,"and is pronounced paw-GAH-rit. The echo-ing enchantment of the place appealed tothem as it appealed to us from the timewe began years later to camp there everyspring. They vested it with fantastic tra-ditions, for when things happened forwhich they could not account, they imag-ined causes which they gave as facts totheir children. They said the lake used

to have in it a monster which raised itshead above the surface in the stillness ofnight, and sang a bedeviling song to luremen within its reach.Lake Gulch in ancient times had beena deep boxcanyon, its bottom below thebed of the lake which was to be formed.At the north end of the lake-to-be, wasthe mouth of another boxcanyon calledEast Fork. This fork came from faraway among the bald rocks which shedrain as a tile roof, and it drained a widerterritory than was drained by Lake Gulch.The designers of the unusual creation had

apparently ordered a tremendous clburst in the upper reaches of the fork,sulting in a mighty torrent thick with sand drift. It poured at right angles intojungle of cottonwoods and black wilin Lake Gulch, and piled up a logof drift and sand more than 100 feet so high in fact that the mouth of thewas choked with the big delta, or plug,its water found a way over the solid above the new dam, making a beginfor the new lake.The second cataclysmic cloudburstcurred in 1915. It washed-out the ancbarrier, thus destroying the lake. In ghastly hole where the water hadimpounded, we found thick layers of m

ute fossil life which had been collecthere for ages. The bottom and sidethe dead lake were like a ponderous bwhich had been opened to view.With our modern huge equipmentmoving earth, it would be a simple mto rebuild the plug and once again cLake Pagahrit. The stream which fedlake is now rippling by to no purposesafe spillway could easily be cut overrock.The difficulty of approach to the Parit will be modified by the water beGlen Canyon Dam backing-up a longin Lower Lake Canyon, and a road ithe making about seven miles to the

There is also a landing strip on NDome to the southeast, and one at HCrossing in the opposite direction. Tare not so near as to spoil the charmthe lake's remoteness.When the big, hungry cavity is fwith clear water, the birds will come agthe rushes will grow and the floaislands will set sail as before. Theand ingenuity of man can vest the pwith all the rare charms of his imagtionfishing, boating, horseback trips, bty spots in the echoing forks of the canabove, and possibilities too many toWhen people in general are made to kabout it, they will come from far and

to enjoy the unique charm of sometdifferent to anything in that line now aable.


26/44

Cataract Canyon. A riverparty prepares to make camp inworld's most spectacular "bedroom" the multicolored canyons of theRiver. Photo by Weston and Jeanne Lee, from their recently pub-lished book, "Torrent in the Desert" (Northland Press, Flagstaff).special rates for family share-workplan and for explorer-style "rough-it" plan. Some guide rates are slight-ly lower than $25 per day.

There is no age limit for boatingtrips in Glen Canyon. Children asyoung as four years have taken them,as well as oldsters in their 80s. The re

is nothing strenuous about them,they are much safer than hightravel. Keep in min d, of course,young children probably wouldenjoy the longer trips.Besides vehicle and boat t

guides in southern Utah also scenic pack trips, hiking trips, s


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flights, and deer hunting pack tripsin the fall. Thescenic flights are cer-tain to become more popular aspeople learn that southern Utah isprobably the most spectacularly im-pressive aerial panorama on earth.Hiking and pack trips can be sched-uled into remote areas such as GrandGulch, Zion Narrows, Escalante Riv-er Canyon, The Needles, StandingRocks, and other primitive sectionswhere even the versatile jeep findstough going or is barred completely.

It is impossible, of course, to pro-phesy future events. Butsome proba-bilities have a good chance of becom-ing certainties. Among those whichpromise to have the most importanteffect on future recreation in south-ern Utah are the following:1. The creation of Lake Powell,which will eventually attract as manyas a million visitors to the GlenCan-yon area every yearby water, air,and overland on scenic highways.2. The probable creation of Can-yonlands National Park (seepage31)within the next year or two. As amajor national park, Canyonlandswill attract hundreds of thousandsof visitors within a short time afterdevelopment begins.3 . The possibility of a national

parkway across southern Utah withina decade or so,connecting or makingmore accessible the wonderful parksand other scenic wonders in that area.4. Completion of Interstate 70(Denver-Los Angeles) across south-ern Utah within the next few years,opening up primitive, breathtakinglyscenic San Rafael Swell and offeringeasier access to the whole southernpart of the state.5. Increased publicity on state, lo-cal, and private levels, informingmany more prospective visitors ofwhat awaits them in Southern Utah.6. Continuing improvements bythe federal government in nationalparks and monuments, national for-ests, and other public lands.7. Establishment and developmentof more state parks every year.8. Improvement of access highwaysand roads, which is continuing asfunds permit.General trends in recreation, na-tionally and regionally, also indicate

that southern Utah will continue togrow in importance as a recreationalarea. / / /

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IF THESOUTHWESTis your hobby, read all about it ! Sendfo r our free Southwest Book Catalog.Desert MagazinePalm Desert, Calif.

E V E R Y M O N D A YDURING THE 1963 SEASON

A Four-Day Motorboat Tourof Glen Canyon (Lake Powell)to Rainbow Natural Bridge

(Start at andreturn to Hite, Utah)Also - Day Trips Sightseeing RidesLITERATURE UPON REQUESTGLEN CANYON BOATING

WHITE CANYON, UTAH

WILD RIVERSThrilling boat trips arestill available on theJuan andColorado riversthrough the hearsoutheastern Utah's famed CANYONLANDS

ADVENTURE EVERY DAYONE-DAY SCENIC BOAT TRIPSavailable eday from April 1 to July 15. Float 33 excmiles down the rugged San Juan River, Bluff, Utah to Mexican Hat, through glodesert color and deep, wind ing gorges. Eswift water, small rapids, cliff dwellings, ancIndian petroglyphs, modern Indian camps, ucelled photo graph y. Modestly priced for faf u n . Rates: minimum 2 fares, $12.50 each.ADVENTURE EVERY FRIDATHREE-DAY CANYON VOYAGEstarting eFriday, April 5 to July 14. Adventure-paf loat t r ip through 90 miles of the SpectaSan Juan River canyonsfrom Bluff, UtahClay Crossing. All the thr i l ls of the one-daycursion plus dramatic passage throughGreat Goosenecks of the San Juanmany small rapidsthe weird experience of camin the deep, narrow river gorge. An epic exence for photographers and collectors of foan d gemstones. Priced to include return trportation to Bluff and all meals while onr iver. Minimum 3 fares at $87.00 each.ADVENTURE ALL SUMMERFrom early April to late September, WILD RIVEXPEDITIONS will schedule a series ofseven and eight day tr ips, on the San Juanthe Colorado rivers. These include the clSan Juan-Glen Canyon and the Glen Canyothe Colorado trips, both of which visit RainBridge. Two Cataract Canyon of the Colotr ips will be run; one in late April andduring July. Write for details.

Make reservations nowforyourvacation highlight.Write or phone, Kenny RossWILD RIVERS EXPEDITIONSP. O. Box 110 BLUFF, UTAH Ph.672-

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Complete with blade, motor and instructions . . . . $ 1 2 9 . 5 0(Vise and side-mounted sanding disc optional.)

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APACHE LANDBEAUTIFULSCENERYFISHINGHUNTINGFREECAMP GROUNDSMODERN CABINS

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The White Moun tain Apache Indians welcome y ou.Come and enjoy the wonderful m ountain climate,the b eautiful p rimitive scenery, clear, cold streamsand the best trout fishing in the Southwest.

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RECREATION ENTERPRISEP.O. BOX 218WHITER1VER, ARIZONA E S S S S S S !

UNDISCOVERED WEALTH!Buried loot, coins, silver, gold,jewelry, battle relics! TransistorM-SCOPE detects them all. Usedworld-wide by experienced explor-ers since 1932. Exciting! Reward-ing! Lightweight and supersensi-tive, the powerful M-SCOPE offersgreater depth penetration, over200 treasure - hunting days ofbattery life. Easy terms. Guaran-teed. Write for the FREE illustratedbooklet of fascinating customerexperiences.

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W E G R E A T B A S / N 'SR E S T L E S S F L Y A B O U TBy EDMUND C. JAEG

author of "DESERT WILDFLOWERS," "TH E CALIFORNIA DESE"OUR DESER T NEI GHB OR S, " "THE NOR TH AMER I C AN DES

O NCE THE traveler enters mid-dle Nevada and southern Utah,he finds himself in the terri-tory of the large and handsomeBlack-billed American Magpie (Picapica hudsonia). Much of this bird'sbody, including beak, head and tail,is covered by glossy black; contrast-ing white feathers adorn the abdo-men and upper parts of the wings. Abronzy irridescence adds a peculiarbeauty to the black plumage. Th enormal length is 17 or 18 inches, 9to 12 of which is a graduated taper-ing tail. The wings are short androunded, the feet stout, the beakthick, and the skin surrounding theeyes bare of feathers and black. Theflight, generally low, is very directand powerful.

This is one of the best-known birdsof the Great Basin. The principalplaces of abu ndance are meadows,treed bottomlands along creeks, andopen grasslands. The Black-billedMagpie is conspicuous because of theelegance of its form, its gracefulflight, its rare intelligence, and in-quisitive often clownish hab its.Herein it betrays its close relationshipto the crows and ravens. It may flyabout in pairs, but more often wesee it in small family flocks. In win-ter the flocks may be large. As arule magpies are non-migrants in thesouthern parts of their range.

The usual notes of this restlessare "clatters" or rapidly repe"checks," easy to recognize once are heard a few times. Duringseason of nesting (March to Mthese notes are augmented by smore musical ones with a plaiquality. When 15 to 20 mamove about in flocks, they are talkative, conversing in a connvariety of whines, soft whistlesdrawn-out "ma-ag" (which somuch like the first part of name).

At times they frequent the dweplaces of man, becoming not sociable birds but perhaps troublesome and thievishespewhen given encouragement. Syears ago on a farm near Toville I met a boy who had amagpie, an adult male which heraised from the time it left theental nest. He had taught it toand it lived mostly about the yard and vegetable garden whedid yeoman's service keepinggarden free of insect pests. Itscial delight was to fly down andat the neighbor children's bare It often inflicted rather severe wowith its big black beak, andsmall bareloot youngsters were frightened by its antics; so mucthat they often fled screaming they saw the bird fly towards t

I T R A I S E S IT L O W E R S

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The unique hydraulic m echanism w hich raisesthe camper top can be safely operated even bya small child. Locks prevent accidental lower-ing. The top is lowered quickly by the simpleturn of a valve.

The Alaskan Cam per is quickly transform edfrom its compact low silhouette on the road toroomy walk-in living quarters. Drive safely atany speed wi th min imum drag and sway .Moments later, enjoy the comfort and conven-

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196304 desert magazine 1963 april

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