1305 - 2005

DUNFERMLINE

SIR WILLIAM WALLACE

Portrait of Wallace mounted by the Stirling Smith Art Gallery and Museum

To commemorate the 700th Anniversary of the Death of Wallace

23rd August 2005.

By Sheila Pitcairn

DUNFERMLINE ABBEY

Annals of Dunfermline by E. Henderson

An artist’s impression of the Great Abbey of Dunfermline in the time of Alexander III.

1250 – THE MAGNIFICENT DUNFERMLINE ABBEY

In the year 1250 the new choir of the Abbey had been completed, Fordun says, “The

King (Alexander III being about eight years old) and the Queen his mother along with

Bishops and Abbots, and other nobles of the kingdom, met at Dunfermline, this was

for the translation of Margaret Queen of Malcolm III. After 1250 the Abbey it is

called The Church of “The Holy Trinity and St Margaret,” this is found in the

Register of Dunfermline and other old writings. St Margaret, at the same time,

became the Tutelar Saint of Dunfermline. St. Margaret’s Black Cross or Rood, which

had been given by her to the Church or Abbey of Dunfermline, was well known

throughout Catholic Scotland, and was held in the highest veneration.

1263 - THE BATTLE OF LARGS

An old tradition continues to inform us that “On the eve of the battle of Largs, it

was believed by the Scots that the Royal Tombs at Dunfermline gave up their dead,

and that there passed through its northern porch to war against the might of Norway a

lofty and blooming matron in royal attire, leading in her right hand a noble knight

refulgent in arms and a crown on his head, and followed by three heroic warriors, like

armed, and like crowned; these were Margaret, Malcolm and three sons, the founders

of the medieval Church of Scotland.”

1281 – “THE KING SITS IN DUNFERMLINE TOUNE,

DRYNKING THE BLUID-RED WYNE

OH, WHERE WILL I GET A SAYLOR BOLD

TO SAYL THIS SCHIPE OF MINE?”

These often-quoted lines are to be found in the old ballad of Sir Patrick Spens,

composed to commemorate a sad disaster that occurred. Alexander III had lost his

two sons David and Alexander, both buried in Dunfermline Abbey. Margaret his

granddaughter was the “Maid of Norway” also called “The Damsel of Scotland” his

only surviving heir. This Margaret was also the only child and heir of Eric II.

Magnusson, King of Norway, by his first wife Margaret, only daughter of King

Alexander III. Margaret, Queen of Scot reigned a mere four years. She died in

Orkney, (Norwegian territory at that time) in September 1290 en route to marry

Edward of England’s son, the first Prince of Wales.

Alexander III King of Scots

1286 - DEATH OF ALEXANDER III - KING OF SCOTS

In obedience to the prophecy of Thomas the Rymer, in Dunbar Castle, uttered to

Patrick, seventh Earl of Dunbar the very day preceding the tragic event when in the

dusk of the evening, 16th

March riding between Burntisland and Kinghorn when the

horse stumbled and they went over a high rocky cliff, and were killed.

Alexander III King of Scots

The King was embalmed, and according to Hay’s Sacra Scotia, his heart was

extracted and buried in the Church of St John the Baptist at Perth.

John Fordun, 14th centaury historian, in his account of the violent end of Alexander

says, “And he was buried in the Abbey of Dunfermline as became a King.”

The Chronicon de Lanercost notes that he was buried in the “middle part near the

Presbytery.” In 1286, the Presbytery was situated near the east end of the new Choir,

or a little to the south of the site of the pulpit of the present modern church.

The sudden death of Alexander III would have had a profound effect upon the

whole of Scotland at every level of society. The Abbey Schools would close for a

period of mourning. The whole Church, including all the religious houses such as the

Benedictines and Augustinians would be involved in the preparations for the burial of

Alexander III King of Scotland.

1291 - THIRTEEN CLAIMANTS

A convention to settle the heirship was held by Edward I (Longshanks, eldest son of

the late King Henry III of England) with the bishops, nobles, and people of the

kingdoms of Scotland and England at Norham 10th

May 1291, where the thirteen

claimants or competitors presented their claims personally or by proxy. John Balliol

was selected by Edward I from among the Competitors to be King, 17th

November

1292 at Berwick Castle.

During the Interregnum a very beautiful seal had been made and used, by

appointment, “for the Government of the realm.” On the one side we observe a figure

of St. Andrew, the Patron of the Realm, with nimbus and tunic, fastened on the cross

saltire, with which he is ever associated. The background here also is formed by a

regular series of slipped trefoils or shamrocks, used before the adoption of the thistle.

The reverse side is very interesting designed with exquisite skill and true heraldic

feeling. The well designed lion rampant, the principal charge, with the tail incurved

or bent inwards towards the neck of the animal – a detail which belongs rightly to the

Scottish lion, and is found constantly recurrent from the day of the making of this seal

until the present time.

Great Seal appointed for the Government other side of the Great Seal appointed for

Of the Realm the Government of the Realm

After the death of King Alexander III After the death of King Alexander III

1291 - EDWARD I KING OF ENGLAND ARRIVED IN DUNFERMLINE

DUNFERMLINE ABBEY

FRATERY/MONASTERY DUNFERMLINE

(Order of St. Benedictine)

17th July 1291 – This was Edward I King of England’s first visit on route from

Berwick to Perth where the Earls, Barons Bishops Abbots, Burgesses &c were to sign

his roll of homage as his vassals - “The Ragman Rolls” gives the following account of

Edward’s visit – “In the year of the Lord 1291 17th July there came to the said Lord

King at Dunfermline, Randulph, Abbot, of the same place, and noble men, Sirs

Andrew Fraser, William of Haye, Andrew of Moray, and Constantine de Loghor,

Sheriffs of Fife, and to the said Lord King of England, as over and immediate lord of

the kingdom of Scotland made fidelity, and swore, some of them, upon the High Altar

of the said Abbey, and some in the Chapter, in the presence of the venerable fathers in

Christ, Sir Antony of Durham, and Alan, Bishop of Caithness, along with noble men,

Sirs John of St. John, Patrick of Graham, and Galfrid of Moubray, knights and many

other nobles, clergymen and lay men.”

1292 - JOHN BALLIOL - KING OF SCOTLAND

1295 – KING JOHN IN DUNFERMLINE

John Balliol King of Scots

At Dunfermline relative to his Son and Heir’s Marriage – There is a treaty still

extant regarding this affair, between John Balliol, King of Scotland, and Philip IV,

King of France, for Philip to give his niece, the eldest daughter of Charles Count of

Anjou in marriage to Edward, the son and heir of Balliol, which was ratified by John

Balliol, at Dunfermline on the 23rd February 1295, where it received the assent of the

clergy, nobility, and burghs. This treaty was registered at Paris 23rd October, same

year.

King John, rebelled against Edward’s overlordship in 1296 and after the battle of

Dunbar, he resigned the kingdom and retired eventually to his French estates.

On his abdication, the King of England took the reins of government into his own

hands and treated Scotland as a conquered country, marching from Montrose against

the unorganised Scottish party, through Aberdeen, Banff, and Cullen, to Elgin and

Rothes, - the tide of war swaying, now this way, now that.

1296 - PILGRIMAGE TO DUNFERMLINE - TO THE SHRINE OF SAINT

MARGARET - THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY TRINITY AND SEPULTURE

William Wallace, born about 1270 second son of Sir Malcolm Wallace Laird of

Elderslie in Renfrewshire, his Mother Margaret de Craufuird daughter of Sir Hugh

Craufuird. His Father and brother were slaughtered 1290 on Loudoun-hill. His uncle,

who was with the church of Dunipace, saw to his education, which included sharing

the family’s patriotism and installing the love of freedom in the breast of his nephew.

Wallace returned to St Mary’s Dundee accompanied by his mother, travelling the safe

“maternal” route, and with his reputation having gone before him. After his

“education” in Dundee came to a dramatic end, with the killing of young Selby, son

of the Governor of the castle at Dundee, this was the immediate cause of his outlawry

and flight from the Governor and his English Troops. Even though the killing was in

self-defence, penance would have to be done, hence a Pilgrimage.

Wallace made his way with his mother in Pilgrim’s weed, disguised with a sword

hidden under his clothes. The Pilgrimage route was by Kilspindie, the Abbey of

Lindores, then due south to the Abbey of Dunfermline a distance of about 43 miles to

the shrine of Saint Margaret. It appears that Wallace and his mother stayed one night

in Dunfermline, setting out on the following day to Linlithgow.

The English and Flemish soldiers were now actively seeking William Wallace in

1296. It is possible that he had received his cloak and became a monk when the call

came to plead the national rising against Edward of England. The warrior monk was

not unknown in the Middle Ages in all of Europe and the Middle East.

William Wallace and his mother more than likely made numerous Pilgrimages.

Pilgrims in Medieval Scotland could move about with impunity guaranteed by the

Church and State.

THE WALLACE WELL

Is still to be seen within Pittencrieff Glen only now fallen in. It is situated on the

north edge of the rivulet, at the foot of the Tower Hill. This famous well, named the

Wallace Spa, or Well of Spa, was where Pilgrims and the inhabitants refreshed

themselves with its excellent water, but which has long since been in disuse. Tradition

in antiquity has it that Sir William Wallace, while hiding in the forest of Dunfermline

often drank from this well, out of the palm of his hand.

WALLACE’S CAVE

While work was being carried out on King Malcolm III’s Tower in 1906, a cave

was found. It had an entrance little more than a foot wide and then opened out to

approximately four feet wide. There was evidence of it having been used as a place

of habitation and there was a crude fireplace comprising of two freestones to support a

vessel. A leather sole for a horse’s hoof and several well-rusted nails were also

found.

The above map of Pittencrieff Park Dunfermline used by Sir Patrick Geddes in his 1904

study of Dunfermline shows the site of the Wallace Well and Cave. The Well has survived;

the Cave has now gone.

1296 - EDWARD 1 - ATTEMPTS TO CONQUER SCOTLAND

Edward 1 King of England

(Seal for Government of Scotland)

Edward chose a successor as an excuse to revive English claims of overlordship.

The Scots resisted his attempts to turn the chosen monarch, John Balliol, into a puppet

king and Edward again invaded on 13th August 1296.

The long war of independence with England started with Edward I‘s attempt to

conquer Scotland.

Walter Bower, continuing the “Scotichronicon” apparently from the notes of John

of Fordun, had told how Edward I ‘s quisling, John Baliol, driven to revolt, had been

dethroned by force, his army destroyed at Dunbar, the chief trading city sacked, its

inhabitants massacred in the first week of the war, and Scotland “occupied” as an

English colony.

OCCUPIED TERRITORY

To every man the hardest form of slavery

Is to serve as a slave in one’s own native country,

There, where one was wont to be free lord.

WALLACE AGAIN IN DUNFERMLINE

William Wallace was in Dunfermline again probably to escape from the English

spies, whom he would find in abundance in the Lothians. This time he made, “the

forest of Dunfermline his hiding-place” At this period the Glen of Pittencrieff was an

almost impenetrable forest extending from low grounds on the south to Balrig Burn

(Balridgeburn) on the north.

In the forest of Dunfermline the renowned Wallace appears to have had conferences

with his friends as to the propriety of delivering himself up to Edward of England on

honourable terms to save his beloved Scotland from more suffering. When these were

made known to Edward, he got “infuriated,” cursed him by the “well-known fiend,”

denounced him as “a traitor,” and set a price of 300 merks on his head. On hearing

this, the great patriot fled from the forest of Dunfermline to the mountain wilds,

subsisting on the bounty of his friends.

1296 - DUNFERMLINE’S GREAT ABBEY AND MONASTERY

DUNFERMLINE FROM THE WEST

By Robertson

In times of trouble and unrest it was not to be expected that centres of such

importance should escape attention, and Dunfermline had its own share of

molestation. Edward I had a twenty-one weeks’ march through Scotland during the

summer of this year, his object being according to Tytler and other historians, “to

destroy everything of antiquity in Scotland, to carry off its Records and men of

learning.” He appears to have been twice in Dunfermline during his progress, on June

17th, when the Sheriff of Stirling, swore fealty to Edward before the Great Altar, and

again on 13th August, on his return journey. On his return he came by way of

Markinch, and then went on to Stirling.

It is recorded in the Calendar of Documents, that the queen of Edward I and his son

Edward (the Prince of Wales and afterwards Edward II each gave a jewel to the shrine

of St. Margaret at Dunfermline. Other traces of King Edward’s occupation are noted

from the same volume, viz. a house being built at his command “extra magnam

portam abbacie de Dunfermelyn,” and forty men employed in making an

entrenchment round the town.

1297 - WALLACE’S VICTORY AT STIRLING BRIDGE

The rising of Moray and Wallace won a temporary respite. Andrew Moray died and

Wallace became sole Guardian of Scotland. In 1298 Wallace was knighted at Ettrick.

King Edward of England still refused to relinquish his claim to the Scottish Crown.

JOHN BLAIR, CHAPLAIN TO WILLIAM WALLACE.

Arnald, alias John Blair, was born in the county of Fife, in the reign of King

Alexander III and educated with Sir William Wallace, at the school of Dundee. He

went to France, studied at Paris, entered into holy orders, and became a monk of the

order of St Benedict. On his return to Scotland, he retired to the Benedictine cloister

of Dunfermline; but when Sir William Wallace was made Governor or Viceroy of the

Kingdom, in 1297, he was called out of the monastery, and made his chaplain; and

being an eye-witness of most of his actions, he composed the history of his Life in

Latin; but there is only a fragment of it, or, rather, there are only excerpts taken out of

it by some other hand, remaining.

What became of Blair after his master’s death is not certainly known; but it is highly

probable, that he retired again from the world into his monastery, and that he changed

his name from John to Arnald, which makes some authors call him John and others

Arnald (Arnold); and from the fragment still extant it is certain that he died in the

beginning of the reign of King Robert Bruce. It is said he wrote two books, the one

called “Gestae Gulielmi Wallacii,” and the other “De Liberata Tyrannide Scotiae.” It

has been supposed, that his account of the deeds of Wallace furnished materials to the

life of the warrior, by Henry the Minstrel, commonly called Blind Harry.

1303 - PILGRIMAGE TO DUNFERMLINE

There is an account, which places this Pilgrimage of Wallace and his Mother to

Dunfermline in the autumn of 1303. From this period downward to the present time a

tradition has held its ground that the mother of Wallace died at Dunfermline on her

son’s flight and that she was hastily buried at a spot in the northern churchyard,

marked by a “THORN TREE”.

This site was that of the Abbey Weeping Cross (the Churchyard Weeping Cross),

which, at the time of the Reformation was destroyed, and the Gospel tree or thorn

erected in its stead on the site.

If this tradition is correct the interment must have taken place a few weeks before

King Edward I of England and his Court took up their winter quarters in the

Monastery. It is possible that once the haughty monarch heard of this event and the

part played by the abbot and monks in the interment it may have been one of the

reasons, which induced Edward to have the Monastery fired, when he left

Dunfermline in 1304.

1304 - DUNFERMLINE MONASTERY BURNED!

During Edward I of England’s visit to Dunfermline, which covered most of the

winter of 1303, ninety-seven days in all and on the morning of his departure for

Cambuskenneth, 10th

February 1304, perceiving that the temple of the Lord was not a

church but `a den of thieves` and, as it were `a thorn in the eye` of the English nation.

He repaid the hospitality he had received by giving orders to his men to destroy the

monastery by fire. The army of the King sent rope and hooks and, levelling

everything, cloisters, walls and palaces to the ground utterly demolished them, only

the church being saved from burning and a few houses for the monks who constituted

the competent and regular staff.

King Edward I of England according to Rotuli Scotiae appears to have been in

Dunfermline for the fifth time (so far as is known) on the 1st day of May 1304.

A Latin version of the story, from the English point of view, is to be found in detail

in Flores Historiarum -

“Now there were in Scotland two most famous abbeys, very rich in resources and

very strongly fortified in the matter of buildings, to wit, Aberbrothock (Arbroath) and

Dunfermline.

Furthermore, Dunfermline below its fortifications is exceedingly spacious,

comprising three carrucates of land, enclosing in itself many, as it were, royal palaces,

in such a manner that three renowned kings with their train were able at one and the

same time to lodge there, each one separately, without being subjected to wrongful

treatment from either of the others.

For that reason, because of the enormous capacity of the place, the elders of the

kingdom of Scotland had been accustomed to assemble there and to frame plots

against the king of England, and frequently in time of war going forth as though from

lurking places, they resorted to plundering raids and sanguinary attacks upon the

English people.

Perceiving therefore that the temple of the Lord was not a church but `a den of

thieves` and, as it were `a thorn in the eye` of the English nation, the army of the king

sent rope and hooks and levelling everything, cloisters, walls and palaces to the

ground, utterly demolished them, only the church being saved from burning and a few

houses for the monks who constituted the competent and regular staff.

Thereafter certain robbers, having united with themselves very many other evil-

doers, went forth secretly from the camp of the king of England and came

unexpectedly to the celebrated monastery of Dunfermline with swords and clubs.

Breaking through the centre of the hall of the abbey right into the chapel, where the

ministers of God, two hundred monks, had assembled to pray or to sing the psalms, by

sword, bow and missile they threatened with death any of the monks who left the

place. They were divided into three companies, one of which guarded their entrance

and a second their way of egress, terrifying the servants of God. The remaining

company, bent on pillage, shattered the closets and the chests for the religious utensils

round the altar, and in the entrance court, everywhere in the treasury of the Lord. And

they sacrilegiously carried away crosses, pitchers, pyxes, cruets, censers and vessels

for offerings, which, merely on account of their great number, mention need not be

made of individual items.

In connection with these, a much bruited report spread abroad that the monks each

possessed one jug or flask, cup, spoon and dish of silver. All these, the miscreants

stole, and carried off.

Accordingly an outcry was raised and came to the hearing of the king. The king of

England, while he was still directing his course thither and when he was still a long

way off, saw holy men sitting by the way side here and there, holding their heads,

clad in sacred robes and in raiment made of goats,’ hair, awaiting the arrival of his

most gracious majesty.

Gazing at them, the king in wonder inquired who they were.

To him the count of Lincoln said: - `My Lord, these are monks of this place which

was plundered the day before yesterday, ` Moved by compassion, the king said to

them: - `Return into the tabernacles of your house, ` Moreover the king was there for

several days discoursing and associating with them, and he gave instructions under

threat of hanging that an investigation should be made and that, after all its vessels

had been restored to the monastery, the perpetrators of the crime should be outlawed

for ever.

And so it came to pass.”

Edward I was with Constantine Mortimer at Aberdour when word was brought to

him of the capture of Sir William Wallace. The lands of Aberdour were later thus

forfeited, and were conferred by Bruce upon his nephew, Randolph, Earl of Moray.

King Edward I then took his departure from Dunfermline. The work of rebuilding

was quickly taken up by Robert the Bruce who gave all possible assistance, though,

with the enemy still in occupation of much of the country, progress can hardly have

been otherwise then slow. “1329 – And to the Abbot of Dunfermline for the fabric of

the Refectory - £66.13s.4d.”

1305 - THE DEATH OF WALLACE

Tradition has it that when Wallace was hung, drawn, and quartered his head went to

the tower and his other bodily parts were hung in Newcastle Perth and Aberdeen.

John Blair, Monk of Dunfermline Abbey and others ingathered these bodily parts and

brought some of them to Dunfermline and placed them in the Churchyard of the Holy

Sepulture beside his mother.

The Thorn Tree

`This Thorn Tree belongs to the heart of every Scotsman, as

associated with the liberty and moral grandeur of his native land`

1307 - THE DEATH OF EDWARD 1 - AND HIS HATRED OF SCOTLAND

In 1307 when he saw that he should die, he called before him his eldest son, who

was King after him, and there before all the barons, he caused him to swear that as

soon as he was dead that he should take his body and boil it in a cauldron till the flesh

departed clean from the bones, and then to bury the flesh and keep still the bones; and

that as often as the Scots should rebel against him, he should assemble his people

together against them, and carry with him the bones of his father, for he believed

verily that if they had his bones with him, that the Scots would never attain any

victory against them. The new King did not comply.

WHAT THEY FOUGHT FOR –

Not glory, nor wealth, nor honour, but freedom only,

Which no good man abandons save with his life.

In A.D. 84 the Roman General Agricola pushed north from the Roman province of

Britannia, and sought to bring unconquered Caledonia into the Empire. The

Caledonian tribes elected a leader called Calgacus “one of the three worthies of

Britain”. The speech this highland leader gave before the battle of Mons Graupius is

precisely in the spirit of William Wallace or of the Declaration of Arbroath. Calgacus

had Wallace’s luck. Agricola won the battle but lost the campaign. The words and

beliefs held in spirit by Calgacus and Wallace have carried down through the Scottish

people to this day. It was from that speech given, and recorded, in the biography of

Agricola’s son-in-law Cornelius Tacitus, that Wallace’s was taught from his uncle a

priest, and, as others were, and are, taught to this day.

“I tell you the truth, freedom, is the finest of things;

Never live under a servile yoke my son.” John of Fordun

THE WALLACE HAWTHORN TREE

Dear to the patriot is the sacred spot

Where Freedom’s battles have been bravely fought;

Dear to his nation is the chieftain’s name

Who fired their bosoms with heroic flame,

And led them on, a bleeding noble band,

To drive invaders from their native land.

Well, such was Wallace; and how can it be

We should forget “Wallace Hawthorn Tree!”

“We love the memory of the lowly maid Who gives her life her suffering sire to aid?

We love to see the manly stalwart son, Down whose brave cheeks the burning dew-drops run;

While o’er his mother’s grave in grief he bends, Himself, meanwhile, the stay of other friends.

Well, such was Wallace – the renowned, the brave- In finial sorrow at his mother’s grave.

Yet, Wallace wept, with manly grief while he Planted his monumental `Hawthorn Tree.”

No costly ornamental pomp displayed The secret where his mother’s corpse was laid,

Lest the proud Southerners, in their barbarous hands, Should touch her dear remains with vengeful hands.

Thus in his wisdom and his love he sought For his loved mother’s grave a peaceful spot. Come life or death to him, she safe might be

In peaceful rest beneath the “Hawthorn Tree.”

Oh, Scotland! Scotland! bitter was thy grief, When Wallace was betray’d – thy glorious chief.

Betray’d and murder’d and his body given To feed the unoffending fowls of heaven. Well had he done his native land to save-

Well had he done to shield his mother’s grave- Well had he done to break the invading host,

Ere by his treacherous friends his life was lost. And well may Scotland proud of Wallace be,

And for his sake protect this “Hawthorn Tree.”

“Long has it stood since planted by his hand, Long may it still in beauteous blossom stand;

And were I rich, around it I would raise, A gentle fence to shield it “many days,”

And draw the stranger to the sacred spot, Dear to each patriot, dear to every Scot;

And every Scot that boasts his country free, Should sacred keep the “Wallace Hawthorn Tree.”

Henry Syme.

The Wallace Thorn in Dunfermline Churchyard

By Thomas Morrison

It stands within an old churchyard,

Beside an old church tower,

Where thousands sleeping `neath the sward,

Await Time’s final hour.

‘Twas said on earth long since by one

To Fame and Freedom dear,

A sacred tribute from a son

To mark a mother’s bier.

But since its fragile roots first spread

Their fibres in the clay,

Long changeful centuries have fled

On silent wing away.

But still it buds and blossoms here,

And tells where long ago

A hero shed the finial tear

On her who rests below.

Ah! Oft we gaze with thoughtful eye

Upon this grassy mound;

Oft scan yon airy turrets high,

With scroll and symbol crowned.

Their rests beneath them one whose name

Is known throughout each clime,

Whose memory fades not whose fame

Dims with the lapse of time.

But still more patriot-souled was he,

In battle not less brave,

Who, sorrowing set this hawthorn tree

Here on this nameless grave.

The feats achieved by Wallace wight

Our records proudly tell;

He fought and bled for Scotland’s right,

He triumphed and he fell.

But now, when o`er his dust long years

Of centuries dim have rolled,

Than his no nobler name appears

On Fame`s bright banner scrolled.

Ah, Wallace! that sad scene of woe,

Those closing hours of thine

Still cheque the exulting tears which flow

At Bruce`s sacred shrine.