00-front matter str1 - lonely planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/street-food-preview.pdf ·...

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Introduction 06

Kati Roll India 82

Kelewele Ghana 84

Khao Soi Thailand 86

Knish USA 88

Kuaytiaw Thailand 90

Kushari Egypt 92

Lángos Hungary 94

Maine Lobster Roll USA 96

Mangue Verte Senegal 98

Man'oushe Lebanon 100

Masala Dosa India 102

Meat Pie Australia 104

Mohinga Myanmar (Burma) 106

Murtabak Malaysia & Singapore 108

Otak-Otak 110

Singapore, Malaysia & Indonesia

Oyster Cake Hong Kong 112

Pane, Panelle e Crocchè Italy 114

Pastizzi Malta 116

Peso Pizza Cuba 118

Phat Kaphrao Thailand 120

Phat Thai Thailand 122

Pho Vietnam 124

Pierogi Poland 126

Pizza al Taglio Italy 128

Poisson Cru French Polynesia 130

Poutine Canada 132

Pretzel USA 134

Pupusa El Salvador 136

Red Red Ghana 138

Roasted Chestnuts Europe 140

Sabih Israel 142

Salteña Bolivia 144

Samosa India 146

Samsa Central Asia 148

Sarawak Laksa Malaysia 150

Sfi ha Lebanon 152

Som Tam Thailand 154

Spring Roll China 156

Stinky Tofu Taiwan 158

Taco Mexico 160

Takoyaki Japan 162

Tamale Mexico 164

Walkie-Talkies South Africa 166

Yangrou Chuan China 168

Zapiekanka Poland 170

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* Savoury *

Acarajé Brazil 12

Arancino Italy 14

Balık Ekmek Turkey 16

Bamboo Rice Taiwan 18

Banh Mi Vietnam 20

Baozi China 22

Bhelpuri India 24

Bo Bia Vietnam 26

Breakfast Burrito USA 28

Brik Tunisia 30

Bsarra Morocco 32

Bún Cha Vietnam 34

Burek Bosnia & Hercegovina 36

Cevapcici Croatia 38

Ceviche de Corvina Peru 40

Chivito al Pan Uruguay 42

Chole Batura India 44

Choripán Argentina 46

Cicchetti Italy 48

Cocktel de Camarón Mexico 50

Conch Bahamas 52

Cornish Pasty England 54

Currywurst Germany 56

Elote Mexico 58

Felafel Israel 60

Fuul Mudammas Egypt 62

Gordita Mexico 64

Gözleme Turkey 66

Gyros Greece 68

Hainanese Chicken Rice 70

Malaysia & Singapore

Hollandse Nieuwe Haring 72

The Netherlands

Hopper Sri Lanka 74

Hot Dog USA

Jerked Pork 78

Jamaica & Carribbean Islands 76

Juane Peru 80

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* Conte

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* Sweet *

Açai na Tigela Brazil 174

Baklava Turkey 176

BeaverTails Pastry Canada 178

Bliny Russia 180

Chimney Cake Hungary 182

Churro Spain 184

Crepe France 186

Daulat ki Chaat India 188

Douhua 190

China, Singapore & Taiwan

Egg Waffl e Hong Kong 192

Gelato Italy 194

Hotteok South Korea 196

Ice Kacang Malaysia 198

Jalebi India 200

Martabak Manis Indonesia 202

Masala Chai India 204

Mithaa Paan India 206

Pastel de Belém Portugal 208

Sfenj Morocco 210

Sopaipilla Chile 212

Glossary 214

Authors 222

Index 220

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with a technique well honed by experience. I

was mesmerised. Dried shrimp and peanuts

were dropped in. Pound, pound, mix, mix, mix.

Then palm sugar and tomatoes. Pound, pound,

mix, mix. And lime juice and fi sh sauce. Pound,

pound, mix. Then a mass of green papaya, cut

into the thinnest of strands. One fi nal mix, and

it was dumped onto a polystyrene tray and

handed over.

I took a bite. The fi rst taste was sharp and

fresh, then salty, from the chewy dried shrimp.

Sweetness came next, underscoring and

smoothing every discordant note. Tomatoes

jostled with peanuts and crisp green beans as

they swirled around my mouth. An involuntary

smile spread across my face. This was food

like I’d never tasted before, big, ballsy and

beautifully balanced, the sort of thing to restore

one’s faith in life, love, the universe…then the

chillies hit. Hard. So hard that my eyes fl ooded

with tears, my tongue seemed to swell and I

lost the power of speech. Even thinking hurt.

It took a full fi ve minutes for the pain to

subside, replaced by that heady endorphin

warmth sent in by the body to battle the pain.

I looked up. Both ladies were crying. But tears

of laughter rather than agony. ‘You like?’ asked

one, between fi ts of hysterics. ‘Yes,’ I managed

to mutter. ‘Hell yes.’

You never forget the fi rst time. Mine took

place, nearly 20 years back, on an insalubrious

backstreet in Bangkok’s Patpong. The

experience was brief, and fairly inglorious, but

remains seared in my soul forever. One taste

was all it took. The stall was little more than a

pushcart with a bright yellow awning. A tattered

advert for Carnation milk hung precariously

from the side while the owner, a small woman

in a Coca-Cola cap, gossiped incessantly with

a friend perched on a wobbly plastic stool.

Workspace was severely limited, as a huge

wooden pestle and mortar dominated the

display. Neatly arranged around it, like small

satellites circling the sun, were metal bowls

fi lled with ingredients of every hue.

As a street-food virgin, I wasn’t exactly sure

where to start. A friend more experienced in the

ways of the road had told me about som tam.

‘Just look for the stall with the fat, shiny green

fruit. And someone pounding the hell out of

their mortar.’ So I giggled nervously and pointed

at the plump papaya. The lady stopped her chat

and smiled back. ‘You want farang hot? Or Thai

hot?’ she asked as she threw a handful of green

beans into the dark wooden depths. ‘Umm,

Thai hot,’ I muttered, puffi ng out my chest.

‘OK,’ she answered, adding what seemed like

a suicidal amount of scud chillies, along with

a few cloves of garlic. She pounded and mixed

* Introduction *By Tom Parker Bowles

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T H ET H E T H E T H E T H EH WO R WO R WO R WO RWOW L D ' SL D ' SL D ' SL D ' S' SS B E S B E S B E SB E SB E SE ST STT STT STT STT ST R E E TR E E TR E E TR E E TR E E TTTT F O O F O O F O OF O F O O D D D ||| 0707


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Since then, street food has become my

obsession. Some travel to drink in the culture,

others to lap up the sun. I travel to eat, preferably

on the street. Because this is where you’ll fi nd

the real soul of a cuisine, somewhere among

the taco carts and noodle stalls and baskets of

herbs. Michelin stars hold little interest, with the

rarest of exceptions. And the tourist restaurants,

with their bland, dreary, ‘safe’ menus fi ll me with

gloom. No, my fi rst stop is always the street.

The scent of wood fi res and burning fat, the

glare of artifi cial lights, the natural hubbub of

regalement, and proper good cheer. No foams, or

smears or strangely shaped plates. No egos, or

supercilious sommeliers or dining rooms with all

the atmosphere of a morgue. Just food to make

the taste buds sing.

Some of the fi nest things to ever have passed

my lips have been eaten standing up, or sitting at

the most rickety of roadside tables, surrounded

by diesel fumes, cigarette smoke and noise.

There was that noodle soup in Luang Prabang,

the buff alo broth looking like melted amber, with

a depth I can only dream of re-creating. Or those

tacos al pastor from the hole in the wall in Mexico

City – thin shavings of pork doner kebab, mixed

with hot sauce, and fresh salsa, and lime. Then

wrapped in a steaming taco. Takoyaki (balls of

octopus-spiked batter), eaten in the freezing

Tokyo night, their outsides crisp, their innards just

the right side of molten. Baozi (Chinese steamed

buns) in Shanghai, oyster cakes in Bangkok and

panelle (chickpea-fl our fritters), all soft, salty

crunch, sold on a Palermo street corner. I could

go on and on and on. Street food is the most

democratic grub in the world, a place where

politician eats alongside peasant, and fl avours are

unashamedly bold. I like the fact that countries

with a strong street-food culture – Mexico,

Thailand, China, Malaysia and Vietnam, to name

but a few – take it very seriously indeed. Everyone

has their own view as to what makes the fi nest

tamales, samosas, stinky tofu, laksa or spring rolls.

That’s not to say that everything cooked up on

the sidewalk is edible gold. Far from it. There’s

a lot of tired, dirty, grease-soaked muck about.

However, armed with this tome, you’ll march

straight past the second-rate pretenders. Local

recommendations are worth their weight in spice,

and always look for queues. High turnover not

only means they must be getting something right,

but that the food’s cooked fresh too, as there isn’t

time for it to sit around. Lack of native language

is unimportant. Communication of pleasure and

delight is universal. A smile, or vigorous rubbing

of the gut. You get to see far more of an alien

culture from behind glowing charcoal or a wok

than through any number of guidebooks. Find a

busy stall, watch what the locals are ordering and

when you arrive at the front, just smile and point.

The only phrase you really need is ‘thank you’.

And don’t be afraid. Most street-food sellers are

delighted when a foreigner appreciates their work.

This is a book dedicated to some of the greatest

eating in the world. Clasp it to your chest and hit

the streets. Gastronomic bliss awaits.

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T H E T H E WO R WO R L D ' SL D ' S B E S B E SSSTT STSSTSTSTSTTT SSSTSTT STT SST RRRRRRR EEE EE TE TTR E F O O F O O D D || 0 9 T H E WO R L D ' S B E ST ST R E E T F O O D | 1 1

* Savoury *

Note Defi nitions for words in blue in the recipes can be found in the

glosssary on page 214.

Easy - A very basic recipe,

eg, putting together a

sandwich or tossing salad

ingredients.

Hands

Drinks

Knife * Fork * Spoon

Chopsticks

Spicy

Medium - Suitable for the

average home cook.

Complex - Several

parts to make, or lots of

ingredients to prepare,

or a specifi c technique

involved that may take

some practice.

Vegetarian

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Recipe Utensils


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