10t_manualc

8/2/2019 10t_manualc

1/12

Figs. 130 & 131 Place your servo on yourassis, where shown, and take a pencil and go arounde servo outlining the servo on the chassis. Now, take aece of the #4326 servo tape, cut it off and stick it to thettom of the servo. This stuff is very sticky, so be carefulposition it right the first time. Peel off the backing. Now,ycarefully position the servo directly above your pencill ineand press the servo against the chassis very firmly.

Fig. 130

Fig. 131

Figs. 132 & 133 Positionthearmontheservoraight up. Center the servo saver left to right. Noweasure the distance between the center of the ball on thervoarm and the center of the ball on the servo saver andkethe #7552 final turnbuckle to that length. Snap on the

Fig. 132page 35

Fig. 13

o Fig. 134 Install the #6338 antenna mount onchassis, where shown, with a flat head 4/40 x 1/2" scre

' 11 1 1 \ \ 1 \ \ 11 1 14-40 X 1/2

Fig. 13


2/12

Figs. 135 & 136 From 8ag 7-7 take one ofe #6334 battery cup out and screw the two 4/40 x 1/2"HeS screws in, as shown. One screw will have a veryall hole in the head. The screws DO NOT go all the waywn. There must be enough room between the screwead and battery cup for the #6335 battery strap to mountnd swing freely.

Install the strap by placing the end of the straparked "8" over the screw head that has no hole. Slide therap over into the groove and then slip the "A" end overe screw head with the hole in it. Slip the #6332 body clipto the hole.

Fig. 135

Fig. 136page 36

oFig. 137 Install the battery cup in the chassistwo flat head 4/40 x 1/2" screws where shown.

Fig. 1

oFigs. 138 & 139 Time to put the horsepowin the car. This kit does not come with a motor. We hirecommend REEDY motors. You will have to pick upmotor, motor mounting screws, and the correct pinfrom your local dealer. You will need to solder on the mlead wires and filter capacitors to the motor accordingthe instructions included with the motor and/or spcontrol. Make sure that you are using ROSIN core soto makeyour electrical connections. Your dealer shouldable to recommend the correct pinion for the motordecide to run. We no longer can recommend a pinion gbecause of the wide range of pinion sizes used, evenstock motors, due to some of the improved performanin motors. As a starting point, the end of the pinion shobe even with the end of the motor shaft.

Fig. 1


3/12

Fig. 139Figs. 140 & 141 Slip the motor in the motorount and start the bottom screw in first. Do not tighten alleway down yet. On the top screw, put a washer on thecrew and screw it in, but not tight. NOTE: Most motors areported and use 3mm mounted screws, which are differ-nt from the rest of the fasteners in the kit. Make sure youo not mix them up.

Now we'll setthe gear mesh. By moving the uppercrew forward or back, we'll be moving the motor closer tor away from the plastic spur gear. What we want to do iset the metal pinion gear as close to the plastic spur gearswe can without binding up the gears. The easy way toheck this is to put your finger on the plastic gear and seeou can rock it in the teeth of the metal gear. The twoears should be as close as possible, while still being ablevery slightly rock the plastic gear. When you have thisorrect spacing, tighten down on the two motor screwsnd re-check the gear spacing. An incorrect gear meshan result In a huge power loss, so do it correctly.

Fig. 140page 37

Fig. 14

o Figs. 142 & 143 Trim around the outsidethe #6608 dust cover, cut out the center button hole ainstall with two 4-40 x 1/4" SHeS and washers. CAUTIONto remove the motor, you must first remove the dust coveYou will then have four screws out that look the same. Bifyou mix up the dust cover screws with the motor screwyou will strip out the threads. Keep the motor screws wthe motor, and the dust cover screws with the dust coveAlso, DO NOT try to use aluminum screws to attach tdust cover, because the screws will break off whmounting the dust cover.

Fig. 14


4/12

Fig. 143

o Figs. 143 & 144 You will be able to makeclutch adjustments easily by removing only the button. Onslippery tracks, slip the clutch a little more. On hightraction tracks, tighten it up a little more. You can adjust theclutch to your driving style. Make sure you always reinstallthe button.

page 38

RADIO INSTALLATIONChoose a good radio! FUTABA and AIRTRON1CS aremost popular, but there's also some other good oavailable. If you're going to race in competition, getbest radio you can afford.

Some radio systems come with one servo andESC(Electronic Speed Control). Ifyour system comes wan ESC, make sure you've chosen a good one. Mracers prefer to buy their ESC separately, choosing fNOVAK, TEKIN, and others. VERY IMPORTANT: msure you choose a servo that's strong enough andenough to do the job in a truck.o Fig. 145 Position your receiver close toantenna and servo tape it into place. Feed the antenwire up through the antenna hole in the antenna mouand then through the antenna tube. Use the full antenlength. Do not shorten it. Push the antenna into the moand tie wrap the excess antenna together. DO Nshorten the antenna wire.

POSitionyour ESC where shown and servo tapin place. Remember, you want to keep the power (larwires on your ESC as short as possible.


5/12

Fig. 14

Fig. 146 The arrow shows a popular p lace tou nt y ou r E SC O N/O FF sw itch . It's e asy to re ach w ith th ed y on.

Fig. 146page 39


6/12

Fig. 147 Your completed radio installation shouldok like this.

Fig. 1

o INSTALL THE RADIO PERTHE RADIO MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS.o INSTALL THE ESC (Electronic Speed Control) PER THE ESC MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS.o INSTALL THE MOTOR PER THE MOTOR MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS,o CHARGE AND INSTALL THE BATTERIES PER THE BATIERY CHARGER MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTION

page 40


7/12

HEELS AND TIRESTHE TIRES IN YOUR KIT MAY LOOK DIFFERENT

OMTHETIRES INTHEPHOTOS. WEPUTINTHEBESTIRES FOR MOST CONDITIONS, REPLACING THEM ASRE DESIGN ADVANCES.Figs. 148 & 149 Take the #7820 rear tire andsert the #7800 sleeve into the tire. Do both tires.

Fig. 149Figs. 150 & 151 Make sure the sleeves are

entered in the tires. The inside half of the wheel has theig hole in the center. The inside halves of the front andear wheels are exactly the same.

. Take one of the inside wheel halves with the bigole In It and one of the outside halves with the verymallest hole in it. Push the inside wheel half into the tireeating the tire evenly. Push the outside wheel half into th~ire, making sure to keep the screw holes lined up. Also,ke sure the tire is seated evenly. Install the four longest

/40 x 5/8" screws. Do not overtighten. Do the other reareel and tire.

Fig. 15

o Figs. 152 & 153 When we designedRC10T truck, we looked at the ROAR rules and there wno minimum dimension listed for the front wheels and tirBecause what we were designing was similar to StadiTrucks, we wondered why nobody was using narrow frtires, as on Stadium Trucks.

So, we made some narrow and wide front wheand tires and did some testing. We ended up runningnarrow front wheels and tires at the FLORIDA WINTCHAMPIONSHIPS and finished 1st and 2nd. Everyothat's seen the truck wanted the narrow wheels and tir

But, because there might be some tracks trequire wide front wheels and tires, we've included pato make narrow or wide ones. Try them both out andwhich ones you like.

page 41


8/12

Putthe appropriate rings in all four front tires. Nexte will install the shallow outer wheel halves in the narrowront tires and the deep outer wheel halves in the wide frontires. Now you will need to decide which of the front tiresou intend to run. You will then take the one set of innerront wheel halves and mount them to the tires that youave chosen. When you decide to run the other set of tires,ou will need to remove the inner wheel halves and installhem on the other wheels. Make sure that the wheels andires are evenly seated before you tighten down the wheelcrews. When you are bolting the wide front tires andheels together please use the longer 4/40 x 5/8" SHCSnd use the shorter 4-40 X 7/16" SHSC fo r the narrowheels and tires.

Fig. 152

Fig. 153page 42

o Fig. 154 Install the rear wheelan the rear aYou'll probably have to turn the wheel until you seatgroove in the back of the wheel over the spl it pin in theaxle. When the wheel is correctly seated, installtighten the 8/32" axle lock nut. Do both sides.

Fig. 15

o Figs. 155 & 156 Pick out the pair of fwheels you're going to run, and install the four #6906bearings in the wheels. Put the wheels on the front axand install the 4-40 locknuts. IMPORTANT: MAKE SUTHE LOCKNUTS AREN'T TOO TIGHT AND BINDING TBEARINGS.

Fig. 15


9/12

Fig. 156

o Figs. 157 & 158 The body can be paintedbefore you mount it. however, it might be easier for you tomount it while it's clear because it will be easier to locatetheholes for the body mounts. Fig. 159 shows the trim linesfor the body. Trim a little of the body and slip it on. Keeptr'lmming a little at a time until it clears. Cut out the bodymount holes. When you've got the body fitted, it's time topaint the body.

The body is painted on the inside. There are twodifferent ways to paint the body, by either brushing it on orspraying it on. The body is made of lexan polycarbonate.Inhobby shops, you can find special Lexan or polycarbon-ate paints made for these type bodies to brush on. Do notuse any other type brush-on paints. If you want to spray iton, one of the best type of spray paints for Lexan orpolycarbonate is Pactra, available in most hobby shops.

Fig. 157

Fig. 15

o Fig. 159 Apply decals to the body the way ywant.

There are four large nylon washers that will fit ovthe top of the front and rear body posts. Use these to githe body more support. Mount the body and insert the fobody clips.

Fig. 15Now pat yourself on the back. YOU DID FANTASTIC! 1991 ASSOCIATED ELECTRICS, INC.

page 43


10/12

INAL ADJUSTMENTSBATTERY CHARGING. Charge your transmittertteries ifthey are Nt-Cds. This charge will take overnight.

harge your battery pack according to your chargeranufacturer's recommendations. Make sure all theeed control connections are according to the speedntrol manufacturer's recommendations. Then go on tofollowing:

STEP 1- Turn the transmitter switch ON.STEP 2-Make sure the motor is UNPLUGGED.STEP 3---Plug in your car batteries.STEP 4- Turn the car switch ON.STEP 5- Turn the steering wheel to the right. See

hewheels turn to the right. If they turn to the left, you havesteering servo reversing switch in the transmitter thatould be switched to the opposite position. Read yourdio manual for more details.

STEP 6-When your wheels turn in the correctsition, take your hands off the steering wheel. Is thervo arm on the steering servo centered? Refer to Fig.9. If it's not centered, you'll have to remove the servo armrew and center the arm.

STEP 7-Are your wheels now painted straightrward? If not, refer to Fig. 133 and adjust the turnbucklecorrectly loosen the two linkage set collars, center theeels. then re-tighten the collars.

STEP 8-Leave the transmitter switch ON Turne car switch OFF. Plug your motor into the speed control.

STEP 9- A word of caution here. You'll want tove the car sitting up on a block so the rear wheels cannotuch anythrng before you turn the car switch back on tot the speed control. Turn your car switch ON. Now sete speed control according to the speed controlufacturer's recommendations.

STEP 10-When you're done setting the speedntrol (and probably playing with the throttle) turn the caritch OFF.

STEP 11- Turn the transmitter switch OFF. Thensmitter switch must always be the FIRST SWITCHRNED ON and THE LAST SWITCH TURNED OFF.

YOUR TRUCK IS NOW READY TO RUN!

RC10T TRUCKMAINTENANCE

You'll find your RClOT truck will give you mamore hours of trouble-free operation than any other cavailable now. You should periodically check all tmoving parts: front and rear A-arms, steering blocksteering linkage, shocks, and so on. Ifany of these shouget any dirt in them and start sticking, it will greaimpede how the truck handles.

MOTOR MAINTENANCE. Because we're runing out in the dirt, it is possible for dirt to make tbrushes stick. So, if you're having motor problems, onethe first things to check is to make sure the brushes astill able to move freely in the brush holders.

If you've run enough to wear them out, Assocated has replacement brushes available. A helpful prouct which will give you a little more power and make tbrushes and commutator last much longerAssociated's Reedy-in-a-Can Power Spray #750. Simpspray a short burst ofthis on the brushes and commutatoevery time before you run and it will clean and lubricathe brushes and commutator. For those of you who wamore power, Reedy Modified motors are available froAssociated. Reedy Modified's #550 for stock racing a#502 for modified are good starting choices.

RADIO MAINTENANCE. A radio problem is nalways caused by the radio. Often it is the result ocombination of factors which can include motor noispoor electrical connections or layout, reversed or defetive crystals, weak transmitter battery, and so on. If yoradio problems persist, one or all of the following tips mhelp:

Make sure your motor noise capacitors are proerly instaUed.

Make sure the brushes are free in their bruholders and are not arcing.

Try a different frequency.Try a different motor.Lengthen your receiver antenna and/or raise t

antenna mount up to the rear shock strut.Dress the radio wires well away from the powleads of the motor.Note also that75 mhz band radios and Electron

Speed Controls are more susceptable to interferenceLarge metal objects such as chain-link fences, ligpoles, cars, vans, or trailers parked near the track ccause local interference, particularly on 75 mhz.


11/12

CHARGING BATTERIESIt is important to undertand the characteristics of

the battery pack in your truck because how you use it willgreatly affect both its performance and its life. With propercare your pack will perform well for many hundreds ofcycles.

The ROAR legal battery for use with your truck iscomposed of six or seven "sub-C" size cells with a ratedcapacity of between 1.2-1.8 amperes for one hour, or 2.4amperes for 1/2 hour, etc. This charge capacity is thesame regardless of the number of cells in the packbecause the cells are connected in series and the samecurrent passes through each one.

CHARGER. A good quality charger will last longerforyou than an economy unit, so please do not cut yourselfshort here by trying to save a couple of dollars. Any goodname brand charger will do the job correctly. The moresophisticated chargers have extra features that makecharging less time-consuming and can easily handle theabuseof heavy back-to-back type charging. The choiceofa DC only or an AC/DC charger should be based onpersonal needs (where you will be using your truck, etc.)and usage.

OVERCHARGE. There is no way to make aNi-Cdcell accept more charge than it is designed to hold. Thismeans that as the cell approaches a fully charged condi-tion. the portion of charging current not being storedbecomes heat and pressure. If charging continues afterthe cell is fully charged, all of the current is converted toheat and pressure-about40 watts worth, or the equiva-lent of the heat produced by an average soldering iron.High temperature and pressure is damaging to the cells,so overcharging must be avoided.

Ni-Cd cells have a built-in process for recombin-ing the accumulated gas (actually oxygen) produced byovercharge, but the process produces heat and takes a lotoft ime. Ifyou overcharge your battery and it seems to takea long time to cool down, it's because this pressurereducing reaction is taking place. Once the gas is recom-bined the temperature drops.

page 45

HOW TO TELL WHENYOUR CELLS ARECHARGED

One of the problems with Ni-Cds is their inherenvoltage stablllty; the voltage of a fully charged cell is nomuch different from one that's just about dead. For thareason several indicators, along with some commonsense, are needed in order to get the most out of youbattery. The following is a list of indicators you can use tdetect full charge.

TEMPERA TURE METHOD. This works onlyyou start with a cool battery pack. As the pack charges,frequently check its temperature by feeling the celldirectly. As soon as you notice an increase in tempera-ture, stop charging. If the cells become too hot to holdonto, your cells are excessively overcharged. Let themcool.

TIMED CHARGE METHOD. This works onlyyou have confidence in the timing accuracy of youcharger. Many chargers on the market only approximatea constant charging current', they may vary from six ampswhen you first start charging, all the way down to twamps if the Ni-Cd pack is nearly charged and the voltageof the charging source (automobile battery) is low. If thcharging current varies, it becomes difficult to estimatethe average current However, ifyour charger is reasona-bly dependable, you can use the following method.

Charge your pack using the "temperaturemethod" above and keep track of the time required treach full charge. Once you have established the timeyou can use it as a setting for the timer on your charger.To be safe, use a setting about a minute less than whayou established. This method allows you to charge without constantly monitoring the battery temperature.

If you charge a battery that is still hot fromrunning, reduce the time about20%. Then, after the packhas cooled, finish charging with the temperature method

VOLTAGE METHOD. Voltage is a poor indication of a cell's state of charge. In fact, other factors liktemperature, current drain, and "cell memory" have amuch of an effect on voltage as the state of charge doesHowever. if current flow and temperature are held constant, it is possible to see the cell voltage gradually climbduring the charging process. The absolute value of thivoltage isn't of much use-how the voltage changes is aexcellent indicator. To use this method, you will needdigital voltmeter or an expanded-scale voltmeter capable of resolving 0.01 volts on the 10 volt range.

Connect the voltmeter across the Ni-Cd packpreferably right at the cell terminals, or, if that's nopossible, across the terminals of the throttle contro


12/12

esistor. Don't try to read the voltage at the output of theharger because you'lI end up reading the voltage droprough all the connectors and cables between theharger and the Ni-Cd pack, which can sometimes distorte effect you're looking for. You should start with aNi-Cdack that is less than half charged. Connect your chargernd begin charging at four amps. If your charger isdjustabl.e, set the current now=but don't try to change itter. A constant current charger is preferable here, but ifours gradually drops off during charge, that's still permis-ible, as long as it doesn't drop belOW three amps.

Watch the voltage as the pack charges. Noticeat the voltage at first climbs rapidly and in the middle ofe charging cycle more slowly. This voltage will mostkely be in the range of 8 1/2 to 9 volts for a six cell pack.s the pack approaches full charge, the voltage will beginclimb more rapidly; and as it goes into overcharge., thelimb will slow down and then stop. This is where you stopharging-at the point where the voltage stops climbing.f you left the charger on, the voltage would begin to fall ase pack went deeply into overcharge and started to heatp. The maximum voltage reached will probably be in theine to ten volt region', the actual value is unimportant.

When measuring voltage on NiCad cells, youust use a digital VOM (volt/ohm meter). A conventionalnalog scale VOM is not sensitive enough. By the time youee the needle move across the scale, you would havelready damaged the battery cells.

SLOW CHARGE METHOD. Slow or "overnight"harging is a method you are not likely to use often, but ita good way to bring the pack to absolutely full charge.owever, the output-voltage of a slow charged pack isightly lower ..

The charging current must be between 0.05 and.12 amperes. If less current, the pack will never reach fullharge', any more and the pack will overheat. The timeequired to reach full charge ranges from 15 to 40 hours,epending on the current used. The charger can be left onra much longer time without harming the cells; however,e output voltage of the pack will be temporarily loweredy an extremely long overcharge. The voltage returns toormal after a discharge-charge cycle. .These next two tips are really for the benefit of seriousacers. If you're just out having fun, don't worry about

FULL DISCHARGE. Ni-Cd packs perform best ifey are COMPLETELY discharge.d before they areharged. If you are involved in racing, you will have to dois if you expect to win any races! Discharge for at leastn hour (preferably overnight with a clip-on resistor)fore charging.ssociated Chargers have a discharge function. Variouslip-on discharge resistors (about 30 ohms, 10 watts) arevailable at hobby stores.

TOPPING-UP can give you a little extra voltagethe beginning of a race, as long as you don't overdo it.the last minute or two of charge into your pack just befthe race starts.GOOD LUCK IN YOUR 'RACING!

CAUTIONNi-cad batteries are susceptible to damage when ocharged at a high rate, and can release caustic chemicif the overcharge is severe.Do not stall the motor under power. If the truck ssuddenly on the track, or fails to move forward whenattempt to accelerate, push the throttle control ontransmitter to the brake position immediately and attenthe truck. A small rock can stall the gears, and if the thris left in the on position the result can be a burned out m(or electronic speed control unit).If you run your truck to the point where more than onein the pack is completely discharged, it is possible toradio control of the truck before the drive motor scompletely. For this reason you should not operatetruck in an area where it could be harmed or cause hsuch as near a busy roadway or a pool of water. Usuradio control will be regained as soon as you pick uptruck and the motor is allowed to tree-runIf you still dhave control, then you should unplug the motor.When you stop running your truck, turn off the radio atruck first before turning off the transmitter.

,A burned-out or shorted motor can make the truck appto have radio problems. If the truck slows down suddeand the radio acts erratically even with a full batcharge, then the cause is probably the motor. Checkrange of the radio with the motor unplugged. A shomotor will draw extremely high current even under no-conditions.

SA VE THIS BOOKLET!MORE THAN AN INSTRUCTION MANUAL, IALSOA HANDY, PICTORIAL SUPPLEMENTTEAM ASSOCIATED'S RCfOT CATALOG.REFER TO THIS MANUAL FOR PART NUMBAND NAME WHEN ORDERING.

10t_manualc

Documents