[1915] harmuth, louis - dictionary of textiles

PICTIONI\RY

GIFT OF

J

DICTIONARYOF

TEXTILESB Y

LOUIS HARMUTHFASHION EDITOR OF "WOMEN'S WEAR"

1915

FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING COMPANYNEW YORK

FAIRCHILD PUBIISHING CO,

Copyright 1915.

PREFACE

The tendency in modern books of a technical character undoubtedly in-

clines very strongly toward encyclopedic and dictionary forms. The cry for

the saving of lime calls for books in compact form with information handy at a

moment's notice.

The present DICTIONARY is the result of 7'/2 years of collecting

and compiling information, gained to a large extent in connection with my work

on the Daily Trade Record and Women's Wear. With over 6,600

terms and definitions contained in it, this DICTIONARY is as nearly com-

plete, in number of terms strictly relating to textile fibres and fabrics, as it is

possible for a work of this kind to be.

It was my desire to present in the DICTIONARY and within as small

compass as practical the largest number of terms and definitions possible, re-

lating to textiles from the fibres to the finished fabrics and everything which goes

into them in the course of the manufacture. An interesting part of the DIC-

TIONARY contains names of fabrics, now obsolete, with as complete a de-

scription of their character as it was possible to find in various old laws, wills,

lists and in the technical literature. Owing to the fact that manufacturers con-

stantly have recourse to some obsolete fabric in search of new effects, details of

manufacturing and finishing of such materials ought to be interesting.

While it was the intention to include textiles found in use in every country

throughout the world, owing to their importance special attention was given to

French, English and German textiles. The South and Central American re-

publics with their markets, which are interesting to the American importer have

been covered, for the first time I believe, in this DICTIONARY.

It was thought advisable to include among the terms incorporated in this

book the names of the more important chemicals and to indicate their uses in

the course of textile manufacturing and finishing, as the character of a fabric

is greatly altered by the application of various chemicals in the finishing process.

394167

Although originally intended to include copyrighted names in the

DICTIONARY and although a number of them have been collected, they

Were not printed, inasmuch as a great many, especially those relating to cotton

goods, refer to fabrics of practically of identical construction and finish, and

thus their presence mould have meant only unnecessary duplication. The

names of a great many articles usually sold in dry goods stores, as for instance

needles and buttons, as veil as the names of garments and machinery, are not

included in this DICTIONARY.

The terms found in the DICTIONARY are arranged in alphabetical

order, each term discussed independently and placed in its proper position.

The combination of the alphabetical order with grouping of the terms according

to (he subject they refer to, like knitting, laces, etc., as it is found in one of the

latest textile dictionaries published in this country, while it affords some obvious

advantage, presupposes on the part of the reader a certain knowledge of the

meaning and relation of the particular Word, which is often the very knowledge

sought for and so should not be taken for granted in advance.

In describing the various fibres the expression "variety" is not used in a

strict botanical sense but rather as referring to the group of plants to which the

fibre belongs.

In conclusion, I will add that on the general subject of textile dictionaries,

it occurred to me that such a work, accompanied by actual samples of the fibres

and fabrics themselves (such as are available on a commercial scale at the pres-

ent), would be a most useful guide for manufacturers, importers, exporters,

merchants and the student. Owing to its magnitude, such a work 'would be be-

yond the capacity, both financially and physically; of any single person. It is

hoped that under the auspices of some of the public libraries or museums, funds

will be made available for collating a dictionary of that kind.

New York, November, 1915. LOUIS HARMUTH.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Adams, F. M. : The Dry Goods Man's Handy Dic-tionary.

Albee, Helen R. : Abnakee Rugs.American School of Correspondence: Cyclopedia

of Textile Work.Ashenhurst, Thos. R. : Design in Textile Fabrics.Baines: History of the Cotton Manufacture.Baker, Wm. Henry: A Dictionary of Men's Wear.Balls, William Lawrence: The Cotton Plant in

Egypt.Banerjel, N. N.: Monograph on the Cotton Fab-

rics of Bengal.Barker, Alfred F. : Analysis of Woven Fabrics.Barker, Alfred F. : Wool Carding and Combing.Barker & Priestly: Wool Carding and Combing.Bean & McCleary: Chemistry and Practice of

(Finishing.Beaumont, Roberts: Color in Woven Design.Beaumont, Roberts: Woolen and Worsted (1915).Beaumont, Roberts: Finishing of Textile 'Fabrics.

Beauverie, J. : Les Textiles Vegetaux.Beck, S. Win.: The Draper's Dictionary.Beeoh. Franklin: Dyeing of Woolen Fabrics.Beech, Franklin: Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics.Beeton. S. O.: Dictionary of Industries and Com-

merce.Bell, T. F.: Jacquard Weaving and Designing.Bennett & Co., Frank P. : A Cotton Fabrics

Glossary.Bennett & Co., Frank P.: Woolen and Worsted

Fabrics Glossary.Bersch, Dr. Joseph: Lexikon der Farben-Teohnik.Bezon, M.: Dictlonnaire des Tissus.Bible. Geo. W. & Dan'l P.: Pocket Dictionary of

Dry Goods.Biechoff, James: A Comprehensive History of the

Woolen and Worsted Manufactures.Black, A. & C. : Oriental Carpets.Both, Otto: Die Bandweberei.Both & Krissiep: Kalender fur Bandweberei,

IFlechterei und Posamentenfabrikation.Bowling, Torn : Book of Knots.Bowman: Structure of the Cotton Fibre.Bowman: Structure of the Wool Fibre.Bradbury, iFred: Calculations in Yarns and Fab-

rics.

Bradbury, Fred: Carpet Manufacture.Broadbent, J. T. : Cotton Manual.Brooks, C. P.: Cotton, Its Uses, Varieties, Etc.Buckley, M. M. : Cone Drawing,Burnley, Jas. : History of Wool and Wool Comb-

ing.BasheM. S. W. : Chinese Art.Butterick Publishilng Co.: Embroideries and Their

Stitches.Carter, Herbert R. : Spinning and Twisting of

Long Vegetable Fibres.Carter. H. R. : Flax, Hemp and Jute Year Book.Carter, H. R. : Flax, He/mip and Jute Spinning

and Twisting.Caulfleld. S. F. A.: The Dictionary of Needlework.Clark. W. A. Graham: Various Monographs.Cole, Alan: Ornament in European Silks.

Cole, George S. : Dictionary of Dry Goods.Cotton Plant, Its History, Varieties (Government

Printing Office, Washington, D. C.)Day & Buckle: Art in Needlework.Depierre. Joseph: Elementary Treatise on the

Finishing.Despierres: HIstoire du Point d'Alencon.Dillmont, Therese de: Encyklopaedde der Weib-

lichen HandarbeLten.Dodge. Ohas. Richnrrt: Descriptive Catalogue of

Useful Fibre Plants of the World.Dona t. Franz : Jacquard Weberei.

Dooley, Wm. H. : Textiles.Dresser, Christopher: Japan, Its Architecture,

Art and Art Manufactures.Ellwanger, W. de L.: The Oriental Rug.Fa 1 cot, P. : Traite Encyclop-edique et Methodtque

de la Fabrication des Tiasus.Felkin, Wm. : A History of the Machine-Wrought

Hosiery and Lace Manufacture.Fiedler, K. : Die Appretur der Bander und Lltzen.Frauberger, Tina: Handouch der Spitzenkund.Ganewindt, Dr. A.: Farben der Seide.Gardner, Paul: Die Merceri&atlon der Baumwolle.Gardner, Walter 'M. : Wool Dyeing.Georgievics: Chemical Technology of Textile

Fibers.Gonse, Louis: I

1 Art Japonais.Guertler, Max; Spinnerei und Zwirnerei.Guest, Richard; A Compendious History of the

Cotton Manufacture.Hannan, Wm. I.: Textile Fibers of Commerce.Harris, Henry T. : Monograph on the Carpet

Weaving Industry of Southern India.Hedrick: Cotton .Spinning.Heermann. Paul : Dyers' Materials.Heiden, Max: Handwoerterbuch der Textllkunde.Herzfeld: Yarns and Textile Fabrics.Heuser. E. J. : Die Apparatfarberel der Baum-

wolle und Wolle.Hey 1 in, Hy. B.: Cottons. Linens, Woolens, Silks.

Holt, Rosa Belle: Rugs, Oriental and Occidental.Hubner, Julius: Bleaching and Dyeing.Huish, Marcus B. : Japan and Its Art.Hullebroeck, Adolphe: Defauts du Tissage.Hummel, J. J.: Dyeing of Textile 'Fabrics.Hurst: Silk Dyeing, Printing and 'Finishing.Ivey, G. F. : Carding and Spinning.James. John : History of the Worsted Manufac-

ture in England.Japanese Works of Art From the Mosle Collec-

tion.

Jefferys. T. : Collection of Dresses.Johnson, Alfred S. : Technical World Magazine.Johnston, W. & A. K., Ltd.: The (Scottish Clans

and Their Tartans.Jourdaln, M. : Old Lace.Kastanek: Manual of Weave Construction.Knecht and Fotfaerglll: The Principles and Prac-

tice of Textile Pninting.Knecht. Rawson & Loe wen-thai: Manual of Dye-

Ing.Knepsoher, Walter: Die Appretur der Seiden

Halbseiden und Samtgewebe.Koch, Alex.: Moderne Stickerelen.Kretpchmer & Rohrfoach: Costumes of All Na-

tions.

Langton, M. P.: How to Know Oriental Rugs.Latlmer, C. : Carpet Making In the Punjab.Lefebure, Ernest : Embroidery and Lace.Lapperhoff, Bernhard: Die IFlechterei.Lind, John W. : Handbook for Carpet Salesmen.Lindsay: Cotton Carding.Lister, John: Manufacturing Processes of Woolen

and Worsted.Logan, J ,i itirs : Maolan's Costumes of the Clans

of 'Scotland,Logan, James: Scottish Gael.Lord: Decorative and Fancy Textile Fabrics.MOLaren, W. S. Bright: Spinning Woolen and

Worsted.Mark, Gustav; Die Technik des Tischzeug

Damastes.Marsohik. Samuel : Die Torsion der Game und

Zwlrne.Matthews, J. Merritt: Laboratory Manual of

Dye<ing.

MaMhews, J. Merrltt: Textile Fibers.Megraw, Robt. H. : Textiles and the Origin of

Their Names.Mierzinskl, S.: Waterproofing of Fabrics.(Monie: Structure of the Cotton Fiber.Moore, Alfred S. : Linen From the Raw Material

to the (Finished Product.Mukerji, N. G. : Carpet Weaving In Bengal.Mumford. John Kimberly: Oriental Rugs.Mundorf, E.: Die Appretur der Woll-und Halb-

wollwaren.Munsterberg, Oskar: Chinesisehe, Kunst-

geschichte.Murphy, Wm. S. : The Textile Industries.

Murphy. Wm. S. : Modern Drapery and AlliedTrades.

Naamith: Cotton Spinning.Nelson, Wlm. H. : Warp Preparation and Weaving.Nelson, Wm. H. : Plain and Fancy Weaving.Neugebauer & Orendi: Handbuch der Orlen-

talischen Teppichkunde.Neville, H. : Student's Handbook of Practical

Fabric Structure.Nisbet, Harry: Grammar of Textile Design.Olney, (L. A.: Textile Chemistry and Dyeing.Owen, Mrs. Henry: Illuminated Book on Needle-

work.Palliser, Mrs. B. : History of Lace.Paterson, David: Color Printing of Canpet Yarns.Planche, J. R. : Cyclopedia of Costume or Dic-

tionary of Dress.Polleyn, F. : Dressings and Finishings for Textile

FaJbrics.

Posselt, E. A.: Textile Calculations.Posselt. E. A.: Technology of Textile Design.Practical Manual oif Cloth (Finishing.Prlestman, Howard: Principles of Wool Combing.Priestman, Howard: Principles of Woolen Spin-

ning.Priestman, Howard: Principles of Worsted Spin-

ning.RoCk, Daniel: Textile Falbrics.

Ropers, H. : Auskunftsbuch uber morgenlandischeTeppiche.

Roseyear, E. : Text'book of Needlework.RothweM: Printing of Textile iFabrics.

Radcliffe. J. W. : The Manufacture of Woolen andWorsted Yarns.

Rawson, Gardner & Laycock: Dictionary of Dyes,Mordants, Etc.

Rayner: Silk Throwing and Waste Silk Spinning.Reiser: Faults In the Manufacture of Woolen

Goods.Ricci, Elisa: Old Italian Laces.

Eiegl, Dr. Alois: The Vienna Oriental CarpetBook.

Schams, J. : Handbuch der Weberei.Schuette, Marie: Alte Spitzen.Schulze, Paul: Uber Geweiremuster fruherer

Jahrhunderte.Smith. Henry B. : The Sheep and Wool Industry

of Australia.Spttzli. Alfred; Manual..Suvern. Dr. Karl: Die Kunstliche Seide.Taggart, Wm. Scott: Cotton Spinning.Thornley: Cotton Spinning.Timmerman, J. F. : Woolen and Worsted Finish-

ins.Townsend, Mrs. B. : Talks on Art Needlework.Umpleby, Fenwick: Textile Design.Ure. Andrew: A Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures

and Mines.Verneuil, M. P. : Etoffes Japonaises, Tlssees et

Brochees.Vickerman, Charles: Woolen Spinning.Vickerman, Charles: Woolen Thread.Walland, Heinrich: Kenntnlss der Wasch Blelch

und Appreturmittel.Walton, Perry: The Story of Textiles.WT

arden. Alex J.: The Linen Trade, Ancient andModern.

Watson. Wm. : Textile Design and Color.Watson, Wm.: Advanced Textile Design.Watt, G. : Dictionary of Economic Products of

India.Watt. George: The Wild and Cultivated Cotton

Plants of the World.Wenzel, Robert: Garnberechnungen.Whitworth. Ernest: Practical Cotton Cultivation.Wickardt & Haarmann: Das Fachrechnen fur die

Webwaren-Fabrikation.'Wilkinson, Frederick: The Story of the Cotton

Plant.Williams. Leonard: Textiles.

Witt & Lehman: Chemical Technology of Tex-tile Fibers.

Woodcraft, Bennet: Brief Biographies of Inven-tors of Machines for Textile Fabrics.

Woodhouse & Milne: Textile Design.Wootaian & McGowan: Textiles.

Worm, J. : Wlrkerel und Stickerei.

Yates, James: Textrinum Antiquorum; an Ac-count of the Art of Weaving Among theAncients.

Zeising. Hermann: Uber Schappe-Spinnerel./.ips.'r. Julius: Textile Raw Materials and Their

Conversion Into Yarns.

DICTIONARYOF

TEXTILES

ABA ADA

Aba 1, coarse and thick, felted woolenfabric, made in Hungary, of natural

colored gray wool, worn by the peas-ants: 2, in Turkey and Arabia a

coarse fa'bric, made of wool and cam-el's hair, made in stripes.

Abaca Native Philippine name for the

Manila hemp (see).

Abassi Raw cotton grown in Egypt, the

staple is of good quality and white

color, but not as strong as the Mitaflfl.

Abat-Chauvee French for a low gradeof wool.

Abb 1, merino clothing warp wool, beingskirting from the breech; 2, short

wool, taken from the breech and cow-tail skirts of English and coarse wool,used mostly for warp; 3, same as

warp.Abbotsford Light, dress faced twilled

woolen dress good having faint check

pattern.

Abdullah Kani Striped silks made in

Lyons for the Abyssinian and Moroccotrade.

Abee Fabric made with cotton warp andwoolen filling in Asia Minor.

Abelmoschus Fiber similar to jute called

rai bhenda in India. It is laugh anddoes not rot in water; used for ropes.

Abercrombie A highland tartan, having ablue and black ground, crossed with

green stripes forming double greenchecks, the green stripes being split

by a white line.

Aberdeen 'Men's half hose made in Scot-land of coarse gray wool.

Abeston Incombustible flax of old Egypt,mentioned by Pliny.

Ablaque or pearl silk A very fine rawsilk from Persia; does not stand warmwater.

Abnakee Rug Modern American hookedrug made on a coarse and open juteburlap ground. Unbleached, all-wool,twilled flannel is dyed with vegetabledyes and cut lengthwise into strips of

one-quarter inch width. These striips

are hooked through the burlap to formthe pile. The patterns are bold.

Abouchouchon Low grade French wool-en for the Levant trade, originally had1,600 ends and black and white sel-

vage.

Abougedid Unbleached cotton goods in

Abyssinia, imported from various

places.

Abrang Glazed cotton fabric made in In-

dia with fine violet stripes.

Abrawan Next to the finest quality of the

plain Dacca muslin (see).

Abrohany Very sheer cotton muslinmade in India. See Mallemolles.

Abroma Hemp Called also perennial In-

dian hemp, grows in the PhilippineIslands, India, etc. The fibers are usedfor coarse cloth and for tow. Seedevil's cotton.

Absorbent Cotton Cotton is treated withhot alkaline solutions, cleaning thefibers from all fats and making themabsorbent. Used for surgical ban-dages.

Abudig 'Medium fine wool of Morocco.

Abutilon Strong and glossy fiber yieldedby the abutilon species in SouthAmerica and India; used as hemp sub-stitute for ropes.

Acacia Leucophloea This tree of India

yields a tough and coarse bast flber,

used for ropes and nets.

Acca Medieval gold brocade shot withcolored silk, forming animal patterns,used for church vestments in England.

Acetate of Iron Used in dyeing silk black

or dark shades.

Acetic Acid Used in printing and dyeing.

Aceytuni Medieval original name for

satin.

Acid Dyes A very large group of syn-thetic dyestuffs, obtained from the

coal tar, including both fast and fugi-tive colors, which are used only onwool and silk. They have all an acid

character and dye in an acid bath.

They either contain azo groups, or aremade by treating basic colors with

sulphuric acid or are made with nitric

acid.

Acme Variety of raw cotton grown in

Mississippi; the staple is fairly long,but is of inferior quality.

Acores Unbleached linen of various fine-

ness made in France for the Dutchand South American trade.

Acri 'Raw cotton from Syria.

Adad Fibers yielded by the Ficaria ran-

uc?uloides, a creeper in the MarshallIslands; used for clothing mats by the

natives.

Adapangia Trade name for Bengal rawsilk.

Adarsa A fine musldn made in India.

Adatais or Addatis Fine cotton muslinfrom India; the best grades are fromBengal.

Adenos The best grade of Levant cotton;also a cotton fabric made in Syria.

Adhi Fine cotton muslin from India.

Adia Good quality of bleached cottoncloth imported in Abyssinia and Ara-bia for native dresses.

Adras A glossy narrow striped union silk

fabric, made in India and CentralAsia; finished by beetling.

Adrianople Twill French name, synony-mous with Turkey red twill.

ADU ALA

Adulteration The adding of substitutefibers or foreign materials to textilesfor gain; for instance, wool adulter-ated with cotton or silk adulterated byweighting.

Aea 'Native Hawaiian name for cord,made of the bark of the aleurites tree.

Aeolian Lightweight material for ball

gowns made with cotton warp silkweft.

Aerophane Thin, solid colored silk gauze,used as millinery and dress trimming.

Aetzstickerei German term for burnedembroidery. The pattern is embroid-ered in vegetable fiber on animal fiber

foundation, or vice versa, in such amanner that it will hang together likea lace after the foundation is de-stroyed with chemicals which do notaffect the embroidering yarn.

Afghan A knitted or crocheted woolblanket, made with fancy coloredstripes.

Afghanistan Carpets made in Turkestanand Afghanistan of wool or goat'shair, the medium long loose pile is

tied in Senna knot. The patterns areangular octagons, diamonds, some-times stiff floral designs in red, brown,blue and white. Most of these car-pets have a strong odor due to im-perfect washing of the wool.

Afiume A coarse grade of flax grown in

Egypt.African Bass Very coarse, dark, stiff and

tough fiber, yielded by the leaf stalksof the bamboo palru in Africa; usedfor brushes; also for lines by thenatives.

African Fiber Commercial name for afiber yielded by the leaves of the pal-metto in Algiers. Used for mattressstuffing.

Afridi A cotton fabric made by the na-tives in East India and decorated withwax ornaments.

After Chroming A process in dyeing, con-sisting of the application of a chromemordant to a fabric already dyed.

After Treating A process in dyeing, con-sisting of the application of a mor-dant to a fabric dyed previously.

Agaric A cotton fabric made with flne

warp loop pile, formed on wires; usedfor dresses.

Agave 'Leaf fibers obtained from the va-rious aloe and century plants; usedfor ropes and cords.

Ageing In the mordanting of cotton fab-rics the cloth previously saturated insolution of metallic salt is steamed,which process decomposes the mor-dant.

Agenois Unbleached linen made in andaround Agen. France. Antiquatedname.

Aggebonce A silk embroidered cottonfabric, made in Syria.

Aggoned Bundei The best grade of EastIndian and Japanese raw silk. In Eu-ropean markets called Tani or Tanny.

Aglet A white lacing cord.

Agnelin Antiquated name of Danish woolof the same province sold in theAmsterdam market.

Agneline Coarse, black, stout woolen,made with a long nap, thoroughlyfulled to shed water; used by thepoorer classes in Europe for winterclothing.

Agra Large and very thick knotted woolor cotton carpets, made in India. Thecolors are blue, green and browns.

Agra Gauze Fine, transparent silk fab-ric, made in plain weave; used fortrimming.

Aguilles Plain woven cotton cloth madein Syria.

Agust (Strong bast fiber of the sesbaniagrandiflora in southern India; usedfor ropes.

Aida Cloth for table purposes, awnings,etc., made in plain weave, the pat-tern being thrown alternately on theface and on the reverse side.

Aida Canvas Plain and open weave fab-ric, woven with one thread in eachwarp and filling, often also with twothreads paired without twist; madeof linen, also cotton and wool; usedfor embroidery. Also called Javacanvas or fancy oatmeal.

Ailanthus Wild silk of grayish or brown-ish color, produced by the Attacusatlas in India.

Ailesham Cloth Fine linen cloth made in

England in the Middle Ages.

Ajamis Calico from the Levant.

Ajiji Cotton muslin with silk stripes,made in India.

Ajour French for open-work, as in

embroidery, knitting, etc.

Akaakai Hawaiian bulrush used formats, baskets, etc., by the natives.

Akaroa The ribbon tree, Plagianthusbetulinus, of New Zealand, yielding aflexible, lustrous, strong lace-likebast, used for nets, lines, etc.

Akhissar Rugs made in Asia Minor, thewarp and weft are of wool, the loosepile of mohair, tied in Ghiordes knot.Red and golden brown are used.

Akia A very tough bast fiber, used forropes in Hawaii.

Aladjas Heavy taffeta with stripe orflower patterns, made in India.

Aladsha Fancy cotton goods, originatedin the East.

Alagai Union silk fabric made in AsiaMinor.

Alagia In the Levant trade name ofclosely woven fancy cottons, alsomixed with silk.

Alagoas Brazilian raw cotton.

Alagoas Lace 'Coarse, cotton bobbin lace,made in Brazil.

A la Grecque French name of the mean-der pattern.

Alamba NorthMobile.

American cotton from

AME ANG

American Cloth In England, an enameledoilcloth for household or upholsterypurposes.

American Jute Obsolete name for the

Abutilon fiber (see) in the UnitedStates.

Americana Name for coarse cotton sheet-

ing in Bulgaria and Servia.

Americani or Amerikano Unbleached cot-

ton sheetings in various parts of

Africa; originally from America, nowimported from England.

Americano Assilia Name for gray cotton

sheetings on the eastern coast of

Africa. They came originally from theUnited States.

Americano Gamti A very dark and coarse

gray cotton sheeting on the easterncoast of Africa. Imported from India.

Americano Marduff Twilled, stout graycotton fabric in East Africa, importedfrom the United States or Europe;used for tents, sails and dresses bythe natives.

American Ulayiti Native name of graycotton sheetings on the eastern coastof Africa. Imported from Europe.

Amertis Closely woven calicoes or cottongoods from Patna, Bengal.

Amianthus Fine, flexible asbestos; usedfor fireproof curtains, etc.

Amiens or Amens Closely woven twilledcloth of hard-twist worsted, in solid

colors, striped or made with patterns.Similar to the lastings but of bettergrade. Made originally in Amiens.

Amilpat Name for native embroidery in

East India.

Amiray Native Philippine name for theramie fiber; used for cords, threadsand fabrics.

Ammonia Used as bleaching agent to-

gether with peroxide and to fix aliza-rine dye on wool.

Amoer 'Name of a strong silk taffeta In

many parts of Italy. Same as grosde tours.

Amole Coarse, yellow fiber, yielded by thebulb of a lily-like plant in California;used for stuffing.

Amorgis Fine linen in ancient Greece,usually dyed purple.

Amour Linen with round or oval damask -

like pattern for table use, made inCaen, France. Also called La.csd'amour.

Amritsar Large size, East Indian woolrugs made in Persian designs withheavy pile.

Anabasses 'Blue and white striped woolencovers, made in Rouen and vicinity forthe Senegal, Guinea and Angola trade;also imitated by Holland.

Anacostas Fine all-worsted English dressgoods, woven in a 2-and-2 twill with aweft face, as the number of picks ismuch higher than the number of ends.It is woven in gray and dyed in thepiece.

Anacoste or Anacote Twilled French andGerman worsted serge having a verysmooth finish, used by religious or-ders for clothing. An inferior qualitymade in 'Netherlands is known in

Japan as saaij.

Anadendron Very strong bast fiber of theA. plant in the Andaman Islands, usedfor nets and bowstrings by thenatives.

Analao Philippine name for a cordagefiber.

Ananong A Philippine cordage fiber.

Anaphe 'Wild silk of reddish brown color,similar to Tussah, produced by agenus of African gregarious moth.

Anatolian 1, small, all-wool rug made inAsia Minor and used for pillows; thesoft, long pile is tied in Ghiordes knot;the designs and colors show a greatvariety; they are finished with a sel-

vage all around and a fringe at theends; the socalled "big Anatolians" areof large size and have a very close andvery long pile. 2, long and mediumfine wool, yielded by the caramansheep of Anatolia. The sheep has avery heavy, flat tail. Wool used for

carpets.

Ancelia Union dress goods of cottonthread warp and mixed wool yarnfilling, forming patterns.

Anchali A wide ribbon, made in E*ast

India.

A neon Wool taken from an Americanbred sheep, originated in the 18th cen-tury, but now extinct.

Andalusia Medium fine Spanish wool.

Andalusian Wool In England a four-strand, fine worsted yarn for knitting.

Anderson Very fine gingham made inScotland.

Andes Cotton Same as Peruvian cotton.

Anglaise Plain colored French serge,made with eight ends and four picksin a repeat.

Angleterre Highly finished silk taffetamade in France.

Angleterre Bars Filling in places in mod-ern point laces, consisting of lines ofthreads crossed at right angles withknots or spots formed by a sepa-rate thread at each crossing.

Angleterre Edge A needle-point edging tobraid or cordonnet; made with oneline of point de Bruxelles loops.

Angola 1, yarn composed of cotton andwool; 2, twilled, red cotton cloth; 3, athick, soft twilled, napped woolenovercoating.

Angola Brocade A highly finished Englishworsted dress goods of the 19th cen-tury, woven in colored patterns; ob-solete.

Angola Cloth Diaper cotton of creamcolor, with rough face, used for em-broidery.

Angola Mending English yarn of mixedwool and cotton used for darningstockings.

ANG

Angora 1, highly finished, plain weavedress goods of cotton thread warp andmohair filling-; 2, twilled overcoatingmade with shaggy face of wool ormohair; 3, goat yielding the mohair.

Angora Cashmere Soft, light, twilled mo-hair dress fabric.

Angora Yarn Spun in France of the long,silver gray fur of the angora rabbit.It is very soft and will not felt; usedfor knitted sporting goods.

Animalize Consists in treating cottonyarns with solutions of silk or otheranimal fiber in order to impart to thecotton certain general properties ofanimal fibers.

Anodendron Very tough, but fine, bastfibers of a climber (Anodendron panic-ulatum) in southern India and Ceylon;used for ropes.

Anoncillo Fiber yielded by the bark of aspecies of the sour-sap in Venezuela.

Antelope Cloth Used for embroideredwaistcoats and embroidery foundationin England. There are small pinholesin the cloth placed at equal distancefrom each other, through which theyarn is put.

Anterine or Anterne 18th century fabricin England, made of worsted and silkor mohair and cotton.

Antherea Collective scientific name forvarious wild silks of Japan, China andIndia.

Anthistirta Stem fvber yielded by a grass(Anthistiria arundinacea) in north-western India, used for cordage.

Antichlor A variety of sulphites, used toremove bleaching powder from thefibers.

Antimony fluoride Used in place of tartaremetic.

Antipole Philippine fiber, used for ropesand cords.

Antwerp Belgian bobbin lace of boldpatterns, similar to the Malines (see).Made either of separate sprigs con-nected with each other by brides (see)or the pattern made in one and upona ground. Usually plaited thread out-lines the patterns. A characteristicdesign is the socalled Potten Kant(see).

Antwerp Edge 'Needle-point edge to braidor cordonnet, consisting of one lineof open buttonhole caught with a knotin each loop.

Apolda .Fine, printed wool shawl, madein Germany.

Apou Transparent Chinese fabric ofgreat luster, made of ramie.

Appenzell Fine hand embroidery, madewith buttonhole stitches in Switzer-land.

Applique Broderie Perse Colored piecesof chintz or cretonne, representingflowers, birds, etc., are pasted on theground and outlined with stitches.

Applique Broderie Suisse Design is em-broidered on white cambric or muslinlaid upon satin or silk background.

ARG

Applique Lace Needle-point or bobbinsprigs applied to a machine-madeground, as for instance, modernBrussels lace.

Appret de Laine French for the soft andpermanent finish given to mercerizedItalian linings, similar to the Botanvworsted Italian lining.

Apron Checks Narrow cotton ginghamswith small checks in white and color-used for aprons.

Apta Brown fiber gained from the EastIndian Bausinia, used for tows, fish-ing nets and coarse cloth.

Arabian A curtain made of netting andedged with macrame lace.

Arabian Crepe Silk crepe dyed in thepiece and embroidered with dots.

Arabian Embroidery Made with floss silkin very elaborate geometrical designsupon cloth or muslin ground.

Arabian Lace Heavy, ecru colored lace,made of cords knotted together in in-tricate patterns; used for curtains.

Arabian Stripes Coarse cotton fabric withblue and brown weft stripes; origi-nated in Arabia.

Arabias See Arabiennes.

Arabiennes Fancy colored cloth made ofcotton and flax in Germany for theSouth American trade.

Arain Indian silk taffeta, made withstripes or checks.

Arbaccio Coarse homespun, made inSardinia, of native wool.

Arbascio Stout brown cloth made ofcoarse wool or goat's hair, in Albaniaand Macedonia for Italy, where it isused for raincoats.

Arcazabo Silk brocade made in Lyons forthe African trade.

Archangelsk flaxFine Russian flax oflong, soft, grayish fibers.

Archi-imperiaUTunis.

-Italian serge made for

Ardamu Raw silk of Ghilan, Persia.

Ardas Stout silk fabric from Persia.

Ardasse Low grade raw silk of Persia,manufactured in Europe into em-broidery silk.

Ardassin Fine Persian raw silk, same asAblaque.

Aredas Indian plain woven fabric madeof a soft and lustrous vegetable fiber,yielded by a grass. See Aridas.

Areste A rich gold cloth woven withelaborate patterns and used for churchvestments in medieval England.

Argaglt Eastfabric.

Indian plain woven silk

Argali Long, dark gray hair yielded bythe A. sheep in Siberia, used for car-

pet yarns.

ARC ART

Argentan lace French needle-point lace.

Early specimens called point de

France (see). The A. is similar to the

Alencon (see), and has the followingcharacteristics: net ground with large

patterns, made higher and bolder

than the Alencon, closer toile (see)

than in Alencon, and a great variety of

rich brides (see), especially the bride

picotee (see), the ground is the grandebride, a six-sided mesh.

Argentella Lace Italian white needle-

point, similar to the Alencon, butwith flat cordonnet. The designs con-sist of very delicate patterns spreadover a net ground.

Argentine Croisee Former name oftwilled dress goods and men's suit-

ing made with silk warp and cottonfilling, manufactured in France.

Argos Wool rug made in A., Greece.

Argudan Variety of coarse raw cottonfrom China.

Argouges iStout, bleached linen, formerlymade in France, made originally 25

Paris inches wide, of selected, hard-spun yarn, containing at least 1,300ends; obsolete.

Aridas Lightweight, plain woven andsolid colored East Indian silk cloth of

high luster; made originally of fibersof grass-like plants.

Arimina A long, strong, stem fiber, simi-lar to jute, yielded by a species of

agave in Brazil; used for ropes.

Aristo Same as moquette carpet.

Ariyalur Fine, weft-faced silk satin, withweft stripes; made in East India; usedfor garments.

Armazine Stout, plain colored, cordedblack silk, used in the 16th centuryfor gowns and men's waists and laterfor scholastic gowns, hatbands, etc.

Armenian Lace Coarse and narrow cro-chet lace edgings.

Armiak Camel-hair cloth made in Astra-khan, also called Biaza; used forcoats.

Armistice Cloth English worsted fabricin orange, blue, black and other col-ors; now obsolete; was fashionable atthe end of the Boer war.

Armoisin Obsolete, light and thinsilk taffeta for lining; made in Italyand France with stripes, geometricaldesigns or dots. Heavier a. with ribswas made for curtains and bed covers.Nowadays, East India produces twokinds of a., one called damaras, withflower patterns, and arains, withstripes or checks.

Armozeen Obsolete, black, French taffeta,used for dresses, mourning wear andclergymen's clothes.

Armstrong A Highland tartan withgreen checks over a blue and blackground with red lines.

Armure 1, French term for small patternin pebbled or embossed effect; 2, agreat variety of dress goods made of

Botany wool, mohair, cotton or artifi-

cial silk or combinations of thesefibers, made in a small pebbled orembossed effect which is producedfrom warp or weft ribs.

Armure Bosphore A reversible silk

armure.

Armure Cheviot An all-wool, piece dyedblack cheviot, used for dresses in

England.

Armure Royale French silk dress goodsand vesting, made with two sets of

ply warps in different colors; 16

warps and six fillings in a repeat.

Armure Victoria A thin and sheer wooldress goods of dull black ground withdelicate patterns; used for mourn-ing.

Army Blanket Woolen blanket used in

the United States army; it is fulled

and well napped and of dark graycolor. The size is 48 by 76 and 60

by 76 inches.

Army Cloth 1, a number of woolen andworsted fabrics used for soldiers'

uniforms; 2, low grade gray woolenfabric made in Yorkshire for the AsiaMinor market.

Arrti iA very fine East IndSan cotton

muslin.

Aroosha A fairly strong fiber, yielded bya species of the Verbenaceae tree In

India.

Arramas A medieaval brocade made of

gold and silk.

Arras 1, French tapestry used for hang-ings; 2, medieval French worsted;

3,white French bobbin lace, similar to

the Lille lace (see). It is of strongand close texture with straight edgeand the mignonette (see) as the char-

acteristic pattern.

Arrasene Silk or wool chenille for em-broidery.

Arrasene Embroidery Produced withArrasene, by either drawing it throughthe cloth or laying it on the surfaceand catching down as in couching(see).

Arree Bark fiber yielded by the Bauhiniaracemosa in East India; used for

ropes.

Arrindy Strong, raw silk of the eria silk

worm in India.

Arrow Stitch So called from the slanting

position of threads forming it. Identi-

cal with the stem stitch (see).

Arscot 'Fine woolen serge made in Bel-

gium.

Art Delaine Fine woolen dress goods of

the end of the 19th century.

Art Linen Plain woven linen, made of

round, even thread, used for embroid-ery.

ART 10 ASI

Art Muslin In England, a fine cottonfabric dyed or printed and finishedwith a high gloss; used for upholstery.

Art Serge A fine, stout worsted serge,used in England for draping andtable covers.

Art Square Large variety of small or

large ingrain rugs, made square or

oblong, with fringe at both ends.

Artificial Cotton Made by pine shavingsbeing treated with caustic soda underpressure.

Artificial Dyestuffs An immense varietyof dyestuffs which are not obtaineddirectly from the plants or animals,but are produced chemically; as, for

instance, from the coal tar. They areof late origin.

Artificial Horsehair Certain grasses aretreated for a brief period with con-centrated sulphuric acid or chloride of

zinc, rendering the fiber very strong,elastic and similar in appearance to

real horsehair.

Artificial Silk 'Fiber obtained from cellu-lose or other materials, through vari-ous ways; 1, the Chardonnet processdissolves cotton waste in nitric andsulphuric acids into nitro cellulose;this again is treated in ether, pro-ducing gun cotton in liquid form,which is pressed through small holes;as the ether evaporates during this

pressure, a cellulose fiber is obtained,which afterward is denitrated. 2, in

the viscose process, wood pulp is dis-

solved in caustic soda, the resultingsalt is treated in carbon bisulphite,then dissolved in ammonia sulphate,which is pressed through small holesand rinsed. 3, the glanzstoff or cup-iram'monium process, in which cellu-

lose is dissolved in copper ammoniumhydrate. 4, Vanduara silk made of

chemically treated gelatine, renderingit insoluble.

A process of decorating textile

fabrics with ornamental designs uf

artificial silk consists of printingliquid artificial silk by means of en-

graved rolls on the fabric, the artifi-

cial silk drying very rapidly.The fibers produced by means ofthese various chemical processesare intended to imitate silk by their

gloss. The large majority of arti-

ficial silk of commercial importance is

of cellulose, and its distinguishingmarks from the real silk, besides thechemical tests, are: The lack of

scroop, greater brilliancy, greater in-

flammability, less strength and elas-

ticity and greater smoothness, the last

causing the tendency to unravel.Artificial silk will not wash, and is

usually mixed with some other fiber.

The principle of the manufacture ofcommercially important artificial silk

Is in the production of a cellulose so-lution. This solution is pressedthrough a plate having very smallholes. The solving agent is evaporatedand the solidified fiber is wound on areel. This fiber is subsequentlywashed, denitrated (to diminish its in-

flammability) and dried.

Artificial silk was invented by CountChardonnet in 1884, who took collo-dion as basis; the fiber produced,however, was very dangerous, due toits inflammability. At the presenttime wood pulp OT cotton is usedmostly as source of cellulose for theartificial silk.

Owing to its inferior strength, espe-cially in a wet state, artificial silk is

used mostly in fabrics where bril-

liant effect is required, rather thandurability. It is used mostly for

braids, galloons and other trimmings,neckwear silk, drapery fabrics, for in-

sulating wires and also for gas man-tles, and for pile fabrics.

Cuprammonium silks are usuallymordanted, while collodion silks canbe dyed directly with basic dyes. Forviscose silk usually vat colors are

employed, and substantive colors aregood for other silks, while acid dyesare used only for light shades.

Artificial Tulle or Lace Cellulose paste,similar to that used for artificial silk

is spread over a cylinder, the surfaceof which is engraved with the pat-tern of the lace or tulle, a knife re-

moving the matter from the smoothsurface. The paste remaining in the

engraved parts is coagulated, the netis taken off the cylinder, and finishedand dyed.

Artificial Wool 1, wool recovered fromrags, the fibers are spun again; 2, va-rious vegetable fibers, like jute or dha,are treated with chemicals to resem-ble wool in looks and feel. Thesefiibers are usually mixed with realwool.

Asaltus Fleece of the wild goat and sheepin Thibet, used for shawls.

Asan Usually a small size East Indianprayer rug with hand-knotted pile.

Asbestos A gray mineral which bysoftening in hot water can be sepa-rated into straight, lustrous fibers.

Used for fireproof materials. It is

difficult to spin and is not dyed. Its

solution is sometimes used to rendertextiles noncombustible.

Asbestos Lace Term for lace renderednon-inflammable.

Aschodur Persian cotton fabric, dyedblack with sumac and iron; used for

garments by native women.

Asclepias Cotton Very soft and lustrousfiber, yielded by the pod of the milk-weed; used chiefly for stuffing.

Ashmara Commercial term for weak jutefiber from India.

Ashmouni Formerly a very importantvariety of Egyptian cotton, has a yel-lowish brown staple over an inch

long. Little cultivated.

Asimani Light East Indian fabric madeof silk and cotton, often made withzigzag stripes across.

Asimode Obsolete French trousering,made with heavy ply warp, formingribs, and fine filling, napped on theback. The face is given a smoothfinish.

ASP 11 AVA

Aspero Peruvian term for the native cot-

ton: nailed in England, full roughPeruvian.

Assais Strong fiber, yielded by the Assaispalm of Brazil; used for cordage andcoarse fabrics .

Assam East Indian cotton, having aharsh, white staple.

Assemble Doubled sohappe yarn, madein France.

Assili Egyptian raw cotton.

Assorcebunder The lowest grade of Ben-gal raw silk.

Assouplissage Softening of the de-gummed and bleached raw silk fiber

in boiling water.

Astar Muslin made in Asia Minor, usedin Turkey for turbans and underwear.Has three grades, called dagbezd,thadirbezi and churumbezi; or best,medium and low.

Asteri Calico usesd for lining in Persia.

Asticotine Lightweight, fulled, Frenchwoolen cloth; slightly elastic bothwarp and weft wise.

Astoli Cotton canvas, made in Dublinaccording to a newly patented process.It is waterproof and good heat insu-lator, and does not contain rubber; it

comes 56 inches wide and is used for

carriage and automobile tops.

Astra Work Consists of stars, whichpreviously have been embroideredover linen, cut out and appliqued.

Astrachan A curl-pile fabric, knitted orwoven, made to imitate the fur of thatname. The expensive grades aremade of yarn curled before weavingand the fabric is woven with wires,raising loops, which are left intactor cut afterward, while the cheapergrades have the nap scratched up in

the finishing. The pile is formed withmohair yarn of slack twist.

Asu Blue, yellow and red cotton threadused for embroidery in India.

Atabi or Otabi Medieval dress goods ofArabic origin, made of mixture of silkand cotton in various colors.

Atchiabanes Obsolete East Indian calico.

Atlas 1, lightweight satin lining of silkface and cotton back, with a glossyfinish; 2, in France, England, Ger-many and Austria, a very highly fin-

ished silk fabric in eight-leaf satinweave. Used for dress fabric andlining, the latter made with cottonback; originally from India.

Atlasgradl A linen fabric in Germanyand Austria, made witth five-leafsatin stripes in linen and cotton back.Used for bed linen.

Attalea Wash fabric used in England fortrimming sailors' suits.

Attalia Twilled cotton cloth in India.

Attalic Thread made with flat gold stripwound around a wool or linen core.

Attalic Stuffs Of Asiatic origin duringthe Middle Ages; woven of gold threadmixed with other fibers.

Attushi A hard and rough fabric madeby the Ainu women (Japan), of thebast fibers of the elm tree; used for

clothing by the natives.

Aubusson Very fine tapestry from A.,France.

Aucube Wool rug made in Belgium.Au Fuseau Name for reseau ground in

laces when made on the pillow.

Augsburg Checks Fine checked ginghamsmade in A., Germany, and exported to

England and India.

Augusta Fustian 17th century Englishworsted.

Augustine Obsolete cotton and silk fabricmade in Rouen, France.

Aumale Coarse French serge made of in-ferior wool; used for drapery, lining;obsolete.

Au Passe Also called satin stitch or longstitch; used in all kinds of em-broidery over any ground, the threadbeing worked across the materialwithout any raised foundation.

Aupoz Native name in the PhilippineIslands for the intermediate fibrouslayer in the Musa textilie; used forweaving sheer fabrics.

Auquili Coarse bagging made in Syria;the better grades dyed blue or arepartly white and always mixed withcotton.

Aureate A rich silk satin of yellow color;used in England during Henry VIII;now obsolete.

Aures Sort of caddis or stout twilledshorn woolen, known in France asfleuret.

Aurillac Lace A French bobbin lace,made with close patterns.

Auriphrygium Ancient name for fabrics,usually silks, richly embroidered withgold.

Auroclavum Gold tissue of the MiddleAges; used for robes worn by Statedignitaries.

Australian Crepe A crinkled fabric, madewith cotton warp and worsted filling.

Austria A twilled silk umbrella cloth.

Automobile Tire Cloth Very strong,plain woven, stout and heavy cottonfabric, made with heavy yarn of thelongest staple. Used for automobiletires.

Auvergne Lace French bobbin lace ofno distinct character.

Auxerre White linen bobbin lace, madein France.

Auxonne French hemp canvas, made invarious widths, stripes or checked;-bleached or gray.

Auxy Fine, soft knitting wool yarnmade in France and used in the fin-est grades of women's hosiery.

Ava Cotton Grown in India, has a fair

staple.

Avantagee (French name for the bestgrade of Nankin silk.

Avasca A coarse, durable fabric, madeby the natives of Peru from alpaca;used for garments.

AVE 12 BAG

Ave Maria Xarrow French peasantbobbin lace with plaited ground andvery simple patterns. The edges aremade with cloth stitch. Similar to

the Valencienne (See).

Avignon Light, French silk taffeta lin-

ing.

Avila Spanish wool from the ProvinceA.

Avouet Persian wool from three-year-old sheep; used for rugs.

Awassi Fine carpet wool, mostly col-

ored, from Mesopotamia.Awning A very stout and durable can-

vas cloth, made with bright and widestripes.

Axminster 1, originally hand made pile

carpets, made in England after theOriental rugs. It was made on handlooms; the pile was of worsted, the

warp and weft of linen; 2, woven ona power loom, but tufted by handlike an Oriental rug. The patent Ax-minster is woven entirely, chenille

being used for filling.

Ayrishke A Japanese silk brocade withflower patterns.

Ayrshire 'Fine twilled woolen blanketmade in England.

Azamgar East Indian fabric, made ofcotton and silk in satin weave.

Azara or Azera Fine East Indian mus-lin.

Azazul Sheer East Indian muslin, withwarp stripes of wild silk.

Azo Colors 'Artificial dyestuffs, insolubleIn water; they are developed directlyon the fiber; used on cotton.

Azores 'Loosely woven, thick, longhaired woolens.

B

Babci Sort of white sisal hemp fiber

from Yucatan.

Baby Flannel Bleached, lightweightsoft wool flannel of plain weave;used for children's underwear.

Baby Irish Fine, narrow and flat Irishcrochet lace.

Baby Lace Narrow lace used for trim-ming babies' caps; originally an Eng-lish pillow lace, also called EnglishLille.

Baby Ribbon The narrowest ribbons,usually silk in pale blue or pink color.

Baccaba Very strong leaf fiber, yieldedby the Turu palm in Brazil; used for

ropes.

Back The reverse side or wrong side ofa fabric. See Tapestry Back andRug Back.

Back Filling Set of weft threads, form-ing the back of many modern wors-ted cloths. It is used to give weightto the fabric.

Back Stitch 1, in knitting, see pearl; 2,

identical with hem stitch (See); for

embroidery and Berlin wool work.Back Stitch Embroidery Done with back

stitch, upon any foundation, in out-line without any filling.

Back Washing The second scouring towhich wool (in sliver or top form)is subjected.

Backed Cloth A fabric with an extrawarp or filling or both at the back inorder to increase the weight of thecloth.

Backing Strengthening applique orother embroidery if the materials ap-plied are not of the same strengthas the foundation.

Bad In the Bible denotes fine linenfabric.

Badan Khas Fine cotton muslin fromIndia.

Baden Stout, plain woven linen fabricmade in Baden, Germany.

Baden Embroidery. Applique work, thepatterns, which are leaves and flow-ers, often painted, are cut out, sewnon a foundation of a contrasting col-

or, the edges worked around withchain stitch and the veins with her-ringbone or feather stitch.

Baden Hemp Superior grade of hemp,stripped by hand.

Baden Lace Good quality of bobbin lacemade by peasant women in Baden,Germany.

Badlan East Indian embroidery, execu-ted with flat gold or silver wire.

Badotlizhi Navajo blankets made with ablack center and two blue borders;formerly used for shawls by the na-tive women, now obsolete.

Baeta Under this name was known in

Spain and Portugal an imported,plain woven, loose, woolen fabric,

napped on one side.

Baffeta 1, plain woven bleached or bluecotton fabric in the African and EastIndian trade; 2, East Indian plainand closely woven cotton fabric; for-

merly exported to and printed in Eu-rope. Now largely displaced by cali-

coes, etc. See Bafta.

Baft See Bafta.

Baft Ribbon Consists of threads beingglued together to form a flat tapewithout any weft.

Bafta or Baftah 1, native name in EastAfrica for white cotton shirting orbleached cotton longcloth, made witha heavy size, imported from Eng-land; used for shirts, bed covers, etc.;

2, mixed cotton and silk cloth madein India; 3, a variety of dyed cottonfabrics imported in the African mar-kets.

Baftowa A very fine East Indian cottonmuslin.

Bag Strapping Very broad stay tape;used in England by upholsterers to

preserve selvages.

BAG 13 BAL

Bagasse Waste, obtained from the sisal

m scraping the pulp from the leaf

fibers.

Bagdad Wool Mostly dark carpet woolfrom Mesopotamia.

Bagdalin Cotton fabric woven in fancycolors in Persian style; now obsolete.

Bagging Coarse, plain woven jute fab-

ric, made with taped or double warpand heavy filling; it is used as it

comes from the loom. The socalled

cotton bagging is usually 32 oz. peryard, 44 inches wide, and made of

jute butts.

Baghaitloni Xavajo blankets with a slit

in the center, made in a large varietyof patterns.

Bagnos Obsolete name for Barege (See).

Baguette See Bayette.

Bahama 1, cotton from the West Indies;2, a commercial variety of Texas cot-

ton, the staple measuring 23-26 mil-

limeters, growing in large bolls,

yielding one-third of lint.

Bahia Brazilian cotton, having a fairly

strong but harsh and wiry staple.

Bahia Fibei Commercial grade of the

piassaba (See).

Bahmia Raw cotton having a fine sta-

ple; formerly grown in Egypt, butnow little cultivated.

Baigues 1, twilled woolen from Fland-ers, obsolete; 2, see Bayette.

Bailey Variety of upland cotton, grownin North Carolina; the staple is con-sidered of very good quality, measur-ing from 28 to 32 millimeters, the lint

being less than 30 per cent.

Baindix Sort of Turkish cotton.

Baique A coarse baize, made in Bel-gium.

Bairaiti Variety of fine raw cotton fromBengal, East India; used for Daccamuslins.

Baird A Highland tartan, composed ofblue and black stripes, narrowergreen stripes and bright red lines.

Baize Coarse, loosely and plain wovenwoolen flannel with long nap; usedfor lining, bags, etc., dyed usuallyred; obsolete.

Bajota Coarse bleached cotton fabric;formerly sold by the Holland-EastIndian Trading Co.

Bakhshis Rugs Persian rug of cottonwarp and weft, the loose coarse woolpile being tied in Ghiordes knot.

Bakrabadi Very soft and pale coloredIndian jute.

Baku Oriental hand knotted carpet,made of wool.

Balanced The warp and weft threadsare balanced when they are of equalthickness and of equal number in aninch.

Balao Sort of raw cotton from Brazil.

Balasse Stout, plain woven cotton fab-ric from Surat.

Balassoi East Indian fabric, made ofbast fibers of a tree.

Balastei A gold tissue, made in Viennaand used for trimmings.

Balbriggan Originally fine full fash-ioned hosiery and later knit under-wear made first in Ireland from un-bleached cotton without any nap. Atthe present all kinds of flat under-wear, knitted of Egyptian cotton ordyed to resemble it.

Baldacs Rich gold brocaded silks im-ported in the Middle Ages from Bag-dad and Damascus, also made in

Italy.

Baldachin, Baudekin, Baldaquin, or Bod-kin Rich medieval silk fabrics,originally from Bagdad, made withsilk warp and gold filling, oftenstudded with precious stones; usedfor church vestments, state occa-sions, etc. Later they were madeonly of silk, dyed crimson.

Bale A square or round package, intowhich the wool or ginned cottonfibers are compressed. They differ in

size, weight and form. The Ameri-can cotton bale is square, 54 incheslong, and 27 inches wide, the averageweight being 500 pounds, is coveredwith bagging and fastened with ties.

The Peruvian bale weighs about 200

pounds. The average weight of theEgyptian bale is 700 pounds. See also"Bessonette" and "Lowry."

Balicnong In the Philippines a fiberused for cordage.

Baline Plain woven, coarse fabric, madeof jute, hemp or cotton; used forbagging, stiffening for garments, orfor upholstery.

Baliziei Coarse, medium, strong leaf'fiber, yielded by the Heliconiain tropical America.

Balk Back A fabric with a soft back,left unshorn.

Ball Knitting cottons, silks, or wools areoften made up in ball or egg shape.

Ballanca Cloth made in Austria ofblack wool mixed with goat's hair.

Ballanges French dress goods, similarto bellings (see) ; now obsolete.

Balleta A woolen fabric made formerlyin Turkey and dyed red.

Balloon Fabrics Very strong, closelywoven, fine and light fabrics, made ofsilk, cotton, etc., in plain weave inequal number of warps and weftsrubberized, or otherwise made im-permeable by cementing severalthicknesses together; used for ballooncovers and aeroplanes.

Balloon Net Machine made net; usedfor lace foundation, similar to thenet used on balloons.

Ballymena A sort of Irish linen.

Ballushar East Indian silk fabric.

Balmoral 'Heavy and very strong wool-en fabric made in red, blue, and blackstripes.

BAL 14 BAR

Balsa Silky, yellowish seed hair of theBombax 'tree in Central America.

Balzarine or Balzorine 1, French namefor light calicoes and muslins printedwith outremer blue; 2, French dress

goods, made with grege or organzinewarp and heavier woolen filling,

forming cross ribs in alternatingdark and light colors; often printed;obsolete.

Bamia 1, variety of Egyptian cotton,

having a light brown staple of infe-

rior strength; 2, a strong, lustrouswhite stem fiber of good quality

yielded by the wild okra in Sudan;used for ropes by the natives.

Banaati 1, East Indian woolen falbric

made with a dress face; 2, bleachedcotton fabric from East India; obso-lete.

Banana Fiber is obtained in India fromone-year-old plants by steaming theunrolled stalk and scraping off the

outer skin. The fibers are pounded(wrapped up in a cloth) and cleaned.

They are very durable and said to beexcellent for fabrics intended for

tropical wear.

Bananeiras Strong and fairly flexible

fiber, yielded by the young leaf stalks

of a palm in Brazil; used for cord-

age.Banbhendi Same as Ran (see).

Banbury Plush Woolen plush, madewith cotton warp and wool pile usedfor upholstery in England.

Bancal or Banker Tapestry of green orblue color in medieval England.

Bancroft Commercial variety of cottonfrom Alabama and Georgia, the fiber

measuring 20-25 millimeters, growingin medium large bolls, yielding 30-32

per cent lint; it matures late. Alsocalled Herlong.

Band Work (Similar to filling, jours,modes (see all) ; used in needle laces

to fill the centers with fancy openstitches.

Bandage A narrow strip of cotton orlinen fabric, plain and loosely woven;used by surgeons.

Bandala Native name for the harderand stronger outer fiber of the Musatextilis, in the Philippine Islands;used for cordage.

Bandana 1, printing producing light col-

ored designs over a dark foundationby destroying the dyes throughbleaching agents; 2, cotton fabrics

having white or bright colored spotson a red or dark ground; used ashandkerchiefs; 3, cloth made of thelustrous fibers of various East In-dian plants, having pale yellow pat-terns over a dark foundation.

Banderoles Bolting cloth.

Bandhor Rugs made in Asia Minor ofwool and cotton; the very thick pileis tied in Ghiordes knot.

Bandura-wel Very pliable cord made of

the stem of the pitcher plant in Cey-lon.

Bandy Striped cotton fabric in WestAfrica, made of waste cotton.

Bangalore Hand woven woolen rug,made in India, with a knotted pile.

Banig Mats made of the leaves of theburi -palm, the .pandang or a sedge,called tikug, by the natives of thePhilippines.

Bankukri Raw cotton grown in Raj-putana, India; the staple is long andsilky.

Banner Cloth In England a grade ofplain woven strong cotton cloth;used for flags. Sometimes bunting is

known under this name.Bannockburn Originally a Scotch

tweed; a soft, slightly napped,twilled woolen fabric, made of chev-iot wool, having double-and-twistwarp and single filling; used forcoats, suits, etc.

Banos Native name for fiber used forropes and cords in the Philippines.

Bantine Raw silk from Genoa.Bantis Cotton cloth in Sierra Leone.Banuacalao Native name for fiber used

for ropes and cords in the Philip-pines.

Baobab A large tree in Africa and in-dia, yielding very strong bast fibers;used for cord and bagging in Africaand for saddles in India.

Baquiers Lowest grade of cotton yarnfrom Smyrna.

Bar 1, the edging of the buttonhole withbuttonhole stitches to prevent its

being torn; 2, in needle lacesthe threads connecting the varioussolid parts of the lace, made of twoor more strands and being eithercorded or covered with buttonholestitches. Also called bride, coxcomb,pearl, le.sr, and tie (see all). Bars arealso parts of pillow and macramelaces.

Baracan, Bouracan, Berkan, or PerkanClosely woven heavy cloth used forfurniture cover or drapery, made ofdoubled and hard twist worsted yarnwarp and three or six -ply, hard twistworsted filling and finished withmoire effect. It has warp ribs.

Baracan Grosgrain French term forbaracan (see), with a heavier weftthan warp.

Baracanee 'French term for warpribbed, plain colored fabrics.

Baracani Fabric made of mohair in

Italy during the Middle Ages.

Baras Coarse bagging made in Bo-hemia.

Barathea Dress goods of silk warp andworsted filling with a diaper-like orbroken warp rib effect. Also madewith cotton warp and silk filling in

small brocaded spots, diagonalstripes, etc. In England it is madewith silk warp and worsted filling, in

an eleven leaf, broken weft rib,

which hides the warp entirely, for

cheaper grades cotton warn is used.

Barawazi Cotton cloth woven with darkblue, yellow and red checks, the bor-der is in checks of red, black and yel-low; used in East Africa.

BAR 15 BAS

Barbadoes West Indian raw cotton.

Barcan Obsolete Holland camlet madewith a three-ply warp composed of one

strand of silk and two strands of

goat hair, and three or more ply of

angora wool yarn as filling, formingcross ribs.

Barcelona Raw cotton from Colombia.

Barcelona Handkerchiefs Originally madein Spain, now in England. They are

of fine twilled silk in plain colors,

checks and fancy patterns.

Barcelona Lace Stitch in old needle-

point, producing checkerboard effects

with buttonhole stitches.

Barchent A stout, twilled cotton fabric,

usually napped on the back, bleached,

dyed or printed. Used in Germany,Turkey and Austria for heavy under-wear, lining and also cheap dresses.

Barclay A Highland tartan, composed of

alternate blue and green stripes andcrossed by red lines.

Bareface Fabrics without any nap.

Barege 1, originally a light, Frenchhomespun, dyed in the yarn or print-ed, made of fine, hard twist worstedwarp and filling, producing a crepe-like effect. Later made with silk orcotton warp. It is a sheer fabric; usedfor dresses, etc. 2, now a lightweightdress goods woven like gauze, withfine silk warp and worsted filling;

called also woolen gauze and woolengrenadine. 3, shawl made in Franceof organzine warp and worsted filling.

Barege Yarn .Fine, hand-spun yarn; usedfor very fine gauze or veils.

Barfoul A cotton fabric in the WestAfrican trade; used for garments.

Bargarran Thread Hand-spun, bleachedlinen thread, made in the 18th centuryin Bargarran, Renfrewshire, by LadyBargarran and her daughters.

Barhak A stout East Indian fabric madeof camel hair.

Barhana Lowest grade of Smyrna rug;made in Ushak.

Bariga An East Indian silk fabric, for-

merly exported to Holland; now ob-solete.

Barinas Native name for fiber used for

ropes and cords in the Philippines.

Barleycorn Name for a small, reversedweave or for a weave similar to themat weave.

Barmen Lace Braid made of odd numberof yarns.

Barnes A commercial variety of late-

maturing American cotton of mediumlong staple.

Barnett A commercial variety of cottonfrom Alabama; the medium late ma-turing staple measures 23-25 milli-

meters, forming medium size bolls,

yielding 30-32 per cent lint.

Barnsley Crash Narrow crash used for

towels.

Barnsley Linen Fine gray or bleachedlinen cloth; used for embroidery.

Barn-tine Levant silk; used for trameand braids.

Baroy Native name for fiber used for

ropes and cords in the Philippines.

Barpours Fine French dress goods andmen's suiting; made of organzinewarp and very fine wool filling in

serge or brocaded weave; usually dyedblack, and worn for mourning.

Barracan Coarse, thick, strong cloth,

somewhat resembling camlet; used as

coating and cloaking; now made withsilk and wool warp and angora or

other goat hair weft, forming warpribs. See Baracan.

Barrage Figured table linen, made in

France, in three qualities.

Barragon or Moleskin Sort of strong cot-

ton fustian of coarse quality, twilled

and shorn; used for men's workingclothes.

Barragones In South America a closelywoven twilled cotton trousering withnarrow stripes; made in black or

bleached.

Barrangan Woolen cloth used in the

Middle Ages.

Barras Coarse, plain woven linen; usedfor bags.

Barratee Silk cloth, being a variety of

the barathea.

Barre -French for fabrics having bars or

stripes running weftwise.

Barred Witch Stitch Same as plaitedstitch.

Barrigudo Short, silky fiber, yielded bythe pod of the Bombax ventricosa, in

Brazil; used for stuffing.

Barroches Fine, unbleached East Indiancotton cloth; sort of bafta.

Barry A flaw in the fabric, showing barsin the direction of the warp or the

weft.

Barutine Inferior silk fabric, made in

Persia.

Basane French twilled woolen fabric,

made with a shaggy face.

Bashofu Very light and white fabric,

woven from the leaf fibers of the

banana tree in Japan; used for sum-mer undershirts.

Basic Colors Artificial dyestuffs obtainedfrom the coal tar, yielding brilliant

colors, quite fast to washing, but fugi-

tive in light. They are all derivedfrom substituted ammonia and areneutralized by acids, forming salts;

they are mostly used for cotton.

Basin 1, a white twilled cotton cloth, sim-ilar to dimity, made with or withoutnarrow stripes, sometimes napped onone side; used for vests; 2, a Frenchfabric, originated in the 16th century,made of pure or cotton mixed linen, or

hemp warp and cotton filling in atwill weave.

Basin Royal White striped, fine ticking,made of pure linen.

Basine Silk fabric, made with two sets

of fine warps, floating over every twofillings and interlaced with the third.

Basinetto Waste silk, obtained from the

hard inner skin of the cocoon, whichwas left over after the reeling.

BAS 16 BAU

Basket Braid A soutache braid, madewith five threads, each thread passingalternately under and over twothreads.

Basket Cloth or Connaught Cotton cloth,

similar to the Aida canvas (see); usedas foundation for embroidery.

Basket Lace 'Medieval English lace of un-known make.

Basket Stitch In embroidery, similar to

couching; produced by laying cords

upon the foundation and stitchingthem over to imitate the constructionof the basket.

Basket Weave Made by crossing two or

more warps and fillings each time;same as hopsack weave.

Basmas Closely woven fine linen or cot-ton cloth, in Turkey.

Bass Fiber Very strong, straight, coarseand smooth fiber, yielded by the

raphia in West Africa; used for

brushes.

Basse Lisse French term for low or hori-

zontal warp in tapestry work.

Bassinas, also Pelettes and TetelettesThe interior skin of the cocoon left

after the reeling; used for floret orwaste silk.

Bassine Trade name for the harsh andwiry leaf fiber yielded by the Palmyrapalm of India; used for brushes.

Bassines French term for taffeta rib-

bons.

Bast Long, strong fiber contained be-tween the outer bark and the inner

woody core of various plants andtrees, as' the jute, hemp, flax, ramie,linden, etc.

Bastancini Fine, sheer and bleachedlinen, finished with stiffener andbluing.

Bastard 1, general term for substitute;

2, a woolen fabric made in Englandduring the reign of Richard III.

Bastard Aloe Strong, leaf fiber yielded bythe Aloe vivipara in NorthwesternIndia; used for ropes.

Bastard Velvet Is placed between thevelvet and plush as to fineness andlength of pile.

Basting Cotton Cotton thread, used for

'basting; is similar to sewing cottonexcept that it is weaker and is notfinished as smoothly.

Basto East Indian name for heavily sized'bleached cotton shirting or bleachedlong cloth, imported from England;used for shirts, caps, bed covers, etc.

Basuto A commercial grade of SouthAfrican mohair.

Bataloni Of hemp warp and cotton filling,

usually dyed light blue; known in theLevant trade. ,

Batanores -Linen fabric imported in

Egypt; used for garments, etc.

Batarde 1, black wool exported throughAleppo; substitute for vicuna wool;2, solid colored French serge madewith 10 warps and five picks in arepeat.

Batavia 1, French term for a twill weaveforming diagonals; 2, serge made atleast with four harnesses.

Batchpath Commercial term for imma-ture jute fiber from India.

Bates Two commercial varieties of cot-ton from South Carolina, the staplemeasuring 24-27 millimeters andyielding about 33 per cent lint.

Bath Brussels Lace Name given to theDevonshire lace (see) in the 18th

century.

Bath Coating Light baize of great widthand long nap, comes in white or col-

ored; used for petticoats, bath robes,overcoats, etc.

Batik Javanese process of resist dyeingcotton, consisting of pouring moltenwax over the proposed patterns, thendye the cloth, after which the wax is

removed. The waxed patterns will nottake the dye. Usually blue, brownand orange colors are used.

Batiste or Cambric 1, the finest grade of

linen, woven plain in the gray, thenbleached; there are several grades asthe batiste claire, which is very lightand loosely woven, the batiste demi-claire is of stronger yarn and closer

texture; the batiste hollandee is close-

ly woven with a body; the batistelinen is still stronger; the Scotchbatiste is a fine, printed cotton dress'goods. 2, white or colored cotton mus-lin, finished with a heavy size; usedfor summer dresses, linings, etc.

Batiste Embroidery Formerly made overbatiste in imitation of laces.

Batnas Three-colored calico, in India.

Baton Rompu French, plain serge, madewith eight warps and four picks in a

repeat.

Batswing Thick, coarse cloth, woven in

gray into the shape of a seamless pet-ticoat.

Battenberg Braid Cotton or linen tapewith picot edge; used for laces andcurtains.

Battenberg Lace Patterns formed withnarrow tape, jointed together with va-rious brides.

Batting Slightly matted layers of rawcotton or wool; used for stuffing.

Battlemented In embroidery, a patternsimilar to the battlement of the oldfortresses.

Batuz 1, needlework consisting of sewingupon silk as a part of the pattern tobe made, very thin plates of gold orsilver, these plates often being ham-mered into low relief, now obsolete;2, medieval French silk fabrics, orna-mented with hammered gold leaves.

Baudekin See Baldachin.

Bauge A stout, thick, twilled fabric, sim-ilar to droguet. made of coarse woolin southern France.

Bauhinia Bast fiber of various EastIndian trees; dark reddish brown, verystrong; used for ropes, nets and coarsecloth

BAU 17 BED

Baupers 17th century English worstedfabric.

Bave The natural silk fiber as it is pro-duced by the silkworm; it containstwo single filaments, called brins, en-cased in natural gum or sericin.

Bavella Waste or floret silk.

Bay, Bayes 1, from the 16th to 18th

centuries, a fabric in England madeof worsted warp and woolen filling,

often mixed with silk, made for

clothes by religious societies; 2, aloosely woven, plain woolen cloth,

similar to a coarse flannel, naoped onone side and made usually in white,

black, red or green; it is called baiguein France. See also boy.

Bay State Shawl A twilled woolen shawlhaving plaid patterns; made in

Masschusetts in the 19th century.

Bayadere 1, alternate bright colored

stripes running woftwise in the fab-

ric, usually silk; 2, French dress

goods of silk warp and cotton filling,

with weft stripes, woven plain.

Bayes Plain and loosely woven wool fab-

ric, napped on one side, made in Eng-land; obsolete. See Bay.

Bayeta 1, coarse, homespun woolen,usually dyed in the piece in red, blueor green, and napped; used for

ponchos, etc., by the natives of Peruand Bolivia. 2, fulled woolen fabric,

usually black, navy or dark green;used for skirts in Colombia. 3, scar-let woolen blamket, woven by the

Navajo Indians, of single strand woolobtained from baize by unraveling it;

there is a nap on the blanket.

Bayeta de Cien Hilos Wool flannel in theLatin American markets, having avery long nap and twill weave; thewide selvage used to have four blue

stripes on white foundation.

Bayeta de Faxuela Coarse woolen baizein Peru, dyed red, blue and green;used for ponchos, etc.

Bayeta de Pellon Coarse wool flannelwoven like a serge, having a verylong nap; used in Latin America andChina for bed covers, etc.

Bayetones Ingleses Latin Americanname for English woolen coatings.

Bayette or Baguette White or black,loosely woven, plain, woolen fabric,similar to a coarse flannel, nappedon one side; made in France, Eng-land, etc. In France also called

baigue. See also Bay.

Bayeux Lace Closely resembles theChantilly (see). In the 18th centurvfirst silk laces were made here in ecruand then in white.

Bayeux Tapestry A piece of linen, 214feet long and 20 inches wide, containing in 72 groups the representation incolored wool embroidery of the eventsof the Norman invasion of England.Presumably embroidered by Matilda,wife of William the Conqueror. It

was discovered in Bayeux in 1728.

Bayko A yarn or thread having a coreimpregnated with a smooth metalliccoating in any color; used for weav-ing, knitting, embroidery, etc.

Bayutapaux In the African trade, acoarse cotton cloth with blue andwhite or red and white stripes.

Bays Coarse English worsted and woolenfabric worn by the peasants in QueenElizabeth's time. See Bay.

Bazac Evenly spun, fine, bleached cottonyarn from Palestine.

Beach Cloth Very light fabric, madeusually with cotton warp and mohairfilling in colors and designs; used formen's wear in summer.

Bead In Irish mill parlance, flaw in flaxyarn, caused by hard fibers whichcould not be drawn out.

Bead Yarn In England, yarn ornament-ed with small drops of gelatine orbeads.

Beading 1, on pillow lace, a simple head-ing; 2, narrow, machine-made inser-tions, made with openwork, to drawor bead a ribbon through or for trim-ming.

Bear Grass Coarse and very strong fiber,yielded by the Yucca fllamentosa;used for twine and cordage.

Bearskin A heavy, thick, twilled woolenovercoating with a thick, shaggy facenap.

Beatrice A weft twill weave, made 4-1.

Beau Ideal Narrow strips of machine-made imitation of English embroid-ery.

Beaujeu .French hemp canvas, about 27inches wide; used for furniture cover.

Beaujolais Cloth of cotton and linen,made in France.

Beaufort Stout hemp sailcloth, made inFrance.

Beaupers A woolen fabric of unknownstructure, mentioned in 17th CenturyEnglish writings.

Beaver 1, heavy woolen overcoating, wov-en with hard spun warp and two setsof filling. The face is napped andlaid down and closely shorn, the backie napped; 2, silk plush for hats withpressed down pile; 3, heavy doublefaced cotton cloth, made with fine,hard twist warp and coarse slack twistfilling; the cloth is napped stronglyon both sides, dented lengthwise. Isoften printed.

Beaver Shawl Reversible twilled woolenshawl, made stout and heavy.

Beaverteen A lighter grade of moleskin(see); it is dyed in the piece or .print-ed to resemble worsted and nappedon the back; used for men's wear.

Bebe iSee baby ribbon.

Beby Cotton scarfs, usually dyed blue,made in Syria.

Bed iLong and usually very wide medie-val English worsteds, made with fourharness twill.

BED 18 BEL

Bed Lace Sort of binding in England,made of white cotton, twilled or fig-

ured, employed for binding dimities.

Used also for furniture, when it is

printed.

Bed of Worsted Obsolete English wors-ted, similar to say; used for curtains,

hangings, etc.

Bedford Cloth Drab colored ribbed cloth

of great strength. It is a kind of rus-

sel cord (see), of all wool; used asdress goods.

Bedford Cord Stout, heavy cotton or

woolen fabric woven with raised cordor ridge effect running warp wise,often raised with a wadding warp. Thewarp is single or ply yarn while the

filling is usually single yarn. The fab-

ric is similar in appearance to pique;used for dresses, skirts, sporting cos-

tumes, etc. It is dyed in the piece.

Bedfordshire Lace 'English bobbin lace,

introduced in the 17th Century. It is

similar to the L/ille lace (see) madewith reseau ground and wavy, geomet-rical patterns.

Bedstout Striped or solid colored stout

cotton, woven in four-leaved twill.

Called also inlet.

Beer An arbitrary but customary numberof threads (in Leeds 38, in Bradford40 threads), which is taken in Eng-land as unit to express the war,p endsof a fabric.

Beetling A finishing process for cotton

and linen fabrics, consisting of ham-mering the fabric wound around aniron cylinder, producing a linen finish.

Begasse Trade term for the short, wastefibers out away from the sisal hempduring the scraping.

Beggars' Lace Sort of braid lace, a

species of coarse torchon and otherbobbin laces, made at Gueuse, France;now obsolete.

Beggars' Velvet, also Velours de GueuxA Lyons velvet of linen warp andcotton filling and pile.

Beguin Coarse, stout fabric, made of nat-

ural colored wool; used for garmentsby religious orders.

Behaai Sort of East Indian cotton mus-lin.

Bei bazar 'Second grade of the goat hairfrom Asia Minor.

Beige 1, natural color, as of wool; 2,

French serge, woven in Poitou,France; of natural black, brown or

gray wool; 3, worsted or cotton dress

goods, made in twill or plain weavein a mottled gray effect which is pro-duced either by the ply yarns beingspun of black and white or gray andwhite strands, or by printing the yarnin the sliver.

Beige Damas Natural colored thin wors-ted dress goods made with Jacquardfigures.

Beige Yarn Spun of a mixture of vari-

ous natural colored wool.

Beilik A coarse Turkish woolen or cottonscarf.

Bejuco Tough, very dark colored andcoarse fiber, obtained from the barkof a creeper in South America; usedfor heavy cordage.

Beldia Very heavy shrinking, coarsewool of Morocco.

Beledin 1, sort of raw silk from theLevant; 2, inferior grade of cottonyarn from the Levant.

Belelac or Belelais Sort of East Indiansilk taffeta.

Belesmes Coarse hemp canvas, made in

'France, used as ticking.

Belgamire 'Linen with flower patterns of

silk, formerly made at Rouen.

Belgian Laces Include Antwerp, Brus-sels, Malines and Valencienne laces,all pillow, except the modern Brus-sels pointgaze. At the present thegrounds are machine made and thepatterns or twigs on the pillow.

Belgian Tapestry English jute draperywith an admixture of linen.

Belgian Ticking Stout linen and cottonfabric with satin face. Used for up-holstery and bedding.

Belgrade Braid Open work flat braid,made of cotton yarn, sized and glazedto imitate straw braid; used for mil-

linery.

Belgravian Embroidery Patterns ofleaves are traced on a broad braid,filled in with bugles sewn with floss

silk, then the braid ie cut around theedges of the leaves.

Bel inge Stout, twilled (French suiting,made with linen warp and woolen.filling.

Bell -Isles 'Eighteenth century woolenfabric in England.

Bellacosa JBrocaded silk cloth, interwovenwith gold and silver threads, made in

imitation of the old Venetian bro-cades.

Bellchester Sort of English velvet.

Belle Creole <A commercial variety of

American cotton, having a long,strong, soft and silky staple of highpercentage of yield.

Sellings English dress goods of flax or

hemp warp and woolen filling, or madeentirely of wool.

Belting 1, narrow, very stout warp-facefabric, woven plain or in satin weave,made of cotton or hemp, also hair,used at the waistline in skirts, waistsand other garments; it comes usuallyblack, white or gray; 2, a narrow elas-

tic fabric, made of cotton, wool or

silk, often ornamented with woven fig-

ures, used for dress belts; 3, a veryheavy and strong fabric of cotton,

hemp or linen, used for power trans-mission.

Beluchistan 'Heavy rugs made of wool,

goat's and camel's hair, the long pile

is tied in Senna knot. The design con-sists of geometrical figures, angularhooks, etc., in rich, dull reds, browns,blues mixed with a little white.

Belwarp .English worsteds with cork-screw patterns.

BEL 19 BIA

Belzamire See Belgamire.

Bembergizing A German process for de-veloping a high lustre on wool. Theworsted yarn is treated in a bath of

bisulphate of soda at a high tempera-ture under mechanical tension to pre-vent shrinking. The yarn is then boiled

for an hour in a weak mineral acidunder relaxing tension and rinsed in

water. It produces a high lustre anda considerable elongation of the yarn,said to be one-third.

Ben Smith A commercial variety of cot-ton from Louisiana; the staple, ma-turing in medium time, measures 23-

26 millimeters, forming medium size

bolls; the yield of lint is about 33 percent.

Benares 'Sort of East Indian silver tis-

sue.

Benares Work Embroidery in coloredsilk and gold and silver on velvet

ground.Bender General trade name for cotton

grown along the Mississippi, Arkansasand the White rivers; the staple hasa good body, measuring from 1% to

1 3-16 inches in length.

Bend era Native East African name for

plain woven or twilled cotton fabrics,

dyed deep red. Used for flags.

Bengal 1, East Indian cotton having astrong, harsh staple of dull goldencolor; is very dirty; 2, thin cloth of

silk and hair, originally from B., India.

Bengal Linen A lustrous East Indian

cloth, woven from the fibers of the

bolls of a native plant.

Bengal Stripes Stout cotton fabric hav-ing alternate narrow, yarn-dyed blueand white warp stripes; used for

dresses, aprons, etc. Also made of

cotton and wool.

Bengaline Lightweight dress goods,woven with silk warp and heaviercotton or woolen filling, forming col-

ored cross ribs heavier than in poplin.Sometimes two picks are in the sameshed. Often also printed. Thecheaper grades are all cotton.

Berampaat Plain woven, coarse cotton

cloth, made in Surat; now obsolete.

Berbiche Cotton Trade name for

Brazilian cotton.

Berdelik Turkish name far Oriental rugsintended as wall hangings or cur-tains. They are generally of silk,

light in weight and have delicatecolors.

Bergamo, Bergamot or Bergamee All-wool rugs made in Asia Minor; warpand weft are usually dyed; themedium long pile is tied in Ghiordesknots. The designs are floral or largegeometrical figures; orange and redsare often used. The ends are finishedwith a red selvage and short fringe.The coarser grades are made withhemp or linen warp and cotton pile.

Berlin Canvas 'Every two threads in thewarp and filling are drawn together,thus forming squares and leavingopen spaces for the wool yarn withwhich it is embroidered.

Berlin Wool Yarn for knitting and em-broidery on open or coarse canvas,made of fine merino wool in singleand double yarn.

Berlin Work Embroidery in wool overopen canvas or perforated Berlin pat-terns with flower, bird or landscapedesigns. Originally cross, cushiontapestry satin and tent stitches wereused.

Berluche See Breluche.

Berne Embroidery In white or goldbeads or silver and gold wire uponblack velvet in small, detached spraysof conventional flowers and leaves.

Berupate See Berampaat.Besooty Sort of East Indian cotton mus-

lin; now obsolete.

Bessonette Improved system of balingcotton. The ginned fibers are pressedinto a continuous sheet and woundaround a core, producing a cylindricalbale of 22 inches diameter and 34 or48 inches long. The weight of thebales is 275 and 425 pounds, accord-ing to the length. No ties are used,the bale being covered with bagging.

Betinada Strong and durable bast fiberyielded by the Melochia arborea inthe Andaman Islands; used for fish-ing nets.

Bethilles East Indian, loosely woven cot-ton cloth, with white stripes or whitewindow plaids. See Allegias.

Bet i lies It is similar to an open textureSwiss muslin; used for waists, etc.,in the Philippines. They come plain,striped, checked or figured.

Bezane In France, various bleached,striped or dyed Bengal cottons andcalicoes.

Bezetta See Nacarat 2.

Bhabui Silky leaf fiber yielded by thcotton grass in India; used for ropes,twine and cordage.

Bhangulpore East Indian raw cotton.

Bhatial Strong, coarse Indian jute; usedfor ropes.

Bhavalpui Striped or checked silks madein East India.

Bhownuggar East Indian cotton havinga medium long, white staple, oftendirty.

Biambonnees East Indian cloth, madewholly of bast fibers and dyed darkbrown or dark yellow.

Biaritz A light, corded, woolen dressgoods, made in France; obsolete.

Biarritz Fantasia A mercerized, dobby,fine cotton cheviot in Spain; export-ed to the Philippines.

Bias White cotton goods in the Bokharaand Siberian trade.

Biasse Sort of raw silk of Levant.

Biaz Lightweight, white, glossy cottoncloth of Russian origin; used forsummer garments. It is more or less

starched, heavily pressed and beetled,often mercerized. Comes in narrowwidths.

BIA 20 BLA

Biaza Sort of camlet, made of camel'shair by the Astrakhan Tartars.

Bibeli Silk pillow lace, made in Smyrna.Biboci Native Bolivian name for the

fibrous bark of the couratari tree;used for blankets, clothing, etc.

Biege A loosely woven dress goods, orig-inally of worsted yarn, but now alsomade of cotton. It is woven in two-and-two twill and is either piece dyedor printed, or the better grades wovenof mixture yarns.

Bielefeld Very good quality of linenmade in B., Germany.

Big Boll A commercial variety of cottonfrom California, the staple, measuring25-28 millimeters, forms large bolls;the yield of lint is 34-35 per cent.

Bijar Rugs Heavy, all-wool Persianrugs, the thick pile being tied in

Ghiordes knots. Primary reds, blues,etc., are most used in medallion, scroll

and floral designs.

Bikasab Fabric made of mixture of cot-ton and silk in Central Asia, andbeetled in finishing. It has narrowstripes.

Bilagai Navajo blankets woven withnarrow red and white cross stripesand a blue border. Formerly usedas shawls by the native women; nowobsolete.

Bilatu East Indian cotton having acoarse, weak and brittle staple.

Billiard Cloth Thick, stout and widefabric, made of fine merino spun onthe woolen principle and felted in thefinishing. It is dyed green in thepiece. Woven in a three-harnesstwill.

Bimlipatam Jute Strong fiber yielded bya species of hemp, the hibiscus can-nabinus, in India; used as jute sub-stitute; also called Bombay hemp.

Bin Bagging Plain woven, coarse jutecloth, dyed yellowish brown to imitatehemp.

Binche Lace Belgian bobbing lace, origi-nally very similar to the Valenciennes(see), consisting of mesh patternsover spider and rosette ground. Themodern b. lace is made of flat bobbinsprigs applied to machine net founda-tion.

Bindelli Gold, silver or silk galloonsmade in Milan.

Binder Pick^A filling in pile fabrics,serving to hold the pile in place.

Binders Fibers which connect the stapleso as to form a fleece.

Binding 1, plain woven cotton muslin,heavily starched and embossed; usedfor binding books; 2, the process oftacking the two separate fabrics inthe double cloth together in the loom;3, any thread which is woven intoa double or triple cloth in order tohold the various layers together;4, solid colored tape or braid, used tobind the edges of garments.

Bingo- i Fine grade of Japanese matrush; used also for lamp wicks.

Bionde Italian blond lace (see).

Birdseye Small, diamond pattern with adot in the center.

Birdseye Diamond An 18th century pureworsted fabric, in England.

Birdseye Diaper Called so after its smalldesign; made in linen or cotton.

Birdsnest Mat Knitted wool mat withcombed-out napped surface.

Biredshend Persian knotted carpet ofvery close texture, often made withmotifs of palm leaves and shawl de-signs.

Biretz 'Double-faced woolen fabric, hav-ing ribs on one side and cashmeretwilled on the reverse.

Birrus See Burel.

Bisette 1, French term for an em-broidered braid; 2, narrow and coarsewhite linen pillow lace made by thepeasants in Seine et Oise, France;originated in the 17th century.

Bishop's Lawn A very light, fine, plainwoven cotton dress goods, given abluish starch finish. Originated inEngland, where it is made usually 32inches wide, weighing five or sixounces a yard; used by the clergy.

Bislint Very narrow ribbon made inWestphalia.

Bisonne A French woolen fabric, made ofnatural gray wool used for lininggarments.

Bissonata Coarse woolen cloth, dyedblack or brown, made in France forclerical garments.

Bissuti See Amamee.Bitlis Oriental wool carpet made in B,

Asiatic Turkey (Anatolia).Bitre Description of linen of Brabant.Bivouac Woolen dress goods, made with

nub yarn in mixture effect.

Black Fiber (Commercial name for a dark,smooth and glossy fiber, obtained fromthe leaves of a species of the Car-yota palm in Ceylon. It is similarto and a substitute for horsehair.

Black Faced A medium long and usuallykempy lustrous wool, yielded by thesheep of the same name in Scotland;used for homespuns, carpets.

Black Seed Commercial term for vari-ous American cottons with a smoothblack seed.

Black Superfine -Commercial term for thefinest grade of -black woolen suitingformerly made in West of England;fulled napped, shorn and finished witha eoft, lustrous face; used for dresssuits.

Black Thread In flax spinning yarnspoiled by oil.

Black Watch A very dark tartan wornby the Forty-second Royal HighlandRegiment, composed as follows: Verydark green bar, split in the middle bya group of narrow black, navy andblack lines; 'black stripe, half thewidth of the green bar; narrow bluestripe, narrow black stripe, narrowblue stripe, narrow black stripe; *darkblue stripe, half of the green in width;repeat group described between thetwo * in reversed order.

BLA 21 BLY

Blackjack Staple Trade term for cotton

staple containing large pieces of

leaves.

Blanc In the 'French dry goods trade

everything which is bleached, irre-

spective of material.

Blancards French linen made in Rouenof half bleached flax yarn.

Blandford Lace Fine English pillow lace

of the 18th Century; made in B.

Blanguin Plain woven, bleached cotton

sheeting in Cuba.

Blanket 1, a thick and heavily napped,twilled woolen fabric, often with anadmixture of cotton; used for bedcovers; horse blankets are very heavyand felted. iBlankets are used by un-civilized tribes as clothing. See Nava-jo; 2, name for the 2-2 twill and also

an eight-harness satin weave; 3,

weave room term indicating a short

leng-th of a fabric showing one or anumber of ranges of patterns made in

a variety of colors.

Blanket Stitch A fancy buttonhole stitch

used as castover on the edges of the

applique patterns.

Blaquets Stout heavy, milled woolen fab-

ric; used on the cylinders of the

printing machines.

Blarney 1, fine Irish tweed suiting; 2,

Irish woolen knitting yarn, heavierand harder than the Connaught.

Blassas 'Inferior Spanish raw wool.

Blatta, Blatthin Medieval silk fabric

dyed .purple and interwoven with gold.

Bleaching The process of destroying thenatural coloring matter in textiles andrendering them white, either by ex-

posing them to the sun, stretched ona lawn and subjected to repeated wet-ting, or by treating the textiles withchlorin, sulphuric acid or other chem-icals.

Bleaching Powder Used very extensivelyin weak solution for bleaching vegeta-ble fibers (only). Strong solution will

form oxycellulose on cotton and turnlinen yellow. Bleaching powder will

give a lustrous or crinkled finish to

animal fibers after a brief treatmentbut will rot them if treated too long.Also called chlorine.

Bleeding Running color in the fabric or

yarn.

BlendingProcess of mixing various fibers

together, -producing mixtures in colors

or qualities. The different fibers are

placed in thin layers on top of eachother, taking care that no particularfiber is given prominence. The lengthof the fibers ie a very important mat-ter and short fibers are usually best

adapted for blending.

Bley Irish term for unbleached beetledlinen.

Blicourt Fine French serge made in nar-row widths of fine wool; used for lin-

ing garments; obsolete.

Blind Chintz Plain woven printed andcalendered cottons, made in variouscolors and designs, mainly in stripes,and resembling Venetian blinds.

Blind Cord Hade of linen, cotton or jute;used for blinds.

Blind Ticking Stout twilled material,combination of linen and cotton in all

colors and stripes.

Blind Twill Trade name in England for

a twill showing only indistinctly.

Bliss Tweed Fine English woolen, similarto whipcord; used for liveries, etc.

Blister Cloth Usually a double fabric,woven to produce blister effects.

Blister Effect Novelty silk dress soodswith Jacquard figures on crepe foun-dation; the crepe shrinks in the fin-

ish, .producing blisters in the figures.

Blodbende 'Medieval English name for

narrow silk ribbon, worn tied aroundthe arm after bleeding.

Blondes Bobbin or needle point laces

made originally of natural yellow silk

in the l'8th Century, later also of blackor colored silk. Originally called

blondes ecrus or Nankings, whencethe silk came. Blondes de fantaisie

had machine made silk net groundwith the design darned into. Blondesen persil with small parsley leavesstrewn over the ground. Blondes des

application have bobbin or needle

point sprigs appliqued over machinemade ground. Fausse blondes are silk

tulles embellished with floss silk in

various stitches.

Blonde de Fil Sometimes applied to mig-nonette lace (see).

Blondes en Persil 'See Blondes.

Blond Quilling Resembles bobbin quilling

but made of silk, is highly sized andfinished; used for frills, ruffles.

Blondines 18th Century woolen fabric in

England.

Blood Denotes the fineness of the wool as

compared with pure merino, which is

called full blood.

Bloom The glossy finish imparted to cer-

tain woolen fabrics in the calender-

ing.

B| ue .English and crossbred wool, takenfrom the best part of the average lus-

ter fleece; spins to 36s.

Blue Bafts 'Coarse muslin made in Man-chester for the African trade for

wearing apparel.

Blue East Indian Linen^Sort of bafta

(see).

Blue Flax Trade term for flax fromBruges, Malines, Ypres, Lokeren,Ghent and other places in Belgium;it is steeped in still water and hasa dark color.

Blue Mottle Light and sheer narrow cot-

ton fabric made in England; it hasa mottled blue effect.

Bluette Plain woven cotton fabric, dyedblue.

Blumly Linen Swiss twill linen withprinted ground, leaving out white,blue or red flowers.

Blunk In England a stout cotton or linen

fabric made to be printed in colors.

Blyat, Bleaunt or Pliat Rich silk dress

goods of the Middle Ages.

BOA 22 BOM

Boardy 'Wool fabrics which have a hard,board-like feel, said to be caused bybeing dyed in the grease.

Bob 1, a commercial variety of Americancotton, the early ripening staple meas-uring 25-28 millimeters, forming me-dium size bolls; the yield of lint is

30-32 per cent. Also called Ozier;2, in pillow and needle laces the orna-ment connecting the bars between thepatterns. Identical with the crescentcrown, spine or thorn.

Bobbin A cotton cord employed in

dressmaking for making a ribbed edgeby enclosing it in a strip of the ma-terial.

Bobbin Fining Trade term for machinemade laces similar to the shadow lace,usually with a heavy thread outliningthe pattern.

Bobbin Lace Lace made with bobbins ona pillow over which the pricked pat-tern is stretched. Also called bonelace and pillow lace.

Bobbinnet iMachine-made, hexagonal net,used for quillings, trimmings, etc.

Bobbin Quilling >Plain cotton net usedfor frills.

Bobbin Tape 'Made in cotton and in linen,both round and flat.

Bocasine A plain woven, very firm linenfabric, given a high finish; obsolete.

Boccadillos In the Spanish and SouthAmerican trade a thin, bleached andsized linen, used for shirts, etc.

Boccage A damaek table linen, made inCalvados, France.

Boccassini 'Fine, muslin-like, bleachedcotton cloth, made in the southernBalkan States.

Booking Coarse English woolen flannelresembling baize.

Booking Bay An 18th Century Englishworsted fabric.

Bodiasse Common Chinese silk.

Body 'The solid, compact feel of textilefabrics.

Bofu 'French silk drese goods of theMiddle Ages.

Bogotana White madapolam in Colombiafrom 28 to 35 inches wide, having asoft finish.

Bohemian Flax Fine flax of long, cleanand lustrous fibers.

Bohemian Lace Bobbin or machine lacewith flowing tape on a net ground ascharacteristic feature. Mostly madeas applique lace (see).

Boil Out Test to find out if the clothcontains other fiber than wool. Thefabric is boiled in solution of potash,which will dissolve the wool fibers,while cotton and other vegetablefibers remain intact.

Boiled Linen Trade term for linen clothboiled in soda lye and thus degummed.

Boiled Off Silk Which has all of its nat-ural sum removed by warm solutionof soap. The gum is from 17 to 25per cent of the weight.

Bokas Sort of blue and white cotton clothof Surat.

Bokeram (Same as Buckram (see).

Bokhara or Tekke Turkoman 1, all-woolknotted carpet with long pile. Groundis usually of bright red or reddishbrown with various ochre and othercolored patterns. The weave is notclose, the patterns being mostly ofgeometrical nature; 2, very light,transparent, natural colored silk ofplain weave.

Bokhara Khilim 'Made in Turkestan byembroidering square and octagonal de-signs on a dark red, woven founda-tion; used for .portieres.

Bola 'Strong and long fiber, not affectedby water, yielded by the bark of thehibiscus tree in India; used for cord-age.

Bolbees 1, coarse, bleached linen made in

Normandy; 2, light blue coloredFrench linen.

Bolivar 'Light and loosely woven all-woolflannel dyed in gray.

Bolivar County A commercial variety ofcotton from Louisiana, the early ma-turing bolls yielding: about 30 per centof lint.

Boll The seed pod of the cotton. It hasfrom three to five cells, each cell con-taining from 6 to 11 seeds, these seedsbeing covered with the cotton fibers.

Bollies 'Cotton obtained from the half

open or small bolls.

Bolo-bolo A West African, very strongand long fiber, yielded by the Honck-enya ficifolia.

Bologna Gauze Finest silk gauze,, craped,and dyed black; used for mourningveils; white for veils.

Bolsa 'Cotton bagging in Argentine;usually a three harness drill.

Bolt A piece of cloth rolled or folded forthe retail market.

Bolting Cloth Sheer, veil-like gauze, usedfor sifting flour, etc.; made of stronghard spun silk or cotton yarn, also

of hair or wool.

Bolton Counts Fine cotton yarn madeof Sea Island cotton in England.

,Bolton Sheeting English thick, coarse,

twilled and unbleached cotton: usedfor crewel embroidery, for dresses,

aprons, hanging.

Bombanas Fibers yielded by the leavesof the Panama palm; used for hatbraids, etc.

Bombasi 1, cotton bunting in Venezuela;2, printed cotton cloth, napped on oneside; used in Paraguay.

Sombasin 1, obsolete silk or cotton fab-ric made in Italy and France; usedfor lining; 2, various fabrics in the

present trade made usually of wool.

Among them an English dress goodsmade of silk warp and worsted filling

in serge weave and dyed in the piece,

usually black; used for mourning.

Bombasin Cotton Early name for Bra-zilian cotton.

BOM 23 BOU

Bombast 1, any soft fabric which is usedfor padding; hair or wool stuffing for

clothing, during Elizabeth and Jamesin England; 2, a medieval Orientalcotton fabric.

Bombax 1, cotton tree of the Malvaceafamily, the white or brownish fiber

used for stuffing pillo'ws, etc., in SouthAmerica and West Indies; 2, medievalname for Bombasine (see).

Bombay Medium weight, gray cottonsheeting in Canada.

Bombay Aloe Fiber Strong fiber, yieldedby the leaves of the bastard aloe in

India; used for cordage.

Bombay Hemp, Gambo Hemp or Bimlipa-tam Strong fiber, yielded by a va-riety of hemp in India; used as sub-stitute for jute.

Bombazet In France a smooth, plainwoven or twilled cloth of hard spunEnglish worsted yarn, with singlewarp, finished without a glaze.

Bombazine 1. in the 16th Century a whiteworsted and silk fabric in England;2, see Bombasin.

Bombe 'French term in embroidery, dress-

making, meaning puffed or rounded.

Bonbon Fine French hosiery.Bone The hard feel in some woolen fab-

rics which have been fulled too stiff.

Bone Lace 'Similar to pillow or bobbinlace (see).

Bongra Plain woven, coarse fabric madeby the natives of East India from net-tle fibers.

Bonne Femme French, stout silk taffeta

of very good quality, made blackwithout any luster or finish; used for

scarfs, etc.; obsolete.

Bonnaz Embroidery Made by the Bonnazmachine in chainstitch design over amesh foundation; used for curtains.

Bontane Oblong pieces of cotton cloth,

usually dyed blue and red; worn asloincloth in Africa.

Bonten Coarse, sailor's linen, with blueand white or red and white checks.

Book Silk reeled by the natives of Chinain home industry, is done up in

"books" containing a dozen largehanks.

Book Cloth Usually a calico, which is

colored, heavily sized and embossedbetween hot rollers. The dyeing is

either in the piece, as in the ordinar-

ily colored book cloths, or simplycolored on the face, called fancy col-

ored cloths.

Book Harness Muslin A light cottonmuslin, upon which the figures areformed by a heavy, extra weftyarn of slack twist, the floats beingcut away; used for curtains, etc.

Book Muslin or Buke Muslin 1, coarse,open and heavy cotton fabric, dyedIn the piece and sized very heavilyand given a glazed finish; used for

underlining, millinery; 2, plain mus-lin, stiffened to imitate French lawn;3, hard, bluish and heavily dressedcotton muslin; 4, soft muslin madein Imitation of the Indian buke; usedfor tambour embroidery.

Bookbinders' Cloth Plain woven cottonfabric, heavily starched and glazed;used for book binding.

Bookfold Certain sheer linen and cottonfabrics are folded once lengthwiseand twice crosswise.

Boomazey Twilled Russian cotton cloth,

printed on the face and napped onthe back; used for shirts, dresses,etc., in the winter.

Boombi Leaf fiber yielded by the Xeroteslongifolia in Australia; used for

coarse bags.

Borandjik A very fine, white cotton mus-lin, often crinkled; used for dresses

by peasant women in Sertvia andRoumania.

Borato 17th century, very light, Englishfabric of silk and fine wool.

Borax Used in calico printing and to

ferment logwood.

Bord Same as Burda.

Bordat Coarse cotton cloth used in lowerEgypt by the poorer classes forclothes.

Bordati Mixture of cotton and silk madein Genoa; made plain or with floweror stripe patterns; some grades usedin the Orient as loincloth.

Borde French term for edged or boundor bordered.

Border Printed or woven pattern whichruns along the edge of the fabric;

part of pattern in lace, which formsthe outer edge.

Borrat Black cotton, similar to the

berkan, made in Saxony; now ob-solete.

Borre East Indian cotton or nettle cloth.

Borsley 18th century, English, pureworsted fabric.

Bosnia Rug Originally knitted on plainframes in widths of about 16 inches;patterns composed of straight lines.

Bostous 'French fabric, woven stout of

ply yarn of silk, wool or linen.

Bota Persian name for the palm pat-terns in Oriental rugs.

Botany 1, fine merino wool grown aroundBotany Bay, Australia; 2, generalterm for all classes of fine wool. Theyare sorted according to counts theywill spin, without any other names.

Botany Twill English twilled fabricmade entirely of Botany wool.

Botany Yarn English coarse knittingyarn for stockings.

Baubl in Stout, twilled, summer cottondress goods, changeable in blue andgreen; made in Bohemia for thePolish trade.

Boucassin French lining canvas, dyed,sized and calendered. Also a coarse,French linen ticking, heavily dressed.

Bouche Fine, French woolen cloth in

plain weave, undyed; worn by the

Spanish and Italian clergy as shirt-

ing.

BOU 24 BRA

Boucle 1, medium weight, soft, twilleddress goods, made of cotton or wool,having nub or loop yarn for filling.

The same effect is produced with aknitted fabric; 2, sometimes used todenote terry fabrics.

Bouillon, Bullion, or Purl Sort of tinselor flattened wire; used for embroider-ies, plaits, etc.

Bouilloner French for cockle (see).

Bouloire Sort of French linen made in B.

Boulvardee Half-bleached, coarse, Frenchhemp canvas; used by the countrypeople.

Boura French fabric made of wool andsilk.

Bouracan Obsolete, stout, waterproof,French coating camlet, made withwarp ribs; it was not fulled.

Bourat Strong, French canvas made ofunbleached tow.

Bourbon Cotton growing in India, theWest Indies, East Africa, etc., havinga medium long, silky, white and softfiber.

Bourdaloue Figured, French linen, withvarious geometrical designs, ofr in

damask weave, with small dobby pat-terns; used as tablecloth, etc.; obso-lete.

Bourdat See Bordat.

Bourdony Woolen dress goods, formerlymade at Gera, Germany.

Bourette 1, silk yarn spun of the carded,short fibers of waste silk; 2, Frenchfor hard-spun nub yarn; 3, rough-faced, lightweight, plain woven ortwilled dress goods, made with nubyarns; 4, Printed cloth made for tablecovers, etc., of nub silk waste

Bou rme Sort of Persian raw silk.

Bourras Obsolete, all-wool, coarse suit-

ing; used by the lower classes in

France.

Bourre 1, best grade of silk waste; 2,

white striped cotton cloth from AsiaMinor; 3, French for stuffed orwadded.

Bourre de Soie or Filoselle See SpunSilk.

Bout One complete round made in knit-ting.

Boutane Sort of dimity made in Cyprusand Chios.

Boutonne Cloth Cotton cloth in plain orJacquard effects; made of nub yarn.

Boutonniere, Point de Buttonhole stitchin hand-made point laces.

Bowking The process of boiling the cot-ton fabric in a solution of lime waterfor hours during the bleachingprocess.

Bowstring Hemp Elastic and very strongand durable leaf fiber yielded by sev-eral species of the Sansevieria in Asia,Africa and America; used for ropes,strings, etc.

Box Cloth Thick, coarse melton, usuallybuff, but also comes in any color;used for riding apparel, coach trim-mings and overcoats.

Boy, Boi Coarse, loosely woven flannellining, made of cotton warp and wooland noil filling.

Boyau Dress goods with alternatedstripes of satin and rep over a fig-ured taffeta foundation.

Boyaux .Hard spun, ply cotton yarn, usedas warp in genuine Beauvais andGobelin tapestries.

Boyd Prolific A commercial variety ofupland cotton, the staple, maturing inmedium time, measures 20-24 milli-

meters, forming small bolls and yield-ing 30-32 per cent lint.

Brabancon Lace >Xame given to Brusselslace.

Brabant Gray or half-bleached canvas,made of flax waste in Belgium.

Brabant Edge Combination of Brusselsand Venetian edge worked alternate-ly; used in needle-point lace.

Brabant Lace Same as Brussels Lace.

Brabant Linen or Blaams Linen Madearound Ghent, Belgium, by the peas-ants.

Brabantine In Italy, a bleached linen ofvarious fineness, imported fromHolland.

Bracking Trade term for the compulsorysorting or grading of flax in Russia.

Bradford Stuff Fine worsted dress goodsmade at Bradford, England.

Bradford System or English System In

spinning worsted yarns, the wool is

oiled before it is combed, the sliversare drawn by rolls, are twisted into arope and wound on bobbins; the yarnis composed of parallel fibers and is

quite smooth. See French System.

Bragg Long Staple A commercial vari-

ety of American cotton; the staple is

long, but not of uniform length, form-ing large, late maturing bolls; the

yield of lint is 30 per cent.

Braid Woven or plaited flat, round ortubular narrow fabric; for bindingor trimming.

Braid Wool Trade name for the long,lustrous wool grown in Indiana andKentucky.

Braided Rug The old fashioned rag rug;the strips of rags are first twisted into

wide, flat braids, which are woundspirally around a center, forming amat.

Braiding Ornamental needlework bysewing braid over cloth or braidformed into lace or other work.

Braize Narrow, sheer and light dressgoods made of silk warp and woolfilling, in solid colors and plaids; ob-solete.

Bramante White cotton cloth with stiff

starch dressing and semi-glazedfinish, in Colombia; from 26 to 35

inches wide; is coarser than the Bogo-tana.

Bran or Kleanka Sort of Russian buck-ram.

Branching Fibei The main veins of theleaves in bobbin lace sprigs.

BRA 25 BRI

Brandenbourg French for frogs andother ornamental trimming for but-tonholes.

Brandeum Rich silk-and-wool fabric in

medieval England; used for palls,

girdles, etc.

Brannon A commercial variety of cot-

ton from Texas; the staple, measur-ing 18-22 millimeters, forms smallbulls; the yield of lint is 32-35 percent.

Brasovian Piece-dyed diagonal or twilled

woolen fabrics, dyed usually blue;used for women's dresses in the Bal-kan States; imported from Austria-Hungary.

Bratos Purled Wool fabric made in Nor-wich, England, in the 17th century.

Brattice Cloth A very coarse, heavy andclosely woven cotton or hemp fabric;used in England in the mines.

Brawels or Chiadder Boraals White andblue striped East Indian calico of

loose weave; used by the Africantribes for turbans, etc.

Braying Term used in England to denotethe scouring of woolen fabrics aftertaken from the loom.

Brazier Peterkin See Peterkin.

Brazilian Baize In England, a mediumgrade of baize dyed orange color.

Brazilians In England regattas wovenof Brazil cotton; also madapolamsmade of that cotton.

Breacan Original (Gaelic) term for thetartan.

Breannes Bleached, French linen ofloose texture, similar to the BrionnB(see).

Breaune See Brionne.

Breech In English or crossbred wool thelower part of the fleece grown on thelegs.

Breluche Coarse and stout Frenchtwilled suiting, made in solid solors,with linen warp and woolen filling;obsolete.

Brenne Lightweight woolen cloth, oftenwith silk stripes; formerly made in

France.

Bresilienne Corded French silk dressgoods and vesting; also an all-wool,twilled fabric made in France in the19th century.

Bretagne Sort of bleached linen, madein B.

Bretanas Variety of plain woven fabricsof pure linen, or mixed with cotton;used in Latin America, imported fromEngland.

Breton Embroidery In silver, gold andcolored silk thread over cloth, silkor mesh; to be used as borders.Flowers, geometrical designs andBreton patterns are the motifs, out-lined and then filled out, usuallychain and satin stitches being used.

Bretonne A fine net, similar to Brussels,but having larger mesh; used for laceground.

Bribe English term for a piece ofcloth containing flaws and cut awayfrom the length.

Brick Stitch Used as background in an-tique embroideries; sort of couching(see), the effect being similar to abrick wall.

Bridal Lace Drawnwork in the 16th and17th centuries, worn at weddings. Thedesigns represented coats of arms ofthe families.

Bride In needle-point laces the threadsconnecting the various parts of thepattern.

Bride Epingle A needle-made meshground for real lace, each side cov-ered with buttonhole stitches- To befound on early samples of Argentanpoint.

Bride Ornee Bride (see) covered withbuttonhole stitches and ornamentedwith picots, etc.

Bride Picotee In point laces a hexagonalbuttonholed net, each side orna-mented with a couple of picots orpearls (see).

Bridgewater Light English broadclothmade in the 16th century.

Brighton^Not reversible diamond pat-terns; used on dress and other fab-rics; the diamonds are alternatelysmall and large. It is a honeycombweave made in straight draft, thethreads in a repeat being divisibleby four.

Brighton Embroidery iHas geometricalpatterns upon coarse canvas founda-tion.

Brighton Nap Said to be another namefor Russels (see) in the 16th century;made with nubs on the face.

Brilliants Lightweight cotton dress fab-ric or shirtwaisting, made with fine

warp and a heavier, slack twist fillingwhich forms little, geometrical fig-ures with floats on a plain wovenground. The fabric is often mercer-ized.

Brilliantine Lightweight, twilled dressgoods, woven with cotton warp andluster worsted or mohair filling, dyedin the yarn in the same or variouscolors. The filling covers the face.The patterns are usually formed byfloats.

Brin 1, French for a single warp or fill-

ing; 2, various grades of coarse, stoutlinen, made in France for the Ameri-can trade; 3, 'fine, sheer and plainwoven linen fabric; used for liningfans.

Brins The two single filaments of puresilk, encased in natural gum, thusforming the silk -fiber as produced bythe silk worm. The two brins areproduced by two glands in the worm.

Brioche A fancy, now obsolete, knitting;used for sofa cushions and waist-coats.

Brionne Bleached, sheer, French linen ofvarious grades; used for curtains.

Britannias 'Stout linen cloth, bleached orin gray, made in in Germany for thWest Indian markets-

BRI 26 BRO

Britch The lowest grade of wool in afleece, taken from the thighs andspins 26s to 28s.

British In the trade gray cotton hose.

British Raised Work Short ends of

heavy wool yarn are fastened by themiddle to a coarse canvas foundationand then brushed out, resembling a

pile.

Broach East Indian raw cotton, having a

moderately strong and fairly clean

staple of golden color.

Broad Couching Similar to the brickstitch, only the laid threads areslightly drawn together.

Broad Rash Heavy coating, made of

worsted warp and woolen filling in

the 18th century in England.Broad Silk Wide silk dress goods and

linings.

Broad White Eighteenth century tradename for camblets.

Broadcloth Fine all- woolen or worstedwarp dress cloth or coating of stout

texture; the fabric is fulled andnapped, shorn and pressed on the face,which has a velvety feel and a little

gloss. The back is twilled.

Brocade 1, originally a rich and heavysilk fabric, with flowers, foliage, fig-

ures, etc., woven in gold or silver core

yarn. It was of Oriental origin; usedfor state and church vestments; 2,

silk fabric having usually large floweror other pattern design woven in acolor different from the foundation,each filling thread usually reachingfrom selvage to selvage. The pat-terns are usually of an embossedcharacter; 3, collective name for alarge class and variety of silk, wooland other dress fabrics, having pat-terns usually in a different color,

often of an embossed character. Sil-

ver or gold brocade is a fabric withsilver or gold tinsel figures on taffeta,satin or twill foundation.Brocaded satin has a foundation

made in satin weave, the pattern be-

ing woven in another weave or madein velvet. Brocaded velvet can beeither pile over pile (see) or velvet

patterns over a plain woven or otherfoundation. See also Lame, Swiveland Lappet.

Brocade Embroidery The designs tracedover the foundation are outlined oralso -filled in with stem stitch in vari-ous colored heavy wool or floss silk

yarn'Brocading Weaving process for intro-

ducing extra silk, gold or silver

threads into the cloth to form pat-terns.

Brocart or Brocat French for torocade.

Brocatelle 1, originally a heavy, cross-ribbed furniture and drapery fabric,similar to the brocade, having Jac-quard figures and usually made ofsilk warp and cotton filling, but alsoof all silk, all cotton, or all wool;2, modern dress goods and vesting,similar to the furniture drapery, butmade in lighter weights and often all

silk; 3, silk fabric having glossy, satin

figures on a less glossy taffeta groundof same color.

Brocatelle de Passementerie Stout drap-ery fabric, made of cotton warp andwool filling.

Brocatine Brocade with raised patterns.Broche 1, French term for swivel and

lappet figures; 2, also a large num-_>er of fabrics decorated with specialthreads, which are introduced, to-together with the regular warp orfilling threads, but which do not forma necessary part of the structure it-self. These threads are carried asfloats at the back of the fabric, orare clipped away and form coloreddesigns.

troche Carpets Wool carpets, made withfigures formed by cut pile over aBrussels ground.

Brodequin Embroidered hosiery.

Broderie 'French name for embroidery.Broderie en Lacet 'Braid stitched to

satin foundation, the patterns beingfilled in with stitches imitating lace.

Broderie de Malines Early name forMalines lace (see).

Broderie de Nancy^Drawn work, orna-mented with colored silk.

Brodie A tartan, consisting of equalwide black and green stripes, bothways; these are broken up in themiddle by a narrow red stripe (bothways and two still narrower stripes,one on each side of the red). Halfof the green stripes is taken up in

the middle by a blue stripe each way.Broella Coarse woolen fabric; used for

clothing by the English country peo-ple in the Middle Ages.

Broken Ends Warp threads which havebroken during the weaving or finish-

ing, showing as a defect In the cloth.

Broken Picks Weft threads broken inthe weaving and showing as a flaw.

Broken Twill iName for a large numberof modifications of the ordinary twill

weave, produced by missing certainthreads of the twill, the repeat takingan opposite direction. See also Her-ringbone.

Brokes Short staple taken from the neckand the belly parts of the fleece; termused in the woolen trade. It is thesame as skirting.

Bromsia Sort of Levant raw silk.

Brooks Improved An early maturingcommercial variety of cotton fromLouisiana, yielding about 31 per centof short staple.

Brown 1, an early maturing commercialvariety of -cotton from Mississippi,yielding a short staple; 2, wool-sort-ing term for about 30s quality, takenfrom the haunches of the fleece; is

lower grade than "neat."

Brown Egyptian 'Cotton, having a long,strong, clean and easily worked sta-

ple of golden brown color.

Brown Hemp Trade name for Sunnhemp.

Brown Holland Originally unbleached or

partly bleached plain woven linen, thelatter sized and used as furniturecover or summer clothing. It comesalso in dark gray and black.

BRO 27 BUF

Brown Matching Wool taken from the

flanks of the English crossbred fleece;

spins 28s.

Brown Osnaburgs Coarse, unbleachedlinen, made in Ireland and Scotlandof strong hemp or linen yarn for theAmerican trade.

Brown Silesia Unbleached stout Silesia

linen.

Bruce Tartan with bright red ground, the

plaid formed by groups of four (twowider in the middle and two narrowerat the sides) stripes in dark green,which are together as wide as the red

squares. In the mfddl; of the re-d

squares alternated narrow yellow andwhite stripes run each way.

Bruges Obsolete Belgian and French sat-in, made with siik warp and hardtwist cotton filling.

Bruges Lace 1, fine Belgian bobbin lacesimilar to the Valenciennes, havingornamental bold patterns and bridesornees (see) ; is called also pointduchesse. It has a circular meshground, the threads being twistedthree times; 2, guipure de Brugesconsists of various sprigs joined withbrides.

Bruir Process of fixing dyes on cloths bypassing damp throug'h the texture.

Brunswick Twilled fabric, similar to

cassimere, made of wool and cotton.

Brush Binding A braid with a stiff fringealong one edge, used to bind the bot-tom of skirts.

Brush Length Trade term for narrowhaircloth.

Brushed Loosely knitted material, madeof several different colored, loose twistyarns, the long nap of which arebrushed after knitting, producing col-or mixtures. Used for caps, jackets,etc.

Brushing A finishing profess, consists in

raising the nap with circular brushes-

Brussa 'Loosely woven half silk veilingof varying weave, made in B., Asia.

Brussels 18th century woolen fabric inEngland.

Brussels Carpet 1, the body Brussels is

made of worsted with warp loop pile;it is spoken of as six -frame, five-

frame, etc., according to the numberof threads in the thickness of the car-pet. Each thread forms loops andthen is carried in the body of thecarpet. There are two picks to eachwire. Usually all the threads in eachframe are of one color, and there areas many frames as colors. The rangeof colors is limited; 2, tapestryBrussels is similar to body Brusselsbut only one warp is used which is

printed in the pattern before weaving.

Brussels Edge 'Used as finish or needle-point laces.

Brussels Ground Hexagonal mesh netground for lace, made of four threads.

Brussels Lace Bobbin or point lace. 1,

the bobbin lace has hexagonalground, two sides being of fourthreads plaited four times and foursides of two threads twisted. Theoutlines of the flowers and the veinsof the leaves are of raised plaitedcordonnet- The ground was workedaround the flowers, the brides andtoile are very elaborate; 2, in needle-point lace, the hexagonal ground is

made in strips of one inch width andthen joined with the raccroc stitch.The cordonnet is not buttonholed;3. Modern B. lace is composed of

sprigs appliqued to machine madeground.

Brussels Quilling Plain cotton net withan extra twist around the mesh; usedfor frills, etc.

Buaze Strong, fine and durable bastfiber, yielded by the twigs of a spe-cies of securidacea in Zambesi; usedfor fishing net by the natives.

Buchanan Tartan; even sided plaid withthe following stripes in a repeat bothways; red, narrow blue, yellow(split in the middle by a narrow blue),narrow blue, narrow green, narrowblue, narrow green and narrow blue.The wide red stripes are split in thecenter by a narrow white stripe.

Buoioche Sort of common woolen clothmade in France for the Egypt trade.

Buckinghamshire Lace Bobbin lace withplaited ground similar to that of Lilleor Valence. It is made in one piece,usually in narrow widths, used asbaby lace. Characteristic is thetrolly (see).

Buckle Stitch In bob-bin laces the stemsand fibers of the sprigs are oftenformed of a braid made in b. s.

Buckram 1, originated from Bokhara as acostly material, called also Bokeram.In the 16th century a rich Englishwoolen fabric, used for church vest-ments; 2, plain woven or twilledcoarse, open fabric, dyed in the piece,and heavily sized if used for hatshapes. It is made of coarse hemp orcotton yarn, hair, etc. Also used forunder lining and stiffener for clothes,in this case not sized.

Buckskin A thick, stout and very dura-able woolen fabric woven in an eight-leaf satin weave with a warp face.It is napped, fulled thoroughly andshorn, the face being finished verysmooth. Used for overcoats, ridingbreeches, etc. Summer buckskin is

made of hard spun worsted yarn of-ten mixed with silk.

Buckskin Weave An eight-leaf warpsatin weave, each warp crossing oversix picks and carried under two picks.

Buffalo Cloth Heavy twilled woolenovercoating with a long nap.

Buffalo Wool Very fine wool, growingamong the coarse hair on the buffalo.

Used for fine felt hats, shawls, etc.

Little available.

BUF 28 BUR

Buffinei A coarse English woolen fabricin the 16th and 17th centuries usedfor clothing. (See Buffyn.)

Buffline 'Trousering of linen and cot-

ton.

Buffyn Sort of English camlet of the17th century, also called catalowne.(See Buffiner.)

Bugazeen Obsolete for calico.

Bugis 'Fine, plain woven cotton fabric

used for scarfs in East India. It hasa checked or striped border only alongone selvage.

Buke Muslin See Book Muslin.

Bulac A Philippine species of cotton;used for cordage.

Bulbul 'Fine cotton muslin made in

India.

Bulgarian Embroidery .Made in variousbright colored silks, cottons and goldor silver thread over a coarse, un-dressed black or white muslin, it is

alike on both sides.

Bull Muck In England imperfect tops.

Bull's Wool Trade term for very coarseand low grade woolens.

Bullion Originally gold or silver lace,

also thick gold wire braid for uni-forms.

Bullion Embroidery Of antique origin,used now chiefly on church vestmentsand for heraldry. The gold or silver

thread is laid down over the patternand sewn to it.

Bullion Fringe Made of gold or silver

threads, used on uniforms.

Bullion Knot Round spots made 'by lay-ing down the metal or silk thread in

small flat coils, used for ground in

embroideries.

Bullion Lace Made of gold or silver

thread.

Bulobulo A coarse Philippine fiber; usedfor cordage.

Bun Ochra Fine, white and strong bastfiber of the Caesar weed in India;used for twine and bags.

Bunch Contains 130,000 yards of linen

yarn.BundleLinen yarn measure, equal to

60,000 yards, weighing 10 pounds.

Bundle Handkerchief Of linen and also

cotton, made in England with plaidpatterns in dark blue color.

Bunraj See Arree-

Bunt Lace Obsolete Scotch bobbin lace,

originated about the middle of the18th century, usually made of coarsethread in lozenge patterns.

Buntal Fibei Is obtained from the stalksof the unopened leaves of the Bunpalm in the Philippines; it is a verylight fibber, used for hat braids.

Buntine Same as Bunting (see).

Bunting 1, an all-worsted English fabricof the 18th century; 2, a narrow fabricmade of long staple, coarse English'Wool in an open and plain weave, hav-ing two-ply warp and single filling;used for flags and dresses, also madepartly or entirely of cotton.

Burail Plain woven light weight Frenchdress fabric, similar to ferrandine(see) the warp being of floret or othersilk and the filling of cotton, wool,etc.; obsolete.

Burano Lace Made on the island ofBurano near Venice, originally it waspoint lace of the finest quality withnet ground; at the present thechoicest specimens of Alencon, Brus-sels, Argentan and other laces arealso made there.

Burat or Buratee 'Light and plain wovenFrench dress goods, dyed in the piece;made of floret silk and worsted yarn.It i sstronger than etamine; used formourning, also ecclesiastical vest-ments, judges' robes; obsolete.

Burat a Grosgrain Same construction asburat, made with weft ribs.

Bu ratine Persian raw silk.

Buratte 1, fabric of southern Italy, withwarp of Bologna silk, filling tram silk;

2, stiff, transparent linen; ueed in

Italy for drawnwork.

Burberry 1, lightweight mercerized andwaterproofed cotton fabric, withfine warp ribs: used for raincoats;2, fancy, twilled woolen cheviot suit-

ing.

Burda Arabic name for black andwhite warp striped fabrics; used for

garments in North Africa.

Burdalisander Medieval silk fabric in

various colored stripes, believed to

originate from northern Africa. SeeAlexander.

Burden Stitch Used in embroideries to

reproduce flesh. The silk threads arelaid down evenly and are caught ineven distances.

'Sure or Bureau 1. a heavy and coarse,plain woven or twilled French dresjfabric and suiting, .finished with adense nap on the face. It is madewith cotton or hemp warp and wool-en filling; 2, a light very open,French woolen dress goods.

Burel Coarse, brown colored Englishwoolen fabric; used for clothing, etc.,

by the poorer classes in the 13thand 14th centuries.

Burgos A calico, dyed blue and printedin fancy colors; made originally inEast India.

Buri Raffia A finer and weaker fiberthan raffia, obtained from the un-opened leaves of the Buri palm in thePhilippines; used for coarse bagging.

Buring Crane >An all-worsted Englishfabric of the 18th century.

Burity 'Fine and lustrous leaf fiber, ob-tained from the Muriti palm ofBrazil; used for cordage, hats,baskets.

Burlap Plain woven, heavy coarse cloth,made of jute, usually 40 inches widein Scotland, made of single yarn in

plain weave; the limit of the weightis between 6 and 14 oz. per yard.

BUR CAB

Burling "Process of removing all knots,

burrs, slubs, etc., from the cloth In

order to improve its appearance.

Burnet A fine woolen fabric of brown orblack color; used for dresses in the13th century in England-

Burnetising Impregnating canvas or

cordage with the solution of chlorideof zinc to prevent dry rot; used in

nautics.

Burning Test for detecting wool, cot-

ton or silk h'bers. Wool and silk wall

burn slowly with an unpleasant odor,

leaving black ashes behind. Cottonburns with a flame depositing whiteashes.

Burnley Printers Plain woven, bleachedcotton oloth, made un England in

pieces measuring 116 yards in length,32 inches in width, with 64 ends and64 picks in a square inch; used for

prints. Also called B. lumps.

Burr 1, the seeds of weeds entangled in

the wool; 2, knotty silk waste.

Burrah A plain woven, heavy coloredcotton fabric in East Africa, usedfor garments by the natives. It is

either dark blue or made in narrowblue and black stripes with borderstripes in other colors and a centerstripe in red or yellow. There arealso headings at both ends of thepiece.

Burring Process of removing the burrsfrom the fleece, by means of hooks.

Burrom Sannah East Indian cottoncloth.

Burry Wool, the fibers of which are en-tangled with burrs.

Burry Blanket A plain woven andslightly napped blanket.

Burrys An interior, coarse and heavywoolen fabric in England.

Bush A commercial variety of cottonfrom Louisiana; See Ben Smith-

Bushireh Inferior coarse carpet woolfrom Persia. See Bussorah.

Bussin Wool fabric made in Norwich,England, in the 18th century.

Bussorah Inferior carpet wool fromMesopotamia, has an irregular fleece.

Bustian (Medieval worsted fabric, usedfor dresses, made with three treadles.

Butcher's Linen Heavy, stout bleachedlinen, used as backing for shirtbosoms; a plain woven, soft butcoarse muslin, used for aprons, etc.;comes in the gray or bleached.

Buts In the Bible denotes fine linen.

Butter Cloth Similar to cheesecloth(see).

Butternut Obsolete American heavywoolen homespun trousering, dyedbrown with extracts from the butter-nut tree.

Button Lumps of fibers collected on thewarp during weaving.

Buttonhole Stitch A very importantstitch consisting of a short and longstitch in needle-point laces; also

called point none and close stitch.

Buttonhole Twist Thick, loose cottonthread, made of 24 strands; used to

strengthen the edges of buttonholes.

Buz 1, plain woven gray cotton fabricmade in Central Asia; used for shirts

and drawers, made 11 inches wide;2, in the Bible means byssus (see).

Byssine A fine cloth in medieval Eng-land; its construction is unknown.

Byssus 1, old Greek name for fine sheerlinen fabric of white or yellowishcolor, woven in Egy.pt; 2, long andsilky hair-like beard of some sea

mussels; used for gloves and stock-

ings in southern Italy-

Byzance Stitch In canvas embroideryproducing a close zig-zag pattern.

Byzantine Carpet Similar to Brussels

carpet with the addition of metalthreads at intervals.

Byzantine Embroidery Applique em-broidery, heavy worsted or floss silk

yarn being laid and sewn on to leath-er or other thick ground, often orna-mented with pieces of cloth.

Caaporopy Fine, flax-like fiber, yieldedby a species of the Urtica family in

Paraguay; used by the natives for

ropes, etc.

Cab or Cabbage Tailor's clippings in

England.Caballeros Spanish raw merino wool;

used in large quantities in France.

Cabeca A very fine grade of East In-

dian sil'k.

Cabesa Raw wool from Estramadura,Spain.

Cable 1, the heaviest ropes, over 10 inch-es in circumference, made usually of

hemp, the yarn, strand and hawser(usually three in number), being giT-en alternately a right hand and left

hand twist before made into cables;

2, a variety of corduroy, having broadraces.

Cable Net Is made of heavy cotton yarnwith large mesh; used in England for

draping and curtains.

Cable Thread iSewing thread, composedof three ply threads, which aretwisted together against the originaltwist.

Cable Webbing Twilled webbing, wovenwith heavy round thread.

Cable- Laid Rope 'Formed by three ropesof three-strand yarn, twisted into

one, alternately to the right and left

hand.

CAB 30 CAL

Cablet Trade term for cables measuringless than 10 inches in circumference.

Cabling Name in England for the pro-cess of doubling cotton strands andtwisting them alternately to right andleft hand direction in making cottonthread.

Cabo Negro A dark, straight, smoothand glossy fiber, similar to horsehair,yielded by the leaves of a palm in

the Philippines; used for ship cord-age.

Oabot General term for coarse gray orbleached, heavily sized cotton sheet-ing in the Balkan States and AsiaticTurkey.

Cabuja or Cabulla Central Americanand West Indian name for the Mauri-tius hemp (see).

Cabuya Hemp growing in Colombia,Peru and Central America. Yieldsvery strong fiber for ropes, bags, etc.

Caceres Spanish raw wool of mediumquality.

Cacharado A plain woven linen fabricfrom Spain.

Cachemire French for cashmere.Cachemire Shawl The finest French

make is made with woven coloredfigures on a foundation of fine cache-mire wool and organzine Tvarp andvery fine and close Cachemire filling.Genuine cashemire shawl is made inone color, and then embroidered.

Cachemirette Originally from England; atrousering and coating, made of cot-ton or silk warp and woolen filling;

occasionally it is fulled. It is wov-en in twill and given a clear face,while the back is napped.'

i Inferior medieval silk fabric.

Caddis 1, worsted lace and ribbon; 2,

stout and very durable twilled wool-en fabric of various colors, used bythe French clergy.

Cadene Coarse and durable rug made in

Asia Minor. Has a long pile and is

sewn together of narrow strips.

Cadet Cloth (Bluish gray, strong, fulledand shorn woolen fabric; used foruniforms in military schools.

Cadicee An obsolete twilled woolencloth.

Cadilla L,ight brown colored, very long,lustrous, strong bast fiber, yielded bythe Urena plant in South America;used for bags, ropes.

Cadillon French twilled woolen cloth.

Cadis 1, all-wool, lightweight Frenchserge, made about 22 inches wide, ob-solete; 2, very fine all-wool Frenchcloth, slightly fulled; obsolete. 3,

coarse twilled worsted fabric; used bythe Scotch Highlanders.

Cadis Soubeirams Obsolete, fine Frenchserge; used for lining.

Cadiz Stitch In needle-point laces, con-sists of successive rows of buttonholestitches.

Caen A grade of French serge made ofwool.

Cafe con Leche In Paraguay whiteponchos with brown stripes.

Caffa 1, a 16th century English silk fab-ric, the patterns of which were eitherwoven or printed with hand blocks;2, an East Indian fancy calico.

Caffard 1, satin made in various col-ored stripes, the warp being of silkand the filling of silk or wool; ob-solete; 2, French suiting, made ofall-wool or wool and linen; used bythe country people.

Cage Work Same as open work.

Caiana^Sort of raw cotton from Brazil.

Cajantes Stout French camlet, made ofpure worsted or worsted and silk;obsolete.

Cajun Strong leaf fiber yielded by theFurcraea cubensis in Central Amer-ica; similar to sisal.

Caked 'Flaw in the fabric, consisting ofhardened portions of size.

Calabria Italian cotton, having a mediumlong, fairly strong but irregularstaple of dull white color; containsmuch leaf.

Caladaris East Indian calico made withblack or red stripes.

Calamacho Italian silk satin.

Calamanco See Calimanco.

Calamatta Italian raw silk in the gum.Calamenque Name in Holland for cal-

mande (see).

Calanca East Indian calico.

Calcutta Hemp Trade term for jute.

Caldera Bush Yields tough, white, glos-sy leaf fibers; used for rapes, nets,etc., in India.

Calendering A finishing process, pro-ducing smooth and glossy surface bypassing the fabric between heatedsteel rollers; used on a great varietyof cotton, linen, wool and other fab-rics.

Calico 1, plain and closely woven, thinlightweight printed, cotton cloth;used for dresses, aprons, etc. Theearly calicoes had linen yarn andcotton filling; 2, in England a plainwoven, bleached cotton fabric heavierthan muslin. 3, up to the end of the18th century every kind of cottongoods was called calico.

California Fancy English alpaca fabricin the 19th century.

California Blanket Originally of SanFrancisco, made of fine wool, with along soft nap.

Calimanco or Calmanco or CallimancoIn the 19th century a plain or stripedstout worsted in England made in

imitation of the camel hair cloth withsingle warp and finished with a highluster; used for petticoats and chairseats. See also Calmande.

Callamancoe 1, stout twilled cotton fab-ric from Yorkshire; 2, See Calimanco.

CAL 31 CAM

Calloose Hemp A very strong stem fiber,

yielded by the Urtica plant in

Sumatra; used for cordage.

Calmande Of French and Dutch origin,

made from 20 to 44 inches wide; used

for men's clothes, skirts, dresses, etc.

It was usually made of all-wool, the

warp occasionally mixed with silk or

goat's hair, especially for the figured

C. The C. was made mostly in satin

weave, but also in ribbed effect with

a high gloss on the face; many weremade of natural colored wool, but

also dyed or striped. It was madesingle or double faced. See also

Calimanco.

Calmuc or Kalmuk 1, wool yielded by theCalmuc sheep in Central Asia; 2,

loose woven, twilled woolen made ofloose twist yarn, fulled and finishedwith a long nap, used as winter dressgoods.

Calquiei East Indian silk taffeta madewith double-and-twist or printedyarn.

Calum Kouree An East Indian chintz.

Camayeux 1, effect produced by the pat-tern, and the ground of a design be-ing different shades of the same color;2, silk cloth of colored warp and blackfilling, the latter alternately shot in

single and double.

Cambayes -Strong East Indian cottonfabric of coarse structure, finished to

resemble linen.

Camblet 18th and 19th century Englishand French, plain woven or twilled

fabric, made with single or doublewarp of wool mixed with silk or

goat's hair- It was woven in the

gray and dyed in the piece; used for

cloaks. Originally came from the

Orient, where it was made of Angorahair. 'Compare with Camlet.

Camblettee A 19th century pure worstedfabric in England.

Camboulas 'Southern French fabric,made of ply cotton warp and woolenfilling.

Cambrai 1, see Cambric; 2, a machine-made lace.

Cambre Very light, 'sheer, veiling-likelinen in Italy.

Cambreaine French term for plain wov-en very fine cottons and sheer linens,similar to the cambric; originallyimported from various parts of Asia.

Cambric 1, same as batiste (eee); 2, alight, plain woven, sized and wellglazed fabric of inferior grade, madeof cotton or linen yarns in white, ordyed in the piece and used for lining

Cambric Muslin Fine cotton fabric,bleached and glazed, used for under-wear.

Camel Hair 1, used for dress goods,shawls, carpets, hosiery, tweeds, etc.

Gray is the cheapest, white and blackthe most expensive and red of me-dium price; 2, a fine, soft and warmdress goods, with a high glossy finish,

woven of long staple wool and hav-

ing loose hair on the face.

Cameleon French for changeable in

three colors.

Cameline 1, a coarse medieval fabric,made of camel hair in twill weave,similar to the cashmere; 2, woolendress goods in fine basket weave andfinished with a soft nap.

Camelot Coarse fustian used for work-ing clothes in England.

Camelot Baracane 'French term forbaracan (see) made with the warpheavier than the weft.

Camelotee 18th century French fabrics ofsmooth finish made with pebbled orgranulated effect, produced by thecolored filling.

Camelotine Now obsolete name of vari-ous camlets made of hard twist wors-ted yarn.

Camera Coarse, loosely woven Frenchlinen, unbleached or dyed yellow.

Camera Work Photographs attached to alinen ground and surrounded with em-broidered flowers and scrolls.

Camerick 16th century name in Englandfor cambric.

Cameron of Erracht Highland tartan,made as follows: Wide dark green bar,split with a group of four narrow redstripes in the center (the outer stripesbeing wider than the inner ones), ablack stripe (about one-third of thegreen), a very narrow red stripe, adark blue bar, as wide as the green,split by a pair of the wider redstripes with a yellow stripe between(the three not touching), a very nar-row red stripe, a wide black stripe.

Cameron of Lochiel^A Highland tartanwith a red ground, the stripes ar-ranged as follows: Narrow white,edged with narrower blue on bothsides, the large, even sided red squareis traversed both warp and weft wiseby two wide stripes, narrow whitestripes, edged with narrower blue oneach side. The next large red squareis uneven sided, traversed by the twoblue stripes continued from the evensided square and these are crossedby two narrower green stripes.

Camientries Wool fabric made in Nor-wich, England, in the 17th century.

Camlet 1, heavyweight, waterproof cam-el's hair cloth, originated in Asia;later made mixed with angora wool;2, imitations of hard twist woolen orworsted yarn with the admixture ofsilk or goat's hair. Compare withCamblet.

CAM 32 CAN

Camletee or Camletto A 19th centuryEnglish worsted, made narrower andthinner than the Camblet or Camlet.See Canrbletee.

Camleteen Imitation camlet, made of all-

worsted.

Cammaka or Camoca or Camak Finemedieval fabric, believed to be of cam-el's hair and silk; used for churchvestments and bed hanging.

Camocato Chinese damask satin.

Camogi Long and fairly strong vege-table fiber from Southeast Africa;used as substitute for hemp.

Camona Peruvian palm, yields leaf

fibers; used by the native Indians.

Camoyard Twilled French fabric, madeof goats' hair.

Campane or Campaigne 1, narrow Frenchbobbin lace of the 18th century, madeof flax or silk with scalloped edge; 2,

gold, silver or silk fringe with bell-

shaped small tassels; used as dresstrimming.

Campatillas Woolen dress goods in theSpanish trade.

Campbell of Argyll A Highland tartan,made with wide green bars and twiceas wide blue bars. The green barsare alternately split with a yellow andwhite stripe. The blue .bars are out-lined on both sides with a wide andtwo very narrow stripes (on the in-

side) of black-

Campbell of Breadalbane A Highlandtartan, arranged as follows: Largechecks are formed by two wide blackstripes and a twice as wide blue barbetween (the latter split in the centerby a narrow black stripe). Betweenthese groups are two solid green bars(as wide as the blue) with a narrowerblack stripe between. The wide green.bars are split with a narrow yellowline in the center.

Campbell of Cawdor An even sided High-land tartan, made as follows: A wideblack stripe, wide dark blue stripe,narrow red stripe (edged with blacklines), wide blue stripe, wide blackstripe, wide green stripe, narrow paleblue stripe with black lines on eachedge, wide green stripes.

Campbell of Loudon Even sided High-land tartan composed as follows: Verywide dark blue bar with a black stripeon each side and two narrow blacklines in the middle, wide green bar,the same width as the pure blue bar,the green bars are alternately splitwith a narrow white or yellow stripe,edged with a black line.

Campbell of Strachur A Highland tartan,composed of wide green and narrowerblack stripes, and crossed by yellowlines.

Campbell Twill An irregular, eight-thread twill. See Mayo.

Campes A French twilled woolen fabric.

Campos A grade of Spanish clothingwool.

Canabassette Obsolete French fabric,made with silk stripes or without anysilk.

Canadaris Chinese and East Indian puresilk or cotton mixed satin, made withfancy stripes or window plaids.

Canadas 'French woolen blankets.

Canadian Embroidery 'Made by the na-tives of C. by using finely split anddyed porcupine quills as embroiderymaterial or cutting leather or skinsinto very small pieces and sewingthem together into shapes of trees,animals, etc., with hair.

Canadian Patchwork Made of variouscolored ribbons into a succession of

squares, something like a "log cabin."

Canapina Strong and silky fiber of

Argentine, yielded by the abutilonplant; used for cordage.

Canapone Weak and poor fiber, yieldedby the female seeding hemp in Italy-

Cancanias East Indian, warp striped silk

satins.

Candagang Bast Indian fifoer, yielded bythe Hibiscus eriocarpus.

Candied Flaw in weighted cloth causedby the crystallization of the fillingchemical on the face of the fabric.

Canebrake Cotton grown on the south-ern central prairie of Alabama, thestaple is strong, measuring about1 1-16 inches.

Cangan Narrow and inferior cotton fab-ric, made in China and used for cloth-ing by the poorer classes.

Cangette Coarse all-wool, lightweightFrench serge; used'for clothing, dress-es, etc.; formerly made at Caen, nowobsolete.

Cannamazos 'Spanish term for variousgrades of unbleached linens.

Cannele^l, silk fabric, made with twosets of warps, one single and the otherply yarn. The single warp forms thefoundation, the ply yarn floating overeight fillings, forming ribs. It is alsomade double faced by dividing the

heavy warps and letting them float

alternately both over the face and theback; 2, fabrics woven with several

picks in the same shed, forming shortribs which appear alternately on theface and the back, imitating the

joints of the bamboo.

Cannequin 'East Indian bleached cottoncloth.

Cannette 1, French make single chappeyarn; 2, a fine wide cotton fabric,made with warp cords; used in the

Philippines for dresses.

Cannetille 1, lace or military braidmade of gold or silver thread. SeeBullion; 2, French dress goods andfurniture drapery, havin.? warp ribs,made with two sets of warps and eightleaves and eight fillings in a repeat.

Canons -Wide lace ruffles worn in the18th century around the legs of boots-

Canon's Cloth 'Medieval English worsted,a piece made five yards long and 63

inches wide.

CAN 33 CAR

Canotier French term for dress goods;used for yachting and boating cos-tumes.

Canourge French woolen serge.

Canques Cotton shirting in China.

Cant In nautics, the strand of the rope.

Cantai Inferior East Indian cotton mus-lin.

Cantaloon See Cantiloon.

Canterbury English fancy dress goods ofsilk warp and cotton filling.

Cantille -See Bullion.

Cantiloon or Cantaloon An 18th centurypure worsted, made in England; usedfor women's wear.

Canton Crepe A crepe made with fine

silk or cotton warp and heavier fill-

ing, forming light cross ribs, is high-ly finished; it is made of Canton silk

and Is heavier than crepe de chine.

Canton Finish A firm feel and dull finishwithout any boardiness, given in Eng-land to cotton fabric by means of

mangling.Canton Flannel Twilled, medium or

heavy weight soft cotton fabric, witha long nap raised on one or bothsides, after which the fabric is dyed.It is made of low grade stock andslack twist yarn; used for underwear,house dresses, and overcoat pockets.

Canton Silk iRaw silk reeled in 14-16deniers in Southern China from verysmall cocoons, the fiber is very lightand weak but regular. Graded in twoclasses, both for tram.

Cantoon A very stout, compact cottonfabric having fine diagonal wales onthe face and napped in the back. It is

woven in a 3-and-3 diagonal twill,

having great many picks in an inch;used for riding breeches, etc.

Canvas A plain woven cotton or linenfabric, made in various grades; usedfor sails, tents, garments, etc. Thefinest grade is called mosaic, irres-

pective of the material.In England the Royal Navy canvas,

which is used for sails, has eight dif-ferent grades; it is one-third strong-er than the next grade, the MerchantNavy canvas. The yarns for theRoyal Navy canvas are made withoutchlorine, are twice boiled with ashes.It is made without stripes. There arefrom 776 to 1,300 warp ends and from15% to 27 picks (per inch).The Merchant Navy canvas in Eng-

land is used for awnings by the Ad-miralty. It is 24 inches wide, hassingle stripes and comes in sevengrades from 1,364 to 1,420 warp endsand from 14% to 24 picks (in an inch).The United States Government

Navy canvas is made of pure flax, 20inches wide and 40 yards long. Nos.1 to 5 are made in various weightswith double warp and two-ply twistedfilling. Nos. 7 and 8, the lightest aremade of single yarns. They all havea blue stripe near to the selvage.

Canvas Cloth In England a plain wovencotton, made of hard spun yarn.

Capah Damask A rich, purple coloredsilk damask mentioned in the times of

Henry VIII.

Capanaki Coarse cotton pillow lace, madein Smyrna.

Cape Wools From South Africa; the

staple is fine, silky but short anddirty; used for woolens.

Capiton <A coarse grade of waste silk in

France.

Capmeal Coarse woolen fabric of the18th century, made in England

Capot French men's wear for sailors

clothes, waterproof coats, etc-; madevery strong with napped and fulledface. Similar cloth made of shoddy in

England.

Cappadlne 'Silk waste yielded by the in-

ner side of the cocoon.

Caragach Fine cotton yarn, made in AsiaMinor.

Caraguata Very long, soft, silky leaffi'ber of good strength, yielded by theBromelia plant in South America;used for ropes.

Caraua >Fine glossy fiber, yielded by aspecies of the Bromelia in Brazil; usedfor ropes.

Caravonica Tree-cotton, prcduced by thecrossing of a long staple Mexican cot-ton with a coarse long staple Peru-vian growing in India, Mexico, etc.

Will grow in hot climate with not toomuch rain. There are two varieties:

1, wool caravonica, adapted for mix-ing wiith wool and 2, silk earavonica,which has long, lustrous strong fiber.

Carbonization Chemical process for re-

covering wool from mixed rags bytreating them with diluted sulphuricacid which destroys all vegetable.fibers and leaves the wool behind.

Carcami Silk waste in Italy.

Carcanes An East Indian cotton cloth.

Carcassonnes Light woolen dress goods,made in C., France.

Carda Inferior silk fabric of the 13th

century, believed to have been usedfor lining.

Cardigan In knitted fabric a stitch whichis used to shape underwear or Is

employed in knitting jackets.

Cardillat Sort of French melton.

Cardinal Cloth Red woolen cloth; usedby high church functionaries-

CardingPreliminary process in the spin-ning of wool or cotton yarn; thefibers are disentangled and thoroughlymixed.

Carding Wool or Clothing Wool Hasshort staple measuring up to fourinches, therefore shorter than comb-ins or worsted wools but has agreater felting property. They areused for woolens (see) although theycan be also combed into French yarn.

Cardis Twilled woolen cloth, fulled andcalendered; now obsolete.

Cardouzille Obsolete; light weight, all-wool twilled French dress goods.

* -*<"

CAR 34 CAS

Carelles Obsolete black trousering, madeof camels' hair.

Cargaison A medium weight French lin-

en.

Carisol Thin, open canvas, made for em-broidery foundation in France. Alsocalled Creseau.

Carlett Wool fabric made in Norwich,England, in the 18th century.

Carlowne -17th century English worsted.

Carmeline Medium grade of the vicunawool; used in France.

Carmelite French all-wool, light, plainwoven dress goods, made of naturalwool and fulled; similar to bunting;used for clothing by the Carmelitemonks.

Carnauba Leaf fiber yielded by thecarnauba palm in Brazil; used for

ropes, cordage, hats, baskets.

Garnet -A French bleached linen.

Carnestolendas iSilky seed hair yieldedby a tree in Venezuela.

Carnival Lace A 16th century reticella,similar to the bridal lace in makeand worn at festive occasions.

Caroa A fiber growing wild in the inter-ior of Brazil and said to be muchstronger than Manila hemp. It is lit-

tle known as yet-

Carocolillo 'Cotton yarn dyed red with thecarocol shell in the West Indies.

Carole Obsolete, twilled woolen trouser-ing, made in fancy colors with two-ply, hard twist warp and single filling.

Carolina Pride A commercial variety ofearly maturing cotton from SouthCarolina, the staple measuring 23-26millimeters and forming clusteredbolls; the yield is about 31 per cent.Also called Early Carolina.

Carol inas Cheap ginghams in Colombia.Caroline 1, plain French serge dress

goods, made with eight leaves andeight picks in a repeat; 2, bleachedlinen of medium grade, made inSilesia.

Caroline Plaid An early 19th centuryEnglish dress goods, three-quarterswide, made with cotton warp andworsted filling in plaid design.

Caroset^-General term for various Frenchflannels twilled on both sides andthoroughly fulled. Also sort of melton,made in the Vendee.

Carpet Thick and strong floor covering,reversible or otherwise woven, knittedor felted, made of wool, cotton, hemp,etc. It is made in widths which aresewed together to cover the entirefloor.

Carpet Binding A tape to bind the edgesof floor coverings; comes in wool orcotton.

Carpet Thread Heavy three-ply sewingthread; used for joining carpets.

Carpettes 'Coarse French twilled baggingfor raw wool, made of tow, unbleachedand striped.

Carpmeals A stout and coarse Englishwoolen fabric; used for clothingin the northern parts of England.

Carradars East Indian gingham withmulti-colored narrow stripes.

Carranclanes Narrow ginghams in thePhilippines, coming mostly in checksand plaids.

Carreau French for check-

Carrelet Inferior, lightweight, Frenchwoolen; obsolete.

Carretine 'Changeable silk dress goodswith small check pattern; now obso-lete.

Carrickmacross Lace Irish lace. 1, thesprigs consist of fine lawn with but-tonholed edges, connected with eachother by 'brides picotees (see) makinga guipure. 2, the sprigs are bobbinmade and appliqued over a machine-made ground.

Carsey Old English for Kersey.

Carthagena West Indian cotton, grownfrom American seed; has a fairlystrong staple.

Cartisane Parchment; used for paddingthe cordonnet or the foundation of theipoint laces and also to pad raised em-broidery patterns.

Cartouche French gros de Tours, thewarp is made in repeated ombre, div-ided by stripes at equal distance. It

was often given a moire finish; obso-lete.

Casa East Indian cotton cloth.

Casban (Stout twilled cotton lining witha gloss finish.

Cascara Native Peruvian and Bolivianname for a cloth-like bast of thecouratari tree; used for blankets,clothing, ropes, etc.

Casement Cloth Plain or printed sheerfabric in white or cream color, madeof cotton, monair or wooi; uised in

England for the household and sum-mer dresses.

Cashghar Woolen fabric, made in Kash-mir.

Cashmere 1, very fine and soft woolyielded by the cashmere goat. Theundergrowth is one of the very finest

animal fibers known, called pashmina,while the longer hair is somewhatcoarser. It is used for the best gradesof Indian shawls, rugs and also dressgoods; 2, a closely woven, soft, fine

and light dress fabric, made withsingle cotton or wool warp and fine

Botany filling in a 2-1 weft face twill-

The color eit'ect is usually mixture;3, soft, loosely woven twilled cottondress fabric, printed to imitate themixed woolen. 4, knit goods, made of

slack twist Saxony or other fine wors-ted yarn.

Cashmere Atlas All-wool, highly finishedweft satin dress goods, the filling is

finer and of slacker twist than the

warp.

CAS 35 CAU

Cashmere Shawl One of the finest tex-tiles known, made by the natives ofKashmir and Thibet on hand looms of

pashmina wool (see). Some of themare embroidered, showing the patternalike on both sides, others are onlydyed in one or more colors. TheFrench cashmere shawl is woven on.jacquard loom in multi-colored de-signs, which show only on one side.The shawls made at the present inKashmir are inferior in color and de-sign. The warp is two-ply while thefilling is single yarn. The latter is

wound around small sticks used asa shuttle.

Cashmere Twill A closely woven 2-1weft twill weave.

Cashmere Wool 'See Cashmere 1.

Cashmerette 1, a twilled, soft and lus-trous cotton fabric, often lightlynapped, made to imitate cashmere; 2,

fancy woolen for waistcoats; obsolete.3, twilled dress goods of spun silk

warp and woolen filling.

Casimii An all-wool, twilled summerdress goods, made in narrow, diagonaltwill without any fulling, usually ofworsted warp and woolen filling. Alsoan obsolete stout twilled French cot-ton cloth.

Casinetes Cheap cotton trouserings inBolivia, Peru, etc.

Casket Cloth .Light, black fabric, madeof wool and cotton; used for coveringcaskets-

Cassas or Cossaes East Indian fine andsoft cotton muslin made of veryslack twist yarn.

Cassimere 1, variety of plain woven ortwilled woolen or worsted fabrics, inchecks, stripes, etc., soft finished butnot napped; used for men's wear; 2,twilled woolen or cotton dress goods,made with two sets of warps in vari-ous colors and given a soft finish.

Cassimere Twill An even sided, fourharness twill weave, each thread pass-ing alternately over and under twothreads.

Cassimerette Cheaper grade of cassi-mere.

Cassinett 'Fancy English alpaca fa'bric inthe 19th century.

Cassi net English twilled stout trouseringand waistcoating in various colors,made of fine cotton warp and woolenyarn dyed in the wool. It is slightlyfulled and calendered. The doublecassinet is made with alternate wool-en and cotton yarn filling. Three-quarters of the wool filling is thrownon the face and three-quarters of thecotton filling is on the back of thecloth.

Cast A rough, coarse, bad-bred fleece ofwool.

Castagnettes Obsolete; double facedFrench serge, made of wool, silk andlinen yarns.

Castalogne Fine woolen blanket made inFrance and Spain.

Castel Branco A good Portuguese car-pet wool.

Castellamare 'Sort of raw cotton fromItaly.

Castilla 'Coarse homespun or importedwoolen, having a long nap; used forshawls and cloaks by the natives ofPeru.

Castinette Obsolete; French etaminedress goods, made with a warp com-posed of one strand of hard twistworsted, usually of dark brown colorand several silk strands of a lightershade- The filling was a two-strandsilk yarn of dark color, usually brown.

Castor 'Heavy, stout, fulled and calen-dered broadcloth overcoating.

Castorine Obsolete; term for astrakhancloth with a short pile; used for win-ter coating.

Castravane Raw silk from Asia Minor;used for braids.

Castuli (Philippine fiber; used for cord-age.

Catablattion Purple colored silk fabric ofthe Middle Ages.

Catacaos A variety of the tree cottonfrom Peru.

Catalapha A silk fabric mentioned in a17th century English manuscript.

Catalowne Same as Buffyn (see), madewith double and twist yarn and a dif-ferent colored filling.

Catasfittulum A medieval fabric of un-known structure.

Catawba A late maturing commercialvariety of cotton from South Caro-lina, the staple measuring 22-25 milli-meters, the yield being 35-36 per cent.

Cate Caatjes 'East Indian cotton cloth.

Catechu, Cutch A dyestuff derived fromthe leaves and wood of various acaciatrees in India and marketed as a darkcolored paste. Gives a fast, richbrown color.

Catena White bast fiber, yielded by aspecies of the heliocarpus tree inMexico.

Caterpillar Point Rich Italian needle-point lace of the 17th century, theraterpillar-like patterns are outlinedwith raised cordonnet and connectedwith brides picotees.

Catgut An open, plain woven linen fab-ric, made of hardspun yarn and sized;used for embroidery.

Cathay East Indian striped satin-

Catherine Wheel An ornament in em-broidery to fill up round holes.

Catifah Obsolete; name for Arabian vel-vets.

Cattivella Italian silk dress goods, madeof fine floret silk.

Cattle Hair Cloth Commercial name fora stout twilled fa'bric, containing woolwaste and some calf hair, heavy napis raised by gigging; used for carriagerobes.

Caul Gold net; used in the Middle Agesas part of the headdress.

Caul Work Obsolete: term for netting.

CAU 36 CHA

Caungeantries 'English changeable fab-ric, made of worsted and silk in the16th century.

Caustic Soda Used for bleaching and inindigo printing and especially mer-cerizing cotton. Its solution com-pletely disintegrates wool when atboiling temperature but concentratedcaustic soda is used to give scroopand luster to wool.

Cavalleys 'Fine dyed cotton fabric, im-ported to England from CentralAmerica in the 18th century.

Cayenne 1, sort of raw silk from Guy-ana: 2, lightweight, loosely woven,unbleached French linen.

Ceara 'Mexican and Brazilian raw cotton,having a fairly clean, medium strong,good, cohesive staple of dull whitecolor.

Ceba (Fine and silky cotton, grown inMexico on the ceba tree.

Cebu Hemp Trade term for a certaingrade of Manila hemp (see).

Cefiros 1, liht cotton cambric in Colom-biav often made with white or bluewarp and white filling; 2, cottonzephyr in Venezuela.

Ceiba 'Yellowish, silky seed hair, grownon the Bomibax tree in South America;used for stuffing.

Celestine 'A woolen fabric, made in Eng-land under Edward VI., said to havebeen of light blue color, and madewith wide selvage.

Cellular Cloth Term ,for various openfaibrics irrespective of weave or mate-rial. In England an open cotton leno;used for underwear.

Celtic A term used in Scotland to denotethe hopsack weave, with a satin base.

Cendal or Sandal Obsolete; silk cloth ofChinese origan, made thin in plainweave; used for lining, flags, etc.Also a rich silk fabric of the MiddleAges.

Cendati A medieval silk fabric made inItaly.

Center Fiber In bobbin laces the mainvein of the leaves.

Cere Cloth A cloth treated with wax;used for wrapping dead bodies inEngland; obsolete. Also called cere-ment.

Ceylon A fulled shirting, made of cottonwarp and wool and cotton mixtureyarn filling, containing little cotton.

Cha Very light and thin Chinese silkcloth, made in plain weave but usu-ally printed with very closely placedfloral patterns; used for summer gar-ments by the natives.

Chabnam Obsolete; very thin East In-dian cotton muslin.

Chacart East Indian calico, printed withbright; multi-colored checks.

Chadar or Chadder 1, plain woven cottonfabric; used for garments in Arabia.It has a very wide blue or black warpstripe on one side with two narrowwhite weft stripes appearing fourtimes at intervals at the ends. The"width is about 40 indhes and thelength 100 inches; 2, East Indianshawl, made of wool or goat's hair,having woven figures on a solidground; 3, trade name in East Africafor half bleached cotton fabrics, im-ported from India; used for loin cloth.

Chadder Ulaya 'Native name in East Af-rica for half bleached, bordered cot-ton fabrics imported from England;used for loin cloth.

Chafe Marks In silk goods displacementof the fibers caused when the cloth iswet.

Chafed A flaw in the cloth, caused bycthajfing the yarns.

Chaferconne 'Fine East Indian linenfabric, printed in colors (often withhand blocks) ; used for scarfs, muf-flers and handkerchiefs.

Chagrin 1, English book cloth, made ofcotton; 2. silk dress goods with peb-bled surface resembling leather. 3,

narrow rich braid, made of silk orgold thread.

Chaguar 'Strong leaf fiber, yielded by aspecies of the wild pineapple in Ar-gentine; used by the natives forcordage, hammocks, .bags and also forweaving a sort of cuirass.

Chain iSee Warp.

Chain Boulee Part of the macrame, madeby knitting two threads into a cord.

Chain Cotton Trade name for Braziliancotton.

Chain Stitch 'In embroidery and crochet-ing, similar to a chain.

Chain Twill A weave producing a twillsimilar to a chain.

'

Chain Twist Yarn first made two-ply towhich a third ply is added with areverse twist.

Chain Weave Piece dyed worsted fabric,finished without any nap, woven indouble corkscrew.

Chainette 1, French serge suiting, madewith eight leaves and three or fourpicks in a repeat. 2, obsolete; stouttwilled French silk vesting, 'made withsmall patterns. It was usually black.

Chakhi A warp faced fabric, made of silk

warp and cotton filling; used in

Egypt.

Chakmak A Turkish fabric, made of

silk, often with cotton filling, and in-terwoven with gold thread.

Chalinet See Challis.

Chalk Used in dyeing with sumach andTurkey red.

Chalk Stripes General term for narrowwhite stripes over a dark ground.

CHA 37 CHE

Challi or Challis A very light and soft,

plain woven dress goods in the 19th

century in Kngland, made of silk warpand worsted filling or of all wool, fin-

ished without any gloss. The figureswere either woven or usually printedover a white or pale colored ground.

Chalon All-wool, twilled light Englishsuiting and dress fabric, calenderedon the face, and usually made in

black, about one yard wide.

Chalys See Challis.

Chambers A commercial variety ot cot-

ton from South Carolina, the late ma-turing staple measuring 22-25 milli-

meters, the yield of lint being 32 percent.

Chambery Very light French dress goods,made with silk warp and goat hair

tilling.

Chamblette .Seventeenth century Englishpure or silk mixed worsteds, wateredor plain.

Chambord 'French mourning dress goods,made of all-wool. The warp some-times contains silk or is made of

cotton. It is woven with ribbed ef-

fect, often with alternating heavy andlight ribs.

Chambray Plain woven light dress goods,made of cotton or silk with a dankblue, brown, bladk, etc., warp and'white filling.

Chambray Gingham 'Fine cotton ging-ham, given a glossy finish; comesmostly in solid colors.

Champ Same as fond (see).

Champion Cluster A commercial varietyof late maturing American cotton, the

staple measuring 25-28 millimeters,the yield of lint being 30-31 per cent.

Chandar Unbleached, bleached, dyed or

printed cotton cloth, exported to India-

Chandul East Indian fiber, yielded by the

Lepuranda succidora; used for bag-ging.

Changeable Effect A color effect exten-sively applied in silk fabrics, producedusually by weaving the cloth of dif-

ferent colored, yarn dyed warp, andweft.

Changeant 1, all-wool, French camlot;obsolete; 2, see changeable.

Chantilly Lace Originally white linen,later black silk bobbin lace of fine

net ground, untwisted flat cordonnetand delicate flowers. The ground is

the socalled double ground.

Chappe or Schappe Silk 'Waste silk whichhas only a part of its material gumremoved by means of soaking it in

water or by fermentation.

Charara Long staple cotton grown in

Egypt.Chardonnet Silk An artificial silk named

after its inventor, made by dissolvingnitrated cellulose in ether.

Charkhana Checked muslin of cotton andsilk or pure cotton in India, four-plycolored threads, forming the checks.

Chartreuse A very light silk satin crepewith a pebbled effect on the back;the face is finished with a high lustre.

Charmoy Indian ribbed silk fabric.

Chasselas Cotton cloth in the West Afri-can coast trade.

Chassum >Silk waste, produced in reelingin India.

Chatoyant French for shot colors.

Chats Fulled French woolen, made withwhite warp and blue or black filLing;

obsolete.

Chattan A Highland tartan, worn by thechiefs of the clan Ch.; it is composedas follows: *narrow black and whiteline; wide dark green stripe; whiteline; yellow, red (split with blackline) and yellow stripes of equalwidth, these three together being aswide as the green; white line; graystripe, somewhat narrower thangreen; black stripe, being half thewidth of the gray; red stripe, sameas black *

; yellow stripe, same as

gray, split with a white line; re-

peat, in reversed order, group de-scribed between two *

; red bar, one-third in width of entire group.

Chaussettes White thread hosiery madein Vitre, France, by the peasants.

Chavonnis .Sheer East Indian cottonmuslin.

Chayong A corded silk velvet from'China.

Cheanyes Seventeenth century Englishworsted, made in Norwich; believedto have been watered.

Chebka Hand-made lace from Tunis,made with Moorish designs; used fordresses and furniture.

Check A pattern in weave, produced bytwo or more yarns of warp and filling

of the same color.

Checks il, medieval English worsted fab-rics; 2, blue and white or red andwhite checked fabrics, made as linen

checks, cotton checks and mixedchecks.

Check Canvas Open embroidery canvascontaining double and single threads,both in the warp and filling, whichproduce a plaid-like effect.

Check Mohair .Made of mohair withsmall checks in white ground; usedfor children's dresses in England.

Checked Muslin White muslins with col-ored cord stripes or checks and plaids;used for dresses, curtains, etc.

Checlatoun Rich medieval silk fabric;see Ciclatoun.

Cheese ClothA cheap, plain woven, veryloose, soft open faced, white or col-

ored, light cotton fabric, made of sin-

gle yarns and used for wrappingcheese, for underlining, curtains, flags,etc.

Chekeratus A 13th century checked fab-ric; used by the clergy.

Chelais Plain woven cotton fabric; usedfor loin cloths and scarfs in EastIndia; it is made with a checked orstriped border and a wide heading.

CHE CHI

Chelem A variety of sisal from Yucatan.

Chelos East Indian calico shirting, print-ed with fancy colored checks or plaids-

Chemical Fibei One which is not madeby nature, as the vegetable and ani-mal fibers are, but which are pro-duced artificially through chemicalprocess, like the artificial silk.

Chenille A cotton, wool or silk yarn,having a pile protruding all aroundat right angles; similar to a cater-

pillar; used as weft for fancy goods,curtains, and carpets; also for em-broidery and fringes. It is woven in

gauze weave with cotton or linen warpand silk, wool or cotton filling; thewarp threads are taped in groups andthe filling beaten in very closely.After weaving the fabric is cut be-tween the bunches of warps, and thelatter twisted, forming the chenille.

Chenille Axminster A cut pile carpet,made by binding printed chenillethread from side to side, to tlhe foun-dation.

Chenille CarpetOriginal name for thepatent Axminster (see).

Chenille Cloth -Made with cotton wool orsilk yarn warp and chenille filling;used for millinery.

Chenille Lace French needlepoint lace ofthe 18th century; it has a hexagonalsilk net ground with patterns out-lined with white chenille.

Chenille Shawl 'Made originally in Eng-land with chenille weft.

Chequer Stitch Used in bobbin lace

spri'gs as filling for berries and flow-ers.

Chequermolles Obsolete East Indian cot-ton cloth.

Cherolee East Indian striped cottons.

Cherconnee Indian silk and cotton taf-

feta; made with stripes and checks.

Cherquemolle 'Indian fabric made of bastfibers mixed with silk.

Cherry Commercial variety of early ma-turing cotton from South Carolina,the small bolls yielding 30-32 per centlint, the staple measuring 18-22 milli-meters.

Cheshire 'Plain woven bleached cottonfabrics, made in England, 36 incheswide, with 76 ends and 88 picks persquare inch; used for calicoes.

Chessboard Canvas Stout white embroid-ery canvas with alternate Checks,woven plain, and in honeycomb.

Cheverett 'Seventeenth century Englishworsted.

Chevillier Process to import luster to thesilk filament after dyeing by twistingand winding the filaments aroundthemselves under pressure-

Cheviot 1, Scotch wool, has a soft, fine

staple; used for cheviots; 2, origi-nally an all-wool, twilled and closelynapped fabric, made of cheviot yarncoarser than 56s. Now usually adul-terated with cotton and weighted withflocks.

Cheviot Britch Britch wool from thecheviot fleece.

Cheviot Shirting 'Stout, twilled cottonshirting made of coarse yarn; thepattern consists of small dobby de-signs or fancy warp stripes, formedby single warps and ribs by doublewarps. It comes usually in blue orbrown, while the filling is white.

Chevrette Hair obtained from the skinof the Angora kid by a liming pro-cess.

Chevron 1, same as Herringbone (see);2, French serge dress goods, madewith eig'ht leaves and four picks in arepeat.

Chichi Rugs All-wool rugs made in Cau-casia; the pile is of medium length,tied in Ghiordes knot. The colors aredark, blue is often used. The patternconsists of irregular and varied fig-ures in the field, of crosses, conven-tionalized flowers and geometricaldesigns. There is a wide border ofseveral stripes, iBoth ends are fin-

ished with a narrow knotted fringe.

Chiffon 1, general term for bleached cot-ton shirtings in Roumania; 2, a very-light, transparent fabric, made of silkin plain weave; it is very soft andpliable; 3, used in connection withother textile terms, as velvet, etc., todenote <pliancy; 4, in Germany andAustria a stout and fine, plain wovenlinen fabric, given a smooth finish;used for shirts and underwear.

Chiffon iNet In England a very fine gradeof black silk net; used for laces.

Chiffonized In England and France wooland si 14c velvets having a lustrous'pile, finished dull on the face.

Chijimi A narrow Japanese silk fabric ofsolid color; used for drapery.

Chikan 'Hand embroidered fine cottonmuslin in India.

Chikti Soft, strong, glossy 'fiber, similarto jute, yielded by the Triumfettarhomboidea in India.

Chikun Fibrous bast of the Indian nettle

tree, used for clothing by the nativetribes.

Chilima Very stnonig bast fiber, yieldedby the Bombax tree in Peru.

Chilkaht Blanket woven 'by the Ch. In-dians in Alaska of the hair of themountain goat. The colors are yellow,black, white, blue and red, usuallywith a black border around- Theblanket has a deep fringe at the bot-tom and narrow at the sides. Thedesigns usually consist of eyes andfaces.

Chilli A icoarse calico in the Africantrade, made in England.

Chimayo Woolen blankets woven in NewMexico and Mexico by the Indians.The design consists of straight crossstripes in blue, black, red and white;formerly woven in two pieces whichwere sewn together, now made in onepiece of two-ply yarn.

Chin Brocaded silk fabric made in China.

China Crepe 'See Crepe de Chine.

CHI 39 CHO

China Finish In England a very brightfinish given {0 cotton fabrics (mostlymade for export) by using a heavysizing of china clay and calendering.

China Grass See Ramie.

China Jute Bast fiber of the Indian mal-low.

China Mull Very soft, light, plain wovenfabric, made of cotton and silk.

China Ribbon A now obsolete very nar-row ribbon in solid or fancy colors;

used for book markers or to embroiderwith.

China Steam Filature Very brilliant,

strong and white and regular rawsilk, reeled in 13/15 deniers in north-ern China on modern machinery.Graded in 3 classes; Nos. 1 and 2 for

organzine; No. 3 for tram.

Chinchilla A heavy but spongy woolenovercoating or cloaking, made withone or two sets of warp and fromone to four sets of filling. It is madewith 'plain or fancy back. The faceis woven with long floats, formed byfine, slack twist thread, which is

teazled into a long nap and rubbedinto curly nubs in the finishing byspecial machinery.

Chine General term for various designsor colors printed in faint and indefi-

nite outlines on the warp before the

weaving of certain fabrics, as taf-

feta, gros de Tours, serges and satins.

In warp pile velvet the design printedon the warp is about six times the

length of the pattern seen in the

finished fabric, owingto the "take-in"

during the weaving.

Chinese Burr Triumfetta pilosa of

Queensland, Australia; yields a clean,

etrong, lustrous, soft and fairly resil-

ient fiber, similar to jute.

Chinese Jute White, lustrous, fairly

strong 'fiber, yielded by the Indianmallow.

Ching Ma Silky and strong fiber in

China, yielded by the abutilon plant;used for cordage.

Chintz 1, general term in Russia for all-

cotton cloths, printed in simple de-

signs, stripes, checks, flowers, etc.; 2,

cotton cloth of plain, sometimes da-mask or diaper weave, made withhard spun, fine warp, often taped anda much coarser, slack twist filling,

printed with flowers, birds, and other

patterns, in bright colors on white or

colored ground, and glazed by calen-

dering; used for furniture coyer anddrapery. Originally from India. Thefull chintz has a ground in twoshades of madder red, while the half

chintz is only printed on white or

cream ground.

Chintz Braid <Cotton braid, printed andfinished like chintz, used for dresstrimming.

Chintzing A process in weaving, bywhich the colors in the extra weftyarns are replaced with other onesin horizontal sections of the pattern.

Chioggia Lace Coarse, Italian bobbinlace, similar to the early Flanderslaces.

Chique Inferior French raw silk; usedfor threads.

Chiquechique Very strong, durable andlight fiber, yielded by the leaves of apalm in Venezuela; used for brooms,ropes, and cordage.

Chirimen Japanese lusterless silk crepe,the warp and filling consisting ofequally thick yarns; the filling yarnis twisted to the right and to theleft; the fabric is dyed in the piece.

Chisholm Even sided Highland tartan,made as follows: Wide bright redand narrower dark green bars alter-nating. The red bars are spdit witha pair of white lines in the middle.The green bars are edged with threeblue stripes ((wider on the outside,narrower inside), and are split witha red line in the middle.

Chitrak Turkish fabric, made with cot-ton warp and silk filling.

Chitrang Bast 'fiber, yielded by the Ster-culia Wightii in China; used for cord-

age.Chits Plain and close woven fine calico

from East India.

Chiverett Eighteenth certury woolenfabric in England; see Cheverett.

Chlidema Square Carpet made 27 incheswide, with an unmitered border.

Chloralum A 25 per cent solution of alu-minum chloride; used in carbonizingwool.

Chloride of Chrome Used as mordant foralizarine on silk and cotton.

Chlorinated Wool Which was treatedwith solution of hydrochloric acid;such wool is very harsh, does not felt,has a high gloss and a greater affinityfor dyes.

Chlorination A process consisting of

treating all-wool or union fabricsiwith an acid solution of bleachingpowder, which increases the strengthof the wool, gives it a luster andharsih feel; makes it unshrinkable andunfelting and increases its affinityfor dyes.

Chlorine iSee Bleaching Powder.

Choel 'Strong fi'ber, obtained from theyoung roots of the Butea gum tree in


Choice 1, merino clothing wool takenfrom the best part of the neck of afine fleece; 2, in the woolen trade thethird quality of wool, taken from themiddle of the sides.

Cholet 1, unbleached light French linen,finished without any dressing; 2,

fancy colored handkerchiefs; 3, light-weight linen with narrow blue andyellow or blue and red stripes.

Chom 'Native name in Yucatan for thestrong, silky leaf fiber of the wildpineapple.

Chongkwen Light silk taffeta, made in

China, about 27 inches wide; usedfor umbrellas.

CHO 40 CLO

Choquettes French term for cocoons ofdiseased silkworms.

Chop Brands of Chinese and Japaneseraw or reeled silks.

Choppat Bast Indian lightweight silk

taffeta.

Chosheb In the Bible textiles havingpatterns woven with gold on a varie-

gated ground.Chouca Strong leaf fiber, yielded by spe-

cies of the aloe in South America;used for cordage.

Chowtar East Indian cotton muslin.

Chrome Fluoride Used in mordantingwool-

Chrysoclavus Rich Byzantine fabric,made of white or purple silk, embroid-ered with large gold nail heads; wornby state dignitaries.

Chucumci Hard, rough sisal fiber fromYucatan.

Chuddah 'Solid colored wool shawl, madein India of pashmina in very fine twill

on hand looms.

Chuddei See Chadar.

Chumese East Indian trade name forsunn hemp (see).

Chuna South American sheep, descend-ant of the Spanish merino, yieldslong wool.

Cliuncu iBast fiber, yielded by the Cala-dium tree in Peru.

Chunri Piece dyed cotton fabric in In-dia, dyed as the bandanna handker-chiefs are.

Chuquelas 'Striped Indian taffetas, madeof silk and cotton.

Church Laces (Needle point laces of the17th century; used for ecclesiastical

purposes, originally with designs ofBiblical character.

Chusan Dress goods of cotton warp andworsted filling, with Jacquard pat-terns; obsolete.

Ciciclia (Silk or half-silk damask dressgoods 'figured with flowers over satinfoundation; made in Asia Minor.

Ciclatoun, Siglaton, or Cyclas -Medievalgolden fabrics in Europe; originatedfrom Persia.

Cinq Trous French lace made with afive sided mesh ground.

Cintas General term for ribbon in I^atin-America.

Ciporovica Bulgarian tufted rug, made ofnative wool on hand looms.

CircassianEnglish worsted fabric of the19th century.

Circassian Rugs All-wool rugs, made in

Asia Minor; the short and loose pileis tied in Ghiordes knot, both endsare 'finished with a narrow, knottedfringe; usually elementary colors arabeing used, white extensively.

Circassienne 'French twilled summerdress goods, similar to cashmere,made of pure wool or cotton warpand woolen filling, dyed in the wool-It was made in solid or mixed colors;now obsolete.

Citamci An inferior grade of sisal fiberfrom Yucatan.

Civil Coarse but strong bast fiber, yield-ed 'by a species of the Malvaceae inMexico.

Claires 'Fine, open batiste, made in

France.

Claith 'Scotch mill parlance for cloth.

Clandian 'Fine, lightweight woolen sum-mer dress goods, consisting of alter-nating stripes of a dark color inter-

changed with a number of lightercolored threads and stripes of mix-ture or mottled colors.

Clarines 'See Claires.

Classical The second best grade of rawsilk.

Classing Process of dividing the fleecesinto groups, according to their quali-ties.

Classiques French, stout, all-cotton

sheetings.

Clauthse Very soft, obsolete Frenchwoolen trousering and coating, madewith a comparatively very heavywarp; fulled in the finish; obsolete.

Clays Originally English worsted sergefor men's wear, made of slack twist

warp and filling, woven with six-har-ness twill, forming very flat diagonalsand finished with a soft 'but clearhandle.

Clear Finish Fabrics having the nap re-

moved from the face, .showing theweave.

Clergy Tartan A tartan formerly usedby the Scotch Highland clergy for

every day wear. It consisted of widedark blue and black bars of evenwidth. The -black bars were splitin the middle with a fine green stripe.The blue bars were alternately split

by a pair of fine green stripes orfive fine green stripes. The latter

arranged in pairs at the edge and onein the middle. All green stripes wereedged with a fine black line.

Ball of thread or yarn-Cle

Clinchamps 'Coarse French canvas of

hemp.

Clinquant Flat gold braid for militaryuniforms.

Clip One season's yield of wool.

Clippings Irregular small pieces of cloth,

the waste of the cutting room; usedfor patch work, quilts, or are re-

worked into shoddy.

Clisson Obsolete, medium fine, bleached,French linen shirting, made 28 and 42

inches wide.

Cloaking Large variety of woolen, wors-ted or silk fabrics used for cloaks or

coats; usually of heavier weight, as

chinchillas, sibeline, etc.

Clochepied Three-thread organzine for

gauze; made by twisting first twothreads together, then adding the

third thread.

CLO 41 coc

Clock Embroidery at the ankles of thehosiery, consisting of two lines meet-ing at an angle, one line going upthe leg, the other toward the toe.In French is called coin.

Close Leaf In bobbin-made sprigs leavesentirely filled out with cloth stitches.

Close Stitch In needle-point laces all

buttonhole stitches made without anyloops.

Cloth 1, general term for fulled woolenfabrics; 2, general term for any tex-tile fabric having some body; 3, me-dieval English worsted made six

yards long and two yards wide.

Cloth of Areste Medieval rich fabricwoven with gold figures; used forchurch vestments.

Cloth Blanket Made in plain weave andslightly napped.

Cloth of Bruges Gold brocaded silk fab-ric; used for church vestments in

England during the Middle Ages.Cloth of Cologne Medieval fabric made

at Cologne, Germany, with gold pat-terns over blue or other colored silkfoundation.

Cloth Embroidery In Asiatic countrieswork made of joining together vari-ous shaped and colored small piecesof cloth with the aid of fancy stitches.

Cloth of Gold Fa'brics mentioned in oldmanuscripts, made entirely of goldwire, narrow flat strips of gold, orimixed with other fibers, as silk.

Cloth Ingrain Medieval English worsted,worn by the rich.

Cloth of Pall Rich medieval silk fabricdyed in crimson; used for churchvestments-

Cloth of Raynes Fine medieval linen,originally from Brittany; used forshirts and bed linen.

Cloth Serge An 18th century Englishserge, made of worsted warp andwoolen filling.

Cloth Stitch In bobbin laces interlacingthe threads like the weaving of acloth.

Cloth of Tars A costly medieval fabric,believed to 'be of silk and cashmerewool; usually dyed purple.

Clothing Wool Of short fiber unfit tocomb and used in the manufacture ofwoolens. It possesses the property offelting readily. Also called cardingwool.

Clouding Process of producing largespots on silk fabrics in the dyeing.

Cloudy 1, defect in the cotton slivercaused by thick uncarded roughplaces; 2, defect in yarn, showing thinand thick places; 3, defect in thepiece dyed fabrics, showing uneven-ness in color.

Cloudy Yarn 1, fancy ply yarn, havingflakes held by the strands; 2, ply yarnwith irregular twist, made by alter-nately twisting the different coloredstrands around each other.

Clout Pieces and remnants of cloth, quitevalueless.

Clouties English linen cloth.

Clove English measure of wool, equal to7.7 pounds.

Club Check Small checks in quiet two-colored effects.

Cluny 1, originally a sort of darned net-ting with raised stitches; 2, at thepresent a bobbin guipure lace withgeometric patterns.

Cluny Guipure^Hand-made lace, the pat-terns being worked over square net-ting ground, similar to the darned netlaces.

Cluny Tapestry iStout, thick fabric madein England with woolen warp andsilk filling, forming warp cords; usedfor hangings.

Coarse Bobs In England same as cablenet.

Coarse Tow The entire fiber of flax, af-ter the shives have been removed.

Coat 'Piece of stout canvas tarred orpainted and nailed around the mastor pumps of the ship where they en-ter the deck-

Coating 'Heavy woolen, worsted, alsosilk fabrics of a great variety ofweaves and patterns; used for outer-garments.

Cobbler In England piece goods whichhave been returned because of unsat-isfactory make or dye.

Cobourg or Coburg An English fabric in-troduced after the marriage of QueenVictoria; made of closely placed silkor cotton warp and worsted filling,woven in a 2/1 cashmere twill weave;used for coat lining and dress goods.They come dyed in the piece orprinted.

Cobweb 1, name applied to very sheerhosiery; 2, a commercial variety oflate maturing cotton from 'Mississippi,the very fine and silky staple 'meas-uring 35-40 millimeters; the yield Is

'28-29 per cent.

Cochineal Crimson dye derived from thedried 'bodies of the coccus cacti, smallinsects in Central America, and mar-keted as fine grain. It is ground upin hot water and is still used formordant dyeing wool and silk.

Cochran A commercial variety of cottonfrom Georgia, the staple measuring35-40 millimeters; the yield is 32-33per cent.

Cockle 1, flaw in the fabric, showing aspuffs, blisters or crimpiness; causedin the .finishing or by unequal tensionof the yarn in the weaving; 2, flawin the cotton yarn, consisting of knots,caused by the mixing of short andlong staple.

Cocuiza A strong, smooth fiber, yieldedby the leaves of the Furcraea giganteain Venezuela; used for ropes, bags,etc.

Cocoa nada East Indian cotton, having ashort staple of dull brown color.

coc 42 CON

Cocoon An oval shell, consisting of rawsilk, spun by the silkworm around it-

self. The outer and inner layers canbe used only for floss or spun silk,while at>out 10 per cent of the weightcan be reeled off in a single filament,averaging about 300 yards in length.About Ii2 pounds of cocoons will yieldone pound of raw silk. If the chrysalisis permitted to pierce the cocoon andescape, the eilk can be used only for

spun silk.

Cocos Fibei Same as coir (see).

Codilla The scutching tow, a coarse by-product or waste of the flax and hemp.

Codrington Fancy English alpaca fabricin the 19th century.

Coeur Fleuri 'French ticking and linen,woven w.ith small geometrical figuresand bleached-

Coffin Cloth Made with cotton warp andwoolen filling in plain weave, dyedblack; used for lining coffins and forshrouds.

Cogware A coarse English woolen fab-ric of the 15-th century, made like afrieze.

Cohras Prints East Indian colored cot-

tons; the design is printed with wax,which throws off the coloring matterwhich the ground is dyed with. Thewax is later removed.

Coin 'French for clock (see).

Coir Reddish brown, strong, stiff andelastic fiber, yielded by the outer shell

of the unripe cocoanut; used for

mats, cordage, etc.

Colbertan Lace Coarse French lacenamed after Colbert, with ground of

square meshes.

Colchonetas 'Cotton quilts filled withtatting in Cuba.

Colias Coarse Philippine 'fiber; used for

cordage.

Collar Twine Trade term in Scotland andEngland for a coarser and cheapergrade of cable thread.

Collar Velvet Fine silk velvet of veryshort pile; used for collars.

Collette Unbleached canvas of mediumgrade.

Colombiana In the Philippine Islandsworsted piece dyed lastings.

Colombo Yarn Second grade of coiryarn; made in Ceylon; used for ropesand coarse fabrics.

Colonial Silk English trade term for arti-ficial silk-

Colorado River Hemp 'See Wild Hemp.

Colored Goods Trade term denoting all

sorts of printed and dyed fabrics asagainst white goods.

Colored Grays Gray mixture woolen fab-rics, having other colored yarns in-terwoven.

Colored TwillSolid colored, twilled cot-ton fabric; used for drapery.

Colquhoun A Highland tartan, consistingof the following: Black bar, dark bluebar, twice as wide, split by a pairof black lines in the center, blackbar, narrow white stripe, two darkgreen bars, each as wide as the black,separated by a red line; a narrowwhite stripe.

Colthorp Pride A commercial variety oflate maturing cotton from Louisiana;the staple measures 28-32 millimeters;the yield is 28-30 per cent.

Comaca 'Silky, yellowish seed hair of theBombax tree in British Guiana.

Comashes A fabric mentioned in 17thcentury English manuscripts, as im-ported from Turkey; structure andcomposition unknown.

Combed Yarn 1, cotton yarn made ofcombed, long staple cotton, hard orslack twist, and used for hosiery,underwear, sewing thread, laces, andfine cotton fabrics; 2, worsted yarn,made of top and used for worstedfabrics.

Combing Process by which the shortfibers (noil) are separated from thelong fibers and the latter are straight-ened out and laid parallel to eachother. Combing wool is at least 1%inches long, of good strength and usedfor worsteds.

Combourg Ordinaire Coarse Frenchlinen.

Comeback Wool Yielded by the sheepwhich is the crossing ot a half-brecfewe with a merino ram; this is ai

English trade term.

Comforter iSee Quilt.

Commercial Twins 'Made of cotton;used in stores to tie packages.

Commodore 'Stout English navy drill.

Common Twill An even sided four-har-ness twill weave, each thread passingover and under two threads alter-nately.

Company's Nankeen Very .fine, naturalbuff colored, broad, Chinese cottoncloth.

Composition ClothWaterproofed cottonor linen duck; used for bags, covers,etc.

Comptah East Indian cotton, having aweak staiple of dull brown color,usually containing large quantity ofbroken leaves-

Condeaux Stout, half bleached hempcanvas.

Conditioning Process to ascertain thepercentage of moisture present inthe textile fibers or fabrics.

Cone Large bobbins on which cotton andwoolen yarn is wound from the spin-dles for the use of knitting machines.It is cone shaped at one end.

Congo Red The first artificial dyestuffimade which would dye cotton di-

rectly.

Congress Canvas Strong, open face cot-ton or woolen canvas made of hardspun thread; used for embroidery.

CON 43 COR

Conkanee Hemp Trade name for sunnhemp.

Connaught Open cotton canvas for em-broidpry; see Basket Cloth.

Connaught Yarn Soft, fine, loose woolenyarn for knitting: made in Ireland.

Constitution A variety of corduroy, hav-ing broad races.

Con tallies Inferior French silk, made offloret silk.

Convent Plain woven woolen dress goodswith two or three-ply warp and sin-igle filling, made in solid colors andin stripes, mixtures, etc.

Convent Cloth A very light dress goods,made with wool warp and silk filling,having a pebbled face.

Convict Stripes Cotton fabrics made inEngland for the export trade; haveone inch wide filling tripes in blackover white ground.

Cook A commercial variety of late ma-turing cotton from Mississippi; thestaple measures 35-40 millimeters;the yield is 26-28 per cent.

Coothay East Indian satin made withcolored stripes.

Cop A conical shape into which cotton orworsted weft yarn is wound over apaper tube or a bare spindle, which iswithdrawn after the winding. Theyarn is crossing itself at sharp angles.

Copees East Indian gingham with fancycheck patterns.

Copou Very light Chinese muslin, madeof vegetable fibers; used for wearingapparel-

Copper Sulphate Used in after treatingdirect dyes; used also in catechu andaniline black dyeing.

Coptic Cloths Various linen, woolen andmixed fabrics, formerly used as mum-my wrappings and recovered from oldEgyptian tombs. The weave is plainor twilled, the latter often showingstriped and geometric designs.

Coquita Strong bark fiber, yielded r>ythe Jubaea spectabilis, a palm tree inChile; used for ropes.

Coquille In French hand ma,le lace? withshell like or fan shaped edges.

Corah 'East Indian light, washable silkdress goods of natural cream orwhite color.

Coral Stitch In embroidery a stitc.h hav-ing a stem from which short andparaaiel branches start out at anangle.

Coralline Point Italian needle-point lace,similar to the Venise point, havingcoral like trailing patterns.

Coram Bleached German linen, madevery stout of heavy warp and finerfilling.

Cord 1, in needle-point laces the raisedor padded part of the pattern, alsocalled Cordonnet. 2, corded dressgoods, like Ottoman, rep, faille, Bed-ford, etc. 3, or twine, made of cotton,jute, but mostly hemp of varioussizes measured by inches in diame-ter.

Cord Braid A soutache with a cord inthe middle.

Cord de Chine A lightweight fabric ofbotany warp and eilk filling; twowarp ends are in each reed, formingcords.

Cord Stitch In embroidery and needlelaces, a thread twisted around by an-other thread.

Cordaline Strong linen or silk thread atthe selvedge of -many silk fabrics.

Cordat 1, strong French canvas, madeof tow; 2, heavy, all-wool coarseFrench serge, thoroughly fulled.

Corde Closely woven heavy silk dressgoods, made in France, with narrowwarp ribs. The color was usuallyblack; norw obsolete.

Corded 'Fabrics having ribs runninglengthwise (produced by the warp)crosswise (produced by the weft) ordiagonally (produced by a twillweave).

Corded Dimity EngMsh dimity, made ofgoat's hair.

Cordelat 1, stout twilled woolen cloth,made around Aure, France. 2, coarse,long napped woolen dress goods fromLanguedoc, France. 3, light looselyTvoven woolen, finished like a flannel,from Beauvais, France.

Cordelat Molleton Heavy grades of cord-elats.

Cordelat Refins Cordelats, made of fineyarn.

Cordeliere Obsolete; smoothly finishedFrench serge, made in part of Span-ish merino wool.

Cordelia Lace, having patterns outlinedwith a heavy thread over a net foun-dation.

Corderette 18th century woolen fabricin England.

Cordettes French cloth made of hempfor headdress.

Cordetum A coarse fabric; used in me-dieval England.

Cordillat Heavy French iwoolen dressgoods, not felted; obsolete. See alsoCordelat.

Cordington A heavy boucle.

Cordon 'French term for cord, made ofvarious materials; used for trimming-

Cordoncillos Coarse, plain woven,bleached or unbleached cotton fab-ric; used for garments by the poorerclasses in Mexico.

Cordonnet 1, raised outer edge of thepoint lace in Alencon, made of horse-hair and completely covered withstitches; 2, crochet, knitting or em-broidery silk yarn, made of threethreads twisted together to the right,each thread composed from four toeight filaments twisted loosely to theleft.

Cordonnet en Laine Cord, made of woolor camel's hair; used for upholstery,etc

Cordonnet Silk See Cordonnet 2.

COR 44 COT

Cordonnet Yarn Heavy and usually two-ply cotton yarn, each strand number-ing below 10. It is made of combedstock, given a comparatively slacktwist and gassed once or twice.

Cordons Gold or silver braid.

Cordova Raw wool from Argentine.

Cordovan Embroidery Applique work bycutting out the patterns of oilcloth,

pasting it over coarse canvas of whichthe patterns are shaped out and thetwo are sewed to a foundation of

serge.

Cordurette^Plain woven woolen fabric,made with weft ribs.

Corduroy Cotton pile fabric, dyed in

the piece, the pile being formed of anextra set of slack twist filling, form-ing warp wise ribs; used for trous-ers, dresses, etc. 2, stockings knit-ted with two ribs alternating on theface and back.

Core YarnMade with a central thread,around which is wound a covering of

usually more expensive fibers, the corebeing concealed. The Urgoite coreyarn consists of a core of paperwrapped around with jute, flax, hemp,etc., also wool. The Leclercq-Dupireprocess is for the making of coreyarn with cotton core which measuresas much as 70 per cent of the totaland a worsted covering.

Cork Carpet Has a layer of ground corkpressed over a coarse and strong cot-ton or jute foundation.

Corkscrew 1, a weave composed of theregular twills of 40 degrees, the mini-mum number of harnesses being five

and the maximum 13; 2, a warpfaced fabric, woven in fancied re-semblance to a corkscrew; the best

grades have French yarn worstedwarp, while the filling can be of cot-ton or wool; used for men's wear andshoe tops; 3, flaw in doubled yarns,consisting of one yarn being looselycoiled around the other.

Corojo Long and strong leaf fiber, yield-ed by the corojo palm in Central andSouth America; used for ropes.

Coromandel 'Coarse English cotton fab-ric for the African trade.

Coronation Cloth 'Fulled mixture suitingin black, blue and red colors, broughtout at the coronation of Edward VII.and George II.

Corotte Coarse East Indian calico.

Corsery East Indian cotton cloth.

Corset Jean Very strong, stout jean,made of pure cotton or linen, in twill

or broken twill weave, in white, andfor corsets, etc.

Corset Lace A narrow cotton braid; usedto lace corsets with.

Corsicaine 'French silk dress goods, madewith printed warp. It has smallsquares placed on the bias over blackor colored ground.

Cortega A white, tough bast fiber in

Panama; used for cordage.

Corteza del Damajuhato 'A fibrous bast,yielded by the Couratari tree in

Brazil; used for clothing.

Cosmos 'Fibers recovered from flax orjute rags by tearing them up.

Cossa 'East Indian unprinted cottonfabric.

Cossack CordEnglish stout, bleachedwoolen, twilled and finely striped; ob-solete.

Cossai^-Coarse East Indian calico.

Cot "Matted or felted part of the fleece.

Cote French term for ribbed.

Cote Anglaise Faconnee Solid colorediFrench serge, made with eight leavesand eight picks in a repeat.

Cote de Cheval Cotton, wool or silk fab-ric, made with warp ribs, similar tothe Bedford cord.

Cote Menue French serge dress goods,made with 10 leaves and five picks ina repeat.

Cote Pali The warp is of fine linen, thefilling of hard twist silk, made verylight and sheer in fancy colored pat-terns finished with size; also made ofsilk warp and wool filling or cottonwarp and grege filling; obsolete.

Cote Piquee Solid colored French sergehaving eight leaves and eight picksin a repeat.

Cote Satinee (French serge of solid colors,made with eight leaves and eightpicks in a repeat.

Cote Syrienne Solid colored Frenchserge, having eight leaves and eightpicks in a repeat.

Cotelaine 'Bleached, corded muslin inFrance.

Cotele 'French for wide, flat ribs.

Coteline Warp ribbed dress goods, theheavy cotton ribs alternating withfour or six fine warp threads. Thefilling is often in two colors; used forsummer dresses. It is often printedin colors on white foundation; alsomade in silk.

Coti Americano Bed ticking in Chile,usually stiffened.

Cotillion Black and white striped woolendress fabric.

Coton Azul /Stiffened denim, made withblue warp and white filling in Chile.

Coton- Pierre Trade name for Braziliancotton.

Cotonine Stout and very strong cloth,made of cotton warp and hemp filling;used for household purposes, sails, etc.

Cotonis Fabric from India, made In

fancy patterns of silk warp and finecotton filling.

COT 45 cou

Cotton 1, fiber yielded by the seed podof the Gossypium shrub, grown in

sub-tropical countries, shewing about130 different varieties. The fiber is

either white or yellowish, in manycases turning into reddish brown, the

average length varying between 0.89

and 1.61 inches, the coarsest andshortest commercial varieties comingfrom India, the finest and longestfrom Sea Island and along the shoresor Georgia and Carolina. Under mi-crosco'pe the cotton fiber is similar to

a twisted ribbon and consists chieflyof cellulose. The main commercialvarieties are the Sea Island, Ameri-can (upland), Egyptian, Peruvian,Brazilian, West Indian, East Indian,Turkish and Chinese. The commercialfull grades of the American cottonsare: Fair, middling fair, good midd-ling, middling, low middling, good or-

dinary and ordinary; the half gradesare: Strict middling fair, strict

good middling, strict middling,strict low middling, strict goodordinary and strict ordinary; thequarter grades are: Barely fair,

fully middling fair, barely midd-ling fair, fully good middling, barelygood middling, fully middling, barelymiddling, fully low middling, barelylow middling, fully good ordinary,barely good ordinary. The grades of

the Indian cotton are: Fair, good fair,

good and fine, the Egyptian cotton

has three: Fair, good fair and good,;the South American cottons havethree: Middling fair, fair and goodfair. The grades for Sea Island cot-

ton are: Ordinary, common medium,good medium, medium, medium fine,

fine, extra fine.

The standard American bale meas-ures 54x27x27 inches and weighs 500

pounds. The bessonette bale is acylinder shape of 22 inches diameter,and 34 or 48 inches long, weighing 275

or 425 pounds. The average weightsof the other cotton bales are: Indian390 pounds, Egyptian 700 pouunds,Brazilian about 200 pounds, Levant(great divergence) about 300 pounds.Cotton burns freely. It is decom-

posed by concentrated nitric acid, butconcentrated sulphuric acid renders it

more elastic, resembling horsehair.Cotton is not or very little affected

by solution of sulphuric acid. Coldalkalies or their solutions have noeffect on cotton but hot solutions de-

stroy the fiber. Concentrated solutionof caustic soda causes mercerization

(see).

2, in Austria and Germany a cheap,plain woven cotton fabric made of

fine yarn, comes usually printed andused for shirts, etc.

Cotton Back iSilk fabrics, mostly satins,made with cotton back.

Cotton Bagging Very coarse and heavyjute bagging; used for baling cotton.

Cotton Blanket Cloth Very soft, napped,all-cotton cloth, made with two setsof warp and one filling, the face andthe back of the cloth being reverseof each other; used for bathrobes,blankets, etc.

Cotton Checks In England blue andwhite checked or striped, all-cottoncloth.

Cotton Ferrets Cheap bindings or un-sized tapes in England in gray orblack.

Cotton Thread See Sewing Cotton.

Cotton Velvet See Velveteen.

Cotton Warp Trade term for fabrics hav-ing a cotton warp and wool filling.

Cotton Weave^Same as plain weave.

Cotton Worsted Smooth finished twilledcloth, made of hard twist 'cotton yarnwoven and finished to imitate worstedcloth; used for cheap clothing, over-coats.

Cottonade Originally plain, also serge ortwill woven all-cotton fabrics madewith single yarns and heavy filling,made in solid colors, checks, stripes,plaids, etc., always dyed in the yarn;used for dress goods, table cloths, etc.,and the stronger grades for trousers.

Cottonette 1, knitted cotton fabric, cutand made up into bathing suits. 2,cotton fabric, containing one-thirdwool.

Cottonee Cotton back silk satin, made inTurkey.

Cotton ize See Fibrilize.

Cottonwood Yields soft, fibrous bark;used by the Western Indian tribes forropes, garments, etc.

Cotts 'Brittle and matter parts in thewool, caused by poor feed.

Couche See Velours Couche.

Couching >1, in embroidery heavy threadsare laid on the foundation and fastenedto it by another finer thread. It is

used especially in church embroidery.It is flat or raised; 2, a very thick,two-strand thread made of mercerizedcotton, wool or silk; used for embroid-ery and fancy work.

Count A number indicating the size orfineness of a yarn. 1, for cotton yarnit is the number of hanks (each meas-uring 840 yards) necessary to weighone pound; 2, for linen yarns one lea(300 yards) per pound is the unit; 3,

for woolen and worsted yarns 560yards per pound is the unit; thereare five different French systems forthe numbering of worsted yarns: Themetric system, measuring 496 yardsper pound; the new Roubaix, 354yards per pound; the old Roubaix, 708yards per pound; the Reims, 347yards per pound and the Fourmies,352 yards per pound; 4, for silk 840yards. The count of a cloth is ex-pressed by the number of warp andweft threads contained in a squareinch or other standard unit.

GOU 46 CRA

Coupling process In dyeing the applica-tion of an organic compound to a fab-ric which is dyed already, thus form-ing an insoluble color.

Couratari In South America a fibrousbast of the same tree; used for blank-ets, clothing, clothes, etc.

Courimari In Venezuela the fibrous bastof the Couratari tree; used for

blankets, clothes, etc.

Couronne Little loops on the outer edgeof the cordonnet (see).

Courtaille 'Coarse French hemp canvas.

Courte Pointe Bed quilts, made in

'France of pique or calico and stuffedwith cotton batting.

Courtrai 'French bobbin lace similar to the

Val, the threads of the mesh ground'being twisted three and a half times.

Coutance Strong, French ticking, made of

plain hemp.Couteline 1, coarse stout cotton ticking

of East Indies, striped blue andwhite; 2, French ticking made of flax

yarn with bright colored stripes.

Coutil 1, French and German stout drills,

made of linen, hemp or cotton; 2,

French and English fabrics, made of

pure cotton; used for bed covers,

drapery, trousers, etc., often printed;3, a fine worsted trousering in France;4, very strong, stout cotton or linen

fabric, woven in herringbone twill;

used for corsets.

Coutils de Brin Coarse French ticking.

Coutil Facon de Bruxelles (French coutil

(see), made with narrow stripes.

Coutil Jaspe Obsolete; French coutil

(see), made with two-ply linen warp,composed of two different colored

strands, and single linen yarn filling.

It was made 30 inches wide and usedfor sporting and working clothes.

Coutille 'French jean of zigzag patternfor corsets. See Coutil 4.

Coventry 'Bright blue worsted yarn madein England and 'used for embroidery;obsolete.

Coventry Cloths 17th century Englishworsteds.

Cover Appearance of fullness and dens-ity in the cloth, given by the nap.

Covert Cloth Twilled, closely woven mix-ture effect wool coating or dress fab-ric, having a warp face; the warp is

a double and twist yarn of a dark andlight colored strand, while the filling

is two-ply or single in the same darkshade. Woven mostly in five-leaf

warp satin weave and finished likecassimeres.

Covert Coat iSee Covert Cloth.

Cow Hair Is used for cheap carpets, etc.,mixed with wool.

Cow Tail In worsted sorting meanscoarse staple taken from the tail endof the low luster fleece; spins 26s to28s.

Cox Royal Arch Commercial variety ofearly maturing cotton from Georgia,the staple measuring 25-28 millimet-ers; the yield is 30-32 per cent.

CoxcombSee Bar.

Crabbing A finishing process, consistingof stretching the fabric by passing itover a steaming roller. The objectis to set the fabric at a certain width-

Crack A flaw in the fabric, consistingof an open space across the fabric.It is caused by the action of tne beat-er when a pick is missed.

Craiganputtach A Scotch tweed.Crammed Certain parts of a fabric are

said to be crammed when they con-tain more thread per unit space thanin another part of the cloth; usuallymade with several warps through onedent.

Cranky iBed ticking, made of linen andcotton with irregular patterns.

Cranston A highland tartan, composed ofdark blue and light blue stripes andred and blue lines.

Crapaud (French for mispick.Crapaudaille Fine silk crepon in France.Crape In the 18th century a woolen fab-

ric in England, made either crimpedfor deep mourning or smooth; 2, theextremely fine knitting on some of the'Shetland shawls. 3, see Crepe.

Crape Cloth Crinkled black woolen cloth,dyed black; used for mourning.

Craping Process of rendering a fabriccrimpy or crapy. The most importantprocesses are: 1, the filling is com-posed of right hand twist and lefthand twist yarns, interchanged atevery two or four picks; 2, certainwarp threads are wound on a separatebeam and held much slacker than therest of the ends, forming stripes ofcrepe; 3, cotton is treated with caus-tic soda, wool or silk with concen-trated sulphuric acid for a short timeat certain places, producing crepe el-feet; 4, warp and filling made ofdifferent fibers with different shrink-age; 5, combinations of these pro-cesses; 6, produced by causing thefabric to adhere at certain parts tostretched rubber bands which, whenreleased, will cause the crinkle. 7,produced by using yarns of variousdegree of twist.

Craquele Net Machine-made net with ir-

regular polygonal meshes, imitatingthe cracked effect of glazed ware.

Crash 1, plain or twilled igray, bleached orchecked cotton and jute cloth, sizedand calendered to resemble linen; usedfor towels, suits, etc.; 2, light, plainiwoven, coarse linen fabric, made ofuneven, slack twist yarn; used forsummer suits, towels. 3, coarse plainwoven light woolen fabric, made ofrough hard spun yarn. Dyed in thepiece or made in mixture effect.

Cravenette A waterproofing process forfabrics, made of cotton, wool or silk.

Crawford 1, a commercial variety ofearly ripening cotton from SouthCarolina, the staple measuring 23-27millimeters; the yield is 32-33 percent; 2, a highland tartan, composedof green stripes over a crimson redground and narrow white lines.

CRA CRE

Crazy Quilt Made by joining irregularpieces of cloth together with various

fancy stitches, without arranging the

pieces into any pattern.

Crea A more or less stiffened bleachedcotton cloth in Chile.

Crea Para Sabanas 'Bleached cotton

sheeting in South America.

Cream DamaskLinen damask, ma.de of

partly bleached yarn.

Creamed Linen Linen yarn partlybleached.

Creas Stout, bleached linen canvas,made of hard spun yarn; the piecesmade 30 metres long in Germany andAustria.

Creeks General trade name for variouscottons of light body, measuring from11-6 to 1% inches in length.

Crefeld Velvet Light German velvetmade of silk and cotton; used for

dresses, millinery, etc.

Crehuela Light osnaburg in Venezuela.

Crenele The edge of the dress or mate-rial, made like a battlement.

Creoulo Raw cotton, grown on trees in

iBrazil.

Crepaline Light weight silk or cottonfabric, made with a crepe border,produced either by slack warp threadsor chemical treatment; used for sum-mer dresses; name obsolete.

Crepe 1, cotton, wool or silk falbric, ofvarious weight, having a crinky sur-face, formed 'by using alternately righthand and left hand twist yarns, in thefilling. See also Craping. 2, namefor weaves producing .small grain ef-fects but without any twill design.

Crepe de Chine A very light and fine

fabric, made with si'lk warp and silkor hard spun worsted fiUinz, the lat-

ter being alternately two picks at

right and two picks of left twist; in

the finishing process the worsted, in

trying to regain its original positioncauses the fine crepe surface of thefa'bric; used for dresses, etc. Whenonly one kind of yarn is sh.t in sev-eral times in succession wavy crepe is

produced.

Crepe Crepe The warp has a larger num-ber of twists than in ordinary crepe,producing a very deep crepe effect.

Crepe de Dante Crepe, made of silk andwool warp and silk, lisle an3 woolweft.

Crepe d'Espagne Very light fabric, madewith silk warp and fine woal fillingwoven like gauze.

Crepe de Labor A cotton crepe washdress goods in France; obsolete.

Crepe de Laine French thin woolen dressgoods, made in plain weave andslightly creped.

Crepe Lisse Very light highly finishedcrepe, made in gauze weave, slightlystiffened, comes in pale colors; thewarp has fewer twists than in thecrepe crepe; used for dresses andtrimmings.

Crepe Meteor A highly finished silk

crepe.

Crepe Morette Light weight crinkledfabric, made of fine hard spun wors-ted warp, widely set and a heavierslack twist filling.

Crepe Rachel Fancy colored Frenchdress goods of cotton warp and wors-ted filling; obsolete.

Crepe de Sante Porous and close wovencrepe with a coarse face, made of un-dyed wool and silk; used for under-wear. Also made of cotton or linen.

Crepele French for craped.

Crepeline See Crepon.

Crepine 1, black or colored French silkdress goods with very small dottedpatterns; 2, a fringe.

Crepoline Light sheer fabrics of silk orcotton, woven to produce a rib-likecrepe effect warp wise.

Crepon^Dress fabric similar to crepe butstouter, made of cotton, \voo, silk ormixtures, the blistered effect is pro-duced either by different degree oftwist in the yarn, or by using rightand left hand twist yarns in the samefabric, or by having some of the warpthreads slacker than the others. Of-ten made with large Jacquard designsin black.

Crepon d'Alencon Obsolete; light weightFrench dress goods. The warp con-tained one strand of hard twist wors-ted and one or more strands of silk

yarn of a color different from theworsted. The filling was of slacktwist worsted in the same color asthe worsted strand of the warp.

Crepon d'Angleterre See Castinette.

Crepon Givre A twilled crepon (see) withfrosted effect.

Crescent In needle-point lace the usuallycrescent shaped part of the flower pat-tern surrounded by raised cordonnet.

Crescentin Cloth made of waste silk inFrance.

Creseau 1, see Carisol; 2, twilled Frenchwoolen, napped on both sides, similarto the kersey.

Crespine Silk net in the 16th century;used as covering for the hair.

Crespinette Silk hair net in France.

Crespolina .Cotton goods in South Amer-ican countries.

Crete A fancy braid, composed of twogroups of straight threads holding aheavy, trailing cord, forming picotedges.

Crete Lace Bobbin lace made of variouscolored slack twist silk or flax in

geometrical designs which are outlinedwith colored thread. Similar to Tor-chon.

Cretona 'Cotton oxford in Venezuela.

CRE 48 CRO

Cretonne 1, good quality, stout, bleachedFrench linen, named after its origina-tor; used for shirts; 2, a printedcotton fabric or stout texture. Theweave is either plain, or the warpthreads are taped in pairs, often theweave is in damask or diaper. It is

printed in bright floral or other de-signs visible mostly on the face butsometimes on both sides. It is not

glazed, this fact toeing the disting-

guishing mark from chintz; usedfor drapery and upholstery.

Creva 'Coarse drawn work, made in

Brazil.

Crevelle Pile faibric, made with two sets

of weft, one of cotton for the webthe other of silk, for the pile.

Crewel Loosely twisted, fine two-plyworsted yarn for embroidery.

Crewel Lace Narrow edging, made of

crewel yarn.

Crewel Stitch Same as stem stitch.

CricketingFine twilled flannel dressgoods; used in England for sportingcostumes.

Crimean Shirting A cotton shirting usedin India.

Crimp 1, the curliness of the wool fiber;

2, same as 'Crapy.

Crimping Fringe 'Craped silk fringe.

Crimps Plain woven cotton cloth, madein England for the export trade. Cer-tain warp threads, wound on a sepa-rate beam, are held slack, formingcrinkled warp stripes.

Crin 1, French term for horse hair; 2,

silk, heavier than cocoon silk, obtainedby killing the silk worm and empty-ing its glands containing the silk sub-stance.

Crin Vegetal French name for "vegetablehorsehair," a stiff, strong and durableleaf fiber yielded by the scrub palmet-to; used as substitute for animal hair,

stuffing, etc. See also Artificial Horse-hair.

Crinkle Effect obtained 1, on wool bytreating it with caustic soda; 2, onsilk by treating it with acids; 3, oncotton by treating it with acids. Seealso Craping.

Crinkle Fabrics 'Light or medium weightwash fabrics, made of cotton or mixedwith silk, having crink'.ed warp stripes,formed by warp threads which arestretched less than the ground warp.

Crinkling See Craping.

Crinolin Sheer fabric, made of cottonwarp and horsehair filling, heavilysized; used for hat forms, etc.

Crinoline Smooth, stiff and strong fab-ric, made with cotton warp and horse-hair filling in plain twill or satinweave; used for interlining or hatshapes; in imitation made also entire-

ly of hemp and finished with glue orvarnish, made mostly in black, also innatural gray.

Criolla 'Native South American sheepyielding coarse wool.

Crisp 1, fine English linen; 2, originalname for crepes in England.

Cristal Dress goods, made with fine silk

warp and wool filling which form al-ternate fine and heavy (often irregu-lar) ribs.

Cristaline Loosely woven silk dressgoods.

Crochet Work consisting of varioussmall stitches worked with a hookedneedle into laces and other articles,made of wool, silk, cotton, or gold andsilver and chenille yarn.

Crochet Cotton Loose cotton thread ofvarious count, made 'by doubling firstseveral strands the opposite directionthey were spun and then doublingthem again the same direction theywere spun.

Crochet Quilt Twilled, or Jacquard fig-ured, bleached cotton quilt, wovenwith one set of warp and one set offilling.

Crocodile Cloth An English woolen orworsted cloth, made like Bedford cord;used for dresses.

Crofting Scotch term for bleaching linenon the grass.

Croise 1, French term for twilled goods;2, commercial name for lightweighttwilled worsted men's coating, madewith cotton warp and worsted filling;also used for dresses.

Crompton Axminster Rug or carpet, hav-ing a tufted pile, made on power loom.

Cross Band Yarn with a left hand orwarp twist.

Cross Dyeing iSome of the yarn isdyed and afterward treated intannic acid and woven into thecloth with other undyed yarn.When the fabric is dyed in thepiece, the parts previously treatedwith tannic acid will resist the newdye.

Cross Over Fabric In England fabricswith weft stripes.

Cross Stitch Double stitch in embroiderytaking in two or more threads of thefoundation both in height and width,the two yarns crossing each other,forming the diagonals of a perfectsquare.

Cross Stripes 'Running weft wise.

Cross Weaving Where warp threads arecrossed with each other, as in thegauze or leno.

Crossbred 'Middle grade wool, taken fromsheep crossed with merino. The fiberis usually of good length, coarser thanmerino.

Crossing Warp Term for those warp endswhich are deflected in the gauzeweave and are wound around thestraight war.ps.

Crossland Another name for Peterkin(see).

Crow Weave An uneven sided, four harn-ess twill weave, the warp crossing overthree filling threads and depressed un-der one.

CRO 49 CUT

Crow Foot 1, flaw in the fabric, caused bydefective yarns. 2, the 3-1 twill weave.See Crow Weave.

Crown Lace English needlework of

Queen Elizabeth's reign, having royalcrowns in the design.

Crown Lining Sized tarlatan or lighterweight of crinoline; used for liningwomen's hats.

Croydon Plain woven stout and bleachedcotton sheeting in England, given astiff and glossy finish with the aid ofsize.

Crudillo CoronaUnbleached linen cloth,made in Spain and exported to thePhilippines.

Crudillo Gallo Linen cloth made in

Spain.Cruel Another name in the 17th century

for Caddis (see).

Crumb Cloth Coarse and heavy damaskin gray, made to be embroidered incolored yarns around the patterns.

Crusade ISth century woolen fabric in

England.

Crutchings .Wool which was removedsame time before the shearing, in ord-er to improve the growth of thefleece.

Crystal A very fine highly finished wool-en oif white color formerly made in

England for the export trade; usedfor nun's clothes; now cJbsolete.

Cuban Bast A fine, soft but strong cloth-like bast of the Hibiscus elatus in

Cuba; used for millinery braids, etc.

Cuban Hemp Strong smooth fiber, yield-ed by the leaves of the Furcraea cu-bensis of Central and South America.

Cubi Hopi Indian, name for the aromaticsumac; used for baskets, which canhold water.

Cubica Fine, thin English worsted serge,usually red; used for linings, suiting,etc. See also Plainback.

Cudbear A violet dyestuff, obtained froma stone moss; used on animal fibers.

Cuero de Diablo Stout cotton denim inColombia.

Cuir Laine French, wool winter dressgoods, similar to the ratine,, woven ina twill.

Cuirtain Fine twilled fabric, made ofwhite wool and used for clothing inmedieval Scotland.

Cultivated In East Indian and otherAsiatic countries silks, made of "culti-vated" silk worm as compared withthe "wild" silk.

Gumming A Highland tartan, composedof the following on a red ground: Anarrow dark green stripe, two widegreen bars and another narrow greenstripe, separated from each other byred stripes half the width of the nar-row green stripes. The wide greenbars are about four times as wide asthe green stripes and are split in theCenter by a single white line. Eachgroup of green stripes and bars is al-ternated with a wide red surface, splitwith a narrow black stripe.

Cunningham A Highland tartan, com-posed of wide black stripes and nar-row red, black and white lines overa red ground.

Curl Pile Long wool or silk pile having acurl, usually found in artificial fur.

Curl Yarn Usually a three-strand yarn;first a thin strand (well stretched)having curls and nubs, made by wind-ing slackly a thick thread around athinner one, which is well stretched,after which a third strand, also thin,is wound around the whole, holdingthe thick yarn, which forms the curls;made in cotton, wool or silk; used forratine, etc. See also Loop Yarn.

Curragh Lace iSee Irish Point.

Curratow .Strong leaf fi'ber, obtained froma species of the wild pineapple inBrazil.

Currelles English faibric, made of wors-ted and silk in the 16th century.

Curtain Serge Stout woolen serge; usedfor drapery.

Curtrike Fine medieval worsted fromFlanders.

Cushion A padded pillow of barrel orsome other shape; used as foundationin bobtxin lace making to which thepricked pattern is pinned.

Cushion Stitch Similar to cross stitch inBerlin work.

Cusir iSeiwing silk in France.Cussidah East Indian muslin.Cut 1, same as lea (see); 2, 300 yards

length of single woolen yarn; 3,standard length of the warp; forworsteds is 70 yards; 4, jute yarnmeasure, equal to 300 yards.

Cut Cashmere Twilled woolen dressgoods, having fine runs warp wise.often of a different color.

Cut Chinchilla (Showing colored warpstripes in the ground, formed by hardspun yarn.

Cut Goods Flat or knitted fabric, madein piece length and cut up for un-derwear.

Cut Pile 'Which is cut open after theloops were formed in the process ofweaving.

Cut Work Consists of partly filling withloops and stitches the various spacescut into linen. It is of ancient origin,evidently coming from Greece. CaJledalso Greek lace and reticella.

Cuts Trade term for short length of fab-rics, less than a bolt.

Cuttance (Fine heavy and stout silk satinof East India, with bright coloredwoven stripes and cotton back; usedfor upholstery.

Cutting Stout cotton cloth with flower ortrailing patterns.

Cutting Thread Which forms the furrowsdividing the rifes of corded fabrics. Itis interlaced in plain weave with allthe other threads and is stretched ifit runs warp ways. Often it is of adifferent color than the ribs.

Cuttle (Any desired length into which thefinished cloth is folded.

CUT 50 DAM

Cuttling The folding of the falbric after

finishing.

Cymatilis iA camlet made formerly in

Asiatic Turkey.

Cypress Cloth 'Fine black colored, plainwoven cotton lawn, finished with lit-

tle size; used for mourning; obsolete.

Cyprian Cloth (Silk and gold brocade,made in Cyprus in the (Middle Ages.

Cyprian Thread 'Made of a silk or linen

core twisted around with gilded cat-

gut; used for embroideries; obsolete.

Cyprus 'Fine silk gauze, originally fromCyprus; usually dyed black and usedas mourning veil. See Cypress Cloth.

Cyprus Crepe Light, sheer black crepeused for mourning during the Tudors.

Cyprus Gold A thread in the Middleages, having a flat gold strip woundaround a silk core.

Cyprus Lace Originally a gold and sil-

ver lace extensively copied by Italian

cities. There is also a sort of cutwork called C. lace and a more re-

cent coarse bobbin lace.

D

Dab Grass 'Yields very durable and fair-

ly strong fiber; used for ropes in In-dia.

Daba Coarse, plain woven, unbleachedcotton fabric, made in Kashgar, Cen-tral Asia.

Dabbakhis iStriped East Indian cottonmuslin.

Dabouis 'Narrow, bleached East Indiancotton cloth; used for calico.

Dacca Muslin 1, the finest among theIndian cotton muslins; woven on handlooms; 2, a striped or finely checkedEnglish cotton muslin.

Dacca Silk Embroidery silk.

Dacca Twist Fine English plain ortwilled calico; used for sheets, under-wear, etc.

Dacey Coarse wild silk, produced by anEast Indian silk worm from six to

eight times a year.

Dado \A usually two-colored, printedcotton; used for wall hangings in

Italy; usually has a cream iground.

Daghestan Rugs iMade in Caucasia, theweb and the short and close pile be-ing of wool, tied in Ghiordes knot; thedesign is almost always geometrical,mosaic patterns with many angularhooks being used in blue, red, yellowand ivory colors, without any shading.Both ends are finished with a narrowselvage and knotted fringe; the sidesare finished with a very narrow col-ored selvage.

Daglock Inferior and unclean wool lock.

Dags Parts of the fleece, consisting ofmatted fibers and dirt.

Daka Un'bieached cotton muslin, made in

Turkestan; the finer grades are usedfor turbans, the coarser for lining.

Dalecarlian Lace Very strong Swedishibobbin lace, made and worn by thepeasant as starched ruffles. It is of'buff color.

Dalmatian LaceCoarse, narrow bobbinlace, made in Dalmatia, Austria, bythe peasent women.

Dalzell A Highland tartan, composed of

green stripes over red ground, splitwith white narrow lines.

Damajagua or Majagua A fine, strongcloth-like bast, yielded by a species ofthe mellow in South America; usedlor baskets, clothing and ropes.

Damajuhato See Corteza del d.

Damaras East Indian taffeta with smallflower patterns. See also Armoisin.

Damas 'French for damask.

Damas Caffard Tapestry damask, madeof wool, silk waste, cotton, etc., andgiven a high finish on the face.

Damas Chine iFrench silk damask dressgoods, made with printed warp.

Damas en Dorure .French silk damaskwith gold flower designs.

Damas Francais French silk damask,made reversible or not, the pat-terns being formed by satin weaveon a gros de Tours foundation, eachin two colors; obsolete.

Damas Lisere Silk damask, the Jacquarddesign being outlined in gold.

Damascene Lace 'Made of sprigs andlace braid joined with corded barswithout any fillings. It is a modernadaptation of the Honiton pillow lace,

Damask 1, originally a rich silk fabricornamented with colored figures oftenin gold or silver; 2, an all-worstedtwilled faibric made in England in thel>8th century; 3, the true or doubleor reversible damask is woven boththe ground and the large floral Jac-quard patterns in eight-leaf satin andthe single damask in -five-leaf satinweave. Single damask is also madewith figures, not in satin but plainor twill weave. Usually made of cot-ton or linen and used on the table.

Damask Satin Double satin, the groundand the figures formed by warp andweft satin.

Damask Stitch In embroidery, a varietyof satin stitch (see), it takes in four

horizontal threads of foundation or

two stitches in a slanting direction

and over two upright threads. Theremaining second lines of the damaskstitch are taken over the two lower

threads of the upper line and two newthreads instead of all the threads be-

ing new.

DAM 51 DEF

Damasquette An 18th century silk bro-cade of Venice, showing floral designsin ijold thread which was rolled outflat under heavy pressure, after takenfrom the loom, forming a continuousgold surface.

Oamassade Very soft, obsolete Frenchdress goods, made in single color or

warp and ftlling of different colors.

It has no reverse side.

Damasse d, French shawl, made withcombed wool warp and filling withlarge flower designs; 2, French forfabrics having both the ground andthe large patterns woven in satin

weave but of various colored orlustered yarn; 3, in French generalterm for fabrics woven on a Jacquardloom. See also Ouvre.

Damassee de Chasse Obsolete Frenchcoutil (see), made very stout, about30 inches wide, having linen warpand cotton filling; used for sportingclothes.

Damassin A gold and silver brocade,originally from Venice in 'the 17th

century, later made in France. Thegold or silver threads have 'been flat-

tened out (after the weaving) underheavy pressure, forming the design in

a continuous surface.

Dame Joan Ground In needlepoint lacesa hexagonal filling, each side com-posed of two parallel threads.

Damier French for large square checksin solid colors.

Danish Cloth Plain woven, stout cottondress goods, made in solid colors andslightly sized.

Danish Embroidery The lace-like whiteembroidery on the edges of handker-chiefs.

Darale East Indian unbleached cottonfalbric having a red stripe parallelwith the selvage; used for garmentsby the native women.

Dardanelles Canvas Coarse Turkish can-vas; used for sails and farmers' suits.

Dari Thick, coarse, very durable andwashable woven cotton carpet ofsmall dimension; made in India.

Dariabanis East Indian bleached cottoncloth.

Darida East Indian cloth, made in vari-ous coflors of vegetable fibers.

Darin French canvas of coarse hempyarn.

Daris Bast Indian cotton cloth.

Darnamas Fine, bleached cotton fabricfrom Smyrna.

Darnec <See Dorneck.

Darned Lace or Darned Netting Plainsquare or other net; used for groundreseau and is decorated with stitches;also called open lace Siena point andpoint conte, in the latter the stitchesbeing counted.

Darnet A French wool and silk fabric ofthe loth century, brocaded with gold.

Darnick Sixteenth century English wors-ted.

Darning The filling up of holes, rents,etc., in textiles by means of forming anew texture with the thread andneedle.

Darning Cotton (Soft spun cotton thread;used for mending holes.

Darya A rough faced, stout, natural col-ored fabric, made of wild silk in EastIndia.

Date Palm The leaf fibers are used forropes, bags, hats, etc., in Asia Minor.

Datil 'Leaf fibers yielded by a species ofthe cocoanut palm in Brazil; usedfor 'baskets, hats, etc.

Dauglin Coarse Philippine 'fiber; usedfor cordage.

Dauphine S'tout French silk dress goodsof wool and silk, often made withflower powdering in many colors. Itis similar to the droguets; obsolete.

Davidson A Highland tartan composedas follows over a dark green ground,the stripes running both warp andweftwise; a group of black stripeswith two narrow stripes at the edgesand a wide bar between, the latter splitby a narrow stripe of red in thecenter; a bar of dark green, aboutthe width of the 'black group, split inthe middle with a black stripe (ofthe same width as the edge stripes inthe black group) ; a group of navystripes, of the same dimensions asthe black, the center bar likewisesplit by a red stripe; followed by agreen bar as above and repeat.

'Dead Cotton Undeveloped or unripe cot-ton fiber; it is difficult to dye or spin.

Dead Wool Removed from the skin ofdead sheep by sweating.

Dean A commercial variety of uplandcotton from South Carolina.

Dearing A late maturing commercial va-riety of cotton, yielding very largepercentage of lint; the staple meas-ures i20-25 millimeters.

Debage French dress fabric, made withluster 'wool iwarp of natural color anddyed 'woolen filling.

Debuani Native East African tradename for cotton falbrics, woven withred, yellow, black, or blue stripes, bor-ders or checks; used for turbans.

Decan Hemp Soft, silky and strong fiber,yielded by the hibiscus plant in Indiaand iSudan; used as substitute forhemp for ropes.

Decating Treating wool and silk fabricsand yarn with steam or hot water, totaike the curl out.

Dechets 'French for silk waste.

Decorcioate Process of separating thewoody substance from certain stemfibers, like ramie.

Decrease In bobbin lace, knitting, cro-'cheting means diminishing the pat-terns by using less stitches or loops.

Deerfield Rag rugs, counterpanes, quilts,etc., made at D., Mass., in arts andcrafts style.

De Fundato .Medieval silk, dyed purpleand having a gold net pattern.

DEC 52 DEV

Degumming Process for removing thenatural gum, sericin, from the silk.

Dehbid Persian all-wool knotted rugs,similar to Kermanshaw, but of infe-rior quality.

Delaine 1, French term, meaning "of

wool"; 2, trade term for combing me-rino wool of medium fine quality; 3,

wool raised in Ohio, said to have the

strongest staple of all wools; 4, origi-

nally a lightweight, plain wovenFrench fabric, made of all-wool anddyed in 'the piece; at the present it

is made in England of a mixture of

cotton and wool and often printed.

Delhi Embroidery Rich East Indian em-broidery, made in chain stitch, in 'gold,

silver and silk over satin or other silk

ground.Delinere 'French bleached linen of me-

dium quality for the household.

Delvei Gray cotton faJbric in the Africanmarkets.

Demerara Raw cotton from Guiana.

Demeshek In the Bible means silk.

Demi In England worsted yarn of No. 30.

Demi Drap Fine French woolen cloth of

ligfhtweigiht, fulled lightly, shorn andcalendered.

Demi Hollande Obsolete, bleached fine

French canvas, made of linen yarn.

Demi Londres Loosely woven and lightlyfulled French woolen, usually left un-finished.

Demi Lustre 1, wool of fairly fine staple,not as long and lustrous as lustrewool; included are Cotswold, Devon,Roscommon, Romney, Wensleydale;used for yarns of 36s to 46s count; 2,

yarns of 36s to 46s count, made ofsuch wool; 3, see L/ustre Orleans.

Demi Mousseline Very light Frenchcambric of cotton or linen yarn, madeplain or striped.

Demi Ostade .Medieval Dutch woolenfabric, finished "with a napped facewithout fulling.

Demi Satin Obsolete satin; used for

drapery, etc.

Demi Tories Thin French lining; obsolete.

Demirdji Rugs All-wool rugs, made inAsia Minor; the loose and mediumlong pile is tied in Ghiordes knot. Thedestgns and colors show great vari-ety.

Demittons Stout English cotton clothsfor the Oriental trade.

Demyostage Obsolete 'Scotch woolencloth, lightly dressed. See DemiOstade.

Denes Blanket Woven by British Colum-bia Indians (Denes), both warp and'filling made of twisted strips of rab-bit skin.

Denier Unit of measurement of the fine-ness of silk yarn; the denier is theweight of a certain length of yarn,varying from 450 to 500 meters in dif-ferent localities.

Denim 'Washable, strong, stout twilledcotton clc-th, made of single yarn, andeither dyed in the piece or wovenwith dark brown or dark blue warpand white filling; used for overalls,skirts, etc.

Denmark Satin Stout English worstedsatin, dyed black and finished with ahigh luster; used for slippers.

Densa A heavy, fulled woolen fabric;used for winter toga by the oldRomans.

Dental Floss Slack spun strong silk yarn;used to clean the teeth with.

Dentele iFrench for scalloped or festoonedge.

Dentelle 'French term for lace since the17th century.

Dentelle de Fil French term for laces,made of one-ply thread.

Dentelle a la Vierge French bobfoinlace, with dou'ble ground, similar tothe Ave Maria lace (see).

Dents 'French for scallops or points, as in

edges of laces.

Deora Indian jute, having a very dark,strong and coarse fiber; used for

ropes.

Derbent Rugs 'Medium and large sizedrugs, made in Caucasia. They are all-

wool, the warp occasionally of goathair, with long soft pile tied inGhiordes knot and having a fine lus-ter. The weave is loose. The designsare geometrical, star patterns oftenoccurring. The chief colors are red,yellow and blue. The ends are fin-

ished with a long, knotted fringe.

Derby 'Hosiery knitted with six ribs onthe face and three on back alternat-ing.

Deriband East Indian bleached cottonfabric.

Derries Cotton dress goods, made inbrown and blue colors, in India.

Desi Indian jute, the fiber is long andvery soft, but has a dark color; usedfor gunny bags and burlap.

Design A complete plan of the characterof a textile fabric, giving both its

construction and the decorative pat-tern.

Desooksoy -East Indian cotton doth.

Deswal 'Indian jute of second best grade:it is strong, fine, has a light lustrouscolor and is soft; also called siradj-ganj.

Developing See Diazotizing.

Developing Agents Various organicchemicals, 'which mixed with dye-stuffs or other chemicals, bring forthinsoluble colors which are not lakes.

Devil's Cotton A strong and silky whitebast fiber, yielded by the abroma in


Devil's Nettle Fine, white and strongfiber, yielded by a species of nettlein Assam; used for cordage andcoarse fabrics.

DEV DIG

Devon 1. obsolete, well fulled thick wool-en overcoating, similar to kersey;worn in England; 2, name for a six-

pick huckaback weave; used for

cheaper towels.

Devonia Ground A filling in Duchesselace, consisting of irregularly spread-ing plaited bars, ornamented withpivots.

Devonia Lace Species of the Honitonlace (see), the flower petals or but-terfly wings being made in raised re-lief effect.

Devonshire Kersey White English ker-sey, originated in the early part ofthe Ifrfh oemtury. Also called washersand wash whites.

Devonshire Lace 'Bobbin lace of old

origin, influenced in the 17th centuryby Flanders. Some time ago Greeikitorchon laces with geometric designs,black laces, similar to the Honiton(see) and, also trolly laces were madeat D.

Dewdrops Cs'etting, ornamented with lit-

tle drops formed of gelatine or glass.

Dextrine Is roasted starch; used for fin-

ishing cotton goods and in printing.

Dha Xative hemp from Senegal; usedfor "antiificial" wool, by treating it

with nitric acid and solution of na-triumsuperoxide, which render thefiber transparent and crinkled.

Dharwar East Indian raw cotton, 'havinga moderately strong, fairly clean sta-ple of golden color.

Dhollerah 'East Indian raw cotton, hav-ing a fairly strong, cohesive fiber ofdull whitish color; it is usually verydirty.

Dhooties Originally a reversible handwoven cotton faJbric, having a plain'body and 'bright colored borders andheads, woven with colored fillingwhere the colored border stripes are;used for garments, scarfs and turbansin India and Afri'ca. Now often madewith the filling for the white or graybody, interlacing with the coloredborders. It is a soft, ligftt cloth, thebody woven in plain weave.

Dhunchee 'Lon'g, coarse and harsh bastfiber, yielded by the Sestoania acule-ata in India; used for ropes, cords,etc.

Dhurrie East Indian thick cotton drap-ery, made with warp ribs and broadweft stripes in blue or red.

Diabiki Medieval Arabic silk fabric withbrocaded flowers.

Diable Fuerte (Bedford cords and cordu-roys in South American countries.

Diafalement Fort 'Made in France of lin-en warp and cotton filling.

Diagonal 1. large twills, producingheavy diagonal lines; 2, name for anumber of wool and worsted dressfabrics, the twill showing in wide,diagonal or serpentine wales. Thereare a larger number of picks thanends in a square inch; 3, see Cantoon.

Diagonal Stitch In embroidery a couchedgold or silk thread fastened downwith diagonal stitches.

Diagonales Gray coflton drill in Colom-bia.

Diamantee ^Frerifh silk vesting madewith two-ply warp, 20 leaves and eight'fillings in a repeat.

Diamantine English twilled worsteddress goods witth a high finish; obso-lete; 2, 18th century woolen fabric in

England.Diamond 1, a twill produced toy revers-

ing the direction of the twill to formsquares; 2, matchings from the sidesof down fleeces of 48/50 quality; 3,

worsted warp yarn, made by twistinga 4s with a 2/'36s with eight turns perinch and then reverse twisting thiswith a 2/36s strand with four turnsper inch; 4, commercial variety ofshort staple, upland cotton in America.

Diamond Braid A soutache 'braid madewith five threads, each thread passingalternately under and over twothreads.

Diamond Draught Diaper In Ireland ar>

eight-leaf, twilled, linen diaper cloth,with diamond patterns.

Diamond Linen 'See Diaper.

Diamond Net Made with lozenge shapedmesh.

Diamond Stitch In embroidery rows ofsilk thread couched down by silk andgold thread running diagonally at op-posite directions and forming smalldiamonds.

Diamond Yarn See Diamond, 3.

Diaper 1, rich silk fabric of the MiddleAges, made with single colored pat-terns; used for church vestments,dresses, e*c. ; originated from theOrient; 2, a twill raising three warpsin succession, followed by a pick af-ter which the weave is reversed; alsoa pattern formed by twilled checks,originally with a five-leaf satin

weave; 3, white linen or cotton fabric,made with small diamond or bird's

eye pattern, in the above describedtwill weave; used for towels, chil-

dren's dresses, etc.; 4, a grade of da-mask linen, made in Ireland; 5, stout,twilled cotton drill, made with col-ored checks.

Diaphane A transparent white or print-ed, French cotton gauze; obsolete.

Diapistus A rich medieval fabric of un-known structure.

Diazotizing A process by which fast col-ors are produced by semi-fast orfugitive dyes by treating the fabrics,after the dyeing, in a solution of so-dium nitrate and sulphuric acid andthen with some developer (naphtyla-mines, ammonias, carbolic acid andother organic compounds).

Dibah or Dibadj Durable medieval silk

brocade dress goods of Persianorigin.

Dice Same as lozenge or diamond pat-tern.

DIG 54 DOR

Dickson Commercial variety of earlymaturing American cotton, the staplemeasuring 23-26 millimeters andforming- large clustered bolls; theyield is 3<l-32 per cent; also called

Simpoon.Dieppe Lace French bobbin lace of vari-

ous fineness, originally made both inblack and white, now of white flaxthread with a ground of three .threads.It is similar to the Valenciennes.

Dima Narrow cotton cloth, made by thenatives of Syria.

Dimakso Arabian term for raw silk.

Dimantino Twilled woolen cloth; used asdress goods and drapery; obsolete.

Dimity 1, a narrow washable white orprinted cotton fabric, made with fine

iwarp cords; it is quite thin and sheer;2, also a stout cotton fabric madewith warp cords and dyed in thepiece or printed; used for drapery; 3,

originally it was a wool and silk fab-ric.

Dimity Binding <Has smooth edges andraised patterns.

Dingy (Class of wool, lacking in bright-ness and deficient of color, but nototherwise faulty.

Direct Dyes Various dyestuffs which canbe used without previously mordant-ing the fabric. Such dyes are mostlysynthetic.

Direct Printing A method of printing allkinds of fabrics; the dyestuff is pro-duced directly on the fabric duringthe process of printing. The color isoften set by steam.

Dirodina A medieval silk fabric of darkpink color.

Discharge Printing Consists of printingpatterns on a solid colored, piece dyedground by removing the color withvarious acids or other chemicals; usedin cotton and silk printing.

Diseased Wool Which was taken fromthe skin of sheep died of disease.

Ditsosi 'Navajo ^blanket with a longshaggy pile on one side. This pileis not part of the yarn, but is twistedaround the warp in raws and held in

place by several ptcks.

Dittis Obsolete, strong English fabric;used for bags.

Diventum A medieval fabric of unknownstructure.

Diyogi Plain woven Navajo blanket,made of thick and loose yarn.

Djidjim Oriental portieres, composed ofwide strips of different colored cot-ton and wool fabrics sewed togetherand crudely embroidered at the seamsand the edges.

Djule Knitted Persian wool rugs withlong haired back.

Dobby 1, name for an English worstedfabric, originated in the 19th century,woven with bird's eye patterns; 2,

small Jacquard patterns.

Doctored Same as manipulated.

Doeuma Very wide coarse gingham,often with large check design, havinga medium soft finish; used in Turkeyfor bed and table covers, curtains,skirts, etc.

Doeskin Fine, soft, warp faced and fulledwoolen fabric, made of fine Botanywool in five-leaf satin weave and giv-en a dress finish with very soft shortnapped face; used for riding suits,etc.

Doesootjes Fine East Indian bleachedcotton fabric.

Dogskin Heavy weft plush fabric, the

pile being formed by mohair yarn.

Doily Obsolete English woolen fabric.

Dolichos Fine, silky stem fiber, yieldedby the Dolichos trilobus in China andIndia; used for cloth.

Dolly Varden Light cotton or silk dressgoods, printed with highly coloredflowers.

Domestico Liso Gray cotton sheeting in

'Colombia.

Domestico Crudo Gray cotton sheeting in

Venezuela.

Domestics 'Cotton goods, shirtings andsheetings made in America.

Domet A lightweight cloth, similar to

flannel, made of cotton warp and cot-

ton or cotton and wool weft. It is

woven in warp stripes with plainweave and finished 'with a nap onboth sides; used for pajamas, shirts,

etc.

Donau Linen Austrian damask table lin-

en, made with borders or borderstripes in colors, mostly 'blue or red.

Donchery Stout French woolen serge.

Donegal Originally a very thick andwarm, all-wool homespun or tweed,woven by Irish peasants on hand-looms.

Donna Maria 1, French silk fabric, usedfor dresses, neckwear, etc.; there are

eight leaves and twelve fillings in arepeat; 2, very light, sheer silk fabric,used for veils by religious orders.

Donskoi Trade name for wools fromsouthern Russia; the staple is coarse,

straight and loose, wihout kemps;used for carpets, etc.

Donsu 'Silk damask in Japan.

Doorea Fine Dacca muslin.

Dopata Fine East Indian cotton muslin;used for veils and shawls.

Dori Cotton rope, made by the nativesof India; used for tents.

Doriah 1, gray, bleached or dyed (blue orblack), plain woven cotton goods, fin-

ished soft or hard; used for outergarments by the natives in Egypt;2, a plain woven bleached cotton clothin Arabia with prominent raised

stripes produced by placing the warpends closer.

DOR 55 DOU

Dornock or Dornek 1, coarse English lin-

en diaper with check patterns; usedfor the table and for drapery; 2, in-

ferior damask of the 15th century,made of wool, silk and gold.

Dorset A fairly long and fine Englishwool.

Dorsetshire Lace Obsolete English bob-bin lace of great beauty.

Dorsetteen 'Has worsted warp and silk

filling, made in England.Doru -Persian khilim (see), woven with

solid cross stripes.

Dorure French term for gold braids,tresses, etc.

Dosia 'Chinese unfashioned woolen ho-siery.

Dosuti 'Strong cotton cloth made in in-dia of two-ply warp and filling in

plain weave.Dot Stitch See Point de Pois.

Dotis East Indian calico.

Dotted Swiss A thin and open weave,soft cotton muslin, made with do-t

patterns with heavy cotton yarn, us-ing the swivel motion; 'used for cur-tains, summer dresses, etc.

Double Hosiery, knit with single thread,has the toe or heel usually reinforcedby the addition of another thread.

To Double A process of twisting two ormore single yarns together, as a rulein an opposite direction to the twist'given the single yarns.

Double Cassinet 'Satin, made of cottonwarp and alternate cotton and woolen'filling.

Double Cloth >A fabric woven with twosets of warp and two sets of flllin'g.Both sides may be alike or differentand often can be worn on the out-side.

Double Cote -French serge made with 10leaves and 10 picks in a repeat.

Double Cross Stitch In em'broidery twothreads, with knots over them, arestretched in herringbone fashion, an- .

other single thread, also in herring-bone effect, crossing the first one.

Double ^Damask Has both the ground andthe patterns woven in eight-leafsatin.

Double Dyed Unions dyed twice.

Double Faced 'Double cloths or backedcloths which can be worn either sideon the ou-tside.

Double Jean Obsolete name for serge.

Double Leviathan Stitch In embroideryconsists of a large cross stitch (see)with long cross stitches to fill in theholes on each side, and lastly an up-right cross stitch over the whole.

Double Pick Two picks of filling shotinto the same shed; used in crossribbed fabrics and heavy 'goods.

Double Pile Fabrics woven with pile oneach side.

Double Plain A double cloth, having bothlayers woven plain, often in differentcolors, interchanged at intervals toproduce designs.

Double Plush 1, knitted fabric, made'With two face yarns and a backingyarn, which is napped; 2, fabric hav-ing plush pile on both sides.

Double Plush Weaving Process to weave,face to face, two separate cut warppile fabrics without the use of wires.Two separate ground cloths arewoven, the pile warps passing fromone cloth to the other and are cutIn the middle.

Double Ribbon Trade name in Englandfor reversible figured ribbons.

Double Satin Double faced overcoating,both sides woven with a five-leaf

satin.

Double-spun Yarn Perfectly smoothyarn.

Double 'Stitch or Star Stitch In embroid-ery, variety of the tent stitch (see)

composed of a tent stitch with twosmaller parallel tent stitches on eachside.

Double Warp Trade term for variousbetter grades of fabrics in England,made with two-ply warp.

Double and Twist Two-ply yarn, the twostrands being of different colors.

Double Width 'Same as broad goods, 54

inches, or wider.

Double Worsted Stout, medieval Englishworsted, about 45 inches wide.

Doublerie French term for a printedcanvas.

Doubles In England black silk shoestrings of various widths.

Doubling !, the process of twisting to-

gether two or more plies or strands of

yarn; 2, a process in silk throwing,consists of uniting several singlethreads on the same bobbin withoutany twist.

Doublings English lining of cotton.

Doublure^l, French term for lining; 2,

coarse bleached woolen military suit-

ing in France.

Douglas A Highland tartan, the stripesrunning warp and weftwise as fol-

lows: Wide navy blue bar, split in

the center by a narrow white line;a dark green bar, half of the width ofthe navy; a black stripe, half thewidth of the green, with pale bluelines next to it on both sides; anothergreen bar, as above.

Douillon (French term for the lowestgrade of wool.

Doup Edge Split goods or ribbons whichare woven several widths together, to

be split later, are made with doup edgein gauze weave, to prevent unravel-ing.

Doupions Two cocoons more or less

closely interwoven with each other,preventing the reeling of the silk.

Doupion Silk Reeled from double co-coons or doupions; is slightly inferiorto ordinary raw silk. It is raised in

Japan, adapted to strong cheap fab-rics; is of exceptional tensile strengthand elasticity.

DOW 56 ORE

Dowlah Wide bleached cotton sheetingin Servia.

Dowlas Stout, coarse, half-bleached lin-

en, made in Ireland and England; usedfor shirts, towels, etc. There is also

a cotton cloth, made in imitation of D.

Downright Woolsorting term in the wool-en trade, meaning the wool taken fromthe lower parts of the sides of afleece. It is next to the finest sort.

Downs English short and medium wools,which are fuzzy; used for hosiery,woolens, etc.; included are Dorset,Oxford, Shropshire, Wiltshire, South-down, Hampshire.

Dowrah iSee Deora.

Doyley See Doily.

Dozens English kersey, worn underHenry VIII.

Drab Cloth Thick, strong woolen over-coating of gray color in England.

Drabbet Coarse, twilled linen duck, whiteor colored, made in England.

Draft 'Fine, all-wool, warp ribbed cloth;used in churches.

Drake Clustei A commercial variety -of

early maturing American upland cot-

ton, the staple measuring 22-25 milli-

meters; the yield is 31-32 per cent.

Dram In England and the United Statesthe weight in drams of 1,000 yards of

silk yarn is the unit of measurement.See Denier.

Drap French for woolen.

Drap d'Alep French dress goods andmen's suiting, .made of silk warp andwoolen filling and fulled; obsolete.

Drap d'Alma Closely woven twilled, woolor silk mixed ribbed fabric, finished onthe face only.

Drap d'Arest Rich silk cloth of the Mid-dle Ages; used for church vestments.

Draps de Baye iStout French mourningdress goods, made with long nappedshaggy surface.

Drao de Beaucamp iA stout and coarseFrench twilled suiting, made of linen

warp and woolen filling in solid colors.

Drap Bresi I ienne 'French serge dressgoods, made of pure silk or mixed withwool.

Drap de Chasse 'A plain woven women'ssuiting, made with fine silk warp andheavy cotton filling, forming promi-nent cross ribs.

Draps Chats French woolen dress goods,made of white wool warp and coloredwool -filling, dyed black in the piece.

Draps Croises French for twilled cloths.

Drap de Dame Very light, eoft, all-woolFrench dress goods, similar to theflannel or Spanish stripes, slightlyfulled.

Drap Edredon Light, soft and warmwinter coating, made of the finest

wool, completely fulled.

Drap d'Ete lightweight twilled worsteddress goods, with warp ribs; used for

summer garments, etc.

Drao Geraldine Heavy woolen dress

goods, made in dark mixtures.

Draps de Gobelin Fine French woolendress goods, dyed scarlet red.

Draps de Gros Bureau Coarse French'woolen suitings, dyed black, gray, orwhite; used by the peasants.

Drap Imperial 'Fine French dress goods,woven plain of wool and cotton.

Drap de Milord Various kinds of Frenchserge dress goods, made with 12

leaves and from 6 to 12 picks in arepeat.

Drap Natte Fulled woolen cloth of Eng-lish origin, made in solid or severalcolors and having a raised nap onthe back.

Drap de Pauvre Coarse serge, made of

natural reddish brown, undyed andunsecured wool. Formerly extensivelyused in France for clothes by the

poorer classes.

Drap Phenix Very light and durableFrench men's suiting and dress goods;obsolete.

Drap Pique Quilted silk fabric, madewith fancy figures; used for men'svests.

Drap de Prince Silk or wool serge suit-

ing made with eight leaves and three

picks in a repeat.

Drap Royal 1, lightweight twilledFrench woolen dress goods, made of

organzine warp and very fine wors-ted filling in small cross ribs; 2, obso-lete, lightweight, fulled and printedFrench woolen cloth; used for vests,

etc.

Drap Sanglier Rough faced Frenchmourning dress goods, made of all

wool in loose weave.

Drap Satin Woolen dress goods, madewith a highly finished satin face.

Drap de Silesie Lightweight, all-woolFrench dress goods, fulled.

Drap de Soie 1. French term for heavysilk dress goods; 2, various, closely

woven serge dress goods and men'ssuitings, originally made black.

Drap Soleil 'French dress fabric of highlustre, made of wool with wide weftribs.

Drap Zephii Fine French woolen dress

goods, similar to cachemire.

Drapade 'See Somimiere.

Drapery 1. In England term for drygoods; 2, textiles, used for upholstery,curtains, hangings, etc.

Drawboy English lasting. made of

double worsted warp and wool filling;

used for women's shoes, made in the

19th century in England; obsolete.

Drawn Work 'Made by pulling out cer-

tain threads of loosely woven linen

and fastening the remaining threads

together with various fancy stitches

into patterns.

Dreadnought Variety c-f bearskin cloth

(see).

Dresden 1, 18th century woolen fabric in

England. 2, small flower design in

pastel shades, usually in wanpprints.

DRE 57 DUN

Dresden Point Drawn work ornamentedwith colored silk thread embroideryin Germany.

Dresden Ribbon iSilk or cotton ribbon,in various widths, the warp is print-ed in delicate colored flower pat-terns before weaving.

Dress FacedWoolen fabrics having afulled and slightly napped face.

Dress Goods Large variety of woolen,worsted, silk or cotton fabrics; usedfor women's and children's dresses.

Dressed Flax See Hackled.

Dressed Line Trade term for thoroughlyhackled flax.

Dressing <1, size made of gum, starch,china clay, etc., to stiffen cotton, lin-

en and silk cloths; 2, a finishing pro-cess, consisting in sizing the fabricwith gums, rice water, oil, etc., in

order to give luster, weight or stiff-

ness to the fabric.

Dril 1, plain or twilled cotton goods in

Spain, always colored, either dyed in

Che piece or in the yarn; used for

men's suits; 2, in Jamaica plain wov-en cottonades, plaids, etc.; used fortrousers.

Dril Negro Firme 'Piece dyed cottoncoating in Colombia.

Drill 'Stout, strong twilled cotton goodsof medium weight, dyed in the pieceor woven with black or brown warpand white filling; used for trousers,etc.

Drilled Embroidery (Bohrware), is madeon hand or shuttle machine by cut-

ting holes in the cambric and em-broidering the cut edges.

Drillette In England a variety of weftfaced, light weight drill, woven in athree, four or five shaft twill.

Droguet 1, collective term for variouscotton wool and silk cloths, made in

France and England. It is madeplain, woven or twilled and patterned,usually slightly fulled. 2, obsoleteterm for various ribbed French wors-ted dress goods.

Drop Lea The strong web which handmade rugs are started with.

Drosin Suiting made of silk waste andworsted yarn. Made in Holland.

Drought Proof Same as Texas stormproof.

Drugget 1, plain, twilled or corded Eng-lish fabric of the 18th century, madewith worsted warp and woolen filling;2, printed and felted woolen fabric;used for floor covering.

Druid 'Cotton duck in England and Aus-tralia.

Drummond 1, originally a twilled Englishworsted in Oxford gray, woven withdou'oie and twust yarn; 2, a Highlandtartan with red as predominating col-o.', tne stripes running as follows,each way: A wide field of red, splitwith two pairs of narrow dark bluelines, the center stripe between thetwo pairs being about one third thewidth of the wide side stripes. * Thenext group of stripes is as wide asboth pairs of blue stripes, the centerred stripes, and one side red stripe,and consists of the following: Nar-row pale blue line, narrow red line,dark blue stripe, narrow red line, nar-row green line, narrow red line, widegreen bar (being of the same widthas the wide red bars mentioned abovein the red group), narrow red lineand narrow dark 'blue line. * This is

followed by a wide red stripe, afterwhich the entire group described be-tween the two * is repeated in a re-versed order.

Dry Goods General term in United Statesfor all textiles.

Dsedim or Jedim Oriental rug, made ofseveral strips of colored knitted woolsewed together.

Dsujnabe or Jujnabe 'Central Asiaticknotted wool rugs.

Dubahi A calico in Persia; used forclothing.

Ducape A plain woven medium fine, softribbed silk fabric; used in the 17thcentury in England.

Duchesse 'A rich stout silk satin in solidcolor, with a broad twilled baak.

Duchester 'Sort of English velvet.

Duck 'Very closely woven, stiff and dura-ble cotton fabric, made with hardtwist two-ply yarn in plain weave inecru white or stripes, usually twowarps are run through each dent;used for awnings, tents, sails, etc.The lightest weights are for sulnm'erclothing.

Duffels or Duffields Thick woolen over- ^^coating of Belgian origin having aheavy, chinchilla like nap; obsolete.In the 17th century, made in Englandand exported to America for winterwear. 'See also Bath Coating.

Dul Very strong and fine fiber, yieldedtoy the stem of a climber in Ceylon.

Dumb Singles The finest of Mie reeledsilk yarns; it has no twist.

Dumb-Waiter Rope Trade name for un-tarred cables or cordage of hemp.

Dumican Embroidery work made by tl>eold Araucanians in Chile.

Dumobin A fine grade of Scotch plaid.

Dunbai A Highland tartan, made withgreen stripes and black lines on ared ground.

Duncan Commercial variety of latematuring long staple cotton fromGeorgia, growing in large bolls.

Dunchee Strong and very elastic bastfiber, yielded by the Sesbania Aculeatain India; used for ropes and as asubstitute for hemp.

DUN EDE

Dundas A Highland tartan, the stripesrunning both ways as follows: Blackstripe; navy blue stripe, twice as wideas the 'black and split in the center

by a narrow black line; black slripe,

as wide as the first one; a wide field

of dark green (made a little narrowerthan the above -mentioned black, blueand black stripes combined) and split

in the center by a group of red, green,dark blue, green and red lines.

Dundee 1, soft, smooth, twilled woolen,having very little nap; 2, coarse bur-

laps, crashes, baggins, etc., made of

jute, flax and hemp in D., Scotland.

Dungaree 1, coarse blue denim; used in

the American navy; 2, a navy blue

jean, used in England for sailors'

clothes; made also for the exporttrade, chiefly India. The filling is

dyed in the yarn, while the warp is

white; 3, blue drill in South Africa.

Dunging A process in the mordantingof cotton fabric resulting in fixing the

mortdant to the fabric. Various so-

diums, carbonate of ammonium, etc.,

are used.

Dunkirk Lace Pillow lace of the 17th

century; similar to Malines (see).

Dunrobin Fine woolen with a Scotch

plaid design.

Dunster Coarse broadcloth-like kersey,made first in England in the 14t'h

century; obsolete.

Duraforte 16th century Italian worsted,made very strong and stout.

Durance or Durant English woolen andworsteds, made in various colors andvery strong texture; used in the 16th

and 17th centuries.

Duree Quilt iMade with large patternsformed by coarse thread on a plainwoven ground; made bleached or in

colors.

D u retty <Same as Durance.

Duria Striped cotton muslin from In-

dia, made with a two-ply warp.

Durois Stout French coating of worstedyarn, made with a smooth finish.

Duroy All-worsted smooth, open--facefabric, made in England during the18th century; used for men's wear.

Durris Cotton carpets woven by the na-tives in Patna, India.

Duster Thin cotton or linen fabric, madedust-proof; used for coats.

Dutch Camlet 'Holland dress goods, warpand filling made of combed wool andrabbits' hair; the warp is two-plyand ifiner than the filling, which formscrossribs.

Dutch Carpet Made with worsted warpwhich runs over and under a single

^filling; otherwise similar to the Vene-tian carpet.

Dutch Tape Trade term in England for

linen tapes, the width graded from11 to 15d, according to the numberof threads supposed to be in it.

Duvetyn A very soft French fabric, madeof worsted warp and two-ply silk

(tussah) filling in four harness twill

weave, the filling covering the face.A fine downy nap is raised with anemery cylinder; used for coats, dress-es. The cheaper grades are similarto the pocket velvet.

Dyed in the Grease Large number of lowgrade worsteds are dyed as they comefrom the loom, without being scoured'first. Dyeing in the grease is usedonly for black and blue colors.

Dyed in the Wool Fabrics, the wool inwhich was dyed before spun.

Dyed in the Yarn (Fabrics in which theyarn was dyed before woven. See piecedye.

Dynamiting See Weighting.Dzoul A khilim (see) made in Anatolia

of various shades of natural coloredgoat's 'hair and wool, without any de-sign.

Early Carolina 'See Carolina Pride.

Earth Flax 'Same as Asbestos.

East Improved A commercial variety oflate maturing cotton from Georgia,yielding 31-32 per cent of longstaple.

Eboutage French term meaning res-toration of torn needle-point laces.

Ecaille 1, French silk dress goods, madewith ply warps, six leaves and 32

fillings in a repeat. 2, fish scale like

work, made of flat quills over silk orvelvet.

Ecailles In Brussels lace, a ground re-

sembling scales.

Ecaille de Poisson A reseau ground in

lace, resembling fish scales.

Echantillon 'Clipping; sample of a tex-tile fabric.

Echizen Trade term for the test gradesof Japanese silk fabrics.

Ecossais French and English dress

goods, made of all worsted, also withcotton warp, with bright colored plaiddesigns.

Ecru 'Natural color of cotton, wool, silk

or fabrics thereof; unbleached.

Ecru Lace 'The geometrical designs are

composed of ecru colored plain andcrinkled tape, connected with brides.

Ecru Silk Has only the most soluble partof the natural gum removed togetherwith the coloring pigments.

Edging^A narrow lace; used on the bor-der or edge of garments.

Edisto^The best grade of Sea Island cot-

ton, has a very long, fine uniformand silky staple.

Edelweiss Lace Another name for Aetz-stickerei (see).

EDR 59 EMB

Edredon Pine soft woolen woven in

three-leaf twill, made with a filling

thicker than the warp.Edredon Vegetale -French term for a

tree cotton of Martinique.Effect Yarn Warp or weft yarn, intro-

duced into the cloth for the only pur-pose to produce certain effects, as in

color, knots, loops, etc.

Effigeen Obsolete lining.

Efflle .French for fringed.

Effilure ^French term for unraveling of

edges of the cloth.

Egipto lA Peruvian cotton derived fromthe American upland seed, having a

staple of about 1 % inches; good forcoarse yarns.

Egyptian Cloth 'Cotton cloth for woolembroidery.

Egyptian Flax Very long and coarsefiber of reddish hue.

Egyptienne '1, French silk dress goods,solid colored or in various colors; ob-solete. 2, dress goods, made of wool,camel's hair and waste sil'k. 3, obso-lete; dress goods with narrow satin

stripes over ribbed ground.

Eiderdown d, a soft, elastic knitted fab-ric, made of thick, soft spun yarn;it is heavily napped on one side; 2,

a loose thiok woolen fabric, with adeep nap on one side.

Eider lYarn Very soft knitting yarn,made of fine wool.

Eis Wool or Ice Wool Fine, two-plyworsted knitting yarn.

Ejoo Very strong, dark colored fiber,found at the base of the leaves of thesago palm in Malacca; it does not rotin water; used for cordage, cables,etc.

Eksuti Cotton cloth made in India of

single warp and .filling.

Elastics Narrow fabrics iwith some of the

warp thread made of rubber; used for

belts, suspenders, shoes, etc.

Elastic Canvas 'Plain woven cotton fab-

ric, dyed in solid colors; used as stiff-

ener in garments.

Elastic Cord Has a rubber core withfine silk thread wound around; usedfor men's hats.

Elastic Flannel 'English knitted goodswith raised nap on the face; used forwomen's garments.

Elastic Gore An elastic tape made withrubber threads; used for the sides of

shoes; usually in black and tan.

Elastic Webbing A stout, strong narrowfabric, made with rubber threads aspart of the warp; used for suspend-ers, garters, belts, etc.

Elastik In Austria a light weight sheer,unbleached linen fabric, given astrong finish; used for underlining.

Elastique Fine men's overcoating, madeof merino wool toward the middle ofthe 19th century.

Elatche East Indian cotton and silk clothwith check patterns.

Elberfeld Silk Trade name for Glanzstoff(see).

Electoral Cloth 'Fine, reversible woolendress goods, the face woven in 2-1weft twill and the back with fine ribs.

Electra Dress goods, made of cotton andsilk.

Electric Velvet (English cotton or silkvelvet, made with light colored dotspowdered over a dark colored foun-dation.

Elephant Toweling 'Rough faced, coarseand strong cotton or linen cloth; usedfor towels, embroideries, and drawn-work in England.

Elken iHeavy cotton duck or sail cloth InRoumania and Bulgaria.

Ellementes 17th century English worsted.Elliot A Highland tartan rwith a navy

ground. Far apart from each otherare pairs of nut brown stripes witha wide blue stripe between the halfof each pair. This blue stripe is splitin the center by a narrow red stripe.

EllsworthCommercial variety of late'maturing cotton from North Carolina,the staple measuring 21-24 millimet-ers; the yield is 30-33 per cent.

Elongated Twill >Has an angle more than40 degrees.

Elysee Applique work, the floral pat-terns being cut out of two sateensof different colors and then embroid-ered.

Elysian A heavily napped, thiok woolenovercoating of .French origin; thenap is finished in undulating lines.

Emajagua See Damajagua.Embauba Very tough bast fiber yielded

by the trumpet tree in Brazil; usedfor bags.

Embira "Several kinds of bast 'fibers inBrazil; used for nets by the natives.

Emboss Pattern in relief in embroid-ery, velvet.

Embossd'ells 'English woolen cloth; ob-solete.

Embroideries Various plain woven cot-ton fabrics in England, made of fine

yarn and used for embroidery founda-tion.

Embroidery Originally a needlework ofantique origin, consisting in executingdesigns with thread, yarn or otherflexible material on a textile or leath-er ground. It differs from lace thatwhile embroidery always requires aground to work on, which is essentialpart of the .needlework, lace has nosuch ground or if it is built up onany ground (like the needle lace ona pricked pattern) it is not part ofthe fabric. The largest part of theembroidery now in use is produced bymachinery.

Embroidery Cloth English cambric; usedfor embroidery.

Embroidery Cotton Slack twist two-strand cotton thread; used for em-broidery.

Embroidery Linen Linen fabric woven ofeven, round thread; used for em-broidery.

EMB 60 ES'C

Embroidery Quilt Has large patternsformed by coarse thread on a fine,

plain woven foundation.

Embroidery Silk Loosely twisted silk

yarn composed of a number of un-twisted threads.

Emerizing (Finishing process by whichfilling weaves of cotton, silk or wool-en goods are given a pile effect byscratching them with rapidly revolv-

ing rollers covered with emery.

Emerties See Amertis.

Emery Cloth Strong cotton or linen fab-

ric, coated with powdered emery; usedfor polishing.

Empress ClothDouble faced woolendress goods, made with 2-1 weft twill

face and finely ribbed back.

Empress Gauze iFine, flower figured fab-

ric, made of all silk or silk and linen.

En Couchure Same as Couching.

Enameled Cloth Plain woven, coarse cot-

ton fabric coated with varnish; usedfor upholstery. See American Cloth.

End Another term for warp; used in ex-

pressing the ends in a given space.

Engineer's Cloth A blue cotton fabric in

England, similar to dungaree; usedfor overalls.

English Chintz IStoh century name for

printed fabrics, made of all linen orlinen warp and 'Cotton filling in Eng-land.

English Drawing See Bradford system.

English Embroidery or Eyelet EmbroideryThe pattern is formed of a number

of eyelets, which are embroidered in

buttonhole stitches all around theedges. Comes mostly in white butalso in colors.

English Foot Hosiery with a seam ateach side of the sole.

English Leathei In Austria and Germanya stout cotton or union linen fabric,woven in five-leaf satin weave; usedfor boys' suits.

English Net iMade with hexagonal mesh.

English Point ilSfh century needle-pointlace similar to the Spanish point.

English Yarns Worsted yarns spun in

oil, according to the Bradford system.

Engrelure French term for footing, orthe part of the lace edging which is

sewn to the cloth.

Ensign Cloth In England a plain wovencotton or linen fabric; used for flags.

Entoilage The mesh ground in laces.

Entredeux Lace or embroidery; used asinsertion, being edged on both sideswith some other material.

Entre Large 'Medium width linen in theFrench trade.

Entretela 'Cotton lining in Venezuela.

Enveloppe 'Packing canvas in France.

Envers 'French for the back of the cloth.

Enversin IDoarse all-wool, not fulled,French serge; obsolete.

Eolienne Light glossy dress fabric, madewith fine silk warp and a heavierworsted or cotton filling, formingcross ribs, and dyed in the piece. Orig-inally a very light dress goods, madewith organzine warp and fine, lus-trous worsted filling in different col-ors. It was made in twill weave withthe warp forming little brocaded pat-terns.

Epingle 'French for fine lustrous cordedeffect, either warp or weftwise, in

silk dress goods, often alternated withheavier ribs; also a silk dress goodsmade with such rib effect.

Epingline A warp rifhbed dress goods,made with silk warp and worsted fill-

ing with a pebbled face.

Eponge 'Woven of loop yarn warp andplain filling in plain weave; used for

dressee, etc. Is made of cotton, woolor silk.

Epsom Salt Used to give soft feel andbody to textile fabrics.

Erca In Cuba, fine linen shirting.

Ercildun A very fine, lustrous, soft andelastic wool of pure white color, yield-ed by the e. sheep in Tasmania; usedfor the finest grades of dress fabrics.

Eri or Eria iStrong and white wild silk

from East India and Assam, yieldedby the Attacus ricini; the cocoonscannot be reeled.

Erizo 'Coarse, strong bast fiber, yieldedby a species of the apeiba tree in

Venezuela.

Ermine 'Brown woolen dress fabric fromEngland.

Erskine A Highland tartan, consisting ofthe following colors in a repeat: Widered bar, split in the center with apair of narrow and closely placedgreen lines; a dark green bar, of thesame width as the red, split as thelatter with a pair of red lines.

Eruc A strong fi'ber, yielded by the

Corypha urens in the Philippines;used for cordage.

Escalier 1, ladder tape; 2, lace, made In

ladder effect.

Escamis Stout cotton barchent from theLevant.

Escarimant A much esteemed fabric ofthe Middle Ages; weave and textureunknown.

Escoba Fine, strong bast fiber, yieldedby the sida plant in Venezuela; usedfor ropes.

Escobadura 'Fine and w<hite bast fiber,

yielded by the Pavonia spinifex in

Argentina,Escot 1, a comparatively coarse French

dress goods, made of hard twist wors-ted yarn in serge weave and dyed in

the piece; 2, obsolete; fine Frenchserges, made about 18 inches wide;used for lining.

Escurial 'Spanish needle-point lace, sim-ilar to the Venise; 2, rich design in

trailing and winding pattern; used forlaces and embroideries.

ESK 61 EXT

Eskimo 1, overcoating woven with a five-leaf satin weave on the face and theback or with a twill, showing three-

quarters of the warp on the face; 2,

very thick single cloth of fine wool,made light, soft and fluffy.

Espagnolette Fremch faibnic, originallymade of Spanish merino wool, laterof other carded wool in plain ortwilled weave, finished smooth or withnap raised on either or both sides andmade similar to melton. It was dyedin the piece and used for trousers, etc.

Esparto 'Commercial name for a fine,

transparent and clear leaf filber, yield-ed by the esparto grass in Algiers,Spain, etc.; used for cords, sandals,baskets, also for carpets, etc.

Esperon Obsolete; fine French serge lin-

ing, made 28 inches wide.Espouline Indian shawls, made in four

colors only; obsolete.

Essequibo Cotton Trade name for Bra-zilian cotton.

Estaim Obsolete; French term for hardtwist worsted yarns; used as warpsin rugs or carpets, also for knit goods.

Estamene 1, French all-wool dressserge, finished with a rough face; 2,

an English fabric, made in basketweave of crossbred yarn. The faceraised a little and is given a coarsefinish.

Estamet -Obsolete; light weig"ht Frenchwoolen, made about 43 inches wide.

Estampados Ordinary cotton prints inLatin American countries.

Esterett dSth century woolen fabric in

England.

Estopa Tow in Brazil.

Estopilla In South America, batis{e-likecloth, made of fine linen yarn.

Estrella A crepe-like, plain woven fab-ric, made with silk warp and veryhard spun Botany filling, consistingalternately of two right hand andtwo left hand yarns.

Estremadura 'Six-cord knitting yarn.Etaise Ta.ble linen made in Holland.

Etamine 'Plain woven glossy, thin, lightand open worsted dress goods, similarto bunting; also made of hard spuncotton yarn; it is dyed in the piece.Heavier cotton etamine is used fordrapery.

Etamine a Bluteau Obsolete; all-worstedFrench gauze; used for sifting flour.

Etamine Glacee Made of organzine warpand worsted filling; also known asChaHis.

Etamine du Mans All-wool French eta-mine; obsolete.

Etamine Viree Obsolete; French etamine,having a warp of mixed wool andsilk in a different color from the fill-

ing.

Etamine a Voile Plain woven worstedmousseline in France, mostly blackand white; used for church vestments.

Etching Embroidery Made with blacksilk and water colors on a fine silkground, mostly in outline, in imita-tion of etchings.

Etching Silk Hard spun silk thread;used for embroidering outlines.

Etendelle H]orsehair cloth; used InFrance and Belgium in the pressin*of oil.

Eternelle (French term for the very dura-able torchon laces, made in Saxony.

Ethridge Commercial variety of late

maturing cotton from L/ouisiana, thefine and glossy staple measuring 28-30millimeters.

Etoffe French for cloth.

Etoffe du Pays Coarse homespun ofnatural gray wool.

Etoupiers Cordat French packing can-vas, made of tow.

Etramee A French hemp cloth.

Etshigo Very thin Japanese silk.

Etun In the Bible denotes linen.

Eureka A commercial variety of mediummaturing American Cotton, the strongifine and gloesy staple measuring upto 40 millimeters, forming large bolls;the yield is 28-30 per cent.

Euxinet 'English dress goods of silk andwool; obsolete.

Even Running (Cotton containing fibers of

even length.

Everlasting An all-wool or cotton fillingfabric with fine and very close, almostwaterproof surface, woven in satin

weave; used for shoe tops, gaiters,etc., formerly for suits. It is verydurable. Obsolete term for warpribbed wool cloth; used for women'sshoes.

Ewes' Wool 'Shorn from female sheep.

Examit Said .to be the original Byzan-tine name for Samit (see), a fine sillc

fabric with a six-ply warp. Accord-ing to another interpretation a fine

silk velvet.

Exarentasma A medieval fabric of un-known structure.

Excelsior A commercial variety of Amer-ican cotton, the staple measuring 26-

30 millimeters; the yield is 33-35 percent.

Exhaust Noil Short and hemp, recombedsilk noil in England.

Extra Classical Trade name for the verybest silk yarn, made of the choicestcocoons of the year.

Extra Super A standard grade of ingraincarpet, having 1,000 warp ends in ayard and 13% pairs of filling in aninch.

Extract Style Method of printing textiles,so named after the use of naturalcolor extracts used formerly in this

process. The dyestuffs when appliedare composed of the coloring mattermixed with a mordant. The color is

usually set by steam.

Extract Wool 'Which was regained frommixed rags by treating them with di-luted sulphuric acid which des-troysall vegetable fibers and leaves onlythe wool fttiers.

EXT 62 FAS

Extracting See Carbonizing.

Eyelet Embroidery See English Embroid-ery.

Fabric Manufactured textiles, irrespec-tive of the material made of or theprocess or weave used.

Face That side of the fabric which isintended to be shown while wear-ing.

Face Goods Usually all-wool fabrics; afull dense nap is raised on the faceafter a thorough fulling and is brusheddown, resulting in a smooth face. Doe-skin is such a fabric.

Faced Cloth 'Fabrics which have a sepa-rate set of warp or weft on the wrongside.

Facon General, now obsolete, term forall grades of household and table lin-en made in Caen, France.

Faconne 'French term for figured fabrics.

Factory Cloth Now obsolete term givento the first factory made gray cot-ton muslins in America.

Factory Yarn Term for law count, un-scoured woolen yarn, used in manylocalities for heavy knitted goods forwinter wear.

Fag End 1, untwisted end of a rope; 2,unfinished end of the piece of cloth.

Fagara Wild silk, produced by the atta-cus atlas in India.

Fagoting Fancy way of joining theseams of sheer, light fabrics, produc-ing an openwork, the connectingthread running either in zigzag lineor in ladder effect (French F.) ; inembroidery consists in drawing outsome of the threads and tying thecross threads.

Failine French woolen serge.

Faille .Soft ribbed silk fabric, made inplain weave with wider ribs than thegrosgrain; used for dresses.

Faille de Chine A very rich, soft, all-silk faille.

Fair The best of the American cottonfull grades.

Fake 1, a ply; 2, a single coil of rope innautics.

Falaise French serge.

Falding Coarse English woolen, similarto the frieze; used for clothing andfurniture cover in the 14th century.

Falie Grijn 'Cross ribbed, solid colored,wool camlet; used by the Dutch peas-ant women.

Falkland Islands Somewhat coarsecheviot wool; used for dress goods,knit goods.

Fall Weight Trade term for mediumweight coatings, dress goods, and suit-ings.

Fallen Wool Wool taken from sheepwhich died.

Fallin Obsolete English woolen cloth;see Falding.

Falseh 'Strong, harsh, wiry fiber, yieldedby a species of Grewia in Persia; usedfor ropes, etc.

Famis Silk cloth with gold threads in-

terwoven, made for the Levant inFrance.

Fancies 'Fabrics outside of the staples.

Fancy Back Coatings made with a col-ored pattern, different from the face.

Fancy checks Similar to Scotch plaidpatterns.

Fancy Cloth Generally any cloth wherethrough the warp or filling either in

one or more colors patterns are pro-,duced.

Fancy Line-^Braided cord; used for sashwindows on ships.

Fangchow Very light silk foulard, madein China; is about 22 inches wide.

Fanpak Closely woven soft wool flannelin China.

Fantaisie 1, French for fancy (see); 2, acoarse and inferior grade of silk in

France.

Fantasia 'Dress goods in Italy.

Farasdanga Fine cotton cloth, made onhand looms in India.

Fard 'East Indian printed cotton; usedfor floor covering.

Farmer's Satin A highly finished satin,made with cotton warp and worstedor cotton filling; used for linings. SeeItalian Cloth.

Farquharson A Highland tartan, com-posed as follows, in a repeat: Widedark green bar, one-eighth of whichis taken up by a yellow stripe in thecenter; 'black stripe made as wideas half of the above; two narrow darkblue and black lines follow; *darkblue bar, with a red stripe in themiddle, the latter measuring the samein width as the yellow; repeat group,described between the two * in re-versed order; wide dark green barwith yellow in the center, as de-scribed above is repeated; *blackstripe, half the width of the greenbar; dark blue, somewhat narrowerthan the black; *group of narrowblack, red and black stripes; repeatstripes, described between the last two* in reversed order.

Farrar .See Okra.

Farrell Prolific A commercial variety ofvery prolific American cotton, the sta-

ple measuring 30-35 millimeters; theyield is 28-30 per cent.

Fash In England cloth clippings orfringe.

Fashioned 'Hosiery and underwear, knit-ted flat and shaped by means ofdropped stitches, forming flat edges.

FAS 63

Fast Color which withstands light, wet,etc.

Fast Back^l, name for welts where thewadding filling is more or less inter-woven with the warp; 2, trade termfor quilts, having the stif.c'hing warpinterwoven on the back.

Fast Back Marseilles Bleached cottonquilt, having two sets of warps andtwo sets of fillings, woven plain onthe face and back of the fabric, andhaving a heavy wadding weft be-tween the two cloths. It is wovenin embossed patterns.

Fast Coloi^-A coarse, stout, heavy andwell fulled fabric; used for garmentsfor sailors.

Fast Pile See Lashed Pile.

Fastness 'The property of the dye to re-tain its color when exposed to therays of the sun or subject to wash-ing. The color is considered veryfast, fast, fairly fast or fugitive, ac-cording to the time required (morethan four weeks, more than twoweeks, two weeks, and less than aweek), for fading in southern ex-posure.The fastness to washing is deter-

mined by twisting a white yarn ofcotton and another of wool, togetherwith the dyed skein, which is scouredin a soap bath; if both the liquid andany of the white yarn becomes col-ored the color is fugitive, while if noneof them is tinged the color is fast.

Fathom (Standard measure of length forropes; one F. is six feet.

Fautunn "In Chinese markets a brocadedor cross ribbed faforic, having silk

warp and a heavier worsted filling.

Faveur Narrow colored ribbon in France.Fawn Canton A twilled fabric, made with

cotton warp and wool filling; usedin the manufacture of waterproofcloth.

Fayal Lace Fine hand made lace of aloefibers in Azores.

Fayence Prints Cotton fabrics printedwith indigo paste, which afterward isifixed in an alkaline bath.

Fayetta A fine, thin and soft dress goods,made of organzine warp and finewoolen filling in a close warp plushtwill weave; used for dresses, urribrel-la covers, etc.

Fearnaught >A heavy English cheviotwith a shaggy face, the filling of wihichusually contains shoddy.

Feather Cloth Coating, made by weavingsoft feathers into undyed wool cloth;the filling is made of wool and feath-ers twisted together.

Feather Edge Same as picot.

Featheredge Braid 'Picot braid of whitecotton or linen; used for laces.

Feather stitch iA stitch used in embroid-ery, imitating feather by branchesfrom a main vein.

Fecamp Bleached or gray French linenfabric.

Federitt See Inlet.

Fell In mill parlance that end of the pieceof fabric which has been last woven.

Felling Silk A two-ply silk thread witha left hand twist.

Fellings 'See Jours.

Fellmongering The removal of the woolfrom sheep pelts by any process.

Felt Compact sheet of entangled andmatted fibers of wool, fur, mohair,often mixed with cotton or other fib-

ers which have no felting property.The stock is thoroughly mixed, carded,hardened and finally made into felt

with the aid of moisture, heat andpressure. While felt is usually andoriginally not a woven or knitted fab-ric, it is often made by weaving or

knitting a coarse body, raising a heavynap which is felted afterward. The'finest felts made of fui and mohairare used for hats, the thinnest for

glove linings, while the heavier orcoarser makes are employed for floor

and table covers, saddle linings, in-

sulators, roofing, etc. It is believedthat felt originated with the Sara-cens. See also Needle Felt.

Felting The property of wool fibers orsome of the furs to interlock witheach other if they are rubbed togetherunder pressure and in moist condi-tion while heated. Felting is causedby the serrations on the surface ofthe wool.

Fencing Term in England for mill ends.

Fents Unfinished ends of calicoes or

printed lawns; also short lengths of

cloth or damaged ends.

Feraghan Small Persian rugs of cotton

warp and weft and close and shortwood pile tied in Senna knot. Thedesign consists usually of small fish

in a blue field and trailing vine in

the borders. Many saddlebags arealso made this way.

Fergusson A Highland tartan, made asfollows: Two heavy black stripeswith a still wider dark blue stripe be-tween; a green field, almost as wideas the above three stripes combined.This green field is split in the centerwith a group of black, white andblack lines, the two side green barsthus formed being again split in thecenter by a single narrow red line.

Ferlin Obsolete English woolen cloth.

Ferrandine 'Lightweight, plain wovendress fabric of silk warp and wool orcotton filling, similar to the chalys;obsolete.

Ferret 'Narrow binding tape of cotton,wool or silk.

Ferric Sulphate Used in weighting blackdyed silk.

Ferrous Sulphate Used in indigo andalizarine dyeing, also in dyeing woolor cotton black.

Peru 'Strong bast fiber, yielded by the

cochlospermum in west Africa; usedfor ropes.

Feston Stitch Same as buttonhole stitch.

FIB 64 FIN

Fibei 1. filaments used as raw materialfor textile fabrics, are divided (1),animal fibers, as wool, hair, silk; (i2),

vegetable fibers, as cotton, linen, jute,

hemp, ramie, etc.; (3), mineral fibers,as asbestos; and (4), artificial fibers,as glass, metal threads, various arti-

ficial silks, etc.; 2, yarn, made oftwisted and prepared paper; used for

rugs and mats.

Fiber Silk 'Commercial term for goodquality of artificial silk.

Fibrilia Obsolete term for the fibers andfabrics made from flax, hemp, jute,ramie; used as substitute by mixingthem with wool or cotton.

Fibrilize The process by which the fiber

was separated from the stalk andshortened in length.

Fibronia 'Proprietary name for a fiber

made of a grass; It is carded withshoddy and used for carpets or belt-

ing yarns.Fifth Combing Wool taken from the

thigh.

Figuartoes 'Wool fabric, made in Nor-wich, England, in the 17th century.

Figure The ornamental design on a tex-tile fabric, produced by weaving, dye-ing (resist), printing or pressing.

Figured Textile fabric having a coloreddesign on its face, as compared withplain fabrics.

Figurero A woolen fabric in Englandduring the 17th century.

Figures de Chimay Holland laces.

Figuretta A costly fabric in medievalEngland.

FijiCotton of the Sea Island type, thestaple is of very irregular length, butfine and cohesive. Has large percent-age of unripe fibers.

Fi I 'French name of thread or fVber (silk).

Fil au Chinois Very strong, waxed linenthread in Prance; used for heavy sew-ing.

Fil de Cren A heavily padded cordonnet(see).

Fil d'Epreuve All-flax, medium fineFrench linen with blue and whitechecks or stripes.

Fil de Florence (Silkworm gut). Thesegregation of the silkworm pressedout and used for fish line.

Fil de Japon In France reeled silk, con-taining from 3 to 15 filaments.

Fil Plat Bleached French cotton yarn;used for mending and embroidering.

Fil de Sayette Ply yarn, made of combedwool, also mixed with silk; made intohard twist for various fabrics andslack twist for knitting.

Fil au Tonkinois 'Strong, waxed linenthread; used for the heaviest sewingin France.

Fil de Trace 1, the outlining thread ofthe patterns in applique needlepointlaces; 2, a double thread outlining thedesign of the point lace before maik-ing it.

Filament A single, natural strand of silk.

Filatrice 1, floret silk in France; 2,

French dress fabric of silk warp andfloret silk filling.

Filature 'Silk reeled in factories, on ma-chinery, instead of by hand.

Filet Knotted square net or mesh.Filet de Carnasiere See Macrame.Filet Conte French lace, made by using

a coarse square mesh net for foun-dation and filling out the design in

darning or cloth stitches.

Filet Guipure Lace or embroidery withlarge patterns over a net ground; the

patterns not conforming to the squaremeshes of the ground.

Filet Lace Has a filet foundation withthe pattern formed 'by filling in some

of the squares with darning stitches.

Filigree Point Lace made of gold threadpatterns joined with silk bars.

Filik 1, Oriental rugs made of goat'sfrair; 2, long goat's hair of lightbrown color, in Asia Minor; used forthe pile of rugs in natural color.

Filled Woolen fabrics which have beenweighted with flocks.

Filleting Very heavy, unbleached linen

tape in England.

Filling il, in the United States and Can-ada same as weft; 2, in Englandequivalent to weighting; 3, see Modes.

Filling Reversible Thick, soft, nappedfabric, made of cotton or wool; usedfor bath robes, kimonos, etc. Wovenin twill weave with a different colored

warp and weft, the latter being of a

very slack twist, the face and backbeing reverse of each other.

Filo Silk Two-ply, soft spun silk thread;used for embroidery.

Filoche 1, fabric woven like nets; 2,

plain French serge dress goods of

eight leaves and eight picks in a re-

peat.

Filoselle Soft embroidery thread, made of

silk waste or floret silk.

Filouche In France a thin, sheer cottoncloth of plain weave.

Filum Yarn or thread in old Rome.

Fin Trait 'French sail canvas.

Finastre Very inferior raw silk from Per-sia and Asia Minor.

Fine '1, woolsorting term in the worstedtrade, meaning the best sort of the

fleece; 2, the finest sort of short wooltaken from the skirts (see) of Eng-lish and coarse wools; 3, English andcrossbred wool, taken from the best

part of an extra fine luster fleece;

spins 40s to 44s.

Fine Tew The lint separated from thelong fiber when the flax is dressed;used for small ropes, cords and towcloth.

Finette French cotton lining, made in

serge weave.

Finger Rug English heavy, coarse rugs,made on hand looms, with cut pile.

FIN 65 FLA

Fingering Four-ply woolen or worstedknitting yarn in England; also slacktwist wool yarn for Berlin embroid-ery.

Fingram 'Eighteenth century coarse Eng-lish and Scotch serge.

Finishing The final processes throughwhich most of the fabrics are put inorder to give them certain charac-teristics and to increase their sala-bleness. The finishing process willoften radically change the characterof a woolen (like chinchilla) after it

is taken from the loom, while wors-teds and silks are not changed asfundamentally. The more importantfinishing processes are (several ofthem being usually omitted with thevarious fabrics); perching, burling,mending, bleaching, starching, water-ing, calendering, beetling, scouring,singeing, sizing, weighting, printing,dyeing, waterproofing, felting, crab-bing, tentering, napping, lustering,pressing, mercerizing (see each underown head).Below will be described the finishing

of some of the standard fabrics:1. Velour finish, the fabric is mois-

tened and an erect and loose nap is

raised on the face, then dried andlightly shorn.

2. Saxony finish, the fabric is firstfulled properly, then rolled andstretched, gigged, shorn short, thenbrushed and pressed.

3. Cheviot, the fabric is fulled butslightly, dried, shorn and pressed,showing the pattern of the weaveclearly.

4. Chinchilla, the twilled filling faceis gigged until a full and heavy napis raised which is shorn to the re-quired length: the fabric is thenwhipped, face down, ard run throug'hthe Ch. machine, which forms the napinto nu'bs.

5. Serge finish, the goods are care-fully burled and singed, cralsbed andscoured and shorn, producing a clearface.

6. Melton finish, the goods are fulled,steamed, dyed and shorn and finallylightly brushed.

7. Kersey, after thorough burlingthe goods are fulled, gigged and thenap laid. The fine grade goods arethen steamed and pressed, while thelower grades are given a water finish.

8. Face goods, a very thoroughburling and fulling is followed byraising a dense nap, the goods arethen steamed, the nap laid down asclose as possible and finally pressed.

9. Blanket, if made of wool, thegoods are felted, gigged to dense nap,cut to the required length and bound.Cotton blankets are napped.

10. Poplin, the goods are singed,crabbed, dyed, and shorn.

11. Covert cloth, same finish as facecassimeres.

12. Beaver, the goods are fulled, thelower grades also weighted withflocks, gigged and the nap well laid,then steamed and finally shorn short.

13. Calico, the cloth is singed,bleached, boiled off, and printed.

14. Gingham, is sprinkled, sized,and pressed.

15. Velvet, the loops are cut. thepile brushed, steamed and cut.

Fique Very strong, straight, smoothfiber, yielded by the leaves of theFurcraea gigantea of South America;used for bagging, etc.

Fir Wool iSee Pine Wool.

Fireproof Fabrics Made of asbestos, alsoof other fibers, in the latter case thecloth being rendered fireproof bychemical treatment. Permanent fire-

proofing is obtained by treating thefabric in a solution of sodium stan-nale of 45 degrees Tw. After a thor-ough drying the fabric is treated witha solution of ammonium sulphate of15 degrees Tw. This process was in-vented by Prof. Wm. Henry Perkin.

Fir*t Combing Long wool taken fromthe sides of the fleece.

Fisherman's Lace See Point Pecheur.

Flume Variety of Egyptian flax, yieldscoarse fibers.

Five O'clocks /Fine damask linen table-cloths; used in England.

Fivette -A lightweight French cotton or'woolen lining, woven in diagonaltwill.

Fixing Agents Chemicals which attachthe dyestuffs or the mordants to thefabric.

Flaine Ticking made in France.

Flake Yarn T*wo-ply cotton, wool, or silkyarns, having flakes or nu'bs in a dif-ferent color at certain intervals.

Flamme 1, French for yarns printed withone or more colors after spun; 2, avariety of woolen dress fabrics madein France of printed yarns; 3, in'France a plain woven colored cloth,made of linen warp and cotton fill-

ing.

Flanders Flax Very fine ifiax of longwhite soft fillers, grown in Belgium.

Flanders Serge Seventeenth centuryEnglish worsted fabric.

Flanelle de Chine A plain woven Frenchfabric, made of all-wool and given avery smooth face. It is dyed withindigo in the piece, the selvage beingleft white.

Flanelle de Rouen Obsolete French fab-ric, made of hemp warp and wool fill-

ing, forming various colored crossstripes; used for skirts, house dresses.

Flannel 1, in England grade of shoddy,obtained from flannel; 2, loosely wo-ven woolen lightweight cloth, nappedon one side and used ordinarily forshirting, underwear, etc. It is mostlymade with a two harness loom, but it

can be made in plain or twill

weave; 3, name for sleazy, uncouthlooking fabrics, which are "made" inthe finishing process, by teazling theface and treating the nap; as, for in-

stance, the chinchilla.

FLA 66 FLI

Flannelette Twilled, lightweight wash-able cotton fabric, made of slacktwist single yarns; it is woven in

stripe effects or printed on the faceand has a short nap raised on theback; used for kimonos, house dresses.

Flat Cambric Cheap, plain, woven, piece-dyed cotton fa'bric, finished with aluster and folded in laps.

Flat Fold The way of putting up certainfabrics by rolling them without doub-ling.

Flat Goods Knit goods, made in flat

stitc'h without any ribs or fashioning.

Flat Point Lace Made perfectly flat with-out any padded or raised parts.

Flavet A thinly woven, inferior Englishserge; (see also Lingette).

Flax A slender annual plant, the bastfiber of which is called linen. Theplants are pulled before ripe, retted(submerged in water until the woodyparts of the stalk are decomposed),after which the straw is crushed,broken between rollers, scutched(causing the removal of the woodyparts with revolving blades) andhackled (or drawn through iron

combs). The fiber ranges fromcreamy to greenish or bluish color be-fore bleached.

The most important grades of theflax are: In Russia the motchenetzand slanetz (see each), the first con-taining the following varieties: Po-chocon, Uglitz, Rieff, Jaropol, Ste-purin. The varieties of the slanetzare called Bejetsky (usually best),Krasmoholm, Troer, Kashin, Gospo-sky, Nerechta, Wologda, Jaroslaw,Gresowetz, Kostroma. The flax mar-keted through Riga, Dunabourg, andKowno, is graded K, HK, PK, HPK,SPK, HSPK, ZK, GZK, HZK, RG. TheArchangelsk (Russia) grades for dewretted toales are first, second, third,and fourth crown, and first and sec-ond zabrack. The marks for Dorpatand Pernau (Russia) flax are: IX>E>,

OD, D, HD, R, G. The marks forwater retted flax from Hoffs (Russia)are: HD, PHD, FPHD, SFPHD,XHDX, XRX. The marks for Pskoffare: OD, PWW, OW, O, OO, OOO,PI, PII, PHI. The marks for the flax

from Reval and Dorpat, exported in

bobbins, are: GR, HD, D, OD, OOD.The Petrograd marks are classed,comprising: Fabrichng, Otbornoi, first

crown, second crown; superior siretz,

comprising Polochno, Fabrichng, Ot-bornoi, first crown, second crown;medium siretz; common siretz, com-prising Otbornoi, first crown, secondcrown.The Koenigsberg (Germany) marks

are: FWPCM, FGPOM, WPC1M,LPCM, FPCM, PCM, PI, P2.

In Belgium, the Courtrai flax is

graded I/III, II/III, I/IV, II/IV, I/V,II/V, VI; the Flemish or blue flax

grades are II/IV, I/V, II/V, VI, VII,

VIII, IX. The flax from Fumes andBergues is marked A, B, C, D; fromZealand, IX, VIII, VII, VI; from Fries-

land, D, B, Ex, F, Fx, Fxx, G, Gx,

Gxx, Gxxx; the Walloon flax is mark-ed II, III, and IV. The flax from Ire-land and France is known by thenames of the counties and district it

comes from. Dutch flax is gradedII/IV, I/V, II/V, VI, VII, VIII, IX.

In chemical properties the purebleached linen is similar to cotton, thefollowing tests serving to distinguishunbleached linen from cotton: treatedwith olive oil, linen becomes translu-cent and cotton opaque and white;when burned the ends of the cottonfilbers are tufted, those of the linen

round; treated with concentrated so-lution of caustic soda both cotton andlinen shrink and curl, the former be-

coming grayish, the latter yellow in

color; treated with concentrated sul-

phuric acid and then with dilutedammonia water, linen remains un-changed, while cotton becomes solublein water. In fabrics the tests are:if it is a white fabric a piece is boiledin 50 per cent solution of caustic soda,which renders the cotton pale clear

yellow and the linen dark yellow. Asample of the fabric is washed in asolution of cyanin in alcohol, thenrinsed and after treated with thin so-lution of sulphuric acid, after whichthe linen will become blue, while thecotton stays white. Under the micro-scope the linen fiber discloses regularcylindrical or polygonal cells, withmany transverse joints and a lumenin the center.

Flecked Yarn or cloth with a flaw,caused by a spot of some strange col-

or.

Fleece '1, the entire coat of wool shornfrom the sheep at one time; 2, cotton,socalled, during the process of carding..Before that it is called lap (see), andafter it leaves the card, it is madeup into sliver (see). Called also wefo;

3, in knitted underwear the nap onthe inside.

Fleece Wool All the wool clips after thefirst shearing.

Fleeced, Fleece Lined Knitted fabrics,made with a finer face and a heavierand soft spun back yarn, the latter

being napped in the finishing.

Fleecy HosieryIn England, knitted

goods with looped face and smoothiback.

Flemish Holland Stout, plain woven, un-bleached linen fabric, made in Bel-

gium.Fleur de Soie .High grade French satin,

made in twelve-harness weave.

Fleur Volante iLoops or other ornamentson the outer edge of the cordonnet(see).

Fleuret Obsolete name for fine Rouenlinen.

Fleuron Lightweight French woolen fab-ric, often mixed with silk or linen;obsolete.

Flick In England the nap raised onflannelette and other fabrics.

Flipe <Same as slipe.

Flix Courts A French linen fabric.

FLO 67 FOU

Float 1, flaw in the cloth, caused by loosethreads floating instead of beingbound in the weave; 2, a certainlength of the warp or filling in thefabric, left free between two pointsof binding for the purpose of formingcertain designs.

Floches 'Fine sewing silk in France.

Flocks Very short, unspinna'ble woolfibers, produced either as a waste in

the mill or by cutting up rags, clip-

pings, etc.; used for weighting fab-rics.

Flocked Goods Such woolens or unioncloths, which are weighted by themeans of impregnating flocks (see)into the back of the fabric in orderto increase the weight. This can bedone in dry or wet state.

Floconne 'French for yarn or fabrics

having small flakes; also woolen dressgoods, having the nap raised in thefinishing in various figures, as squares,dots, etc., or twisted into nubs.

Floorcloth In England a coarse and stout,

plain woven hemp or flax fabric, heav-ily coated with varnish; used as in-

expensive floor covering.Flor or Floret Linen An open face cot-

ton or linen canvas, both warp andweft yarns being equally spaced fromeach other.

Florameda A fabric mentioned in 17thcentury English manuscripts, believedto have been woven with flower pat-terns.

FlorenceVery light, plain woven silk

lining, the warps and wefts beingplaced the saime distance apart, madewith single warp. Sometimes mixedwith wool.

Florentine 1, same as denim; 2, twilledsilk dress goods, made plain or in

stripes and patterns; 3, fine, twilled.

English woolen; 4, a twill composedof eight ends and eight picks; usedfor glossy fabrics.

Florentine Lace In the 16th century araised needle-point '.ace made in Flor-ence.

Floret 1, figured wool satin, made with ahigh finish; used in England fordresses; 2, French term for brocadedsilks; 3, yarn made of the best kindof silk waste.

Floretta 1, see Floss Silk; 2, very fine

plain woven bleached Belgian linen.

Florette il, 18th century woolen fabric in

England; 2, same as Floret.

Florida 1, a very fine grade of Sea Islandcotton, having a uniform, long, fineand silky staple; 2, trade name in

Roumania for a printed madras; 3,

in Austria a coarse, bleached, plainwoven cotton fabric, with a heavysize finish; used for stiffener in col-lars, cuffs and shirt bosoms.

Floss Silk -Fine but tangled waste silk,

forming the outside of the cocoon andwhich cannot be reeled; also the yarnmade thereof.

Plots In laces several rows of picots,partly covering each other.

Flouncing Laces and embroideries madeas yard goods intended for flounces ondresses.

Flourishing Thread Lustered linen

thread; used for embroidering.

Flush (Same as Float.

Fly A very short cotton waste; used for

heavy backing yarns.

Fold 1, same as ply (see) in yarn; 2,

layer of cloth; 3, same as to double(see).

Folded Yarn In England yarns composedof single thread plies.

Fond In hand-made laces the ground,over which the patterns are spreadout. It is either a mesh or is madeup of brides (see).

Fond Mirroir Rich French silver or goldbrocade dress goods, made with a taf-

feta foundation, over which the metalwas laid flat, producing a mirror-likeeffect; obsolete.

Fond de Neige A fancy ground in old

laces, consisting of brides with groupsof knots on them.

Fond d'or French term for brocades withgold ground.

Footing 1, the edge of the lace flouncingwhich is seiwn to the fabric; 2, the

repairing of holes in the foot of stock-

ings.

Forbes A Highland tartan, made as fol-

lows: A wide dark green bar, split

in the center by a group of black,white and black lines; black stripe,

measuring half the width of the green;a navy blue bar (as wide as the green),split in the center with a pair of black

stripes, placed close together.

Forest Whites English woolens, seePenistone.

Forest Wool Fibers extracted from pineneedles; used for coarse blankets,mixed with cotton or wool.

Forestieri Various colored, mostly scar-let red, fulled woolens in Egypt.

Forestry Cloth Adopted by the UnitedStates Government for the forestryservice; it is a strong, clear faced,twilled olive drab worsted; comes in

various weights.

Forfars Unbleached coarse and heavylinen, made in England; used for tow-els.

Fossys East Indian cotton cloths.

Fota Thick, strong and durable cottoncloth, made in India; used for gar-ments for native women.

Fotaloongee -Striped East Indian faJbric,

made of bast fibers, mixed with silk.

Fottes East Indian checked and stripedcotton cloths.

Fougeres Various linen and canvascloths in France, made as coarse pack-ing canvas or bleached householdlinen.

Foulard Very light and thin silk fab-ric, woven plain or twilled, printed in

conventional style; used for summerdresses.

FOU FUL

Foulardin In Austria a light, plain wovencotton fabric, starched and highly fin-

ished; used for sleeve lining.

Foulardine Obsolete cotton dress goods,made similar to foulard.

Foule French for fulled fabrics.

Fourre Another French term for mate-lasse (see).

Fourth Combing 'Wool taken from therump of the fleece.

Frailejon White or rust colored woolyfiber taken from the surface of theleaves of the Frailejon in Venezuela,Colombia, and Ecuador.

Frame Tape A stout, half bleached linenor cotton mixed tape in England.

Framework Knitted Fabrics Made fromhorizontally knitted or weft threads in

plain, rib or pearl stitches.

Franella A napped cotton cloth in

Paraguay; canton flannel and coloredand printed flannelets in Chile.

Fraser A Highland tartan with a redground, composed as follows: A groupof two dark green (on the outside)and two dark blue stripes (on theinside), separated from each other bynarrow red lines; a red field made aswide as the above group and split inthe middle by a narrow white line.

Fray Unravel.

Frazadas 'Cotton blankets in Latin-American countries.

French Backed Worsted dress goods,made with a welt backing in satinweave.

French Cambric The finest grade ofcambric.

French Carpet! ng^Same as moccadoes(see).

French Drawing See French System.French Flannel^Soft and very slightly

napped twilled wool fabric, made withstripes, checks or solid colors; usedfor men's and women's wear.

French Foot Hosiery made with a seamin the middle of the sole.

French Knot An embroidery stitch, madeusually with heavy thread, producinga small knot.

French System Used in spinning worste*yarns. The wool is combed dry, thesliver is drawn between rolls, butthe fibers are parallel and not twisteduntil the actual spinning. The yarnis not as smooth as that made accord-ing to the Bradford system (see).

French Yarns Worsted yarns, spun dry,according to the French system (see).

Fribs Short second cuts of wool frommerino fleece.

Frieze A heavy and coarse woolen over-coating, having a nap on the face;often made in brown, gray or greenmixture effect, in plain or twill weave;it is well fulled and has a harsh feel.

The wool is usually coarse and wellmixed with shoddy. The filling is

usually heavier than the warp.

Frieze Flannel Heavy, twilled flannel,made of cotton and wool in mixtureeffect.

Frigidines A French haircloth.

Fringe -Made by a heavy thread or wirebeing placed in the loom a certain dis-tance from the selvage of the cloth,acting as if it was one of the warpthreads catching certain picks. Afterthe cloth is woven, the wire is re-moved and the fringe cut.

Frlquette A machine-made lace, havingfine and clear meshes and made offine thread. It is made as a veil andalso embroidered in a light flower de-sign along the edge.

Frisadoes (Sixteenth century Englishworsted, similar to the -bays.

Frise French for curl pile, or terry.

Frise or Frieze 'Formerly the finest gradeof linen made in Holland. It was verystrong, stout, grained and well bleach-ed; obsolete.

Frisette Fine fabric, the face coveredwith small loops; made of cotton andwool in Holland.

Prison 1, French for the tangled outsidewaste of the silk cocoons; used for

spun silk; 2, an inferior frieze InFrance.

Frisonette A low grade of frison (see).

Frisure 1. core thread, with a gold orsilver thread wound around; used in

passementeries; 2, thin gold or silverwire braid for military uniforms.

Frivol ite (French for tatting.

Prize Holland In the 18th century thefinest grade of holland imported to

England, made one-fourth, one-half,or one yard wide; it was not calen-dered or finished in any way, exceptbleached.

Frizzing Name for the chinchilla finish-

ing process in England.

Frocs Coarse and heavy twilled Frenchwoolen; obsolete.

Frog Ornamental facings, made of braidfor uniforms, pajamas, etc.

Frotte French for toweling.

Fud Waste of the wool carding machine;used mixed with shoddy.

Fukusa A square piece of silk, oftenrichly embroidered or decorated; usedIn Japan to cover boxes containingpresents.

Full Chintz The ground is printed in twoshades of red.

Full Covei Trade term for book muslins,which have the extra weft threadsinserted continuously in the groundweave.

Full Fashioned Knit goods made on themachine flat with dropped stitches atthe selvage, thus conforming to theshape of the body after the seamsare joined together.

Full Gauze Weave having the warpscross other warps in both directions.

Full Regular 'Hosiery and underwearhaving hand knitted seams.

FUL 69 GAU

Fulled Woolen fabric which is nappedand then felted (see under Felt).

Fulpat Commercial term in India for

weak and gummy, immature jute fiber,

cut before flowering; it has a goodcolor.

Fundatum -Believed to have been a goldtissue of the Middle Ages.

Fui 'Name for chenille pile in carpets,etc.

Furies Obsolete printed or hand paintedsilk satin, said to have come fromIndia.

Furniture Cord Ply cord, used for trim-

ming upholstery, the plies usually be-

ing core yarns, covered with silk ormercerized cotton.

Furniture Twill A twilled cotton fabric

in England, usually &4 square; it is

printed with large, bright colored de-

sign and is used for drapery.

Fustian >1, medieval stout and heavyworsted fabric in England; 2, in theISth century a printed fabric in Eng-land, made with linen warp and cot-

ton tilling; 3, a variety of closelywoven and heavy cotton fabrics beingeither cut pile goods or have a stoutweft face. They are woven with oneset of warp and two sets of filling.

They are known as velveteen, swans-down, moleskin, beaverteen, canton, or

diagonal corduroy and imperial. Theyare mostly used for clothes.

Fustian of Naples Fine medieval Englishworsted fabric; used for garments.

Fustic A yellow dyestuff obtained from. the wood of the chiorophora tinotoria

tree in Cuba; formerly used with mor-danting, now largely replaced by other

dyes.

Gabardine Twilled and waterproofedworsted coating, made with fine

diagonal ribs; piece dyed. Also madeof silk or wool, a softer fabric, usedfor dresses.

Gaberum 'An East Indian cotton fabric,made with check patterns.

Gajj East Indian satin of high finish;

used for dresses by the native women.

GalaCoarse cotton cloth; used for serv-ants' clothes in Scotland.

Galashiels Scotch tweeds, made in G.

Galatea a, narrow, solid colored or print-ed washable cotton fabric, woven witha five harness warp face twill, the

warp covering the face; used for

skirts, children's dresses, etc.; 2, Eng-lish shirting calico of good quality,made with equal blue and whitestripes.

Galettame Waste silk, obtained from the

inner skin of the cocoon, which is left

over after the reeling.

Galette Pierced, fuzzy or very thin co-coons; used for waste silk; also thesilk made of such cocoons.

Galettes Lustrous silk taffeta in France,made of hard twist silk waste.

Galgal See Kumbi.

Galiclia Pile cotton carpet, made in In-dia

Gallini Egyptian cotton derived from theSea Island, having a very strong, longstaple of light golden color.

Gallipoli Sort of raw cotton grown in

southern Italy.

Galloon iNarrow tape or binding of cot-

ton, wool or silk, showing usually fan-cy weave; used for trimming dresses,uniforms, also for lacing. The Eng-lish widths are: Twopenny, four-

penny, sixpenny, eightpenny, and ten-

penny, the old penny pieces havingbeen taken as gauge.

Galway 1, coarse, thick, scarlet coating,made in Ireland of Irish wools; 2, alsoa thick, coarse red flannel.

Gambiei A fast brown dye, obtainedfrom the leaves, flowers, and wood of

various acacia trees in India, mar-keted as a dark colored paste.

Gambo Hemp See Ambari Hemp.Gambroon '1, strong, light, twilled union

linen or union worsted; used for sum-mer garments; a men's overcoating,called G., originated in England in the19th century; made with ply yarn,composed of cotton and worstedstrands; 2, a twilled linen lining.

Gamelotte Fiber yielded by the Fim-bristylis complanata in Ceylon; usedfor ropes and cordage.

Gammadion Byzantine silk or gold cloth,

iflgured with Greek crosses.

Ganse 'French for round or ridged sou-tache, or braid of silk, gold or silver.

Garber Commercial variety of uplandAmerican cotton from Alabama, the

staple measuring 18-22 millimeters;the yield is atout 34 per cent.

Gare Glossy, hair-like fibers grown onthe legs of the sheep; they look andbehave like kemp.

Garnetting Process to recover fibers (forthe purpose of re-manufacturingthem) from rags, clippings, etc., wherethey are mixed with other fibers. Therecovery is done by means of chemi-cals which leave the desired fibers

intact, but destroy all the other com-ponent fibers.

Garniture 'French for trimming.

Gassed 'Yarn or fabric, which underwentthe gassing process.

Gassing <A process by which the loosethreads are removed from the yarnor the cloth by passing it over gasflames.

Gattar 'East Indian satin, made with silk

warp and cotton filling.

Gatti East Indian cotton fabric with dia-mond patterns.

Gaudivi Coarse Bast Indian calico.

GAU 70 GER

Gaufrer French for pressing various em-bossed patterns on fabrics with hotcalenders.

Gauge In knit goods it determines thecloseness of the wales and the fine-

ness of the fabric. It is expressedvariously, by the number of the nee-dles in one and one-half inches or in

one inch.

Gaunt Medieval woolen fabric, made in

Ghent, Belgium.Gauze I, a sheer and usually light woven

fabric, mostly of cotton or silk, in

which some of the warp ends areinterlaced with each other. See plaingauze, full gauze, and leno; 2, verysheer knitted fabrics.

Gauze Flannel Very light, striped shirt-

ing flannel, having silk warp.

Gaws In Scotland term denoting thin

places in the cloth.

Gaze Barege Very light dress goods,made of silk warp and wool filling or

of all wool. It is often printed.

Gaze a Bluter Very fine and light silk

gauze; used for sifting flour.

Gaze Brillantine Very light, French silk

dress goods, with a high luster.

Gaze Cristal Obsolete very light Frenchdress goods, made with silk warp andhaving small bright and dull spots,

alternating on the face.

Gaze do Fil Obsolete French gauze, madeof linen and given a light starch fin-

ish. It was usually striped.

Gaze Filoche Very light, French silk leno

dress goods; obsolete.

Gaze Fond Filoche 'An all-silk Frenchgauze, made with organzine warp andgrege filling, forming transversal bars

by grouping several threads; obsolete.

Gaze d'ltalie Obsolete French gauze,made of natural silk yarn.

Gaze Lisse French gauze, very light andsheer, made of natural silk yarn.

Gaze 'Marabout 1, very light, sheerFrench gauze, made of natural silk;

2, a pile faibric, made with very short

stripes of plush, alternating in three

colors, over a thin gauze foundation;msed as dress fabric; obsolete.

Gaze Milanaise Light, sheer fabric, hav-ing equal number of warp and filling

ends in a square inch. It is made of

socalled "milanaise" yarn (see).

Gaze Ondee Very light dress goods or

trimming fabric, made of organzinewarp and filling of "ondee" silk.

Gaze de Paris Very light French silk

dress goods, made of fine organzinewarp and trame filling.

Gaze Perron Obsolete French silk leno,

forming borders on dress goods.

Gaze Platree iStriped French gauze, madeof yellow silk and given a light starchfinish, obsolete.

Gaze Tour Anglais French for leno.

Gazi Coarse and heavy cotton cloth, madein East India; used for winter clothingby the poorer classes; said to haveoriginated in prehistoric times.

Gazzatum 'Fine and sheer silk or linengauze of the Middle Ages, said tohave originated in Gaza, Asia.

Gebanga Leaf fiber yielded by theCorypha gebanga, a palm in Java;used for cloth, nets, ropes and bags.

Genappe Ply and hard twist gassedyarn, made of worsted, mohair or al-paca, often mixed with silk; used forfringes, etc.

Genapping Process of gassing worstedyarns.

Generos 'Bleached cotton sheetings inLatin-America.

Generos Crudos General trade term forgray cotton goods in Latin-America.

Geneva Embroidery 'Made by sewing vel-vet bands to form checks on coarsecanvas foundation and filling out thesquare with colored silk or wool.

Genghis Rugs Made by the nomad Turk-mans west of Persia. They aresmall, heavy, all-wool rugs, the warpmade sometimes of goat's hair, thelong loose pile is tied in Ghiordesknot. The design shows crude geo-metrical patterns in which white col-or is used extensively. The sides arefinished with selvage and the endswith selvage and fringe.

Genoa In England the one-and-two twillused in various heavy materials.

Genoa Embroidery The patterns areworked with a corded outline overfine muslin, this being cut away frombetween the patterns.

Genoa Lace 1, imitation Cyprus lace of

gold, now obsolete; 2, fine bobbinmade collars, handkerchiefs and fichusmade in the 17th century; 3, see alsoMacrame.

Genoa Velvet 1, very fine thick, all-silk

velvet, having large patterns; madein Genoa, Italy, centuries ago; 2, aweft pile cotton velvet, having aone-and-'tiwo twill ground.

Georgia Prolific Commercial varieties ofshort staple upland cotton from Geor-gia.

Georgienne ^French silk dress goods,made with ply warp. There are 10

or 16 leaves and 10 or 16 fillings in arepeat.

German Prints IMedium or coarse cottonprint goods in South Africa, especiallyin blue with white patterns and a

good finish.

German Stitch in embroidery used wherethe foundation can be exposed; it is

composed .of tapestry and tent stitchesalternating parallel with part of theground between them.

German Serge Known in England in the18th century, made with worsted warpand woolen filling.

German Wool See Berlin Wool.

Germantown Yarn 'Thick, slack twistwoolen yarn, made four-ply and usedfor hand knitting and other fancywork, made originally in Germantown,Pa., U. S. A.

GER GNA

Germuset Damask made in Asia Minorwith cotton and silk warp and colored

patterns.

Gerras or Garras Strong East Indian cot-

ton cloth; used for the household;obsolete.

Getee See Jetee.

Ghabrum East Indian checked cottoncloth.

Ghagi Highly finished East Indian silk

satin; used for dresses by the nativewomen.

Gharbasti East Indian fabric, made of

cotton warp and wild silk filling.

Ghent Lace Narrow bobbin lace, similarto Valenciennes, the threads of the

square mesh ground being twisted twoand one-half times.

Gherad 'Washable, white East Indian silk

fabric.

Ghetee .East Indian bleached cottoncloth, gassed and given a high finish.

Ghilam Silk cloth, made in Nanking.('See GiMiam.)

Ghiordes Knot In Oriental rugs the endsof the hand knotted pile alternate withevery two threads of the warp. Thisknotting- produces less knots to the

square inch than the Senna knotting(see).

Ghiordes Rugs 'Made in Asia Minor. Theantique G. rugs were made of woolor silk in very fine weave and de-

sign. The close short pile is tied in

Ghiordes knot. The design is usuallythat of a prayer rug. The modern G.

rugs are large and much inferior, con-tain much cotton. The pile is very longand loose. The patterns and colors

are varied and often harsh.

Gigging Process of napping the fabric.

Gilan A grade of Persian raw silk.

Gilham A 'Chinese silk dress goods.

Ciller Line spun of horsehair.

Gimian 'Fine velvet rugs, made in AsiaMinor.

Gimp Yarn made of silk cover over acotton or wire core; used for trim-

mings, embroidery, laces, etc.

Gimp Yarn 1, twisted of a hard spun anda soft spun strand; 2, English termfor fancy core yarns.

Ginestra General term in Italy for sev-eral fibrous grass-like plants; usedfor oakum, tow or coarse fa/brics.

Ginestra Cloth 'Coarse, homespun fabric,made of the fibers of the Spanishbroom by Italian peasants.

Gingas Obsolete French linen, madeabout 27 inches wide, with blue andwhite checks; used for trousers for

sailors.

Gingham Lightweight, washable, stout,all cotton fabric, woven in yarn dyedstripes, checks or plaid. The commongingham is woven in plain weave, fin-

ished with starch sizing; used for

dresses. The madras gingham is madeof finer count of yarn and a largernumber of colors is used in the samepattern than in the staple ginghamand is woven in various weaves; used

for shirts, shirtwaists, etc. Thezephyr gingham, a softer and lighterdress fabric than the madras ging-ham, is executed in a great varietyof fancy colored effects in stripes,cords, checks, and plaids in plain ortwill weave.

Ginghamet Cotton muslin with stripedor figured patterns.

Gingeras 'An East Indian silk cloth.

Giselle^A sheer fabric in France, woven ofworsted yarn.

Glace 1, French for glossy, lustrous andshot effect; 2, dress goods, made offine and well stretched cotton warpand mohair filling in plain colors orfigured.

Glangorra All-wool English homespun,impregnated with antiseptics, claimedto resist disease germs.

Glanzstoff German copyrighted name foran artificial silk.

Glass Cloth Fine, loosely woven Englishlinen with blue or red warp stripes;used for the household, embroidery,etc.

Glass Yarn Very fine glass filaments,made up into braids, etc.

Glauber Salt Used in dyeing wool, as it

increases the affinity of the fiber forthe dyes.

Glaze The smooth polish given to theface of the cloth by the friction witha heated calender.

Glen Checks or Glen Urquhardt Original-ly Scotch cheviots and homespuns,made in combination of two checks of

different eizes, having an equal numberof threads in each size. The checksare usually only in two colors, often

having additional colored ornamentalthreads. The fabric is made now in

woolens and worsteds for men's wear.

Glengarry All-wool, mottled Englishtweed.

Gloria A thin and very closely wovenfabric, made with silk warp and wors-ted or cotton filling in a three harness

warp face twill weave; it ie dyed In

the piece, and used for umbrella cover-

ing, also dress goods.

Glorietta A lighter grade of gloria (see),

made of cotton.

Gloss The natural or imparted luster of

fabrics.

Glossaret English dress goods of fine

wool and silk; obsolete.

Glossop Plain woven bleached cotton

fabric, made in England in pieces 50

yards long and one yard wide, with

76 ends and 88 picks in a square inch;

used for calicoes.

Glovers' Wool 'Which was removed withlime from the skin of slaughteredsheep.

Gnafi Very fine mat, made of the leaves

of the pandanus; used for garmentsin Tonga Islands.

GOA 72 GRA

Goats' Hair Some of them, like the cash-mere, are among the finest fibers andused for the costliest fabrics; themohair is yielded by the Angora goat;the alpaca is taken from a Peruviangoat; common goats' hair is coarse,thick, does not felt well and is usedfor coarser rugs and fabrics.

Gobelin 1, a tapestry faibric, made of woolor silk, the filling entirely covering theclosely set warp threads (which formtine ribs) and show various designswith human animal floral, etc., figures.The genuine G. is made by hand withthe use of needles or small, flat shut-tles, the different colored yarns reach-ing only as far as there is call forthem in the design, instead of ex-tending from selvage to selvage. Thefabric is free of all nap or nubs andthe pattern is shown in its complete-ness, but reversed, on the back. TheG. was invented by a man of thatname in Paris in the 15th century,and the factory purchased from hisdescendants by the government ofLouis XIV. This factory still turnsout the finest hand-made G.; 2, aloom woven fabric, made with heavywarp and fine filling, printed after-wards to imitate genuine G.; used for

curtains, hangings, and drapery; 3,

an obsolete silk and wool dress fab-ric with pastel colored brocaded fig-ures.

Gobelin Stitch or Tapestry Stitch UsedIn gobelins and embroideries. Thestraight stitches are passing acrossand over a padding of 'braid, thus be-

ing raised.

Goghari Variety of raw cotton grown in

Baroda, India. The staple is white,.wooly.

Gold Dust or Tennessee Gold Dust Anearly maturing commercial variety of

very prolific upland cotton, the staple,

measuring 25-i2'8 millimeters, formssmall bolls; yield of lint is 32-34 percent. Also called King.

Golden Moss 'Trade name for a yellow-ish, curly and soft fiber, yielded bythe leaf stalks of the tree fern in

China; used for stuffing.

Golf Cloth Double faced woolen over-coating, the two sides being different

in color and pattern.

Golf Hose Heavyweight wool stockings,made with fancy patterns at the top.

Golgas Two faced printed flannel.

Gombo Name in France for the okra(see).

Gomuti -Dark colored, strong fibers,

yielded by the ibase of the leaves of

the sago palm in Malacca; used for

cordage.

Good Middling 'Full cotton grade. SeeCotton.

Good Ordinary (Full cotton grade. SeeCotton.

Goodzi iCoarse East Indian cotton cloth.

Goolbuti Coarse Bast Indian printed cot-

ton cloth; used for dresses by the

natives.

Gordon A Highland tartan, made as fol-lows in a repeat: Dark green bar,split in the middle with a group ofblack, yellow and black lines; * blackstripe, half the width of the greenbar; blue line, black line, blue line,black line;

* blue stripe, half thewidth of the green; repeat group des-cribed between the two *, in a re-versed order.

Gordon Cord In England, a twilled cordweave.

Gorevan Rugs Fine Persian rugs of me-dium size, made with cotton warp,the close wool pile is tied in Ghiordesknot. The design is usually a centermedallion with curved outlines on acream colored field.

Gorgoran iHeavy East Indian silk cloth,having stripes woven in two kinds ofweaves; now obsolete.

Gorilla Yarn iFancy thick nu'b yarn.

Gospodsky Trade term in Russia for agrade of carefully cultivated, rettedand scutched flax.

Gossamer 1, fine silk gauze; used forveils; 2, light silk fabric waterproofedand used for wraps.

Gossypium Generic scientific name forcottons.

Gothrough <A machine-made lace.

Gouzlieh In Turkey a striped, heavy cot-ton shirting, with small dobby design,or twilled; used for long outer robes;see also cheviot.

Governo Sort of raw cotton from Brazil.

Goza Variety of raw cotton from Af-ghanistan. The staple is grayish andharsh.

Grades Classes into which cotton, wooland other fibers are classified accord-

ing to length, evenness, strength, col-

or, etc., of the fiber. For the grades,see under the various 'fibers (Cotton,Wool, Flax, Silk, etc.).

Grading 'The classification of cotton,wool and other fibers according to the

strength, length, evenness, *etc., of

the staple.

Graham A Highland tartan, one repeatmade as follows: Dark green bar witha narrow, pale blue stripe near the

edge; black stripe, measuring one-third of the green bar; navy blue bar,as wide as green bar and split in thecenter with a black stripe as wide asthe pale (blue; black stripe, measuringone-third of the green bar.

Graham of Menteith A Highland tartan,

composed of green bars, split bywhite lines, running over a black andblue ground.

Grain A system in some parts of Amer-ica for the measuring of woolen yarns,the unit of the measure being a yarn20 yards long weighing one grain.

GRA 73 GRI

Grain d'Orge 1, fine, bleached and fig-ured French linen; obsolete. 2, solidcolored French serge dress fabric,made with eight leaves and six* picksin a repeat; 3, a very strong durable,twilled woolen cloth in France, orig-inally made with designs imitatingseeds, hence the name. It is dyed in

the piece.

Grain de Poudre Fulled French woolencloth with very light nap; obsolete.

Grain de Poule^French serge dress goods,having eight leaves and six picks in arepeat.

Grains Grossiers (Coarse French ticking.

Grammont Originally a white Frenchbobbin lace, later black silk lace re-sembling the Chantilly but of inferior

quality; now obsolete.

Grand Lez All-wool, white army coatingin France.

Grand Lion 'Figured table linen, made inFrance.

Grand-caen Obsolete French linen, madeof hard spun flax or hemp thread in

plain weave or small dobby design.

Grande Rose 'Fine, bleached and figuredFrench damask linen; obsolete.

Grande Venise Very fine damask tablelinen having large flowers for design,made in France and Holland.

Grandine 18th century woolen fabric in

England.

Grandrelle 1, a ply yarn spun of strandsof different colors. -2, cotton shirting,made in warp satin weave. The two-ply warp contains different coloredstrand.

Grandrill or Grandurel See Grandrelle.

Granite An irregular, mottled and peb-bled effect in the weave, produced byan irregular wide twill.

Granite Cloth Obsolete; fulled Englishwoolen dress goods, producing agranit-like grain by the warp or thefilling.

Grant A Highland tartan with a redground, the repeat made as follows:Wide red field, split by two pairs ofnarrow dark blue lines; 'narro'w paleblue and narrow red lines of samewidth as blues; dark blue stripe, threetimes as wide as narrow 'blue lines;* dark green field of same width asred field, with red, green, red lines(of same width as narrow blue lines)at each side, and red, blue, red, blue,red lines (of same width as narrowblue stripes) in the middle; repeatgroup described between the two *,

in reversed order.

Grass Cloth Is made of fine ramie inChina; used in natural brown,bleached white or dyed colors; usedfor summer clothing or drawn work.It is a loom-finished fabric, wovenplain on hand looms in narrow widths.

Gratel Twilled, colored linen cloth, madein Germany.

Gray I'nbleached and undyed cotton orlinen fabric.

Gray Wash A process in the bleachingof cotton piece goods, consisting ofsoaking the fabric in water and keep-ing it wet for a couple of hours.

Grayson A commercial variety of pro-lific and early ripening upland cotton,the staple measuring 23-25 millimet-ers; the yield is 34-i36 per cent.

Grease Dyeing (Process used in dyeingserges and cotton warp woolen clothswithout scouring the first.

Grebe Cloth iLong napped cotton cloth;used for underwear.

Grecian d, name, for a huckaback weave;used for coarse towels; 2, woven quilt,made of bleached ply yarn of lowcount for warp and filling. The pat-tern being geometrical diapers.

Greek Lace (Cut or drawn work embel-lished with various stitches or addi-tions of needle-point lace; called alsoReticella.

Green Linen Trade term for linen clothwoven of unbleached or "green" yarn.

Green Yarn Trade term for undressedjute or unbleached linen yarn.

Grege Trade term for raw silk which Is

reeled from the cocoons.

Grege Yarn 'Strong yarn, made of wooland silk.

Grenada 1, a variety of West Indian rawcotton. 2, light fabric, made withblack cotton warp and mohair or al-

paca filling in a five-leaf weft satinweave.

Grenade 'French table linen, made in

plain weave or with small dobby de-sign; obsolete. 2, a fine fabric, madein France of wool and silk; used fortable cover.

Grenadine 1, French serge dress goods,made with eight leaves and four picksin a repeat; 2, fine, open light dressfabric, made of silk or wool, mixedwith cotton and having more or less

elaborate warp stripes; 3, the finest

grade of stout, hard-twist silk cord,made of several strands twisted to-

gether; used for laces; 4, a tabledamask linen in France similar to theGrenade. 5, a black silk lace worn in

France during the 18th century.

Grenadine Crepon (All-wool black dressgoods, having open check patterns andrilbs.

Griffin 'Commercial variety of cottonfrom America, yielding the finest andlongest staple known; the bolls arelarge, yielding 28-<2>9 per cent lint.

Grin A flaw in the cloth which resultsfrom the warp rib showing throughthe covering threads.

Gris Gray cotton goods in the Philip-pines.

Gris fer Bleute French army cloth; usedifor coats.

Gris- brun (French military cloth, madeabout 48 inches wide after fulling;made of long staple wool, one-thirdwhite and two-thirds black wool, in

natural color, being mixed.

GRI GUA

Grisaille 1, French for gray mixture(pepper and salt) effects; 2, plainwoven French dress goods, made witha black and white printed warp andworsted filling.

Grisette Originally light, gray coloreddress goods, made in France of mix-ture of silk, cotton and wool, or of all

wool, and used for garments by thelower classes. Later made in all

colors and in very good qualities, sim-ilar to etamines. G. is the originalbut obsolete name for a strong, wooletamine.

Grist In Scotland, the standard size for

ropes, meaning one inch diameter andthree strands, each of them twistedtogether of 20 yarns.

GrittyWool with a dry and hard feel,

owing to the presence of sand.

Grog^English technical term for any fab-rics woven ends together, irrespectiveof the construction of the fabric.

Grogram Coarse, loosely woven and stif-

ened diagonal silk or mohair fabricwith a thick weft; used for cloaks;originally from Scotland; now obso-lete.

Groningen 'Pale colored waiter retted flax,from Northern Holland.

Gros, Grosse French for stout, thick fab-rics. Also name for large variety ofcross ribbed fabrics.

Gros d'Afrique Plain woven, all-silkdress goods. The warp consists of

single threads of ecru silk and doubleor triple strands of boiled silk. It is

double faced with a velvety, crossribbed effect.

Gros d'Afrique Corde Double faced plainwoven dress goods, made of two silk

warps, one being a single thread ofecru silk. The other double or triplestrand of boiled silk. The filling is

of heavy, loosely twisted cotton yarn.The effect is heavy, velvety crossribs.

Gros d'Alger (French silk fabric, madewith two sets of warps; it has crossribs.

Gros de Berlin Cross ribbed French silk

fabric, made with two sets of warps;also made of alpaca.

Gros de Chine Cross ribbed French silk

fabric, made with two sets of warpand heavy filling.

Gros d'Ete iSilk fabric, with with two setsof warps. It has cross ribs.

Gros Forts 'Strong, stout French linen;used in upholstery.

Gros Grain Ribbon or dress goods, wov-en plain with very fine silk warp anda heavier cotton filling, producingcross ribs, which are heavier thanthose of the poplin tout lighter thanfaille.

Gros Grain Satin Bich, crose rit>bed

French dress goods, made of heavy,pink filling and two sets of fine silk

warp, one set being white, the otherpink, forming roses in white fields;obsolete.

Gros des Indes Plain woven, all-silkdress goods, made with two warps,one single, the other double or triple,and two fillings, one very fine, theother reeled from eight to 10 naturalstrands, resulting in a cross-ribbedeffect.

Gros de Londres Glossy silk fabric withfine flat cross ribs, lighter than faille;the filling is not beaten -up tight; usedfor dresses.

Gros de Lyon Cross ribbed French silk

fabric, made with a heavy filling andtwo sets of warps, one containing one-third, the other two-thirds of the warpends.

Gros de Messine Silk dress goods withfine ribs and organzine warp, whichforms the face.

Gros de Naples Plain woven silk fabricof Italian origin, made with ply warpof organzine and a heavier two-ply(filling, forming cross ribs; used forcoats, hats, etc.

Gros d'Oran iFrench silk brocade; usedfor dresses.

Gros d'Orleans Twilled ribbed fabric,made with two sets of filling, one be-ing of the same color as the warp andthe other a glazed yarn.

Gros de Suez Finely ribbed silk lining forhats.

Gros de Suisse IFrench silk fabric, hav-ing cross ribs on the face. It is madewith two sets of warps, and heaviercotton filling in plain weave.

Gros de Tours 1. Jacquard figured cottonibedspreads in Argentine; '2, .plainwoven cross ribbed French fabric,made of silk and other materials, theribs being formed by two picks, thewarp having two or three plies.

Grosse Chainette Solid colored plainFrench serge, made with eight leavesand six picks in a repeat.

Grosse Cote Solid colored plain Frenchserge, having eight leaves and eightpicks in a repeat.

Grosse Draperie French term for all

woolen fabrics which are felted orshrunk, irrespective of the fineness,weave or other characteristics.

Grosse Grenadine French serge, madewith 12 leaves and four picks.

Ground 'See Fond.Gru Gru Very fine and soft fiber, yield-

ed by the leaves of the palm of samename in the West Indies.

Guana 1, silky, yellowish seed hair of theBombax tree in Cuba; 2, fabric, madeof the bark of the lace tree InJamaica.

Guaxima Very strong fiber, yielded bythe Urena lobata in Brazil; oised foribags, ropes.

Guaxinduba tCloth-likc? bast of a Bra-zilian tree; used for garments by thenative tribes.

Guayabera Catalana Name for Spanishstripes in Cuba.

Guayanilla Variety of white, lustrous andstrong raw cotton from the WestIndies.

CUE 75 HAI

Guembipi Fiber yielded by the stem of aspecies of Philodendron in Brazil;used for ropes; 2. a dark colored, verystrong and durable bark fiber, yieldedby a creeper of the Aroideae familyin Paraguay; it will not rot; used forropes.

Guendje 'See Genghis rugs.Guerley An East Indian calico.

Gueuse 1, cheap and coarse French bob-bin lace, similar to the torchon (see);called also beggar's lace (see); 2, alightweight, all-wool inferior cam-let; made in France and Holland; ob-solete.

Guibert Stout bleached French linenshirting.

Guibray In France, a thick cotton yarn;used for wicks.

Guimhas Cotton or woolen ribbons inL<atin America.

Guimp 1, in laces a heavy thread, placedon the edge of the sprigs; 2, the de-sign or pattern of the lace.

Guinea 1. various calicoes, made in Eng-land for the African trade; 2, stoutcotton cloths from the East, dyedblue; originally from India.

Guinea Cloth A soft, napped cottonfabric of England, woven with twosets of warp, about a yard wide anddyed indigo blue. It is sold in theWest African markets.

Guingan Indian fabric, made of silkmixed with bast fibers. Original namefor gingham.

Guinget 1, light French camelot; 2,coarse French hemp canvas.

Guipure 1, originally gold and silverlace made with the bobbins or theneedle, the patterns being formed byheavy cords padded with parchment(called cartisane) or by a thick threadit was called also parchment lace;2. tape laces in the 16th and 17thcentury with the outline of the pat-terns formed of needle-point or bob-bin made tape over a coarse roundmeshed ground, occasionally orna-mented with brides (see); 3, at thepresent laces with large patternswithout any brides or mesh ground arecalled guipures.

Guipure D'Art Same as Filet Erode.Guipure de Flandres Old Flanders bob-

bin lace with raised .patterns.

Guipure Renaissance Embroidery andapplique work, composed of cheesecloth, cord and sewing silk; used formats, etc.

Gulbani A very light and transparentEast Indian cloth, made of silk, in-terwoven with gold thread.

Gulf General trade name for a variety ofraw cotton grown in the Gulf states,and the Mississippi river basin, thestaple being generally about 1 1-16inch long and of a fairly white col-or.

Gulnagai Fine, plain cotton muslin ofIndia.

Gum G. Tragacanth is used in finishingsilk. G. Arabic in calico and silkprinting.

Gun Club Checks Woolen or worstedfabric for men's or women's wear,the pattern consisting of three colors,which form small checks within largerchecks. The checks are much smallerin men's wear than in women's weargoods.

Gunn 1, a commercial variety of shortstaple upland cotton from the Miss-issippi; 2, a Highland tartan, the re-peat made as follows: wide, dark greenbar, split in the middle by a singlenarrow red stripe; black stripe, halfthe width of the green; very finegreen line; navy blue bar, same widthas green bar, split in the middle bya very fine green line; another veryfine green line; black stripe, measur-ing half the width of the green bar.

Gunny Very coarse and open, plainwoven bagging, made of jute, alsoof hemp.

Gur or Gurra An East Indian coarsewhite muslin.

Guttar. 'East Indian satin, made withsilk face and cotton back.

Guzieh An inferior, plain woven EastIndian cotton cloth.

Gypsum Used for weighting and dress-ing cotton goods.

Gypsy Cloth Same as flannelette.

H

Haberjet Coarse, medieval woolen broad-cloth, made in England; said to havebeen worn by the monks.

Habit Cloth Very fine English nappedwoolen cloth for men's and women'swear, made usually in dark blue, blackand other dark colors.

Habutae A very soft, lightweight butclose woven, very brilliant Japanesesilk fabric, originally woven in handlooms, usually made in plain weavewith fine ribs. The warp is a loosetwist yarn, having a six-grege corewound around spirally "with twothreads, the filling is reeled in nativefashion. Both the warp and fillingare gummed before weaving, the gumbeing boiled off afterwards.

Hackling Process of drawing the flax'fibers (previously completely freedfrom the woody matter) several timesthrough iron combe, each time a finercomb being used. This process di-vides the flax into several grades ac-cording to fineness.

Haddat Square printed cotton cloth;used as head covering in Asia Minor.

Hadjai A hand-spun gold thread in

India, used for embroidery.

Haining WoolA Chinese fine grade car-pet wool.

Hairas Yarn Made of coarse Orientalwool, has little lustre.

HAI HAR

Hairbine An 18th century Englishwoolen fabric.

Haircloth 'Made of cotton, worsted orlinen warp and a weft consisting of asingle hair of the horse's mane or tail

which does not form a continuousyarn and is not twisted. The fabricis made as wide as the length of thehorse hair. It is woven in plain orsatin weave and is used for interlin-

ing, stiffener and cover for uphol-stered seats. 2, an imitation of thereal horsehair cloth is made by usinghard-spun cotton yarn entirely, whichis heavily sized to give stiffness. Thisfabric is used as dress interlining.

Haircord (English drese muslin made withthick warp cords; also a bleachedEnglish cotton fabric with coloredwarp cords.

Hair Line Woolen or worsted dress goodsor men's wear, made with very finecontinuous stripes, produced by singlewarp yarns crossed by a filling of thesame color. The fabric is given aclear finish; 2, fishing line made ofhorsehair.

Hair Net Made of silk or human hairwith large mesh; used to prevent thehair getting disarranged.

Haitien Plain woven silk dress fabric,made with fine warp and heavierfiliing, alternately in white and colored

p.icks.

Hakir 'Strong warp striped cloth in EastIndia, made with silk warp and cot-ton filling.

Hakistery >Black and white ground prints,used in Pereia for clothing.

Hala Native name for the Pandanus in

-the Pacific Islands.

Half Blood American designation of woolcompared in fineness to the full blood-ed merino as standard.

Half Damask iMade in England of silk

and cotton or silk and wool.

Half Silks Silk fabrics made partly (warpor filling) of cotton.

Haifa Native Algerian name for esparto.

Halfbacks Woolens partly made like

backed goods.Mali Turkish name for large size Orien-

tal floor carpets.Hal ina Coarse, checked woolen cloth with

long hair on the right side, made in

Austria.

Hallencourt Twilled French table linen.

Halles Crues Strong unbleached linenmade in France.

Hailing Antiquated English name for

hanging drapery.

Halluin Coarse serge used by the Frencharmy.

Hamadan Persian rugs made of cottonweb and close wool pile, more or less

mixed with camels' hair and tied in

Ghiordes knot. The design consistsof a center medallion and corner

spaces on a field of yellow or brownground, together wiih floral patternsin blue and red.

Hamamlik Turkish name for Orientalbath rugs, usually square.

Hamas Stout, bleached East Indian cot-ton cloth; obsolete.

Hambourgeoise French silk dress goodsof the 18th century. It had a taf-feta foundation with napped patterns;2, a French double-faced silk fabricof the 19th century, made with stripes.

Hamburg Point Drawn work ornamentedwith colored silk thread.

Hamburg Wool Glossy embroidery woolyarn in England.

Hamburgo Americano Name for un-bleached cotton sheeting in the CanaryIslands.

Hamidieh Fabric made of silk and cot-ton in Syria.

Hamilton Lace Coarse Scotch bobbinlace showing lozenge patterns; nowobsolete.

Hammock Cloth Strong, soft cloth, usual-ly woven of all cotton with brightcolored warp in plain or fancy weave.Used for hammocks, drapery, etc.

Hamouli 'Raw cotton formerly grown in

Egypt; now little cultivated.

Hanabishi A Japanese silk fabric withgold brocaded diaper pattern.

Hancaatjes White East Indian muslin,obsolete.

Handewarpes Colored English woolenfabric of the 16th century.

Handle The various characteristics, aselasticity, fineness, softness, etc., of thefibers and fabrics felt to the touch.

Hank Unit of measuring yarn; silk hankbeing 1,000 yards; worsted hank 560yards long; coition hank 840 yards;woolen skein 1,520 yards; linen andjute 3,600 yards.

Hanolchade 'Navajo blanket made withblack and white stripes with smalldiamonds of blue and red in the blackstripes. Worn usually by the tribalchiefs.

Hanos Ten-leaf, figured satin from EastIndia; obsolete.

Hanovilles French woolen serge; obso-lete.

Haps The coarsest and heaviest gradesof the Shetland shawls crocheted bythe natives.

Hapui Hi 'Same as Pulu (see).

Harakake Moori Name for the New Zea-land flax.

Harami Large size East Indian rugsmade for the mosques.

Harbins IMade of cotton and silk warpand wool filling; obsolete.

Hard Crepe Plain woven, light silk crepe,dyed black and gummed; used for

mourning.

Hard Finish The face of cotton and es-

pecially woolen and worsted fabrics,finished without any nap.

Hard Silk 'Not degummed.Hard Spun or Twist Yarn spun with

more revolutions per inch than usual.

Harden Obsolete and very coarse Englishcloth made of tow.

Hards The coarse fibers separated fromflax in scutching.

HAR 77 HEM

Hardwickia A tough, pliable bast fiber ofIndia used for cordage.

Hare or Harl The fibers in flax and hempstalks

Harlekin Kn^lish woolen dress goodswith chine patterns; obsolete.

Harlem Checks Linen from Holland withblue or red window plaid.

Harlequin 1, large plaid checks in morethan two colors; 2, 18th centurychecked woolen fabric in England.

Harn In England a coarse, low grade flax

yarn.

H arras Two-ply combed wool yarn inSouthern Germany and Austria.

Harrateen All-worsted English fabric ofthe 18th century.

Harris Tweed tA homespun, all-wooltweed, of soft feel and peaty odor,made originally on the island of Lewisand other islands off Scotland, usingthe best native blackface or cheviotwool in natural colors or dyed withvegetable dyes. Used for overcoats.

Harvard A somewhat hard washablecotton shirting, woven mostly in 2and 2 twill with colored warp and-white weft, forming stripes or zigzag lines which cover a large partof the fabric.

Haslock Scotch term for the finest partof the fleece, taken from the throat.

Hasp 'Linen or jute yarn measure, equalto 3,600 yards, (see hank).

Hatters' Plush Made with fine silk pile;used for men's and women's hats.

Haute Lisse 'French for high warptapestry, viz. made with the warp.placed in vertical position.

Haute Nouveautee ^French for noveltyfabrics.

HawkingA process in dyeing. Severalpieces of the fabric are sewed to-

gether, end to end and passed betweentwo rubber rolls, constantly kept underthe surface of the dye in the vat.

HawkinsEarly maturing, short stapledcommercial variety of American cot-

ton, the fiber measuring 18-22 milli-

meters; the yield of lint is 32-34 percent.

Hawser In nautics, a kind of small cabletwisted from three small ropes, eachof 20 strands.

Hay A Highland tartan, composed of

green stripes over a red ground, nar-row white and yellow lines splittingthe field.

Hays China A late maturing commercialvariety of cotton from Mississippi, thefine and lustrous staple measuringover 30 millimeters; the yield is about28-30 per cent.

Hayti Variety of West Indian raw cot-ton.

Head '1, merino clothing wool, taken fromthe head of the fleece; 2, measurefor yarn in Scotland, according to the

Sterling system; equal to 1,920 yards.

Heading 1, that edge of the lace floun-

cing which is sewn to the garment; 2,

trade name for that end of the pie>ceof bolt of cloth which is on the out-side; 3, in short length fabrics bothends of the material, usually decoratedwith stripes.

Health Crepe See crepe de sante.

Heart The core strand of a rope aroundwhich other strands are twisted.

Heart Yarn The center of a core yarn.

Heather Mixture Tweeds and homespunshaving flakes in heather and sandcolors on the face.

Hechima Japanese cotton drapery cloth,printed with flowers, etc.

Heer Linen and jute yarn measure, equalto 600 yards.

Hehbehlik Turkish name for Orientalsaddle bags of various but usuallybright colored design; in America'Used as pillow covers.

Heii iS'ame as Pulu (see).

Helenienne iStout, solid colored silkdress goods with small twilled pat-terns; obsolete.

Hemp Strong, lustrous and very durablebut harsh, bast fiber of the cannabissativa and many other similar plants,growing all over the world. The bestgrades are fine and white; used chief-ly for cordage, twine and sailcloth.iThe following commercial varieties

are cultivated: The common hemp, theBologne hemp (known also the Pie-montese or great hemp), the Chinesehemp (called Japanese hemp in Cali-fornia), the Smyrna hemp, the smallhemp and the Kentucky hemp.The Italian hemp is the best, with

the following principal grades: Gorg-iola (G), Gorgiola Bolognese (GB),primo cordaggio extra (PICE), primocordaggio (PC), primo basso (PB),secondo basso (SB), Napoli extrissimo(N), secondo cordaggio (SC), terziobasso (TB), quarto basso (QB), andstrappature.

In Russia the mark for the longestand best hemp is RH, for shorterSF1SPOH, for the shortest (.passhemp) SFSPPH. A good grade of(Polish hemp is marked G.FSPRH. Thecurrent qualities in Petrograd are:Clean, outshot and half clean.The hemp marketed through Koe-

nigsberg (Germany) is classed asclean, cut and schicking.The numbering for the fine hemp

yarns is the same as for linen yarn(see); for rope yarn the number givesthe number of threads required forone of the three strands found in arope of three-inch circumference. No.20 rope yarn weighs 18 oz. per 100yards, No. 30 weighs 1>2 ozs., No. 40weighs 9 ozs.

Hemstitch lA number of threads, parallelwith the edge are pulled out and thethreads running the other directionare caught into groups.

HEN HOM

Henequen A species of the sisal, a veryelastic, strong, white leaf fiber, yield-ed by the agave plant in Yucatan,Mexico; used for cordage.

Henrietta Fine twilled soft and lustrousfabric made with silk war,p and fine

worsted filling which is thrown onthe face with a 2-1 twill weave. It is

similar to caehmere; used for dresses.

Hepepetwan Rich, double-faced Chinesesilk satin.

Herat Very durable all-wool rugs madein Persia and Afghanistan, the me-dium long pile is tied in Ghiordesknot. The design is of floral and flsh

patterns or of a center medallion. Thecolors are blue, red and yellow.

Hercules Braid 'I. a flat braid, made withseven threads, each thread passingalternately under and over three

threads; 2, very wide flat braid, madecxf mohair, wool or silk; used for

trimming on dresses and uniforms.

Hereke Coarse wool from Anatolia.

Herez Rugs 'Fine Persian rugs madewith cotton web and close wool pile

tied in Ghiordes knot. The design is

usually a center medallion withstraight outlines and floral patternsin blue and various reds. The borderis in light color.

Heris (Persian camel's hair rug, madewith old patterns in dark brown.

Herlong A late maturing commercialvariety of prolific cotton from Ala-bama, Georgia, etc., the staple, meas-uring 22-i25 millimeters, forms mediumsize, round bolls; the lint yield is

30-32 per cent.

Hernarvi French dress goods, similar to

Grenadine (only lighter), made of silk

and wool.

Herringbone Stitch See Plaited Stitch.

Herringbone Twill Formed by reversingthe direction of the twill, to form asawtoothed line; same as brokentwill.

Hessian Name in England and Eu-rope for burlap (see). Also a coarse

hemp fabric in England.

Hiapu Light Chinese cloth, made of

ramie.

Hickory A very durable stout but pli-

able cotton trousering and shirting,made with colored stripes in the warpand white filling, woven in warp twill

weave.

Hightower A commercial variety of cot-

ton from Alabama having a mediumlong staple.

Hilliard 'A commercial variety of uplandcotton, the staple measuring about 23-

24 millimeters; the yield is 34-36 percent.

Himalaja In Austria a very fine twilledwoolen dress goods, similar in finish

to the Zibeline; made very spongy.

Hindi Variety short staple, reddish browncotton, grown in Mesopotamia.

Hingunghat .Best variety of East Indiancottons, having a strong staple of light

golden color.

Hinrop East Indian silk fabric, madewith flower patterns; used for gar-ments by the rich natives.

Hodden Grey Coarse cloth made in

Scotland of natural, usually black,wool.

Hocirunck A plain woven cotton fabricin East Africa, dyed in cinnamon'brawn; used for outer garments bythe native men. Similar to Khudur-angi.

Hog Wool yielded by one-year old sheep,which has not been shorn previously.

Holanda Wide linen goods, made in

Spain.Holbein Embroidery Outline embroidery

for table cloths, towels, etc.; bothsides made alike.

Holi In countries inhabited by Arabians,a woolen fabric, similar to Baracan;used for men's clothing.

Holland 1, general term for a great vari-

ety of light weight colored cotton

goods in Greece; 2, plain woven un-bleached linen, originally from Hol-land, made glazed or unglazed; usedas furniture cover, window curtains,etc.

Holland Flax Has long fine lustrousfibers.

Hollands In Cuba a finely striped linen;used for children's dresses and for

summer trousers.

Hollandas Coarse, starched cotton fab-rics in the Philippines, made withblac'k, 'blue or red warp stripes onwhite ground and white filling.

Hollie Point Old needle-point churchlace with Scriptural patterns. See

Holy Lace.

Hollingshead An old and now somewhatobsolete commercial variety of up-land cotton.

Hollow Cut 'Cotton corduroy woven first

with even pile, the runs between theribs are hollowed out with a shearingmachine. It is also made by holdingthe knife at various angles when cut-

ting the corduroy. Also known asvelvet cord.

Holosericum Medieval, all-silk fabric.

Holy Lace Obsolete lace made as darnednetting cut work or drawn work withbiblical subjects for designs. SeeHollie point.

Home A Highland tartan, composed o.f

dark blue and black stripes, split byred and green lines.

Homespun il, loose but very strong anddurable woolen, woven on handloomsof natural colored, homespun yarnin many parts of England; used for

overcoats, etc.; 2, machine made imi-

tations thereof, made with light col-

ored warp and dark filling usually In

two-and-two twill.

Homiak Good grade of home reeled silk

in Central Asia; exported to othercountries.

Homienchow iFancy silk fabric in plainweave, made of spun silk in China,is about 23 inches wide.

HON 79 HWA

Honal Kladi Navajo blankets (see) withthe stripes woven crosswise; worn bythe chiefs of the tribes.

Honeycomb 1, hexagonal mesh found in

laces; 2, patterns similar to cells oncotton or other fabrics, made withfine warp and much coarser filling,

producing reversible effect; used ontowels, also on some dress goods.

Honeycomb Canvas 'Bleached cottoncanvas, made in square honeycombeffect; used for embroidery.

Honeycomb Quilt Bleached, single fab-rics, woven of heavy cotton yarn in

any of the honeycomb weaves.

Honeycomb Reseau 'In laces, a groundcomposed of diamond shaped squares.

Honeycomb Stitch Used in smocking.

Hongchow Piece dyed silk foulard, madein China; is about 29 inches wide andused for wrapping.

Hongklpoun (Chinese handkerchiefs.

Hong Kong A plain woven fabric madewith silk warp and a little heavierramie filling, forming light rib ef-fect; used for men's and women'sclothes and it comes in solid colorsand printed.

Hongroise Plain French serge dressgoods of eight leaves and four picksin a repeat.

Honiton Lace English lace consists ofmachine made ground with bobbinmade flower and leaf sprigs. In theHoniton guipure the bobbin-madesprigs are joined by purlings or sim-ple stitches.

Hop Pocketing Jute bagging; used forhop bags; is similar to tarpaulin.

Hopsacking 1, coarse jute or flax bag-ging; 2, coarse or fine, open facewoolen dress goods and suiting.

Hopsack Weave 'Same as mat or basketweave, each unit formed by two ormore warp ends and as many fill-

ing threads.

Horrocks English calico, named afterits maker.

Horse Cloth Double-faced twilled jute,the. back often made of wool. Usu-ally single colored or striped; usedas horse blanket.

HorsehairLong lustrous hair; used infurniture seats, underlinings, etc. It

is spun into yarn by gluing the hair toa cotton binding thread and thentwisted. The glue is insoluble. Ac-cording to another system two finecotton threads are twisted around thehair.

Horsetail Silk thread used for couchingdown metal threads.

Hose 1, knitted stockings for women andchildren; 2, tube, plaited or wovenwithout any seam, usually of extrastrong cotton or linen yarn, often wa-terproofed.

Hosiery 1, formerly meant breeches; 2,same as stockings; 3, in England gen-eral term for knit goods.

Hounscot Say A 17th century Englishworsted.

House Flannel Lightweight flannel, madewith cotton warp and woolen filling;used for household purposes.

Housewife's Cloth Obsolete English termfor a medium fine household linen fab-ric of plain weave.

Howell 1, an early ripening commercialvariety of upland cotton from Louisi-ana, the staple measuring up to 25millimeters; the yield of lint is 34-36per cent; 2, general trade term forT cloths in Greece.

Hsiu 'Chinese embroidery; the designsare filled out with colored silk or goldand silver threads.

Huamaga iSee Damajagua.Huampo Bark fiber, yielded by the

Cheirostemon platanoides, in Peru;used for garments by the natives.

Huasi ma Coarse, reddish brown bastifiber, yielded by a species of theGuazuma tree in Mexico and Trini-dad; used for cordage.

Huccatoon Cotton fabrics, made in Man-chester for the African markets.

Huckaback A thick loose and soft cot-ton or linen toweling woven in birds-eye or honeycomb patterns, with veryslack twist and low count weft form-ing long floats and a strong selvage.It comes in white or with coloredends.

Hugicion Fiber yielded by a species ofthe fig tree in Peru.

Huguenot Lace Obsolete French appliqualace, made by mounting on net groundflowers cut out of light material andfastening by buttonhole stitches.

Huitoc (Fibrous bast of a species of

Genipa in Peru; used for roughclothing by the natives.

Humphrey A commercial variety of longstaple cotton from America, same asEureka.

Humum Plain East Indian cotton clothof coarse quality.

Hungry .1. wool the fineness of which is

caused by lack of feed; 2, flaw incloth caused by the openness of thetexture resulting from the varyingthickness of the filling.

Hunnicutt Early maturing commercialvariety of prolific cotton from Ameri-ca, the staple measuring 22-25 milli-meters; the yield is 30-32 per cent.

Hunting Cloth A plain or striped cottontweed made in India.

Hurden (Coarse and stout, plain wovenhemp fabric, of medieval England.

Husking Cloth (Stout and heavy cottonticking; used for working gloves.

Hwachow Dressed silk gros de Naples,made in China; it is about 24 incheswide. The warp is organzine and thefilling a six-ply grege tram.

Hwa Mien Chow Cotton poplin, made In

China, about 20 inches wide.

HWA 80 IMP

Hwasienchow Very soft silk gros deNaples, made in China; it is about 25

inches wide and does not crease. Oc-casionally made similar to crepe.

Hwayong A Chinese silk velvet, made In

green or poppy colors.

Hwayutwan Wool poplin, made in China,is about &2 inches wide.

Hydrochloric Acid Used for carbonizingin aniline black dyeing of cotton andcotton mixtures, in bleaching, etc.

Hydrogen Peroxide Used as bleachingagent for all kinds of silk and for

wool, although the latter will losesome of its elasticity.

Hydrosulphite Used as reducing agentagainst indigo.

(byria Leaf fiber yielded by the Brome-liaceae in South America. It is strong,silky and does not rot. Used for cordand twine.

Ice Colors Same as azo colors.

Ice Silk <Slack twist silk yarn for knit-

ting in England.Ice Wool Very highly finished, thick, two-

ply soft- spun wool yarn; used for

knitting or crocheting.

Iceland Wool Coaree, hairy wool with afine downy wool underneath.

Ida Canvas Soft, open face canvas; madeof unbleached linen.

Idria Lace Coarse pillow lace, made bythe peasant women in Idria and Dal-matia. The designs are geometrical,usually made like a tape lace. Theyarn is coarse.

le Sina Very fine, hand woven, loose

clothing mats, made by the nativesof Samoa. One side of the mat is

made fleecy by looping long bunchesof the fiber into the mat.

le Taua A very fine and flexible mat,made of the leaves of the Pandanusby the natives of Samoa; used for

clothing, etc.

leie 'Native Hawaiian name of the Frey-cinetia plant, the air roots of whichare used for mats and baskets.

Ife Very long and strong leaf fiber yield-ed by the Sansevieria cylindrica in

Southern Africa; it does not deterior-ate in water; used for cordage, twine.

Ihram 'Coarse, felted woolen fabric; usedfor garments by Turkish pilgrims.

limas iNavajo blanket woven with fourhealds, the design showing diagonalsand diamonds, usually different onboth sides.

Ilicha East Indian cloth of silk and cot-

ton; used for shawls by native women.Illuminated Mixture The color effect in

some of the wool fabrics, consisting ofa email quantity of bright color on adark ground.

Illusion 'F'ine French silk tulle; used fortrimming; also a net with star mesh;used for veils and dresses.

Imagdong A plant in the Philippines. Thefibers of which are used for cords andropes.

Imbabura Cotton grown in Peru; thestaple is fine, white and clean.

Imbe (Fiber yielded by the stem of aspecies of Philodendron in Brazil; usedfor ropes.

Imirat An Bast Indian cotton fabric ofplain weave.

Imitation Fur A pile fabric, either wovenor knitted and having curled or

straight pile, made to imitate variousfurs.

Imitation Horsehair Narrow plain wovenfabric; made of heavily sized vege-table fibers to imitate horse haircloth; used for interlining.

Imitation Lace iMachine-inade imitationof real or hand-made laces.

Imitation Wool iMade by treating Sene-gal hemip in cold solution of causticsoda, peroxide of sodium and solubleoil or in bath of peroxide of sodiumand ammonia in equal parts. Thehemp is then treated with an acid so-lution.

Imitation Yarn 'Name in Germany andAustria for yarn spun of short stapleor waste cotton; used for flannelettes.

Imizillus, Myzinum 'Light weight silkfabric of the Middle Ages.

Imperial 1, a medieval Italian gold bro-cade; 2, rich silk fabric, partly inter-woven with gold, known in England inthe 12th century, imported from By-zanz; 3, Fine French lining serge, sim-ilar to flannel, made about 20 incheswide, obsolete; 4, Fine Belgian ging-ham with colored i warp an*^\weft.stripes; 5, A lightv/ejght East Vlndiar^,ifigured cotton fabric; 6, A heavj, -weftfaced cotton fabric; used for work-men's clothes in

% England; also calledswansdown. '^

Imperial Satin Is a closely woven cottonfabric, made with an eight-leaf weftface satin weave, two contiguous warpends raised together. There are atleast about twice as many picks (ofsoft spun ifi'lling) than warp ends. Theyare naipped on the 'back or on the face,when they are called lambskins. Thereversible imperial is very closelypicked, showing the filling at each side.

Imperial Serge 'Another name for perpe-tuana.

Imperial Shirting IBleached cotton shirt-

ing from England.

Imperial Tape iStout cotton tape in Eng-land.

Imperiale (Fine worsted serge of closeweave in France.

Impermeable Waterproofed.

Impid A Philippine fiber used for cord-age.

Impregnating Process by which the flock,the shortest of wool fibers, is fulledinto the back of the cloth to imp*.r*.

body to It.

IMP 81 IRI

Imprime French term (or printed.

Improved Long Staple 'Commercial va-riety of cotton from America; seeJones Long Staple.

Improved Prolific A commercial varietyof upland cotton from North Carolina,the staple measuring up to 25 milli-meters; the yield is about 30 per centlint.

Inaja Strong leaf fiber yielded by theInaja palm in Brazil; used for cord-age, etc.

Inauguration Cloth Various dress facedtwilled woolens, usually of a mixturecharacter, featured at the occasion ofpresidential inaugurations in theUnited States.

Incombustible <See fireproof fabrics.

Incompable Obsolete 'French silk serge.

India Chintz iA thick, stout chintz withlarge patterns; used for upholstery.

India Goods Made in East India.

India Muslin Very fine Bast Indian cottonmuslin.

India Tape Very strong, soft or stiffenedEnglish narrow cotton tape, the widthgraded from 00 to 10.

Indian Ciciclia 'Silk brocade with gold andsilver flowers over a ribbed ground.

Indian Dimity Fine, plain woven, lightcotton dress goods, having cross ribsformed by the filling. It is .printed infloral warp stripes, and also betweenthe ribs.

Indian Hemp (Fine, long and strong fiberof light cinnamon color, yielded by theApocynum cannaibinum; used by theNorth American Indians for baskets,belts, twine, etc.

Indian Lace Tapes and edgings made inEast India from silk and silver or goldwire (or core yarn) ; used for trim-ming garments and turfoans.

Indian Linon Fine, closely woven cottonlawn, very slightly sized and usuallybleached.

Indian Mull A 'fine, undressed, plain wov-en mull, dyed in the piece, made orig-inally in India; used for dresses.

Indian Okra Very white, smooth, silkybast fiber of fair strength, yielded bythe Hibiscus eeculentus of India; usedfor cordage and bagging.

Indian Shawl iMade in France, with fancycombed wool warp and hard twistwool filling in Oriental patterns.

Indian Shirting 'Plain woven, pure cottonfabric, heavily sized, made in Eng-land for the Indian markets.

Indian Work Drawn work made on mus-lin.

Indienne 1, obsolete, general term for

printed cottons from East India; 2,

fine stout calico with small patterns,made in France; 3, light cotton dressfabric with alternate colored wovenwarp stripes and printed patterns be-tween.

Indigo 1, a fast blue dye, extracted fromthe stems and leaves of various gen-era of the indigofera and the woadplants. The dyestuff in its naturalstate is a yellow liquid, the oxidizingaction of the air developing the blueindigo which is insoluble and is mar-keted in the shape of cakes. Beforeusing it for dyeing this blue indigo is

dissolved in some alkaline bath andis again converted into soluble indigowhite which will easily oxidize intofast blue under the influence of theair. Artificial indigo is a syntheticdyestuff, obtained from coal tar prod-ucts, and is of the same chemicalcomposition as natural indigo; 2, astandard, plain woven cotton fabric,having dots or other figures printedon a solid, indigo 'blue ground.

I nea Cotton warp alpaca dress goods in

France ; obsolete.

Infantado Variety of Spanish merinowool.

Ingipipa Native name in French Guianafor the fibrous bast of the Courataritree; used for blankets.

Ingrain 1, fabrics dyed in the fiber or theyarn; 2, in the United States namefor Kidderminster carpets.

Ingrain Colors Same as azo colors.

In the Grease Signifies wool in its nat-ural state, as it comes from thesheep's back with all the grease andother impurities attached to it.

In the Gum The natural silk fiber beforethe gum covering is removed by boil-

ing out.

Injira^Variety of raw cotton from Col-ombia. /

Inking The process of dyeing spots,which otherwise -would show up grayin the finished fabric.

InkleA linen braid or tape, often yellow,but also striped blue and red; usedin England as dress trimming untilthe end of the 17th century.

Inlet In Germany and Austria a coarseand very stout cotton fabric, bleachedor dyed: used as bedding instead of

linen; see also Bedstout.

Insertion See Entredeux.

Ir Very fine, flexible and ornamentalclothing mats in the Marshall Islands;made of pandanus leaves By the na-tives.

I rabirussu 'Native (Brazilian name for thefibrous bark of the Couratari tree;used for clothing, blankets, etc.

Iraki Variety of short staple cottonraised along the Tigris and Euphrates.

Irish Cloth Medieval English woolen fab-ric, made in white and red; used for

lining.

Irish Crochet Very fine crochet, madeinto various laces.

Irish Duck Very closely woven, stronglinen duck; used for workingmen'sclothes.

IRI JAM

Irish Eye Diaper Trade term in Irelandfor a three-leaf linen diaper, two-thirds of the warp and one- third ofthe weft threads forming one side ofthe cloth and two-thirds of the weftand one-third of the wanp the otherside.

Irish Flax The finest grade of flax, grownin Ireland.

Irish Frieze Impervious frieze made inIreland of fine, long, native wool, dyedbefore spun.

Irish Lawn Very fine, plain woven,bleached lawn, made of pure, hard-spun ply linen yarn.

Irish Linen 'Bleached, fine, plain wovenlinen fabrics, made in Ireland; usedfor dresses, shirts, handkerchiefs, etc.

Irish Point 1, lace with needle-point orboibbin made sprigs sewn to machinemade net, this sometimes being cutaway under the patterns; 2, curtainlace, with patterns mounted on a ma-chine made net.

Irish Stitch In embroidery used for

grounding; it is a long stitch, car-ried over five or more threads and it

requires fine foundation canvas.

Irish Work 'White embroidery on whiteground, mostly on handkerchiefs.

Irlanda A cotton or linen shirting In

'Cuba with colored stripes on whitefoundation or vice versa.

Iron 'Buff lA fast, rust colored dye, pro-duced by soluble salts of iron whichwas fixed by some alkali; little in usenow, mostly for cotton and linen fab-rics.

Iron Yarn (White or tolack cotton yarnmade very smooth by starching andglazing^ used for linings and hatshapes.

Isabel (Fine twilled English worsted dress

goods; obsolete.

Isabelle French dress goods made withsingle warp in eight leaf and six fill-

ing repeats.

Isbahani .Medieval sil'k fabric of Arabicorigin.

Isitebe 'Mats made of the Kyllinga .plantin Natal.

Isle of Man Lace Coarse and narrow bob-bin-made lace used for edgings, simi-lar to the Valenciennes; now obsolete.

Isle of Wight Lace Obsolete English bob-bin lace, resembling the Wiltshire. Thedesign is outlined with thick threadand then filled in with the needle.

The ground is machine-made.

Ismaili Pale and dark striped cotton fab-ric with a border of red, white andyellow stripes and a selvage of red,in East Africa.

Ispahan 'Persian woolen rug made withhand tied knots.

Ispahan Yarn 'Two or more ply, hardtwist, gassed yarn made of mohair.

Istaberk An East Indian silk satin, wov-en of opalescent wild silk.

Italian Cloth >A stout but light and glossyfabric woven in a five-leaf weft satinweave of cotton or wool yarns anddyed in the piece; it is usually dyedblack and used for lining, petticoats,etc.

Italian Ferret Silk tape or binding forflannels and dressing gowns.

Italian Stitch .Same as Holbein stitch.

Iwaiwa Fiber yielded by the stalks of afern in 'Hawaii; used for 'baskets,mats, etc., by the natives.

Ixtle (Mexican name for various vegetable'fibers, especially .for the lechuguilla(see) and the agave; used for cord-age. Also called henequen.

lyo 'Native name for the African bass.

Izarin 'East Indian cotton cloth; obso-lete.

J

Jacitara .Very strong, elastic bast fiber,yielded by the Jacitara climbing plantin Brazil.

Jacobite Tartan 'Was worn by the Ja-cobites in Scotland at the beginning ofthe 18th century. The design is com-posed as follows: Bright yellow stripe;'group consisting of white, blue, red,white, red, 'blue, white stripes, the en-tire group being of the same widthas the yellow stripe and the threewhite lines being very narrow*; yel-low stripe as above; group, as above*;solid green stripe, of the same widthas yellow; group, as above*; solid

green stripe, of the same width asyellow; group, as above*.

Jaconet 'Fine, sheer cotton dress fabric,thinner than cambric, comes in white.or stripes or prints. Originally fromEast India.

Jacquard 1, designs which are too largefor the harness loom and are wovenon the Jaoquard loom; 2, hosieryknitted in two or more colors with aseparate thread for each color.

Jacquard Drill iStout drill made with lin-

en face and cotton back.

Jaeger Fabrics Knitted or woven fabrics,made of 'fine, pure, natural wool andcamel hair. They are very porousand are considered hygienic.

Jago A linen cloth.

Jaldai Indian cotton muslin, figured withnet-like designs.

Jamaica Variety of West Indian raw cot-ton.

Jamavas 'Light East Indian brocaded silk

taffeta; obsolete.

Jamawar East Indian shawl, made ofcoarse wool with wide stripes.

Jamadane Very fine brocaded or em-broidered-like muslin made in India

by laying short lengths of gold orcolored threads parallel with the warpin the hand looms.

JAM 83 JON

Jamkhana East Indian cotton carpet withstripe .patterns.

Janapan (See Sunn hemp.Janes See Jean.

Jangipurl Inferior quality of Indian jute,

having a reddish brown, weak fiber.

Jannequin Coarse cotton cloth, made In

Asia Minor.

Janus Cloth Double faced worsted fab-

ric, each side made in a different color.

Janus Cord Black dyed, dress goods withwarp ribs, made alike on both sides;made of cotton warp and worsted fill-

ing.

Japanese Rugs Pile or tapestry rugs,made of cotton or jute, in Orientalscroll designs.

Japergonsi 'Fine East Indian muslin withgold selvage.

Japonette Printed cotton crepe in Can-ada.

Japrak Green, red, orange and blue

Smyrna rugs.

Jaquenolle East Indian plain or stripedmuslin.

Jardiniere Designs composed of flowers,fruits and leaves.

Jaspee 1, French term for yarn twistedof several colored nub or plain yarns;.2, cloth made of same yarn.

Jasper Pepper and salt effect by havingthe warp black and the filling whiteor vice versa.

Java A cotton fabric with red ground andred. yellow and white stripes in EastAfrica; used for dresses by the nativewomen.

Java Canvas (Made of cotton, linen orworsted ply yarns with open face;used for embroidery; the yarns are

grouped two or three together eachway.

Javelle Water Used for bleaching vege-table fibers.

Jean 1, very stout, durable, twilled trous-

ering, made of hard spun cotton warpand a low grade wool or shoddy fill-

ing. It is dyed very dark gray in the

yarn; used for working trousers; 2,

name in America for the one-and-twotwill; 3, in England a three shafttwilled woolen fabric with a weft face.

Jean-'back Weft pile cotton velvet madewith twilled ground.

Jean Stripes A gingham made in Eng-land.

Jeannet iStout, coarse warp twilled faibric,

made of cotton warp and wool filling;

used for working clothes.

Jeannette 1, in England a three shafttwilled wool faibric, with a warp face;

2, coarse jean, lighter in texture; 3,

name for the one-and-two twill. Seealso Jean.

Jenappe See Genappe.Jenfez A cross ribbed Turkish silk fab-

ric.

Jenkins A commercial variety of earlymaturing American cotton, the staplemeasuring '22-25 millimeters; the yieldof lint is 34-36 per cent.

Jennets-Stout, twilled English cottons,come in white, figured or printed.

Jequitiba Native Brazilian term for the'fibrous bast of the Couratari tree;used for blankets, clothing, ropes, etc.

Jerga Coarse woolen fabric with plaidpattern; used by the natives of Mex-ico.

Jersey 1, a fine, choice wool, combed fromthe rest of the wool; 2, a very finewoolen yarn.

Jersey Cloth A thick, knitted fabric,made of wool; also of silk.

Jersey Flannel (Crocheted and nappedwoolen faibric.

Jerusalem Cotton iSee Bazac.

Jesuit Cloth 'Coarse, stout, black, plainwoven woolen cloth made of hardtwist yarn; used as suiting by re-ligious orders.

Jesuit Lace Irish crochet guipure.

Jetee Lustrous, very strong elastic anddurable bast fiber, yielded by theRajinahal hemp in India; used forbowstrings, fishing nets, etc.

Jethro A now obsolete commercial va-riety of American cotton.

Jeypore Indian cotton rugs having Per-sian designs with tree and animalforms in red, ivory and blue.

Jhapan (Indian cotton muslin with silkflower patterns.

Jhibandlik A coarse, East Indian cottonnet, woven in leno.

Jhilmeel Very light East Indian silk fab-ric, made with an open weave.

Jhuganat A stou-t. bleached and glazedcotton fabric of inferior grade in EastIndia.

Jimped In England same as pinked.

Jipins Rug 'Commercial term for dra-peries and hangings, made of wooland used on doors and windows.

Jircaza Originally fine East Indian cot-ton lawn with woven colored flowers.

Joannovitch Very fine and strong cot-ton, grown in Egypt, the staple meas-uring from 1% to 1% inches in length.

Johnston Highland tartan, made as fol-lows: Wide dark green bar, split in

the center 'by three narrow stripes(black at the outside, yellow between)these stripes divided by green stripesof the same width; navy blue bar ofthe same width as green, split in thecenter by three narrow black stripes,spaced their own width from eachother.

Jolocin Coarse bast fiber, obtained froma species of the Heliocarpus tree in

Central America; used for cordage.

J one Obsolete French dress goods, madeof linen with alternate light and darkcross ribs.

Jones Improved A late maturing com-mercial variety of upland cotton, thestaple measuring 20-24 millimeters;the yield of lint is 30-S2 per cent.

JON KAK

Jones Long Staple A late maturing com-mercial variety of upland cotton, thestaple measuring 30-34 millimeters;form large bolls; the yield is 29-30per cent.

Jones Number 1 A commercial variety ofcotton from Alabama, the staplemeasuring 18-22 millimeters; the yieldof lint is 33 per cent.

Jonote Coarse bast fiber yielded by aspecies of the Heliocarpus tree in Cen-tral America; used for cordage.

Joree Silk worm in Assam, lives on figtrees, yielding a strong and lustrousfiber.

Joria IBest type of East Indian wool,has a springy staple.

Josephine Tricot A very open crochetwork, consisting of closely crochetedrows connected by double yarns at in-tervals.

Josette ^A strong, stout twilled cottonfabric; used for sporting wear.

Jour Zephyr Obsolete French term forthe simplest gauze.

Jours 1, open work in embroideries, lacesor in fabrics. Designs in open workon fabrics are made by pressing thefabric against a plate having pointsarranged to form the design and thendress the fabric to hold the holes; 2,

See Modes.Jour Deux Place, Jour Trois Place

French term for leno weaves, havingtwo and three rows of holes respec-tively.

Jouy Canvas Printed cotton or silk fa/b-

ibric, showing small floral designs.

Jowarihathi iSee Tellapatti.

Jowers Commercial variety of late ma-turing American cotton, the staplemeasuring 22-25 millimeters; the yieldis 34 per cent or more.

Jubbulpore Hemp Of India, one of thevery best grades of hemp, having along, lustrous and very strong fiber.

Jumbo Commercial variety of a prolificand early maturing American cotton,the staple measuring 18-22 milli-

meters; the yield is 32-<34 per cent.

Jumel 'Variety of Egyptian raw cotton.Same as Mako.

Jupon Plain woven French dress goodsmade with cotton warp and woolenfilling.

Jusi A fine, sheer and plain woven fabric,made of hemp warp and pineappleIflber filling, or pineapple warp andsilk or cotton filling. It comes in

colored stripes and checks and is madeby the natives of the Philippines; usedfor women's dresses.

Jute Very long, luetrous and strong bast

yielded by the Corchorus in India. It

is silver gray or yellowish brown; usedfor bagging, coarse ropes, cheapercarpets, etc. The j. fiber is not dur-alble and rots quickly in water.The chief grades of jute in the na-

tive markets are: Uttariya, deswal,deora, desi, naraingunja, Chatial, kar-

imganji, bakrabadi, mirganji. jangi-

puri. In European markets the stan-dard quality is the bale marked M,

which is the basis for all quotations;this contains seragjung jute. Anotherimportant quality in bale is markedD, containing Dacca jute. The balesmarked CD'M contain common jutefor sacking. Jute is sorted into threequalities, of which the first one con-tains from 15 to 20 per cent of the to-tal, the second quality from 25 to 30per cent and the third from 50 to 60

per cent.

Jute Butts Jute waste, consisting of theend of the fibers; used for paper stock.

K

Kaba Karaman Rugs Coarse and heavy,small rugs made by the nomad Kar-amanian in Asia Minor. The warpand weft are of heavy and coarse woo!.the long and very loose pile is tiedin G-hiordes knot. The design is usual-ly that of a prayer rug.

Kabistan Rugs 'Very fine rugs made inCaucasia with cotton web, occasion-ally wool warp, and short, wool pile,tied cloeely in G-hiordes knot. Thedesigns are geometrical, stars anddiamonds and pears in rows oftenoccurring. The field is often dividedinto horizontal rows of pears or finelyblended stripes. The border oftencontains conventionalized animal fig-ures. The ends are finished with a

narrow selvage and a loose or knottedfringe. The sides are overcast, occa-sionally having only one warp threadleft.

Kabylo French shawl, made with cardedwarp and filling.

Kadu "Sleeping mat in Java, made of

palm leaves.

Kaffir Hemp Very strong, white ba.nfiber, yielded by the South African,the Grewia occidentalis; used for ropeand cloth toy the Kaffirs.

Kaffir Sheet Very coarse, twilled cottonfajbric, with fancy colored heading;used for garments by the natives of

iSouth Africa.

Kaga Trade term for the medium gradeJapanese silk fabrics.

Kahnami The bast variety of raw cotton,grown in Broach and Navsari, India.

The staple is very soft and silky.

Kaiki See Khaiki.

Kairens Turkish wool rug of good qual-ity; used as floor and furniture cover.

Kaimakani Fine sheer cotton cloth; usedin Turkey to bind the turbans with.

Kairuan Rug from Tunis, made by the

natives of wool with hand tied knots.

KakahuFine, glossy cloth, formerly wov-en of the New Zealand hemp by the

Maoris.

KAK 85 KAR

Kakarally Very fine and thin layers offibrous bast, obtained from the Mon-key-pot tree in South America; usedfor wrapping, cordage, baskets, etc.

Kakeda Fine Japanese raw silk.

Kalameit Jute fiber prepared accordingto a secret process, which increasesthe affinity of the fiber for dyestuffs.

Kalamal iStriped cotton faibric with awhite ground; used in Turkestan fordresses.

Kalemkai Coarse Persian calico.

Kalga East Indian applique work; usedfor curtains and covers.

Kalgan Wool Variety of Chinese carpetwool.

Kali Persian felted rug, the napped faceis embroidered with flower designs insilver and silk.

Kaliava 'Coarse home reeled silk in Cen-tral Asia; used by the natives.

Kalin An East Indian pile carpet, witha strong cotton thread warp and fill-

ing and wool pile; the carpet is madeby alternating one row of knots withone filling.

Kalmuc Carpet Made with woolen warpwhich runs regularly over and undertwo fillings.

Kalmuck 1, inferior Persian calico; 2,

coarse woolen fabric, woven in a loosetwill with a shaggy face; 3, in Austriaand Germany a stout cotton fabricwoven with two sets of filling, of dif-ferent colors and napped on bothsides; 4. a variety of woolen Londresmade in Prance.

Kalotaszegi Varrottas (Hungarian needle-work, combining drawn work and em-broidery on stout cotton or linenground; the embroidery is done mostlyin red and blue, forming tulips andother flowers.

Kalpatadai East Indian cotton and silkfabric, made with fine warp stripesof white, yellow and crimson.

Kamdani (Fine East Indian cotton mus-lin.

Kamerijk Dutch cambric.

Kamptulicon Floor covering consistingof a strong and coarse cotton or jutefoundation, coated with a compoundof ground cork, oil, rubber, etc.

Kamschatka Obsolete term for the first

English chenille shawls, made withchenille weft, followed by three picksof common weft.

Kanaffe Strong bast fiber of the Hibiscuscannabinus in East India; used forthread and cordage. See Decan hemp.

Kandahar Good carpet wool from BastIndia.

Kanga Native East African name forcotton shawls, printed in colors, most-ly brown, red, black, yellow and pink.

Kangam -Chinese nankeen of blue color.

Kangars l^arge printed cotton handker-chiefs in red, black, green and yel-low; used for scarfs, etc., in Arabia.

Karriki A plain or twilled dark blue orblack cotton shirting imported to EastAfrica; used for garments by the na-tive women.

Kaniki Buibui^A very light, sheer kaniki;used as veil.

Kaniki Marduf A twilled kaniki.

Kaniki Mkelle 'Native East African namefor piece dyed nainsook.

Kaniki Ufito 'Native East African namefor piece dyed cotton fabrics; madewith warp cords.

Kanvi Variety of raw cotton from Kathi-awar and Gujarat, India. The stapleis of low grade but prolific.

Kanoko Very light, crepe-like Japanesesilk, dyed usually red or violet andused by women as hair ornament, etc.

Kapa A very fine, easily bleached sheet,obtained from the bast of a speciesof the mulberry tree, also a speciesof the nettle in the Sandwich Islands,through beating; used for clothing bynatives.

Kapar General term for a variety of EastIndian shawls.

Kapok (Lustrous* elastic, 'but brittle andrather S'hort seed hair, yielded by theEriodendron anfractuosum in Java,India, and other places; used princi-pally for stuffing but it is also spunafter mixed with other longer fibers.

Karabagh Rugs All-wool rugs made ofnatural colored wool and dyed warp.The loose and coarse pile is of me-dium length and is tied in Ghiordesknot. The ends are usually turnedback or have a fringe. The designis varied and heterogeneous and thecolors crude.

KarachiEast Indian cotton, having amedium long and fairly strong stapleof dull color; contains much leaf.

Karadagh Rugs Small and medium sizedPersian all wool rugs; the close andmedium long pile is tied in Ghiordesknot. The ground is usually coveredwith floral designs. Sometimes therug is knitted.

Karadi A long and quite coarse carpetwool from Mesopotamia.

Karamushi A Japanese variety of theramie.

Karankas Soft and heavy East Indiansilk brocade with gold, silver or silk

pattern over satin foundation.

Karatas IPine white leaf fiber, yielded bythe wild pineapple in Central America,Brazil, etc.; used for fine hammocks,strings, fishing lines, etc., by the In-dians.

Karawan Turkish skin wool from thenative fat tailed sheep.

Kareya Very strong, thick cotton clothmade in India; used for garments.

Karimganji Indian jute, having a verystrong and long staple of light color.

Karmanian Khilims IMade in Turkestan;often have prayer rug d.esign. SeeKhilim.

Karreldoek Linen sail cloth made in Hol-land.

KAS 86 KEY

Kas Variety of raw cotton in Nubia.Kasan In Germany and Austria a woolen

dress goods, similar to a stout flan-nel.

Kasawari 'Printed bleached shirting; usedin Persia, imported from India.

Kasheda 'East Indian falbric, made ofwild silk, often mixed with cotton,and embroidered.

Kashgar Coarse cotton rugs with longloose wool pile tied in Senna knot.They are made in Central Asia. Thedesign consists of Chinese fret, drag-ons, fish, etc., in bright pinks, orange,yellows, etc.

Kashgar Cloth Thick but light dressgoods made of Kashgar wool; It hasa long, napped face.

Kashkai Collective name for Kerman-shah, Shiraz and Mecca rugs.

Kashmir Rug Another name for Soumakrugs (see).

Kashmir Shawl See Cashmere shawl.Kasida 'Sort of Dacca muslin (see), em-

broidered in floss silk; used for scarfs,turbans, etc.

Kassapbatchi Coarse Turkish skin wool;used for carpets.

Kattun German for calico.

Kawamatta Trade term for inferiorgrades of Japanese silk fabrics.

Kawo Kawo iSilky, yellowish seed hair ofthe Bombax tree in the Malay States.

Kaya A mosquito netting made in Japan.Kazak Rugs Small and medium size, all-

wool rugs made in Caucasia, havinga very long, soft pile tied in Ghiordesknot; often there are four wefts al-

ternating with each row of knots. Thedesign consists of geometrical pat-terns often having a toothed edge orprimitively conventionalized trees andanimals. Reds, greens and blues arethe favorite colors. At least one endie finished with a knotted fringe.

Keckling In nautics, old rope around ca-bles to keep them from chafing.

Kedis Stout cotton shirting and lining in

Asiatic Turkey.Kefieh 'Printed cotton cloth, measuring

about 42 inches square; used as headcovering in Asia Minor.

Keith 'Commercial variety of early ma-turing, prolific cotton from Alabama,the staple measuring 24-26 milli-

meters; the yield ie 32-34 per cent.

Kekchi Raw cotton from Guatemala, thestaple being of good length and qual-ity.

Kelat 'Variety of good, short carpet woolfrom Beloochistan.

Kelly 'Commercial variety of prolific andlate maturing American cotton, thestaple measuring 26-30 millimeters;the yield of lint is 30-31 per cent.Also called Marston.

Kelt 'Scotch frieze made of natural blackfaced wool.

Kemea Indian all-silk taffeta made withflower patterns.

Kemp 'Diseased wool fibers, with un-evenly developed medulla, whichcauses streaks in dyeing. It is acoarse, white, undeveloped fiber.

Kemuku Japanese silk waste, yielded bythe outer skin of the cocoon in reel-

ing.

Kendal A coarse English tweed of greencolor in the 14th century; used forclothing.

Kendir Stem (fiber of the Apocynumaround the Adriatic Sea; used for

ropes, nets, bags.

Kennedy A Highland tartan, composed ofa green ground, dark blue and blackchecks and red and yellow lines.

Kennet 'Coarse woolen cloth made inWales.

Kensington Quilt iHas large patternsformed of coarse thread on a fine

plain woven ground.

Kenting Thin, sheer Silesia linen fabric.

Kentucky Jean Very strong, stout, weftface fabric, made with cotton warpand wool filling in satin weave; usedfor trousers, etc.

Keratto Inferior fiber yielded by certainspecies of the Agave in the West In-dies.

Kerf In England the flock resulting fromshearing the cloth.

Kermanshah Rugs Usually all-wool Per-sian rugs. The medium long, closepile is tied in Ghiordes knot. Thedesign usually consists of floral pat-terns, often small palm leaves in rows.

Kermer A shawl made of pure silk, ormixed with cotton, worn by the womenin Egypt.

Kermes Red coloring matter, yielded bythe dried bodies of the coccus ilicis,

a small insect. It is ground up inhot water, producing the carmine. Ex-tensively used in past centuries to

dye silk and wool fabrics.

Kermis 'Cotton handkerchiefs from EastIndia.

Kermiss 'Inferior English cotton fabric;used for dresses.

Kerr A Highland tartan, made as fol-

lows: Wide red bar, split in the cen-ter by three narrow black stripeswhich are spaced their own widthfrom each other; black stripe, aboutone-sixth in width of the red bar;dark green bar, same in width as redbar, split with a pair of black stripes(as wide as those in the red bar) neareach edge, these black stripes beingspaced from the edge of the green barand from each other their own width.

Kersey Stout, heavy and pliable twilledall-wool or cotton warp fa>bric, fin-

ished with a close nap; used for coats.

Kerseymere Pine woolen suiting, havingtwo-thirds of the filling and one-thirdof the warp on the face.

Kerseynet Light English fabric, madewith cotton warp and woolen filling;

used for men's clothes.

Kevergik Turkish skin wool of merinosheep.

Keymo An English finishing process, ren-dering woolens and worsteds un-shrinkable by a bath of sulphuricacid.

KHA 87 KIN

Khabbikutah 'Collective name for vari-ous nondescript short pile, knottedPersian rugs.

Khaiki iA plain woven, washable, lightJapanese silk fabric.

Khaki 1, a brownish earth color; 2, avery strong, durable fabric, made withdiagonal ribs; has the khaki color andis used for army uniforms, etc., invarious countries. The k. made forthe United States Government is 28inches wide, weighing between 6%and 7 oz. per linear yard. It is madeof all cotton, 2,500 ends in the pieceand 54 picks in an inch, woven witha four-harness three to one twill. It

is dyed with fast khaki. The Englisharmy khaki overcoating has the weightof 33 to 33H oz., the cloth contains 38ends and 46 picks per finished inchand is woven in prunella twill.

Khaki Cotton Various East Indian andChinese cottons yielding tan or red-dish colored staple.

Khali Natural brown felted Persian fab-ric, embroidered in colored silk andsilver flowers.

Khandeish 'East Indian cotton, having aharsh, strong and very dirty staple of

golden color.

Kharajobi 'Name for a great variety ofgold and silver embroidery made in

East India.

Kharjikhan Bast Indian embroidery workin gold and silver.

Kharwa iRed East Indian cotton fabric;used for ticks.

Khasa Cotton muslin from India.

Kheetee East Indian chintz.

Khemir Silk shawl from Egypt.Khersek iHeavy Persian woolen rugs with

a shaggy pile.

Khes iStout East Indian cotton fabricmade with check patterns or colored,often gold border.

Khilim iRugs of all sizes made in Ana-tolia, Persia, Turkestan and severalof the Balkan States. They are wov-en by hand and have no pile, the weftbeing of hard twisted wool. The de-sifrn. which is alike on both sides, con-sists of angular geometrical figuresin a great variety of colors. They areused for divan covers and portieres.

Khiva 'Fine, all-wool rugs of small size,made in Turkestan, the short, closepile being tied in Senna knot. Thedesign consists of octagonal figures orthe prayer rug pattern in rich reds,blue, ivory and a little green.

Khodar Coarse East Indian cotton fab-ric; used for garments 'by the na-tives.

Khokti Yellowish or brown cotton clothmade in India. It is very durable,smooth and glossv, the finest gradebein? similar to the best brown hoi-land.

Khoktibanga Variety of East Indian rawcotton, having a yellowish but good,strong staple.

Khombal iCoarse, plain East Indian woolblanket.

Khonia 'East Indian cotton shawl withrichly embroidered design.

Khorassan 1, variety of Persian wool, oflong, fine staple; 2, medium and largesize Persian rugs with close and me-dium long fine wool pile tied in Sen-na knot and clipped unevenly. Thepattern consists usually of fish orpalm design the latter having smallerones placed in each large one. Theborder usually has trailing palmleaves. Magenta and blue are char-acteristic colors.

Khoseb 'Originally a fine muslin fromElgypt; used for turbans.

Khudurangi 'Native East African namefor a coarse cotton fabric, dyed withhenna.

Khum (Dyed T cloth in Turkey; used for

long coats by the natives.

Khuskus, Cuscus The roots of this grass(Andropogon Muriaticus) are used in

India for mats and baskets.

Khustka iShawI from Southern Russia,embroidered with colored floral de-signs.

Kian Pakkian Cloth made of fine shredsof bamboo in Celebes.

Kichorkay 'An East Indian cotton cloth.

Kid Mohair taken from young Angoragoats.

Kidderminster Carpet 1, originally acoarse double-faced fabric of worstedwarp and woolen filling; 2, a triple

carpet cloth with two faces, the fig-

gures alternating on both sides, madewithout pile; called also Scotch car-

pet and Kilmarnock and ingrain in

the United States.

Kidney Cotton Trade name for Braziliancotton.

Kienchow Silk Foulard with pressed in

patterns, made in China; is about 16

inches wide.

Kikci or Kikoy A heavy gray cottonsheeting in the Eastern parts of

Africa, having yellow, black and redborder stripes; used for garments bythe natives.

Kilim See Khilim.

Kilmarnock 1, a coarse 18th centuryScotch serge; 2, see Kidderminster.

Kimcha See Camocato.Kinari Trade term for Persian pile run-

ners of various characters and ori-

gin.

Kincob Fast Indian silk muslin, occa-sionally richly interwoven with goldor silver; used for men's and women'sdresses.

Kindergarten Cloth Stout, heavy, plainwoven cotton fabric, usually madewith yarn dyed warp stripes. Thewarp is single yarn, two ends drawnin. The number of ends i.3 almostthree times higher than the numberof warps; used for children's clothes.

King Improved An early maturing com-mercial variety of prolific upland cot-

ton, the staple measuring 25-28 milli-

meters; the yield of lint is 32-34 percent.

Kinik Variety of Turkish raw wool.

KIN KOT

Kinji Shusu Japanese silk satin with apartly or completely gilded face; usedfor kimonos.

Kink 1, a snarl in a hard twiet yarn; 2,

in nautics to twist a rope.

Kinkale 'Light Bast Indian silk, brocadedwith silk or gold threads.

Kiotonan Chinese satin with damask fig-ures.

Kirbas Green hangings mentioned in

Esther I, 6. Believed to be of cot-ton.

Kirkagatsch Variety of raw cotton fromAsia Minor.

Kirmanshaw See Kermanshah.Kirriemuir (Modern twilled linen, simi-

lar to the material used in old em-broidered curtains.

Kir-Shehr Rugs IMade in Angora, AsiaMinor, the warp and weft are of dyedwool, the long pile is tied in GTiiordesknot. The Arabic designs are in bril-

liant greens, reds and blues. Thesides and ends are selvaged.

Kissmess (East Indian calico.

Kitay (Fancy colored Chinese silk andcotton cloth.

Kittool or Kitul iBlack, very coarse,straight, smooth, glossy and strongfabric, obtained from the leaves ofthe kittool palm in India and Ceylon;used for strong ropes, 'brushes, mats,etc.

Kleanka -A Russian buckram.

Knap tCoarse, blue woolen, used for sail-

ors' clothes in England.

Kneipp Linen Porous, rough faced,twilled linen fabric, made in Germanyand Austria; used for towels and un-derwear. Originally it was knitted.

Knib JTechnical term for knots, or un-even places on the silk fiber.

Knickerbockei Rough faced wool andcotton mixture dress goods, made withnub yarns. It comes in mixture colors.

Knickerbocker Yarns 'Yarns with colorednubs made ,by printing the card sliver.

Knit Goods 'Loose fabrics, elastic bothways, made of one or more continu-ous threads interlaced with itself andforming rows of loops holding eachother but not tied. They are madeeither with the weft thread, whenthey are called framework knitted orwith the warp, called warp knittedfabrics.In warp knitting the fabric is formed

iby interlocking the parallel warpthreads, forming one row of loopssimultaneously, as in shawls, scarfs,laces. The framework knitted fabricsare formed of horizontally knittedthreads, each row of loops beingformed of a single thread, asin plain and ribbed knitting.They are also classified into flat andtubular. (See crocheting.) They areused mainly for underwear, hosiery,sweaters, also for scarfs and of latealso for coating and suiting.

Knittinq Cotton, Wool or Silk .Smooth,soft spun yarn of various sizes; usedfor hand knitting.

Knittles In nautics, the strands of tworopes twisted together.

Knop Yarn Same as nub yarn in Eng-land.

Knopp Work iFramework knitting, withtwo sets of needles and Jacquard at-tachment, which regulates the accum-ulation of loops on certain needles andthus forms the design.

Knot There are two kinds of knots form-ing the pile in Oriental rugs, one is

the Turkish or Ghiordes, the otherthe Persian or Senna (see each). Thefineness of the rug is judged by thenumber of knots to a square inch.

Knotted Laces 'Made in Italy, Dalmatia,etc., by tying lengths of thread intoknots by the hands, the knots form-ing patterns like the macrame.

Knotted Work (Laces made by knots;either tatting or macrame.

Knub In England the very closely wov-en, hard and fine inner layer of thecocoon; used for waste silk.

Ko Hemp Very durable, soft, fine andsilky bast fiber, yielded by the Puer-aria thunbergiana in China, India andJapan; used for summer clothing fab-rics.

Kodrung (Same as Khudurangi.

Kogalla Yarn 'The best grade of coir

yarn made in Ceylon.

Koja Gray drill or four-leaf twill cottoncloth imported in Abyssinia and usedfor native dresses. The weave is

coarse with low grades of cotton orwaste in the filling. There are red,black or green stripes across both endsof the piece and along both selvages.

Koko Native Hawaiian name for a knit-ted or netted bag, made of coir or

hemp.Kokti See Khokti.

Kompon A plain woven, stout linen in

China; used for garments by the na-tives.

Konieh Rugs Heavy all-wool rugs, madein Asia Minor, the medium long pileis tied in Ghiordes knot. Many ofthe old samples have a hexagonalfield and rich colors. (Modern K.rugs have a great variety of colors.

The sides and ends are finished witha selvage.

Konje Native African name of the bow-string hemp fiber (see).

Koomach Cotton cloth in Russia, usu-ally dyed bright solid red, also indigoor green; used for blouses, women'sdresses, etc.

Korako Native name for the New Zeal-and flax, yielding fibers suitable forfine fabrics.

Korotes An East Indian coarse calico.

Kota -Plain woven cotton cloth importedin Abyssinia and used for nativedresses. It is about 30 inches wideand 14 yards long.

Kotzen 'Rugs and laprobes, made in Aus-tria of coarse goat's hair with a verylong hair on both sides.

KOU 89 LAG

Koujong Very soft, fine, twilled woolen,made in China.

Kron The best sort of Russian flax.

Kuba Oriental all-wool rug, having along and fine pile in light colors.

Kulah Rugs Made in Asia Minor; an-tique rugs of all-wool in prayer rugdesign with a fine short and close

pile tied in Ghiordes knot; red andgold brown were often used.Modern K. rugs are of large size, the

long and loose pile contains mohair.The colors and design are inferior.

Kulkan Richly brocaded silk shawls,made in Persia, similar to the cash-mere shawls.

Kumbi <Soft and silky seed fiber of theCochlospermum gossypium, a tree in

India; used for stuffing.

Kumerbands Coarse woolen shawl in In-dia, worn wrapped around the bodyby the natives.

Kurbelstickerei German term for ma-chine embroidery, the design beingof tape over a net ground; used for

curtains.Kurdistan Rugs 1, coarse and rough

rugs, made in 'Mesopotamia of all-

wool with a heavy, long and loose piletied in Ghiordes knot. Dark colorednatural wool is often used. The endsare finished with braided fringe; 2,

fine all-wool rugs made in Persia,the close short pile is tied in Ghiordesknot. The pattern consists of smallfigures covering the field, of a con-ventionalized blossoming tree or adiamond shaped center medallion inblues and reds. The end selvagescontain one strand of colored wool.

Kurk >Fine soft wool, yielded by a spe-cies of white goat in Persia; usedfor shawls, which are finished with ahairy back.

Kurkee A heavy and coarse Englishblanket.

Kurrijong Dark, tenacious bast fiber,

yielded by a species of the Commer-sonia in New South Wales; used fornets.

Kydia Strong inner toast fiber, yieldedby the Kydia calycina in India; usedfor ropes.

Kyrle Yarn Fancy woolen yarn; used forvarious overcoatings and dressgoods.

La A very strong and light mat, madeof the leaves of the pandanus in theTonga Islands: used for sails.

Label Cloth In England a heavily sized,

plain woven cotton fabric; used for

tags.

Laburnum Fine thin dress goods madewith silk warp and worsted weft in

a 2 and 1, warp face twill

LacA fairly fast orange or crimson dye,yielded by the dried bodies of the coc-cus laccae, an insect living on flg

trees. It was used formerly as mor-danted dye, but is very little in usenow.

Lace 1, an ornamental textile, formedwithout the aid of a ground fabric,in this differing from the embroidery.The real or hand-made lace is madeeither by the needle (point lace) oron a pillow by means of bobbins (pil-low lace). Machine lace is made bymachinery and is measured accord-ing to the number of warp threadswithin an inch, as six-point, ten-poimt, etc. See also artificial lace; 2,

a plaited cord or narrow tape of cot-ton or silk; used for shoes, corsets,etc.

Lace Bark Yielded by the Lagetta lin-

tearia tree in Jamaica. It is a finethin lace-like bast; used for dresstrimmings, hats, also for cordage.

Lace Cloth A sheer and light fabric,woven of fine yarn in leno or mockleno weave; used for dresses, etc.

Lace Work^-Open work hosiery.Lacet 1, silk or cotton braid used to

form patterns for laces, and, 2, lacemade of such braid.

Lacets Bleu 'French coutil (see); usedfor trousers.

Lachorias An East Indian cotton cloth.

Lacis Name for darned netting in thefifteenth century.

Lacovries An East Indian cotton cloth.

Lacs d'amour iFrench table linen, madein plain weave or with small dobbydesign; obsolete.

Lactic Acid Used in mordanting wool.

Ladder Braid Open work braid, madesimilar to a ladder; used for lacesand for trimmings.

Ladder !Stitch Used in embroidery andmade by running parallel or zigzagbars over an evenly wide space or byworking the bars on the material to

imitate the rungs of a ladder.

Ladder Tape Stout cotton tape; used forVenetian blinds.

Ladies' Cloth 1, variety of English light-

weight broadcloth, made in plainweave for women's wear, originallymade in light colors, as pink, scarlet,

gentian blue and apple green; 2, flne

napped face flannel, used for women'swear.

Ladik Rugs 'Small, all-wool rugs, madein Asia Minor; the weft is colored;the short and close pile is tied in

Ghiordes knot. 'Scarlet red and whiteare often used. The ends are fin-

ished with a red selvage.

Ladines Eighteenth century woolen fab-ric in England.

Lado Short, coarse but strong raw cot-ton of white color, grown in the Sene-gal Valley.

Lagetta See Lace Bark.

Lagos Variety of African cotton havinga moderately strong and coarse sta-

ple of brown color and very irregu-lar in length.

LAG

La Guyra Variety of West Indian cloth,having a eilky staple, very irregularin length.

Lahar Light weight soft crepe made ofcoHon warp and silk filling: obso-lete.

Lahore 1, knotted cotton and wool rugsmade in India. The design consistsusually of alternate rowe of palmleaves; 2, English dress goods, madeof cashmere wool.

Laid Wool Tarred on the back of theeheep.

Laid Work Embroidery, consisting ofcouching.

La ine French for wool.

Laine Brodee A two-fold yarn, made ofan open and firm Australia wool, andused as weft in genuine Beauvais andGobelin tapestries.

Laine de Carmenie Persian goats' hair.

Laine Elastique All-wool, dull black,light French dress goods made increpe and corded effect.

Laine de Terneaux Variety of Frenchmerino wool.

Laisot 'Strong French linen canvas o'good quality, made 48 inches wide.

iLaizes iFrench laces, consisting of aclear net ground and powdered pat-terns, in dots or small flowers.

Lake Fine medieval woolen fabric; usedflexible bast fiber, yielded by an In-dian shrub, and used for ropes.

Lai Murga Said to be a very strong,in England.

Lalio Several varieties of raw cottonsgrown in Kathiawar and Ahmedabad,India. The staple is fair, but usuallydirty with leaves.

Lama Plain or twilled flannel-like Frenchwoolen lining with a slight nap;comes in plain colors or stripes.

Lama-barchent In Germany and Aus-tria a very softly finished cotton fab-ric woven Tvith two sets of fillingthreads of different colors, one form-ing the face and the other the backand napped on both sides.

Lama Croise A light, twilled Frenchwoolen dress goods.

Lamba A very stout cloth in Borneo,woven from the leaf fibers of the cur-culigo latifolia.

Lambsdown A plated knit cloth, the facemade with very heavy and spongyfleece raised from slack twist woolenyarn, while the back is of hard spuncotton; used for children's coats, car-riage robes, etc.

Lamb's Wool Shorn from lambs whenless than a year old.

Lambskin A very closely woven cottonfabric, made in an eight-leaf, weftface satin weave, containing a verylarge number of picks. The fabrichas a woolly nap raised on the face;used for working clothes.

Lame Brocade woven with flat metalthread (tinsel), which forms eitherthe pattern or the ground of the fab-ric.

90 LAP

Lametta Thin metal thread used in bro-cades.

Lament A Highland tartan, composed ofthe following colors; *Dark greenstripe; white stripe, measuring lessthan half the width of the green-dark green stripe, repeated ; blackstripe, as wide as green; stripes ofdark blue, black, dark blue, black,each as wide as white one; dark bluestripe as wide as green; stripesof black, dark blue, black, dark blueeach as wide as the white; blackstripe, as wide as the green; repeatgroup described above between two *;black stripe, as wide as green one;dark blue stripe, as wide as green one-group of three stripes, black, blueblack, each as wide as white; bluestripe, as wide as green; black stripe,as wide as green.

Lamot Native Philippine name for Man-ila hemp.

Lamparillas All-wool or linen or silkwarp, lightweight fabric in solid col-or, stripes, or figures, made in Fland-ers in the eighteenth century.

Lampas 1, originally East Indian print-ed silks; 2, silk fabric, having satinwoven figures on a different coloredtaffeta ground; used for drapery andupholstery.

Lampas du Japon Rich French silk bro-cade, made with warp ribs; used fordress goods, drapery, etc.

Lamsa Better grade of calico used forinner coats in Persia.

Lana del tambor A Venezuelan silkyseed hair, grown on a species of theBombax tree; used for stuffing.

Lana Vejetale Variety of Venezuelantree cotton.

Lances General French term for fabricsin which certain of the filling threadsare crossing only a number of warpthreads, floating for the rest.

Lanella Fleece Proprietary name for afiber prepared from a grass; it iscarded with shoddy and used forcheap clothing.

Langet A heavy and inferior pillow lacemade in Holland, used on dresses bythe native peasant women.

Lanilla Hard worsted serge of mediumquality on the western coast of SouthAmerica.

Lanillas Eighteenth century worstedfrom Flanders.

Lannoy Sort of French velvet, now ob-solete.

Lansdown Soft dress goods made withsilk warp and worsted filling in athree harness twill weave.

Laos Silk crepe, made with raw silk

warp and tussah filling, the latter be-ing alternately two picks of righthand twist and two picks of lefthand.

Lap 'A wide layer of carded or combedfibers, wound on a roller, ready to bespun.

Lappa An East Indian silk brocade.

LAP 91 LIB

Lappet Weaving A process of decorat-ing plain woven or gauze fabrics withembroidery-like effect simultaneous-ly with the weaving of the ground.The pattern is formed by an extra

warp thread, heavier than the ground,trailing in the direction of the fill-

ing.

Laguary Variety of raw cotton fromColombia.

Larees Gray, bleached or printed cot-ton cloth in East India, importedfrom England.

Lashed Pile Weft pile fabrics, the pile

picks interwoven with three warpends after each float. This securesa fast pile.

Lasting A narrow and very stout Eng-lish worsted, woven with double orthree-ply warp, and single filling in

a five-leaf satin weave; used for shoetops.

Latile A grass; used for fine braids, etc.,

by the natives of the Solomon Is-

lands.

Lattice Braid Same as ladder braid.

Lattice Stitch In embroidery slantingbars are run across a long, narrow,open space, forming lattice work.

Lauhala Fine mats, made of pandanusleaves by the natives of Hawaii; usedfor covers.

La uie Large plant, similar to the pan-danus. The leaves are used by thanatives of Samoa for clothing mats.

Laval Various French linen fabrics.

Lavander Fine, bleached and figuredFrench linen; obsolete.

Lavena Fine, lightweight woolen dressgoods of natural color.

Laventine Thin silk lining.

Lawn A plain woven, very light, soft,smooth and sheer cotton or linen washdress goods, woven in gray or withbleached yarns, often printed afterthe weaving; is similar to cambricbut lighter.

Lay See lea.

Laying The doubling process in man-ufacturing ropes.

Lea Measure for wet spun linen yarn;it means the number of 300 yardcuts that weigh one pound. Twelveleas make a hank, 200 leas or 16%hanks make a bundle.

Lea Yarn Linen yarn spun accordingto the wet process.

Lead Sulphate 'A paste, used in print-ing with blue colors.

Lead Works In laces: see fillings, joursand modes.

Leamington Axminster Small size ma-chine-made Axminster rugs in lightcolors for bath rooms.

Lean Wool with a harsh handle; spinsunsatisfactorily.

Leather Cloth 1, a heavy woolen fabricmade in England; 2, stout, coarse coUton fabric, covered with a varnishlayer, grained and finished to resem-ble leather.

Lechuguilla Fiber yielded by the plantof same name growing wild in Mex-ico. The fiber is very strong, coarseand is used for bags, ropes, etc. Alsocalled ixtle.

Left Hand Twist Any single or ply yarn,the final twist of which is from rightto left.

Left Twill >Any diagonal twill, runnineto the left.

Legs See Bars.

Lehner Silk Artificial silk made accord-ing to the collodion process.

Leicester Good English wool, spinningabout 40s to 44s yarns. The staple is

very lustrous, light and long.

Leipzis Obsolete French wool serge,made in white or in mixed colors andabout 20 inches wide.

Leisure In England the selvage of vel-vets and silks.

Leno 1, a weave consisting in crossingcertain warp threads with each other,forming open work designs; 2, lightweight cotton or silk fabrics, havingtwo sets of warp, crossing' each otherin the weave; used for dresses,waists, etc. See Marquisette.

Leontine French silk dress goods, madewith two-ply warp in white, blue andblack colors.

Leslie Highland tartan, consisting of thefollowing: Wide dark green stripe;narrow black stripe; wide dark greenstripe; very fine white line; blackstripe, made a little narrower thangreen one; dark blue of same widthas the black; red stripe, as wide asblack between the green ones; darkblue stripe repeated; wide blackstripe repeated; fine white line.

Leucorhodina A medieval silk fabric ofvery pale pink color.

Levant Anatolian cotton, having a fair-ly long, harsh and strong staple ofwhite color.

''.evantine P o u r-1 e a f, d o u b 1 e-faced,closely woven silk serge, having sin-gle or ply warp. Comes mostly insolid colors, but also in stripes.

Leviathan Canvas Coarse, open canvasused for embroidery.

Leviathan Stitch Called also Railwaystitch; used in embroidery. It is

composed of three long stitches nextto each other crossed by a fourth inthe middle.

Leviathan Wool Thick, soft wool yarnfor embroidery.

Lewis Commercial variety of Americanupland cotton; now obsolete.

Liage 'French term for an extra warpwhich binds the extra brocade weftthread.

Libau Coarse Russian flax having un-clean fibers.

Liberty 1, originally an East Indian tus-sah silk cloth, printed in Europe; 2,

light, pliable and highly finished silkfabric; used for dresses, trimmings,etc.

LIB LIN

Libret Coarse, partly bleached or dyedlight blue linen cloth from Egypt,exported through Asia Minor.

Licella Yarn, made in Germany, bytwisting and gluing a strip of paper;not manufactured any more.

Liege Lace Obsolete Belgian bobbin lace

of the seventeenth and eighteenthcenturies, similar to the Binche lace.

Lienoillo Gray cotton goods in SouthAmerican countries.

Lienzo Unbleached cotton sheetings andshirtings in Argentine, Paraguay andUruguay.

Lif Name for the fiber yielded by theleaf stalks of the date palm in Ara-bia and Africa; used for ropes, coarsecloth, etc.

Ligature 'Lightweight, inferior Frenchbrocatelle, made of all cotton or cot-

ton and wool. The pattern consisted

usually of small checks, lattice workor large, colored flowers. Used forbed covers; obsolete.

Ligne Same as Line 2.

Lille Lace A bobbin lace, the earlier

specimens have straight edges, the

patterns being outlined with a heavycordonnet, the hexagonal ground is

a very light and fine mesh, each meshhaving two sides made of a singlethread and four sides of two threadstwisted together.

Lima Raw cotton from Peru; the stapleis rather coarse and harsh.

Lime Used in dyeing cotton with in-

digo or black.

Limerick Lace Irish needlework, execu-ted either by stitching patterns withheavier thread over machine made net

ground or by buttonholing the edgesof the pattern traced over lawn or

muslin, cutting away the ground andapplying the whole on machine madenet.

Limoges 1, coarse French bagging madeof strong hemp yarn; 2, a cotton andlinen cloth, made in colored stripefor beds in Switzerland; 3, an ob-solete French guipure lace.

Lin du pays Trade term for dew rettedflax from Premesques and Beau-camps, France.

Lincere The finest linen fabrics in an-cient Greece, made with double warpand single filling.

Lincoln Lustrous and thick Englishwool, used for yarns from 38s to 40s.

Lincoln Green A heavy English woolenfabric, dyed green; obsolete.

Linden Strong bast fiber, yielded by thelinden (lime) tree; used for cordage,mats, shoes, etc., in Europe.

Lindsay A Highland tartan, made asfollows: Wide rose colored bar, split

in the center with a pair of very nar-

now, dark blue lines; dark blue stripe

about one- fifth the width of the rose

bar; dark green bar, slightly narrow-er than rose one, split with a pair of

dark blue, narrow stripes near eachedge, these stripes being spaced fromthe edge and from each other theirown width; dark blue stripe, aboutone-fifth the width of the rose bar.

Line 1, name for hackled flax, which is

numbered either as warp numbers (forfine dressed line), the numbers, rang-ing from 25 to 100 indicating the leaof a fair warp yarn which can be

spun of that line. With the other num-bering, used in Scotland, the numberindicates the pounds per spindle of

14,400 yards of yarn; dressed line is

a thoroughly hackled flax; 2, stand-ard of measurement for the width of

ribbons, being 1-11 inch; 3, the rib

on the braid.

Line Yarn Linen yarn spun from thelonger flax fibers; syun up to 300 leas.

Lined WorkA twill, made by the sym-metrical combinations of the brokendiamond twills, like the bird's eye.

Linen Fabrics made of the fibers of theflax.

Linen Checks Blue and white striped orchecked all linen cloth; used fordresses and aprons.

Linen Weave Same as plain weave.Linen Yarn 'Spun of flax fiber. Dry spin-

ning, employed in Scotland, gives avery strong yarn; for wet spin-ning the flax fiber is first ma-cerated in hot water, which separatesthe fiber into its short, ultimate com-ponents; this is used for the fine

counts.

The systems for numbering linenyarn are:

In Scotch, dry spun yarn one spin-dle (or spangle) contains 2 hesps, or4 hanks, or 24 heers, or 48 cuts, or5,760 threads, or 14,400 yards.

In Ireland and England 1 bundlecontains 16 2-3 hanks, or 200 cuts, orleas, or 24,000 threads, or 60,000 yards.

In Austria one schock contains 12

bundles, or 60 pieces, or 240 hanks,or 4,800 cuts, or 288,000 threads.

The Dorset and Somerset systemtakes the weight of 21,600 yards(called "dozen" or 12 half hanks).

In France the pacquet contains360,000 yards.In Belgium the pacquet contains

180,000 yards.

According to the numbering basedon the metric system, the numbergives the kilometres (1,000 metres) ofyarn contained in one kilogram (2.2

pounds).

Linet French canvas, made of unbleach-

ed linen; used for lining.

Linge French for linen.

Lingerie Same as Cambric (see).

Lingette 1, obsolete lightweight woolserge made in France and England;2, name for several kinds of obsoleteFrench flaVinels, also for a bettergrade English flannel.

LIN 93 LOG

Lining A fabric usually made with cot-ton warp and wool o.r alpaca or silk

filling: used for lining garments.

Lining Felt Made of hair and asbestos,often mixed with plaster Paris; usedto insulate pipes and boilers.

Linneas Printed cotton goods in theAfrican markets.

Lino I'sed in England for leno (see).

Linoleum A floor covering made on bur-lap base. Oxidized linseed oil is mixedwith ground cork and othec pig-ments. This composition is rolledover the burlap base. It comes in

plain, printed or inlaid. The plainhas a uniform surface in one color;printed linoleum has patterns printedin colors; inlaid has patterns of dif-

ferent colored compositions which gothrough to the burlap base.

Linon Plain and closely woven fine, verylight, glossy, washable cotton or lin-

en fabric; used for dresses, waists,etc. It comes in white or solid colors.It is the French for lawn.

Linon a joui French linen gauze. Sameas gaze de fll (see).

Linsay Obsolete, twilled English clothof linen warp and woolen filling. SeeXiinsey.

Linsel 'French dress goods, made ofwool and linen; obsolete.

Linsey 1, strong, durable, coarse Englishcloth made of linen warp and worstedfiling in white, blue or stripes. Usedfor dresses by the country folk; 2,

rag sorting term, signifying any kindof wool fabric containing cotton, ex-cept carpets, dress goods and flan-nels.

Linsey Woolsey Obsolete, stout fabric,woven with linen warp and wool fill-

ing.

Lint 'Waste of cotton, produced in gin-ning, is about one-third of the wholeweight.

Linthee A Chinese silk taffeta.

Lintrees In France a silk fabric form-erly imported from China.

Lintrius, Lintheamina [Linen sheeting,used by the Anglo-Saxons.

Lion Obsolete French linen, made ofhard spun flax thread in plain weaveor with small dobby designs.

Lisardes 1, an East Indian and Persiancotton cloth; 2, a coarse Egyptianlinen cloth.

Lisere Stout, French silk cloth madewith weft brocaded flowers and Jac-quard figures with the warp.

Lisiere 'French for selvage.Lisieux 'Various French linen cloths,

made in the country; now obsolete.

Lisle Hard spun thread, made of longstaple, combed cotton, the yarn is

gassed and is used for hosiery andunderwear.

Lisse 1, French for warp; 2, a silkgauze used for dresses.

List The selvage. ,

List Carpet Made with strong cottonwarp and a filling of cloth list.

Listados 1, Cotton checks in Venezuela;2, blue and white or red and whitechecked linens or cottons made in

France, for the Latin-American trade.

Listed Fabrics having damaged selvage.

Listones Silk and velvet ribbons in Lat-in-America.

Litt Medieval name for dyed fabric.

Little Joans 'An eighteenth contuwyname for buntings, made in Eng-land.

Liuse Chienyong Scarlet red, cut silk

velvet from China.

Livery Coarse, matted and short skirt-

ing wool taken from English cross-bred fleeces.

Livery Tweed Very strong and durablewhipcord tweed, made of wool in

England. Used for uniforms and liv-

eries.

Lizard In nautics a rope with severalrings spliced into it.

Llama 1, long, very smooth hair ofbrownish or black color, yielded by theSouth American llama; 2, a unionshirting, both the warp and filling

containing about one-third of cottonand the rest wool.

Llama Yarn 'Made of a mixture of cot-ton and wool.

Llanchama Native Brazilian name forthe interior, fibrous bark of the cou-ratari tree; used for clothing, ropes,etc.

Loaded See Weighted.

Loaf Cotton Raw cotton formerly grownin Montserrat, West Indies.

Lochrea Coarse, bleached Irish linen.

Lock 'A tuft of wool.

Lockout Wool with a stringy formation.

Lockram Coarse, medieval linen fabric,originally from Brittany, made In

plain weave and inferior quality. Alsoa coarse French linen fabric; obso-lete.

Locks Ln wool-sorting the odds and endsand sweepings.

Locrenan Coarse, stout, unbleachedFrench hemp fabric; used for sails.

Loden A thick, fulled, soft fabric, madein Austria and Germany. It is wovenof wool or admixture of camel hair,and is quite waterproof without be-ing treated chemically. Used lorcoats, sporting clothes, etc.

Lofty A firm bold wool having an ex-panding staple.

Logan 'A Highland tartan, made as fol-lows: Dark green stripe; a group,somewhat narrower, composed of red,black, yellow, black, red stripes ofeven width; dark green stripe; blackstripe, wider than green; dark bluefield (over four times wider thanblack stripe), traversed by fine redstripes, spaced from each other thedistance of their width; black stripe.

Loghouse Quilting See Canadian patch-work.

LOG 94 LUM

Logwood A very deep and permanentblack dye obtained from the chippedwood of haematoxylon Campechian-um, a tree in Central America andsurrounding islands. It is used for

dyeing silk, which is mordanted andloaded previously by various salts.

Lona Inferior, loosely woven cottonduck, made or used in Latin Americafor sails, clothing, etc.

London Shrunk A permanent shrinkingimparted to woolen and worsted fab-rics. The goods are dampened first

heavily with cold water and after-ward dryed in open air or betweenheated plates, taking care not tostretch the fabric. This process is

slow but prevents any subsequentshrinking.

Londres^Very wide, fulled woolen dressgoods of English origin. See alsoLondrin.

Londrin 'Light, fulled French and Eng-lish woolens exported to South Amer-ica and the Levant.

Loneta A cotton canvas in Paraguayand other South American countriesand a 28- tinch wide cotton duck forsails in Chile.

Long Cloth Plain and closely wovenbleached or printed, fine and soft cot-ton fabric; used for underwear. It

has very little sizing and is oftengassed.

Long Cross Stitch In embroidery a varia-tion of the cross stitch (see) the twostitches crossing each other, formingnot a perfect square but an oblong.

Long Ell Twilled English fabric madeof hard spun single or two-ply wors-ted warp and woolen filling. Largequantities exported.

Long NoilThe best grade of silk noilsin England.

Long Poll In England a plush with shag-gy pile.

Long Staple (Long cotton or wool fiber.

Long Stitch Similar to satin stitch (see).

Long Wool Long wool staple, combed forworsteds.

Longotte iPlain woven French cottoncloth, much heavier and stouter thancalico.

Longuis East Indian checked taffeta.

Loom Figured 'Fabrics having patternswoven in the loom as against printedor embroidered patterns.

Loom Finished 'Fabrics sold in the statethey are taken from the loom, with-out any finishing.

Loonghie See Lungi.

Loop Pile Like that of the terry fabricor the pile formed by the warp beforecutting.

Loop Stitch Used in embroidery to pro-duce picot effect.

Loop Yarn Made of a hard spun binderthread and a heavier and looselytwisted yarn, the latter forming loops.

Looped See full regular.

Loose Back Trade term for quilts, hav-ing the stitching warps floated on theback. Also name for welts where thewadding fillings are not interwovenwith the warp.

Loretto Obsolete rich silk fabric; usedfor vests.

Lorna Forte Heavy cotton duck, made in

Portugal.

Lotanza A white linen cloth in Cuba.

Louis Quinze Lace Imitation tape lac-The patterns are made of braid andconnected with bars.

Louisiana A number of commercial va-rieties of short staple upland cottonfrom Louisiana and neighboringStates.

Louisine Lustrous, light silk dress goodswith twice as many warp ends than'fillings to the square inch. Usuallyeach pick crossing two wanps at once,thus forming warp ribs.

Lousiness Flaw in silk or cotton cloth

showing speedy spots in the finished

goods.

Love A very sheer, plain silk fabric in

England.Love Ribbon .Black or white, narrow

gauze ribbon with satin stripes; ob-solete.

Lover Linen Imitatior Irish linen ex-ported to America.

Low-end Woolens 'Another name forwoolens made of shoddy or very shortwool fibers.

Low Middling iFull cotton grade. SeeCotton.

Lowry 'Name of an improved cylindricalcotton bale formed from a continu-ous flat coil, fastened with wire ties

and enclosed in 'bagging. Averageweight 250 pounds.

Lucca Cloth Medieval fabrics woven ofsilk and gold or silver in Italy.

Lucky Minny's Line Fibrous stem of the

Algae; used for flshing lines in Scot-land.

Luftspitze "Is a lace made on shuttle ma-chine in cotton over a wool founda-tion or in silk or wool on cotton foun-dation. After the embroidering is donethe foundation is destroyed withchemicals which do not affect thework itself thus leaving a lace like

product.

Lukchoo Chinese fabric, about 16 incheswide, made of silk and cotton. It is

often blue and is used for clothing.

Lule Term applied in the Levant mar-kets to very thick Oriental rugs of

heterogeneous origin. These rugs arenot folded but rolled.

LumberHine Very sheer black gauze;used for women's dresses and veils

under Henry VIII of England.

Lumineux A lightweight French silk

fabric, made in variegated effect and'finished with a luster; used for mil-

linery trimmings.

LUM MAC

Lump In the English trade cloths woven130 yards long and 90 inches wide totoe split and cut into half lengths;also any fabric which is woven doubleits length it is sold in the market.

Lumps Plain woven, bleached cottoncloth made in England 32 inches wide,with 64 ends and 64 picks in a squareinch; used for calicoes.

Luneburg Flax A fine variety of Germanflax.

Luneville Lace 'French narrow bobbinlace made of hemp thread with doubleground, now obsolete. At the presentbobbin-made flower sprigs are sewnto machine-made net.

Lungi Cotton cloth used in India, Ara-bia, etc., for garments. The bodyis of email 'blue and white checks, theselvage is composed of various coloredstripes and a narrow red stripe is

running lengthwise in the middle.

Lupis 'Native name for the fine, whiteand glossy fibrous layer of the Musatextilis; used for delicate fabrics inthe Philippine Islands.

Lusca Silk fabric of unknown construc-tion of the Middle Ages.

Lustering 'Finishing process which pro-duces a gloss in the face of the fab-ric through pressing, calendering, etc.

Lustre 1, the natural 'gloss of the mo-hair, alpaca, the Leicester Lincoln andother wool or the gloss imparted tothe face of any fabric in the finishingprocess; 2, a plain woven fabric, wov-en in the gray made with cotton warpand mohair, alpaca or some lustrewool filling; usually dyed black orblue; used for coats, skirts, etc

Lustre Lining In England a lining fab-ric, made with cotton warp and a mo-hair or lustrous worsted filling. It

is woven in 4 and 1 weft twill.

Lustre Orleans 'English fabric of the 19thcentury, made with cotton warp andbright Yorkshire or Lincolnshire woolfilling.

Lustre Wool English long wool, havinga strong long and glossy staple; usedfor dress goods. Lincoln and Leices-ter are included, also the wools grownin Indiana and Kentucky.

Lustre Yarn Glossy hard spun woolenyarn, made of long, soft and lustrouswool.

Lustrene Lightweight, twilled and mer-cerized cotton lining.

Lustrine "Figured silk or wool satin, madein France. The flower patterns areproduced with an extra warp; theback is plain. The fabric has a highfinish.

Lutestring 1, narrow black silk ribbon,used for eyeglasses; 2, fine, warpribbed silk dress goods of high fin-ish.

Luxor A soft, ribbed silk satin; used aadress fabric; also an obsolete Frenchwoolen dress goods.

Lyme Regis Lace Fine bobbin and needlepoint laces made in England duringthe 18th century; now obsolete.

Lyons Thread Gold filled thread withcopper core; used for braids, trim-mings, etc.

Lyre A woolen fabric, believed to be ofgood quality, mentioned in 15th cen-tury English manuscripts; textureunknown.

M

Maaypoosten An Indian silk dress goods.

Mabroum 'Lightweight, plain woven cot-ton fabric, made of native cotton inDamascus and used for garments bythe natives; obsolete.

Macalister A Highland tartan, the com-position of which is as follows: Theground is red, traversed by very nar-row pale blue and white lines, darkblue stripes and green stripes of twodifferent Widths*. 'These lines andstripes are arranged in groups, in

every instance a very narrow stripeof the red ground being visible be-tween the parts of each group. Thesegroups follow in order: *>Pale blueline, wide green stripe, pale blue line;

stripe of red ground, the width of thewide green stripe; white line, widedark blue stripe, white line, two nar-row green stri'pes, white line, narrowdark blue strrpe, white line; 'strip ofthe red ground, the width of thewider green stripe; repeat groups de-scribed above between the two *, Inreversed order; wide strip of the redground; pale blue line, wide greenstripe, pale blue line; strip of the redground, the width of the wider greenstripe; white line, narrow green stripe,

pale blue line, white line, pale blueline, narrow green stripe; strip ofthe red ground, the width of the widergreen stripe; narrow green stripe, paleblue line, white line, pale blue line,

narrow green stripe, white line; stripof red, the width of the wider greenstripe; pale blue line, wide greenstripe, pale blue line; wide red stripe.

MadAllister Commercial variety of up-land cotton, same as Peerless.

Macalpine A Highland tartan with a darkgreen ground, arranged as follows:Wide green strip, siplit in the middlewith a narrow black stripe; a groupof stripes (twice as wide as the greenstrip) composed of two black stripes(about twice the width of the blackin the middle of the green) at the edgeof the group with two very wide blackstripes inside. One of these wideWack stripes is split with a whiteand the other with a yellow narrowstripe in the center, the order of thewhite and yellow being the same in

each repeat.

Macana A closely and plain woven fine

cotton fabric, made with coloredchecks.

MAC MAC

Macarthur A Highland tartan, composedof the following on a dark greenground: Yellow stripe with a greenbar on each side, eix times its width;black stripe, twice as wide as theyellow; green stripe somewhat nar-rower than this black; black bar,about 6 times as wide as yellow stripe;green stripe, as above; black stripe,twice as wide as the yellow.

Macaulay A Highland tartan, with a redground, composed as follows: A verywide red field, split by a black stripein the middle; dark green stripe, two-and-half times as wide as black; redstripe, as wide as black one; darkgreen bar, the width of the blackstripe and half of the red field; this

green bar is split in the center by anarrow white line; red stripe, thewidth of the black one; green stripe,two-and-half times as wide as blackone.

Macbean A Highland tartan, the brightred ground of which is traversed bywide groups of stripes, in which the

white, black and green lines are verynarrow and of equal width and thedark blue stripes are about half thewidth of the green and dark red ones.

The arrangement of the stripes in a

group is: *White line, blue stripe,black line, white line, black line, blue

stripe, white line, black line, greenstripe, black line, white line, narrowstripe of the ground, dark red stripe

(split with green line), narrow stripeof the ground, white line*, greenstripe; repeat stripes and lines men-tioned between the two *, in reversedorder. Red ground, somewhat less

than half the width of the entire

group.

Macbeth A Highland tartan, composed asfollows: 'Yellow stripe; black stripe,somewhat wider; group of white line,black line, white line, black line, totalwidth same as black stripe; greenstripe, twice as wide as black*; redstripe (twice as wide as green), split

by two black lines and a white line

between, spaced; repeat group de-scribed between two *, in reversed or-

der; dark blue stripe, just half thewidth of the entire complete group of

stripes.

MacBrlde Commercial variety of a me-dium long staple upland cotton; nowobsolete.

MaciCall (Late maturing commercial va-riety of upland cotton from SouthCarolina, the staple measuring 22-25millimeters; now obsolete.

Macdonald A Highland tartan, one repeatof which is as follows: Very widegreen stripe, split by two pairs of redstripes, those on the outside beingabout twice as wide as the inner ones;iblack stripe, one-quarter the width ofthe green; red line; dark blue stripe,the width of the green one and splitthe same way with two pairs of red

stripes.

Macdonald of Clanranald A Highlandtartan one repeat of which is: A widefield of dark green, split in the middleby a white stripe a.nd at each sidea narrow red line and a red stripe(wider than the white one) the linesand stripes sipaced; black stripe, samein width as the distance between theouter red stripe and the edge of thegreen .field; narrow red line; dark bluefield (about four-fifths the width ofthe green one), split by a pair ofred stripes (as wide as in the greenfield) the space between these stripesand the edge of the blue field beingequal to the width of the black stripe.

Macdonald of Slate A Highland tartanwith a bright red field. Wide, darkgreen stripes are placed almost fourtimes their own width from eachother; one-third the width of thesestripes, and on 'both of their sides arevery narrow green stripes.

Macdonald of Staffa A Highland tartanwith a bright red field, on which thestripes are arranged as follows: 'blackline; red stripe with a narrow greenstripe near to each edge; dark bluestripe, half the width of the red; redstripe, as wide as the first red one,split in the center by a narrow whitestripe*; green stripe, as wide as thered and split with a fine, narrow lineof white; red field, three-and-halftimes as wide as the green stripe, splitwith six dark green, two black andfour dark blue stripes, arranged asfollows: Green near to each edge, in

the center are two pairs of blues, witha pair of green stripes on each side,the inner stripes having a black stripenext to them; repeat group describedabove between two *, in reversed or-der.

Macdonell of Glengarry A Highland tar-

tan, made as follows: Black stripe;narrow red line; blue field, four timesas wide as black stripe, split by twopairs -of narrow red stripes, of whichthe outer ones are about twice aswide as the inner ones; red line;black stripe, as above; dark greenifield, as wide as the dark blue, splitby 2 pairs of red stripes of samewidth and position as found in theblue field and with an additionalwhite line between the two pairs.

Macdougal A Highland tartan composedof the following: 'Fine green line, nearto much wider, dark green, red anddark green stripes of even width; graystripes, narrower than the former, split

by a fine red line in the middle; darkblue stripe, wider than green; red

stripe (as wide as the first red) split

by a fine green line; green field, threetimes as wide as red stripe*, graystripe, apllt with white and edged withred line on each side (this group be-ing as wide as red stripe) ; repeatgroup described between two *, in

reversed order; large field of red (thewidth of the two green fields and the

gray stripe between) split by a fine

white line in the center, with a nar-row gray stripe on each side of thewhite line, spaced its own width.

MAC 97 MAC

Macduff A Highland tartan composed asfollows on a red ground:. 'dark blue,a wider black and a still wider darkgreen stripe, next to each other*; redstripe (as wide as the above group),split into three even parts by twonarrow black stripes; repeat groupmentioned above between two *, in

reversed order; red field, made some-what wider than red stripe.

Maceio 1, coarse bobbin lace made ofcotton in Brazil; 2, a variety of Bra-zilian cotton, having a soft, pliablestaple.

Macewan A Highland tartan, composedof dark green bars on blue and blackground and split by red and yellowlines.

Macfarlane A Highland tartan, composedas follows: 'Dark green stripe, bor-dered on the outer edge with a blackand on the inner edge with a white,

line; a narrower red stripe, split witha black line; dark blue stripe, bor-dered on the outer edge with a fine

white line on the inner edge with aheavier 'black stripe; narrow red

stripe*

; wide white stripe, splitwith a dark green stripe; re.peat

group mentioned between two*, in

reversed order; bright red field, be-

ing half the width of the entire groupof stripes.

Macgillivray A Highland tartan, compos-ed as follows over a red ground; widered field, split by a pair of narrowpale blue stripes, each edged with afine dark blue line on the outside;*pale blue stripe, of same width; verynarrow red stripe; dark blue stripe,as wide as pale blue and red stripescombined; very narrow red stripe;dark green stripe, as wide as darkblue and red combined*; red stripe(as wide as dark green, dark blueand two red stripes combined) split

by a narrow dark blue stripe in themiddle with a narrow pale blue stripeon each side, these stripes spaced theirown width; repeat group describedbetween two *, in reversed order.

Macgregor A Highland tartan, composedas follows, over a bright red field:

Group of three dark green stripes, themiddle one being a little wider. Thisone is split by a white stripe, whichin turn is outlined by fine black lines.

The green stripes are spaced one-thirdtheir own width from each other in

the group, the red space between eachgroup being the width of two greenstripes and a red between combined.

Machine Cotton In England cotton threadused in sewing machines.

Machine Lace A large variety of cotton.wool or silk laces, made on machines.

Machine Twist Three-ply silk thread,spun with left hand twist.

Macinnes A Highland tartan, composedas follows over a bright red ground;red stripe; group of two black andtwo red stripes of even width, entirewidth same as former red stripe;black stripe (over twice as wide asfirst red stripe), split by a narrowpale blue stripe in the middle; group

of two red and two black narrowstripes, as above; red stripe, same asfirst one mentioned; 'yellow and red

stripe of even width; dark blue stripe,as wide as yellow and red together;red and black stripe of even width,as wide as dark blue; dark green,twice as wide as dark blue, next to

black, with another black stripe alongits other edge*; red stripe, one- thirdof which taken by a white stripe; re-

peat group described above betweentwo*, in reversed order.

Macintosh A Highland tartan with abright red ground; the design is com-posed as follows: *dark blue stripe;a narrower red stripe; green stripe, aswide as the first two combined; *redstripe, as wide as the green, split bya narrow blue line in the middle; re-

peat, in reversed order, group de-scribed between two *; wide red bar.

Macintyre 'Highland tartan, composed asfollows on a dark green field: Twowide, dark blue stripes, each split bya red stripe, spaced from each otherby the width of the red stripes; darkgreen bar (as wide as two dark bluestripes and space between together),split by a white stripe in the middle.

M ac I ver Commercial variety of late ma-turing upland cotton from South Car-

olina, the staple measuring 22-2'5 mil-

limeters; the yield is 30-32 per cent.

Mackay <A Highland tartan, composed asfollows over a dark green ground: Ablack, two dark blue and another blackstripe of equal width, spaced fromeach other by one-eighth of their ownwidth; green bar (as wide as a blackand blue stripe, with a spacing be-tween combined), split by a blackstripe, as wide as green spacing.

Mackenzie 'A Highland tartan, composedas follows: 'Dark green bar, split bya narrow white stripe, which is edgedon each side by a black line; black

stripe and dark blue stripe, each aswide as green on each side of abovenarrow group*; narrow red stripe,

edged with black lines, as wide aswhite and black group; repeat, in re-

versed order, stripes described be-tween two *; black stripe, as above;dark blue bar, twice as wide as black

stripe, split near each edge by a pairof fine black lines; black stripe, asabove.

Mackinaw A heavy double fabric, madein striking colored patterns of all-

wool or mixed with shoddy; it is moreor less felted and finished with a goodnap; used for coats.

Mackinaw Blanket Very heavy, all-woolblanket, dyed red, blue or woven in

stripes; used for camping and outdoorlife, as it is almost waterproof.

Mackinaw Flannel Very heavy, napped,woolen fabric, usually red or blue;used for shirts, etc.

MAC 98 MAC

Mackinlay A Highland tartan, composedas follows: *dark green stripe, one-third of which is occupied, in the cen-

ter, by a red stripe, edged with blacklines*; wide black stripe, half of en-tire green striipe; dark blue stripe,three times as wide as black, splitnear each edge by a pair of narrowblack stripes; wide black stripe, asabove; repeat group described betweentwo ; wide black stripe, as above;dark blue stripe (twice as wide asblack stripe) split by a pair of narrowblack stripes in the middle; wide black

stripe.

Mackinnon Highland tartan, composed asfollows, over a red ground; *Greenstripe; red stripe, split with white andedged with black; next to black darkgreen stripe, twice as 'wide; red stripe,twice as wide as green; narrow greenand wider dark blue, next to eachother, as wide together as greenstripe; narrow red stripe; wide greenstripe, somewhat wider than wide redstripe; red stripe, less than half thewidth of former green stripe; groupof dark blue and green (of equalwidth and placed next to each other)as wide as red stripe just mentioned;"group of red, black and red stripesof equal width, each as wide as halfof the former group; repeat, in re-

versed order, groups mentioned be-tween two *.

Mackintosh Cloth treated with rubber;sometimes two layers of cloth areunited with pressure, having a rub-ber layer between; used for raincoats.

Maclachlan A Highland tartan, com-posed as follows: "'Wide rose bar,

split by one pair of narrow blackstripes placed near one edge andspaced evenly from each other andthe edge; wide black stripe, as wideas former two narrow black stripesand two rose spaces; dark blue bar,about three times as wide as wideblack stripe, and split by a greenstripe in the center; wide black

stripe*: rose bar as wide as blue

bar, and split in the center by a pairof narrow black stripes; repeatgroups mentioned between two *, in

reversed order.

Maclaine of Loehbuie A Highland tartan,

composed as follows: Two dark greenstripes, with a pale green between, of

equal width, and next to each other,

the pale green being split by a yellowline in the center; red bar of the samewidth as combined group.

Maclaren A Highland tartan, composedas follows: Dark green bar, split in

the center by a narrow, yellow stripe,

which is edged by black lines, eachgreen stripe being further split by anarrow, red stripe, placed nearer to

the outer edge; black stripe aboutone-eighth of green field; dark blue

bar. slightly narrower than greenfield.

Maclean of Duart A Highland tartancomposed as follows: * Wide, darkgreen stripe; a group (narrower thangreen stripe), containing a fine line ofblack, white, black, yellow, a stripeof black and line of pale blue *; darkblue stripe, as wide as above group;repeat, in reversed order, groups men-tioned between two *; red field (as wideas entire complete group above) splitin the center by narrow lines in paleblue with black between, placed veryclose to each other.

Maclennan A Highland tartan; see de-scription under Logan.

Macleod A Highland dress tartan, com-posed as follows: Three wide blackstripes, divided by very narrow yel-low lines; wide yellow bar (somewhatwider than former group), split in thecenter by a narrow red stripe.

Macmillan A Highland tartan, composedas follows: Wide yellow bar, split by anarrow crimson line in the center,each half being split again in the cen-ter by a wider crimson line. A crim-son bar, as wide as the yellow one,split near to the edge by a yellowstripe and in the middle by a pair ofifine lines.

Macnab A Highland tartan, composed asfollows: Wide red stripe, split in thecenter by a narrow crimson stripe;crimson stripe (more than half thewidth of the red stripe) split by twonarrow dark stripes, and spaced theirown width and placed near the edgeaway from the rep stripe*; dark greenstripe, measuring half the width of'first red one; repeat group mentionedbetween two*, in reversed order.

Macnaughton A Highland tartan, com-posed as follows: *Wide green stripe;black stripe, half of the green; darkblue stripe, half of the green*; redstripe, about two and a half times aswide as the green, split by a dark'blue stripe (half of the green), thisbeing split again by a fine black line;repeat group, in reversed order, men-tioned between the two*. In thefilling the wide red stripe is split bya solid dark blue stripe, half the widthof the green.

MacNeil A Highland tartan, composed asfollows: Black stripe; dark blue stripe(more than twice as wide as black),split by a white stripe, which leaves oneach side a blue stripe equal in widthto the black; black stripe; dark greenstripe, as wide as the blue, split inthe center by a narrow stripe, out-lined by blue, the green on each sideis as wide as the black stripe.

Macnicol A Highland tartan, composed ofblack and green stripes and black,green and pale blue lines on a redground.

Maco Variety of raw cotton from Egypt.

Maco Foot Black hosiery, knitted withnatural color cotton foot.

Maco Yarn 'Made of natural coloredEgyptian cotton.

MAC MAD

Macphee A Highland tartan, composedas follows over a bright red ground:Wide dark green bars with narrowgreen line along each side (spaced its

own width) ; these groups of three areplaced from each other farther thantheir width, each alternate red spacebeing split by a fine white or yellowline.

Maopherson 'Several Highland tartans.The dress tartan is composed as fol-

lows: Wide red stripe, divided intothree even parts by two narrow darkblue lines; * green stripe, as wide asone section of the former red and ablue line combined; very fine yellowline; black stripe, as wide as a singlesection of the red; dark blue aibouttwice as wide as the black, split in thecenter by a pair of fine black lines *;red stripe, as wide as dark blue, splitin the center by two fine white and'between these two fine black lines,all placed very close to each other;repeat, in reversed order, group men-tioned between two *.

The hunting tartan is composed ona gray ground: Wide bar of black,edged on each side and split in thecenter by a group of red, blue, andred stripes, the blue being almosttwice as wide as the red edges; graybar, somewhat narrower than theblack (exclusive of the edge groups),split by a group as above.

Macquarrie A Highland tartan "with ared ground, composed as follows:Wide stripe of dark green; red field,a little over three times the widthof green stripe, split near to eachedge by a pair of closely spaced verynarrow green stripes.

Macqueen^A Highland tartan, composedas follows: Wide red bar, divided intofour even parts by three narrow blackstripes; a black bar, considerablywider than the red, split in the cen-ter by a narrow yellow stripe.

Macrae A Highland tartan, composed asfollows: *Dark blue stripe, split inthe center by red line; a narrow whiteline, separated from the blue stripeby a narrow red line, is along eachedge; red stripe, wider than the blue,split in the center by a pair of close-ly spaced green lines *; green stripe,wider than the red, divided into threeeven parts by two narrow red lines;repeat, in reversed order, groupsmentioned between two *; red field,as wide as the two wide red andgreen stripes combined, divided intofive equal parts by four groups ofclosely spaced groups of three darkblue lines each, the middle line ineach group being somewhat widerthan the lines on the outside and theblue groups measuring the samewidth as the red, between the groups.

Macrame A heavy and coarse lace made'by tying threads into intricate knotsto form geometrical patterns; sim-ilar to the knotted lace (see); it is

usually finished with a fringe. It is

of Arabian origin.

Madagascar Lace 'Has the threadstwisted into loops and scallops; madeby the natives of Madagascar.

Madam 'Soft finished white shirting In

Turkey.Madapolam 1, originally a bleached cot-

ton fabric of East India, stout andplain woven, and occasionally print-ed; 2, plain woven, sized cotton fab-ric, heavier than chiffon; used for

embroidery foundation in German,Swiss and Austrian factories, andalso for shirts; 3, various fine bleach-ed cotton muslins in Servia.

Madai Strong and silky seed hair,grown on the giant Asclepias in In-dia.

Madder A plant, called Rubia tinctor-ium, grown in Asia, the root of whichyields a rich and fast scarlet dye;used formerly on cotton and wool.Now displaced by artificial dyes.

Madder Bleach A name still used to de-note the most complete form ofbleaching for cotton piece goods. Thegoods are singed and shorn, washed,boiled in lime, treated with sulphur-ic or muriatic acid, boiled in lye andtreated with bleaching powder.

Madeira Embroidery Is worked uponfine cambric in eyelet patterns, sim-ilar to the modern English embroid-ery.

Madeira Lace The early specimens arecoarse torchon laces; afterward bob-bin laces made in imitation of ma-lines and other laces.

Madonna Fancy English alpaca cloth ofthe nineteenth century.

Madrapa A coarse East Indian muslin.Madras 1, East Indian cotton, having a

short but fairly strong staple ofgolden brown color; it contains largequantity of dirt; 2, a curtain mate-rial, the foundation being a squaremesh net, the designs being formedwith short colored threads run inparallel; 3, early in the nineteenthcentury a dress goods made of mix-ture silk and cotton; 4, a washable,lightweight cloth, made with a whiteground in plain weave and narrow,colored warp stripes, sometimes form-ing cords. Usually made of all cot-ton, but is also mixed with silk; usedfor shirts, summer dresses, etc.

Madras Gauze A very light fabric, thefoundation of which is in gauzeweave, the designs being formed byan extra heavy weft; the floats arecut away; used for dresses, etc.

Madras Goods Cotton goods made inIndia for exports; made off whitewarp and black, blue or brown fill-

ing, both warp and filling being aboutNo. 12 yarn.

Madras Hemp Trade name for Sunnhemp.

Madras Lace Black and white silk andcotton bobbin lace, made in M. inMaltese patterns.

Madras Muslin Sheer cotton fabric,made in leno weave and having anextra filling of much lower countthan the ground filling. This extraweft forms the figures.

MAD 100 MAL

Madras Work Consists of embroidered,bright colored madras handkerchiefs.

Madras! Native East African name forTurkey reds.

Madui Grass mat made in India.

Magnesium Chloride Used as dressingmaterial.

Magnetic Pure linen cloth, made in Ger-many and Belgium and bleached inHolland.

Magpie Black and white patterns onveilings and laces.

Magrabine Coarse, half bleached Egyp-tian linen cloth.

Magruder Two commercial varieties ofearly maturing American cotton, thestaple measuring 25-30 millimeters;the yield is about 33 per cent.

Maguey Very long, white and soft leaffiber yielded by the Agave Ameri-cana (century plant) in the Philip-pines and by the aloe in CentralAmerica and Porto Rico; used forcordage, fishing lines, nets, etc.

Mahlida An East Indian cloth, made ofthe fine wool of the cashmere goat.

Mahoe or Mahaut Soft and white fiber,yielded by the hibiscus plant in theWest Indies and Central America;used as substitute for hemp.

Mahoitre Shoulder wadding used underEdward IV. in England.

Maholtine Bast fiber of good quality,yielded by a species of the abutilonplant in tropical America and India;used as substitute for jute.

Mahot Pincet Very strong bast flber,yielded by a species of the lagettain South America; used for cord-age.

Mahout 1, in the Levant trade a fineand light, fulled cloth, made in Eu-rope, of fine Spanish wool; 2, also acoarse woolen fabric, used in Egyptand Asia Minor for garments.

Maibafi Very thin Japanese reeled silk.

Mail Cloth A highly finished silk clothwoven like honeycomb; used for em-broidery foundation.

Mailles de bas Plain French serge dressgoods, having eight leaves and fourpicks in a repeat.

Majagua Very long bast fiber, yieldedby the Hibiscus tiliaceus of CentralAmerica. Does not deteriorate inwater.

Makaloa Fine mats, made with coloredgeometric patterns of the youngleaves of a sedge, Cyperus laevigatus,in Hawaii; used for garments, etc.

Makat Light, twilled woolen cloth, dyedin light colors, made in France forTurkish blankets.

Makatlik Turkish name for Orientalrunners; used as divan covers.

Make Same as the construction of thefabric.

Makko-jumel Raw cotton first among-those cultivated in Egypt. Now en-tirely superseded by other varieties.

Malabar East Indian catton handker-chiefs printed in brilliant contrastingcolors.

Malachra Long, fine and silky fiber ofthe Malachra capitata in the WestIndies; used for ropes.

Malasap Coarse fiber used for cordagein the Philippines.

Malborough See Malbrouk.Malbrouk Obsolete French wool serge,

made very smooth, with small de-signs. It had a hard twist, singlewarp. The spacing of the warps andthat of the picks was about equal.

Malcolm 'A Highland tartan, composed asfollows: Dark green stripe; group ofthe same width as green, composedof black, pale blue, black, yellow and'black lines of equal width; darkgreen stripe, as above; black stripe,as wide as green; dark blue stripemore than twice as wide as green,split in the center by a pair of closelyspaced fine red lines; 'black stripe, asabove.

Malefique A stout, twilled Belgian wors-ted fabric; used for bags in pressingoil.

Malella Medieval silk fabric of unknownconstruction.

Malgaran Trade name in America forvarious Central Asiatic rugs of un-identified origin.

Malicques A silk satin; obsolete.

Malida East Indian fabric, made ofgoat's hair; the best grades containlarge proportion of the hair of theThibet goat.

Maline Trade name for hexagonal openmesh, plain net of silk or cotton, us-ually finished with size; comes inblack and white; used for trimmingdresses and millinery.

Malines^A stout, plain woven worstedof two or three-ply warp and singlefilling of a different color.

Malines Lace Bobbin lace with sprigsor dots outlined with a heavier cor-donnet over a hexagonal or roundmesh ground. It is made in one pieceof white flax thread.

Mali no Very long, strong leaf fiber,

yielded by the aloe in Hawaii; usedfor cordage.

Mallius A commercial variety of shortstaple, prolific upland cotton fromLouisiana.

Malmal "Native East African name forbleached cotton muslin. Also gener-ic term for the finest cotton muslinsin India, often embroidered in gold.See also Mull.

Malo A very fine netted fabric in Ha-waii, made of olona fiber, and usedfor loin cloth by the natives. Oftenfeathers are sewed to it.

Malta Jute Coarse, East Indian vege-table fiber.

Maltese Lace^Heavy bobbin lace show-ing arabesque and geometric designswithout any ground, made of whiteor black flax or silk thread.

MAM MAR

Mamaki Fibers yielded b ythe Pipturusalbidus in Hawaii; used for coarsecords and ropes.

Mammoth Two commercial varieties of

late maturing upland cotton fromGeorgia, the staple measuring 28-30

millimeters ;t'he yield is over 30 percent.

Mamoudie 1, various East Indian cali-

coes; 2, natural colored, closely wo-ven cambric from the Levant.

Mamoudis Very soft, fine, yellowish lin-

en, originally from Persia.

Manchester Cottons 1, originally woolenfabrics made formerly in England,measuring 22 yards in length, three-

quarter yard in width, and weighing30 pounds at least; 2, at the presenta great variety of cotton fabrics madeat Manchester, England.

Manchester Velvet All-cotton velvetmade in England with plain weaveback.

Manchu Crepe Cotton or silk crepe,made with very fine warp stripes of

colored silk thread.

Mandarine French fabric, woven withcotton warp and silk filling.

Mandrenaque Cloth from the Philip-

pines made of cotton warp and palmfiber filling.

Mandypyta Raw cotton from Para-guay, yields a reddish brown staple;used for ponchos.

Mandyu Native name of three kinds ofraw cotton in Paraguay, yieldingwhite staple.

Manganous Chloride Used as fixing andprinting agent.

Mangled Hessian >A smoother and moreglazed burlay (see) than the ordin-

ary.

Manila Hemp Very light, tenacious andlustrous fiber, yielded by the Musatextilis in the Philippine Islands;used for ropes and for the finest

sheer fabrics.The principal classes are current,

fair current and brown. The old pri-vate marks, as UK, daet, etc., havebeen replaced by the following set of

standard, made compulsory by law;Fair, medium, coarse and coarsebrown. The fiber is also called veryshort (less than 4 feet), short (4 to5 feet), normal (5 to 8 feet), long(over 8 feet).

Manillese^Embroidered and often knot-ted drawnwork made of agave fibers

in the Philippine Islands.

Manipulated Goods Those containingsubstitutes.

Manirito A useful fiber, yielded by thebark of a species of the sour-sop inVenezuela.

Manta 1, in Central America, term for

gray cotton sheetings; 2, in Colombia,various kinds of cheap cotton fabricsor plain woven goods.

Manta Blanca Bleached cotton sheetingin Mexico.

Manta Triquena Unbleached cottonsheeting in Mexico.

Mantel Grijn Cross ribbed Dutch cam-let, made with two-ply goats' hairwarp and worsted filling, having warpribs.

Mantelle A medieval English worsted.

Manto Plain black shawl, worn by Chil-ean women; usually made of wool ormixed with cotton.

Mantua Black and colored silk fabrics,originally from M., Italy; now ob-solete.

Maolao su Chiyong Scarlet red Chinesesilk velvet.

Map Mounts Inferior, sheer and plainwoven cotton muslins in England;used for mounting maps.

Marabout 1, white silk thread used forcrepe, made of three strands twist-ed together very hard, and dyed inthe gum; 2, a very light silk dressfabric, or ribbon, similar to the crepein appearance, woven of maraboutyarn in plain weave; 3, five or eight-leaf, silk satin; used for millinery.It is made with single warp.

Maracapas A Philippine fiber; used forropes.

Maragnan Formerly the best grade ofraw cotton grown in the West In-dies; now less known.

Maranham Raw cotton from Brazil withglossy, yellowish and strong staple,sometimes quite dirty.

Maranta Tropical American plant, yield-ing leaf fibers used for mats.

Maratarong^Philippino name for acoarse fiber used for cordage.

Marble Cloth Book cloth, made of cot-ton, usually paper lined.

Marble Silk Medieval silk fabric, wov-en with various colored wefts in amarble effect.

Marbled Cloth A silk and wool dressgoods in England, woven with a. mot-tled face in various colors, produced.by multi-colored weft.

Marbre A medieval French worsted,woven to imitate the veins of themarble.

Marbrinus Worsted fabric, woven ofdifferent colored yarns, imitating theveins of the marble; used for churchvestments and often embroidered inEngland; obsolete.

Marceline A plain woven silk fabric,woven with single warp and withone or more picks in one shed; alsoa plain woven, lustrous French silkdress goods, made with two-ply warpand single filling.

Marcella A fine cotton pique; used forbedding in England.

Marchey East Indian calico of fancycolored checks and stripes.

Marduff Native name in East Africa for

stout, twilled gray cotton fabrics;used for tents, sails and nativedresses.

Marengo Obsolete, French pulled wool-en cloth, made Mack, slightly shotwith white. It is made in plain ortwill weave and is used for over-coats.

MAR 102 MAT

Margherita Italian embroidered, ma-chine-made net.

Marguerites-Obsolete French dress goodsmade of wool, silk and linen; notfulled. It was woven with a highwarp.

Marie Antoinette Curtain, having ap-plique sprays, flowers and leaves ofcord and tape.

Marine Fiber iPoseidonia Australia, ob-tained from the bottom of the gulf inSouth Australia. The fiber is notvery strong and is brittle when dry.It is believed to be New Zealand flax

submerged and rotted in salt water.It has good affinity for basic dye-stuffs, but acid, salt and sulphur dyesproduce little result. This fiber has'been discovered only lately and wasexperimented with as wool substitutefor cheap clothing and rugs but noeatisfactory result was obtained.

Marine Stripes Good quality English cal-ico shirting of equal stripes in blueand white.

Market Bleach Trade term for bleachedcotton fabrics which are usuallystarched and calendered.

Marking Cotton Cotton thread, usuallydyed blue or red; used to embroiderthe outlines of a pattern.

Marl Single or two-;ply yarn in Eng-land, used for filling; It is made in twocolored effect, usually one color twist-ed around the other.

Maryborough Obsolete English twilledwoolen, the warp and weft being ofdifferent colors; the cloth is finishedwith a high gloss.

Marli 1, obsolete French gauze of vari-ous construction, made with largemesh; used for curtains and stiffen-ers; 2, obsolete French bobbin lace,made with point d'esprit patterns overa net ground.

Marli d'Angleterre French silk gauze,made with two sets of warp; obso-lete.

Marmato A medieval silk and gold bro-cade; said to be identical with ar-ramas.

Marocs French woolen eerge, of variousqualities, made with a nap on theface.

Marquise Finish High gloss imparted to

fine cotton satins.

Marquisette A very light and sheer, lenowoven cotton or silk fabric with anopen mesh.

Marry-Muff A coarse fabric worn by thecommon people in medieval England.

Marseilles A stiff, double faced, quiltedwhite cotton cloth, similar to pique,made in plain weave with large em-bossed patterns; used for shirt bos-oms, men's vests, women's dresses,bed covers, etc.

Marseilles Quilt Is a double cotton cloth,

composed of two plain woven fabrics,one warp being the stitching warpand one weft a heavy wadding filling.

The figures are embossed, formed byInterweaving all threads with eachother, but the two fabrics are notunited at the ground.

Marseilles Work. Consisted originally ofoutlining flowers and other ornamentswith stitches over a previously paddedlinen or canvas ground.

Marsella Heavy, bleached, twilled linen,given a soft finish.

Marston Commercial variety of late ma-turing cotton from Louisiana, the sta-ple measuring up to 30 millimeters;the yield is 30-31 per cent.

Martin Commercial variety of late ma-turing, prolific cotton from Louisiana,the staple measuring 26-30 milli-meters; the yield is 30 per cent.

Martiniques An 18th century woolen fab-ric in England.

Masalia 'Lightweight cotton fabric, wov-en in a twill, producing moire effect.It is given a smooth, glossy finish.

Mascades Silk cloth, used in Latin-America as head cover.

Mascaret Loosely woven, high finisJiedworsted satin with woven figures.

M ash ru 'Fabric made of mixture of wooland cotton in India, for the use oforthodox Mohammedans.

Maskati 'Native East African name forfancy woven cotton fabrics; used forturbans, loin cloths, etc.

Maskel >A l'5th century lace in England,made with spots.

Masloff 'Wide, stout, Russian woolendress goods.

Massiru 'Plain woven, light East Indiansilk cloth; used for garments.

Mastic Cloth 'Embroidery canvas wovenin alternate wide stripes of basketweave in cotton and waste silk satin.

Mastodon Commercial variety of shortstaple upland cotton from Mississippi;now obsolete.

Masulipatam Inferior knotted rugs madein India.

Mat 1, in nautics, made of old ropes, in-terwoven and beaten flat; 2, in handmade laces the closely filled part ofthe pattern.

Mat Braid Heavy, pleated worsted braid;used for binding.

Mat Weave 'See Basket weave, or hop-sack weave.

Mata 'Plain woven gray cotton shirtingin Central Asia; used for shirts anddrawers; made 11 inches wide.

Matabie General term in East India forall fabrics having woven or printedgold or silver patterns.

Matapalo Fibrous bark, yielded by a spe-cies of fig tree in Peru; used for gar-ments by the Indians.

Matching Process in wool sorting; con-sists in grouping the parts of corre-

sponding quality from various fleeces.

Matchings The different sorts of woolinto which the fleece is divided in woolsorting.

Matelasse Originally a padded silk mate-rial, the ornamentation produced byquilting in the loom; Jacquard figuredfabrics made with mohair or silk fill-

ing or warp woven with floats.

MAT 103 MEN

Material-General name for light and nar-row denim, and cottonades in theBalkan States.

Matheson A Highland tartan, composedas follows: Wide red field, split in thecenter by a group of five dark greenstripes, of which the middle one is

much heavier, each pair on the sidebeing fine lines; *dark blue stripeabout one-eighth of the red field; darkgreen stripe (as wide as the blue) splitin the center by a pair of narrow redlines; red stripe, somewhat narrowerthan the blue; two narrow green andred lines alternating; dark bluestripe, as above*; dark green stripe,twice as wide as the blue, divided intothree equally wide parts by two nar-row red lines; repeat in reversed or-der, group described between two*.

Matka East Indian fabric, made of spunsilk.

Matrimonio Soft finish, bleached cottonbed sheeting in Venezuela; about 52inches wide.

Matta Short staple cotton grown on thelowlands around Pernambuco, Brazil.

Matthews Commercial variety of veryprolific, long staple, early maturingAmerican cotton; the staple meas-uring 35-40 millimeters; the yield is

29 per cent and above.

Matting Oxford Trade name for oxfordshirting (see) made in mat weaves.

Mattis 'Late maturing commercial va-riety of American cotton, the staplemeasuring 25-30 millimeters; the yieldof lint is 30-32 per cent.

Maubois 'French droguet made of silk.

Maud Scotch wool plaid in natural graystripes.

Mausari Thin, open face but coarse cot-ton fabrics, made in India; used formosquito netting. Generally made incheck pattern.

Mauritius Hemp Trade name for thestrong leaf fiber, yielded by the Fur-craea gigantea in 'Mauritius; used forcordage, gunny bags; similar to sisal.

Maurvi Very strong thread made of aspecies of hemp in India.

Mauveine A bright, but fugitive violet

dye, derived from the -coal tar, theifirst of this kind discovered by Wm.Henry Perkin in 1856.

Mawata Waste silk of duppious in

Japan.

Maxey 'Commercial variety of prolificAmerican cotton, the staple measur-ing 30-35 millimeters; the yield is

30-32 per cent. Also called MeyersTexas.

Maxwell A Highland tartan, composed asfollows: A wide green stripe, split bya red stripe in the center; on eachside of green stripe, and separatedfrom it by a red stripe is a blackstripe, about one-fifth the width ofthe green stripe; a red field (as wideas the group measured between theouter edges of the two black stripes),split in the center by a pair of nar-row green lines.

Mayenne A fine, bleached French linen.

Mayo Name for a twill, producing short,zigzag figures in alternate colors.

Mazamet A sort of French melton.Mazarine Obsolete woolen fabric, dyed

dark blue; used in France and Eng-land for magistrates' robes.

M bocaya 'Long, durable and strong leaffiber, yielded by the Cocos sclero-carpa in South America; used for netsand other fabrics by the natives.

Mecca Rug iSee Shiraz.

Mechlin Lace 'Same as Malines lace.

Mechlinet .Now obsolete, fine Englishwaistcoating made of cotton and lin-en.

Mecklenburgh 1, 18th century woolenfabric in England, sometimes madewith silk flowered patterns; 2, stoutEnglish wool damask. The ground is

of colored hard twist warp stripeswith colored flower patterns.

Mecomba ^Native East African name forthe cloth-like bast, obtained from the(Brachystegia tree; used by the na-tives for clothing.

Medicis 'French bobbin lace, similar tothe Cluny.

Medium Cloth 'English woolen dressgoods, in quality between the fineSpanish stripes and the broad cloth.

Medley Cloth A mixture cloth, dyed inthe wool, originated in the early partof the 17th century in England.

Meermaid's Lace See Venise point.

Megila 'Indian name for jute cloth.

Meherjun Coarse Persian carpet wool.

Mekla Coarse cotton fabric in India;used for skirts by the native women.

Melange 1, French for mixture effect; 2,

yarn spun from printed top; 3, coloreffect on fabrics woven from suchyarns.

Meles Rugs 'Small, coarse, all-woolrugs made in Asia 'Minor; the looseand short pile is tied in Ghiordes knot.Very bright reds, blues and yellowsare usually used in a great variety ofdesigns. The sides and ends are fin-ished with a selvage and there is afringe at the ends.

Melimeli Native East African name fora thin bleached cotton muslin.

Melis iFrench hemp sailcloth.

Melton Fabric made of all-wool or cot-ton warp and woolen weft; the faceis napped carefully, raisins the napstraight, which is shorn to show theweave clearly; used for ouits, coats.

Memphis French woolen dress goods; ob-solete.

Mende 'Fine, smooth French serges ofvarious grades; used for lining.

Mending One of the finishing processesin cloth manufacturing. It consistsof repairing the broken places in thecloth (after it was taken from theloom) with the yarn woven.

Mending Bagging 'Coarse and heavy,plain woven jute cloth; used for

mending torn cotton bales.

MEN 104 MIG

Mending Cotton A two strand, soft spunthread, made of combed cotton; usedfor mending hosiery.

Menin Lace 'Bobbin lace, similar to theValenciennes (see) with the threadsof the mesh ground twisted three anda half times.

Menouffieh Variety of Egyptian cotton,having a good, silky staple.

Menzies A Highland tartan, composed asfollows: Wide red field; "two whitestripes with a narrower red between,the group being about one- third thewidth of the red field; red stripe, aswide as a white and the red stripetogether in the previous group*;'White stripe (as wide as the justmentioned red stripe and the grouptogether) split near each end by anarrow red line; repeat, in reversed

order, the stripes mentioned betweenthe two *.

Meraline 'Narrow-striped, all-wool dress

goods in England.

Mercerized Cotton Cotton fiber, madelustrous by treating it with causticsoda at normal temperature and un-der tension to prevent shrinking. Mer-cerized cotton has stronger affinity

for dyes.

Mercerized Wool 'Wool is treated for abrief period at a low temperature in

an 80 degree Tw. solution of caustic

soda; this gives a high lustre to thewool and strengthens it, but the fiber

cannot be felted after.

Mercerization Process by which cotton

yarn or cloth is given a silky lustre bytreating it under tension in solution

of caustic soda. If the cloth or yarnis not under tension, it does not takea lustre but shrinks and becomesthicker and stronger. This is usedto produce crepe effect in union cloths.

Cotton cloth is also mercerized in

stripes or patterns by printing, thus

producing crimp effect.

Merezhiki All-white hand embroideryover linen, made by the peasants in

Ukraina, Russia.

Merino ir breed of sheep, originally from

Spain, yielding the finest wool; 2, a

fine and na.rrow cotton fabric, usedfor dresses in the Philippines; 3, a

French shawl made with two-plymerino wool warp and wool or silk

filling; 4, knit goods made of mix-ture of cotton and wool; 5, a woolenfabric, made in England of shoddy,obtained from soft woolen or worsteddress goods; 6, a twilled Englishworsted fabric, made of very fine

single merino yarn, either face andback alike or with twilled face and

plain back.

Merinos Damasse A French Jacquarddress goods, made of merino wool;obsolete.

Merletto Italian for lace.

Merveilleux 1, diagonal silk lining, givena lustrous finish; 2, a very fine and

heavy silk satin, with a twilled back.

Meseritsky Wide, stout, Russian woolendress goods; exported to China.

Mesh The open spaces in nets, knitting,crocheting and lace.

Meshhed Rugs Medium and large sizedall-wool Persian rugs with mediumlong pile tied in Ghiordes knot. Thedesign has usually very large palmleaves placed diagonally and also ani-mal forms. Deep blue and red arethe characteristic colors.

Meshi 'In the Bible means silk.

Messaline 'Fine, supple silk dress goodsmade with fine silk filling in satinweave.

Messel lawny An English woolen fabricof unknown structure; used in the17th century.

Mestiza 'South American name for amerino wool, yielded by the cross of

pure merino and the native creola

sheep.

Metl 'Native name in Yucatan for theagave fibers.

Mexicaine 'French silk dress goods andribbon made with narrow stripes andsmall figures on a taffeta founda-tion.

Mexicans A variety of gray English cot-ton goods, made for export; wovenwith well sized, coarse warp and me-dium fine filling, containing about 72

threads each way.

Mexican Embroidery (Made with ingraincotton, silk or wool on muslin, cam-bric or linen; used for dresses, tow-els, etc. Usually only outlines of the

patterns are embroidered.

Mexican Grass Same as sisal hemp (see).

Meyers Texas Commercial variety of

prolific upland cotton, the staplemeasuring 30-95 millimeters; the yieldis 31 per cent. Also called Maxey.

Mezeline Light weight, inferior French

brocatelle, made of all-cotton or cot-

ton and wool, with patterns of small

checks, or large, colored flowers; used

for bed covers; obsolete.

Mezzettta 'Raw silk from Sicily.

Mhabrum Thin, loosely woven, twilled

cotton fabric made in Asia Minor;used for garments.

Midani iSilk warp faced fabric with cot-

ton filling, having narrow colored

stripes divided by narrow white

stripes; made in Asia Minor.

Mi-fils The finest and thinnest Frenchcambric.

Mi-florence 'Light, plain woven silk lin-

ing, finished with a high gloss.

Mi- torse Malf twisted French embroid-

ery silk.

Middling Full cotton grade. See Cotton.

Middling Fair Full cotton grade. SeeCotton.

Mignardise Crochet work using narrowbraid to form the body of the pat-tern.

Mignonette 1, plain cotton netting; used

for curtains; 2, French calico with

small pattern.

MIG 105 MOC

Mignonette Lace Narrow bobbin lace oflightweight made in the 16th centuryand 17th century of white flax thread;used for headdress. The mignonettepattern is very small and delicate.

Migot In France a sort of Spanish wool.

Mikado A fine and light all-silk taffetain England.

Milan Braid A corded flat mohair braid;used for trimming.

Milan Point Originally plaited gold andsilver lace and reticella. Later fine

needle-point laces, made with scroll

designs, large flat flowers in clothstitch. At the present a machine madelace, the design outlined with silk.

Milanaise In France a silk yarn with acotton core.

Milanese Knitted fabric with very fine

gauge, with almost equal elasticityboth ways. It is a warp knitted fab-ric made with flat bearded needlesand thread laying attachment; uee3for underwear.

Milanese Lace An embroidered drawnwork, made of abaca by the nativesof the Philippine Islands.

Mildernix 'Medieval sailcloth used in

England.Mildew Flaw in dyed silk goods caused

by the failure of the broken filamentsto absorb the dye.

Military Braid Flat, coarse ribbed wors-ted, braid; used for trimming uni-forms.

Milk and Water An English fabric of the16th century; structure is unknown.

Mill Ends Remnants, seconds, short endsof fabrics woven at the mills.

Mille Point Twilled English woolen, of

high finish, with small patterns.Millerain An English waterproofing pro-

cess.

Mille Raye Originally a percale withmany narrow black and white stripes;also a modern cotton and silk dressgoods with numerous, very narrowstripes.

Milled 'Same as fulled or felted.

Miltons Thick and well fulled woolensuiting; used for hunting garments in

England; came usually in brown, redand blue colors.

Mina Cloth Stout twilled cloth of wooland cotton,

Minas Geraes Variety of raw cotton fromBrazil.

Mineiro Sort of raw cotton from Brazil.

Miniature .French silk dress goods, hav-ing small flowers formed by floatingfilling threads; obsolete.

Minikin Bay^A 17th century coarse Eng-lish worsted cloth.

Minorca Twilled, silk and linen cloth;obsolete.

Minpow Generic term in the Cantonmarket for a variety of cotton goods,mostly imported.

Minter 'Late maturing commercial vari-ety of prolific upland cotton, the staplemeasuring 22-25 millimeters; theyield is 30-32 per cent.

Mirecourt Lace Originally a French bob-bin lace, similar to Lille (see), latelybobbin made sprigs are appliqued on-machine net ground.

Mirganji Indian jute of a fairly strongbut harsh fiber.

Mi roil French for the gloss given thefabrics in the finish.

Mirror Velvet Has the long silk pilepressed down in different directions.

Mirzapur Knotted wool rugs, made inIndia. The design is usually floralin cream and deep red colors.

Mispick A flaw in the texture of thecloth, consisting of irregular cross-ings of the warp and filling; caused"by the imperfect shed in the loom.

Mistral (Plain woven, sheer worsted dressgoods woven with nub yarns.

Mitafifi Variety of Egyptian cotton, hav-ing a fine, long, strong staple of darkbrown color; extensively cultivated.

Mitcheline Quilt <A double cloth, wovenwith two sets of wa/rp and two setsof filling, the figures formed by in-

terchanging the two fabrics. The twofabrics are united together through-out the entire structure.

Mitkal 'Narrow cheesecloth or cottonsheeting, gray or bleached, made inRussia.

Mixed Checks 'English striped or checkedfabric, the white stripes being of lin-

en and the color of cotton.

Mixed Fabrics Contain more than onekind of fiber.

Mixing 'The blending of several varietiesand grades of cotton or wool to ob-tain a uniform average as to color,

strength and length of the fibers.

Mixture 1, yarn which is spun of fibersin more than one color but each kindof 'fiber being only of one color; 2,

fabric woven of such yarn.

Mixture Crepe (Made of silk warp andhard spun cotton filling; used for

dresses, waists, etc.

Mock Leno Light cotton, linen or silk

fabric, made all white, or with coloredstripes. In the weave regular openwarp stripes are formed by the inter-

lacing of groups of closely placedwarp and weft threads, without be-ins deflected from their relative par-allel position. The groups are sepa-rated from each other by a certaindistance. It is similar in effect tothe leno (see).

Mock Quilting English cotton cloth, sim-ilar to pique but not as closely woven.

Mock Satin Strong, stiff weft faced woolsatin with flower patterns woven into.

Mock Seam Hosiery in England, the legof which is cut and the foot fashioned.

Mock Twist A fancy single yarn; usedfor dress goods, similar to the doubleand twist (see) but the two colorsare not outlined as sharply and reg-ularly. It is produced by intermit-tent feeding of dyed and undyed stockin the spinning frame.

MOC 106 MON

Mock Velvet Obsolete English nappedwoolens.

Mockado or Mokario Fabrics used for

ciothing in the 16th and 17th centuriesin England. 1, one was a woolen fab-

ric, often mixed with silk, heavilynapped and woven with figures; 2,

another solid colored napped woolenfabric was also called mock velvet.

Modena 'Light weight dress goods fromItaly, made of mixture of silk waste,cotton and wool.

Moderne Thin French cloth made of mix-ture of waste silk with cotton or

wool.

Modes In bobbin and needle-point lacesvarious stitches which fill out the pat-terns. Also called fillings, jours andlead work.

Modica Raw silk from Sicily

Moff A silk cloth from South Russia.

Mohair Very long, straight, fine and lus-

trous white hair, yielded by the ajir

gora goat in Asia Minor, the CapeColony and the United States. It

--has no felting properties; used for

dress goods, plushes, lining, braids,etc. 2, lightweight, plain or twilled

glossy and smooth dress fabric, madewith silk wool or cotton warp andmohair filling, forming little patterns.It is dyed in the piece, although the

warp is often dyed before the weav-ing.

Mohair Braid Black or colored braid in

England; made of two cords woventogether.

Mohwal 'Bast fiber of the Bauhinia vahliiin India; used for ropes.

Moina Commercial variety of a prolific

upland cotton, having fine, long staple;is somewhat obsolete.

Moire The "watered" effect given in the

finishing process to mostly silk butalso cotton and wool fabric. Thiseffect is produced in various ways;1, see moire antique; 2, the fabricis passed between engraved cylinderswhich press the moire design into theface. This moire is not as lasting asthe first one. Ribbed fabrics are bet-ter adapted for both these moire ef-

fects, although many smooth fabrics,like taffeta, are treated this way.

(Besides these moire effect is pro-duced by printing the fabric, the vari-

ous colors overlapping each other;moire effects are also obtained by cer-tain weaves.

Moire Anglaise 'Same as moire antique.

Moire Antique To produce this finish thefabric is folded lengthwise with face

in, the selvages coverine a"h oth >r

and stitched together. The fabric Is

then dampened and passed betweenhot cylinders. This1 moire is lastingand shows the greatest variety of de-

signs.

Moire Francaise Moire made in stripes.Another variety called moire ronde.

Moire Imperial All-over watered effect

of undistinct design.

Moire Metallique A frosted watered ef-

fect on silks.

Moire a Pois 'Moire silk fabric, wovenwith small satin dots on the face.

Moire Poplin Is a poplin dress fabric,made of wool and given a moire fin-

ish.

Moire Ronde The designs are like therings of a tre, all similar to eachother; also called moire francaise.

Moirette Plain woven cotton fabric, madeof fine warp and thicker polished fill-

ing, finished in a moire effect bypressing.

Moiting Process which consists of pick-ing out all sticks, leaves, etc., fromthe wool fleece in the sorting.

Mojo Very tough, durable bast fiber of

good elasticity, yielded by the m. treein Honduras; used for ropes.

Mokho Raw cotton grown in Senegam-bia. The staple is fine, silky andwhite.

Molaine In England various fabrics,made of cotton warp and wool fill-

ing.

Moleskin A very strong, stout, smoothcolon fabric, made with one set of

warp and two sets of filling, of thesame yarn, spun two picks on theface and one pick on the back, theformer combined with alternate warpends, forming a modified satin weave.The back filling is combined withevery warp end forming a three-endweft twill. It is used for workingmen's clothes.

Molinos -1, in Austria a plain woven cot-ton fabric, made of medium fine yarn;it is often printed and is used for

shirts, etc.; 2, variety of Mexican rawcotton, has a yellowish, glossy staple.

Mollet In France, a very narrow fringeof silk or gold.

Molieton French for melton.

Momie Cloth Black dyed dress goods of

cotton or silk warp and wool filling.

It is similar to .crepe.

Momme Japanese weight, equal to 3.75

grams, used to measure and expressthe weight of silk fabrics.

Moncahiard, Mocayar -Plain or twilledFrench fabric of silk warp and woolenfilling. It is made mostly black.

Mon-Chirimen A very fine Japanese silk

crepe of high lustre, used for em-broideries.

Money Bush 'Commercial variety of up-land cotton from Mississippi, yield-

ing a medium long staple; somewhatobsolete.

Monks' Cloth Medieval English worsted,the piece measuring 12 yards by 45

inches.

Montagnac A soft and bulky twilled

woolen overcoating, the warp is en-

tirely hidden by the filling. An extra

set of effect filling, made of veryslack twist woolen yarn, floats on the

face, and is napped and made into

tufts or curls in the finish. Real mis made of cashmere wool.

WON 107 MOS

Montbeliard Stout French ticking, madewith blue and white checks or cross

stripes.

Montcayer Fine French dress goods,mostly in black, made of silk warpand two or three-ply worsted in plainor twilled weave.

Monteiths English cotton handkerchiefswith white dots over a colored foun-dation.

Montichicour An East Indian fabricmade of silk and cotton.

Montserrat Variety of raw cotton fromEast India.

Monzome Shusu Japanese silk satin,woven with stripes.

Moon Commercial variety of Americancotton, maturing in medium time, the

lustrous and strong staple measuring30-35 millimeters; the yield is 31-33

per cent.

Moonga 'Species of brown colored wildsilk yielded by the Antheraea in As-sam and East India. See Muga.

Moorish Lace-^-A drawn work of antiqueorigin, still made in Morocco.

Moorva Long and very strong leaf fiber;

yielded bv the sansevieria plant in

India; used for ropes, nets, etc.

Moquette Formerly term for Brussels

carpet; now sigrvirfies a plush similarto Utrecht velvet, woven in two lay-

ers, face to face, the pile warp pass-ine from the lower to the upper cloth

and vice versa; after weaving the

pile is cut in the middle between the

two grounds. Used for carpets andrugs.

Moqui Cotton cultivated by the MoquiIndians in Arizona, U. S. A. Thestaple is short, coarse and of green-ish polor.

Moqui Blanket Plain woven, all-woolbla"kts made by *he Moaui Indiansin the U. S. A. The design consists

mostly of black, blue and brownstripes.

Mora Hair Curly fibers yielded by thept^ro of the Southern moss, in theGulf states and Centra/1 and SouthAmerica; used for stuffing.

Moravian English sewing cotton of 8

strands.

Mordants Variety of chemicals (salts)which when united with certain dyesattach these to the fabric in shapeof insroluble colors, mostly lakes.

Mordanting The process of impregnatingtextiles with some mordant, not dye-stuffs themselves but usually salts,

which will fasten the dye appliedafter.

Morea Variety of raw cotton fromGreece.

Moreas Fancy striped satin of cottonwarp and silk filling, finished withhigh gloss.

Moreen 1, originally a Dutch, all-worsted,cross ribbed camlet, with a moire fin-

ish; 2, a plain woven stout fabric,made in England, one side ribbed andwatered and the other made smoothwith a high finish. It is made of hardspun worsted, but also of cotton, in

the latter case the filling being polish-ed yarn. Used for skirts (formerly)and for upholstery.

Morees 'English cotton muslin for theAfrican trade.

Morenos In South America several

grades of unbleached linen, im-ported from France.

Moresque Name for designs made in amixture of two colors in Brussels or

Wilton rugs.

Morfil tStout, twilled, Belgian worstedfabric used for bags for pressing oil.

Moriche Very tough and durable leaffiber yielded by the Ita palm in Vene-zuela; used for cordage.

Morris Rug Closely woven modern Eng-lish rugs, dyed with vegetable dyesand having simple floral, usuallyacanthus designs. Named after Wil-liam -Morris, its originator.

Morrison A Highland tartan composedof green, black and blue stripes andwhite and yellow stripes over a red

ground.

Mortling Name in England for wooltaken from dead sheep.

Mosaic Canvas Very fine embroiderycanvas, made of silk or cotton.

Mosaic Lace 'Modern Venetian bobbinlace, the patterns being composed of

many small sprigs and medallions

applied to a net ground.

Mosaic Rug A cut pile rug, made in Eng-land, the pile of which is glued in

colored pattern to a canvas founda-

tion, instead of woven to it.

Mosambique 1, woolen dress goods withthe nap raised in squares, dots or oth-er 'figures; 2, a light, sheer Frenchfabric, made with yarn dyed cotton

warp and mohair filling; comes in

stripes and checks.

Moscovite A dress silk, woven with or-

ganzine warp and cotton filling, form-ing ribs; comes mostly in light col-

ors.

Moscow 'Heavy, shaggy woolen overcoat-

ing.

Moscow Canvas Made in fancy patternswith gold, silver, blue and blackthreads interwoven, resemblingplaited straw. Used for embroidery.

Mosquito Bar Similar to mosquito net-

ting, having several warp and weftthreads placed closer to each other at

regular intervals.

Mosquito Netting An open face, verylight cotton fabric, woven in gauzeweave, dyed in solid colors.

MOS 108 MUN

Moss Yarn Coarse woolen yarn of fuzzyor nubbed surface, used for embroid-eries.

Mosses Large hanks of reeled silk,weighing about one pound each, pro-duced by the natives of China in thehome industries.

Mossing In England same as napping.Mosul Embroidery The Oriental patterns

are filled closely with herringbonestitch and are heavily outlined.

Mosul Rugs Made in (Mesopotamia,usually all wool, but warp and weftare, sometimes, of cotton and thesoft, silky pile of goat's or camel'shair, tied in Ghiordes knot. Yellowand brown colors are often used. Thedesign consists of various geometricalpatterns and several border stripes.The ends are finished with a narrowweb or fringe.

Mota Thick cotton cloth made in India.

Motchenetz Trade term for Russian,water retted flax.

Motes Very small pieces of seed orimall immature seeds found in al-

most any ginned cotton, a largequantity of which detracts from thevalue of the fiber.

Motia Coarse and heavy cotton clothwoven with various patterns in India,used for winter clothing by the poorerclasses.

Motif Same as pattern or design on tex-tiles.

Motlado A medieval English mixtureworsted.

Motley 1, medieval English mixtureworsted, 7 yards long and 45 incheswide: 2. same as mixture.

Motril Variety of raw cotton from Spain.It has a white to reddish yellow, lus-

trous, strong fiber.

Moule Soft, thick but light woolen over-coating, made in France.

Moulinage French for silk reeling.

Mou I Inee French for ply yarns, made ofvariously colored strands; used espe-cially for dress goods and suitings.

Mountain Flax Another name for asbes-tos.

Mountmellick Embroidery Raised Irish

embroidery, executed on a heavy,firm fabric with a number of heavy,fancy stitches. The designs are innatural or conventionalized flowers,leaves and also scrolls.

Mourat Fine, brown colored wool fromthe Shetland Isles.

Mourning Crepe A light, plain woven,silk crepe dyed black and made crispwith gum.

Mousquet 'Fine woolen rugs of very closetexture and brilliantly colored designsfro-m Asia Minor.

Mousseline Very light, plain woven,sheer fabric, made of cotton, wool orsilk; used for dresses, etc.

Mousseline de Laine Plain woven, soft,light and open fabric, made of finegassed worsted yarn, often mixedwith cotton.

Mousseline de Soie A plain and openweave fine and light fabric, made ofsilk.

Moustiquaire Very light, transparentEast Indian silk gauze, made eitherplain, striped, or figured.

Mucuna Strong leaf fiber, yielded by theMucuna urens in Brazil; used forropes.

Muddai Very strong, silky fiber, yieldedby a species of asclepias in India;used for ropes. It is mixed with cot-ton when spun; has good affinity fordyes.

Mudj Matting made of Buffalo grass inIndia.

Muga 1, species of brown wild silk, yield-ed by the Antheraea in Assam; 2,

stout, coarse silk fabric, made in In-dia.

Muka 'Native name for the fiber yieldedby the New Zealand flax.

Mukharech Short staple cotton raised inthe interior of Mesopotamia.

Mule Twist The finest cotton yarns,spun on the mule.

Mull Plain woven, very soft, sheer andlight silk or cotton dress goods;comes in white or colors. Starchedmull is made of coarse cotton, stiffen-ed with size and used for underlining,millinery, etc.

Mull Muslin A fine, undressed whitemuslin; used for dresses.

Mulmul Closely woven East Indian cot-ton muslin; see Mull.

Mulmulkha The finest kind of DaccaTnuslin.

Mulquinerie Obsolete French term forlawn and batiste.

Multan Knotted rugs made in India.They have geometrical designs in

deep blues and reds.

Multi bolus Commercial variety of Amer-ican cotton, of Mexican origin; nowobsolete.

Multiflora Commercial variety of earlyripening upland cotton from Alabama,the medium long staple forming clus-ters of bolls.

Mummy Canvas Stout, closely wovenlinen canvas of .brownish color.

Mummy Cloth 1, a fine, closely woven,plain linen fabric, used in ancientEgypt for wrapping mummies. Thebest examples have a double warpand single filling and two or threetimes as many warp ends than picksin a square inch; 2, unbleached, plainwoven, heavy linen or cotton fabric,used for embroidery ground; 3, acrinkled lustreless black cloth, madewith cotton warp and wool filling;also called momie cloth.

Mungo Wool obtained from felted ragsby tearing them up.

MUN 109 NAG

Munj 'Strong and elastic fiber whichstands water well; is yielded by aspecies of the sugar cane in India;used for ropes, mats, and baskets.

Munroe A Highland tartan, composed asfollows: Wide red stripe, split neareach edge by a tine blue and yellowline, the two lines placed next to eachother, the blue being on the outside;*green stripe, half the width of thered; red stripe, half the width of thegreen, split in the center by a narrowblue and yellow line, placed next to

each other; dark blue stripe, halfthe width of the green; *red tield, oneand one half times wider than thefirst red stripe mentioned, split nearto each edge by a narrow yellow andtolue line (placed next to each o-ther

with the yellow line on the outside)and split in the center by three greenstripes, spaced from each other bytheir own width; repeat, in reversedorder, groups mentioned between thetwo (*).

Murga Native name of the Indian bowstring hemp.

Murgavi Native Indian name for theMoorva (see).

Murray of Athole A Highland .tartan,composed as follows: Green stripe,split by a red line in the center;black stripe, half the width of thegreen; dark blue stripe, a little widerthan green one, split in the center bya red stripe, outlined with a fineblack line; black stripe, as above;green stripe, split by red, as above;black stripe, as albove; dark bluestripe, twice as wide as the black,split near each edge by a pair of nar-row black stripes, spaced from theedge and from each other their ownwidth.

Murray of Tulllbardine A Highland tar-tan, composed as follows: Redstripe; group (twice as wide as redstripe), consisting of fine blue line,fine red line, black stripe, fine red line,fine blue line, red stripe, blue stripe,red stripe, fine blue line, fine red line,blue stripe (narrow), fine red line,fine blue line, red stripe, blue stripe,red stripe, fine blue line, fine red line,folack stripe, fine red line, fine blueline; red stripe, as the first one;*dark blue stripe, little less than halfthe width of the red; red stripe, aswide as the blue, split by a fine greenline near the edge next to the blue;green stripe, half the width of thefirst wide red*; red stripe, almosttwice as wide as the green, split bytwo blue and a narrower black stripe;repeat, in reversed order, stripes men-tioned between the two (*).

Mururuni Leaf fiber, yielded by a palmin Brazil; used for hats, baskets, etc.

Mushaddah Coarse cotton fabric; usedas loin cloth, etc., in Abyssinia. It ismade on hand looms in Hodeida.

Mushroo An Bast Indian cotton backsilk satin, figured with white or goldflowers, some having wavy stripes ofyellow and gojd.

Mushy Dry, fuzzy wool, yielding largepercentage of noil in combing.

Muslin 1, plain woven, bleached or gray,soft finished cotton fabric in a greatvariety, ranging from the finest Daccamuslin to coarse fabrics; used fordresses, aprons, sheets, shirts, the lat-ter often having warp stripes; 2, avery light, loose, plain woven cottonfabric, considerably stiffened in thefinish; used for foundations indresses.

Musi metCoarse cotton muslin, usuallysized.

Muslinette In England a thick variety ofmuslin; used for dresses.

Musselburgh Stuff Narrow and coarseScotch woolen of the 18th century.

Mustabet Very rich and expensive fab-ric of the Middle Ages; texture un-known.

Mustardevelin A napped woolen fabric,made in gray mixture, used in the15th and 16th centuries in England.Also called mustardevilliers.

Musulmane French silk dress goods,originated in the 18th century; oftenbrocaded with gold or silver; obsolete.

Myoto Pine Japanese woolen rugs.

Mysore Inferior East Indian knottedrugs.

Mysore Silk Soft, fine, undressed EastIndian silk dress goods, made plain,dyed or printed, mostly in floral pat-terns.

N

Nabo Native name of the strong fiber,

yielded by the Nauolea in the Philip-pines; used for cords, ropes.

Naboika 'Russian homespun linen, print-ed with fast colors by means of wood-en .blocks; used for clothes, religiousvestments, covers, etc.

Nac or Nachiz Medieval silk brocade ofOriental origin.

Nacarat 1, orange red colored fine linenin Latin-America; 2, in Portugal afine crepe or muslin, dyed in flesh col-or, which is used by women as rouge.

Nacre 1, iridescent, changeable effect; 2,silk fabrics woven in colors produc-ing effects similar to the mother-of-pearl.

Nae Hawaiian name for a netting, hav-ing a very fine and close mesh; usedfor garments.

Nagapore Bright colored, light and softsilk fabric, made in India.

Nago Nodzi Navajo blanket made withblack and white stripes running weft-wise, occasionally with a little red;has red tassels at the corners.

NAI HO NAT

Nainsook-s-PIain and open woven, light,white, cotton fabric; used for under-wear, dresses, etc.; comes plain orwith cord stripes or cord plaids.Originally is from India. It is pro-duced In the finishing process. TheEnglish nainsook is finished soft,while the French is made crisp.

Nak Medieval name for cloths of gold.Nakhai Bicliidi Navajo blanket of Mexi-

can origin, woven with weft stripesin red, blue, black and white.

Namad Felted carpets of Persia and In-dia.

Namazlik Turkish name for prayerrugs.

Nambali Silk fabric with religious namesprinted on; used for garments inIndia.

Namdas Felted woolen cloth, made inThibet. Is often embroidered andused for rugs and carpets.

Namitka A fine sheer veil, woven insouthern Russia from homespun silk

by the peasants and used for headornament.

Nanako Plain woven Japanese silk fab-ric.

Nancy Embroidery French needlework,combining embroidery in colored silkwith drawnwork.

Nanduty Very fine lace made of cottonor pita fiber in South America. It ismade in small squares joined to-gether.

Nankeen 1, originally a medium weight,plain woven, yellowish brown fabricmade in China of a native cotton andfinished pure. Imitated by other cot-ton fabrics, dyed in the same color,used by Chinamen for clothes; 2,

cotton cloth in Roumania, having awhite warp and pink, red or yellowcolored filling; it is finished with asize; 3, English and French all-cot-ton, very stout, plain , woven fabric,dyed in the yarn and made in solidcolors, stripes, with equal number ofthreads in the warp and weft in asquare inch; used for clothing.

Nankeen Cotton Grown in China and In-dia; has reddish staple.

Nankin 1, Chinese cotton canvas of yel-lowish or grayish tint, made in piecesof 70 yards long. It came also in blue,black, red, green, yellow and brown;obsolete; 2, a French cotton piecegoods, similar to the Chinese; 3, finenet made of unbleached linen; obso-lete; 4, see Blonde Lace.

Nankinet 1, similar to nankin but notwoven as close; 2, fine, fancy coloredpercales.

Nansu Nainsook in Venezuela.

Nap The downy substance, coveringeither side, entirely or partly, of awoolen or cotton fabric. It is formedby the loose fibers of the warp orweft threads, and is produced byscratching the cloth and thus raisingthe nap. In this respect it is dis-tinctly different from the pile (see)which is always formed by a cut yarnseparate from the ground of the cloth.

Napery Table and household linen.

Napiei 1. double faced coating with woolface and vicuna or goats' hair back;2, good grade of floor matting, madeof hemp and jute.

Napolitaine A French flannel, originallymade with all-woolen warp and fill-

ing, loosely woven, not fulled, anddyed in the piece, striped or printed;used for dresses, scarves, etc.

Napped Goods Woolen or cotton fabrics,finished with a nap (see) on the faceor the back. The nap might coverthe entire fa'bric or only parts of its

surface, forming stripes or figures.

Napping A finishing process in the man-ufacture of certain woolens and cot-tons (like broadcloth, flannel, etc.).After weaving the fabric one side ofit is scratched up (gigged or napped).The nap thus raised is brushed andshorn even.

Narainganji India jute of good commer-cial value; it has a strong, soft andlong fiber of reddish brown color;grown in the Dacca district.

Narrow Fabrics Ribbons, tapes, shoe lin-ings, etc.

Narrow Goods Piece goods of cotton,wool or silk, made 27 inches wide orless.

Narrow Wale Narrow diagonal ribs,round or flat, on some woolens andworsteds.

Narrowing In knitting the reduction ofthe number of stitches for the pur-pose of shaping.

Narumi-shibori Japanese cotton and silk

crepes, dyed as follows: After takenfrom the loom the fabric has manysmall knots tied into it by means of

wax thread and placed in the dye.After taken out of the dye, the waxthread is removed, leaving behindspots untouched by the dye. Thesespots form small conical prominences,as the dye also slightly shrinks andcrinkles the fabric.

Narwuli White, soft and not very strongbast fiber of a tree of same name in

India; used for ropes.

Nate^A French mercerized cotton cloth.

Natrium Bifluoride^Used as substitutefor cream of tartar and potassium bi-chromate.

Natte (French term for a basket weavesilk fabric made with different coloredwarp and filling.

Natural Refers to undyed or unbleachedcotton or wool.

Natural Dyestuffs Are obtained directlyfrom the various plants and animals,as for instance indigo, cochineal, etc.

Naturell In Germany and Austria a verylight and soft finished, plain wovencotton fabric; used for underwear.

NAV 111 NIL

Navajo Blanket Heavy, stiff wool blank-et, woven with geometrical patternsalways in straight or zigzag lines in

bright color combination on primi-tive, upright frame by the NavajoIndian women. It is very closely wov-en and waterproof. The first speci-mens were of native wool or unrav-eled bayeta, the yarn of which wasoften twisted harder. Later German-town yarn and cotton warp was in-troduced. Most blankets are alikeon both sides.

Naval Lace Gold braid used on uniforms.

Navy Serge A very strong and fine sergeused for uniforms by the U. S. Army.Made of fine worsted, dyed indigoblue in the wool.

Navy Twill Heavy weight, navy bluewool twilled flannel; used for work-ing shirts.

Ndargua Variety of raw cotton from,Senegambia. The staple is coarse,short and strong and of white color.

Nead End In Kngland that end of piecegoods which is shown.

Near-silk Trade term for several mer-cerized cotton linings.

Neat Com'bing wool taken from the sidesof an average lustre fleece; used foryarns from 32s to 36s.

Necanee East Indian blue and whitestriped calico.

Needle Cords Closely woven worsteddress goods, made of fine, gassed sin-gle yarns, producing closely placed,fine ribs, similar to rows of needleholes.

Needle Felt See Punched felt.

Needle-point Lace Laces made with theneedle, irrespective of style or de-sign; see bobbin lace.

Needle Work All kinds of plain and dec-orative works (embroidery and lace)executed with the needle by hand.

Negrepelisse French woolen cloth, thor-oughly fulled with long raised nap;mostly black.

Negretti A large species of native Span-ish sheep, yields fine and soft wool.

Negro Cloth A coarse homespun fabric,used for clothing by the negro slavesin America.

Negro Cotton Commercial term for vari-ous cotton grown in Western Africa.

Neigelli, Neghelli Cloth made of the fiberof sunn hemp in India.

Named Persian felt rug with patternsof colored wool pressed into it. SeeNamad.

Neps Little knots of immature or In-completely developed tangled fibers:their presence is usually the resultof improper ginning though some-times caused through careless pick-ing and carding. It is hard to spinor dye.

Neri Grade of waste silk, obtained fromthe inner smooth skin of the cocoon,left over after the reeling.

Nessu iNative name in East Africa fornainsook.

Net 1, in hand made laces the meshground; 2, see tulle and maline.

Net Canvas Made of cotton or linen withan open texture, in black or whiteand stiffened with gize; used for em-broidery ground.

Net Leno Leno fabrics having the cross-ing warp (see) floating on the face ofthe fabric and forming zigzag lines.

Net Silk Another name for thrown silkin England.

Netting In nautics, network made ofcord or rope.

iNettle Cloth 1, mentioned in 16th cen-tury English manuscript; is of un-known structure; 2, a light, sheer fab-ric, woven of the stem fibers of thenettle in Germany.

Nettle Fiber Short, fine stem fiber yield-ed by the nettle; used for twine, cloth,etc., in Austria, Germany, etc.

Neuilly French machine-made tapestrymade in imitation of the real gobe-lins.

New Rag sorting term, signifying newtailor's clips for rags.

New Draperies 16th century Englishterm for serges, bays, says, perpetu-anas, etc. (see each).

New Zealand Cotton Fine, strong bastiflber, yielded by the young branchesof the ribbon tree in New Zealand;used for fishing lines.

New Zealand Hemp 'Long, soft, white,silky and very strong leaf fiber

yielded by the Phormium tenax in

Australasia; used for ropes, twine,matting and cloths. The base markis "fair Wellington."

New Zealand Tow 'Waste resulted fromthe scutching of the New Zealandflax; contains short .fibers.

Newar-^Cotton tape, made by the nativesof India; used for cots.

Neyanda Strong silky leaf fiber, yieldedby the bow string he.-np in Ceylon;used for ropes, cordage and coarsecloth, etc.

Nguine Coarse, reddish cotton, grown in

ISenegambia.

Ngutunui Native name for a species ofthe New Zealand flax (see) yieldingfibers suitable for the finest fabrics.

Nid d'Abeille (French for honeycombpattern.

Nifels Mentioned under Edward IV. in

England, thought to have been a sortof veil.

Niggerhead Same as boucle (see).

Niihau Fine Hawaiian mats, made of thestem fibers of the makaloa, the cy-press hedge.

Nlkerie Variety of raw cotton fromSouth 'America.

Nilghiri iNettle Soft, silky and very 'longbast fiber, yielded by the Girardiniapalmata in India.

Nilla A cloth made of mixture of silk

with bast fibers in East India.

NIL 112 OAK

Nilsaria Stout East Indian calico withstripes or cheeks composed of roundblue dots.

Nimes French piece dyed, wool dress fab-ric of medium quality, originally hav-ing 2,200 warp ends.

Ninon A stout French chiffon; used forsummer dresses.

Nip Flaw in the yarn, consisting of thinplaces.

Nipa 1, a palm in the Philippines, theleaves of which are used for mats,hats, sails, and raincoats for the na-tives; 2, the cocoanut tree in theNicobar Islands. The leaves areclipped in wide strips and used forsail cloth.

Nishiki A very rich gold and silver bro-cade, made in Japan.

No ThrowSame as trame (see).

Node An English cotton dress fabric

haying a boucle face and havingtwisted knots either in the warp orthe filling.

Noil Short wool fibers which are cardedand used for woolen goods. It is theresult of combing the wool, whichprocess separates it from the top.

Nomad Carpets Persian knot wool car-pets of plain design.

Non Battue Loosely woven French linencanvas of inferior grade.

Nonpareilles Camlet like French cloth,made either of all wool or mixed withgoats' hair or linen yarn. See alsolamparillas.

Norfolk Cloth Fine medieval Englishworsted; used for clothing.

Normal Trade term for knit gcods, madeof natural colored cotton and woolmixed.

Normal Mixture Knit goods, made of amixture of cotton and wool, the color

being black and white mixture.

Norman Embroidery 'Conventional de-signs fllled with crewel wool, parts ofthe pattern being covered with openfancy embroidery stitches in floss

sil'k.

Normandy Laces Bobbin laces, made in

imitation of Malines and the Chantil-ly lace.

Normandy Val Trade name for machinemade lace, similar to the shadow lace.

Northamptonshire Lace English bobbinlaces, made in imitation of Lille, Val-enciennes and Brussels laces. Themesh ground is very fine.

Norwegian Yarn Fine, slack-twist yarn,made of Norwegian lambs' wool in

natural white, gray or black; used for

hand knitting in England.

Norwich Crape A 19th century Englishfabric, made of silk warp and wors-ted filling in colors different fromeach other or dyed two shades of thesame color. It is woven both sides

alike, without a wale and is finishedwith a gloss; used for women's dress-es. In the 17th century it was anEnglish worsted crepe dyed in black.

Norwich Fustian An English worsteddress goods of the 16th century.

Norwich Satin Glossy English worstedfabric of the 16th century.

Norwich Shawl A fine English silk shawl,originally made with checks andstripes and embroidered afterwards;later it was made of printed silk

yarn.

Nottingham Lace .Machine-made cottonlaces, mostly curtain laces, originallyfrom N., England. The characteristicof the curtain laces is the well markedwarp threads, the patterns beingformed by a sort of darning stitch.

None 'French for knotted.

Nouka Good quality of Georgian wool.

Nouveaute 'French for novelty; fabricsand trimmings outside of the staplelines.

Novato A woolen or silk fabric; used inthe 16th and 17th century in Eng-land.

Noyales 1, fine French bleached linen,sometimes mixed with cotton; 2, un-bleached, French hemp sail cloth, the

strongest .grade made with a six- plywarp. . 4

Milage French for clouded color effects.

Nub Yarn Fancy cotton, wool or silk

yarn, having a ply core, around whichis twisted another thread, formingknots at regular intervals.

Numbering 'See count.

Nun's 'Cloth <A very thin, plain wovenblack woolen fabric, similar to bunt-ing; used for mourning wear, fordresses for nuns, office coats, etc.

Nun's Thread Very ifine, bleached linen

thread, made by the nuns in Italy andFlanders since the 16th century; usedfor laces.

Nun's Veiling 1, a very light and flimsyblack veiling; used for mourning,made of cotton, silk or wool warp andwoolen filling and having a border onone side; 2, a heavier fabric of thesame composition; used as dressgoods.

Nun's Work Early name for variousneedle work, as laces, embroidery,knitting, etc.

Nurse Cloth Stout cotton shirting in

'South Africa, showing stripe designs.

Nursery ClothBleached, quilted, washable cotton muslin; used in the nur-sery.

Oakum 1, the coarse fibers of flax andhemp, separated by scutching; it is

mixed with tar and is used for caulk-ing ships; 2, in nautics old ropes un-twisted and pulled apart; used for

caulking.

OAT 113 OPU

Oatmeal A sort of armure weave, with aresemblance to oatmeal.

Oatmeal Cloth-^Soft and thick cloth oflinen cotton or wool with a pebbledface like ratine; used for upholsterydraping, dresses, etc. Often made withwaste filling.

Oats Karly .maturing commercial varietyof American cotton, the staple meas-uring 20-25 millimeters; the yield is

32-34 per cent.

Odjaklik Turkish name for Orientalhearth rugs, usually having a centerfield with pointed ends.

Oeil de Perdrix 1, a fancy ground in oldFrench laces, consisting of brides,ornamented with groups of knots; 2,

plain French serge dress goods, madewith eight leaves and four picks in arepeat.

Oeillet French for eyelet.

Ogilvie A Highland tartan of very com-plicated composition, consisting ofwide red and blue stripes, narrower^l^ek and red stripes and lines of blue,

black, red and yellow.

Oilcloth Used for table or floor cover. 1,

table oilcloth is thin, pliable and madeon cotton base; 2, floor oilcloth is

thicker, made on burlap base which is

laid over with several layers of lin-

seed oil mixed with ochre and othei

pigments; the goods are then printedand varnished.

Oilskin Cotton fabric, made waterproofwith boiled oil; used for sailors' coats.

Giselle Hemp--<See Rozelle hemp.Okinawa Jyofu Fine and lightweight

dress goods made of the leaf fibersof the banana tree in Japan; usedfor summer dresses.

Okra 1, white, very light but brittle andnot very strong fiber yielded by aspecies of hibiscus in India, the WestIndians, etc.; used for ropes, cordage,etc; 2, commercial variety of earlymaturing American cotton, the staplemeasuring 24-26 millimeters, formingsmall bolls; the yield is 30-32 percent.

Olala Native Hawaiian name for theyoung leaves of a sedge, dried andbleached over the flre, and used forifine mats, which are made into gar-ments.

Olanes Printed cotton cloth in Cuba withsmall, usually dark red designs overa white foundation.

Old Bess Cotton formerly grown in the"West Indies; the staple was coarseand inferior.

Oldhame English worsted fabric of the14th century.

Ollyet Wool fabric made in Norwich,England in the 17th century.

Olona Very strong and durable bast fiber

yielded by a species of the nettle

(Touchardia latifolia) in Hawaii;used for fishing nets, cords and lines.

Olone Unlbleached "French sailcloth, madewith hemp warp and tow yarn filling.

Ombre French term for ribbons and dressgoods, shaded with various colors orvarious shades of the same color. Thechange in the color or the shade takesplace usually from one selvage to theother along the entire length of thefabric.

Onde I, a light French woolen dressgoods; 2, French term for moire ef-fect on silk and wool fabrics.

Ondee Yarn made of a ifine and a heav-ier strand.

Ondule 1, various plain woven, light silk

or cotton fabrics, having the warpor filling but mostly the latter placedin wavy line without any gauzeweave. Warp ondules are made withseveral sets of warps; used for dressgoods; 2, a French corded and twilleddress fabric, made with eight warpends and eight picks in a repeat; 3, astout, completely fulled cloth with along, raised nap.

Onteora Rug (Modern American rug wov-en on hand looms. The weft consistsof piece ends of colored denims, form-ing blocks, stripes and arrows as de-signs.

Oomrawuttee East Indian cotton, havinga regular, strong but short staple ofa white or creamy color; usually dirty.

Ooze 1, loose fibers on the yarn; 2, flawin the yarn, consisting of unevenlytwisted .places.

Open BandYarn twisted to the righthand.

Open Lace See Darned lace.

OpenworkIn embroidery, laces, knittingand crocheting interstices in a groundof closer texture, often to form orenhance a pattern.

Opera Flannel A narrow and verysmoothly finished lightweight woolflannel, usually dyed in light colors;used for women's and children's gar-ments.

Opera Length In women's hosiery is

about 34 inches.

Oporto Coarse Portuguese wool; used for

carpets.

Opuhe Yields a very tenacious bastfiber; used for fishing nets in Hawaii.

Opus Anglicum 'Medieval Latin name for

embroidery made in England by chainstitch worked in circular lines.

Opus Araneum Medieval name for acoarse darned netting.

Opus Consutum Medieval Latin name for

applique (see).

Opus Filatorum Medieval name for darn-ing embroidery on a square meshfoundation.

Opus Pectineum 'Medieval Latin term fora brocaded silk fabric woven on handlooms with the aid of a comb-like in-strument.

Opus Plumarium Medieval Latin namefor embroidery in feather stitch.

Opus Pulvinarium 'Medieval Latin namefor embroidery made on open can-vas ground with silk or wool in crossstitch.

OPU 114 OUT

Opus Saracenicum Medieval Latin termfor tapestry.

Opus Scissum Latin name for the firstcut work.

Opus Tiratum Latin name for drawn-work.

Orange. Fine French calico, printed withfast dyes; now obsolete.

Orangelist A coarse woolen lining, madein great widths and dyed in brightcolors; made in Kngland for the Span-ish markets; obsolete.

Orchil Violet dyestuff, used for animalfibers, obtained from a lichen (ro-cella tinctoria).

Ordinary 'Lowest of American cotton full

grades. See Cotton.

Orenburg Shawl A framework knittedfabric, made by shifting certain loopssideways the distance of severalneedles and thus forming the design.

Organdie A fine, thin, sheer, plain wov-en cotton muslin finished very clearand crisp with little size; comesusually bleached, but also dyed or.printed; used for dresses and trim-mings.

Organzine A fine silk yarn, used forwarp; it is composed usually of threeto eight cocoon filaments twistedlightly to the right and two or threesuch threads twisted together to theleft. The best grade of reeled andtwisted silk is used.

Oriental Embroidered laces, made onPlauen machines.

Oriental Carpets Hand-made carpets of

Asia, especially Asiatic Turkey, Per-sia, Bokhara, Afghanistan and India.

They have either hand-knotted pileor are woven similar to tapestry. Thematerial is usually wool, but thefinest Persians have silk pile. Thedesign is characteristic of each dis-trict and good examples of carpetsshow beautiful rich and finely blendedcolors.

Orientate 'Single faced, ribbed, Frenchsilk dress goods with a high finish,made with ply warp. There are 18

warp ends and 18 picks in a repeat.

Orleans 1, lightweight fabric, originatedin England in the early part of the19th century; it was woven .usuallyin plain, tout also in five harness twill

with a two-ply cotton warp and wors-ted filling which completely coveredthe warp and dyed in the piece; usedfor men's wear, dress goods, linings.

Orleantine 1, French serge dress goods,made with 10 leaves and 10 picks in

a repeat; 2, French dress goods madewith two-ply warp, having eightleaves and six picks in a repeat.

Ormuk A fine, soft fabric, made_ of thehair of young camels in Turkestan.

Ornis Fine East Indian muslin with wov-en gold and silver stripes.

Orraye Heavy and closely woven silk

satin of Persian origin with embroid-ered flowers; it is made alike on both

sides.

Orrice Gold and silver lace; used in Eng-land in the 18th century. Now a sortof upholstery braid.

Orsey Silk Same as organzine.

Ortica Obsolete name for light, thin fab-rics, woven of nettle fibers.

Ortigao Strong bast fiber, yielded by aspecies of the nettle in Brazil; usedfor nets, clothing, etc., by the na-tives.

Ortigues A coarse French packing can-vas.

Osbro 117th century English worsted fus-tian; often mixed with silk.

Osiei A willow, salix viminalis, the barkof which is used for baskets, ropesand garments by the Indians.

Osman A very firm terry cloth made in

England, the loops being beaten upon four picks.

Osnaburg 'Plain woven, strong cottonfabric, made in blue and white orbrown and white stripes and checksor solid colors; used for overalls,farmers' clothing, etc., in the UnitedStates. Originally from Germany.

Ostads ^A twilled and thoroughly fulledwoolen cloth with nap raised, shornand calendered; now obsolete. Orig-inally from Holland.

Otbornoi General trade term for superiorgrade of classed flax and hemp in

Russia.

Ottoman A lustrous plain woven silkfabric with heavier cross ribs thanfaille. The warp completely coversthe filling, which is of cotton.

Ottoman Cord A silk or wool dress fab-ric, made with very heavy warp, form-ing ribs and much -finer, hard spunfilling, which entirely covers the warpin plain weave.

Ouate Vegetale French trade term forvarious tree cotton fibers; used for

stuffing.

Oudenarde Tapestry woven with foliagedesign in Belgium.

Oulemari Native Indian name for the fi-

brous bast of the Couratari tree in

French Guiana; used for cloths,

blankets, etc.

O unce The weight of one square yard of

cloth, as standard, is expressed in

ounces.

Ounce Thread Fine linen yarn for laces

and embroideries; made in England.Also called Nun's thread.

Oursine A French shaggy faced woolencoating, similar to bearskin.

Ourville A French linen.

Oushak Rugs Usually large sized, all-

wool rugs made in Asia Minor. Themedium long, soft and loose pile is

tied in Ghiordes knot.

Outing Cloth Soft cotton fabric, wovenwith colored .patterns and napped on

both sides; used for dresses, shirts,

trousers, etc. Same as outing flannel

or domet.

OUT 115 PAK

Outinq Flannel 1, an all-wool or cottonmixed fabric; used for men's andwomen's outing garments. It is

woven with a four-leaf, even-sidedtwill, fulled, napped, shorn andpressed; 2, a flannelette, made in imi-tation of the above.

Ouvre French term for fabrics havingchecks and other small patterns, pro-duced on an ordinary loom. SeeDamasse.

Overcast Stitch Used in embroideryaround the edges of open parts, asfor instance in eyelet embroidery.

Overcheck Two checks of different colorswoven over each other, or a checkpattern placed over a ground in solid

color.

Overcoating A great variety of mediumweight or heavy woolen or worsted orunion fabrics, woven for overcoats.

Overshot Term in England for floatsformed by the weft.

Overspun Irregular yarn, showing toomuch twist at the thin places.

Oxalic Acid Used in printing cotton anddyeing and mordanting wool.

Oxford 1, stout cotton shirting, wovenchiefly in plain or fancy basketweaves, with clean and narrow colored

warp stripes. The weft is slack twist,thick and lustrous cotton yarn, usual-ly in white. In England it is woven.plain, with two warps in a heald anda soft spun filling in each shed. In

Germany and Austria it is made withtwo picks in each shed; 2, stiff fin-

ished, yarn dyed cotton checks andstripes in Asia -Minor; 3, woolen graymixture fabric, woven of yarns hav-ing black and white strands; 4, inknit goods dark gray mixture yarns.

Oxford Gray Various fabrics, made of

yarn containing black and white fibers

mixed in various proportions.

Oxo Wool lA flax substitute for wool.

Oyah Lace Coarse Turkish crochet lace

made of colored silk yarn.

Ozier 'Early maturing .commercial va-riety of upland cotton, the staplemeasuring 25-28 millimeters, formingmedium bolls; the yield is 30-S2 percent.

Pabnapar Fine white or colored cottoncloth, woven with email patterns bythe natives of India.

Pachras Bright striped thick cotton clothmade in India; used for garments.

Pack 1, 240 pounds measure for wool topand flax; 2, linen yarn 'measure, equalto 60,000 yards.

Pack Cloth 'Coarse burlap; used for pack-ing.

Pack Duck In England a coarse, stoutlinen fabric; used for packing.

Pack Thread Very strong twine; used for

tying bundles. It is made two or three.ply, of hemp or flax, in various thick-nesses and fineness.

Packing Whit A 15th century Englishwoolen.

Paco Another name for alpaca.

Pacputan Coarse wool from northwesternIndia.

Pad Thick, moire silk ribbon, in colors,for watch chains or narrower, in

black, for guard for eyeglasses.

Padded Back In England printed linings,the back of which is printed solid grayor black.

Padding A process in mordanting cotton;the fabric is thoroughly soaked in

a solution of metallic salts, the ex-cess bath is removed by squeezing, thecloth is dried and the salts are fixed

by dunging (see).

Paddings Jute cloth, similar to the Hes-sian, in natural color or black; it is

stiffened and used as padding forcoats.

Padou A narrow silk ribbon in France.

Paduasoy Stout, rich Italian silk fabric;name obsolete, the fabric being knownas peau de sole.

Paesano Trade term for the best twogrades of Naples hemp; the third andfourth grades are called cordaggio.

n oblong piece of cotton, dyedblue or red; worn as loin cloth inAfrica.

Pagnes Cotton cloth in Sierra Leone.

Pagnon A fine French woolen fabric; ob-solete.

Paile (Medieval French silk fabric ofArabic origin.

Paillette Spangled; silk or net orna-mented with liquid gelatin or glass.

Paina A lustrous seed fiber, growing wildin Brazil; used for stuffing pillowsand said to be spun in Switzerland.

Painted Cloth Canvas with various mot-toes painted on it in oil; used for

hanging in medieval England.

Painters' Canvas 'Fine corded woven fab-ric, one side ribbed and the othermade similar to knit fabric; made ofall-wool or mixed with cotton.

Paisley 'Shawl Made in the 19th centuryin Paisley, Scotland, in imitation ofthe cashmere shawl. It was made offine cashmere wool warp with a silk

core and botany worsted .filling. Theshawl was woven face downward,later made double faced; now obso-lete.

Paisseau (An obsolete French woolenserge.

Paita Variety of raw cotton from Peru;see Payta.

Pajam Bast Indian cotton fabric.

Pakea 'Fine mats woven without any fig-

ures by the natives of Hawaii; usedfor garments, etc.

PAK 116 PAP

Pakki Long ells in the Chinese trade.

Paklaken^Said to be an English fabric,made of wool, usually white; obsolete.

Palambangs Plain woven cotton fabrics,worn as loin cloths or scarfs in India,made with a fancy border and head-ing.

Palampooi -Rich, printed cotton fabric,made in India and China; used forbed cover.

Palanche Heavy cloth made of linen

warp and woolen filling; used as lin-

ing for sailor's clothes in France; ob-solete.

Palicat -Fine cotton handkerchiefs fromAsia Minor.

Pall Fine and rich woolen fabric; usedby the nobles, in medieval England.

Pallas -French pile fabric; used for coat-

ing, made of cotton warp and fillingand long goafs' hair warp. It is either

dyed black in the piece or printed in

fur effect.

Pa Imat -Very soft, medieval silk fabricwith figures of palms woven in; usedfor bed spreads.

Palmet .Strong black leaf fiber yielded bythe Prionium palmita in South Africa;substitute for horsehair.

Palmette Shawl made in France with afoundation of two-ply wool warp andcombed wool filling, and carded woolyarn for the figures.

Palmetto Leaf fibers, yielded by the

palmetto palms; used for hats, mats,etc.

Palmyra Stiff and harsh leaf fiber, yield-ed by a palm in Ceylon; used for

brushes. See Bassine.

Palometa 18th century worsted fromFlanders; often mixed with linen.

Palo Barracho In Argentine a soft silky

fiber, yielded by the pod of the Bom-bax ventricosa.

Palungao Soft, white, silky and verydurable fiber, yielded by the hibiscus

plant in India; used as hemp substi-

tute. See also Ambari Hemp.Pamna Hazara An Indian cotton muslin.

Pampa South American sheep, yieldinglong, straight and bright wool.

Panache French for high and variegatedcolored effect.

Panama -Plain woven worsted dress

goods, dyed in the piece; hopsackingmade of coarse yarn in basket weave,made plain or in two colors. There is

also a dress goods of cotton warp anddouble wool filling producing an effect

similar to the texture of the Panamahats.

Panama Canvas Thick, cream colored,basket weave canvas; it is beetled andused for embroidery.

Panama Weave Consists of several warpand weft threads crossing each otherat once, producing a mat like effect.

Pandanus A palm in East Africa, India

and Polynesia; the leaves are usedfor mats, baskets, hats.

Pang A Chinese silk dress goods.

Pangalo A new variety of Egyptian cot-ton; the staple is described as brown-ish, of silky gloss and strong.

Pangane Very long and strong leaf fiber,yielded by the Sansevieria plant inEastern Africa; used for cordage,nets, etc.

Pangdan -Name of the screw pine in the'Philippines; the long leaves are splitand woven into bags and mats.

Pangfil <A Chinese silk cloth.

Panha See Paina.Panne Pile fabric, having a longer pile

than velvet but shorter than plush;the pile is laid or pressed down. Theground is usually organzine silk andthe pile of wool.

Panno Combrido An East Indian calico

Pannonia Leather Has a coarse cotton orjute ground covered with a layer ofvarnish, which is finished to resembleleather.

Pannus A medieval silk fabric, made in

Italy.

Pano Cru 'Heavy cotton sheeting or Tcloth in Portugal, made with coloredhead ends.

Panossare Oblong piece of cotton withred stripes; used as loin cloth in Af-rica.

Panriges -East Indian silk cloth withflower design.

Panse de Vache Figured French linen;obsolete.

Panting Same as trousering.

Panus Tartaricus A medieval fabric.

Papeline Originally a lightweight dress

goods, made in Avignon, France, of

silk warp and silk waste filling in

plain colors, or figured; one side hada selvage of different color than the

warp.

Paper Cambric Lightweight, lustrouscotton lining.

Paper Cloth Cotton, hemp or jute fab-ric coated with paper on one or bothsides, between heavy rollers; used for

boxes, etc.

Paper Muslin Light weight cotton mus-lin, sized and given a lustrous finish;

used for lining.

Paper Yarn Unfinished, pure sulphatepaper is out into strips one-sixth inchwide and upwards, according to the

required size of the yarn. Each stripis wound on a bobbin, from which it

is spun by dampening it first, sizedand finally twisted. It can be dyedbefore or after spinning and it takeswaterproofing well; used for packingtwine, tarpaulins, waterproof canvas,trimmings, drapery fabrics, carpets,mats, towelings. It is used usuallyas filling with cotton or wool warp,and also has been made into cheapclothing. For the finest sizes tissue

paper is used and for very strongyarns Swedish kraft paper.

Papery -Excessive smoothness given to

the cloth with the aid of sizes in the

finishing process.

PAP 117 PAT

Papoon Plain woven cotton fabric; usedin India; made of different colored

warp and filling or in small checks.

Papyrus The paper reed, Cyperus papy-rus, of Egypt: the stem fibers are usedfor cloth, sails, mats, cords, etc.

Para Variety of raw cotton from Brazil.

Para Fiber Commercial grade of the

piassava (see).

Paragon An 18th century pure worstedfabric in England; a.nother name for

peropus.

Paraguay Lace Bobbin lace, made of fine

threads with wheel designs in Para-guay.

Parahyba Variety of raw cotton fromPrazil, having a fairly strong, harsh

staple of white color.

Paramatta English dress goods, orig-inated in the 19th century, woven withcotton warp and Botany filling in 2

>"! 1 weft faced twill. It is also usedfor raincoats.

Parangon 'Silk cloth in the Levant.

Parao Strong leaf 'fiber of the Hibiscustiliareus in Society Islands; used for

ropes.

Parchment Cotton A fine, plain wovencolon fabric in England, sized and(finished to resemble parchment.

Parchment Lace 'See Guipure.Parchmentier 18th century wool fabric,

made in Norwich, England.Pardia Kufr Very fine cotton fabric,

made in India and embroidered withgold and silver birds or flowers; wornas a shawl.

Pardo A temporary, brown colored vari-ation of several Peruvian cottons.

Pareu Narrow and cheap cotton cloth in

the Society Islands, printed with fruit

and flower designs in red or blue onwhite foundation or red on white;used for skirts or loin cloths by thenatives.

Parhdai Cotton muslin from India, hav-ing plain or gold selvage.

Paris Cord Stout, all-silk cloth with fine

weft ribs, originated in France; usedfor neckwear, etc.

Paris Embroidery Consists of smallleaves and berries embroidered withwhite cord on pique or with floss silk

on colored satin or cloth.

Parisian Cloth In the 19th century anEnglish fabric, made of cotton warpand worsted 'filling, often woven withdobby figures.

Parisienne 1, a silk cloth in France madewith small patterns; 2, a figured or-

leans, very fashionable in the middl"of the 19th century in France andEngland; 3. very soft, lightweightFrench dress fabric, made black, of

merino wool.Parkal In India same as percale.

Paropa A fabric made of silk and wool,used in England during the 16th

and 17th centuries. Also called

peropus.

Parlrre Obsolete light silk damask in

France.

Parthenos French silk velvet dressgoods.

Partridge Cord A mottled corduroyParwalla General term in Bengal for cot-

ton cloth with a colored selvage

Pasac Philippine fiber, used for cordage.

Pashim, or Pashmina Very fine, downywool found under the hair of thecashmere goat in India; it comes in

gray, white or drab colors and is usedfor the finest rugs and shawls.

Passement 1, obsolete French term for

lace; 2, French name for the tracedand pricked parchment, on whichhand made laces are executed.

Passementerie Braids, fringes, etc., usedfor trimming.

Passing Thread consisting of a narrowflat strip of gold twisted around a silk

core. Used for embroidering andtapestry work. The smallest size is

called tambour.

Passing Braid Is made of passing, (see).

Pastille 1, pattern consisting of dots

only; 2, round dots, usually of velvetor other thick material woven or ap-pliqued to nets, veils, etc.

Pastourelle Plain French serge, madewith eight harnesses and four picksin a repeat.

Patagonian Long staple, heavy shrinkingwool from Southern Chile, washesvery white; used for hosiery.

Patchwork Needlework, consisting of

joining various colored and shapedclippings of materials with fancystitches, to form quilts, covers, etc.

Patent Axminster Pile carpet woven on

power loom, chenille being used for

filling.

Patent Beaver All-wool beaver cloth of

very fine quality, fulled very thor-

oughly, making the fabric almost

waterproof.Patent Cord Obsolete French and Eng-

lish pile fabric, made with wool or

cotton warp, wool filling and a long

pile of wool.

Patent Flannel A very light and sheer

English flannel.

Patent Yarn Union yarn made of linen

and cotton before fine spinning wasinvented; name now obsolete.

Patentes (Bleached, cotton sheetings in

Portugal.

Patna ilndian knotted wool or cotton

rugs, having geometrical designs in

white and various blues.

Patole Bordered silk fabric with printed,embroidered or hand painted patterns,made in India. It is made about a

yard wide.

Pattern The ornamental design which is

only a decorative element in a fabric

and different from the weave. In

laces and embroideries it is often

characteristic of the different makes.

Pattes De Lievre French term for a WestIndian tree cotton.

PAT 118 PEN

Patron d'Hollande Fine bleached andfigured French table linen; obsolete.

Patu A very fine Bast Indian fabric,made of pashim wool. Also a verystrong but coarse fabric, made of

goats' hair.

Patwa Very strong bast fiber, yielded bythe Bauhenia vahlii, a climbing plantin India; used for cordage; alsocalled mohwal.

Paukas Coarse Kast Indian calico.

Paukpan iBast fiber yielded by the

Aeschyomena aspera, a small bushin Burma; used for cords and hats.

Paules A medieval English worstedcloth.

Paunch Mat A thick mat woven of ropesand flattened; used in ships.

Pavie Fine, bleached and figured Frenchtable linen; obsolete.

Payta Variety of raw cotton from Peru,the staple is of grayish color, little

lustre and strong.

Pearce 'Commercial variety of early ma-turing upland cotton, yielding 32-33per cent of medium long lint.

Pearking Obsolete English trade termmeaning examination of the finishedgoods.

Pearl 'See Bar.

Pearl of Beauty Another name for

Buffyn (see), made with warp stripes.

Pearl Braid Made of three or more ondeyarne.

Pearl Edge iSee Picot.

Pearl Knitting Knitted fabrics having all

loops of one row lying in one direc-tion and the next in an oppositedirection.

Pearling Obsolete Scotch term for linenor silk lace; also a fine cambric.

Peat Fiber Obtained from peat, used for

stuffing, etc.

Peau French for skin; a very commonname (in connection with other words,as "mouse," "peach," etc.) formodern dress goods, with an ex-ceedingly ifine, downy nap, which is

produced mostly by the emerizingprocess (see) and shorn after.

Peau De Cygne A stout silk fabric, madewith a pebbled face and given a highfinish.

Peau De Diable A very durable Frenchtrousering, made of all cotton andprinted.

Peau de Gant^White silk damask dressgoods.

Peau De Mouton A French twilledwoolen coating, having a curled pileof mohair or wool.

Peau D'Ours A very shaggy woolen over-coating, (bearskin).

Peau De Poule Plain colored Frenchserge, having eight leaves and fourpicks in a repeat, also an obsoleteFrench silk dress fabric.

Peau de Soie Stout and very soft dresssilk, dyed in the piece, showing onboth or only on one side fine crossribs.

Peau De Suede Woolen dress fabricmade with velvet plaid design.

Pebbled The effect produced by variousirregular twill weaves, mostly on silkfabrics.

Pechiyong A white Chinese plush madeof wool and cotton.

Peeler Late maturing commercial varietyof American cotton grown in theMississippi delta, the strong andlustrous staple measuring 2>5-2S milli-

meters; the yield is 30-32 per cent.

Peerless Early maturing commercialvariety of upland cotton, the staplemeasuring 23-27 millimeters, formingsmall bolls; the yield is 32-33 percent.

Pegging A finishing process for vel-veteens; it consists in rubbing thepile with blocks of wood or soap-stone to impart a gloss.

Pekin 1, French silk dress goods havingalternate stripes of velvet and satinor gauze; 2, general term for coloredwarp stripes of even width spacedevenly.

Pekin Crepe Silk crepe made with yarndyed, colored warp stripes and theregulation crepe 'filling of alternateright and left hand twist picks.

Pekin Gauze^Xarrow velvet stripes overa gauze foundation.

Pelade 'French term for wool, pulled fromslaughtered sheep in Egypt and Syria.

Pelang White or colored silk satin madein China.

Pelerine Work Framework knitting in

which the shifting of the sinker loopforms the design. Used for shawls.

Pelestrina Lace Italian bobbin lace usedfor the household. The characteristic

pattern is the leaf of the grapevine.

Pelisse A soft but heavy twilled woolenfabric, used for coats.

Pelleton French term for goats' hair fromAsia Minor, used for hats.

Pellon A sort of baize made with anextra long napped faced with a curlyand glossy finish.

Pelo Italian for silk twisted of eight or10 strands, used for gold and silver

cloths.

Pelote French for ball fringe.

Pelotage The lowest grade of vicunawool from Peru.

Pelt Wool Taken from the skin of

slaughtered sheep.

Peluche French for plush.

Peluche Argent Made with silk warp andtwo picks of silk and one pick ofsilver thread alternately; the pile ef-

fect is obtained by using silver che-nille after every ten picks.

Peluche Duvet French plush made withsilk warp and cotton filling, the pile

toeing of swansdown; obsolete.

Pelure D'Oignon Very light, dressed, five-

leaf silk satin, used for hat trim-

mings.

Penang -Stout, East Indian printed cot-ton cloth.

PEN 119 PER

Pencil Antiquated English name for longand narrow strips of silk, used for

pennantsPencil Stripes Dress goods for men's

wear, usually dyed in the piece, hav-ing very fine dotted stripes formed bya single silk thread in a differentcolor.

Penelope Canvas Open canvas made of

cotton or linen with double threadsin the warp and filling; it is heavilysized in the (finish. Used for em-broidery foundation.

Peniche Portuguese peasant bobbin lace

in black and white, made with geo-metrical designs.

Peniston iStout English woolens of lowgrade stock, similar to melton; ob-solete.

Pepita In Germany and Austria shep-herd checks in two colors, on dress

goods, men's trouserings and suitings.Named after a Spanish actress.

Pepper and Salt Mixed colored effect in

woolens and worsteds, producedwith ply yarns of black and whitestrands (double and twist).

Pepperdust Staple Trade term for cot-ton staple containing very fine butnumerous particles of leaves.

Percal Cuadrito In Cuba a blue andwhite or black and white checkedcotton cloth.

Percale-^Plain woven, light weight, wash-able, dull finish, closely woven andprinted cotton fabric, used for dresses,etc. Usually printed in black orother dark color, but it comes alsoin white. Originally from India.

Percales 1, ordinary cotton prints in

Chile; 2, in Cuba a cotton batik withwhite designs over dark red, blue orblack ground.

Percaline 'Light weight, plain wovenglazed and watered cotton fabric,made of single yarn and dyed in thepiece. Used for lining, stiffening,bookbinding, etc. This expression is

also used for silesia.

Perces 'Waste silk, obtained from stainedor imperfect cocoons.

Perches <Medium grade French linen.

Perching Inspection of the fabric aftertaken from the loom and before fin-

ishing to detect imperfections.

Perle Woolen dress goods having the napraised in forms of dots from the fill-

ing yarns.

Permanents In England, a light cottoncloth, used for trimming; it is dyedin various colors and is often fin-

ished with a gloss.

Permo 1, English dress goods, made ofmohair warp twisted together withcotton. The cotton is removed bycarbonizing after the weaving; 2,

patented finishing process, consistingin the removal, through carbonization,of the cotton yarn which was woventogether with the single mohair yarnsin order to give strength to the mo-hair during the process of weaving.

Pernambuco Finest of Brazilian cottonshaving a strong and somewhat wirystaple of light golden color.

Peropus or Parapes English worsted of

the 17th century similar to camlet.

Perpetuana 17th century stout Englishworsted similar to lastings.

Perpetuelle A fine, closely woven, verydurable worsted serge in France andEngland.

Perroquets French hemp sailcloth.

Perrotine Printing Is done by blocksfastened to an iron frame. The clothis passing between the blocks andiron plates; used for printing hand-kerchiefs.

perse Obsolete French printed or paint-ed cottons made in Oriental designs.Also obsolete general term for print-ed cottons.

Persening 'Waterproofed jute and linen

fabrics.

Persian Very light silk lining, printedwith large flowers; used in Englandin the 18th century.

Persian Berries Yellow color used in

eteam calico printing; yielded by theberries of the buckthorn.

Persian Cord 1, thin, washable dress

goods of wool warp and a heavier, cot-

ton filling, the latter forming fine

ribs, finished only on the face; 2,

weft face fabric, consisting of cot-ton warp and worsted filling, twowarp threads being run -through eachheald, thus forming ribs.

Persian Cross Stitch Or rep stitch

used in embroidery, it is a varietyof the cross stitch, composed of a longtent stitch, taking over six horizon-tal threads in a slanting directionand over two threads in height; this

stitch is crossed over in the middlelike a cross stitch.

Persian Knot One of the two differentknots in which the pile is tied in

hand made Oriental rugs and car-

pets. A loop is formed around the

warp thread and is tightened by be-

ing pulled. Thus the pile is placed be-tween all warp threads. It is alsocalled Senna knot.

Persian Lawn A fine, plain woven, sheerlinen fabric, is often printed.

Persian Rugs 'The finest among Oriental

rugs. Made of silk, cotton or wool,the warp mostly of cotton, withshort, close, velvet like pile. The col-

ors are very soft, lustrous, the de-sisns consist of floral and also ofanimal patterns. The shapes areusually oblong.

Persiana Thin silk fabric, woven plainand printed with large flower pat-terns.

Persienne Fancy French caMcoes, madein imitation of East Indian calicoes;obsolete.

Perte Unbleached French hemp sailcloth,the (finer grades being used as beddinglinen.

PER 120 PIE

Peruvian Sea Island Peruvian cotton,having a long, very fine andmoderately strong fiber of goldenbrown color.

Peruvienne Heavy French silk withmulti-colored flower patterns; ob-solete.

Petaline Embroidery Of Japanese origin;the petals and leaves of the flowersare stamped separately on silk orlinen, a fine non-rusting wire is

couched around the edge; this is

fastened down with long and shortbuttonhole stitches and the entirepetal or leaf is covered with whiteor colored silk. It is then cut outand the petals combined into a flowerand attached to the foundation; thedifferent petals or leaves can be bentto imitate nature more closely.

Petanelle A fabric, being the mixture ofchemically treated peat and wool,made in England according to a sec-ret process and said to have hygienicproperties; used for shirts and clothes.

Petate IMats made by the natives of thePhilippines of the leaves of the buripalm, the pandang or a sedge.

Petenuche French term for a low gradeof silk waste.

Peteria White, silky, but rather weakpita fiber from Brazil.

Peterkin 'Commercial variety of mediummaturing upland cotton, the staplemeasuring 22-25 millimeters; theyield is 34-36 per cent; also Texaswood, Wise and Crossland.

Petersburg Flax Fine Russian flax ofnatural brownish shade.

Petersham 1, thick ribbons made in all

colors, moire finished; used for waistbelting; 2, a very thick, waterproofwoolen coating of dark blue color inEngland; used for overcoats by theseamen; 3, rough faced, heavy woolenovercoating, woven with nub yarns.

Petin A French cloth made of mixtureof wool and camels' hair.

Petits Carreaux Plain French serge,made with eight leaves and four picksin a repeat.

Petit Drap 'French term for a light, plainwoven woolen.

Petite Draperie French term for all-woolen or worsted fabrics which arenot subject to fulling or shrinkingafter they are woven.

Petit Grain French term for stout silktaffeta made of heavy yarn.

Petit Gulf Commercial variety of mediummaturing upland cotton, the staplemeasuring 22-25 millimeters; theyield is 30-32 per cent.

Petit Point Stitch Same as tent stitch.

Petit Poussin Narrow French bobbinlace, made of fine thread with simpledelicate patterns.

Petit Toile Stout and fine French linenof red and white or blue and whitestripes or checks.

Petit Velours French term of light cot-ton velvet.

Petit Venise Obsolete fine damask tablelinen with small designs often con-sisting of square checks; made inFrance and Holland.

Pfelle Medieval silk fabric of Arabic ori-

gin.

Philip and Cheney Obsolete English fab-ric of unknown structure.

Phillizellies 17th century English wors-ted, same as Peropus.

Phoras Sheer East Indian cotton cloth.

Photee The finest variety of cottongrown along the Brahmaputra; usedfor the best grades of Dacca mus-lin.

Phrygian Work Antiquated name for

embroidery.

Phrygienne French silk satin dress goodswith small brocaded patterns; ob-solete.

Phthalic Anhydride Very bright red arti-

ficial, direct dyestuffs, used mostlyon animal fibers. They fade easily.

Piara Variety of raw cotton from Peru.

Piassava Brown, stiff and wiry fiber,

yielded by the leaf stalks of the mon-key bass tree in Brazil; used forbrooms and coarse ropes.

Picarde Ratine A French cotton fabric,resembles the Turkish toweling of alight weight and flat weave; made40 inches wide.

Pichina Wide French twilled woolensuiting made of natural brown wool.

Formerly used by religious sects, nowobsolete.

Pick The weft which is shot through thefabric at every flight of the shuttle.It 'might extend from selvage to sel-

vage or only part of the width of thefabric.

Pickings Tufts of short merino wool,containing dry vegetable matter.

Picklock A wool sorting term, meaningthe second best sort in the fleece,used for cording.

Picot Loops along the selvage of a fabric,made by placing in the loom a wire

parallel to the selvage of the fabric,this wire catching certain picks in

the weave. After the fabric is woven,the wire is removed, leaving the loopsbehind; 2, in laces small loops dec-

orating the edges of the pattern.

Picot Yarn Same as loop yarn.

Picotte Inferior, all-wool, light camletmade in Flanders; obsolete.

Piece A fabric woven in lengths varyingfrom 24 yards to 100 yards and over.

Piece Dyed 'Fabrics dyed after woven orknitted. The dyestuff usually doesnot penetrate clear through the bodyof the fabric.

Piece Goods 1, all textile fabrics wovenin lengths, to be sold by the yard;2, especially such woolen and worstedfabrics.

Pieces 'Small bunches of wool stapletaken during the sorting from variousfleeces and sold in lots.

PIE 121 PIN

Pieds Courts A French tapestry velvet.

Pielles Cabrados or Negros Lightweightwool trouserings in South America.

Piemontaise French unfinished silk

fabric made of ply warp; used for

dresses, etc. There are 12 leaves and12 fillings in a repeat; obsolete.

Pierced Cocoon Cocoon from which the

moth came out by piercing the wall.

It cannot be reeled, but is used for

spun silk.

Pigment Style Method of textile print-

ing, used mostly on cotton piece goods.Insoluble pigments are mixed with a

thickener and the matter applied to

the fabric; the thickener will fix the

color to the cloth after it was set

by steam.

Pignas 'Colored cotton handkerchiefs in

Venezuela.

pjje A coarse and thick woolen fabric

made in Holland.

Pile Yarn in certain fabrics, like velvet,

velveteen, terry, astrakhan, etc.,

covering the face of the fabric (en-

tirely or partly) and showing not its

side like the warp and weft but its

end. The pile is warp p., weft p., or

knotted pile according to the methodof weaving and cut, loop or curl pile,

according to the finish. Warp pile

is formed by a set of warp ends,

separate from the ground warp, whichare carried at certain intervals overwires. When these wires are removed,the loops formed by the pile are left

or again these loops can be cut. Silk

and wool velvets and certain pile rugshave such a pile. Weft pile is formedby a set of filling threads separatefrom the ground weft, forming floats

on the fabric. These floats are cutand brushed up. Velveteen has sucha pile. Knotted pile is found on hand-made rugs. It Is formed by tyingvarious colored wool, silk or cotton

yarn to the warp threads. The yarnis cut off and shorn at even length.

In loop pile, which is always formed

by warp threads, these are not cut

tout left in a loop as woven like terry.

In cut pile, formed either by warp or

filling threads, the loops of the warpor the floats of the weft are cut,

forming short lengths of yarn (pile)

which is erect or laid down, but is

always straight. The length of the

pile is different, being shorter in vel-

vet than in plush. Curl pile is usually

produced by warp threads, whenwoven, although the same effect is

also obtained by knitting. This warpthread is wound around a core andset before weaving. After cutting the

loops, the pile regains its curliness

(see astrakhan). In order to preventthe pile from separating from the

ground easily, it is often lashed, 1. e.

carried under two and over onethread, instead of only under onethread. The nap on fleece lined un-derwear is also called pile.

Pile Fabric See corduroy, velveteen,terry velvet, plush, velours, astrakhan,Utrecht velvet and the various rugsand carpets, both hand made and ma-chine woven. See also: pile.

Pile on Pile Fabric having patternsformed by a pile of a different length.The difference in the length of pileon the same fabric can be obtained

by weaving or shearing. In weaving(if pile warp is used) wires are em-ployed having varying thickness alongtheir length or if the pile is producedby the filling the floats are made of

different length, shorter floats pro-ducing shorter pile than long floats.

A greater variety of patterns can beobtained by shearing the evenlywoven pile. Part of the pile is presseddown and the remaining erect pileis shorn short. After the presseddown parts are brushed up again theywill have a longer pile and thus forma design.

Pile Warp A set of warp threads,separate from the warp forming the

ground. It is carried over wires ofvarious thicknesses, at intervals, thusforming the pile.

Pillow In England a cotton and linen

dimity, the face finished smooth,napped or printed.

Pillow Cord 'Bright colored cotton or silk

cord, used by upholsterers.

Pillow Lace 'See bobbin lace.

Pillow Linen In England a fine linen

fabric, containing 150 ends and picksin a square inch, used for pillow cas-

ing.

Pillow Tubing Cotton pillow casing,woven without any seam.

Pilot Cloth Heavy, stout and cqarsenavy blue twilled woolen fabric fin-

ished with a nap; used by seamen.

Pilsworth In Turkey a bleached cotton

cloth, with a soft linen finish, verylittle sized.

Pin Check Very small check pattern.

Pin Rib Very fine warp cord in some of

the fabrics.

Pina Cloth .Made in the Philippine Is-

lands of the fibers of the pineapple.It is very thin and transparent.

Pinara Variety of raw cotton from Peru.

Pinasses East Indian cloth made of purebast fibers; it has a yellow or browncolor.

Pinchina 1, originally a heavy, all-wool,

plain woven fulled French cloth madeabout 52 inches wide. Formerly it

was perfumed; 2, an inferior, all-wool,twilled suiting of same width, made of

coarse undyed wool; 3, name for a.

variety of narrow and medium widedroguets.

Pincop Cotton weft yarn.

Pine Tree Very stout, heavy, fulled

knitted woolen fabric, used for cloth-

ing in Canada.

Pine Wool Pine leaf fibers, knitted into

underwear or woven into coarse cloth.

PIN 122 PLA

Pineapple Fiber Soft, very fine, lustrousand durable leaf fiber, yielded by the

pineapple in the Philippine Islands.It is one of the very finest amongthe fibers and used for the sheerestmuslins.

Pinguin Long, weak and coarse leaf

fiber, yielded by a species of the wildpineapple in Jamaica.

Pinking Cutting the edge of the fabricin scalloped form.

Pinsheds Little loops of gold threadfound in single spots on somemedieval velvets.

Pintado 1, an East Indian calico; 2,

ordinary cotton prints in Latin Amer-ican countries.

Pique 1, stout, strong cotton or linendress goods, woven either in cross rib

effects or in figures. It is made withtwo sets of warp and one (or in thaheavier grades two) sets of filling,

the heavy filling forming the rib ef-

fects, etc., the back warp bindingthe face and back together. Used for

dresses, vests, etc.; 2, name for silk

waste yielded by damaged, stained or

imperfect cocoons.

Pique Anglais Solid colored French serge,having eight leaves and eight picks in

a repeat.

Pique -Damas .Solid colored silk Frenchdress goods; obsolete.

Piquete^Corded twilled French vesting,made with eight warps and four picksin a repeat.

Piramides 17th century fine and narrowEnglish worsted, made with two-colored yarns.

Piranshahi Siah Dyed nainsook in Persia.

Pirenean Wool Very fine, loose twistEnglish woolen yarn for knitting.

Piripiri 'Fine stem fiber of the Pipturusargenteus in Tahiti; used for cords,nets and bags.

Pirl Gold or silver thread made spiralby winding.

Pirle An English finishing process,rendering the woolen fabrics water-proof and unshrinkable.

Pirn A conical shape, over a conicalwooden core, into which weft yarnis wound for the loom, mostly in thelinen weaving. The yarn is laid par-allel.

Pishteh In the Bible means flax andlinen.

Pita Very long, strong, glossy, white andsilky fiber, yielded by the variousagaves and pineapples in CentralAmerica. Used for threads, fine

hammocks, etc.

Pitambar Yellow colored silk or cottonfabric; used as loin cloth in India.

Pitch^l, in hand-made carpets and rugsthe number of knots in a square inch;2, in loom-made carpets and rugs thenumber of warp ends in 27 inches.

Pitchy Wool in the grease.

PittCommercial variety of prolific up-land cotton from Mississippi, now ob-solete.

Pittman Commercial variety of earlymaturing and prolific cotton fromLouisiana, the staple measuring 23-25millimeters; the yield is about 31 percent.

Placarder Ffench term for a resist dye-ing process by which the ground willtake the dye but the pattern remainswhite.

Plagae 'Linen sheeting in ancient Rome.

Plaid A large variety of twilled cotton,woolen, worsted or silk fabrics, wovenin tartan pattern, consisting of coloredbars crossing each other at rightangles and forming large squares. Alsoa coarse worsted shawl, woven simi-larly, and worn in Scotland.

Plaiding Obsolete English kersey.

Plain 1, a wool with little crimp; 2,

fabrics without any ornament as toweave or color.

Plain Braid Flat braid made of threethreads.

Plain Gauze Leno weave where the warpthreads cross other warps always in

the same direction.

Plain Knitting Knitted fabric made withuniformly constructed loops lying in

similar direction. It has a different

appearance on each side.

Plain Weave The simplest among all

weaves, the principle of which is that

only one warp and weft crosseach other at one time (see twill).The relative count of the warp andthe weft and the count of the fabricoffer the greatest variety. The warpand filling can be of the same count,or nearly so, as in taffeta, muslin,voile, chiffon, "batiste, etc. In someof the plain woven fabrics (like warpcords) the warp is of considerablylower count than the filling, while in

Ottomans, failles and other crossribbed fabrics the filling is muchheavier than the warp. It is alsocalled taffeta or linen weave.

Plainback An English worsted fabric,

originated in the 19th century; it is

made of single yarn with a twilledface and plain back in imitation of

jean.Plaindin Obsolete Scotch wool serge.

Plains Medieval English worsteds.

Plaited Stitch Or herringbone stitch usedin embroidery to imitate the herring-bone effect.

Plaiting The felting of the hair or woolfor hat bodies, by means of heat,moisture and pressure.

Plantain Strong bast fiber of the plan-tain tree (Platanus), similar to theManilla hemp. Used in India for

cordage and mats.

Planting A process in weaving by whichthe various colored extra warps are

interchanged.Plated Knit Goods Two separate yarns,

cotton and silk or cotton and wool,are laid on the needles and formedinto loops on the framework in sucha manner that each yarn appears onlyon one side of the fabric.

PLA 123 POI

Platille A fine quality of pure Frenchlinen.

Platt Machine lace made flat without anyraised work. The pattern is workedby threads running in zig zag line

between straight and parallel threads.Some of these laces have the designoutlined by a heavier thread whileothers are made without this out-line.

Pleasaunce Fine lawn, used for dressesand veils under Henry VIII of Eng-land.

Pleures French term for pulled wool,taken from sheep that died of naturalcauses.

Plodan In the 16th century a coarsewoolen made in two or three coloredchecks worn in Scotland by citizens'

wives for cloaks. Believed to be theearly form of plaid.

Plommett A 16th century fabric in Eng-land, made of worsted and silk orlinen, the piece weighing 4 Ibs. andmeasuring 14 yards.

Plucked Wool Shorn from a carcassseveral days old.

Pluie Lustrous dress goods and tapestry,made in France of silk or camel hair

warp with gold or silver threads inter-woven in the filling.

Plumetis Embroidery in feather stitchover a clear and light ground.

Plumette French woolen or silk mixeddress goods, not fulled; obsolete.

Plunket, Plonkete or Blunket. 1, in the15th century a blue color; 2, underEdward VI a coarse woolen fabric.

Plunket Azures BUue woolens fromEngland.

Plush 1, a warp pile fabric with a silkor wool pile, made longer than that ofthe velvet. There is no generally ac-cepted rule as to the length of thepile, although in some parts of Europeif the pile is 16-100 of an inch, orlonger, it is considered plush, if short-er, velvet. Used for dresses, coats, dra-pery, according to quality. Doubleplush pile on both sides; 2, a termused in knit goods; see single plushand double plush.

Plush Stitch A stitch applied in Berlinwork to form a fringe along the edgeof the embroidery and it is left eitherin loop form or is cut.

Ply 1, the strand composing the threador yarn, being usually twisted theopposite direction than the thread. Thenumber of plies express the construc-tion of the yarn; 2, the layer of fa-brics in a men's collar for instance.

Pochote Very fine and lustrous fiberyielded by the Eriodendron anfrac-tuosum in Mexico. It is similar to thekapok. The fiber is used for finecloth and for hats, in this case mixedwith rabbit's fur.

Pocket Drill Stout, unbleached cottondrill, used for pockets.

Pocketing Cotton velvet used for over-coat pockets; also napped cottonsused for the same purpose.

Poll 1, French term for pile; 2, silk threadused as core for gold tinsel, consist-ing eight or 10 reeled filaments twist-ed together.

Poile de Chevre Fine, soft French dressgoods made with colored silk or cot-ton warp and angora filling.

Point 1, in hand-made laces denotingfine quality, irrespective of the make;2, French term for stitch in laces.

Point a I' Aiguille Lace sprigs made withthe needle, irrespective of the de-sign.

Point D'Alencon Same as Alencon lace.

Point Anglaise French for feather stitch.

Point D' Angleterre Originated in Eng-land as bobbin lace, improved uponby Flemish needle point stitches inthe 17th century. The ground showsgreat variety, the net ground beingbobbin-made around the patterns.Often cordonnet or ribs are producedby plaiting the threads and also bob-bin made brides or fancy needle joursare employed.

Point d'Anvers Same as Antwerp lace.

Point Applique Applique lace, made of

needle-point sprigs attached to a netground.

Point d'Arabe Coarse French bobbincurtain lace of Arabian origin, madeof ecru cord with large patterns.

Point d'Armes An embroidery stitchused on transparent materials forleaves and flowers, showing on theface a hemstitch while the threadsare crossed in the back in a closalattice fashion.

Point dIAttache A variety of stitches In

embroidery, by which fancy mate-rial is attached to the foundation.

Point de Biais Embroidery stitch con-sisting of slanting satin stitches madeof different length.

Point Bisette Same as Bisette lace.

Point de Brabancon lA flat filling usedin needle-point laces, consisting ofrows of buttonhole stitches linked to-

gether.

Point a Brides Generic term for laceswith bars in the ground.

Point Brode Bobbin lace sprigs, madewith raised work.

Point de Bruges See Bruges lace.

Point de Bruxelles^See Brussels lace.

Point de Cable Same as rope stitch.

Point Cam pan Narrow French bobbinlace edging of the 17th century.

Point a Carreaux A French bobbin lacemade with a simple, trellis-like pat-tern.

Point de Chainette Same as chain stitch.

Point de Champ All laces having a meshground, irrespective of style.

Point de Chant See Point de Paris.

Point Chaudieu In macrame lace a chainbar, formed by looping one threadaround the other.

Point Chemin de Fer Same as railwaystitch in embroidery.

POI

Point de Cone In guipure lace a coneshaped form stretching over foursquare meshes and filled in with clothstitch.

Point de Cordova A filling in needle-pointlaces, made stretching three threadsclose to each other and darning doteover.

Point de Cote Same as rope stitch.

Point Coute See Darned lace.

Point Crochet A lace made by crochet-ing; the various sprigs are made sep-arate and joined together with bars,resulting in a guipure lace.

Point Croise An embroidery stitch whichforms in the front rows of continuousshort stitches (like the hemstitch)while the thread is crossed in theback.

Point de Croix Same as cross stitch.

Point de Diable An embroidery stitch,

consisting of a star with eight raysin a square.

Point de Dieppe Same as Dieppe point.

Point Double See Point de Paris.

Point Duchesse See Bruges lace.

Point d'Echelle A variety of ladder stitch

in embroideries in which the barsare stitched across an open space.

Point d'Epine Same as feather stitch.

Point d'Escaliei Same as ladder stitch.

Point d'Espagne Heavy guipure-likeneedle-point lace of the 17th and 18thcenturies somewhat resembling Pointde Venise and made of gold or silver

thread with thick cordonnet outlines.

Point d'Esprit 1, machine net with smalldots scattered all over; 2, light andopen stitches in needle guipure laces,

consisting of loops forming variouspatterns in the square meshes.

Point d'Etoile iA stitch over square meshground in needle-point laces; it is amore or less ornate star, coveringnine or 16 squares.

Point Evantail In guipure laces fan-shaped spots formed by darningstitches.

Point Faisceau A heavy stitch in needle-

point laces, consisting of herringbonestitches joined with a loop in thecenter.

Point de Feston A filling in needle-pointlaces, consisting of festoons fastenedwith a knot at every loop.

Point de Feuillage In raised macramelace a bar made with four threads.

Point de Filet A ground in needle-pointlaces made by fastening loc-ps to eachother in buttonhole stitch, which forma filet mesh.

Point de Flanders See Brussels lace.

Point de France Term applied to Frenchneedle-point laces similar to the Pointde Venise started by Colbert in the

17th century.

Point de Gauze Very fine needle-pointmesh for Brussels lace.

124 POI

Point de Genes 1, a species of Aetzstick-erei (see), made on a wool ground; 2,a stitch over square mesh in needle-point lace; two or three threads arestretched diagonally across severalsquares of the mesh and fastened to-gether by darning.

Point de Gerbe A stitch in guipure lace,made by looping a thread severaltimes around the opposite sides ofa square mesh, forming buttonholeloops on one side; the threads aredrawn together at the middle in abuttonhole stitch.

Point de Gibeciere A bar in macramelace formed by four threads, dividedinto two even groups and looped overeach alternately.

Point de Gobelin See Gobelin stitch.

Point de Grecque^A ground in needle-point laces, consisting of darnedsquare spots alternating with octag-onal meshes.

Point Guipure See guipure lace.

Point de Havre Narrow French needle-point lace of the 17th and 18th cen-turies, similar to Valenciennes.

Point d'Hongrie French rug of hempwarp and silk filling with various fig-ures.

Point d'lrlande Inferior machine imita-tion of Venise lace.

Point Jesuit Crochet imitation of Veniselaces made in Ireland.

Point de Jours In embroidery openspaces with buttonholed edge andsome filling.

Point Lace iMade by the needle andthread. The term "point" applied alsoto very fine bobbin laces.

Point Lache In needle-point laces trian-gles filling half of the square meshes;they consist of rows of buttonholestitches linked together.

Point Lance iAn embroidery made withshort, straight and broken stitches incolored wool.

Point de Malines '1, same as Maline lace;2, a filling used in needle-point laces,consisting of small circles, button-holed all around and connected witheach other in a zig-zag line.

Point de Marli A bobbin made net usedas ground for bobbin laces in the18th century.

Point de Marque Same as cross stitch.

Point de Medicis Old name for Italian

needle-point lace with raised cordon-net.

Point Mexique In Mexican embroiderythe outlining buttonhole stitch in

black or colored silk.

Point de Milan 'Lace with a small meshground and large trailing scroll pat-tern.

Point a la Minute Cross and star shapedstitches; used to fill in small spaces.

Point de Moscow Early Italian needle-point laces in Russian designs. Seealso Russian lace.

POI 125 POL

Point Natte 1, embroidery made withpieces of bright satin appliqued ona dark foundation, the edges fast-

ened with braid; the pieces of satinare embroidered in floss silk or woolyarn; 2, an embroidery stitch ar-

ranged in herringbone effect withouta center line.

Point Neige 1, needle-point lace of veryfine design ornamented with variousloops and picots; 2, a crochet work,made with regular open places andstitches radiating from each open-ing; used for quilts and jackets.

Point Net Xet made by the needle andused as ground for applique laces be-fore the invention of the bobbinet.

Point None Same as buttonhole stitch.

Point Noue In needle-point laces a knot-ted buttonhole stitch.

Point Ondule Double bar in macramelace.

Point d'Or See Point de Pois.

Point de Paris 'Narrow French bobbinlace of the 17th century, similar toBrussels.

Point de Paris Ground For black bobbinlaces, consisting of hexagons and tri-

angles.

Point Passe Same as satin stitch in em-broidery.

Point Pecheur Italian bobbin lace, madein white or black, similar to the Mal-tese lace.

Point Perle Same as satin stitch.

Point Plat In laces such patterns whichhave no raised parts.

Point Plat Applique 'Modern Belgiumlace of bobbin made sprigs appliedto machine-made net.

Point de Plume A padded satin stitch.

Point Plumetis Same as feather stitch.

Point de Pois 'An embroidery stitch, con-sisting of small dots.

Point de Poste See Point de Pois.

Point de Pyramide Same as Point daCone.

Point de Raccroc Same as Raccrocstitch.

Point de Ragusa Same as Ragusa lace.

Point de Repasse See cloth stitch.

Point de Reprise A filling in needle-pointlaces, consisting of darned triangularspots.

Point a Reseau Needle-point lace, thepattern being formed by the meshes ofthe ground.

Point de Riz In embroidery short, irreg-ularly scattered stitches with a fan-cied resemblance to rice.

Point de Rose 1, one of the most deli-cate needle laces, made originally inVenice, where the art revived of late.The beautiful and intricate patternsare made in raised effect, connectedwith bars; 2, a stitch in embroidery,consisting of broad buttonhole stitchesover a padded surface.

Point Russe Short straight stitches in

fancy embroidery, forming geometri-cal patterns, Irke stars, diamonds,crosses, etc.

Point de SableSee Point d'Armes.

Point Saracene French tapestry made in

imitation of Turkish carpets.Point Serre A stitch in needle-point laces;

the thread is carried diagonally acrosseach square mesh, looped and drawntight and carried across the followingmeshes in zigzag line.

Point de Sorrento Ground in needle-pointlaces; it consist sof a series of longloose loops, each worked around bya number of loose buttonhole stitches,

Point Tiellage A stitch in needle-pointlaces; the thread is carried diagonal-ly across a square mesh and twistedhalf way around the knot in the cor-ner and carried afterwards throughthe next mesh. A second thread is

carried between the same corners ofthe squares, but as it is twisted the

opposite way around the corners, it

forms a slight angle with the first

thread.

Point de Tigre Same as overcast stitch.

Point Tire See drawnwork.Point de Toile See cloth stitch.

Point Tresse i!6th century pillow lace of

human hair.

Point de Tricot In crocheting forminglarge open squares by chain stitches;used for fancy quilts, made of heavywool yarn.

Point de Tulle 1, see Mignonette; 2. avery fine ground in needle-point laces.

Point Turc 1, a filling in needle-pointlaces, consists of rows of interlinkedfestoons fastened to straight threads;2, same as ladder stitch in embroid-ery.

Point de Valenciennes 1, same as Valen-ciennes lace; 2, a filling in needle-

point laces, consisting of squares sep-arated by open work; the squaresare made of rows of buttonholestitches linked together.

Point de Venise 1, the finest of the

needle-point laces, the characteristics

being the padded cordonnets, the de-

sign often being raised repeatedly,the great variety and fineness of thestitches and the rich ornamentation of

the edges of the patterns and thebrides with picots and stars; 2, a fill-

ing in needle-point laces, consisting of

rows of festoons, the loops in everyalternate row being fastened withfour buttonhole stitches.

Pointed Twill >A twill weave, producinga zig-zag effect.

Pointille 'French for small dots.

Polarin In England curl pile fabrics witha cut mohair pile.

Poldavis Coarse, plain woven linen; usedin England.

Polemieten See Dutch camlet.

Polemite Holland and French solid col-

ored camlet, made of two-ply Angorawarp and worsted filling, formingcross ribs.

POL 126 POW

Polish Rugs 'Made in Warsaw in the 16thcentury in a factory established byMersherski. The pile is of silk havinggold and silver weft threads inter-woven.

Poll sea ux 'Coarse, stout French linencanvas of various widths.

Polished Twine Two-ply coarse hemp orflax twine with a smooth finish; usedIn stores to tie packages with.

Polishing >A finishing process in whichthe yarn is stretched and given asmooth surface and gloss with starch,wax, etc.

Polka Dot Round printed dots differingin color from the ground.

Polka Gauze Swivel embroidered dotsscattered over a gauze ground; usedfor dresses, etc.

Polledavy Unbleached French hemp sail-

cloth.

Pollock Commercial variety of fairly

early maturing American cotton, the

staple measuring 35-40 millimeters.

Polo Cloth Double faced, soft and looselywoven woolen cloth; the nap is raised

and shorn.

Polonaise Corded silk dress goods, madein France.

Polychrome Bobbin lace made of fine silk

threads of various colors.

Polyreflets French plush having patternsproduced by the inclination of the

pile at different angles.

Pompadour Design mostly on silks andribbons, showing bouquets in soft,

shades.

Pompadour Serge English woolen sergewith small flower patterns.

Pompadour Taffeta Rich dress silk

originated under Louis XV., havingwide satin or ribbed stripes on ataffeta foundation with large, brightcolored flowers, often executed in

pile.

Poncho 1, a narrow woolen blanket,made with cotton warp and woolen.filling napped and well fulled, beingmade quite waterproof; used in

camping; 2, cotton or woolen fabric,

made in plain, twill or rep weave with

fringes at the ends, usually with cof-

fee brown stripes; used as overcoatin Argentine, Uruguay and Paraguay,having a slit in the center for the

head.

Pondicherry Dyed cotton goods in the

African markets.

Pongee 'Plain woven, light weight fabric,

made of ecru wild silk in India andChina; used for dresses.

Pongee Imperial A rich, plain wovenand highly finished silk dress goods,made of pongee silk.

Pongee Print A fine and light cotton

goods with a soft finish, printed with

stripes and dots; used in South Af-rica.

Ponson Velvet Heavy velvet, made all

silk or only with silk pile; used for

women's coats and cloaks.

Pontiac Dark gray, stoutly knitted andwaterproof woolen fabric; used forskirts and coats for outdoor wear.

Pontivy Obsolete French linen shirtingof various grades.

Poor Man's Commercial variety of me-dium maturing upland cotton fromCalifornia, the staple measuring 22-24millimeters; the yield is 34-36 percent.

Poplin 1, the real Irish poplin originallyhad fine organzine warp and a heav-ier woolen filling, forming cross ribs;2, fabrics having fine, cross ribs ir-

respective of the material they aremade of. The better grades are dyedin the yarn; used for coats, dresses,etc. Single poplin has very fine crossribs, the double poplin is muchstouter and has prominent ribs.

Poplinette In England a variety ofgrenadine, similar to a very light pop-lin.

Porcelain Lace Lace steeped in thicksolution of kaolin and fired which de-stroys the fibers but leaves the porce-lain behind.

Port Philip Fine Australian merino wool.Port Cabello Raw cotton from Colom-

bia.

Porto Rico Cotton Has silky, soft,white staple, grown in the West In-dies.

Poster Rug Woven of rags with whitewarp, having borders in several col-ors, showing landscapes, flowers, etc.

Pot A length of usually 10,000 yards,into which pieces of linen are sewedtogether previous to bleaching.

Pota Species of the Pandanus in theSolomon Islands; used for the finestmats.

Potassium Chlorate Used to oxidize ani-line black.

Potassium Permanganate Used forbleaching wool.

Potten Kant (Characteristic pattern ofthe Antwerp lace (see), consisting ofa pot or vase and conventionalizedflowers. Originally the pattern pic-tured the Annunciation.

Poulangy Coarse and stout Frenchtwilled suiting, made in solid colorswith linen warp and woolen filling.

Pouldavid French sailcloth of hemp(same as Polledavy).

Poult de la Reine Very heavy silk dressgoods, woven with a pebbled surface.

Poult de Soie Solid colored silk fabric,made in plain weave with a two-plywarp and a heavier filling containingmore than two strands and formingcross ribs; used for dresses.

Pounce To raise the nap on a felt hatwith emery paper.

Pouritache Similar to the soutache braid

only much heavier.

Poussin Very light, narrow French lace,

similar to Valenciennes.

Powdering Dotted pattern strewn all

over the fabric.

ROW 127 PRU

Powel Davies See Poldavis.

Prayer Rugs Oriental'

rug of usuallysmall size; used by tie Moslems to

kneel on when praying. The chiefcharacteristic is the representation ofa niche' o-r arched doorway at oneend, sometimes with the tree of life ora lamp hanging from the middle; oc-

casionally there are only three me-dallions, two for the knees and onefor the head.

Precieuse Plain woven striped silk dressgoods.

Prein A German process by which the

shearing of the goods is eliminated

by pressing all irregular fibers into

the body of the cloth while it is in

the loom.

Prelate French sailcloth and tent can-vas, made of hemp and coated withtar.

Premium Commercial variety of earlymaturing upland cotton, the staplemeasuring 23-27 millimeters; the

yield is 32-33 per cent; also calledPeerless.

President A double woolen fabric, theface made with cotton warp andwoolen filling in five-leaf satin weave,the back with an extra mohair filling

in two and one weave.

President Braid A twilled woven braidwith diagonal ribs; used for trim-ming.

Presidents In Europe napped woolenfabrics, made with a large proportionof shoddy or mungo.

Press A finishing process, consisting in

pressing the fabric between heatedplates or cylinders.

Press Cloth A strong camels' hair cot-ton or linen fabric, plain woven; usedgenerally for filtering.

Prexillas Crudas Gray or half bleachedcanvas in Spain and Latin America;made of flax waste.

Prime Merino clothing wool taken fromsides of a very fine fleece or shoulderof a good fleece.

Princess Stuff Obsolete English dressgoods, made with two-ply goats' hair

warp and silk filling.

Princesse Four-leaf silk satin dressgoods, made with single warp.

Princesse Cashmere 'French cotton dress

fabric, made in imitation of cash-mere.

Princetta An English worsted fabrK' in

the 19th century, made with silk warpand worsted filling; originally madeof pure worsted.

Prints Generic name for printed cotton

fabrics, as a different class fromwhite goods. They come in warp andcalico prints in a greit variety of

weaves, either with fast selvag-3 ormade as splits.

Printing A great variety of processes for

decorating textiles of all descriptionsby applying to certain parts variouscolors or chemicals. Printing can beapplied to the sliver for mixture yarneffect (see Vagoureux) to the warp orto the woven fabric.

Printing- differs from dyeing inas-much as it applies the color or chem-ical only to certain parts of the tex-tile by means of engraved cylindersor blocks while in dyeing the textilesare submerged in the color; the twoprocesses, however, are applied to-gether in many processes.

With the exception of India andother Oriental countries and a fewexpensive lines of silks where handprinting is still in use by means ofblocks; nr-inting is done by machinery,with a different engraved roll for eachcolor in the design. See also Perro-tine printing.

The fabrics are being prepared Ina variety of ways before printed on.Woolens are often chlorinated to in-crease their affinity for dyes or aretreated in weak solution of ammonia.Linens are scoured in soda or lime.Cottons are always singed and oftenbleached. They are also oftenmordanted or mercerized or scouredin soda or lime.

The more important styles of print-ing are: The pigment printing,where insoluble colors are fixed to thefabric by means of albumen; dischargeprinting where parts of a previouslydyed ground are destroyed by chem-icals applied in printing; mordantprinting for basic colors; resist print-ing, where the fabric is printed withsome ctipmical which prevents the sub-sequently applied dye to take effecton certain parts of the cloth. Thesestyles are combined in various ways.

Prolific A now obsolete commercialvariety of upland cotton, also calledVick and Sugar Loaf.

Promenette French woolen ribbons.

Prunella 1, name for the 2-1 warp facetwill; 2, an all-worsted English fab-ric of the 18th and 19th centuries,woven in three-end twill and usuallydyed in dark purple color; used forclergymen's clothes, women's shoetops, etc.; 3, at the present a verysirong, warpfaced fabric, made ofall-worsted or with cotton filling ina satin weave and is used for shoetops; it is similar to everlasting.

Prunelle 1, an obsolete, very fine Frenchwool dress fabric, made with a hardspun, two-ply warp and a three or

five-ply silk filling; it was usuallydyed black; 2, a French -serge dressfabric of the early part of the 19th

century, made with 12 ends and 6

picks in a repeat; 3, French for

prunella (see).

Prunelle Batarde Plain French serge,made with 8 or 10 ends and four orfive picks in a repeat.

PRU 128 QUA

Prussian Binding In England, made withsilk face and cotton back and is

twilled diagonally; is used as bind-ing on waterproofs and coats.

Prussian Shawls Frinsed, twilled cottonshawls printed in Oriental designs in

England.Prussian Velvet A German pile fabric,

made with cotton or linen warp andmohair filling, which forms the pile.

Prussienne French silk dress goodsoriginated in the middle of the 18thcentury, made with brocaded figuresformed by the warp; obsolete.

Pua Hemp Very strong bast fiber, re-

sisting water; found in Assam, Bur-mah, Japan, etc., where it is usedfor fishing nets, ropes, twine, bags,etc.

Puckered 'Cockled cloth.

Pudding Cloth Plain woven bleachedcotton fabric in England; used in

cooking.

Pugliese Variety of inferior raw cottonfrom South Italy.

Puke A woolen fabric worn during theMiddle Ages in England.

Pulled Wool Removed from the skin ofkilled sheep through "painting" thefleshy part with lime.

Pullicate Pale orange colored cottonhandkerchief, made during the endof the 18th and beginning of the 19thcentury In England for the SouthAmerican markets.

Pulling Cotton A test to determine thelength, strength and uniformity oflength of the fibers, in buying cottonfor mills. A small quantity of cottonis pulled apart with two hands, theprojecting long fibers separated fromthe rest and broken between twohands to test the strength.

Pullom Silky, yellowish seed hair of theBombax tree in Africa.

Pulu Soft, lustrous, Ions brown fibers,

obtained from the leaf stalks of thefern tree of Hawaii; used for stuf-

fing.

Punched Felt Wool stock of short staplebut good felting property is attachedto both sides of a burlap by barbedneedles. The wool is then felted.

Also called needle felt.

Punpee Chinese unfinished taffeta. SeeiPong'ee.

Pun jam Unbleached or piece dyed, close-

ly woven, East Indian cotton cloth.

Punta Arenas Very good, spongy andbulky wool, grown in the Terra del

Fuego; used for knit goods.

Punto 'Spanish and Italian for mesh orlace.

Punto Aquila lA medieval Italian linen

lace, made in the Abruzzi mountains.It was a bobbin lace, somewhat simi-lar to the English point, showing de-

signs with raised edges, both the de-

sign and the net ground, being madeat the same time of fine, bleached,hand spun linen yarn.

Punto in Aria Early Italian name for

needle-point lace.

Punto o Tul Cotton tulle in Venezuela.

Purdah 1, East Indian, blue and whitestriped cotton-; used for curtains, of-ten painted by hand; 2, closely wov-en, but very fine cotton or linen veil,worn by the women of hierh caste inIndia.

Pure Dye In the trade silk which doesnot contain other foreign matter ex-cept the dye.

Pure Finish Is without any weighting ordressing.

Purl 1, gold or silver embroidery threadconstructed like a spiral spring; 2,

see Bar.

Purl Knitting Framework knitting, theloops formed in reverse direction, bothsides of the fabric looking alike.

Purling Early English name for narrowedgings made in a loose plaited fash-ion.

Purnellow 18th century English fabricmade of all worsted.

Purse Silk Thick silk thread, madesmooth and soft; used for embroid-ery.

Purshed Velvet 'Medieval term for velvetthe pile of which was raised in a netpattern.

Purumu Fine, silky bast fiber, yielded bythe Sida carpinifolia in the CanaryIslands; used for cordage locally.

Pushmina or Pushum See Pashim.

PutEast Indian knotted rugs, made offine white wool.

Putang 'Narrow, very coarse homespuncotton cloth made in China.

Puttee >A tubular, plain knit fabric withfleece lining. The latter is formed bycatching an extra heavy, slack twist

yarn, which remains straight, by someof the loops; this yarn is napped in

the finishing.

Puttoo 1, East Indian inferior wool cloth;used for shawls; 2, East Indian infer-

ior goats' wool; 3, French dress goodsand coating of thick but light texture,

having a long nap which is of a light-er color than the body.

Puy Lace (French bobbin lace, made in agreat variety, mostly in black andwhite and also in silk guipures.

Puyuenchow Another native Chineseterm for pongee, made in widths of

30 and 32 inches and boiled out after

weaving.

Pylaken Obsolete English fulled cloth.

Pyrenean Wool Coarse Spanish wool;used for carpets.

Q

QuadrilleFrench for checked.

Qualin 'See Kalin.

Quality Binding A strong, twilled, widetape, made of coarse worsted; usedfor binding carpets.

QUA 129 RAI

Quarantain Fine French woolen cloth,

originally of 4,000 warp ends.

Quarter Means nine inches; a standardin measuring the width of woolensand worsteds in the U. S.

Quarter Diamond An 18th century pureworsted in England.

Quatre Fils Very strong French sail

cloth, made with four-ply warp.

Quebradinho Sort of raw cotton, grownon trees in Brazil.

Queddeng Coarse Philippine fiber; usedfor cordage.

Queen Commercial variety of uplandcotton, from Arkansas, the staplemeasuring 22-25 millimeters; the

yield is 34-36 per cent.

Queen's Cloth Trade term for a fine

bleached cotton shirting in Jamaica;usually a yard wide.

Queen Cord Stout, ribbed cotton trouser-

ing, made in England; obsolete.

Queen's Silk Rich, English dress silk of

black color; obsolete.

Queen Stitch Used in embroidery, con-sists of a square inside of anotherwith parallel sides.

Queensland Hemp 'Fine, strong fiber

yielded by the sida plant in Aus-tralia.

Quenkas Highly finished warp stripedIndian silk satins.

Quercitron A bright yellow mordantdyestuff, yielded by the bark of anoak, Quercus tinctoria, in SouthernUnited States.

Quill Embroidery See Canadian em-broidery.

Quilot The fine, white and glossy inner

fiber, yielded by the abaca plant:used for very flne fabrics by the na-

tives, but only little of it is found onthe market.

Quilt Bleached cotton or linen fabricswoven in fancy designs, either as a

single cloth, or reversible or as pad-ded fabrics.

Quilting See Matelasse.

Quinette Light weight French camlet,made of all wool, or mixe I with poats'

hair; obsolete. It was used for

skirts and lining.

Quintain Very fine lawn, made in Q.,

France; used for embroideries andlaces.

Quintes The best grade of French linen.

Quomotanetu Very strong bast fiber,

yielded by a species of the Asclepia-daceae in South Africa.

R

Rabattue Light and thin French linenfabric.

Rabanna A coarse fabric made of raffia

fibres in Madagascar.

Rabbit Hair Used for hats and as sub-stitute of vicuna, for shawls, etc.

Raccroc Stitch Used in joining the sep-arately executed pieces of lace to-

gether into a larger piece.

Race In pile fabrics the narrow spacebetween two adjoining rows of pile

Racked Stitch Same as shogged (see).

Radames See Rhadames.Radio Plain woven lustrous lightweight,

sheer French silk dress goods, comesprinted or dyed.

Radzimir A very fine, lustrous, stout silk

dress fabric in England, made in

plain weave but weft ribs; it is usual-

ly dyed black and used for mourn-ing.

Raffia Tough fibrous strips, yielded bythe epidermis of certain palms in

Africa; used for plaited goods, ma/ts,

etc.

Rag Rug Made of strong cotton warpand stripes of various colored rags,

forming patterns.

Rags Are classified': Carpets, skirting(women's dress goods and men's lin-

ing), merino (very fine women'sdress goods), flannel, linsey (all

other wool fabrics containing cotton),serge (braids, tresses, etc ), new (newclippings from tailors), rubbish (thelowest grades of rags). Each of this

is sorted again according to colors.

Ragusa Lace (Dalmatian needle-pointlace of early origin, eimilar to thePoint Venise. At the present pat-terns formed of picot edge silk or

gold tape are united with brides to

form laces.

Railroad Canvas Black or white andconsiderably sized cotton or linenfabric made with open texture; usedfor embroidery.

Railway Stitch Similar to leviathanstitch (see).

Rainbow Effect Produced in calico print-ing by the different colored fields

shaded into each other at the edges.

Raincloth Twilled or satin weave light

cotton, wool or silk cloth, dyed in the

piece and made waterproof by rub-

ber, oils, etc Used for raincoats.

Rainproof Same as waterproof.

Raised Colors In textile printing vari-

ous dyestuffs which are treated after

printing, in a bath which will fix or

develop the color.

Raised Embroidery Made with paddedor raised patterns over a flat founda-tion.

Raised Fabric Same as napped goods.

Raised Stitch In Berlin work, is called

also velvet stitch and is a variety of

the plush stitch (see); it is suitablefor raised wool work. The loops are

being cut and brushed, imitating the

pile of the velvet.

Raised Velvet 'Having the pattern form-ed by a higher pile than that cov-

ering the ground. See pile over pile.

Raised Work 'In hand-made laces the

raised edge of the sprigs.

RAI 130 REB

Raising The process of forming a napon a fabric by scratching or brush-ing.

Rajahs-Silk dress goods having nubs inthe texture, similar to pongee.

Rajmahal Hemp Very sEroujr, fine, silkyfibre, yielded by the Marsdenia tena-cissima in India; used for bowstringsand ropes.

Ram's Wool Shorn from male sheep; it

is stronger than other wool.

Ramage 'French for branching patterns.Rambouillet French merino wool of lus-

trous, strong, long staple.

Rameses -Commercial variety of earlymaturing upland cotton, the staplemeasuring up to 26 millimeters; theyield is 32-33 per cent.

Rameta 'Strong stem fiber of the Lasio-siphon speciosus, a tree in East India;used for ropes.

Ramie Very strong, fine and durable bastfiber of white silky color, yieldedby the Boehmeria plant of the nettlefamily, growing in China, America,etc. It is difficult to decorticate.Owing to its porousness it is used forunderwear.

Rampoor Chuddah Very fine and softEast Indian twilled woolen dress goodsin red, white and gray colors; alsoa fine shawl.

Ran 1, rope measure, 20 yards; 2, silky,long fibre, yielded by the Malachracapitata in tropical Africa and Amer-ica; used as substitute for jute.

Rancheria Grass used for mats, baskets,etc., by the Indians in the North-western States.

Random Yarn Fancy filling yarn, havinga strand wound around a differentcolored core.

Rangoon 'East Indian cotton, havinga short and weak staple of dull andstained brown color; contains muchleaf.

Ranter All-worsted fabric, made in Eng-land during the 18th century.

Rap A skein, containing 120 yards ofyarn.

Rapatelle Open-work horsehair cloth,used for sifting flour.

Ras Name of various twilled Frenchworsteds or serges; made either en-tirely smooth or only slightly napped.Also a lightweight, slightly fulledwoolen cloth, both absolete.

Ras de Cypre French silk dress goodswith cross ribs; comes usually inblack.

Ras de Florence Fine woolen men'swear, woven in fancy colored twills.

Ras de Maroc Narrow and lightweightFrench serge, made of Spanish wool.

Ras de Perse French woolen dress goods,little fulled; obsolete.

Ras de Saint Cyi Four-leaf, gray col-

ored, single face French serge of silk

warp and silk wool or cotton filling;

obsolete.

Ras de Saint Maur Black French sergeof silk warp and silk, cotton or woolfilling; was used for mourning; madesingle faced or taffeta back; obso-lete.

Rasete Sateens in Venezuela.

Rash 1, inferior silk cloth in England,often mixed with wool; obsolete; 2,16th century, very fine and costlyEnglish worsted.

Raso Italian for satin.

Rateen English all-wool lining serge,similar to frieze.

Ratine 1, all-wool or cotton warp over-coating, the heavy fleecy nap, formedby the weft, is rubbed into nubs inthe finishing process; 2, coarse, ma-chine made cotton lace, the designbeing made in terry weave.

Rattail Narrow, round soutache, usedfor trimming.

Rattan 'An exceedingly strong, toughand durable fibre, obtained in stripsfrom the stem of the rotang palm inAsia and Africa; used for chair seats,baskets, cordage, etc.

Ratti Coating A coarse twilled woolenfabric.

Rattinet Obsolete thin French woolenlining serge.

Raumois Coarse and unbleached Frenchticking.

Ravensduck Cotton sail cloth.

Raw 1, ginned cotton, as it is sold inthe bale; 2, wool without beingscoured; 3, silk after reeled from thecocoon but before it is boiled off ortwisted.

Rawaye Strong bast fibre, yielded by theCochlospermum in West Africa; usedfor ropes.

Ray Striped woolen fabric extensivelyused in England for clothing duringthe 12th century and afterward. Orig-inally it was made with warp stripes;later, under Edward n, with weftstripes. It came originally fromFlanders.

Rayadillos Wide cotton goods in thePhilippines, made usually in narrowblue and white warp stripes.

Raye French for striped.

Rayleigh Irregular bars in guipure lace.

Raynes Very fine linen of French origin,used in England for shirts and bed-ding during the 15th century. SeeCloth of Raynes.

Raypour Raw silk from East India.

Rebayn Medieval English name for fab-rics woven with gold patterns overblue silk ground, made at Cologne,Germany.

Reben A medieval fine cloth of un-known texture.

Rebozo 1, shawl, made of knitted silk

or wool, worn by Mexican women; 2,

fulled woolen fabric, usually black,navy or dark green, used for skirts

by the natives in Colombia.

REC 131 RET

Recouvees Stout French linon of naturalreddish color.

Recovered Wool Obtained by convertingwoolen rags into fibers by tearingthem up and reworking them again.Shoddy and mungo are recoveredwool.

Red Peruvian Cotton having a harsh,wiry staple of golden brown color.

Red Tape Cotton tape of red color usedin English law offices to tie bundlesof papers with.

Reed Rake Flaw in the cloth, similarto a pin scratch.

Reedy Flaw in the cloth, caused by sev-eral warp ends running through onedent.

Reel Linen yarn measure, equal to 72,-000 yards.

Reeling A preparatory process in themanufacture of silk, consisting in

placing the unbroken cocoons in hotwater and unwinding the single fila-

ments several of which are joined sideby side, without any twist and kepttogether by the natural gum of thesilk.

Refin French term for the best gradesof wools of any certain class.

Refine Very fine napped woolen fabric,used for livery.

Refleuret French term for best gradewool.

Reformee Stout French sail cloth.

Refoulets Obsolete fine French liningserge, made 20 inches wide.

Regain Average normal moisture whichthe fibre should contain, as for in-stance: cotton, raw or yarn, 8% percent; linen, 12 per cent; carded wooland wool waste, 18V4 per cent; woolyarn, 17 per cent; worsted yarn, 18^4per cent; jute, 13% per cent; silk,11 per cent; noil, 14 per cent.

Regatta A striped or checked cottonfabric, made in England with a twoand one, warp face twill and wellstarched filling; used for aprons, chil-dren's dresses, etc; 2, woolen fabric,made with alternating gray and col-ored or blue and white stripes ofequal width.

Regatta Stripes Good quality, equal blueand white striped calico used in

England as dress goods.

Regency Point A Bedfordshire bobbinlace, made during the 19th century,with a thick edge, originally withtape design on reseau ground, laterwith plaited ground and raised pat-terns similar to the Maltese laces.

Regenerated Wool -See under mungo andshoddy.

Regny Fine and durable French linenmade in R.

Regrettas Narrow cotton goods, mostlyin narrow blue and white stripes andblue filling; used in the PhilippineIslands.

Regular Twill Trade name for 45 de-gree twill weave, without any fancyfigure.

Rehani Cotton fabric woven with a bor-der of dark blue, yellow and greenstripes and red silk body, used in

East Africa.

Reinforced Hosiery Is knitted at the toeand heel in such a manner as to pre-vent unraveling of the fabric if thestitches wear out.

Rembrandt Rib 'Women's hosiery madewith lengthwise rows of five dropstitches alternating with inch-widestrips of plain knitting.

Remeta Strong, white bast fiber, yieldedby the Lasiosiphon eriocephalus inIndia.

Renaissance Cloth Term used in Franceto denote cloth made of shoddy.

Renaissance Lace Modern lace, the pat-tern being formed of very open tapewith one kind of filling and bars.

Renforce Strong, stout French sail cloth.

Rengue Fine cloth made of pineapplefibre In the Philippines.

To Renter To restore damaged tapestrythrough inserting new warp.

Rep Cotton, wool or silk fabric wovenwith heavier weft than warp, produc-ing ribbed effect.

Rep Stitch See Persian cross-stitch.

Repeat An entire, completed patternwhich is repeated over again in thefabric, embroidery or lace.

Repellent Stout, waterproofed woolencoating.

Reps 1, French drapery velvet made ofcotton and wool; obsolete; 2, AFrench silk fabric, having organzinewarp, the ribs are either warp orcross ribs.

Requet Bleached French linen used for

bedding, etc.

Rere Fine, white bast fibres of th*Cypholophus macrocephalus in thePacific Islands; used for clothingmats by the natives.

Rereal 'Certain Chinese silks which are

given a second reeling after the first

one performed by unskilled nativeworkers.

Reseau See Net.

Reseau Rosace Ground of the Argentanlace (see).

Reserve Dye Same as resist dyeing.

Resist Dyeing The principle of this pro-cess of dyeing follows: The fabricIs first printed with some chemicalwhich will resist to the subsequentlyapplied dye on the places where it

was applied.

Reticella or Greek Point An early formof lace, showing cut and .drawn workwith button-holed edges connectedwith brides.

Retting Process to separate the linenfibres from the woody parts in theflax straw. It is done by steepingin water or by exposing the straw to

dew.

REV132 ROA

Reveche Plain woven, soft French woolcloth of English origin, having a longnap, often curled, on one side. Latermade in twilled or serge weave witha soft, spongy, fulled body.

Revennes Strong stout sail cloth inFrance.

Reverse 1, coarse, loosely woven Frenchwoolen with napped face, similar toflannel; used for cheap clothing- 2the back of the cloth.

Reversed Twill Twill weaves with thewarp thread predominating on theface. Used in cotton and linen goods.

Reverses (Medieval English worsted fab-ric.

Reversible Double faced fabrics.

Reversible Damask See damask.Reversible Imperial or Reversible SatinA stout cotton fabric woven in 8-

leaf satin weave, containing manypicks in an inch, the weft formingthe face on both sides. It is usuallynapped on one side.

Rex- Finished Cotton velvet finished bydissolving and precipitating upon ita portion of its own cellulose, clos-ing the ends of the fibres, used forburnishing cloth.

Rhadames Stout and lustrous silk orcotton mixed dress goods, made withfine diagonal twill and dyed in solidcolors.

Rhadzimii See Radzimir.Rhea See Ramie.Rhodomelina A medieval silk fabric, half

and half dyed pink and yellow.Riabaul East Indian narrow and coarse

cotton fabric.

Rib A usually straight raised cord intextiles, formed by threads which areheavier than the others either in thewarp or in weft, formed also bygrouping several warps through thesame reed or passing more than onellmg through the same shed.

Riband Obsolete for ribbon.Ribbed Knitting Knitted fabrics, made

with the loops of each row lying al-ternately to the face and back of thefabric, forming ribs.

Ribbon A narrow fabric, made mostly ofcotton, wool, silk or artificial silk ina very great variety of weaves. Themain difference between ribbons andthe narrowest dress fabrics is thatthe former are used only for trim-ming and not as material for the gar-ment. As to width ribbons are meas-ured by the line, one-eleventh partof an inch, which is the standard, al-though in Europe some of the housesadapt various actual width for theline. In England the old Coventrymethod of measuring width of rib-bon, taking the thickness of the oldEnglish penny as basis, is still invogue for sarcenet ribbons. Thelength of a piece of ribbon in thetrade is often 10 yards, in Englandusually 36 yards and for velvet rib-bons, 18 yards.

Ribstillos Silk and velvet ribbons on theWestern coast of South America.

Rice Braid A braid consisting of a coreyarn having alternately thick and thinplaces, entirely covered with a fineyarn wound around. It comes usual-ly in white, but also in color and ismostly of cotton; used for trimmingand fancy work.

Rice Cloth A plain woven cotton fabricmade with hard spun warp and a finenovelty yarn, the latter having heav-ier places at close intervals. Thecloth is somewhat similar to a fineratine and comes in solid color andin printed effect.

Rice Stitch Same as point de riz.

Richardson Commercial variety ofAmerican cotton, same as Jones LongStaple.

Richelieu Ribbed women's hosiery, madewith lengthwise rows of single dropstitch alternating with strips of plainknitting three-quarter inch wide.

Richelieu Embroidery White embroiderymade with padded outlines in imita-tion of the Venise laces.

Richelieu Guipure 'Cutwork with openpatterns buttonholed along the edgeand joined with bars.

Rickrack Flat braid made in zig-zagform.

Ricotti Waste silk obtained from the in-ner smooth skin of the cocoon afterreeling.

Ride Cords Very strong English twilledtrousering having warp ribs.

R| 9 To fold wide pieces of finished clothin the center and to wind them up.

Rigby An English waterproofing pro-cess, usually applied to woolens.

Right Hand Twist Yarn twisted to theright hand.

Rikmah In the Bible denotes needle-work, the pattern being appliqued tothe ground.

Rimo A fine, silky white cotton, grownin the valley of Senegal.

Rinzu Silk satin in Japan.Rio Grande 1, Brazilian cotton having a

harsh, white staple; 2, commercialvariety of upland cotton, the staplemeasuring 18-22 millimeters- theyield is 34-36 per cent.

Rio de Janeiro Variety of raw cot-ton from Brazil.

Ripon Lace Coarse English bobbin lace,now obsolete.

Ripple Cloth Another name for zibeline.Riqueza Herbaceous cotton from Brazil

giving rich yield.

Risty or R iffy Variety of raw cottonfrom the Levant.

Rivers General trade name for raw cot-ton with a good body, measuring from1 1-16 to 1% inches, and grown alongthe Mississippi and Arkansas rivers.

Rizee Linen fabric made in Asia Minor,used for veils, shirts, etc.

Roannes Made of cotton and linen inFrance; used for bedding.

ROB 133 ROU

Rob Roy A Highland tartan adapted andworn by Rob Roy. It is composed of

alternate red and black stripes of

equal width.

Robbings Wool of greater length thannoil, removed during the combingprocess.

Robertson A Highland tartan, composedas follows: * dark blue stripe; nar-row red line; dark green stripe, aswide as the blue *

; red field, threetimes wider than the green stripe,

split near each edge by a narrowblue stripe (spaced from the edge its

own width), and also split in the

center by a pair of fine, green lines;

repeat, in reversed order, stripesmentioned above between two '.

Robes 64 square twilled cotton fabric,

printed in bright colored patterns,and left unfinished; used for wrap-pers,, kimonos, robes, etc., now mostlyfor drapery purposes.

Rochelles 'French linen used for bedding,shirts, etc.

Rococo Embroidery Applique needleworkhaving plain patterns buttonholedwith bright colored floss silk overecru linen or satin, the foundation is

then cut away.Rococo Lace 18th century bobbin lace

made flat in rococo style.

Rod Smith Now obsolete long stapledcommercial variety of upland cottonfrom Mississippi.

Rodinum A medieval, pink colored silk

fabric.

Rodondos iBleached linen in SouthAmerica.

Roe 'Early maturing commercial varietyof upland cotton from Louisiana, thestaple measuring 25-30 millimeters;the yield is 28-30 per cent.

Rogue's Yarn A colored strand of wors-ted twisted in the rope manufacturedfor the use of the British .navy.

Rohun Strong, reddish fibre, yielded bythe bastard cedar in India; used for

ropes.

Roll 1, bleached English linen of mediumquality; 2, sort of obsolete Englishmelton.

Roll and Chain (or Rolland Chaine)Fine twilled English woolen havingwarp ribs; obsolete.

Rollette Very fine linen, sort of heavy ba-tiste, made in Holland and Belgium.

Remain Closely woven, six-leaf, Frenchsatin lining or dress goods, made withsingle warp.

Romal East Indian plain silk taffeta.

Romal Handkerchief 'Linen or cotton In

blue plaid patterns.Roman Carpet Woven, double faced car-

pet, made with weft figures; wovenusually in squares. See also Scotchcarpet.

Roman Embroidery The conventionalpatterns are buttonholed with silk to

match the ecru foundation. The restis cut away and the different partsof the pattern are joined with plainbars.

Roman Stripes Bright and contrastingcolored stripes on fabrics, mostly silk.

Rombowline iln nautics condemned can-vas or rope.

Rondelette 1, inferior French cloth madeof waste silk; 2, sort of French linenfabric.

Rone Variety of stitches in quipure lace,made like wheels and spider stitch.

Roofing Felt Made of coarse animal hair,wool or asbestos often saturated withtar; used for roofing.

Rope Made of cotton, hemp, flax, jute,etc., measuring from one-third inchto four inches in diameter. Thestrands are twisted in a diffefent di-rection from that of the originalyarns. See also shroud rope, hawser,cable.

Rope Silk Slack twist, thick silk yarn,used for embroidery.

Rope Stitch In embroidery short andslanting stitches placed in such amanner to imitate the twist of a rope.

Rose A Highland tartan, composed asfollows: Black stripe; dark bluestripe of same width; narrow redstripe; dark blue stripe, as above;black stripe, as above; green stripe,as above; group (narrower than greenstripe), consisting of a black stripeedged with narrow white stripes;green stripe, as above.

Rose Point See point de rose.

Roseberry A stout but light waterproofmercerized cotton fabric, having weftstripes; used for coats.

Rosecran Obsolete, figured French linen.

Roses Obsolete lightweight and narrowFrench fabrics, made of wool, silkand linen, with small woven rose pat-terns.

Rosetta An 18th century woolen fabricin England.

Rosette Fine, bleached and figuredFrench linen; obsolete.

Ross A Highland tartan, composed asfollows: Wide red stripe, split bytwo groups of narrow blue lines (eachgroup consisting of three lines, ofwhich the center ones are heavier) ;

* dark green stripe, measuring seven-tenth-s of the width of the wide redstripe, and divided into three evenparts by two narrow red lines; redstripe (being three-fifths of the first

red stripe), split in the center by apair of green lines *

; dark bluestripe, the width and split being sameas of the green stripe; repeat, in re-versed order, the group mentionedabove between the two *.

Rostano Silk fabric, interwoven withgold or silver threads, made in Spain.

Rouane Bleached household linen inFrance.

Rouenneries French trade term, original-ly applied to cottons, dyed in the yarn,later to all printed cottons, and lin-

ens.

Rouge In Austria and Germany a plainwoven cotton fabric, made of fine

yarn; used for trimming.

ROD 134 RUS

Rough Peruvian Cotton, having veryclean, moderately strong but harshand wiry staple of a light cream color.

Round Twill It is based on the satinweave, forming round diagonal ribs.

Rouzet or Roustet Coarse strong Frenchwoolen used for cheap clothing.

Roving A slishtly twisted, soft and thickrope, more drawn out and twistedthan the stubbing.

Rowdy 'Flaw in cloth, consisting ofstreaks.

Royal Armure A narrow, stout silk dressfabric, woven with a pebbled face.

Royal Axminster A carpet having atufted cut pile, formed by the loom.

Royal Cashmere Fine English summerdress goods of wool warp and worstedfilling.

Royal Rib 'Same as cardigan.

Royale Silk dress goods, similar to grosde Tours, made with two harnesses,four warp ends in each heddle.

Royalette In England a stout fabricmade with cotton warp and Botanyfilling, woven in five-leaf weft satinweave.

Roybon Sort of French casimir.

Rozelle Hemp 'Strong silky bast fibre,yielded by the Hibiscus sabdariffa in

India; ueed for ropes, etc.

Ruanas Cotton ponchos in Columbia,made in plain weave, usually nar-row woven stripes placed three-quar-ter inch apart.

Rubanet English woolen and worstedvesting; obsolete.

Rubber Cloth Cotton fabric, rubberizedon one side, used for raincoats in thelighter weights and suit eases and car-riage trimmings in the coarser grades.

Rubber Velvet Consists of a rubberizedcloth ground over which colored flockis blown while the rubber is still soft,giving it a soft, velvety face. Usedfor raincoats.

Rubberized Silk or cotton fabrics water-proofed by rubber on one side.

Rug 1, thick and heavy floor coveringmade of cotton, wool, silk or jute,made with or without any pile, byhand or on the loom; also a twilledand figured blanket used for travel-ing; 2, coarse woolen fabric worn bythe poorer classes in England duringthe 16th century.

Rug Back Double shed back, given tocarpets and rugs to increase theirwearing quality.

Rugby In England a stout, colored cot-ton shirting.

Rugging In England a stout, coarsewoolen fabric, finished with a thicknap on the face; used for floor cover-ing.

Rugginose Waste silk, obtained fromstained or imperfect cocoons.

Rum Cotton Trade name for cottongrown in the Danish West Indies.

Rumburg Linen A Fine Austrian linen,the fineness and number of yarns inthe warp and weft are alike.

Rumchundei Various East Indian silkdress goods in white and cream withdots for patterns.

Rumswizzel Frieze coating made of nat-ural wool in Ireland.

Run The unit in the American systemof woolen yarn count, meaning 1,600yards of yarn in a hank, the number ofhanks giving the yarn count.

Run Lace English, 18th century lace ofbobbin-made net foundation with pat-terns embroidered upon it with theneedle.

Run Work A needlework, consisting inrunning white or colored threadthrough the meshes of a net to forma design.

Russaline 18th century woolen fabric inEnsland.

Russell In the 19th century a stoutworsted in England, woven withdouble warp and single filling in afive-end twill; used for women'sboots, shoes, petticoats and men'svests.

Russel Cord Union fabric made withcotton warp and worsted filling, twowarp ends being run through eachdent, forming cords.

Russet 1, a gray or reddish brown coarseEnglish homespun under King Johnand later; 2, an 18th century pureworsted fabric in England.

Russia Braid Made of silk or mohair forembroidery purposes.

Russia Crash Coarse, strong, plain wo-ven unbleached cloth made of hempor coarse linen yarn. Used for tow-els, coats, etc.

Russia Rope Commercial name for un-tarred cables and cordage of hemp.

Russia Sail Duck Strong flax or hempsail cloth made in Russia.

Russian Blanket Very heavy blanketwith thick nap raised on both sides,made with wool warp and heavy mo-hair filling, usually in different col-ored stripes. Used for automobilerobes.

Russian Cord Consist of warp ends, heav-ier than the ground warp, crossed onthe wrong side by a leno at eachnick. The ground of the fabric is aplain woven sheer fabric, usually in acolor contrasting to the cord.

Russian Duck Fine bleached linen can-vas, used for summer clothing. Aheavier grade is used for sail cloth.

Russian Lace 'Coarse crochet lace of cot-ton or linen with simple patterns.

Russian Serge A very strong, thick all-wool serge for women's coats.

Russian Tricot A double crochet madewith ribs.

Russian Twill Trade name for fine, clearfaced twilled woolen dress goods,woven of right hand twist yarn anddyed in the piece.

RUS 135 SAL

Russian Veiling Cotton veiling madewith large meshes and square pat-terns woven between them.

Russienne Carded, French silk dress

goods; obsolete.

Rusty Silk Flaw in white or delicate col-

ored silk cloth showing fine brownishstreaks in the filling.

Sabattus Rug Modern American hand-made knotted rug made in Maine. It

is all-wool, the pile being tied in aspecial knot. The design is takenfrom Indian pottery in colors of vege-table indigo blue and green.

Sable French for mottled effect.

Sabrina Applique needlework, theleaves and petals of flowers made of

colored material edged with button-hole stitches.

Sacharilla Mull A very delicate bleachedcotton muslin, made of fine yarn witha low construction. It is given a verysoft finish. Used for veils and tur-bans by the Moslems.

Sacci An extensive variety of the sisal

hemp of Yucatan; has a long whitefibre.

Sack Cloth Very coarse cotton or jutefabric, woven plain, used for bags.

Sacking 1, heavy, three or four endtwill jute or hemp cloth of doublewarp and single filling, used for ce-ment and ore bags; 2, solid coloredflannels for kimonos.

Saddening Same as after treating.

Saddlecloth In Arizona and Mexicomasses of aloe fiber spread out in reg-ular thickness and tacked to keepthem in place. It is not woven.

Sad ha General term in Bengal for plaincotton cloth without any design in

the selvage.

Sadin In the Bible means linen cloth.

Sadowa Woolen dress goods with the napbeing raised in circles, dots, squares,etc,

Saffron A fugitive yellow dyestuff de-rived from the flowers of the crocus;used formerly to some extent.

Sagathee, Sagathis, Sagathy, SaggathyAn obsolete French and Englishwoolen, woven in four-leaf twill witha white warp and colored filling andgiven a high finish with the calen-dar.

Saging Philippine fibre used for cord-age.

Sahare^Cotton fabric with wide yellowand narrow white stripes and a bor-der of red, yellow and white stripes;used in East Africa for swordsheaths.

Saht Linen yarn in old Egypt.

Said Variety of raw cotton from Syria.

Saie tSame as Say.

Sailcloth Coarse, stout, very strong can-vas or duck, used for sails, etc.

Saint Andrew In embroidery a stitch

forming a St. Andrew cross in asquare.

Saint Georges Unbleached French lin-en of medium quality.

Saint Jago Cotton goods in Sierra Leone,Africa.

Saint Jean Coarse, unbleached Frenchlinen made in various widths.

Saint Lucie Very fine French silk yarn.

Saint Maur French serge made of puresilk or mixed with wool.

Saint Nicolas French woolen serge, usedby the army.

Saint Omer Narrow, 17th century Eng-lish worsted fabric.

Saint Rambert Unbleached French lin-en.

Saint Remy A grade of French organ-zine or raw silk.

Saint Vincent Variety of raw cottonfrom the West Indies.

Sakallerides Variety of Egyptian cotton.

Sal Ammoniac Used for dressing textiles.

Sal a Italian name for a sedge or rush,used for chair seats, brushes, etc.

Salago Coarse Philippine fibre used for

cordage.

Salamander's Wool Name for asbestos insome parts of England.

Salamine Silk armure dress goods ofblack warp and colored filling form-ing pin checks on the surface; obso-lete.

Salampore^East Indian blue cottoncloth of good quality; it is veryloosely woven and used for garmentsby the natives in India and Africa.

Salendang East Indian cotton goods wo-ven in colors.

Salisbury White Sort of white Englishwoolen flannel.

Salona Variety of raw cotton fromRoumelia.

Salonique Variety of raw cotton fromMacedonia.

Salt Colors Direct synthetic dyestuffscontaining table salt which increasesthe fastness of the color. They areused on cotton and linen at a lowtemperature but on animal fibers onlyat high temperature

Saltillo Woolen blankets made by thenatives of Northern Mexico, with alarge and richly ornamented medal-lion, consisting of various coloredconcentric bands. This medallion is

in the center of a ground coveredwith small all-over geometrical de-signs in vertical or diagonal rows.The leading colors of these blankets

SAL 136 SAT

are blue or red with smaller quanti-ties of green, yellow and black. Theweave is usually very fine; the sel-

vages are finished smoothly andwithout overcasting and the ends arefinished with fringes. These blanketsare used as ponchos or serapes.

Saluyot A Philippine fibre used for

cordageSamardine Plain French serge, made

with eight ends and four picks in

a repeat.

Samarkand Medium size rugs made in

Central Asia of wool, silk or cottonweb and loose cotton or silk pile,

tied in Senna knot. The design showsChinese influence with five or less

medallions, fret-work patterns andodd, stiff flowers. The colors are yel-lows, blues, reds, browns and white.

Sameron A linen sheeting of good qual-ity, used in England during the 16th

century.

Samis or Samit A medieval fabricmade with very heavy silk or hempwarp containing six threads and flat

gold filling (tinsel). Originally wasmade in Italy. It is believed by someto have been similar to velvet.

Samoa Hopi Indian name for the Yuccagrass, used for baskets, mats, etc.

Used for ropes, twines, saddle blank-ets by other Indian tribes.

Samuhu 1, good bast fibre, yielded by aspecies of the Chorisia tree in Ar-

gentine; used for cordage; 2, silky,flexible but short fibre, yielded by aspecies of the Bombaceae in Para-guay; used for ponchos, etc. TheIndians use the net-like bast forvarious purposes.

San Martha Variety of raw cotton from'Columbia.

San Martin Variety of raw cotton fromthe West Indies.

Sanat An inferior East Indian printedcotton cloth.

Sandal Striped taffeta in the Levanttrade.

Sangales Light and thin, bleached, rawor striped linen from Switzerland.

Sangati One of the finest grades ofplain Dacca muslins (see).

Sangi Cast Indian satin, made of tus-sah silk and cotton.

Sanglier Closely woven French fabricmade of hard twist worsted or mo-hair yarn.

Sanitary Wool Trade name for naturalwool.

Sanna Bleached or blue cotton clothfrom East India.

Santipur Very fine and thin East Indiancotton cloth, embroidered in flowers.

Santos Brazilian cotton, with a silky,white staple.

Sanyan Variety of wild silk from WestAfrica.

Sappy Wool containing a large percent-age of natural grease and subjecttherefore to excessive shrinkage.

Saraband 'Small and medium size Per-sian rugs made of cotton warp andweft and close and short wool pile,tied in Senna knot. The design con-sists almost without exception ofrows of pears and many narrow bord-ers in dark red, blue, etc.

Saracenic Tapestry 'Earliest medievalname for tapestry made on basselisse.

Sarakhs Rugs Heavy, all-wool Persianrugs, the long and close pile is tiedin Ghiordes knot. The design con-sists of medallion and floral figureschiefly in rich red and blue.

Sarandaz Trade term for certain Per-sian and Anatolian knotted wool rugsof various characters, which are usedby the head of the household.

Sarasses Variety of East Indian rawcotton.

Sarcenet 1, obsolete, light, soft and thinsilk fabric, used as lining in England;2, plain, thin silk ribbon.

Sarcilis Very coarse and cheap woolen,used by the poorer classes in Englandduring the 13th century. Called alsoSarciatus.

Sardasi 'East Indian velvet, embroideredwith gold or silver threads.

Sard is Obsolete French woolen suiting,made in plain weave.

Saree Coarse East Indian cotton clothwith colored heading.

Sargette See sergette.

Sargia Medieval Italian twilled fabric,made of wool and eilk.

Sargues 'French serge made of linen andcarded wool.

Sarnak Silk floss from Turkestan.

Sarong 'Woven colored cotton goodsused for garments in Arabia and In-dia.

Sarplar In England a bag of wool meas-uring 2,2,40 pounds.

Sarplier A coarse, strong, plain wovencotton fabric; used in England forbaling wool.

Sarpuz 'Trade term for Persian and Ana-tolian knotted wool carpets; used asfloor covering.

Sarraux 'French linen canvas, made withblue checks; used by sailors fortrousers.

Sarsenet iPlain, woven stout piece dyedEnglish cotton cloth finished withhigh gloss, often calendered to givethe appearance of a twill; used for

lining, etc.

Sarung 'Sleeping mat from the SolomonIslands, made of pandanus leaves.

Sash Ada Tari Arabic term for bleachedtanjibs (see) with a dark blue orlavender striped heading; used forhead covering by the natives In

Egypt.

Sash Marmar Aal Arabic name for flne

bleached mulls; used by the nativesin Egypt.

Satan in Obsolete French woolen fabric;used for drapery.

SAT 137 SAT

Satara 'Highly finished, ribbed woolenfabric, fulled and sheared.

Sateen Stout, lustrous piece dyed cottonfabric, made in satin weave (see)either in warp or filling flush. Alsocomes printed or in stripes; used for

lining dresses, skirts, shoe lining, etc.

Satellites 'Printed cotton goods in theAfrican market.

Sati-drap 'French dress goods, made ofcotton or silk warp and woolen fill-

ing of the same color, forming a weftsatin. It is fulled in the finish; ob-solete.

Satin A great variety of fabrics, orig-inally only of silk, now made alsoof wool, woven in satin weave, almostalways warp flush, lit is a verysmooth and glossy fabric, used fordresses, lining, trimming, ribbons, etc.The best grades are made of all silk,while the cheaper grades are cotton-back satins, the set of yarns, whichdoes not form the face, being of cot-ton. See also sateen and satinet.

Satins are made with taffeta ortwill back. In double faced satinsboth sides are made in satin weavewith two sets of warp and single setof filling. Satin fabrics are oftenornamented with dobby or Jacquardfigures in taffeta, faille, velvet, lameor other weaves and effects.

Satin d'Amerique 'Satin made of mixtureof silk and agave fiber.

Satin Back Velvets or taffeta and otherribbons made with a reverse sideof satin.

Satin Berber Stout worsted fabric, madein satin weave and finished with alustre.

Satin Bonjean French worsted trouser-ing, fulled in the finishing.

Satin de Bruges 'Upholstery satin of silkand wool.

Satin Check Highly finished English cot-ton fabric, woven in checks.

Satin de Chine 'Closely woven 10 endFrench silk satin, made with eingleor ply warp either in mixture of wooland silk, or pure wool or cotton warpand woolen filling; obsolete.

Satin de Chypre Obsolete French silksatin.

Satin Cloth A lightweight woolen dressgoods, made in satin weave and lus-tred.

Satin Damask 1, the best grade, lustrouslinen damask, used for table linen;2, rich silk satin with fancy Jac-quard designs woven either in fancyweaves or in pile.

Satin Delhi iFine worsted satin.

Satin Duchesse Fine, stout and very lus-trous silk satin, woven in eight-endsatin weave.

Satin Ermine 40-end French silk satinribbon, made with two sets of warp,one eet forming a taffeta back, theother the satin surface, similar tothe fur or the plush.

Satin Figaro Eight-end silk satin dressgoods or millinery trimming, the warpbeing of alternately different coloredthreads.

Satin Finish 'High gloss given to cotton,wool or silk fabrics by calendering.

Satin Foulard 'Smooth and highly fin-ished silk foulard.

Satin Grec 'Solid colored silk satin lin-

ing or dress goods made with singlewarp and high finish.

Satin Jean A stout, heavy cotton jean,made with a highly finished, finelytwilled face.

Satin de Laine 1, French twilled dra-pery, made of English worsted, insolid colors, printed or brocaded; '2,

French dress goods and cloakingmade in various colored brocaded pat-terns in satin weave.

Satin Lisse Twilled, highly finished cot-ton dress goods in France, printedwith small designs.

Satin Luxor (Rich, stout silk satin dressfabric, made with a corded face.

Satin de Lyon Silk satin made with atwilled back, and finely striped face;used for lining.

Satin Marabou Thin, silk satin madewith single marabou yarn (see) for

warp.Satin Merveilleux A very soft silk dresa

fabric, woven in a seven-end eatinweave and given a very high finish.

Satin National Six or eight-end Frenchsilk satin dress goods.

Satin Onde Five or eight-end silk satin,made with single warp; used as dressgoods or millinery-

Satin Quilt Bleached or colored cottonquilt, made with fine warp and 'filling,

woven plain, a second, coarse filling

forming raised patterns.

Satin Regence Stout, rich silk satin dressfabric, made with 'fine runs weftwise.

'Satin a la Reine Closely woven six-endsilk satin.

Satin Rhadames 'Fine silk satin dressfabric, made with fine diagonal lines

running across the face.

Satin Royal Double faced, silk satin withtwilled stripes crossing the material.

Satin Sheeting English cotton back thick

satin, made of waste silk; used for

dresses, etc.

Satin Stitch Used in embroidery, called

also long and slanting gobelin stitch;

a gobelin stitch made slanting.

Satin Striped Various materials, havingstripes in satin weave.

Satin Stripes^English satin made of cot-ton warp with broad silk stripes andmohair filling.

Satin Sultan French dress goods andcloaking, also a lustrous East In-dian silk fabric.

Satin Surah Twilled, very soft surah,finished with great lustre.

Satin Tick Very stout, cotton fabric,made in satin weave; used for up-holstery.

SAT 138 SCI

Satin Turc 1, four-end satin in France,made with single warp. It is given a

high finish and is used for shoe tops;

2, French fabric made of wool andsilk warp and wool filling in seven-end satin weave; used for shoe tops,

trousers, etc.; similar to lasting.

Satin Vigoureux Dress fabric having asatin face or satin stripes, the warpyarns being printed according to the

vigoureux process (see), giving amottled color effect.

Satin Weave One of the principalweaves in which either the warp or

the filling completely covers the face

and is interwoven with the other set

of yarn in an irregular way, usually

crossing only one thread at a time,without having two threads runningconsecutively in the weave in orderto avoid the common twilled effect.

The set of threads forming the faceis placed very close while the otherset is run in at greater intervals. In

constructing satin weave the num-ber of harnesses of the original twill

on which it can be woven is dividedin two parts, the rule being that thesecannot be equal nor multiple of eachother, nor can both be divisible bythe same number.

Satin Zephyr French dress goods, madeof cotton warp and woolen filling,

with a weft plush satin weave, fulledin the finish.

Satinade 1, obsolete French and Italian

tapestry, having waste silk warpand silk filling, dyed in different col-

ors and forming stripe patterns; 2,

ttiin and light French dress goods,having warp satin stripes over taf-

feta foundation, the warp is of silk,

the filling of wool or linen.

Satine Cotton satin, see sateen.

Satinet 1, an American fabric made ofcotton warp and all new wool fill-

ing, covering the face in satin weaveand fulled; used for working clothes;2, in England a stout cotton satinwith napped and shorn face andnapped back.

Satinette Thin silk satin in England andFrance.

Satinisco- Inferior grade of satin; usedfor lining.

Satranji Thick, very durable and wash-able woven cotton carpet from In-

dia, made in large size.

Sattannet 18th century pure worstedEnglish fabric.

Saulganshi East Indian calico.

Sauvagagi East Indian gray or bleachedcotton cloth.

Savage 'Bleached, stout woven and hardfinished cotton shirting in Venezuela,used for collars and cuffs.

Savalan Rugs See Sultanabad.

Saved List Cloth Coarse English woolenfor the East Indian market, dyed inthe piece, having -white selvage, whichis covered by a Btrip of fabric beforedyeing to keep the color out.

Savonnerie 'French-make rug made in

imitation of Oriental knotted rugs in

rococo patterns.

Sawn^Cotton cloth from East India.

Saxon Camblet First name given in Eng-land to 'Saxonies, worsted fabrics;obsolete.

Saxonienne French silk armure dress

good of small patterns, having the

warp in various colors; obsolete.

Saxony 1, the finest class of wool, hav-ing a short, very fine but strong andelastic staple, with excellent felting

properties owing to the large num-ber of serrations; used for the best

grades of fulled fabrics; 2, a wors-ted fabric, originated in Englandduring the 19th century, made with a

warp of half-bred, English and Botanywool and the filling of Saxony orSouth-Down wool; 3, same as merinoin Scotland; 4, means a white flan-

nelette in Canada.

Saxony Brussels Curtains, having a net

ground, with patterns formed by lay-ing another thickness of mesh, tam-bouring the outline of the design byhand and cutting away the loose,outer parts.

Saxony Flannel Fine flannel, made of

Saxony wool in England.

Saxony Point Fine lace similar to theold Brussels.

Say, Saye An all-worsted, four-harnessserge of black color, made in Eng-land since the middle ages until the19th century; it was used for lin-

ings and shirts by certain religiousorders and for aprons by the Quak-ers. It was usually made of Hol-land, English or Spanish wool.

Say Cast Coarse wool taken from thetail part of the fleece.

Sayette^-General name in France for

various twilled or plain woven goodsmixed with little silk. Used for lin-

ing and furniture cover.

Sayette Yarn Slack twist wool yarn,made of pure Holland wool (the best

grade), or mixed with other wools.Used for fine dress goods, knit goods,etc.

Sayetterie French term denoting wool-ens containing some silk yarn.

Schappe See shappe.Schiffli Embroidery 'Shuttle embroidery,

the machine being run by a motor in-

stead of by hand. The movement of

the carriages is caused by motor pow-er and the pantograph is operated byhand. The cross stitches are visible onboth sides of the goods and the workshows the bobbin threads on the backof the embroidery.

Schreinering Finishing process for mer-cerized cottons, consisting of pass-ing the cloth between two weightedrollers, one being smooth, while theother has very fine, closely engravedlines. It produces a high gloss.

Scinde The poorest variety of East In-dian raw cottons, having a short,fairly clean and very strong stapleof dull white color.

SCO 139 SEL

Scotch Cambric Fine otton dress goodsfinished with size but not lustred.

Scotch Carpets Pile carpets, similar tothe Kidderminster, with design onboth sides but in different colors.

Scotch Checks White muslin with plaidchecks in colored cord. Used fordresses, etc.

Scotch Fingering Soft twist woolen yarnfor knitting.

Scotch Finish Heavy woolens, finishedwith a losely shorn nap.

Scotch Gingham Trade name for thefinest grades of ginghams.

Scotch Plaid Coarse, very durable twill-ed woolen fabric, made of native woolin 'Scotland in various tartan pat-terns.

Scotch Rug A rag rug, made with acoarse two-ply cotton warp and longand narrow strips of wool rags.

Scotch Tweed Originally an all-wooltweed (see), spun and woven inScotland.

Scots Soft English dress goods made ofhard twist worsted yarn in sergeweave.

Scott A Highland tartan, composed asfollows: Wide red field, split in thecenter by a narrow green stripe witha fine black line near each edge ofthe green; green stripe (measuringhalf the width of the distance be-tween the edge of red field and thenearest black line) ; group (as wide asgreen stripe), composed of three redand two green stripes, the latter be-ing wider and split in the center bya fine white line; green stripe, asabove.

Scour 1, process of cleaning the wool ofall grease and other impurities; 2,washing- the cloth to remove oilsoap, etc.

Scoured Wool Is absolutely clean fromany foreign matter.

Scrim Loosely woven light weight open-face cotton cloth made of two-plyyarn, usually in colored stripe orplaid patterns in gauze weave. Usedfor curtains, drapery, etc.

Scroop The rustling sound peculiar tothe silk when rubbed between thefingers. It is produced by treatingthe degummed silk in an acid or limebath; it is imparted to mercerizedhosiery by using various organicacids with a soap bath.

Scutching Tow Is the by-product of thescutching of flax straw, often beingrescutched; it is classified in Ire-land as coarse, fine and rescutched;used for ropes.

Sea Island 'See cotton.

Sea Silk Term applied to the strong lus-trous fibres yielded by certain algae.

Sea Weed Fibres yielded by species ofalgae; used for cordage, fishing lanesetc.

Seal Plush Silk plush cloaking imitatingreal sealskin, the dyeing material is

tipped on the ends of the pile, whichhas to be straight and slanting in onlyone direction.

Sealette Name in England for plushwoven in imitation of seal.

Sealskin Plush made with tussah silkpile, the cheaper grades also of cowhair; dyed in the piece in black toimitate real s. ; used for coats.

Seaming The operation by which partsof the knitted goods are joined to-gether.

Seaming Lace Old term for lace usedas entredeux (see).

Seamless Hose Made on the circularknitting machine without any seamand in one width throughout thewhole piece. It is shaped on dryingboards.

Seating 'English hair cloth in satinweave for furniture seats; little inuse.

Sebastopol Fine twilled woolen dressgoods with very fine, different colorednarrow runs visible only when thefabric is draped.

Seconds 1, best merino clothing woolfrom the edge of the throat andbreast; 2, coarse wool taken fromthe skirt of the merino fleece; 3, fab-rics with a flaw.

Second Combing Wool taken from theback, across the loins to the neckof the fleece.

Sedjadeh Turkish name for mediumsized Oriental carpets.

Seed Cotton Picked bolls, fibres andseeds not yet separated.

Seeded Small dots strewn over the faceof the fabric; same as powdering.

Seedy 'Wool, containing seed.

Seerhand Variety of soft cotton dressmuslins in India,

Seerhandconat Various East Indian cot-ton muslins.

Seersucker A lightweight wash fabricmade of silk or cotton in plain weaveshowing crinkled warp stripes. Thiseffect is produced by dressing thatpart of the warp very slack. Origin-ally an imported fabric from India.Used for dresses, office coats, etc.

Seersucker Gingham -Cotton ginghammade with colored or crinkled stripes.

Segovie Very fine French serge, madeof Spanish wool with a nap on theface.

Segovienne English cloth of fine Span-ish wool.

Seizain Obsolete, very wide, fulledFrench woolen dress goods of med-ium grade, having 1,<600 warp ends.

Self-Figured or Striped In solid coloredfabrics, patterns formed by a weavedifferent from the ground.

SEL 140 SET

Selvage, Selvedge The edge of wovenfabrics, consisting either of one ormore stronger cords or a narrowborder, usually of a different weavefrom the body, serves to strengthenthe fabric and to prevent warpthreads from fraying. The selvageis called fast when it is enclosed byall or part of the picks and not fast

when the filling threads are cut off

at the edge of the fabrics after everypick; the selvage of such fabrics,

usually split goods, consists either of

leno or in the cheapest grades thefabric is simply sized along the

edges to prevent fraying. Also called

list.

Selvagee In nautics a skein of rope withanother rope wound around it; usedfor hoisting.

Selvyt An unfinished velvet, made ofharsh cotton, used for polishing cloth.

Semal Cotton Silky fibre yielded by theIndian bombax malabaricum. It is

straight and flattened and used for

stuffing.

Seme French for powderings or smallpatterns over the ground of the cloth,

lace, etc.

Semienyoung 'Black colored Chinese vel-

vet with cotton filling.

Sempiterne English all-wool serge, no-ted for its durability.

Sengfangtchen Chinese silk taffeta, whiteor ecru, with a 'finish; about 20 incheswide. The texture is very 'fine andregular. Used for drapery, paint-ing, etc.

Senna Knot One of the two kinds ofknots found in hand-made Oriental

pile carpets. A complete loop Is

formed by the yarn, thus having apile extending from every space be-tween the warp threads, thus mak-ing more knots and a denser andevener pile than the Ghiordes knot.

Senna Rugs 'Very fine Persian rugs madein small sizes, usually with cottonweb and very close and shortwool pile tied in Senna knots. Thedesign consists usually of small pat-terns covering the entire field or ofa lozenge center medallion. White,red and blue are used the oftenest.

Very fine khilims (see) are also madein the same design and coloring.

Sennit 1, braid containing odd numberof strands; also straw braid for hats;

2, in nautics, a braid formed by plait-

ing strands of ropes together.

Sequin Lace Crochet lace made of col-ored yarn and colored braid for thedesign.

Seragunge Grade of Indian jute, pro-duced in the Patna and Mymensinghdistricts.

Serapes Colored woolen blankets in

Mexico.

Seraphin (or Serafin) English woolenprinted with flowers on whiteground; obsolete.

Serapi Rugs Large, nearly square Per-sian rugs of cotton web and short,close pile tied in Ghiordes knot. Thedesign consists usually of a creamcenter medallion, floral patterns andinscriptions.

Serbattes Fine East Indian muslin withgold selvage.

Serge 1, a large variety of soft andsomewhat loose woolen, worsted andsilk fabric with a clear finish wovenin a 2 and 2, even-sided twill, pro-ducing a flat, diagonal rib effect. Itwas made since the 12th century.The best grades, made of worstedwarp and woolen filling or all-wors-ted are used for suits, dresses andcoats. Silk serge is used for women'sdresses and coats in the heaviergrades while the lighter weights arefor lining and umbrella cover; 2, agrade of shoddy, obtained from sergecloth, braids, etc.; 3, name for the two-and-two twill.

Serge d'Aumale 1, XVIII century Frenchserge, the warp made of slack twistwoolen yarn and the filling of hardertwisted single wool yarn; 2, narrowand light French serge, used for lin-ing.

Serge de Berry In the 19th century aworsted in England, similar to last-ing but heavier and woven with sevenharnesses.

Serge de Blicourt 18th century Frenchwool serge made of slack twist warpand harder twisted single filling.

Serge de Boys 17th century Englishworsted.

Serge Cloth English woolen serge ofsmooth face and napped back.

Serge DenimAn 18th century pure wors-ted fabric in England. Believed tobe same as serge de Nismes.

Serge de Rome Piece dyed mostly blackfine French serge, made of two-plywarp and very slack twist filling with'8-ends and four picks in a repeat.Made with or without double face.Also made of eilk.

Sergette^l, light and narrow Frenchserge of white or gray color made20 or 24 inches wide; obsolete; 2,

narrow French droguet, made in

pieces 24 inches wide and about 46

yards long; obsolete.

Serioin The natural gummy substance onthe silk fiber, removed by boiling off.

Serpentine TwillA twill weave made in

wavy ridges.

Serpilliere The coarsest grade of un-bleached, loosely woven French can-vas, made of hemp tow; used for bag-ging.

Sertao Good grade, long etaple inlandraw cotton from Peruambuco, Brazil.

Set The number of threads found in the

fabric within an inch width. In Brad-ford the number showing how often

a beer (40 threads) is found within awidth of 36 inches.

SET 141 SHE

Set Checks Large checks of the samecolors are set at certain distance,forming the characteristic feature ofthe fabric, witht other colors between.

Setangula Variety of Egyptian raw cot-ton.

Sevllla Variety of raw cotton from Spain.

Sewing CottonHard spun cotton thread,consisting of three or six strands. Inthe Paisley system of numbering sew-ing cotton, the single card is twiceas fine as its number in a six-cordthread, while in a three-cord threadthe number indicates the size of the

single strand.

Sewing Silk illade of from three to 24

reeled cocoon filaments, twisted to-

gether slack in groups of left handtwist and twisted in the reverse di-

rection under tension.

Seydavi >Raw silk from the Levant.

Seyong Blue or black Chinese velvet.

Shaatnez In the Bible fabric made of

wool and linen.

Shabnam 'Indian name of a plain, nextto the finest grade of Dacca mus-lin.

Shacapa Strong leaf fiber yielded by apalm in Peru; used for ropes.

Shade Cloth 'Plain woven cotton clothof various widths and qualities,

usually in white or green, sized andgiven a smooth, glossy finish; usedfor shades and blinds.

Shaded Twills Twill weaves made in di-

agonals with increasing or decreasingfloats. They are called single or doubleshaded, according to the diagonals be-

ing shaded in one or two directions

Shadow Check Patterns produced on va-rious, always solid colore dgoods bj

using right hand twist and left handtwist yarns both for the warp andthe filling; stripe patterns are pro-duced by using these two yarns onlyin the warp or in the filling.

Shadow Lace Very light machine-madelaces, having a mesh ground andshadow like patterns in closer mesh.

Shadow Silk Same as Changeable (see).

Shafty Long, strong and densely grownwool.

Shag 1, originally a stout, hairy cloth

made of coarse wool in the OrkneyIslands; 2, coarse, long nap on someof the woolen coatings.

Shagreen 'Strong cotton fabric, heavilysized and finished to resemble leath-

er; used for bookbinding.

Shagrine Obsolete lining silk.

Shairl Fine fabric made of the hair of

the cashmere goat.

Shaker Flannel 'Soft, well napped whiteflannel, woolen with cotton warp andwoolen filling; used for underwear.

Shalloon il, an 18th century all-worstedfabric in England and France, madewith single warp and twilled; 2, in

the 19th century a worsted in Eng-land, twilled on both sides, woven withsingle warp and weft in four-leaf

twill; used for women's dresses.

Shalloon Twill An even sided, four-har-ness twill weave, each thread passingalternately over and under twothreads.

Sham Plush Made by raising a long napfrom a twilled fabric, to imitate pile,or by using chenille filling.

Shamrock Lawn Lightweight union fab-ric composed of cotton and linen.

Shanghai Dresses Plain or moire fabricsmade in England, in the 19th cen-tury, of silk warp and ramie filling;exported to China.

Shanking Very coarse and short merinoclothing wool taken from the legs.

Shantung A soft but heavy silk, wovenof pongee silk of natural color.

Snap-faced In England cotton back vel-vet made of waste silk.

Shappe 'Spun silk in Europe, which is

partly degummed by fermentation.

Sharak 'Arabic term for gray, bleachedor dyed doriahs (see) used for outergarments by the natives in Egypt;originally it was made on hand looms.

Sharbati East Indian name for a veryfine grade of plain Dacca muslin (see).

Shark Skin A glossy waterproof cloth,used for raincoats.

Shash 1, in the Bible means cotton; 2,

a fine cotton muslin in Arabia; 3,native East African name for a verythin, bleached cotton muslin.

Shaub Indian close woven fabric madeof mixture of cotton and silk.

Shawl Originated in Cashmere, where it

was made of pashmina. Some of thebest grades are still being made inIndia on hand looms, the patterns arebeing embroidered into the ground.The best French shawls and the Pais-ley shawls, made in imitation of theseOriental fabrics, are woven on powerlooms but the pattern is only on oneside of the shawl. Other shawls arecrocheted or knitted by hand or bythe machine.

Shawl Wool Trade name for a very fine

wool, yielded by the goats in Thibet;used for shawls; also called pash-mina.

Shayak Felted woolen fabric of coarsemake; used in Turkey.

Shearling Short pulled wool (see), ob-tained a few months after shearing.

Sheborga Jamdani The finest grade ofthe Jamdani (see), having simple dotsfor patterns.

Sheer Thin, fine fabrics.

Sheeting 1, plain woven, light cottonfabric, made with single yarns in the

gray or bleached, but never colored,usually yard wide; 2, name for thetwo-and-two twill.

Shemakinski The coarsest grade of Sou-mak rugs.

Shepherd Checks Woolen or worsteddress goods or suiting, having blackor other dark colored solid checksover a light foundation. The checksare formed by evenly spaced warpand weft stripes of equal width.

SHE 142 SIA

Shepherd's Plaid Twilled woolen fabric,made with black and white checks,formed by long and cross bars in

black over white ground.Sherborne Lace English blonde and

black blonde bobbin lace; now obso-lete.

Shersh Turkish name for cotton tanjibs(see) ; used for headdress by the na-tives.

Shesh In the Bible denotes fine linen

fabric.

Shetland Coarse and heavy woolen over-

coating with a very long, shaggy nap.

Shetland Lace Bobbin lace made of blackor white Shetland wool yarn.

Shetland Point Needle-point lace madeof Shetland wool in Italy.

Shetland Shawl 'Fine knitted or crochetedlight shawl made of Shetland wool.

Shetland Veils or FallsShawls, looselyknitted of wool, often containing cam-el, goat or alpaca hair, and madewith scalloped edge.

Shetland Wool 1, very fine and lustrouswool, yielded by the Shetland sheep.The real Sh. wool is an undergrowth,found under the longer hairy wooland is not shorn but roo'd (or

pulled by hand) in the spring. It

comes in white, gray or brown, andis one of the costliest wools known.The wool is scoured and spun byhand, then treated with the fumes of

sulphur and made up into hosiery,underwear, crochet work and veryfine shawls; 2, English two-strandfine knitting yarn.

Shibori 'Rich, colored Japanese silk withelaborate patterns; used for uphol-stery.

Shichitoi Japanese mat rush o* rougherquality.

Shine Early Commercial variety of earlymaturing upland cotton, having ashort staple; the yield is about 34

per cent.

Shiraz (Persian, all-wool rugs made in all

sizes. The medium long pile is tiedin Ghiordes knot. The end selvage is

often checked. The design consistsof palm patterns, stripes with blueand red as prominent colors. Alsocalled Mecca ruge.

Shirey Yarn 'Flax yarn with a flawcaused by improper setting of thereach.

Shirred Fabrics Fabrics having rubberthreads interwoven, as suspenderwebbings, etc.

Shirting A great variety of white, print-ed or colored woven cotton, linen orsilk fabrics; used for shirts.

Shirvan Rugs 'All-wool rugs made in

Caucasia. The warp and weft beingof white, gray or dyed wool; theloose pile is tied in Ghiordes knot.The patterns are geometrical in blue,

White, yellow and red colors. Theends are finished in long, knotted

fringe.

Shiti iNative East African name for cali-

coes with small flowers; used for

dresses.

Shives All vegetable matter, exceptburrs, found entangled in the wool.

Shoddy 1, wool obtained from unfeltedcloth rags and knit goods by tearingthem apart; often contains other fi-

bers besides wool; 2, short silk fibersrecovered from goods; usually con-tains other fibers.

Shoe Cloth Very strong and durableworsted, woven with corkscrew weave,weighing between 12 and 18 oz. peryard. The warp ends vary from 80to 150 per inch with picks rangingfrom 80 to 140 to an inch. The warpis usually double thread and the fill-

ing single worsted, sometimes alsocotton. The cloth is usually madeas single fabric; used for shoetops.

Shogged Stitch In knit fabrics; used toform the edges of the garments.

Shooda Commercial name for a light-weight twilled woolen dress fabric.

Shoot Another name for weft.

Shop Romal East Indian cotton hand-kerchief, woven in various colors.

Shorts 1, name for short-wool; 2, silknoil.

Shot 1, Name in England for pick (see) ;

2, another name for changeable ormottled effect.

Shotte Butadar Fine East Indian mus-lin with a sold selvage.

Shower Proofing 'Any process makingthe cloth water proof.

Shrinkage 1, the loss of weight of rawfibers in the cleaning process, as forinstance wool from the sheep's backin scouring; 2, the contraction ofwidth and length of the woven cloth,suffered in the finishing process. Inneither instance is there any standardand the same materials might shrinkdifferently under similar conditions.

Shropshire^A breed of sheep in Englandand Australia yielding a long, fine,

strong and lustrous wool.

Shroud Laid A rope having a core andfour strands twisted around it.

Shroud Rope In nautics a finer qualityof rope, composed of three plies; usedfor standing rigging.

Shuka Native name in East Africa for

half bleached cotton fabrics, importedfrom India; used for loin cloths.

Shulah Gray wool from Shetland Isles.

S hurled Hogget 'First fleece from asheep, after it has been shorn aslamb.

Shusu Japanese silk satin.

Shute 'Similar to tram.

Siamese Cotton Grown in the Antilles

and India, has a white, short staple.

Siamoise 1, stout French coutil (see),

made with linen warp and cotton orsilk filling, in stripe or check pat-terns; used for drapery, lining, etc.;

2, originally a very rich, figured silk

and cotton satin; obsolete; 3, mousse-line made of silk and cotton; 4, rnadaalso in all-cotton, characterized that

warp and filling are always of con-

trasting colors.

SIA 143 SIL

Siara Variety of raw cotton from SouthAmerica.

Siauni Term for Spanish stripes andcassimeres in China.

Sibirienne Plain woven or twilled, thickwoolen fabric with a long nap, fin-

ished with a high gloss.

Sibucara Silky seed hair, grown on aspecies of the Bombax tree in Ven-ezuela; used for stuffing.

Sicilian A lustrous, lightweight fabric,made of fine, hard spun cotton warpand mohair filling of lower countin plain weave.

Sicilienne Originally from Sicily; it la

a plain woven silk fabric with heavyweft ribs; now made with silk warpand a heavier cotton or wool fillingin plain weave, forming cross ribs,similar to poplin.

Sida 'White, strong and lustrous bast fi-

ber, yielded by the sida plants in In-

dia, South America and Australia;used for cordage.

Sidebands (Fabrics in America, usuallyprinted with a band effect near toone of the selvages. They are usedfor trimming purposes.

Sidshillat East Indian linen printed withsmall figures.

Siena Point See darned lace.

Sieuhwakin Chinese shawls made of em-broidered white crepe.

Sifori A Medieval silk fabric of unknownstructure.

Siglaton 'Rich silk dress goods of theMiddle Ages, originated from the Ori-ent.

Sign Cloth 'Heavily starched, coarsebleached cotton muslin; used for

signs.

Silence Cloth Heavy and thick bleachedand napped cotton fabric; used underthe table cloth.

Silesia Stout twilled cotton lining, witha glossy finish on the face. Dyed In

the piece in dark colors.

Silesian Merino The finest wool In theworld.

Silesie Obsolete, very durable Frenchtwilled woolen, made with a different

colored warp and weft.

Silhouette French, plain woven cloth of

cotton warp and a different coloredlinen filling, giving a scintillating ef-

fect.

Silk A transparent fiber, composed of

two filaments (brins) encased in gumwhen in natural state, having an evendiameter. It is very strong, elastic

and hygroscopic. It ie the productof cocoons made by the silk wormwhich feeds on the leaves of the mul-berry tree. The color of the cocoonsis white or yellow from the gum se-

creted by the worm. After the gumis removed by boiling in soap andwater the color of the silk will be

white or pale cream. The wild silk,

the worm of which feeds on certain

oak trees in China, India and Japan,is ecru colored even after the gumhas been removed. See Wild Silk.

The chrysalides are killed by heatand certain number of cocoons, de-pending upon the count of thread re-

quired, are placed in a basin of hotwater, which softens the gum. Thebroken outside fibers are removed andafter the ends are collected they arepassed through a guide and wound ona reel, a cocoon yielding from 400

yards to 1,200 yards of silk ftber. Thegum will hold the different fibers

together as it cools down and dries.

This is the raw or refeled silk, its

size being expressed by the denier,233% deniers of this reeled silk mak-ing one ounce avoirdupois and thenumber of the deniers comprised in

a hank or skein (476 meters or 520

yards) expresses the count of the

yarn.Different from the reeled silk is the

spun silk, made of pierced cocoonsand of the waste from the reeled silk.

The cocoons or the waste are first

degummed, then opened and combed,lapped, put through the drawing andthe roving frames and then spun into

singles, then doubled and twistedagain, gassed and wound on reels orspools. In numbering spun silk theFrench system takes as a basis thenumber of 1,000 meters of singles con-tained in one kilo (2.2 Ibs.) thus 90

singles has 90,000 meters in a kilo,

while number 2-80 has 40,000 kilos.

The English system of counting spunsilk is the number of hanks (840

yards) contained in one pound avoir-

dupois, thus number 40 would have3,600 yards per pound. Before dye-

ing the silk is degummed by boilingin water and soap, then rinsed in cold

water, after which the silk is often

weighted with tin salts, iron or other

foreign matter. Certain yarns are

dyed in the gum, and others, called

euples, with only part of the. gum

removed.The lustre of the silk Is Increased

by diluted acids and surfers whentreated by diluted alkalies. Silk Is

rapidly dissolved In zinc chloride,

nitric acid, hot solution of caustic

soda, chromic acid solution, etc. It

has affinity for metallic salts,' and

tannic acid, the latter being used In

"weighting." 'The action of concen-trated acids (after brief treatment

only) produces a crepe effect on silks.

Official classification of raw silks

in New York is European: Grand ex-

tra; extra classical; best classical;

classical; best No. 1; No. 1; Reallna.

Japan silks: I Filatures: Double ex-

tra; extra; Sinshiu extra; best No.

1 to extra; best No. 1; hard nature

No. 1; No. 1; No. 1-1%; No. 1%:'No. l%-2; No. 2. II Reieels: Extra;No. 1; No. 1-1%; No. 1%; No. l%-2;

No. 2; No. 2-2%; No. 2%; No. S.

HI Kakeda: Best extra; extra; No. 1;

No. 2; No. 3.

The best grade of reeled silk fur-

nishes the organzine, while tram is

obtained from inferior silk.

SIL 144 SJA

Silk Camlet Silk cloth of two-coloredwarp, the filling being of a third color.

Silk Cotton A widely used term, appliedto the fine and lustrous fibers yieldedby the seed pods of a great numberof trees and plants.

Silk Grassy-General term applied to manylustrous fibers of the pineapple orother plants, especially the white,strong and silky fiber yielded by theFurcroea cubensis, in tropical Amer-ica.

Silk Nankeen English nankeen havingsilk satin stripes over a cotton foun-dation.

Silk Wadding Waste silk resulting fromspinning bourette eilk.

Silkeen A finely ribbed English cotton

fabric, printed with colored patternover a colored foundation and highlyglazed.

Silkaline A very light, printed, plainwoven, glossy cotton fabric, made in

the gray and calendered; used for

lining, curtains, etc.

Silkworm Gut Used for fishing lines; the

silk worms are immersed in strongvinegar for a couple of hours andthen pulled apart, each worm yield-

ing two thick stringe of great

strength.

Silvalin Trade term for a paper yarnmade in England.

Silver Cloth French fabric, composed of

4-5 of wool and one-fifth of asclepiascotton.

Silver Cord English cotton velvet havingnarrow ribs.

Simal Cotton Medium strong, soft, shortand silky seed hair of reddish browncolor, grown on the Simal tree (a

species of Bombax) in India; usedfor stuffing.

Simpatico Bleached cotton ehirting ofmedium stiff finish, about 35 incheswide.

Simpson See Dickson.

Sinamay 'Light, plain woven fabric, madeby the natives of the Philippines of

abaca fibers. It usually comes in con-trasting colored stripes; used for gar-ments by the natives.

Sinclaii A Highland tartan, composed asfollows: *Green stripe; group (as

wide as green stripe) composed of ablack stripe, a fine white line and ablue stripe, the latter being widerthan the black; "red stripe, beingsomewhat wider than all the stripesmentioned above; repeat, in reversedorder, stripes mentioned between two.*

Sindh Very coarse and inferior knottedrugs made in India.

Sindon Very fine cotton or linen clothin old Babylon; a fine medieval linen

fabric.

Singapatti Native East African name for

fancy colored printed cotton shawls.

Singeing A finishing process for remov-ing loose fibers or nap from the sur-face of the cloth, by passing it abovegas flames or over a hot plate.

Single Cloth Is woven with one set ofwarp and one set of filling, irrespec-tive of the weave.

Single Cover Trade term for such fab-rics figured with extra wefts, whichhave only one figuring pick to eachground pick.

Single Damask 'Both the ground and thepattern, or only the ground is wovenin five-leaf satin.

Single Plush A plain knitted fabric, madewith one face yarn and having thebacking yarn almost entirely on theback of the cloth. It is then napped;used for underwear.

Single Poplin A lightweight poplin.

Single Silk iSilk thread consisting ofeisht or ten reeled filaments twistedtogether; used for gold tinsel.

Single Width 'Same as narrow width.

Single Worsted 'Medieval English wors-ted, half yard wide.

Singles Yarn consisting of only onestrand; one-ply yarn.

Singonne Very stout, black, closely wov-en fulled and coarse woolen with along nap; it sheds the water and is

used in various European countriesfor winter clothing by the poorerclasses.

Sinna Knot See Senna knot.

Sipacheutoochwongyong Black, curl pilesilk velvet in China, made with sergefoundation; used for hats, etc.

Siradjganj Same as Deswal.

Siretz Trade term for Russian uncleanedflax.

Sirkar Mat (Made of Munj (see) in Cal-cutta.

Sirsacca Obsolete French fabric of eatin

patterns over a gold tissue ground.

Sisal Very strong, smooth, yellowish leaf

.fiber yielded by the Agave rigida of

Central America and the West In-

dies; used for cordage.

Sister's Thread Same as nun's thread.

Sistresay .From East India and Turkey,made with two warps, one silk, theother cotton, and a spun silk filling

in damask patterns with colored

stripes.

Sittara Unbleached cotton cloth from In-

dia.

Six Oaks Commercial variety of mediummaturing upland cotton, the staplemeasuring 35-40 millimeters; the yieldis 28-130 per cent.

Six Quarter Goods Measuring 54 inchesin width.

Sixth Combing 'Wool taken from the low-er part of the thigh; also called

breech.

Size 'Starchy or gummy preparationsused for giving the yarn or the cloth

weight, strength or appearance.

Sizing 'Finishing process; consists of

treating yarns or fabrics with size

for strength, weight or appearance.

Sjadra East Indian coarse, unbleachedcotton cloth.

SJA 145 SOD

Sjappolen Fine cotton print from theLevant.

Skein A length of yarn, used as standardmeasure, being 840 yards for cottonyarn and 560 for wool.

Skene A Highland tartan, composed asfollows: Red stripe, split in the cen-ter by a green line; dark blue stripe,as wide as the red; red stripe, widthand split as above; green stripe, aswide as one red and the blue stripestogether; red stripe, width and splitas above; green stripe, as above.

Skin Wool Taken from the skins of

slaughtered sheep, either removed bysweating, or by sodium sulphide or

by lime (slipe wool).

Skips "Flaw in cloth where a warp threadskips over more filing threads thanintended.

Skirting 1, in wool sorting the removalof the stained parts of the fleece, asthe legs and the whole edge of the

fleece; 2, rag sorting term, meaningrags of women's dress goods andmen's coat linings, containing cotton

and wool.

Skyteen A cotton shirting made in Eng-land with a five shaft, warp facedsatin weave. It has stripes on a light

indigo ground.

Slanetz Trade term for Russian, dewrotted flax.

Slanting Cross Stitch In embroidery a

variety of cross stitch and but little

used. The first part is same as the

cross stitch, the return made like the

gobelin stitch (see), can be used onlyon fine foundation.

Sleave Sort of floss silk used in the 17th

century in England.

Sleided Silk Obsolete name for eilk

waste.

SI ey Name for warp in England.

Sleyes 17th century English worstodfabric.

Slip Measure for wool, linen and jute

yarns in England, equal to 1,800 yards.

SHpe iWool removed from the sk*i of the

sheep by painting the flesh side with

lime; used for serges, hosiery, wool-

ens, blankets, corsets, etc.

Slipper Carpet 'Warp-pile fabric madewith colored Jacquard figures, used

for bags, slippers, etc.

Slips Trade name for low-grade vel-

vets.

Sliver A continuous rope of loose, un-

twisted cotton or wool fibers, the out-

put of the card.

Slop Padding A printing process used on

chintzes and some calicoes. The fab-

ric is first printed with resist after

which the color is applied to the en-

tire face of the cloth by means of an

unengraved roller.

Slough Grass A sedge, growing in Iowa,

yielding very strong fibres, used for

twine.

Slub Flaw in yarns, consisting of thick,

uneven twisted places; soft lumps onthe sliver.

Slub Yarn In England yarn made withnubs, often of a different color fromthe yarn.

Stubbing Doubled and slightly twistedsliver.

Smalkens Obsolete thin silk or linencloths, interwoven with gold or silverthreads; made in Holland.

Small Chain The binder warp in certaincarpets, as Wilton or Brussels.

Smith Standard Commercial variety ofmedium maturing cotton from Louis-iana, same as Ben Smith.

Smock Linen Stout linen cloth, used forcoats in England.

Smooth PeruvianCotton, having soft,smooth and pliable staple of fairstrength; it is white.

Smyrna Greek cotton, having a mediumv strong, harsh and fairly clean stapleof dull white color.

Smyrna Rugs 1, trade name for Turkishrugs made in Asia Minor and mar-keted through Smyrna; 2, in America,factory-made reversible rugs and car-pets, made with chenille filling.

Snicks 'Flaws in the yarn, consisting ofvery thin places.

Snowflake In England woolens, havingwhite nubs on the face. See alsobourette.

Soap Used extensively in scouring, calicoprinting, fulling woolens, dyeing silkwith black, etc.

Sochs Raw cotton from the Levant.

Soda Used in scouring wool and asbleaching agent for vegetable fibres;used also in weighting silk to fix tinsalts.

Sodium Bichromate Used in calico print-ing as discharge, as a mordant in wooldyeing, as a developer in dyeing andprinting with aniline black.

Sodium Bisulphate Used in dyeing wool;it increases the affinity of the fibrefor the dyes.

Sodium Bisulphite Used for bleachingand as reducing agent to remove man-ganese peroxide.

Sodium Chlorate Used in oxidizing ani-line black.

Sodium Ferrocyanide Used in dyeingwith Prussian blue.

Sodium Hyposulphite Used to reducethe bleaching powder in the fibres,also employed as a resist in dyeingcotton goods with aniline black and asfixing agent of metallic oxides in cali-co printing.

Sodium Nitrite Used in dyeing andprinting cotton goods with diazo col-ors.

Sodium Peroxide Used for bleachingsilk.

Sodium Phosphate Used in weightingsilk and in dyeing with azo colors andTurkey red.

Sodium Stannate Used in mordanting azodyes.

SOE 146 SPI

Soesjes Light East Indian cotton clothmade in colored and white stripes,used for head covering.

Sof 1, a very fine, plain woven fabric,made by the natives of Kashmir ofthe finest sort of mohair; obsolete; 2,

very light, changeable or brocaded fine

woolen from Asia Minor.Sofit Cotton fabric in the West African

trade, made m imitation of figuredgauze.

Soft Finish Fabrics, especially cottons,finished with very little or no size.

Soft Goods In England same as drygoods.

Softs In England same as shoddy.Soie French for silk.

Soie Mi-serree French term for loosetwist, glossy silk yarn for crochet.

Soie Mitorse Half twisted silk yarn forembroidery. See Mitorse silk.

Soie Ondee <Silk yarn used for gauze;it is made by twisting a fine andcoarse thread together.

Soie Ovale French term for silk em-broidery yarn.

Soie Platte 'French floss silk yarn usedfor embroidery, tapestry, etc.

Soie Vegetale Flax treated to have ahigh, permanent lustre. It bleachesand dyes well; used for braids, laces,etc.

Soisette 'Highly finished mercerized cot-ton fabric; used for lining, etc.

Soleil 1, very highly finished all-woolfabric, woven with a warp twill inbroken rib effect; 2, French for highlustre effects in textiles; 3, name fora warp rib weave.

Solid Colored 'Fabric dyed in one color.

Solidonia 'Proprietary name for a fiberof gloss and metallic whiteness andharsh feel, used for knit goods assubstitute for silk or wool. It is

made of a fibrous grass.

Solisooty East Indian soft cotton mus-lin made of slack twist yarn.

Sologesses 'Fine East Indian muslin.

Solomon Bar In macrame lace fourthreads braided together flat.

Somaliland Fiber >Long and flexible le'af

fiber of the Sanseviera Ehrenbergiiin Africa.

Sommiere All-wool, French serge, madevery soft and napped on one or bothsides; us^d for lining of winter gar-ments. Comes in bleached, ecru or

dyed in the piece.

Soots Romal East Indian cotton shawlswith colored stripes or window plaid.

Sorcr-ote 'East Indian calico.

Soria Harsh raw wool from Spain.

Sorting See woolsorting.

Sorting Penniston Coarse English wool-en, made of shoddy.

Sosquil Native Mexican name for the

henequen of Yucatan.

Soucha Chinese silk crepon with blue

stripes.

Soudanin Obsolete, rich gold tissue, im-ported from the Orient.

Soumak Rugs All-wool tapestry rugawoven in Transcaucasia. They comein all sizes. The design is geometri-cal. The hook is often used, thestiches being made in the herringbonefashion. It is also called Kashmir.'Modern S. are made in loose weaveand with coarse dye.

Souple Single filament of natural silkwith the gum only partly boiled out(also called Mi-cuit).

Sourbassis 'White or yellowish Persianraw silk of fine quality.

Soutache 'Narrow rounded braid wovenin herringbone effect with odd num-ber of threads made either plain orfancy; used for trimming.

Southern Hope^Commercial variety oflate maturing cotton from the South-ern belt, the staple measuring 28-32millimeters; the yield is 30-32 percent.

Sozin Cotton bed sheeting, made in In-dia.

Spangle Same as Spyndle (see).

Spanish Broom Yields fine fiber, used in

Spain for fine tissues and lace; in

Italy and France for durable cloth.

Spanish Cloth Fine woolen fabric, dyedblack or scarlet; during the 18th

century in England.

Spanish Crape An 18th century all-wors-ted English fabric.

Spanish Linen Stout, narrow, plain wov-en washable fabric, made of linen

warf.) and cotton Wiling; used for

summer clothes.

Spanish Stitch In embroidery cross

stitches arranged in a row to forma line on the face of the fabric andsquares on the back.

Spanish Stripes A lightweight, wide andfulled woolen cloth, originally madeof Spanish wool with striped selvage,now made mostly in England. It is

light, very soft and well finished witha light nap.

Sparagon Inferior English woolen suit-

ing; obsolete.

Speckle Uneven dyeing in yarns or

cloths.

Speculation Plain woven fabric of cot-

ton or linen yarn and silk filling, fin-

ished with moire effect; obsolete.

Spider Leno 'See net leno.

Spider Weave Name for weaves produc-ing a net-like effect on the face of

the cloth by floating and deflecting

either the warp or the weft threads.

Spider Web Very fine and silky varietyof cotton from (Mississippi; see Cob-web.

Spider Wheel 'See Catherine wheel.

Spidernet Obsolete, plain knitted fabric,

made of white cotton yarn.

Spine In hand-made laces points dec-

orating the cordonnet (see).

Spinning The process of forming a yarnof cotton, wool, flax, etc., fibers, bydrawing and twisting.

SPI 147 STE

Spiral Yarn Contains a soft spun yarntwisted in a corkscrew fashion arounda different colored single or two-ply,hard spun core.

Spliced Reinforced parts of hosierywhere the wear is the greatest.

Split 1, narrow fabrics, like ribbons, lin-

ings, etc., woven in double width withcenter selvages formed by crossingone thread over several warp threadsin leno weave. The fabric is cut in

the middle between the center sel-

vages and the latter sometimes is re-inforced with size; 2, cheap, plainwoven, narrow cotton goods, wovenas above.

Split Foot^Colored hosiery made with awhite sole.

Split Stitch A flat chain stitch used in

old church embroidery.

Sponge 1, name for a crepe weave (see)made with equal number of warpand weft floats; 2, a honeycombweave, made with small diamonds ona satin ground, resulting in verysmall cells.

Sponge Cloth 1, coarse fabric, made ofcotton waste and used for cleaningmachinery; 2, fine dress fabric of cot-

ton, wool or silk, made of nub yarnin twill weave.

Spool Cotton 'Sewing cotton thread,wound on a spool, made of threestrands, each being a double strand.

Spots English cotton goods woven withdots on a great variety of founda-tions.

Spotting In England same as crabbing.

Sprig 'Patterns of flowers and leavesin hand -made laces, made separatelyand appliqued on a net ground.

Sprouting Defect in Brussels and tapes-try rugs and carpets, consisting ofsome of the loops protruding abovethe surface.

Spun Glass Glass thread of great fine-

ness, dyed in various colors, braidedand made into neckwear, as in Venice.

Spun Silk Yarn made of pierced cocoons,winder's waste or frisons. The fibers

are degummed by boiling in soapsudsor chemicals, or by maceration or de-cay. The fibers are put through the

combing, drawing, roving and spin-ning processes.

Spyndle Count for dry-spun flax yarnand jute yarn, consisting of 48 cuts(or leas) of 300 yards each, whichmake up a spyndle of 14,400 yards,the weight in pounds of a spyndlebeing the count of the yarn.

Srinagar Knotted rugs made in Kash-mir, India, of very fine wool.

Stained Cloth (Antiquated term for dra-pery painted with figures, to imitatetapestry.

Stamatte All-wool, colored cloth, madein Holland, usually dyed in the yarn;obsolete.

Stamel Coarse, stout English worsted ofthe 16th century, often dyed red for

petticoats; obsolete.

Stamen The name for warp in ancientRome.

Stamen Forte 'Medieval French worstedfabric.

Stamin An obsolete linsey woolsey.

Stammett 16th century, very fine Englishworsted, name as Tammies. SeeStamel.

Stamped Velvet Velvet having patternsstamped into the pile with heated en-graved rollers.

Stamyn .Stout and durable English wors-ted; obsolete.

Stannic Chloride Used extensively in

weighting silk, also in mordanting cot-ton and in dyeing wool with alizarine.

Stannous Chloride Used as a mordant insilk dyeing; as a discharging chemicalin calico printing; in dyeing wool withcochineal.

Stanium Fine, stout woolen of the Mid-dle Ages.

Staple 1, trade term for the cotton orwool fiber; 2, trade term for a va-riety of fabrics, like serge or satin,which are being made and sold yearafter year, as contrasted with novel-ties; 3, a tuft of wool clinging to-

gether.

Star Stitch Similar to double stitch

(see).

Starch Used extensively in .printing andfinishing cotton goods.

Starching Finishing process, consists of

treating the fabric (usually cotton)with solution of starch for appear-ance, strength or weight.

Statute Galloons^Narrow cotton or silk

braids, used in England for bindingflannel underwear.

Stauracin Byzantine silk fabric figuredwith small crosses.

Stay Striped tape used by tailors in Eng-land to bind edges.

Stay Binding Tape to lace women's cor-sets.

Steam Filature See filature.

Steam Styles 'Methods of textile print-ing, in which the colors are set withsteam after printing.

Steinkirke Cotton handkerchiefs, for-

merly made in India.

Stella Shawl French shawl made withfour brocaded borders sewed to the

body, having warp fringes at both

ends, two adjacent borders having the

pattern on the face and the twoothers on the back; obsolete.

Stem Stitch In embroidery stitches

placed next to each other to imitate

the twiet of a rope.

Stenter Fine book muslin in England.

Stephanie Lace Modern handmade lace

in imitation of the Point Venise.

STE 148 STU

Stewart Various Highland tartans, com-posed as follows:Royal Stewart: Wide red stripe;

light blue stripe, almost one-eighthof the red; black stripe, wider thanpale blue; group of yellow, black,white and black lines; green stripe,about one-quarter of wide red stripe*;red stripe, twice as wide as the green,split by one fine white line (in the

center) and two, somewhat heavierblack lines, the three lines spacedevenly; repeat, in reversed order

groups mentioned between the two*.Old Stewart: Dark brown stripe,

edged by red lines and split by a finer

red line; dark green stripe, twice aswide as the former, divided into threeeven parts by two dark blue stripes,each edged by black lines; dark brownstripe, as above; dark blue stripe,

split by two groups of narrow stripes,

each group consisting of three blackand two green lines.

Dress Tartan: White field, half the

width of the entire colored group;narrow light blue stripe; wider black

stripe; group of fine lines in yellow,

black, white and black; dark greenstripe, wider than the black*; red

stripe (as wide as all the above men-tioned colored stripes, except the blue)

divided into four even parts by one

very fine white line and two heavierblack lines; repeat, in reversed order,

all stripes mentioned between two *.

Prince Charles Edward: Red stripe;

*group (as wide as the red stripe)

composed of dark blue stripe, a wider

black, fine yellow line, narrow black,

white and black stripes; green stripe,

half the width of the red*; red stripe

(as wide as the first one) split by afine white line and two narrow black

stripes; repeat, in reversed order,

groups mentioned between two *.

Hunting: Dark green stripe, split

by a narrow red stripe; black stripe,

as wide as the green, split in the cen-

ter and near the edges by narrow

green stripes; green stripe, as the

first one, split in the center by a nar-

row yellow stripe; black stripe, aboutone- fifth of the green; dark blue

stripe, as wide as the green, split in

the center by a narrow green stripe

and near each edge by a pair of

fine black lines.

Stiffening Cloth Horsehair underlining.

Stirling Serge 'Fine worsted Scotch sergeof the 17th century.

Stitchel <Hair-like wool with little ser-

rations on the surface.

Stock Dyeing The process of dyeing fi-

bers in raw state (in the grain) be-

fore being spun.

Stockinet 1, a heavily napped knitted

fabric, cut and sewed up into un-

derwear; 2, seamless, tubular cotton

fabric, made on knitting machines.

Stone Cotton Trade name for Brazilian

cotton.

Stoppa Trade term in Italy for scutch-

ing tow of the Italian hemp; used for

ropes.

Stores Lace curtains for store windows.

Storax A Medieval silk fabric.

Storm Serge In the United States a verylight serge weighing about 7 ounces,made of single warp and filling; usedfor women's coats.

Stout A property of certain fabrics, beingthe combination of close weave andweight.

Stoving The process of bleaching rawwool or fabrics with sulphur fumes.

Stradella A French woolen damaskshawl.

Stragulatae 'Medieval silks with stripepattern.

Straights, Straits 1, English kersey un-der Henry VIII; 2, narrow and me-dium quality woolens in medievalEngland.

Straiken A linen fabric made in Scotland.

Stramenta Linen sheeting in ancientRome.

Strand The immediate composite part of

rope, thread and ply yarn.

Strand Ground In hand-made laces ir-

regular brides connecting the sprigs.

Stranfa 'Fiber obtained from straw; usedin Germany as substitute for jute.

Strappatura Trade term for pluckingwaste of the Italian hemp, graded as<S E, S P S and S T.

Strasse Sort of floret silk obtained byconverting duppions into waste.

Strazza Waste of silk in Italy.

Streak Stitch The open veins of leavesin hand-made laces.

Streaks Flaw in solid colored, yarn dyedgoods, consisting of shaded streaks,caused by imperfect dyeing.

Strepsikeros Wool Long and coarse woolfrom Crete.

Stricot Obsolete French fabric, madewith heavy ply warp of wool and cot-ton and fine, single worsted yarn forfilling. It is fulled in the finish.

String 1, two or three-ply coarse threadof hemp or flax of various thicknessand fineness; 2, a unit of ten feet, ac-cording to which woolen warps arecalculated in Yorkshire, England.

Stringy 1, thin, delicate stapled wool; 2,

a flaw in the wool, consisting in slightmatting, caused by imperfect scour-ing; 3, defective raw cotton, the fibers

forming strings, caused through theginning of too wet cotton.

Stripe Braid Has stripes, often of differ-

ent colors or materials interlaced witheach other.

StrippingRemoval of coloring matter bymeans of bleaching.

Strussa Waste silk, obtained fromdouble cocoons (duppions).

Stuffs A large number of standard dress

goods and linings made in Bradford,England, usually plain woven andmade with cotton warp and mohair,alpaca or lustre wool filling.

Stuffing 1, a slack twisted yarn whichis in quilted fabrics (pique, mar-seilles, etc.), producing the embossedpatterns; 2, same as after treating.

STU 149 SWA

Stumba Combing silk obtained from thewaste of shappe silk; it is quite coareeand is used for filling yarn, coarseknitted fabrics, etc.

Stymboline Felt made of woolen andlinen yarn in France.

Subahia Xative East African name forcotton fabrics woven with dark blue,brown and yellow checks and a wideborder of silk and gold threads.

Subsericae Medieval fabrics made partlyof silk.

Substitute A cheaper or inferior fiber

which takes the place of a more ex-

pensive one, as for instance cottonused instead of wool or silk.

Succatoons Dyed cotton goods in theAfrican markets.

Suedoise French serge, made with 8 har-nesses and 4 picks in a repeat.

Suffed-simul Silky, yellowish, seed hairof the Bombax tree in India.

Suffolk Lace English bobbin lace of plain

patterns, the design usually outlinedwith a thick thread.

Sugar Loaf A now obsolete commercialvariety of upland cotton.

Sukkerdon East Indian muslin.

Sulphate of Alum Used extensively as

mordanting agent and to render fab-rics waterproof.

Sulphur Colors Direct, fast artificial dyesproducing mostly darker shades. Theyare used on vegetable fibers and areapplied in an alkaline bath. Theyall contain sulphur.

Sulphuric Acid Used in mordanting andcarbonizing and dyeing (with aciddyes) wool, in calico printing, in dis-

charging indigo, etc.

Sulphuring 'See Stoving.

Sultanabad 'Medium and large size Per-sian rugs made with thick pile. Thedesign consists of floral patterns inbrilliant blue, red and green colors.

Summer Silk Same as Louisine (see).

Suningchow Soft silk serge in solid col-

ors, made in China; is about 32 incheswide.

Sunn Hemp Strong, durable and lightcolored bast fiber yielded by the cro-talaria juncea of Southern Asia; usedfor cordage, bags, etc.

Supei 1, merino clothing wool, takenfrom the back, across the loins to neckof a fleece; 2, standard grade of theingrain carpet, having 960 warp endsin a yard and 12 pairs of fillings in aninch.

Super-combing Long wool taken from thefinest part of the fleece the shoul-ders.

Suples Silk yarn dyed with only part ofthe gum removed.

Supukwenkin Silk fabric similar to lust-ring; made in China; used for scarfs.

Surah Very soft and flexible twilled silkdress goods without any dressing;mostly in white or very light colors.There is also an East Indian taffetaprinted in Europe.

Surah de Laine Fine, twilled, soft dressgoods, made of silk and wool.

Surat East Indian cotton, often with astained but strong staple of dull whitecolor; contains much leaf.

Surepach East Indian cotton muslin.

Surette Very coarse and open French jutebagging, two warps and two weftscrossing at the same time.

Surinam Variety of raw cotton fromGuyana; the flber is white or yellow-ish, lustrous and strong.

Susces 'East Indian lightweight all silk

taffeta.

Susetchen Chinese ecru foulard, madeof wild silk. It is about 20 incheswide.

Susha Plain woven ecru silk fabric madein China. About 21 inches wide.

Susi 'Cotton fabrics made in India withcolored stripes or checks on grayground.

Susienchow 'Solid colored silk gros deNaples with wavy ribs, made In

China; is about 24 inches wide. Thewarp is of organzine and the fillingof spiral yarn.

Sussex Lawn English dress goods of lightweight, unbleached linen.

Sutherland A Highland tartan, com-posed as follows: dark green stripe,split in the center by a very narrowblack stripe; black stripe, half aswide as the green; dark blue stripe,as wide as the green, split by a pairof very narrow black stripes, placednear the edges and spaced from eachother and from the edge their ownwidth; green stripe, width and splitas above; dark blue stripe, as wideas above, split in the center by a sin-gle pair of very narrow, black stripes,spaced their own width.

Suti Twisted cotton rope in India; usedwith tents.

Sutton Early maturing commercial va-riety of upland cotton, same as Peer-less.

Suttringee East Indian thick and stiff

cotton rug.

Sutwan Various Chinese piece dyed silksatins.

Suzeni Embroidery Persian needlework,consisting of couched silk or goldthreads.

Swansdown 1, an uneven sided, four har-ness twill weave, the filling threadspassing over three warps and pass-ing under one; 2, a stout, weft facedcotton fabric woven in the swans-down twill with a soft spun filling,the weave containing about twice asmany picks than ends. In the finishinga nap is raised in the face; used forunderwear and workmen's clothes in

England.

Swanskin 1, thick, closely woven, Eng-lish woolen cloth similar to flannel;used for laborers' suits; 2, an 18thcentury fabric in England made ofworsted warp and woolen filling.

SWE 150 TAF

Sweating The process of removing woolfrom the skin, by exposing the skins,which are first soaked in water, to

high temperature.Swiss Applique A very light, sheer cot-

ton fabric, having small, separate (notcontinuous) patterns printed in onlyone color. These patterns are raisedand consist of finely ground cottonfibers which are stuck to the clothwith glue.

Swiss Brussels Curtains with patternsoutlined in chainstitch by the tam-bour machine.

Swiss Cambric A white cotton lawn.

Swiss Embroidery Washable machine andhand embroidery made, mostly whiteover white, in Switzerland.

Swiss Mull Very thin, bleached anddressed cotton dress goods.

Swiss Muslin Fine, thin cotton muslin,made in Switzerland; it is plain ordotted.

Swissing Process of calendering bleachedmuslins between hot rollers.

Swivel Fabrics Trade term for a varie-

ty of silk or cotton fabrics, havingrelatively heavy Jacquard figures or

spots on a very light ground. Theyare used for dresses, waists, over-dreslses, etc. The dots or figuresare either woven into the cloth withan extra filling, floating on the backof the cloth between the different

patterns, and shorn away in the fin-

ishing process, or made as lappet workthe extra thread forming a trailing

design.

Swivel Weaving Consists of introducinga number of small shuttles besidesthe fly shuttle, which produce smalldesigns on the foundation. There is

one shuttle for each figure, and theydo not leave long floats. The result is

similar to embroidery.

Sword Sedge Strong leaf and stem fiber

yielded by the Lepidosperma gladiatain Australia; used for lines and bas-kets by the natives.

Syddo A fairly stiff but flexible woolen;used for coat fronts in lieu of hair-cloth.

Syndonus A better sort of cendal (see).

T Cloth In Latin-America and the FarEast a coarse, plain woven, gray cot-ton shirting with colored head ends;made in England always 28-32 incheswide and 24 yards long, and heavilysized.

Taag Same as Sunn Hemp (see).

Tabaret Stout, fine silk drapery fabricwith alternate stripes of satin andmoire in different colors.

Tabbinet 1, fine drapery poplin of silk

warp and wool filling with moire fin-

ish; 2, also a thin moire taffeta lin-

ing.

Tabby 1, British equivalent of moire; 2,

a thick and coarse taffeta or worstedfabric with moire finish; 3, cottonvelvet, made with weft pile and plainground.

Tabis Heavy, all-silk taffeta made withorganzine warp.

Tabis de Verone Italian all-silk taffeta

moire; obsolete.

Taborett 18th century woolen fabric in

England, made plain or brocaded.

Taborine A 19th century English wors-ted, being a lower grade of moreen(see).

Tabouret A highly finished French wool-en used for furniture upholstery; ob-solete.

Tabriz Rugs Usually large size Persianrugs with cotton warp; the short andvery close wool pile is tied in Ghiordesknot. The favorite design consists ofa large center medallion with curvedoutlines and fine floral and animalpatterns. Often several small medal-lions are used with inscriptions.

Tadpole Eponge Made of several plainends alternating with one loop yarnand of plain filling, the knots beingscattered irregularly over the sur-face.

Taffechela English cotton fabric of fine

texture, made with blue warp andwhite filling in plain weave; obso-lete.

Taffeta 1, a less costly silk fabric thancendal, used for lining in the MiddleAges in England; 2, formerly tradename in England for all-wool shirt-

ings, with fancy warp stripes; 3, aplain and closely woven, very smoothsilk fabric, the warp and weft beingof the same or nearly the same count;used for dress goods and lining. Form-erly it was a very rich, stout andsomewhat stiff fabric; at the presentit is made very pliable (called chiffontaffeta). It comes usually as a sin-

gle fabric, solid colored or changeable;if double-faced two sets of filling ofdifferent colors are used. Taffeta is

often used as foundation for velvet or

gold brocades, for the reverse side ofsatin ribbons and in other combina-tions.

Taffetas d'Angleterre Very stout andhighly glazed French all-silk taffeta:used for scarfs, dresses, curtains, etc.;obsolete.

Taffetas Armoisin Trade term for thelowest grades of French taffetas; ob-solete.

Taffetas d'Avignon A very low grade oftaffetas, made in France, in all colors,and used for lining, curtains, etc.; ob-solete.

Taffetas Chagrin Taffeta dotted in manycolors, used for drapery and lining;now obsolete.

TAP 151 TAP

Taffetas d'Espagne French all silk taf-

feta of various qualities, mostly in

lightweight. Some grades were givena finish; obsolete.

Taffeta Flannel A lightweight, unshrink-able wool fabric, made in plain weavewith colored stripes and checks; usedfor sporting shirts.

Taffetas Fleuret Silk taffeta made of

hard twist waste silk; obsolete.

Taffetas de Florence Very light and in-

ferior French silk taffeta lining; ob-solete.

Taffetas Prismatique Lustrous, Frenchall-silk taffeta. The warp is colored in

the various shades of the rainbow.The filling- is white.

Taffetas de Tours French, silk taffeta lin-

ing of dull finish; obsolete.

Taffeta Weave See Plain Weave.Taffetine Plain woven, lightweight lin-

ing, made with closely placed organ-zine warp and coarser cotton, linen

or silk filling. It is slightly stiffened.

Taffy Obsolete moire taffeta.

Tafta Persian plain woven, rich silk fab-

ric, made of hard spun, ply yarn.

Tagal Braid made of Manila hemp andused for women's hat shapes.

Tahiti Cotton of the Sea Island type,the staple is good, silky, but irregularin length; contains a large percentageof unripe fiber.

Tahuari Native Peruvian name for athin, fibrous bast of the Courataritree; used for clothing, blankets, etc.

Tailed Cotton See Stringy 3.

Tailor's Twist Coarse, strong silk plythread; used by tailors.

Tajong A woolen fabric in the Chinesetrade.

Take A row of pile tufts in hand-maderugs.

Take-up The shortening of the warpthread after the weaving, due to thecurves formed in the interlacing withthe filling.

Tal Xative Indian name for the harsh,wiry leaf fiber, yielded by the Palmyrapalm; used for brushes.

Talanche^Plain or striped coarse clothof flax and wool in France; used for

garments by the poorer classes.

Talbot Variety of raw cotton from Mis-sissippi; identical with Allen (see).

Talitan Chinese cotton rugs with over-cast edges; used as bed covers.

Tamaito Japanese term for a grade ofsilk waste obtained from the dup-pions.

Tambour 1, the narrowest size of passing(see) embroidery thread; 2, embroid-ery, having- the design executed inin chain stitch on a machine madenet ground, with the help of a hook.

Tambour Lace Made in England and Ire-land by embroidering black or whitenet in chainstitch stretched in a tam-bour (embroidery) loo;j.

Tambour Muslin An open and clear

muslin; used for embroideries, cur-

tains, etc.

Tambour Work Is of Eastern origin, con-sisting of embroidery in chain andother stitches over a sheer materialstretched in a frame.

Tamet Woven Term in England, denot-ing fabrics woven both sides alike andwithout a wale.

Tamettas Cotton handkerchiefs fromEast India.

Taminy In England a lightweight wool-en fabric, finished with a gloss; ob-solete.

Tamis Plain and open woven and verysmoothly -finished worsted; used for

sieves.

Tamise 1, originally an English, all-woolor silk mixed open face, light fabric. 2,

French silk dress fabric, made withsatin stripes on a sheer, plain wovenground; 3, lightweight, thin, plainwoven woolen dress goods with acorded face.

Tammies Twilled, highly finished fabricsof worsted and cotton; used for dra-pery, etc.

Tammy In the 18th and 19th centuries afine, all-worsted dress fabric in Eng-land, made with single warp andtwilled, and highly finished.

Tampico Hemp A harsh, stiff leaf fiber

yielded by a variety of the agave in

Mexico. Also called ixtle; used for

ropes, etc.

Tanag A Philippine coarse leaf fiber;used for cordage.

Tandem Medium grade, bleached linenfrom Silesia; obsolete.

Tang An East Indian cotton muslin.

Tani or Tanny 1, see Aggonedbunder; 2,

a broadcloth in China.

Tanjib 'East Indian muslin of variousgrades of fineness; is often embroid-ered and has gold selvage or goldstripes at the ends. It is usually dyedor printed, and worn as head coverin India, Syria and Arabia; is about27 or 30 inches wide.

Tanners' Wool Is removed from the skinof slaughtered sheep through lime.

Tapa A very fine, fibrous sheet, obtainedthrough pounding from the bast ofthe paper mulberry tree on the FijiIslands; used for clothing by the na-tives.

Tapalos Fancy colored Mexican shawls.

Tape Very narrow cotton or linen fabric,woven in broken twill and dye in thepiece; used for binding by dressmak-ers. The grade is based on the num-ber of threads supposed to be in thewidth.

Tape Check Yard-wide English cottonfabric of light construction.

Tape Lace Consists of designs made of

tape and connected with brides orlaid upon a net ground.

Taped Two or more separate warp endsrun through one heald and woven asone.

TAP 152 TAS

Tapestry This fabric is of Oriental ori-

gin and was made either by embroid-ering a ground fabric with coloredworsted or gold and silver thread, or

by stretching the warp and workingthe pattern with colored threads, eachcolor of a weft extending only thewidth of the pattern.At the present tapestry is made

either on high (vertically stretched)or low (horizontal) warp, the prin-ciple being the same in both cases.The stout warp is stretched, from 8

to 22, within an inch space, and the

patterns worked from the wrong side

by means of small shuttles. In the

design only the filling is visible. Eachweft extends continuously only thewidth of that particular colored field,

the edges of these different coloredfields being properly interlaced witheach other to form a continuous fab-ric. When in use the tapestry is hungwith the filling running vertically.

Tapestries are ornamental textiles,used mostly for covering walls, cur-tains and also for upholstery. Theyare distinguished by the style as ver-dures, gothic renaissance, etc., andby the origin. Since the 12th cen-tury Arras, in France, also Brusselsand Lille, were the most famous placesfor tapestries, succeeded by the Gobe-lin, Savonnerie, Beauvais and Aubus-son tapestries since the 17th century.

Tapestry Back A single shed back, giv-f.n to carpets in order in increasetheir wearing quality.

Tapestry Carpet Is made with three setsof warps, one forming the loop pile,and only one frame. The pile warpis printed before weaving with thedesired pattern in any number of

colors, this being the difference be-tween the tapestry carpet and Brus-sels carpet, although the two aresimilar in appearance.

Tapestry Stitch Similar to gobelin stitch.

Tapeta Carpets and rugs of ancientEgypt, mentioned by Homer; somemade with linen warp and woolenweft.

Tapis French for 1, carpet; 2, severalfancy Oriental fabrics.

Tapissendis East Indian calico, printedon both sides, used as drapery, shawl,etc.

Tapisserie French for tapestry.

Tapisserie d'Auxerre Consists of net em-broidered with soft wool yarn in

satin stitches, forming geometricaldesigns.

Tapizadoe 18th century woolen fabric in

England.Tapsel 'Calico in various African mar-

kets, striped in blue and other colors.

Taquis 'Plain weave cotton cloth fromAleppo, Syria.

Tarandan Cotton muslin from India.

Tarare 1, French, pure or cotton mixedlinen of good quality, used for cur-tains; 2, French hemp canvas, un-bleached; made about 27 incheswide and used for furniture covering-.

Tare Bagging and ties of the cotton andwool bales, varying from less thantwo to over five per cent of the total

weight.

Tarlatan Very sheer, light cotton fabricmade in plain weave, dyed or printedand stiffened with size; used for

gowns, dresses and trimmings.

Tarlton Plain woven, very open andlight cotton fabric, dyed in the piece.Used for dresses, etc. See tarlatan.

Tarmate Waste silk, obtained fromstained or imperfect cocoons.

Tarnatan Very thin East Indian cottonmuslin.

Tarpaulin A plain woven jute or hempfabric made with taped warp, andsingle filling. The standard width is

45 inches. It is waterproofed withboiling tar.

Tartaine Medieval English worsted, madered or striped.

Tartan 1, originally Scotch twilled wool-en or worsted plaids with distinctive

designs and colors for each Highlandclan; many of the clans have morethan one tartan, as for instance thechief tartan, dress tartan, clan tartan,

hunting tartan and mourning tartan,each worn at a special occasion.These tartans appeared in the plaidor shawl worn over the shoulders andalso in the kilt; 2, woolen or worsteddress goods woven in twill or basketweave in plain patterns, usually in

blue, green, red and yellow colors;

3, in Argentine, Uruguay and Para-guay flannelettes, woven with plaidpatterns and napped on both sides.

Some of the better grades arealsomade of wool.

Tartanella Tartan plaids made of woolmixed with cotton or linen.

Tartai Used in mordanting wool.

Tartar Emetic Used in mordanting cot-ton and to fix basic dyes.

Tartarine Medieval rich silk brocade ofAsiatic origin.

Tartary Cloth A medieval fabric; seeCloth of Tars.

Tartaryn 15th century English worstedfabric of green color.

Tarver Early maturing commercial va-

riety of cotton from Alabama, nowobsolete.

Tasai Original name for tussah or tus-

sor.

Tash Indian fabric made of vari-coloredsilk warp, with small designs formedby gold or silver threads in the filling.

Tashiari Strong stem fibre of the Deb-regeasia hypoleuca in India; used for

cordage by the natives.

Tassel Tufts of cotton, wool, silk, metalor chenille yarn, with a more or less

ornamental head and a long, open or

looped end. The finer qualities are

used for dress and coat trimmings,while the heavy grades are used oncurtains and upholstered furniture.

TAS 153 TER

Tassel Stitch In Berlin wool work for

making fringes and is a variety of

the plush stitch (see); it is workedwith a mesh and the wool doubled.

Tat Coarse, East Indian linen.

Tat Chotee Native Indian name for jutecloth.

Tataja Light, flexible, cloth-like bast of

the Couratari tree, used for women'sgarments in Colombia.

Tattersall Thick woolen cloth, madewith large and conspicuous designs;used for vests.

Tatting Process of making lace by handwith a shuttle by making various

loops, forming delicate patterns. Usedfor collars, trimmings, for dresses,

doilies, insertions. Hard twist threadis necessary to show the small picots.

Tau Native Samoan name for theHibiscus plant, used for fine mats.

Taunton A medium and coarse grade of

English broadcloth, weighing 11 oz.

per yard; was made since the 16th

century.Taunton Serge 18th century worsted

serge in England; worn by women.Taurino Coarse, stout cloth made of cow

hair and wool. Used for rugs, coats,etc.

Tavestook A 16th century broadcloth in

England.

Taxili 'Sort of raw cotton from Mace-donia.

Taylor 1, commercial variety of uplandcotton from South Carolina, the largebolls yielding about 3? per o"nt of

long staple; 2, commercial variety of

upland cotton from Alabama, yield-ing short staple.

Tcharhad 'Little square hand knottedrugs in Persia.

Tchechen Rugs See Chichi rugs.

Tchembert White or fancy cotton muslinin Turkey.

Tcherkess Rugs See Circassian rugs.

Tchesma Sort of coarse raw cotton fromMacedonia.

Tcheutche Closely woven, very soft Chi-nese washable taffeta. It does notcrease and is used for garments.

Tchillia Silk yarn made in Central Asiaused for warp.

Tchusan Chinese fancy colored fabric ofworsted and cotton.

Tearing Goods English cotton and linenfabrics for the African trade.

Teasel Process to raise the nap, especial-ly of woolens, by scratching the cloth.

Teasel Cloth Another name for nap facedfabrics.

Tecun Very strong leaf fibers, yieldedby a palm in Brazil and Peru; usedfor fishing nets and lines.

Teddy Bear Cloth Fleecy coating madeof wool and mohair, the long nap is

raised after the weaving.

Teg The first fleece from yearling sheepthat was not shorn as lamb.

Tekke Turkoman Medium size, all-wool,

fringed rugs, made in Turkestan. Thevery short and close pile is tied in

Senna knot. The rugs are nearlysquare. The design always consistsof square and octagonal shapes in

crimson, madder, old rose and otherreds as chief colors, beside a little

cream, black, blue and green. Theserugs are called "Bokhara" in theUnited States.

Tekkc Oilcloth floor cover in Germany,having a cotton web. The face is

given damask effect by pressing.

Tela General name for textile fabrics in

ancient Rome.Tela del Sui Bleached cotton cloth in

Mexico.

Telas Para Zarasas Print cloths in Co-lombia.

Tellapatti Variety of raw cotton fromSouth India. The staple is coarse.

Telon Coarse, stout droguet, made in

France with linen or hemp warp andwoolen filling; obsolete.

Tendel A variety of biaz (see), dyed blue

with indigo; made in Central Asia.

Tender Any fabric or yarn which hasbeen made weak during some of the

spinning or weaving operations.

Tender Fleeces A sort of wool separatedin wool sorting from others; they havea weak place in the fiber.

Teneriffe Lace Made in the Canary Is-

lands. The patterns consist of wheels.

Teneriffe Work Consists of makinglaces similar to the filet with star-

like patterns.

Tennessee Gold Dust Commercial varietyof early maturing, very prolific up-land cotton, same as King.

Tennessee Silk Commercial variety of

upland cotton, identical with Ozler.

Tennis Flannel Same as outing flannel.

Tennis Shirting Soft, twilled, cotton or

woolen shirting, made in fancystripes, often napped on the back.

Tennis Stripes Light, twilled woolendress goods with narrow, colored

stripes.

Tent Cloth Stout waterproof cottonduck or canvas, used for tents andawnings.

Tent Stitch or Petit Point In embroid-ery only half of the cross stitch, re-

peated.

Tentering One of the finishing processesduring which the cloth is stretchedto a required width and dried.

Tepis Coarse East Indian fabrics madeof cotton and silk waste with colored

stripes.

Terindans An East Indian fine cottonmuslin.

Terlice Fine drill made in France withcolored stripes.

Ternaux French shawls made in the 19th

century of cashmere wool.

Terra Nova Sort of raw cotton fromSicily.

TER 154 THR

Territory Name applied in the U. S. A.to wool raised west of the Mississippi.

Terry Cloth Is woven with two sets of

warp and one filling, one warp form-ing rows of loops on the face or backor on both sides, which are not cut.

It comes bleached, dyed, in colored

patterns or printed. The loop pilescan cover the entire cloth or formpatterns. It is made of cotton, linens,wool or silk and used for a greatvariety of purpose. When made of

cotton or linen it is also called Turk-ish toweling. The warp which formsthe loops is dressed on a separatewarp beam and is kept very slack. In

weaving, a number of .picks are let in,

quite far apart from each other, be-fore beaten up hence terry is desig-nated as 3, 4, 5 or 6 pick, accordingto the number of picks put in in onerow of loops. When the picks arebeaten up they will slide over the

stoutly stretched ground warp butthe friction is sufficient to pull the

pile warp with it, the section of that

warp between each pick, originallyfar apart, forming a loop on any orboth sides when beaten up. It comesin stripes, checks, plaids or broca'ledeffects in various colors. Used for

towels, bathrobes, etc.

A modern dress goods called eponseis made of cotton, wool or silk withloops only on one side.

Terry Pile Loop or uncut pile formed bya separate set of warp.

Terry Poplin 'Heavy corded silk and woolpoplin, alike on both sides.

Terry Velvet 1, uncut velvet; 2, finelyribbed all silk cloth used as trimmingin England; obsolete.

Teshike -Lightweight Japanese silk cloth,

treated against perspiration.

Tests A large variety of methods for de-

tecting the presence of certain fibres

by burning, chemical reaction, micro-scopic investigation, etc. Some of tho

important tests for each fibre will befound listed under the name of thefibre.

Tete de Boeuf An embroidery stitch,named after a fancied resemblance to

the head of a steer.

Tete de Negre 1, French name for a darkbrown color; 2, French woolen fab-ric with a knotted face, similar to

petersham.

Tewly or Tuly Silk thread of the 16thcentury, believed to have been red.

Texas General trade name of cottongrown in Texas and Oklahoma, thestaple measuring from seven-eighthsto one inch in length and varying in

quality according to the season.

Texas Storm Proof Commercial varietyof late maturing upland cotton, thestaple measuring 23-26 millimeters;the yield is 33-35 per cent.

Texas Wood Commercial variety of med-ium maturing upland cotton, thestaple measuring 22-25 millimeters;the yield is 34-36 per cent; also calledPeterkin.

Textiles 1, all spinnable fibres and theirwastes; 2, all laces, embroideries, rugsand woven, felted, knitted and cro-cheted fabrics.

Textilose A jute yarn substitute butcleaner and as durable as jute; it ismade of twisted paper strips withvarious short fibre waste imbedded.

Texture The appearance, number andcharacter of a textile fabric.

Thardwetch Persian silk brocade withhunting scenes as patterns.

Thebois An East Indian calico.

Thermaline A secret English process ofdyeing union lustre wool fabrics insolid colors.

Thibet An all-wool stout dress goods orcoating, well felted and given asmooth and soft face, showing an in-distinct twill. Often made with acotton warp. It comes usually insolid piece dye or in mixtures.

Thibet Shawl Made in France of wooland waste silk with various coloredpatterns woven into.

Thickset Obsolete name for cotton velvetmade with weft pile; used for work-men's clothes in England.

Thistle Used for raising the nap on thecloth.

Third Combing Wool taken from thelower part of back of the fleece.

Thlinket Blanket Made by the AlaskaIndians of the hair of the whitemountain goat; the warp containingwool and fibres from the cedar treebark twisted together.

Thorn Same as Spine (see).

Thread 1, is made of cotton, silk orlinen and contains three or morehard spun strands or reeled cocoonfilaments. It is given either a softor a glazed finish and is used for

basting and sewing. See sewing cot-ton and sewing silk; 2, unit of thejute and linen yarn measure, equal to

2V4 yards.

Thread Fabric Plain woven, very strong,heavy cotton fabrics, made with plywarp and single filling, the latter

placed very far apart from each other.The fabric is used for foundation fortires.

Threadbare A fabric which lost all its

nap and the foundation threads arevisible.

Thready Fabric finished to show everythread on the face.

Three-Quarter Goods Measuring 27inches in width.

Through and Through Wool fabrics, theface and back of which are madealike.

Thrown Silk Same as reeled silk, and is

made into organzine or tram.

Thrown Singles A single Bilk filament"thrown" with about 15 turns to theinch.

Throwing The process of twisting in

making organzine and tram.

THR 155 TOI

Thrum 1, the end of the warp which is

not woven but is cut away as waste;2, to thrum, obsolete, .means to knot,to weave, to knit; 3, obsolete for

coarse yarn.

Thunder and Lightning Same as Oxfordgray.

Tiaoyong Warp printed Chinese silk

plush.Tibisiri Strong leaf fiber, yielded by the

Ita palm in British Guiana; used for

hammocks, cordage, etc.

Ticking >A heavy, stout, stiff, all-cottonfabric, woven with a heavier warpthan lilling in a warp face twill. It

is almost always woven with blue,brown or other yarn dyed wanpstripes; used for mattresses and pil-low cases.

Tie See Bar.

Tiffany 1, very thin, semi- transparentFrench silk fabric, used for veils inthe 17th century in France and Eng-land; very thin, plain woven linenfabric, sized in the finish; .'!, plainwoven, very thin cotton fabric, six.ccl

and dyed, used for making artificialflowers.

Tiflis Khilim portieres made in theCaucasus.

Tiftik Trade term in Syria for mohair.

Tigrine Twilled and striped Frenchdress goods made of silk and worsted;obsolete.

Tihore Native name for a species of theNew Zealand flax (see), yielding thestrongest fi'bre for ropes.

Tikug Native Philippine name for asedge grass, used for mats.

Tillet A highly starched linen fabric,used formerly as stay for collars,etc.

Tinampipi A light and sheer fabric,made of hemp fibres in plain weaveby the natives of the Philippines.

Tinnevelly East Indian cotton, having asoft, elastic, moderately clean andfairly strong staple of a lustrouswhite color.

Tinnevelly Mat Very fine, bleached grassmats made in India.

Tinged Cotton Defective cotton havingupots or stains from coloring mat-ter.

Tinsel Very narrow, flat strips of gold,silver or other metal, used as coverfor core yarn or used directly forembroidery and brocades.

Tinsuti Cotton cloth made in India ofthree-ply warp and filling.

Tipiti Elastic, pleated fabric, woven ofvarious bast fibers in Brazil; usedfor sieves.

Tippy Certain wools, like some of themerinos, with a top heavy fiber.

Tiraz Very rich Arabian silk fabric withnames of Sultans and other promi-nent people interwoven; used as ma-terial to write on in medieval Eu-rope, when it was solid colored.

Tire Fabric Very strong and usuallyheavy, plain woven cotton fabric,made with single or ply warp anda usually single filing, this placedvery far apart from each other. Thebeet grade of cotton often Sea Islandis woven into tire fabrics, which areused for pneumatic tires.

Tire Duck See automobile tire cloth.

Tiretaine Serge usually made with linenor hemp warp and inferior woolen'filling, occasionally also of all wool.It is a strong, stout fabric, finishedeither pressed or with the nap raised;used for working dresses in France.

Tissu Plume An obsolete 'French cloak-ing, having goose or swansdown in-terwoven (without any twist) withthe tilling, into a plain woven cloth.

Tissue 1, name for cloths of gold, saidto have originated in the 15th cen-tury; 2, medieval silk damask withgold and silver threads interwoven;3, a very thin transparent silk veil-ing of organzine; 4, muslin or gauzefabrics, woven with an extra andmuch heavier and soft spun fillingwhich forme Jacquard designs or onlyspots. Between the interlacing withthe filling this extra weft is floatingand is subsequently cut away; usedfor window curtains.

Tissute iFrench serge, having eight endsand four picks in a repeat.

Tissuti See Amamee.Titan Braid 'A coarse, flat military braid

made of coarse long wool. Calledaleo Hercules braid.

Titre 'French term for the size of thesilk thread. It is expressed in deniersin Europe. The international denierbeing the weight of 10,000 meters ofsilk yarn. The titre in England andin the United States is expressed inthe weight of 1,000 yards in drams.

Tobacco Cloth Very light and open cot-ton fabric, made of short staple in

usually plain weave. It is used forwrapping tobacco, antiseptic gauze,printed draipery, flags, etc.

Tobine 'Striped wool fabric, made in Nor-wich, England, in the 17th century.

Tobines 'Stout, strong, twilled silk dreesgoods in France.

Tochirimen A cotton crepe made in Ja-pan.

Tocouy Linen fabric in Argentine.

Tocuyos^Gray cottoii sheetings, shirt-ings, etc., in South America.

Tocuyos Asargados Twilled gray cottongoods in Chile.

Tod Equal to 28 pounds; used for meas-uring wool and top in England.

Toile 1, French term for linen and cloth;2, in hand made laces the body of thepattern.

Toile d'Alsace 'Fine thin French linendress goods, made white or printed.

Toile d'Araigner Open work Frenchwoolen dress goods.

Toile Bleue Fine linen dyed light blue.

Toile a Bluteau Sort of bolting clothin France.

TOI

Toile a Chapeau In France highly glazed,and stiffened linen or cotton fabric;used for hat shapes.

Toile de Chnsse Damask table linen inFrance.

Toile Ciree^F'ine 'French oilcloth.

Toile de Coffre 'French household linenof good grade.

Toile Colbert Loosely woven cotton orwoolen canvas; used for embroidery.

Toile De Coton Light dress goods ofmixed cotton and linen with wovenstripes and printed patterns.

Toile Ecru Unbleached linen.

Toile d'Emballage Packing cloth.

Toile d'Embourrure Linen cloth used as

lining.

Toile de Frise A very fine Holland linen.

Toile de Halles Stout, unbleached linen.

Toile de Laine Very soft, light weight,French dress goods, made of merinowool, usually all black, in plain weave.

Toile de Lille 'Fine French table linen,

often made with colored stripes.

Toile de Mulquinerie In France name for

the finest lawns, cambrics, linen ba-

tiste, etc.

Toile du Nord 'French gingham, made in

checks with a smooth finish.

Toile d'Orange -Fine stout calico made in

(France.

Toile d'Ortie Sort of French batiste madeof nettle fiber.

Toile d'Ourville Unbleached French can-vas.

Toile de Paris Obsolete fine, light Frenchcotton dress fabric.

Toile de Religieuse French for nun'scloth.

Toile Satinee Very soft and thin 'Frenchcotton gloth, in plain color or .printed.

Toile de Saxe Plain woven French dress

goods, made with cotton warp andworsted filling.

Toile de Sion Medieval printed linen.

Toile de Sole Very light, plain wovensilk fabric; used for scarfs.

Toile a Tamis Blue buckram, with prom-inent stripes.

Toile a Veste A striped or checked, orsolid colored, plain woven cotton orlinen fabric, used for lining in France.

Toile de Vichy Light French linen dress

goods in pink and white or blue andwhite stripes.

Toile Victoria .All-worsted, light Frenchfabric of plain weave in the 19th

century.Toile a Voile-^Sail cloth.

Toile de Vosges Coarse, stout, plain wov-en cotton fabric, made in France for

the African markets.

Toilet Cloth Another name for quilte.

Toilet Quilt Lightweight, bleached Mar-seilles quilts (see).

Toilettes French term for unbleachedlawns and batiste.

Toilinet or Toilinette Waistcoat!ng madeof silk and cotton warp and woolenfilling, made plain or figured.

156 TOR

Toison Lybienne A heavy shrinking woolfrom the Lybian desert.

Toja Same as Bun ochra.

Tokhfil Two-ply silk thread, rereeledfrom spools by the natives in CentralAsia; used for filling.

Tokmak Rugs All-wool, very durablerugs made in Asia Minor, the pile istied in Ghiordes knot.

Tol A fine and narrow strip of cloth oftenwoven with complicated patterns.Made by the natives of the CarolineIslands and used as girdle, apron,etc.

Tolotzin White bast fiber, yielded by the(Heliocarpus tree in Mexico.

Tonder Lace 1, Danish bobbin lace origi-nated in the middle of the 17th cen-tury. Early specimens show Flandersinfluence with trolly (see) latter speci-mens have fine Malines foundationwith various running designs; 2,drawn work made of fine cambric.

Tonga Salempore A loosely woven, net-like cotton fabric of plain blue color,made with wide white headings and astiff finish; used for garments by thenatives in South Africa.

Tonje Manga Good quality raw cottongrown in the Shire Valley, South EastAfrica, and used by the natives. Men-tioned by Livingstone.

Tonquin White silk dress goods, orig-inally from Southern China.

Top The longer wool fibers which areseparated from the noil by combingand are used for worsted goods; 16pounds of sorted wool will yieldfrom 9 to 12 pounds of top,which is manufactured into yarnsaccording to the French draw-ing (see) or the English drawing(see) systems. The numbers for topsdo not always indicate the count ofthe yarn they can be spun into. Thenumbers of Bradford tops and theaverage yarns they will spin are: 28e

top spin 16s yarn, 32s spin 24e, 36s

spin 28s, 40s carded spin 32s, 40s pre-pared spin 36s, 46s s<j>in 40s, 50 spin44-4*8, 56s spin 48, 58s spin 50s, 60s

warp quality spun 4-8-SOs, 64s spin56s, 70s spin 80s, 80s spin 100s, 90s

spin 150s.

Toppings Dags (see) and tar brands, cutoff with shears by the wool sorter;used as clothing wool.

Toque An East Indian cotton muslin.

Toquilla The veins of the tender leavesof the Carludovica and other palms,which grow in South America. Thefibrous veins are boiled in water,bleached in the sun and with limejuice and are split into the requiredwidth for the making of genuine Pan-ama hats.

Torada Indian cotton muslin.

Torchon Simple and cheap bobbin lace

of loose, thick threads in coarse re-

seau ground in plain patterns, madein the 17th century; also called beg-gar's lace.

TOR 157 TRO

Tortin Low grade French wool carpets.

Tortola Variety of raw cotton from theWest Indies.

To't Term denoting that the velveteenwas cut slightly to the left and notin the middle of the floats.

Totora 'Strong leaf fiber, yielded by thecat-tail flag in Peru.

Tou iA tine woolen fabric from Thibet.

Toucha The best grade of Georgianwool, has a strong, elastic, whitestaple.

Tourangette Lightweight, slightly fulled,coarse French serge, made white orgray; obsolete.

Tourist Coating Heavy woolen tweedovercoating; used for outing coats.

Tow The coarse, entangled and shorterflax fiber, separated from the linen in

the hackle; used for tow yarn, up-holstering, binder twine, lining refrig-erator cars, etc.

Tow Cloth Heavy and coarse linen fab-rics, made on hand looms; obsolete.

Toweling Loosely woven, twilled narrowcotton or linen fabric 1

, woven of slacktwist yarn in long strips or in sep-arate pieces (connected sometimes bythe warp) ; used for towels.

Town Made Trade term for knit goodsmade by cutting out the different

parts and sewing them 'together. Isof British origin.

Toy 1, English woolen dress goods with'blue and black checks; 2, an 18thcentury fabric worn by women in

England made of all worsted or mixedwith silk.

Tracery 'Name for the raised work in

Honiton bobbin lace.

Tracing Braid Narrow military soutache.

Tracing Cloth Fine, plain woven cottonor linen cloth finished with heavydressing, but transparent; used byartists and architects for drawingor tracing.

Tram Loosely twisted siilk yarn con-taining any number of filaments,twisted two and a half times per inchto the right, the filaments not beingsubject to any self-twist; used forfilling. It is softer and weaker thanorgaiizine and is reeled of the lowergrades of silk.

Trama Name for weft in old Rome.Trame 'French for tram and for filling

in general.

Tramped Dornoch Scotch linen cloth.

Traveller's Grass In New South Wales,yielding a very strong fiber; used for

ropes.Travers French term for various weft

striped fabrics.

Traverse Warp Fabric See Milanese.

Trawl Twine Is composed of threestrands of white Manila hemp, about100 yards in a pound.

Treble Leviathan Stitch In embroiderya large, diagonal cross with uprightcross stitches in the center and be-tween the arms of the cross.

Treillis 1, French term for the netground as distinct from the patternin hand made laces; 2, coarse, stoutFrench canvas, made of unbleachedhemp; used for bags, trousers forfarmers, etc.

Trellis Work Embroidery made withcolored materials, the background be-ing cut away; the pattern is usuallya climbing vine.

Trentaine French dress goods made ofnatural wool, having 3,000 warp ends.

Tresquille Sort of greasy wool in theMarseilles market.

Tresse French for fancy braid.

Triblatti Medieval, two colored, rich silk

coating.

Tricala Sort of raw cotton in Macedo-nia.

Tricot 1, French for knitted fabric; 2,

all-wool, twilled fabric, made withwoolen warp and single filling, warpfaced, having fine lines running warp-wiee. Also made with cotton warpand woolen filling, weft face, the fine

lines running weftwise. Both aredyed in the piece; 3, an obsolete, fineFrench serge lining, made 20 incheswide.

Tricot de Berlin Plain, knitted fabric ofwhite cotton yarn; obsolete.

Tricot Ecossais Variety of crochetwork, made with stitches taking in

five loops at a time.

Tricot Flannel A heavy and thick flan-

nel, which is quite elastic.

Tricot de Laine Woolen suiting used for

sailors, etc., in France.

Tricotine Silk fabric made with blackfilling and small patterns.

Trina First name used in Italy for laces.

Trinidad Variety of raw cotton fromthe West Indies.

Trinkhalls East Indian silk fabrics em-broidered or brocaded with metalthreads.

Triomphante 'French silk dress goodshaving brocaded patterns over a rib-bed ground; obsolete.

Tripes Hie fabric in France originallyfrom Flanders, made with a wool pileand hemp warp and filling. It camein solid colors in stripes or was fin-ished with stamped (gouffre) effect;obsolete.

Tripes de Alfombra A woolen rug inMexico.

Triple Cloth .Made with three sets ofwarps and three sets of fillings,forming three different layers ofcloth, tacked together during thecourse of weaving.

Tritinum -Medieval silk fabric, made withthree-ply warp.

Trois-quarts-fournis A French dowlas.

Trolly Lace 'Term for bobbin laces hav-ing the patterns outlined with aheavy cord.

Tronadora Durable bast fiber, yielded bya species of abutMon plant in Mex-ico; used for ropes, nets, etc., by theIndians.

TRO 158 TUR

Tropical Cloth Very light men's wearfa'bric, used for summer clothes, madeusually with cotton warp and mohairfilling, showing various colors anddesigns.

Tropical Weight Suitings weighing from9 to 11 oz. per yard.

Trousering A large variety of woolenand worsted fabrics, also cotton

worsteds, used for trousers.

yrue Fibers are called true which havea uniform diameter.

Truffette Fine, narow, bleached Frenchlinen; used for handkerchiefs, shirts,

etc.

Truitt Late maturing commercial varie-

ty of American cotton, the staplemeasuring 22-25 millimeters, forminglarge bolls; the yield is 30-32 percent.

Trunk Length Medium long women'shosiery, reaching above the knee's,

but shorter than opera hose.

Truxillo Inferior Spanish wool.Tsatlee 'Raw silk reeled in northern

China, according to the primitive, na-tive methods, producing uneven andirregular yarn.

Tsin-Tseon A Chinese foulard.

Tsudzure-no-nishiki Japanese brocademade of strong silk warp and twisted

gold paper filling, made like gobelins.

Tsumugi (A narrow and very expensiveJapanese silk fabric made as follows:the silk is spun into a heavy yarn andwoven into a coarse cloth with cotton

warp. This cloth is run several timesthrough the vat and then buried in

the ground. After the cotton warphad rotted, the silk is rewoven into a

fabric, the spots which were left un-affected in the dye, forming a mottleddesign; used for kimonos.

Tsuni In Chinese markets a very heavilynapped wool flannel.

Tuanse A Chinese satin.

Tuareg Wool rugs made in Morocco.

Tub In connection with the name of a

fabric (tub silk), means washable.

Tubular Fabrics knitted or woven, madeIn the form of seamless tubes, as in

hose, knitted neckwear, pillow cases,etc.

Tuck Lightweight cotton or silk fabric,

made with pleats running from selvageto selvage and formed with a separatawarp and a filling usually heavier thanthat used for the ground weave; usedfor shirts, waists, etc.

Tuck Knitting Framework knitting, in

which a number of loops are accumu-lated on a needle, thus forming the

design.

Tuckeries East Indian cotton fabric.

Tucum Fine and very strong flber yield-ed by the leaves of the Astrocaryumtucuma, a palm in Brazil; used for

ropes, baskets, hats, hammocks, etc.

Tuf^Coarse, French carpet, made of

strong hemp tow warp and cow hair

'filling.

Tufftaffeta Very heavy and stout taffeta,with velvet dots or figures; obsolete.

Tufts Figured and printed English cottonvelvets; obsolete.

Tukes 16th century English woolen fab-ric, similar to buckram.

Tulle Machine made net of silk or cot-ton; used either as it is for millineryor dress trimming or further embroid-ered, forming lace. The meshes aresmall and either round or with regularor irregular sides and corners.

Tulle Crinoline 'Same as pleated tulle,made with gradually increasing mesh-es, which force the tulle into pleats.

Tulle Grec 'French tulle made with mesh-es larger than in ordinary tulle.

Tuly See Tewly.

Tungchow A better grade of Chinese rawcotton.

Tunis Crochet A very easily executedcrochet, made only in straight workwith single ribs.

Tup Yorkshire name for male sheep.Turbehlik Turkish name for Oriental

rugs, intended to be hung over graves;the designs are always tree and flow-er patterns.

Turfani Very line wool from Thibet; usedfor rugs, etc.

Turk Satin See Satin Turc.

Turka 'Brown or white colored soft fiber

yielded by the bark of the apocyumvenetum, grown in Asia and southernEurope; used for twine, baggings, etc.

Turkey Red 1, a fast and bright scarlet

dye, yielded by the madder and form-erly extensively used on wool and cot-ton preceded by various elaborateprocesses of mordanting. The modernTurkey red, a fast and brilliant scar-let, is a synthetic dye; 2. plain wovenor twilled cotton fabric of variousgrade, dyed with Turkey red; used for

dresses, trimmings, etc.

Turkey Red Bleach A bleaching processto which cotton fabrics to be dyedwith Turkey red are subject. Thegoods are singed, shorn, washed,treated with acids and washed, re-

sulting in a pale cream color.

Turkins A 16th century woolen fabric in

England.Turkish Knot Used in russ; it is formed

by the yarn being twisted about thewarp threads, two ends of the pilealternating with every two threadsof the warp. See Ghiordes knot.

Turkish Toweling Cotton or linen fab-ric having loop piles formed by a sep-arate set of warps. Is bleached. Usedfor towels, bath robes, etc. See un-der terry cloth.

Turkish Yarn Another name for mohairyarn.

Turkman Rugs See Genghis rugs.

TurkomanMade with silk or cotton warpand thick chenille filling; used for

drapery.

Turmeric A fugitive direct yellow dyeyielded by the roots of the curcumatinctoria in India and China.

TUR 159 UMR

Turquoise 1, worsted serge dress fabric,made in colored checks; 2, Frenchsatin made with silk stripes on cot-ton ground; obsolete; 3, lightweightFrench wool dress goods of great va-riety, made with fine, two-ply warpand single, slack twist filling; 4, smallwarp ribbed silk lining.

Turui Tough bast fibre, obtained fromthe Paullinia grandiflora in Peru;used for ropes and cords.

Tuskin A woolen fabric made in Eng-land under Edward VI, believed to

have been of blue or gray color.

Tussah Silks 1, general term for wildsilks of India and China. They are

usually gray or brownish, strongerand coarser than mulberry silk andhave an uneven diameter. The co-

coons are often torn up for wastesilk which is used for pile fabric andpongee; 2, East Indian plain wovensilk dross goods, made of brownishcolored wild silk.

Tussar, Tussoi iSee Tussah.

Tussores (Narrow, line cotton dress goodsmade usually of mercerized cotton,

with filling cords. The number of

warp ends is twice as much as thatof the filling, the latter being the

coarser; used for dresses in the

Philippines.

Twanse Stout Chinese silk satin, fin-

ished with little gloss. Comes in solid

colors or patterns.

Tweed Originally an all-wool, homespunand slightly felted heavy Scotch wool-en or worsted in blue, black, gray andother solid colors, also in checks madeof Scotch cheviot wools. Later

Baxony wool was also used. The woolis dyed before spinning. The patternsof the tweed are mostly checks, twills

and herringbone. The warp is

usually two-ply and the filling single,

lighter than the warp.Tweel Same as Twill.

Twill 1, one of the principal weaves,with a large number of derivationsand combinations, in which the inter-

section of the threads forms lines

running to the right or the left, diag-onally across the fabric, the degree of

the twill lines depending on the twill

itself, on the relative size of the warpand weft and on the number of

threads of each set of yarns withina given space. Besides these addi-tional effects are obtained in the pat-tern by introducing various twistsand sizes in yarns.

Instead of passing over and undereach other alternately, as in the plainweave (see), in the twill the threadsare raised over or depressed under morethan one thread. For this purpose at

least three threads are needed, form-ing the three-harness or prunellatwill. Other twills, with four har-

nesses, are called the swansdown,shalloon and crow (see). Often twoor more varieties of twills are beingcombined for fancy effects. Besidesornamentation *will weaves are used

to impart bulk or strength to the fab-

ric; 2, in Germany and Austria a

closely woven, twilled (2-1) cottonfabric, made of fine yarn; used for

underwear.Twill Shawl Thin, white, diagonal cotton

cloth, occasionally with black andwhite or red and white borders; usedas head covering in Asia Minor.

Twine Made of cotton or hemp; often

glazed; the yarns are doubled first

then spun together with a twist oppo-site the first one.

Twine Cloth English cotton shirting fin-

ished to imitate linen.

Twist 1, same as warp; 2, English termfor cotton yarn (mule twist).

Twist Fabric A plain knitted fabric, eachloop being twisted as it is formed.

Twist Stitch Same as cord stitch.

Twist on Twist^English mill parlance for

yarns with especially elastic proper-ties, the twist of the two-fold beingthe same as the twist of the singleyarn.

Twit Imperfection in rovings, consistingof thin places, causing uneven yarn.

Twitched Yarn Fancy yarns made withcolored nubs or flocks; name obsolete.

Twitty Unevenly spun yarn.

Two Faced See Double Faced.

Twofold In England name for two-plyyarns.

Tyrian Purple Red dyestuff, yielded byseveral species of the murex, a snail in

the Mediterranean; used extensivelyand highly prized by the ancient peo-iple.

Tyrlind Striped French dress goods, madewith silk warp and heavy schappe fill-

ing, forming cross ribs.

Tyrol ienne Fine French dress goods madewith fine silk warp and worsted fill-

ing, forming pronounced cords; obso-lete.

u

Uki Strong, fibrous grass in Hawaii;used for cords.

Ulang In the Chines markets stoutstrong worsted satins.

UlsterLoosely woven woolen overcoat-ing, made of right hand twist warpand left twist filling, usually of lowgrade wool, mixed with shoddy. It

comes in piece dyes or in mixtures.It is finished with a long nap whichis pressed down.

Umbrella Gingham Plain or twilledcolon fabric in black oir other solid

colors, used for cheap umbrellas.

Umritzur An Indian cashmere with azi'g-zag chevron pattern, very soft andwarm.

UNB 160 VAN

Unbleached Cotton and linen fabrics, leftin the natural "gray" state.

Uncut Velvet Left with the uncut loop-pile.

Underwriter's Bale See Bessonette.

Undyed Yarns and fabrics left in theirnatural color, without any additionof artificial dyeing.

Unfinished Woolens which are not fulledand sheared but have a nap; worstedswhich have been pressed or shorna little, but otherwise are left in thecondition as when taken from theloom.

Ungummed Silk -Which has the naturalgum removed by boiling in solutionof soap.

Uni 'French for single colored or plaineffect.

Uni Colored Fabric died in one color.Uniform Cloths Woolen and worsted

fabrics intended for uniforms.

Unions 1, 'Fabrics having the warp and"weft of different fibers; 2, plain wovenor twilled fabric made with cottonwarp and linen filling, bleached.Used for outing dresses, drapery,lining, etc.; 3, in Yorkshire a dressface fabric, made with cotton warpand woolen filling.

Union Braid 'Worsted or mohair braid,made of more than two cords.

Union Carpets In England double car-pets with pile on both sides; held to-

gether by a binder filling.

Union Cassimere 'Soft, fulled fabric,made with cotton warp and woolenfilling; has checks or stripes; usedfor men's cheap clothing.

Union Cloth A napped shoddy fabric,made with cotton warp in England.

Union Cord Stout, round cord made ofcotton and linen; used for lacing.

Union Damask Made with cotton or lin-

en warp and worsted filling, wovenwith satin 'figures over satin ground;used for hangings, etc.

Union Dyes A number of colors whichhave affinity both for vegetable andanimal fibres and can be used as di-

rect dyes on union fabrics.

Union LinenMade with cotton warp andlinen filling.

Union Silk A fabric made usually withcotton warp and silk filling; used asumbrella cloth.

Union Yarn 'Made of a mixture of cottonand wool.

Unwashed 'Wool in the grease.

Upena Native Hawaiian name for birdand fish nets.

Upland Raw cotton, constituting thebulk of the American crop; it growsIn the inland cotton States, the liber

averaging from % to an inch in

length and has a bright creamy color.

Uppain Variety of raw cotton fromSouthern India. The staple is goodand long.

Urdiga.^Fine, short staple, silky wool ofMorocco.

Urmak Stout and coarse East Indianfabric, made of camel hair.

Urquhart A Highland tartan, composedas follows: Dark green stripe, splitin the center by a very narrow blackstripe; black stripe, less than onethird of the green; dark blue stripe,wider than the green, split by a redstripe in the center (one-sixth thewidth of the blue) and by a pairof very fine black lines near eachedge.

Uruca Strong bast fibre obtained fromthe Arnatto tree in Brazil; used forcordage.

Ushui Variety of raw cotton from Mace-donia.

Uso-Sabugia Variety of raw cotton fromAnatolia.

Utariya (Northern variety of the Indianjutes; it is t'he best commercial va-riety, being long, strong and of alight color but somewhat harsh.

Utrecht Velvet Mohair plush with warppile, used for upholstery, having pat-terns produced by the inclination ofthe pile at different angles, which is

produced by pressing.

Uzel Good grade of French linen.

Vacona 'Tough leaf fibre, yielded by the

ipamdanus utilis in Mauritius; usedfor bags.

Valance^Damask fabric for upholstery,made of silk, often mixed with wool;obsolete.

Valencia or Valentia 1, variety of rawcotton from Colombia; 2, Strong,stout, warp striped fabric, made withcotton warp and worsted filling; usedfor livery; 3, light-weight twilled Eng-lish dress goods and suiting, made of

woolen yarns, also mixed with silk; a

heavy English and French waistcoat-ing made of cotton thread warp andwoolen and silk filling.

Valenciennes 'Bobbin lace made entire-

ly flat with natural or conventional-ized flowers or trailing patterns overa very fine mesh ground often com-posed of little circles. The so-called"vraie Valenciennes" was made in

the town of Valence while the "fausseValenciennes" elsewhere.

Vanduara Silk Very lustrous artificial

tlibre made of gelatin; see Artificial

Silk.

Vandyke A pointed scallop in laces andembroideries.

Vandyke Stitch In embroidery a raised

couching in Vandyke points.

Vanes Stuffed quilts made in France of

pique or calico.

VAP 161 VEL

Vapeur A very fine and loosely wovenFrench cotton muslin.

Varinas Variety of raw cotton fromColombia, white or yellowish, strongfiber, not very glossy.

Vasquine Thick, spongy falbric, made ofChe fibers extracted from the pineneedles.

Vegetable Down See Bomibax cotton.

Vegetable Flannel A coarse, hygieniccloth, made from the fibers of thepine needles.

Vegetable Horsehair Fibers obtainedfrom various palm leaves; used assubstitute for horsehair.

Vegetable Silk 1, trade term for artifi-cial silk; 2, fibers of various plants,having a silky gloss, but usually notthe required strength; used as silksi bstitute or for stuffing.

Vegetable Wool Fiber obtained from thepiae cones; when mixed with woolit is used for underwear.

Veiled Wool Has the fibers of the vari-ous staples stuck to each other.

Veiling Great variety of cotton or silknets; used for veils.

Vein The open place in a cloth, causedby a broken warp.

Vel line "French woolen winter coating;has a curl pile surface.

Velour 1, name for flannelette in Rou-imania; 2, large variety of soft, stoutwoolen with raised and shorn nap;used for coats, suits and dresses.

Velours French for velvet.

Velours Albigeois Dress fabric havingnarrow velvet stripes.

Velours d'Angleterre Silk weft pilevelvet.

Velours Biseautes Velvet galloon withhigher pile on one edge than on theother.

Velours Bombes French silk velvet, con-sisting of alternate stripes of cultand uncut velvet

Velours Broche 'Brocaded velvet.

Velours Cameleon Changeable velvet,made with two sets of pile warps,each of a different color.

Velours Chine Silk velvet, the pile -warpof wh.ch is printed with pictures, etc.,

before weaving.Velours Cisele French for velvet upon

velvet; originally -made with two dif-ferent rods, now the uniform deeppile velvet is subjected to heavypressure, laying down the pile in cer-tain parts of the fabric. The stand-ing pile is shorn short and thepressed-down pile is steamed andbrushed up.

Velours Couche A velvet woven with astraight silk pile, which in the finish-

ing process is crushed or laid down;used for coats, trimmings and drapery.

Velours a Deux Polls French term forvelvet with a pile made of two-plyyarn.

Velours Ecrase Silk velvet having highlyfinished, crushed pile, lying in differentdirections.

Velours Epingle 'Lightweight, solid col-ored French silk velvet.

Velours Figure Figured velvet.

Velours Francais Obsolete French velvet,made with two sets of silk warp of dif-ferent colors, one being single yarnand the other three-ply yarn. Thereare also two sets of different coloredboiled off silk filling.

Velours Frappe Velvet having raised pat-terns produced by pressing the pilewith heated cylinders.

Velours Frise Uni Lightweight Frenchsilk velvet with single, double or triple

pile; used for dresses, millinery, etc.

comes in solid colors.

Velours Gandin Silk velvet over satinfoundation; used for drapery, etc.

Velours de Genes Usually all-silk velvet,the warp, filling and pile made of or-

ganzine.

Velours Glace A velvet having the pile

slighthly dressed -with size and presseddown in different directions, produc-ing a frosted effect.

Velours Gourgouron^Rich silk vesting,

having silk pile stripes alternatingwith a rep foundation; obsolete.

Velours Gregoire French velvet of thefirst part of the 19th century, showingpictures woven in pile.

Velours de Gueux Velvet made of a sin-

gle set of linen or heavy cotton warpand fine cotton fllling, forming thepile.

Velours de Hollande Cut velvet originallymade of all silk, with good organzinewarp and filling.

Velours d'ltalie CrossriWbed fabric madeof silk and cotton, the rilbs afternatingwith two fine fillings.

Velours Miroii Glossy silk velvet with acrushed 'pile.

Velours du Nord Silk velvet having alonger pile than velvet but shorterthan plush.

Velours OmbreWarp pile velvets, usuallyribbons, made in ombrs effects.

Velours d'Oran A warp pile French vel-

vet, both sets of warp containing endsranging from single yarns to five-plyyarns, arranged in natural and re-versed order several time the entirewidth of the fabric. The two sets ofwarps are placed in such a mannerthat the five-ply yarn in one set cor-responds to the single yarn in theother, and vice versa.

Velours Ottoman 'French silk falbris madewith two sets of warp, one forming thefoundation in plain weave, the otherforming floats, half of the warp float-

ing on the face, the other half on theback.

VEL 162 VEN

Velours Ras French for uncut velvet.

Velours Rayes Striped velvet.

Velours a la Reine Crossribbed silk

fabric, made with one set of wrapand two sets of fillings, the ribs al-

ternating with two picks of the liner

filling.

Velours Russe Velvet dress fabric made-with varicolored diagonal cords.

Velours Sculpte Velvet having patternsformed with the pile shorn differentlengths; see velours cisele.

Velours Simule Obsolete term for aplain woven fabric made with silk

warp and cotton filling. Both thewarp and the weft contain threads ofvarious thickness.

Velours Travers Half wool dress goodsvelvet with weft stripes.

Velours Turc French silk velvet withcurled pile, similar to the cachemire;obsolete.

Veloute French for napped effect inwoolen and other fabrics.

Veloutine French dress fabric, madewith thick woolen warp, formingcords and soft merino filling; finishedwith a nap.

Velure Same as velours (see).

Velutine A short pile velveteen, the backsized in the finished.

Velutum Medieval Latin name for vel-vets.

Velveret Usually wide cotton velvetsmade to imitate silk, often havingribs or finished with printed designs.The filling usually crosses two warpsat once. Made in England, UnitedStates, etc.

Velvet A cut pile fabric, the pile ofwhich originally was made of silk,now also of wool or mohair. The pileis shorter than that of the plush(see) and can be formed by an extrawarp or the filling (for descriptionsee pile fabrics).

Plain velvet has a pile of evendepth covering the entire ground.The pile on pile, or double pile, hasthe ground covered with a short pilewhile the patterns are formed of alonger pile. This velvet is eithermade (if it is a warp pile fabric), byusing rods of various thickness, thusproducing the difference in the depthof the pile in the process of weaving.Or again the velvet is woven plainwith the deep pile all over. In thefinishing process the patterns arepressed in under great pressure, flat-

tening out part of the pile. The re-mainder of the pile, which standserect, is shorn shorter, whereuponthe pressed down pile is brushed upagain, and as it is now longer thanthe shorn pile, it forms the patternstanding out from the ground pile.Brocaded velvet has velvet pattern

on a satin, lame or other foundationor vice versa. In the costliest piecesit is made on the Jacquard loom. Amuch cheaper process of the lateryears calls for a velvet with silk pileon cotton ground or vice versa. The

pattern is engraved on a copper rollerand is printed with a chemical whichwill destroy the pile only but not theground weave on the back of thefabric. The velvet is next brushed,which process will remove that partof the pile which was touched andpartly destroyed by the chemicals,leaving a very sharply defined pat-term formed by the pile.The mirror velvet has the pile

pressed down in one direction, re-

sulting in a very high gloss.Velvet pictures, invented by Greg-

oire, in Lyons, are colored picturssformed by the pile of the velvet. Itis made as follows: Before weav-ing the pile warp is printed with thepicture with due consideration of thevery large take-up. The velvet is thenwoven in the plain warp pile velvetprinciple, cut, brushed and shorn.Velvet is usually woven in the gray

and dyed or printed according to therequirements of the current fashion.In the dyeing fancy effects are ob-tained by employing cross or resist

dyeing or by dyeing the velvet plainand destroying part of the color onthe pile by some chemical. Velvet is

printed either on the pile or on thereverse side, the latter employed onchiffon velvets.The cheaper grades of velvets are

woven in two or three widths andsplit afterwards, or face to face, theyarn forming the pile traveling fromone fabric to the other and is cut be-tween the two fabrics.

Velvet Cloth Embroidery fabric, madeplain, and given a smooth glossy sur-face in the finish. ,

Velvet Cords 'See hollow cut.

Velvet Finish Consists in heavily nap-ping woolen fabrics; the nap is shornor left as it is.

Velvet Rug^Carpets and rugs woven onthe same principle as warp pile vel-vets.

Velvet Satin A silk fabric made withpatterns in pile over a satin founda-tion.

Velvet Stitch See raised stitch.

Velveteen lAll-cotton pile fabric wovenwith very short pile; the cheapestgrades are made with one warp andone filling with a weft pile. It is

either dyed in the piece, printed orwoven in colors and patterns. Usedfor dresses, trousers, upholstery, etc.

It is of English origin, originally be-ing a twilled cotton with raised pile.

Venetian 1, medium or light weightsoft and fulled, warp face fine wool-en fabric, made of single warp andfilling in fine diagonal or warp satinweave. Used for dresses, skirts.overcoats. It comes In piece dyesor mixture effects. Used for coats,suits, dresses, linings, etc.; 2, a blacklinen fabric, made in satin weave,used for lining; 3, in England a wideheavy tape used for binding uphol-stery and for Venetian blinds; 4, ob-solete fabric made with cotton warpand worsted filling face, used for lin-

ings.

VEN 163 VOI

Venetian Carpet Originally made withvarious colored worsted warp andsome cheap filling which was hidden,the pattern being on both sides in

warp stripes; of English origin.

Venetian Cloth Same as Italian cloth.

Venetian Crepe Is made with raw silk

warp and very coarse tilling, tworight hand twist and two left handtwist alternately; used for mourn-ing.

Venetian Embroidery On batiste foun-dation, the patterns are outlined with'buttonhole stitches, the ground is cut

away and the parts connected withbars.

Venetienne 1, French dress goods madeof flne Italian (yellow) silk withribbed weave like gros de Tours, andprinted or left in one color; 2,

French woolen dress goods, finishedwith slight fulling.

Venise Very fine damask table linenmade in Holland and France; the

pattern consists of large flowers.

Venise Gold Medieval thread made witha flat gold strip wound around a linencore.

Venitien Xarrow French runners, madein stripes; obsolete.

Verandol In Cuba a pure linen or cottonmixed cloth, white or beige. Thewhite is used as dress goods, the beigeas bed cover.

Verdours A medieval fabric in England,u.st-d for tapestry and thought to beof green color.

Vermont 'Australian term for woolyielded in Australia by sheep whichdescended from the merinos origin-ally imported into the United States.

Verona Serge 'Lightweight serge, madeof mohair and cotton or worsted andcotton in mixture effect.

Vervise A woolen fabric, made in Eng-land under Edward VI, believed tohave been of blue or gray color.

Vesset A kind of worsted fabric, usedin medieval England.

Vicanere 'Coarse wool from East India.

Vichy 1, ginghams in Chile, Bolivia andSpain, often in large checks andplaids, and stiffly -finished; 2, fine

ginghams in Servia; 3, general termin Turkey for cheap ginghams andyarn dyed cotton plaids, usuallyhaving a stiff, starchy finish.

Vick A now obsolete commercial varietyof upland cotton, originated fromMexican seed.

Victoria 1, a French silk dress goods witha high finish, made with ply warpand with 8 ends and 8 fillings in arepeat; 2, twilled printed Englishcotton fabric; 3, a ribbed Englishsilk dress fabric.

Victoria Crepe English, all-cotton crepeof lustrous finish.

Victoria Lawn Plain and very closelywoven heavy English lawn, about 38inches wide, having as high as 100by 175 ends in a square inch. Comeswhite or printed. Used for dresses,the lighter weights for underwear.

Victoria Shawl French shawl, made onthe Jacquard loom with four em-broidered borders and warp fringesat both ends; obsolete.

Vicuna 1, very long, soft brownish hairyielded by the South American vicunagoat; 2, trade name for yarn com-posed of coarse wool and cotton orall-cotton finished in imitation ofwoolen yarn; 3, a very fine, twilleddress fabric, finished with a soft nap,originally made of genuine vicunawool; 4, imitation of the above, madeof soft wool, often mixed with cot-

ton, slightly fulled and napped; usedfor men's suits and overcoats. Seealso vigogne yarn.

Vienna Cross Same as Persian crossstitch.

Vigans 'Coarse French woolen.

Vigogne French for Vicuna.

Vigogne Yarn 1, originally made of amixture of cotton and wool, of vary-ing proportions (in Europe 20 percent cotton, 80 per cent wool), usedfor cheap hosiery, etc.; 2, in Germany,Russia and Italy yarn made of all

cotton and cotton waste, finished tolook like wool.

Vigognia 'Fine English knitting yarnmade of wool mixed with various veg-etable fibers.

Vigoureux 1, worsted yarn, which wasprinted in the sliver by a fluted roll,

usually only in one color; 2, Frenchtwilled diress goods made of v. yarn.

Vimoutiers 'Coarse and loosely wovenFrench unbleached linen, sometimesdyed yellow.

Virgin Wool Any wool which was not

previously manufactured into fabric.

Virginie 1, French silk fabric, made In

an eight-leaf twill weave; 2, six or

eight-leaf figured serge made withsingle or ply warp.

Viscelline Trade name for a horsehairsubstitute, made by running a cotton

yarn through a bath of cellulose andthen dyeing it.

Viscose See artificial silk.

Vitrees Several grades of bleachedFrench household linen and hempsail cloths.

Vitry Light French unbleached linen.

Viyella Lightweight, twilled fabric in

England, made of mixture of cot-ton and wool, used for underclothing.

Vladimir English cassimere, made of fine

wool and 'finished with a nap.

Voile A plain woven, light, sheer andclear fabric, made of silk, wool or

cotton, the last two being hard spunand usually two-ply; cotton yarn is

often gassed. The construction ia

very low. Used for dresses.

Voile Marquisette A very sheer silk fab-ric, woven in leno weave of fine

thread.

VOI 164 WAT

Voilette French machine-made lace, hav-ing a very fine mesh ground. Alongthe edge it is embroidered with lightflower design while the body is

trimmed 'with dotted powdering orfine trailing lines.

Voiron Fine French household linen ofvarious grades.

Voivoi A species of the Pandanus in

Fiji; used by the natives for the finest

clothing mats.Volant 'Lace flouncing.

Volo Wool >Long and coarse wool, grownin Greece, used for worsteds.

Vourine (Fine grade of Persian silk.

Vraio Reseau In real laces the net groundwhich was made either by the needleor with the bobbins.

Vyrizuvania An all-white hand embroid-ery over linen, made by the peasantsin Ukraine, Russia.

w

Waban 'Netting made of cord or thickthread with large mesh; used for in-terior drapery.

Wadding 1, sheet of carded cotton, usedfor quilts, etc.; 2, waste silk, obtainedfrom the inner smooth skin of thecocoon, left over after the reeling.

Wadmoll A thick, coarse fulled woolen;used for men's cheap suits; absolete.

Wagria Variety of raw cotton fromKathiawar, India. The staple is quitecoarse.

Waldemar A good quality of velveteen.

Wale A diagonal raised line formed bya twill weave on the face of the fab-ric, usually woolens and worsteds.

Walking Same as felting.

Walshe Cottones 16th century Englishflannel made 32 ells long, % yardwide, a piece weighing 46 Ibs.

Warang Bast Strong bast fiber, yieldedby the Kydia calycina in India; usedfor ropes.

Warangul Indian knotted rugs; antiqueexamples are very fine in weave anddesign.

Warnerized Medicated stuffs in England,making them mildew, water and mothproof.

Warp The set of yarn found in everyfalbric woven on the loom and run-ning parallel with the selvage, orlengthwise in the fabric, and inter-woven with the weft, the two formingthe various weaves according to themethods of intersection. The warp is

stretched in parallel lines in the loomand certain parts of it are alternatelyraised and depressed at every pick,allowing the shuttle to pass betweenwith the weft. The warp can be ofthe same size as the weft or of higher

or lower; as a rule, however, it is

stronger and often it is placed closertogether than the weft. The standardtwist for warp is about 4% times thesquare root of the yarn size. Cottonwarp, as a rule, is twisted to the right,and worsted warp yarn to the left.

Warp is called, also, chain or web.

Warp Knitting See knitting.

Warp Pile Fabrics woven in such amanner that certain of the warpthreads form the pile.

Warp Print Same as chine.

Warp Ribbed Fabrics having ribs orcords running in the direction of thewarp.

Warp Stitch In embroidery, a stitch bywhich warp threads are drawn to-

gether to form a pattern after someof the weft threads have been re-moved.

Wash Blonde Light colored or white, fine,

washable cotton net; used for rufflesand other trimmings.

Wash Goods See washable.

Wash Whites See Devonshire kersey.

Washable Faibrics which can be washedwithout affecting the color or finish.

Washer Obsolete for kersey; coarse Eng-lish woolen; see also Devonshirekersey.

Waste Fibers which form the refuse dur-ing the various processes of carding,spinning, weaving and 'finishing andwhich are being utilized in some in-ferior goods.

Wasty A heavy shrinking wool, owing to

the large percentage of grease anddirt it contains.

Waterglass Used in weighting silk.

Waterlaid Rope In nautics a heavy ropetwisted of three strands, each, havingthree plies; used for hawsers and towlines.

Watered Same as moire.

Watermark Spots left on silks and wool-ens by drops of water.

Waterproof A very stout twilled woolenfabric, made in England; used for

raincoats, etc.

Waterproofing Various processes to ren-der textile fabrics impermeable to

water, although its porousness is often

preserved. Some of the processes are:

1, treating the fabric with rubber,paraffin, oil. wax, etc.; 2, covering thefabric with a copper solution of cellu-

lose and precipitating part of the cel-

lulose, this process is only for cottonfabrics; 3, treating the falbric withsome albuminous material and thenwith a metallic salt; 4, treating thefabric with soluble metallic salts,which are later changed into insolu-ble salts.

Waterproof fabrics are used for

raincoats, sailors' and fishermen's gar-ments, tents, etc.

Watt Silk Very low grade) irregularwaste silk.

WAT 165 WHI

Wattelin In Austria a cotton knittedfabric with a loosely spun woolenyarn on the face, which is napped andfelted. It is very soft and spongy;used for winter lining.

Waulking Name for the fulling of home-spuns, by walking on them, in Scot-land.

Wax Cloth Cotton or silk made imper-meable by paraffin; also an oilcloth;used for floor covering in England.

Weardale Carpet Woolen fabric, used ascrumb cloth and placed over carpetsfor their protection.

Weave The effect farmed by the inter-section of the warp and weft in theplain, twilled and figure, satin, pile,fabric. The principal weaves are:leno and lappet and swivel (see each).

Web 1, name for the sliver before it iscondensed into a rope-like mass offibers; 2, very strong, narrow, wovencotton, wool or silk fabric, used forbelts, suspenders, etc. It is madeelastic, having rubber thread warpsor non-elastic.

Weft Is one of the principal sets of yarn,found in every woven fabric. It runscrosswise in the falbric, binding thewarp ends together, the two formingthe different weaves according to themanner of interlacing. While it usual-ly reaches from selvage to selvageoften it extends only a part of thisdistance, like in tapestries, etc., form-ing figures. The weft is often of lowercount and slacker twist than thewarp; it is also called woof, filling,

pick and shoot.

Weft PileFabrics woven in a way thatcertain of the weft yarns form thepile.

Weighting The process of charging silk,wool or cotton with various foreignmatters, to increase the weight andthe scroop. The strength and durabil-ity of the filber is often greatly re-duced by it.

The most customary weighting ofsilk is carried out as follows: Afterthe silk is boiled out it is treated ina bath of tin dissolved in dilutedhydrochloric acid. The silk is thenrinsed and treated in a bath of phos-phate of soda, again washed out andthe tin bath repeated successively.This is weighting the silk for deli-cate colors although this weightingprocess is the most customary. Theweighting is sometimes several timesthe weight of the silk itself. Besidesthis the oil used in silk throwing willadd to the weight of the silk.

Dyed silk is weighted also in steep-ing it in rice water or solution oflump sugar. "Silk is weighted forcolor with alumina, antimony, lead,glue and sugar and most usually withtin; for black with tin, silicia andmostly through the iron-gamblerprocess.Worsteds are weighted either by

chemicals increasing directly theweight of the fabric, as sugar oflead, phosphate of tin, tannates of

iron, silicate of soda, glauber andEpsom salts, size, etc., or they aretreated with highly hygroscopicchemicals, as glycerine, chlorides ofzinc, magnesium, etc., which abstractwater from the atmosphere and thusincrease the weight of the fabric.Weighted silk 'becomes "rotten" un-

der the influence of the air and thesunlight. As a protection againstthis formaldehyde bisulphite is usedfor treating weighted silk.

Cotton fabrics are usually weightedwith the aid of size.

Welborn Pet Early maturing commer-cial variety of upland cotton, the sta-ple measuring 22-25 millimeters,forming clustered bolls; the yieldis 31-32 per cent.

Well Covered Cloth showing a faultlessface.

Wellington iStout English army drill;

obsolete; also a stout Englishwaterproofed woolen overcoating.

Welsh Flannel and English Flanneloriginally made in bluish shade witha broad gray selvage with worstedwarp and woolen filling, loosely wo-ven and sligthly fulled. Later madeof woolen or cotton warp.

Welt 1, name for pique weaves, produc-ing continuous warp or weft ribswith narrow dividing runs between;2, the reinforced edged on top of hos-iery.

Welting Cord A narrow flat braid with acord forming one edge; used forbinding the edges of garments.

Western Dozens-See Tavestock.Wether Wool 1, a term in England,

meaning all fleeces cut from sheepafter the hogget wool was removed;2, in Australia the wool shorn fromcastrated sheep after the hoggetfleece was removed.

Whartern Obsolete English measure forwool yarn, usually meant six poundsof slivers or slubbing.

Wheatear Stitch An embroidery stitchmade with chain stitch completedwith side (branches in imitation ofwheat.

Wheel Stitch 'In embroidery a stitch im-itating spider-web.

Whip The extra warp thread whichforms the figures in lappet weaving.It is not interwoven with the fabricitself, except at the end of each run.

Whipcord 1, a strong whipcord, madeusually of six two-ply, hardenedstrands, measuring from six to tenleas each; 2, a usually solid coloredworsted dress goods with diagonalround cords on the face. The ribsare sometimes of a different colorfrom the foundation and are madeby a raised twill, formed by floatingthe two-ply warp over several of thesingle fillings.

Whip Thread The thread which is

wound around another in the gauzaweave.

White Calico Name of bleached cottonshirting In South Africa.

1

WHI 166 WIR

White Dutch Trade term for flax retted

mostly in the Scheldt, Holland; has

pale color.

White Egyptian Cotton having a good,long and fairly strong staple of light

golden or pearly white color; con-tains considerable broken leaf.

White Goods Bleached cotton and linen

fabrics.

White Rope Un tarred cordage used onvessels.

Whiting In England same as bleaching.

Whitney 1, stout, coarse woolen used for

men's wear (obsolete); 2, soft wool-en overcoating, the long face nap fin-

ished into rows of tufts.

Whittle In England a heavy, coarsewoolen fabric, used for blankets andshawls.

Wick A narrow fabric of very coarsesoft spun cotton yarn, made eitherflat or tubular, and left unfinished.Used in lamps and stoves.

Wide Wales Twilled wool fabrics, sameas diagonals.

Widow's Lawn A thin, fine English mus-lin, used for head ornaments.

Width The distance between the twoselvages or edges of a fabric. In for-mer centuries when the constructionof many of the fabrics was regulatedby law, a certain width was pre-scribed for every such fabric, at the

present, however, the greatest va-riety exists in this respect.The width of ribbons is expressed

by the number of the line, or ligne(see), that of the woolens and wors-teds in quarters, one-quarter meas-uring nine inches. As a rule, goodsare called narrow which measure 27

inches or less, wide which measure54 inches. A fabric is of single widthwhen it measures a yard, or less,of double width from 48 to 60 inches.-

Wigan, Wiggin A heavily starched,open cotton canvas, used for inter-

lining; usually gray or black. Thebleached grades are used for shirts.

Wild Hemp Very white, strong, long,ribbon-like fibres yielded by the ses-bania macrocarpa in Colorado.

Wild Silks or Tussah Silks Produced byvarious silk worms or other insectswhich are not artificially cultivated.Such silks are often difficult or im-possible to reel, are of brownish col-or and of uneven diameter andstronger than mulberry silk. Most ofthe wild eilk is torn up for wastesilk and is used for pile fabrics orwoven into pongee. The most im-portant wild silks are produced in

China, Japan, India and Africa.

Wildbore An XVIIIth century name fora coarse fabric, made of long, coarseworsted in England, similar to themodern bunting.

Willesden Canvas^Plain woven cottonfabric, rendered waterproof by treat-

ing it with solution of ammoniacalcopper oxide and pressing it betweenhot calenders.

Williams Commercial variety of uplandcotton, the staple measuring 18-22millimeters; the yield is 33-35 percent.

Williamson Early maturing commercialvariety of upland cotton, the staplemeasuring 22-25 millimeters; theyield is 30-31 per cent.

Willimantic Commercial variety of late

maturing upland cotton, yielding along staple.

Willis Commercial variety of late ma-turing upland cotton, the staplemeasuring 33-37 millimeters; theyield is below 30 per cent.

Willow Fibei Obtained from the bast ofyoung willow rods by steeping thebark in strong lye solution. Used fortwine and bags in Central Europe.

Wilton Heavy machine-made carpetsand rugs, with a cut warp pile. Thenumber of colors used in a patternis limited, each color having an ex-tra warp. There are three bindingpicks to each row of pile.

Wiltshire Lace Obsolete English bobbinlace, similar to the Devonshire lace

Wimberly Commercial variety of late

maturing upland cotton, the longstaple forming large bolls.

Wina Thin fibrous bast of a tree inBritish Guiana; used for wrappingcordage, etc.

Wincey A strong fabric made of cottonwarp and wool filling in plain weaveor twilled; used in England for winterunderwear and men's shirts.

Winder's Waste Silk waste obtained in

the process of winding the raw silkon bobbins. Used for spun silk.

Window Holland Plain woven cotton orlinen fabric, given a starch finishand used for window shades.

Window Plaid Square patterns formedby stripes running warp and weft-wise.

Windsor Plain woven English fabric,made with different colored tufts,which are introduced into the fab-ric in the loom with the aid of little

hooked needles.

Windsor Brilliant A washable Englishcotton dress goods, finished with ahigh lustre.

Windsor Duck Printed duck, made In

England for summer dresses.

Windsor Louisine Pine English washableprinted cotton dress goods.

Winsey See wincey.Winter Laces Laces of close and firm

texture, as Alencon, macrame, etc.,

irrespective of make or design.

Winter Weight Heavy weight fabrics, upto 20 oz. in suitings and up to 30 oz.

in coatings per yard.

Wire Grass Grows in swamps In th$Northwest, used as filling in matsand carpets with cotton warp.

Wire Ground The separately maderaised silk net ground in hand-madeBrussels lace.

WIR 167 WOO

Wiry Wool with a straight fiDer havinglittle elasticity.

Wise Commercial variety of mediummaturing upland cotton, identicalwith Peterkin.

Witch Stitch Same as herringbone stitch.

Witney Blanket 'English woolen blank-ets, made with dense nap.

Witney Serge English woolen serge,napped on both sides.

Wolsted 'Mentioned in 16th centuryEnglish documents, believed by someto have been the original form forworsted.

Wonderful Late maturing commercialvariety of upland cotton, the staplemeasuring 35-40 millimeters; theyield is 28-36 per cent.

Wood Silk Same as artificial silk.

Woof See weft.

Wool The most important animal fiber,

yielded by the sheep and consistingof the medulla (which contains thecolor pigments), the cortical layerand the outer layer which under mic-roscope appears composed of num-erous small scales. The finer thewool the larger the number of thescales which give the felting prop-erty to the wool. Another character-istic of the wool is the waviness andelasticity of the fiber, both existingin a greater degree in fine than incoarse wools. The various proper-ties of wool (as length, fineness, felt-

ing, strength, thickness, etc.), aresubject to the climate and the breedof the sheep, which are being classi-fied into 32 principal varieties and alarge number of sub and crossbredvarieties. On the average about 5,-000 wool fibers are found on onesquare inch of the sheep's skin.Domestic wools are classed mainly

as territory wools (from Utah, Mon-tana, Idaho, Arizona, and a few otherWestern -States), bright and braidwools (or quarter-blood or three-eighths blood, from New England,Kentucky, Missouri and Indiana, usedfor serges, braid, etc.), and Ohiofleeces (from Ohio, Michigan andPennsylvania, the finest Americanstaple).English wools are calssified as long

wools (Lincoln, Notts, Leicester,Cotswold, Hampton, Romney Marsh,Devon, Roscommon, Wensleydale),short wools (called Downs, contain-ing Exmoors. Shropshire, Suffolk.

Southdown, Oxford, Dorset, Wiltshire,Hampshire), special wools (middlelength wools, as cheviot, blackfaced,Herdwick, Shetland, Welsh).Other important wools in the trade

are: Silesian merino (from Germany,yields the finest wool), the Rambouil-let wool (France), the donskoi (orwashed coarse wool from South Rus-sia), Awassi, Bussora and Karadi(carpet wools from Mesopotamia),Bagdad (merino strain from Mesopo-tamia), Georgian wools ,for the finest

carpets), Indian (coarse crossbredwools), Persian (white or colored

carpet wools), Chinese (various car-pet wools), Cape (fine, silky, shortwool from South Africa), River Plate(crossbred from Argentine), Monte-video (Rambouillet and other merinostrain from Uruguay), Punta Arenas(very spongy wool for knit goodsfrom South Argentine), Falkland Is-lands (springy cheviot), Australia(merinos and crossbreds), New Zea-land (crossbreds).

Irrespective of the breed wool is

divided into two classes: tops andnoils (see each), according to thelength of the fiber. It shows a greatvariety according to the breed, meas-uring up to 10 inches or more inlength, while the weight of a fleece is

ranging from three pounds (fine Eng-lish), to 30 pounds or more (as insome South American varieties). Forthe commerce wool is put up in bales,the weight of which varies accordingto the countries.

All kinds and classes of wool ofcommercial importance in Europe andmostly in America and Australia havesprung from the original Spanishmerino. The amount of this strainis expressed in the United States as:full blood, three-quarter blood, three-eighths blood, half-blood, one-quar-ter blood.Wool in the grease, or as it comes

from the sheep's back, contains from20 to 80 per cent animal grease, dirt,etc., which is removed by washingand scouring before the fiber is spunand woven. The largest quota of thewool on the market is shorn fromthe live sheep. The skin wools andslipes are removed from the skin ofthe dead animal and each such fiberhas a root. Lamb's wool and hoggethas one pointed and one cut end whilewether has two cut ends. See alsowool classing and wool sorting.

In its properties wool is highlyhygroscopic and has a great affinityfor dyestuffs (except when kempy).'When set afire it gives an ammoni-acal odor and leaves black crinkledashes behind. Diluted acids have noappreciable effect on wool, but alka-lies produce remarkable change. Con-centrated alkalies produce a highlustre, a scroop and increase con-siderably its tensile strength. On theother hand a 5 per cent solution ofcaustic soda will completely dissolvewool in a few minutes at a boilingpoint. Weak solutions of chlorin willgive the wool a scroop and increaseits affinity for dyestuffs. but destroysits felting property. When treatedwith nitric acid the fiber usually be-comes yellow. Concentrated mineralacids completely destroy the woolfiber while it readily absorbs organicacids.

Wool Backed Fabrics with a silk orworsted face and woolen back.

Wool Classing A process of separatingthe fleeces, as a whole, into severalclasses, each even in quality, regu-lar in length and color.

woo 168 YAC

Wool Dyed Fabrics made of Wool which/.has been dyed before spun into yarn.

Wool Extract Wool recovered from rags,waste, etc., containing cotton,through, the carbonizing process,which destroys the cotton fibres butleaves the wool behind.

Wool Sorting The process of dividingthe fleece into different qualities orcounts, according to length, fineness.

'

soundness and color of the staple.According to the breed and variety ofthe wool and the requirements of themanufacturer the fleece is divided in-

to more or less sections, as follows:shoulder (yields the longest, finest

and most even wool), sides (yieldsstronger but very sound wool), thesides of the neck (shorter and finer

wool than on the shoulders, withtendency for gray hairs), the backof the neck (irregular and faultystaple), the loin and back (short andweaker staple), the rump and tail

(long, strong, often very coarse andkempy fiber), upper part of back legs

(long, coarse wool), upper part of

front legs (short fine, burry wool),bellies (short, fine and dirty), breast

(kempy and short fine wool), shinsand head (very short, kempy wool).These various sorts of wool are

designated either by the quality num-ber, denoting the fineness of the

yarn they will spin or called by vari-

ous names (matchings).The American terms for the vari-

ous qualities, with their approximateEnglish equivalents are: Fine (equalto about 64s to 70s in Bradford),half-blood (58s to 60s), three-eighthsblood (52s to 56s), high quarter-blood(50s), low quarter-blood to quarter-blood (42s to 46s), coarse, commonand braid (36s to 40s).

English matchings in worsteds are:fine (from the shoulders, spin about44s), blue (from neck, spin 40s), neat(from middle of sides and back, spin36s), brown (from the haunches, spin3>2s), britch (from hind legs, spin 24s),

cowtail (from the rump and legs,

spin 18s), down rights (short woolsfrom the neck, spin 40s), seconds(from the belly, spin 32s), abb (fromthe haunches and less, spin 24s).Merino qualities are denoted by the

number they will spin, with the ad-dition of the term "super" (for verylong), "ordinary" and "weft" or

"warp," showing the suitability of thewool. The Botany grades are: super-fine, middling and common.The English matchings in woolens

are called: picklock (shoulders),

prime (sides), choice (middle of

(back), super (middle of sides), sec-onds (lower part of sides), down-rights (neck), abb (nina legs), britch

(haunches).Wool Twine Made of twisted and glue-

sized paper ribbon. It is used for

tying wool together and is soluble in

water.

Woolens A large variety of fabrics;made of carded wool, often mixedwith cotton.

Woolen Yarn 'Made of carded, shortstaple wool, the fibers being placedin every direction; the diameter ofthe yarn is uneven.

Woolsey iMade of cotton and wool, usedfor dresses by English country folk.

Woosie Short Chinese wool with aglossy and soft fitoer.

Worcester^ Woolen fabrics made sincethe 14th century in West England.

Worsteds 1, a large variety of fabricsmade of long, combed wool; 2, inEngland name for shoddy, obtainedfrom worsteds.

Worsted Rays Medieval, heavy, stripedworsted, used for floor covering, etc.

Worsted Yarn 'Made of long combedwool fibers, which lie quite parallel;it has an even diameter.

Wrack Sea grass, used for coarse ropesand stuffing.

X

X In the United States wool trade de-notes a full blood or high grade me-rino wool.

Xerga Spanish term for serge; twilledwoolen blanket in Spain.

Xtuc Native Mexican name for a scronglustrous, white leaf fiber, extractedfrom the Yucca plant.

XX Soft 1, English mill term for verysoft and yielding folded thread, thesingle yarn containing about twiceas many twists as the doubled; 2, inthe United States wool trade denotesfull blood merino wool.

XXX In the United States denotes woolfrom a cross between a Saxony andcommon merino.

Xyllna Name for a bleached cotton fab-ric in the Roman Empire.

Xylodine Name given to a paper yarnmade by twisting and coating withglue and fiber a strip of paper.

Xylolin 1, plain woven fabric made ofcotton warp and paper yarn filling.

Used for cheap working clothes; 2,

paper yarn made in Germany andAustria. Used for carpets and back-ings for carpets.

Yachan Silky seed fiber of the chorisia

insignis, used for stuffing.

Yacht Cloth 'Piece dyed, fine flannel, of

a serge weave with a rough finish;

used for clothing.

YAG 169 YAR

Yaguayagua iPibrous bast yielded by aspecies of the Genipa in Peru; usedfor coarse clothing by the natives.

Yak Lace Coarse English bobbin lace,

made of yak wool, imitating Maltese

guipures.Yaka Strong bast flber, yielded by the

yarn bean in the Fiji Islands; usedfor fishing nets.

Yaktara Thin, plain woven fabric, madein Thibet of the hair of the yak.

Yamamai A species of wild silk yieldedby the Antheraea in Japan andChina.

Yannovich Variety of Egyptian cotton.

Yard Goods Textile fabrics woven in along piece and retailed by the yard.

Yarkand Large and heavy rugs made in

Central Asia with cotton web andlong, loose, wool pile tied in Sennaknot. The Chinese influence is verymarked in the design, consisting of

dragons, fret pattern, fish, or otheranimals, mostly in bright yellows,pinks, reds, blues, greens, etc.

Yarn A continuous strand of spun fibers,

used for weaving or knitting. See also

thread and rope. Besides being spunby hand, as it is still done in manyparts of the world, yarn is manufac-tured in a large variety of ways. Cot-ton is spun with the ring frame (less

expensive) or the mule (produces afiner twisted and softer yarn than the

former). Flax, hemp, jute and ramieare spun either in dry state (for a

very strong line or a soft and full

tow yarn), or in wet state (for muchfiner counts than the former). Formethods of worsted spinning, madeof tops, see Bradford system andFrench system; such yarns are spunon the rings (for the softer yarnsfrom the finest merino wool), on the

cap (for fine merino and crossbred),on the flyer (for low crossbred, lus-

tre wool and hair ya_rn), and on themule (for very soft and full dress

goods and knitting yarns of short

wool). Woolen yarns are spun onself-actors, producing a yarn whichis more fuzzy, roug-h and uneven thanframe spun. For ailk yarn see organ-zine and trame.Yarn is made either single (consist-

ing of one strand twisted in one di-

rection), or ply or folded (consistingof two or more strands, or plies,

twisted in directions opposite to thatgriven to the composing strands).Yarns are made either of one kindof fiber only or contain a mixture of

two or more kinds of fibers, as forinstance union yarns. As to the ef-

fect, yarns are classified as plain (sin-

gle color throughout the entire yarnwith uniform thickness and twist),and fancy. Fancy yarns, which canbe singles or ply yarns, are produced1, with the aid of color effects, like

the mixtures, containing variouslydyed fibers, the Vigoureux (see), andthe double-and-twist; 2, by the aidof irregular twist, as for instance,solid colored nub and loop yarns; or

3, by the combination of the two, asin the cloud, spiral, colored nub andcolored loop yarns.Yarns are twisted either to the

right-hand or the l't-hand direction,the number of twists per inch express-ing the degree of the process. It is cus-tomary to twist cotton warp to theright hand, while worsted warps andsingle woolen yarns are spun usuallywith a left-hand twist. Ply yarn is

twisted in opposite direction to thetwist given to the singles composingit. Yarns for warps are usuallytwisted with more turns than yarnsstill fewer twists per inch. Yarns re-ceiving more or less twist than cus-tomary are called hard spun and soft

spun.While there is no rule strictly ad-

hered to in the degree of twist Im-parted to yarns, certain rules areusually observed in figuring the num-ber of turns required per inch. Forlinen yarns this is figured by multi-plying the square root of the lea ofthe yarn by 1% for weft yarn, by1% for light warp, by 2 for full warpand by 2% or 2% for thread. Aver-age jute yarn of 3 Ib. grist is usuallygiven 8 twists for warp and 6 forfilling; 6 Ib. grist 6.5 twists for warp,4.2 twists for weft; 10 Ib. grist 4.87twists for warp, 2.89 twists for weft.The standard twist for cotton yarns

is figured by multiplying the squareroot of the number (co_unt), of theyarn by 2.5 for hosiery and soft spunyarn, by 3.2 for filling, by 4.75 forwarp and by 5 for extra hard twistyarn.

In woolen and worsted yarns thenumber of twists depends on thelength of the flber and the variousrequirements as to the smoothness,softness, etc., of the cloth. Belowwill be found a number of particu-lars often observed in the givencases.

Crossbred singles: 40s warp 9

twists per Inch, 12s weft 3% turns,20s weft, 7% turns.English lustre singles: 36s weft 5%

twists, 40s weft 6 twists.

Botany singles: 40s warp 10 twists,60s warps, 13 twists, 20s weft 6%turns, 40s weft, 9 turns, 60s weft, 12twists, 80s weft, 13 twists, 90s weft,16 twists, 100s deft, 18% twists, 130sweft, 20 twists.

Mohair singles: 40s warp 10%twists, 48s warp 12 twists, 32s weft8 twists, 40s weft 9% twists. Alpacasingles, 30s weft 10 twists, 40s weft 11

twists.

Crossbred, doubles: 30s warp 10twists, 40s warp, 12 twists, 16s weft6% twists.

English lustre, doubles: 40s warp10 twists, 60s warp, 13 twists.

Botany, doubles: 24s warp 10%twists, 36s warp 13 twists, 48s warp14 twists, 56s warp 15 twists, 60s

warp 15% twists, 100s warp 20 twists.

Moliair, doubles: 40s warp, 11 twists,60s warp 15 twists.

YAR 170 YUR

The unit of measurement for cot-ton yarn is the hank of 840 yards(in Continental Europe 1,000 metresto % kilogramme).For linen yarn in England one bun-

dle is 162-3 hanks, 200 cuts or leas,

24,000 threads, 60,000 yards; in Scot-land one spangle is equal to twohasps, four hanks, 24 heers, 48 cuts,

5,760 threads, 14,400 yards; in Aus-tria one schock is equal to 12 bun-dles, 60 pieces, 240 hanks, 4,800 cuts,

288,000 yards; for French shoethreads 1,000 metres per kilo is theunit. The Dorsel and Somerset sys-tem is based on the weight of 21,600yards, or a "dozen" of yarn.The unit of measurement for jute

yarn is the same as the Scotch sys-tem for linen yarn given above. InHolland the count is expressed bythe weight of 150 metres of yarn in

hektogrammes (0.22 Ibe.).In worsted yarns the number of

hanks (each of 560 yards) in onepound is the count of the yarn, in

(Continental Europe the number of1,000-metre units in a kilogramme.

In America for woolen yarns theunit is the number of 1,600-yardhanks contained in a pound ("run"system). In the Philadelphia dis-trict the cut system is in use, thecount being the number of 300-yard"cuts" in a pound. In England theAberdeen system is: One thread(unit) equal to 2% yards; 120threads one cut, two cuts one heer,three heers one slip, two slips onehank, two hanks one hasp, two haspsone spyndle or 14,400 yards. In Scot-land the Galashiel count is the num-ber of 300-yard cuts in 24 ounces.The count, or litre, of the silk

yarns is the number of deniers (5.313grammes), a skein of 500 metres will

weigh, although the Milan Turin andthe old Lyons systems call for 476-metre skeins.Folded yarns are numbered simi-

larly as singles, with the number ofcomposing strands also indicated.

Yarn Dyed Fabrics, the yarn of whichwas dyed before woven.

Yatahy Fiber yielded by the leaves ofa palm in Paraguay; used for string,etc.

YawsFlaws in cloth, consisting of thinplaces.

Yaxci Very soft, flexible and lustroussisal hemp from Yucatan.

Year Round Cotton Raw cotton former-ly grown in the West Indies.

Yearling 'Wool obtained at the secondyear's shearing.

Yechigo Chijimi Fine light weight dressgoods, made of the leaf fibers of thebanana tree in Japan; used for sum-mer dresses.

Yei Blanket 'Made by the Navajos withthe figure of yei (god) woven; veryrare.

Yellowing The propensity of heavilydressed bleached goods to turn yel-low as the result of disintegration ofthe bleaching chemicals.

Yercum Very strong fiber yielded bya species of the asclepias in South-ern India; used for ropes; same asMundar in North India.

Yerges Thick, coarse, felted woolen fab-ric, used for horse blankets.

Yerioth In the Bible curtains made oflinen or goat's hair.

Yerli Fine staple wool yielded by thesheep near Smyrna, called kivirdjik,having small horns and a narrowtail. Used for carpets, cloth, blank-ets, etc.

Yesteklik Turkish name for small mats,having a soft pile and used for pil-lows; also called Anatolian mats.

Yeux de Perdrix Obsolete French dressgood, made of wool and silk in diaperweave.

Yishbizh Xavajo blanket made withdiagonal stripes.

Yistlo^Plain woven Navajo woolenblanket.

Yokohama Crepe Very fine, close wovencrepe, for coats, etc., not transpar-ent.

Yomud Rugs made of wool and goathair in Turkestan with mediu mlong,close pile. The design consists ofdiamonds with angular hooks aroundthe edge in the center and trailing,angular vine or stripes in the borders.The colors are blues, warm reds,greens, etc.

Yorkshire Planned Good quality Eng-lish flannel of natural wool.

Yorkshire Tweed Made of shoddy orwool and cotton to resemble tweeds.

Youghal Lace The best among the Irishpoint lace; see Irish point.

Ypres 1, fine medieval worsted fromFlanders; 2, bobbin lace similar to theValenciennes (see), having a squaremesh ground, the threads beingtwisted four times around eachother.

Yucca Fiber Coarse, but very strongfiber, used for twine, cordage, etc.,

yielded by the Yucca filamentosa.

Yuchausa Camlets in the Chinese mar-kets.

Yuenching Chiyong (Black Chinese woolplush.

YuencHing Suchienyong Black Chinesevelvet.

Yuenching Wacheinyong Chinese figuredvelvet.

Yuling 'Lasting (see) in the Chinesemarkets.

Yuruk 'Rugs Small and very durablerugs made by the nomad Yuruks inAsia Minor of goat's hair or darkwool. The long wool pile is tied in

Ghiordes knot. The design is com-posed of very large but simple geo-metrical devices of brilliant colorsover a dark brown field. They are'finished with a selvage all aroundand the ends have a short fringe orbraid.

YUT 171 ZUL

Yutun Wool camlet made in China in

all widths, used by natives for winter

clothing;. The warp is of silk andthe filling of wool.

Yuzen Japanese silk crepe, with printedpattern"

Zacate Mexican name for various spe-cies of fibrous grasses, used for mats,

ropes.

Zackel 'Coarse, long carpet wool, yielded

by the Hungarian sheep.

Zafiri Raw cotton of brown staple,

grown in Egypt.Zambelotto A fabric formerly made of

mohair in the Levant.

Zanella Serge, made with cotton warpand worsted filling; used for lining,

and umbrella covers.

Zanzibar Cloth Gray cotton goods, madein India.

Zappara In Southern Europe the agavefiber, used in braids, horse blankets,etc.

Zapupe A white, strong, glossy, soft

and pliable fiber yielded by a speciesof the agave in Mexico; used for

ropes and coarse fabrics.

Zarasas Ordinary cotton prints in Latin-American countries.

Zellner Early maturing commercial var-

iety of upland cotton, the staplemeasuring 20-25 millimeters; the yieldis 30-3 per cent.

Zenana A light matelasse fabric of thelast century, having stripes of satin

and gauze.

Zephyr 1, thin, fine woolen dress goodsfrom Belgium; 2, local name in Ja-maica and Porto Rico for ginghams;

3, washable fine lightweight cottonfabric, made in plain or twill weave,woven in many colored stripes, checksand plaids or corded stripes. Usedfor dresses, etc.; 4, a term often usedto describe fabrics of light texture.

Zephyr Planned Very soft, fine woolenflannel, mixed with silk.

Zephyr Gingham Fine sofe gingham, fin-

ished without dressing.

Zephyr Yarn Soft spun worsted yarn,made of soft merino wool with threeor more strands; used for embroid-ery.

Zerak Dark blue cotton shirting used for

native dresses in the Sudan.

Zerbase Persian double faced silk fab-ric interwoven with gold or silver

threads.

Zibeline 1, a thick, woolen coating witha long, straight and glossy nap, laid

down and entirely covering theweave. The yarn is heavy and con-tains some mohair. The nap is

raised after the weave and then

pressed down; 2, wool yarn with nubsof undyed wool of another sort, usu-ally mohair.

Ziz-Zag Twill A twill weave, producinga zig-zag effect.

Zinc Used as a resist in calico printing(in a fine dust form), and for

weighting silk.

Zinc Chloride Used as prevention of

mould on textiles; in the manufac-ture of lakes, etc.

Zins General trade term in Russia for

the best grade of flax, formerly taken

by the church as tax.

Zirkas In Germany and Austria a wool-en or worsted dress goods, made in

four-leaf, even-sided twill in vari-

ous colored patterns.

Zulu Cloth Twilled and closely wovencloth used for embroidery foundationin England.

172

ADDENDA

r-

Aga The inner bark fiber, obtainedthrough maceration from a variety ofthe Ficus tree; used by the natives ofthe Philippines for ropes and coarsecloths.

Agpui, or Batia, or Catipu A strong bastfiber yielded toy a species of theHibiscus tree in the Philippines;used for fabrics, cordage, etc.

Anilo 'The inner bark fiber of a shrub(Grewia columnaris) ; used for twineand cordage in the Philippines.

Anonang A white, lace-like inner barkyielded by the Cordia myxa, a tall

shrub in the Philippines'; used for.cordage by the natives.

Artonas A fiber obtained from the innerbark of branches of the Anona re-ticulata, a small tree, by the nativesof the Philippines; used for cordageand twine.

Aramay The bark fibers are used by thenatives of the Philippines for cord-age and twine.

Arenga -Saccharifera The tough anddark leaf fibers of this palm are usedby the natives of the Philippines for

cordage.

Artocarpus Camansi This evergreentree yields a very strong inner barkfiber; used for ropes by the nativesof the Philippines.

Aya Momen General trade term fortwilled cotton fabrics in Japan, espe*cially drill.

Babaian The fibrous bark of this tree is

used for making wearing apparel bythe natives in the Pampanga prov-ince, Philippine Islands.

Babaquet A strong stem fiber yieldedby the B., a creeper used for cordageby the natives of Abra province,Philippine Islands.

Bago Bast fiber yielded by the Gnetumgnemon, a tll shrub in the Philip-pines; used for twine and cordage bythe natives.

Bagucon Strong fiber yielded by the in-

ner bast of a creeper in the Philip-

pines; used for ropes by the natives.

Balanac Very strong fiber yielded by the

B. tree in the Philippines; used for

twine and cordage by the natives.

Balbas Tough stem fiber yielded by thevine of a creeper in the Philippines;used for cordage by the natives.

Baliti 'Plain woven coarse fabric, wovenby the natives of the Philippines, ofthe bark fibers of the arandong tree.

Bangar Bast fiber yielded by a speciesof the Sterculia, a large tree in thePhilippines; used for ropes by thenatives.

Baquembaques Bast fiber yielded by aspecies of the Helicteres, a tree in

Luzon, P. I.; used for cordage bythe natives.

Barong Stem fiber of the Eugenia oper-eulata, in the Philippines; used fortwine and cordage by the natives.

Beimen Japanese trade term for Amer-ican raw cotton.

Binagacay The best variety of theManila hemp.

Bisaya A variety of the Manila hempin Negros, P. I.; yields a very strong,coarse, white fiber.

Byzantine A clear and light weightsummer dress faJbrdc, worn duringthe middle of the last century; it wasmade similar to barege.

Camarines A variety of the Manilahemp in Negros, P. I.; yields a tough,coarse and glossy white fiber.

Campapalis A very durable fiber yieldedby a plant in Pampanga, PhilippineIslands; used for cordage by thenatives.

Castuli Bast fiber yielded by the muskmallow in the Philippines; used for

cordage by the natives of Luzon.

Colias The net-like inner bark of theGnetum scandens, a tall climber, inthe Philippines; used for fishing Tiets

by the natives.

Colotan Very strong stem fiber yieldedby a species of the Urena, a peren-nial herb; used for ropes.

Danli Strong bast fiber yielded by the

Grewia laevigata, a tree in the Phil-

ippines; used for cordage by the na-tives.

Dao Bast fiber yielded by the Dracon-tomelum mangifera, a tree in the

Philippines; used for cordage by thenatives.

173

Enile Hand knotted wool rug of Asia'Minor, made with a thick pile.

Franneru 'Flannelette in Japan.

Fukuji A hand woven Japanese cotton

goods, made both in plain and twill

weave, usually like a fine duck, plyyarns being used; police and school-

boys' uniforms are made of this ma-terial.

Futahaba Kanakin Gray shirting in

Japan, made about 30 inches wide;used also for printing.

Futako Trade term in Japan for stripedcotton fabrics (used mostly for

kimonos), made with ply warp.

Guiote Native name for a species of in-ferior cotton in the Philippines;yields short fibers.

Gulistan Good quality hand knottedwool rugs, made at Oushak, AsiaMinor.

Hakamaji A Japanese cotton fabric,made on land looms, mostly in plainweave. It comes usually in blue andwhite stripes and has cross ribs;used for men's skirts.

Hambabalod Bast fiber yielded by the

Nauclea obtusa in the Philippines;used for cordage.

Hanadiang Strong bast fiber in the

Philippines; used for cordage by the

natives.

Hanagdong Strong fiber yielded by theinner bark of the Callicarpa cana, ashrub in the Philippines ; used for

cordage by the natives.

Hibiroto Japanese trade term for a spoolcontaining about 25 feet of hand spuncotton yarn.

Hijokufu Quilts in Japan.

Hi Kanakin 'In Japan cotton cambrics,dyed Turkey red.

Indowata Japanese trade term for rawcotton imported from India.

Inillo A species of cotton growing wild

in Antique, P. I., yields a strong fiber.

Iro Momen Nankeen, made in Japan,and dyed in imitation of the genuinearticle.

Jabo A very tough bast fiber in the

Philippines; used for cordage.

Jingi Trade term in Japan for handginned cotton rolled into a hollowtube.

Jipguid Bast ifi'ber, yielded by a speciesof the Ichnocarpus, a climber in the

Philippines; used for fishing nets bythe natives.

Kachoji Mosquito netting in Japan.

Kaisarich Rugs Very bright colored

hand knotted rugs; the cotton orsilk pile is tied in Ghiordes knot;made in K., in Asia Minor.

Kama Japanese trade term for the cot-ton cop.

Kanakin Generic trade term in Japanfor a variety of plain woven cottongoods, shirtings and print cloths.

Kasuri A hand woven cotton fabric in

Japan, showing irregular whitechecks on a blue ground. It is madein plain weave of yarn, which is

tied up at certain intervals with astring before dyeing. These placesremain intact by the dye and formthe white spots. It is used mostlyfor clothes for the native school chil-

dren.

Kata Aya^-General trade term in Japanfor twilled cotton shirtings.

Kazeto Japanese trade term for a spoolcontaining about 54 feet of hand spuncotton yarn.

Kiapo A strong vegetable fiber in

the Philippines; used for cordage andcoarse cloth by the natives.

Kinisol A variety of the Manila hemp in

Negros, P. I., yields a coarse, whitefiber.

Kohaba Japanese trade term for narrowwidth in fabrics.

Kokura A hand woven Japanese cottonfabric, made in plain or twill weaveand comes in five varieties, all hav-ing ribbed effect.

Kokura Hanaoji A hand woven Japa-nese cotton fabric made of ply yarn,with weft cord effect. In weavingthree or four warp ends are drawnthrough one heddle. This cloth is cut,into strips, rolled and sewn together"to form cord for the Japanese clogs.

Kokura Kabanji A cotton duck made onhand looms in Japan, mostly ply yarnbeing used and weft cord effect pro-duced; used for trunk covers.

Kokura Obiji A hand made Japanesefabric, made of silk warp and cottonfilling or of all cotton with weft cords.It is usually plain woven and comesmostly in dark blue with a singleplain or ornamented stripes; used forsashes by the natives.

Kona Bukuroji Plain woven cotton faib-

ric in Japan; used for flour bags.

Kuriwata Japanese trade name for

ginned raw cotton.

Labog A strong and coarse bast fiber,

yielded by a species of the Malacha(wild okra) in the Philippines; it is

similar to jute and is used for cord-

age.

Lapnis Bast fiber, yielded by a speciesof the China grass in the Philippines;used for cordage.

Lingi A fine and silky leaf fiber in the

Philippines; used for cordage arifl

cloth by the natives.

Lit! A strong cloth made of the innerfibrous bark of the paper mulberryby the natives of Kandavu, Fiji

Islands.

174

Lono A variety of the Manila hemp in

Negros, P. I.; yields a fine, glossywhite fiber.

Malapao Bast fiber of the Dipterocarpusvernici'fluus, in the Philippines; usedfor cordage.

Malasiag Bast fiber, yielded by a speciesof the Ardisia in the Philippines;used for ropes.

Malidlong The lace-like inner bark ofthis tree is placed several layersthick and beaten into a solid fabricby the Filipinos which is used forblankets.

Malo or Masi 'Native name for the fib-

rous inner bark of the paper mul-berry in Fiji; used for clothing andnets by the natives.

Maretz A light silk crepe dress fabric,worn in the middle of the last cen-tury.

Masi See Malo.

Men Chijimi Cotton crepe in Japan.

Menhofu Cotton duck in Japan.

Menneru Trade term in Japan for flan-nelette.

Men Shusu Sateens in Japan.

Mihaba Kanakin Japanese cotton shirt-

ing, made about 45 inches wide, toimitate certain English fabrics.

Milassa Hand knotted all-wool rugs ofAsia Minor; the pile is tied in Ghior-des knot. They come either in stripeddesign or in prayer rug patterns,with old gold as leading color.

Miwata Japanese trade name for un-ginned cotton.

Moro A variety of the Manila hemp in

Negros, P. I.; it yields large quantityof strong, coarse and glossy whitefiber.

Nainsook Local trade term for tanjibsin East Africa.

Namihaba Kanakin In Japan a graycotton shirting, made to imitate theEnglish goods brought in formerly.

Nipis A plain woven fabric made by thenatives of the Philippines of the leaffibers of the Agave.

Ozu Aya In the Japanese trade meanscotton jean.

Pangihan Bast fiber yielded by a tree in

Luzon, P. I.; used for cordage by thenatives.

Quillo Seed fiber in Antique, P. I.; usedfor coarse fabrics by the natives.

Rabo de Leon Very strong leaf fiber,

similar to Manila hemp, yielded by aspecies of the Sanseviera in the Phil-ippines; used for cloth by the na-tives.

Repousse Lace The design consistsmostly of dots, also of flowers andleaves which are raised like blistersand are pushed in in the back.

Salaoag A variety of the Manila hempin Negros, P. I.; yields a coarse,white fiber.

Samorong The most valued variety ofthe Manila hemp in Albay, P. I.

Sarashi Cariko Bleached cotton shirt-

ing in Japan, made about 36 incneswide.

Sarashi Kanakin Plain woven bleachedcotton shirting in Japan.

Shikifugi Cotton bed sheeting in Japan.

Shima Momen Striped cotton fabrics in

Japan.

Shinawata Japanese trade term for rawcotton imported from China; theprincipal qualities are designated bythe Japanese as: Tungchow (thebest), Peis'hi, Nansi, Hankowv andTienchin.

Shiro-momen General trade term in Ja-pan for unbleached (similar to nan-keen), and bleached plain woven cot-ton goods. The harrow, plain wovencotton fabrics, made on hand loomsand half bleached or often dyed blueare also called by this name; usedfor socks and clothes for the peo-ple.

Silhigon Bast fiber yielded by severalspecies of the Sida, a perennial shru'bin the Philippines; used for twineand cloths by the natives.

Sofu -Plain woven unbleached cottonsheeting in Japan, made usually 36inches wide and 44/44.

Sultana 'Lightweight, striped dress fab-ric, made of mohair; used for sum-mer dresses in the 60's of the last

century.

Tancao A variety of the Manila hemp in

Negros, P. I.; yields coarse and glos-sy white fibers.

Tenjiku Japanese trade term for Tcloth; is usually made 31 inches wideand without any colored ends.

Tenuguiji A soft and plain woven cot-ton fabric; used as toweling in Ja-pan; it comes in 12 and 15 inchwidths and often hand printed. It is

also used for table covers, center-pieces and extensively for advertis-ing.

Tugop Bast fiber, yielded by a species ofthe Artocarpus tree in the Philip-pines; used for twine and cordage.

Unsai Trade term in Japan for 2/2 twill,

heavy cotton fabrics, made in her-ring-bone twill effect; the warp is

ply yarn, two weft threads being shotthrough each shed at every pick;used mostly for soles on socks wornby the natives.

Usuji Sofu 'Lightweight and plain wo-ven cotton sheeting in Japan.

Wata Japanese trade term for raw cot-ton; also called menkwa.

Yaka Strong and coarse stem fiber of acreeper in Fiji; used for twine andfishing nets by the natives.

[1915] harmuth, louis - dictionary of textiles

Documents

terms accordingto

overis terms

names ofit

copyrighted names

textile fibres

technical character

dictionary forms

thethis names of garments