(1887) correct dress

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Table of Contents.

THE FULL DRESS SUIT.When to Wear It, Material, The Coat, The Vest, i. Illustration, 2. The Trousers,

The Collar, The Shirt, 3. The Tie, The Cuffs, The Jewelry, The Shoes, 4. The HatMiscellaneous, 6.

THE PRINCE ALBERT SUIT.Illustration, 5. When to Wear It, The Materials, 6. The Cut, The Collars and Cuffs,

The Shirt, The Scarf, 7. The Gloves, Shoes, Hats, 9.

THE CUTAWAY AND SACK SUITS.Illustration, 8. The Cutaway and Its Occasion, 9. The Sack and Its Occasion, Th

Accessories, 10. The Shape, Vests, Hats, 12.

COLLARS AND CUFFS.Illustration, n. General description, 12, 13.

SHIRTS.

Full Dress, Half Dress, Street Dress, 13. Fancy Shirts, 14.SCARFS AND TIES.

Full Dress, Four-in-Hand, Teck, 14. Flat, Windsor, De Joinville, 15.

GLOVES.Full Dress, 15. Street, Driving, 16.

HATS.With Dress Suits, Prince Albert, Cutaway, Sack, 16.

SHOES.Full Dress, Half Dress, Street, Negligee, 16.

DRESS FOR VARIOUS OCCASIONS.Evening Wear, Day Wear, 17.

DIAGRAMS.How to Tie a De Joinville or Windsor Scarf, 18, 19. Hew to Tie a Foui-in-Hand,


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Index.

Afternoon Dress, ...Balls, Dress for -

Bosom Pins, Business Dress, -

Calls, Afternoon Dress for Formal,

Calls, Evening Dress for Formal, -

Calls, Evening Dress for Social. - 6,Collars, for Full Dress, -

Collars, for Half Dress,

Collars, for Prince Albert Suit,

Collars, Illustrations, - - -

Collars, Types ofConcerts, Dress for - 6,Concerts, Parlor, Dress for

Cuff Buttons, -

Cuffs, - - - -


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Opera, Dress for - - -1,6.13,17

Opera Parties, Dress for - - 1, 17Parties, Dress for - - - - 1, 17

Prince Albert Suit, Collar f>r- -

7Prince Albert Suit, Cut, The - 7Prince Albert Suit, Gloves. - - 9

Prince Albert Suit, Hat, - - 9Prince Albert Suit, Illustration, - 5

Prince Albert Suit, Materials, - - 6

Prince Albert Suit, Scarfs and Ties, - 7Prince Albert Suit, Shirt, The - 7Prince Albert Suit, Shoes, 9Prince Albert Suit, When to Wear It, 6, 17Receptions, Dress lor Day, - -6,17Receptions, Dress for Evening - 1, 17Sack Suit, Accessories, The 10Sack Suit, Hat, - - - - - 12

Sack Suit, Illustration, - - - 8

Sack Suit, Occasionsfor - - - 10

Sack Suit, Shape, 12

Sack Suit, Vest. - - - - - 12

Scarf Pins, 7, 15

Scarfs and Ties, De Joinville, - 15, 18, 19Scarfs and Ties, Flats, - - 7, 15Scarfs and Ties, Four-in-Hand, 7, 12, 14Scarfs and Ties. Full Dress, - 4, 14

Scarfs and Ties, Prince Albert Suit,Scarfs and Ties, Tecks, 7,Scarfs and Ties, Windsor,

Shirts, Fancy,When

to Wear,

Shirts, for Business, Street, Morning,

Shirts, for Cutaway,Shirts, for Full Dress,

Shirts, for Half Dress, - - -

Shirts, for Prince Albert.

Shoes, for Full Dress, -

Shoes, for Half Dress, -

Shoes, for Negligee, -

Shoes, for Prince Albert Suit. -

Shoes, for Street, ...-

Teas, Afternoon, Dress for

Theatre, Dress for 6,

Theatre Parties, Dress f< r

Undervests, ....Vests, for Cutaway Suit,Vests, for Full Dress Suit, -

Vests, for Prince Albert Suit, -

Vests, for Sack Suit, - - -

Weddings, Dress for Day,

Weddings, Dress for Evening.

Windsor Ties, ------Yachting Dress, -

- 7

12, 14

15

13, 14

13

3, 13

13

7, 13

4,16

16

- 16

9

- 16

6,17

10, 17

ii 17

- 6

12

1

6,712

6,17

*i 17

*5

- 17

#jv*


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The Full Dress Suit.

When to T^HE Full Dress Suit is distinctively the evening-Wear it. JL dress, and should never be worn before the even-

ing dinner. It can be worn anywhere in the evening and

must be worn on all occasions of formal ceremony, such as weddings, parties,

dinners, receptions, theatre and opera parties, and other occasions whose

formal character is indicated by a formal invitation, and where socialamenities are at their highest. A Full Dress Suit should not be wornduring the day on any occasion whatever, but during the evening it maybe worn whenever and wherever the wearer likes ; but for formal occasions

it is absolutely requisite.

Material. Fine' black worsted, either of very narrow diagonal or

of fine wales running nearly straight across the web, is the

proper material for coat, trousers and vest; or, if desired,the latter may be of white silk or satin.

The Coat. Coats may have collars cut either with or without lapels.The roll in either case is light and long, extending towithin five inches of the waist. Both styles are faced wich

satin the lapels for about half their width, the "shawl " collar (that with-out lapels) to the outer edge. The skirts taper from the hips to a narrow

bottom. Sleeves are moderately close, finished with real or imitation cuffs.

The edges are bound with very narrow binding.

The Vest. Handsome embroidery upon the vest is very desirable, butnot absolutely essential. If the material is the same

as the suit, it may be either plain or embroidered withany degree of elegance for which the wearer is willing to pay. The em-


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The Full Dress Suit.


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broidery is applied about an inch from the edge, along the collar, down the

front and across the bottom and pockets. If of white silk or satin, it may be

embroidered in the same manner, or may have an all-over embossed or em-

broidered pattern. The silk or satin vests are favored by elegant dressers.

The vest may have either three buttons, spaced about 1% inches apart, orfour buttons, spaced about 2 inches apart. The opening is moderatelycurved, or shield-shape, and the collar narrow.

TheTrousers. About 17^ inches at the knee and 17 inches at the bottomis the proper size, making the trousers neither tight nor

baggy, but trim and shapely. They are finished plain with

no braid down the side seams.

The Collar. The collar should be moderately high, and may be either

straight or with turn-over points. The height should be I %or 2 inches in front and 1 }( or 1^ inches behind If straight,

the corners should be sharp, and the opening should be from % to % inches.Collars that lap are no longer fashionable. The collars Nos. I, 2, 3,illustrated on page 11, are typical shapes suitable for full dress.

The Shirt. The Full Dress Shirt may have either a linen or pique bosom,

opening in front. If of linen it may be either plain,

pleated or embroidered. The embroidered front is

most desirable, the pleated front the least so, and the latter is not greatly in

vogue. The plain front may have either a corded or hemstitched edge, the

latter being very genteel. The embroidered front may have a very

delicate line of embroidery running down the center uponthe line of the

eyelets : or it may have a similar double line, one on each flap with about

two inches plain space between, in which are the eyelets. Large florid pat-

terns of embroidery running over the whole front should be avoided. Neat

all-over patterns of small dots, sprigs or other minute patterns, are in high

favor and excellent taste. Pique shirts of plain ribbed or woven pattern are

still worn but are not so popular as formerly. Embroidered piques on a fine


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ribbed ground, similar to those of embroidered linen, are in high favor.

Some shirts are embroidered in colors more or less delicate. They are notsuitable for full dress. One, two, or three studs may be used, according tothe individual fancy, but two studs are considered the best form.

The Tie. There is but one kind of tie permissible for full dress, plain lawn tie % to y inches wide, tied by the wearer.Made-up ties should be avoided. Satin or silk ties are not

used at present.

The Cuffs. These may either lap for buttons, or barely meet, for links.

The preference is for the latter, the latest shapes havingslight opening along their entire length. They may have

either round or square corners, like the cuffs on page II.

The "Jewelry. Absence of display being a characteristic of a modern gen-

tleman's dress, no jewelry whatever is used except that

which has a direct purpose, and this is kept as simple as pos-

sible. It is limited to studs and cuff buttons, with a partial exception in

favor of the watch chain. The studs and links may be either of white enamelwith a gold back, or of plain gold, preferably of Roman finish, to avoid unde-sirable luster. If two or three studs are worn, they should be of modest

size ; a single stud may be of more generous proportions. Diamonds are nolonger worn by gentlemen. A pin of any kind in the shirt front is theheight of vulgarity. A gold watch chain should never be worn with a dresssuit. Many gentlemen do not wear any chains. A plain black silk guardchain, or the same mounted with gold, is in good taste.

The Gloves. Pearl kids, with stitching of the same color, are the only

proper gloves for full dress. They should be worn on all

occasions of ceremony.

The Shoes. Congress gaiters, with patent leather uppers and imitation

silk stocking tops.


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The Prince Albert Suit.


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The Hat. The crush hat is no longer in use. A light-weight silkhat is the only wear, with full dress.

Miscellan- An undervest of silk or woolen is a necessity with fulleons. dress,.to protect the wearer against pneumonia and other

diseases liable to result from wearing a low-cut vest with-

out an additional undergarment. A muffler to protect the shirt front fromsoiling, and to be worn with the overcoat, is also a necessity. It should be

of white silk. Many gentlemen, upon removing it, thrust it within the vest,leaving it slightly protruding over the shirt front. Such a disposal of it is

unsightly and affected. It would better be left with the overcoat.

The Prince Albert Suit.

When to 'T^HE Prince Albert Suit maybe called the suit forWear it. JL formal dress by day, as the Dress Suit is the suit

par excellence of evening dress. It should be worn at wed-

dings, receptions, dinners, and other formal occasions by daylight; andmay be worn on any occasion but these in the evening. It may be summar-ized as the formal afternoon suit and the informal evening suit that is, itis obligatory at formal affairs in the day, and optional at informal affairs in

the evening. Well along in the afternoon a man may put on his PrinceAlbert Suit, and wear it on the street, at informal dinners, at the theatre or

opera, for social calls, and, in fact, anywhere during the evening except at

formal entertainments, where only full dress is suitable. As a rule, men of

moderate tastes will wear the Prince Albert Suit in preference to the FullDress or Cutaway, whenever the occasion permits of a choice.

The Mate- For strict dress narrow wale worsteds, black or dark, of

rials. very fine quality, should be used for the coat ; and the

trousers and vest may be of the same material, if desired,but preferably different. The vest maybe made of any neat fancy vesting,


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or of plain or delicately tinted silk or Marseilles. The trousers should beof line goods, either checked or striped, and ranging from moderately darkto as light as the wearer may wish. Dove color or fawn in delicate stripesor checks are popular colorings, but almost any latitude is allowable. Forstreet wear, and times when strict dress is not necessary, lighter coloredgoods may be used, gray worsteds, or modestly striped cheviots.

The Cut. The coat is cut to close moderately high or to roll free, issilk-faced to end of button-holes and finished with flatbraid. The vest should close with six buttons and have a

notched collar, and the trousers should average 18 inches at the knee and

17^ at the bottom.

The Collar With the Prince Albert Suit there is more latitude for choiceand Ctiffs. in collars, and besides those described in connection with

the Full Dress Suit, any of the patterns shown on page 11may be used, according to the individual fancy, only remembering thatviolent extremes are not in good taste. The same is true of the cuffs.

TheShirt.

Aplain

whiteshirt

with linen bosomis

most suitable, al-though pique may be worn if desired, and there is no ob-jection to embroidery, except that it is almost entirely cov-

ered. Shirts with color in them, such as cheviots, Madras, and fancy

pique, should not be worn with a Prince Albert Suit, except, perhaps, with alight colored suit, on the street, at the race-track, or on similar occasions.

The Scarf. A Four-in-Hand scarf 2 inches wide, tied by the wearer,is proper for strict dress. It may be pure white, whitewith small pattern in delicate colors, or of solid color of what

are called "evening tints" mauve, corn, azure, heliotrope, shrimp, etc.,the latter of gros grain or Ottoman silk. A flat scarf may be worn if de-sired, but flats are not much in favor at present. A small scarf pin may beworn with the flat scarf, but not with the Four-in-Hand. The made-upFour-in-Hand, called the Teck, is also popular, but, owing to its somewhat


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The Cutaway and Sack Suits.


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stiff shape, the best dressers prefer the Four-in-Hand. For half dress the

latitude in the matter of scarfs is very large, covering the whole range of

colors from black to white, and not only silks but also a wide range of sum-

mer fabrics ; in fact the selection of the scarf is purely a matter of individ-

ual taste. In New York the popular taste in summer wear this season isfor light colors and whites, in silks, pongees, crepes, grenadines, piques,

ducks, etc.

The Gloves. For all formal occasions, pearl kids with stitching of me-

dium size of the same color. For informal occasions, the

street, etc., tan color, dressed or undressed kids, with

medium stitching, either the same color or black.

Shoes. For strict dress, patent leather, kid tops, with buttons.

For the street, laced gaiters of leather, with kid top, toe-

cap and round toe.

Hats. Only a tall hat should be worn with a Prince Albert Suit.

A silk hat is proper for formal dress, and a white, pearl or

fawn for street wear.

.The Cutaway and the Sack Suits.

The Cutaway T^HE Cutaway Suit may 'almost be called the Suitand its Occasions . 1 Universal, for it is suitable to a greater variety of

occasions, and is more affected by all sorts and conditions

of people than any other. Its convenience and comfort render it popular

for business; its neatness adapt it for most social occasions ; and it reaches

from one end of the scale almost to the other. Some maintain that the

Cutaway is solely a business, walking, or morning coat"morning," in a

social sense, meaning the time before the formal dinner, say 6 p.m. ; but

this view is entirely too stringent, for good usage approves the Cutaway of


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dark, fine material for all occasions except the most formal such as wed-dings, parties, dinners, etc., whose character is indicated by written invita-

tions.

For dinners en famille or by verbal invitation, for the theatre or theopera except with, parties for ordinary social calls, for church, for thestreet for all these occasions the Cutaway Suit is entirely proper ; althoughit does not by any means exclude the more formal Prince Albert or DressSuit. It must always be borne in mind, however, that with this suit mate-

rial is of much importance ; that coarse materials and bone buttons arenever in place in the evening ; and that the Cutaway when worn socially, soto speak, must be dark and fine as to coat, while the trousers may be either

dark, which is always good form, or lightish.It may be said for the Cutaway that it is the suit of good sense ; for it is

alike adapted to the man who is fastidious in dress and him who only desiresto avoid social gaucherie.

The Sack and The proper purpose of the Sack Suit is business, or outdoorIts Occasions. pursuits or amusements. It is neglige, informal and com-

fortable ; but its social status is that of the shirt sleeves

it has no place in the house. It is permissible anywhere in the morningat business, on the veranda, at a picnic or where formality is absent, and

comfortable relaxing takes its place ; but when the ladies dress, after lunch-eon, the Sack Suit must disappear from the house, and be replaced by the

trimmer and therefore more formal Cutaway.

In shape, the Sack may be cut with either round or square corners as thetaste of the wearer may dictate ; and material too, is a matter of so widerange that it need not be touched on, further than to say that it is entirely

subject to individual preference.

Accessories. The latitude for selection as to what may be worn withthese two suits is so great that there is very little necessity

for instruction. In the selection of suitings, of scarfs, o

vests, of collars, one may please his own fancy, selecting only such articles


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II

No. i.

No. 3.

s -


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12

as are not fantastic or unusual. Elsewhere, the types of prevailing styles in

minor articles are described with requisite fullness, and a selection to please

the individual fancy may safely be made amongst those types.

The Shape. Both Cutaway and Sack are now made with a longer rollto the collar, to permit a small portion of the shirt front to

be seen. The vests are cut considerably lower and withwider openings than last season, showing a fair share of the shirt bosom

when the coat is worn open. The shapes of the scarfs are adjusted to this,the Four-in-Hand and Teck being'the favorites. This wider opening of the

vests is also favorable to the wearing of fancy shirts of colored pique, pat-

tern percales, cheviots, etc., which are only proper with a Cutaway or SackSuit.

Vests. White and fancy vests of duck, or similar material, are

very desirable with Cutaway or Sack Suits, especially for

summer wear.

Hats. Any hat may be worn with a Cutaway Suit, and any hat

but a silk hat may be worn with a Sack Suit.

Collars and Cuffs.

FO R full dress the range for selection is limited to three patterns, ofwhich the patterns Nos. l, 2 and 3, shown upon the adjoining

page, are types. Collars of extreme height and large points have beenabandoned by good dressers, and the tendency is toward less height and

smaller points. The height in front above the button-hole may rangefrom 1^ to iy as extremes, with 2 inches as the favorite medium, and from\]/ in the back to 1^ inches high. In straight seam collars the corners aresharp as shown in the cuts. The opening may vary from exact perpendicu-


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lar to very slightly V-shaped, and from % to ^ inches in width. If turnedpoints are preferred, the points should not be longer than those shown on

No. 3. The points should close at the bottom, and the size should not vary

much from 2 inches height in front and \% behind.For half dress and neglige the range for selection is considerably wider,

the only actual requirement being the avoidance of extreme heights, such as

the 2Y2, inch patterns and the very long and large points.

The type of cuff most recommended is that of which No. 4 is anexample. Link cuffs are by far the most fashionable, but button cuffs, of

course, always retain a degree of popularity. The link cuff may also be

rounded slightly at the corners as shown in No. 5.

Shirts

FULL dress requires a plain white linen bosom shirt, a plain whiteribbed pique shirt, or either linen or pique, embroidered in white.

Pleated bosoms are somewhat used but are not greatly in favor. The em-broidery should be in a single narrow delicate line down the front, or in twolines, one on each flap, and about two inches apart. Large florid embroi-

dery is in bad taste. No color is admissible. An all-over embroidered pat-tern of small spots, delicate sprigs or similar design, is also in excellent taste.

One, two, or three studs may be used, but two studs are the best form.

Half Dress, with the Prince Albert or Cutaway Suits, requires a plainwhite shirt.

With street dress, morning dress, business dress, or neglige, either whiteor fancy shirts may be worn, as desired. Fancy pique's with colored patternsor embroidery, percales, cheviots, etc., are proper only for business or rec-

reation, and should never be worn in the evening nor for afternoon calling, nor


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in the house on any occasion except when neglige dress is permissible, as atthe seaside or at summer resorts.

For business, for the street and for morning wear, fancy percale, pique or

cheviot shirts, are most suitable and becoming, and are in some respectspreferable to whit* shirts. They may be worn either with whitecollars and cuffs, with collars and cuffs to match the shirt, or with collar to

match, with turned points of white.

Scarfs and Ties.

TH E proper tie for a Full Dress Suit is a straight band of white lawn,5s to % inches wide, tied by the wearer in a square bow with short

ends. Made-up ties should not be used. Satin and silk ties are not nowconsidered good form with full dress.

The Four-in-Hand Scarf, tied by the wearer, and the Teck, or made-upFour-in-Hand, are by far the most fashionable scarfs of this year. Theproper width is 2 or

2%inches with the narrower width in most favor.

Ties of greater width than 1% inches have gone out entirely. They areworn with every style of suit except the Full Dress. They are necessary

with the Prince Albert Suit for strict dress, and when so worn should be of

silk or satin, either plain white, white with delicate colored pattern, or in

solid tints of delicate colors, such as corn, mauve, saffron, azure, heliotrope,

pink, etc. For informal dress, street wear, business, etc., they may embrace

any material or color whatsoever, silk, satin, grenadine, crepe, pongee,pique or duck, ranging from white to black and including both high and lowcolors. Favorite grounds are indigos, with white or light blue spots of all

sizes, slates and electric blues with flame and flesh-colored spots. Silk

crepes and grenadines, embroidered with white and colors in small figures, are

the choicest things of the season. The delicate colorings and fabrics that are

most suitable for evening and house wear are worn this season a good deal upon


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the street also. A scarf pin should not be worn with a Four-in-Handor Teckscarf.

The Flat Scarf may be worn with half dress, for street, business or neg-lige. The wide patterns should be avoided and the long and narrow shapeselected, that the shirt bosom may show upon each side of it to conform tothe prevailing lower cut of the vests. Any material or color may be worn,as observed of the Four-in-Hand. A small scarf pin should always be wornwith a flat scarf.

The Windsor tie is most suitable for neglige dress, and may be worn witha Sack Suit, with boating, yachting, hunting, shooting, or lounging gar-

ments, in the country, at the seaside or elsewhere, where ease goes beforestiffness and formality.

A made-up Windsor, or Windsor band bow, has been introduced thisseason, and is a handsome and appropriate substitute for the Windsor,

which is difficult to tie nicely. The diagram herewith will show how to tiethe Windsor.

The De Joinville is a handsome scarf but little worn, mainly because of thedifficulty in tying it. It may either be worn with a ring, or tied as shownin the accompanying diagram and secured with a pin. In bright colors it is

a handsome and suitable scarf for street wear with a Prince Albert Suit, andin delicate colors is no less suitable for house wear, although not at present

fashionable with strict dress. Before wearing, it should be folded and

pressed with an iron, to form a band about the neck, the ends remaining

un pressed.

Gloves.

FO R occasions of high ceremony gloves must be worn ; and they shouldbe worn on all occasions when full dress is essential. For full dress,

pearl colored kids with stitching of the same color and of medium width, arethe only proper wear.


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i6

For the street, and for calling, tan gloves with similar colored or black

siitching are proper. Undressed tan kids are also very popular for walk-

ing gloves.

For driving, heavy tan gloves of castor,dogskin, or other heavier leather,

with heavy black pitching ; and brown lisle gloves with kid lined fingers

are the proper thing.

Hats.

WIT H a Dress Suit or Prince Albert Suit wear only a silk hat. Theonly exception to this rule is in the light colored Prince Albert

Suit for street wear. With this a tall white hat may be worn if desired.

With a Cutaway Suit, wear any hat desired, according to the occasiona silk hat for perfect neatness, a Derby on any or all occasions, and a soft

or straw hat for neglige.

With a Sack Suit wear anything whatsoever but a silk hat, which shouldnever accompany it.

Shoes.

FO R full dress, the shoes should be of patent leather with gaiter topsin imitation of silk stockings.

For half dress, button shoes with patent leather uppers with kid or darkcloth tops are correct. The toes are round and of moderate width.

For the street, a leather laced gaiter shoe with round toe and toe-cap isrecommended ; and for walking, a heavy double-sole laced shoe of leather

with kid tops.

For neglige, yachting, the seaside, etc., a shoe of russet calf, either

laced or Oxford, is desirable,


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How to Tie a De Joinville


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tg

At*)'

or Windsor Scarf.


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How to Tie a Four-in- H and.Adjust the tie with long end to the right, stand before the glass, and follow diagram.


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* * *

4UR stock comprises every article of Men's Furnishingsin latest styles and great variety.

SHIRTS : Fine Dress Shirts of Linen and Pique,Plain, Embroidered or Pleated. Percale, Madras,or Cheviot Shirts. French and Scotch Flannels

for Neglige, Bicycle, Boating, Tennis, and

Yachting Shirts.

HOSIERY : French and English Hosiery in Bal-briggan, Lisle, Merino, Cashmere and Silk, allqualities, all popular colors and patterns.

UNDERWEAR: Best quality Underwear inall weights and sizes. Fine line of choice

shades in Balbriggans of extra quality, Merino,

Silk-Mixed and Natural Wool.

* * *


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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

Name, Business and Address Here

Collars and Cuffs.

Latest London and New York styles. Best quality.

Scarfs and Ties.

Froper shapes for every occasion. Ties, Flats, Puffs,

Four-in-Hands, Tecks, Windsors, De Joinvilles, inall the popular fabrics and colors for every season,

such as Gros Grains, Ottomans, Baratheas, Armures,

Armozeens, Nattes, Mattelasses. ....For Summer, Silk Crepes, Grenadines and Zephyrs,Piques, Linens, etc. ......

Handkerchiefs Linen, Japanese and Chinese Silk, Hemstitched, FancyPrint, Etc.

Scarf Pins, Studs, Links, Buttons, Gloves, Mufflers, Etc., Etc.


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Conservation Resources

Lig-Free Type I01. o c d..t.. a


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LIBRARY OF CONGR

mui14 149 108

(1887) correct dress

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