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History of Costume

Dark Ages – Restoration Period500 A.D. - 1715

The Dark Ages Saxon and Frankish Era 500-599 A.D. A continuation of the tunic

Belted at the waist or hip Men begin to wear trouser like garments Leggings Cloaks – fur lined & some wool

Fastened with brooches

Thomas, P.W. (2008) Early Clothing Costume History 500-1066AD: Saxon, Frankish & Anglo-Saxon Clothing retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/ancient_costume/clothing-saxon-frankish-anglo.htm

The Dark Ages The Anglo – Saxon Era 700 – 999

Similar to the Saxon & Frankish Era Hoods were added to cloaks in the 9th century The wrap over coat and waist coat appeared

Began to see class distinction through dress Nobility had embellishments on the collar, waist

or border of their tunics Nobility wore longer tunics Working class & Peasants wore plain shorter

tunics THINK MOVIE: King Arthur

The Dark Ages

Anglo-Saxon King & Queen

Anglo-Saxon Lady & Women

Anglo-Saxon Warrior & Man

Thomas, P.W. (2008) Early Clothing Costume History 500-1066AD: Saxon, Frankish & Anglo-Saxon Clothing retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/ancient_costume/clothing-saxon-frankish-anglo.htm

The Dark Ages The Anglo – Saxon Era 1000-1099

Men Continued to wear tunics but shorter Piercings became popular Coifs – flat, round caps Long stockings with feet & short boots

Women Long woolen gown – sometimes 2 layers

Inner gown tight sleeves; outer gown loose sleeves

Wore cloak or mantle over outer gown Began to wear head covering unless very young

Medieval/Middle Ages Early Period: 1100-1199

simple shaped fitted tunic for men Long, wide gown with decorative

embroidery for women The Bliaut was a dress worn by woman

or men in this time period. Hose took the place of trousers THINK MOVIE: Robin Hood

Medieval/Middle Ages After 1200 Men

Tight short clothes with long pointed shoes The longer the point the higher the status

Medieval/Middle Ages After 1200 Women

Began to use tight lacing on women's

to create a form fitting shape girdled at the hips created a long - waisted appearance

Long, trailing gowns Hennin, worn 1300- 1400,was a

cone-like hat resembling the spires of the cathedral spire.

THINK MOVIE: BraveHeart

Late Medieval Ages 1400-1500 Fashion in this era was

greatly influenced by the high class society and the European Kings and Queens.

The Surcoat was a popular fashion accessory for the men of this era.

Peasants had a lot of different clothing styles because each particular style identified the woman with her hometown.

Renaissance: 1400-1500 Shapes becoming rounder Accentuate Physique Drawers & Padding for men Codpiece for men

a decorative triangular piece of fabric attached at the groin.

Men wore blouses with exposed chest Pregnancy Pillows for Women

the maternal look was fashionable. Looser, sexier clothing THINK: Romeo & Juliet

.

Renaissance: 1400-1500

Renaissance: 1500 - 1600 Elizabethan Era Tighter, stiff, more rigid clothing Heavy and Luxurious Fabrics Slashing - cut in the outer surfaces of

garments doublets, sleeves and gowns exposed the contrasting color of the

linings beneath Ruff worn by both men & women

large stiff collar worn at this time.

Renaissance: 1500 - 1600 Elizabethan Era Farthingale for Women

stiff metal cone-shaped article worn under skirts

Corset V-Waist Accessories

Pearls, heeled shoes Tights for men THINK: Shakespeare in Love

Elizabethan Era 1500-1600

Cavalier 1620-1660France Begins to influence Fashion Fashion which said “I don’t have to work for a

living.” Sensual & Soft look, less stiffness Waistlines began to rise Ruffs were replaced by lace or linen collars Sleeves began to become fuller Men began wearing breeches instead of hose Accessories

Turned down boots Tall broad hats Ribbons & bows

Doublets were pointed and fitted close to the body, with tight sleeves

Sleeveless leather jerkins were worn by soldiers

Think “Three Musketeers”

Restoration 1660 - 1715Women’s Fashion Full, loose sleeves that end at elbow Tightly corseted Mantua

Hung from the shoulders to the floor worn for 'undress' wear

The overskirt was looped back and held by ribbon bows. Train length determined by social status

Hair worn in tight curls Got bigger and higher as the period went on

http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/restoration.htm

Restoration 1660 - 1715Men’s Fashion Breeches became very baggy Coat and Waist coat Ruffled long sleeved shirt Cravats worn over the neck Periwig

Wig worn by men throughout the period

http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/restoration.htm

Restoration 1660 - 1715

http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/restoration.htm

Historical Costume and the Movies Assignment

Directions:1. Go to email and open the document I

sent you.2. Find 12 pictures from 12 different

movies that represents 12 different time periods.

3. Paste the picture in the box provided, then fill in the information in the corresponding box.

4. Save your document, then email it to me when you are complete.

5. You will be getting more notes Friday and will have time to finish.

Movie Title: 300Time Period: Greek B.C.Evidence of Time Period: Greek Chiton dress with belts holding in placeHistorically Accurate: No, Chiton would cover whole torso front and back. You can tell double sided tape was used to hold dress in place.Website: http://photos.lucywho.com/queen-gorgo-photo-gallery-c16025998.html

Georgian 1700-1775Men’s Fashion Flat Front Breeches—breeches

with a buttoned front flap. The Justaucorps for men was the

forerunner of today’s suit coat. The Spencer was a short jacket

without tails. Queue—A long pigtail or ponytail

that men would wear on the back of the neck with their own hair or with their wig. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History.

Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/georgian.htm

Georgian 1700-1775

Thomas, P.W. (2008) King George III - 1760-1820 - Daily & Occupational Dress of Men. Retrieved from :http://www.fashion-era.com/english-costume/1760-1820-george-iii-mens-clothes.htm

Georgian 1700-1775Women’s Fashion Panniers—baskets made

of reed or whale bone held together with ribbon used to hold out the skirt The hoop was first funnel-

shaped, but from 1730s to 1740s grew very broad at the sides and flat front and back.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/georgian.htm

Georgian 1700-1775Women’s Fashion Watteau Gown— a loose sack or

dress, worn over a tight bodice and very full underskirt. The loose folds falling from the shoulders

in back became part of the skirt. The front of the gown varied in design,

either hanging loose or fitted at the waist, worn closed or open, and, if open, revealing a bodice and underskirt.

The elbow-length sleeves had vertical pleats and soft, wide cuffs.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/georgian.htm

Georgian 1700-1775Women’s Fashion Pompadour—large hair-do associated with

the French court and often had birds or toys placed in it.

Shepherdess Hat—A hat worn by fashionable women that resembled a shepardess hat. It was referring to the romantic life of the country.

Mob Cap—Large cap with soft, full crown and wide brim which almost hid the face; usually trimmed with ribbon bands and loops

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/georgian.htm

THINK MOVIE: Marie Antoinette

Empire 1790-1815Men's Fashion Breeches became longer and more

tightly fitted Trousers or Pantaloons for the street Coats were cutaway with long tails

and standing collars Waist coats were high waisted and

squared off at the bottom Hair wax and mutton chops were the

new hair fad Wellington style boot

Empire 1790-1815Women's Fashion The triumph of the “undressed”

look Followed the simple flowing lines

of the Greek silhouette Empire Waist

High waisted, natural look No corsets

Accessories Gloves Vinaigrette: small drawstring

handbag

THINK MOVIE: Emma

Romantic Era 1815-1840

Men's Fashion Peg-Top Trousers–Trousers

that were wide and pleated at the top and very narrow at the ankles. The name peg-top originally

applied to a boy’s cone-shaped spinning top.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/romantic.htm

Men's Fashion Sack Coat–A loose-fitting

coat ending at the finger tips and having high short lapels. It was used in sports and in commerce.

Great Coat–An overcoat usually made out of wool and not as fitted as a regular coat.

Frock Coat–A double-breasted coat having long skirts of equal length in front and back.

Romantic Era 1815-1840

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/romantic.htm

Romantic Era 1815-1840Men's Fashion Accessories Ascot–A scarf tied in a knot with

horizontal ends, then crossed diagonally. The whole usually held in place with a jeweled stickpin.

Bowler–A stiff felt hat with a low, round crown and narrow brim; the bowler, similar to a derby, has a slightly wider brim and roll at the sides.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/romantic.htm

Romantic Era 1815-1840Women's Fashion Beret Sleeves - cut from a

circle with an opening in the center for the arm and this was gathered and bound into a band. The outer circle was gathered and set into the armhole

Gigot Sleeves–A full sleeve with more fullness at the elbow than at the shoulder or wrist. Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume.

Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/romantic.htm

Romantic Era 1815-1840Women's Fashion Wider Skirt Hemlines:

Gored into panels from 1820-1828 to added width at hemline, but keep tight waist

Decoration of stuffed rouleau tubes, Italian quilting and flounces and frills were added to push out the skirt hem width in an architectural way.

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era – Fashion History. Retreived from: http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm#Romantic Era 1825-1835

Women's Fashion Pelerine Collars (1836):

covered wide shoulders and added modesty. The width of the lace pelerine

reached about 31 inches when at its widest fashion.

Romantic Era 1815-1840

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era – Fashion History. Retreived from: http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm#Romantic Era 1825-1835

Romantic Era 1815-1840Women's Fashion Hats: Large romantic wide

hats, ornately trimmed with feathers, loops of ribbons and bows complemented the wide

shoulder lines of the 1830s Bonnets were virtually

interchangeable with hats Coal scuttle bonnet styles with

deep crowns accommodated the high

Apollo knot: hair style of a high twist on top of the head.

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era – Fashion History. Retreived from: http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm#Romantic Era 1825-1835

Victorian Era – Crinoline1837 - 1860

Men’s Fashion Prince Albert Coat Another

name for the double-breasted frock coat with satin lapels, named after the consort of Queen Victoria who favored the style.

String Tie Basic ribbon, often black, tied in a bow with the ends hanging down.

Gaiters Covers that covered the shoe so they wouldn't get muddy.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/crinoline.htm

Victorian Era – Crinoline1837 - 1860

Men’s Fashion Dundrearies Long side burnes,

Lamb Chops, worn my Lord Dundreary on Our American Cousin, by Tom Taylor.

Stove-Pipe Hat A tall, cylindrical hat with very little brim; worn by men.

Pince Niz A style of eye glasses that pinched the nose.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/crinoline.htm

Victorian Era – CrinolineWomen's Fashion 1837 - 1860 Return to the look of demure

prim gentility Big hats leave and bonnets

return The Gigot sleeve collapses in for

a much narrower sleeve and dropped shoulder line.

Tight, pointed longer boned bodice to emphasize a small waistline

Pantalettes: Leg coverings of lace and ruffles that extended below the knees

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm

Victorian Era – CrinolineWomen's Fashion 1837-1860 Dolman: A three-quarter-length

outer wrap made of brocade, silk, or woolen fabric with sleeves cut in one with the body. .

Pagoda Sleeves A sleeve shaped like a funnel, tight above and gradually widening at the bottom, often finishing in several ruffles over a soft lawn under-sleeve.

Sleeves were off the shoulders for evening wear for upper class.

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm

Victorian Era – CrinolineWomen's Fashion 1837-1860 Bell shaped skirts become so

large they are more dome shaped. Held up by 6 layers of petticoats Supported by stiffer fabrics with

“Crin” woven in horsehair to make fabrics stiffer. Crinoline: any garment that used

this type of lining to make it stiff Crinoline cage: metal steel

frame cage that freed women of petticoats

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History 1837-1860. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/early_victorian_fashion.htm

Victorian Era – CrinolineThink Movies:Gangs of New YorkGone With the WindLittle Women

Four factors that begin to influence fashion1. The invention of the sewing machine2. Fashion becomes couture design led3. Synthetic dyes allow for intense colors4. Dome skirt started to have a flat front

and a dramatic leaning back.

Victorian 1865-1890

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/mid-late_victorian_fashion.htm

Victorian 1865-1890Men's Fashion Blazer—A lightweight sport

jacket. Norfolk Jacket—A jacket with

box pleats or straps of the same material passing over the belt and extending from shoulder to hem in front and back; usually worn for sport occasions.

Inverness—A full, sleeveless cape which fitted closely around the neck; from Inverness in Scotland.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/bustle.htm

Men's Fashion Knickerbockers—Full, knee-

length breeches gathered in at the knee

Four-in-hand Tie—A type of necktie originally used by coachmen that is tied in a slip knot.

Straw Boater—A man's hard straw hat coated with shellac from India that became popular for summer outings and sporting events in the 1870s

Victorian 1865-1890

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/bustle.htm

Victorian - BustleWomen’s Fashion Bustle—Whalebone or steel

strips placed in the top back of the petticoat or in a separate panier puff in order to hold out the elaborate draping at the back of the over skirt.

Bloomers—Loose underdrawers usually gathered at the knee.

Basque—A short, skirt-like termination of an upper garment (originally on the male doublet)

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/bustle.htm

Victorian - BustleWomen’s Fashion The Soft Bustle Fashion

Silhouette 1867-1875 Apron style tablier top layer

half skirt contrasting underskirts and

gown linings were all revealed as the over top skirt was divided or turned back.

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/mid-late_victorian_fashion.htm

Women’s Fashion From 1870, ball gowns always

had a train. by 1873 the train was seen in day

dress. By 1875 soft polonaise bustle

styles were becoming so extreme that the soft fullness began to drop down the back of the garment and form itself into a tiered, draped and frilled train

Victorian - Bustle

Women’s Fashion Victorian Silhouette 1878-

1901 Princess Line and the

Cuirasse Bodice soft polonaise style bustle styles

were replaced by Princess sheath garments without a waist seam with bodice and skirt cut in one.

Cuirasse bodice: corset like and dipped even deeper both front and back extending well down the hips creating the look of a body encased in armour.

Victorian - Bustle

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/mid-late_victorian_fashion.htm

Victorian - BustleWomen’s Fashion The New Hard Bustle of

1883 jutting out shelf like style of

bustle larger than ever as a hard shape

that gave women a silhouette like the hind legs of a horse

Minimal drapery in comparison to earlier bustles

Slimmer more fitted severely tailored princess bodice, with a much flatter front.

Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/mid-late_victorian_fashion.htm

Victorian - BustleThink Movies:Far and AwayTombstoneThe Phantom of the Opera

Edwardian Era 1890 -1914Men’s Fashion Chesterfield—A fitted

dress overcoat with hidden buttons and a velvet collar

Kickers—Full breeches gathered or pleated into knee bands and buckled at the knee

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/findesiecle.htm

Men’s Hats Panama Hat—A hand-woven hat of

fine straw from Ecuador and Colombia, South America.

For-and-Aft Cap—A cap having a visor front and back, often worn with an Inverness cape.

Derby—A stiff felt hat with a low, round crown and narrow brim; the bowler has a slightly wider brim and a roll at the sides.

Homberg—A carefully blocked, stiff felt hat with a medium tapering crown creased in the middle and a brim that was rolled up on the sides and finished in grosgrain ribbon

Edwardian Era 1890 -1914

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/findesiecle.htm

Edwardian Era 1890 -1914Women’s Fashion 1890-1910 Tailor Made—Mass-produced, ready-

to-wear clothing that had a tailored fit often wool or serge because of the tailoring quality.

Leg-o’-Mutton—A sleeve that was extremely wide at the top and tapered at the wrist.

Shirtwaist—A woman’s top detached from the skirt. At first the focal point was the shoulders then it moved to the front.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/findesiecle.htm

Edwardian Era 1890 -1914Women’s Fashion 1890-1910 Gibson Girl—More often

associated with the topknot hair style. Also a blouse with a single pleat which extended over each shoulder front and back, hiding the armseye of the shirtwaist. Image of 'The New Woman' who

was competitive, sporty and emancipated as well as beautiful.

Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from: http://www.cwu.edu/~robinsos/ppages/resources/Costume_History/findesiecle.htm

Edwardian Era 1890 -1914Women’s Fashion 1900 -1907 The S-Bend corset and pouter

pigeon effect The high collar, S bend corset,

trained skirt and lavish hat all had an effect on the posture of an Edwardian lady and it gave her a certain swaying grandeur.

Evening wear exceptionally low sweetheart,

square and round décolleté necklines allowed women to wear quantities of fine jewelry. No cleavage was visible as the bust was suppressed into a monobosom.

Thomas, P.W. (2008). La Belle Époque Edwardian Fashion History. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/la_belle_epoque_1890-1914_fashion.htm

Edwardian Era 1890 -1914Women’s Accessories Gainsborough Hat— velvet, beaver,

or straw hat having a low crown and a broad brim, trimmed with feathers.

Feathers Gloves Parasols Bags

Thomas, P.W. (2008). La Belle Époque Edwardian Fashion History. Retrieved from: http://www.fashion-era.com/la_belle_epoque_1890-1914_fashion.htm

Edwardian Era 1890 -1914

Think Movies:Anne of Green GablesSherlock Holmes