1956

~ cA Book for the Australian Bushwafker 2f_

Experience the Magic Charm of TASMANIA

for Your Next Holiday I

THE OLD BRIDGE AT RICHMOND.

For Further Information and All Bookings Consult­

The Tasmanian Government Tourist and Immigration Department

254 COLLINS STREET. MELBOURNE

For Further Information and All Bookings Consult­SYDNEY . . . . . . . . . . Challis House, 4 Martin Place ADELAIDE . . . . . . . . . . 62a King William Street BRISBANE . . . . . . . . . . . . 194-196 Adelaide Street HOBART . . . . . . Corner Macquarie and Murray Streets LAUNCESTON .. Corner Paterson and St. John Streets DEVONPORT . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Stewart Street BURNIE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ." ." 21 Wilson Street

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- . . . . ·--·-----------·-·-·-·-.. ·---·--·-~ WALK

A .JOURNAL OF THE MELBOURNE BUSHWALKERS Number Seven 1956

• • • •-------•-•1--•-•-•---1111-1111-1111-IM-•-nll-•11-1111-

CONCERNING SEARCH PARTIES ...... ...... ...... Editorial ...... ...... 3

"CHRISTMAS" TREES ...... ...... . ........... _.,_ ...... ...... G. Christensen 4

THE WATERSHED OF THE JAMIESON ...... P. Becker 8

TOADSTOOLS ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... K. Bing 10

DAVID HALLY'S STORY ...... 15

"THE BUSH TRAGEDY" A.C.

WEATHER AND THE BUSHWALKER ............ G. Quinn ..... .

LIFE IN A DROVER'S CAMP ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... J. Morrison

MAPS ...... - ...................... ..

THE END OF THE TRACK: A. W. BURSTON, M.W.C.

THE LORE OF THE SNAKE ........... , ...... ...... ...... Opis

TALBOTVILLE ...................................................... F. Traill

OTHER WAYS INTO TALBOTVILLE ............ F. Pitt

MOUNTAIN MUSTER .............................................. ..

THE TRACKS THAT BECKON ...... ...... ...... ...... N. Richards

BOOKS FOR THE BUSHWALKER ...... ...... ...... ...... . .....

THE STRZLECKIS .................. -· ...... ...... ...... ...... ...... F. Halls

WALKS SECTION: Wild Dog Creek Road-Korumburra

Bullarton-Blue Mountain-Trentham Mt. Tanglefoot-Maroondah-Healesville ...... .. .... Tynong-Cornueopia-Nar Nar Goon _ ....

OUR FRONT COVER: By Alf. Cole •

Editor: NORMAN RICHARDS Telephone: WJ 9524.

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-----· . ·- ·-- ·--- ..... . . -------·-·-·---The Melbourne Bushwalkers

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President: BILL HORTON. Vice-Presidents:

NORM RICHARDS BETNA DRYDEN Hon. Treasurer: Hon. Secretary: HEINZ WOLFF. FRANK PITT.

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WIN. BENNETT GEOFF. CHRISTENSEN

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animals would be especially appropriate to such a body, and in some cases might easily avoid a prolonged search. Even though the Walking Club members are prepared to give of their time and talents without stint when an emergency arises, a proper review of the position by a com­petent authority could only be of advantage to both the searchers and the lost party. We believe that the Victoria Police have some ideas on this subject and trust that they will obtain the necessary terms of re· ference to implement a thoroughly considered, efficient scheme,

2.

EDITORIAL. CONCERNING SEARCH PARTIES.

The various bushwalking clubs, through their co-ordinating body, the Federation of Victorian Walking Clubs, have of recent years taken part in a number of searchers for persons lost in the bush. The initial organised effort in this direction was the participation of a party of twelve in a search on Wilson's Promontory, following the Easter of 1949; but the most recent search, that at Mt. Baw Baw in June of this year, involved literally hundreds of searchers for a period of ten days. The searchers comprised large numbers of Forestry Officials, local people, service personnel, Rover Scouts, Ski Club members, and Walking Club members, the total Walking Club personnel involved being of the order of two hundred, with a number of man-days spent in the field of up to one thousand. From these figures it will be seen that searches have become major operations, the impact of which cannot be ignored by the community.

By the very reason for their existence Walking Clubs are one of the best sources of recruits. Their members frequent the areas in which such searches inevitably take place, and, perhaps what is more to the point, take a keen interest in their surroundings. During an actual search they comprise the majority of the field parties and provide most of the field leaders. When the need arises their services are freely offered, and they would be the first to baulk at any suggestion of pecuniary payment; but initiation of a search poses a dilemma for the individual: to go or not to go? On one side he feels that his personal knowledge and abilities could be vital in saving a life, while on the other side are economic loss to himself and/or his employer, with maybe chaotic dislocation of the latter's activities, and dislocation of his own family and social commit­ments.

Nobody will deny the human necessity of conducting searches. While the bush is there people cannot be "controlled" from going into it-and those who get lost are, almost without exception, casual visitors to the fringes who accidentally wander farther and are least equipped to deal with the situation (an organised search has never been necessary for any walking club party).

In the present state of affairs some form of Governmental policy seems to be required to help the individual in his choice by adjudicating on a fair thing between employer and employee. Morally both might claim that the monetary cost should be borne by the community as a humani­tarian service. There might also be considered the possibility of some alternative scheme. It might be possible to concentrate a small number of Walking Club volunteers and offer them facilities to get extra train­ing, and so provide a smaller, but highly efficient body of searchers. Such a scheme would undoubtedly appeal to the younger, more robust members, just the ones who could best be spared from their employment. Alternatively, an army commando might be established with the specific peacetime task of coping with such emergencies. It would be good train­ing, and modern transport would make their services quickly available anywhere in Australia, The use of mechanical equipment or trained

3. (Opposite)

To people the world over Christmas means many possible things. But to children almost everywhere it would not be complete without Christmas trees, and those of us who have enjoyed an English Christmas no doubt have many recollections of lighted Christmas trees in front room windows.

To Australians, however, Christmas-time is holiday-time, bringing to Bushwalkers in particular the event of the year, an extended walk in some of our remote and still inaccessible mountain country. During such a Christmas trip, there is ample opportunity to observe and study our own 'Christmas Trees' and the natural beauty that goes with them.

It was with these thoughts in mind that I set off last December from Licola on my first long walk after several years overseas. Since leaving Australian shores, I had heard much discussion on the relative beauty of our native eucalypt and its forests, and the exotic trees of the English woods. Drab, monotonous, unchanging were some of the expressions I heard used about our eucalypts by both Australians and overseas visitors alike. But were they really justified? I was not so sure. Was it per­haps lack of real perception that evoked such comments? Anyway, here was a chance to revisit my old haunts and see for myself.

We spent the first night at Barkly Bridge on one of those occasions when a tent is hardly necessary. Gazing up at the stars twinkling through the slender branches of the manna gums came a thought - I couldn't do this under an oak or a sycamore, or a plane, or a chestnut tree because the foliage is so thick it might as well be an umbrella.

Next day we set off up Glencairn Creek, very nearly empty after a dry spring, but chief recollections here are not of the eucalypts, which were plentiful and varied, but of the lovely bushes of bursaria spinosa, sometimes known by its aboriginal name of kurwan. As well as being conspicuous by its feathery heads of creamy white flowers, this bush, which may grow to a small tree, has very tough wood which may be used for tool handles.

After passing Ron Sweetapple's homestead, our route took us to the base of the Bull Plain Spur, whose easy grade we followed for two days before coming out on the Great Dividing Range at The Knobs. In the absence of extensive views on the lower slopes, prime interest lay closer at hand in the wealth of native flowers. Most vivid memories are of blue pincushions, fringed lilies, and at higher altitudes the little brown bird orchid growing literally in sheets, together with the not-so-conspicuous, but very graceful, arthropodium. These and many other species attracted our attention as we climbed gradually through varying types of eucalypt forest. Outstanding however, particularly near Grimm's Saddle, were several areas of mountain grey gum, sometimes in almost pure stands, though more often mixed with peppermints. These lovely old trees rose surprisingly straight and clear in their smooth bark, mostly grey with blotches of darker colouring. An occasional patch of woollybutt was also traversed but these were not to be compared with, say, the woolly-butt forests of the Clear Hills, 4.

Most striking of all, however, were some of the glimpses seen from the higher portions of the spur away over the Macallister River to the Bennison Plains and Mt. Wellington in the blue distanc·e. These were set in a frame and foreground of back lighted 'gum tips' whose range of hues from gold to crimson I could not easily forget. Here was one answer to the critics of drab monotony.

As we approached the Knobs, the scene changed of course, and the truly alpine vegetation took command. This was the realm of the snow­gum with some associated scrub hakea (better seen than felt), but more particularly the alpine wildflowers. First to greet us were masses of yellow everlastings, brilliant in the summer sun. Clustered together on seemingly inhospitable red sandstone gravel, these were thriving, for such is the perversity of many of our native plants that the harsher the conditions the better they like them.

STAND OF MOUNTAIN ASH BEHIND BULGA PARK. -F. Halls.

On reaching the Great Dividing Range, we were in a veritable alpine garden with masses also of alpine crowea, small white everlastings, purple brachycome daisies, senecio, speedwell and most welcome of all the sky­blue sun orchids thicker than any I had seen. Two days we spent on the Divide from the Knobs to Mt. Clear, and then on to Magdala and Howitt. Everywhere it was the same story, but with variations as new species were encountered. Masses of violets, trigger plants, the pansy-like alpine goodenia, the alpine form of baeckia ramosissima hugging the rocks, the sweet smelling kunzea meulleri, alpine daisies, billy buttons and many others were there to delight the eye, and interspersed with

5.

Where'er You Walk ..

• . . begin at the Government Tourist Bureau whose expert advice and help will keep you on the right track !

272 COLLINS ST., MELBOURNE 6.

Tel. MF 0202

the rocky or grassy tops, forests of snow gums whose twisted and colour­ful trunks framed many a picture of distant vistas. Here I felt was a second answer to the critics, many of whom no doubt had never seen a snowgum. For colour, shape and character it has few equals here or abroad, and in natural surroundings such as there, untouched by the curse of bushfires, it truly holds pride of place.

One would have liked to linger in these regions but the trip was but half done, so on over the Plains to Howitt Hut we went. In this section, too, are to be found some wonderful specimens of snow gum, and one group of gnarled old characters to the west of the track near the northern en­trance to the plain comes vividly to mind. A hail and thunderstorm of extraordinary violence greeted our arrival at the hut, and in minutes the ground was inches deep in hailstones of one inch diameter and upwards. After the deafening roar on the hut's iron roof had ceased we could hear the painful bellowing of the cattle protesting at their unwarranted chas­tisement.

SNOWGUM. -K. Grant.

A two day visit to Bryce's Gorge and Falls followed, and here too was a spectacle to marvel at, particularly following the heavy rain which fell overnight. In regions more accessible to non-walkers these lovely falls in their rugged setting would no doubt be adorned with handrails, concrete steps, soft drink kiosks and car parks, and get a four star men­tion in the tourist guide. How thankful we were that at least this gem of mountain scenery remained as yet undisturbed.

Our stay on the tops was over and we left Howitt Hut for the Won­nangatta. Down through the snow gum forest, the woollybutts, the gums and the stringybarks to the shaded, grassy flats of the Dry River. All was peaceful as a hot midday sun coaxed from the peppermints that rich fresh aroma so characteristic of our eucalypt forests. Even the birds were quiet, but not so the cicadas, whose midday chorus droned from the tree tops.

7.

Our overnight stay at Wonnangatta Station was shared with the local inhabitants; the bat family that lived in the walls, and cat family that lived underneath. Much has been written of Wonnangatta and we rested here a day reliving events of its past till in the cool of the evening we sauntered down through the tall white manna gums to camp at the Hum­phrey crossing.

An early start was scheduled for the long dry climb over Wombat Spur and 9 a.m. saw us resting in the shade of the candlebarks with the hardest part of the climb behind. In the candlebarks also was an answer to the critics as trunk after trunk presented its crazy pattern of chequered colours. Grey, cream, green, brown, orange and crimson - all these colours were there in endless combinations and shapes - and behind the ever-changing views of mountain ranges.

Then came the steep descent into the Wongungarra and a very wel­come plunge in its clear pools with pebbly bottoms. The long trek down river to the end of the road was, however, an unpleasant anti-climax, where the often-sad results of human intervention were everywhere ap­parent with St. John's Wort, blackberries and bracken infesting burnt and broken ground. Some lovely clumps of hyacinth orchids, still strug­gling gamely, only added to our shame.

Our trip was over, and what had we learnt? Firstly, that our Vic­torian mountains contain scenery full of colour, and interest of magnifi­cent variety, still with us today as Nature made it, and there for all to enjoy who are prepared to go and seek. And secondly, we had learnt that these things have their price - the price is vigilance, to protect these treasures from the follies of man himself.

And what of the critics? Yes, we knew the answer to them too, for this was the lesson of OUR 'Christmas Trees' - beauty is where you seek it. -Geoff. Christensen.

THE WATERSHED OF THE JAMIESON.

One of Victoria's finest views is to be seen from the southern slopes of Mt. Buller. The rugged north face of The Bluff on the other side of the Howqua River, and in the distance the triple peaks of Mt. McDonald, fascinate most travellers to Mt. Buller, whether skiers or sightseers.

These hills are mainly on two ranges-The Great Dividing Range and the Jamieson-Howqua divide. They have an average height of approxi­mately 5200 feet, and are consequently snow-covered between June and September.

The Howqua River above Fry's is now becoming well known, there are quite a few fishermen's huts along its banks. There are two tracks up the river, one follows the stream, crossing it 29 times between Fry's and Eight Mile Creek-a distance a little under 8 miles. The other track keeps higher, making no river crossings at all; it was cut as a mining access track. There is a good hut at S-mile Creek, belonging to the Forestry Commission; from here the climb to the Howqua-Jamieson divide is steep but not uncomfortably scrubby. The view into the Jamieson Valley is generally greeted with much enthusiasm as it heralds the top of the climb. The trigger plants which grow at the top of this spur are

8.

particularly prolific and, being at an altitude of about 4300 feet, they are a deep pink, unlike the better-known almost white flowers.

The Bluff above the tree-line is a series of terraces linked by small rock walls, which give the appearance of a particularly rugged cliff when seen from a distance. Each step of this terrace is a garden of alpine flowers, which even the most unappreciative would enjoy.

The long, grassy southern slope of The Bluff is intersected by cattle­pads which will lead the traveller along the range over Mt. Lovick (5400 feet) to the Great Dividing Range at No. 1 Divide (5400 feet). The outlook to both the right and the left is excellent. Mt. Buller do­minates the extreme left. Further to the north Mt. Cobbler (the hunch­back), and the Cobbler Plateau, point towards the Crosscut Saw, which terminates on Mt. Howitt straight ahead. Southwards is the Great Dividing Range rising to 5200 feet at Mt. MacDonald.

No. 1 and No. 2 Divide would be more aptly named the Twins, both are table-shaped and are of equal height. The cattle pad leads on past

ROCK SCRAMBLE ON APPROACH TO MT. MACDONALD. -G. Coutts.

the 'Divides,' making its way to Mt. Clear, which rises treeless above the rest of the range. An excellent camp will be found among the snow gums just under the summit of Mt. Clear. Water is some distance down on the north face, but the inconvenience of carrying it is outweighed by the charm of a high camp. It is advisable to camp well up on this section of the alps as the saddles are quite often under clouds in the morning, causing difficulties in finding the way.

The cattle apparently do not go to Mt. MacDonald very often, for

9.

the pads become less obvious as The Nobs are passed. The range, how­ever, is well defined, so the walker may enjoy the country without undue concentration on navigation.

Mt. MacDonald is steep and dry, but the entire Upper Jamieson Valley is seen to advantage from its summit, the Crosscut Saw just showing over Mt. Lovick. The spur down to The Low Saddle is rocky and moderately scrubby, but walking is quite pleasant.

There seems to be some confusion about the naming of the Low Saddle-a pointer on Mt. Sunday calls it Peter's Gorge, which actually lies on the other side of Mt. Sunday.

The blazed trail from Mt. Sandy to Wren's Flat is easy to follow, but rather overgrown. From here the track leads to an old cattle station on Mitchell's Creek, some fifteen miles from Jamieson.

This country, I believe, is amongst the most scenic in Victoria; here is an ideal area to preserve the Victorian alpine scene. Much of our high country is now being exploited by timber millers for its Mountain Ash and Wooly Butt. In other areas the native plants are gradually being destroyed by cattle. I feel it is our duty to keep some of this unique country for our visitors and descendants to admire. We have here some two hundred square miles of commercially unimportant land. Where else would we find a better area to help overcome Victoria's serious deficiency in national parks? -P.B.

TOADSTOOLS. "But these are toadstools. You can't eat them." "They are quite all right. I have eaten them before." He did not

answer, but was still shaking his head while wrapping up the potatoes. I had started my campaign to enlighten people about fungi, but

obviously it had been a mistake to choose the grocer as my first victim. All I had achieved was to rob myself of a possible source of supplies should my fortnightly pay cheque give out before time. After all, nobody gives credit to a fellow who is a potential suicider, and a bit cracked any­how.

Yes, people find it hard to believe that apart from the deservedly popular mushroom (more accurately field mushroom, agaricus campestris) there are many other fungi which are edible and, for that matter, tasty and rewarding.

This disbelief is fostered by the term 'toadstool,' a rather peculiar word if taken in its literal meaning. Even assuming that toads would be sorely in need of a rest after having performed the important and arduous task of croaking, the small, slippery and somewhat inaccessible cap of a fungus would seem an unlikely choice. If so, however, they would hardly be unfair enough as to discriminate against the harmless and unoffending agaricus campestris and rob it of the pleasure of their company.

The distinction is even more unjustified if we consider the name 'mushroom,' because some of the toadstools have far more room for mush.

Actually the origin of both words has no connection with their pre­sent meaning. Mushroom comes from the French 'mousseron' (moss), toadstool from paddock stool. The subsequent association with toads has

10.

led people to believe, however, that there is something evil about them. Still this opinion is not entirely wrong, because some toadstools are

poisonous. The question arises now of how to separate the good from the bad ones; the sheep from the goats. In Europe fungi have been eaten for hundreds of years, and the methods adopted have varied with the times. A fungus was considered bad if the skin did not peel off; if

THE MACALLISTER WATERSHED 11.

it discoloured when broken; if it had an acrid taste when tried raw; if it grew near serpents' holes, etc. Such methods are rather reminiscent of medieval justice where a suspect was thrown into the river and his guilt determined according to whether he floated or sank.

I don't know whether the Australian aborigines ever went in for fungi, but if they did they would have had the perfect system to deal with such a situation. To test suspicious food, a lubra was grabbed and forced to swallow it. If she survived the male and more valuable members of the tribe could enjoy it.

Much as I admire its effectiveness, I can hardly recommend this method. For one thing, I am not so sure that our lady members would appreciate the honour bestowed upon them, but even if they did we would soon be reduced to the status of a men's walking club.

So there is only one way left, and that is to study the various species and to eat only those which we are sure to recognize.

The most dangerous fungi, Amanita verna and Amanita pholloides, fortunately don't grow in Australia. There is, however, one poisonous species, the Fly Agaric (Amanita muscaria), a fairly large fungus with a thin white stem, while gills and a scarlet red cap dotted with little white specks. In Austria and Germany school children were especially warned against eating it. The only way it was used was as a design for Xmas and New Year's cards, because it is really a pretty and spectacular sight. It usually grows in or near pine forests, and it is a familiar sight on the hills surrounding Macedon.

Strangely enough, this fungus is supposed to be eaten by tribes in Siberia. I don't know whether they have any special method to neutralize the poisons (more than one poisonous substance appears in the fly agaric), or whether, having been brought up on toadstools, they thrive on this sort of thing. In any case, they can have it all on their own!

I think we will leave this good looking, but thoroughly unpleasant fellow now, and turn to something more acceptable on the dinner plate, the Boletus, The Boletus can easily be recognized because the gills of the Agaricacae are replaced by tubes which look like a closely knit sponge.

The Boletus edulis, with a firm brown cap, whitish or yellow tubes, and a cream coloured stem, is the most popular fungus on the Continent ('Herrenpilz' in Austria and Germany, 'Cepe' in France). I have found some specimens in the Eltham and Beaconsfied districts, near pine trees. They make good eating, although they have not got quite the same deli­cate flavour as in Europe.

In the Dandenongs and near Healesville I have found some outsize specimens which, if true to type, would be good food for a whole family for days. When cooked, however, they are a disappointment. They have a musty, slightly bitter taste, and although harmless, are best left alone. Actually they are not true Boleti edulis, but a tropical variety coming from Ceylon.

The most frequently occurring variety here is the Cow Boletus with a slimy brown or yellow cap, a thin yellow stem and yellow tubes. It is edible when young, but gets soggy later on and would really deserve the name 'mush-room'.

The Boletus family is very respectable, but even they have a black 12,

13.

sheep, the Boletus satanas. There is really nothing black about this fungus, the cap is greyish, the pores and the stem a purple red. In the case of the Boletus satanas the same phenomenon occurs as in the case of the Fly Agaric. A fungus, considered poisonous, and even deadly in some parts of the world, is eaten in other parts with impunity. I have found only one specimen of this variety in Australia, and this was near Healesville.

Of the many edible Agraricacae (gilled fungi) just a few are men­tioned here. The Lactarius deliciosus with a pink or orange cup (when bruised the colour changes to verdisgreen), the large Parasol fungus with a long thin stem, a conical white cap with small brown spots, and the Shaggy Cap which, like the shaggy dog story, should be used while still fresh.

There have been marked differences in opinion as to the nutritive value of fungi. The once-held opinion that they are equivalent in food value to meat has been discarded definitely. Eighty to ninety per cent. is water; the rest are carbohydrates, fats and nitrogenous matter. Of the nitrogenous matter a considerable portion is non-proteid. The only vitamin occurring in appreciable quantities is vitamin D (antirachitic). Though on the whole the calorific value is approximately equal to that of a vegetable, it must also be considered that fungi are not very easily digestible and should not be eaten in too great quantities. The main function of fungi is not so much to provide calories as an appetising change of diet.

The ways of preparing fungi are legion. Quite an extensive literature exists on this topic. I have found, however, that any edible variety makes a very palatable dish when cut into small pieces and slowly cooked in butter - addition of eggs produces a tasty omelette. Fungi can also be used to advantage in soups and sauces, or mixed with spaghetti and cheese. Then, of course, there are the traditional methods of mushroom on toast, and mushroom and bacon, which can be applied to most edible toadstoods.

The scope of this article is only to give a brief outline on the subject. For those interested I can recommend: 'Victorian Toadstools and Mush­rooms,' by James H. Willis, published by the Field Naturalists' Club of Victoria.

A good set of handbooks, although written on English fungi, are the two publications by John Ramsbottom: 'Edible Fungi,' and 'Poisonous Fungi.' Unfortunately the first of the two is out of print at present.

Now one word of warning: Specimens of similar appearance may belong to different families and may have entirely different properties. One might be edible, the other poisonous. So it is necessary to have a certain amount of practical experience before selecting any as-yet-unknown type of fungus for the dinner-table.

For the enthusiast there is as much fun in fungus hunting as there is in fishing or shooting. If however, you wish to graduate from a fungus hunter to a fungus eater, I suggest that you take the following steps:-

(1) Make a will. (2) Contract a life insurance (no clause exists as yet excluding toad-

stool eaters). 14.

(3) Start eating, but very little-then wait. ( 4) If you die, keep a detailed record of your sensations for the

benefit of your fellow maniacs. (5) If you don't die, but are sick, repeat the experiment just to make

sure that it was the toadstools which caused the trouble. (6) If you are neither dead nor sick, call in the family, and together

eat the rest. -Karl Bing.

DAVID HALLY'S STORY. We are very pleased to be able to print below the personal story of

David Halley who was missing for some days during the search at Mt. Baw Baw last June. It will be recollected that Mihram Haig became lost from a Queen's Birthday week-end ski club working party, and that a widespread, full-scale search was instituted in a fruitless effort to find him. David was a member of one of the search parties, and we are indebted to him and the Catholic Walking Club for the story of his thoughts and actions during the period, and we are sure that many a man of much more than David's nineteen years would be proud to act with such resolve and fortitude as he did.

THE SKI HUT - MT. BAW BAW. -G. Christensen.

DAVID'S STORY. When I found I had become separated from my party, I was not

unduly worried, as I had been given instructions to proceed to Mt. Mueller and I expected my companions to arrive shortly after. I had never spent a night alone in the bush, but I was not concerned, as a true bush lover never feels lonely there. When, next morning, my party did not show up, I decided I was lost and that I would have to rely on my own ability to get me back to the road. After the hard scrub-bash­ing trip up, I knew that this would not be easy and, remembering in­structions which I had received in my junior days with my club, I

15.

pushed my way through a mass of tangled scrub to reach the nearest ridge so as to get my bearings. To my disappointment, I could not pick out any landmarks, as this wild country is just a succession of densely wooded ridges, and having no map, I could not distinguish one from the other.

It was then that I decided to bash my way down to a creek in the valley below, because I felt that, in time, it must lead me out. Following a creek in this type of country is a difficult and hazardous experience, as I discovered after having fallen into it on numerous occasions. One of my grimmest moments was when I tried to negotiate a waterfall. Having slipped half way down, I realized that I could not continue, as the going was too dangerous, so I tried to scramble up the falls again. To my dismay, my foot caught in a crevice and with the water pouring down on me, I tugged and tugged until I, at last, released my foot and dragged myself up over the rocks. This episode unnerved me a little, but with a few other unhappy ones, I put the incident out of my mind, and continued on my rock-hopping journey downstream.

PART OF THE BAW BAW PLATEAU NEAR MT. WHITELAW -G. Coutts.

In my earliest days in the club I had been told that, if lost, a hiker must immediately ration his food, and I had been doing this from the be­ginning of my long trek down from the ridge. I was determined to make it last until I found my way out or was found. At no stage didi panic, as I felt that it was most necessary to keep a level head and not jeopardize my chances of being discovered or of making my way out of the bush myself.

It was a tremendous relief to me when, after six long days in the most rugged country I have ever encountered, I heard voices and knew that help was at hand. The sight of those stalwart Forestry Commiss­ion officers was more welcome than words of mine can express. I would advise all bush walkers that, if they must get lost, let it not be in the Baw Baws.

16.

"THE BUSH TRAGEDY"

I can't recall exactly when I first read anything of the mystery, but I know that it was sometime before the visit to Wonnangatta re-awakened my interest and eventually led me to the complete story such as it is, and, it seems, such as it will always be. The subject was brought up by Norm on that trip the night we stayed at the lonely, remote Howitt Hut. He thought it fitting that he should describe how the body of the Chinese cook was found in the creek nearby. The following night at the very scene, the Wonnangatta Homestead, it was discussed again, lightly of course, but then the place did have an atmosphere. When jokingly asked where I intended to sleep, I replied: "With everyone else."

The Homestead was the highlight of that trip. We were questioned about it by the mailman from Dargo, who took us down to Stratford on our way home. He had lived all his life in the district, but he had never been to W onnangatta, such was its remoteness, yet he was full of stories about its history. It was inevitable that he should mention the mystery and in anticipation of a long, colourful story, we settled back in the upholstery of the new sedan and listened. It was the first account of any detail I had heard and apart from a few fallacies, such as Norm's Chinese cook, it was fairly correct. I resolved then to find out all I could about it.

One evening, about three monts later, I went to the Periodical Room of the Public Library, for it occurred to me that this was the most likely place for information. I chose the "Age," and received a huge volume covering the early part of 1918, from the counter. There was a depressing atmosphere in the great silent room. Apart from myself there were only about three other people there.

The yellowed pages of the volume were tattered and large pieces had been torn and were missing from some. I recognised little in it of the "Age" I knew. The headlines, the typography and the news treatment generally were much different. Everything belonged to a far away, almost unreal world, whose great issues had long since shrunken in our compre­hension. Without success I searched throug·h almost the whole of the volume, which contained the issues for January and February. There was a calm in the war news, for it was in the days preceding the Great German Offensive, but what there was, I found interesting and followed some items through several editions, almost forgetting my original pur­pose. It was on the front page of the last issue, that of February 28th, that I found the first of the news sought. A series of headlines, not unusual at that time, announced:

"SUPPOSED BUSH MURDER

A Mountain Tragedy

DINGOES REVEAL HIDDEN CORPSE

Station Manager's Death"

From the report which followed and from succeeding reports, which 17.

held sway on the front page for several days, I traced out the following story, largely deleting the extraneous information, the contradictions and repetitions which appeared from issue to issue, and the excess of morbid detail, all of which was presented in a literary style of journalism no longer associated with newspapers. Most of the reports subsequent to the first appeared under the heading, "THE BUSH TRAGEDY."

On the 26th of February, 1918, a body, identified as that of James Barclay, the late manager of the remote and mountain isolated Wonnan­gatta Station, was discovered partly buried in a creek about a quarter of a mile from the homestead. The discovery was made by the owner of the station, a Mr. Phillips, of Mansfield, who was notified by Barclay's nearest neighbour, Mr. Harry Smith, who lived eighteen miles away, that Barclay had been missing. Smith had visited Barclay with his mail early in January, and found no one at home, but a note pinned on the door said "Home tomorrow." When next he visited the homestead on February 14th, he found everything the same and the mail untouched. He immediately returned to Dargo and contacted the owner.

Barclay was last seen alive at Talbotville in December, 1917, when he went to vote in the conscription referendum. When he returned to Won­nangatta he took with him a man, John Bamford, who was to be a cook and general hand. There was no sign of Bamford now, and he was naturally wanted by the police for questioning. According to local people, he was of a quarrelsome nature.

There was an apparent lack of motive for, apart from a revolver, a razor, and Barclay's horse, nothing else was ascertained to be missing. Barclay's employers had been banking his wages at Mansfield, and there had been no withdrawals of any appreciable amount for some time. Theories were advanced and a number of statements suggesting motives and the means by which Barclay met his death were anonymously attri­buted to "local residents," but until the police had visited the scene no further evidence of substance was forthcoming.

In the meantime, while this visit was taking place, the hue and cry for Bamford brought about an amusing incident which was reported in the following manner:-

"A MAN ANSWERING TO BAMFORD'S DESCRIPTION

"Frankston.-On Sunday morning the local police received a telephone message stating that a man answering to a description of the man John Bamford, inquired for by the police in connection with the supposed murder of James Barclay at the Wonnangatta Station, had been seen between Seaford and Carrum. Constables Ryan and Farley immediately started in a motor car in quest of the man, and came up with him in Carrum township. Constable Ryan questioned the man and found that he was apparently out of his mind. Considering that he was not fit to be at large, the constable arrested him and lodged him in the Frankston lock-up on a charge of vagrancy. The arrested man gave the name of John Thomas, and stated that he "had just arrived from heaven to save the world. The police expressed the opinion that the man arrested at Frankston was not Bamford."

18.

Within three days of the discovery of the body a party of two detec­tives and two local cattlemen, who acted as guides, set out from Mansfield on a seventy-mile trip on horseback to the Wonnangatta homestead. The trip was anticipated to be extremely difficult, which indeed it proved to be, for when they returned four days later, the party told a story of great hardship, of bad weather and lack of supplies. They brought Barclay's body with them and an autopsy, held at Mansfield, revealed that he had been shot in the back.

At this stage there was little more information and the reports relative to the case lost prominence. It was obvious that the resolution of the case awaited the finding of Bamford, and I knew that it wouid be nine months before this was to happen. The last mention of Barclay was of his burial at Hastings, where he was born and lived as a boy. At an early age he had left home for the country, never to return alive. At Wonnangatta, where most of his life was spent, his pleasing and genial disposition won him many friends. In this way closed the first chapter of what was to prove a yet greater mystery.

THE OLD HOMESTEAD.

It occurred to me then how little the intervening thirty years had altered the fascination surrounding the Shangri-la which held this man. In those days it was occupied. Now, for most of the year, it is empty and no less remote. I remembered the feeling of discovery I experienced when I first saw the name on a map in the middle of a vast uninhabited mountainous area. I did not expect then that I would ever see the place.

Thus musing, I returned to the day three months before when we descended from the Howitt Plains and had lunch in a cool glade res­ounding with bird calls such as I had never before, nor since, heard the like. That afternoon we followed Dry Creek into the Wonnangatta Valley, when it began to rain. The valley filled with a drizzling grey mist as we skirted the fenced fiats at the beginning of the station. For three miles the valley continued to open out and new vistas of the river fiats appeared at each turn. Then the timbered hills becan to close in again. First we came upon the little ancient graveyard with the overgrown graves of the pioneers, the Smiths and the Bryces, then, beyond it, on a slight

19.

rise and in the midst of a group of great pines, the homestead itself. Some cattle on the flats and the well-kept fences, led us to believe that the place would be occupied, yet as we approached, I secretly hoped that this would not be so.

I had not hoped in vain. Soon we had a cheerful fire burning in the living-room fireplace, drying our capes, and we explored the rooms, dis­covering a multitude of odds and ends. Then when the rain stopped we looked around the out-buildings and gathered pine cones for the fire. That night we ate at the living-room table, which was decorated with flowers the girls had picked from the long-abandoned garden outside. Afterwards, when the glow of the fire had replaced the daylight within the room, we sat around it, glancing through the few old books and diaries we found on the mantlepiece, and discussing the plans for the following day; and in the intervening silences, listened to the water dripping from the broken spouting outside the door, and the rising wind in the valley beyond.

I suddenly awoke from my reveries to find that I was the only reader left in the reading-room, and the attendant quietly preparing to close up. On the point of closing the volume, I glanced at a page I had uncon­sciously turned up and was confronted by the headlines:

"MISSING COOK FOUND

Arrested at Yarram"

Surely, I thought, it must be another mistake or a hoax. Yet the headlines were so definite-! could not leave yet. In spite of the lateness of the hour I hurriedly read the report, and was convinced of its authen­ticity.

An official police message stated that Bamford had been detained at Yarram, where he had made a signed statement in connection with the death of Barclay. It was affirmed that he was wearing a suit of clothes belonging to Barclay. He admitted that his name was Bamford, and that he was from W onnangatta. He further stated that he was with Barclay at Talbotville, where they had a drink, and that they had brought some beer away with them, and that later they quarrelled near the station hut.

I closed the volume and returned it to the counter and left the build­ing, my mind engrossed in the discovery. The popularly known story was then a myth. I had no intention at the time of enquiring further, but whenever during the next day I thought of Wonnangatta, the enigma of the other version posed itself. There must, I thought, have been some foundation in it. The more I thought, the less satisfied I was to accept the story as it now appeared, and in the hope of finding some clue to the origin of the other story, I went back to the Library the following night.

This time I had no success with the "Age." Most of the local news during November of 1918, which was the time when I would have expected to find something, was swept aside by international events preceding and following the armistice. Yet I continued on into December, but still nothing appeared, gradually confirming, in my mind, the information of the previous night, that Bamford was caught and tried for the murder of Barclay.

The thought of Bamford's trial suddenly made me curious about his 20.

fate, and I retrieved the volume for March and April. I soon came to the page I had previously reached, but the headlines no longer held the same interest. No longer was there any sensation of discovery. They had taken from Wonnangatta the air of mystery, which, ever since I first heard the story, I had associated with it.

But surprises were to be the order of the day. Headlines the follow­ing day announced a fresh development, and an accompanying report stated that a sensation had been caused in police circles when the man arrested at Yarram denied that Bamford was his name, and contradicted earlier statements attributed to him. "Despite the fact that the prisoner resembled Bamford in several respects," it stated, "the police were prac­tically satisfied that he was not identical with the missing cook."

The next day it was reported that the man, who had been brought to Melbourne, was discharged.

I was certain now, that the next development would be found in the November papers, for there was no longer any reason to disbelieve the popular story. This time, with the 'Argus' my inquiry was more fruitful, and I found in the edition of November 11th a small report under the heading:

"ECHO OF BUSH TRAGEDY

Suspect's Body Found"

The information contained in this report, and a report published five days later, which, as far as I have ascertained, was the last report to appear in connection with the case, accorded with the popular story.

When the last snow on the Howitt Plains had thawed, a long-planned trip was made by a party of three detectives from Dargo in company with Mr. Harry Smith, the man whose information had lead to the finding of Barclay's body, in the hope of finding Bamford, or, in consideration of the wildness of the country and the extreme conditions prevailing in winter, his body.

In a creek on Howitt Plains, thirteen miles from the homestead, his body was found, but not as expected. He had been shot in the head, by a revolver similar, it was found, to that which was missing from the home­stead. A search in the vicinity of the body revealed no trace of the revolver.

The last words in the case were attributed to the detective in charge of the party: "That the body had been placed in the position in which it lay by human hands is beyond dispute."

And there, until this day, the matter rests. For the last time, I returned to the counter, and the smiling attend­

ant, and passed out through the great portico to the traffic and the neon signs of Swanston Street, and made my way home. But my thoughts were a long way away, with the rugged spurs, the wide rushing streams, the shaded valleys, and the mists which form and swirl across the high plains at dusk enwrapping them in a silence inexplicable and foreboding.

-A.C,

21.

VV eather and the Bush walker

Among the superstitious and similarly misled, plants of the field and forest, as well as wild animals that roam plains, highlands and woodlands are accepted as natural weather prophets gifted with storm­scenting foresight, sharpened so keenly by regular use that they can fore­cast weather months in advance.

Even the poets since the dawn days of their art have accepted and stuck to the pleasing fancies about the birds, bees and small game that outguess the weather man and store an abundance of food previous to a severe winter, while they do not labour so diligently on foraging and food caching expeditions when a mild winter is foreseen. "When the onion skin is very thin," rhymes one poet, "a mild winter is setting in." "When the onion skin is thick and tough, the coming winter'll be very rough." Another-"A swarm of bees in May is worth a load of hay." It must be to these gifted seers' relief that no such prophetic ability has been ob­served in poetically unwieldy flora such as rhododendron or asparagus.

We might argue that if nature desired to protect the plants and ani­mals against King Winter's wiles and chills, the most practical method of accomplishing that purpose would be to stage a mild winter. It is impossible for science to predict weather more than several days in ad­vance of its occurrence. Man, irrespective of his amazing talent and ingenuity, has thus far failed to develop a practical method for forecast­ing far future weather. But while it is the writer's opinion that plants, animals, hunters, fishermen, farmers and other outdoor folk have been unable to aid man measurably in that assignment, there are, however, some creatures that react to atmospheric changes sufficiently to indicate some significant change in current weather conditions. So while bush­land inhabitants are of no value in trying to anticipate the severity of future seasons, their assistance, along with certain sky signs and a correct interpretation of the daily weather map can play a big part in deciding when and where to unroll the sleeping bag.

Sensitivity to changes in atmospheric moisture is the main claim to fame of birds, beasts and plants, and assuming we are familiar with current "professional" weather information, we can often use this sen­sitivity to our advantage. But first, a brief introduction to Meteorological Office data. Newspaper weather maps are never more than twenty-four hours old, while that which appears in the evening newspaper is often no older than nine hours. A reasonable generalisation can be made re­garding the weather that could be expected from the published chart.

The weather chart is actually an atmospheric contour map and bears considerable resemblance to those used by surveyors, mountain climbers and others interested in land elevation. Where the topographical chart indicates the height of the land surface, the weather chart uses the press· ure of the atmosphere as its medium. Lines joining places with equal barometer readings and known as isobars, are the dominating feature of the weather map and from their configuration and spacing some idea of

22.

future conditions can be deduced. In the Southern Hemisphere wind cir­culation around a "high" is anticlockwise, around a "low" clockwise. The spacing of the isobars constituting these pressure systems is directly re­lated to the strength of the wind. A steep pressure gradient is said to exist when the isobars are relatively closely packed. Strong winds ac­company such a situation. Conversely, widely spaced isobars, indicating a shallow pressure gradient, are associated with relatively light winds.

Pressure systems come in all shapes and sizes and are responsible for all phases of our weather. In summer, high pressure usually brings mild, often humid, weather, with highland thunderstorms and wind direc­tion and strength conforming more to local topographical influence than the usual rules of circulation due to the weak pressure gradient associated with a high, for example, sea breezes in coastal areas. In winter, al­though occasionally accompanied by overcast, drizzling conditions, high pressure is mainly responsible for improving weather, frosts and fogs. Low pressure in all seasons generally means some deterioration in pre­sent conditions with a preference for showery, squally weather in winter, and in summer, the passage of the low with its associated cold front causes the rapid drop in temperature as cooler air is drawn from the south to replace that heated by its long passage across the sun-baked interior. The amount of moisture in the controlling air mass, governs the quantity of rain that the pressure system will produce. The source of that air and its subsequent path is the key to its rain producing potential or other properties it may have. For example, air passing eastwards from the Indian Ocean into W. Australia will have a fair amount of moisture, especially in its lower levels. But if it continues in an E.S.E. direction to Victoria, which State it may enter as a northwesterly, the long passage over the continent will mean that it will have lost most of its moisture - some having fallen out as rain, fog and dew, the remain-

23.

der having mixed upwards into drier air. In summer, this northwesterly will be a hot and fairly dry one over Victoria. The only rain will be in the form of isolated showers, and, perhaps, thunderstorms only at the change line itself when the hot air is lifted violently up the cold front, above the wedge of cold southerly air undercutting the northerly as the front passes N.E. over the state.

Although meteorology knows no way of ensuring infallible accuracy even in short-period forecasting, there are, however, a few "weather proverbs" that have stood the test of time and enjoy a high degree of success. Let us examine a few.

"Rain long foretold, long past; short notice, soon past.''

That is if for several days there has been a slow extending and thickening of the clouds, it is probable that any resulting rain will be correspondingly persistent; but if the clouds have rapidly increased, the rain, if any, will be of short duration. For example the passing of a cold front.

"A rainbow in the morning is a shepherd's warning: A rainbow at night is the shepherd's delight.''

This applies particularly to the Southern Australian climate where most of our weather moves from west to east. As rainbows require simul­taneous rain and sunshine for their formation, it is clear that when visible in the morning in the west, the rain is moving towards us; whilst in the evening, the rain is moving away to the east, the western sky being clear enough to premit adequate sunshine.

and

"When the dew is on the grass, Rain will never come to pass.''

... "When the grass is dry at morning light, Look for rain before the night.''

What is true for dew holds for hoar frost, for temperature alone decides whether the deposit shall be the one or the other - frost if the tempera­ture is below freezing point.

The simple explanation of the verses above is that the presence of dew or frost on the grass betokens a night with calm, comparatively dry air and clear skies - typical fair weather conditions in fact, while the absence of dew may well imply that the night has been muggy, cloudy and windy-the sort of weather that often precedes a spell of rain. Of course, there must be sufficient moisture in an air mass, that is, its dew point must be sufficiently high, for cooling overnight to reduce the tem­perature of the air adjacent to the ground to its dew point when dew will begin to be deposited, but if there is a slight breeze the saturated air will be circulated upwards for some distance, causing a mist or fog. If the wind is stronger, the air will not be in contact with the cold ground long enough to cool to its dew point there, but on circulating upwards, cooling, due to its expansion as it moves upwards where atmospheric pressure is less, will lower its temperatutre to the dew point and stratus cloud (also known as high fog) will form at one to two thousand feet. So, for radiation fog, not too much wind-but not too little.

24.

Clouds play such a substantial part in the weather drama that it is reasonable to expect them to give some clue as to their future develop­ment. Considerable vertical development or build-up of the low clouds early in the day is almost a certain sign of approaching rain. An old tag goes-

".Mountains in the morning, Fountains in the evening."

When the dew point of the air is high, say 50 deg. to 60 deg. F., there is sufficient moisture which, with heating of the ground surface by the hot summer sun causing strong convectional currents upwards, will cause large cumulus clouds to develop by mid-morning and thunderstorms by the afternoon. The less moisture present and the further away from midsummer, the later the cloud development. Of course, showers and thunderstorms may continue on till late at night with a particularly moist air in summer - generally a north-easterly in Eastern Australia. Gen-

erally speaking, thunderstorms move with the current of air that involves the main body of the storms, namely the wind at one and a half to two and a half miles above the surface; this is about the level at which alto­cumulus clouds, often observed in the vicinity of a storm, are found. To watch the movement of these clouds is to get a pretty good idea of the speed and direction of the storm's advance. When the altocumulus appears to be moving fast, the storm is likely to come up quickly, but when it appears to be moving slowly, you will probably have ample warning of its approach.

Returning to our bush friends, it has been noticed for ages past that their reactions to the air's water content is quite noticeable. All the following observations are concerned with an increase in humidity. It is when these peculiarities are observed in conjunction with a weather map indicating some approaching disturbance or depression that they have significance for us. Of course, sometimes, we may think the dumb creatures have made a genuine mistake, but humidity may increase with­out storms or rain for some time to come. In fact, in Victoria, long spells of easterlies in winter may bring long spells of quiet, but foggy, weather with only a few places receiving actual rain and then generally drizzle. At other times we dumb creatures can make errors of judgment. "If livestock crowd together rain will follow" could also suggest that the most succulent fodder is concentrated in a small area. Here are a few time­honoured signs of humidity increase.

25.

"When the cuckoo is heard in the lowland." "If swallows touch the water as they fty." ''The odour of flowers is more perceptible." "Dead branches falling in calm weather.'' "Chickweed and clover leaves contract.'' "Thistles tend to close their flowers."

The effect on plants, particularly those bearing flowers, is fairly similar in all types. Audibility during periods of little wind is also exceptional when the air is moist. Indications of decreasing humidity are naturally the reverse of those mentioned above.

A few words about mountain weather. Even modest mountains have a very different climate from the valleys around them. They are gen­erally wetter and, especially by day, cooler. By night, they may some­times be warmer, even though the loss of heat from the ground is greater at the top than at the bottom of the mountain, for the air cooled by con­tact with the cooled ground slides down hill, leaving the slopes and sum­mits warmer than the valleys a thousand feet or so below. Generally, the free blowing of the wind is restricted in valleys, but on the mountains one or two thousand feet up the wind will probably be travelling twice or three times as fast. The forced ascent or cooling of this air as it meets the hills or mountains will form cumulus cloud, if there is sufficient mois­ture, which is one reason why rainfall tends to increase the higher up the windward slope of a mountain you go. The best views from moun­tain tops in showery weather may often be obtained around dawn before the cumulus start rising up, although the valleys early in the day may be blanketed by mist or fog and sometimes smoke. Regions subject to frosts in all months of the year comprise portions of the tablelands of New South Wales, the Eastern Highlands and parts of the Central Divide and Western District in Victoria, practically the whole of Tasmania and a small area in the Southwest of Western Australia.

In addition to the examples cited above, there is nothing to prevent anyone from mentally compiling a few personal observations that can be put to test at any time. A feature of the weather is its availability to all who wish to observe it! The scientific explanation of many forecast­ing aids may seem to be involved to those whose bents are in other direc­tions, yet their principles can easily be applied by all. "A high wind pre­vents frost" is one example. An extensive scientific education is not essential for an appreciation of the many phases of the weather, and by regularly noting its whims and vagaries, a reasonable knowledge of it is available to all. A study of the daily weather charts and notes and the corresponding weather is worthwhile. It must be remembered that, like the medical general practitioner, it is from day to day experience of the weather and its symptoms shown up by the chart and the sky outside that the weather forecaster gains his skill-experience is everything.

There are elementary texts on meteorology which will make that weather chart and other important principles of meteorology easily un­derstood. There is one titled "The Weather" - a Pelican Book. A simpler one, written by two local officers, is used by schools. The pub­lications and training sections of the Commonwealth Bureau of Meteor­ology is always ready to help and advise and to arrange excursions for parties wishing to inspect the Weather Bureau. -GRAHAM QUINN

LIFE IN A DROVERS• CAMP. "Ciancy•s gone to Queensland droving, and we don't know where he are!'

-Patterson.

Well, this we would know about Clancy, hero of several of "Banjo" Paterson's poems, that he would have joined a band of men whose some­what romantic calling will be known to future generations of Australians only in stories, legends and poems, as is already the case with bullockies and coach drivers and Murrumbidgie "whalers." And the drover, no less than other legendary Australian figures, will richly deserve his place beside the camp-fire of the folk heroes of our country's early days, for without him the great inland would not have been able to provide us with beef, hides and wool for our city dwellers and for export to the world's market. And it is not really so strange after all to find an article on droving in a magazine like "WALK," when we remember the friendly relations built up between ourselves and the cattlemen of the mountains, whose hospitality, friendliness, and very useful advice about tracks and huts we have all come to appreciate. So let us go with Clancy and see what life is like in a cattle-drovers' camp, and on the great stock routes of the Never-Never.

The boss drover has brought his plant (large four-wheeled waggon­ette, fifty or sixty head of horses, saddles, bridles and hobbles) to the station where he will "lift" a mob of 1,500 head of store bullocks for delivery to a rail-head or another station a thousand miles or more to the south. He will have engaged at least seven men for the job, among whom will be a cook and a man called the horse-tailer, whose job it will be to look after the horses, help the cook load and unload the waggonette at each day's camp, get water and firewood, which on the dry plains country may have to be carried for several days for cooking and drinking purposes.

The head stockman and station hands will have mustered the cattle into a convenient homestead paddock, where they will be counted by the station manager and the boss drover, who will sign for the delivery of the mob, in which there will be extra beasts for killing on the route, according to the number of men in the plant and the length of the trip. The contract to deliver the mob at its destination would be drawn up and signed, the boss drover being responsible for paying his men, usually at the end of the trip, less any advance payments he may have given to those needing tobacco and clothing during the trip. The contract rate is paid at so much per head per hundred miles, part paid in advance to cover cost of provisioning the plant and for expenses on the route for extra food and other expenses. Upon delivery the balance of the contract price is paid to the boss drover's bank account, from which the men will receive payment in full for wages due to them.

A trip of 1,000 miles would take four months under normal condi­tions and in a moderately good season, the rate of travel being about nine to ten miles per day, seven days a week. This would be a short trip, many taking six months and even the best part of a year. On such long trips one would strike a lot of very hot, dry weather, and eaten-out stock routes, and there would be long distances between watering places. (Do

27.

Moccasin

Fringe

,, h .. .. , ; .. :'" L I 1.1

'·~.~; ~~>~··C\~. ' . .

Griffin

28.

you remember that memorable scene in the film, "The Overlanders," where the thirst-crazed cattle rushed the waterhole?) One of the hands en­gaged would be an experienced cattleman known as "The Second-in­Charge." As the boss has the responsibility of riding ahead each day to pick out the next campsite (and sometimes ride many miles otf the stock route to notify a station manager that he is about to enter his run, providing such information as the size of the mob, where they have come from and their destination, and perhaps arranging for watering the mob when there is no water on the route at that stage), the "Second-in-Charge" takes over responsibility for seeing that no beasts are lost, and that when the mob is watering every beast has its fill, and that no rush occurs at a bad watering place that may cause death and injury by trampling.

One of the things that has to be guarded against, and one that every drover fears, is a cattle break; an Australian colloquialism for a stampede. And the first week on the trip-and what happens in that week-will very largely determine whether the trip will be one of many breaks, restless and nervous cattle and tired and irritable men, or such a trip as Paterson describes in his "Clancy of the Overflow," when " ... the drover's life has pleasures that the townsfolk never know."

At first the cattle are wild and fresh, for they rarely see a man even on horseback, so the strange noises and smells coming from the camp, or the sudden appearance of a man on horseback on his watch on a dark night, may start a break, and this must be prevented at all costs; for once a mob breaks it is sure to do this again and again, causing losses through injury and death in timber, or by trampling as the huge weight of the terrified beasts crushes into a mass of bewildered animals, thunder­ing away into the night. Fortunately, these rushes rarely make towards the camp, for nothing could withstand that living wave of a thousand tons and those thousands of cloven hooves that would pound the frail human body into a mass of bloody pulp.

As dusk falls the drovers round the mob together two or three hund­red yards from the camp, and when fairly settled the boss takes the first watch (called the dog-watch) for an hour until the men have had their evening meal, unrolled their blankets and selected the piece of ground that will be bed under the stars for the night. Four specially selected horses, known as night horses, are brought in by the horse-tailer and tethered at the camp during the night. They are selected for their speed, calm temperament, good night sight and sure-footedness, and do no other work whatever. Now the first two men take first watch for two hours, waking the next watch and so on in turn throughout the night; keeping the camp fire going so that the new watch can make a pannikin of tea or cocoa to drink with the "brownie" left out by the cook for the men on watch. Each man rides at walking pace in opposite directions around the cattle, now all lying down chewing the cud or sleeping, either singing or whistling softly, or if an Aboriginal stockman, more than likely play­ing a variety of tunes quietly on a gumleaf. The idea of making this kind of sound is to let the cattle know you are about, so that some nervous beast does not suddenly awaken to see something strange loom­ing out of the darkness, causing it to rise with a snort that in all proba­bility would cause that mad rush already described. Should such occur

29.

in spite of everything, the two men on watch ride at full gallop along one wing towards the head of the streaming herd, their object being to turn the leaders into open country, if heading for timber, and to gradually swing the whole mob in to a huge circle and thus steady the beasts down and work them back to the camp. As this goes on the boss and his second mount the other two night horses, and give a hand; and should the mob have gotten out of control the horse-tailer would round up his horses and all hands except the cook would be out, and by this time the leading steers could be miles away. In trying to turn the mob and steady their rush, extreme care is taken to see the cattle don't "ring." That is, there is danger that the whole mob will pack into a tight circle, running around and pressing ever tighter, until many beasts are crushed to death by the weight of the crush, and those that fall trampled to death.

All this, of course, holds the greatest danger for the men; for it will most likely be pitch dark, they will be unfamiliar with the terrain over which they are galloping at full speed, while at the same time watching that they are not overtaken by the mob, or worse still, not drawn into that vortex of "ringing" beasts from which neither man nor horse would come out alive. Such an experience keys up men and horses, and leaves the mob in a very nervous and agitated state, so that it takes all the skill, and experience gathered in a lifetime, to prevent a recurrence. Apart from something frightening a beast, or a number of beasts, into headlong flight, once having experienced a break, the animals all try to get out of each other's way, for in the first break they would have been knocked about, gored and trampled, and will not be slow to get out of the way of the one behind. And so a wave of terror passes through the herd, a worse demon than the one that started them off in the first place. Thus we see the reason for careful handling at the outset.

A ter the first fortnight most mobs really settle down, and if feed is good, waterholes, billabongs and water bores are met with each day, all hands have a pretty easy time. But before six months are past, especial­ly if feed and water have been scarce, men and horses, and the cattle, will have become tired and leg-weary from being continually on the move for long hours every day, in addition to the breaking of one's rest every night to take turn on watch. So the drift of discussion turns from ex­periences of other trips, or what the last station was like to work on, to what one is going to do when one gets that cheque at the end of the trip; whether you'll get down early enough to get to Melbourne for the "Cup," and whether your "sugar" will last a "loaf" in the city until the droving season starts again after the "wet" in the New Year.

You started the trip like Clancy as he rode "behind them singing"; before the trip was ended you've cursed yourself for ever being such a bloody fool for taking on such a job; you've charged the cook with being a cold-blooded murderer; you've had a row with your best mate, and observed that the boss must be a discendant of Simon Legree, while he in turn returns the compliment, by mumbling to himself that he's never had such a useless lot of b--s on any trip in the last forty years. Within a week, refreshed in mind and body, you're wondering where you'll pick up the next mob "coming south." Wonder if you'll meet any of your old mates, and reflect on the jolly good meals the "babbling brook" man-

30.

aged to give you under the most adverse weather conditions, after a week of eating the insipid plates of hash that go for meals in a third-class pub. And the boss? He'll think to himself: "Pretty rough lot that bunch; but they went right through with me, and we delivered every beast-not bad for a 2,000 mile trip. Have to keep an eye open for them on the way back." -Jack Morrison.

MAPS. The Institut Geographique National of Paris have made a notable

advance in the technique of map making by vacuum forming a pre­printed plastic sheet over a three-dimensional mould of the appropriate shape, thus producing a three-colour relief map of rigid vinyl plastic sheet. A photograph of the finished product, a map of Grenoble, shows what looks exactly like an ordinary ordnance map with the important difference that the hills and valleys appear to the proper height scale, and the map really becomes a living representation of the country it purports to portray. By using semi-rigid instead of rigid sheeting a folding map suitable to our needs could easily be produced; we intend to have a go at one as soon as we get the time.

On the local front, mapping at present is hardly a major activity. The Baw Baw search in June was the cause of a hurried preliminary issue of a combined map of quarter sheets "C" and "D" of the Walhalla map being prepared by the Lands Department. When finally issued the map will be a most useful one, although the enlarged scale resulting from the issue of quarter-sheets of the Military Series makes the maps re­quired for a trip more bulky. Whether the extra bulk is justified by the finer detail is a moot point, dependent on the area covered by the map.

In the Military Series it is understood that a new 1 inch to the mile full-sheet (i.e. normal 'ordnance' map) of the Castlemaine area has been issued. This is the first issue of such a map, and should be of great in­terest as the area is one potentially rich in week-end walks, but one which is little known to most. Since the re-introduction of Sunday country trains a couple of years ago a few trips have even ventured into the area for the day. The issue of this map may help to further popularise the area and kindle an interest in its varied historical background.

THE END OF THE TRACK A. W. BURSTON, Esq.

(Past President, Melbourne Walking Club)

In any sphere of activity it is given to only a few to make their mark over a long period. In our particular sphere our friend, Bill Burston of the Melbourne Walking Club was such a one. His activities extended over more than forty years, and during that time he showed his deep and active interest in eve1·y possible way. To many bushwalkers who did not belong to his club, or know him in connection with his other outdoor and natural history activities, he will long be remembered as the organising genius behind the 1934-35 Scout Jamboree Map, almost certainly the premier effort of its kind. He was Past President of the

31.

Melbourne Walking Club, a Councillor of the Victorian National Parks Association, and a Committee-member of the Field Naturalists' Club of Victoria, and his cheery presence will be missed by all. To his Family and Club we extend our sincere condolences.

THE LORE OF THE SNAKE.

* Snakes, considered by most to be repulsive, degenerate creatures, are actually very highly specialised. For a short distance at least, some species can outdistance a man. In the trees they can outclimb him, and in the water can outswim him. Perhaps because of their seemingly supernatural ability to progress without the aid of legs, the ancients considered them worthy of worship. Blinded by prejudice and ignorance modern man seeks only to destroy them.

The cult of serpent worship is old and widespread, and in the mytho­logy of all races the serpent plays a very important part. Sometimes it is kindly, sometimes hostile. An example of the latter is man's fall in Genesis. There is evidence of serpent worship in pre-historic Europe, whilst in Babylonian and Sumerian civilizations an important goddess was identified with a serpent. Most people are familiar with the cobra in the "uraeus" of the Egyptian Pharoah. It is the sign of sovereignty. In Minoan Crete and pre-Homeric Greece we find the serpent frequently in myth and art. India, North America, Africa; they all have their snake­cults, whilst in the Mexain and Mayan civilisations the great plumed ser­pent was the most important of their gods. In Australia the serpent occurs among aborigines mainly as a totem and in folk-lore. The great serpent in the Milky Way is connected with their rites of initiation.

Notwithstanding this long association with man, snakes today are one of the most persistently misunderstood and persecuted of animals Snakes are a sub-order (Ophidia) of the order Squamata which includes the lizards, and they can be distinguished from the latter, which sometimes resemble then, by the following external charac­teristics: The body is always elongate and without limbs or with vestigal remains of a hind pair (some legless or snake-lizards) possess the latter too); the eye has a transparent covering and is without lids; there is no external ear-opening; the tongue is long and distinctly forked and is retractile into a sheath; the head and body are covered with scales which, according to their shape and position can be used to determine species and genera. Unlike most other vertibrates the teeth are not em­bedded in true sockets but are ankylosed to the bones of the jaw and are shed regularly, new ones taking their place. There are three types: solid, grooved and canaliculate. Solid teeth are found in all primitive snakes such as boas and pythons, and more than half of the Colubrine species, these being non-venomous. The rest of the Colubrines are back· fanged, the fangs being grooved, and the bite is usually toxic to the ani­mals natural prey. The canaliculate fangs are found in the rest and are positioned in the front of the mouth. All dangerous snakes are to be found in this group and they are the most highly specialised.

All snakes are carnivorous, and most species are able to swallow 32.

4.

7.

m A. ~B. ,.(j) \(f)

6.

2.

[NT RANCE TO WINDPIPE

ToNGUE

8. A. ,... ,_. :;:::--,=- ~ ,.

B. - -..... ----z- .., ._

33.

1. Death Adder in typical pre-striking pose. 2. Head of Viper showing fangs erect and ready for striking.

Protective tissue partially withdrawn. Also showing tongue and sheath.

3. Head of Python. Compare teeth with those of Viper. 4. Method of counting body scales (left). Ventral scales

(right). 5. Longitudinal section of head showing fang, tongue and

poison sac. 6. Head scalation, an important means of identification (See

also WALK 1953 (No. 4).

7. Types of Fang: A-Canaliculate. B-Virtually hollow. C-Hollow (Viperine). Indicates progressive lengthening.

8. Types of Scale: A-Fish scales. B-Bnake scales (normal). C-Snake scales (skin distended).

NOTE: Figs. 2 and 7 after Loveridge-Reptiles of Pacific Area. Figs. 3 and 6 after Waite-The Reptiles and Amphibians

of South Australia.

33A.

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prey much in excess of their own diameter, due to the peculiar con­struction of the skull. Instead of being rigid the bones are loosely at­tached and lightly built. In addition the lower jaw is in two parts, joined in the front by an elastic material which allows the jaw to expand enormously. The swallowing is accomplished by the independent move­ment of the many rows of teeth drawing the prey into the body with a racking movement. A copious supply of saliva assists. The tongue is an organ of smell and is not used to "slime" the prey. The constant flck­ering in and out of the mouth is to convey scent particles to a structure lying above the palate between the nostrils, called Jacobson's organ. During ingestion the tongue is withdrawn into its sheath at the base of the mouth. In swallowing an exceptionally large animal an extension of the wind-pipe consisting of strong cartilaginous material is pushed out of the side of the mouth to be withdrawn after a few breaths have been taken. Without this provision the animal would suffocate. The gastric juices are very powerful, bones and even teeth, which are the hardest animal matter, being easily digested. It is interesting to note that hooves, fur and hair pass out of the system unaltered.

In the main, snakes are egg-layers, but some bear living young. The former are termed oviparous and the latter ovoviparous, and the young are hatched inside the mother's body. They are not produced in the mammalian fashion. When they emerge from the egg or the mother's body they are soon able to fend for themselves, though as snakes are cannibals, they find it necessary to avoid becoming "hors doeuvres" for some larger serpent.

Feeding habits of snakes vary considerably. Some, like the King Cobra, feed on others of their kind including venomous types. Cold­blooded animals are the choice of another group whilst a number feed exclusively on warm blooded prey. Others are indifferent, a warm or cold-blooded meal being equally acceptable. The smaller fry of snake­dom prey upon insects as well as the smaller mammals. The destruction of pests by these much-maligned animals is tremendous, they being, in fact one of man's best friends in this respect. Many warehouses "em­ploy" pythons to keep down rat and mouse populations, whilst harmless snakes have been imported into Ireland as "pest eradicators."

The most widely used method of propulsion is the undulating move­ment. To progress at all in this manner there must be some obstruc­tion against which the animal can press its body. Inequalities of the surface, be they small as to be unnoticable, grass, twigs, stones, etc. -anything will suffice. On a perfectly smooth surface a snake just floun­ders trying to swim along. Boas and some vipers can progress in a different fashion. It is effected by the rythmical contraction and dilation of the ventral muscles acting upon the transverse scales. When the muscles are fully contracted the scales engage with the ground forming a "point d'appai" towards which the more posterior regions can be drawn and extended by muscles which are in the process of contraction. The earthworm progresses in a similar fashion.

Snakes are cosmopolitan in their distribution and exist under a wide variety of conditions. Though mostly found in the tropical and temperate zones they also extend to Siberia. In Canada they range to about the

as.

50th parallel; but it is in the tropics where the greatest numbers and diversity are evidenced. The vast majority are terrestrial; some are ar­boreal, whilst others are aquatic. The latter, however, must come to the land to breed. Snakes have been found at an altitude of 10,000 feet in both the Andes and the Himalayas. They have a greater range than lizards, being adaptable to much lower temperatures, and have become fitted to modes of life of a much great variety. No snakes are found naturally in Ireland or New Zealand, and no poisonous one are found in Madagascar or most of the West Indies, in spite of the close proxi­mity of mainlands rich in venomous species. On the large islands of the West Indies no poisonous snakes occur, they being found only on Mar­tinique, St. Lucia, and two or three of the smaller islands. Most Aus­tralian snakes are venemous. Vipers are the only poisonous snakes in Europe.

Both fishes and snakes possess scales, but there is considerable dif­ference between the nature of the two. The scales of a fish are im­planted in the skin as a separate structure, and can be scraped or pulled off. In snakes the form and arrangement is quite different, really only so-called scales. They are formed by a succession of folds of skin, the visible or upper part of each fold being covered with a thin polished layer. When swallowing prey, or in many species also with angry flat­tening of the neck, the stretching of the skin shows the 'scales' sur­rounded by a lighter shade. This is the normally folded postion. Ex­amination of a sloughed skin will show the membrane to be regularly studded with more or less oval patches. These patches are the visible 'scales.' Many "record" lengths are partly due to this folding as, when

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the skin is removed after death, and then measured, the resulting figure is excessive as the skin always stretches.

To judge the length of a snake, especially when it is moving, is extremely difficult even for an experienced snake handler. Men with years of experience can be over 30 per cent. out in their estimate. Ten per cent is quite a common error, and the figures are almost invariably excessive. This is a further reason, in addition to deliberate exaggera­tion, for doubting the length of a snake, vouched for by the person who saw it. Sometimes it is a case of the larger the fright, the longer the snake! Seeing is not always believing.

Whilst on the subject of the length of snakes, here are a few reason­ably authenticated "longests." The Reticulated Python of the Malayan area tops the list with a length of just over 34 feet. A Queensland Scrub Python was recently measured and found to be 28 feet in length. Both the Anaconda of South America and the Indian Rock Python have been known to reach 25 feet. All these lengths are far in excess of nor­mal - giants of their kind in fact. Although less in length than the first two on the list, the Anaconda is the worlds largest serpent, being extremely bulky. A 17 foot specimen is as heavy as a 25 foot Reticulated Python. One of 19 ft. tipped the scales at 240 lbs. and had a 36in. cir­cumference! Among the venomous types pride of place goes to the King Cobra, or Hamadryad, with a length of 18 feet. The Bushmaster of Central America reaches 12 feet and is thus the largest of all vipers. Equal to this is the Black Mamba of Africa, but it is a much slimmer snake. It is also Africa's most deadly. The Taipan, at over ten feet, and the Diamond-back Rattlesnake of S.E., U.S.A., at just under nine feet, completes this list. Just as the length of a python is no indication of size, so with venomous snakes. The King Cobra, for instance, which is a relatively slim snake, is, for a comparable length, twice as thick as a Black Mamba, whilst the Diamond-back Rattlesnake at six feet weighs twelve to fifteen lbs. In a larger specimen the circumference may be 12 inches which would be pushing the King Cobra in actual bulk. Even the big pythons and boas would look mighty small beer compared with an extinct black-fanged serpent whose fossilised remains indicated a length of about 60 feet! At the other extreme the Brahminy Blind Snake of Asia reaches a maximum length of seven inches!!

In nature many harmless creatures owe a great deal of their sur­vival ability to "copying" dangerous animals. This copying can be both in colouration and action, or just one of them. Legless or snake-lizards are always mistaken for snakes by the uninformed. Serpents are them­selves no exception to copying. In the East Indies there are two species of small, venomous, but harmless snakes which when retreating from dan­ger, "attack." Putting their head close to the ground and raising their tail they move slowly away. The tail is blunt and when curved to the correct angle looks like a head. This illusion is heightened by a patch of bright red on the "throat", and the tail being slowly waved to and fro as though about to strike, gives an impression of something quite dan­gerous. It is a habit probably common to the whole genus. Unfortun­ately it is also the practice of a more Ianger species found in the same area, -"OPHIS"

37.

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TALBOTVILLE.

Talbotville, once a mining town, has been of interest to walkers for many years, and they still like to go there although it has been a "ghost town" these last seven years.

Talbotville is situated on the Crooked River, which rises near St. Bernard. It is only eight miles south-west of Grant, which in 1860 was an important mining centre with a population of 3,000 people. Grant is now deserted.

During the early stages of the settlement the mail service came once a week from Harrietville over the Dargo High Plains by horseback to Grant, then to Talbotville. In the winter these services were often de­layed by bad weather or snow. The grocery supplies were all sent over­land from Port Albert, where they were transported from Melbourne by ship. A horse-drawn service operated about once a week. The track followed the main ridges and the drivers came down the best spur to the river fiats of the town to which they wished to deliver their goods. So difficult was transport that one bag of flour in those days cost £50.

TALBOTVILLE - EASTER 1955. -F. Pitt,

Eventually the Mines Department cut a track from Stratford to Dargo, and although at first it was only a bridle track, it was a great improvement on the Port Albert track. In 1890 the Stratford-Dargo­Grant road was cut, enabling a buggy to be used for the tri-weekly mail service. The mail coach left Stratford on Monday and Thursday after­noons. After changing horses at Cobbanah, and having five or six hours' rest, the drivers continued to Dargo, where they arrived on Tuesday and Friday nights. From Dargo via Grant to Talbotville, the service was continued by pack-horse, the mail reaching Talbotville on Wednesday evening.

Groceries were also transported along this route. In 1890, a store­keeper at Talbotville built a trolley three feet wide especially to suit the road conditions, It was drawn by one horse and was used to bring sup

39.

plies to Talbotville from Grant, Two of the big cattle stations, "Eagle Vale" and "Wonangatta," bought all of their supplies from Talbotville.

In 1916, branching off from the Stratford-Dargo Road, a track was cut along the Crooked River, thus enabling supplies of goods and mail to be taken within 9 miles of Talbotville. From here pack horses com­pleted the service. In early spring, when the snow waters came down, a "bridle-track" around the side of the hills had to be used.

Talbotville being on the river was noted mainly for alluvial mining. There was a dredge in use for the mining. The Crooked River was dredged for 3 miles from Little London to Good Hope Creek, but at this stage dredging was held up owing to the type of country. The dredge had been idle for a fortnight when the 1914-18 war broke out. Most of the men left to join the forces, and the dredge was never refloated.

Education in those days was very difficult too. Part of the time there was a part-time school, then later the pupils had to ride about 9 miles to school.

I spent two years at Talbotville with my grand-parents, until they moved to Dargo to live. At that time there was only an old miner living there. Although our nearest neighbour was six miles away, it was never lonely. I would go into Dargo for a week-end about every two months to a ball or anything special that might be on. Sometimes of a Sunday, if it was a nice day, I would saddle my pony and go and visit our neigh­bours. -Frances Traill.

The above article by Miss Frances Traill, of Dargo, is of particular interest, as Miss Traill was resident at Talbotville with her grandparents until the very last days of the town, and her story is thus that of the passing of what was once a notable spot on the Victorian scene.-Ed.

THERE ARE OTHER WAYS INTO TALBOTVILLE!

We had decided that, as I had to get some work on the car finished, we would go away somewhere for whatever part of the Easter holidays was left. When we finally got away about midday Saturday, and decided to go to Talbotville by way of Grant, from the Dargo-St. Bernard Road, we had not studied any detailed maps or notes, and went by an old Broad­bent's "Eastern Victoria." This negligence caused us some hard work later!

We pushed up the steep road from Darga towards Treasure's about eleven next morning, unpacked our packs from the things in the car, had lunch, and set off down the track to Grant. This would have been a good start if it had been the track to Grant instead of an old road detour that brought us out on the road a mile towards Dargo! So into the car again and off in search of the real Grant turn-off. No doubt this time, but it was 3 p.m. when we started off, and the map showed 3! miles to Grant and another 7 to Talbotville. Well, we 'thrashed that track.'

Out to Grant it is quite plain, though well overgrown with light wattles in parts and heavier growth in a couple of saddles, necessitating detours, The track, which must have been a road, undulates easily, if

40.

anything rising a little to Grant. A good description has been given in another Walking Club's magazine. We would have liked more time to examine it, but on that afternoon we hardly stopped.

Now, without a map more detailed than twelves miles to the inch, how were we to find the turn-off to Talbotville. If you came into any strange country town, how would you know which of the streets led to the road to the next town? However, we set off in the general direction­'must have gone up this creek valley and along the western fall of the ridge'-and were extremely fortunate to strike it right. The track is still wide, cut into the hillside, but very heavily overgrown with gum saplings, wattle and smaller scrub. After H miles we came out on to another heavily overgrown saddle with rotting, fallen timber, and had to detour and pick up the track again. When we did find it, there was some doubt -a wide, but obviously very disused track could be traced going up the ridge, and a four-foot track, quite clear, ran along the east fall of the ridge.

All right, let's try the track-so off again at a solid pace, with the shadows around us now, and the sun only on the ridges across the deep valley. Very soon we found the track overgrown with head-high prickly scrub-no alternative but to bash through! And then it began to fall slightly; every walker knows that means a climb on the return trip! On an on, downwards, downwards, a well-graded track, overgrown only enough to slow us up, tired as we were. And now doubts began to assail me: reference to the road map showed something that I had not noticed before-Talbotville is near the river! This must mean a considerable fall, as Grant is obviously high. Perhaps Talbotville isn't right down-! always had the impression that you had to climb after crossing the Crooked River, the way people often detour to Talbotville when coming down from Wonnangatta Station. How tenaciously, stupidly, the mind clings to impressions it wants to hold! No; down-down-down.

By this time, we had reached a turn of the ridge and were now (we guessed) facing the valley of the Wongungarra. Actually it was the Crooked River, and the Wongungarra was in the next valley over. It was almost dark, 6 p.m., so there was no alternative to sleeping where we were. The sides of the ridge were steep, and even the track sloped noticeably. We cleared off the stones, spread groundsheet and sleeping bag,, and lay down, too tired to eat much more than an orange and a biscuit. This is known as 'sleeping on the track.'

The weather was kind: a mild, slightly overcast night, and before sunrise we had packed up, left some of our things at the side of the track, and set off down, down again. In about half an hour we found a trickle of water crossing the track and had some breakfast. This was the only water on the track, though there were several watercourses.

Off again, leaving more things by the track, and expecting to be back to the water for lunch. Down, down, down, with the noise of the river on our right becoming louder and louder, until the track fades into the many tracks on the dry slopes bordering the fiats along the river.

It is plain from the formed tracks everywhere that Talbotville must have been of some size, but apart from the introduced trees and the little graveyard with its half-dozen ill-preserved headstones, all that remains is a couple of buildings: the Post Office-Store, another house, and

41.

some outbuildings. We poked about for an hour, examining the old books, wandering through the buildings, taking photos, and wondering about it all.

But we had to move on; so up with the pack, back up the slopes, past the graveyard, and onto the track again. Do I need to describe for walkers that long, long, upward track with the sun now full on us? Light packs, certainly, but up, up, up. Lunch at 2 p.m., then reluctantly up, up, up, through the prickly scrub, on to the saddle and the wide track again (I found later than the wide track was the road along the ridge and down the Collingwood Spur to Winchester, along which they brought in a dredge. The road was built in past Hawkhurst and Glen Lea to take it out when the golden days were gone) push through the wattle and saplings and scrub and burst into Grant. Sit in the waning sun and wonder, time only for an orange, then push on, steadily on.

We reached the car just at dark, tumbled in and crawled in the dark down the steep, rough, winding road to the first creek at the bottom, where we washed, cooked, ate and-slept!

I hope our Tasmanian friend will pardon my repeating his excellent story about the old-time Scottish preacher who threatened his congre­gation: "And ye'll look up to Heaven in your torment, and ye'll cry, 'Lord, Lord, we didna ken!' And the Lord in His infinite mercy will look doon and say, 'Ah, weel, ye ken noo'!" -Frank Pitt.

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-MOUNTAIN MUSTER-THE KOSCIUSKO STATE PARK is the subject of some interesting

torrespondence reported in Australian Wild Life. Following represent­tions from the Wild Life Preservation Society of Australia regarding the use of bulldozers on the tracks beyond Charlotte Pass, Mr. Hudson, the Chairman of the Snowy Mountains Authority, advised that instruc­tions had now been issued that no tractor was to go beyond Charlotte Pass, and concluded by stating that ". . . the Authority is anxious to avoid permanently matring the beauties of the area' - a very reassuring attitude on the part of an authority in whose keeping at present lies the welfare of a large area so dear to us.

* Further to the above, the same society is agitating for the removal of all stock from the Kosciusko State Park, except perhaps near the Kiandra end. There is only one snow lease left within the S.M.A's. area, but last season (1953 ?) 150,000 sheep and 10,000 cattle were depastured in other parts of the Park.

* Coming off MT. ERICA a few months back a new bulldozed road was met about half way between 'The Rocks' and Ezard's Mill. It zig-zagged along the line of the foot track until adjacent to the mill, where it turned off to join the road to Erica. According to rumour the new road is intend­ed to skirt along the northern slopes of Mt. Erica and link up with the one from Stronach's. It probably will have little effect on the walks in the area, but might prove a nuisance to anyone going up Erica from Ezzard's, as the debris piled up by the bulldozer obscures the track where the road crosses it at each zig or zag. The best scheme would seem to be to follow the road and hope to pick up the track at the final parting of the ways.

* A similar worry besets the short-cut track from PARKER'S CORNER TO THOMPSON BRIDGE. About half-a-mile along the track a newly­formed road eases slightly to the right, then swings left to follow the contour in a wide circle. The old wagon track to the bridge needs watch­ing for; it goes squarely to the right from the new road approximately keeping to the same line as it was holding before meeting up with the newly-formed section. It is understood that the new road offers one con­solation; if you can keep to it you eventually get back to Parker's Corner, and so get a second chance!

* WHERE IS MT. MUELLER? We had always thought that we knew, but when the question was posed by Mr. Norm Freeman, a cattleman taking part in the recent search in the area, while we were poking around east of the Baw Baw hut, we felt less sure. The query had special point as, during the search, the newspapers prominently featured Mt. Mueller on most of their maps. According to Baragwanath's 1908 geological map it is about one mile from Baw Baw on a spur of the Upper Tyers water­shed, and halfway to Mt. Tyers, but this doesn't really fit any peak as seen from the abovementioned location. There are some granite knobs on the southern watershed of the Tyers, and each of these has had its

43.

supporters for the title. However, it would appear that the real claimant must be the slight rise in the abovementioned spur just before it drops to a definite scrubby saddle south-east of Baw Baw; the cliffy knob beyond must be Mt. Tyers. Some observations from the main ridge, say from Gwinnear or Kernot, might be of interest, as it is from this area we once assumed we could pick out Mueller without any doubt.

* DURING RECENT YEARS, when visiting the Wonnangatta area, we have come to rely on Bill McKinley, the genial mailman of the district, to pick us up and transport us between Stratford or Darga and Gibbs' place up the "Crooked River." Now Bill-as he always introduced him­self-has decided to give the travelling away and concentrate on his farming activities at Darga. We will miss his cheery conversation and ready co-operation, but wish him long life and every success-and maye he also pass on to his successor a sympathetic feeling toward the weary and the hopeful as they emerge from, or approach, the fastnesses of the Wonnangatta and Howitt country.

* FOOTNOTE TO EVEREST: From the March, 1954, issue of Scotland's Journal, we cull the following letter which, we feel sure, will be of general interest. It was received in reply to one from a person who was sick of hearing from all the 'experts' who knew just how 'all the high altitude scenes in the film were faked,' and presents the facts to speak for them­selves in refuting such ideas.

"Dear Sir, It is a pity the film people did not make a point of advertising

the film as absolutely authentic. Every scene was filmed on the spot as it actually happened, and when Bourdillon and Evans returned from the South Summit, that filming is a faithful record of their return. None of the scenes, and I repeat none, were taken before or after the event. The scene of the return of the successful climbers is a faithful record of the return, and is indeed so moving that it could not be acted.

"I was the person who filmed most of the climbing sequences, and it is a cause of continual pain to me that people doubt their authenticity. The cine-camera was taken to over 26,000 feet.

"I should be more than grateful if you would join with me in doing your best to spread this news, and would be pleased if you would show this letter to the people who suggested otherwise.

Yours faithfully, GEORGE LOWE,

Expedition Secretary."

As a final note, it is fitting to add the summing-up of Scotland's Journal: "There are many precedents for the touching up of travel films; so it is good to hear again what most of us knew already, that the greatest of them all is absolutely and scupulously authentic. When a work like this is due for immortality, it is well to have its pedigree clear from the start."

44.

Visitors to Quambatt, at the source of the Murray, last summer found interest in the remains of the R.A.A.F. Dakota aircraft which crashed adjacent to the ruins of the old hut in the previous November. Photographs show that little is now left, the aircraft having been burnt subsequent to the crash-which seems a great pity as a more-or-less intact aircraft fuselage might have made a useful shelter in an area where none other is available.

While on the subject of aircraft crashed in the bush, all who are familiar with the Mt. Disappointment area will have been interested in the resurrecting of the story of the aircraft parts lying beside the track from the summit to Tourrourong Reservoir. The front-page newspaper story told of Boy Scouts discovering these parts, and of the authorities organising a party to check on them. One new point that emerged was that the remains were those of a Vultee "Vengeance" that crashed there in 1943. Previously the most that seemed to be known was that the remains were of a U.S. aircraft that crashed there late in the war years. Incidentally, this type of aircraft seems to have been greatly attracted by our landscape during the war as, besides the present one and that which ploughed its way through the Newmarket wool store, there were re­putedly two on Mt. Torbrek-one close to the summit, and another in the Victoria Range of the Grampians.

A jeep track to Mt. Wellington from Briagolong, via Valencia Creek, has penetrated as far as Moroka Flat, five miles or so from the Welling­ton Trig last Xmas, and according to reliable reports was destined to reach the latter point before the summer ended. This is alarming news for all to whom Mt. Wellington has represented one of our most desirable potential National Parks. Although present activity seems to be confined to assessment of timber, particularly the checking of aerial survey assess­ments, on the flanks of Mt. Kent and Snowy Bluff, and although the pre-

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vailing species are reported to be unsuitable types for milling, the danger of spoilation of the Wellington Plateau and Tarli Karng has suddenly assumed alarming proportions. The Victorian National Parks Associa­tion has received advice that no further action is contemplated at present; but undoubtedly a permanent reservation is the only hope of salvation.

The Snowy Mountains Authority now has a well-established camp at Tin Mine and are apparently engaged in gauging the stream flows between Koscuisko and the Victorian border. They have bulldozed a track up the Leatherbarrel Spur to Dinner Flat (as at last Xmas), and the beginning of the foot track is now rather obscure.

Late last summer the heat of newspaper publicity was turned on the Departmental party which travelled from Dandongadale to Dargo, via Wonangatta. As far as can be ascertained their route runs up the Buckland or Buffalo to the crest of the Barry Mountains just west of Mt. Selwyn, then westward along the Divide for a couple of miles before heading down the Humphry to the Wonnangatta. It would be interesting to know more of the details as the above route appears to exclude Ti Tree Spur, the usual bushwalkers' route, and in addition was covered as far as Wonnangatta Station in one day. Admittedly most, but not all, the party were mounted and they arrived around midnight, but it still seems a mighty effort. Some track cutting was done by advance parties, but the main party included a number unused to such tracks. It is understood that the immediate outcome of the trip will be the extension of the Crooked River Road as far as Neate's farm, and later to Eaglevale. A development in the area about which little can be discovered is the com­mencement of stream gauging by the S.E.C. They have erected a flying fox over the river near Mrs. Gibbs' to assist them in transporting equip­ment, but to what end seems a mystery.

Following our last year's note referring to the destruction of the Cobbler huts, Miss Jean Blackburn of the Melbourne Womens' Walking Club, dropped us a note to say that the rumor was unfortunately true, and among other things to mention the potential difficulty of picking up the Rose River track in view of the burnt-out conditions. She says (inter alia) "On a tree near where the huts were is a notice which says 'The Falls' with an arrow. This track crosses the creek and continues through the burnt area, and is very hard to pick up. Now anyone head­ing for Bennie's, and knowing they had to go near the Falls would prob­ally take this track. This of course is not so-from the hut site one has to go across the 'swamp' easterly to pick up the right track. In a few hundred yards this too crosses a creek, a tributary only of the Dandonga­dale, and once across this the track is then very clear." Many thanks to Miss Blackburn, the above hints may save someone a search for the way out, although, as she says late, "Simple-if you know how!"

46.

THE TRACKS THAT BECKON.

It is reported that Alexander the Great cried because there were no more worlds to conquer. This fate seems hardly likely to worry me because if I live to be a hundred there will remain parts of Victoria which I still have to see and tracks which I yet long to tread - even if I spend none of the intervening time outside the borders of our State sampling the delights of what lies beyond.

At times a feeling almost of frustration is apt to assail me as, although launched upon, and enjoying, a walking trip beyond complaint I have to keep looking ahead along the chosen path, and so force myself to forego lots of inviting bypaths and detours that temptingly call other ways. Especially amidst our mountains do we find spurs and valleys beckoning to us to go exploring them, and see where they lead. As­suredly many of them lead to a lot of hard work; but almost certainly many of them also hold unexpected delights :for those who would be persuaded to yield to their call.

Whenever I have passed along the Howitt Plains between The Springs and Howitt Hut I hvae been tugged both eastwards and westwards. To the east a rocky, steep spur descends abruptly to the valley of the Won­nangatta, a spur which attracts because an old mining map shows a track in the same approximate location; north of the present Dry River track but south of Terrible Hollow. Some years ago, while descending from The Viking, we met the river up towards what must be the foot of this spur, and there found quite a good pad, probably still kept clear by cattle. From the present track, on the spur to the south, this spur appears to be barred by a number of rocky outcrops. Was there once a real Mines Department track on this spur? Do remnants of such a track still exist? Or, is the spur even negotiable? These are questions which beg me to answer every time I let myself listen.

In my other ear rings the call of another spur, an adjacent, but much longer one. It leads first to the west then turns south, holding its head high between the valleys of the Macallister and Caledonia rivers. About seventeen miles, as the crow flies, from the Howitt Plains to its termina­tion near The Crinoline, the path of the walker on it would undoubtedly be much longer; Who knows what hidden traps or pleasant surprises its length may hold?

Yes, who knows? • . . And yet it is from such queries that much of the allure of travelling rises. Perhaps one thing may be fairly sure that it does not hold, and that is too much water!

Then, too, there is the Upper Murray country. Often the main route from Limestone or Nunniong to Kossie is traversed; or maybe its main tributary tracks through Groggin or Geehi utilized to shorten or lengthen a trip to suit available time; but seldom do we get a chance to range far off the main track. I still look forward to some day leaving Lime­stone headed for the ridges that lead over Mt. Misery on and up to Mts. Gibbo and Pinnibar, both of them about 5500 ft. high. Their massive humps loom large across the Murray Gorge as we travel to Kossie, yet few have visited them. Pinnibar with its reputedly elusive seven spurs, in particular, is little known, although Elyne Mitchell in "Australia's Alps"

4!1.

records once having ski-ed there. Yes, someday I must go there - and maybe, too, on and over to drop down to Groggin or turn south towards Benambra - or perhaps some other time turn northward from Mt. Misery towards Groggin via Davey's Plain and the Buckwong Valley.

But then, of course, the first spare week I get around these parts I'll probably spent it trying to map the area between Nunniong and Quambat. And it's a pretty good area in which to loaf away a week, with plenty of good campsites besides running streams and open, grassy patches beside creeks, or on mountain tops. Rumor is strong that issue of an Official map of the area is imminent; but rumor has long persisted on this point so we'll wait until "seeing is believing" and go ahead and try to help ourselves should the occasion offer. The area is fairly easily traversed by the pedestrian, or for that matter equestrian, map-maker and lack of a reliable map of the area is only due to a dearth of prominent, identi­fiable landmarks. Apart from the natural keenness to have a map, the making of it would provide an excuse to have a poke around the course of the Limestone (is it a river or a creek? •.. and if so, how do you tell?), There is that mysterious, but well-worn steep zig-zag which leads off the Tin Mine track north of Rest Home Creek, and the nearby good pads along the stream. Are they merely brumby pads - for the area abounds in brumbies - or are they regular cattle pads leading from the old Limestone homestead to Quambatt, and so part of the old Victorian Government track? I suspect the latter; someday I must put this sus­picion to the test.

Another route adjacent to this area which I feel I must tread soon is that along the Snowy River. A mighty stream varying between one and two hundred yards in width, and up to twenty feet deep, to spend a few days walking upstream along it must be a memorable experience, Es­pecially north of McKillop's Bridge, where the hills drop steeply into the stream and its tributaries sneak down unseen until one is almost upon them. Obviously crossing them must often demand care. It is surprising that more do not walk this track; detailed information seems plentiful and the country, with its red hills and little "Christmas tree" Murray Pines, is probably unique in Australia.

Yet even on such a trip, as yet trodden by me only in imagination, I can feel the pull of an unknown track. Just take a peep at the map of the Kosciusko Snow Leases. If you look closely you'll notice a dotted line leading north-west from the river, over The Chimney to the Dividing Range overlooking the Valley of the Cascades. If negotiable, this should be a very interesting track. Some time ago efforts of mine, both here and in Sydney, to discover any details proved abortive. I do know that the Divide thereabouts has a good coating of fallen, fire-killed timber, but someday the chance to find out may come.

Far to the east of the Murray country lies the old goldfields area between Walhalla and Wood's Point. During last century, and the early years of this, mining tracks criss-crossed the area and fossickers worked up every gully that bore a trickle of water. Mt. Useful, approximately in the geographical centre, appears to have been the key to them all, but since the fires of 1939 they have become overgrown and the mountain has sunk into the limbo of the unknown. Today, however, I am told that the

48.

bulldozer has turned its assault in that direction, and soon travelling thereabouts will again be easy, albeit comparatively uninteresting. Before this stage is reached I hope we may find time to explore the existing remnants of the old tracks.

Whenever I've happened to pick up the old Aberfeldy report of the Mines' Department the photo of Mt. Useful, with the residual shoulders of the old pereplain clearly visible, once more makes me long to win "Tatts." The recent Baw Baw search caused my thoughts to quicken when M.M.B.W. ranger Jack Lewis mentioned that he had picked up one of the old mining tracks north of Mt. Gwinnear. These tracks led back to the Thompson, Jordon and Aberfeldy Rivers, and thence to Mt. Useful or out to the Gippsland Plains. Mt. Useful is probably one of the most widely visible of our mountain peaks. It is seen from miles of the rail­way between Traralgon and Sale, or from the Heyfield line. From the Baw Baws, The Crinoline, or Mt. Wellington, it is "just across the way"; but one of the most effective views of it is, surprisingly, from Howitt Hut. Look straight down the plain from the hut and there it is framed sym­metrically in the gap!

-K. Grant.

Not all the tracks that call are in the hills. Years ago one of the stories in R. H. Croll's "Along the Track" intrigued me with its de­scription of a walk along the beaches of East Gippsland. The walk described was done over forty years ago, and I wonder how the beaches have reacted to the touch of time. Somehow, I suspect, from the way the traffic speeds to Melbourne, that the visitor might find them little changed for the greater part of the sixteen-day trip, still pleasant re­treats from the whirr of wheels. The thought of walking continually on sand deters a little, but does not daunt the desire to follow .

. . • and so I wonder just what made Alex. great. To me there seems no possibility of there ever being no new worlds to conquer. The few I

49.

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have mentioned will of themselves keep me interested for many a long year, and they represent only a few drops in the ocean of ideas that swirls in my brain every time I glance at a map and think of the limited time available to me. Wherever I look on the map of Victoria I go wander­ing a new track in prospect. I'm almost afraid to turn the page to one of our sister States, let alone to another country, for each represents a new universe full of new worlds, few of which I can ever hope to conquer.

-NORM. RICHARDS.

EXPLORERS OFF THE TRACK. It is not often that a book merits reviewing upon the occasion of a

reprint, but there are three reasons why Prof. Alex Chisholm's "Strange New World," sub-titled: The Adventures of John Gilbert and Ludwig Leichardt, deserves this honour.

Firstly, it is now fifteen years since the first edition was published, and it has been out of print for almost the whole of the time. Secondly, it is the only worthwhile story of the self-styled Dr. Leichardt, a queru­lous self-opiniated mountebank and humbug, who was able to bluff his way to the leadership of two major expeditions, and whose "leadership" was to end in tragedy for the whole of the last expedition's personnel. Thirdly, the author, during a trip to England to gather further material for an enlarged and revised edition, uncovered hitherto unknown and un­published letters and Gilbert's diary that throw new light on the whole story of Leichardt, and honour the memory of Gilbert, whose work as botanist and ornithologist during his few years in Australia is now, even though belatedly, duly recognised by one whose painstaking research labours has produced in this reviewer's opinion, the finest work of the many written on Australian exploration.

Many of the tragedies of exploration of the Australian continent were due to the incredible stupidity and arrogance of some leaders, and although one must charge Leichardt with both of these failings, to state that Leichardt's contribution to our knowledge of early Australia was unimportant, would be as untrue as it would be absurd. What readers will conclude from Prof. Chisholm's book, and it deserves wide and serious study, is not so much the merit of the work of the early explorers, as what could have been achieved by the many fine men who made up the expeditions had they been capably led; had there been a greater spirit of mateship developed which would have enabled discussions to have been held on the reason for certain decisions being made regarding rate of travel, camping sites, and, above all, where the hell the expedition was going, and what the hell for!

Putting it this way may seem strange; but, with few exceptions, it was the rule rather than the exception that the rank and file did not know from day to day what their leader was about. And in the cases of the Burke and Wills and the Leichardt expeditions, the seconds in com­mand very often did not know in the morning what that day's march would be. Is it any wonder that tragedy played so many grim jokes with those who tempted fate?

"STRANGE NEW WORLD" by A. H. Chisholm. Angus & Robertson, Ltd., Sydney. Price 30/-. -J.'M.

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BALLADS AND THOSE WHO WRITE AND SING THEM. Taking into consideration the youthfulness of Australia, and until

the turn of the century, the smallness of our population, we can proudly boast of our ballads as a true reflection of our grim childhood and exuberant adolescence, and of our balladists as being true sons of the people.

This year has seen the publication of two outstanding collections of ballads: "Australian Bush Ballads" edited by Douglas Stewart and Nancy Keesing, and "Colonial Ballads," collected and edited by Hugh Anderson, with illustrations and musical notations by Ron Edwards.

The Stewart-Keesing book is the first of two projected volumes, and some indication of the work involved and the rich garnerings of this team, may be gauged by the size of the volume under review, which runs to 424 pages. A bibliography, index of first lines, index of authors, and index of ballad titles, gives some idea of how painstakingly the work has been done. Naturally, there is some repetition where such well known balladists as Lawson and Paterson, and some others, have to be included for the sake of continuity; but the collection abounds in much unpublished work, and in work that has not been published for many a long year. We will look forward with some excitement to the second tome from these persevering workers.

Hugh Anderson's work is something unique in Australiana. Almost every ballad carries its own history, short but adequate, making the col­lection a better and more useful collection than any we have yet seen. Where it has been possible the ballads' tunes are given, the history of the tunes and whether traditional, original, or adapted from other songs and ballads, or straightout piracy of well-known tunes of other lands.

While the former work is broad and general, it lacks in its over­looking of an adequate representation of the ballads of the struggle of the gold-miners and shearers, two groups to whose staunch "democatic bias" we owe deep gratitude. On the other hand Hugh Anderson's work is a far better representation of the spirit of '54 and the 90's, and the earlier and grimmer decades of penal settlement. Not that it lacks the joy and warmth of our sunny land. On the contrary, its many glad songs give a balanced perspective to our history as recorded by our balladists.

Ron Edwards' fine drawings that illustrate so many of the pages of this book are a joy and delight, and breathe the very atmosphere of the ballads themselves. These are two very fine books; but were I able to afford only one I should certainly buy "Colonial Ballads." ............ "AUSTRALIAN BUSH BALLADS," Stewart & Keesing;

Angus & Robertson Ltd., Sydney. Price 30/-. "COLONIAL BALLADS," Hugh Anderson, Ramskull Press, Lower Ferntree Gully, Vic. Price 29/6. -J.M.

ALL ACCORDING TO HOYLE. In 1953 we mentioned Fred Hoyle's little book "The Nature of the

Universe." There now comes a book from the same author expanding the ideas of the previous book and rounding out the story of the building of our universe and its creatures. Those of us who find such a topic of interest will enjoy the lively expression of the author's views and theories

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no less than they will the great mass of scientific facts and data so well collated and ably presented. Some of the theories are not universally accepted, but somehow the author seems to manage to stick to his guns without being too dogmatic. Despite his enthusiasm he still acknowledges that the other fellow might be right. The book is magnificently illustrated, the various astronomical photos being particularly well selected, and is easily worth the money in anyone's budget. , -N.R.

"FRONTIERS OF ASTRONOMY," by Fred Hoyle. Heine­mann. Australian Price 31/-.

"THE STRZELECKIS" "The Strzeleckis", the range of South Gippsland hills named after

the famed Polish explorer, Count Strzelecki, who first struggled through these domed, steeply-sloping rain forests in 1840.

Great is the variety in this fine walking country, ranging from verdant farmland slopes and valleys, to heavily timbered rain forests, waterfalls, distant outlooks and lovely blackwood groves.

MORWELL RIVER - APEX PARK, NEAR BOOLARA -F. Halls.

At Christmas-time, these ranges are particularly attractive, as then the warm sun at certain positions seems to make the blackwoods glow, and the streams are lined with fragrant flowering Christmas Bush, whilst in many places the gold of the fireweed covers the hills.

The gems of these hills are the twin National Parks of Tarra Valley and Bulga Park.

55.

Tarra Valley Park, 241 acres in extent, is situated on the southern slopes of the range near the head of the Tarra River, two miles from the Grand Ridge Road at Moorefield's Saddle, and 16 miles from Yarram.

This National Park, loveliest of Victorian rain forest gullies, is much too small, and should be increased to include the magnificent stands of young mountain ash behind the present park and higher up the valley.

To reach this spot, continue up the track on the left side of the creek past the falls; follow the creek until the ground flattens and the forest becomes nature's cathedral of tall white mountain ash, semi-parklike in character, in which the liquid tones of the lyre bird are often heard. Continuing to wander upwards in a north-easterly direction through this lovely forest, the walker will arrive at Balook, 21 miles from Tarra Valley.

At a distance of ! miles from Balook, in a forest of giant white mountain ash, lies Bulga Park, 91 acres, much smaller in size than Tarra Valley, but exquisitely lovely.

The tracks are cut through the gully between ash, beeches, sassafras, hazel and treeferns, and at one point a suspension bridge spans the lovely gully and its lush growth.

The Bulga Park is also much too small, and here again could also include a stand of very large mountain ash trees adjacent to the Grand Ridge Road, towards the junction with the Traralgon Road. An estimate of the average height of these trees is 250 feet.

Many waterfalls abound in the ranges, the best being the Agnes Falls, near W elshpool, and the Tarra River Falls, a mile south of the Park.

At this point, about half a mile below the falls, where the road swings north, is possibly the finest view in the whole ranges; below, and to the left, lies the river valley surrounded by giant trees, and in the distance, a half mile away, shows the snowy plume of the falls. Ahead, and to the right, lies the verdant greenery of a beech grove, and a high bank of rain forest vegetation.

Along the course of the upper reaches of the Albert River, near Hiawatha, are many beautiful gullies; but care should be taken when following the ccurse of the river owing to the sometimes treacherous footing of the precipitous banks.

In one gully in particular, the vegetation is probably the original unspoiled blackwood grove, intermingled with vines, elkhorn ferns, sassa­fras and treeferns, while far below the Albert River winds between the steep hills.

From a hill above the Albert River, a panorama of the whole valley may be obtained, with the road and the river snaking away into the distance.

One of the best views in the ranges is obtained from a hilltop to the west of the Dingo Creek Road, two and a halfmiles from the Grand Ridge Road. From here, Corner Inlet and the mountains of the "Prom." can be clearly seen on a fine day, as well as the verdant farmlands and check­ered hill paddocks of W onyip.

The upper reaches of Turton's Creek have much to offer the walker, with steep, high hills, narrow valley and shady glens; and in particular, the fern gullies near Woorara West are very good and worthy of a visit.

Although the area around Mt. Best is mostly open farmlands, the 56.

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58.

view from the top is very fine, while to the west and north in Henwood's Gorge and the Franklin River valley is another beautiful stretch of coun­try. In Henwood's Gorge, the Franklin River winds between tall ash, blackwoods and ferns through the steep-sided gorge.

"The Strzeleckis" as the home of the beautiful blackwoods, the finest of our native trees, reaches its peak of loveliness in the southern end of the Morwell River valley, where the blackwoods grow in dense groves welcoming with deep shade on bot summer days.

Sassafras, hazel and ferns of all kinds, grow densely in these thickets, while the crystal clear waters of the Morwell River cascade and sparkle northwards. This green valley and its stretches of beautiful river, is one of the best in these ranges of beautiful valleys. It may be traversed by any of several bush roads, but the best approach is from Wistaria, travel­ling northwards towards Boolarra.

At this stage, I feel the necessity to reiterate that there be set aside as National Parks areas such as the blackwood forest in the Morwell River valley, approximately two miles north-northeast of Gunyah, or another gully a mile north of Hiawatha near the Albert River. Another area possibly worthy of consideration is Turton's Creek, near Woorara West.

It seems totally inadequate that the two small areas at present reserved as National Parks (total acreage approx. 300 acres, or less than i square mile) represent the only areas reserved in these ranges for the enjoyment of future generations.

Because of the great density of some of the valley growths, it is advisable to remain mostly on the tracks, cart tracks, or bush roads, when traversing the area. It is literally laced with dozens of back bush roads, so that there is no necessity to tramp the ranges by means of the main roads.

In the western part of the Strzeleckis, the ranges are mostly more settled, but dozens of fine views are obtainable from the high hills, across the patchwork of hill pastures and paddocks of chocolate soil interspersed with bush areas and patches of fireweed and bracken. Fred Halls.

WEEK-END WALK. WILD DOG CREEK ROAD - KORUMBURRA

Distance-20 miles (approx.) The Strzelecki Ranges offer good walking to anyone who likes to

see, where he is going. The area formerly covered with some of the highest trees in Victoria, full of wild life-"Wild Strzelecki"-has been converted to pastures and little wildness is left.

We left the Korumburra-Warragul Road about 1 mile N.E. of South Strzelecki at the wild Dog Creek Road turn oft' and followed Wild Dog Creek Road up Ross Hill, the top of which is a few yards oft' the road and offers good views over the area as far as the Baw Baws, Leongatha and the hills around Foster.

From here we kept along the ridge going North-West for i mile, where it turns N.E. and followed it-keeping this general direction­right down to the entrance of Wild Dog Creek Gorge. Here we hit the Old Leongatha Road, which used to be quite good in its time, however

59.

it is rather overgrown and wild now and provides interesting walking through the attractive gorge.

Dropping gradually as we went along the road, we left it temporarily to have lunch at the creek (appr. 1 mile from the entrance of the gorge) and continued along the road, keep close to the creek most of the time. The valley gradually opens again and we picked up Wild Dod Creek Road (app. 5 miles from entrance of gorge). We followed it South along the creek for about 1 mile and camped at a delightful spot amongst wattle trees near a little waterfall.

Next morning we kept along down the Wild Dog Creek for about 2 miles, till it joined Wilkur Creek, and turned to the East. We went up Wilkur Creek to the West for approx. H miles then turned South and climbed up the spur that brought us up to the top of the ridge on to the Arawata-Leongatha Road. Again quite good views are obtained from here. Following the road to the West for about 200 yards we turned off it South-West and dropped into the Upper Ruby Creek Valley where we had lunch at the creek. Unfortunately we could not see a Reservoir mark­ed at the map at i mile down the creek-a point that could be further investigated.

However, we followed the creek up about 1t miles-going W.S.W.­crossed the Arawata-Korumburra Road at a little saddle and dropped along the little creek West of the road down to Koalition Creek which was finally followed up into Korumburra.

BULLARTO - LERDERDERG RIVER - BLUE MOUNTAIN -TRENTHAM - 15 MILES.

This walk to the undeservedly neglected upper reaches of the Lerder­derg River could be conveniently carried out as a day walk if at least nine hours were available between the arrival of the train at Bullarto and the departure of the return train from Trentham. As the present Sunday train time-table allows less than 7 hours clear walking time, it is more advisable to leave Melbourne by the midday train on Saturday which reaches Bullarto just after 3 p.m.

Walk south from the station across the railway line and turn left into a road leading south-east in the direction of Coghland's Hill. Just under 1 mile from the station, where a pine plantation on the right comes to an end, turn south into a dirt road for t mile, then east on a road leading in ! miles to a farm house. Turn south again near the farm house, taking care to keep on the eastern side of the valley of Cooper's Creek. After a short while the creek enters into timbered country, and soon afterwards a track running parallel with the creek on the eastern side of the valley can be picked up. The track is overgrown and badly defined at first, but it gets clearer and better defined as one progresses further south. At 2 miles from the farm house it crosses a timber tram, and a few yards further it fords the Lerderdeg River at the very spot where Cooper's Creek and Crowley Creek join to form the Lerderderg River. (The timber tram crosses the river on a half-collapsed bridge slightly further downstream.) The southern bank of the ford provides a suitable camp site for a small party ( 4 miles from Bullarto).

From the camp site the tram line, as well as a new forestry road, 60.

run parallel with the river on its southern side. Start walking south-east on either of them. After ! mile Nolan's Creek is crossed. At this spot there is a grassy clearing with a built-up fireplace which can be used as an alternate camp site if the one at the junction of Cooper's Creek and Crowley Creek should be considered unsuitable, especially in the case of a large party. Soon after crossing Nolan's Creek the road reaches the site of a former saw-mill, where it turns south, away from the Lerder­derg River. From the saw-mill continue on a fairly clear track, still keeping on the southern side of the river. Immediately after crossing Loam Creek (just over i mile from the saw-mill) the track is joined by the tram line which ran on the northern side of the river for the last i mile or so. After a further i mile the track crosses Green Gully on a long wooden bridge, and immediately beyond the bridge a wide track branches off to the left, crossing the Lerderderg at a ford (just over 2 miles from camp site). If the walk is undertaken as a day walk, it will save time to continue on this track from the ford, going up the spur first north, then north-north-east, until it rejoins our route at its junction with the Blackwood-Trentham Road, 2 miles from the ford.

Below the ford no tram line or track follows the river, but by keep­ing to the river bed (if the river is not running too high) or to the bush as near as possible to the river, one should not find progress particularly difficult. This is the most delightful part of the walk, and it may be con­tinued as far as one desires and time permits. It is suggested to have lunch just beyond the junction with Tram Creek (H miles from the ford, 3l miles from camp site) and then to climb up the spur on the northern side of the valley. Where the first steep part of the climb comes to an

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end at a false top, a bulldozer traek will be found which runs north-north­west along the crest of the spur and joins the Blackwood-Trentham Road near a small farm house on the southern side of a clearing (H- miles from lunch site). Follow the road north for just under 1 mile to the end of the forest, then turn east-south-east into a farm road and later continue in the same direction without a road across paddocks and finally up the tim­bered slope to the summit of Blue Mountain (just under 1 mile from the Blackwood-Trentham Road). From the lookout tower there is a fine view over the Lerderderg country, Mt. Blackwood, Mt. Macedon and Mt. Alexander.

From Blue Mountain follow the telephone line down, first north and then north-north-east. After some distance the telephone line joins a track which later widens into a forestry road and finally joins the Black­wood-Trentham Road, leading into Trentham in just under 4 miles from Blue Mountain (11 miles from camp site).

If sufficient time is available, a visit to the Trentham Falls is well worth while. The falls are situated in the lightly-timbered valley of the Coliban River, and the water falls freely approximately 80 feet into a gorge. Go from Trentham station north across paddocks for i mile to the junction of a secondary road (running east to west) with a dirt road leading north in just over 1 mile to the falls (which are just beyond the end of the Daylesford D map). Return to the station by the same route.

MAP REFERENCE: Topographical Maps (Scale i mile to 1 inch; obtainable from the Lands Department) of Daylesford C and D Trentham Falls are on the Daylesford B Map).

NOTES COMPILED: 1955. -H.W.

* MT. TANGLEFOOT-MT. ST. LEONARD- MAROONDAH RESER-VOIR- HEALESVILLE, VIA MEYERS CREEK OR CONDON'S GULLY Via Myers Creek: 10 Miles. Via Condon's Gully: 12 miles.

If private transport is available to Mt. Tanglefoot, either variation of the above trip offers excellent views with easy walking. However, it should only be undertaken in the warmer months when the longer daylight hours compensate for the late start from Mt. Tanglefoot, usually brought about by the longish trip from the city the same morning.

There are two road approaches to Mt. Tanglefoot from Healesville, one via Meyers Creek Road, John's Junction and Barnes Junction to the Tanglefoot Forestry camp; or the slightly better, though longer, route via Chum Creek Road to Toolangi, Meyers Fall Road, then Sylvia Creek Road to the Forestry Camp.

Approximately i mile back along the Sylvia Creek Road from the Forestry Camp, an old road branches off to the left and sidles around Mt. Tanglefoot for approx. i mile to a ridge to the east, when an obvious clearing leads off the old road and up to a clearly defined track up the ridge (W) to the old wooden tower at the top of the mountain (height approx. 3300 ft.). From the tower excellent views are to be had on a clear day.

Retrace your steps to the old road and follow this generally south. Almost immediately the old road becomes overgrown with bracken and partially blocked by logs, but the route is always obvious, i.e , cleared of timber and keeps to the top of the ridge. In the first few minutes a small

62.

stream is crossed on the remnants of an old bridge, and this could be quite a pleasant spot for an early lunch. For a mile or so the old track wan­ders along the ridge in fairly thick timber and bush, dropping into one or two gullies, but keeping generally south. In about two miles the ridge "opens" a little and patchy views to the east are obtained. Soon after­wards the track climbs and enters a stand of tall timber on the north slope of Mt. St. Leonard, then passes through signs of timber cutting, and in about another mile joins the road connecting John's corner and Tanglefoot. In half a mile south, this road passes the M.M.B.W. entrance gate that gives access to the St. Leonard Tower, and then drops down to John's Corner in about 2 miles.

Water for lunch is obtainable approximately l mile down the road towards John's Junction. If the M.M.B.W tower is manned (i.e., during the fire danger period), extensive views can be obtained of the sur­rounding mountains and the Melbourne plain.

From this point, if time is short, Healesville can be reached in approx. 2i hours by heading directly towards Healesville down the fire break along a well-defined track. Though downhill all the way, this walk can be very pleasant.

The alternative but longer route starts off by retracing your steps along the road which circles around east to Barnes Junction; the last mile being a little pleasanter if the fire break branching off to the right from the road, and running parallel to it, is followed. From Barnes Junction, follow the M.M.B.W. road (or track) that heads S.E. for approx. H miles to a point about 30 to 50 yards before the road takes a sharp turn to the left (N.E.) at its most southerly point, where the track to Condon's Gully heads off in a S W. direction. The beginning of this track is a narrow opening in thick scrub, and may be overlooked at first glance, but the sharp turn in the road is quite definite and cannot be missed. The track descends fairly rapidly through thick bush and is well marked and blazed until it opens out into a wide firebreak, which, in turn, soon leads into a cart track. (By turning sharp left (N.E.) through some upright posts at the junction of the firebreak with the cart track, the Condon's Gully water can be reached in a few minutes). Con­tinue down the valley H miles (S.S.W.), from the junction of the fire­break and the cart track, to the beginning of the Maroondah Aqueduct. Cross a low ridge to the S.E. and in a few minutes the Maroondah Dam will be reached. -W.H.

DAY TRIP (By Rail) TYNONG - CORNUCOPIA - NAR NAR GOON

Distance - Approx. 15 Miles. At the time of writing this trip may be done of a Sunday by taking

the 9.05 a.m. train to Tynong, and returning to Melbourne on the 8.05 p.m. train from Nar Nar Goon.

From Tynong R.S. proceed N on earth road to Prices Highway (638058) in about 1 mile. About 200 yards west along the highway an­other road leads N. Follow this road for about i mile to crossroads (636074). Go slightly left, then uphill to where a house is visible, skirt­ing around the property and heading N.W. towards the Bunyip Aqueduct

63.

which will be reached near the point (639086). Follow the aqueduct to the right (E), turning northerly around the hill. About one mile along the aqueduct two wire fences are met. The road, as shown on the map, does not exist; but follow the aqueduct for a further 200 yards and then, as the houses pass from view make for the main road visible a short distance away on the right. Turn S along this road and in about :five minutes "Cornucopia" will be reached. The "Wayside Museum," a collection owned by Max Weatherhead, is worth a visit. Best lunch spot is l mile back up the road on the aqueduct behind the sawmill (646103).

After lunch follow the aqueduct back to the bend (640112) and cross on bridge. A second bridge is soon crossed (638108), then keep a sharp lookout for a narrow track on the right running westerly. This leads to a wider track. Follow the latter approx. NW uphill until in about i mile of a wire fence is met (627123). Almost 1/4 mile beyond the fence is the top of an 800 ft. hill with a huge granite rock - and innumerable mosquitoes. (625126). Returning to the wire fence, follow it westerly for about !-mile, crossing a small creek, until the unmade road shown on the map is met. Follow this southerly and then south-westerly for about 1-1/4 miles. A house will then be seen on the ridge to the right (366103). A track from the house leads to a road (the roads are not quite as shown on the map). Go right along this road, crossing under the telephone lines which follow the line of the aqueduct (here in underground pipes) and in 1/4 mile turn S for about 1-1/4 miles to the power transmission line (607072). Here turn right (W) and follow the power line crossing a creek in about i mile and reaching a main road about 1/4 mile beyond (590072). The creek crossing is about the only hard spot on the trip. Follow the road southerly, reaching the Princes Highway in about i mile and Nar Nar Goon R.S. in a further mile .

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PICTURE YOUR BUSH- WALKING

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Green fern gullies, towering timber, a rugge d mountain side, the good companions that walk beside you - these are subjects for snapshots you'll always treasure.

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