Photo #1a, 1b & 1c: Themechanical clutch linkage startsat the clutch pedal swing armunder the dash with a pushrodthat routes through the firewalland connects to the cross shaftbetween the frame and thebellhousing bracket. A secondpushrod connects the crossshaft to the clutch fork. This allworks fine when everything is in good condition, but once onepart starts to wear the complete system can become sloppy.The clutch linkage also eats up a lot of engine compartmentroom which can limit your choice of headers.

by Randy Irwin

1955-57 HYDRAULIC CLUTCH INSTALLATION

Parts Needed: Catalog price Member price

08-500 Muncie Hydraulic Clutch System $699.99 $649.95 kit08-501 Saginaw Hydraulic Clutch System 699.99 649.95 kit08-502 T10 Hydraulic Clutch System 699.99 649.95 kit08-503 T15 Hydraulic Clutch System 699.99 649.95 kit

To order parts call 1-800-456-1957 or visit ClassicChevy.com

Tools Needed: 1/2” Wrench9/16” Wrench3/8” Ratchet1/2” Socket9/16” Socket

When automobiles were first built in the 1880’s, they had mechanicalclutch linkage. Your manual transmission classic ’55-’57 still has clutchtechnology that is 125 years old! It’s time to update that antiquated clutchlinkage with a state-of-the-art hydraulic clutch system. Installing ahydraulic clutch system will not only remove all of that ugly, clunky clutchlinkage and clean up the engine compartment and firewall, it will also giveyou increased clearance in the engine compartment for custom headersand exhaust. The new Hydraulic Clutch System includes a small mastercylinder that mounts up under the dash out of sight. Our system uses ahydraulic release bearing so that the mechanical clutch fork in thebellhousing is also removed for an even cleaner installation. This systemwill work with a three finger type pressure plate or a diaphragm typepressure plate.

Time Frame: 4-Hours

Randy Irwin - Technical WriterRandy has been involved in the Chevy

parts business for over 25 years. He is a wiz-ard at creating, making and modifying customparts for Chevys.

Photo #2: The clutch forkfits through a hole in thebell housing on thedriver’s side and connectsto the mechanical release(throw out) bearing. Thenew hydraulic clutchsystem eliminates all ofthe clutch linkage, clutchfork and release bearing.

08-500 Installed

08-500

1a 1b

1c

Photo #3: The hydraulic clutchmaster cylinder mounts to the topof the brake pedal swing armassembly under the dash. Bymounting the master cylinderunder the dash and not out on thefirewall, the engine compartmentwill remain nice and clean. On1955 and 56 cars, one hole mustbe drilled and on 1957 cars two holes must be drilled in thebrake pedal swing arm assembly. To complete this, theassembly will need to be unbolted and removed from the car.

Photo #6: Beforeinstalling the new clutcharm, make sure thebushings on the clutchshaft are in good shape.If the shaft is wobbly, thebushings are bad. Toreplace the bushings,slide the pedal shaft out of the pivot sleeve and install two P/N08-18 bushings Be sure to lightly grease the bushings.

Photo #4: The stock clutchpedal swing arm has a returnspring and bracket that willneed to be removed. Thereturn spring bracket is boltedto the clutch pedal arm withtwo 9/16” bolts.

Photo #5a & 5b: The clutch pedal pushrod arm is splined tothe clutch pedal shaft and secured with a 9/16” bolt, nut andlock washer. The stock arm will be replaced with a new billetarm for the hydraulic master cylinder.

Photo #9: Bolt the bracket tothe top of the pedal assemblyand square up the front of thebracket to the new clutchpedal arm.

Photo #10a, 10b & 10c: Usingthe bracket as a guide, drillthe second 3/8” hole in thepedal assembly and bolt thebracket in place.

Photo #11a & 11b: On the 1957 pedal assembly both 3/8” holesmust be drilled for the clutch master cylinder bracket. The rearedge of the bracket should be located 2-7/8” from the rear edgeof the pedal assembly. The original support rods from the pedalassembly to cowl will no longer be used.

5a 5b

Photo #7a & 7b: Install the aluminum bushing in the kit ontothe clutch arm shaft. Next install the billet aluminum clutchmaster cylinder arm. Make sure the offset of the arm is towardthe left (driver side) of the pedal assembly. The arm is held tothe shaft with an Allen head bolt and lock nut that will pass overthe flat cut in the clutch pedal shaft just like the original arm.

7a 7b

Photo #8: The clutch master cylinderbracket bolts to the top of the pedalassembly with two 9/16” x 1” bolts,lock washers and nuts. There is anexisting hole on the 1955 and 56 pedalassembly that can be used for one ofthe mounting holes for the clutchmaster cylinder bracket.

10a 10b

10c

11a 11b

Photo #12: Theclutch mastercylinder bolts to themaster cylinderbracket with two5/16” X 1-1/4” boltswith lock nuts.

Photo #13a & 13b: The master cylinder is equipped with athreaded pushrod. The 3” long spring provided should beinstalled onto the pushrod shaft first. Screw the coupler ontothe shaft to connect the master cylinder pushrod to the clutchpedal arm. Make sure the flat side on the coupler is facing awayfrom the master cylinder.

13a 13b

Photo #14a & 14b: The pushrod shaft for the master cylinder can be turned so that clutch pedalheight can be adjusted. This can be done on the bench.

14a

14b

Photo #15: Once the clutchpedal height is set, lock themaster cylinder pushrod tothe coupler using the 5/16”fine thread nut and flatwasher.

Photo #16a & 16b: Install the cotter pin and washer to hold thecoupler to the clutch pedal arm. The pedal assembly is ready tobe installed back under the dash.

16a 16b

Photo #17: With the pedal assemblyback in the car, the clutch mastercylinder will be to the right of the gaugecluster allowing clearance for the stockgauge cluster as well as any aftermarketgauge cluster. The stock wipertransmission cables and the updatedRaingear system will clear as well.

Photo #18: The hydraulicrelease bearing fits on thefront bearing retainer on anythree, four, five or six-speedstandard transmission.

Photo #19: The releasebearing is adjustable in lengthso that it can be used with adiaphragm or three fingertype pressure plate. A setcollar on the release bearingmay be adjusted in or out toset the proper clearancebetween the release bearingand pressure plate.

18

19

Photo #20a & 20b: The adjusting collar for the release bearinghas two o-rings on the inside bore so that it will not spin.Lubricate the o-rings with a light oil and install the collar ontothe front bearing retainer. The beveled side of the collar installsagainst the transmission face.

20a 20b

Photo #21: Next installthe release bearing ontothe adjusting collar byturning the bearingclockwise until the rearface of the bearingbottoms out on the frontbearing retainer bolts.

Photo #22: Measure theclearance between therelease bearing and thepressure plate. To makethe release bearingwork properly, theremust be no less than.100” and no more than.300” between thebearing and pressureplate. First measure thedistance from the front of the gear box to the front of therelease bearing. Our project car had a measurement of 3”.

Photo #29: The clutch mastercylinder will bleed just like abrake master cylinder. Withthe master cylinder filled,pump the pedal four or fivetimes and hold the pedal tothe floor. Now open thebleeder on the #4 hose fromthe release bearing allowingthe air to escape. Do thisseveral times until all the air is bled from the system.

Photo #23: Next measure thedistance from the face of thebellhousing to the fingers onthe pressure plate. Our projectcar had a measurement of 2-7/8”. By subtracting 2-7/8” fromthe 3” measurement we findthat we have 1/8” (.125”)clearance between the release

bearing and the fingers of the pressure plate, this is within thetolerances required for the release bearing. If your measure-ment is not .100” to .300” turn the entire bearing assemblyclockwise or counterclockwise full turns until the propermeasurement is obtained.

Photo #24: There are two fittingson the release bearing. The upperfitting is for bleeding thehydraulic system. A 12” long #4steel braided hose is installed onthis fitting with a bleeder fittingon the end. The lower fitting isfor the supply hose from themaster cylinder. The kit includes a60” long #4 Teflon steel braided hose that connects the releasebearing to the clutch master cylinder. Connect the straight endof the #4 hose to the lower fitting on the release bearing.

Photo #25: With the two hosesconnected to the release bearingand the bearing installed onto thefront bearing retainer, thetransmission may be installed. Feedthe two hoses out through the holein the side of the bellhousing wherethe clutch fork was installed andbolt the transmission into place.

Photo #26: The supply hose canbe routed through the firewall inany desired location. Make surethe hose is kept away from anymoving parts or hot exhaust.The kit includes a grommet sothat the hose will be protectedas it passes through the firewall.

Photo #27a & 27b: The 90-degree end on the hose from therelease bearing connects to the #4 fitting on the mastercylinder.

Photo #28a, 28b & 28c: Witheverything installed it is time toput brake fluid in the clutchmaster cylinder. Use ONLYDOT 3 brake fluid and notsilicone brake fluid. Usingsilicone brake fluid will damagethe release bearing and void anywarranty. If the gauge cluster isremoved, there is room to get acontainer of brake fluid up tothe master cylinder top to fill the master cylinder. Fill it towithin 1/2” of the top. If there is not enough room to get acontainer of brake up to the master cylinder use the suppliedsqueeze ball and hose to fill the master cylinder. Spread agarbage bag out on the floor of the car to protect the carpet.

Photo #30a & 30b: Once all the air has been removed, therelease bearing will move forward 1/2” to disengage the clutch.This amount of movement is enough to adequately disengage athree finger or diaphragm style pressure plate.

Using a couple of zip-ties, tie the two #4 steel braided hosestogether so that the hoses cannot make any contact with thepressure plate when the engine is running. Enjoy your newsmoothly operating clutch system using 21st centurytechnology! Good Luck!

27a

27b

28a 28b

28c

30a 30b

by Randy Irwin

1955-57 HYDRAULIC CLUTCH UPDATE

Parts Needed: Catalog price Member price

08-500 Muncie 4-Speed Hydraulic Clutch Kit $699.99 $664.99 kit08-501 Saginaw 4-Speed Hydraulic Clutch Kit 699.99 664.99 kit08-502 T10 4-Speed & Richmond 5/6-Speed Hydraulic Clutch Kit

699.99 664.99 kit08-503 T5 Hydraulic Clutch Kit 699.99 664.99 kit08-505 Tremec 5/6-Speed Hydraulic Clutch Kit 699.99 664.99 kit08-100 Muncie Hydraulic Release Bearing 369.99 351.49 ea08-101 Saginaw Hydraulic Release Bearing 369.99 351.49 ea08-102 Richmond Hydraulic Release Bearing 369.99 351.49 ea08-103 T5 Hydraulic Release Bearing 369.99 351.49 ea08-105 Tremec Hydraulic Release Bearing 369.99 351.49 ea

To order parts call 1-800-456-1957 or visit ClassicChevy.com

Tools Needed: 5/16” Allen Socket9/16” Sockets and Ratchet

Torque WrenchSilicone

Eckler’s Classic Chevy first introduced the hydraulic clutch system forthe Tri-Fives in the October 2006 Classic Chevy World magazine. At thattime the hydraulic release bearing available was more or less a universalstyle bearing that would fit various transmissions. The manufacturer hasnow developed a new release bearing that is custom fit to each type oftransmission. It is both a hydraulic release bearing and front bearingretainer, so it will replace the stock front bearing retainer completely.

Time Frame: 4-Hours

Randy Irwin - Technical WriterRandy has been involved in the Chevy

parts business for over 25 years. He is a wiz-ard at creating, making and modifying customparts for Chevys.

Photo #3a & 3b: To remove the bearing retainer, first bend thetabs back on the bolt retaining plates and remove the fourbolts. Using a plastic mallet, tap on the neck of the retainer andthe retainer will break free from the transmission.

08-104

08-500Installed

Photo #1a & 1b: The old universal style release bearing fit ontothe stock front bearing retainer. It used an adjustable collarthat screwed into the bearing. This collar was used for settingthe bearing to pressure plate clearance.

Photo #2: Theoriginal frontbearing retainer isbolted to the frontof the transmission.A Muncietransmission uses 4,3/8” bolts; othertransmissions mayhave five or sixbolts.

#3a

08-100 08-101

#3b

#1a #1b

Photo #4: The release bearingP/N 08-100 for a Muncie ismachined to fit over the fronttransmission bearing and has aseal that seals to the front of thetransmission. This entire assemblyreplaces the old bearing retaineryou just removed. Each stylehydraulic release bearing iscustom designed to fit your

specific transmission in the same manner.

Photo #5a & 5b & 5c:Before installing thehydraulic releasebearing, the manufac-turer recommendsputting a thin coat ofsilicone sealer on theface of the bearing andnot using the stockbearing retainer gasket.Using the suppliedsocket head bolts, boltthe retainer to thefront of the

transmission and torque the bolts to 18 ft/lbs. Connect the hose from the release bearing to the master

cylinder and bleed the system. Using a hydraulic releasebearing will eliminate sloppy clutch linkage and clearance forall types of headers will be greatly improved since the linkage isremoved! Good Luck.

#5a

#5b

#5c

#08-500 #08-150

by Randy Irwin

Parts List: Catalog price Member price

08-500 Hydraulic Clutch System (Muncie) $699.99 $664.99 kit08-501 Hydraulic Clutch System (Saginaw) $699.99 $664.99 kit08-502 Hydraulic Clutch System

(T-10 & Richmond) $699.99 $664.99 kit08-503 Hydraulic Clutch System (T-5) $699.99 $664.99 kit08-505 Hydraulic Clutch System (Tremec) $699.99 $664.99 kit08-150 Hydraulic Master Cylinder Kit $359.99 $341.99 kit

Tools Needed: Drill & 3/16” Drill Bit

Time Frame: 4 hours

1955-57 HYDRAULIC CLUTCH SYSTEM ARM UPDATE

Not everything on your 1955-57 is still within factory tolerances after 50years. When installing the aluminum clutch master cylinder arm for thenew hydraulic system, the clutch pedal shaft must be in pretty goodshape; many times it is not. The first design aluminum arm for thehydraulic clutch system considered that the shaft was “as new”. The shafthas a bolt that uses the flat on the clutch shaft to keep the arm fromrotating when the pedal is depressed. If either the shaft or the flat are inpoor shape, the arm will move on the shaft and the clutch master cylinderwill not operate properly. The anchoring design of the new clutch arm hasbeen changed so that it can be used on a shaft that is in perfect shape orone that is not so perfect!

Photos 1a & 1b: The original clutch linkage arm for themechanical clutch linkage was held to the clutch pedal shaft witha squeeze bolt. The bolt passes over a flat in the clutch pedalshaft and when tightened will squeeze the arm tight on the shaft.

1a 1b

Photos 2a & 2b: Theclutch linkage arm isnotorious for coming looseand rotating on the shaft.When this happens, itrounds out the flat on the

shaft and damages the splines on the arm. Here you can seewhere someone was so desperate to keep there arm in place theywelded the arm to the shaft.

2a 2b

Photo 3: The aluminum clutch arm used in the firstdesign hydraulic clutch system uses a through-boltthat passes over the flat of the shaft to lock the armto the shaft. The flat must be in good condition tokeep the arm from rotating and as you can see, thatis not always true.

Photos 4a & 4b: With abad flat on the shaft,the arm can rotate up to10-degrees. With thismuch movement in the

arm, the pushrod from the clutch master cylinder to the armcannot be adjusted properly.

4a 4b

Photos 5a & 5b: The through-bolt on the aluminum clutch armhas now been replaced with a 3/16" dowel pin to lock the clutcharm to the shaft. A 3/16" hole will be drilled through the clutchpedal shaft and a 3/16" +.001" dowel pin is installed to anchorthe arm to the clutch shaft.

5a 5b

Randy Irwin - Technical WriterRandy has been involved in the Chevy

parts business for over 25 years. He is a wiz-ard at creating, making and modifying customparts for Chevys.

Photos 6a & 6b: Install the clutch pedal pivot sleeve and thespacer that is supplied with the hydraulic clutch system onto theclutch shaft. Next, install the arm onto the clutch shaft. Theclutch shaft will protrude through the arm about 1/16". The arminstalls so it is parallel with the clutch pedal arm.

6a 6b

Photos 7a & 7b: The arm can be used as a guide to drill therequired 3/16" hole. With the clutch arm in place, drill a 3/16"hole all the way though the clutch shaft.

7a 7b

Photos 8a & 8b: The 3/16" dowel pin is oversize by .001" for atight fit. When installing the dowel pin for the final time, use asmall amount of “RED” thread locker. The pin should be drivenin flush with the bottom of the arm.

8a 8b

Photo 9: The 3/16" hole in thearm is drilled all the waythrough. If the dowel pin everneeds to be removed, a longpunch can be used to drivethe pin out from the top.Good Luck!