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—–READ ALL Biermaster™ INSTRUCTIONS & TIPS BEFORE STARTING TO BREW—— 7 www.barkingside.com Minneapolis, Minnesota 55423 winemaking brewing tea coffee 1137N Biermaster™ Brewing Equipment Kit-Auto Operating Instructions 101615 Barkingside Co Minneapolis, Minnesota United States of America Tel. # 612-869-4445 www.barkingside.com Minneapolis, Minnesota 55423

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Page 1: 1137N brewing Operating Instructions - barkingside.com · Barkingside Co Minneapolis, Minnesota United States of America Tel. # 612-869-4445 Minneapolis, Minnesota 55423 . 1 INTRODUCTION

—–READ ALL Biermaster™ INSTRUCTIONS & TIPS BEFORE STARTING TO BREW——

7

www.barkingside.com

Minneapolis, Minnesota 55423

winemaking

brewing

tea

coffee

1137N Biermaster™

Brewing Equipment Kit-Auto

Operating Instructions 101615

Barkingside Co Minneapolis, Minnesota United States of America

Tel. # 612-869-4445 www.barkingside.com

Minneapolis, Minnesota 55423

Page 2: 1137N brewing Operating Instructions - barkingside.com · Barkingside Co Minneapolis, Minnesota United States of America Tel. # 612-869-4445 Minneapolis, Minnesota 55423 . 1 INTRODUCTION

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INTRODUCTION

1137N Biermaster™ KIT-SCREWTOP AUTO

Includes: 6.5 gal. Screw Top Fermenter (5104S), 6.5 Drilled Rubber Stopper(4404), Bottling Bucket (5122), Premium Italian Spigot (8102), Buon Vino 3-piece Airlock (4001), Bottle Brush (3401), Auto Siphon (4723), 6' AND 2’ 5/16" Syphon Tubing (4703), Bottle filler - Non spring (4707), Liquid Crystal Thermometer Strip (5821), Hydrometer (5808), Deluxe Test Cylinder (5878), 60 Crown Caps (3801), One Step Cleanser 2 oz (75102) & Red Baron Capper (3509)

LIQUID CRYSTAL THERMOMETER

STRIP (5821) - An adhesive

thermometer which you attach 5"

above the base on the outside of

the 6.5 gallon fermenter to moni-tor the fermenting temperature.

Keep fermenting temperature at a

constant 68° & 75°F.

CAPPER (3509) - For capping beer bottles. Place a crown cap in the bottom of the magnetic capsule and place capper over the bottle open-ing. Crimp cap onto the bottle by bringing the double level down to the horizontal level posi-tion. The bottle is now capped. You may have to practice on a few bottles to get the hang of it!

#6 1/2 DRILLED RUBBER STOP-PER (4404)— For use with Airlock, Carboy and Lid on Fermenter for an airtight seal.

BOTTLING BUCKET (5122) & BOTTLING SPIGOT (8102) - To be installed on to the bottling bucket. First, wet spigot and washers. Place 1 washer on the spigot then insert spigot from outside of fermenter through the 1” hole. Place the other gasket on the spigot against the interior bottling bucket wall and hand tighten

with the nut while the other hand is holding the spigot body, we mean the spigot body from outside the fermenter. Hand tighten only until the spigot body do not turn when you try to turn the spigot body clockwise or counter clockwise. The 2 gaskets are now securely touching the walls of the inside and outside bottling bucket. Test the bottling bucket for leak before bottling beer by filling it with water. Hold spigot body and turn clockwise and counter-clockwise. If it turns, retighten spigot nut and spigot body to bottling bucket until it does not turn. Be careful not to smash spigot while moving bottling bucket. You are now ready for bottling!

AIRLOCK (4001) - Also known as a fermentation lock; allows carbon dioxide gas to escape while at the same time preventing foreign substances & oxygen to come in contact with the fermenting beer. For the Airlock to work, it needs to be filled half-way with clean water before attaching to top of lid.

6.5 GALLON SCREW TOP FERMENTER (5104S) (Primary Fermenter) — Use for primary fermentation and as a bottling/holding tank for your fermented beer. When making 6.0 gallon batch of beer, top up to 5 to 5.5 gallon in the primary fermenter with filtered water. As compared to other fermenters, this one is user friendly. The premium screw top lid that comes with this fermenter allow easy opening and resealing. Easy on the hands and fingers! It has a unique trigger mechanism that automatically locks the lid when closing, and has a simple finger-activated release to allow the lid to be opened. Does not require a pail opening tool to open and reseal the pail as compared to some kits that

include a rigid lid which can be painful to open back up. Prepare your 6.5 gallon fermenter by printing gallon marks with a permanent marker on the outside using a 1 gallon water jug to fill and print gallon marks on pail. Do not over tighten lid, as long as air bubbling out of Airlock is airtight.

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XVI. To make a low alcohol beer: Just make 4 gallons instead of 6 gallons of beer (Skip the addition of 2.2lbs to 3lbs of Dried Malt Extract when making a low alcohol beer, so all that is needed is the 4 lb beer kit, water and yeast). XVII. To make a high alcohol beer: Just add another lb of DME. Do not add more than 6 lbs of DME in a 6 gallon batch of beer. Fermentation may take longer to complete with the use of additional DME. SOLUTION TO SEEPAGE OR LEAKY SPIGOT AFTER WORT IS IN FERMENTER 1. Thoroughly wash and rinse your hand and arm and reach into the fermenter and tighten the spigot

nut while carefully holding the spigot body on the outside of the fermenter with your other hand. Always hand tighten only until the spigot body will not turn when you try to turn the spigot body clockwise. Be gentle!

2. If there is still moistness, seepage, or small leaks around the spigot, place a bowl or container

underneath for the next 7-14 days or until is ready to bottle your beer. This method is also used in the wine and beer industry.

SPIGOT INSTALLATION: When installing spigot, first remove 1 washer from the spigot. Slide the Spigot with washer through the fermenter. Then slide washer over Spigot threads inside the fermenter and hand tighten with Nut. After hand tightening, hold the nut in place and turn the spigot into position and tighten again for a tight seal—DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Fill and test fermenter/bottling bucket with water for leaks before using. Additional spigots are available on our website and at our store.

Biermaster™ KIT SERIES

Make an import beer everyone will enjoy. Make a perfect batch of beer each time and every time you brew with these Biermaster kits. Is so simple to brew every household should have one as part of their kitchen essentials, just like pots and pans. Make not just 1 gallon or 2 gallons, but 5.5 to 6 gallons of great tasting import beer to share with family and friends — that’s about 55 to 60 bottles of beer. There are over 20 varieties of very convenient beer ingredient kits to Biermaster from. (Note: it takes approxi-mately the same amount of time to brew whether it is 1 gallon, 2 gallons or 6 gallons of beer, so….. ) These Biermaster kits are for homebrewer who does not have time to go through the partial or all grain brewing which could take from 3 to 8 hours or longer to brew a batch. With our Biermaster kit you can make great tasting import beer in approximately an hour from start to pitching the yeast into the wort. With Biermaster, you will be spending less time and money at the city liquor store and instead spending more time with family and friends. This Biermaster kit is a great gift for anyone who wants to experience the fun of brewing and enjoying great beer — while saving money as compared to liquor store beer. The Biermaster kit may include a 3.3lb or 4lb beer ingredient kit and dried malt extract to make your first batch of all malt imported beer. When you are ready to brew your 2nd batch, all you need is an-other 3.3lb or 4lb beer kit, 3lbs of Dried Malt Extract and a bag of crown caps. Our Biermaster kit is truly a joy to brew your favorite beer batch after batch after batch...... And if, after a few batches of homebrew beer with your Biermaster kit, you decide to make a clearer, smoother and cleaner tasting beer, you can transform this Biermaster kit to a 2 stage by just acquiring a 5 or 6 gallon glass carboy and a carboy brush. With an additional airlock and #6 1/2 drilled rubber stop-per, you can actually ferment 2 batches of beer at the same time with this versatile brewing kit. You can also do partial mash and all-grain beer with this Biermaster Kit. Is versatile! We make it simple to brew and we make it simple to upgrade without making any parts redundant.

Page 3: 1137N brewing Operating Instructions - barkingside.com · Barkingside Co Minneapolis, Minnesota United States of America Tel. # 612-869-4445 Minneapolis, Minnesota 55423 . 1 INTRODUCTION

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VIII. Avoid unnecessary movement of the fermenter during bottling, this will reduce the amount of sediment going into the bottle. IX. To avoid potential off-flavors/off-odors, sometimes referred to as "skunky", keep your fermenter out of light, particularly if you are using a glass carboy. Wrap with a towel if you do not have a dark place to keep the fermenter or carboy. X. Clean the spigot and other Biermaster kit parts by soaking and cleaning with a non abrasive sponge in warm one step cleanser solution and rinsing with hot water. Wear rubber gloves! One way to clean the siphon kit is to soak the siphon kit in warm cleanser solution and run hot water through the siphon system for 1-3 minutes by sticking the tubing end underneath the faucet opening. If you happen to disassemble the system apply a little bit of petroleum jelly to the ends of racking cane when putting the parts back together (moistening the ends with hot water will work too!). XI. Biermaster Kit parts will eventually wear out, how long before this happens will depend on the indi-vidual brewer. We have made it simple to order replacements as all parts are listed with picture and item number and are easily available at www.barkingside.com. XII. It is important to center the spigot on the fermenter hole while hand tightening during installation. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, BUT TIGHTEN to a point where the SPIGOT body WILL NOT TURN WHEN YOU TRY TURNING THE SPIGOT BODY CLOCKWISE. FILL FERMENTER WITH WATER AND TEST FOR ANY LEAKS with a dry paper towel and visual inspection around spigot. IF IT LEAKS, check if the spigot is centered on the hole and RE-TIGHTEN as described above. Always moisten gaskets when installing on to the fermenter. DO THIS STEP A DAY AHEAD and you will have fun brewing the next day!! XIII. Allow fermentation to complete before bottling. Do not open the screw top or gasketed lid during the fermentation process, wild yeast and bacteria may get into the fermenting wort and may cause beer to spoil. When fermented beer is bottled too soon or when too much priming sugar is in the bottle, it may cause the bottled beer to explode and this can be dangerous and glass shards and fines will be dangerous, messy and hard to clean up. And if there is not enough priming sugar in the bottle, the beer will be flat. Bottled beer can be stored up to 5 months at below 70°F and longer with high gravity beers. Enjoy all your bottled beer — when your beer runs low, just make another batch and try another style and flavor! XIV. It is dangerous if your beer is over carbonated. To safely handle over carbonated beer, place bottle in box and refrigerate for 24-48 hours at the coolest setting. Do not put bottle in freezer. Do not shake bottle. When bottle is very cold (the cold will slow down the Co2 from releasing from the liquid beer when bottle is open), uncap bottle and let sit at room temperature for ~15-30 minutes with cap loosely placed over bottle to prevent dust from getting into the bottle. Now instead of gushing beer, you can now see air bubbles being slowly released from the liquid beer. You can save the beer by recapping beer bottle with new crown cap. There will still be carbonation at this time, British style! but the carbonation is now at a safer level. Shelf life for the beer in the bottle will now be shorter, so…. enjoy! Prolonged aging will improve beer flavor. Store your bottled beer in boxes at below 70°F. XV. Do you want to customize your beer? Try an ounce of hops, we have over 65 varieties to choose from. Just boil or steep for 20 to 30 minutes in the hot water it calls for in the brewing instructions. When is done boiling or steeping the hops, add the can of beer kit and DME and finish the brewing process. We have disposable t-sac filter bags and hop boiling bags for containing the hop sediments when boiling or steeping the hops. The beer yield will be higher with the use of a filter bag.

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BOTTLE BRUSH (3401) - For cleaning beer bottles.

The Muntons Premium range was developed for the original four kits in the early days of English home-brewing. Makes 6 gallons. Formulations for this range have purposely not been changed since they were first developed back in the early 1970's - a tremendous heritage and a proven track record. The Premium range has been extended to include styles of beer from far reaches of the world. American Style Light, Canadian Style Beer, Scottish Style Heavy Ale, Old Ale and so on. The Premium range allows home beer-makers to experience flavors from around the world in their own homes, enjoyably and economically. Once again the Muntons Premium range is made entirely from 100% hopped malt extract with no adjuncts. There is one notable exception to this, however - the American Style Light Beer. To emulate the light delicate character of this popular beer style it was necessary to include in the kit a percentage of liquid sugar. This is the only beer kit in the extensive Muntons ranges made from anything other than 100% hopped malt extract.

ONE STEP CLEANSER (75102) - Usage: 1 Tablespoon per gallon of warm water. Read label for specific instructions. Wash the bottles and equipment with one step cleanser solution and rinse with hot water.

MUNTONS DRIED MALT EXTRACT, 3 lb. (16013—16053 )

HYDROMETER - A very useful instrument for measuring the beginning &

final specific gravity of beer/wine. It aids in monitoring the fermentation

process & indicates when fermentation is complete and shows the potential alcohol content in your wine. To use: Carefully place the hydrometer in the

test cylinder and fill with a sample of the beer/wine (fill until the hydrome-

ter floats) to be tested. Spin the hydrometer to dislodge air bubbles. Read

at eye level the scale on the hydrometer where the surface of the must/wine cuts across the hydrometer. For more information please read the

instruction sheet that accompanies the hydrometer. To determine the

potential alcohol of a beer/wine, a reading has to be taken before the

fermentation starts (just before pitching yeast into the wort/must) and after the fermentation has stopped. You obtain the potential alcohol read-

ing by subtracting the difference of the 2 readings. The hydrometer can

also measure % sugar (balling scale on the hydrometer) in juice or any

sugar drinks.

TEST CYLINDER - Use with the

Triple Scale Hydrometer.

Bottle Filler (4707) - To bottle beer or wine, Connect bottle filler to 2' tubing and the other tubing end to spigot. Place bottle filler in bottle and turn spigot valve on and syphon into bottles. To stop bottling lift up the bottle filler.

AUTO SIPHON KIT - Includes: 2’ and 6' of 5/16” siphon tubing (4703) and auto

siphon (4723). To use: Connect the auto siphon to the 5/16” siphon tubing. To start

siphoning: Place the auto siphon end into the primary fermenter (several inches below the beer/wine) and place the siphon tubing end in the secondary fermenter.

The secondary (carboy) or primary (fermenting pail) must be lower than the other

to create a siphoning action. Draw the racking cane up and down a couple of

strokes until the siphon starts. To stop the siphon just lift the auto siphon end out of the beer/wine. If you are siphoning beer/wine without any sediment, you can

remove the press-on-tip (on the auto siphon) to allow more beer/wine to be si-

phoned and to minimize waste. Always sanitize/rinse siphoning equipment before

and after use. TIP: Use a thin coat of petroleum jelly (available at grocery stores) to assist with the connection of tubing, bottle filler and racking tube.

Page 4: 1137N brewing Operating Instructions - barkingside.com · Barkingside Co Minneapolis, Minnesota United States of America Tel. # 612-869-4445 Minneapolis, Minnesota 55423 . 1 INTRODUCTION

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YOUR KITCHEN EQUIPMENT & INGREDIENTS you will need at Brewing and Bottling stages: 3 gallon pot; 12” or longer spoon; Can Opener; Cleaned 8 oz cup; 5—6 gallons of filtered water; 50-60 12 oz RETURNABLE BEER bottles (NOT screw top beer bottles);

The Biermaster™ instructions will get you started in brewing your very 1st batch of great tasting im-

port beer. The premium Muntons, Mountmellick or Coopers beer kit you have selected will produce approximately 5-6 gallons of import beer (approx. 5% alcohol by volume) in approximately 14 days. Once you are familiar with the basic principles of this brewing system, you will be able to make a wide range of other import beer styles using this Biermaster kit. There are more than 20 import beer kits to choose from. You will enjoy brewing and drinking your 1st glass of import beer with this Biermaster kit. We have included the manufacturer’s brewing instructions (geared for British audience) for your refer-ence as there are many ways to brew a batch of beer. But for your first time at brewing beer, we recom-mend following the BIERMASTER INSTRUCTIONS to brew your first and many batches thereafter.

Biermaster™ INSTRUCTIONS for brewer with 3.3 or 4 lbs beer kit and 3lb bag DME

((TIPS: With the 3lb bag of dried malt extract (DME), you save 1 1/2 measuring cup DME for later use in carbonating your homemade beer and use the remaining DME (approx. 6 cup) in your 6 gallon batch of beer when beer kit calls for additional ~2.2lbs of brewing sugar OR if you prefer use our Liquid Malt Extract, 3 lbs Jug when recipe calls for additional ~2.2lbs of brewing sugar and in this case for priming use DME or Corn Sugar.))

(Read entire instructions THOROUGHLY prior to start of brewing) Always clean all equipment and utensils before and after use with one step cleanser (or a similar cleanser) and rinse with hot water. With your Muntons 4.0lbs (or 3.3lbs) Beer Kit, take the label off the can and remove the yeast from underneath the cap. Before opening, wash can and heat the unopened can in a pot of boiling water for 5 minutes. Open can and dissolve contents of the beer kit can in 1 gallon of hot filtered water. Add -3 lb bag of dried malt extract Add -3 lb bag of dried malt extract ((with 1 1/2 cup DME saved for later use in carbonating your beer) or (for a less distinct malt flavor add entire 3lb jug of liquid malt extract)) slowly and stir constantly to fully dissolve, and gently simmer for 10-15 minutes, watch out for boil-over. ((Side Step: While wort is simmering, prepare yeast culture by pouring 6 oz of hot filtered water (approximately 104°F) into a cleaned 8 oz cup and add brewing yeast, cover with a clean paper towel, set aside allowing the yeast to rehydrate for 10 minutes)) Add 1 gallon of clean, filtered water to the pot of wort and stir for 5 minutes before pouring it into the 6.5 gallon fermenter already filled with 1 gallon of water. Top up 6.5 gallon primary fermenter to 5 gallon mark with water when making a 5 or 6 gallon batch of beer to achieve a brewing temperature of 75°F (±3°F). The temperature reached may be higher if you are brewing in a warmer part of the country and vice versa if you are in a colder part of the coun-try. (Do Not over fill the fermenter as approximately 1 1/2 gallon of head space (empty space in the fermenter) is needed for vigorous fermentation and foaming, you can always top it up to 5 or 6 gallon in the bottling bucket with clean filtered water just before bottling.) Stir and pitch yeast from above Side Step directly into the fermenter and stir with a spoon for 5 minutes. It is important that the yeast is added as soon as the brew is mixed. Seal the fermenter with the gasketed lid and make airtight with the airlock and rubber stopper. Do not over tighten lid (or you may need a pail opening tool to remove lid) as long as air comes out through the airlock during fermentation it will be fine. Fill airlock 1/3 with clean filtered water before attaching to top of lid. Fermentation will start in 2-4 days and will continue for approximately 7-11 days at a constant 72°F (±3°F). Allow another 3-7 days to finish fermenting and yeast to settle to the bottom. Overall, from when you initially pitch in the yeast allow a total of 14 days of fermenting at a constant of 72°F (±3°F). Your beer should than be ready for bottling.

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You can also verify bottling readiness by checking the following: air bubbles will stop rising through the airlock and remains steady for 2 to 3 consecutive days (or when apparent foaming recedes) or if you use a hydrometer and the Finishing Specific Gravity is below~1.008, the beer is ready for bottling. If you are still unsure, take a sample from the spigot; if it tastes like flat beer, it is ready to bottle. If it taste sweet, allow another 3 days before bottling. To bottle beer: Syphon fermented beer into bottling bucket with Connected 2’ siphon tubing to bottling spigot at one end and bottle filler at other end of tubing. Dissolve 1 1/2 level measuring cup of DME in 1 pint of hot water if you are making a 6 gallon batch of beer. Stir DME/water mixture into beer, top up to 6 gallon mark with clean filtered water if you desire a slightly lighter body beer, stir to mix and fill beer into clean bottle. Filling will start when the bottle filler touches the bottom of the bottle. (Don’t forget to turn on the valve of the bottling spigot.) To stop bottling, lift up the bottle filler. It is natural for the bottle filler to drip be-tween fillings. Cap and Store bottles upright in bottle case at approximately 72°F for a week to condition. Conditioning is the process where the yeast in the beer ferments the priming sugar added at bottling causing a secondary fermentation in the bottle thus creating the natural car-bonation for the bottled beer. After a week of conditioning, the beer will continue to improve with further aging of approximately 3—4 weeks (longer for higher gravity beers) at 55-65°F or below 70°F if you do not have the ideal temperature of 55-65°F. During aging, the beer will clear with yeast deposits in the bottom of the bottle as a symbol of a naturally homebrewed beer. The beer is now ready for your enjoyment. The beer is best when served chilled. Uncap a bottle and pour gently and continuously into your glass and leave any yeast slurry or sediments behind.

ADDITIONAL BREWING TIPS FOR MODEL 1128,1137M(E) AND 1137N(E): I. Always clean, sanitize and rinse all equipment before and after use. II. Use clean filtered water. Many grocery stores offer refillable filtered drinking water. A clean water

pitcher filter will do equally as well (use a fresh filter cartridge for making beer). Do not use dis-tilled water.

III. Temperature can be monitored by adhering a self adhesive liquid crystal thermometer strip to the

outside of the fermenter. IV. Wash crown caps in hot water just before using to cap bottles. V. 2 common types of sugar you can use to prime your beer include dried malt extract and corn sugar VI. The following priming options is for Biermaster model 1128: A. Amount of corn sugar for each of the following size bottle: 3/4 level tsp per 12 oz bottle 1 level tsp per 16 oz bottle 1 1/2 level tsp per 22 oz bottle

VII. The following priming options is for Biermaster model 1137M(E), 1137N(E) and kit with a bottling bucket or secondary fermenter (carboy): B. Amount of Dried Malt Extract aka DME: 1 1/4 level measuring cup dissolve in 1 pint of hot water per 5 gallon beer or 1 1/2 level measuring cup dissolve in 1 pint of hot water per 6 gallon beer. C. Amount of Corn Sugar aka Dextrose: 3/4 level measuring cup (4.25 oz) corn sugar in 1 pint hot water per 5 gallon beer or 1 level measuring cup (5.1 oz) corn sugar in 1 pint hot water per 5.5-6 gallon beer.