0511_jmd-enameling.pdf
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Jw Mk D t
How to Enamel Jewelry:
Expert Enameling
Tips, Tools,and Techniques
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How to Enamel Jewelry:Expert EnamelingTips, Tools, and Techniques
3
InTErwEavE noT To bE rEprInTEd all rIgHTs rEsErvEd
his pemium has bee published by Iteweae, 201 E. Fouth St., Loelad, CO 80537-5655; (970) 669-7672. Copyiht 2011 by Iteweae Pess LLC, a diisio o Aspie Media,
all ihts eseed. he cotets o this publicatio may ot be epoduced eithe i whole o i pat without coset o the copyiht owe.
I LOvE COLOr! I jewely maki,eamel is oe o the most esatile
souces o pue, luscious colopow-
deed lass you ca apply with eat
pecisio oto sile, old, coppe, ad
othe jewely metals. With eamels,
you ca pait with a boad bush o
add miute ad elaboate detail to
pedats, bacelets, eais, ad moe.
You ca wok i ich, satuated toes
o i the subtlest o pastels. You ca ceate a wold o shap
cotast i black ad white o oe etiely o shades o ay.
You ca ee mimic the colos o the est emstoes, but you
ca also poduce hues ad pattes youd ee d amo thetays o stoes at ay em show.
I this abulous ee eBook,Jewelry Making Daily presents
How to Enamel Jewelry: Expert Enameling Tips, Tools, and
Techniques, youll d thee useul ad ispii uides to mak-
i eameled jewely. I Eameli, Lapidary Journal Jewelry
Artist s techique ad tool mae Hele Dis aswes the
questio What is eamel, shows you whats i the metal-
smiths eameli tool kit, ad explais some basic eameliules o the oad. I 21 Eameli ips, Hele shaes 21 top
tips om Maiae Hute, Amy rope Lyos, Kae L. Cohe,
ad Majoie Simoou o the most accomplished eamel-
ist jeweles woki today! Ad i Eameled Filiee Beads,
Pam East walks you thouh a simple techique o toch i
eamel oto a pemade bead usi a hadheld butae toch
istead o a eameli kil. Te eamel adds colo to the
bead, while the sile liee ceates the look o delicate cells
like those i cloiso eamel wok.
Whethe youe just exploi jewely eameli o the st
time o hae bee eameli jewely o yeas,Jewelry Making
Daily presents How to Enamel Jewelry: Expert Enameling Tips,
Tools, and Techniques is sue to teach you somethi ew
about oe o the jeweles most exciti ad coloul tech-
iques.
Merle WhiteEdito-i-Chie, Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist
EnamEling
BY HELEn I. DrIggS
21 EnamEling Tips
BY HELEn I. DrIggS
7
EnamElEd FiligrEE BEads
BY PAM EAST
10
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How to Enamel Jewelry:Expert EnamelingTips, Tools, and Techniques
II hae always loed the gleaming colors o transparent glass.
My mom had a display window where she organized her
collection o antique cobalt blue glass and lead crystal so the
sun could shine through it. I loed watching the mini rainbowsmoe across the liing room ceiling and walls as the sunlight
was split into prismatic colors by cut glass. Its only natural that
the gleam o glass on metal appeals to meespecially in the
orm o transparent enamels.
Te world o enamels requires a dierent mindset than
metal orming and abrication. Because o my graphic design
training, it was a relatiely easy transition to start painting color
on metal in the orm o powdered glass. Te most important
thing to do when enameling is to eep eerything clean. And by
clean, I mean really, really clean. One small particle o dust or a
grain o a dierent color o enamel can ruin hours o wor.
Contamination is always a hazard, so go slowly and be
careul as you worand remember, it is extremely important
to label eerything. Because fred glass loos dierent rompowdered glass, mae sure you write the color number on both
the storage jar and its lid. Dont open more than one jar at a
time. Stic to one brand i you can, and eep those enamels dry.
When in doubt, throw it out is a motto used in the itchen
that wors equally in the enameling studio.
Despite these constraints, its easy to get started enameling,
and with a small inestment in tools and supplies , you can
create a gleaming stone o colorul glass on metal to set into
your next bezel. And, metal clay artists: good news! Tere are
cool new enamel products and tools or you, too!
EnamelingAdd a little color
to your metal
BY HELEn I. DrIggS
Originally publisheD in Lapidary JournaL JeweLry artist, July 2009
OPENING PHOO BY JIM LAWSON
SORY PHOOS BY HE AUHOR(UNLESS OHERWISE NOED)
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How to Enamel Jewelry:Expert EnamelingTips, Tools, and Techniques
mETalsmiTHs EnamEling Tool kiTI coeted a simple, used aae sale table ito my eameli statio. I coe the tabletop with esh, white butche pape (you ca buy it
i olls at a estauat supply o bulk ood stoe) eey time I wok. Hees a list o the tools I keep i my eamel kit:
1. Paticulate dust maskcitically impotat
2. Apo
3. EamelsI oly useuleaded eamels
4. Eamel stoae jas
5. Solutio o holdieamel to metaloilo wate base
6. Distilled wate7. Mesh staies
8. Detal tools
9. Sable bushes oeamel oly
10. Sable bush o holdisolutio oly
11. Stilts ad mesh stads
12. Fii ok o spatula
13. Fuace oo shel
14. Fuace/kil
Also: Kiln wash, lint-free paper
towels, clean Solderite pad forenamel only
I leaed this tick om some lampwokes I kow. Sice I use a small tiket kil to e my eamel pieces, I set it up o my stailess
steel soldei statio o a sheet o Hadibacke boad om the Home Depot. Tis liht ay solid cemet backe boad is commoly
used behid ceamic tile, but it is extemely e esistat ad elatiely iexpesie. It comes i 3' x 5' sheets o about $10 to $15, ad
you ca coe a lae soldei aea with it. I still aeal i a aeali pa, ad solde o a ebick, but the Hadibacke is a exta
measue o heat potectio. Ie ee had a oeheati poblem aywhee i the studio sice I stated usi it. Whe it ets eally
oss, I eplace it with a esh sheet.
EnamElingBY HELEn I. DrIggS
gradE mEsH FirsT
Because eamel is cushed lass, most batches eed to be
ade sited o the best colo ad eliable behaio. Oce you et
those little eelopes o colo, youll eed to et you eamel eady
to use, so a hady tool to ow is a set o mesh tays with specic
umbes o holes pe ich. I puchased a set o tays that icludes a
solid oe o the bottom, so I ca stack the tays om laest mesh
to smallest, ad pou the powdeed lass i the topit will sit
thouh to the est mesh i the bottom. Te, I obsessiely label
each stoae ja ad lid with the ade, mauactue, ad colo
umbe. I use ed lids o opaque colos, ad white o taspaet.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
910
11
12
13 14
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How to Enamel Jewelry:Expert EnamelingTips, Tools, and Techniques
EnamElingBY HELEn I. DrIggS
Easily wasH and drain your EnamElsBeliee it o ot, plai, white, at-bottom coee ltes ad a uel ae the best way to dai eamels you hae washed. Tis is especially
impotat with taspaet eamels, ot as citical o opaques. Fist, put a coee lte ito the uel ad place these ito a ja o lass to
catch the wash wate. Dot pou the wash wate dow the dai! Let it eapoate, ad wipe the esidue out o the ja oto a pape towel.
Dispose o that pape towel i the tash. Hees how to wash you eamel:
4 5 6
1 2 3
EnamEl TEsT FirE samplEsIts almost impossible to detemie what colo ay paticula eamel will be based
o a chip you see i a pited catalo o website. Ee whe youe odeed
eamel, powdeed lass ad ed lass look ey dieet, ad the metal you e ito will aect the al esult. Its a ood idea to ceate a test stip o eey eamel
you buy, so you ca detemie what the esults miht be o you kil, you ux,
you eamel, o you metal. Hees what to do:
Cut a ich by 1 ich stip o 24-aue coppe. Pickle ad ise well. Puch a
hai hole i the cete o the top ede. Use umeal stamps to puch the
eamel colo umbe o the stip. With a scibe, ule 4 lies (stati at the bottom
ede) at ich icemets. Scub both sides o the coppe with clease ad steel
wool util wate sheets o the suace. rise well ad dy without touchi the
metal suace.
Photo 1 Pou a small amout o desiedeamel ito a clea shot lass with staiht
sides.
Photo 2 Add some distilled wate ad swil
the eamel ad wate aoud.
Photo 3 Let the shot lass sit o a miuteo two.
Photo 4 Pou o the wash wate (ot the
eamel) ito the coee lte.
Photo 5 repeat this pocess util the washwate us clea. Tis usually takes 2 to 3
washis.
Photo 6 ase the washed eamel to a
stoae cotaie ad label it.
a | sit enamel directly on themetal. Fire and clean well.
B | sit enamel oer enamel lux.Fire and clean well.
C | sit enamel oer a strip osiler oil. Fire and clean well.
D | sit enamel oer a strip ogold oil. Fire and clean well.
Counter enamel the bac o
the strip.
I you intend to enamel on siler
instead o copper, ollow the
same process to mae a siler
test ire sample, but eliminate
section C, because you probably
wouldnt use siler oil on a
siler piece.
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How to Enamel Jewelry:Expert EnamelingTips, Tools, and Techniques
EnamElingBY HELEn I. DrIggS
EnamEl Tools For mETal clay arTisTs
TorcH FirEd EnamElsoch i eamels is a somewhat hai-aisi expeiece, because the esults ae completely
upedictable. Oxides om the metal will mix with the molte lass as you put the wok
to the toch, ad ote beautiul speckled, pock maks o staied aeas o ee, black, o
olde bow will leach ito the lass as you e.
t h E r E a r E 3 i m P o r t a n t t h i n g s t o r E m E m B E r i f y o u D
l i k E t o t r y t o r C h f i r i n g :
1 Wok i a well-etilated studio whe you toch e. You piece miht smoke as the
adhesie bus away, especially i you ae usi a oil based poduct.
2 A popae-ueled toch bus cleae, so iest i a potable popae plumbi toch om
the hadwae stoe i youd like to ty this techique.
3 Keep the piece at the base o the ame to aoid excess oxidatio. Fie om the udeside topesee the colo o the lass o the ot, ad e util the colo o the wok is a oeall,lowi billiat ed. Cool the wok o a stilt o heatpoo Pyex dish beoe moi it.
Althouh I haet used metal clay ey much, I hae to admit they
keep comi up with ew, itiui poducts that make me wat
to ie it a ty. A ew poduct called raibow Metal Clay Ultimate
Eameli Kit seems like a iteesti way to exploit the plastic
quality o metal clayyou ca mix coloed eamel iht i beoe you
e it. o me, this seems like a way to eplicate the look o aodized
titaium o alumium. You ca also add the eamel colo ate the
metal clay has bee ed. Tis kit woks with low e clays, ad icludes
a complete istuctio maual. Ill hae to check this poduct out
sometime soo, because it eally ot me thiki about etti the
look o textued o oed aodized titaium without the iheet
diculties o woki with it.
Aothe kit that came acoss my desk is called Its Colosby Shei
Haab desis, ad woks o metal clay ad othe o-poous mateials.
Powdeed pimets ae mixed with a liquid bide ad paited o bae
metal. Te, you use a heat u to set the colo to make it had ad
duable. I haet ued out exactly what Ill do with these, but I kow
oe thi o suei the colos tu out to be compatible with 2-pat
epoxy esi, Ill deitely be putti them to use.
I hope to expeimet with these kits whe I et some time.
You ca et them both hee: www.metalclaysupply.com,
800-388-2001 o 903-586-2531.
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How to Enamel Jewelry:Expert EnamelingTips, Tools, and Techniques
Originally publisheD in Lapidary JournaL JeweLry artist, July 2009
21 Enameling TipsGuidance from four expert enamelists
BY HELEn I. DrIggS
ENAMELWORk CAN BE DONE A MANY LEvELS,
DRAWING ON HE SkILLS OF HE GOLDSMIH,
PAINER, AND CHEMIS. HERE ARE SOME GREA
IPS FROM FOUR ARISS WHO HAvE DEvOED HEIR
CAREERS O MASERING HE AR OF GLASS ON MEAL.
M A R I A N N E H U N E Rw w w . h u n t e r - s t u d i o s . c o m
1Beak ules. Bei tauht is wodeul, but also ty what catbe doe. Te esults may be a majo beakthouh o you wok, i
ot o the eld i eeal. Beaki ew oud is a thill.
2Fo some detailed sots o wok, thie layes o lass built upbetwee moe equet is ca ie you a eate measue o
cotol.
3It is bette i most istaces to udee (you ca put it backi the kil) tha to oeei which detail is lost, ad colos ,
especially sesitie eds/piks/puples, ca be siicatly alteed.
Howee: oei is a useul techique to exploe. Lumious
beauty ca be achieed thee (see tip #1).
4 Little bechtop cotact kils ae peect o small pieces. Teyuse less eey, i is quick, ad timi ey cotollable.
5 I coe the opei i the top o my bechtop kil with a shieldIe made om may layes o olded alumium oil. I pop it i
place ad moe it with 7" tweezes o access. Tis keeps the heat i,
which helps whe i o a tiet ad is healthie o you eyes.
6A aloe ea plat ea the studio is eat o bus! aped iplace, it will cool a 2d deee bu eouh to keep woki (but weecommed ot bui yousel as a ee bette alteatie!).
7You ca ee hae too may X-acto kie blades.
8Cleai coppe with Pey-bite is much easie tha usi aBiht Boy.
DaWn Dragonfly. DAWN DRAGONFLY PAINED IN MIS, CLOUDS ON HEWAER, FLOWERS IN H E FIELDS. PHOO: HAP SAkWA. PRIvAE COLLECION.
http://www.hunter-studios.com/http://www.hunter-studios.com/http://www.hunter-studios.com/ -
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How to Enamel Jewelry:Expert EnamelingTips, Tools, and Techniques
21 EnamEling tiPsBY HELEn I. DrIggS www.JewelyMakiDaily.com 8
AMY ROPER LYONSw w w . a m y r o p e r l y o n s . c o m
9 extue the suace o you e sile beoe eameli withtaspaets. Whe the piece is ished, it will look moe alie as
liht plays acoss its suace.
10 As you slowly ll you cloiso cells laye by laye, i youchae you mid about a aea, o dot like how some colo is
comi out, lay dow sile o old oil to coe that aea ad you
ca bei to ll aai with a ew colo.
11aspaets i ey small cells ted to look dak, ad thecolos dull. remedy this by usi a opaque, o by usi oil ude
you taspaet colo to bihte it.
12o apply aules o old o sile to the suace o youeamel piece, ish all othe eameli steps, ad stoe ad sad
you piece to a e ish, about 1200 it. Usi a diamod ball
bu, id a small depessio i the exact spot that you wat each
aule to sit. Te place the aules with Kly-Fye. Tis way, the
aules wot moe aoud as the lass sotes i the kil.
13Use stailess steel i acks to elimiate oxide aki o theack, which ca cotamiate you eamel.
kAREN L. COHENw w w . k c e n a m e l s . c o m
14 Whe woki with sile (e o steli), be sue to puta laye o clea eamel ude the wam colos like eds, piks, ad
oaes ad opalescet white. Without the clea, these colos hae
chemical eactios to the sile ad will chae to what you ae ot
expecti.
15 Whe wet-packi with opaque colos, put i a ew dops oKly-Fie to help keep them i place.
16 Whe wet-packi taspaet colos, be sue to keep youlayes thithis will help achiee the best claity o colo.
17 Sometimes whe i taspaet eamels o coppe thecolo has a tomato-ed cast to it. Tis is because the oxide i the
coppe has ot bee take ito the solutio o the eamel. I some
cases you miht wat this, but to et the cleaest colo ty this: put
dow a base coat o clea taspaet ad e it hih eouh ad
lo eouh so that the tomato colo is oe.
starfish Pin/PEnDant. 1.25" DIAMETER, 0.3 D. 18k AND 24k GOLD, ENAMEL ONFINE SILvER. CLOISONN ENAMEL, HOLLOW-FORMED, AND FABRICATED. PHOTO BY THE ARTIST.
PaislEy
PlEasurEs.
CLOISONN BROOCH.
http://www.amyroperlyons.com/http://www.amyroperlyons.com/http://www.kcenamels.com/http://www.kcenamels.com/http://www.kcenamels.com/http://www.amyroperlyons.com/ -
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How to Enamel Jewelry:Expert EnamelingTips, Tools, and Techniques
21 EnamEling tiPsBY HELEn I. DrIggS
MARJORIE SIMONw w w . m a r j o r i e s i m o n . c o m
18Haispay i a pump bottle makes a eat adhesie. Beialcohol based, it dies quicke tha Kly-Fie ad you ca pou
a little ito a souf cup ad mix it up just like wate to apply
eamel with a bush.
19Fo eamelists like me who ae petty much shake-ad-bake, e a st coat with ade-sited 80 mesh ais (held
oto the metal with haispay, o couse), the ll i a secod
coat with 100 mesh o a smooth coat ad ood coeae. Te
lae ais ie moe itese colo ad the smalle oes ll i
aoud them o the secod coat.
20Oh, ad ee, ee multi-task while i!
ENAMELIS SOCIEYw w w . e n a m e l i s t s o c i e t y . o r g
21Lea moe about eamels om the Eamelist Society,a eat esouce o iomatio suitable o eamelists om
complete beies to expeieced poessioals.
sElECtion of rED Ear Disks. 1" DIAMETER. vITREOUSENAMEL ON EMBOSSED COPPER. PHOTO: RALPH GABRINER.
http://www.marjoriesimon.com/http://www.marjoriesimon.com/http://www.marjoriesimon.com/http://www.enamelistsociety.org/http://www.enamelistsociety.org/http://www.enamelistsociety.org/http://www.marjoriesimon.com/ -
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How to Enamel Jewelry:Expert EnamelingTips, Tools, and Techniques
Enameled Filigree BeadsAdd a touch of color to these delicate beads.
BY PAM EAST
Originally publisheD in step by step beads | Marchapril 2004
s k i l l s
n fabricationn solderingn stone settingn bead stringing
In October, 2003, I had the pleasure o
being inoled in the Lapidary Journal
and Step by Step Beads Bead Fest.
One o the best aspects o participating
in a show lie this is the opportunity to
connect with other endors and artists,
picing up new ideas and inspiration.
During the show, Cosmo, o Cosmo andHarini, came by my booth and watched me
demonstrating torch-fred enamel bead
maing. A short time later, he came bac
and showed me some fne siler fligree
beads he was selling and ased, Can you
enamel these? I wasnt sure, but I thought
it might be worth a try.
Right then and there, I pulled out some powdered enamel in transparent blue,
popped one o the beads onto my mandrel, and gae it a go. o my surprise and
delightit wored beautiully! O course, I immediately wanted a double handul
o these little beauties. Once you try it, you will too!
I recommend using these beads or earrings and neclaces, not
bracelets. Te enamel on the fligree is ragile and would suer
under the abuse bracelets endure.
Note: Sile ca act as a coloat to some eamels, tui them a
uattactie bowish colo; eds, piks, ad oaes ae paticulaly
susceptible to this. Blue ad ee shades wok best, but you ca
et some success with eds i you use seeal coats o Clea o
Sile st. Te esults wot be as billiat as these colos usually
e up, but you ca et some ice sot pik toes.
PHOTO OF FINISHED PIECE BY FRANk DESANTIS; ALL OTHERPHOTOS COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR.
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How to Enamel Jewelry:Expert EnamelingTips, Tools, and Techniques
EnamElED filigrEE BEaDsBY PAM EAS
m a t e r i a l s
Busiess cad8" ceamic tile12" ceamic tilevemiculite (a soil lihtee)
Shallow pa80 mesh taspaet eamelFie sile liee beads
t o o l s
hanD tools: 6" slip joit plies," madel tip, badi wheel (at
topped lazy Susa), small spoo
solDEring tools: ie-stat
popae toch, toch holde, popaecylide400 (14.1 oz)
s a f e t y e q u i p m e n t
Fie extiuishe, saety lasses, dust mask
s o u r c e s
Most o the tools ad mateials othis poject will be aailable omwell-stocked lapiday supplies.
1 Lay out a taspaet colo o 80 mesheamel o the ede o the tile; I ecommeda deep, hih pile. Because youe eameli a
oud om, youll eed the moud to be able
to coe the bead all the way to the hole.
2 Place a bead mly o the " madel tip.Youll eed to use you es, ot plies, to
put the bead o the madel, so make sue
the madel tip is cool. Fie-sile liee
beads ae quite delicate ad ca bed easily,
so be cautious with them, ad dot oce it.
Hae two madels set up so you ca switchback ad oth, allowi the tips to cool
betwee beads.
3 Heat the bead i the toch ame util ittus a liht pik salmo colo, not ed. Tese
sile beads heat up i othi at so watch
it closely: the sile will oeheat ad melt i
the blik o a eye i you leae it i the toch
ame too lo.
4 roll the bead i powdeed eamel adetu it to the toch ame. Cotiue woki
quickly, heati it just eouh to pick up
aothe laye o eamel. Dot ty to et it to
a lossy ish util youe added 4 o 5 layes;
thee eeds to be eouh eamel o the sile
to isulate it om the toch ame.
5 Oce you hae multiple layes o eamelo the bead, heat it to the lossy stae bywoki the bead quickly i ad out o the
toch ame, otati it cotiuously. remoe
the bead om the madel, usi plies to
push it o ito a shallow pa o emiculite.
6 Tats all thee is to it! Tese beads dotee eed to be aealed ad will be cool ad
eady to use i about e miutes.
PAM EAS is a eamelist, educato, wie, ad
mothe. She was bo ad aised i Calioiawhee she studied At ad At Histoy at
the Uiesity o Calioia rieside. She
has woked with a wide aiety o isual at
techiques ad ejoys ceati uique eamel
bead jewely, but ds itoduci eamel
bead maki to ew studets eeywhee to
be the most ewadi aspect o he caee.
She has appeaed o the Caol Duall Show o
Hgv, ad has he ow ideo, Enamel Bead
Makingwith Pam East. You ca cotact Pam
at [email protected] o lea moe about he
compay, Pizat, at www.pizat.com.
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