1 the best full-day tours · 2020-02-28 · adriana pi z s. alv tore piazza s. salvatore piazzad d....

1 The Best Full-Day Tours

05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 7

COPYRIG

HTED M

ATERIAL

M

M

Piazza di S.Cosimato

Piazzad. Risorgimento

PiazzaS. Uffizio


Piazzad. Quiriti

Piazza Coladi Rienzo

Piazzad. Quiriti

PiazzaS. Pietro

PzaPia

PiazzaAdrianaPza

Pia

PiazzaAdriana

Piazza S.SalvatorePiazza S.Salvatore

Piazza d.Chiesa Nuova


PiazzaS. Uffizio

PiazzaGregorio

VII

PiazzaGregorio

VII

Piazza S.Maria aFornaci


Piazzad. Rovere

Piazzad'Oro

Piazzad. Rovere

Piazzad'Oro

Piazza P.Paoli

Piazza P.Paoli


Piazzad. Liberta

Piazzad. Liberta

PIAZZADEL POPOLO

Piazza V.Hugo

Piazzale d.Canestre

Piazzale d.Martiri

Piazza d.Piazza d.CinqueCinque

GiornateGiornate

Piazza d.Cinque

Giornate

Piazza diSpagna

PiazzaleFlaminio

Piazzza

Augusto

PiazzaBorghese

PiazzaCavourPiazzaCavour

Piazza d.Repubblica

Piazza BGigli

Piazza d.Viminale

Piazza delEsquilino

Piazza S. MariaMaggiore

Pza di Pta.Metronia

Piazza di Pta.Capena

Piazza SS.Giov.

e Paolo

Piazzad. Colosseo

Piazza d.Quirinale

Piazza diTrevi

PiazzaFiume

PzaPilo

Piazza diPta.

Portese

Piazza diPta.

Portese Piazza d.Emporio

Piazza d.Tempiodi Diana

PiazzaleUgo laMalfa

PiazzaBocca d.

Verita

PiazzaMercati

Piazza S.Anastasia

PiazzaCapizucchi

PiazzaVenezia

Piazzad'Aracoeli

Piazza B.Cairoli

Largo d.Torre Argentina

PiazzaTrilussaPiazza da

Renzi

PiazzaTrilussa

PiazzaMastai


PiazzaMastai

Pza G.G.Belli


Piazzale G.Garibaldi


Piazza S.Egidio

Piazza S.Egidio

Piazza daRenzi

PiazzaColonnaPiazza di

Montecitorio

Piazza d.Rotonda

Piazza d.Parlamento

Piazza S.Silvestro

Piazza diMinerva

Piazza d.Coll.

Romano

Piazza d.Pilotta

Largo d.Tritone

Piazzale d.EroiPiazzale d.Eroi

Piazza S.M.d. GraziePiazza S.M.d. Grazie

LargoTrionfale

LargoTrionfale

Adriana

Adriana

PiazzaMastaiPiazza di S.

CosimatoPiazza di S.Cosimato

PIAZZABARBERINI

VIAVENETO

Piazz

a

Piazz

a

PiazzaleBrasile

V. d. Croce

V.d. Carrozze

V. Condotti

Borgognona

V. Frattina

V. d. Vite

V M. de Fiori

V. Campanella

V. Campanella

V. VirgilioV. O

razio

V. Visconti

V. G. Belli

V. VirgilioV. O

razio

V. Lucr. Caro

V. Lucr. Caro

V. Visconti

V. G. Belli

Via CrescenzioVia Crescenzio

Borgo VittorioBorgo VittorioBorgo PioBorgo Pio

V. Corridori V. Corridori

Borgo Santo Spirito Borgo Santo Spirito

Via SiciliaVia Sardegna

V. Lombardia

V. Ludovisi

V. Innocenzo III

V. Innocenzo III

V. Nuova delle Fornaci V. Nuova delle Fornaci

V d. VascelloV d. Vascello

V. dei Quattro Venti


V. d. Genovesi

V

V. d.Salumi Via dei Cerchi

V. Petti

nari

V. Petti

nari

Via Giulia

Via Giulia Via Monserrato

Via Monserrato

V. dei G. Vecchio

V. dei G. Vecchio

Via

della

Scr

ofa

Via Cernaia

Via C. B

albo

Via U

rban

a

Via Panisperna

Via Margutta

Via dei Babuino

Via Vittoria

V. Tomacelli

Via del Corso

V. Brunetti

Borgo Angelico

Borgo Angelico

Via A. CerianiVia A. Ceriani

Via delle Fornaci Via delle Fornaci

Viale delle Mura Aurelie

Viale delle Mura Aurelie

V d. Due Macelli

Via dei SS. Quattro

V. Mordini

V. Mordini

Via del Circo Massimo

V. Oscure

Via Claudia

Via Labicana

V. d. Navicella Vi

a di

S. G

rego

rio

Lung Michelangelo

Lung Michelangelo

Lung. Armaldo da Brescia


Lung. Mellini

Lung. Pra

ti

Lung. Mellini

Lung. Pra

ti

Lung. Castello Lung. Castello

Lung

. Vaticano

L. di Tor di Nona L. di Tor di Nona

Lung

. Vaticano

Lung. d. Sangallo

Lung. Gianicolense Lung. d. Sangallo

Lung. dei Tebaldi

Lung. d. Farnesina

Lung. dei Tebaldi

Lung. Gianicolense

Lung. d. Farnesina L. d.Vallati

L. d.Vallati Lung. dei Cenci

P. d. R

ipa Grande

Lung. A

vent

ino

Lung

Testaccio

L R. Sanzio

L R. Sanzio

Via Portu

ense

V. Trionfale

Via Andrea Doria

V. Trionfale

V.Flaminia

V

V. V

espa

sian

oV.

Ves

pasi

ano

V. O

ttav

iano

V.B

arle

tta

V. Leone IV V. O

ttav

iano

V di

Pta

.A

ngel

ica

V di

Pta

.A

ngel

ica

V.B

arle

tta

Ponte

G. MatteottiPonte

G. Matteotti

Viale delle Milizie

Via Cola di Rienzo

Viale Guilio Cesare

Via Germanico

Via de Gracchi

Viale delle Milizie

V. Leone IV Via Cola di Rienzo

Ponte Reg.

MargheritaPonte Reg.

Margherita

PonteCavourPonte

Cavour

Via della ConciliazioneVia della Conciliazione

V. Pta Cavalleggeri

V. Pta Cavalleggeri

Via Salaria

Corso D'Italia Via

P

incia

na

Via Piave

V Savoia

Viale dei Muro Torto

Via Barberini Via XX S

ettembre

Via del Q

uirinale

Via Nazio

nale

Via CavourVia dei Fori Imperiali

Via Gar

ibald

i

Via Garibaldi

Via Gar

ibald

i

Via

di S. P

ancrazio

Via

di S. P

ancrazio

Via Garibaldi

Viale T

rast

ever

e

Viale T

rast

ever

e

Ponte

Sublicio

V. T

eatro

di M

arcel

lo

Ponte

Palatino

V Ar

enul

a

Cor. Vitt. Emanuele II


V d.

A

rgen

tina

Cor dei Rinascimento


G. Zanardelli

G. Zanardelli

Via del Tritone

Via IV Nov.

V. d. Quattro Fontane

V.d. Vim

inale

V. Orlando

Via

C

avour

Via Giov. Lanza

Via Andrea Doria

Pte Sis

to

Pte Sis

to

Pte G.

MazziniPte G.

Mazzini

Pont

eGa

ribal

diPo

nte

Garib

aldi

Pte S.

Angelo

Pte S.

Angelo

Pte

Umberto

I

Pte

Umberto

I

Viale Guilio Cesare

Via Germanico

Via de Gracchi

Lung Marzi

o

Lung Marzi

o

V. XXIV

Maggio

Lung

. Rip

a

Via Aurelia Via Aurelia

Via L. Bissolati

L. Pierleoni

L d. Anguillara

V

ia Vittorio

V

enet

o

PalazzoBarberini

NationalRoman

Museum

Santa MariaMaggiore

Teatro diMarcello

Mausoleumof Augustus

Pantheon

Palazzo delQuirinale

Baths ofTrajan

Colosseum

Tiber (Tevere) River

SpanishSteps

CastelSant’ Angelo


Forum ofAugustus

Palazzodi Giustizia

Palazzodi Giustizia

ISOLATIBERINA

VILLADORIA

PAMPHILI

VILLADORIA

PAMPHILI

VILLAABAMELEK

VILLA MEDICI

VILLARUFFO

GALOPPATOIO

GIARDINI DELQUIRINALE

VILLACOLONNA

PARCOGIANICOLENSE

PARCOGIANICOLENSE

VILLASCIARRA

VILLASCIARRA

PARCO DELCELIO

PARCOOPPIO

PARCO D.S. ALESSIO

St. Peter’sBasilica

VaticanMuseums


VaticanMuseums

SistineChapelSistineChapel

PRATI

VATICANCITY

PRATI

JANICULUMHILL

JANICULUMHILL

PIAZZAPIAZZANAVONANAVONA

PIAZZAPIAZZACAMPO D.CAMPO D.

FIORIFIORI

PIAZZANAVONA

AVENTINEHILL

PALATINEHILL

ANCIENTROME

TRASTEVERETRASTEVERE

VATICANCITY

PIAZZACAMPO D.

FIORI

VILLABORGHESE

PARIOLI

Campidoglio (Capitoline Hill)

Roman Forum

Colosseum

Imperial Fora

Vittoriano

Caffè Italia

Pantheon

Vatican Museums

3

2

4

1

7

8

5

6

Circo Massimo

Via Cavour

Colosseo

M

0.25 km

Spagna

Barberini

Lepanto

Ottaviano

Lepanto

Ottaviano

Flaminio

0

0

1/4 mi

Termini

Repubblica

M

10

8

9

13

12

8

The Best in One DayTh

e B

est

Full-

Day

To

urs

Previous page: Columns at the Pantheon.

05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 8

9The B

est in O

ne D

ay

M

M

M



PiazzaS. Uffizio

Piazzad. Quiriti


PzaPia

PiazzaAdriana

Piazza S.Salvatore


PiazzaGregorio

VII


Piazzad. Rovere

Piazzad'Oro

Piazza P.Paoli

Piazzad. Liberta

PIAZZADEL POPOLO

PIAZZADEL POPOLO

Piazza V.Hugo

Piazzale d.Canestre

Piazza V.Hugo

Piazzale d.Martiri

Piazzale d.Martiri

Piazzale d.Canestre

Piazza d.Cinque

Giornate

Piazza diSpagna

Piazza diSpagna

PiazzaleFlaminioPiazzaleFlaminio

Piazzza

Augusto

PiazzaBorghese

Piazzza

AugustoPiazzaCavour

Piazza d.Repubblica

Piazza BGigli

Piazza d.Repubblica

Piazza d.ViminalePiazza d.Viminale

Piazza BGigli

Piazza delEsquilino

Piazza delEsquilino



Pza di Pta.Metronia

Pza di Pta.Metronia


Piazza SS.Giov.

e Paolo


PleMet

Piazzad. Colosseo

Piazzad. Colosseo

Piazza SS.Giov.

e Paolo

Piazza d.QuirinalePiazza d.Quirinale

Piazza diTrevi

Piazza diTrevi

PiazzaFiumePiazzaFiume

Piazza diPta.

Portese Piazza d.Emporio


Piazza d.Emporio

PzaTestaccio

PzaAlbania


PzaRomuria Lgo E

Pza SBalbina

Ple NuPompilio

PiazzaleUgo laMalfa

PiazzaleUgo laMalfa

PiazzaBocca d.

Verita

PiazzaMercati

PiazzaBocca d.

Verita

Piazza S.AnastasiaPiazza S.

Anastasia

PiazzaCapizucchi

PiazzaVenezia

Piazzad'Aracoeli

PiazzaCapizucchi

Piazza B.Cairoli

Piazza B.Cairoli



PiazzaTrilussaPiazza da

Renzi

PiazzaVenezia

Piazzad'Aracoeli

PiazzaMastai

Piazza di S.Cosimato Piazza

Mercati

Pza G.G.Belli


Piazza S.Egidio


Montecitorio


Montecitorio

PiazzaBorghese

Piazza d.RotondaPiazza d.Rotonda

Piazza d.Parlamento

Piazza S.SilvestroPiazza d.

Parlamento

Piazza diMinerva

Piazza d.Coll.

Romano

Piazza diMinerva

Piazza d.Coll.

Romano

Piazza d.Pilotta

Piazza d.Pilotta

Piazza S.Silvestro

Largo d.Tritone

Largo d.Tritone

Piazzale d.Eroi

Piazza S.M.d. Grazie

LargoTrionfale

Adriana

PiazzaMastai

PIAZZABARBERINI

VIAVENETO

PIAZZABARBERINI

VIAVENETO

Piazz

a

PiazzaleBrasile

PiazzaleBrasile

V. d. Croce

V.d. Carrozze

V. Condotti

Borgognona

V. Frattina

V. d. Vite

V. d. Croce

V.d. Carrozze

V. Condotti

Borgognona

V. Frattina

V. d. Vite

V M. de Fiori

V M. de Fiori

V. Campanella

V. VirgilioV. O

razio

V. Visconti

V. G. Belli

V. Lucr. Caro

Via Crescenzio

Borgo VittorioBorgo Pio

V. Corridori

Borgo Santo Spirito

Via SiciliaVia Sardegna

Via Sicilia

V. Lombardia

V. Lombardia

V. LudovisiV. Ludovisi

V. Innocenzo III

V. Nuova delle Fornaci V d. Vascello


V. d. Genovesi

V. d. Genovesi

V. d.Salumi

V. d.Salumi Via dei Cerchi

Via dei Cerchi

V. Petti

nari

Via Giulia Via Monserrato

V. dei G. Vecchio

Via

della

Scr

ofa

Via

della

Scr

ofa

Via Cernaia

Via Cernaia

Via C. B

albo

Via U

rban

a Via C. B

albo

Via U

rban

a

Via Panisperna

Via Panisperna

Via Margutta

Via dei Babuino

Via Vittoria

V. Tomacelli

Via del Corso

Via Margutta

Via dei Babuino

Via Vittoria

V. Tomacelli

Via del Corso

V. Brunetti V. Brunetti

Borgo Angelico

Via A. Ceriani

Via delle Fornaci Viale de lle M

ura Aurelie

V d. Due Macelli

V d. Due Macelli

Via dei SS. Quattro

Via dei SS. Quattro

Via Sardegna

V. Mordini



V. Oscure V. Oscure

Via Claudia

Via Labicana

Via Claudia V. d. Navicella

V. d. Navicella

Via Labicana

Via Dru

soVia d. Terme di Caracella

Viale Aventino

Via

di S

. Gre

gorio

Via

di S

. Gre

gorio

Cest

ia

Gelsomini

Via

Marm

orata

Lung Michelangelo


Lung. Mellini

Lung. Pra

ti

Lung. Castello

Lung

. Vaticano

L. di Tor di Nona

Lung. d. Sangallo

Lung. Gianicolense

Lung. dei Tebaldi

Lung. d. Farnesina L. d.Vallati Lung. dei Cenci Lung. dei Cenci

P. d. R

ipa Grande

P. d. R

ipa Grande

Lung. A

vent

ino

Lung. Ave

ntin

o

L R. Sanzio

V. Trionfale

Via Andrea Doria

V.Flaminia

V.Flaminia

V. V

espa

sian

o

V. O

ttav

iano

V.B

arle

tta

V. Leone IV

V di

Pta

.A

ngel

ica

Ponte

G. Matteotti

Viale delle Milizie

Via Cola di Rienzo

Viale Guilio Cesare

Via Germanico

Via de GracchiPonte Reg.

Margherita

PonteCavour

Via della Conciliazione

V. Pta Cavalleggeri

Via Salaria

Corso D'Italia Via

P

incia

na

Via Piave

Via Salaria

Corso D'Italia Via

P

incia

na

V Savoia



Via Barberini

Via Barberini Via XX S

ettembre

Via XX S

ettembre

Via del Q

uirinale

Via Nazio

naleVia del Q

uirinale

Via Nazio

nale

Via CavourVia dei Fori Imperiali

Via Cavour

Via Piave

Via Gar

ibald

i

Via Garibaldi

Via

di S. P

ancrazio

Viale T

rast

ever

e

Ponte

SublicioPonte

Sublicio

V. T

eatro

di M

arcel

lo

V. T

eatro

di M

arcel

lo

V Petroselli

Via dei Fori Imperiali

Ponte

Palatino

Ponte

Palatino

V Ar

enul

a


V d.

A

rgen

tina

V

d.

Arg

entin

a


G. Zanardelli

Via del C

orsoVia del Tritone

Via del Tritone

Via IV Nov.

Via IV Nov.



V.d. Vim

inale

V.d. Vim

inale

V. Orlando

V. Orlando

Via

C

avour

Via

C

avour

Via Giov. Lanza Via Giov. Lanza

Pte Sis

to

Pte G.

Mazzini

Pont

eGa

ribal

di

Pte S.

Angelo

Pte

Umberto

I Lung Marzi

o

V. XXIV

Maggio

V. XXIV

Maggio

Lung

. Rip

a Lu

ng. R

ipa

Via Aurelia

Via L. Bissolati

Via L. Bissolati

L. Pierleoni

L. Pierleoni

L d. Anguillara

L d. Anguillara

V

ia Vittorio

V

enet

o

V

ia Vittorio

V

enet

o M

M

M

MPalazzo

BarberiniPalazzo

Barberini

NationalRoman

Museum

NationalRoman

Museum

Santa MariaMaggiore

Santa MariaMaggiore

Teatro diMarcelloTeatro diMarcello

Mausoleumof AugustusMausoleumof Augustus

PantheonPantheon



Baths ofTrajan

Baths ofTrajan

ColosseumColosseumArch of

Constantine

Tiber (

Teve

re) R

iver

SpanishStepsSpanishSteps


Forum ofAugustus

ROMAN FORUM

CIRCUS MAXIMUS

BATHS OFCARACALLA

Palazzodi Giustizia

Forum ofAugustus

ISOLATIBERINA

ISOLATIBERINA

VILLADORIA

PAMPHILI

VILLA MEDICI

VILLA MEDICI

VILLARUFFO

GALOPPATOIO

VILLARUFFO


VILLACOLONNA


VILLACOLONNA

PARCOGIANICOLENSE

VILLASCIARRA

PARCO DELCELIO

PARCO DELCELIO

PARCOOPPIOPARCOOPPIO

PARCO D.S. ALESSIOPARCO D.

S. ALESSIO

PARCO DIPORTA

CAPENA

GALOPPATOIO


VaticanMuseums

SistineChapel

PRATI

VATICANCITY

JANICULUMHILL

PIAZZANAVONA

PIAZZACAMPO D.

FIORI

AVENTINEAVENTINEHILLHILL

PALATINEPALATINEHILLHILL

ANCIENTANCIENTROMEROME

AVENTINEHILL

TRASTEVERE

PALATINEHILL

ANCIENTROME

VILLABORGHESE

PARIOLI

VILLABORGHESE

PARIOLI

Piazza Navona

Giolitti

Trevi Fountain 15

14

13St. Peter's Basilica

Castel Sant'Angelo

(your hotel room)

Campo de' Fiori

11

10

9

12

Circo MassimoCirco Massimo

Via Cavour

Colosseo

Via Cavour

ColosseoM

M

Spagna

Barberini

Spagna

Barberini

Lepanto

Ottaviano

FlaminioFlaminio

Termini

Repubblica

Termini

Repubblica

1

23

4

7

5

15

6

14

05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 9

Travel Tip

Seasonal opening hours of someattractions may require modificationof the itinerary below: For example,because of the Vatican Museums’shorter winter hours, from Novem-ber to February, you’ll need to dothe Vatican in the morning andancient Rome in the afternoon.

10

Seeing the top sights of Rome in 1 day requires an early start,discipline, and a bit of stamina, but it’s actually quite doable. This

“greatest hits” itinerary begins with an overview of the highlights ofancient Rome; after lunch, cross town and spend a few hours at theVatican. Conclude your day with a leisurely evening walking tour ofthe gorgeously floodlit fountains and piazzas of the centro storico.START: Take bus 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 87, 95, 170, 492, or 628 to Piazza del-

l’Ara Coeli and climb the stairs to Piazza del Campidoglio.

The

Bes

t Fu

ll-D

ay T

ou

rs

1 ★★★ Campidoglio (Capito-line Hill). The most sacred ofRome’s hills was given its presentlook in the 1500s, when Michelan-gelo designed the star-patternedsquare and surrounding buildings ofthe Capitoline Museums (see p 31,bullet 6). The bronze statue ofMarcus Aurelius in the center of thepiazza is a copy; the 2nd-century-A.D. original is inside the museum.The western slopes of the hill, with

their steep red tufa walls and tan-gled vegetation, still look much thesame as they would have in the pri-mordial days before the rise ofRome. Don’t miss the majestic viewof the Roman Forum from the south-facing terraces on either side of thebell-towered Palazzo Senatorio (cityhall). @ 15–30 min. Also gorgeous—and deserted—at night. Bus: 30, 40,62, 64, 70, 87, 170, 492, or 571.

2 ★★★ Roman Forum. Whilethe Forum is not one of the better-preserved archaeological sites ofancient Rome, it is the most histori-cally significant. The Forum was thenerve center of the most powerfulWestern civilization in history for thebetter part of a thousand years,where political decisions were made,public speeches were heard, andmarket activities took place. Theremains here—of 2,000-year-old

The

Bes

t Fu

ll-D

ay T

ou

rs

The ruins of the Roman forum were excavated in the 19th century.

05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 10

temples, law courts, and victorymonuments—are impressive butskeletal, and can be difficult to deci-pher. @ 30–45 min. See p 24, bullet7 for full details.

3 ★★★ Colosseum. The Flavianamphitheater (A.D. 72–80) never failsto impress—for its elegant, enduringbulk, and its disturbing former func-tion as a theater of slaughter. At theheight of the Roman Empire, gameswere held almost every other day; intimes of special celebration, gamescould last for weeks or months onend. Free tesserae (tickets) were dis-tributed to about 65,000 Romans,who could be seated in the arena in amatter of minutes, thanks to an effi-cient system of 80 numbered vomito-ria (entrance/exit passageways).Against slashing swords and gnash-ing lions’ teeth, gladiators and bes-tiarii (animal fighters) fought to thedeath, hoping to someday win theirfreedom. (In the Colosseum’s 400-year history, fewer than 100 men everdid.) A visit inside the massive struc-ture is certainly rewarding, but ifyou’re pressed for time or cash, awalk around the exterior is fine. Ifthere’s a long queue, buy your ticketsat the Palatine (p 26, bullet 8 ) andgo straight to the turnstiles. @ 30–45min. See p 26, bullet 0 for fulldetails.

4 ★★ Imperial Fora. Mussoliniblazed the broad thoroughfare ofVia dell’Impero—now Via dei ForiImperiali—to trumpet the glories ofhis ancient forebears and propagatehis own ambitions of empire. Alongthe east side of the boulevard, theruins of the forums built by emper-ors Nerva, Augustus, and Trajan canbe seen protruding from the ancientstreet level, 7.6m (25 ft.) below. Onthe west side, near the Colosseum,don’t miss the fascinating marblemaps (also from the Fascist period)charting the spread of the RomanEmpire, which reached as far east asIran (Parthia). @ 30 min. Via dei ForiImperiali.

5 ★ Vittoriano. Locals revile the 100-year-old monument to Victor Emanuel II, the first king ofunited Italy, as a tasteless and over-the-top neoclassical “typewriter,”but tourists can’t seem to take theireyes off the plus-size marble confec-tion on the south side of PiazzaVenezia. Take the elevator to theuppermost level, the Terrazza delleQuadrighe, for the most thrillingview in Rome. @ 30–45 min. Admis-sion for upper terrace only 7�. Daily10am–4:30pm. Bus: 30, 40, 60, 62,64, 70, 85, 87, or 492.

11The B

est in O

ne D

ay

The Colosseum takes on a spectral glow at dusk.

05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/29/08 7:22 PM Page 11

@ ★★★ Campo de’ Fiori. Byearly evening (6–6:30pm), thissquare in the very heart of the

! Your hotel room. By now, it’s4 or 5pm—a good time to return to your hotel, rest your feet, andfreshen up before heading back outfor dinner and your evening walkingtour. Just don’t crash completely. Ifit’s after 5pm, and you’re feelingenergetic, skip the hotel and pro-ceed directly to @, below.

6 ★ Caffè Italia. Take a breatherat this alfresco cafe halfway up thesummit of the Vittoriano, to the leftof the gigantic bronze statue of theking on horseback. Il Vittoriano.

y 06-6780905. $–$$.

7 ★★★ Pantheon. As the best-preserved and most elegantancient building in the city—if notthe world—the Pantheon (“templeto all gods”) merits multiple visits. It was designed and possibly builtby Hadrian from A.D. 118 to 125, in a form governed by circles andsquares—shapes which, as Vitru-vius wrote (and Leonardo laterimmortalized in his drawing the Vit-ruvian Man), the human body mostnaturally occupies. The Pantheon’sperfectly hemispherical, poured-concrete dome is 43m (141 ft.) talland wide—1m (3 ft.) wider than thedome of St. Peter’s. @ 15–30 min.See p 54, bullet !. Take a taxi from the Pantheon to the VaticanMuseums.

8 ★★★ Vatican Museums.After lunch, the crowds have left the Vatican, making it much more

pleasant to explore. Stay focused,however, and make sure you see thestarring ancient sculptures—thegut-wrenching emotion anddynamism of Laocoon, the transcen-dent composure of ApolloBelvedere—in the Pio-Clementinesection of the museums, and thenhightail it for the Vatican’s biggestguns, Raphael’s stanze andMichelangelo’s frescoes in the Sis-tine Chapel. The art here, by two ofthe greatest painters in history, is atriumph of Renaissance achieve-ment, bold in color, lofty in concept,and monumental in scale. @ 11⁄2 hr.See p 49, bullet 6 for a more com-prehensive review.

9 ★★★ St. Peter’s Basilica.The incomprehensibly voluminousVatican basilica is packed with incal-culable riches, from the marble andgold that cover its every surface tomasterpieces like Michelangelo’sPietà and Bernini’s Baldacchino.

@ 30 min. Dome visit not absolutelynecessary. See p 48, bullet 2.

0 ★★ Castel Sant’Angelo.You probably won’t have the time orenergy to go inside, but the view ofthis mausoleum-turned-fortress,from Ponte Sant’Angelo—whereangels by Bernini wince and moan—is not to be missed. @ 15 min. See p 53, bullet 1 for full details.

12Th

e B

est

Full-

Day

To

urs

Michelangelo’s Pietà.

05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 12

$ ★★ Giolitti. At the city’s best-loved gelato shop, the setting is ele-gant and the ritual is fun. Pay thecashier up front, then negotiateyour way through the crowds inback, where gracious servers scoopup enormous helpings of almost100 flavors. Via degli Uffici del Vic-ario 40. y 06-6991243. $.

centro storico is abuzz with all kindsof people taking an aperitivo at themany outdoor bars. (I recommendVineria Reggio and Taverna delCampo, p 114.) Later in the evening,it’s a younger scene. Campo de’ Fioriand nearby Piazza Navona, the start-ing points of your evening tour, arealso prime zones for dinner. @ 1 hr.See p 101. Bus: 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 87,116, or 492. $–$$.

# ★★★ Piazza Navona. Themost famous baroque square inRome, built on the site of the

ancient athletic stadium of Domit-ian, boasts Bernini’s fantastic Fountain of the Four Rivers and Bor-romini’s church of Sant’Agnese inAgone, as well as the smallerFontana del Moro and Fontana diNettuno. There are also a number of cafes to tempt you with after-dinner treats—it’s unabashedlytouristy, but the setting sure ispretty. @ 20–30 min. See p 38, bul-let 1, and p 53, bullet 6. Bus: 30,40, 62, 64, 70, 87, 116, or 492.

13The B

est in O

ne D

ay

The Trevi Fountain lit up at night.

St. Peter’s Basilica fronting St. Peter’s Square.

% ★★★ Trevi Fountain.Rome’s most celebrated fountain,designed by Nicola Salvi and builtfrom 1732–62, is impressive enoughduring the day, but at night, thefloodlights make it look cleaner anddoubly spectacular—so gorgeousthat you won’t even mind thecrowds. @ 20 min. Piazza di Trevi.Bus: 62, 85, 95, 175, or 492.

05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 13

M

V. d. Seminario V. d. Seminario

Via Sardegna

Via Sardegna

1110

8

14

9

VILLABORGHESE

PARIOLI

PIAZZA DELPOPOLO

PIAZZABARBERINI

VIAVENETO

PIAZZA DELPOPOLO

VILLABORGHESE

PARIOLI

PalazzoBarberini

Pantheon

SpanishSteps

SpanishSteps

Piazzade Quirinale

Via del Quirin

ale

Via Nazio

nale

BarberiniBarberini

65

4

2

1

LepantoLepanto

PIAZZABARBERINI

ColosseoColosseoANCIENT

ROMEANCIENT

ROME

AVENTINEHILL

PALATINEHILL

AVENTINEHILL

Santa Cecilia

Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere

Ombre Rosse

Via Giulia

Piazza Farnese

Campo de' Fiori

Taverna del Campo

Galleria Borghese

Villa Borghese

Pincio Terrace

Piazza del Popolo

Bar Stravinskij

Enoteca Antica di Via della Croce

Spanish Steps

2

4

5

1

6

10

9

11

8

Circo MassimoCirco Massimo


PalazzoBarberini

Pantheon


TreviFountain


TreviFountain

VILLA MEDICI

VILLA MEDICI


VILLACOLONNA


VILLACOLONNA

CIRCUS MAXIMUS

ROMANFORUM

ColosseumColosseum

GALOPPATOIO

Mausoleumof AugustusMausoleumof Augustus

Palazzo diMontecitorio


Largo delTritone

Via del C

orso

Piazza diSpagna

Piazza diSpagna

V. d. Tritone

V. Condotti

Largo delTritone

Piazzade Quirinale

PiazzaleBrasile

PiazzaleBrasile


Palazzodi Giustizia

PiazzaCavour


Palazzodi Giustizia

PiazzaCavour

Via del C

orso Via del Quirin

ale

Via Nazio

nale

VIAVENETO

Via Font Borghese

Via Font Borghese

V. d. Babuino

V. d. Babuino

PiazzaleFlaminioPiazzaleFlaminio

Via del C

orso

Viale del Muro Torto

V. d

. Rip

etta

Ponte Reg.

MargheritaPonte Reg.

Margherita

Ponte CavourPonte Cavour

Ponte

Umberto I

Ponte

Umberto I

PonteS. A

ngeloPonte

S. Angelo

V. d. Tritone

Via del C

orso


Via Pin

cian

a

Via Pin

cian

a

V. d

. Muse

o Borg

hese

V. d

. Muse

o Borg

hese

ISOLATIBERINA

Lung. dei Tebaldi

Via

Arenu

la

Lung. de Cenci L. R. Sanzio

L. R. Sanzio

Piazza G.G.Belli

L. d. Pierleoni

V. G

aribald

i

Pont

eGa

ribal

diPo

nte

Garib

aldi

Ponte

Palatino

Ponte

Palatino

0.25 km

0

0

1/4 mi

V. d

. Rip

etta

V. Condotti

Piazza dellaRotonda

Piazza dellaRotonda

Corso Vittorio Emanuele

Via del Pellegrino Largo di

TorreArgentina

Largo diTorre

ArgentinaV. d. Plebiscito V. C. Battisti


Pte Sisto

Pte Sisto

ISOLATIBERINA

Lung. R

ipa

L

ung. Ave

ntino

Via dei Cerchi Via

di S

. Gre

gori

o

V. d

. Tra

stev

ere

V. d

. Tra

stev

ere

Via del Pellegrino Lung. dei Tebaldi

V. d. Plebiscito V. C. Battisti

Via

Arenu

la Piazza di

d’Aracoeli Via dei Fori Imperiali

Piazza delCampidoglio

Piazza diSan Marco

Piazza did’Aracoeli Via dei Fori Imperiali

Teatro diMarcelloTeatro diMarcelloLung. de Cenci

Piazza G.G.Belli

L. d. Pierleoni

V. Gar

ibaldi

Lung. d. Farnesina

Lung. d. Farnesina


Via del Circo Massimo Lu

ng. Rip

a

L

ung. Ave

ntino

Via dei Cerchi Via

di S

. Gre

gori

o

PALATINEHILL PARCO

DEL CELIOPARCO

DEL CELIO


Piazza diSan Marco

Via Ani

cia

Via Ani

cia

Piazza inPiscinulaPiazza inPiscinula V. d. Genovesi

V. d. Genovesi PiazzaMastaiPiazzaMastai

V. S.

Francescoo V. S.

Francescoo

Cor. d. Rinascimento


Mon. VittorioEmanuele IIMon. VittorioEmanuele II

V. di S

. Mich

ele

V. di S

. Mich

ele

Museo diRoma

Museo diRoma

PiazzaCola diRienzo

PiazzaCola diRienzo

Via Giulia

Via Giulia

V. Monserrato

V. Monserrato

V. d. P

ettinari

V. d. P

ettinari

14

PIAZZANAVONAPIAZZA

NAVONA

Piazza S.SilvestroPiazza S.Silvestro

V. d. D.

Macelli

V. d. D.

Macelli

V. Frattina V. Frattina

V. d. Vite V. d. Vite

Santa Mariasopra MinervaSanta Mariasopra Minerva

LargoMagnanapoli

LargoMagnanapoli

Via Piacenza

Via Piacenza

Via Panisperna

Via Panisperna

Via Cavour

Via Cavour Via Baacciinni

Via Baccini

V. d

. S. T

eodo

ro

V. d

. S. T

eodo

ro

Via Sistina

Via Sistina

Via Ludovisi

Via Ludovisi

V. G.

WashingtonV. G.

Washington

V. F. di

SavoiaV. F. di

Savoia

V. d

. P

aglia

V. d

. P

aglia

SpagnaSpagna

FlaminioFlaminio

ViaVittorio

Ven

eto

ViaVittorio

Ven

eto

V. F.

C

rispi

V.

F.

Cris

pi

M

V. Margutta

V. Margutta

Tiber (Te

vere

) Riv

er

3

3

7

13

12

13

12

7

MM

M

M

M

M

14

The Best in Two DaysTh

e B

est

Full-

Day

To

urs

The

Bes

t Fu

ll-D

ay T

ou

rs

05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 14

15

On your second day, spend the morning wandering the pic-turesque squares and alleys of Trastevere and Campo de’ Fiori,

Rome’s oldest and most authentic quarters. Have lunch, and thencross town to feast your eyes on the crown jewels of baroque art inthe Galleria Borghese. Go for a stroll through the Villa Borghese,making your way to the Pincio terraces and their enchanting viewover the city and the Vatican. Finish the day by visiting the elegantTridente district below, where such dolce vita activities as shopping,drinking, and eating abound. Allow 21⁄2 hours for the morning tour ofTrastevere and Campo de’ Fiori. START: Take bus 23, 271, or 280 to

Lungotevere degli Anguillara, and then walk to Piazza di Santa Cecilia;

or take bus H, 780, or tram 8 to Piazza G. G. Belli, and walk.

The Best in

Two

Days

V. d. Seminario

Via Sardegna

VILLABORGHESE

PARIOLI

PIAZZA DELPOPOLO

PIAZZABARBERINI

VIAVENETO

PalazzoBarberini

Pantheon

SpanishSteps

Piazzade Quirinale

Via del Quirin

ale

Via Nazio

nale

Barberini

Lepanto

ColosseoANCIENT

ROME

AVENTINEHILL

PALATINEHILL

Circo Massimo

TRASTEVERE


TreviFountain

VILLA MEDICI


VILLACOLONNA

Colosseum

Mausoleumof Augustus


Largo delTritone

Via del C

orso

Piazza diSpagna

V. d. Tritone

V. Condotti

PiazzaleBrasile


Palazzodi Giustizia

PiazzaCavour

Via Font Borghese

V. d. Babuino

PiazzaleFlaminio

Via del C

orso


V. d

. Rip

etta

Ponte Reg.

Margherita

Ponte Cavour

Ponte

Umberto I

PonteS. A

ngelo

Via Pin

cian

a

V. d

. Muse

o Borg

hese

ISOLATIBERINA

Lung. dei Tebaldi

Via

Arenu

la

Lung. de Cenci L. R. Sanzio

Piazza G.G.Belli

L. d. Pierleoni

V. Gar

ibaldi

Pont

eGa

ribal

di

Ponte

Palatino

Piazza dellaRotonda


Via del Pellegrino Largo di

TorreArgentina

V. d. Plebiscito V. C. Battisti

Pte Sisto

Lung. R

ipa

L

ung. Ave

ntino

Via dei Cerchi Via

di S

. Gre

gori

o

V. d

. Tra

stev

ere

Piazza did’Aracoeli Via dei Fori Imperiali


Piazza diSan Marco

Teatro diMarcello

Lung. d. Farnesina


PARCODEL CELIO

Via Ani

cia

Piazza inPiscinula V. d. Genovesi Piazza

Mastai

V. S.

Francescoo


Mon. VittorioEmanuele II

V. di S

. Mich

ele

Museo diRoma

PiazzaCola diRienzo

Via Giulia

V. Monserrato

V. d. P

ettinari

PIAZZANAVONA

Piazza S.Silvestro

V. d. D.

Macelli

V. Frattina

V. d. Vite

Santa Mariasopra Minerva

LargoMagnanapoli

Via Piacenza

Via Panisperna

Via Cavour Via Baccini

V. d

. S. T

eodo

ro

Via Sistina

Via Ludovisi

V. G.

Washington

V. F. di

Savoia

V. d

. P

aglia

Spagna

Flaminio

ViaVittorio

Ven

eto

V. F.

C

rispi

V. Margutta

1 ★ Santa Cecilia. This incrediblypeaceful basilica—an 18th-centuryreworking of a medieval church—isdedicated to the patron saint ofmusic, who was martyred here inthe 3rd century A.D. Inside, altarmosaics dazzle, and fragments ofPietro Cavallini’s wonderful 13th-century fresco of the Last Judgmentcan be seen at limited times. Ceciliawas exhumed from her tomb in thecrypt here in 1599, long enough forStefano Maderno to sculpt thelovely (but disturbing—her throat isslashed) statue of the saint’s still-uncorrupted body below the altar.The church is one of the most popu-lar in Rome for weddings, evidencedby omnipresent grains of rice on theground near the front door. @ 20min. Piazza di Santa Cecilia. y 06-5899289. Daily 9:30am–12:30pm,4–6:30pm. Cavallini frescoes: Tues,

Thurs 10am–noon, Sun 11:30am–12:30pm. Bus: 23, 271, 280, or H.Tram: 3 or 8.

2 ★★ Piazza and Basilica diSanta Maria in Trastevere. The first church in Rome dedicated to theVirgin Mary is spectacular inside andout, with a landmark Romanesquebrick bell tower, colorful frescoes,mosaics, and loads of recycledancient marbles. The eponymoussquare in front of the church acts asa kind of common living room for theneighborhood—it seems that everyresident of Trastevere crosses thewide expanse of cobblestones hereat some point during the day. Seealso p 39, bullet 8, and p 43, bullet 8. @ 20 min. Piazza SantaMaria in Trastevere. y 06-5814802.Daily 7:30am–9pm. Bus: 23, 271, 280,or H. Tram: 8.

A cafe in Trastevere.

05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 15

7 Taverna del Campo. Break forlunch on or around Campo de’ Fioribefore beginning the second part of the day’s tour. For savory pizza-bread sandwiches and piazza views,Taverna del Campo can’t be beat (p 114). $$.

3 ★ Ombre Rosse. This cafewith a porchlike view over a charm-ing piazza is more stylish than theaverage neighborhood bar, but stillfrequented by born-and-bred, localtrasteverini, and perfect for cappuc-cino-sipping and people-watching.Piazza Sant’ Egidio 12. y 06-5884155. $–$$.

6 ★★★ Campo de’ Fiori.Rome’s market square par excel-lence, the Campo is the perfectembodiment of the myth of Italy.Every morning from Monday to Sat-urday, the square hosts a lively fruit,vegetable, and trinket bazaar. Byearly evening, where grocery shop-pers eyed pachino tomatoes a fewhours before, Rome’s bright youngthings are scoping out each otherover sparkling wine and efferves-cent conversation, indulging in thecarefree atmosphere of this alwaysbusy outdoor salon. See also p 39,bullet !, and p 56, bullet 1.

@ 20–30 min. Bus: 23, 30, 40, 62,64, 70, 87, 116, or 492. Tram: 8.

16Th

e B

est

Full-

Day

To

urs

Tomatoes and zucchini for sale at the market in Campo de’ Fiori.

4 ★★ Via Giulia. Bearingstraight toward the Vatican fromPonte Sisto, this former pilgrimroute is home to many art galleriesand high-end, original boutiques.Via Giulia’s most fetching feature isan arch—with overgrown ivy drapedluxuriously toward the pitch-blackcobblestones—that spans the roadbehind Palazzo Farnese. @ 15 min.Bus: 23, 271, or 280.

5 ★★ Piazza Farnese.Sophisticated and regal Piazza Far-nese is where locals come to readthe newspaper or to push a strollerin peace, against the stately, yellow-brick backdrop of 16th-centuryPalazzo Farnese. The sleepy squareseems a world away—in reality, it’sonly a block—from the hubbub ofCampo de’ Fiori. See also p 39, bul-let 0, and p 57, bullet 3. @ 15min. Bus: 23, 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 87,116, 271, 492, or 571. Tram: 8.

8 ★★★ Galleria Borghese.Reel in amazement at sculptures byBernini (and other masterpieces) atone of the world’s most outstandingsmall museums. Visits must bebooked at least 1 day in advance:Go for the 1 or 3pm time slot. See also p 30, bullet 3. @ 1 hr.

05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 16

# ★★ Enoteca Antica di Viadella Croce. For a more budget-friendly snack, grab a barstool orsidewalk seat and enjoy some wineand tantalizing plates of meats,cheeses, and olives at this friendlyspot. A favorite of expats living inRome. Via della Croce 76B. y 06-6790896. $$.

Veneto—these days, celebshounded by the paparazzi duck intothis (pricey) bar inside the glam-orous Hotel de Russie. In warmweather, sit outside in the gorgeousinterior garden, sloping up towardthe Pincio; in winter, get cozy at thepiano bar’s indoor tables. Via delBabuino 9. y 06-328881. $$$–$$$$.

@ ★★ Bar Stravinskij. Forgetthe cheesy sidewalk cafes of Via

Piazzale Museo Borghese. y 06-32810. Admission 8.50� plus 2�booking fee. Tues–Sun 9am–7pm(last visit 5pm). Bus: 116 or 910.

9 ★★ Villa Borghese. Go for a relaxing stroll among the refresh-ing greenery of Rome’s most centralpublic park. Boats can be rented atthe picturesque laghetto. See also p 92. @ 30 min. Daily 6am–sunset.Metro: Spagna. Bus: 52, 53, 63, 116,or 910. Tram: 3 or 19.

0 ★★★ Pincio Terrace. Heartsflutter at the impressive perspectiveon the Vatican from this panoramicspot above Piazza del Popolo. It’s glo-riously sun-filled by day, ultraroman-tic by night. See also p 45, bullet 3.

@ 15 min. Metro: Flaminio.

! ★★ Piazza del Popolo.Romans and tourists alike bask inthe late-afternoon sun that floodsthis vast, traffic-free oval space justbelow the Pincio. Graced in the cen-ter by a massive, hieroglyphed pinkgranite obelisk, the “Square of thePeople” is wonderfully elegant anduncluttered—perfect for idling andgelato-licking, and a fitting introduc-tion to the good-life in Tridente dis-trict, which spreads out pronglike tothe south. See also p 38, bullet 4,and p 61, bullet 1. @ 15 min.Metro: Flaminio.

$ ★★★ Spanish Steps. Fortu-nately, the sweeping beauty of theScalinata di Piazza di Spagna tran-scends the sometimes-ugly crowdsof tourists that populate the squareday and night. The climb to the highterrace covers 12 curving flights ofsteps of varying width—you’ll trip ifyou don’t watch where your feetare—but the view from the top isexhilarating. Come between 2 and6am, and you’ll enjoy that rarest ofRoman treats—having the fabulousstage of the Spanish Steps to your-self. See also p 63, bullet !. @ 30min. Metro: Spagna.

17The B

est in Tw

o D

ays

The Spanish Steps are one of the city’s favorite gathering places.

05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 17

ANCIENTROME

ANCIENTROME

AVENTINEHILL

AVENTINEHILL


CIRCUS MAXIMUS

ROMANFORUM

Pont

e

Gari

bald

i

Pont

e

Gari

bald

i

Ponte

Palatino

Ponte

Palatino

Largo diTorre

Argentina

Largo diTorre

Argentina

Pte Sis

to

Pte Sis

to

ISOLATIBERINA

ISOLATIBERINA

Vial

e di

Tras

teve

re

Via Anici

a

V. d. Genovesi V. S. Francesco

V. S. M

ichele

Vial

e di

Tras

teve

re


V. d. Pellegrino V. d. Plebiscito

Corso Vittorio Emanuele V. d. Pellegrino

V. d. Plebiscito

Via Botteghe Oscure Via Botteghe Oscure V

ia A

renu

la

Lung. R. Sanzio

V. Monserrato

V. d. P

ettinari

Via

Are

nula

Piazza di

d’Aracoeli

Piazza diSan Marco

PiazzaCapizucchi

Piazza did’Aracoeli

V

Teatro diMarcelloTeatro diMarcello Lung. de Cenci

Lung. de Cenci Lung. R. Sanzio

Piazza G.G.Belli Piazza in

Piscinula

Piazza G.G.Belli

L. d. Pierleoni V. Petroselli

L. d. Pierleoni


Via dei Cerchi

Via d

i

S. Sabina


Lung. A

ventin

o

PiazzaPiazzaBocca d.Bocca d.

VeritaVerita

Lun

g. R

ipa

Porto di R

ipa Gra

nde

Lung. A

ventin

o

Via dei Cerchi

PALATINEHILL

PALATINEHILL



Piazza diSan Marco

Via Anici

a

Piazza inPiscinula

V. d. Genovesi PiazzaMastaiPiazzaMastai

V. S. Francesco



Museo di RomaMuseo di Roma

V. Monserrato

V. d. P

ettinari

PiazzaleUgo

La Malfa

S. Sabina

S. Alessio

PiazzaleUgo

La Malfa

PiazzaAlbania

Largo ManlioGelsomini

Piazzad. Emporio

Piazza d.Tempio di Diana

Piazza d.ServilliPiazza d.

Testaccio

PiazzaAlbania

PARCO D.S. ALESSIOPARCO D.

S. ALESSIO

Via Marm

orata

Lung

. Test

accio

Via Marm

orata


V. Manlio Gelsomini

V. S

. Dom

enico

V

ia S. M

elania

V. S. G

regorio

V. d. Prisca

V. d. Term

e D

ecia

ne

Via S. Alessio V. Marcella

V. d. Pta. Lavernale

V. Manlio Gelsomini

Piazzad. Emporio

PonteSublicoPonteSublico

Lung

. Test

accio

Via d

i

S. Sabina

SantaCeciliaSantaCecilia

V. Petroselli

PiazzaBocca d.

Verita


V. S

. Dom

enico

V

ia S. M

elania

Piazza d.Servilli

V. S. M

ichele

Lun

g. R

ipa

Porto di R

ipa Gra

nde

Piazza diPorta

Portese

Piazza diPorta

Portese

Piazza d.Testaccio

PIAZZA CAMPOD. FIORI


PiazzaCapizucchi

TESTACCIOTESTACCIO Via

le A

vent

ino

Via

le A

vent

ino

V. S. G

regorio

V. d. Prisca

V. d. Term

e D

ecia

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Via S.

Anselmo

Via S.


S. Sabina

S. Alessio


S. AnselmoS. Anselmo

L. d. Vallati

L. d. Vallati

Pte

Cest

ioPt

eFa

brici

o

Pte

Cest

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brici

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L. d. Anguillara

L. d. Anguillara

Santa Mariain AracoeliSanta Mariain Aracoeli

PiazzaVeneziaPiazza

Venezia Anselm

o

1

2

3

Catacombs of San Callisto

Appian Way (Appia Antica)

Testaccio

Il Seme e la Foglia

Aventine Hill

Jewish Ghetto

Tiber Island

Tiber Cruise

5

6

7

84

4

100 meters

0

0

1/8 mile

7

V. Portico V. Catalana


8

5

Via Portuense

se

Via Portuense

se

V. Am

erigo V

espucci

V. G

iovanni Bra

nca

V.Giovanni Batt Bodoni

Via Nicola Zabaglia

V. Am

erigo V

espucci

V. G

iovanni Bra

nca


Via Nicola Zabaglia

V. Galvani

V. Galvani 3

6

1

2 �

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Tiber (

Tevere

) Riv

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18

The Best in Three DaysTh

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est

Full-

Day

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urs

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19

One of the best and most surprising things about Rome ishow quickly you can escape the urban chaos and enjoy the rus-

tic tranquillity of the city’s greener areas, just a few miles away fromthe tourist hordes. On your third day, visit the catacombs andbreathe the spicy, rural air along the history-saturated Appian Way.Then, go for a stroll in the contrasting, adjacent neighborhoods ofTestaccio and the Aventine. Finish the day back in the centro storicowith a walk through the Jewish Ghetto and Tiber Island. (Alterna-tively, get out of town entirely, and go for a day trip to Ostia Antica orTivoli. See p 150 and 148.) START: Take bus 118 or a taxi to the Cata-

combe di San Callisto on the Appian Way (the entrance is 3.2km/2

miles south of Porta San Sebastiano gate).

The Best in

Three D

ays

ANCIENTROME

AVENTINEHILL

TRASTEVERE

Pont

e

Gari

bald

i

Ponte

Palatino

Largo diTorre

Argentina

Pte Sis

to

ISOLATIBERINA

Vial

e di

Tras

teve

re

Via Anici

a

V. d. Genovesi

V. S. Francesco

V. S. M

ichele


V. d. Pellegrino V. d. Plebiscito

Via Botteghe Oscure

Via

Are

nula

Lung. R. Sanzio

V. Monserrato

V. d. P

ettinari

Piazza did’Aracoeli

Piazza diSan Marco

PiazzaCapizucchi

V

Teatro diMarcello Lung. de Cenci

Piazza G.G.Belli Piazza in

Piscinula

L. d. Pierleoni V. Petroselli


Via dei Cerchi

Via d

i

S. Sabina

o

Lung. A

ventin

o

PiazzaBocca d.

Verita

Lun

g. R

ipa

Porto di R

ipa Gra

nde

PALATINEHILL


PiazzaMastai


Museo di Roma

PiazzaleUgo

La Malfa

S. Sabina

S. Alessio

PiazzaAlbania


Piazzad. Emporio


Piazza d.ServilliPiazza d.

Testaccio

PARCO D.S. ALESSIO

Via Marm

orata

Lung

. Test

accio

V. Manlio Gelsomini

V. S

. Dom

enico

V

ia S. M

elania

V. S. G

regorio

V. d. Prisca

V. d. Term

e D

ecia

ne



PonteSublico

SantaCecilia

Piazza diPorta

Portese


TESTACCIO Via

le A

vent

ino

o

Via S. Anselm

o

S. Anselmo

L. d. Vallati

Pte

Cest

ioPt

eFa

brici

o

L. d. Anguillara

Santa Mariain Aracoeli

PiazzaVenezia


Via Portuense

se

V. Am

erigo V

espucci

V. G

iovanni Bra

nca


Via Nicola Zabaglia

V. Galvani

�

�

1 ★★★ Catacombs of San Cal-listo. Nineteen kilometers (12 miles)and four levels of hand-dug tunnelsmake up the underground networkof Rome’s largest catacombs, hometo the tombs of half a million Chris-tians, buried here from the 1st to the4th centuries A.D. Deep within thecomplex, a labyrinth of 9m-high (30-ft.) tunnels, whose walls are per-forated up to the ceiling with loculi(tomb niches), is especially impres-sive (and uncannily reminiscent ofcollege library stacks). See also p 46. @ 45 min. Via Appia Antica110. y 06-5130151. Admission 6�.Open Thurs–Tues 8:30am–noon,2:30–5pm. Bus: 118.

2 ★★★ Appian Way. Few places in Rome transport you toancient times as well as the ViaAppia Antica, whose black basaltcobblestones, still bearing thewheel ruts of ancient cart traffic,stretch south of the city from PortaSan Sebastiano. A few miles fromthe city walls, a rustic, agrarian land-scape opens up on either side of the 4th-century-B.C. highway; thescenery is scattered with imposingor modest remains of ancient tombsand villas, and shepherds driveflocks of sheep from pasture to pasture, right across the “Queen of Roads.” Even the scent of theAppian Way is ripe with antiquity:Once you smell it, the combinationof bright notes of umbrella pine nee-dles, musty sunbaked brick andmarble, and the acrid pungency of leaves burning in farmyardsbecomes indelible in your memory.See also p 94. @ 1 hr. Bus: 118.

3 ★★ Testaccio. Anchored by anartificial hill made of ancient potterycast-offs and populated by salt-of-the-earth romani de’ Roma (and theodd sheep or goat), the authenticneighborhood of Testaccio oozescharacter. See also p 72. @ 1 hr.Metro: Piramide. Bus: 30, 60, 75, 95,118, or 170. Tram: 3.

A corridor in the Catacombs of San Callisto.

05_381724-ch01.qxp 10/15/08 12:06 AM Page 19

4 ★ Il Seme e la Foglia. Withviews of the old slaughterhouse andthe potsherds of Monte Testaccio,this hip corner joint is a great placefor a casual, quick lunch of enormousand tasty salads and sandwiches. ViaGalvani 18. y 06-5743008. $–$$.

A wall-fountain at Santa Sabina.

5 ★★★ Aventine. Oblivious tothe noise of the centro below, Aven-tine Hill is mostly residential, andhome to several churches, whosedignified and simple red-brick exteri-ors and grassy grounds are a wel-come contrast from the fussyfacades and cramped quarters ofmany Roman churches. The 5th-cen-tury-A.D. church of Santa Sabina iscavernous and calming—a sublimeexample of the basilican form. @ 1hr. Metro: Circo Massimo. Bus: 30, 60,75, 81, 95, 118, 175, or 628. Tram: 3.

6 ★★ Jewish Ghetto. As thearea where Roman Jews were con-fined from the 16th to the 19th centuries, the medieval quarterbetween the Capitoline and the

Tiber has seen its share of darkdays. Today, however, the Ghetto isan upbeat, characteristic part of thecentro storico that many touristsmiss. From towering ancient ruinslike the Theater of Marcellus, tosculptural gems like the Fountain ofthe Tortoises in Piazza Mattei, to thetriumphant synagogue, this smallarea has a lot to see. See also p 66.

@ 45 min. Bus: 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 81,87, 170, 271, 492, or 628. Tram: 8.

7 ★★ Tiber Island. This boat-shaped protuberance in the middleof the river, between the Ghetto andTrastevere, is an oasis of calm; eversince the Greek god of medicine,Aesculapius, washed up here dis-guised as a snake, the island hasbeen the city’s sanctuary of medi-cine. Check out the lower prome-nade (water level permitting), withits great views of the ancient bridgesnearby. See also p 66. @ 30 min.Bus: 23, 30, 40, 62, 64, 70, 81, 87,170, 271, 280, 492, or 628. Tram: 8.

8 ★★ Tiber Cruise. If you havetime, going for a ride on the Battellidi Roma riverboat service (alsoknown as “Bateaux Rome”) is a greatway to relax while seeing Rome fromthe interesting perspective of thishistoric waterway, now largely over-looked by the modern city. You cancruise all the way up to the Foro Ital-ico (p 131) for a sunset stroll amongthe Fascist-inspired athletic cultmosaics and statues. @ 11⁄2 hr.

y 06-97745496. www.rexervation.com/crociere.asp. From 12�. Bus: 23,271, 280, or H. Tram: 8. •

20Th

e B

est

Full-

Day

To

urs

Tiber Island is an oasis of calm.

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