©2016-2020 joan morais 10 skin 101 it is important as a formulator and maker of skin care products...

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©2016-2020 Joan Morais 2

Professional Natural Skin Care Product Making Course by Joan Morais

Copyright 2016 - 2020 Joan Morais All rights reserved worldwide. This booklet is intended for the personal use of the reader. No part of this booklet may be reproduced or distributed in any printed or electronic format without written permission from the copyright holder. Revised 3.2020

Disclaimer: All content provided by Joan Morais Cosmetics School formerly known as Joan Morais Naturals is the result of research and experience by Joan Morais and team. Joan Morais has tried to be as precise as possible with the description of the ingredients and the recipes. Joan Morais does not make any claims regarding any of the ingredients, recipes or medical claims. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. Each individual is responsible to do their own additional research on the safety, storage and testing of ingredients and formulations, pre-market testing and follow the FDA cosmetic regulations or the cosmetic regulations in the country or region the product will be sold.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS Professional Natural Skin Care Product Making Course

Module 1 What is a Cosmetic? ..................................................................................................... 8 The Skin Care Market .................................................................................................. 8 What is Natural Skin Care? ........................................................................................... 8 Define Natural Skin Care ............................................................................................. 9 Skin 101 ................................................................................................................ 10 Skin Types ................................................................................................................. 11 Skin Biology .............................................................................................................. 13 Evaluating Skin Care Products ................................................................................... 14 Products for Natural Skin Care ................................................................................... 15 Creating a Synergy .................................................................................................... 20 Hydrotherapy ............................................................................................................ 21 How To Do A Facial ................................................................................................... 22 How To Do A Facial Steam ......................................................................................... 23

Raw Materials refer to Raw Materials manual

Module 2 Equipment, Supplies, Formulating, Preserving and Testing refer to Formulate1 and Formulate 2 Manuals and How To Preserve Manual

Module 3 About The Natural Skin Care Formulas ...................................................................... 24 Shea Butter Lotion ..................................................................................................... 25 CTFA Challenge Tested ............................................................................................. 25 Shea Butter Lotion Formula ....................................................................................... 26 Shea Butter Lotion Procedure ..................................................................................... 33 Moisturizing Mango and Bamboo Body Lotion Formula .............................................. 34 Moisturizing Mango and Bamboo Body Lotion Procedure ........................................... 37 Base Body Lotion Formula ......................................................................................... 38 Base Body Lotion Procedure ....................................................................................... 41 Base Moisturizer Formula .......................................................................................... 42 Base Moisturizer Procedure ....................................................................................... 45 Calm Skin Moisturizer Formula .................................................................................. 46 Calm Skin Moisturizer Procedure ............................................................................... 49 Bilberry Skin Brightening Moisturizer Formula ........................................................... 50 Bilberry Skin Brightening Moisturizer Procedure ........................................................ 53 Men’s Moisturizer with Perilla Plant Stem Cells Formula ............................................ 54 Men’s Moisturizer with Perilla Plant Stem Cells Procedure .......................................... 57 Regenerating and Firm Skin Moisturizer with MSM and DMAE Formula ...................... 58 Regenerating and Firm Skin Moisturizer with MSM and DMAE Procedure ................... 61 Renewing and Firming Peptide Moisturizer Formula .................................................. 62 Renewing and Firming Peptide Moisturizer Procedure ............................................... 65 Base Cream: Nourishing Cupuacu Cream Formula ..................................................... 66 Base Cream: Nourishing Cupuacu Cream Procedure .................................................. 69

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Moisturizing Camu Camu Formula ............................................................................. 70 Moisturizing Camu Camu Procedure .......................................................................... 73 Age-Defying Rejuvenating Facial Cream Formula ....................................................... 74 Age-Defying Rejuvenating Facial Cream Procedure .................................................... 77 Organic Camellia Facial Cream Formula ..................................................................... 78 Organic Camellia Facial Cream Procedure .................................................................. 81 Wild Orchid and Rose Moisturizer with Flower and Gem Essences Formula ................ 82 Wild Orchid and Rose Moisturizer with Flower and Gem Essences Procedure .............. 85 Chamomile and Eyebright Eye Cream Formula ........................................................... 86 Chamomile and Eyebright Eye Cream Procedure ........................................................ 89 Chamomile and Eyebright Eye Cream w/ GSB Formula ............................................... 90 Chamomile and Eyebright Eye Cream w/ GSB Procedure ............................................ 91 Revitalizing Eye Cream Formula ................................................................................. 92 Revitalizing Eye Cream Procedure .............................................................................. 95 Pink Lotus and Coconut Butter Cream Formula .......................................................... 96 Pink Lotus and Coconut Butter Cream Procedure ....................................................... 99 Base Body Butter: Nourishing Cupuacu Butter Formula ............................................ 100 Base Body Butter: Nourishing Cupuacu Butter Procedure ......................................... 103 Smooth and Silky Body Butter Formula .................................................................... 104 Smooth and Silky Body Butter Procedure .................................................................. 107

Module 4 Base Serum with Hyaluronic Acid Formula ............................................................... 108 Base Serum with Hyaluronic Acid Procedure ............................................................ 111 Instantly Soft and Smooth Hand and Foot Serum ..................................................... 112 Regenerating and Brightening Serum with Plant Collagen Formula .......................... 113 Regenerating and Brightening Serum with Plant Collagen Procedure ....................... 116 Deeply Hydrating Serum with Plant Ceramides Formula ........................................... 117 Deeply Hydrating Serum with Plant Ceramides Procedure ........................................ 120 Beautifying Oil Serum Formula ................................................................................ 121 Beautifying Oil Serum Procedure ............................................................................. 125

Module 5 Gel Facial Cleanser Formula ..................................................................................... 126 Gel Facial Cleanser Procedure .................................................................................. 129 Gel Facial Cleanser #2 Formula ................................................................................ 130 Gel Facial Cleanser #2 Procedure ............................................................................. 133 Base Gel Cleanser Formula ...................................................................................... 134 Base Gel Cleanser Procedure ................................................................................... 137 Skin Brightening Cleansing Cream with Fruit Enzymes Formula ............................... 138 Skin Brightening Cleansing Cream with Fruit Enzymes Procedure ............................ 141 Simple Cream Cleanser ........................................................................................... 142 3-Grain Cleanser and Exfoliant ................................................................................ 143 Gentle Lotus Exfoliant ............................................................................................. 144 Base Mask: Nourishing Fruit Masks ......................................................................... 145 Rotorua Mud Mask .................................................................................................. 146 Balancing Facial Toner .......................................................................................... 147 Moisture Mist .......................................................................................................... 148 Facial Steam Herbs .................................................................................................. 149

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Module 6 Base Lip Balm Formula ............................................................................................. 150 Base Lip Balm Procedure .......................................................................................... 153 Whipped Lip Butter Formula ..................................................................................... 154 Whipped Lip Butter Procedure .................................................................................. 155 Exfoliating Whipped Lip Butter Formula ................................................................... 156 Exfoliating Whipped Lip Butter Procedure ................................................................ 158 Base Lip Gloss Formula ............................................................................................ 159 Base Lip Gloss Procedure ......................................................................................... 162 Lip Plumper Formula ............................................................................................... 163 Lip Plumper Procedure ............................................................................................. 166 Nail Treatment Ointment Formula ............................................................................ 167 Nail Treatment Ointment Procedure ......................................................................... 168 Glowing Skin Balm Formula ..................................................................................... 169 Glowing Skin Balm Procedure .................................................................................. 170 Therapeutic Balm Formula ....................................................................................... 171 Therapeutic Balm Procedure .................................................................................... 172

Module 7 Coconut Crème Moisturizing Body Wash Formula .................................................... 173 Coconut Crème Moisturizing Body Wash Procedure .................................................. 175 Moisturizing Body Wash Formula ............................................................................. 176 Moisturizing Body Wash Procedure .......................................................................... 178 2-In-1 Body Wash and Hand Soap Formula ............................................................... 179 2-In-1 Body Wash and Hand Soap Procedure ............................................................ 181

Module 8 Solid Stick Deodorant Formula ................................................................................. 182 Solid Stick Deodorant Procedure .............................................................................. 185 Fresh Roll-On Deodorant Formula ............................................................................ 186 Fresh Roll-On Deodorant Procedure ......................................................................... 189 Liquid Spray Deodorant Formula .............................................................................. 190 Liquid Spray Deodorant Procedure ........................................................................... 192 Scented Silk Body Powder and Deodorant Formula ................................................... 193 Scented Silk Body Powder and Deodorant Procedure ................................................ 195

Module 9 Bath Salts ................................................................................................................ 196 French Lavender and Chamomile Bath Soak ............................................................. 197 Creamy Coconut Milk Bath ....................................................................................... 198 Herbal Bath Tea Soak .............................................................................................. 199 Smooth Skin Solid Body Scrub Formula .................................................................... 200 Smooth Skin Solid Body Scrub Procedure ................................................................. 201 Coconut Salt Scrub .................................................................................................. 202 Skin Brightening Sugar Scrub ................................................................................... 203 Strawberry Coconut Cream Sugar Scrub Formula ..................................................... 204 Strawberry Coconut Cream Sugar Scrub Procedure .................................................. 206 Radiant Skin Body Scrub Formula ............................................................................. 207 Radiant Skin Body Scrub Procedure .......................................................................... 209

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Bath Fizzies ............................................................................................................. 210

Pink Grapefruit Bath Fizzy ....................................................................................... 211 Silky Soft Skin Body Oil ............................................................................................ 212 Arnica Massage Oil .................................................................................................. 214 Base Massage Oil and Sensual Massage Oil ............................................................. 215

Module 10 Aromatherapy refer to Aromatherapy Essential Oils manual and Aromatherapy Wellness Kit manual Gem Essences ......................................................................................................... 216 Gem Essences for Skin Care .................................................................................... 216 How To Make Gem Essences .................................................................................... 217 Flower Essences ................................................................................................... 218 Flower Essences for Skin Care ................................................................................. 219 Aromatherapy Simple Room Spray ........................................................................... 219 Aromatherapy Body Mist ......................................................................................... 220

Module 11 Herbs refer to Raw Materials Manual section on herbs

Module 12 Scent Development and Natural Perfume ................................................................. 221 Natural Perfume ...................................................................................................... 222 Perfume Oil ............................................................................................................. 241 Solid Perfume .......................................................................................................... 244 Alcohol Perfume ...................................................................................................... 248 Scent Station ........................................................................................................... 251 Essential Oil Blends ................................................................................................. 253

Glossary .................................................................................................................. 260

Weight and Measurement Conversion Chart ............................................................ 261

About Joan Morais ................................................................................................... 262

Resources and Suppliers refer to the links on each module in the classroom.

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NOTES

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What is a Cosmetic? A cosmetic is a product applied to the body. The FDA defines the cosmetic as: “The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use, as "articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body...for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance" [FD&C Act, sec. 201(i)]. Among the products included in this definition are skin moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and facial makeup preparations, cleansing shampoos, permanent waves, hair colors, and deodorants, as well as any substance intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product.” (taken from the FDA website)

The Skin Care Market The Skin Care Market is an excellent market to be in and will continue to grow. There is a new generation and way of making cosmetics. It is no longer only in the large cosmetic houses. Since raw materials are now available to an individual on a smaller scale, smaller cosmetic producers and products are now entering the market.

Consumers are craving for more artisanal shops and products and a deeper connection with the producers of these products.

United States Skin and Body Care Market is 7 billion dollars! Worldwide Skin and Body Care Market is 75 billion dollars!

WHAT IS NATURAL SKIN CARE? There is no standard definition of natural skin care in the cosmetic industry. If you ask several individual’s they would have different answers.

My definition of natural skin care is: the ingredients used in natural skin care products are mainly derived from nature, sustainable and the processes for these ingredients cause no harm to humans, animals and the earth. The raw materials for natural skin care products nourish the skin and mimic the whole food industry with food grown sustainably by fair trade farmers in nutrient rich soil without pesticides.

I recommend you write down your definition of natural skin care. This definition will bring clarity in formulating and making products and your natural skin care business.

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How Do You Define Natural Skin Care?

My Mission Statement for Natural Skin Care Products

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SKIN 101 It is important as a formulator and maker of skin care products to understand about the skin.

Our skin is an intelligent regenerating organ. Skin is our largest organ and it knows how to take care of itself.

Skin is a protective barrier for our internal organs and internal body. It eliminates toxins from our body. Skin absorbs mostly everything we put on it.

The skin is constantly being renewed. The skin cells exfoliate and renew every 24 to 40 days. The new cells are exactly like the old cells and replace the old cells that are sloughed off.

When the skin is nurtured and supported, it will continually regenerate itself and look radiant, soft and supple. Our skin contains moisture, oil, nutrition and oxygen. Our skin knows how to take care of itself, if we support it and give it what it needs. Total health is including healthy skin.

In one square centimeter, skin contains: ♥Four yards of nerves ♥15 sebaceous glands ♥one yard of blood vessels ♥3,000 sensory cells at the ends of nerve fibers ♥3,000,000 cells ♥100 perspiration glands

Support your skin using plant-based natural skin care products and daily massage. Drink plenty of water to hydrate your skin, eat nutritious plant-based foods and exercise.

Love your body and your skin the way it is. Do not fall into the trap of perfect, wrinkle free skin like we see on television and magazines.

Sebum Sebum is a natural protective oily substance produced by the body. Sebum is crucial for skin barrier integrity. Sebum provides an antibacterial layer and is the first line of defense against germs and bacteria. Sebum holds moisture in the skin.

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SKIN TYPES Normal Skin Normal skin is balanced; the oil and moisture are evenly distributed. Normal skin is firm, vibrant, supple, blemish-free with even skin tone, color and texture and normal size pores. Normal skin tends to be free of lines and wrinkles. Few people have normal skin. Essential oils and nourishing ingredients help to maintain normal skin.

Dry Skin Dry skin does not produce enough oil. It usually feels tight, dry and looks tired and dull with fine lines. The pores are unseen to very small.

Dehydrated skin may be confused with dry skin. Dehydrated skin has oil but lacks in moisture and looks parched. The skin does not hold onto the moisture. Dry and dehydrated skin may be sensitive and unless cared for the skin tends to wrinkle prematurely. Essential oils and moisturizing ingredients can help balance dry skin and encourage oil production. Use essential oils that are balancing, moisture enhancing, regulating and toning.

Oily Skin Oily skin produces too much oil from over stimulated glands. The skin can be greasy with blemishes that may be infected, contain large and clogged pores with blackheads. Oily skin looks shiny. The skin’s texture is usually thick. Oily skin can become more severe if overly cleansed with harsh cleansers that remove its natural oils. This transmits a message to the glands to make more oil to protect the skin’s surface. Oily skin does not wrinkle as quickly as other skin types. Essential oils and astringent and toning ingredients can help with balancing the oil and reducing bacteria. Use essential oils that are balancing, anti-bacterial, toning and astringent.

Combination Skin Combination skin functions differently in various areas of the face. It tends to be dry around the mouth, the cheeks and the eyes and oily in the area of the forehead and the nose. Combination skin should be cared for as two separate skin types; dry and oily. Essential oils and balancing ingredients can be used to customize skin care products to address each area and bring balance to this skin type. Use essential oils that regulate, balance and suggested for dry and oily skin.

Sensitive Skin Sensitive skin reacts to allergens, detergents, preservatives, chemical irritants, specific ingredients, the sun, stress, fluctuation in hormones, air conditioning and heating. It may become extremely sensitized that even the slightest stimuli will cause a reaction. In my classes, I see an increase in the number of people that have sensitive skin. Essential oils and gentle ingredients can help to soothe and calm the skin. Use essential oils that are relaxing, soothing and calming.

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Mature Skin also called Aging Skin Mature skin may show sun damage and fine lines and wrinkles starting to form on the face. The skin may appear to lack vibrancy and moisture and may show signs of pigmentation (discoloration, brown spots) and sagging. The skin may show broken capillaries also called couperose skin. Coupersose skin has tiny dilated capillaries around the nose, cheeks and is usually dry, thin and delicate and is aggravated with extreme temperatures. Essential oils and rejuvenating ingredients can help to reduce and slow down the aging of the skin. Use essential oils with properties that are rejuvenating, moisture enhancing, wrinkle reducing, anti-inflammatory and promote elasticity.

Acne Acne can happen at any age and with any skin type. Acne may appear at times when the hormones are fluctuating the most; puberty, pregnancy, menstruation, ovulation or peri-menopause. The skin usually has excess oil and this may cause pores to become clogged. The overabundance of oil attracts bacteria that can cause infection and inflammation. Acne can also be related to other events happening in the body. Essential oils and antiseptic and balancing ingredients can help to balance the excess oil, prevent infection, balance hormones and reduce stress. Use essential oils that are soothing, antiseptic, anti-bacterial, hormone balancing and anti-inflammatory.

Eczema and Psoriasis Eczema and psoriasis are conditions that need to be addressed with an evaluation by a health care professional of the immune system, food allergies, family history of asthma, eczema and psoriasis. Eczema and psoriasis are usually triggered by stress. Essential oils and soothing ingredients can help to soothe the itching, weeping and dryness of the skin and reduction of stress. Use essential oils that are relaxing, soothing, calming and anti-inflammatory.

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SKIN BIOLOGY Skin biology is the structure and the function of the skin.

Structure of the Skin The skin consists of two layers, the dermis and epidermis. The dermis is the inner layer of skin and the epidermis is the outer layer of skin.

Dermis The dermis is the inner layer of skin. The dermis is the living part of the skin and the backbone and the support for the epidermis. The dermis contains collagen, hair follicles, blood vessels and sweat glands. Damage at the dermis level causes scarring.

Epidermis The epidermis is the outer layer of skin. The epidermis is living and regenerates from the bottom up within about 4 weeks.

Stratum Corneum The stratum corneum is the top layer of the epidermis and it is the non-living part of the skin. The stratum corneum is where water loss occurs.

Skin Is the Largest Organ The skin is the largest organ of the body.

Brick and Mortar - Lipids and Skin Barrier The skin is similar to bricks and mortar used to build a wall. The bricks are the proteins and the mortar are the lipids that hold the proteins together. Lipids contain ceramides, cholesterol and triglycerides. This comprises the skin barrier. The lipids and skin barrier are crucial to wellness, supple skin, plump skin, radiant skin, elastic skin and delaying wrinkles. The skin barrier is compromised and breaks down when the skin is overly cleansed and cleansed with harsh surfactants. The skin becomes rough and dry.

Cosmetic Products Cosmetics address the stratum corneum.

Moisturization Moisturization of the skin is key for vibrant and beautiful skin. It is important to lock-in the moisture in the skin to slow aging of the skin.

Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) Transepidermal water loss measures the water loss from the skin. A skin care product is applied to the skin and then measured to see how much water loss occurs.

Occlusive An occlusive helps to reduce water loss. Plant oils and plant waxes are occlusive.

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Skin Elasticity The tone and firmness of the skin is referred to as skin elasticity.

Eye Skin The skin around the eyes is delicate, thin and contains no oil glands. It is the first area that shows aging. Vitamins and peptides help to minimize fine lines and firm the skin. Caffeine, green tea and soothing herbs and fruits, chamomile, eyebright and cucumber help to reduce puffiness and dark circles.

EVALUATING SKIN CARE PRODUCTS Here are just a few ways to evaluate a skin care product. Skin Feel: What is the feel on the skin? This is one of the most important characteristics. Glide on Skin: How does it feel when applying the product to the skin? How long for skin to absorb: Does the product sit on top of the skin or absorb quickly into the skin? Sticky: Is the product sticky? Tacky: Is the product tacky? Soaping: Does the product leave a white film on the skin? Scent: Does the product have a pleasant scent?

LATHER In the cosmetic industry foam and lather are the same thing. In the industry, the cosmetic formulator tries to obtain an abundance of lather. Most consumers think the more lather a body wash or hand soap has the more cleansing it is. This is not true. The more lather is usually the result of harsh surfactants in the product. This can disrupt the skin barrier and result in dry and itchy skin. Liquid soaps only need a very small amount of lather. This is better for the skin and body and the environment.

FLASH FOAM Flash foam is the term used for the immediate foam the product produces as soon as it is applied to the skin. Most natural body wash and natural hand soap may need a little more water added to the skin soon after the product is applied to the skin to assist for better foam.

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PRODUCTS FOR NATURAL SKIN CARE Water-Based Products contain water and need an effective broad-spectrum preservative. Anhydrous Products contain no water-based ingredients and generally do not need a preservative.

EMULSIONS An emulsion is a homogenous mixture (colloid) where the particles disperse and do not separate and settle out of the mixture. The emulsion contains ingredients that are incompatible and insoluble in each other when combined together, like oil and water. In order to keep the oil and water together they need an emulsifier.

LOTIONS AND CREAMS Lotions and creams are emulsions and moisturizers. They moisturize, hydrate and nourish the skin by assisting to keep moisture locked into the skin. They are made with oil and water.

Generally, lotions have a lower content of oils and waxes and are lighter in consistency. Creams have a higher content of oils and waxes and are thicker and richer than lotions.

ANHYDROUS BODY BUTTER Anhydrous body butters are very rich and made with butters and oils and contain no water ingredients. They do not need a preservative and have a shelf life of two to three years depending on the shelf life of the oils and butters and antioxidants in the formulation.

Body butters moisturize, soften, protect and repair the skin, as they are rich in nutrients. Body butters are great for dry and cracked skin; feet, hands, knees, elbows and dry spots on the skin. They are an excellent all over moisturizer when applied to moist skin.

WHIPPED BODY BUTTER Whipped butters melt very easily if they are in the heat. About 50% of the butter is air and the product will melt to half the size that originally filled the container. Most butters will melt in the summer months if they are shipped. Adding candelilla wax will help to firm the body butter. Whipped body butters weigh less but take more space. Whipped body butter will fill a 2-ounce container but only weigh 1 ounce.

The longer you whip butters, the fluffier and lighter they become. The consistency of butters also has to do with the mixer. A heavy-duty stand mixer produces a much lighter butter in a quicker amount of time. An electric hand mixer works fine too. Mixers with a whip attachment work well.

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SERUMS Serums feed, nourish and protect the skin. Serums come in oil serums, gel serums or light lotion serums. Serums are applied before the moisturizer, the lotion or cream. A serum can also be used by itself. Gel serums are wonderful for oily skin.

FACIAL CLEANSERS Facial cleansers should gently lift dirt and make-up without stripping the skin of its precious sebum. Cleansing is one of the most important steps for vibrant skin. Leaving make-up on overnight, ages the skin. Strong surfactants in cleansers can strip the natural barrier of the skin. Facial cleansers should cleanse and nurture the skin.

FACIAL EXFOLIATORS A facial exfoliator should always be gentle and never harsh. Harsh scrubbing will tear and damage the skin. Facial exfoliators should gently polish, cleanse, nourish and exfoliate the top layer of dead skin cells leaving the skin smooth and silky. Exfoliators can be mechanical or chemical. Mechanical exfoliant contains grains, jojoba beads, nut meals that gently scrub and remove the dead skin cells and a chemical exfoliant contains alpha hydroxy acids such as acidic fruits that dissolve the dead skin cells.

FACIAL MASKS Facial masks pull toxins and impurities from the skin, nourish the skin, remove dead layers of skin and help to improve circulation. They smooth, tighten, brighten and tone the skin. Facial masks produce an immediate skin glow.

FACIAL TONER/MISTS Facial toners and mists soothe, hydrate, remove oily residue, tighten, refresh and moisturize the skin.

FACIAL STEAM HERBS A facial steam brightens the skin and adds a radiant glow to the skin. The steam helps to open pores while releasing toxins. The steam also carries the nourishing properties of the herbs into the skin. Facial steams are excellent for congested, oily and normal skin. For acne, sensitive skin and broken capillaries, use facial steams with care as they may aggravate the skin. Try using warm water for the steam.

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LIP BALMS, GLOSS AND BUTTERS Lip skin dries out easily from environmental conditions. Lip products help to retain moisture in the lips and keep the skin soft and supple.

BODY BALMS Balms help to soothe, calm and promote moisturization and cell regeneration and speed the time for healing.

BODY WASH AND HAND SOAP Liquid body wash is a top selling product for both women and men. Body wash is known as a body cleansing liquid and can also be called shower gel. They were developed in the mid 1990’s. Body wash can be made with surfactants derived from nature or with liquid soap made from saponified oils and potassium hydroxide.

PRODUCTION METHODS FOR BODY WASH Cold Processing Cold processing is the most ideal way to manufacture body wash. No heating is involved. All the ingredients are mixed at room temperature. Cold processing keeps the production cost down.

Hot Processing Hot processing is required for surfactants needing to be heated in order to liquefy and blend them. Check with the supplier if the surfactant requires heating.

DEODORANT Natural deodorant should be nourishing and beneficial to the skin and control odor.

Deodorizing Essential Oils Essential oils help to deodorize, kill bacteria, regulate the sweat glands and reduce moisture. These are some of the best deodorizing essential oils: chamomile, Roman chamomile, German coriander cypress eucalyptus geranium, rose lavender lemongrass litsea cubeba patchouli petitgrain pine sage

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BODY POWDER Body powder helps the skin to feel silky, soft and fresh. Body powder absorbs extra body moisture and is a natural deodorizer. Apply powder to the body after a bath, shower and on hot days. Sprinkle powder on sheets before sleeping, especially on hot nights or if you sweat a lot as it absorbs body moisture and your bed smells wonderful. Apply powder to hair to cut down on oiliness. Try sprinkling powder in the dryer before drying clothes. Essential oils can be added to powder for an anti-fungal foot powder.

SALT SCRUBS Salt scrubs are great to use to brighten your skin, invigorate the body, help with cellulite, protect and nourish the skin.

Carrier/Fixed Oils in Scrubs Use 5 tablespoons oil per 2 cups bath salts.

Firm Butters in Scrubs: Cocoa Butter, Kokum Butter Use up to 1 tablespoon firm butter per 1 cup salt or sugar. Melt and stir butter into salt or sugar. In bath salt or plant milk bath, grate butters and mix into salt or powdered plant milk.

Shea Butter in Scrubs Use up to 1 tablespoon shea butter per 1 cup salt or sugar. Melt shea butter and stir into salt or sugar.

Coconut Oil in Scrubs Use up to 1 tablespoon coconut oil per 1 cup salt. Melt and stir coconut oil into salt or sugar.

SUGAR SCRUBS Sugar scrubs gently exfoliate and rejuvenate skin and leave the skin feeling soft and moisturized. Salt scrubs can cause irritation especially after shaving or on an open cut. Sugar is a natural preservative, antiseptic and moisturizer. White sugar is not vegan unless stated on the packaging. White sugar is processed through animal bone char. Organic sugar is vegan.

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BATH SOAKS Sea Salt Soaks Herbal Soaks Plant Milk Soaks

PLANT MILK BATHS Plant milks are natural emollients (skin softeners) and moisturizers rich in minerals and vitamins. Milk baths soothe and exfoliate the skin and stimulate new cell growth.

Fresh plant milk can be added directly to the bath water. Try hemp milk, almond milk, coconut milk, oat milk, macadamia milk or soy milk.

BODY OIL Body oils are an excellent product for the skin. Nowadays more people are using body oils. In many cultures this is how they have kept their skin soft, supple and wrinkle free. Body oils are excellent for those with sensitivities to ingredients. Body oil can also be used as massage oil.

CARRIER/FIXED PLANT OILS FOR MASSAGE OIL Massage oil needs to have a long slip and smooth glide on the skin for the massage strokes. Here are some of the common oils used in massage oils.

Almond Oil (sweet) Apricot Kernel Oil Fractionated Coconut Oil MCT Coconut Oil Grapeseed Oil Jojoba Oil Safflower Oil Sunflower Oil

Basic Massage Oil Recipe 1-ounce oil 6-12 drops essential oil

Aphrodisiac essential oils bergamot, black pepper, clary sage, ginger, jasmine, neroli, palmarosa, patchouli, petitgrain, rose, sandalwood, vetiver and ylang ylang

Aphrodisiac herb Damiana Turnera diffusa, an herb from Mexico. Infuse dried damiana into fixed plant oil.

Healing Massage Massage has been used for centuries for healing. Touch heals. You don’t need formal massage training to give a loved one, a baby, child or partner a massage. Warm the massage oil in your hand before applying it to the skin.

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CREATING A SYNERGY IN PRODUCTS I formulate with the goal of synergy in the formulation. This is science and art. Understanding the ingredients that are compatible and the ingredients that are incompatible. I take it one step further. I want to know what ingredients create a synergy, are better together and produce a greater effect than used singularly. This is where the art and creativity of the formulator is at play. It is stepping out of the box, trying ingredients together and observing their effect together. This is how I view ingredients and my formulations.

Adding essential oils, hydrosols and flower essences into skin care products creates a synergy in the formulation.

The addition of essential oils, hydrosols, flower essences and gem essences can be used to uplift a mood, boost immunity and promote balance and peacefulness.

When developing a skin care product, I consider a plant or plants that benefit the skin and that I want to use in the formulation. I think about all the components and products of the plant; the herb, hydrosol, essential oil and the flower essence. From that plant I incorporate some of these or all of these into your formulation.

How I compare a whole plant to the human body:

Herb: Human Body Essential Oil: Blood in the body Hydrosol: Water/Fluids in the body Flower Essence: Spirit/Essence of the Person

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HYDROTHERAPY: HEALING WITH WATER Bath temperature makes a difference on the effect on the body. Hydrotherapy is using water, water temperature, salts, herbs, essential oils, fixed plant oils, plant milks for healing ailments in the body. For the best results, soak in a bath for 20-30-minutes.

33°C/92°F - 36°C/97°F: lukewarm bath for rejuvenation, inflammation, poison oak and rashes

36°C/97°F - °38C/101°F: normal bath for relaxation

37°C/99°F - 42°C/108°F degrees: hot bath for increasing circulation, removing toxins from the body and relieving pain and insomnia

A bath is one of the best ways to relax, restore and rejuvenate the body. When you soak in a bath, the pores in the skin open and like a sponge, soak in the healing properties of the herbs and ingredients you have put in the water. High quality, natural and organic ingredients should be used. Skin is a major and the largest organ; it absorbs and eliminates. Herbs, salts, plant milks, essential oils and fixed plant oils help to nourish, moisturize and soften the skin. Baths also pull out toxins from the body.

A warm bath relaxes the body and helps to invoke a peaceful night’s sleep. A bath can also be invigorating by using a cooler water temperature and invigorating herbs and essential oils. A footbath is the next best thing to a bath. Add flowers to the water for a touch of beauty. Bath temperature should be around 38°C /100°F - 39°C/102°F, 2-4 degrees above your body temperature.

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HOW TO DO A FACIAL The purpose of a facial is to deep-cleanse, promote circulation, smooth and moisturize the skin. A facial includes cleansing, exfoliation, facial steam, mask, toner and moisturizer.

Care for your face for radiant skin

1. Cleanse Cleanse one to two times daily to remove make-up and debris. Use a gentle cleanser.

2. Exfoliate

Gently exfoliate the skin one to two times a week.

3. Herbal Steam Do an herbal steam once a week or once a month.

4. Mask

Apply a mask once a week.

5. Toner/Mist Apply toner or mist daily.

6. Moisturize

Apply moisturizer twice a day; after cleansing in the morning and evening.

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HOW TO DO A FACIAL STEAM 1. Heat up 6 cups of water (best to use purified or distilled water).

2. Add a handful of fresh herbs or 3 tablespoons of dried herbs to a glass bowl and pour very hot water (almost boiling) over the herbs.

3. Let the herbs steep; cover the bowl with a plate to keep the steam and properties of the herbs in the water for about 5 minutes. Remove the plate.

4. Sit comfortably in front of the bowl and drape a scarf or bath towel over your head and the bowl creating a tent. Be careful with the hot water. Hold your face 8-10 inches above the water.

5. Keep your eyes closed, relax and breathe in and out slowly. If it gets too hot under the tent, open the sides of the scarf or towel. Steam your face for about 10 minutes.

For a more therapeutic effect, make a stronger tea on the stove with the herbs by adding the herbs to a pot of water, bring the water to almost a boil and cover the pot and steep the herbs for 15 minutes. Pour the tea into the glass bowl and do a facial steam.

FACIAL STEAM HERBS FOR SKIN TYPE Normal to dry skin chamomile, horsetail, lavender, rose petals, sage

Oily skin lavender, orange peel, rosemary, sage

Acne calendula, chamomile, elder flower, lavender, lemon balm, thyme, yarrow

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ABOUT THE NATURAL SKIN CARE FORMULAS The formulas in this book are vegan and cruelty-free. The formulas do not contain ingredients derived from animals.

Abbreviations for Suppliers Abbreviations for suppliers are provided next to the ingredient name in the formula. These are included to help you source the ingredient and save you some time searching for it. These are middle suppliers that ingredients can be ordered in smaller quantities. If you order in large quantities, it is best to go through the main supplier. There are other suppliers that carry the ingredient so definitely search other suppliers. The suppliers listed may at any time discontinue carrying that ingredient.

Purpose The purpose of the ingredient in the formula is listed next to the ingredient.

Testing pH pH strips work well as long as they are good quality. Dip the pH strip into the product and gently wipe off any excess with a paper towel. Compare the color of the strip to the box they came in and it will tell you the approximate pH.

pH Meter A pH meter is more expensive and the most reliable and accurate way to measure pH. The meter gives an exact reading of the pH.

Adjusting pH Lowering pH Citric acid and lactic acid are used to reduce pH. Citric acid comes from the peel of citrus fruits and is used in many fruit juices and food products. A small amount is usually all that is needed. Dissolve it into water. Generally, 0.1%-1%

Raising pH Sodium citrate and salt (sodium chloride) and baking soda are used to raise pH, start with small amounts. Sodium citrate is the salt of citric acid. Dissolve into water. Generally, 0.1%-1%

Testing Water-Based Formulations Testing water-based formulations is essential to make sure they are not contaminated with bacteria, yeast and mold. There are several ways to test, from a simple DIY kit to lab testing. Lab testing is the most reliable.

Making Lotion and Cream (Emulsions) Refer to Shea Butter Lotion Formula and Procedure for detailed information.

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SHEA BUTTER LOTION

ABOUT THE SHEA BUTTER LOTION FORMULATION This moisturizing body lotion softens and protects the skin. It can be used for the face and body.

LOTON pH: pH 5

CTFA CHALLENGE TESTED This lotion formula passed the 2-month CTFA challenge test and has a 2-3-year shelf life depending on the container used. Refer to the testing of lotions and creams and GMP.

INGREDIENTS LISTING FOR SHEA BODY LOTION Water (Aqua), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate, Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Organic Camellia sinensis (Green Tea) Extract, Organic Aphanizomenon flos aquae (Blue Green Algae) Extract, Organic Urtica dioica (Nettle) Extract, Organic Stellaria media (Chickweed) Extract, Organic Ulmus rubra (Slippery Elm) Extract, Organic Silybum marianum (Milk Thistle) Extract, Organic Althaea officinalis (Marshmallow Root) Extract, and Organic Avena sativa (Oatstraw) Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit, Stearic Acid, Glycerin, Essential Oils (insert essential oil names here), Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Citrate, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Herbal Extract INCI Aqua, Organic Alcohol, Organic Camellia sinensis (Green Tea) Extract, Organic Aphanizomenon flos aquae (Blue Green Algae) Extract, Organic Urtica dioica (Nettle) Extract, Organic Stellaria media (Chickweed) Extract, Organic Ulmus rubra (Slippery Elm) Extract, Organic Silybum marianum (Milk Thistle) Extract, Organic Althaea officinalis (Marshmallow Root) Extract, and Organic Avena sativa (Oatstraw) Extract

Important Update!

The supplier, Essential Wholesale, discontinued all alcohol extracts beginning of

2019. The herbal extract formula was: 63.4% water, 34.1% 190-proof alcohol

and 2.5% herbs. To replace this extract, use a similar alcohol extract or alcohol. Replace any Essential Wholesale alcohol extract in this manner. Look in the

course classroom for updates.

Essential Oil Blend Ingredients

Uplifting Blend: bergamot, sweet orange, lemon and ylang ylang

Relaxing Blend: lavender, lemon, mandarin, rosewood, orange

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SHEA BUTTER LOTION

Batch Size: 100 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Water Phase A

1. Distilled or Deionized Water

Aqua 69.3 grams

69.3% Diluent

2. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 0.7 gram 0.7% pH Adjuster ITDF, LC

3. GSB, Geogard Ultra, Microgard, NeoDefend

Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate

1.3 grams 1.3% Preservative ITDF, LC, TH, MC, FSS

4. Glycerin Glycerin 2 grams 2% Humectant Most Suppliers

Oil Phase B 5. Sunflower Oil Helianthus

Annuus Seed Oil

6 grams 6% Emollient Most Suppliers

6. Jojoba Oil Simmondsia chinensis Seed Oil


7. Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii Fruit


8. Olivem 1000 Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate

4.5 grams 4.5% Emulsifier ITDF, LC, TH, MC, FSS

9. Stearic Acid Stearic Acid 3 grams 3% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH, MC

Cool Down Phase C

10. Herbal Blend Extract Organic

4 grams 4% Properties of Botanical

See Important Update

11. Rosemary CO2 Organic

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

0.2 gram 0.2% Antioxidant EW, MRH, ITDF, TH

12. Essential Oil Blend: Uplifting or Relaxing

2 ml (up to 20 drops)

2% Aromatherapy EW

Total 100 grams

100%

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SHEA BUTTER LOTION Batch Size: 500 Grams



Aqua 346.5 grams 69.3% Diluent

2. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 3.5 grams 0.7% pH Adjuster ITDF, LC






Annuus Seed Oil









Cool Down Phase C

10. Herbal Blend Extract



11. Rosemary CO2 Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

1 gram 0.2% Antioxidant EW, MRH, ITDF, TH


10 ml (up to 1 teaspoon)

2% Aromatherapy EW

Total 500 grams 100%

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SHEA BUTTER LOTION Batch Size: 1500 Grams



Aqua 1039.5 grams

69.3% Diluent







Annuus Seed Oil









Cool Down Phase C





3 grams 0.2% Antioxidant EW, MRH, ITDF, TH


30 ml (up to 3 teaspoons)

2% Aromatherapy EW


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SHEA BUTTER LOTION Batch Size: 10 Ounces

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Water Phase A 1. Distilled or Deionized Water

Aqua 6.93 ounces 69.3% Diluent

2. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 0.07 ounce 0.7% pH Adjuster ITDF, LC



0.13 ounce 1.3% Preservative ITDF, LC, TH, MC, FSS

4. Glycerin Glycerin 0.2 ounce 2% Humectant Most Suppliers


Annuus Seed Oil

0.6 ounce 6% Emollient Most Suppliers






0.45 ounce 4.5% Emulsifier ITDF, LC, TH, MC, FSS

9. Stearic Acid Stearic Acid 0.3 ounce 3% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH, MC

Cool Down Phase C


0.4 ounce 4% Properties of Botanical



0.02 ounce 0.2% Antioxidant EW, MRH, ITDF, TH


0.2 ounce (up to 1¼ teaspoon)

2% Aromatherapy EW

Total 10 ounces 100%

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SHEA BUTTER LOTION Batch Size: 60 Ounces




2. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 0.42 ounce 0.7% pH Adjuster ITDF, LC




4. Glycerin Glycerin 1.2 ounces 2% Humectant Most Suppliers


Annuus Seed Oil

3.6 ounces 6% Emollient Most Suppliers






2.7 ounces 4.5% Emulsifier ITDF, LC, TH, MC, FSS

9. Stearic Acid Stearic Acid 1.8 ounces 3% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH, MC

Cool Down Phase C

10. Herbal Blend Extract Organic

2.4 ounces 4% Properties of Botanical





1.2 fl. ounces (up to 7 ¼ teaspoons)

2% Aromatherapy EW


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PROCEDURE: SHEA BUTTER LOTION Batch Size: 100 Grams with mini equipment

vessel (double boiler, stainless steel pot or glass beaker)

1. Pre-measure and weigh all ingredients into separate containers. 2. Bring distilled water to a boil.

Combine and Heat Water Phase A 1. Weigh hot distilled water into vessel 2. Add sodium citrate to hot water and stir 3. Add gluconolactone (and) sodium to hot water and stir 4. Add glycerin to hot water and stir 5. Heat to 80°C/175°F

Combine and Heat Oil Phase B 1. Add sunflower oil, jojoba oil, shea butter, Olivem 1000 and stearic acid into vessel, stir 2. Heat to 80°C/175°F

Add Oil Phase B into Water Phase A 1. Using a mini whisk, frother wand, spoon, create a vortex in the water phase 2. Quickly pour the oil phase into the water phase 3. Keep the hand blender/mixer below the surface of the lotion (don’t introduce air) 4. Mix on high speed for a few minutes and then reduce speed and mix for 5 minutes creating a stable emulsion. Reduce speed and mix until cool down phase. The emulsion is stable when the larger particles are broken up into smaller particles.

Cool Down Phase 43°C/110°F - 49°C/120°F (see note) 1. Add rosemary antioxidant CO2, herbal alcohol extract and essential oils mixing well after each addition.

Note: Cool down temperature can vary depending on the containers and the filling system. If hand pouring and using bottle containers, add cool down ingredients at 49°C/120°F, (the lotion needs to be poured into the container before it thickens) Ideally essential oils should be added at 38°C/100°F-43°C/110°F Testing pH: Test the pH and adjust to the range of pH 5.0-5.5 Batch Testing: test for bacteria, yeast and mold

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PROCEDURE: SHEA BUTTER LOTION with hand blender/stick blender

vessel (double boiler, stainless steel pot or glass beaker) 1. Pre-measure and weigh all ingredients into separate containers. 2. Bring distilled water to a boil.

Combine and Heat Water Phase A 1. Weigh hot distilled water into vessel 2, Add sodium citrate to hot water and stir 3. Add gluconolactone (and) sodium to hot water and stir 4. Add glycerin to hot water and stir

5. Heat to 80°C/175°F


Add Oil Phase B into Water Phase A

1. Using a hand immersion blender, stick blender, create a vortex in the water phase 2. Quickly pour the oil phase into the water phase 3. Keep the hand blender below the surface of the lotion (don’t introduce air). 4. Mix on high speed for a few minutes and then reduce speed and mix for 5 minutes

creating a stable emulsion. Reduce speed and mix until cool down phase. The emulsion is stable when the larger particles are broken up into smaller particles.


Note: Cool down temperature can vary depending on the containers and the filling system. If hand pouring and using bottle containers, add cool down ingredients at 49°C/120°F, (the lotion needs to be poured into the container before it thickens) Ideally essential oils should be added at 38°C/100°F-43°C/110°F Testing pH: Test the pH and adjust to the range of pH 5.0-5.5 Batch Testing: test for bacteria, yeast and mo

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PROCEDURE: SHEA BUTTER LOTION with stand kitchen mixer/lab mixer

vessel (double boiler, stainless steel pot or glass beaker) 1. Pre-measure and weigh all ingredients into separate containers.

2. Bring distilled water to a boil.

Combine and Heat Water Phase A 1. Weigh hot distilled water into vessel 2, Add sodium citrate to hot water and stir 3. Add gluconolactone (and) sodium to hot water and stir 4. Add glycerin to hot water and stir

5. Heat to 80°C/175°F


Add Oil Phase B into Water Phase A 1. Pour water phase into container and create a vortex in the water phase. Turn on low speed (stir speed). 2. Quickly pour the oil phase into the water phase. 3. Increase to high speed for a few minutes and then reduce speed and mix for 5 minutes creating a stable and smooth emulsion and reduce speed and slowly mix until cool down phase. The emulsion is more stable when the larger particles are broken up into smaller particles.


Note: Cool down temperature can vary depending on the containers and the filling system. If hand pouring and using bottle containers, add cool down ingredients at 49°C/120°F, (the lotion needs to be poured into the container before it thickens) Ideally essential oils should be added at 38°C/100°F-43°C/110°F

Test pH and adjust pH to 5.0-5.5 and test for bacteria, yeast and mold

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MOISTURIZING MANGO AND BAMBOO BODY LOTION Batch Size: 100 Grams



2. Glycerin Glycerin 2 grams 2% Humectant Most suppliers


Annuus Seed Oil

6 grams 6% Emollient Most suppliers

4. Sweet Almond Oil Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil


5. EcoMulse or NatraMulse RitaMulseSCG

Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

7 grams 7% Emulsifier ITDF, LC, TH, FSS

6. Cetyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol 2 grams 2% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH

Cool Down Phase C 7. Bamboo Extract Glycerin &

Water & Bambusa Vulgaris Extract

2 grams 2% Skin Softening Soothing Humectant

FSS

8. Mango Extract Glycerin & Mangifera Indica (Mango) Flower Extract

1 gram 1% Emollient Humectant

FSS


0.1 gram 0.1% (1 drop)

Antioxidant EW, MRH, ITDF, TH

10. Leucidal Liquid SF

Lactobacillus Ferment

4 grams 4% Preservative FSS, LC, TH

11. Essential Oils 2 ml (20 drops)

2% Aromatherapy Essential Oil Supplier

Totals 100 grams 100%

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MOISTURIZING MANGO AND BAMBOO BODY LOTION Batch Size: 500 Grams


Aqua 344.5 grams

68.9% Diluent



Annuus Seed Oil







6. Cetyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol

10 grams 2% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH


Water & Bambusa Vulgaris Extract

10 grams 2% Skin Softening Soothing Humectant

FSS


5 grams 1% Emollient Humectant

FSS


0.5 gram 0.1%

Antioxidant EW, MRH, ITDF, TH




11. Essential Oils 10 ml 2% Aromatherapy Essential Oil Supplier


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MOISTURIZING MANGO AND BAMBOO BODY LOTION Batch Size: 60 Ounces



2. Glycerin Glycerin 1.2 ounces 2% Moisturizer Humectant

Most suppliers


Annuus Seed Oil

3.6 ounces 6% Emollient Most suppliers


3 ounces 5% Emollient Most suppliers



4.2 ounces 7% Emulsifier ITDF, LC, TH, FSS

6. Cetyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol 1.2 ounces 2% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH


Mangifera Indica (Mango) Flower Extract

1.2 ounces 2% Skin Softening Soothing Humectant

FSS


0.6 ounce 1% Emollient Humectant

FSS





2.4 ounces 4% Preservative FSS, LC, TH

11. Essential Oils 1.2 fluid ounces (600 drops or 6 tsp)

2% Aromatherapy Essential Oil Supplier

Totals 60 ounces 100%

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PROCEDURE: MOISTURIZING MANGO AND BAMBOO BODY LOTION

Weigh all ingredients

Water Phase A 1. Heat distilled water in a kettle and bring to a boil. Weigh out hot distilled water into vessel 2. Add glycerin 3. Heat to 80°C/175°F

Oil Phase B 1. Combine oil phase ingredients into vessel 2. Heat oil phase to 80°C/175°F

Add Oil Phase B into Water Phase A 1. Create a vortex in the water phase 2. Pour oil phase into water phase 3. Mix on high speed for a few minutes and then reduce speed and mix for 5 minutes and mix on low until emulsion is smooth and cool

Cool Down Phase 43°C/110°F - 49°C/120°F 1. Add cool down phase ingredients and mix well

Testing pH: Test the pH and adjust to the range of pH 5.0-5.5 Batch Testing: test for bacteria, yeast and mold

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BASE BODY LOTION Batch Size: 100 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. Distilled or Deionized Water

Aqua 70.1grams

70.1% Diluent

2. Xanthan Gum (soft)

Xanthan Gum 0.3 grams 0.3% Thickener LC





5. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 1.3 gram 1.3% pH Adjustor ITDF, LC

Phase B 6. Avocado Oil Persea

Gratissima Oil 10 grams 10% Emollient Most

suppliers 7. Coconut Oil Cocos Nucifera

Oil 5 grams 5% Emollient Most

suppliers 8. Montanov™ 68 or SugarMulse Vegetal

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside

6 grams 6% Emulsifier LC, TH, A, FSS

9. Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol

2 grams 2% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH, MC

Totals 100 grams

100%

Essential Oil Blend Suggestion Rose Geranium and Ylang Ylang

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BASE BODY LOTION Batch Size: 500 Grams


Aqua 350.5 grams

70.1% Diluent


Xanthan Gum 1.5 gram 0.3% Thickener LC





5. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 6.5 grams 1.3% pH Adjustor ITDF, LC


Gratissima Oil 50 grams 10% Emollient Most








Totals 500 grams

100%


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BASE BODY LOTION Batch Size: 60 Ounces


Aqua 42.06 ounces

70.1% Diluent


Xanthan Gum 0.18 ounce

0.3% Thickener LC

3. Glycerin Glycerin 2.4 ounces

4% Humectant Most suppliers



0.78 ounce

1.3% Preservative ITDF, LC, TH, MC, FSS

5. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 0.78 ounce

1.3% pH Adjustor ITDF, LC


Gratissima Oil 6 ounces 10% Emollient Most


Oil 3 ounces 5% Emollient Most



3.6 ounces 6% Emulsifier LC, TH, A, FSS


1.2 ounces

2% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH, MC



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PROCEDURE: BASE BODY LOTION

Weigh all ingredients.

1. Add water into primary heating vessel.

2. Sprinkle and stir xanthan gum into water. Using high shear propeller agitation mix and break up xanthan gum clumps.

3. Add and stir after each addition; glycerin, gluconolactone (and) sodium benzoate and sodium citrate.

4. Blend mixture with high shear propeller agitation.

5. Into secondary heating vessel, add avocado oil, coconut oil, cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside and cetearyl alcohol.

6. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 80°C/175°F.

7. Using high shear propeller agitation pour Phase B into Phase A and mix until mixture is smooth and blended (about 5 minutes).

8. Reduce speed and stir until cool down phase 43°C/110°F - 49°C/120°F.

9. Add essential oils at the cool down phase and mix.

10. Continue to mix emulsion until room temperature.


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BASE MOISTURIZER Batch Size: 100 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Water Phase 1. Distilled or Deionized Water









Oil Phase 6. Fixed Plant Oil 16 grams 16% Emollient Most

Suppliers 7. Montanov™ 68 or SugarMulse Vegetal



8. Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol 1 gram 1% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH, MC


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BASE MOISTURIZER Batch Size: 500 Grams


Aqua 361 grams 72.2% Diluent







5. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 6 grams 1.2% Sodium Citrate

ITDF, LC

Oil Phase 6. Fixed Plant Oil 80 grams 16% Emollient Most




8. Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol 5 grams 1% Thickeners ITDF, LC, TH, MC


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BASE MOISTURIZER Batch Size: 60 Ounces




Xanthan Gum 0.18 ounce 0.3% Thickener LC





5. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 0.72 ounce 1.2% Sodium Citrate

ITDF, LC

Oil Phase 6. Fixed Plant Oil 9.6 ounces 16% Emollient Most



3 ounces 5% Emulsifier LC, TH, A, FSS

8. Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol 0.6 ounce 1% Thickeners ITDF, LC, TH, MC


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PROCEDURE: BASE MOISTURIZER






5. Into secondary heating vessel, add fixed plant oil, cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside and cetearyl alcohol.



8. Reduce speed and stir until cool down phase 43°C/110°F - 49°C/120°F.




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CALM SKIN MOISTURIZER Batch Size: 100 Grams









5. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 1.2 grams 1.2% pH Adjuster ITDF, LC

Phase B 6. Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima Oil 16 grams 16% Emollient Most




8. Cetearyl Alcohol


Phase C 9. Calendula CO2

Calendula Extract 1 gram 1% Soothing Essential Oil Supplier


Scent Suggestion Roman Chamomile

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CALM SKIN MOISTURIZER Batch Size: 500 Grams









5. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 6 grams 1.2% pH Adjuster ITDF, LC

Phase B 6. Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima





8. Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol 5 grams 1% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH, MC


Calendula Extract 5 grams 1% Soothing Essential Oil Supplier


Essential Oil Suggestion Roman Chamomile

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CALM SKIN MOISTURIZER Batch Size: 60 Ounces









5. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 0.72 ounce 1.2% pH Adjuster ITDF, LC

Phase B 6. Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima Oil 9.6 ounces 16% Emollient Most




8. Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol 0.6 ounce 1% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH, MC


Calendula Extract 0.6 ounce 1% Soothing Essential Oil Supplier


Essential Oil Suggestion Roman Chamomile

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PROCEDURE: CALM SKIN MOISTURIZER






5. Into secondary heating vessel, add avocado oil, cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside and cetearyl alcohol.


8. Using high shear propeller agitation pour Phase B into Phase A and mix until mixture is smooth and blended (about 5 minutes). 9. Reduce speed and stir until cool down phase 43°C/110°F - 49°C/120°F.

10. Add calendula CO2 and essential oils at the cool down phase and mix.



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BILBERRY SKIN BRIGHTENING MOISTURIZER Batch Size: 100 Grams








4. Sodium Citrate


Phase B

5. Sunflower Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil


6. Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima Oil 8 grams 8% Emollient Most Suppliers

7. Montanov™ 68 or SugarMulse Vegetal



8. Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Glucoside 1 gram 1% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH, MC

Phase C 9. Bilberry Extract

Glycerin & Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract

3 grams 3% Antioxidant FSS


Essential Oil Blend Suggestion Carrot Seed and Bergamot FCF

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BILBERRY SKIN BRIGHTENING MOISTURIZER Batch Size: 500 Grams








4. Sodium Citrate


Phase B

5. Sunflower Oil



6. Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima Oil 40 grams 8% Emollient Most Suppliers




8. Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Glucoside 5 grams 1% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH, MC






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BILBERRY SKIN BRIGHTENING MOISTURIZER Batch Size: 60 Ounces








4. Sodium Citrate


Phase B

5. Sunflower Oil



6. Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima Oil 4.8 ounces 8% Emollient Most Suppliers




8. Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Glucoside 0.6 ounce 1% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH, MC



1.8 ounces 3% Antioxidant FSS



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PROCEDURE: BILBERRY SKIN BRIGHTENING MOISTURIZER




3. Add and stir after each addition; gluconolactone (and) sodium benzoate and sodium citrate.


5. Into secondary heating vessel, add sunflower oil, avocado oil, cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside and cetearyl alcohol. 6. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 80°C/175°F


9. Add bilberry extract and essential oils at the cool down phase and mix.



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MEN’S MOISTURIZER with PERILLA PLANT STEM CELL Batch Size: 100 Grams








4. Sodium Citrate






7. Cetearyl Alcohol


Phase C 8. Phyto- Biotics Perilla Extract

Perilla Frutescens Extract



Essential Oil Blend Suggestion Bergamot FCF, Cypress, Lavender

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MEN’S MOISTURIZER with PERILLA PLANT STEM CELL Batch Size: 500 Grams








4. Sodium Citrate






7. Cetearyl Alcohol







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MEN’S MOISTURIZER with PERILLA PLANT STEM CELL Batch Size: 60 Ounces








4. Sodium Citrate


Phase B 5. Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima Oil 9.6 ounces 16% Emollient Most




7. Cetearyl Alcohol




3 ounces 5% Antioxidant FSS



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PROCEDURE: MEN’S MOISTURIZER with PERILLA PLANT STEM CELL






5. Into secondary heating vessel, add avocado oil, cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside and cetearyl alcohol. 6. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 80°C/175°F


9. Add perilla extract and essential oils at the cool down phase and mix.


Testing pH: test the pH and adjust to the range of pH 5.0-5.5 Batch Testing: test for bacteria, yeast and mold

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REGENERATING AND FIRM SKIN MOISTURIZER with MSM and DMAE Batch Size: 100 Grams









5. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 1.3 grams 1.3% Sodium Citrate

ITDF, LC

6. DMAE Dimethylamino- ethanol

3 grams 3% Firm Skin EW, ITDF

7. MSM DimethylSulfone 2 grams 2% Collagen Support

EW, ITDF

Phase B 8. Fixed Plant Oil 16 grams 16% Emollient Most

suppliers




10. Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 2 grams 2% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH, MC

Phase C 11. White Tea Extract Camellia

Sinensis Extract 5 grams 5% See note


Essential Oil Blend Suggestion Cape Chamomile and Lavender

Note: Essential Wholesale no longer carries white tea extract or any alcohol extracts, replace with an alcohol extract or a grain alcohol or Leucidal Liquid extract.

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REGENERATING AND FIRM SKIN MOISTURIZER with MSM and DMAE Batch Size: 500 Grams




Xanthan Gum 1 gram 0.2% Thickener LC





5. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 6.5 grams 1.3% Sodium Citrate

ITDF, LC


15 grams 3% Firm Skin EW, ITDF

7. MSM DimethylSulfone 10 grams 2% Collagen Support

EW, ITDF

Phase B 8. Fixed Plant Oil 80 grams 16% Emollient Most

suppliers




10. Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 10 grams 2% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH, MC


Sinensis Extract 25 grams 5% See note




www.JoanMorais.com


REGENERATING AND FIRM SKIN MOISTURIZER with MSM and DMAE Batch Size: 60 Ounces





3. Glycerin Glycerin 1.8 ounces 3% Humectant Most suppliers




5. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 0.78 ounce 1.3% Sodium Citrate

ITDF, LC


1.8 ounces 3% Firm Skin EW, ITDF

7. MSM DimethylSulfone 1.2 ounces 2% Collagen Support

EW, ITDF

Phase B 8. Fixed Plant Oil 9.6 ounces 16% Emollient Most

suppliers



3.6 ounces 6% Emulsifier LC, TH, A, FSS

10. Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 1.2 ounces 2% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH, MC


Sinensis Extract 3 ounces 5% Antioxidant See note




www.JoanMorais.com


PROCEDURE: REGENERATING AND FIRM SKIN MOISTURIZER with MSM and DMAE




3. Add and stir after each addition; gluconolactone (and) sodium benzoate, sodium citrate, DMAE, MSM.


5. Into secondary heating vessel, add fixed plant oil, cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside and cetearyl alcohol. 6. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 80°C/175°F

7. Using high shear propeller agitation pour Phase B into Phase A and mix until mixture is smooth and blended (about 5 minutes). 8. Reduce speed and stir until cool down phase 43°C/110°F - 49°C/120°F

9. Add white tea extract and essential oils at the cool down phase and mix.



www.JoanMorais.com


RENEWING AND FIRMING PEPTIDE MOISTURIZER Batch Size: 100 Grams









5. Sodium Citrate



3 grams 3% EW, ITDF

7. Hyaluronic Acid SLMW

Hyaluronic Acid 0.3 grams 0.3% Moisturizing Agent

LC, ITDF, TH

Phase B 8. Meadowfoam Seed Oil

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil





10. Cetearyl Alcohol


Phase C 11. Hexapeptide 1 PF

Water & Hexapeptide-11

2 grams 2% FSS


www.JoanMorais.com


RENEWING AND FIRMING PEPTIDE MOISTURIZER Batch Size: 500 Grams









5. Sodium Citrate



15 grams 3% EW, ITDF


Hyaluronic Acid 1.5 grams 0.3% Moisturizing Agent

LC, ITDF, TH











10 grams 2% FSS


www.JoanMorais.com


RENEWING AND FIRMING PEPTIDE MOISTURIZER Batch Size: 60 Ounces









5. Sodium Citrate



1.8 ounces 3% EW, ITDF


Sodium Hyaluronate

0.18 ounce 0.3% Moisturizing Agent

LC, ITDF, TH











1.2 ounces 2% FSS


www.JoanMorais.com


PROCEDURE: RENEWING AND FIRMING PEPTIDE MOISTURIZER




3. Add and stir after each addition; glycerin, gluconolactone (and) sodium benzoate, sodium citrate, DMAE and hyaluronic acid.


5. Into secondary heating vessel, add meadowfoam seed oil, cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside and cetearyl alcohol. 6. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 80°C/175°F.


9. Add hexapeptide 1 and essential oils at the cool down phase and mix.



www.JoanMorais.com


BASE CREAM: NOURISHING CUPUACU CREAM Batch Size: 100 Grams









5. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 1 gram 1% pH Adjuster ITDF, LC

Phase B 6. Jojoba Oil Simmondsia

Chinensis 5 grams 5% Emollient, high

in Vitamins Most suppliers

7. Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima Oil


8. Cupuacu Butter

Theobroma Grandiflorum

6 grams 6% Emollient ITDF, TH, FSS

9. Olivem 1000

Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate

4.5 grams 4.5% Emulsifier ITDF, LC, MC, TH, FSS

10. Oliwax LC Cetyl Palmitate (and) Sorbitan Palmitate (and) Sorbitan Olivate

4 grams 4% Emulsifier Thickener

ITDF, LC, MC, TH




www.JoanMorais.com


BASE CREAM: NOURISHING CUPUACU CREAM Batch Size: 500 Grams




Xanthan Gum 2 grams 0.4% Thickener LC





5. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 5 grams 1% pH Adjuster ITDF, LC


Chinensis 25 grams 5% Emollient,

high in Vitamins

Most suppliers



8. Cupuacu Butter



9. Olivem 1000





ITDF, LC, MC, TH




www.JoanMorais.com


BASE CREAM: NOURISHING CUPUACU CREAM Batch Size: 60 Ounces









5. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 0.6 ounce 1% pH Adjuster ITDF, LC


Chinensis 3 ounces 5% Emollient,

high in Vitamins

Most suppliers



8. Cupuacu Butter


3.6 ounces 6% Emollient ITDF, TH, FSS

9. Olivem 1000


2.7 ounces 4.5% Emulsifier ITDF, LC, MC, TH, FSS


2.4 ounces 4% Emulsifier Thickener

ITDF, LC, MC, TH




www.JoanMorais.com


PROCEDURE: BASE CREAM: NOURISHING CUPUACU CREAM






5. Into secondary heating vessel, add jojoba oil, avocado oil, cupuacu butter, Olivem 1000, Oliwax LC and cetearyl alcohol. 6. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 80°C/175°F.





www.JoanMorais.com


MOISTURIZING CAMU CAMU CREAM Batch Size: 100 Grams









5. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 1 gram 1% pH Adjuster LC

Phase B 6. Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima


suppliers 7. Cupuacu Butter



8. Olivem 1000





ITDF, LC, MC, TH


Cetearyl Alcohol 1 gram 1% Thickener Most suppliers

Phase C

11. Camu Camu Flower Extract

Water (and) Myrciaria Dubia Flower Extract


12. Sea Buckthorn Berry Oil

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

0.5 gram 0.5% Antioxidant LC


Essential Oil Blend Suggestion Neroli and Blood Orange

www.JoanMorais.com


MOISTURIZING CAMU CAMU CREAM Batch Size: 500 Grams


Aqua 321.5 grams

64.3% Diluent







5. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 5 grams 1% pH Adjuster LC


Gratissima Oil


7. Cupuacu Butter



8. Olivem 1000





ITDF, LC, MC, TH


Cetearyl Alcohol 5 grams 1% Thickener Most suppliers

Phase C






2.5 grams 0.5% Antioxidant LC



www.JoanMorais.com


MOISTURIZING CAMU CAMU CREAM Batch Size: 60 Ounces








0.78 ounces 1.3% Preservative ITDF, LC, TH, MC, FSS

5. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 0.6 ounce 1% pH Adjuster LC


Gratissima Oil


7. Cupuacu Butter


3.6 ounces 6% Emollient ITDF, TH, FSS

8. Olivem 1000





ITDF, LC, MC, TH


Cetearyl Alcohol 0.6 ounce 1% Thickener Most suppliers

Phase C



1.8 ounces 3% Antioxidant FSS



0.3 ounce 0.5% Antioxidant LC



www.JoanMorais.com


PROCEDURE: MOISTURIZING CAMU CAMU CREAM






5. Into secondary heating vessel, add avocado oil, cupuacu butter, Olivem 1000, Oliwax LC and cetearyl alcohol. 6. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 80°C/175°F.


9. Add camu camu extract, sea buckthorn berry oil and essential oils at the cool down phase and mix.



www.JoanMorais.com


AGE-DEFYING REJUVENATING FACIAL CREAM Batch Size: 100 Grams



2. Aloe Powder 200X

Aloe Juice 0.36 gram 0.36% Humectant ITDF, LC, MC, TH


Sodium Hyaluronate 0.1 gram 0.1% Moisturizer LC, TH


Phase B 5. Apricot Oil Prunus armeniaca 6 grams 6% Emollient Most

Suppliers 6. Meadowfoam Seed Oil

Limnanthes alba 3 grams 3% Emollient EW, FNWL, MRH, ITDF

7. Jojoba Oil Simmondsia chinensis


8. Shea Butter Butyrospermum parkii

3 grams 3% Most Suppliers





LC, MC, TH

Phase C 11. White Tea Extract

Camellia sinensis (white tea) extract

2 grams 2% Antioxidant See note

12. Argan Oil Argania spinosa (argan) nut oil

1 gram 1% Emollient MRH, ITDF

13. Rosemary CO2


0.1 gram 0.1% Antioxidant MRH, FNWL, EW, ITDF




Total 100 grams 100% Note: Essential Wholesale no longer carries white tea extract or any alcohol extracts, replace with an alcohol extract or a grain alcohol or Leucidal Liquid extract.

www.JoanMorais.com


AGE-DEFYING REJUVENATING FACIAL CREAM Batch Size: 500 Grams



2. Aloe Powder 200X

Aloe Juice 1.8 grams 0.36% Humectant ITDF, LC, MC, TH


Sodium Hyaluronate 0.5 gram 0.1% Moisturizer LC, TH


Phase B 5. Apricot Oil Prunus armeniaca 30 grams 6% Emollient Most


Limnanthes alba 15 grams 3% Emollient EW, FNWL, MRH, ITDF




15 grams 3% Most Suppliers





LC, MC, TH





5 grams 1% Emollient MRH, ITDF

13. Rosemary CO2


0.5 gram 0.1% Antioxidant MRH, FNWL, EW, ITDF




Total 500 grams 100% Note: Essential Wholesale no longer carries white tea extract or any alcohol extracts, replace with an alcohol extract or a grain alcohol or Leucidal Liquid extract.

www.JoanMorais.com


AGE-DEFYING REJUVENATING FACIAL CREAM Batch Size: 60 Ounces



2. Aloe Powder 200X

Aloe Juice 0.22 ounce 0.36% Humectant ITDF, LC, MC, TH


Sodium Hyaluronate 0.06 ounce 0.1% Moisturizer LC, TH


Phase B 5. Apricot Oil Prunus armeniaca 3.6 ounces 6% Emollient Most


Limnanthes alba 1.8 ounces 3% Emollient EW, FNWL, MRH, ITDF




1.8 ounces 3% Most Suppliers





LC, MC, TH



1.2 ounces 2% Antioxidant See note


0.6 ounce 1% Emollient MRH, ITDF

13. Rosemary CO2


0.06 ounce 0.1% Antioxidant MRH, FNWL, EW, ITDF




Total 60 ounces 100% Note: Essential Wholesale no longer carries white tea extract or any alcohol extracts, replace with an alcohol extract or a grain alcohol or Leucidal Liquid extract.

www.JoanMorais.com


PROCEDURE: AGE-DEFYING REJUVENATING FACIAL CREAM


2. Sprinkle and stir after each addition aloe vera powder, hyaluronic acid and glycerin into water.


4. Into secondary heating vessel, add apricot oil, meadowfoam seed oil, jojoba oil, shea butter, Olivem 1000 and Oliwax LC. 5. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 80°C/175°F


8. Add white tea extract, argan oil, rosemary CO2, leucidal liquid SF and essential oils at the cool down phase and mix.



www.JoanMorais.com


ORGANIC CAMELLIA FACIAL CREAM Batch Size: 100 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A


55.61 grams 55.61% Diluent

2. Organic Aloe Vera 200X (on 58 grams water, 58 x 0.5% = 0.29)

Aloe Vera Juice 0.29 gram 0.29% Humectant ITDF, LC, TH

3. Organic Glycerin Glycerin 3 grams 3% Humectant EW

Phase B

4. Organic Camellia Oil

Camellia japonica Seed Oil

8 grams 8% Emollient Amazon, OH OH Organics, FNWL

5. Organic Jojoba Oil Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

3 grams 3% Emollient EW, OH OH Organics

6. Organic Mango Buttter

Mangifera Indica Seed Oil

3 grams 3% Emollient FSS, ITDF, FNWL, EW, LC, TH

7. NatraMulse or EcoMulse RitaMulseSCG



Phase C

8. Organic Alcohol- 190 proof

Organic Alcohol 20 grams 20% Preservative Organic Alcohol, Alchemical Solutions

9. Organic Rosemary CO2


0.1 gram 0.1% ITDF, FNWL, MRH, EW, TH


www.JoanMorais.com


ORGANIC CAMELLIA FACIAL CREAM Batch Size: 500 Grams




2. Organic Aloe Vera 200x (on 58 grams water, 58 x 0.5% = 0.29)

Aloe Vera Juice 1.45 gram 0.29% Humectant ITDF, LC, TH

3. Organic Glycerin Glycerin 15 grams 3% Humectant EW

Phase B



40 grams 8% Emollient Amazon, OH OH Organics, FNWL


15 grams 3% Emollient EW, OH OH Organics



15 grams 3% Emollient FSS, ITDF, FNWL, EW, LC, TH




Phase C


Organic Alcohol 100 grams 20% Preservative Organic Alcohol Alchemical Solutions



0.5 gram 0.1% ITDF, FNWL, MRH, EW, TH


www.JoanMorais.com


ORGANIC CAMELLIA FACIAL CREAM Batch Size: 60 Ounces



33.37 ounces 55.61% Diluent

2. Organic Aloe Vera 200x (on 58 grams water, 58 x 0.5% = 0.29)

Aloe Vera Juice 0.17 ounces 0.29% Humectant ITDF, LC, TH

3. Organic Glycerin Glycerin 1.8 ounces 3% Humectant EW

Phase B



4.8 ounces 8% Emollient Amazon OH OH Organics FNWL


1.8 ounces 3% Emollient EW, OH OH Organics



1.8 ounces 3% Emollient FSS, ITDF, FNWL, EW, LC, TH



4.2 ounces 7% Emulsifier ITDF, LC, TH, FSS

Phase C


Organic Alcohol 12 ounces 20% Preservative Organic Alcohol, Alchemi cal Solution s



0.06 ounces 0.1% ITDF, FNWL, MRH, EW, TH


www.JoanMorais.com


PROCEDURE: ORGANIC CAMELLIA FACIAL CREAM

1. Add water into primary heating vessel and stir in aloe vera 200x powder.

2. Add and stir in glycerin.

3. Into secondary heating vessel, add camellia oil, jojoba oil, mango butter and glyceryl stearate (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) sodium stearoyl lactylate. 4. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 80°C/175°F


6. Reduce speed and stir until cool down phase 38°C/100°F.

7. Add alcohol, rosemary CO2 and essential oils at the cool down phase and mix.



www.JoanMorais.com


WILD ORCHID AND ROSE MOISTURIZER with FLOWER + GEM ESSENCES Batch Size: 100 Grams



2. Rose Hydrosol

Rose Hydrosol 15 grams 15% Soothing Scent

FSS



4. Glycerin Glycerin 2 grams 2% Humectant



1.3 grams 1.3% Preservative ITDF, LC, MC, TH, FSS

6. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 1 gram 1% pH Adjuster ITDF, LC

Phase B 7. Sunflower Oil

Helianthus Annus

6 grams 6% Emollient High in Vitamins

Most suppliers

8. Rosehip Seed Oil

Rosa Mosqueta Hip Oil

5 grams 5% Emollient LC, MRH

9. Shea Nilotica Vitellaria Nilotica Fruit Butter

5 grams 5% LC, FNWL

10. Olivem 1000




4 grams 4% Thickener LC, MC, TH



Phase C

13. Wild Orchid Flower Extract

Cymidium Grandiflorum Flower Extract

3 grams 3% FSS

Total 100 grams 100% Rose Quartz Gem Essence

Rose Quartz Gem Essence

10 drops Essence Star Essence

Rose Flower Essence

Rose Flower Essence


www.JoanMorais.com


WILD ORCHID AND ROSE MOISTURIZER with FLOWER + GEM ESSENCES Batch Size: 500 Grams



2. Rose Hydrosol

Rose Hydrosol 75 grams 15% Soothing Scent

FSS



4. Glycerin Glycerin 10 grams 2% Humectant




6. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 5 grams 1% pH Adjuster ITDF, LC


Helianthus Annus

30 grams 6% Emollient High in Vitamins

Most suppliers

8. Rosehip Seed Oil


25 grams 5% Emollient LC, MRH


25 grams 5% LC, FNWL

10. Olivem 1000




20 grams 4% Thickener LC, MC, TH



Phase C



15 grams 3% FSS

Total 500 grams 100% Rose Quartz Gem Essence



Rose Flower Essence

Rose Flower Essence


www.JoanMorais.com


WILD ORCHID AND ROSE MOISTURIZER with FLOWER + GEM ESSENCES Batch Size: 60 Ounces



2. Rose Hydrosol

Rose Hydrosol 9 ounces 15% Soothing Scent

FSS



4. Glycerin Glycerin 1.2 ounces 2% Humectant



0.78 ounce 1.3% Preservative ITDF, LC, MC, TH, FSS

6. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 0.6 ounce 1% pH Adjuster ITDF, LC


Helianthus Annus

3.6 ounces 6% Emollient High in Vitamins

Most suppliers

8. Rosehip Seed Oil


3 ounces 5% Emollient LC, MRH


3 ounces 5% LC, FSS

10. Olivem 1000




2.4 ounces 4% Thickener LC, MC, TH



Phase C



1.8 ounces 3% FSS

Total 60 ounces 100% Rose Quartz Gem Essence



Rose Flower Essence

Rose Flower Essence


www.JoanMorais.com


PROCEDURE: WILD ORCHID AND ROSE MOISTURIZER with FLOWER + GEM ESSENCES

1. Add water and hydrosol into primary heating vessel.




5. Into secondary heating vessel, add sunflower oil, rosehip seed oil, shea nilotica, Olivem 1000, Oliwax LC and cetearyl alcohol. 6. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 80°C/175°F.


9. Add wild orchid extract, gem essence, flower essence and essential oils at the cool down phase and mix.



www.JoanMorais.com


CHAMOMILE AND EYEBRIGHT EYE CREAM Batch Size: 100 Grams




2. Hydrosol (chamomile or lavender)

Chamomile hydrosol or lavender hydrosol

16 grams 16% Soothing Scent

FSS



Phase B 4. Cucumber Seed Oil

Cucumis Sativus Oil

1 gram 1% Emollient FNWL, LC




5 grams 5% Emulsifier ITDF, LC, MC, TH, FSS


4 grams 4% Thickener ITDF, LC, MC, TH

8. Cetearyl Alcohol


Phase C

9. Organic Eyebright Extract RS

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract & Water & Euphrasia Officinalis Extract

3 grams 3% Soothing Toning

FSS

10. Chamomile Extract PF

Water & Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract

4 grams 4% Soothing Calming

FSS





www.JoanMorais.com


CHAMOMILE AND EYEBRIGHT EYE CREAM Batch Size: 500 Grams







FSS




Cucumis Sativus Oil

5 grams 1% Emollient FNWL, LC







8. Cetearyl Alcohol


Phase C




FSS




FSS





www.JoanMorais.com


CHAMOMILE AND EYEBRIGHT EYE CREAM Batch Size: 60 Ounces






9.6 ounces 16% Soothing Scent

FSS


Xanthan Gum 0.18 ounces 0.3% Thickener LC


Cucumis Sativus Oil

0.6 ounces 1% Emollient FNWL, LC




3 ounces 5% Emulsifier ITDF, LC, MC, TH, FSS


2.4 ounces 4% Thickener ITDF, LC, MC, TH

8. Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol 0.6 ounces 1% Thickener Most suppliers

Phase C



1.8 ounces 3% Soothing Toning

FSS



2.4 ounces 4% Soothing Calming

FSS





www.JoanMorais.com


PROCEDURE: CHAMOMILE AND EYEBRIGHT EYE CREAM



3. Into secondary heating vessel, add cucumber seed oil, avocado oil, Olivem 1000, Oliwax LC and cetearyl alcohol. 4. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 80°C/175°F.


7. Add eyebright extract, chamomile extract, Leucidal liquid SF and essential oils at the cool down phase and mix.



Directions for Use Using less than the size of a pea of cream, use the tip of the baby finger and gently press the eye cream into the skin around each eye being careful not to get too close to the eye. Usually, eye cream does not need to be applied to the eyelids.

www.JoanMorais.com


CHAMOMILE AND EYEBRIGHT EYE CREAM with preservative GSB

Batch Size: 100 Grams Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A






FSS





1.3 grams 1.3% Preservative ITDF, LC, MC, TH

5. Sodium Citrate



Cucumis Sativus Oil

1 gram 1% Emollient FNWL, LC









Phase C




FSS




FSS


www.JoanMorais.com


PROCEDURE: CHAMOMILE AND EYEBRIGHT EYE CREAM with preservative GSB





5. Into secondary heating vessel, add cucumber seed oil, avocado oil, Olivem 1000, Oliwax LC and cetearyl alcohol. 6. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 80°C/175°F


9. Add eyebright extract, chamomile extract and essential oils at the cool down phase and mix.




www.JoanMorais.com


REVITALIZING EYE CREAM Batch Size: 100 Grams









5. Sodium Citrate



Suppliers 7. Green Coffee Seed Oil

Coffea Arabica Seed Oil

1 gram 1% Emollient FNWL

8. SugarMulse Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside

5 grams 5% Emulsifier TH, FSS

9. Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol 1 gram 1% Thickener ITDF, LC, MC, TH

Phase C 10. Revital- Eyes

Water & Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate & Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract & Punica Granatum Extract & Caffeine

5 grams 5% Tightening FSS


www.JoanMorais.com


REVITALIZING EYE CREAM Batch Size: 500 Grams









5. Sodium Citrate





5 grams 1% Emollient FNWL



9. Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol 5 grams 1% Thickener ITDF, LC, MC, TH



25 grams 5% Tightening FSS


www.JoanMorais.com


REVITALIZING EYE CREAM Batch Size: 60 Ounces









5. Sodium Citrate


Phase B 6. Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima Oil 6 ounces 10% Emollient Most



0.6 ounce 1% Emollient FNWL


3 ounces 5% Emulsifier TH, FSS

9. Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol 0.6 ounce 1% Thickener ITDF, LC, MC, TH



3 ounces 5% Tightening FSS


www.JoanMorais.com


PROCEDURE: REVITALIZING EYE CREAM






5. Into secondary heating vessel, add avocado oil, green coffee seed oil, cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside and cetearyl alcohol. 6. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 80°C/175°F.


9. Add Revital-Eyes and essential oils at the cool down phase and mix.




www.JoanMorais.com


PINK LOTUS AND COCONUT BUTTER CREAM Batch Size: 100 Grams



2. Aloe Vera Powder 200x

Aloe Vera Juice 0.3 grams 0.3% Humectant LC, ITDF, TH

3. Glycerin Glycerin 2 grams 2% Moisturizer, Humectant

Most Suppliers

Phase B 4. Apricot Oil

Prunus Armeniaca 10 grams 10% Emollient, Vitamin Rich

Most Suppliers

5. Coconut Oil Cocos Nucifera 5 grams 5% Emollient Most Suppliers

6. Shea Butter

Butyrospermum Parkii

5 grams 5% Emollient, Sun Protection

Most Suppliers

7. Cupuacu Butter


5 grams 5% Emollient ITDF, FNWL, TH, FSS

8. Olivem1000 Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate

6 grams 6% Emulsifier LC, ITDF, TH, FSS

Phase C 9. Pink Lotus Extract

Nelumbo Nucifera Extract

2 grams 2% Properties of the botanical

HawaiiPharm- Amazon

10. Rosemary CO2


0.1 gram 0.1% Antioxidant EW, ITDF, MRH, TH





www.JoanMorais.com


PINK LOTUS AND COCONUT BUTTER CREAM Batch Size: 500 Grams




Aloe Vera Juice 1.5 grams 0.3% Humectant LC, ITDF, TH

3. Glycerin Glycerin 10 grams 2% Moisturizer, Humectant

Most Suppliers


Prunus Armeniaca 50 grams 10% Emollient, Vitamin Rich

Most Suppliers

5. Coconut Oil

Cocos Nucifera 25 grams 5% Emollient Most Suppliers

6. Shea Butter


25 grams 5% Emollient, Sun Protection

Most Suppliers

7. Cupuacu Butter


25 grams 5% Emollient ITDF, FNWL, TH, FSS

8. Olivem1000


30 grams 6% Emulsifier LC, ITDF, TH, FSS



10 grams 2% Properties of the botanical

HawaiiPharm- Amazon

10. Rosemary CO2


0.5 gram 0.1% Antioxidant EW, ITDF, MRH, TH





www.JoanMorais.com


PINK LOTUS AND COCONUT BUTTER CREAM Batch Size: 60 Ounces




Aloe Vera Juice 0.18 ounce 0.3% Humectant LC, ITDF, TH

3. Glycerin Glycerin 1.2 ounces 2% Moisturizer, Humectant

Most Suppliers


Prunus Armeniaca 6 ounces 10% Emollient, Vitamin Rich

Most Suppliers

5. Coconut Oil

Cocos Nucifera 3 ounces 5% Emollient Most Suppliers

6. Shea Butter


3 ounces 5% Emollient, Sun Protection

Most Suppliers

7. Cupuacu Butter


3 ounces 5% Emollient ITDF, FNWL, TH, FSS

8. Olivem1000


3.6 ounces 6% Emulsifier LC, ITDF, TH, FSS



1.2 ounces 2% Properties of the botanical

HawaiiPharm- Amazon

10. Rosemary CO2


0.06 ounce 0.1% Antioxidant EW, ITDF, MRH, TH





www.JoanMorais.com


PROCEDURE: PINK LOTUS AND COCONUT BUTTER CREAM



2. Sprinkle and stir aloe vera powder into water.

3. Add and stir in glycerin.

4. Into secondary heating vessel, add apricot oil, coconut oil, shea butter, cupuacu butter and Olivem 1000. 5. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 80°C/175°F.


8. Add pink lotus extract, rosemary antioxidant CO2, Leucidal liquid SF and essential oils at the cool down phase and mix.



www.JoanMorais.com

©2016-2020 Joan Morais 100

BASE BODY BUTTER: NOURISHING CUPUACU BUTTER Batch Size: 100 Grams





3. Mango Extract

Glycerin & Mangifera Indica (Mango) Flower Extract

4 grams 4% Moisturizer FSS




5. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 1.3 gram 1.3% pH Adjuster LC


Chinensis 5 grams 5% Emollient Most

suppliers 7. Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima





9. Olivem 1000


4.5 grams 4.5% Emulsifier ITDF, LC, MC, TH


4 grams 4% Thickener ITDF, LC, MC, TH, FSS




©2016-2020 Joan Morais

101 www.JoanMorais.com

BASE BODY BUTTER: NOURISHING CUPUACU BUTTER Batch Size: 500 Grams


Aqua 312.50 grams

62.5% Diluent



3. Mango Extract






5. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 6.5 gram 1.3% pH Adjuster LC


Chinensis 25 grams 5% Emollient Most






9. Olivem 1000










BASE BODY BUTTER: NOURISHING CUPUACU BUTTER Batch Size: 60 Ounces





3. Mango Extract


2.4 ounces 4% Moisturizer FSS




5. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 0.78 ounce 1.3% pH Adjuster LC


Chinensis 3 ounces 5% Emollient Most


Oil 3.6 ounces 6% Emollient Most



6 ounces 10% Emollient ITDF, TH, FSS

9. Olivem 1000










PROCEDURE: BASE BODY BUTTER: NOURISHING CUPUACU BUTTER




3. Add and stir after each addition; mango extract, gluconolactone (and) sodium benzoate and sodium citrate.


5. Into secondary heating vessel, add jojoba oil, avocado oil, cupuacu butter, Olivem 1000, Oliwax LC and cetearyl alcohol. 6. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 80°C/175°F.







SMOOTH AND SILKY BODY BUTTER (ANHYDROUS) Batch Size: 100 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. Cocoa Butter

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter


2. Shea Butter Butyrospermum Parkii


3. Sunflower Oil



4. Apricot Oil Prunus Armeniaca 25 grams 25% Emollient Most Suppliers


Optional to Extend Shelf Life of Oils:

5. Rosemary Antioxidant CO2

0.1 grams 0.1%

Scent Blend 21 drops Sweet Orange Essential Oil 7 drops Ylang Ylang Essential Oil



SMOOTH AND SILKY BODY BUTTER (ANHYDROUS) Batch Size: 500 Grams






3. Sunflower Oil



4. Apricot Oil Prunus Armeniaca 125 grams 25% Emollient Most Suppliers




0.5 grams 0.1%

Scent 1 teaspoon Sweet Orange Essential Oil ¼ teaspoon plus 10 drops Ylang Ylang Essential Oil



SMOOTH AND SILKY BODY BUTTER (ANHYDROUS) Batch Size: 60 Ounces



15 ounces 25% Emollient Most Suppliers



3. Sunflower Oil



4. Apricot Oil Prunus Armeniaca 15 ounces 25% Emollient Most Suppliers




0.06 ounces

0.1%

Scent 3 teaspoons Sweet Orange Essential Oil 1 teaspoon Ylang Ylang Essential Oil



PROCEDURE: SMOOTH AND SILKY BODY BUTTER (ANHYDROUS)


1. Add shea butter and cocoa butter into heat vessel and melt.

2. As soon as butters are melted, remove from heat.

3. Add melted butters into liquid oils in stainless steel bowl and mix well.

4. Add essential oils and mix well.

5. Set stainless steel bowl into cold-water bath (larger bowl with ice water) and/or put in freezer for 15-30 min, until cloudy on top, like a jelly texture.

6. Using a mixer, whip mixture until a frosting consistency (about 10-20

minutes).

7. Spoon into containers; tap containers on firm surface to remove air.



BASE SERUM WITH HYALURONIC ACID Batch Size: 100 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier

Phase A 1. Distilled or Deionized Water


2. Hyaluronic Acid SMLW

Hyaluronic Acid 0.5 gram 0.5% Moisturizing Agent

LC






1.3 grams 1.3% Preservative ITDF, LC, TH, FSS MC

6. Sodium Citrate


Phase B 7. Fixed Plant Oil


8. SugarMulse Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside


9. Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol

1 gram 1% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH, MC




BASE HYDRATING SERUM WITH HYALURONIC ACID Batch Size: 500 Grams




Hyaluronic Acid 2.5 gram 0.5% Moisturizing Agent

LC


Xanthan Gum 1 gram 0.2% Thickener LC





6. Sodium Citrate






9. Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol





BASE HYDRATING SERUM WITH HYALURONIC ACID Batch Size: 60 Ounces




Hyaluronic Acid 0.3 ounce 0.5% Moisturizing Agent

LC







6. Sodium Citrate





2.4 ounces 4% Emulsifier TH, FSS

9. Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol

0.6 ounce 1% Thickener ITDF, LC, TH, MC




PROCEDURE: BASE HYDRATING SERUM WITH HYALURONIC ACID



2. Sprinkle and stir hyaluronic acid and xanthan gum into water. Using high shear propeller agitation mix and break up xanthan gum clumps.



5. Into secondary heating vessel, add fixed plant oil, cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside and cetearyl alcohol. 6. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 80°C/175°F.







INSTANTLY SOFT AND SMOOTH HAND & FOOT SERUM

Use the base formulation and add the Peppermint, Rose Geranium and Sweet Orange Essential Oil Blend

Peppermint, Rose Geranium and Sweet Orange Essential Oil Blend 10 drops peppermint essential oil

10 drops rose geranium essential oil 5 drops sweet orange essential oil



REGENERATING AND BRIGHTENING SERUM WITH PLANT COLLAGEN Batch Size: 100 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. GSB, Geogard Ultra, Microgard, NeoDefend (if using preserved aloe vera juice, reduce preservative to 1%)

Aqua or Aloe Vera Juice





3. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 1.2 gram 1.2% pH Adjustor LC, TH


Sodium Hyaluronate

0.5 gram 0.5% Moisturizing Agent

LC



6. Sodium Alginate

Algin 2 grams 2% Thickener Gel

TH

Phase B 7. Propanediol Propanediol 20 grams 20% Moisturizing

Agent ITDF, FSS, LC


9. Extract (Pomegranate)

Punica Granatum Extract

5 grams 5% Antioxidant EW

10. Vegetable Collagen

Vegetable Collagen


11. Meadowfoam Seed Oil


4 grams 4% Emollient EW, MRH, LC



0.5 gram 0.5% Emollient LC




REGENERATING AND BRIGHTENING SERUM WITH PLANT COLLAGEN Batch Size: 500 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. Deionized or Distilled Water or Aloe Vera Juice



2. GSB, Geogard Ultra, Microgard, NeoDefend (if using preserved aloe vera juice, reduce preservative to 1%)


7 grams 1.4% Preservative ITDF, LC, TH, MC, FSS

3. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 6 grams 1.2% pH Adjustor LC, TH


Sodium Hyaluronate

2.5 grams 0.5% Moisturizing Agent

LC



6. Sodium Alginate

Algin 10 grams 2% Thickener Gel

TH

Phase B 7. Propanediol Propanediol 100 grams 20% Moisturizing

Agent ITDF, FSS, LC




25 grams 5% Antioxidant EW


Vegetable Collagen




20 grams 4% Emollient EW, MRH, LC



2.5 grams 0.5% Emollient LC




REGENERATING AND BRIGHTENING SERUM WITH PLANT COLLAGEN Batch Size: 60 Ounces

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. Deionized or Distilled Water or Aloe Vera Juice


33.66 ounces 56.1% Diluent

2. GSB, Geogard Ultra, Microgard, NeoDefend (if using preserved aloe vera juice, reduce preservative to 1%)



3. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 0.72 ounce 1.2% pH Adjustor LC, TH


Sodium Hyaluronate

0.3 ounce 0.5% Moisturizing Agent

LC



6. Sodium Alginate

Algin 1.2 ounces 2% Thickener Gel

TH

Phase B 7. Propanediol Propanediol 12 ounces 20% Moisturizing

Agent ITDF, FSS, LC




3 ounces 5% Antioxidant EW


Vegetable Collagen

3 ounces 5% Antioxidant FSS



2.4 ounces 4% Emollient EW, MRH, LC



0.3 ounce 0.5% Emollient LC




PROCEDURE: REGENERATING AND BRIGHTENING SERUM WITH PLANT COLLAGEN


1. Add water or aloe vera juice, gluconolactone (and) sodium benzoate and sodium citrate into primary heating vessel.

2. Sprinkle and stir hyaluronic acid and xanthan gum and sodium alginate into water. Using high shear propeller agitation mix and break up xanthan gum clumps. Allow to hydrate for 10-15 minutes.

3. Add propanediol, glycerin, pomegranate extract, vegetable collagen, meadowfoam seed oil and sea buckthorn berry oil and mix with low shear.

4. Add essential oils




DEEPLY HYDRATING SERUM WITH PLANT CERAMIDES Batch Size: 100 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A Water Phase 1. Aloe vera powder 200x preserved with 1.5% gluconolactone and sodium benzoate or Deionized or Distilled Water plus 1.3% GSB on entire formula

Aloe Vera Juice 64.7 grams

64.7% Diluent

2. Hyaluronic Acid LMW powder

Sodium Hyaluronate

0.5 grams 0.5% Moisture LC

3. Xanthan Gum (soft) Xanthan Gum 0.3 grams 0.3% Thickener LC

4. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 1 gram 1% pH Adjuster ITDF, LC


6. Propanediol Propanediol 10 grams 10% Moisturizing Agent

ITDF, FSS, LC

Phase B Oil Phase 7. Apricot Oil Limnanthes Alba 5 grams 5% Emollient Most

Suppliers 8. Olivem1000 Cetearyl Olivate

(and) Sorbitan Olivate

4.5 grams 4.5% Emulsifier ITDF, LC, TH, FSS

9. Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 1 gram 1% Thickener ITDF, LC, MC, TH

Phase C Cool Down 10. Vegetable Ceramides

Glycerin and Glycosphingolipids

5 grams 5% Elasticity FSS

11. Calendula Extract Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

4 grams 4% Skin Softener Soothing

FSS

Total 100 grams

100%



DEEPLY HYDRATING SERUM WITH PLANT CERAMIDES Batch Size: 500 Grams


Aloe Vera Juice 323.5 grams 64.7% Diluent


Sodium Hyaluronate

2.5 grams 0.5% Moisture LC

3. Xanthan Gum (soft) Xanthan Gum 1.5 grams 0.3% Thickener LC

4. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 5 grams 1% pH Adjuster

ITDF, LC



ITDF, FSS, LC

Phase B Oil Phase 7. Apricot Oil Limnanthes Alba 25 grams 5% Emollient Most



22.5 grams 4.5% Emulsifier ITDF, LC, TH, FSS

9. Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 5 grams 1% Thickener ITDF, LC, MC, TH



25 grams 5% Elasticity FSS


20 grams 4% Skin Softener Soothing

FSS




DEEPLY HYDRATING SERUM WITH PLANT CERAMIDES Batch Size: 60 Ounces


Aloe Vera Juice 38.82 ounces 64.7% Diluent


Sodium Hyaluronate

0.3 ounce 0.5% Moisture LC

3. Xanthan Gum (soft) Xanthan Gum 0.18 ounce 0.3% Thickener LC

4. Sodium Citrate Sodium Citrate 0.6 ounce 1% pH Adjuster

ITDF, LC


6. Propanediol Propanediol 6 ounces 10% Moisturizing Agent

ITDF, FSS, LC

Phase B Oil Phase 7. Apricot Oil Limnanthes Alba 3 ounces 5% Emollient Most



2.7 ounces 4.5% Emulsifier ITDF, LC, TH, FSS

9. Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol 0.6 ounce 1% Thickener ITDF, LC, MC, TH



3 ounces 5% Elasticity FSS


2.4 ounces 4% Skin Softener Soothing

FSS




PROCEDURE: DEEPLY HYDRATING SERUM WITH PLANT CERAMIDES


1. Add water or aloe vera 200x water into primary heating vessel.

2. Sprinkle and stir hyaluronic acid and xanthan gum into water. Using high shear propeller agitation mix and break up xanthan gum clumps.

3. Add and stir after each addition; glycerin, gluconolactone (and) sodium benzoate (if aloe vera water is not sufficiently preserved), sodium citrate, glycerin and propanediol.


5. Into secondary heating vessel, add apricot oil, Olivem 1000 and cetearyl alcohol. 6. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 43°C/110°F - 49°C/120°F.

7. Using high shear propeller agitation pour Phase B into Phase A and mix until mixture is smooth and blended (about 5 minutes). 8. Reduce speed and stir until cool down phase 80°C/175°F.

9. Add vegetable ceramides, calendula extract and essential oils at the cool down phase and mix.





BEAUTIFYING OIL SERUM Batch Size: 30 grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier 1. Camellia Oil Camellia

japonica Seed Oil

6 grams (2 teaspoons)

20% Emollient FNWL ITDF

2. Apricot Oil Prunus Armeniaca


20% Emollient Most Suppliers

3. Avocado Oil Persea Gratissima Fruit Oil



4. CCT or MCT oil

Caprylic Capric Triglycerides


20% Emollient ITDF, health stores

5. Jojoba Oil Simmondsia Chinensis

3 grams (1 teaspoon)


6. Rosehip Seed Oil

Rosa Canina Seed Oil

1.5 grams (½ teaspoon)

5% Emollient Most Suppliers LC

7. Extracts Amazonian Lily Extract in sunflower oil

Victoria Amazonica Flower Extract

1.5 grams (½ teaspoon)

5% Smooth and Supple Skin

FSS

Total 30 grams 100%



BEAUTIFYING OIL SERUM Batch Size: 100 Grams


japonica Seed Oil

20 grams 20% Emollient FNWL ITDF





4. CCT or MCT oil


20 grams 20% Emollient ITDF, health stores



6. Rosehip Seed Oil


5 grams 5% Emollient Most Suppliers LC



5 grams 5% Smooth and Supple Skin

FSS




BEAUTIFYING OIL SERUM Batch Size: 500 Grams


japonica Seed Oil

100 grams 20% Emollient FNWL ITDF





4. CCT or MCT oil


100 grams 20% Emollient ITDF, health stores



6. Rosehip Seed Oil


25 grams 5% Emollient Most Suppliers LC



25 grams 5% Smooth and Supple Skin

FSS




BEAUTIFYING OIL SERUM Batch Size: 20 Ounces


japonica Seed Oil

4 ounces 20% Emollient FNWL ITDF





4. CCT or MCT oil


4 ounces 20% Emollient ITDF, health stores



6. Rosehip Seed Oil


1 ounce 5% Emollient Most Suppliers LC



1 ounce 5% Smooth and Supple Skin

FSS




PROCEDURE: BEAUTIFYING OIL SERUM


1. Combine all ingredients and mix well.

2. Add essential oils and mix.

Options: Add rosemary CO2 at 0.1% for prolonged shelf life.



GEL FACIAL CLEANSER #1 Batch Size: 100 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. Distilled or Deionized Water and Hydrosol (option: distilled water- 67 grams & hydrosol- 20 grams)

Aqua 87 grams 87% Diluent Hydrosol- FSS


3. Willow Bark Extract Salix Alba Bark Extract

2 grams 2% Skin Brightener Exfoliator

EW, FSS

4. Guar Gum Guar Gum 1.5 grams 1.5% Thickener Gel

EW, FSS

5. Decyl Glucoside Decyl Glucoside

2 grams 2% Surfactant EW, ITDF, MC, SOC

6. Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.5 gram 0.5% pH Adjustor Most Suppliers

7. Castor Oil Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

0.5 gram 0.5% Cleansing &Emollient

Most Suppliers

8. Olive Oil Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

0.5 gram 0.5% Cleansing Emollient

Most Suppliers/ Store

9. Leucidal Liquid SF Lactobacillus Ferment


Totals 100 grams

100%



GEL FACIAL CLEANSER #1 Batch Size: 500 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. Distilled or Deionized Water or (option: 80% distilled water- 348 grams + 20% hydrosol- 87 grams)

Aqua 435 grams 87% Diluent Hydrosol- FSS


3. Willow Bark Extract

Salix Alba Bark Extract


EW, FSS

4. Guar Gum Guar Gum 7.5 grams 1.5% Thickener Gel

EW, FSS

5. Decyl Glucoside Decyl Glucoside


6. Citric Acid Citric Acid 2.5 grams 0.5% pH Adjustor Most Suppliers


2.5 grams 0.5% Cleansing Emollient

Most Suppliers



Most Suppliers/Store







GEL FACIAL CLEANSER #1 Batch Size: 60 Ounces

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. Distilled or Deionized Water or (option: 80% distilled water- 41.76 ounces + 20% hydrosol- 10.44 ounces)

Aqua 52.2 ounces 87% Diluent Hydrosol- FSS

2. Glycerin Glycerin 1.2 ounces 2% Humectant EW, FSS



1.2 ounces 2% Skin Brightener Exfoliator

Most Suppliers

4. Guar Gum Guar Gum 0.9 ounce 1.5% Thickener Gel

EW, FSS

5. Decyl Glucoside

Decyl Glucoside

1.2 ounces 2% Surfactant EW, ITDF, MC, SOC

6. Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.3 ounce 0.5% pH Adjustor Most Suppliers


0.3 ounce 0.5% Cleansing Emollient

Most Suppliers/ Store



FSS, LC, TH



2.4 ounces 4% Preservative Hydrosol- FSS




PROCEDURE: GEL FACIAL CLEANSER #1


Phase A 1. In large glass mixing bowl or stainless-steel bowl, add room temperature distilled water, if using hydrosol, add hydrosol to distilled water. Add glycerin and willow bark extract and mix well with stainless steel spoon.

2. Sprinkle small amounts of guar gum into water while whisking continuously with the other hand (to prevent clumping), quickly keep sprinkling guar gum and whisking into water. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and allow to hydrate 10- 15 minutes until it forms a gel.

3. Add decyl glucoside, citric acid, castor oil and olive oil and mix well.

4. Add Leucidal Liquid SF and mix well.


Note Use within 6 months



GEL FACIAL CLEANSER #2 Batch Size: 100 grams



2. Hydrosol 20 grams 20% Soother FSS


Xanthan Gum 1 gram 1% Thickener LC





6. Decyl Glucoside or Coco-Glucoside

Decyl Glucoside or Coco-Glucoside

10 grams 10% Surfactant ITDF, EW, MC, SOC


5 grams 5% Cleansing Emollient

Most Suppliers


0.5 gram 0.5% Cleansing Emollient

Most Suppliers




EW, FSS




GEL FACIAL CLEANSER #2 Batch Size: 500 grams



2. Hydrosol 100 grams 20% Soother FSS


Xanthan Gum 5 grams 1% Thickener LC




7 grams 1.4% Preservative ITDF, LC, TH, MC, FSS



50 grams 10% Surfactant ITDF, EW, MC, SOC


25 grams 5% Cleansing Emollient

Most Suppliers



Most Suppliers




EW, FSS




GEL FACIAL CLEANSER #2 Batch Size: 60 Ounces



2. Hydrosol 12 ounces 20% Soother FSS


Xanthan Gum 0.6 ounce 1% Thickener LC




0.84 ounce 1.4% Preservative ITDF, LC, TH, MC



6 ounces 10% Surfactant ITDF, EW, MC, SOC


3 ounces 5% Cleansing Emollient

Most Suppliers

8. Castor Oil Ricinus communis Seed Oil


Most Suppliers


3 ounces 5% Skin Brightener Exfoliator

EW, FSS




PROCEDURE: GEL FACIAL CLEANSER #2


Phase A 1. In large glass mixing bowl or stainless-steel bowl, add room temperature distilled water, if using hydrosol, add hydrosol to distilled water.

2. Sprinkle xanthan gum into water and use immersion blender to break up clumps.

3. Add glycerin and mix well.

4. Add gluconolactone and sodium benzoate and mix with immersion blender.

3. Add decyl glucoside, olive oil, castor oil and mix well.

4. Add willow bark extract and mix well.




BASE GEL CLEANSER Batch Size: 100 grams







1.4 grams 1.4% Preservative ITDF, LC, MC, TH

4. HEC Cellulose Gum

Hydroxyethyl Cellulose

2 grams 2% Thickener, Gel

TH

Phase B 5. Coco- glucoside or decyl glucoside

Coco-glucoside or decyl glucoside


6. Sunflower Oil



7. Extract 5 grams 5%




BASE GEL CLEANSER Batch Size: 500 grams







7 grams 1.4% Preservative ITDF, LC, MC, TH



10 grams 2% Thickener, Gel

TH




6. Sunflower Oil







BASE GEL CLEANSER Batch Size: 60 Ounces







0.84 ounce 1.4% Preservative ITDF, LC, MC, TH



1.2 ounces 2% Thickener, Gel

TH



6 ounces 10% Surfactant EW, ITDF, MC, SOC

6. Sunflower Oil



7. Extract 3 ounces 5%




PROCEDURE: BASE GEL CLEANSER Weigh all ingredients

1. In heating vessel add water and Phase A ingredients and mix well using immersion blender.

2. Heat Phase A mixture to approximately 82°C/180°F while

continually stirring. Cool to approximately 49°C/120°F.

3. Add Phase B into Phase A and mix well.

4. Add essential oils (scent) and mix well (or you can add the essential oils into Phase B).




SKIN BRIGHTENING CLEANSING CREAM WITH FRUIT ENZYMES Batch Size: 100 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. Distilled Water




3. GSB, Gluconolactone 1.3 grams 1.3% Preservative ITDF, LC, MC, Geogard Ultra, (and) Sodium TH, FSS Microgard, Benzoate NeoDefend 4. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 1 gram 1% pH Adjuster LC


6. Coco- Coco-glucoside or 10 grams 10% ITDF, EW glucoside or decyl glucoside SOC decyl glucoside Phase B 7. Sunflower Oil

Helianthus Annus 12 grams 12% Emollient Most suppliers

8. Olivem 1000



9. Oliwax LC 2 grams 2% Thickener ITDF, LC, MC, TH

Phase C

10. Fruit Enzyme Complex PF

Averrhoa Carambola Fruit Extract & Passiflora Incarnata Fruit

5 grams 5% FSS

Extract & Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Extract & Garcinia Mangostana Extract & Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract & Punica Granatum Extract & Litchi Chinensis Fruit Extract & Zizyphus Jujuba Fruit Extract & Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract Total 100 grams 100%



SKIN BRIGHTENING CLEANSING CREAM WITH FRUIT ENZYMES Batch Size: 500 Grams








4. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 5 grams 1% pH Adjuster LC


6. Coco- glucoside or decyl glucoside


50 grams 10% ITDF, EW, MC, SOC


Helianthus Annus 60 grams 12% Emollient Most suppliers

8. Olivem 1000





Phase C


Averrhoa Carambola Fruit Extract & Passiflora Incarnata Fruit Extract & Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Extract & Garcinia Mangostana Extract & Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract & Punica Granatum Extract & Litchi Chinensis Fruit Extract & Zizyphus Jujuba Fruit Extract & Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract

25 grams 5% FSS




SKIN BRIGHTENING CLEANSING CREAM WITH FRUIT ENZYMES Batch Size: 60 Ounces








4. Sodium Citrate

Sodium Citrate 0.6 ounce 1% pH Adjuster LC


6. Coco- glucoside or decyl glucoside


6 ounces 10% ITDF, EW, MC, SOC


Helianthus Annus 7.2 ounces 12% Emollient Most suppliers

8. Olivem 1000





Phase C


Averrhoa Carambola Fruit Extract & Passiflora Incarnata Fruit Extract & Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Extract & Garcinia Mangostana Extract & Ananas Sativus (Pineapple) Fruit Extract & Punica Granatum Extract & Litchi Chinensis Fruit Extract & Zizyphus Jujuba Fruit Extract & Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract

3 ounces 5% FSS




PROCEDURE: SKIN BRIGHTENING CLEANSING CREAM WITH FRUIT ENZYMES




3. Add and stir after each addition; gluconolactone (and) sodium benzoate, sodium citrate, glycerin and decyl glucoside.

4. Into secondary heating vessel, add sunflower oil, Olivem 1000 and Oliwax LC.

5. Place vessels with Phase A and Phase B onto burner and heat to 175F/80C.

6. Using low shear propeller agitation pour Phase B into Phase A and mix until mixture is smooth and blended (about 5 minutes).

7. Reduce speed and stir until cool down phase 110F/40C.

8. Add fruit enzyme complex PF and essential oils at the cool down phase and mix.





SIMPLE CREAM CLEANSER WITH BASE CUPUACU CREAM

1. Add 10% surfactant, coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside or

polyglucose/lactylate blend to cupuacu cream base.

2. Add preservative, calculating on the additional amount of surfactant

added to the cream base.

3. Mix well.



3-GRAIN CLEANSER AND EXFOLIANT

6 tablespoons oat flour

2 tablespoons barley flour

1 tablespoon millet flour

1 tablespoon almond meal ¼ -½ teaspoon jojoba beads (optional) 1 tablespoon powdered herb (powdered lavender, chamomile, roses, calendula, sage or thyme) 2-4 drops essential oil

DIRECTIONS TO MAKE Combine all ingredients and mix well. Add to container.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE Pour a quarter size grains into palm of hand or mini bowl. Add water or hydrosol to cleansing grains and make a paste. Gently massage onto face. Rinse off with warm water. This is easy to do in the shower.



GENTLE LOTUS EXFOLIANT Batch Size: 100 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier 1. Kaolin Clay Kaolin 70 grams 70% Detoxifying

Exfoliator Most suppliers

2. Colloidal Oats Avena Sativa Kernel Flour

25 grams 25% Toning Brightening Soothing

FSS

3. Lotus Powder Extract

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract

5 grams 5% Calming FSS

Total 100 grams

100%

PROCEDURE 1. Hand measure or weigh ingredients.

2. Sift and combine and mix well.



BASE MASK: NOURISHING FRUIT MASKS Batch Size: 100 Grams

Cranberry and Rosehips Mask Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier 1. Coconut Milk Powder

Cocos Nucifera Extract

34 grams 34% Emollient Soothing Brightening

2. Fruit Powder (cranberry, strawberry or Kakadu plum)

33 grams 33% LC, Soap Dish, FSS

3. Rosehip Seed Powder

Rosa Canina Seed Powder

33 grams 33% Skin Brightening Antioxidant

MRH


Pumpkin and Calendula Mask Batch Size: 100 Grams Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier 1. Coconut Milk Powder

Cocos Nucifera Extract

25 grams 25% Emollient Soothing Brightening

Amazon

2. Calendula Powder Calendula Officinalis Flower

25 grams 25% Soothing Softening

MRH

3. Pumpkin Fruit Powder or Kakadu Plum Fruit Powder

Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Powder (and) Maltodextrin (and) Zea Mays (Corn) Seed Flour (and) Lecithin

25 grams 25% Brightening Exfoliator

LC, FSS



FSS


PROCEDURE 1. Hand measure or weigh ingredients.

2. Sift ingredients and combine and mix well.



ROTORUA MUD MASK Batch Size: 100 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier 1. Rotorua Montmorillonite 50 grams 50% Detoxifying

Mineral Rich Brightening

FSS

2. Rhassoul Clay or Pink Clay

30 grams 30% Detoxifying Soothing Brightening

MRH, Soap Dish, FNWL



FSS

4. Dried Fruit Pulp Powder

10 grams 10% FSS, LC, FNWL, Soap Dish

Total 100 grams

100%

PROCEDURE: ROTURA MUD MASK 1. Hand measure or weigh ingredients.

2. Sift and combine all ingredients and mix well.



BALANCING FACIAL TONER Batch Size: 100 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier 1. Cranberry or Green Tea Extract (alcohol tincture-replace with any high proof alcohol tincture)


2. Glycerin Glycerin 1 gram 1% Humectant Most Suppliers

3. Aloe Vera Gel Aloe Barbadensis Gel

2 grams 2% Humectant Soothing

MRH


91 grams 91% Diluent

5. Leucidal Liquid SF 4 grams 4% Preservative FSS, LC, TH

Total 100 grams

100%

Note: Essential Wholesale no longer carries any alcohol extracts, replace with an alcohol extract/tincture or grain alcohol.

PROCEDURE Weigh Ingredients Combine ingredients and mix well.

Hand Measurement Batch Size: 4 ounces

1 teaspoon cranberry or green tea extract (or other extract) ½ teaspoon glycerin 1 teaspoon aloe vera gel 1 teaspoon aloe vera 1-2 drops essential oil

4 ounces distilled water 1 teaspoon Leucidal Liquid SF

PROCEDURE Hand Measure Combine ingredients and mix well




MOISTURE MIST Batch Size: 100 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier 1. Aloe Vera Juice (pre-made and preserved)

Aloe Leaf Juice 55 grams 55% Humectant Soother

Most Suppliers

2. Lavender Hydrosol or Another Hydrosol

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Water


FSS

3. Witch Hazel Hamamelis Virginiana Distillate

20 grams 20% Astringent MRH, TH

4. Chamomile Extract Water & Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract

5 grams 5% Calming Soothing

FSS

Total 100 grams

100%

PROCEDURE 1. Weigh ingredients. 2. Combine ingredients and mix well.




FACIAL STEAM HERBS Batch Size: Fills 8 ounce container

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier 1. Calendula Flowers 3

tablespoons 30% MRH

2. Rose Petals 3 tablespoons

30% MRH

3. Lavender Flower Buds

3 tablespoons

30% MRH

4. Elder Flowers 1 tablespoon

10% MRH

Total 100%

PROCEDURE 1. Hand measure herbs. 2. Combine all ingredients and mix.

optional: 2-4 drops essential oils



BASE LIP BALM Batch Size: 100 Grams

Ingredient Trade Name

INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier

1. Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil





10 grams 10% Emollient Shine

Most Suppliers

4. Candelilla Wax Euphorbia Cerifera Wax

20 grams 20% Thickener EW, LC, MC, TH, FSS

Total 100 grams

100%

Flavor: ½ teaspoon Spearmint 12 - 25 drops

Optional: add 1% Vitamin E oil and reduce jojoba oil by 1%



BASE LIP BALM Batch Size: 500 Grams









Most Suppliers




Flavor:1½ tsp. Spearmint 60 – 125 drops




BASE LIP BALM Batch Size: 20 ounces








2 ounces 10% Emollient Shine

Most Suppliers


4 ounces 20% Thickener EW, LC, MC, TH, FSS


Flavor: 2 tsp. Spearmint 72 - 150 drops




PROCEDURE: BASE LIP BALM

1. Add all ingredients into heat safe vessel.

2. Melt wax until crystal clear taking care not to burn oils.

3. Add flavor or essential oils.

4. Pour into containers.



WHIPPED LIP BUTTER Batch Size: 100 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. Apricot Oil

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil


2. Castor Oil

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil


Most Suppliers

3. Shea Butter

Vitellaria Nilotica Fruit Butter

20 grams 20% Emollient Protectant

Most Suppliers

4. Candelilla Wax

Euphorbia Cerifera Wax


5. Vitamin E Oil

Tocopherol 1 gram 1% Antioxidant Most Suppliers






2. Castor Oil



Most Suppliers

3. Shea Butter



Most Suppliers

4. Candelilla Wax



5. Vitamin E Oil

Tocopherol 5 grams 1% Antioxidant Most Suppliers




WHIPPED LIP BUTTER Batch Size: 20 Ounces




2. Castor Oil



Most Suppliers

3. Shea Butter


4 ounces 20% Emollient Protectant

Most Suppliers

4. Candelilla Wax


2.4 ounces 12% Thickener EW, LC, MC, TH, FSS

5. Vitamin E Oil

Tocopherol 0.2 ounce 1% Antioxidant Most Suppliers


PROCEDURE: WHIPPED LIP BUTTER




4. Pour into bowl.

5. Place in a cold-water bath underneath bowl.

6. When jelly like state, beat with a beater.



EXFOLIATING WHIPPED LIP BUTTER Batch Size: 100 grams






Most Suppliers

3. Shea Butter



LC

4. Candelilla Wax



5. Vitamin E Oil

Tocopherol 1 gram 1% Antioxidant Most Suppliers


Sugar 100 grams

Batch Size: 500 grams Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. Apricot Oil





Most Suppliers

3. Shea Butter



LC

4. Candelilla Wax



5. Vitamin E Oil

Tocopherol 5 grams 1% Antioxidant Most Suppliers


Sugar 500 grams

If adding food flavor oil, use approximately 3.5%-4% and subtract this amount from the apricot oil. Use 1-part sugar by weight to 1-part lip base by weight



EXFOLIATING WHIPPED LIP BUTTER Batch Size: 20 Ounces






Most Suppliers

3. Shea Butter


4 ounces 20% Emollient Protectant

LC

4. Candelilla Wax


2.4 ounces 12% Thickener EW, LC, MC, TH, FSS

5. Vitamin E Oil

Tocopherol 0.2 ounce 1% Antioxidant Most Suppliers


Sugar 20 ounces

If adding food flavor oil, use approximately 3.5%-4% and subtract this amount from the apricot oil. Use 1-part sugar by weight to 1-part lip base by weight



PROCEDURE: EXFOLIATING WHIPPED LIP BUTTER


2. Melt wax until crystal clear, taking care not to burn oils.


4. Pour into bowl.

5. Place in a cold-water bath underneath bowl.

6. When jelly like state, beat with a beater.

7. Add sugar and stir with a spoon.



BASE LIP GLOSS Batch Size: 100 Grams

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. Sunflower Oil


88.5 grams 88.5% Emollient Most Suppliers

2. Shea Nilotica



LC

3. Candelilla Wax


1 gram 1% Thickener EW, LC, MC, TH, FSS

Phase B Most Suppliers

4. Tapioca Powder

Tapioca Starch

0.5 gram 0.5% Thickener LC

5. Vitamin E Oil

Tocopherol 0.5 gram 0.5% Antioxidant Most Suppliers

6. Food flavor Oil

3.5 gram 3.5% Flavor Scent

Most Suppliers





BASE LIP GLOSS Batch Size: 1 ounce



0.885 ounce 88.5% Emollient Most Suppliers

2. Shea Nilotica


0.05 ounce 5% Emollient Protectant

LC

3. Candelilla Wax


0.01 ounce 1% Thickener EW, LC, MC, TH, FSS


4. Tapioca Powder

Tapioca Starch

0.005 ounce 0.5% Thickener LC

5. Vitamin E Oil

Tocopherol 0.005 ounce 0.5% Antioxidant Most Suppliers

6. Food flavor Oil

0.035 ounce (1/4 tsp)

3.5% Flavor Scent

Most Suppliers


Total 1 ounce 100%



BASE LIP GLOSS Batch Size: 4 ounces



3.54 ounce 88.5% Emollient Most Suppliers

2. Shea Nilotica



LC

3. Candelilla Wax




4. Tapioca Powder

Tapioca Starch

0.02 ounce 0.5% Thickener EW, MC, Oh Oh Organics

5. Vitamin E Oil


6. Food flavor Oil

0.14 ounce 3.5% Flavor Scent

Most Suppliers


Total 4 ounces 100%



PROCEDURE: BASE LIP GLOSS

1. Combine Phase A into heat safe vessel and melt until crystal clear, being

careful not to burn the oils.

2. Stir Phase B into Phase A and mix well.




LIP PLUMPER Batch Size: 100 Grams




2. Shea Nilotica



LC

3.Candelilla Wax


1 gram 1% Thickener EW, LC, MC, TH

Phase B 4. Organic Dehydrasome Plump

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil and Lecithin and Yeast Extract

10 grams 10% Moisture Lip Plumper

FSS



0.5 gram 0.5% Emollient LC

6. Vitamin E Oil

Tocopherol 0.5 gram 0.5% Antioxidant Most Suppliers

7. Food Flavor Oil

3.5 grams 3.5% Flavor Scent


Phase C 9. Tapioca Powder

Tapioca Starch

0.5 gram 0.5% Thickener EW, MC, Oh Oh Organics




LIP PLUMPER Batch Size: 1 Ounce

Yield: 1 Ounce




2. Shea Nilotica



LC

3.Candelilla Wax





0.1 ounce 10% Moisture Lip Plumper

FSS



0.005 ounce

0.5% Emollient LC

6. Vitamin E Oil

Tocopherol 0.005 ounce

0.5% Antioxidant Most Suppliers

7. Food Flavor Oil

0.035 ounce (1/4 tsp)

3.5% Flavor Scent


9. Tapioca Powder

Tapioca Starch

0.005 ounce

0.5% Thickener EW, MC, Oh Oh Organics

Total 1 ounce 100%



LIP PLUMPER Batch Size: 4 Ounces

Yield: 1 Ounce




2. Shea Nilotica



LC

3.Candelilla Wax





0.4 ounce 10% Moisture Lip Plumper

FSS



0.02 ounce 0.5% Emollient LC

6. Vitamin E Oil


7. Food Flavor Oil

0.14 ounce 3.5% Flavor Scent


9. Tapioca Powder

Tapioca Starch

0.02 ounce 0.5% Thickener EW, MC, Oh Oh Organics

Total 4 ounces 100%



PROCEDURE: LIP PLUMPER

1. Combine Phase A into heat safe vessel and melt until crystal clear, being

careful not to burn the oils.

2. Stir Phase B into Phase A and mix well.


Flavor Blend Suggestion 1 teaspoon Vanilla food flavor oil 3 drops sweet orange (distilled) essential oil 2 drops peppermint essential oil



NAIL TREATMENT OINTMENT

Batch Size: 100 grams

Ingredient Amount by Hand Amount by Scale Grams

%

1. Sunflower Oil 8 ½ tablespoons 85 grams 85%

2. Jojoba Oil (I infuse calendula flowers into it)

1 tablespoon 10 grams 10%

3. Candelilla Wax 1 tablespoon (larger flakes)

5 grams 5%

Total 100 grams 100 grams 100%

Optional: Essential Oils (try organic sweet orange, mandarin or lavender essential oil)

Up to 16 drops add up to 16 drops

Up to ½%

Batch Size: 20 ounces

Ingredient Amount by Hand Amount by Scale Grams

%

1. Sunflower Oil 17 ounces 85%

2. Jojoba Oil (I infuse calendula flowers into it)

2 ounces 10%

3. Candelilla Wax 1 ounce 5%


Optional: Essential Oils (try organic sweet orange, mandarin or lavender essential oil)

Up to 16 drops add up to 16 drops

Up to ½%



PROCEDURE: NAIL TREATMENT OINTMENT

1. Combine all ingredients into a pot (milk frother pitcher works great) and or double boiler system and gently melt oils and wax. Be very careful not to overheat the oils.

2. Make sure all candelilla wax is melted (approximately 195F) and the mixture is clear. Remove pot from heat.

3. Allow mixture to cool to approximately 130F -140F or before the mixture sets up and stir in the essential oils.

4. Pour mixture into containers at approximately 125F and allow to firm.

Tips - Place tubes into a narrow container to hold it upright before pouring mixture into.

- The pot is easier to clean if you wipe the mixture out with paper towel before the mixture firms up inside the pot. Be careful if the pot is still hot.

- Do a spoon test first. Place a small amount of mixture onto a metal spoon, allow to firm and test for firmness. If it is too soft, add more wax, if it is too hard, add more oil.



GLOWING SKIN BALM


Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. Apricot Oil Oryza Sativa

(rice) bran oil 88 grams 88% Emollient LC

2. Pomegranate Sterols

Punica Granatum Sterols


3. Candelilla Wax

Euphorbia Cerifera (candelilla) Wax

6 grams 6% Thickener MC, EW, TH, JED, LC, FSS

4. VegeCide Glyceryl Monocaprylate (and) Glyceryl Monoundecyle-nate

1 gram 1% Preservative ITDF, SOC

Phase B 5. Sea buckthorn Berry Oil


1 gram 1% Emollient LC, MRH


Batch Size: 20 Ounces Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier

Phase A 1. Apricot Oil Oryza Sativa

(rice) bran oil 17.6 ounces 88% Emollient LC

2. Pomegranate Sterols

Punica Granatum Sterols

0.8 ounce 4% Moisturizer FSS

3. Candelilla Wax

Euphorbia Cerifera (candelilla) Wax

1.2 ounces 6% Thickener MC, EW, TH, JED, LC

4. VegeCide Glyceryl Monocaprylate (and) Glyceryl Monoundecyle -nate

0.2 ounce 1% Preservative ITDF

Phase B 5. Seabuckthorn Berry Oil


0.2 ounce 1% Emollient LC, MRH




PROCEDURE: GLOWING SKIN BALM



3. Cool slightly and add essential oils.

4. Pour into container before balm starts setting up.

Essential Oil Blend Suggestion Jasmine Sambuc, Ylang Ylang and Vanilla



THERAPEUTIC BALM


Ingredient Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A

1. Plant Oil or Infused Oil


2. Cocoa Butter

22 grams 22% Skin Smoother Softener

Most Suppliers

3. Candelilla Wax

6 grams 6% Protectant, thickener MC, EW, TH, JED, LC, FSS

Phase B

4.Tamanu Oil 5 grams 5% Emollient, Therapeutic MRH


Batch Size: 20 Ounces

Ingredient Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A

1. Infused Oil 13.4 ounces 67% Emollient Most Suppliers

2. Cocoa Butter

4.4 ounces 22% Skin Smoother Softener

Most Suppliers

3. Candelilla Wax

1.2 ounces 6% Protectant, thickener MC, EW, TH, JED, LC, FSS

Phase B

4.Tamanu Oil 1 ounce 5% Emollient, Therapeutic MRH




PROCEDURE: THERAPEUTIC BALM

1. Melt Phase A in double boiler until barely melted. Do not overheat.

2. Slightly cool and stir in tamanu oil and essential oils. The balm may need to be heated up again if it starts to solidify. Quickly pour into containers.

*Wipe container clean with paper towel before wax sets up.

Essential Oil Blend Suggestions Pain Blend or Nerves Blend



COCONUT CRÈME MOISTURIZING BODY WASH Batch Size: 50 ounces

Ingredient INCI Name Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A


Aqua 26.5 ounces 53% Diluent

2. Xanthan Gum (Soft)


3. GuarCat or GuarSilk

Guar Hydroxypropyltri -monium Chloride

0.25 ounce 0.5% Conditioner ITDF, LC, MC, TH

Phase B

4. Glycerin Glycerin 3 ounces 6% Humectant Most Suppliers

5. Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.25 ounce 0.5% pH Adjuster Most Suppliers

Phase C

6. Polyglucose/ Lactylate Blend

Decyl glucoside and Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

15 ounces 30% Surfactant ITDF, MC, SOC

7. Apricot Oil Prunus armeniaca


Phase D

8. Essential Oil or Food Flavor Oils (coconut food flavor oil)

0.5 fl. ounce (3 tsp.)

1% Scent



2 ounces 4% Preservative LC, FSS, TH




COCONUT CRÈME MOISTURIZING BODY WASH Batch Size: 500 grams



Aqua 265 grams 53% Diluent

2. Xanthan Gum Soft


3. GuarCat or GuarSilk

Guar Hydroxypropyltri -monium Chloride

2.5 grams 0.5% Conditioner ITDF, LC, MC, TH

Phase B


5. Citric Acid Citric Acid 2.5 grams 0.5% pH adjuster Most Suppliers

Phase C


Decyl Glucoside and Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

150 grams 30% Surfactant ITDF, MC, SOC



Phase D

8. Essential Oil or Food Flavor Oil (coconut food flavor oil)

5 ml (approxima tely 160 drops or 1 ½ tsp. plus 10 drops)

1% Scent



20 grams 4% Preservative LC, FSS, TH




PROCEDURE: COCONUT CRÈME MOISTURIZING BODY WASH

Cold Processing Method


Phase A 1. In a bowl, mix together powders; xanthan gum and guar hydroxypropyltri- monium chloride. Lightly sprinkle combined powders slowly into distilled water while continuously stirring with whisk, immersion blender, or mixer until clumps are mixed. Hydrate for 5 minutes, until thick gel forms.

Phase B 2. Add glycerin and citric acid together to Phase A with gentle mixing with stainless steel spoon.

Phase C 3. Combine decyl glucoside and sodium lauroyl lactylate blend, apricot oil, mixing slowly with spoon.

Phase D 4. Add Phase C into water mixture and mix slowly with spoon. Add essential oil or natural food flavor oil and mix well. Add Leucidal Liquid SF and mix well with spoon.

5. Test pH: pH should be around 5.0. Adjust to lower with citric acid.

6. Bottle: Pour into containers.

Note: This is a very mild preservative and the body wash should be used within 6 months. I prefer the preservative gluconolactone and sodium benzoate. (see the Moisturizing Body Wash Formulation)

Use this formulation within 6 months.

Testing pH: test the pH and adjust to the range of pH 5.0. Batch Testing: test for bacteria, yeast and mold



MOISTURIZING BODY WASH BASE: OUNCES




Aqua 12.06 ounces

60.3% Diluent


Gluconolactone and Sodium Benzoate




4. Glycerin Glycerin 1 ounce 5% Humectant Most suppliers

Phase B


Decyl Glucoside and Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

6 ounces 30% Surfactant ITDF, MC, SOC


0.4 ounce 2% Emollient Most suppliers

7. Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.04 ounce 0.2% pH Adjuster Most suppliers


Scent: 1% - 2%

For more moisturization and silky feel and if not adding food flavor oil, add up to 1½ teaspoons plant oil to the body wash.



MOISTURIZING BODY WASH BASE: GRAMS




Aqua 301.5 grams 60.3 % Diluent



7.5 grams 1.5% Preservative ITDF, MC, TH, FSS




Phase B


Decyl glucoside and Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

150 grams 30% Surfactant ITDF, MC, SOC

6. Apricot Oil Prunus armeniaca


7. Citric Acid Citric Acid 1 gram 0.2% pH Adjuster Most suppliers


Scent: 1% - 2%

For more moisturization and silky feel and if not adding food flavor oil, add up to 1½ teaspoons plant oil to the body wash.



PROCEDURE: MOISTURIZING BODY WASH BASE


Weigh All Ingredients

Phase A 1. With high shear mixing, add gluconolactone and sodium benzoate to room temperature water and mix well.

2. Sprinkle xanthan gum into water with whisk and then use high shear mixing for about a minute until mixed well and clumps are dissipated. Hydrate mixture for 5-10 minutes, until gel forms.

3. Add glycerin and mix well with stainless steel spoon or utensil.

Phase B 1. Combine decyl glucoside and sodium lauroyl lactylate blend and apricot oil together and slowly mix together with stainless steel spoon. Try not to create much foam.

2. Option: If scenting formulation add into surfactant mixture and mix well with stainless steel spoon or utensil.

Combine Phase B into Phase A

1. Pour Phase B (surfactant phase) into Phase A (water phase) and gently and thoroughly mix together with a stainless-steel spoon. Try not to create a lot of foam. Add citric acid and gently mix thoroughly.

2. Cover mixture and allow mixture to settle.

Check pH of mixture. The pH should be around 5. If the pH is too high, add a little more citric acid and retest.


It can be adjusted to hold 5% of plant oil. This is a high amount of plant oil in a surfactant system without an emulsifier in the formulation and yet it works in this formulation.




2-IN-1 BODY WASH AND HAND SOAP OUNCES


Ingredient INCI Name Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. Distilled or Deionized Water




0.3 ounce 1.5% Preservative ITDF, MC, TH, FSS



4. Glycerin Glycerin 1 ounce 5% Humectant Most Suppliers

Phase B

5. Decyl Glucoside Decyl Glucoside 4.4 ounces 22% Surfactant ITDF, MC, SOC

6. Natural Surfactant Enhancer

Glyceryl Caprylate Caprate

0.3 ounce 1.5% Emollient ITDF, SOC

7. Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.06 ounce 0.3% pH Adjuster Most Suppliers


Scent: Add 1% - 2%



2-IN-1 BODY WASH AND HAND SOAP GRAMS







7.5 grams 1.5% Preservative ITDF, MC, TH,




Phase B

5. Decyl Glucoside Decyl Glucoside 110 grams 22% Surfactant ITDF, MC, SOC

6. Natural Surfactant Enhancer

Glyceryl Caprylate Caprate

7.5 grams 1.5% Emollient ITDF, SOC

7. Citric Acid 1.5 grams 0.3% pH Adjuster Most Suppliers


Scent: 1% - 2%



PROCEDURE: 2-IN-1 BODY WASH AND HAND SOAP


Weigh All Ingredients

Phase A 1. With high shear mixing, add gluconolactone and sodium benzoate to room temperature water and mix well.

2. Sprinkle xanthan gum into water with whisk and then use high shear mixing for about a minute until mixed well and clumps are dissipated. Hydrate mixture for 5-10 minutes, until gel forms.

3. Add glycerin and mix well with stainless steel spoon or utensil.

Phase B 1. Combine decyl glucoside and surfactant enhancer (or lamesoft) together and slowly mix together with stainless steel spoon or utensil.

2. Option: If scenting formulation add into surfactant mixture.

Combine Phase B into Phase A

1. Pour Phase B (surfactant phase) into Phase A (water phase) and gently

and thoroughly mix together with a stainless-steel spoon. Try not to create a lot of foam. Add citric acid and gently mix thoroughly.

2. Cover mixture and allow mixture to settle.

Check pH of mixture. The pH should be around 5. If the pH is too high, add a little more citric acid and retest.





SOLID STICK DEODORANT Batch Size: 100 grams (fills approximately 1 container)

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier 1. Organic Coconut Oil

Cocos Nucifera 44 grams 44% Emollient Deodorizer

Most Suppliers

2. Arrowroot Powder

Arrowroot powder

5 grams 5% Dryness EW, MR

3. Candelilla Wax

Euphorbia antisyphillitica

22 grams 22% Thickener EW, TH, MC JEdwards, LC Texas Natural Supply FNWL, FSS

4. Cocoa Butter

Theobroma cacao





Suggested Essential Oil Blend Litsea Cubeba and Lemongrass or Litsea Cubeba and Eucalyptus



SOLID STICK DEODORANT Batch Size: 500 grams


Cocos Nucifera 220 grams 44% Emollient Deodorizer

Most Suppliers

2. Arrowroot Powder

Arrowroot powder

25 grams 5% Dryness EW, MR

3. Candelilla Wax


110 grams 22% Thickener EW, TH, MC JEdwards, LC Texas Natural Supply FNWL, FSS

4. Cocoa Butter

Theobroma cacao








SOLID STICK DEODORANT Batch Size: 20 Ounces


Cocos Nucifera 8.8 ounces 44% Emollient Deodorizer

Most Suppliers

2. Arrowroot Powder

Arrowroot powder

1 ounce 5% Dryness EW, MR

3. Candelilla Wax


4.4 ounces 22% Thickener EW, TH, MC JEdwards, LC Texas Natural Supply FNWL, FSS

4. Cocoa Butter

Theobroma cacao








PROCEDURE: SOLID STICK DEODORANT


1. Combine all ingredients into a double boiler and melt together and mix well.

2. Stir in essential oils, up to 1% and mix well.

3. Pour into container and allow mixture to harden without moving the container.



FRESH ROLL-ON CREAM DEODORANT Batch Size: 100 grams








chinensis 4 grams 4% Emollient Most

suppliers 5. Tapioca Starch or Arrowroot Starch

Tapioca Starch 1 gram 1% Dryness EW, MRH

6. Sugar Mulse Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside

3.5 grams 3.5% Emulsifier TH, FSS

7. Zinc Ricinoleate

Zinc Ricinoleate

3 grams 3% Antioxidant MC

Phase C 8. Witch Hazel Hamamelis

Virginiana Distillate

10 grams 10% Deodorizer MRH





FRESH ROLL-ON CREAM DEODORANT Batch Size: 500 grams





6.5 grams 1.3% Preservative ITDF, LC, TH, MC



chinensis 20 grams 4% Emollient Most


Tapioca Starch 5 grams 1% Dryness EW, MRH


17.5 grams 3.5% Emulsifier TH

7. Zinc Ricinoleate

Zinc Ricinoleate

15 grams 3% Antioxidant MC



50 grams 10% Deodorizer MRH





FRESH ROLL-ON CREAM DEODORANT Batch Size: 60 Ounces


Aqua 44.52 ounces

74.2% Diluent



0.78 ounce 1.3% Preservative ITDF, LC, TH, MC



chinensis 2.4 ounces 4% Emollient Most


Tapioca Starch 0.6 ounce 1% Dryness EW, MRH


2.1 ounces 3.5% Emulsifier TH

7. Zinc Ricinoleate

Zinc Ricinoleate

1.8 ounces 3% Antioxidant MC



6 ounces 10% Deodorizer MRH





PROCEDURE: FRESH ROLL-ON CREAM DEODORANT Weigh all ingredients

1. Combine Phase A into secondary heat vessel, mix and heat to 80°C/175°F.

2. Combine Phase B into main heat vessel, mix and heat to 80°C/175°F.

3. Slowly pour Phase A into Phase B and mix until smooth emulsion. 4. Cool to 43°C/110°F - 49°C/120°F and add Phase C.




LIQUID SPRAY DEODORANT Batch Size: 100 Grams




Aqua 23 grams 23% Diluent

2. Lavender Hydrosol Lavender Hydrosol


FSS


4.190 Proof Alcohol 20 grams 20% Preservative Alchemical Organic Alcohol


10 grams 10% Astringent Deodorizing

MRH



ITDF, LC, FSS

8. Essential Oils 1 gram 1%

Total 100 grams

100%




LIQUID SPRAY DEODORANT Batch Size: 500 Grams




Aqua 115 grams

23% Diluent


100 grams

20% Soothing Scent

FSS


4.190 Proof Alcohol 100 grams

20% Preservative Alchemical Organic Alcohol


50 grams 10% Astringent Deodorizing

MRH


7. Propanediol Propanediol 100 grams

20% Moisturizing Agent

ITDF, LC, FSS

8. Essential Oils 5 grams 1%

Total 500 grams

100%




LIQUID SPRAY DEODORANT Batch Size: 20 Ounces




Aqua 4.6 ounces 23% Diluent


4 ounces 20% Soothing Scent

FSS


4.190 Proof Alcohol 4 ounces 20% Preservative Alchemical Organic Alcohol


2 ounces 10% Astringent Deodorizing

MRH

6. Extract 1 ounce 5%

7. Propanediol Propanediol 4 ounces 20% Moisturizing Agent

ITDF, LC, FSS

8. Essential Oils 0.2 ounce 1%



PROCEDURE: LIQUID SPRAY DEODORANT 1. Combine all ingredients and mix well. 2. Pour into containers.



SCENTED SILK BODY POWDER AND DEODORANT Batch Size: 100 Grams


1. Organic Cornstarch Powder

Corn Starch 56 grams 56% Absorbs Moisture Silky Feel

Grocery Store

2. Arrowroot Powder

Maranta Arundinacea

28 grams 28% Absorbs Moisture Silky Feel

Mountain Rose Herbs

3. Tapioca Powder

Tapioca Starch

14 grams 14% Absorbs Moisture Silky Feel

Natural Grocery Store/Bob’s Red Mill

4. Fullers Earth Powder

Solum Fullonum

1 gram 1% Deodorizes Absorbs Moisture

Mountain Rose Herbs

Phase B

5. Essential Oils

1 ml 1% Aromatherapy See suppliers


Suggested Essential Oil Blend Rose Geranium and Sweet Orange



SCENTED SILK BODY POWDER AND DEODORANT Batch Size: 3.59 ounces (fills 4 ounce container)


1. Organic Cornstarch Powder

Corn Starch 2 ounces (1/2 cup)

56% Absorbs Moisture Silky Feel

Grocery Store

2. Arrowroot Powder

Maranta Arundinacea

1 ounce (1/4 cup)


Mountain Rose Herbs

3. Tapioca Powder

Tapioca Starch

0.5 ounce (1/8 cup)


Natural Grocery Store/Bob’s Red Mill

4. Fullers Earth Powder

Solum Fullonum

0.04 ounce (1/2 teaspoon)

1% Deodorizes Absorbs Moisture

Mountain Rose Herbs

Phase B

5. Essential Oils

0.04 fluid ounce (24 drops)

1% Aromatherapy See suppliers

Total 3.59 ounces

100%

Suggested Essential Oil Blend Rose Geranium and Sweet Orange



PROCEDURE: SCENTED SILK BODY POWDER AND DEODORANT

1. Combine all ingredients and sift many times until there are no lumps and the powder feels smooth.

2. Pour into container.

TIP The key to a silky and soft powder is in sifting the powder numerous times. The more you sift the powder the finer and silkier it becomes.



BATH SALTS

BASIC BATH SALTS 1 cup sea salt ½ cup baking soda ¼ - ½ teaspoon essential oil

PROCEDURE Sift baking soda and combine all ingredients together and mix well with a whisk.

SORE MUSCLE SOAK SALTS 2 cups Epsom salt ½ - 1 teaspoon essential oil (try the muscle aches blend) 2 tablespoons powdered mustard seed powder 1 tablespoon powdered oat straw 1 tablespoon dried peppermint or another herb

PINK CLAY BATH SALTS 1 ½ cups sea salt 1 tablespoon dendritic salt ½ teaspoon essential oil (try the rose geranium and sweet orange blend) ¼ teaspoon pink clay 1 tablespoon dried rose petals or other herbs

PROCEDURE 1. Add essential oils to dendritic salt and mix. 2. Add dendritic salt to sea salts. 3. Whisk together. 4. Add clay and whisk.

NATURAL COLOR SALTS ½ cup coarse Himalayan pink salt ½ cup fine sea salt 1 tablespoon dendritic ¼ - ½ teaspoon essential oil essential oils

PROCEDURE Combine all ingredients and mix well with a whisk.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE 1. Add 2 – 4 tablespoons bath salts to bath water (2 tablespoons are the average). 2. Place bath salts containing herbs or coarse salts in an organza or muslin bag and add to the bath water (the bag holds the herbs and the tub won’t be hard to clean out plus coarse salts can be uncomfortable to sit on). 3. Soak for 10-20 minutes. 4. Use body oil or moisturizer after bath as salts can be drying or add plant milk to the bath water with the salts.



FRENCH LAVENDER AND CHAMOMILE BATH SOAK

Batch Size: 8 ounces soothing and relaxing

Part1 ½ cup Sonoma Spa salt or coarse sea salt ½ cup fine sea salt ¼ cup luxury salt (try 1/8 cup European Salt and 1/8 cup Dead sea salt)

Part 2 1 tablespoon dendritic salt ¼ teaspoon dried powdered red grape skin or powdered lavender ¼- ½ teaspoon French lavender and chamomile essential oil blend

Part 3 1 tablespoon dried organic lavender buds 1 tablespoon dried organic chamomile flowers

DIRECTIONS 1. Mix part 1 in a medium size bowl. 2. Mix part 2 in a mini size bowl making sure red grape skin or lavender and essential oils are evenly blended. 3. Combine part 2 into part 1 and mix well. 4. Add part 3. 5. Funnel into bath salt bottle.



CREAMY COCONUT MILK BATH

¼ cup rice milk powder ¾ cup coconut milk powder ¼ teaspoon coconut food flavor in alcohol 10 drops sweet orange essential oil 1 tablespoon dried jasmine flowers 1 tablespoon dried rose petals

PROCEDURE 1. Sift and combine milk powders into bowl and mix with a whisk.

2. Drop scent into powders and mix with a whisk.

3. Add flowers and mix.

4. Funnel into container.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE Add ¼ - ½ cup milk bath and disperse into tub of water.



HERBAL BATH TEA SOAK An herbal bath tea soak is made with dried or fresh herbs. Bath tea can be customized with blends of herbs for rest, renewal and detoxification.

A mixture of dried herbs can be placed in a tea bag, muslin bag or metal ball tea strainer. Add the tea bag into the bath water to soak. Use ½ cup dried herbs per tea bag. For a more therapeutic effect, make a strong tea on the stove and pour the tea directly into your bath water being careful that it is not too hot.

Fresh Herbal Bath Tea Large pot of water 2-3 cups fresh herbs or 1-2 cups dried herbs

Bring water to a boil, turn off stove, add herbs, cover and steep for 15-20 minutes. Strain herbs out with a metal strainer and add tea to bath water. Test the bath temperature before getting into the bath water.

HERBAL BATH TEA BAG The tea bag is perfect to package and easy to use.

1. Use a natural, unbleached or oxygen bleached heat seal tea bags, size

large approximately 4” x 5”. 2. Place a mixture of dried herbs, ½ cup (8 tbsp) into a tea bag. 3. Seal tea bag with a hot iron or curling iron. A hot curling iron works

great; insert the open side of the tea bag and seal. If using an iron, place tea bag on ironing board and press the open side of the bag being careful to keep the iron slightly on the edge.

4. Place tea bag into a plastic sleeve bag or waxed paper bag. 5. Place cover/label around tea bag, punch holes at the top and tie with

ribbon.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE Two methods:

1. Make the herbal tea on the stove and add to bath water. Boil a large pot of water. Turn heat off. Add tea bag and let steep for 10 minutes. Add tea to bath water being careful with hot tea. Always check bath water temperature before getting in.

2. Directly place tea bag in bath water while you soak. Just Be Bath Tea

2 parts or 2 tablespoons dried calendula flowers 2 parts or 2 tablespoons dried lavender flowers 2 parts or 2 tablespoons dried rose petals 1 part or 1 tablespoon chamomile flowers 1 part or 1 tablespoon dried lemon verbena

©2012-2016 Joan Morais 200 www.JoanMorais.com

SMOOTH SKIN SOLID BODY SCRUB

SOLID SCRUB BASIC RECIPE makes 24 mini cups, 1 ounce each by weight

6 ounces cocoa butter 18 ounces fine sea salt (approximately 2- 2½ measuring cups) 1½ - 2 teaspoons essential oil

SMOOTH SKIN SOLID BODY SCRUB use basic recipe add 1 teaspoon powdered seaweed (kelp or bladderwrack) into one cup salt 1½ teaspoons of essential oil blend

Smooth Skin Essential Oil Blend (anti-cellulite blend) ½ teaspoon pink grapefruit essential oil ½ teaspoon lavender or lavandin essential oil ½ teaspoon cypress essential oil or

Refreshing Essential Oil Blend 1 teaspoon lime essential oil ½ teaspoon tangerine essential oil 7 drops lavender essential oil



PROCEDURE: SMOOTH SKIN SOLID BODY SCRUB

1. Weigh or measure cocoa butter into large pot or double boiler.

2. Melt cocoa butter on very low heat.

3. Weigh or measure salt.

4. Remove cocoa butter from heat as soon as it is just melted, leave in large pot or pour into a larger stainless steel bowl.

5. Cool slightly and add essential oils.

6. Add about ¾ of the salt and stir, if mixture still needs more salt add a small

amount of the remainder until it is the right consistency, not too dry and with a little oil left on top of mixture.

7. Spoon into molds.

8. Place molds into freezer to set up for about 15 minutes or allow to set up at

room temperature for several hours.

9. Turn molds over and pop out solid scrubs.

10. Wrap in candy foil liners with parchment paper liner, size 4x4 or 6x6.

These scrubs are great. They are not as messy and they are easy to use.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE Massage scrub over wet skin in gentle circular motions to exfoliate skin and moisturize the skin. Rinse well and pat skin dry.

Caution: Tub or shower may be slippery after use.

Packaging: Candy Foils Label: 1.5” circle fits the widest part Molds: silicone mold: 24 cup mini muffin pan. (Brand I have: HIC-Harold Import Co. available on Amazon.com)



BASIC SALT SCRUB RECIPE ½ cup carrier oil ¾ cup to 1 cup of salts

Combine and mix well.

COCONUT SALT SCRUB Container: 8-ounce low profile plastic jar Color: white Texture: soft, covered in oil

¾ cup Pacific sea salt 2 tablespoons solid extra virgin coconut oil 5 tablespoons sunflower oil 2 drops Vitamin E 1/8 teaspoon coconut food flavor oil

Options: 1. Add essential oils 1 drop ylang ylang or 1 drop vanilla or 1 drop jasmine

2. Add 1% natural preservative Vegecide (Glyceryl Monocaprylate (and) Glyceryl Monoundecylenate)

PROCEDURE 1. Measure salt into bowl 2. Melt coconut oil 3. Add sunflower oil to coconut oil 4. Add Vitamin E oil 5. Add to salt and mix well 6. Add scent and mix 7. Add to container

©2016-2020 Joan Morais 203

SKIN BRIGHTENING SUGAR SCRUB MANGO & SWEET ORANGE SUGAR SCRUB

Container: 4-ounce PET clear low-profile heavy wall plastic jar Color: orange Texture: no oil on top

2 tablespoons grapeseed oil 2 tablespoons sunflower oil 2 drops Vitamin E or 1 drop Rosemary CO2 12 drops sweet orange essential oil

¼ teaspoon powdered annatto seed ½ cup organic cane sugar

Option Add 1% natural preservative Vegecide (Glyceryl Monocaprylate (and) Glyceryl Monoundecylenate)

PROCEDURE Combine all ingredients and mix well.

©2016 - 2020 Joan Morais

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STRAWBERRY COCONUT CREAM SUGAR SCRUB Batch Size: 100 Grams

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Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. Coconut Oil 8 grams 8% Most

Suppliers

2. Shea Nilotica 4 grams 4% LC

3. Sunflower Oil 6 grams 6% Most Suppliers

4. Vegecide Glyceryl Monocaprylate (and) Glyceryl Monoundecylenate

1 gram 1% ITDF, SOC

Phase B 5. Strawberry Food Flavor Oil

¼ teaspoon strawberry food flavor oil

6. Strawberry Pulp Powder

1 teaspoon

7. Coconut Milk Powder

1 tablespoon Amazon

Phase C 8. Organic Sugar 80 grams 80% Store Totals 100 grams 100% 9. Blueberry, kiwi or dark colored seeds (optional)

¼ teaspoon LC


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STRAWBERRY COCONUT CREAM SUGAR SCRUB Batch Size: 5 ounces

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Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. Coconut Oil 0.4 ounce

(1 tablespoon) 8% Most

Suppliers

2. Shea Nilotica 0.2 ounce (1 teaspoon)

4% LC

3. Sunflower Oil 0.3 ounce (1 tablespoon)

6% Most Suppliers

4. Vegecide Glyceryl Monocaprylate (and) Glyceryl Monoundecylenate

0.05 ounces 1% ITDF, SOC

Phase B 5. Strawberry Food Flavor Oil

¼ teaspoon strawberry food flavor oil

6. Strawberry Pulp Powder

1 teaspoon

7. Coconut Milk Powder

1 tablespoon Amazon

Phase C 8. Organic Sugar 4 ounces

(1/2 cup) 80% Store

Totals 5 ounces 100% 9. Blueberry, kiwi or dark colored seeds (optional)

1 teaspoon LC


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PROCEDURE: STRAWBERRY COCONUT CREAM SUGAR SCRUB

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1. In heat safe vessel, add Phase A ingredients and melt.

2. After just melted, add Phase B ingredients.

3. Cool mixture.

4. Add sugar and seeds to cooled mixture and mix well.


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RADIANT SKIN BODY SCRUB Batch Size: 100 grams (without salt) makes approximately 168 grams with salt

207

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. Virgin Coconut Oil (solid) or Fractionated Coconut Oil (liquid)

cocos nucifera 40 grams 40% Emollient Most Suppliers

2. Shea Butter butyrospermum parkii


3. Apricot Oil and/or Sunflower Oil

prunus armeniaca/ helianthus annus


4. Cetyl Alcohol cetyl alcohol 21 grams 21% Thickener LC, TH, ITDF

5. Eco Mulse or NatraMulse or RitaMulseSCG

glyceryl stearate (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) sodium stearoyl lactylate

3 grams 3% Emulsifier LC, TH, ITDF, FSS

6. Fruit Pulp Powder 2.5 grams 2.5% Exfoliant LC Phase B 7. Decyl Glucoside decyl glucoside 6 grams 6% Surfactant EW, ITDF,

SOC, MC 8. Vitamin E Oil tocopherol 0.3 gram 0.3% Antioxidant FNWL,

MR 9. Rosemary Antioxidant CO2

helianthus annuus seed oil (and) Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

0.2 gram (2 drops)

0.2% Antioxidant FNWL, MR, TH, EW

10. Essential Oils 2 grams 2% Aromatherapy

Total 100 grams 100% Phase C 11. Sea Salt: (note: you may want to add more salt)

sodium chloride 1pt salt: 1pt yield 100 grams

Exfoliant Grocery Store bins

12. Seeds ¼ teaspoon Exfoliant LC


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RADIANT SKIN BODY SCRUB Batch Size: 50 ounces (without salt) makes approximately 80 ounces with salt

208

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier Phase A 1. Virgin Coconut Oil (solid) or Fractionated Coconut Oil (liquid)

cocos nucifera 20 ounces 40% Emollient Most Suppliers

2. Shea Butter butyrospermum parkii


3. Apricot Oil and/or Sunflower Oil

prunus armeniaca/ helianthus annus


4. Cetyl Alcohol cetyl alcohol 10.5 ounces 21% Thickener LC, TH, ITDF

5. Eco Mulse or NatraMulse or RitaMulse SCG

glyceryl stearate (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) sodium stearoyl lactylate

1.5 ounces 3% Emulsifier LC, TH, ITDF, FSS

6. Fruit Pulp Powder 1.25 ounces 2.5% Exfoliant LC Phase B 7. Decyl Glucoside decyl glucoside 3 ounces 6% Surfactant EW, ITDF,

SOC, MC 8. Vitamin E Oil Tocopherol 0.15 ounce 0.3% Antioxidant FNWL,

MR 9. Rosemary Antioxidant CO2

helianthus annuus seed oil (and) Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

0.1 ounce 0.2% Antioxidant FNWL, MR, TH, EW

10. Essential Oils 1 fl ounce (2 tbsp)

2% Aromatherapy

Total 50 ounces 100% Phase C 11. Sea Salt (note: you may want to add more salt)

sodium chloride 1pt salt: 1pt yield 50 ounces

Exfoliant Grocery Store bins

Seeds 4 teaspoons Exfoliant LC


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PROCEDURE: RADIANT SKIN BODY SCRUB Weigh all ingredients

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1. Place Phase A into double boiler and barely melt to liquid state.

2. Combine Phase B into bowl and gently mix by hand after each addition. Add to Phase A stirring by hand.

3. Place bowl with scrub into the freezer for 5-20 minutes or place bowl into

cold water bath (ice and water) and bring back to a solid jelly-like state.

4. Scrape sides with spatulas and mix with hand mixer or stand mixer until well combined.

5. Mix in Phase C, sea salt, by hand and stir well.


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BATH FIZZIES

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TIPS -It’s best to make fizzies on a dry day with little moisture/humidity in the air. -In areas with a lot of moisture/humidity in the air, try cutting back on the citric acid by half of the amount listed in the recipes. -To extend the shelf life of the plant oils add 1 drop rosemary antioxidant or 5 drops vitamin E oil. -Be careful of colorants used in bathtubs as they can stain the tub. Test your fizzies first. -Don’t put too many loose herbs in the fizzy as the herbs will make a mess in the tub and need to be cleaned out. -Cut plastic cavity molds into separate molds so they are easier to fill. Example: if there are 6 plastic molds on one sheet, cut each one apart to six separate molds. -Witch hazel works best over water to moisten the bath fizzies. Witch hazel dries quicker and prevents early fizzing of the mixture.

TROUBLE SHOOTING Mixture is not holding together: -Mixture may be too dry and need more water or witch hazel sprayed into the mixture. -May need to add more mixture to the molds and press more firmly.

Cracks -May be too much humidity in the air. -May be drying too fast.

HOW TO USE Fill bathtub with warm water and toss bath fizzy into water. Enjoy watching the explosion and release of aroma into the bath water.

BASIC BATH FIZZY RECIPE This basic recipe is made up of citric acid and baking soda. It produces a firm fizzy but it can be drying to the skin. I prefer to add butters or oils to bath fizzies to soften and moisturize the skin.

Makes 5 medium balls 1 cup citric acid (8 ounces) 2 cups baking soda (16 ounces) ½ -1 teaspoon essential oil or food flavor oil Distilled water or witch hazel or alcohol (vodka, everclear, 190 proof alcohol) In separate containers, combine dry ingredients and combine wet ingredients in separate. Slowly pour wet ingredients into dry ingredients while mixing at the same time. Don’t over saturate, allow to hydrate for a few seconds. *Alcohol works the best to moisten the dry ingredients as it evaporates quickly.


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BASIC COCOA BUTTER BATH FIZZY

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This is my favorite basic recipe. It is simple and easy to make. The cocoa butter moisturizes and softens the skin. It has a long shelf life.

Makes 5 medium balls 1 cup citric acid (8 ounces) 2 cups baking soda (16 ounces) 1 teaspoon melted cocoa butter 1 teaspoon natural color clay ½ -1 teaspoon essential oil or food flavor oil

PINK GRAPEFRUIT BATH FIZZY Makes 5 medium fizzy balls 1 cup citric acid (8 ounces) 2 cups baking soda (16 ounces) 1 teaspoon pink clay 1 teaspoon melted cocoa butter 1 teaspoon pink grapefruit essential oil or (¼ teaspoon rose geranium essential oil and ½ teaspoon grapefruit essential oil)

PROCEDURE 1. Sift citric acid, baking soda and pink clay into bowl.

2. Melt cocoa butter.

3. Make a well in the center of the citric acid and baking soda and add cocoa butter and essential oils into well.

4. Mix together.

5. Mist with witch hazel and press mixture into mold.

6. Set bath fizzy on soft surface on top of wax paper.

Options: 1. Add dried rose petals or other dried herbs into mixture or the mold before adding fizzy mixture. 2. Add powdered plant milk (coconut, rice or soy) 3. Add colloidal oats or oat flour

Simple Scent Blends Chamomile and Lavandin 6 drops Roman chamomile ¾ teaspoon lavandin

Bergamot and Rose Geranium ¼ teaspoon bergamot ½ teaspoon rose geranium


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SILKY SOFT SKIN BODY OIL Batch Size: 100 grams

212


1. Base Oil Sunflower Oil or Rice Bran Oil or Avocado Oil or Apricot Oil


Phase B

2. Luxury Oil (Argan Oil)


Phase C

3. Essential Oils

2 grams 2% Aromatherapy Most Suppliers


PROCEDURE: SILKY AND SOFT SKIN BODY OIL 1. Add base oil into bottle.

2. Add luxury oil into bottle.

3. Add essential oils to bottle starting with base notes and ending with top

notes or essential oil blend.

4. Cap bottle and tap bottle into palm of hand to blend.


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SILKY SOFT SKIN BODY OIL Batch Size: 1 ounce

213


1. Base Oil Sunflower Oil or Rice Bran Oil or Avocado Oil or Apricot Oil

0.88 ounce (2 tablespoons)


Phase B

2. Luxury Oil (Argan Oil)

0.1 ounce (1 teaspoon)


Phase C

3. Essential Oils

0.02 fluid ounce (12 drops)

2% Aromatherapy

Total 1 ounce 100%

PROCEDURE: SILKY AND SOFT SKIN BODY OIL 1. Add base oil into bottle.

2. Add luxury oil into bottle.

3. Add essential oils to bottle starting with base notes and ending with top

notes or essential oil blend.

4. Cap bottle and tap bottle into palm of hand to blend.


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ARNICA MASSAGE OIL Batch Size: 100 Grams

214

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier 1. Apricot Oil 45 grams 45% Emollient Most

Suppliers 2. Almond Oil 25 grams 25% Emollient Most

Suppliers

3. Avocado Oil 25 grams 25% Emollient Most Suppliers

4. Arnica Oil Extract 4 grams 4% Emollient FSS

5. Vitamin E Oil 1 gram 1% Antioxidant Most Suppliers

Total 100 Grams 100%


Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier 1. Apricot Oil 4.5

ounces 45% Emollient Most

Suppliers 2. Almond Oil 2.5

ounces 25% Emollient Most

Suppliers

3. Avocado Oil 2.5 ounces


4. Arnica Oil Extract 0.4 ounces

4% Emollient FSS

5. Vitamin E Oil 0.1 ounce 1% Antioxidant Most Suppliers


PROCEDURE 1. Weigh or measure and combine and mix all ingredients

2. Add Sore Muscle Essential Oil Blend


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BASE MASSAGE OIL AND SENSUAL MASSAGE OIL Batch Size: 100 Grams

215

Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier 1. Apricot Oil 40 grams 40% Emollient Most

Suppliers

2. Sunflower Oil 30 grams 30% Emollient Most Suppliers

3. Sesame Oil 20 grams 20% Emollient Most Suppliers

4. Argan Oil 10 grams 10% Emollient Most Suppliers



Ingredient INCI Amount % Purpose Supplier 1. Apricot Oil 4 ounces 40% Emollient Most

Suppliers

2. Sunflower Oil 3 ounces 30% Emollient Most Suppliers

3. Sesame Oil 2 ounces 20% Emollient Most Suppliers

4. Argan Oil 1 ounce 10% Emollient Most Suppliers


PROCEDURE 1. Weigh and combine and mix all ingredients

2. Add Sensuous Essential Oil Blend


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GEM ESSENCES

216

Gem essences use the energy of the mineral also called precious stone, crystal, or gem. Everything in the universe is energy and holds a unique form of energy.

Precious stones were used in most ancient cultures for healing purposes; Native American Indians, African Tribes, Aztecs, Australian Aborigines, The Celts, Egypt, The Mayans, The Romans, The Scots, Tibetan Buddhists and more. The bible refers to crystals several hundred times. Saint Hildegard of Bingen used precious stones to heal others. In the middle ages popes and kings used plants and stones to heal. Sometimes the stones would be placed in cooking soups for the person in need.

Quartz is used in watches (Rolex), clocks and radios as a transmitter and receiver, it generates a charge.

GEM ESSENCES ALSO KNOWN AS PRECIOUS STONES FOR SKIN Agate is used for skin disorders. It is balancing, grounding, and stabilizing.

Agate, Blue Lace cools and calms. Use for reactive skin and skin disorders. In ancient times, blue lace agate was used in cooking such as soups and drinking water to rid illness. It offers peace of mind and wellness.

Alexandrite is regenerative.

Ametrine brightens skin.

Apophyllite helps to regenerate skin.

Chlorite use for brown spots, hyperpigmentation and skin growths.

Citrine is a variety of quartz but it does not hold energy and does not need to be cleansed. Other stones can be placed on citrine to cleanse them. Citrine is balancing, cleansing and regenerating. Use to balance sebum.

Flourite helps to regenerate skin, helps with nerve pain; shingles, heal wounds and skin, soften blemishes and wrinkles.

Herkimer Diamond energizes, promotes creativity, your potential and helps to gently release. Combine Herkimer diamond and citrine in an elixir or gem essence to help lift fatigue and negativity.

Moonstone soothes and stimulates. It represents new beginnings, cycles and intuition like the moon. Use for skin and hair and skin disorders.

Quartz, Clear is one of the most powerful stones; it takes on energy, stores energy, releases energy and regulates energy. It must be used “for the good of all”. Clear Quartz boosts the energy of whatever it is used for. Use for any skin condition and rejuvenating.


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Quartz, Rose promotes clear skin, soft complexion and reduction of wrinkles. Rose quartz is all about love.

Selenite, Green helps to reduce the signs of aged skin.

White Topaz helps to reverse aging of the skin.

CHOOSING A CRYSTAL, PRECIOUS STONE Let the crystal, precious stone choose you. Go into a rock shop and go to the crystal/precious stone that you are drawn to and interested. Many times, you may have a particular stone you are looking for and another calls your attention.

HOW TO MAKE GEM ESSENCES 1. Choose the crystal, precious stone.

2. Cleanse the crystal.

3. Set an intention; state the purpose of the precious stone.

4. Fill a glass bowl or jar with exceptional distilled water.

5. Add the crystal to the water but don’t touch the crystal. You don’t want to put your energy on the crystal.

6. Place the bowl with the crystal in the sun for 1-24 hours (use your intuition when it is done).

7. Strain water if necessary, with unbleached coffee filter.

8. To preserve: Add 1-part vodka to 1-part gem essence. Example: 1 ounce water to 1 ounce vodka.

9. Bottle essence in amber or blue cobalt glass bottle with dropper.

Note:

1. If using moonstone, infuse at night. A good time is at the new

moon or full moon. 2. If stone can be broken down by water, place stone in a small bowl

and insert in the larger bowl with the water. 3. Apple cider vinegar and glycerin can be used in place of alcohol

but at least 70% must be used to effectively preserve the essence. 4. Charge the distilled water with citrine.


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FLOWER ESSENCES

218

“Food nourishes the body, but flowers heal the soul.” -old proverb

Flower essences have been used for a long time in indigenous cultures. Dr. Bach (1886-1936) is the pioneer that brought the recognition of flower essences into modern times. He wrote a book Heal Thyself in 1931. He believed there are more gentle methods for healing. One of his patients, a child, was sick and traditional methods were not working for this child. Dr. Bach used flower essences on her and she became well. Dr. Bach created 38

flower essences that are still highly used today. The 38th flower essence is Rescue Remedy Flower, a synergy of flowers to use in stressful situations, emergencies and trauma.

Flower essences work on a vibrational level and address the psychological and emotional aspects of the body and mind. They help to balance the emotions Flower essences are gentle and do not interfere with any medications or treatments since they work on a subtle energetic level matching the vibration of the well-being needed for the person to the vibration of the flower. Flower essences are safe for babies, children, elders and adults.

There are more flower essences made now besides Bach Flower Essences. Some are available at a natural grocery store. Some other flower essences are Alaskan flower essences, Australian Bush flower essences, Hawaiian flower essences, Santa Barbara, CA flower essences plus more.

To learn how to make your own flower essences, it is similar to making gem essences but has a few different steps. The flower and inside of the bowl is never touched by your hands to prevent your energy to infuse into the water. Usually flower essences are prepared in nature, where the flower exists. Some people cut the flower and others believe the flower should not be cut and left in nature. To cut the flower depends on the abundance and the rarity of the flower. Using thongs or tweezers, the flower is set in a clean clear glass bowl filled with distilled water. The flower is held under the water by a heavy stick. Or the flower is cut and the petals may or may not be removed. The flower is left in the water for a few hours to capture the sun and infuse the sun and flower into the water. This water is preserved with brandy or vodka and is called the mother water. It is a concentrate. After returning home, the concentrate is then diluted with more distilled water and packaged in clean small bottles.

For further information on flower essences and how to make flower essences, refer to The Complete Book of Flower Essences by Shonda Pallasdowney, Bliss and Blessings by Star Riparetti (www.staressences.com) and the Flower Essence Society.


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FLOWERS ESSENCES FOR THE SKIN

219

Calendula softens and calms.

Dandelion comforts the face, tones and reduces wrinkles and acne.

Lotus is rejuvenating.

Orchid is about natural beauty and the wonders of the skin.

Orange Blossom brightens and uplifts, happy skin.

Rose brings love and harmony to the skin.

ROOM SPRAYS AND BODY MISTS Adding essential oils, hydrosols, flower essences and gem essences into a room spray or body mist can be used to uplift a mood, boost immunity and promote balance and peacefulness.

Gentle room sprays can be used for babies, children and elders with careful consideration to essential oils used and the amounts, refer to guidelines for babies, children and elders.

AROMATHERAPY ROOM SPRAY 4 ounces water (hydrosol can be added in this amount) 20-40 drops essential oil (depending on the essential oil) 28 drops flower or gem essence

Add all ingredients into bottle with atomizer.


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AROMATHERAPY BODY MIST

220

Body mist is excellent to lightly scent the body and to uplift, calm or energize.

Yield 2 ounces Container: Amber or Cobalt Boston Round Glass 2-ounce Bottle

1. Add 1/8 teaspoon caprylyl capryl glucoside to container. 2. Add 6-12 drops essential oil into container. and mix well. 3. Add 2 ounces distilled water and/or hydrosol into container. 4. Add 7-14 drops gem/flower essences and infuse a positive

intention. (optional) 5. Add 4% (1/2 teaspoon) Leucidal Liquid SF. 6. Mix well. 7. Pour into bottle.

Yield 4 ounces Container: 4-ounce plastic PET bottle

1. Add ¼ teaspoon caprylyl capryl glucoside to container. 2. Add 24-48 drops essential oil into container and mix well. 3. Add 4 ounces distilled water and/or hydrosol to container. 4. Add 14-28 drops gem/flower essences and infuse a positive

intention. (optional) 5. Add 4% (1 teaspoon) Leucidal Liquid SF. 6. Mix well. 7. Pour into bottle.


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SCENT DEVELOPMENT AND NATURAL PERFUME Natural scents are made from essential oils and floral waters derived from nature. Essential oils are not only used for their fragrance but also for their therapeutic benefits known as aromatherapy. A body care product scented naturally smells wonderful and promotes vibrant skin.

Our Sense of Smell Our sense of smell is our strongest sense and has a powerful impact on our lives. We do not use our sense of smell as much as we used to. People used to rely on their sense of smell to know if food and plants were safe to eat and to warn them of danger. Smell is directly connected to the memory area, the limbic system, in our brain. Memories of scents are deeply imbedded in our unconscious. Scent can remind us of memories of happiness, sadness and other emotions depending on the experience and the scents present at that time. The smell of freshly home baked cookies can bring back happy memories in the kitchen with a loved one and bring comfort. A bad experience with the scent of a particular tree in the air can unconsciously trigger a traumatic response. The smell of a burning pan on the stove left unattended alerts us to danger.

We can use scents in so many ways to enhance our environment and our lives. We can create an aroma to instill calmness and peacefulness or invigoration. We can use scents to uplift our mood, fall asleep, wake up and help us to remember while studying.

Train Your Sense of Smell An expert perfumer is trained by memory to recognize thousands of different scents. The brain remembers about 10,000 scents.

You can train your mind to remember the scents. When you peel an orange, smell the peel and tell yourself this is orange peel, smell the orange leaf and tell yourself this is orange leaf, smell the orange blossom and tell yourself this is orange blossom. See if you can bring the scents up by memory without having the scent in front of you. An orange is easy to picture in the mind but can be hard to bring the scent in the mind. Some people do this easily and others it is hard for them.


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NATURAL PERFUME Natural Perfume is an art like making a fine wine, music or a painting. Our five senses taste wine, hear music, see a painting and smell perfume. Natural perfume is made from flowers, grasses, citrus peels, leaves, twigs, resins, bark, and roots.

Creating Scents and Blending Essential oils are classified by their volatility, how quickly they evaporate. Some essential oils evaporate faster than others. Citrus evaporate quickly, orange, lime and bergamot.

Septimus Piesse, a 19th century perfumer and chemist created a system for perfumes modeled after a musical scale. Another perfumer, Poucher, expanded on this system years later grouping scents according to their evaporation rate under top, middle and base notes.

Blending perfume is like composing music. Essential oils are classified as Top, Middle or Base Notes. When blending perfume, you are making chords similar music with the high, middle and base notes that complement each other. The depth of an essential oil depends on its volatility or tenacity, how long before it diffuses into the air or stays on the skin.

Beginning Perfume Blending An easier way to learn and make natural perfume is to choose two essential oils you really like. They can be top, middle or base notes. Build on these two scents using other notes to enhance and work together with your two favorite notes. Test the scent by holding a perfume strip with each note on it, hold the strips together and smell the two notes and see if you like the combination of these two scents.

Fixatives Fixatives help perfume last longer, the scent stays on the skin longer. Base notes help to “fix” a perfume and make it last longer, amber, benzoin, vanilla and even castor oil. To prefix a vanilla base scent that you can use in many perfumes, infuse a vanilla bean (slice the bean open) and soak the bean in oil or alcohol for one month and then strain out the vanilla bean. I use jojoba oil and use this vanilla jojoba oil in many scent blends.

Accord Blends Accord blends are synergistic blends of essential oils that can be used building a perfume. An example of an accord blend is a blend of ylang ylang, cardamom and vanilla.


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Accessory Notes Accessory notes are powerful and potent. They can boost and freshen up a blend. Add only one drop of accessory note at a time to a blend containing six to nine drops essential oil. Some accessory notes are cinnamon, clove, petitgrain, ginger, patchouli, black pepper, rosemary and litsea cubeba. Dilution of Strong Scent Essential Oils A great way to use strong scent essential oils, absolutes and concretes is to dilute them in a carrier oil or alcohol. These diluted scents can easily be added while building a perfume blend. If the strong scent is not diluted, it can over power the entire blend. Some strong scents are jasmine, vetiver, patchouli, rose, neroli and chamomile. To dilute the strong essential oil, absolute or concrete use a ratio of 1:10

Examples of 1:10 ratio: - 1 drop strong scent essential oil to 10 drops alcohol or oil - ¼ teaspoon strong scent essential oil to 2½ teaspoons alcohol or oil -1 teaspoon strong scent essential oil to 10 teaspoons alcohol or oil

Natural Scents Evolve Natural scents take time to blend together and evolve. Natural perfumes should age for about one month.

General Rule of Thumb - 10 ml = 40 drops essential oil - Perfume generally contains 20-25% essential oil - For oil or alcohol perfumes an even amount of top, middle and base notes can be used - For solid perfumes, use more top notes over middle and base notes. - Accessory Note in Solid Perfume: 1 drop accessory note to 6 drops essential oil - Accessory Note in Liquid Perfume: 1 drop accessory note to 9 drops essential oil

Abbreviations on the following charts: A = Accessory Note S = Strong Note


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Fragrance Notes Balsam: benzoin, cistus, frankincense, labdanum, myrrh, peru balsam, styrax, vanilla Citrus: bergamot, grapefruit, lemon, lemon-verbena, lime, litsea cubeba, mandarin, petitgrain, bitter orange, blood orange, sweet orange, tangerine Earthy: carrot seed, patchouli, vetiver Floral: jasmine, lavender absolute, linden blossom, lotus, mimosa, neroli, orange flower, osmanthus, rose, rose geranium, tuberose, violet leaf, ylang ylang Fruity: cape chamomile, Roman chamomile Herbal: angelica root, anise, basil, lavender, rosemary, tarragon Marine: choya, seaweed Minty: peppermint, spearmint Spicy: bay leaf, black pepper, cardamom, cilantro, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, ginger, nutmeg Woody: fir, cedarwood, cypress, rosewood, sandalwood

Copyright 2016 - 2020 by Joan Morais

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Feminine Scents Feminine scents are generally floral, spicy, oriental and fruity. Here are some scents used in feminine scent blends, all floral (especially rose, jasmine, rose geranium, ylang ylang), citrus and spices.

Masculine Scents Masculine scents are generally earthy, clean, woody, forest, herbal, citrus and spice. Here are some scents used in masculine scent blends, bergamot, grapefruit, sweet orange, bay leaf, sage, patchouli, rosemary, sandalwood, vetiver, cedarwood, cypress, cinnamon, clove and black pepper.

Fragrance Strengths (reference Mandy Aftel) Eau Cologne: 2%-4% (8-15 drops per 10 ml jojoba oil or alcohol) Eau de Toilette: 4%-8% (15-30 drops per 10 ml jojoba oil or alcohol) Eau de Perfume: 8%-15% (30-60 drops per 10 ml jojoba oil or alcohol) Perfume: 15%-30% (60-120 drops per 10 ml jojoba oil or alcohol)

Applying Perfume Apply perfume behind the ears, on the temples, on the wrists and or the inside of the elbow. CHART: TOP NOTES, MIDDLE NOTES, BASE NOTES The chart on top, middle and base notes below is for blending essential oils for skin care and natural perfume. Each essential oil has listed other essential oils that blend well with it. There are other essential oils that also blend, not just the ones I have listed. If you want to experiment with an essential oil not on the list do so. I include citronella in the chart. I don’t use it in skin care or natural perfume but it can be used in soap and candles. Many notes can be a top and a middle note. This is also with middle notes and base notes being part of each note.

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TOP NOTES Top notes also called head notes, they reach our sense of smell first and they quickly dissipate within 15 to 30 minutes. Top notes are light in color and smell sharper and lighter. Top notes are either hot or cold but never warm. Top notes are herbs, spices, citruses and essential oils. Label top notes with a yellow round sticker.

Properties Blends well with

Anise Hyssop is spicy, sweet, warming and stimulating. It has a licorice scent. S

Clove, lavender, lavandin, lime, sweet orange, pine, rose

Basil is uplifting, green, sweet herbaceous and anise-like. S

Bergamot, black pepper, cedarwood, citrus, clary sage, coriander, cypress, fennel geranium, ginger, jasmine, juniper, lime, niaouli, sweet orange, palmarosa, pine, rosemary, sage, tea tree, thyme

Bergamot is floral, citrus, fruity, crisp, warm and used in earl grey tea. It is light, beautiful, easy, balancing, uplifting and rejuvenating. It helps to create a more carefree feeling. Store in the refrigerator and use within 3 months. Caution: Bergamot is phototoxic. Bergamot FCF is not phototoxic.

Everything, especially florals, basil, black pepper, chamomile, citrus, clary sage, coriander, cypress, elemi, frankincense, geranium, ginger, helichrysum, jasmine, juniper, lavandin, lavender, lemon, jasmine, juniper, neroli, nutmeg, rose, rosemary, sandalwood, vetiver, ylang ylang

Black Pepper is spicy and sharpens the scent. it is stimulating and an aphrodisiac. Use it as an accessory note and in small amounts. A

Bay laurel, bergamot, carrot seed, citrus, cinnamon, clary sage, clove, coriander, frankincense, fennel, geranium, ginger, jasmine, juniper, lavender, lemon, myrrh, orange, rose, rosemary, sandalwood, spices, vetiver, ylang ylang

Bois de Rose (Rosewood) is woody, floral and very likeable. It is a controversial essential due to the cutting down of these trees in rain forest and deforestation. Try using rose geranium and palmarosa as an alternative.

Everything, geranium, sandalwood, vetiver, frankincense

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TOP NOTES Blends well with

Carrot seed is earthy, sharp, warm and sweet.

Cassia, citrus, cedarwood, geranium, helichrysum, lavender, rock rose, sweet orange

Cedarwood, Virginia is from pencils. It is dry, light, woody and calming.

Most everything, lavender, sweet orange

Clove is very strong. It comes from the buds. Clove is fresh, fruity, spicy and warm, in oriental blends. Use clove as an accessory note. A

Bergamot, cinnamon bark, citrus, clary sage, sweet florals, lavandin, lavender, lemon, rose, vanilla, ylang ylang

Eucalyptus is a stimulant. Cedarwood, lavandin, lavender, lemon, pine, rosemary, thyme

Fennel is a stimulant. Geranium, lavandin, lavender, rose, sandalwood

Fir Needle smells like a Christmas tree.

Citrus, lavandin, lavender, lemon, pine, rosemary

Ginger is warming, exotic, spicy, calming, relaxing, balancing and stimulating. Use it lightly. Fresh ginger smells best especially sourced from Indonesia. Other ginger smell dusty and like dirty socks since they are made from the dried root.

Black pepper, cardamom, cedarwood, citrus, clove, coriander, frankincense, helichrysum, lavender, lime, neroli, sweet orange, palmarosa, patchouli, rose, rosewood, sandalwood, vetiver

Grapefruit, Pink is fresh, uplifting and energizing with a citrus scent.

Bergamot, cardamom, cedarwood, citrus, coriander, cypress, geranium, lavender, lemon, needle oils, neroli, sweet orange, palmarosa, rosemary, ylang ylang


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Lemon is fresh, citrusy, sweet. It uplifts, relaxes and balances.

Basil, chamomile, citrus, florals, eucalyptus, fennel frankincense, geranium, ginger, juniper, lavandin, lavender, MQV, needle oils, oak moss, ylang ylang, sandalwood

Lime has higher odor intensity over sweet and bitter orange. Use it to finish off a blend when it is too sweet. It is energizing and uplifting. S

Citrus, citronella, clary sage, jasmine, lavandin, lavender, neroli, nutmeg, neroli, rosemary, ylang ylang

Orange, Blood is rich, fruity and strawberry-like with raspberry overtones.

Most everything, citrus (lemon, mandarin), Roman chamomile, clary sage, cinnamon, clove, fir, frankincense, lavender, myrrh, neroli, pine, spices

Orange, Bitter is fresh, bitter and sweet with a floral undertone.

Most everything

Orange, Sweet is refreshing and uplifting.

Most everything, bay laurel, cinnamon, citrus, lemon, mandarin, Roman chamomile, clary sage, cinnamon, clove, fir, frankincense, lavender, myrrh, neroli, pine, spices


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Palmarosa is sweet and floral. It calms, balances and relaxes.

Bay laurel, bergamot, cedarwood, citrus, clove, florals, geranium, oakmoss, jasmine, neroli, rose, rosewood, sandalwood, ylang ylang

Peppermint has a menthol scent. It is refreshing, cooling, stimulating and invigorating. (chocolate peppermint is nice)

Basil, Roman chamomile, eucalyptus, lavender, lemon, marjoram, rosemary, sweet orange, rosemary, spearmint

Petitgrain is fresh, woody and citrus. It is an aphrodisia, calming, refreshing and uplifting. It is distilled from the twigs and leaves of the bitter orange tree. Use lightly.

Bergamot, citrus, clary sage, clove, geranium, jasmine, lavender, needle, neroli, oakmoss, orange flower absolute, sweet orange, palmarosa, rosemary, rosewood, sandalwood, ylang ylang

Rosewood is balancing and relaxing. Citrus, florals, woods

Sage is stimulating. Bergamot, citronella, eucalyptus, grapefruit, lavandin, lavender, sweet orange, peppermint, rosemary

Spearmint is stimulating. Basil, eucalyptus, jasmine, lavandin, lavender, rosemary

Tangerine is balancing and relaxing. Cinnamon, citrus, clove


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Tarragon smells similar to anis hyssop. It is soft and sophisticated.

Roman Chamomile, clary sage, lime, mandarin, peppermint, petitgrain

Tea Tree is stimulating. Clary sage, clove, geranium,

lavandin, lavender, oakmoss, pine, rosemary

Thyme linalool has a soft herbaceous scent. Thyme geraniol is fruity and spicy.

Bergamot, clary sage, Roman chamomile, eucalyptus, geranium, lavandin, lavender, lemon, palmarosa, petitgrain, pine, rosemary, tea tree, ylang ylang

Yuzu, Japanese is citrusy. It is a citrus fruit between a grapefruit and a mandarin with a tart flavor. It has longer staying power in blends. It is uplifting and promotes a sense of joy.

Grapefruit, tangerine, orange, mandarin


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TOP NOTES (Add your top notes here)

Blends well with


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MIDDLE NOTES Middle notes are also called heart notes. Middle notes are the second scent you smell after the top notes. They bring out the best in the other notes. They give body, warmth and fullness to blends. Middle notes are heady, dramatic and sweet. Middle notes dissipate within 2 hours. Many middle notes are essential oils and include mostly all the flowers. The smells are warmer and more voluptuous. Middle notes also come in absolutes and concretes. Label with a red round sticker.

Properties Blends well with Bay Laurel leaf is fresh and spicy. It comes from the bay tree.

Benzoin, cardamom, cinnamon, citrus, clary sage, clove bud, citrus, coriander, cypress, eucalyptus, frankincense, geranium, ginger, juniper, lavandin, lavender, litsea cubeba sweet orange, peppermint, pine, rosemary, rosemary verbenone, ylang ylang

Cassia is stimulating. Cinnamon, clary sage, clove, sweet orange, rose, tangerine, vetiver, ylang ylang

Cedarwood Virginia and Texas is woody. It promotes balance and relaxation. Smells like pencil.

Bergamot, cassia, clary sage, cypress, rosewood, spruce, vetiver, ylang ylang

Chamomile, German is herbaceous and strong. It is soothing and warm.

Roman chamomile, helichrysum, lavender

Chamomile, Roman is fruity with an apple-like scent. It is relaxing and calming.

Bergamot, German chamomile, clary sage, geranium, helichrysum, jasmine, lavender, lavandin, lavender, lemon, neroli, oakmoss, rose, ylang ylang


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MIDDLE NOTES Blends well with

Cinnamon Leaf is warm, spicy and sweet. It can come from the leaves, bark and root. It is very strong and powerful. Think before you use it and use in small amounts. A

Citrus, clove, frankincense, lemon, rose, sweet orange, pine, ylang ylang, spices

Clary Sage is sweet, earthy, herbaceous, warm and balsamic. It is very sophisticated with a complicated smell. It comes from the green parts of the plant and the flowering tops. It is calming, balancing and mellows perfume.

Bergamot, chamomile, cedarwood, citrus, coriander, cardamom, frankincense, geranium, jasmine, juniper, labdanum, lavandin, lavender, oakmoss, sweet orange, pine, rose, rosewood, sandalwood, vetiver

Cocoa is sweet and chocolate. S Citrus

Coffee adds a dirty element. Citrus

Cypress is pungent and fresh. It promotes balance and relaxation.

Bergamot, cedarwood, chamomile, clary sage, lavandin, lavender, lemon, helichrysum, sweet orange, pine, sandalwood

Jasmine Grandiflorum Absolute is an aphrodisiac, sweeter than Jasmine sambuc. It is rich, heavy, warm and fruity. Jasmine Sambuc Absolute is an aphrodisiac, spicier than grandiflorum, intense, soothing and calming. S

Everything, angelica, bergamot, florals, citrus (lime, blood orange), clary sage, rose, sandalwood, ylang ylang

Juniper Berry is an aphrodisiac and stimulant.

Cedarwood, clary sage, cypress, fir needle, geranium, lavandin, lavender, oakmoss, pine, rosemary, sandalwood, vetiver


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MIDDLE NOTES Blends well with

Lavandin promotes balance and relaxation.

Bay, bergamot, cinnamon, citronella, citrus, clary sage, clove, cypress, geranium, lavender, sweet orange, pine, rosemary, thyme

Lavender is herbaceous, sweet and floral.

Everything, citrus, florals

Lemongrass is citrus-like, lemony and herbaceous. It is stimulating, balancing and relaxing.

Basil, cypress, cedarwood, citronella, clary sage, lavandin, lavender, lemon, sweet orange, palmarosa, black pepper, tangerine, sandalwood, vetiver, ylang ylang

Litsea Cubeba is fresh and lemony. Use in place of lemon and lemon verbena. It is energizing and uplifting.

Basil, bay laurel, citronella, citrus, clary sage, black pepper, lavandin, lavender, sweet orange, palmarosa, petitgrain, rosemary, sandalwood, tangerine, vetiver, ylang ylang

Mandarin is fruity and sweet. It is calming.

Roman Chamomile, citrus (orange), clary sage, frankincense, lavender, lavandin, lemon, neroli, spices, ylang ylang

Neroli is sweet and floral. It is the flower from the bitter orange tree. It is soothing, uplifting and balancing.

Roman Chamomile, bergamot, citrus, clary sage, coriander, florals, frankincense, geranium, helichrysim, jasmine, lavender, myrrh, rock rose, rose, ylang ylang

Nutmeg Absolute is woody and soft. It is full-bodied but not sharp.

Cardamom, MQV, neroli, jasmine, ravinsara, rose, spices


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Orange Blossom Absolute is a rich beautiful floral scent.

Everything, Roman chamomile, bergamot, citrus, clary sage, coriander, florals, frankincense, geranium, helichrysim, jasmine, lavender, myrrh, rock rose, rose, ylang ylang

Rose Absolute is sweet and floral. It is from the rose petals.

Citrus, cedarwood, Roman chamomile, clove bud, frankincense, jasmine, lavender, lemongrass, mandarin, myrrh, neroli, nutmeg, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, ylang ylang

Rose Otto is sweet and floral. It is soothing.

Citrus, cedarwood, Roman chamomile, clove bud, frankincense, jasmine, lavender, lemongrass, mandarin, myrrh, neroli, nutmeg, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, ylang ylang

Rose Geranium is floral, fresh lemon, minty, rosy and sweet. It is an aphrodisia, balancing and stimulant.

Bergamot, citrus, clary sage, clove, jasmine, juniper, lime, lavandin, lavender, neroli, orange, rose, patchouli, sandalwood

Rosemary is spicy and herbaceous. It is stimulating.

Basil, bergamot, cedarwood, cinnamon, citronella, coriander, elemi, eucalyptus radiata and globulus, frankincense, inula, lavandin, lavender, MQV, peppermint, petitgrain, pine, thyme geraniol, thyme linalool

Violet Leaf Absolute is green, grassy, earthy, woody and intriguing.

Lavender, rose, ylang ylang, cedarwood, sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla bean

Ylang Ylang is sweet and floral. It is considered the poor man’s jasmine. It is balancing and relaxing.

Bergamot, cassia, citrus, frankincense, florals, geranium, jasmine, lavender, myrrh, rose, rosewood, sage, vetiver


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MIDDLE NOTES (Add your middle notes here)

Blends well with


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BASE NOTES Scents last a longer time when base notes are used. Base notes are intense and evolve over hours and even days. Base notes are dark, thick, syrupy, resins, saps, bark and smell heavier and fuller. Usually base notes are absolutes or concretes. Label with a green round sticker.

Properties Blends well with Amber is made from benzoin, vanilla and labdanum. It is used as a base in oriental perfumes.

Citrus, spices

Ambrette Absolute is soft and warm and has a musky animalistic scent. It is a replacement for animal musk.

Bergamot, cedarwood, clary sage, frankincense, geranium, lavender, neroli, rose, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla

Benzoin is soft, sweet, warm, powdery and a vanilla scent. It is used in oriental scents and a great fixative. Caution: It can cause skin sensitivity, use at a low dose. A

Bergamot, citrus (orange), florals, jasmine, lavender, spices

Choya Absolute adds a smoky scent. A

Citrus, pine, firs

Frankincense is a soft resinous scent. It comes from the bark of the Boswella genus. It is a fixative for spicy, exotic and flowery scents. It is an aphrodisia and stimulant. Frankincense from Kenya is nice.

Basil, bergamot, cedarwood, cinnamon, citrus, clove, floral, geranium, lavender, myrrh, neroli, sweet orange, black pepper, pine, rose, rock rose, sandalwood spices, vetiver

Labdanum Absolute is sweet, herbaceous and balsamic. It comes from the rock rose plant. It is a fixative. It is comforting and centering. Cistus is the essential oil. Labdanum is the main ingredient in amber. S

Clary sage, citrus (bergamot), lavender, oakmoss, opoponax

Lavender, Concrete is soft, rich, flowery with a beautiful scent.

Citrus, florals, lavender, spices, rose

Myrrh is stimulating. Cypress, frankincense, geranium, juniper, oakmoss, patchouli, peppermint, pine, sandalwood, spearmint, thyme


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BASE NOTES Blends well with

Oakmoss Absolute is earthy, woody and smells like a wet forest. The lichen grows on oak trees, bark and wood. It is a great fixative. Use caution when using too much as it can ruin a perfume. S

Clary sage, lavender, lemon, neroli, palmarosa, patchouli, petitgrain, rose, sandalwood

Spruce is balancing and relaxing. Cedarwood, lavandin, lavender, oakmoss, pine, rosemary

Patchouli is sweet, rich, herbaceous, earthy, dry, woody and when aged has a fruity scent. Rose extends and fixes its sweetness. It comes from the stems and leaves of the pogostemon plant. It is an aphrodisia and stimulant. S

Angelica, bergamot, cedarwood, cassia, clary sage, clove, florals, geranium, labdanum, lavender, neroli, oakmoss, orange, rose, sandalwood, vetiver

Peru Balsam is warm with a vanilla and cookie scent. It is from an incision in the tree.

Labdanum, petitgrain, patchouli, sandalwood, tuberose, ylang ylang

Sandalwood is exotic, soft, woody and sweet. It is an excellent fixative and supports the less intense middle notes. It comes from Mysore, East India but it is becoming extinct and many do not use this type. The Australian Sandalwood can be used in its place.

Everything, bergamot, black pepper, clove, fennel, florals, jasmine, lavender, mimosa, oakmoss, orange, patchouli, rose, vetiver


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BASE NOTES Blends well with

Tobacco, Blond Absolute is smoky and has high odor intensity. It helps to balance the sweetness of florals.

Bergamot, cedarwood, clary sage, labdanum, sandalwood, vetiver

Vanilla Absolute or CO2 has a warm and familiar scent. It is an excellent fixative.

Everything, clove, lime, neroli, rose, sandalwood, vetiver, ylang ylang

Vetiver is warm, sweet and earthy. It is very heavy. It is an excellent fixative that is long lasting. It is grounding, strengthening, relaxing and balancing. It comes from the roots of grass.

Bergamot, cassia, clary sage, green and herbal scents, jasmine, lavender, mandarin, mimosa, oakmoss, orange, patchouli, rose, rosewood, sandalwood, violet, ylang ylang


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BASE NOTES (Add your base notes here)

Blends well with

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PERFUME OIL Perfume oil is easy to make and use. Use liquid plant oil that does not have a strong scent. Jojoba, safflower or sunflower oil work well. Safflower oil does not have a long shelf life. I prefer jojoba or sunflower oil or a mixture of the two. These are blending guidelines only. Trust your creative expression.

General Methods Formulating Perfume Oil The scent blend will evolve over time. Smell the perfume every few days and note any changes, likes or dislikes. Keep a detailed record while making the perfume is key to perfume making.

3, 2, 1 Method 3 top notes, 2 middle notes, 1 base note example: 9 top notes, 6 middle notes, 3 base notes in 5 ml perfume

or

Equal Parts Method (used by perfumers) Use equal drops of top, middle and base notes example: 7 top note, 7 middle note, 7 base note in 5 ml perfume

PROCEDURE PERFUME OIL 5ML 1. Measure 5 ml (1/2 teaspoon) of jojoba oil into the container.

2. Add 20 drops essential oil into container using one of the above methods, smelling after each addition and taking notes on how the scent changes.

3. Optional: Add 1 drop accessory note into the container.

4. Mix well, try the scent and make adjustments to the scent.

5. Pour into container, place the cap on the bottle and gently mix by rolling the bottle in your palms.

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Simple Floral and Citrus Perfume Oil

5 ml (1/2 teaspoon) jojoba oil 8 drops blood orange

5 drops ylang ylang 6 drops vanilla resin/extract 1 drop black pepper

Aromatherapy Roll-On 30 ml or 1 ounce jojoba oil 20 drops blood orange 12 drops rose geranium 4 drops ylang ylang 4 drops Vanilla CO2

Heart Chakra Roll-On 10 ml jojoba oil 12 drops bergamot FCF 8 drops lemon 4 drops palmarosa 8 drops rose geranium 4 drops lavender 4 drops sandalwood

Travel Oil Travel oils are great to use for the car, train or airplane ride or while traveling. Make a roll-on oil with peppermint essential oil to refresh and cool yourself. Roll the oil onto the neck and pulse points.

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PERFUME OIL BLENDING SHEET

Perfume Name Date

Top Notes Middle Notes

Base Note

Type Oil Amount

Notes

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SOLID PERFUME Solid perfumes are made with liquid plant oil, wax and essential oils. Solid perfumes can use middle and base notes only. More top notes can be used as the jojoba and wax holds the top notes down. These are guidelines only. Trust your creative expression.

General Methods Formulating Solid Perfume 3, 2, 1 Method 3 top notes, 2 middle notes, 1 base note example: 9 top notes, 6 middle notes, 3 base notes in 5 ml perfume

or

8 top notes, 6 middle notes, 6 base notes (used by perfumers) 8 top notes, 6 middle notes, 6 base notes and 1 accessory note (optional) in 5 ml perfume (used by perfumers)

SOLID PERFUME 5 ML Liquid Oil: 5 ml (½ teaspoon) jojoba oil Essential Oils: 20-24 drops essential oils Accessory Note: 1drop Candelilla Wax: ¼ teaspoon

PROCEDURE SOLID PERFUME 5 ml 1. Add ½ teaspoon (5 ml) jojoba oil to a small glass container.

2. Add 20-24 drops of essential oils into jojoba oil. Smell after each addition.

3. Add ¼ teaspoon candelilla wax into oils. (if possible, melt candelilla wax first and then pour jojoba oil with essential oils into it and reheat for 1-2 seconds)

4. Melt candelilla making sure the mixture is transparent and all candelilla is melted.

5. Pour immediately into container. Do not disturb container until it is solid.

Simple Citrus and Floral Solid Perfume 5ml 5 ml (½ teaspoon) jojoba oil 8 drops blood orange 5 drops ylang ylang 6 drops vanilla resin/extract 1 drop black pepper ¼ teaspoon candelilla wax

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SOLID PERFUME 2.5 ML Liquid Oil: 2.5 ml (¼ teaspoon) jojoba oil Essential Oils: 10-12 drops Accessory Note: 1drop Candelilla Wax: 1/8 teaspoon candelilla wax

How to Make Solid Perfume 2.5 ml 1. Add ¼ teaspoon (2.5 ml) jojoba oil into a small perfume container.

2. Add 10-12 drops of essential oil. Mix and smell after each addition.

3. Add 1/8 teaspoon candelilla wax into oils.

4. Melt candelilla making sure the mixture is transparent and all candelilla is melted.

5. Pour immediately into container. Do not disturb container until it is solid.

Simple Citrus and Floral Solid Perfume 2.5 ml 2.5 ml (¼ teaspoon) jojoba oil 4 drops blood orange 3 drops ylang ylang 3 drops vanilla resin/extract ½ drop black pepper 1/8 teaspoon candelilla wax

Jasmine and Vanilla Solid Perfume 2.5 ml 2.5 ml (¼ teaspoon) jojoba oil 1/8 teaspoon jasmine grandiflorum wax 1/8 teaspoon candelilla wax 4 drops bitter orange 4 drops bergamot 1 drop jasmine grandiflorum 1 drop vanilla CO2

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Jasmine Orange Blossom Solid Perfume formulated by perfumer Laurie Stern Velvet and Sweet Pea Purrfumery www.purrfumery.com

5 ml jojoba oil infused with vanilla bean

4 drops sandalwood (Australia) (or any other sandalwood) 2 drops frankincense (Oman) 3 drops neroli (Italy) 4 drops orange blossom Absolute, (France) 1 drop jasmine grandiflorum (India) (Laurie prefers concrete best-use tiny amount) 8 drops blood orange (Italy)

Candelilla wax heaping ¼ teaspoon Orange wax approximately 1/8 teaspoon Add up to 8 drops top notes of your choice

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SOLID PERFUME BLENDING WORKSHEET

Perfume Name Date


Base Notes

Type Wax Amount

Type Oil Amount

Notes

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ALCOHOL PERFUME Alcohol perfume lifts top notes. It must contain top, middle and base notes. Here is a guideline to get you started. It is just a guideline and the suggested amount of essential oil for top, middle and base can be changed. Trust your sense as you build your perfume.

General Methods Formulating Alcohol Perfume 3, 2, 1 Method 3 top notes, 2 middle notes, 1 base note example: 9 top notes, 6 middle notes, 3 base notes in 5 ml perfume

or

Equal Parts Method (used by perfumers) Use equal drops of top, middle and base notes

ALCOHOL PERFUME 10 ML 190 or 200 proof Alcohol: 10 ml Essential Oils: 30-60 drops (up to 120 drops for a strong perfume) Accessory Note: 1 drop

PROCEDURE ALCOHOL PERFUME 1. Add 10 ml 190 or 200 proof alcohol into container.

2. Add essential oils into container. Smell after each addition of essential oil and take excellent notes with the number of drops and description of scents.

3. Place the cap on the bottle and gently mix by rolling bottle in your palms.

Simple Citrus and Floral Alcohol Perfume 10 ml 10 ml 190 or 200 proof alcohol 10 drops blood orange 10 drops ylang ylang 10 drops vanilla resin/extract 1 drop black pepper


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ALCOHOL PERFUME 15 ML 190 or 200 proof Alcohol: 15 ml Essential Oils: 42-45 drops (up to 180 drops for a strong perfume) Accessory Note: 1- 2 drops

How To Make Alcohol Perfume 1. Add 15 ml 190 or 200 proof alcohol into container.

2. Add essential oils into container. Smell after each addition of essential oil and take excellent notes with the number of drops and description of scents.

3. Place the cap on the bottle and gently mix by rolling bottle in your palms.

Simple Citrus and Floral Alcohol Perfume 15 ml

15 ml 190 or 200 proof alcohol 15 drops blood orange 15 drops ylang ylang 15 drops vanilla resin/extract 1 drop black pepper



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SCENT STATION General Scenting Guidelines 20 ounces product: add up to 200 drops or 2 teaspoons 500 grams product: add up to 160 drops or 1½ teaspoons plus 10 drops Refer to the essential oil usage chart

Note on Food Flavor Glycerin or Oils Food flavors add more glycerin or oil to your formulation. If you do not want more glycerin or oil added, use less glycerin or oil in the formula to account for the additional glycerin or oil added from the food flavor.

Adjust these scents to your liking.

1. Fresh Peach

20 ounces product add 2 teaspoons peach food flavor oil 500 grams product add 1½ teaspoons peach food flavor oil

-try adding some sweet orange essential oil

2. Pink Grapefruit and Rose Geranium 20 ounces product add up to 1 teaspoon grapefruit essential oil and 1 teaspoon rose geranium essential oil 500 grams product add up to ¾ teaspoon grapefruit essential oil and ¾ teaspoon rose geranium essential oil

3. Citrus Mint 20 ounces product add up to 12 drops peppermint essential oil and 1¾ plus 12 drops sweet orange essential oil 500 grams product add up to 8 drops peppermint essential oil and 1½ teaspoons sweet orange essential oil

4. Classic Spice make this blend and then use it to scent the formulation 1 teaspoon bergamot essential oil ½ teaspoon lavender essential oil

¼ teaspoon plus 13 drops rose geranium essential oil 12 drops clove essential oil 6 drops patchouli essential oil

20 ounces product add up to 2 teaspoons 500 grams product add up to 1½ teaspoons plus 10 drops

5. Baby Chamomile and Lavender 20 ounces product add up to 1 teaspoon lavender essential oil and 5 drops Roman chamomile essential oil 500 grams product add up to ¾ teaspoons lavender essential oil and 3 drops Roman chamomile essential oil



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6. Strawberry Guava 20 ounces product add 1½ teaspoons strawberry food flavor oil and ½ teaspoon guava food flavor oil 500 grams product add 1¼ teaspoon strawberry food flavor oil and ¼ teaspoon guava food flavor oil

7. Coconut and Vanilla vanilla oil will color the formulation a slight cream/yellow color 20 ounces product add 1 teaspoon coconut food flavor oil and 1 teaspoon vanilla food flavor oil 500 grams product add ¾ teaspoon coconut food flavor oil and ¾ teaspoon vanilla food flavor oil

8. Lime and Coconut 20 ounces product add up to 1 teaspoon distilled lime essential oil and 1¾ teaspoons coconut food flavor oil 500 grams product add 1 teaspoon distilled lime essential oil and ¾ teaspoons coconut food flavor oil

9. Lavender and Rose Geranium 20 ounces product add up to 1½ teaspoons lavandin or lavender essential oil and ½ teaspoon rose geranium essential oil 500 grams product add up to 1 teaspoon lavandin or lavender essential oil and ¼ rose geranium essential oil

10. Hibiscus and Vanilla vanilla oil will color the formulation a slight cream/yellow color 20 ounces product add ¾ teaspoon hibiscus food flavor oil and 1½ teaspoons vanilla food flavor oil 500 grams product add ½ teaspoon hibiscus food flavor oil 1 teaspoon vanilla food flavor oil

11. Calming use this blend for evening use products 20 ounces product add up to 1½ teaspoon sweet orange essential oil and 15 drops ylang ylang essential oil 500 grams product add up to 1 teaspoon sweet orange essential oil and 10 drops ylang ylang essential oil

12. Refreshing use this blend for morning use products 20 ounces product add up to 1 teaspoon eucalyptus radiata essential oil and ¼ teaspoon litsea cubeba or lemon essential oil 500 grams product add up to ¾ teaspoon eucalyptus radiata essential oil and 18 drops litsea cubeba or lemon essential oil



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ESSENTIAL OIL BLENDS All is Well Blend

4 drops petitgrain 4 drops rosemary verbenone 4 drops clary sage

4 drops neroli 2 drops frankincense

Bergamot and Lavender 6 drops bergamot FCF 6 drops lavender

Bergamot, Cypress, Lavender 5 drops bergamot FCF 2 drops cypress 1 drop lavender

Bergamot and Rose Geranium ¼ teaspoon bergamot ½ teaspoon rose geranium

Blood Orange Vanilla 2 drops neroli 9 drops blood orange 1 drop vanilla CO2

Cape Chamomile and Rose Geranium

1 drop cape chamomile 3 drops rose geranium

Chamomile and Lavandin 6 drops Roman chamomile ¾ teaspoon lavandin

Carrot Seed and Bergamot 3 drops bergamot FCF 1 drop carrot seed

Clarity 6 drops lavender 3 drops peppermint



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Citrus and Peppermint 12 drops sweet orange 1 drop peppermint

Clear Skin 2 drops bergamot FCF 1 drop rose geranium

Comfort & Calm 12 drops sweet orange

5 drops lavender 2 drops geranium 1 drop vanilla CO2

I Am Nurtured 5 drops lavender 5 drops geranium 3 drops frankincense 2 drops sandalwood 3 drops orange 2 drops petitgrain ½ drop vetiver

Jasmine Blood Orange 1 drop jasmine 6 drops blood orange 1 drop vanilla CO2

Jasmine Lime 4 drops lime 2 drop jasmine 1 drop vanilla CO2

Jasmine Neroli 3 drops neroli 3 drops jasmine 18 drops blood orange 4 drops lime distilled 3 drops vanilla CO2

Jasmine Sambuc, Ylang Ylang and Vanilla 1 drop jasmine sambuc 1 drop ylang ylang 1 drop vanilla CO2 2 drops bergamot



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Jasmine Sandalwood 4 drops lime 4 drops blood orange 1 drop jasmine 2 drops sandalwood

Lavender (French) and Chamomile 10 drops lavender (France) 1 drop Roman chamomile

Lavender and Vanilla CO2 4 drops lavender 8 drops sweet orange 1 drop vanilla CO2

Lavender and Rose Geranium 11 drops lavender 5 drops rose geranium

Litsea Cubeba and Eucalyptus 4 drops eucalyptus radiata 4 drops litsea cubeba 4 drops rosemary 2 drops patchouli

Litsea Cubeba and Lemongrass

2 drops litsea cubeba 1 drop lavender 1 drop lemongrass 3 drops sage petite feulles

Memory Enhancer 5 drops lemon 3 drops basil 2 drops rosemary verbenone



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Morning Blend 5 drops lavender 5 drops geranium

3 drops frankincense 3 drops sweet orange

2 drops sandalwood 1 drop vetiver

Neroli and Lavandin 4 drops lavandin grosso 1 drop clary sage 10 drops neroli (diluted 1:10 in alcohol)

Neroli and Blood Orange 5 drops blood orange 4 drops bergamot FCF 4 drops neroli in alcohol (diluted 1:10 in alcohol)

Nerves Blend 1 teaspoon lavender ¼ teaspoon Roman chamomile or cape chamomile

Night Time Blend 3 drops lavender 2 drops grapefruit 1 drop marjoram 1 drop cypress

Pain Blend ¾ teaspoon rosemary or marjoram ¼ teaspoon peppermint 1 teaspoon lavender

Peaceful Sleep 6 drops lavender 4 drops marjoram 4 drops lime 4 drops mandarin

Peaceful & Restful Sleep 7 drops lavender 4 drops sweet orange 2 drops marjoram

Peppermint and Rose Geranium 3 drops peppermint 2 drops lavender 2 drops rose geranium



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Radiation Soother apply a balm with this blend a few hours after radiation 6 drops spike lavender 12 drops niaouli MQV

Rapid Heal for bruises, strains, sprains, sore muscles 10 drops lavender 8 drops rosemary 3 drops peppermint 1 drop Roman chamomile

Relaxation 18 drops lavender 14 drops sweet orange

Renewal and Repair for after surgery and injuries 9 drops basil 9 drops sweet marjoram 9 drops rosemary

Rose Geranium and Sweet Orange 9 drops rose geranium 5 drops sweet orange

Rose Geranium and Ylang Ylang

20 drops rose geranium 4 drops ylang ylang extra

Rosemary and Sandalwood 2 drops rosemary 2 drops sandalwood 3 drops lavender

Sensuous Massage Blend 6 drops blood orange 6 drops bergamot 1 drop palmarosa 1 drop rose geranium

1 drop ylang ylang 1 drop jasmine sambuc or grandiflorum 1 drop sandalwood

1 drop black pepper



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Settle Down 20 drops lavender 10 drops grapefruit 5 drops Roman chamomile 5 drops ylang ylang

Sore Muscle 5 drops bergamot FCF 6 drops sweet orange 2 drops helichrysum 2 drops lavender

Spearmint and Eucalyptus 2 drops spearmint 3 drops eucalyptus

Strong Back Blend 10 drops lavender 6 drops rosemary 6 drops sandalwood 2 drops petitgrain 1 drop geranium

Support at my Job 4 drops lavender 2 drops lemon 1 drop geranium 1 drop bergamot

Sweet Orange and Sandalwood 6 drops sweet orange

3 drops lavender 3 drops rose geranium 1 drop ylang ylang

2 drops Australian sandalwood

Vibrant Mind 5 drops lemon 2 drops spearmint 1 drop peppermint 1 drop rosemary 1 drop black pepper


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Blends for Skin Types Most Skin 4 drops bergamot FCF 1 drop rose geranium 2 drops cypress 1 drop sandalwood

Sensitive Skin #1 2 drops neroli in 10% dilution 2 drops rose in 10% dilution 1 drop German chamomile in 10% dilution

Normal & Dry Skin 2 drops neroli in 10% dilution 3 drops rose geranium 1 drop sandalwood

Sensitive Skin #2 1 drop jasmine in 10% dilution 8 drops lavender 2 drops Roman chamomile in 10% dilution

Oily Skin 4 drops lavender 1 drop rosemary verbenone

Royalty 1/4 tsp rosehip seed oil 4 drops carrot seed 3 drops clary sage 1 drop rose otto 2 drops frankincense

Mature Skin 2 drops rose otto in 10% dilution 2 drops clary sage 2 drops jasmine in 10% dilution 2 drops frankincense


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GLOSSARY

260

Antioxidants protect cellular structures against damage from free radicals and help to slow down the aging process.

Anti-inflammatory reduces inflammation and supports the slow process of aging and promotes health.

Diluent is the diluting agent.

Emollient is a skin-conditioning agent that helps maintain the smooth, soft appearance of skin. Emollients help to prevent water loss and protect the skin.

Essential Fatty Acids/EFA’S are necessary for vital skin and body health, they help to nourish and heal skin. They are supplied only from food sources, as the body does not produce them. EFA’s moisturize and promote soft and healthy skin. EFA’s are the Omega’s: 3-ALA (alpha linolenic acid), EPA (eicosopentaenoic acid), DHA (docosahexaeonoic acid), 6 GLA (gamma linolenic acid).

GRAS Generally Recognized As Safe

Humectants are ingredients that attract and hold moisture to the skin, preventing water loss and drying of the skin. They help to keep skin moist and supple.

Moisturizers are ingredients that raise the moisture content of the skin.

Occlusive is an ingredient that creates a protective barrier on the skin.

Phytosterols are parts of the plant cell membranes that promote restoration and regeneration of the skin.

Phytonutrients are nutrients that come from plants.

Raw Materials are ingredients.

Vessel is the container.

Vitamin A is the skin vitamin necessary for skin health.

Vitamin C is an antioxidant and regenerates the skin and helps to boost collagen.


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Weight and Measurement Conversion Chart

261

drops tsp. tbsp. ounce cup pint quart gal dram ml gram liter

.0353 1 10 1/10 1/60 1/8 0.5 12 1/8 1/48 1/6 5/8 20 1 0.945

1.05 1.0 25 1/4 1/24 1/3 1.25 50 1/2 1/12 2/3 2.5 100 1 1/6 1

1/3 5

150 1 ½ ½ 1/4 2 7.5 200 2 1/3 10 300 3 1 1/2 4 15 15 600 6 2 1 1/8 8 30 28.35 1200 12 4 2 1/4 60

3.5 100 2400 24 8 4 1/2 118 115

48 16 8 1 ½ 230 225 96 32 16 2 1 480 453.59 32 4 2 1 960 .94635 33.814 1.0567 1 64 8 1/2 2000 128 16 4 1 4000 3.7854 8 2

Measurements by Weight Dry Measurement

ounce gram lb .0353 1 ¼ 7.1 ½ 14.2 1 28.35

3.527 100 4 113.4 8 226.8

16 453.6 1

Abbreviations tsp. = teaspoon tbsp. = tablespoon oz. = ounce

ounce pint quart gal pound 2 1 8 4 1 16 8 2

16 1 32 2


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ABOUT JOAN MORAIS

Joan Morais is a green cosmetic formulator and instructor experienced in cutting edge and innovative formulations. Clean beauty; organic, natural, sustainable, plant=based and cruelty-free. Joan Morais Cosmetics School teaches courses on making natural and organic products for hair and skin and creating a clean beauty line. Joan has assisted thousands in learning the art and science of formulating and making natural cosmetics. She has taught at top spas and companies. Joan teaches and consults with people worldwide. Joan is a certified aromatherapist and herbalist.

Joan Morais’ formulas contain high quality plant-based, vegan ingredients; natural, organic and wild crafted herbs, botanical extracts, pure plant butters, vegetable oils and essential oils. The results are effective natural cosmetics that promote nourished, radiant skin and hair and are friendly to people, animals and the earth.

©2016-2020 joan morais 10 skin 101 it is important as a formulator and maker of skin care products...

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