1500 1600 late renaissance
TRANSCRIPT
Late Renaissance
….When excessiveness in clothing began
Overview
• Fashion in the period 1500–1550 in Western Europe is marked by voluminous clothing worn in an abundance of layers
• Contrasting fabrics, slashes, embroidery, applied trims, and other forms of surface ornamentation became prominent.
• The tall, narrow lines of the late Medieval period were replaced with a wide silhouette, conical for women with breadth at the hips
• Sleeves were a center of attention, and were puffed, slashed, cuffed, and turned back to reveal contrasting linings.
• Hoop skirts or farthingales had appeared in Spain at the very end of the fifteenth century, and spread to England and France over the next few decades. Corsets (called a pair of bodies) also appeared during this period.
• Shoes were flat, with broad square toes.
Gowns• Women's fashions consisted of a long gown, usually
with sleeves, worn over a kirtle or undergown, with a linen chemise or smock worn next to the skin.
• The high-waisted gown of the late medieval period evolved in several directions .In the German states and Bohemia, gowns remained short-waisted, tight-laced but without corsets. The open-fronted gown laced over the kirtle. Sleeves were puffed and slashed, or elaborately cuffed.
• In France, England, and Flanders, the high waistline gradually descended to the natural waist in front and then to a V-shaped point. Cuffs grew larger and were elaborately trimmed.
Hats and Headgears
• In France, England, and the Low Countries, black hoods with veils at the back were worn over linen undercaps
• Unique to England was the gable hood, a wired headdress shaped like the gable of a house.
• A simple rounded hood of the early years of the century evolved into the French hood
• German women adopted hats like fashionable men's baretts early in the century
• Linen caps called coifs were worn under the fur cap, hood or hat.
• In warmer climates including Italy and Spain, hair was more often worn uncovered, braided or twisted with ribbons and pinned up, or confined in a net.
Accessories
• Women of wealth wore gold chains and other precious jewelry; collar-like necklaces called carcanets, earrings, bracelets, rings, and jewelled pins.
• Fashionable accessory was the zibellino, the pelt of a sable or marten worn draped at the neck or hanging at the waist.Themost expensive zibellini had faces and paws of goldsmith's work with jewelledeyes.
• Gloves of soft leather had short, sometimes slashed, cuffs and were perfumed
Overview
• Fashion in the period 1550–1600 in Western European clothing is characterized by increased opulence, the rise of the ruff, the expansion of the farthingale for women.
• The general trend toward abundant surface ornamentation : shirts and chemises were embroidered with blackwork and edged in lace, and heavy cut velvets and brocades were further ornamented with applied bobbin lace, gold and silver embroidery, and jewels.
• Leather and fabric garments continued to be decorated by slashing and punching the fabric in regular patterns, and linings could be pulled through the slashes in small puffs
• Clothing was fastened with buttons or tied with cord or ribbon points. For the wealthy, buttons were made of silver and gold and set with gemstones, and points were tipped with aiguillettes or aiglets of precious metals.
Bodices and Sleeves• The narrow-shouldered, wide-cuffed "trumpet"
sleeves characteristic of the 1540s and 1550s disappeared with the accession of Elizabeth, in favor of French and Spanish styles with narrower sleeves
• Emphasis was on high or wide shoulders. Slashed upper sleeves with puffs of the chemise pulled through evolved into single or double rows of loops at the shoulder with contrasting linings.
• Bodices could be high-necked or have a broad, low, square neckline, often with a slight arch at the front early in the period. French, Spanish, and English bodices were stiffened into a cone shape or worn over corsets.
Bodices and Sleeves• The bodice ended in a V-shape at the front
waist in French, English, and Spanish fashion. Italian and German fashion retained the front-laced bodice of the previous period, with the ties laced in parallel rows; Italian fashion uniquely featured a broad U-shape rather than a V at the front waist
• A low neckline could be filled in with a partlet. English partlets were usually of embroidered linen with matching sleeves. Embroidered sets of partlet and sleeves were frequently given to Elizabeth as New Year's gifts. Alternatively, a high-necked chemise with a standing collar and ruff could be worn
Gowns, Skirts and Chemise• Gowns with hanging sleeves in various styles, often
lined in fur, were worn as an extra layer indoors and out through the period. Loose gowns of the 1560s hung from the shoulders, and some had puffed upper sleeves. Loose gowns could be worn over a one-piece kirtle or under-dress, usually laced at the back.
• The fashion for skirts worn open at the front to display a rich petticoat or separate forepartcontinued into the 1580s. The forepart was a heavily decorated panel to fill in the front opening; it might be sewn to a plain petticoat or pinned in place.
• During this period, underwear consisted of a linen chemise or smock and (optionally) linen drawers. Fine chemises were embroidered and trimmed with narrow lace
Hats and Headgears• Front hair was curled and puffed high over the
forehead. Wigs and false hairpieces were used to extend the hair.
• In keeping with tradition, married women in Northern Europe wore their hair pinned up and covered.
• A style called in French as attifet was wired or starched into a slight heart-shape
• Flemish and French hoods were worn into the 1560s
• Another headdress was a caul or cap of net-work lined in silk attached to a band
• In this period, women began to wear hats similar to those worn by men
